
oldsmobile-digest          Wednesday, 2 July 1997       Volume 01 : Number 742

Re: Heater hoses
Re: Pin stripes, bubbles, and soap.
Re: Questions, questions
Re: 72 S for sale (maybe)
Re: 72 Cutlass S for sale (maybe)
Camshaft for Rocket 350?
Chassis Manuals
Re: Lansing - Where are you?
Re: 72 Cutlass S for sale (maybe)
Re: compressor pulley
Re: Questions, questions
Re: Camshaft for Rocket 350?
Re: Lansing - Where are you?
re:rear_springs
Re: Questions, questions
The 1st cruise
Re: Source for color-coded wires and vacuum lines?
Re: rear_springs
Faux 442 (was Re: Broadcast sheets)
(Fwd) Re: Lansing where are you?
Date:	Wed, 2 Jul 1997 08:44:21 -0700
Re: 72 Cutlass S for sale (maybe)
Re: Faux 442 (was Re: Broadcast sheets)
Various things
Re: tree to ground
Re: Camshaft for Rocket 350?
Re: tree to ground
valve diam.
Re: tree to ground
Wheel/Tire Combo for '65 442...
Re: Lansing where are you?
Re: rear springs replacement: suggestions?
Re: Various things
I don't know jack!! (was:Re: Various things)
Re: Various things
Floor pan prep 
Re: Faux 442 (was Re: Broadcast sheets)
Re[2]: Faux 442 (was Re: Broadcast sheets)
Re: I don't know jack!! (was:Re: Various things)
Re: I don't know jack!! (was:Re: Various things)
Re: Wheel/Tire Combo for '65 442...
Re: rebuilt HEI

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 1997 08:52:58 -0400
Subject: Re: Heater hoses

At 11:33 PM 7/1/97 +0000, you wrote:
>Does anyone know of a source for the heater/AC/defroster paper duct
>hoses that go under the dash? Mine are trashed.
>
>JR

I needed some for my '64, and I found them at the corner auto parts store.
Just give them the diameter you need, and they'll cut the length you want.


Dan

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 1997 09:08:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Pin stripes, bubbles, and soap.

Tom Lentz wrote:
> 
> I'm going to be applying some pinstriping soon, and I was wondering if 
> I can use the soapy water trick mentioned here a while back...

Just get yourself a spray bottle, fill it with water, and add a squirt of 
*liquid dish* soap.  (The idea is that it will feel slippery.)  Spray the 
surface and lay on the decal.  Keep it as wet as necessary so you can 
slide it around until you have it positioned.  Don't worry about getting 
the decal wet if you need to spray on more water.

After you have it in position, remove as much of the excess soapy water 
as you can.  A rubber roller, such as you'd apply ink with (craftshops) 
or used to remove excess water from photo prints, works best.  You want 
to remove as much of the water and any air bubbles from under the decal 
as possible.  You can also use a hair dryer to finish it off.  Any 
remaining bubbles, poke with a pin.

    66 Toro 
The /\   /\ and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 1997 08:03:05 +0000
Subject: Re: Questions, questions

mrada wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Well I just went today to look at the sports mirror on that 68 I am
> thinking of buying.  It seems to have the same set up as my standard
> chrome mirror, with two allen wrench holes.  Do these both use the
> same type of gasket.  If not, then where can I get the right gasket
> for the sports mirror (I am pretty sure it is a 68 sports mirror)?

There was no painted sports mirror until the '70 model.  That was a 1
year only type.  In '71 came the common sports mirror that lasted into
the '80s.  1968 had only a remote or non-remote type available.  The
allen screw went into a bracket the is screwed onto the door.  Under
that bracket is the gasket which is the same on remote & non-remote.
> 
> Another puzzling thing to me is the OLDSMOBILE placard on the trunk
> of the car.  Is it supposed to be shiny chrome looking or was there
> once a color interspersed between the letters?

I think that a silver/aluminum paint was put into the area behind the
letters.
> 
> Let me know.
> 
> Chris Sparks

  I did notice, however, that one of the vacuum
>      accessories (3 prong thing on the engine I believe) had be plugged
>      up.  Maybe that was it.  She claims it passes smog.

That item is used to advance the vacuum if the engine temperature goes
up.  I would hook it back up if I owned it.  They don't hurt anything 7
do help the car.

------------------------------

From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 1997 08:09:48 +0000
Subject: Re: 72 S for sale (maybe)

Steve B. wrote:
> 
> As far as an S model not being worthy of fixing up, Well this is TOTAL
> BS, Come on I mean the difference between my car and a 71 442 is the
> badges on the front fenders....Sure a 442 is worth more but who cares, I
> feel more satisfied knowing that I built my car the way I wanted too and
> it has all the goodies I wanted without those #'s on the front
> fenders....Sure I have thought about selling my car to get the W-30 -
> Hurst/Olds I always wanted but in the long run for me it just doesn't
> add up, for the money I would have to spend to buy one of these cars
> unrestored I could totally do my car over and build it up to BLOW the
> doors off any resto W machine or Hurst/Olds and have plenty of dough
> left over to boot... Besides I don't think I could really enjoy a
> restored W car or Hurst/Olds, I mean, I can take my car up to the track
> and the beach and not have to worry about it all that much...and if
> anything happens to the drivetrain, well who cares, its all non matching
> numbers anyway!! ;-)
> 
> Steve
> 71 Cutlass S 455
> 93 Mustang LX 5.0

Steve,

You have a very unusual car; one w'/no matching numbers.  Most cars are
numbers-matching no matter what the owner had to do to get them that
way.

I acn agree w/you on being happy w/what was once an ordinary car.  They
are not ordinary any more.  Each Oldsmobile of that era was sought after
by everyone who could afford a car.  Used, they were much more sought
after than Chevys or Fords.  The pride of Oldsmobile was built into each
& every one of them.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

P.S.  I saw my first new Olds Cutlass this week on my way home from
Indiana.  Who authorized that thing?  I at first mistook it for my
daughter's Honda.

------------------------------

From: david wyatt <Wyatt_David_L@LILLY.COM>
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 1997 08:20:46 -0500
Subject: Re: 72 Cutlass S for sale (maybe)

Folks,
Let me go a little further out on a limb and you can cut it off if you
wish.  A 72 Cutlass S, in this part of the country, in the shape this
one is in, is NOT a car to dump tons of money into body wise.  The same
car from a non rust state would be little more money initialy, but less
spent overall when fininshed.  It would also be worth more due to having
a solid original body as compared to a rebuilt body.  You can buy a rust
free body complete for less than the cost of replacement body parts for
the S Chris is looking at.  If it was optioned better (big block or a
high perf. small block) it might be a different story.  As I said
before, some of you may think this is a great project car and others may
think it might be good for parts only. I personally think cars like
Chris' 69 W-31 are cool because of the grocery getter apearance with the
Hi-Po drive line.  That is why I still have my plain 4-4-2 and not a
W-30 with the bells and whistles.  And 350 2 barrel engines may run
well, but they are not high performance.

Just my $.02
Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

From: Thomas Martin <marttj@pcmail1.css.mot.com>
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 1997 08:22:11 -0500
Subject: Camshaft for Rocket 350?

I am picking up a Rocket 350 from someone here, 
What cam should I look for with a 85 Cutlass with
2.14 gears?  I hipo cam would not help, is there
any cams that are recommended that people use with
that combination?  This is a daily driver, and not
a race car.

What cam specs do the 350's like?   

Thanks
Tom
85 Cutlass Supreme 307 (soon to be 350)

------------------------------

From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 1997 08:47:20 -0500
Subject: Chassis Manuals

The other day Karl said that his manual didn't have 400 engines listed in
it because it was printed before the 400s were put in 442s. So I was
wondering if they made updated versions of these books during the model
year? If they did I would probable try to find a manual printed after my
car was built. Also how much should I pay for one?

Daren

------------------------------

From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 1997 08:34:48 +0000
Subject: Re: Lansing - Where are you?

Daniel A. Gulino wrote:
> 
> OK, I've got a question:  what do you all know about the Sleep Inn that I
> don't?
> 
> Dan
> 
Dan,

There is nothing wrong at the Sleep Inn.  It is one fine place.  I have
heard the rumor that they will be closed for vacation the last 2 weeks
of August though.  It seems that they will be in downtown Lansing for
some party from the 20th to the 24th.  Alternate rooms have been set up
in the parking lot.   

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: JR <joertexas@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 1997 08:41:36 +0000
Subject: Re: 72 Cutlass S for sale (maybe)

david wyatt wrote:

 That is why I still have my plain 4-4-2 and not a
> W-30 with the bells and whistles.  And 350 2 barrel engines may run
> well, but they are not high performance.

Spoken fron the rarefied heights to us lesser mortals, yet. :-) Okay,
I'll let you go this time. However, I do agree to a point. I wouldn't
consider any 350 'high-performance' unless it has been built up to
beyond stock specs. Even so, I still can run rings around most of the
other stuff on the road today. So, by those standards, even the
non-performance cars do well.

JR

------------------------------

From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 1997 09:02:53 -0500
Subject: Re: compressor pulley

> You're lucky. When mine threw its belt, the thing wrapped around the fan
> and cratered the other two belts as well. Talk about being a hot car
> when I got it off the freeway. It took about 20 minutes and all of the
> cusswords I know to get the alternator belt operational so I could get
> home. Of course, had this been a 90's car, I would have had to have it
> towed, because I would not have been able to repair it without tearing
> the thing apart.
> 
> JR

Actually the serpentine belts on newer vehicles are a lot easier and
quicker to change. The down side is if it breaks you loose every thing. I
found this out last winter when the power steering shaft snapped on my
truck. It had just snowed the day before so I just packed the top of the
engine with snow about every 4-5 miles. It's a 4.3 Chevy motor so I wasn't
to worried about damaging it. Would have been a good excuse to put a 350
Olds in it.

------------------------------

From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 1997 07:12:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Questions, questions

Lloyd W. Culp wrote:

> There was no painted sports mirror until the '70 model.  That was a 1

I never said it was painted.  The mirror is chrome and is not like the
standard mirror (parabolic in shape, oval mirror).  The mirror that is
on the other car doesn't have a parabolic body and has a bigger oval
mirror.
I thought this mirror was called a sport mirror since that is what I 
thought I read in an advertisement for 68 4-4-2s.

> year only type.  In '71 came the common sports mirror that lasted into
> the '80s.  1968 had only a remote or non-remote type available.  The

I assume remote means operated with a little lever inside the car and
correspondingly the non-remote doesn't.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

From: hhzimmerman <hhzimmerman@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 1997 10:27:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Camshaft for Rocket 350?

Thomas Martin wrote:
> 
> I am picking up a Rocket 350 from someone here,
> What cam should I look for with a 85 Cutlass with
> 2.14 gears?  I hipo cam would not help, is there
> any cams that are recommended that people use with
> that combination?  This is a daily driver, and not
> a race car.
> 
> What cam specs do the 350's like?
> 
> Thanks
> Tom
> 85 Cutlass Supreme 307 (soon to be 350)\
I've never even heard of 2.14 gears.  Must be a typo.  Anyway, my daily 
driver cutlass with a 350 uses a Crane 260/272 cam with their springs 
and bleed-down type lifters.  A noticable power increase, but not really 
a hi-po cam at all- I wish I had got a wilder grind, but it should work 
fine in your application.

------------------------------

From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 1997 10:34:17 -0400
Subject: Re: Lansing - Where are you?

At 08:34 AM 7/2/97 +0000, you wrote:

>Dan,
>
>There is nothing wrong at the Sleep Inn.  It is one fine place.  I have
>heard the rumor that they will be closed for vacation the last 2 weeks
>of August though.  It seems that they will be in downtown Lansing for
>some party from the 20th to the 24th.  Alternate rooms have been set up
>in the parking lot.   
>
>Bill Culp
>Decatur, Alabama

Bill,

Aah.  Thanks for clueing me in!  I was wondering why, on my reservation,
instead of the customary "non-smoking" or "smoking" room preference, mine
asks "flap" or "zipper" side, and do I or do I not prefer a floor?

Now I know what they mean!



Dan

------------------------------

From: Dan Lacey <lacey@dsea.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 1997 07:21:24 -0800
Subject: re:rear_springs

>The discussion on rear springs prompts my question on the merits of a type
>that I have seen advertised but have always assumed were a gimmick.
>

No gimmick... I don't know how good JC Whitney springs are or who makes
them... These are called progressively wound springs. It is a standard
upgrade on performance vehicles. I am planning on using these for my front
suspension since I can't put air bags in up front. I will get them from a
reputable spring manufacturer tho (TRW, MOOG, etc.).

I put air bags in the rear with OEM replacement springs. I like the
adjustibility you get with this setup. As for shocks... I was planning on
the KYB shocks but am waiting till I can finish the front suspension (still
can't find polyurethane bushings for my car and Energy Suspensions is
suddenly worried about liability, so they aren't being very helpful).

I have Gabriel gas shocks on the rear (they were free).
They are the Red Ryder things...
Compression damping is barely adequate and the rebound absolutely bites.
If I go over a speed bump at about 10mph, I can almost catch air with the
rear tires. God forbid I hit the gas; the tires break loose and it sounds
like your trying to kill somebody! Now if I get it up to 20mph or higher,
things smooth out... Well... I could have a bit too much air in the rear...

OH, I have a 1965 98...

*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: Dan Lacey <lacey@dsea.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 1997 07:23:24 -0800
Subject: Re: Questions, questions

>Hi all,
>
>Chris Sparks
>68 442
>82 DRB
>
>P.S. I also took a ride with her in the car and for 165000 miles that
>     car is mean....  Still can squeal those tires (probably doesn't
>     have a posi unit).  Her car actually felt like it had more power
>     than mine and didn't even ping (she was using low octane gas even).
>     Makes me wonder.  I did notice, however, that one of the vacuum
>     accessories (3 prong thing on the engine I believe) had be plugged
>     up.  Maybe that was it.  She claims it passes smog.

My '65 98 would lay rubber like a fiend (one wheel only) until I replaced
the rear suspension. Now it only squeals when in a turn...


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: "Douglas J Harkema" <harkema2@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 1997 10:42:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: The 1st cruise

Hi,
    Took my new purchase (70 supreme conv) out on the streets last night.  What
a riot.  I had so many looks.  Pulled into a popular watering hole and had
three nice babe all over it. (Too bad I'm married W/ children).  One Babe
(Sorry I mean nice young lady) owned a 72 S So we exchanged a few Olds stories.
 I told her about this list.  Amazing how many Olds lovers don't know about it.
 Well anyway I just about had the best time of my life in my Oldsmobile.
Thanks R.E.O.

Doug H.
1970 Conv.

------------------------------

From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 1997 08:10:22 -0700
Subject: Re: Source for color-coded wires and vacuum lines?

I've looked for sources on these parts and come up empty. Best I've done is
to pull and modify boneyard harnesses and vacuum lines for my purposes. I
think the repro harness mfrs have them (to be correct for the judges), but
I don't know where they'd find the proper combos of colors/stripes. Sorry
I wasn't much help.

cf


>I'm going to have to redo some of the wiring harness and HVAC control vacuum
>hoses for my '70 SX, and I'd like to maintain the color-coding of these
>items as they came from the factory (makes trouble-shooting according to the
>shop manual much easier). Does anyone know of sources for wires or hoses
>with the correct-color stripes? I know much of the solid-color wire can be
>duplicated with regular wires.
>
>One other thing; if I do need to replace the resistor wire going to my
>points distributor, is there a source for a proper length of resistor wire
>to replace the original, or is it better to use a non-resistor wire, with a
>proper-rated resistor in the circuit?
>
>The majority of the wiring harness is actually pretty good, so I don't want
>to pull the whole thing for a few wires that may be suspect.
>_______________________________________________________
>Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
>Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: PaulP34167@aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 1997 11:16:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: rear_springs

In a message dated 97-07-02 03:41:16 EDT, you write:

> The plan was to put air bags in the back of the wagon (full size 88) to 
>  replace the air shocks, which would let me stiffen the suspension on
demand 
>  and go with more responsive shocks like KYB's Gas-a-Justs. 
>  
>  If the scoop on the variable coils is that they work well, I'll put them
in 
>  the wagon and spend put the airbags into the Cutlass or the GS (probably
the 
> 
>  GS, the big block invites a heavier foot). 
>  
>  Anybody got any experience to share? 

I have no experience with the variable rate springs, but I think the only
advantage would be if you were towing something.

I would recommend the air bags.  I have had them in my Olds for over 10 years
and they perform very well.  I just got a hole in one though and have not
decided how to fix it.

Paul Pate
70 Cutlass S
84 Camaro LG4

------------------------------

From: Ray Moriarty <rmoriarty@blairinc.com>
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 1997 11:33:44 -0400
Subject: Faux 442 (was Re: Broadcast sheets)

At 11:51 PM 7/1/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Snip<
>I'm always interested in the ways that these cars are faked (no, not so I
>can fake a car; rather, so I don't get duped when looking at a car myself);
>what specifically was missing/altered on this particular car to give away
>the fact that it was not a real 442?
>_______________________________________________________
>Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
>Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

The three fakes I have come across have all been cosmetic. All the emblems
were changed from Cutlass to 442 (Hood/Grill, Fenders, Deck Lid and Glove
Box). None of them went as far as changing mechanicals like the lower
control arms. All were non-posi. One owner claimed ignorance. Another owner
said he knew but blamed the fraud on the previous owner. The last owner
argued with me for about a half an hour saying I was trying to cheat HIM.

Luckily, I am enamored with '68s and '70s, so the fact that a car is a 442
can be quickly verified in the VIN. I found Classic Motorbook's "442 and
W-Machine Restoration Guide" to be a good beginning reference. It saved me
from my first fake.

Ray
70 Cutlass conv.
70 442 conv.

------------------------------

From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 1997 11:38:01 -0400
Subject: (Fwd) Re: Lansing where are you?

- --- Forwarded mail from oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

Date: 	Wed, 02 Jul 1997 01:15:12 -0400
From: Cliff McFarlane <mcfrlan@bconnex.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Lansing where are you?
Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

Cliff McFarlane wrote:
>
> This is the updated list, please add to it if you haven't already!
>
> NAME                  HOTEL             DATES      CAR
> ====                  =====             =====      ===
> Beaulieu, Greg      Hampton Inn        8/18-23    none
> Hirtle, Don         Hampton            8/18-23    none
> Penny, Steve        Hampton            8/18-23    none
> Smith, Brian        Hampton            8/18-23    none
> Stewart, Sandy      Hampton            8/18-23    none
> Chermack, Jim       Mariott East       8/18-25    70 SX W-32
> Harkema, Doug       Holt, MI           all        70 Supreme conv.
> Easton, Jeff        Fairfield Okemos   8/20-22    70 442 black
> Hendley, Daren      Ramada             8/20-24    none
> McFarlane, Cliff    Holiday West       8/19-23    63 Starfire
> Westlake, Steve     Holiday West       8/19-23    63 - 98
> Glista, Richard     Holiday West       8/19-23    68 - 442
> Wilson, Jim         none               8/19-23    64 Stafire
> Nicholson, Brad     Best Western       8/19-24    87 442(Me)
> (Donna & Eli)       Midway             8/19-24    94LSS(wife&kid)
> Matt Cremean        Cremean Inn        8/21       73 Supreme
> Dan Gulino          Sleep Inn          8/20-24    75 Delta88 Conv
> Chris Smetana       Best Western Inn   8/20-24    possibly a 72 S
> Dave Wyatt          Best Western Inn   8/20-24    Yellow '70 442
> Dave Soball         Motel 6 Central    8/20-24    Red/White'5598
> Ron Forsee          Hampton Inn        8/20-24    65 442
> Peg O'Connor        Holiday West       8/19-24    none
> Bill Culp           Park Inn Int       8/21-24    62 Jetfire
> Bill Pritchett      Radisson           8/20-23    61 98
> Steve Bicker        Quaility Suits     8/19-24    67 442
> Dan Williams        Hampton Inn        8/20-24    68 442 Conv.
> Tom Adams           Kellogg Center     8/21-24    66 delta Conv.
> John Loban          Clubhouse Inn      8/21-24    63 Starfire Conv.
> Terry&Barb Bradley                                71 Cutlass, 70 W-30
> Danny Williams      Red Roof Inn       8/20-24    none
> Mike Blankenship    Red Roof Inn       8/20-24    none
> Mark Cornea	      Clubhouse Inn	 8/19-24    70 W30 red

Here everybody! I went through all the e-mails and put everyone's name
up on the list. If I missed you (which I hope I didn't do) or if your
name still isn't on the list, please add it to the list.


Cliff Mcfarlane
62 Oldsmobile Starfire Conv.
63 Oldsmobile Starfire Coupe.


- ---End of forwarded mail from oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

------------------------------

From: "Lynda E. Wojt" <talkwojt@aracnet.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 1997 08:44:21 -0700
Subject: Date:	Wed, 2 Jul 1997 08:44:21 -0700

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC86C4.26E0A5E0
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unsubscribe oldsmobile

- ----------
From: 	Greg Beaulieu[SMTP:ab348@chebucto.ns.ca]
Sent: 	Tuesday, July 01, 1997 3:31 PM
To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 	Re: Major Dumbo

On Tue, 1 Jul 1997, Douglas Kitchener wrote:
> For those attempting to get off the Olds list, I just had a message from the 
> guru who knows all about the email system, he has found a problem and will 
> attempt to repair it tomorrow...

Yep... Trent has found the problem. For the moment, unsubscribes will not 
work, but he believes it will be fixed on Wednesday. 

> Canadian subscribers, please excuse my Ugly American ignorance, but there was a 
> national holiday in Canada recently (I thot it was the 29th, right, I hope? in 
> the interest of international relations!)  :) but that slowed things a little, 
> understandably...

Actually it's today, July 1st, Canada Day. Fireworks due to start any second 
now over Halifax harbour...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada




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- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC86C4.26E0A5E0--

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 1997 11:46:46 -0400
Subject: Re: 72 Cutlass S for sale (maybe)

At 08:41 AM 7/2/97 +0000, you wrote:
> That is why I still have my plain 4-4-2 and not a
>> W-30 with the bells and whistles.  And 350 2 barrel engines may run
>> well, but they are not high performance.
>
>Spoken fron the rarefied heights to us lesser mortals, yet. :-) Okay,
>I'll let you go this time. However, I do agree to a point. I wouldn't
>consider any 350 'high-performance' unless it has been built up to
          ^^^
!!! Well, *that* will certainly get some W-31 owners riled up!!!

>beyond stock specs. 

Aside from the W-30 spec motors, the SB Olds motors were more
high-performance than their big-block bretheren, when they were in W-31 or
4-speed trim. The bore/stroke ratio of a 350 is more in line with a
high-performance motor, especially compared with the 455 or later 400
(granted, earlier 400's and the 425's were better suited to higher revs),
and they carried relatively more radical camshafts than the 455's (heck, the
308' W-31 cam is still pretty radical in a 400 or 455).

One other thing: from all the road-tests I've gathered, it seems that a W-31
equipped '68-'69 Cutlass would outrun a similarly-equipped 400ci, non-W30
442 from the same year. Now, I'd love to be proven wrong about this, so I'll
offer to road-test, back-to-back, a pair of those cars; who's willing to
hand over the keys? ;)

>Even so, I still can run rings around most of the
>other stuff on the road today. So, by those standards, even the
>non-performance cars do well.

Mmmm, granted. Except those 3800-powered GM mid-size (small-sized) cars,
which post amazing numbers in the 0-60 and 1/4mi tests (low-mid 15's, in
base or supercharged form). I'm impressed by that, even though they cost as
much as three classic 442's would today.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 1997 11:51:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Faux 442 (was Re: Broadcast sheets)

At 11:33 AM 7/2/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>the fact that it was not a real 442?
>
>The three fakes I have come across have all been cosmetic. All the emblems
>were changed from Cutlass to 442 (Hood/Grill, Fenders, Deck Lid and Glove
>Box). None of them went as far as changing mechanicals like the lower
>control arms. All were non-posi. One owner claimed ignorance. Another owner

Was posi standard in 442's? I was under the assumption that it was
(unfortunately) an option. Did these people bother swapping the
engine/transmissions, or did they just slap a 400 sticker on the original
350? Also, what did they do about the VIN's?
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "LAURA D. STEINKE" <WPODOM1.HORT-FOREST.LSTEINKE@taexgw.tamu.edu>
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 1997 10:58:30 -0500
Subject: Various things

Greets everyone-
   I just wanted to comment on a few emails.  On the subject of touching
up/repainting inside trim with the tester pens, would those be suitable for
the plastic trim (which was metal coated) also?
    All the talk about replacing springs reminded me to ask - can a
replacement car jack be found easily or will the newer ones (like the
jacks that lift the car by it's axel) work just as well.  I desperatly need one
for the car and don't know if an original type would be best or one of the
newer types.  I have the most horrible luck with tires and I'm sure I will
need one sooner than I'd actually want.
     Was it Mike? that was thinking about making a 'Vendor Rating'...I don't
know if it will be of too much help, but I recall that the rec.arts.bodyart
FAQ has a section very similar to what you want to do.  Though I will
agree that actually *rating* the company based on opinion might be
considered slander, but just having various peoples opinions wouldn't be.
Just have each comment with the details, such as "I ordered hood hinges
and they were late getting to me, but it was because they were getting
sandblasted. I got them, they were fine, everything was spiffy"...Hhmm, I
don't know if that made sense, but I guess what I'm trying to say is that
make sure it's more of an honest critiqe instead of a rant.
    I've seen a horde of Oldsmobiles around town lately.  One was an
early 70's Cutlass S, dark green in and out...from what I could tell good
shape except where the college student cut out gaping holes in the back
window area for huge speakers and hadn't put them in yet, and had
replaced the wheels for some shiny new, solid aluminum, racy looking
things (looked like wheels from the little 'bass' cars)...The other was early
70's too (I think), I'm not making bets on if it was a cutless or 442 (cause I
don't know the differance that well but the tail lights were the same from
the other Cutless)...anyway it was a medium blue color, black interior
convertable.  The reason I want to say it was a 442 was because it didn't
have any emblems on it, but right behind the front wheel well it had
enough holes for possibly fitting in a 442 emblem.  It was in decent
condition, though probably better than mine (<sigh> I miss my car). 
    Well I suppose I'll mosey away for now :)

Laura
66 Delta 88 (*still* in the shop-try back tomorrow)

PS - I'm probably going to be moving to the Dallas (TX) area in January,
would the folks up there, perchance, have any sort of gatherings,
mechanic suggestions, anything?

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 1997 11:46:44 -0400
Subject: Re: tree to ground

At 08:06 AM 7/2/97 -0500, you wrote:
>I am planning on converting my Cutlass to a floor shift. I was
>wondering if there is a way to get rid of the Tree shifter so it doesn't
>look so ugly and useless sitting there. I was thinking that after I take
>it off, I'm going to have a big gap in the column. Does anybody know
>where I can get a new column shield without the shifter hole?

Well, you can pirate a new "shifter bowl" (what the assembly is called in
some manuals) from a floor-shift column, but disassembling a column,
especially a tilt-column, is a lesson in the use of "special-purpose" tools.
If you find a column from a floor-shift model, it is always much simpler to
swap the whole column, even if you have to paint it to match your interior
(I bet your original column needed painting anyway).

As for finding just the shifter-bowl on a dealer's shelf somewhere, I doubt
it was sold as a separate assembly, though you never know.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 1997 11:46:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Camshaft for Rocket 350?

At 10:27 AM 7/2/97 -0400, you wrote:
>> I am picking up a Rocket 350 from someone here,
>> What cam should I look for with a 85 Cutlass with
>> 2.14 gears?  I hipo cam would not help, is there
>> any cams that are recommended that people use with
>> that combination?  This is a daily driver, and not
>> a race car.
>> 
>> What cam specs do the 350's like?

With that rear axle ratio, no performance cam is going to make you move out
much quicker, though you'll be able to reach 70mph in first gear...

Probably stick with the stock 350 camshaft, or maybe the cam for an '83-'85
H/O-442 motor. You'll want to boost the performance in the 1000-3000rpm
range, so maybe even an "RV"-type cam.

OTOH, swapping out the rear axle to something like a 3.08 will make a  real
world of difference in response and around-town performance, without
compromising its daily-driver status.

>I've never even heard of 2.14 gears.  Must be a typo.  Anyway, my daily 

Unfortunately, I've heard those are stock in the newer Cutlasses. An extreme
measure for saving gas, especially when coupled with an overdrive
transmission (what is that engine turning at 60mph, 800rpm?)
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 1997 12:45:17 -0500
Subject: Re: tree to ground

Robert Barry wrote:
> 
> Well, you can pirate a new "shifter bowl" (what the assembly is called in
> some manuals) from a floor-shift column, but disassembling a column,
> especially a tilt-column, is a lesson in the use of "special-purpose" tools.
> If you find a column from a floor-shift model, it is always much simpler to
> swap the whole column, even if you have to paint it to match your interior
> (I bet your original column needed painting anyway).

Actually, no, it doesn't. I was just thinking that I could disassemble
the shifter on the column (pull out the stick and assembly) take a solid
bowl and put it on, then do the floor conversion. This won't work, eh?

> As for finding just the shifter-bowl on a dealer's shelf somewhere, I doubt
> it was sold as a separate assembly, though you never know.

That's why they make junkyards. I can just pull one of a GM A body from
that year and it will work, right?

- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
Ev_Corp Main Admin.
delta_v plug G/S/O Admin.
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 1997 14:46:32 -0300
Subject: valve diam.

What is the Valve diameter on a stock 73 350? I need to buy some locks
and I don't know how big they should be.
- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
Ev_Corp Main Admin.
delta_v plug G/S/O Admin.
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 1997 12:47:28 -0400
Subject: Re: tree to ground

At 12:45 PM 7/2/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Actually, no, it doesn't. I was just thinking that I could disassemble
>the shifter on the column (pull out the stick and assembly) take a solid
>bowl and put it on, then do the floor conversion. This won't work, eh?
          ^^^^^^^^^
Yeah, you could, but the "putting it on" part is the part that involves
disassembling the whole column (look at it, and imagine how you would get
the shift-bowl off of there; it has to come off the end that the steering
wheel is bolted to. Not a pretty sight).
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "smardale@airmail.net" <smardale@airmail.net>
Date: Fri, 02 May 1997 11:46:11 -0500
Subject: Wheel/Tire Combo for '65 442...

I remember Bryceman and a few others discussing what wheel/tire combo they
had for their '65s.  I know that I can break out the yardstick and plumb bob
to determine backspacing and maximum width & diameter, but I was wondering
if anyone else has already graduated to a larger (than 14") setup-- Something
in the 15"-17" range, and as wide as I can get without rubbing, modification,
or sticking out past the car. I guess the biggest dilemma I have is 
backspacing.

TIA!

Scott Martindale
smardale@airmail.net
1965 442 Holiday Coupe
1965 442 Convertible

------------------------------

From: senko@reston.ans.net (Andrew A. Senko)
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 1997 12:59:56 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Lansing where are you?

Greetings all!

I haven't read the list in a few months and I see now that this namelist is
being generated for Lansing.  The digest that I read had at least four
incarnations of the namelist, so I put them all together, and sorted them by
last name.  This list should be correct as of 7/2/97 8:55am EDT, which is
the last digest I received.  Of course, I added myself into the list,
bringing the number of names in this list to 37!.


Adams, Tom          Kellogg Center     8/21-24    66 Delta conv
Beaulieu, Greg      Hampton Inn        8/18-23    none
Bicker, Steve       Quality Suites     8/19-24    67 442 Saffron Yellow
Blankenship, Mike   Red Roof Inn       8/20-24    none
Bradley, Terry&Barb                               71 Cutlass, 70 W-30
Chermack, Jim       Mariott East       8/18-25    70 SX W-32
Cremean, Matt       Cremean Inn        8/21       73 Cutlass Supreme
Culp, Bill          Park Inn Int       8/21-24    silver '62 Jetfire
Easton, Jeff        Fairfield Okemos   8/20-22    70 442 black
Forsee, Ron         Hampton Inn        8/20-24    65 442
Glista, Nikki       Holiday West       8/19-24    68 Cutlass conv
Glista, Richard     Holiday West       8/19-23    68 - 442
Gulino, Dan         Sleep Inn          8/20-24    75 Delta 88 conv
Harkema, Doug       Holt, MI           all        70 Supreme conv.
Hartlieb, Paul      Marriott East      8-19-23    67 Ninety Eight
Hendley, Daren      Ramada             8/20-24    none
Hirtle, Don         Hampton            8/18-23    none
Horton, Everett     Sheraton           8/19-23    61 Starfire conv
Horton, Gordon      Sheraton           8/19-23    71 Supreme conv
Johnson, Ernie      Ramada             8/20-24    67-442
Kitchener, Doug     Holiday West       8/19-24    Gold '70 Supreme conv 
Loban, John         Clubhouse Inn      8/20-24    63 Starfire conv
McFarlane, Cliff    Holiday West       8/19-23    63 Starfire
Nicholson, Brad     Best Western       8/19-24    87 442 (Just Me)
O'Connor, Peg       Holiday West       8/19-24    none
Penny, Steve        Hampton            8/18-23    none
Pritchett, Bill     Radisson           8/20-23    61 98
Senko, Drew         Sheraton           8/20-23    71 Supreme conv.
Smetana, Chris      BW Governors       8/20-24    possibly a 72 S
Smith, Brian        Hampton            8/18-23    none
Soball, Dave        Motel 6 Central    8/20-24    Red/White '55 98
Stewart, Sandy      Hampton            8/18-23    none
Westlake, Steve     Holiday West       8/19-23    63 - 98
Williams, Dan       Hampton Inn        8/20-24    68 442 conv.
Williams, Danny     Red Roof Inn       8/20-24    none
Wilson, Jim         none               8/19-23    64 Stafire
Wyatt, Dave         BW Governors       8/20-24    Yellow '70 4-4-2

 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

On an unrelated note, I just got my front end kit and front coil springs
from PST yesterday.  I haven't had time to really look them over, but I'm
excited just the same.  For those of you keeping score of vendors, I am
pleased with the turn around time from PST for shipping parts ordered.
Everything came in just a few days, and to the best of my knowledge, I got
the correct stuff.

Dal Allan asked about variable rate springs.  I have these on the rear of
my 71 Supreme convertible now.  My car doesn't push the envelope of
performance, so I don't feel that I can give you useful opinions for that.
I can say, however, that either my old springs were sagging, or the new
ones hold the car up higher, because there is a noticable (to me)
difference in the height of the rear end of my car.

I think the spiel I was told was that on small bumps, the smaller coils
compress to absorb the bump, and on larger bumps or really heavy loads, the
bigger coils come into play.  As you've heard, they're supposed to be
better in all situations.  I don't know for sure.  I needed new springs
anyway, and these are certainly no worse than OEM springs, IMHO.

- -- 
                    _
                    |\            Convertibles                     
     .__====-_._____|_\______         Rule!                        Drew Senko
     [   ___  |-     |  ___  \                           senko@reston.ans.net
     =\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)               http://members.aol.com/drewinva
_________\_/____________\_/__________________________________________________

------------------------------

From: katana72@juno.com (Rob T)
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 21:52:01 -0500
Subject: Re: rear springs replacement: suggestions?

On Tue, 01 Jul 1997 13:14:18 -0400 MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net> writes:
>If you want something that isn't exact, then go down to your local
>Western Auto, or some place like that, get some rear replacement MOOG
>springs, for example, and it will restore the rear ride. (Check on 442
>spring applications, it should be a firmer spring) If you do a lot of
>heavy hauling maybe load leveler shocks or air shocks (I particulary
>don't recommend the air shocks) are also some options.  To replace the
>springs in your car's rear, unbolt the bottom of the shock mounts to 
>the
>axle, raise the car as high as possible and let the rear end hang. (A
>garage X-lift would be the safest) Whatever you do, do NOT get under 
>the
>car unless the frame is sturdily supported.  If the car falls, you'll
>get hurt.  Then, once it's supported, climb under, one side at a time
>and you probably can lift the old springs out if they don't fall out, 
>or
>with a little hand compression wiggle them out.
>
>To install the new springs, check with the service guide for 72 to 
>find
>out which way the "Pigtail" on the spring goes.  Usually this is 
>facing
>inward, but check the service manual and any documentation that comes
>with the new springs.  Officially, you should use a good spring
>compressor, but I've replaced the springs before using hand
>compression.  If you've never done this before, use a spring 
>compressor.
>You'll be glad you did. 
>
>Of course, a reputable shop can replace them for a nominal fee.  It's
>not real difficult.  But you will be amazed at the difference.  Now
>would be a good time to replace the shocks since they are already half
>out.
>
>Hope this gives some insight.
>Mike Rothe
>
I changed the rear springs on my 72 with some from the local automotive
store. It definitely made the car sit a little better. I think that the
safety items you mentioned are important, but towards the overkill side.
As long as a person doesn't remove the rear wheels, they will be there to
protect you. A spring compressor is HARDLY necessary for the rear
springs. Once you unbolt the shocks, with the proper jack, the car should
go plenty high enough to slide in the springs. One safety issue that
wasn't addressed was blocking the front wheels, both fore and aft. The
rear end will only have one wheel on the ground at best. That puts an
awful lot of pressure on the parking pawl. Another thing to replace,
while you're in there, are the rubber spring noise absorbers. They
usually rot with time.I will have to agree with latest post on this from
dk(?).Good luck!!

Katana72          "It's NOT yourDaddy's Oldsmobile !!!!!    Hastings, MN

------------------------------

From: Dan Lacey <lacey@dsea.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 1997 10:51:19 -0800
Subject: Re: Various things

>Greets everyone-
>   I just wanted to comment on a few emails.  On the subject of touching
>up/repainting inside trim with the tester pens, would those be suitable for
>the plastic trim (which was metal coated) also?
>    All the talk about replacing springs reminded me to ask - can a
>replacement car jack be found easily or will the newer ones (like the
>jacks that lift the car by it's axel) work just as well.  I desperatly
>need one
>for the car and don't know if an original type would be best or one of the
>newer types.  I have the most horrible luck with tires and I'm sure I will
>need one sooner than I'd actually want.


[SNIP]

I bought a 2-1/2 ton floor jack. The kind with wheels. You should put a
piece of plywood in the trunk for under the jack when you use it on the
road. You also need a screw driver to "release" the jack.

These will be MUCH safer than the original jack. I have the original jack
in mine but keep the floor jack in the trunk (lots of room in our trunks! I
have a 1965 98).

These are really meant to be used to lift the car and you should use jack
stands to hold the car up once in place. For just changing a tire tho, this
should be safe. You shouldn't use it to hold the car up for extended
periods of time (like changing shocks or brakes, etc.). I bought my Laurin
jack for about $20. A small set of jack stands runs about $20 as well.

Anybody care to comment on the safety issue???


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: Aaron D Eoff <sheep542@mindspring.com>
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 1997 13:58:01 -0400
Subject: I don't know jack!! (was:Re: Various things)

>[SNIP]
>
>I bought a 2-1/2 ton floor jack. The kind with wheels. You should put a
>piece of plywood in the trunk for under the jack when you use it on the
>road. You also need a screw driver to "release" the jack.
>

>Anybody care to comment on the safety issue???
>
>
just curious about the  2 1/2 ton jack is that enough lifting power for a 77
olds cutlass? What about a two ton jack?

Aaron D Eoff
   ///////  ///////
       //       //
      //       //
     //       //
    //       //  'twas a goodyear

1977 Olds Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 1997 13:58:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Various things

At 10:51 AM 7/2/97 -0800, you wrote:
>>    All the talk about replacing springs reminded me to ask - can a
>>replacement car jack be found easily or will the newer ones (like the
>>jacks that lift the car by it's axel) work just as well.  I desperatly
>>need one
>>for the car and don't know if an original type would be best or one of the
>>newer types.  I have the most horrible luck with tires and I'm sure I will
>>need one sooner than I'd actually want.
>
>I bought a 2-1/2 ton floor jack. The kind with wheels. You should put a
>piece of plywood in the trunk for under the jack when you use it on the
>road. You also need a screw driver to "release" the jack.

Hmmm, the release on the floor jack I had a slotted end, but a pin in the
end of the handle (which is really just a long pipe) mated with that when I
stuck the end of the handle over it. Your jack handle was not designed to
release the jack?

>These will be MUCH safer than the original jack. I have the original jack
>in mine but keep the floor jack in the trunk (lots of room in our trunks! I
>have a 1965 98).
>
>These are really meant to be used to lift the car and you should use jack
>stands to hold the car up once in place. For just changing a tire tho, this
>should be safe. You shouldn't use it to hold the car up for extended
>periods of time (like changing shocks or brakes, etc.). I bought my Laurin
>jack for about $20. A small set of jack stands runs about $20 as well.
>
>Anybody care to comment on the safety issue???

These cheap $20 2-ton jacks are great, especially when they come in their
own carrying case (a floor jack rolling around in the trunk can cause quite
a bit of damage if, say, you are carrying home grocery bags that have glass
jars of honey or sauce in them...). One thing to watch out for, though, is
the effect of jacking up a car on an incline. While these jacks are strong
vertically, any forces on a horizontal plane can cause the lifting portion
to distort, and possibly tip over. They don't have a lot of stability
side-to-side. You can compensate for this somewhat, by always having the
jack pointing up or down a hill, to minimize the effect of, say, the car
wanting to move downhill. Since they are so narrow, the lifting point of
these jacks can quite easily extend over the wheels supporting them on one
side, and tip over.

The factory bumper-jack, while flimsy and wobbly, is that way by design; it
is meant to be a temporary fourth corner to a car, and it has a lot of play
in it so it can move around as the car is jacked up. The floor jack can roll
back and forth, but it cannot move side-to-side, so you have to be careful
there.

I'd go with both, and use the bumper jack on any inclined surface or any
surface of a loose consistency (gravel, sandy soil, etc.). The
recommendation to carry a piece of plywood to serve as a temporary jacking
surface is also applicable to the factory floor jack. You should be able to
pick up a factory-style bumper jack from a junkyard for next to nothing; GM
only had a few styles, so you don't have to get one specifically made for
your car, just one of the style that works with your car.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Aaron D Eoff <sheep542@mindspring.com>
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 1997 14:19:46 -0400
Subject: Floor pan prep 

Hi All!!
 Misplaced the info i recieved from this list a while back on installing a
floor pan so i need it again if anyone would be so kind:

1. What type of weld do you recommend?
2. Are the seams coated with anything special?
3. Overall what can i do to protect the entire floor area from rust and
corrosion??

Aaron D Eoff
   ///////  ///////
       //       //
      //       //
     //       //
    //       //  'twas a goodyear

1977 Olds Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: Ray Moriarty <rmoriarty@blairinc.com>
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 1997 14:32:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Faux 442 (was Re: Broadcast sheets)

At 11:51 AM 7/2/97 -0400, you wrote:
>At 11:33 AM 7/2/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Was posi standard in 442's? I was under the assumption that it was
>(unfortunately) an option. Did these people bother swapping the
>engine/transmissions, or did they just slap a 400 sticker on the original
>350? Also, what did they do about the VIN's?
>_______________________________________________________
>Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
>Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

I'm not sure if posi was a defining characteristic of the 442, but I was
looking for it and all three cars were advertised as having posi. Sorry for
the confusion. As far as the engines and transmissions went, no effort was
made to attempt a correct configuration. One was a '69 with a 455. I will
give This guy credit for one thing: he was not trying to sell the car as
correct or numbers matching. His credit stops there though. He said the
engine was built by Joe Mondello, but he lost the receipt and bill of
lading in a recent move. He also said he had the stock air cleaner, exhaust
manifolds and most of the missing trim in the trunk. However, he lost the
trunk key in the same move. Yeah right! The next guy was selling a '70 with
a 350. He said it was selling it for his son who was in school out of
state. "My son says it is a real 442" says pop. For all I know the kid
bought it as a 442 and never checked. The third guy was selling a '70 as
numbers matching. I did have a 455 in it, but the numbers didn't match.
This was the clown that started arguing with me. He was trying to tell me
that numbers matching had nothing to do with the VIN. To him numbers
matching meant the engine and trans were designed to go together. In
retrospect I find it all very entertaining. I must add the fact that I have
met, and continue to meet many, excellent people Oldsmobiling (sp?).

Thanks for the Rant!
Ray

------------------------------

From: padavano.joe@Orbital.COM
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 97 14:32:58 est
Subject: Re[2]: Faux 442 (was Re: Broadcast sheets)

     
Was posi standard in 442's? 
     
     No, unfortunately it was optional.
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

From: enowacki@titan.com (Erik Nowacki)
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 1997 11:35:25 -0700
Subject: Re: I don't know jack!! (was:Re: Various things)

I would go with a floor jack rather than the original type.  My previous
Vista Cruiser had a flat and when I jacked it up with the bumper jack, the
wheel never came off the ground.  Apparently someone had put the wrong
shocks in there with WAY TOOOO MUCH travel, which let the wheels stay on the
ground even as the jack was fully extended.  This may have been a fluke, but
I am going to get a floor jack for my next roadtrip.

Just my two cents.

Erik Nowacki
72 Vista Cruiser

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 1997 14:51:18 -0400
Subject: Re: I don't know jack!! (was:Re: Various things)

At 01:58 PM 7/2/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>I bought a 2-1/2 ton floor jack. The kind with wheels. You should put a
>>
>just curious about the  2 1/2 ton jack is that enough lifting power for a 77
>olds cutlass? What about a two ton jack?

Plenty. I use a 2-ton jack on my 5000lb Toronado all the time (of course,
I'm not trying to lift the *whole* car with it at any one time...). For all
practical purposes, those little 2-ton, 2 1/4 ton, and 2 1/2 ton jacks are
all the same; they all lift about 15" high, and are good general purpose
tools. Some are more cheaply made than others, though; of the two I have,
one only raises about a 1/4 of what the other raises with the same amount of
handle pumps, so it's a lot more work. In addition, it doesn't have the
convenient carrying handle that the other one has. It's the little features
like this that distinguish these jacks; whatever the case, they'll all lift
your car up in the air.

Of course, the large 2 1/2 ton jacks are in a class all by themselves; they
usually lift up to about 19", and are much more stable and easier to pump
up. Of course, they cost five times as much. They are *not* that portable,
however, unless you have a pickup truck with an hydraulic-lift tailgate...
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Cashmore <cashmore@imt.net>
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 1997 13:23:29 -0600
Subject: Re: Wheel/Tire Combo for '65 442...

smardale@airmail.net wrote:
> 
> I remember Bryceman and a few others discussing what wheel/tire combo they
> had for their '65s.  I know that I can break out the yardstick and plumb bob
> to determine backspacing and maximum width & diameter, but I was wondering
> if anyone else has already graduated to a larger (than 14") setup-- Something
> in the 15"-17" range, and as wide as I can get without rubbing, modification,
> or sticking out past the car. I guess the biggest dilemma I have is
> backspacing.
> 
> TIA!
> 
> Scott Martindale
> smardale@airmail.net
> 1965 442 Holiday Coupe
> 1965 442 Convertible
Scott,
	I put 15" Eagle rims with 245/60r15 Kelly Chargers on mine.  Not sure
what the back spacing is though.  As for rubbing,  the front tires
barely catch the chrome molding on hard turns with a fully loaded (3-5
people) car.  Definitely would recommend this swap.  You could go a
little smaller up front if you wanted.  I just like that big tire all
the way around look.
						Travis
						65 442 post

------------------------------

From: R4C442@aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 1997 15:42:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: rebuilt HEI

Hey Todd!
                I would suggest that you find/solicit someone who has an HEI
with your particular manifold because I know for a fact that it won't fit
with the Edelbrock O4B.
                                                   Ron Forsee 65 442_Meister

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #742
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