To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #798


oldsmobile-digest      Wednesday, August 13 1997      Volume 01 : Number 798



Re: PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale
Re: ADMIN: Posting Reminder
O.A.I. letters painted?
Re: Key question
Re: power brake booster ?
Re: PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale
Re: TH-350C Rebuild Debate...  Questions...
Re: covt. top problems conclusion
Mid 70's Vintage Toronado's
Re: Just addin' my name to the Lansing List!
Re: power brake booster ?
RE: power brake booster ?
Cars for Sale
Re: ADMIN: Posting Reminder
Re: delta 88s (Distributors)
Re: power brake booster ?
Re: Mid 70's Vintage Toronado's
Re: TH-350C Rebuild Debate...  Questions...
Re: PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale
Re: Lansing list
Re: PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale
'67 Hurst Hairy Olds
Re: automatic car watch
Re: O.A.I. letters painted?
Need List!
(Event): All-Oldsmobile Funshow
Re: Power T-tops
RE: power brake booster ?
Re: Intro & Question
70 442 Conv - What to do?
Power T-tops and Toro F/S
Re: stereo in a convertable?
Re: 70 442 Conv - What to do?
Re: 70 442 Conv - What to do?
Re: 70 442 Conv - What to do?
Re: 70 442 Conv - What to do?
Re: 70 442 Conv - What to do?
Re: 70 442 Conv - What to do?
Re: 70 442 Conv - What to do?
Re: 70 442 Conv - What to do?
Re: covt. top problems conclusion
Re: covt. top problems conclusion
Re: covt. top problems conclusion
Squealing_fans
86 442 for sale
ROOMS IN LANSING
Re: PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale
accomodations in Lansing
Re: tire size question
Re: stereo in a convertable?
Re: O.A.I. letters painted?
69 tailight housings
68 OLDS 455
Re: Mid 70's Vintage Toronado's
Re: 68 OLDS 455
Re: [Fwd: Power T-tops and Toro F/S]
Re: Squealing_fans

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 07:13:18 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@nfs.aisf.com>
Subject: Re: PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale

Lloyd W. Culp wrote:

> Prior to the offering of the grid type defrosters - ask Andy Green about
> them - GM offered the glower type defrosters in nearly every car starting

Well what color does is glow?!?!?

> around 1960.  You should notice an opening in the metal of your rear deck to
> receive this accessory.  Installation is simple except for some dashes
> requiring disassembly to install the switches.

These items must be hard to find.  I have tried junkyards to no avail.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 10:17:17 -0400 (EDT)
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Posting Reminder

I like your idea. I'm overwhelmed also with volume, and am considering to
uns*bscribe.  Too much chaff for the wheat.
I think Cars for sale/Parts for sale/Questions may help narrow it down.
IMHO...Coupe King

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Aug 1997 22:31:43 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: O.A.I. letters painted?

Here's a question I keep forgetting to ask.

On the top section of the OAI air cleaner assembly, (in front of the
"flapper"), the molded plastic has "OLDSMOBILE" on it.

Q.  Originally, back in 1970-1972, were these letters painted white
from the factory?

I always thought guys did this themselves, until I saw an 1970 Olds ad
featuring the W-25 hood.  The ad pictured a 70' cutlass with the W-25
hood opened.  I looked and sure enough the molded "OLDSMOBILE"
lettering in front of the air "flapper" was white!?!

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 09:23:39 -0500
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Subject: Re: Key question

>>I have a 1972 Olds Cutlass Supreme Convertible that doesn't have a key for
>>the ignition. Does anyone know what I can do? It's hard to move around with
>>the steering wheel locked. Any sugestions would be appreciated.
>
>While you can pull the wheel, I believe the door and ignition locks share
>the same key, so you can pull the door cylinder and have one made up at a
>locksmith shop for about $10-$15 (I had to for my SX; then I had him make
>*lots* of spares).

I'm confused here: unless the original poster can't lock/unlock his doors
either, the ignition switch on _this_ car must be using a different key
for some reason. If this is true, that ignition lock cylinder will have
to come out anyway... though at that point it can be rekeyed to match
the doors...

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 11:33:44 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: power brake booster ?

On Tue, 12 Aug 1997 mrhell@m1.sprynet.com wrote:
> year one has a booster, unpainted.  So, I have a few more questions I'd
> like help with.
> Q. Does anyone know the best, (best regarding an original part and low
> price), place to buy a new brake booster?  I've found year one to
> always be higher priced, but I do want the correct part.
> Q. What is the proper color to paint the booster and where can I get
> this paint?  Does this color have a particular name?

They weren't painted. They were cadmium plated and looked a very neat
shiny gold/silver/orange/green/purple shade. If this was my car, I'd
do the exchange route with one of the places I see advertised in
Hemmings or JWO ("Booster" Dewey is one that comes to mind) and get
the correct cad-plated one. When you see one of these in person you'll
know why.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 09:34:21 -0500
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Subject: Re: PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale

>Prior to the offering of the grid type defrosters - ask Andy Green about
>them

Those started in the late '60's... circa 1969...

>- GM offered the glower type defrosters in nearly every car starting
>around 1960.

*gack*  I think that's "blower", unless you get the wires backwards.  :-)

>You should notice an opening in the metal of your rear deck to
>receive this accessory.

About the size of a 6x9 speaker cutout, though some shape other than
the speaker's oval outline. Some cars have two smaller holes instead
of one big one, for intake and exhaust when the design does not allow
intake from the trunk area.

>Installation is simple except for some dashes
>requiring disassembly to install the switches.

Speaking of which, I have about six NOS dealer kits to retrofit
blower defoggers in mid-'70's era Olds Omega, 88, 98 and Toro,
if there's any interest.

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 08:16:28 -0700
From: Erik Nowacki <enowacki@titan.com>
Subject: Re: TH-350C Rebuild Debate...  Questions...

Thanks Peter.  I'll check with my local transmission guy if he can do a
high perf. street build.

Erik Nowacki
72 Vista Cruiser


>He builds them three ways:
>1-H.D. Stock Rebuild 2-High Performance Street (to525 hp) and
> 3-Full Race (to 750 HP).  Prices are $425,$550 and $900 respectivley.
>
>Just make sure that if you go for one of these, the guy building it  is
>comfortable with these trannys!
>
>........................................ thought this may be good info to
>pass along.....  :-)
>
>==============================================
>Peter Small
>
>'72 442 Conv,             '71 W30/M22,
>'68 427 Vette conv   '71 Supreme [driveway rat]
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 10:19:53 -0500 (CDT)
From: hitson@leadbelt.com
Subject: Re: covt. top problems conclusion

>Thanks to everyone, (there were alot of you), that tried to help with
>my covt. top problems.  Unfortunately, it was in vain.
>
>Here's what happened.
>
>Checked the motor/pump, it was dry and the connections and ground
>looked good.  I checked the fluid level, it was only about 1/2 cup low
>(if that).
>
>The passenger side piston leaks a little.  The drivers side piston,
>which goes up slower, is bone dry.    Also, what's the best place to buy
>covt. parts, (pistons, hoses, etc.), as far as quality and price?  I
>think year one is high priced.
>
>Thanks again for all the suggestions!  If anyone has additional
>comments and/or suggestions about my plans, please let me know!
>
>RC Hellebuyck
>1971 4-4-2 covt.
>
May I try again?

You will probably need to replace lines and cylinders. The best prices I
have seen for them are from Tamraz.

In the meantime, try using some transmission stop leak in the system. It is
no real  fix, but cylinders usually leak from seals drying. Sometimes the
stop leak at least slows the rate of fluid loss - sometimes it doesn't do squat

Roger Hitson

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 11:54:49 -0400
From: "Gregory K M (Kris)" <kgregor4@ford.com>
Subject: Mid 70's Vintage Toronado's

I'm looking for any information on the XSR that had the wraparound
backlight. I recall seeing one with power t-tops and would be interested
in purchasing one if the condition & price are ok.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 12:10:24 -0400
From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: Just addin' my name to the Lansing List!

Pls add my name to the list also.

Todd Morris  Fairfield Okemos   8/20-8/24  71 442


- ---------------------- Forwarded by Todd Morris/Bethesda/IBM on 08-13-97 
11:54
AM ---------------------------

        oldsmobile-owner @ ccn.cs.dal.ca
        08-10-97 12:31 PM
Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ internet

To: oldsmobile @ chebucto.ns.ca @ internet
cc:
Subject: Re: Just addin' my name to the Lansing List!

Doug Thompson    Regent Inn     8-20-97
'67 4-4-2

Doug..'67 4-4-2 (Bimini Blue, modified 455), '67 4-4-2 (white, original
un-restored), '67 4-4-2 Convertable, original un-restored

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 09:14:26 -0700
From: Erik Nowacki <enowacki@titan.com>
Subject: Re: power brake booster ?

>Q. What is the proper color to paint the booster and where can I get
>this paint?  Does this color have a particular name?
>
>RC Hellebuyck
>1971 4-4-2 covt.
>
I can't help you pick the color, but Eastwood probably has the right paint
for it.  You can also pick up the Sears Automotive catalog, which is
IDENTICAL to the eastwood catalog right down to the fax number.  They do
have different 800 numbers, but the calls probably end up in the same
switchboard.  You can also find Eastwood on the web at www.eastwoodco.com.

Good Luck

Erik Nowacki
72 Vista Cruiser

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 12:16:47 -0400
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: RE: power brake booster ?

Brothers have the booster and master cylinder assemblies for $190.   I
don't know if that is a better price that YO or not, I don't have
their catalog at hand. There is a $40 core deposit. It should come
already plated.

If you follow the procedures in the manual it should be an easy job.
You may need someone to help you beed the brakes after you install the
master cylinder.

Since the is a safety issue also if you feel better letting that
"family mechanic" do the job, you may want to go that way. You can
deal with a car that want start, but one that want stop is another
story. Good luck.

Brothers number is 1-800-442-7278.

Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the.....Past



- -----Original Message-----
From:mrhell@m1.sprynet.com [SMTP:mrhell@m1.sprynet.com]
Sent:Tuesday, August 12, 1997 10:21 PM
To:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:power brake booster ?

Well, after taking everyone's suggestions and checking everything I
could think of, I took the car to our family mechanic,(he's good but
always real busy).  He confirmed it.  "Bad brake booster, get another
one", he said.

year one has a booster, unpainted.  So, I have a few more questions
I'd
like help with.

Q. Does anyone know the best, (best regarding an original part and low
price), place to buy a new brake booster?  I've found year one to
always be higher priced, but I do want the correct part.

Q. What is the proper color to paint the booster and where can I get
this paint?  Does this color have a particular name?

Q. I never replaced one of these.  It appears fairly easy, should I
attempt it myself?  I do have a shop manual.

The car in question is a 1971 4-4-2, 455 w/ac, with front disc and
rear
drum brakes.

As always, thanks for all the help and suggestions!  This network is a
God send!

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 12:28:32 -0400
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: Cars for Sale

Classifieds2000 sent the following:


1967 Oldsmobile 442, 89K miles, $4,000, Martinez, California
Mail: fthatdisk@jps.net
1958 Oldsmobile super88 2dr HT, 53K miles, $4,750, trenton, New Jersey
Day: (609) 392-6043  Mail: buddiespub@webtv.net
1961 Oldsmobile 88 Cruiser, 40K miles, $12,500, San Carlos, California
Day: (650) 568-8559  Eve: (650) 593-8274
To view the complete ads, go to:
http://www.classifieds2000.com/cgi-cls/Search.exe?135890+10-AUG-97

and Dr. Bob may want to check this one out:
1968 Oldsmobile Cutlass, 74K miles, $6,000, Providence, Rhode Island
Day: (401) 421-1312  Mail: thezorks@webtv.net
1960 Oldsmobile Ninety-Eight, 120K miles, $14,500, Whitehall, Michigan
Day: (616) 894-7362  Eve: (616) 893-0455  Mail: rackerman@howmet.com
To view the complete ads, go to:
http://www.classifieds2000.com/cgi-cls/Search.exe?135890+11-AUG-97

Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the ...... Past

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 12:37:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: CRuper1@aol.com
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Posting Reminder

In a message dated 97-08-13 01:23:57 EDT, you write:

<<
 Is there anyway for people to try and categorize their postings so I can
 be more selective about the subjects I receive?  A listserv I belong to
 has a rule where you put BASIS: or ALL: or NEWS: or MM: in the subject
 and I can subscribe to these subjects only.  I am looking for items
 related to cars for sale (FS:) or parts (PARTS:) not events or stories
 (EVENTS:) (STORIES:).  I am considering unsubscribing beacuse I can't
 handle the volume of stuff I get.

 Thanks for your consideration >>

Greg,
For the most part, I think alot of people are doing this now (at least in the
"For Sale" area).  It'd be a little too hard to put down one topic
(subject/whatever, etc...) to a message.  We have too many items that cross
over in too many areas.

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 09:40:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: delta 88s (Distributors)

> >BTW: I remember that one of the drawbacks (at least sometimes) with
an
> >HEI conversion is that the HEI distributor is bigger than the
points kind
> >and interferes with the fit of the air cleaner. I'm surprised that I
> >don't remember anyone mentioning that later Rocket V-8s (at least
the one
> >in my '78) have an air cleaner with an offset hole. The effect is
to move
> >the whole assembly forward on the engine, presumably to allow
clearance
> >for the HEI. I would have thought that these would be hot items to
have
> >for those who did the conversion, and that someone would have
mentioned
> >it before this. If they did, I don't recall it but thought it would
be
> >useful for folks here to know.
>
> Interesting, Greg.  I hadnt heard of the offset air cleaner pan
before.  I
> always
> assumed the HEI cars came with a "pre-dented" air cleaner from the
factory.
> :-)
>
> In my case it probably wouldnt work though, as the offset pan would
shift the
> OAI assembly such that it didnt seal to the  hole in the hood.  Plus
the
> snorkle
> inlet is probably smaller on a Delta's pan.
>
> As for me, I just bought a spare distributor and a Pertronix unit to
play
> with last
> weekend.  I'll probably put it on in the fall or winter.
>
> -Jeff
>
> jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com
>
> 1970 442 4 -speed
>
******************************************
Hey folks, wait! On a big block with its taller deck height you CAN
run an HEI and the stock air cleaner, even the OAI version. On a small
block you can't unless you either use the offset base or dent the
backside of the original unit. OR, space the carb or air cleaner up 1"

===
John Pajak
Lexington Park, Maryland

JSPajak@rocketmail.com



_____________________________________________________________________
Sent by RocketMail. Get your free e-mail at http://www.rocketmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 10:03:03 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@nfs.aisf.com>
Subject: Re: power brake booster ?

Etzel, Bobby wrote:
>
> If you follow the procedures in the manual it should be an easy job.
> You may need someone to help you beed the brakes after you install the

Hey now that is a good use of bees!  How to you get them into the
system?
:-) :-)  (I must be bored at work!)


Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 10:04:45 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: Mid 70's Vintage Toronado's

Gregory K M (Kris) wrote:
>
> I'm looking for any information on the XSR that had the wraparound
> backlight. I recall seeing one with power t-tops and would be interested
> in purchasing one if the condition & price are ok.

You're just a few months too late.  There was one for sale here in
Spokane a while back.  I thought the price was too high, but I don't
remember what it was exactly.  Anyhow it disappeared from the market so
either someone paid the outrageous price or the seller gave up.  I've
seen it driving around town once too, I'd rate it mid to low ª2
condition.  What a strange rear window. . .

If you're really interested, you might check the olds list archives from
around this spring.  I'm pretty sure I posted a copy of the ad here.

I don't think the power T-tops ever made it to production, they were
just on the prototype.  I think I read this on the Toro home page, you
might want to check there.  Anyhow, I have a hard time visualizing
exactly what power T-tops would do!  How are they powered?  I mean where
do they go when you hit the button??  Is there enough roof left for them
to slide backwards?  Do they stick up gull-wing style?  Do they come
down so you have to talk to your passenger through 2 pieces of glass?
Do they just pop off ejection-seat style and crash into the Rustang
following you?!?

Tom Lentz
tlentz@ior.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 12:14:01 -0500
From: DKTBAT@webtv.net (doug thompson)
Subject: Re: TH-350C Rebuild Debate...  Questions...

 I just put a 200-4R in my '67 4-4-2,  and so far very happy. Still
getting used to the new shift points and characteristics of the OD with
a big cam. I did wire in a toggle switch for the lock-up TC. My fears of
its strength was tested when a young driver w a late mustang 5.0 5spd
wouldn't quit pestering me. I like that low first gear, upshift 1-2 came
at 5500rpm automaticaly. Noe the road test to Lansing, runs 2200rpm at
75mph, very nice. see ya there!

Doug..'67 4-4-2 (Bimini Blue, modified 455), '67 4-4-2 (white, original
un-restored), '67 4-4-2 Convertable, original un-restored

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 13:16:19 -0400
From: "Terry E Teague" <dawgs@conninc.com>
Subject: Re: PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale

Andrew I would be interested in a kit to fit a 68 Delta Custom if you
have a line on one..I would need the whole thing,switch,wiring etc

Terry Teague
68 Delta Custom
dawgs@conninc.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 13:22:19 -0400
From: Cliff McFarlane <mcfrlan@bconnex.net>
Subject: Re: Lansing list

> UPDATING.........
>  _______________________________________________________________________
> >     NAME                 HOTEL               DATE       CAR           >
====                 =====               ====       === > > Adams, Tom
Kellogg Center       8/21-24   66 Delta conv > > Allen, Joseph        
Cottenwood
CG        8/20-24   57 88 J/2 conv > > Beaulieu, Greg       Hampton Inn
8/18-23   none > > Bicker, Steve        Quailty Suites       8/19-24   67 442 >
> Blankenship, Mike    Red Roof Inn         8/20-24   none > > Bradley,
Terry&Barb  Regent Inn           8/20-24   71Cutlass 70W-30 > > Brown, David
Best Western-Midway  8/19-24   77 Delta 88 > > Chermack, Jim        Marriot 
East
8/18-25   67 442 W-30 > > Cornea, Mark         Clubhouse Inn        8/19-24   
70
442 W-30 > > Cremean, Matt        Blissfiend, MI       8/21      73 Cutlass S >
> Easton, Jeff         Fairfield Okemos     8/20-22   70 442 > > Forsee, Ron
Hampton Inn          8/20-24   65 442 > > Gillespie, Mick      Battle Creek Inn
8/21-23   69 Cutlass conv > > Glista, Nikki        Holiday Inn West     8/19-24
68 Cutlass conv > > Glista, Richard      Holiday Inn West     8/19-24   68 442 
>
> Gulino, Dan          Sleep Inn            8/20-24   75 Delta 88 conv > > 
Hall,
Mike           Holiday Inn West     8/21-24   72 Cutlass S > > Handren,
Bob&Cheryl  Cottenwood CG        8/20-24   67 442 W-30 > > Harkema, Doug
Holt, MI             all       70 Supreme conv > > Hartlieb, Paul       Marriot
East         8/19-23   67 98 > > Hendley, Daren       Ramada
8/20-24   none > > Hirtle, Don          Hampton              8/18-23   none > >
Hoopingarner, Kevin  Cottonwood CG        8/19-24   none > > Horton, Everett
Sheraton             8/19-23   61 Starfire conv > > Horton, Gordon
Sheraton             8/19-23   71 Supreme conv > > Johnson, Ernie       Ramada
8/20-24   67 442 > > Kitchner, Doug       Holiday Inn West     8/19-24   70
Supreme conv > > Kobinsky, Jeff&Patti Days Inn             8/20-22   86 98 > >
Lamb, Aaron          Clubhouse Inn        8/20-23   72 Cutlass > > Loban, John
Clubhouse Inn        8/20-24   63 Starfire conv > > McFarlane, Cliff     
Holiday
Inn West     8/19-24   63 Starfire > > McKeague, Jim        Holiday Inn South
8/20-23   70 Cutlass W-31 > > Melen, Ulyess        Clubhouse Inn        8/20-23
71 Cutlass S > > Morris, Todd         Fairfield Okemos     8/20-24   71 442 > >
Nicholson, Brad      Best Western         8/19-24   94 LSS > > O'Connor, Peg
Holiday Inn West     8/19-24   none > > Penny, Steve         Hampton
8/18-23   none > > Prince, Mark         Clubhouse Inn        8/19-24   72 442
W-30 > > Prince, Michael      Clubhouse Inn        8/20-23   70 Cutlass S > >
Pritchett, Bill      Radisson             8/20-23   61 98 > > Richmond, John
FairField Inn West   8/22-23   72 442 > > Roberts, Rick        Clubhouse Inn
8/22      72 H/O > > Ruper, Chris         Best Western-Midway  8/19-24   none >
> Senko, Drew          Sheraton             8/20-23   71 Supreme conv > >
Schinkel, Rob        Red Roof Inn         8/21-22   none > > Smetana, Chris
BW Govenors          8/20-24   possibly a 72 S > > Smith, Brian         Hampton
8/18-23   none > > Smith, Bryce         Days Inn             8/18-23   none > >
Soball, Dave         Motel 6 Central      8/20-24   55 98 > > Stewart, Sandy
Hampton              8/18-23   none > > Thomas, Robert       Clubhoue Inn
8/22      69 442 W-32 > > Thompson, Doug       Regent Inn           8/20      
67
442 > > Westlake, Steve      Holiday Inn West     8/19-24   63 98 > > Williams,
Dan        Hampton Inn          8/20-24   68 442 conv > > Williams, Danny
Red Roof Inn         8/20-24   none > > Wilson, Jim          none
8/19-24   64 Starfire > > Wyatt, Dave          BW Govenors          8/20-24   
70
442 > > _______________________________________________________________________

LIST TOTAL = 57 People

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 12:41:20 -0500
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Subject: Re: PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale

>Andrew I would be interested in a kit to fit a 68 Delta Custom if you
>have a line on one..I would need the whole thing,switch,wiring etc

I've already answered Terry in email. But does anyone here know what
the correct part number for the '68 defogger kit would be?

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 13:59:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: BobH592058@aol.com
Subject: '67 Hurst Hairy Olds

Hi Mark!

I lived through that era, own a  '67 and have the same model which I use at
shows (never opened box).  My '67 is modified and the HHO sure was too so I
feel it fits the theme.

Did you know there was a '66 version?  Can't remember the driver's name but
he had to bail out at something like 60mph when a blower explosion caused a
fire.  The model year was changing so they re-did the car in the only
slightly different '67 sheet metal.

It was an awesome sight. Smoke billowing from all four hides.  I don't
remember the times but the car wasn't slow by 60's standards.

My favorite memory is from '67 when I saw the car run at a Georgia drag strip
(Warner-Robbins I think).  Not only was the HHO there but so was Linda
Vaughan.  She would pose for a picture with any fan who desired one.  This
one fellow walks up to her; he has the biggest beer belly/gut you could
imagine.  As the guy taking the picture is ready to shoot, he turned Linda
sideways so his gut fit right under lovely protrusions and says "Baby, we
were made for each other!"  Hilarious.  And Linda, as always and to this day
a real sport about it,  laughed as hard as anybody there.

Bob Handren        OCA/OCFª 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 14:01:28 -0400 (EDT)
From: BobH592058@aol.com
Subject: Re: automatic car watch

<<He has what is self described as an  .  He believes the
watch is from a 40's or 50's Oldsmobile.  It mounts in one of the spokes of
the steering wheel and is self wound as the steering wheel is turned.  The
diamater is ~2.5 in. with a silver face and all gold lettering.  The watch
appears to have been manufactured by a swiss company by the name of MAAR.
The MAAR logo forms a crown and is on both the front and back of the watch.
The hands are teal blue and the protective facing appears to be plastic.
(May/may not have been replaced)   >>

Yup, there was such an option.  I worked at a Caddy/Olds dealer the summer of
'57 and saw several including one on a dealer mechanic's 88. As I recall it
worked the same as the selfwinding watches of that era.  Turning the wheel
caused a weight to rotate which would wind the watch as you drove.  I thought
it was the coolest option I'd seen as a 17 year old!

I have no idea what one is worth but if it works I would expect a bit!

Bob Handren        OCA/OCFª 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 13:58:30 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: O.A.I. letters painted?

>
> On the top section of the OAI air cleaner assembly, (in front of the
> "flapper"), the molded plastic has "OLDSMOBILE" on it.
>
> Q.  Originally, back in 1970-1972, were these letters painted white
> from the factory?

Hmmmm.....I've seen a grunch of OAI flapper lids in my time, and only 2
that I can remember with painted letters.  One was white, the other the
color red of the car it was on.  I think the owners did this.  I have
the factory lid with mine and no remnants whatsoever of any paint.   I
got a strong suspicion it was only done for the ads so it was easier to
read the letters.  Ever notice the 71 Olds 442 ads in the brochure?  It
had shallower grilles than they actually came out with.  I believe the
Rallye 350 also was advertised with different type grilles than what
came on them.  If you want yours painted, I can't see anything wrong
with it.  It's yours.

.02 cents
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 15:02:02 -0300
From: "My Self" <skychicken@hotmail.com>
Subject: Need List!

Would someone please send me a list of Lansing Hotels for the centennial
show next week?  I have a 1969 cutlass holiday coupe.  Let me know
please.....

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 14:12:00 EDT
From: jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
Subject: (Event): All-Oldsmobile Funshow

For anyone in the St. Louis or Mid-West area:

BRING YOUR OLDSMOBILE....

The next REAL big show that you don't want to miss is the 14th Annual
All-Oldsmobile Funshow.  This year, of course, we are celebrating
Oldsmobile's 100th anniversary.  My wife and I are organizing Archway
Oldsmobile's Annual Funshow this year.  It is a car show/swap meet that is
open to the public and will be held on Sept 7, 1997.   This is a successful
and growing event, and we anticipate the largest one ever for this year.  It
is held at "The Heart of St. Charles Banquet center" parking lot, which is
right next to Highway 70 (30 feet from the highway) and fully visible to
thousands of people driving by on HWY 70.  It is also conveniently located
next to Historic downtown St. Charles Riverfront Landing, and right next
door to the Station Casino-St. Charles (Also one of our proud sponsors).  We
had a good showing last year of old to new Olds.  A total of well over 100
cars were on display.  Some of the highlights were a 1968 H/O, two 1970
W30s, 1983 H/O 15th Anniversary model, 1972 Indy Pace car (all original, and
never restored), 1955 olds, 1949 Olds and a great assortment of 442s and
Cutlasses.  Many trophies were awarded, the '68 H/O took one.
This year we anticipate the largest turnout ever.

We are trying to get as much representation from Oldsmobiles 100 years as
possible, and expect to see representation from the 30's through the 90's.
 I will be providing the Oldies music (I used to work for Jukebox 96 FM here
in St. Louis doing an oldies show, and have been doing mobile DJing since
1982).  You can expect to see a performance by "Jake and Elwood's Rock and
Roll, Rhythm and Blues Review" some time around noon or 1:00pm.   Also, food
and beverages will be available.

Here is the information: (you can see a similar ad in Cars & Parts magazine)


Sept. 7, 1997, 8am-5pm - St. Charles MO - Archway Oldmobile Funshow.  Car
Show/swap meet that is open to the public, and held by The Archway
Oldsmobile Club of St. Louis from 8am to 5pm.  Have a unique or classic
Olds?  Come show it!  It is held at "The Heart of St. Charles Banquet
center" parking lot right at HWY 70 and 5th street.  Prizes, and trophies
given away in 16 categories.  Oldies music, also featuring Blues Brothers
performance, arriving in '74 Dodge Monaco Bluesmobile replica.  For more
information call John Palmberger (314)-355-4864

We are welcoming any and all Oldsmobiles to participate.  Your car does not
have to be show quality to show it.  By doing this, we should have a great
representation of all of Oldsmobiles different models, makes and years.  You
don't have to enter your Olds in the competition to show it.  but, if you
wish to compete in one of the 16 categories, the entry fee is only $10.00.

Please let me know if you need more specific directions, and I will be glad
to provide them.

ps.  I will have the '68 Cutlass Supreme there, and the '69 4-4-2.
  .
/ | \
| | |
|/|\|
\ | /
Jeff Zeilmann
1605 Elizabeth Ellen Ct.
St. Peters, MO 63376-6542

Home Phone ª: (314) 939-4613
Daytime ª: (314) 891-7915
SMTP:jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
'68 Cutlass Supreme, '69 Cutlass S Convertible (and the NEW '69 4-4-2)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 11:19:05 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@nfs.aisf.com>
Subject: Re: Power T-tops

With regards to the power T-tops mentioned on the prototype Toro, my
office co-worker suggested that maybe a tamboured effect would work.
The funny thing is that the car would look somewhat like a camel!

Oh well.....


Chris Sparks
(I am bored today with work)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 14:17:59 -0400
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: RE: power brake booster ?

Here is the missing ( l ).

Bobby

- -----Original Message-----
From:Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) [SMTP:sparks@nfs.aisf.com]
Sent:Wednesday, August 13, 1997 1:03 PM
To:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:Re: power brake booster ?

Etzel, Bobby wrote:
>
> If you follow the procedures in the manual it should be an easy job.
> You may need someone to help you beed the brakes after you install the

Hey now that is a good use of bees!  How to you get them into the
system?
:-) :-)  (I must be bored at work!)


Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 14:33:36 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Intro & Question

> Anyway, the VC has come down with a thorny little problem for which I'm 
hoping
> to find some experienced assistance.  The heater/AC blower fan has gone out.
> That is, switching on the heat or AC function results in something of an
> electrical load or pull, but nothing happens at any blower level.

One thing you can do simply, is to unhook the fan and hook a volt/ohm
tester in the circuit in place of the fan.  Turn the switch on and check
the circuit voltage.  If you still have a power draw, then there
probably is something wrong with the wiring, probably a short
somewhere.  Another thing to check is the resistance of the fan
windings.  You should check to see if you have very low or non-existant
resistance.  I'm not an electrician, so I'm not sure where the "cutoff"
point is for low ohms, so you may have to consult a tech manual for it.
Not a lot of info at all about the rear defogger in my 69 manual.  Just
a wiring diagram and mounting picture.

2 cents again,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 14:57:02 -0500
From: Chris Hollingsworth <hollings@midcoast.com>
Subject: 70 442 Conv - What to do?

Ok, here's the deal, I just picked up a 70 442 Conv. that is in pretty
good shape, but will need some restoration (the engine skips and the
rear quarters are rusted behind the wheels).  oh, btw I picked it up for
$900.
Here's the problem.  I wan't to restore it and start brining it to
show's, but I can't decide whether I should:
1) restore it to it's original specs as bought, or
2) replicate the 70 442 Conv. Indy Pace Car?
On the one hand, I would have an original car, but on the other hand I
would have an excellent replica of the 70 Indy Pace care that would
shurly turn heads, but as stated, it would be a replica, not original.
Which way do people think I should go???

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 17:03:36 -0300
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@orbital.com>
Subject: Power T-tops and Toro F/S

     The power T-tops actually slid towards the center of the car and
     nested one on top of the other under the center "T" bar.  Naturally,
     the center bar was significantly wider than that in a normal T-top
     car.

     A few months ago I was killing time in a Barnes and Noble in Phoenix
     and came across a magazine (Classic Car, perhaps) with a letter about
     the XSR prototype.  The letter included a picture of the car, which
     appeared to be languishing in a field.  The car was for sale (or might
     have just been sold - sorry, I don't remember).

     While I'm on Toros, yesterday I followed a late model Toro with a for
     sale sign in the back window.  The car is here in Northern VA, but has
     Michigan plates.  This was one of the smaller, V-6 powered models -
     sorry, I don't know the exact year, but it was not the very last model
     but the one just before that.  It's the one that looks like a larger
     version of the FWD Calais.  (Look, sorry to offend any of the FWD
     crowd, but I just don't know my Toros.  This one wouldn't even make a
     good engine donor.)  :-)  Anyway, the car was blue and looked to be in
     decent shape.  Asking price was $1500.  Phone number is 455-0059
     (presumably 703 area code, but it didn't say and the car _did_ have
     Michigan plates).  Usual disclaimers, yadda, yadda...

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 11:39:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: stereo in a convertable?

In a message dated 97-08-13 01:32:01 EDT, you write:

<< by putting speakers in the door panels and back sides,does this hurt the
 value of the car at all?
  >>
To some people this might be a devalued car but I bet the grandkids still
fight over the car.  I have bought and sold way too many cars for way too
many years and for along time "everything was for sale at the right price".
 Have had the 68 for only 7-8 years and I think thats a record.  There is
absolutely no intention what-so-ever to ever sell the car.  When someone
asks me what its worth I can honestly say I dont know, and the only way
 I will find out its value is if its destroyed, or stolen and not recovered,
 God forbid.  I guess Ive learned after many, many years of car "collecting"
that its "To Thine Own Self BeTrue".  I want to enjoy my cars to the
utmost and am no longer concerned with conformity, hope this doesn't
offend anyone.  There are cars that Ive had that have had such collectibilty
that I would not consider altering them in anyway, I have a "very" rare
64 GTO that "must" remain original for historic reasons.  At least thats my
opinion, thank God we all have a right to those, some more than others??

I no longer have a new car that sits in the garage and depreciates and costs
me way more than it is worth.  They newest car I have right now is an 87
T Type.  I will have a 62 Cutlass here shortly that will be a daily next
year,
and this could mean a few thousand less miles a year on the 68.  These
cars are truly art and it is all in the eye of the beholder. LALL. I hate it
when I hear somebody say that a certain brand sucks, its just not their
preference....Ive rambled....I apologize....but thanks...TIM

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 14:53:28 -0500
From: david wyatt <Wyatt_David_L@LILLY.COM>
Subject: Re: 70 442 Conv - What to do?

>1) restore it to it's original specs as bought, or                     >2)
replicate the 70 442 Conv. Indy Pace Car?                           >On the one
hand, I would have an original car, but on the other hand I >would have an
excellent replica of the 70 Indy Pace care that would    >shurly turn heads, 
but
as stated, it would be a replica, not original. >Which way do people think I
should go???

As the owner of a 70 4-4-2 (non W-30), I would lead toward keeping it
original.  There are enough fake pace cars out there as it is.  It is
refreshing to see the cars restored to original and not "upgraded".  Of
course I enjoy the unusual plain versions that are passed over by the
masses.  I would like to think that the original will be worth more than
a fake, but that is not always the case.  As always, it's your car, do
as you will.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 12:48:35 -0700
From: Erik Nowacki <enowacki@titan.com>
Subject: Re: 70 442 Conv - What to do?

>rear quarters are rusted behind the wheels).  oh, btw I picked it up for
>$900.

Where did you find a deal like that??  Looking in my local Trader, the
cheapest Cutlass convertibles are around $5,000, and that's not even a 442.

>Here's the problem.  I wan't to restore it and start brining it to
>show's, but I can't decide whether I should:
>1) restore it to it's original specs as bought, or
>2) replicate the 70 442 Conv. Indy Pace Car?

The best advice I have gotten with respect to restoring/modifying cars is:
Do what would make you happy.

Would it make you happier to have a pace car replica in the garage, or
would you be happier knowing that your 442 convertible was all original?
What kind of carshows will you take it to?  At Pebble Beach, you would lose
points by having a "replica", but at your local monthly swapmeet/carshow
they may not care if it is genuine or not as long as it looks the part.

Just my thoughts (sometimes they are worth $.02, sometimes they aren't).

Erik Nowacki
72 Vista Cruiser

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 13:01:32 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@nfs.aisf.com>
Subject: Re: 70 442 Conv - What to do?

Chris Hollingsworth wrote:
>
> Ok, here's the deal, I just picked up a 70 442 Conv. that is in pretty
> good shape, but will need some restoration (the engine skips and the
> rear quarters are rusted behind the wheels).  oh, btw I picked it up for
> $900.

You can take out the sword now!

> Here's the problem.  I wan't to restore it and start brining it to
> show's, but I can't decide whether I should:
> 1) restore it to it's original specs as bought, or
> 2) replicate the 70 442 Conv. Indy Pace Car?
> On the one hand, I would have an original car, but on the other hand I
> would have an excellent replica of the 70 Indy Pace care that would
> shurly turn heads, but as stated, it would be a replica, not original.
> Which way do people think I should go???

3) Sell it to Chris Sparks :-)

Seriously, I would probably go original, however, it is your car and you
can do whatever you want to it.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 16:04:34 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 70 442 Conv - What to do?

Chris Hollingsworth wrote:
>
> Ok, here's the deal, I just picked up a 70 442 Conv. that is in pretty
> good shape, but will need some restoration
> Here's the problem.  I wan't to restore it and start brining it to
> show's, but I can't decide whether I should:
> 1) restore it to it's original specs as bought, or
> 2) replicate the 70 442 Conv. Indy Pace Car?

Oldsmobile purists say: "DON'T MODIFY"
Hot-rod enthusiasts say: "MORE POWER, MODIFY"
As a freedom of ownership view, I say: "IT'S YOUR CAR! DO WHAT YOU
WANT!"

While I would tend to say don't modify it if it were a RARE car,like a
factory Pace car.  However, it IS rare if you look at it like this:
They don't make them like that anymore, so for every one modified, there
is one less unmolested one out there.

I still believe if you want to make a yard ornament out of it, or drive
it directly off a cliff, that is YOUR choice.  I don't rebuild my
Oldsmobiles by committee vote.  I choose what I think is best for my
restorations, whether modified or stock.  You will get as many opinions
on this as there are computers in the U.S. Trust your instincts, and do
what you think is best in the long run.  If you modify it to where all
you would need to do is repaint it to go back to original colors later
if you want, then that would be a good compromise.  Remember this: if
you have ever replaced ANYTHING on your car, even with a replacement GM
part,then it is no longer original, or can never be again.

First:  What do you want to do with this car?  Show it in unmodified or
modified class?  Race it? Just plain drive around and enjoy it?  If you
don't think any Olds convertible doesn't turn heads, then you haven't
been out of the house lately.  If it is for investment purposes, then
you know what to do.  We all make choices.  Sorry for being vague about
this, but that's exercising MY freedom of choice.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 97 16:30:06 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: 70 442 Conv - What to do?

..Here's the problem.  I wan't to restore it and start brining it to
show's, but I can't decide whether I should:
1) restore it to it's original specs as bought, or
2) replicate the 70 442 Conv. Indy Pace Car?
On the one hand, I would have an original car, but on the other hand I
would have an excellent replica of the 70 Indy Pace care that would
shurly turn heads, but as stated, it would be a replica, not original.
Which way do people think I should go???

     I think this is far too difficult a decision and to avoid mental
     anguish you should sell the car to me.  :-)

     Seriously, it's your car, build it the way you want and enjoy it.  A
     $900 car will never be a concourse restoration without spending
     significantly more money than the car will be worth, so you're much
     better off doing what you want.  The good news here is that your pace
     car replica really only involves paint and decals, so a new paint job
     at a later date will return the car to a more original state.

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 17:39:34 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: 70 442 Conv - What to do?

On Wed, 13 Aug 1997, Mike Rothe wrote:
> Oldsmobile purists say: "DON'T MODIFY"
> Hot-rod enthusiasts say: "MORE POWER, MODIFY"
> As a freedom of ownership view, I say: "IT'S YOUR CAR! DO WHAT YOU
> WANT!"

I think this is excellent advice.

Since you asked, though, here's my $0.02: the biggest thing against
building the replica is the following scenario, which I'm sure would be
repeated dozens of times:

"Hey, cool car!! An Indy Pace Car, huh? Wow, they must be real rare! How
many of those did they make anyway? Was this one at Indy?"

"Well, um...."

You see the dilemma? You either don't admit that it's a replica, in which
case you either feel permanently lousy for lying or start to believe it's
real yourself, or you end up always having to explain it's not the real
thing.

An original-looking '70 4-4-2 ragtop will be a real head-turner with the
right selection of paint. My preference is to go that way. But do
whatever you want, it's your car.


Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 15:41:47 -0500
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Subject: Re: 70 442 Conv - What to do?

>They don't make them like that anymore, so for every one modified, there
>is one less unmolested one out there.

This is the heart of the matter. I'd vote for keeping it original.
If I'm looking to buy an Indy Pace Car, I'm probably not going to
buy one that I know is fake, since I'll be having endless discussions
with onlookers at later shows who are loudly announcing it's a fake.
And as far as building a fake one for my own use only, well, I don't
know how much personal enjoyment I'd get since I _know_ it's a fake.

>Remember this: if
>you have ever replaced ANYTHING on your car, even with a replacement GM
>part,then it is no longer original, or can never be again.

While that may be true for George Washington's axe, I don't agree that
installing NOS parts as replacements makes the car any less original. But
if you install _different_ NOS parts to (re)produce a different model,
you're faking (in the best possible way), not restoring.

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 04:59:58 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: 70 442 Conv - What to do?

In my opinion, do it stock!  It should be worth more in future years.

Clone cars really get under my skin, but to each their own.  It's your
car not mine.  This is just my opinion.  Good luck with whatever you
decide to do.

Hey, can you really go wrong restoring one of the finest cars made?

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 05:02:22 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: covt. top problems conclusion

>You will probably need to replace lines and cylinders. The best prices I
>have seen for them are from Tamraz.>

where is this Tamraz place?  Got the phone number?

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 16:24:41 -0500 (CDT)
From: Paul Brillhart <u17058@uicvm.uic.edu>
Subject: Re: covt. top problems conclusion

At 05:02 AM 8/13/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>You will probably need to replace lines and cylinders. The best prices I
>>have seen for them are from Tamraz.>
>
>where is this Tamraz place?  Got the phone number?
>
>RC Hellebuyck
>1971 4-4-2 covt.
>
>


  They are in Napperville, IL.  Be careful though, I've heard more bad than
good from people on this list who have dealt with them.  Good Luck.


  Paul Brillhart

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 18:14:21 -0400
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: Re: covt. top problems conclusion

Don't laugh, But I bought my cylinders and hose from JCWhitney. They
are not original, but fit and function were great.

The General

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 14:58:56 pdt
From: "Dal Allan" <Dal_Allan@mcimail.com>
Subject: Squealing_fans

My memory was jogged by this response to the Intro & Question thread:

> IMHO, it may well be the power or ground connections; when a blower
> motor goes bad it usually makes a colossal squealing fuss for some
> time beforehand, but a bad power or ground will simply die one day.

The fans in both my 1967 Cutlass and 1972 Gran Sport have decided to go
south on me.

 - the Cutlass kinda 'whimpers' at low speeds, but goes away after the fan
   is turned up on high for a while.
 - the GS has a high pitched squeal when the ignition is turned on. After it
   is turned up to high, the noise increases and then after a few minutes
   fades away and the speed can be lowered. Sometimes the squeal will come
   back but a quick burst on high will cure it again.

I had resigned myself to having to remove the fenders and going in there and
replacing the fans some day soon but was recently told of an alternative.

     Spray WD40 into the air plenum while the fan is on high and the
     lubricant will be drawn in to quiet the fan.

This does not seem reasonable.

 - I have never taken a heater/AC unit apart but presumably the fan bearings
   are sealed, because this is a high dust zone and open bearings would not
   have lasted this long.
 - If the bearings are open, the fan rotation would tend to blow WD40 away
   from the bearings rather than suck it into them, so all I can see this
   accomplishing is to coat the upholstery with a film of WD40.

Does anybody have any practical experience with this 'trick'?


Dal

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 19:49:28 -0400 (EDT)
From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Subject: 86 442 for sale

  Got a call from someone tday I met a our spring dustoff show who has a real
clean 86 442. He wants to sell it.
   28,500 miles
   Grey/grey
   Garage kept
   His name is  Walter and the car is in Attleboro, Mass 1-508-226-3479.

    If anyone has interest please call him or e-mail me privatly and I will
help anyway I can. I have no interest or stake in this deal.


Everett  OCAª 1961

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 19:50:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Subject: ROOMS IN LANSING

      My friend Fred Allard is unable to go to Lansing for the Cent
celebration because of a job change. He has a room available in the Ramada
Inn which is in the north side of the city.
      Some one out there must know someone who can use his room. Please call
him at 1-401-246-0570 or e-mail him at Fredall@AOL.COM and he will be glad to
help.

Everett OCAª 1961

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 18:46:06 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale

 Terry,

Thanks for asking about Andy Green.  That is a wide open invitation to tell
all I know about one notorious list member.  I want you to know that I am
going to resist telling all & just say that he is very good at electronics.
Installing grid type rear defrosters & applying decals to auto bodies is a
specialty.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama





>Bill thanks for the info but who is Andy Green and how do I get in touch
>with him .......I am still quite new to this list. Thanks Terry
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 20:06:48 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: accomodations in Lansing

Any folks staying at say, Battle Creek because Lansing is full... just a
thought... dealers rent cars and sell cars, right? Maybe call an apt. ad or
two, if the place is empty, they just might agree to a weekly rental for less
than a hotel, which you can't get anyhow. Buy some cheap sleeping bags if the
place has no beds & have at it. A bathroom & a place to crash. Wonder if it's
legal to rent a room for a week?

- --
Chris  B. Witt
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 19:16:32 -0400
From: taxlady@sbccom.com (Sieglinde Kuzava)
Subject: Re: tire size question

True, 245/60/14 do look REAL good on the back of my 78 Cutlass.  However,
because of the difference in rim width between front and back (I bought
mine used as a set so didn't really have a choice), I run 215/70/14 front.
Turns heads anyhow!

- ----------
> From: uknowme <uknowme@mail.botanybay.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: tire size question
> Date: Monday, August 11, 1997 1:07 PM
>
> > I've seen 235/60/14, but they look too short for me in those HUGE Olds
> > wheelwells.  Why wouldn't you want
> > to run 245/60's?
> >
> > -greg
>
> I had 245/60/14 up front but found that all streets have potholes, the
> tires were getting marked so I switched to 235 up front and do agree 245
> looked better but I feel safer with the 235, the 245 look dam good on
> the back!!!
>
> Tim
> 81 Cutlass Supreme (breaking it in)
> 80 MusHtang (winter Beater)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 20:27:07 -0400 (EDT)
From: BMAN6771@aol.com
Subject: Re: stereo in a convertable?

tim, thanks!! because of your little story i've decided that i should enjoy
the car and not worry so much about the value. so i'm gonna go ahead and put
the darn spekers in the door panels and enjoy the car for what it is.
thanks!!!!

brent
1967 cutlass convertible

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 15:35:54 -0500
From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Subject: Re: O.A.I. letters painted?

Mike Rothe wrote:
>
> >
> > On the top section of the OAI air cleaner assembly, (in front of the
> > "flapper"), the molded plastic has "OLDSMOBILE" on it.
> >
> > Q.  Originally, back in 1970-1972, were these letters painted white
> > from the factory?
>
> Hmmmm.....I've seen a grunch of OAI flapper lids in my time, and only 2
> that I can remember with painted letters.  One was white, the other the
> color red of the car it was on.  I think the owners did this.  I have
> the factory lid with mine and no remnants whatsoever of any paint.

Out of the three factory ram air cars I own, the most original of the
batch has raised white letters.

'70 4-4-2 The Experience
'70 4-4-2 W-30
'70 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 21:03:47 -0400
From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
Subject: 69 tailight housings

I want to upgrade my tailight housings on my 69 442 this fall and am
looking for housings with vg chrome.  If you Olds fans have spares, let
me know.  Wayne

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 21:16:23 -0400
From: "Terry E Teague" <dawgs@conninc.com>
Subject: 68 OLDS 455

Ok list lets see what ya'll know about 455's. I have one in my car and
also have another one and I really don't know squat about them. I would
like to know where and what the numbers on the blocks and heads mean. If
anyone can help and I am sure by the class of this list that someone can
I would really appreciate it.   thanks Terry.

BTW is there anyone in the southern states like NC? It would seem that
most of you are northern.




Terry Teague 68 Delta Custom
dawgs@conninc.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 20:44:37 -0500
From: "John M. Loban" <cyberpsych@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Mid 70's Vintage Toronado's

Gregory K M (Kris) wrote:>
> I'm looking for any information on the XSR that had the wraparound
> backlight. I recall seeing one with power t-tops and would be interested
> in purchasing one if the condition & price are ok


The XSR Tornado with the wrap around rear window was made in 77 and 78.
A prototype was made with sliding T-bar roof panels one sliding over the
other in the wide middle roof section.  The prototype I believe is being
restored and may be ready for Lansing.  I read somewhere that Doug
Kitchner (starfire Chapter VP-OCA) was looking for parts for it and
helping in the restoration. I have sales brochures for both years and
the only option is a moon roof with mirror tinting.  I guess the
engineers could't get the power T-bar to operate properly or reliably
should I say.  The cars are really fun to drive - the whole length of a
Geo metro will fit between the steering wheel and front bumper.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 20:40:28 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: 68 OLDS 455

 Does Southern, Indiana count?  Actually, I live here now but I'm from as
south as you can get in Canada, so I do consider myself a "southerner" <G>.
My Cutlass is from Lansing so I guess it's a Northerner.

Mick Gillespie, Columbus, Indiana
69 Cutlass S convertible
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

- -----Original Message-----
From: Terry E Teague <dawgs@conninc.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, August 13, 1997 8:19 PM
Subject: 68 OLDS 455



Ok list lets see what ya'll know about 455's. I have one in my car and
also have another one and I really don't know squat about them. I would
like to know where and what the numbers on the blocks and heads mean. If
anyone can help and I am sure by the class of this list that someone can
I would really appreciate it.   thanks Terry.

BTW is there anyone in the southern states like NC? It would seem that
most of you are northern.




Terry Teague 68 Delta Custom
dawgs@conninc.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 21:46:27 -0400
From: dk0009@epfl2.epflbalto.org (Douglas Kitchener)
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Power T-tops and Toro F/S]

> Here's another one, hope I'm the only one forwarding these...
>
> Paul Hartlieb

Yes, and thanks!

> From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@orbital.com>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Power T-tops and Toro F/S

>      The power T-tops actually slid towards the center of the car and
>      nested one on top of the other under the center "T" bar.  Naturally,
>      the center bar was significantly wider than that in a normal T-top
>      car.
>
>      A few months ago I was killing time in a Barnes and Noble in Phoenix
>      and came across a magazine (Classic Car, perhaps) with a letter about
>      the XSR prototype.  The letter included a picture of the car, which
>      appeared to be languishing in a field.  The car was for sale (or might
>      have just been sold - sorry, I don't remember).

The magazine was _Collectible Automobile_, I wrote the letter.  The car had 
been
 advertised in the Washington Post in 1994, I believe, and Fred Nissen of
Alexandria saw the ad.  He told Don Ross of Southbury CT about it and Don 
bought
 it.  Don, Fred and I are all OCA and Toronado chapter members.  Car was
restored by Ron Miller in Bedford PA, Congressional Olds in Rockville MD, and
Fred and myself, it's currently on display in the RE Olds Museum and will be
there thru the Centennial.  For the full story, see Greg Kalkhoff's Toronado
FAQ Page at www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/torofaqs.htm  Click on "Second Generation"
and "'77 XSR".  This car was a prototype and is the only one built.  It was to
be destroyed, but was sold to American Sunroof, who did the conversion.

Paul Hartlieb forwarded this to me; please cc me on any comments as I'm not on
the list!  Thanks!

Doug Kitchener
dk0009@mail.pratt.lib.md.us

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 21:02:08 -0500
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: Squealing_fans

>      Spray WD40 into the air plenum while the fan is on high and the
>      lubricant will be drawn in to quiet the fan.
>
> This does not seem reasonable.
>
>  - I have never taken a heater/AC unit apart but presumably the fan
bearings
>    are sealed, because this is a high dust zone and open bearings would
not
>    have lasted this long.
>  - If the bearings are open, the fan rotation would tend to blow WD40
away
>    from the bearings rather than suck it into them, so all I can see this

>    accomplishing is to coat the upholstery with a film of WD40.
>
> Does anybody have any practical experience with this 'trick'?
>
>
> Dal
First you need to find out what is squealing. The motor or the squirrel
cage? If it is the motor then more than likely it will need replaced. If I
remember right there is a tube that feeds air from the blower plenum to the
motor you might try (sparingly) to spay WD-40 in the motor there. If it is
the squirrel cage then spaying WD-40 on the intake side of the blower might
help. More than likely if the squirrel cage is squealing it is because the
cage is loose which means you will probably have to pull the motor to
tighten it. If I had to pull the fender to tighten the squirrel cage I
would go ahead and replace the blower motor while I was at it. Knowing my
luck 2 weeks later the motor would go out.

Daren

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª798
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