To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #786


oldsmobile-digest      Wednesday, August 6 1997      Volume 01 : Number 786



Re: Cooked Compressor...
Who are you?  What are you doing on this list?
CD-Rom Spamming
Re: Is this dealer still open
Re: Goodbye (sniffle)
Re: Goodbye (sniffle)
RE: Trains - Not Olds-Related
Re: J heads
Popular Mechanics Shoot-Out
Re: CD-Rom Spamming
455 oil pan
Re: Lansing list
delta 88/ auction price
70 455 burning oil
Torque/Stall converters
RE: 70 455 burning oil
Re: Torque/Stall converters
A few more questions
Re: Machine Shop Prices?
Re: Machine Shop Prices?
Re: RTV: Stumped or Stupid???
Re: f-body disc brakes on my 67 f-85
Re: Olds Humour...
RE: 70 455 burning oil
Re: 70 455 burning oil
Re: Popular Mechanics Shoot-Out
[Fwd: Re: Value of car]
[Fwd: Popular Mechanics?]
Re: Machine Shop Prices?
[Fwd: Re: Value of car]
[Fwd: Popular Mechanics?]
Re: CAR 4 SALE AND 350 QUESTION
Popular Mechanics?
[Fwd: Re: Value of car] Second request
Re: Value of car
'69 442 Axle Update
Re: [Fwd: Popular Mechanics?]
timing chain help please
Re: RTV: Stumped or Stupid???
Re: 455 oil pan
Re: Fender Bracket
Re: 403 swap
Re: 70' Rear Bumper
[none]
[none]
[none]
[none]
Re: W-machines newsletter? are you intrested?
Re: Popular Mechanics Shoot-Out
Re: Popular Mechanics?
Re: '69 442 Axle Update
1973 Olds Cutlass Supreme
test, erase
Re: super sport 1 wheels
Re: 403 swap
A/F and oil questions...
Re: CAR 4 SALE AND 350 QUESTION
Re: RTV: Stumped or Stupid???
Re: Is this dealer still open
Re: Fat H/O's
Re: 1973 Olds Cutlass Supreme
Re: A/F and oil questions...

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Aug 1997 06:41:45 -0500
From: katana72@juno.com (Rob T)
Subject: Re: Cooked Compressor...

Save some money for the future compressor change, take the belt off.
Unless the belt is just garbage. Everything should be ok for your car.
Rob
Katana72          "It's NOT yourDaddy's Oldsmobile !!!!!    Hastings, MN

On Sun, 03 Aug 1997 23:09:13 -0400 Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net> writes:
>Hi all,
>
>I ran into a problem today while I was driving it in the back-40.  The
>v-belts need replacing as it is--they squeal a little at start-up.
>Anyway, I've noticed a whine under the hood, and I finally isolated
>it...the compressor bearings.  The A/C hasn't worked for a few years,
>and I don't have the cash flow to fix it, so could I just remove the
>v-belt from it?  It wouldn't hurt anything, would it?  A new
>compressor
>would be nice, but the $$$ presents a problem.  I've got a long list
>of
>things to fix before the A/C, such as the brake system, new rubber,
>and
>a paint job.  Besides, that's one less v-belt I have to buy...
>
>Any response would be greatly appreciated!
>
>S. Dave Ward
>
>'78 Delta 88 (350 4bbl.)
>'85 Delta 88 (307 4bbl.)
>'91 GMC Sierra 4x4 (305 TBI)
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Aug 1997 07:49:20 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Who are you?  What are you doing on this list?

Alright, what's your spam scam?  I'm sorry, but unless your CD has the
addresses of every known location of Oldsmobile related parts and stuff,
you can keep it.  And take your spamming elsewhere.  This isn't a
business.  It's a hobby list.  I think I speak for all of us using the
Olds posting list that we do not particularly enjoy bombardments of
non-Olds related stuff for sale, unless you are identified as an
Oldsmobile owner yourself.

Thanks, but no thanks.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Aug 1997 07:55:14 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: CD-Rom Spamming

To the doogus@hotmail.com......(or was that "Doofus")....if you are a
user of this list, and own an Olds, please identify yourself.

Greg B., excuse me for being out of line here if I am, but I believe
we've just been spammed, and it isn't nice, so I let them know about
it.  The one thing this doofus should understand, is that they would be
messing with the wrong list if they continue......we have ways of making
them stop....heh, heh,...

To all the rest of you out there, I am CC'ing the e-mail I wrote back to
this person for all to read.  If you do not agree with my comments, then
I'm sorry if I offended anyone.  It's just that I HATE SPAMMING!

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Aug 1997 03:33:46 -0700
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Is this dealer still open

Hi Lisa,

> Didn't find this dealership name in the N. Hollywood area - but then again
> there have been cases where the dealership was sold & its under a new name.
>  Did you have any luck with the Olds History Center?  I had similar info

Can I send e-mail to someone at the Olds History Center?  If so then
how?

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 08:18:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: R4C442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Goodbye (sniffle)

Hey Jason!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 08:22:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: R4C442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Goodbye (sniffle)

Hey Jason!
    I can't understand why you need college when it's so obvious you have an
above-average intelligence as witnessed by your choice of wheels! Anyway, let
your Olds light shineth at the Gobbler place and get back with us ASAP.
                                             Ron Forsee
                                              65 442-Meister

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Aug 1997 08:42:11 -0400
From: "Williamson, Glen" <glen.williamson@cplc.com>
Subject: RE: Trains - Not Olds-Related

Found this in USA Weekend recently- rocker Neil Young is part owner of
Lionel Trains. Might be an interesting side tour dep on where they are
in MI.

>----------
>From: dk0009@epfl2.epflbalto.org[SMTP:dk0009@epfl2.epflbalto.org]
>Sent: Sunday, August 03, 1997 12:38 PM
>To: glen.williamson@cplc.com; rgbdeb@midusa.net; oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca;
>toro@armchair.mb.ca
>Subject: Trains - Not Olds-Related
>
>Folks...
>
>Just remembered that a friend of mine, O-Gauge train enthusiast, had told me
>that Lionel Trains is in MI; and that they have tours!  More on this later,
>but
>they do have an internet site at www.lionel.com
>
>Didn't have time to check it out; I'm late now to go get the convertible
>checked
>out... engine isn't running right _at all_.  More on both subjects later-
>
>Doug
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 08:50:28 -0500
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: J heads

> OK, I thought that the MT 442's got the "K" heads with the big valves,
and
> that all Toronados after 1972 used the regular-spec 455's. Anyone got an
> original MT 455-powered 442 from '73-'76 that they can look at the heads
> codes for us? And who here has torn down a '73-'76 Toro motor lately?
Having
> big-valve heads in these cars would certainly widen the candidates for
> performance buildups.
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

The info I have is

'73    J   455 4bbl. at.
'74    J   455 all w/at
'75-6 J   455 all except marine

It doesn't have a listing for K but there is a KA head

'73-4   KA   455 smt,marine,irr.
'75-6   KA   455 marine,irr.,serv.

I had a set of J's off of a '76 Delta. They had the smaller valves.

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 09:47:29 -0400
From: tgstoner@umich.edu
Subject: Popular Mechanics Shoot-Out

dgerow@stonehill.edu (Daniel R. Gerow) wrote:

 . . . Personally, I think they gave the 442 a raw deal.  Something just
didn't seem right when they said "We've seen similar  cars run in the high
13's without breathing hard..."  This one ran 1/4:  14.80 @ 97.47 mph.
Other stats for the W-30 were as follows:
     0-60 in 6.75 sec.
     60-0 @ 198 ft.  (worst braking of the day)
     slalom: 38.9 mph . . .

*************************
I agree that the quarter mile time doesn't seem right.  The '72 W-30 I was
driving back in the mid-70s always ran between 14.50 and 14.80 at Detroit
Dragway, and that was with the stock low compression engine.  A high
compression '70 would do better than that, if it were in normal good
health.  As for the braking however, didn't the '70 W-30 still have only
manual brakes?  Didn't they also have semi-metallic pads like my '72 did,
which really didn't work all that well until they had warmed a bit?  Those
items being the case, needing nearly 200 feet to stop from 60 wouldn't
surprise me.  Although with its less radical camshaft my '72 had power
assist on its heavy duty brakes, I don't believe that it stopped in much
less distance.

By the way, I have two 1972 magazines with road tests of the '72 W-30.  I'd
be happy to post the figures from those tests, if anyone is interested.

Tom Stoner
Oldsmobile Club of America ª3943
Ann Arbor, MI
tgstoner@umich.edu

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 09:48:27 -0400 (EDT)
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: CD-Rom Spamming

mike rothe; two thumbs up, tell it like it is.   can the spam!   steven.
w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 13:06:32 -0300
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: 455 oil pan

Need a clean non dented oil pan for my '69 442 conv. Anybody got one?
Coupe King @aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Aug 1997 12:16:18 -0400
From: Cliff McFarlane <mcfrlan@bconnex.net>
Subject: Re: Lansing list

Hello.

I'm just adding another person to the list!

Cliff McFarlane
62 Starfire conv
63 Starfire coupe

________________________________________________________________________
    NAME                 HOTEL               DATE           CAR
    ====                 =====               ====           ===
Adams, Tom           Kellogg Center       8/21-24   66 Delta conv
Allen, Joseph        Cottenwood CG        8/20-24   57 88 J/2 conv
Beaulieu, Greg       Hampton Inn          8/18-23   none
Bicker, Steve        Quailty Suites       8/19-24   67 442
Blankenship, Mike    Red Roof Inn         8/20-24   none
Bradley, Terry&Barb  Regent Inn           8/20-24   71 Cutlass 70 W-30
Brown, David         Best Western-Midway  8/19-24   77 Delta 88
Chermack, Jim        Marriot East         8/18-25   67 442 W-30
Cornea, Mark         Clubhouse Inn        8/19-24   70 442 W-30
Cremean, Matt        Blissfiend, MI       8/21      73 Cutlass Supreme
Culp, Bill           Park Inn Int         8/21-24   62 Jetfire
Easton, Jeff         Fairfield Okemos     8/20-22   70 442
Forsee, Ron          Hampton Inn          8/20-24   65 442
Glista, Nikki        Holiday Inn West     8/19-24   68 Cutlass conv
Glista, Richard      Holiday Inn West     8/19-24   68 442
Gulino, Dan          Sleep Inn            8/20-24   75 Delta 88 conv
Hall, Mike           Holiday Inn West     8/21-24   72 Cutlass S
Harkema, Doug        Holt, MI             all       70 Supreme conv
Hartlieb, Paul       Marriot East         8/19-23   67 98
Hendley, Daren       Ramada               8/20-24   none
Hirtle, Don          Hampton              8/18-23   none
Hoopingarner, Kevin  Cottonwood Camp      8/19-24   none
Horton, Everett      Sheraton             8/19-23   61 Starfire conv
Horton, Gordon       Sheraton             8/19-23   71 Supreme conv
Johnson, Ernie       Ramada               8/20-24   67 442
Kitchner, Doug       Holiday Inn West     8/19-24   70 Supreme conv
Kobinsky, Jeff&Patti Days Inn             8/20-22   86 98
Lamb, Aaron          Clubhouse Inn        8/20-23   72 Cutlass
Loban, John          Clubhouse Inn        8/20-24   63 Starfire conv
McFarlane, Cliff     Holiday Inn West     8/19-24   63 Starfire
Melen, Ulyess        Clubhouse Inn        8/20-23   71 Cutlass S
Nicholson, Brad      Best Western         8/19-24   94 LSS
O'Connor, Peg        Holiday Inn West     8/19-24   none
Penny, Steve         Hampton              8/18-23   none
Prince, Mark         Clubhouse Inn        8/19-24   72 442 W-30
Prince, Michael      Clubhouse Inn        8/20-23   70 Cutlass S
Pritchett, Bill      Radisson             8/20-23   61 98
Richmond, John       FairField Inn West   8/22-23   72 442
Roberts, Rick        Clubhouse Inn        8/22      72 H/O
Ruper, Chris         Best Western-Midway  8/19-24   none
Senko, Drew          Sheraton             8/20-23   71 Supreme conv
Schinkel, Rob        Red Roof Inn         8/21-22   none
Smetana, Chris       BW Govenors          8/20-24   possibly a 72 S
Smith, Brian         Hampton              8/18-23   none
Smith, Bryce         Days Inn             8/18-23   none
Soball, Dave         Motel 6 Central      8/20-24   55 98
Stewart, Sandy       Hampton              8/18-23   none
Thomas, Robert       Clubhoue Inn         8/22      69 442 W-32
Westlake, Steve      Holiday Inn West     8/19-24   63 98
Williams, Dan        Hampton Inn          8/20-24   68 442 conv
Williams, Danny      Red Roof Inn         8/20-24   none
Wilson, Jim          none                 8/19-24   64 Starfire
Wyatt, Dave          BW Govenors          8/20-24   70 442

________________________________________________________________________
LIST TOTAL = 53 People

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Aug 1997 12:54:43 -0400
From: issval@maracaibo.ipm.slb.com (ISSVAL)
Subject: delta 88/ auction price

hi everybody,

i've seen many people in the last few days asking for auction prices. so i
tink i'm gonna give it a try too.
Mike do you have anything regarding a 73 delta 88 royale convertible.
i hope i will be more lucky than walter.
in a way i fill the same about my 73: i've not read anything yet about it,
and generally not much about the year 73. what's wrong with thi year?
anyway after his remark about not too many people being interested in delta
88 (66 only or all years?) i had a quick check:

-walter ?, tom adams: 66
-lisa malden: 67
-myself: 73
-dan gulino: 75
-john shelp: 77
-s.dave ward: 78 & 85
-steve ?: 85
not to bad in the end. did i forget anybody?


apart from that, i'm trying to meet some people in miami interested in
oldsmobile. i don't remember seeing anybody with an address there. am i wrong?

that's all...

alain lachatre

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Aug 1997 12:16:48 -0500
From: Mike Schlottman <mschlott@rsn.hp.com>
Subject: 70 455 burning oil

I have a 70 442 that is burning a lot of oil.  About a quart every 300
miles.  The engine is a 455, 10.25:1 compression, w30 cam and E heads.
It smokes a little when I first start it or when I floor it from a stop.

Can someone tell me how to find out where the oil is going and what work
it will take to fix it.  This car is a nice daily driver and I want to
keep it in top shape.

Aslo I have been wondering if the last 6 digits of the VIN should match
the 6 digits in the sequence number of the body style tag.  If not what
could have happened?

mike

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Aug 1997 13:17:47 -0400
From: uknowme <uknowme@mail.botanybay.net>
Subject: Torque/Stall converters

Hi all
I've put a 3500 T/S converter in my 81 Cutlass Supreme, the engine is a
305(just rebuilt) the tranny is Th 350 the gears are stock. When  i
accelerate it seems the car is being really stressed out before it
shifts (automatic)  I'm thinking maybe the converter is too high should
i get say a 2500? What do most people have in these cars? should i get
better gears 373 I can't really punch it the engine is 2 days old,
should i wait until the engine breaks in then beat on it a couple times
before i change the converter.
THANKS
Tim
81 Cutlass Supreme (dam near ready?)
80 MusHtang (winter beater)
80 Camaro (making my Cutlass better RIP)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Aug 1997 13:51:20 -0400
From: "Wagner, John" <WagnerJo@pios.com>
Subject: RE: 70 455 burning oil

Valve guides usually cause smoking on start up, but then it clears up
unless they are REALLY bad, but then you would notice a fairly noisy
valve train. The sounds of your symptoms, sounds like an oil ring broke.
( Does it smoke pretty good when you let off the gas on the f-way??)

 Either way you A.) pull the heads and have them done, B.) re-ring it.
C.) Both.

Check the PVC and/or any other breathers you have..a blocked one could
also cause high consumption.

Good Luck..John

72 Cutlass CS 455

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 12:08:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: Torque/Stall converters

uknowme  wrote:
 Hi all
> I've put a 3500 T/S converter in my 81 Cutlass Supreme, the engine
is a
> 305(just rebuilt) the tranny is Th 350 the gears are stock. When  i
> accelerate it seems the car is being really stressed out before it
> shifts (automatic)  I'm thinking maybe the converter is too high
should
> i get say a 2500? What do most people have in these cars? should i
get
> better gears 373 I can't really punch it the engine is 2 days old,
> should i wait until the engine breaks in then beat on it a couple
times
> before i change the converter.
> THANKS
> Tim

********************
That's too much converter for a car with stock rearend gears. If you
had 3.73-3.91 gears it would work OK. Even a 2500 converter slips a
lot in my 72 W30 with 3.42 gears! With 3.73 gears there was less
slippage. I also have a 72 Cutlass with a 11" 2500 converter and 2.73
gears. It slips so much I can't wait to change to a 12" 2000 stall!

===
John Pajak
Lexington Park, Maryland

JSPajak@rocketmail.com






_____________________________________________________________________
Sent by RocketMail. Get your free e-mail at http://www.rocketmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 04 Aug 1997 08:52:39 -0500
From: "John C. Ramsey" <jramsey@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: A few more questions

Hey folks,

    This weekend I'm planning on purchasing a rebuilt 455 long block for
my '69 Cutlass (originally a 350).  I've got a few things I need to
clear up before I haul off and do it, though.

    1.)  I have a four core radiator.  Will this be enough to cool that
monster? (I've actually asked this one before but for some reason never
recieved the digest that had the replies to it!)

    2.)  I've heard that the original 350 mounts could be used.  Are
they acutally the same, or do they change the drive train geometries?

    3.)  I'm going to hold out for C Code heads, but they will not come
with rocker arms, etc.  Does anyone know a manufacturer who makes a good
roller rocker valve train for this engine?  And how much does it cost?

    4.)  My plan is to buy a junk late 70's 455 (in semi-reasonable
condition) steal it's sheet iron and intake, etc. and use it for a core.

    5.) Has anyone tried the Hooker Headers on a car like this?  I'm
going to pick up a 3" exhaust from T/A Performance, and this exhaust
setup will bolt right up to the Hookers (which are about $160 out of
PAW).

    6.)  Will the distributor from the 350 work with the 455, or do I
need to look into getting one of those, too?

    7.)  Same for the water pump...and will it pump enough to cool that
badboy?

To tell you the truth folks, I'm a bit nervous about this swap.  My
car's been down for about a month now, and I'm getting tired of the bus,
but I refuse to do a shotty job of this engine swap.  If anyone has any
other suggestions on what I could do to make this swap easier, please
let me know.  Thanks for everything.

John Ramsey
'69 Cutlass 'S' 350 (to be 455)
jramsey@mail.utexas.edu

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 12:39:50 -0500
From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Subject: Re: Machine Shop Prices?

- ----------
> From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
> To: The Oldsmobile List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Machine Shop Prices?
> Date: Monday, August 04, 1997 10:06 PM
>
>
> What's the average price of a mild valve job:
>
>    Boil heads
>    Cut seats for large valves
>    Install new valve guides
>    Assemble and set spring height
>
> Assuming I supply the heads bare, and I supply  all the new parts
> (valves, springs, keepers, ect) how much should this run?
>
> These are Olds ª7 heads.  Even though all the shops around here seem to
> only speak Brand-X, I can't belive Olds heads are that different. ;^)
>
> I'm getting prices from $375-500 for this.   Knock off $50 if I
> assemble them myself.  Sounds a little high, no?
>
>
>                      -->   Bob Valentine  <--
>                     --> ravalent@liii.com  <--
>         "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"
>
>
>I get $85 for installing bronze guides ( including parts ) $100 for
cutting for larger valves and I usually charge about $50 -$75 for the rest
of the things you mentioned. If you cut the heads for larger ex valves you
will remove the induction hardening. Maybe I need to go up
Walter

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Aug 1997 08:23:03 -0700
From: Erik Nowacki <enowacki@titan.com>
Subject: Re: Machine Shop Prices?

I recently had a set of C heads done.  The machine shop boiled them,
installed new valve seats and guides, new exhaust valves and replaced the
springs.  It set me back $350.  Hope this helps.

Erik Nowacki
72 Vista Cruiser


At 11:06 PM 8/4/97 -0400, you wrote:
>
>What's the average price of a mild valve job:
>
>   Boil heads
>   Cut seats for large valves
>   Install new valve guides
>   Assemble and set spring height
>
>Assuming I supply the heads bare, and I supply  all the new parts
>(valves, springs, keepers, ect) how much should this run?
>
>These are Olds ª7 heads.  Even though all the shops around here seem to
>only speak Brand-X, I can't belive Olds heads are that different. ;^)
>
>I'm getting prices from $375-500 for this.   Knock off $50 if I
>assemble them myself.  Sounds a little high, no?
>
>
>                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--
>                    --> ravalent@liii.com  <--
>        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 15:25:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: WKBZZZZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: RTV: Stumped or Stupid???

If you over do the rtv, in generaly will end up pluging up your oil sump
screen. Just dont over goo your parts and you'll be fine



                                          Keith Brumbley
                                          71 442 conv.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 16:31:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: f-body disc brakes on my 67 f-85

>>>>wait, your saying that i can put REAR disc brakes on my F85!!!!!
 ALLLLLLLL

 RIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIGHT!!!  thanx for the info. NOw let me ask u
something. what about the front disc, can i or cant i put them on the F85
????  Ill b getting the whole car, if you need any parts let me know.  Funny
you should mention it, the car is a 6cyl formula!!!  i live in central
jersey, union county, about 15 min south of newark airport.
 my e-mail is  RCKTPWR@AOL.COM..... thanx again 4 the REAR disc brake info.
 maybe ill save it for the day my 67 442 hits the road. I def need front disc
on my F85 though........................c-ya

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Aug 1997 13:37:34 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Olds Humour...

Dave Ward wrote:
>
> While I was sitting at a stoplight today, I saw a guy sitting in a
> Rustang convertible, and he was wearing a t-shirt that read:
>
> "If it weren't for my Olds, all my tools would be rusty!"
>
> I was less than impressed about this, and I let him know about it:  he
> started saying stuff about GMC, which I was driving, and I replied with
> some of my anti-Ford lines.  It was an interesting conversation:
>
> "Garbage Man's Companion!" he says...
>
> "Fix Or Repair Daily!"  I said...
>
> "Can Hear Every Valve Rattle On Lifter Every Time!"
>
> "Found On Road Dead!  Driver Returns On Foot!
>
> When the light went green, he lit up the tires, shifted into second, and
> stalled it, looking like an idiot.  Then I used my clean-up line:
>
> "F**ked On Race Day!"

Don't forget (for future reference) that the ~all time favorite~
(especially in that given situation) is F**k, Our Ride Died!

Charley Buehner
buehner@lyrea.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Aug 1997 16:35:06 +0600
From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Subject: RE: 70 455 burning oil

>Valve guides usually cause smoking on start up, but then it clears up
>unless they are REALLY bad, but then you would notice a fairly noisy
>valve train. The sounds of your symptoms, sounds like an oil ring broke.
>( Does it smoke pretty good when you let off the gas on the f-way??)
>
> Either way you A.) pull the heads and have them done, B.) re-ring it.
>C.) Both.
>
>Check the PVC and/or any other breathers you have..a blocked one could
>also cause high consumption.

Yes! Be sure and check that PVC valve!  If you're lucky it's not working and
sucking the oil out of the  valve cover.  It's a $2 fix.  That happended to
the 350 in my Vista Cruiser a few months ago.  It was using as much oil as
your 455  is.  Changed the pcv valve and now it's just burning/leaking about
a pint every 1500.  It was a big relief to find out it didn't need rings
allready.

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista Cruiser
`67 Cutlass Supreme

>

>Good Luck..John
>
>72 Cutlass CS 455
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Aug 1997 17:21:23 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: 70 455 burning oil

At 12:16 PM 8/5/97 -0500, you wrote:
>I have a 70 442 that is burning a lot of oil.  About a quart every 300
>miles.  The engine is a 455, 10.25:1 compression, w30 cam and E heads.
>It smokes a little when I first start it or when I floor it from a stop.
>
>Can someone tell me how to find out where the oil is going and what work
>it will take to fix it.  This car is a nice daily driver and I want to
>keep it in top shape.
>
>Aslo I have been wondering if the last 6 digits of the VIN should match
>the 6 digits in the sequence number of the body style tag.  If not what
>could have happened?
>
>mike
>

Mike

        This could be as simple as valve stem seals or as bad as needing
rings. I would conduct a compression check on the engine to figure out
exactly where it's coming from.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Aug 1997 12:49:59 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@nfs.aisf.com>
Subject: Re: Popular Mechanics Shoot-Out

Tom,

> By the way, I have two 1972 magazines with road tests of the '72 W-30.  I'd
> be happy to post the figures from those tests, if anyone is interested.

Yupper!

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Aug 1997 12:48:31 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@nfs.aisf.com>
Subject: [Fwd: Re: Value of car]

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- --------------13C832D6308D
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

My server is back!!!!

- --------------13C832D6308D
Content-Type: message/rfc822
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

Received: from olafsvik (olafsvik.aisf.com [204.107.193.69]) by 
wanchai.aisf.com
with SMTP (8.7.6/8.7.3) id NAA06988; Mon, 4 Aug 1997 13:05:43 -0700 (PDT)
Sender: sparks Message-ID: <33E6361C.7C93@aisf.com> Date: Mon, 04 Aug 1997
13:05:48 -0700 From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@nfs.aisf.com>
Organization: McDonnell Douglas Soon to be Boeing X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (X11; 
I;
HP-UX B.10.20 9000/778) MIME-Version: 1.0 To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca 
Subject:
Re: Value of car References:
<c=US%a=_%p=GTE%l=CHNTEXCHANGE-970804194252Z-1938@ndhm06.ndhm.gtegsc.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi all,

I just wanted to know how much a classic car depreciates when the frame
gets bent and is restraightened?  In my particular case, the rear
portion of my frame got bent as a result of the accident.  I want some
ammo to present to the insurance company stating that my car was in
perfect body shape (no accidents) prior to the accident.  Now I can't
claim that its body is perfect because of the accident.  I want to tell
them that as part of the settlement, they need to add in depreciation
of my vehicle.  Any help on this one?


Chris Sparks

68 442 SC (Still waiting for repair)
68 442 HT (Still sitting on this car)
82 DRB    (Daily driver)


- --------------13C832D6308D--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Aug 1997 12:48:52 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@nfs.aisf.com>
Subject: [Fwd: Popular Mechanics?]

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- --------------31D4317824B1
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

My server is back!

- --------------31D4317824B1
Content-Type: message/rfc822
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

Received: from olafsvik (olafsvik.aisf.com [204.107.193.69]) by 
wanchai.aisf.com
with SMTP (8.7.6/8.7.3) id GAA08827; Tue, 5 Aug 1997 06:48:40 -0700 (PDT)
Sender: sparks Message-ID: <33E72F3D.7A17@aisf.com> Date: Tue, 05 Aug 1997
06:48:45 -0700 From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@nfs.aisf.com>
Organization: McDonnell Douglas Soon to be Boeing X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (X11; 
I;
HP-UX B.10.20 9000/778) MIME-Version: 1.0 To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca 
Subject:
Popular Mechanics? Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Earlier today I was reading an e-mail from this list from someone who
mentioned the top ten car by 1/4 mile.  What about the 1968-1969 Hurst
Oldses.  Aren't these faster than the W30 that was mentioned?  Also
when getting a relative rating on a car, just the time is not really
fair.  If I had a 2000 lb car with my 68's 400 engine, I would be
pretty menacing too!  I keep toying with the idea of coming up with a
rating system that takes into account the time (1/4 mile, whatever),
weight, "n"-speed, engine size, compression ratio, add-ons (turbo,
ram air), horse power (actual), carb flow rate, and any other things
that I can't think of now.  It is my opinion that if I had a 4000 lb
car with 300 hp, a 2000 lb car with 150 hp would be on par with each
other given that all other factors are similar.

I work with a fellow who has one of those Mitsu-sleezy cars and he
claims that he could beat my car in a race (my 68 442).  Well maybe
he can, however, lets see him limit his driving to the first 3 gear
positions and lets puts equal weights into the car.  I bet we would
have a good go at it!

Ok I stop ramblering (bad pun I know :-).

Chris Sparks
68 442 SC
68 442 HT
82 DRB


- --------------31D4317824B1--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 17:38:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: Machine Shop Prices?

> I HAD MY 67 C-HEADS DONE, 3 angle, etc all the proper stuff 4 around$250

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Aug 1997 11:05:10 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@nfs.aisf.com>
Subject: [Fwd: Re: Value of car]

Received: from olafsvik (olafsvik.aisf.com [204.107.193.69]) by 
wanchai.aisf.com
with SMTP (8.7.6/8.7.3) id NAA06988; Mon, 4 Aug 1997 13:05:43 -0700 (PDT)
Sender: sparks Message-ID: <33E6361C.7C93@aisf.com> Date: Mon, 04 Aug 1997
13:05:48 -0700 From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@nfs.aisf.com>
Organization: McDonnell Douglas Soon to be Boeing X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (X11; 
I;
HP-UX B.10.20 9000/778) MIME-Version: 1.0 To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca 
Subject:
Re: Value of car References:
<c=US%a=_%p=GTE%l=CHNTEXCHANGE-970804194252Z-1938@ndhm06.ndhm.gtegsc.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi all,

I just wanted to know how much a classic car depreciates when the frame
gets bent and is restraightened?  In my particular case, the rear
portion of my frame got bent as a result of the accident.  I want some
ammo to present to the insurance company stating that my car was in
perfect body shape (no accidents) prior to the accident.  Now I can't
claim that its body is perfect because of the accident.  I want to tell
them that as part of the settlement, they need to add in depreciation
of my vehicle.  Any help on this one?


Chris Sparks

68 442 SC (Still waiting for repair)
68 442 HT (Still sitting on this car)
82 DRB    (Daily driver)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Aug 1997 11:05:45 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@nfs.aisf.com>
Subject: [Fwd: Popular Mechanics?]

Received: from olafsvik (olafsvik.aisf.com [204.107.193.69]) by 
wanchai.aisf.com
with SMTP (8.7.6/8.7.3) id GAA08827; Tue, 5 Aug 1997 06:48:40 -0700 (PDT)
Sender: sparks Message-ID: <33E72F3D.7A17@aisf.com> Date: Tue, 05 Aug 1997
06:48:45 -0700 From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@nfs.aisf.com>
Organization: McDonnell Douglas Soon to be Boeing X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (X11; 
I;
HP-UX B.10.20 9000/778) MIME-Version: 1.0 To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca 
Subject:
Popular Mechanics? Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Earlier today I was reading an e-mail from this list from someone who
mentioned the top ten car by 1/4 mile.  What about the 1968-1969 Hurst
Oldses.  Aren't these faster than the W30 that was mentioned?  Also
when getting a relative rating on a car, just the time is not really
fair.  If I had a 2000 lb car with my 68's 400 engine, I would be
pretty menacing too!  I keep toying with the idea of coming up with a
rating system that takes into account the time (1/4 mile, whatever),
weight, "n"-speed, engine size, compression ratio, add-ons (turbo,
ram air), horse power (actual), carb flow rate, and any other things
that I can't think of now.  It is my opinion that if I had a 4000 lb
car with 300 hp, a 2000 lb car with 150 hp would be on par with each
other given that all other factors are similar.

I work with a fellow who has one of those Mitsu-sleezy cars and he
claims that he could beat my car in a race (my 68 442).  Well maybe
he can, however, lets see him limit his driving to the first 3 gear
positions and lets puts equal weights into the car.  I bet we would
have a good go at it!

Ok I stop ramblering (bad pun I know :-).

Chris Sparks
68 442 SC
68 442 HT
82 DRB

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 17:41:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: CAR 4 SALE AND 350 QUESTION

"""""I live in central nj, about 15 min south of newark airport

 conv is rusty, youd have 2 replace all lines, hoses etc, who knows about the
susp, and eng, hasnt run un a while, but it does run.....

 other car has decent frame and posi though...............

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Aug 1997 06:48:45 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@nfs.aisf.com>
Subject: Popular Mechanics?

Earlier today I was reading an e-mail from this list from someone who
mentioned the top ten car by 1/4 mile.  What about the 1968-1969 Hurst
Oldses.  Aren't these faster than the W30 that was mentioned?  Also
when getting a relative rating on a car, just the time is not really
fair.  If I had a 2000 lb car with my 68's 400 engine, I would be
pretty menacing too!  I keep toying with the idea of coming up with a
rating system that takes into account the time (1/4 mile, whatever),
weight, "n"-speed, engine size, compression ratio, add-ons (turbo,
ram air), horse power (actual), carb flow rate, and any other things
that I can't think of now.  It is my opinion that if I had a 4000 lb
car with 300 hp, a 2000 lb car with 150 hp would be on par with each
other given that all other factors are similar.

I work with a fellow who has one of those Mitsu-sleezy cars and he
claims that he could beat my car in a race (my 68 442).  Well maybe
he can, however, lets see him limit his driving to the first 3 gear
positions and lets puts equal weights into the car.  I bet we would
have a good go at it!

Ok I stop ramblering (bad pun I know :-).

Chris Sparks
68 442 SC
68 442 HT
82 DRB

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Aug 1997 06:37:36 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@nfs.aisf.com>
Subject: [Fwd: Re: Value of car] Second request

Received: from olafsvik (olafsvik.aisf.com [204.107.193.69]) by 
wanchai.aisf.com
with SMTP (8.7.6/8.7.3) id NAA06988; Mon, 4 Aug 1997 13:05:43 -0700 (PDT)
Sender: sparks Message-ID: <33E6361C.7C93@aisf.com> Date: Mon, 04 Aug 1997
13:05:48 -0700 From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@nfs.aisf.com>
Organization: McDonnell Douglas Soon to be Boeing X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (X11; 
I;
HP-UX B.10.20 9000/778) MIME-Version: 1.0 To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca 
Subject:
Re: Value of car References:
<c=US%a=_%p=GTE%l=CHNTEXCHANGE-970804194252Z-1938@ndhm06.ndhm.gtegsc.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi all,

I just wanted to know how much a classic car depreciates when the frame
gets bent and is restraightened?  In my particular case, the rear
portion of my frame got bent as a result of the accident.  I want some
ammo to present to the insurance company stating that my car was in
perfect body shape (no accidents) prior to the accident.  Now I can't
claim that its body is perfect because of the accident.  I want to tell
them that as part of the settlement, they need to add in depreciation
of my vehicle.  Any help on this one?


Chris Sparks

68 442 SC (Still waiting for repair)
68 442 HT (Still sitting on this car)
82 DRB    (Daily driver)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 04 Aug 1997 13:05:48 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@nfs.aisf.com>
Subject: Re: Value of car

Hi all,

I just wanted to know how much a classic car depreciates when the frame
gets bent and is restraightened?  In my particular case, the rear
portion of my frame got bent as a result of the accident.  I want some
ammo to present to the insurance company stating that my car was in
perfect body shape (no accidents) prior to the accident.  Now I can't
claim that its body is perfect because of the accident.  I want to tell
them that as part of the settlement, they need to add in depreciation
of my vehicle.  Any help on this one?


Chris Sparks

68 442 SC (Still waiting for repair)
68 442 HT (Still sitting on this car)
82 DRB    (Daily driver)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 18:12:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: The Sugarmans <sugarman@berkshire.net>
Subject: '69 442 Axle Update

Greetings, folks.

Recap: Last week I started a search for an axle for my son's '69 442.  The
axle is a non-C-type in a 12-bold differential with 10-bolt system guts.

The mechanic arranged for a friend to machine the 10-bolt system axle he
had to match the one taken from the 442.  That worked out, but it turned
out that the splines were not the same.  Apparently the depth of the
groove between the splines did not match the differential.

He found a source in the midwest somewhere that makes axles to order.  I
expect it by Thursday (air freight, since UPS in on strike).  They charge
$210 for one or $380 for a pair.  I will post the name of this and another
vendor as soon as I get them from the shop.

Sooooo...waiting.

don sugarman

sugarman@berkshire.net
FAX 413-443-7395

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Aug 1997 18:18:13 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Popular Mechanics?]

At 11:05 AM 8/5/97 -0700, you wrote:
>Earlier today I was reading an e-mail from this list from someone who
>mentioned the top ten car by 1/4 mile.  What about the 1968-1969 Hurst
>Oldses.  Aren't these faster than the W30 that was mentioned?  Also
>when getting a relative rating on a car, just the time is not really
>fair.  If I had a 2000 lb car with my 68's 400 engine, I would be
>pretty menacing too!  I keep toying with the idea of coming up with a
>rating system that takes into account the time (1/4 mile, whatever),
>weight, "n"-speed, engine size, compression ratio, add-ons (turbo,
>ram air), horse power (actual), carb flow rate, and any other things
>that I can't think of now.  It is my opinion that if I had a 4000 lb
>car with 300 hp, a 2000 lb car with 150 hp would be on par with each
>other given that all other factors are similar.
>
>I work with a fellow who has one of those Mitsu-sleezy cars and he
>claims that he could beat my car in a race (my 68 442).  Well maybe
>he can, however, lets see him limit his driving to the first 3 gear
>positions and lets puts equal weights into the car.  I bet we would
>have a good go at it!
>
>Ok I stop ramblering (bad pun I know :-).
>
>Chris Sparks
>68 442 SC
>68 442 HT
>82 DRB
>
Hey Chris,

        Just to let you know those 68-69 400 engines were bricks compared to
the 66-67 short stroke 400. Those things were faster than the Hurst/Olds due
to a huge weight difference. My 67 W-30 only weighs 3327 with gas. I don't
think there was a H/O made that was less than 3800 lbs.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 17:21:21 -0500 (CDT)
From: jkpkobin@discover-net.net (Jeff & Patti Kobinsky)
Subject: timing chain help please

A previous message regarding my timing chain in my 1986 "98"  v6 led me to
believe it was time to change the plastic cam gear before the resulting
(possible) failure trashed the motor.

Unit has 139.000 miles and runs perfect - and I would like to keep driving
so I can save a few bucks to restore my 65 F85 & 74 442.

After checking with local shop, I was told that my motor came with Both all
metal or combo of metal & plastic.

I was told that the vin ª 1G3CX69B9G1324178 identifies the motor with the
eighth letter (B) as having the all metal gear & chain (nothing to worry
about) and "A" ment a Plastic gear that would be up for replacement.

I would like to make it to Lansing (and back) with this car, and definitly
will not do any work it does not need.

I was also told this motor was "non interference" and would NOT take out
anything else if the timing chain/gear failed.

I would appreciate any help on this before I spend money .

Jeff

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 18:27:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mr57olds@aol.com
Subject: Re: RTV: Stumped or Stupid???

I have seen several failed engines with this stuff clogging the oil pump
screen.  Also donot use where gas may come in contact.  A little is ok just
don't use enough that excess will be extruded inside engien.
Good Luck
mr57olds
a 54 four door
57 holidays sedan off frame restore
64 cutlass convert  next to do
64 cutlass hardtop

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 22:36:13 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: 455 oil pan

 Coupe,

Did you know that a little body work w/a dolley & hammer plus some bondo can
make a less than perfect oil pan like new.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

- -----Original Message-----
From: COUPEKING@aol.com <COUPEKING@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, August 05, 1997 4:41 PM
Subject: 455 oil pan



>Need a clean non dented oil pan for my '69 442 conv. Anybody got one?
>Coupe King @aol.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 20:42:21 -0300
From: OLDZ69442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Fender Bracket

John Richmond,

Concerning the lower fender bracket, I was able to get a very good used one
for my 69 442, from Old Gold Parts in Florida ---800 736 0262.
Hope this helps.

Bob Iozia
69 442
57 Ch*vy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 22:12:20 -0300
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: 403 swap

>> BTW, I think you can still get a rebuilt 403 from GM Goodwrench; this was a
>> year ago, but they were phasing them out I think.
>
>PAW is still offering Olds 350, 403, & 455. Thanks for the info on the
>Goodwrench engine. May have to check on that. I think that PAW would
>have better head cores than the original 403 heads.

Well, all 403's used the same 4A heads, so unless you specified a custom
setup, all rebuilt 403's would likely have the same 4A heads (with
2.00"/1.50" valves).
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 22:12:39 -0300
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: 70' Rear Bumper

> I am looking for a 70' Cutlass rear bumper in excellent shape.  One with or
>without the exhaust cutouts.  If you have any good ones or good cores, E-mail
>me back with prices and shipping costs.

Repros are available for around $340, whatever style you want. A good core
and rechroming might run you nearly as much.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date:
From:
Subject: [none]



------------------------------

Date:
From:
Subject: [none]



------------------------------

Date:
From:
Subject: [none]



------------------------------

Date:
From:
Subject: [none]



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 21:21:39 -0300
From: Michael Lowe <mlowe@pop.erols.com>
Subject: Re: W-machines newsletter? are you intrested?

I for one would be interested.  I also would be interested in old issues of
the old "W-Machines" Olds club chapter "magazine" newsletter ( 1982-1985).


At 10:48 PM 8/3/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Hello, a fellow owner of Oldsmobiles and I have decided to make a monthly
>newsletter dedicated to the W-machines. Are you intrested? Tell me about what
>you think and what you would like to see!
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Aug 1997 00:08:38 -0400
From: dgerow@stonehill.edu (Daniel R. Gerow)
Subject: Re: Popular Mechanics Shoot-Out

> By the way, I have two 1972 magazines with road tests of the '72
> W-30.  I'd
> be happy to post the figures from those tests, if anyone is
> interested.
>
> Tom Stoner
> Oldsmobile Club of America ª3943
> Ann Arbor, MI
> tgstoner@umich.edu

  Yeah yeah!  Post 'em please.  I love this stuff!  Thanks.

- --
Daniel R. Gerow
WSHL-FM 91.3
Stonehill College Radio
- -----------------------
http://www.stonehill.edu
http://www.stonehill.edu/wshl
http://www2.stonehill.edu/~dgerow
- ---------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Aug 1997 00:12:03 -0400
From: dgerow@stonehill.edu (Daniel R. Gerow)
Subject: Re: Popular Mechanics?

Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) wrote:

> Earlier today I was reading an e-mail from this list from someone who
> mentioned the top ten car by 1/4 mile.  What about the 1968-1969 Hurst
>
> Oldses.  Aren't these faster than the W30 that was mentioned?

> Ok I stop ramblering (bad pun I know :-).

> Chris Sparks
> 68 442 SC
> 68 442 HT
> 82 DRB

  The cars that I mentioned were involved in a shoot-out published by
Popular Mechanics in the August '97 issue.  They took new "muscle cars"
and ran them up against vintage steel to see what the results would be.
It's a rather interesting turn out, especially the W-30.  Check it out
and see for yourself!

- --
Daniel R. Gerow
WSHL-FM 91.3
Stonehill College Radio
- -----------------------
http://www.stonehill.edu
http://www.stonehill.edu/wshl
http://www2.stonehill.edu/~dgerow
- ---------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 21:00:26 -0300
From: "M. Gillespie" <mgillespie@SPRYNET.COM>
Subject: Re: '69 442 Axle Update

Don,
It sounds like you may finally have a good solution. I definitely need to
know how to get in touch with this guy as soon as you have the info.
 How did you spec. out the axle to the machinist? The 12 bolt/10 bolt
scenario sounds pretty complicated.

Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass S Conv.

- ----------
> From: The Sugarmans <sugarman@berkshire.net>
> To: Olds List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: '69 442 Axle Update
> Date: Tuesday, August 05, 1997 5:12 PM
>
>
> Greetings, folks.
>
> Recap: Last week I started a search for an axle for my son's '69 442.
The
> axle is a non-C-type in a 12-bold differential with 10-bolt system guts.
>
> The mechanic arranged for a friend to machine the 10-bolt system axle he
> had to match the one taken from the 442.  That worked out, but it turned
> out that the splines were not the same.  Apparently the depth of the
> groove between the splines did not match the differential.
>
> He found a source in the midwest somewhere that makes axles to order.  I
> expect it by Thursday (air freight, since UPS in on strike).  They charge
> $210 for one or $380 for a pair.  I will post the name of this and
another
> vendor as soon as I get them from the shop.
>
> Sooooo...waiting.
>
> don sugarman
>
> sugarman@berkshire.net
> FAX 413-443-7395

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 22:16:35 -0300
From: Ronald Campbell <rbcampb@ibm.net>
Subject: 1973 Olds Cutlass Supreme

Good day to all. I am presently not subscribing to this conference but it is
only because of my very slow modem and slow computer that I don't get on
enough so please bear with me. I am the original owner of a 1973 Olds
Cutlass Supreme, 2 DR, 350 4 BL, AC, PS, PB, with 180,000 miles. I am
rebuilding my car in what has turned out to be a 5 year project so far and
am presently soliciting input from the Olds community. Item 1 - My car had a
vynal roof and what with our wonderful winters here in Toronto, the end
result being that the roof is in pretty bad shape. I have contacted many
junk yards both locally and via the Internet but they all laugh when I
mention I am looking for a 73. I would like to locate the front of the roof,
about 6-8 inches back as long as I don't have to mortgage the house to get
it. The alternative is to build a jig and form it myself but if I could get
something that would fit it would sure save me a lot grief. Item 2 - this is
striclty a logistic question and your comments are appriciated. I have
removed all the glass to work on the roof. When I have the roof rebuilt, I
plan to put a vynal roof on again (white vynal with the rest of the car
blue, looks great) but the question is what order should this be done?
Should I put in the front and read windows then put the vynal roof on and
then paint the body? Or should I paint the body first, put the vynal roof on
and then the glass or maybe put the glass in first and then the vynal roof?
Any ideas to save me grief later on and I will be forever in your debt.
Please respond by direct email to me.
thanks for any advice or assistance ...Ron Campbell,  Markham, Ontario

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 12:13:44 -0300
From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Subject: test, erase

No messages lately, making sure I wasn't booted.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 21:51:58 -0300
From: "James L. Smith" <floydfan@wiltel.net>
Subject: Re: super sport 1 wheels

At 01:38 AM 8/2/97 -0400, you wrote:
>what does a set of 4 nice ss1 wheels go for. i want to put a set on my 67
>convertible upon completion. thanks!
>
>brent
>1967 cutlass convertible
>

Brent,
      I have a nice set(5) that I would consider selling. They have the
center caps and have decent tires mounted on them. Coker tires is
reproducing them @ 130.00 per rim and caps are 41.00 each. I am finishing up
the A to F knuckle conversion and must run 15" from now on. E me and we will
see what we can work up. floydfan@wiltel.net

Jim Smith
65 442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 22:12:25 -0300
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: 403 swap

>> Their newest catalog only lists a 455 Olds (If available)
>
> Is it really worth buying a rebuilt motor from a store like Pep Boys or
something?  What parts are new, and what's re-used?  If I were to shell out
cash like that, I wouldn't want a crankshaft with 150,000 miles on it...

Well, I doubt that you'll find a new Olds crank many places; most sources
will be for reground cranks (-.010" or -.020"), which are just fine. As long
as there are no cracks, you'll be all set.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 23:09:37 -0300
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: A/F and oil questions...

Hello fellow Oldsmobilers:

My Delta 88 (305 4bbl.) is on the sidelines right now, and I plan to
make it road-ready this fall.  I usually fire it up every few days, let
it run up to operating temperature, and maybe take it for a short drive
in the back-40.  Is the a/f overflow very accurate?  When the engine is
cold, the level is always a 1/4" above the MAX. HOT, which is a good two
inches below the MAX. COLD level.  I poured in some straight Prestone
about a month ago (up to the MAX. COLD), and it quickly returned to the
same level.  The level won't fall any further, even under stress, such
as half an hour of idling, or opening up the four-barrels for a few
hundred yards...

I haven't noticed any leaking a/f, so I figure it may be seeping into
the cylinders.  What could be gone?  Head gasket?  Intake gasket?  The
car doesn't blow any white smoke at oper. temp., but there is a couple
small puffs for the first minute...it doesn't help that the auto choke
thermo is F.U.B.A.R.

Since all of this running is short, I keep the oil changed.  I've got
access to name-brand oils at cost price, so I change the oil once it
gets real nice and black.  What about DuraLube?  Since most engine wear
is at start-up, I want to throw in a bottle.  There were a few messages
posted saying that any more than 1% is bad, but what happens if I could
reduce that to 0.5% (only throw in 1/2 a bottle)?  What about 100%
synthetic, such as Castrol Syntec, Q.S. Synquest and so on...

I want the engine to last as long as possible, and that's why I want to
clear up this a/f problem, plus get a little info on this oil subject.
Right now I'm running Valvoline 10W-30, with a can of STP oil
supplement...it helps keep the valvetrain quiet.  It only rattles a
little at start-up...

I'd like to pick up a Cutlass within the next year or two:  I want
something a little more performance-oriented, but still an Oldsmobile.
Were there Cutlass's made with the 350 or 455?  I already have an Olds
with the 307, and it could fall prey to a scooter...

S. Dave Ward

'78 Delta 88 (350 4bbl.)
'85 Delta 88 (307 4bbl.)
'91 GMC Sierra 4x4 (305 TBI)

"You could set my Olds on fire, or throw it in a lake, but it could
still out-run a Z-28!"

"If it weren't for Fords, SNAP-ON would be out of business!"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 21:37:00 -0300
From: Aaron D Eoff <sheep542@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: CAR 4 SALE AND 350 QUESTION

At 05:41 PM 8/5/97 -0400, you wrote:
>"""""I live in central nj, about 15 min south of newark airport
>
> conv is rusty, youd have 2 replace all lines, hoses etc, who knows about the
>susp, and eng, hasnt run un a while, but it does run.....
>
> other car has decent frame and posi though...............
>
ªWhat kind of cars are these reffering to???  I also live in nj and am
looking for parts  if the cars are compatible.

Aaron D Eoff
   ///////  ///////
       //       //
      //       //
     //       //
    //       //  'twas a goodyear

1977 Olds Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 22:12:41 -0300
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: RTV: Stumped or Stupid???

>Either we stumped everybody or we asked a really stupid question. Does
>anybody know if RTV that oozes inside the engine (water and oil
>passages) during a rebuild is harmful in any way. Does it stay put or
>does it break off and get processed by the engine (filtered? burned up?)
>or can it gum up the works? Maybe it's like that age old question: If a
>tree falls down in the woods when nobody's around, does it make a sound?
>We don't know....does anybody else?

Some of the RTV I used on the water pump on my rebuilt 403 broke loose, and
jammed my thermostat open, I suppose the valley pan would retain some of the
stuff if you used it on the intake.

But yes, it can clog things up, either in the water system, or in the oil
pan/drainback. So use it sparingly, and let it set a bit before bolting
things together, so that if it does ooze out, it will simply bulge rather
than break off.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Aug 1997 01:40:23 -0300
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Is this dealer still open

I've only seen the phone number, don't think they're on line yet.

What was the dealer number for that dealer?  I have a dealer number i want
to inquire about - when I call them (some day) i can ask about yours also.

Lisa

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Aug 1997 01:32:38 -0400
From: "MROTHE" <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Fat H/O's

> >Earlier today I was reading an e-mail from this list from someone who
> >mentioned the top ten car by 1/4 mile.  What about the 1968-1969 Hurst
> >Oldses.  Aren't these faster than the W30 that was mentioned?

>         Just to let you know those 68-69 400 engines were bricks compared
to
> the 66-67 short stroke 400. Those things were faster than the Hurst/Olds
due
> to a huge weight difference. My 67 W-30 only weighs 3327 with gas. I
don't
> think there was a H/O made that was less than 3800 lbs.
>
> Jim Chermack

Hey Jim,

You are right.  Even the H/O engines were lighter than the 68-9 400
"bricks".  The H/O for 68 was a screamer though, but it did have a weight
disadvantage.  (Must have been the FAT Dual Gate.)  The 69 H/O was a mover
in its own right, but it really was meant to "look fast", when compared to
a 68 non-air H/O.  Just to let YOU know that all Oldsmobiles deserve equal
and fair treatment-----  I could take my 85 442 and trash your 67 W-30 if
you pull 6 plug wires first.........Even the 85's weighed in at around
3600.   Too fat!!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Aug 1997 23:45:54 +0000
From: TERRANCE ROHNER <tthiel@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: 1973 Olds Cutlass Supreme

Ronald Campbell wrote:
>
> Good day to all. I am presently not subscribing to this conference but it is
> only because of my very slow modem and slow computer that I don't get on
> enough so please bear with me. I am the original owner of a 1973 Olds
> Cutlass Supreme, 2 DR, 350 4 BL, AC, PS, PB, with 180,000 miles. I am
> rebuilding my car in what has turned out to be a 5 year project so far and
> am presently soliciting input from the Olds community. Item 1 - My car had a
> vynal roof and what with our wonderful winters here in Toronto, the end
> result being that the roof is in pretty bad shape. I have contacted many
> junk yards both locally and via the Internet but they all laugh when I
> mention I am looking for a 73. I would like to locate the front of the roof,
> about 6-8 inches back as long as I don't have to mortgage the house to get
> it. The alternative is to build a jig and form it myself but if I could get
> something that would fit it would sure save me a lot grief. Item 2 - this is
> striclty a logistic question and your comments are appriciated. I have
> removed all the glass to work on the roof. When I have the roof rebuilt, I
> plan to put a vynal roof on again (white vynal with the rest of the car
> blue, looks great) but the question is what order should this be done?
> Should I put in the front and read windows then put the vynal roof on and
> then paint the body? Or should I paint the body first, put the vynal roof on
> and then the glass or maybe put the glass in first and then the vynal roof?
> Any ideas to save me grief later on and I will be forever in your debt.
> Please respond by direct email to me.
> thanks for any advice or assistance ...Ron Campbell,  Markham, Ontario



I had a 75' 442 with a vinyl top and it was blue only I put a black one
on it. Any way you only really need the coroner windows out. First paint
your car, which actually I sprayed my whole car in primer and didn't
spray paint on the whole part that the vinyl was covering, It doesn't
matter. Then after it's painted you put on your vinyl top. make sure the
car is real real real clean othrewise it will stay on for awhile and
then 6 months later when your going down the road at 90 or so you'll
hear a flapping noise and your nice vinyl top will then look like shit!
So after you get your top on let the glue settle good and if your not in
a big hurry let it set a day. After that you can seal your windows in
and then put your chrome pieces on. Oh and try to get new ones, they
always seem to work better.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Aug 1997 02:00:44 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: A/F and oil questions...

Dave Ward wrote:
>
> Hello fellow Oldsmobilers:
>
> My Delta 88 (305 4bbl.) is on the sidelines right now, and I plan to
> make it road-ready this fall.  I usually fire it up every few days, let
> it run up to operating temperature, and maybe take it for a short drive
> in the back-40.  Is the a/f overflow very accurate?  When the engine is
> cold, the level is always a 1/4" above the MAX. HOT, which is a good two
> inches below the MAX. COLD level.  I poured in some straight Prestone
> about a month ago (up to the MAX. COLD), and it quickly returned to the
> same level.  The level won't fall any further, even under stress, such
> as half an hour of idling, or opening up the four-barrels for a few
> hundred yards...
>
> I haven't noticed any leaking a/f, so I figure it may be seeping into
> the cylinders.  What could be gone?  Head gasket?  Intake gasket?  The
> car doesn't blow any white smoke at oper. temp., but there is a couple
> small puffs for the first minute...it doesn't help that the auto choke
> thermo is F.U.B.A.R.
>
> Since all of this running is short, I keep the oil changed.  I've got
> access to name-brand oils at cost price, so I change the oil once it
> gets real nice and black.  What about DuraLube?  Since most engine wear
> is at start-up, I want to throw in a bottle.  There were a few messages
> posted saying that any more than 1% is bad, but what happens if I could
> reduce that to 0.5% (only throw in 1/2 a bottle)?  What about 100%
> synthetic, such as Castrol Syntec, Q.S. Synquest and so on...
>
> I want the engine to last as long as possible, and that's why I want to
> clear up this a/f problem, plus get a little info on this oil subject.
> Right now I'm running Valvoline 10W-30, with a can of STP oil
> supplement...it helps keep the valvetrain quiet.  It only rattles a
> little at start-up...
>
> I'd like to pick up a Cutlass within the next year or two:  I want
> something a little more performance-oriented, but still an Oldsmobile.
> Were there Cutlass's made with the 350 or 455?  I already have an Olds
> with the 307, and it could fall prey to a scooter...
>
> S. Dave Ward
>
> '78 Delta 88 (350 4bbl.)
> '85 Delta 88 (307 4bbl.)
> '91 GMC Sierra 4x4 (305 TBI)
>
> "You could set my Olds on fire, or throw it in a lake, but it could
> still out-run a Z-28!"
>
> "If it weren't for Fords, SNAP-ON would be out of business!"
Dave,

Back when I drove my 69 350 4-bbl, 4-spd with a/c (and I mention this as
a reference point) I could fill the radiator up to the top and it would
lose, kickout or whatever about 2" down in the radiator core.  I never
did figure out what caused it as I eventually quit driving it due to a
trans problem.  The car would start to get hot in Alabama summer weather
(really hot) with the air on in slow or stalled traffic.  If I drove it
70+ mph it would cool down again (didn't like slow speeds).  Never knew
why it did this.  Hopefully when I start restoring it next year, I will
take care of this problem and all others that show up.

Later,
Don Sowers

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª786
********************************
