
oldsmobile-digest        Sunday, July 20 1997        Volume 01 : Number 764



Re: Overheating!!!!
R-12 to R-134a
Freaky temp readings (and possible solution)
W31 damper ID?
'71 park lite available
Convertible Speakers
Re: R-12 to R-134a
synth oil, 68 H/O 4spd
need horn cap
Re: Convertible Speakers
RE: '84 307 V8 locked up/ LeSabre Limited value
All I wanted to do was KEEP my wheels...
Cooling system upgrade, yes/no?
1966 Olds Cutlass FS
7 Cylinder Heads and 8.5" 10 bolts
Re: W31 damper ID?
Wheel Wells
Re: Wheel Wells
Re: Overheating!!!!
Re: Antique Olds
Re: Estimate on a '70 Delta 88 convertible, please
Re: R-12 to R-134a
Re: Wheel Wells
Re: synth oil, 68 H/O 4spd
Re: Wanted 68 442 parts....
Re: Wheel Wells
Re: All I wanted to do was KEEP my wheels...
Re: Smog Adventure
Re: Smog Adventure
Re: Small Block Exhuast Manifolds?
Re: quartz clock conversions 
Re: 7 Cylinder Heads and 8.5" 10 bolts
Re: Cooling system upgrade, yes/no?
Re: UNBOUNCE: '62 F-85 Parts
Still Time to Order List Member ID Buttons
Re: Smog Adventure
Re: UNBOUNCE: '62 F-85 Parts
Re: rear end gears 364
Re: Convertible Speakers
R-406a observations (Re: R-12 to R-134a)
Re: Smog Adventure

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 14:34:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: PaulP34167@aol.com
Subject: Re: Overheating!!!!

In a message dated 97-07-18 14:03:35 EDT, you write:

> There
>  > is a 1968 Chevelle rearend under it with 3:36 gears. Turbo 400 
> transmission.
>  > The factory tach. was running 4500 r.p.m.s at 55 m.p.h. / That seems
high 
> to
>  > me. I'm putting an aftermarket tach. in today to verify these r.p.m.s.

Yes, that is high.  According to my calculations, with 245 60-14 tires the
engine should be turning about 2450 rpm.

Paul Pate
70 Cutlass S (350-4V, 3.08 diff., TH350)
84 Camaro (305-4V, 3.08 diff., 700R4, low options)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 14:42:57 EDT
From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Subject: R-12 to R-134a

A few weeks ago there was some email exchanged about an R-12 to R-134a
conversion someone did.  Well, I would like to know more.  I have
purchased, for the ~other car~, a new compressor (which came with R-134a
oil, hmmmm) and a new reciever/drier (which is both R-12 and R-134a
compatible).  Since I will be opening the system and replacing these
parts anyway, I figured I *mightaswell* change it over to R-134a, if
possible.  I know the charge fittings (Schraeder-type valves) are
different, and the R-12/R-134a oils are incompatible; what else do I need
to change?  The two pages of instructions that came with the compressor
highly recommend installing an in-line filter; is this necessary?   

Olds content -- the A/C in my Olds hasn't worked in over ten years. 
Pretty pathetic, huh?  When I fix it, maybe I'll convert it to R-134a,
too.  Mightaswell...

Please reply to me privately if you feel your response would not be
appropriate for the list.

Thanks!


Dave Paulison                    1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida                1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 15:00:30 +0600
From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Subject: Freaky temp readings (and possible solution)

I've never heard of this happening before, but I found it pretty weird.
Maybe this little anecdote will help if anyone else ever has this problem.

I was headed to the auto parts store this morning and noticed my temp gauge
was bouncing the needle all over the d*mn place. I took off from a light and
watched it climb 40 degrees (190-230) in the span of about 1 
second!  Once I hit 45 I let off the accelerator and the tranny engaged
overdrive.  The engine rpm leveled off to about 1100, and after a few
seconds the temp needle swung back to 190.  (This is a mechanical gauge,
BTW, I guess that's why the reaction time is so quick on it.)  I was
debating whether to turn back after that, but decided the needle was hanging
around the cooler side of the gauge more than the hot, so I kept going with
one eye on the temp.  I watched the gauge all through town as the needle
whipped back and forth between 180 to as high as 240.  As I was headed back
from the parts store with my tranny pan gasket and strainer (changing the
fluid today) I noticed that the gauge moved pretty much the same time as the
gas pedal.  I finally realized that I had a hose sucking shut.  Of course,
it's only natural that I realize I need a radiator hose on the way *back*
from the parts store, but that's life I guess.  I got home and popped the
hood with the engine running.  The lower hose looked fine.  I reached under
the air cleaner and cracked the throttle a little. (burned my thumb too,
it's *hot* under there!)  Sure enought the hose flattened out completely.
So I'll be replacing that this afternoon too I guess.  

So if your temperature gauge can't make up it's mind all of a sudden, check
first for radiator hoses collapsing.

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista Cruiser
`67 Cutlass Supreme
 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 15:00:59 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: W31 damper ID?

Hoping one of you can h*lp ID that much-ballyhoo'd elusive W31 harmonic damper.
I have a few misc. dampers on hand, just measured a couple. I presume we're
talking the straight barrel type, not the "stepped" style as used on say a '68
350 motor. Anyhow, the two I measured were:

most common: ~6.5" dia., and right about 1" thick.
less common: same dia., but thicker, about 1 & 3/8" thick.

Yet, I have been told that the latter one is not a W31 type.

So, OK, what *does* a W31 tpye look like, how can I tell if I do find one?

Stepped or straight style?
Dia. same as usual, about 6.5"?
Thickness front to rear?

thanks!
- --
Chris  B. Witt
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 15:02:53 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: '71 park lite available

to the guy who needs a '71 parking lite, etc. please contact me. The current
parts car has such a unit, and I told my kid he could keep the money if he can
sell it. He got all excited about that...
- --
Chris  B. Witt
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 12:24:48 -0500
From: ferguson@themall.net (Lloyd Ferguson)
Subject: Convertible Speakers

I have recently purchased a 69 Cutlass convertible and would like to
upgrade the orginal AM mono radio system.  Does anyone know if these cars
came with factory rear Stereo speakers, where and how are they are mounted?
Also were there front speakers other than the one in the center?


Lloyd Ferguson
ferguson@themall.net
(818) 241-9350

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 12:31:44 -0500
From: ferguson@themall.net (Lloyd Ferguson)
Subject: Re: R-12 to R-134a

If you haven't seen it, here has been a lot of stuff on this subject
recently in both rec.autos.antique and rec.autos.tech.  I have bookmarked a
couple of web sites that discuss this, if you are interested I can send you
the URLs.


Lloyd Ferguson
ferguson@themall.net
(818) 241-9350

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 15:54:52 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: synth oil, 68 H/O 4spd

> BTW, as far as H/O rarities.....John Demmer of Demmer Engineering (the
> contractor that "built" the H/O'for Hurst) has the only 68 H/O 4-speed.
> The rest of the 68's and ALL 69's were automatics.  I believe he still
> owns it.

You can see it at http://www.442.com/museum.html (not that you can tell
it's a 4-speed...)

[Ehm, not quite! Here's what happened....
I saw the 68 H/O at the museum, photo'd it, sent photos off to bryceman at
www.442.com, with the note that it "MAY BE the 4-speed" H/O owned by Demmers.
    This was based on the fact that I followed a very pretty 68 H/O one day,
flagged him down, spoke to him, turned out to be the son of Mr. Demmer... and
sure enough he pointed out the fact that this one was a 4-spd car, which would
have been lost on me had he not pointed out that most were AT cars.

Somehow, this became "*is* the 4-speed car" on the web page...

 Mr. Demmer said he was taking the car to the museum... so, later, when I saw a
68 H/O at the museum, I assumed it was that one. However, later inspection
reveals that the car in that photo, the one on the web page, is in fact a more
ordinary, if any 68 H/O can be called that, AT unit owned by a guy in Ionia,
MI.

  I wrote Bryce, asked him to correct that misinformation, but I guess that's
pretty low priority in the web page maintenance. I shall try again. -Chris]

- ------------
- --synth oil:
I remember read several years ago a test a magazine did. They took a late
'60s Road Runner to the strip ran it a couple times with conventional oil
swicthed to synthetic and claimed it picked up something like .30 in the
1/4. I find it kinda hard to believe but I guess it could be possible.
Daren

To me, all that proves is that fresh oil, or different oil, alters performance.
Now, if you put fresh non-synthetic back in, and the car was again slower, and
that result was repeatable, THEN I'd believe that it was more than just an
anomaly. Kinda like changing to SpitForce [joke name] spark plugs- wow, NEW
plugs work better than old, huh, no kidding!?
- --
Chris  B. Witt
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: 19 Jul 97 16:00:54 EDT
From: "deirdre. reilly" <102724.635@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: need horn cap

Hey all,
I did a little parts hunting today and I picked up an '84/85 Toro sport steering
wheel that I put on my Cutlass.  The color matches perfectly, but the only
problem is it's missing the center horn cap.  I dug through the junk on floor
and looked on the ground but couldn't find it. I'm guessing someone took that
already. I figured I'd ask here first (before I go to the dealership) to see if
anyone has one or knows of one in a yard near them.  I'm looking for one that's
maroon (Olds calls it claret).  If someone could help me out, I'd appreciate it.
Thanks. 

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme
 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 17:06:07 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Convertible Speakers

On Sat, 19 Jul 1997, Lloyd Ferguson wrote:
> I have recently purchased a 69 Cutlass convertible and would like to
> upgrade the orginal AM mono radio system.  Does anyone know if these cars
> came with factory rear Stereo speakers, where and how are they are mounted?
> Also were there front speakers other than the one in the center?

All you could get was a 2-speaker setup, one in the front center of the
dash (4x10) and one mounted in the top well area facing the rear that is
6x9. It would be a stereo setup only with an 8-track, I think; not sure an
AM/FM stereo radio was available in the Cutlass in '69. 

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 16:03:19 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <adcockjk@erols.com>
Subject: RE: '84 307 V8 locked up/ LeSabre Limited value

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Steve:

I would recommend to the guy to either rebuild his 307 or put in a =
rebuilt motor.  I don't know how hard it is to match up the 350 and the =
307's computer...I'm sure it can be done (and has been done), but it =
never will run just right.  I'd suggest to rebuild the 307.  The blocks =
before 1985 had the high-nickel content, I think.  This made them very =
strong (not performance-wise).  I don't know how old your friend is (no =
age discrimination here, just my experiences), so I don't know how much =
he is into hopping up Oldsmobiles (and Buicks), but an aftermarket =
exhaust (even a single pipe system) and a K&N air filter would work =
wonders on a just-rebuilt 307.

PR/Legal stuff: Again, no age discrimination here, as I'll probably be =
into hot-rodding cars until I die, but I think we'll all agree that most =
elderly citizens drive Auroras instead of beefed up rockets.

 Jason Adcock
 OCA #028044
 adcockjk@erols.com

 1984 Cutlass Calais RWD V8
 75K Miles, CC1, F41, LV2, N66
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason/cutlass.html
 Also viewable through http://www.442.com

- -----Original Message-----
From:	Steve Ochs [SMTP:Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com]
Sent:	Friday, July 18, 1997 11:46 AM
To:	Oldsmobile List
Subject:	'84 307 V8 locked up/ LeSabre Limited value

Well, I witnessed my first Olds engine failure. A good friend has a 1984
Buick LeSabre Limited with Olds 307 V8 with 145,000 miles on it.  It ran
flawlessly until last week.  It started to run rough and after a couple =
of
days it started stalling.  He got it home and it wouldn't crank even =
when
jumped.  I checked oil and it was 3 quarts high from antifreeze leak.  I
pulle the plugs and #8 cylinder plug was destroyed.  Looks like someone =
hit
it with a hammer 1000 times.  I was able to turn it by hand with lots of
effort but the damage was already done.  It looks like coolant ran into =
#8
cylinder and hydro-locked it.  I assume it is probably the infamous =
intake
manifold leak????? =20
     Anyways, my question is - what is the best way to fix this?  The =
car
is in good condition - a little rust but no holes.  Everything works =
(power
seats, windows, mirrors, A/C, etc.)  It seams like it is worth fixing =
but
should we replace with rebuilt 307, replace with used 350, replace with
rebuilt 350.  I don't know what the car would be worth if it was fixed
because of its age.  Anyone know what this is worth with good engine vs.
bad engine?  Thanks

Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma Plant
Transmission Division (4T60/65-E) - Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com
The statements and opinions expressed here are NOT an official
statement of General Motors or the GM Powertrain Division

'97 Chevy Blazer LT 4x4 4.3L V6    '96 DCM Impala SS 5.7L V8=20
'87 Olds Cutlass 442 307 V8        '61 GMC 1500 Fleetside 305 V6 =20

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IAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAAAGFAAAAAAAACwAQgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAADoUAAAAA
AAADABGACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAAQhQAAAAAAAAMAEoAIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAA
ABGFAAAAAAAAAwAVgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAAGIUAAAAAAAAeACWACCAGAAAAAADAAAAA
AAAARgAAAAA2hQAAAQAAAAEAAAAAAAAAHgAmgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAAN4UAAAEAAAAB
AAAAAAAAAB4AJ4AIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAADiFAAABAAAAAQAAAAAAAAAeAD0AAQAAAAUA
AABSRTogAAAAAAMADTT9NwAAteE=

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC9462.576B7FE0--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 16:37:40 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <adcockjk@erols.com>
Subject: All I wanted to do was KEEP my wheels...

Hey, everybody.  This is a fairly long story, but I'll try to keep it short.  I got the car a little over two years ago.  It had the original 11 year old (then) lug nuts and on some of them, the aluminum (I guess) casings were starting to come loose.  No big deal...I'll just get a locking set...I wanted a locking lug nuts anyway.  So, I bought those.  I replaced set 1 with set 2.  They were the kind where the key fit over the whole nut and slipped through slots on the outside of the nut.  I thought, "well these are cool...I don't even have to look at those little squiggly things on the outside of most locking sets".  Well, some of those started falling off.  Falling off?  They were tightened to factory torque specs...and then some.  Anyway, when some of them started falling off, I put a member of the original set (set 1) back on.  I got tired of that REAL fast, and on one of the wheels the locking nut had fallen off so somebody could actually steal ONE wheel of the front of my car.  So, I figured the Gorilla set (set 2) I bought was a cheap set (about $20), so I invested in a really nice set (about $37; set 3).  Cool.  The squiggly key pattern is on the outside, but so what, people'l see that I care, right?  Well, I took the car to Firestone to have my tires re-seated because of leaking around the rim and they lost the key to set 3.  Lost the key...they take thousands (okay, maybe hundreds) of lugnuts off each day, surely some of these cars have lugnut keys...HOW COULD THEY LOSE MY KEY?  Of course, I didn't think to check for the key until AFTER I got home, so I called back and the guy said that they hadn't found them, but he would buy me a set of four locking nuts.  All I had to do was bring my car down there so he could try to get my existing nuts off without ruining the rims.  I have to say I was impressed...I hope he doesn't go into wheel theft someday.  $20 of his money later...and about 6 gallons of my money...I had new locks (set 3a).  So, I' pulling out of the parking lot today (man its hot fishing out here!) and I hear clunking...great.  I check the lug nuts and sure enough, the lug nuts on both front tires were pretty stripped.  None of set 3 or 3a had fallen off yet, but they were getting there.  So, I called my father to bail me out (he always does) and bring me all of my original lug nuts so I could drive home and ask this question of y'all:

WHY DON'T 1/2" LUG NUTS FIT 1/2" STUDS????

So, three and a half sets of nuts later and about 70 bucks of my money, I'm back to set 1.  And they still fit perfectly.

P.S. The information I was trying to get out of you guys after all that was this:

1) Does my car really have 1/2" studs or are they something like 12mm?
2) Am I just buying cheap nuts that expand when heated?

 Jason Adcock
 OCA #028044
 adcockjk@erols.com

 1984 Cutlass Calais RWD V8
 75K Miles, CC1, F41, LV2, N66
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason/cutlass.html
 Also viewable through http://www.442.com

------------------------------

Date: 19 Jul 1997 14:52:08 PST
From: mjones@dragon.gleep.com
Subject: Cooling system upgrade, yes/no?

Hello again, I've been posting about engine rebuilds and such, and I'm
probably set on rebuilding a 403 for my 88, mostly because it is the
biggest of the smaller blocks and I know I won't have any problem
finding one (unlike a 455) and I know it will bolt up and I can use my
stock accessories.  I read somewhere on here today that if someone was
to swap a 403 into a B-body where a 307 used to rest that they would
have to do colling system upgrades.  This is where my question comes in.
 My car, a '78 Delta 88, has the Y-72 HD cooling system/alternator
(towing package) on the 350 V8.  Would I need to do a cooling system
upgrade?  I know the radiator is pretty THICK (thicker than my mom's
radiator in her 307-equipped '90 Custom Cruiser, infact we replaced it
with one from a HD cooling car) and if I use electric fans or can duct
air into the radiator itself would I have a problem with cooling?  I
kind of doubt it but I just want to be re-assured.

Here are local prices for major drivetrain parts at the local
Pick-your-Part in Hayward, California:

Engine assembly (complete) $149.95 w/o warranty, $194.95 with
  "        "    (short block)  $62.95
Transmission, TH350/400        $36.95
Rearend, 8.5" GM 10 bolt       $62.95

How do these prices sound?

This wrecking yard also has a half-off sale at different times of the
year..  I'll have to find out when they are :)

Mike Jones
'78 88 2 door

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 15:44:14 -0700
From: "Mike Aldana" <maldana@quix.net>
Subject: 1966 Olds Cutlass FS

Just recently purchased a 1966 Cutlass.which is fine running condition. All
glass, including windshield, appear excellent. PS,PB, A/C (minus hoses, and
compressor) otherwise all there. Automatic trans, Console, buckets,
Oldsmobile vacuum gauge on console, am pushbutton radio, padded dash
(cracked). The only rust on the car is in the trunk with small pinholes in
a 6x6'' area. Car sports original paint very faded on trunk lid. No rust
behind back window, Has vinyl top(a little shrunken at rear, otherwise OK.)
Paint code- T2     Trim-980 (black)  Style-66 33817. No major damage on
body, no visible signs of bondo, or quarter panel damge. Missing left front
trim by wheelwell molding. Bumpers could use chrome, and straightening.
Motor appears original with air cleaner saying cutlass and high compression
on it. Four barrel carb (Rochester Qjet) No smoking, or oil leaks on
driveway. Looks like a real survivor. Car was built in Fremont, Ca. and was
last recently in L.A area. Car needs a paint job, minor body work to remove
dings, and two scratches( very minor) some upholstery repair,tires, and a
good detail to make it a very nice car. Back seat is intact, as side panels
on doors, except for the carpet on the bottoms. Car sports original
hubcaps, with two missing the center emblems. I plan to ask for $2500.00
firm in Hemmings ,for anybody on the Olds list that is interested the price
is $2000.00 firm. If no sale, i will do the car, and sell at a later date.
Anybody buying the car  can get the bumpers chromed at very reduced cost
thru me. Please email me directly if anybody is interested.
maldana@quix.net   Video is available for $10.00 showing the car in and
out, top and bottom.

------------------------------

Date: 19 Jul 1997 15:46:38 PST
From: mjones@dragon.gleep.com
Subject: 7 Cylinder Heads and 8.5" 10 bolts

I saw a pair of 7 heads on a '71 Cutlass in the wrecking yard, condition
unknown..  knowing that these heads have a 64 cc chamber in them, how
much compression would that give me with a 403 (let us say a stock
rebuild)?  I have heard anywhere from 9.25 to 9.63:1 CR is possible.

These heads are also not drilled for AIR ports.  Being that my car
is a CA car and has an AIR system, how easy is it to drill these heads
so I may run an AIR system on them?  Are there 5,6,7 heads with ports?

I was also curious if a 8.5" 10 bolt rearend from a '73-'77 A-body would
fit my '78 Delta 88 2 door.  Right now I have a 7.5" 10 bolt with 2.41
gears, great for highway but dead on the street.  Are the spring perches
in the same location, etc?

Mike Jones
'78 88 2dr.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 97 20:28:25 -0500
From: Mike Hall <oldsmike@flash.net>
Subject: Re: W31 damper ID?

Chris,

This may not be much help but here is what I have dug up from "OLDSMOBILE 
4-4-2 & W-MACHINES Restoration Guide" by T. Patrick Sullivan...

>Hoping one of you can h*lp ID that much-ballyhoo'd elusive W31 harmonic 
>damper.
>I have a few misc. dampers on hand, just measured a couple. I presume we're
>talking the straight barrel type, not the "stepped" style as used on say a 
>'68
>350 motor. Anyhow, the two I measured were:
>
>most common: ~6.5" dia., and right about 1" thick.
>less common: same dia., but thicker, about 1 & 3/8" thick.
>
>Yet, I have been told that the latter one is not a W31 type.
I don't know Chris, I have a picture of one in the book and it looks just 
under a half inch thicker than the L-74 balancer shown. I think the 1 & 
3/8" thick is most likely a W-31. I will make a photocopy of the picture 
if you wish to see it...

>So, OK, what *does* a W31 tpye look like, how can I tell if I do find one?
>
>Stepped or straight style?
Stepped. The smaller diameter is just longer.

>Dia. same as usual, about 6.5"?
Yes.

>Thickness front to rear?
Dunno, just under a 1/2" thicker..

Regards,
Mike



Michael R. Hall                                Ortonville, Michigan
Home E-Mail: oldsmike@flash.net
The Oldsmobile Stable:
     1971 Oldsmobile 442, A Work In Progress...    
     1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S, 380 horses of pure Mondello fun...
     1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm, the classy one...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Jul 1997 21:26:32 -0600
From: talcarol@erie.net (Chris Kugler)
Subject: Wheel Wells

I noticed the other day at a car show that a black '70 w30 had its wheel
wells painted red or maybe a dark orange.  I also remember seeing another
w30 that was green with the wheel wells also painted.  Was this stock?
Whats the purpose of this or does it just look good?

Chris Kugler
1977 Cutlass S 442

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 22:25:50 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Wheel Wells

On Sun, 20 Jul 1997, Chris Kugler wrote:
> I noticed the other day at a car show that a black '70 w30 had its wheel
> wells painted red or maybe a dark orange.  I also remember seeing another
> w30 that was green with the wheel wells also painted.  Was this stock?
> Whats the purpose of this or does it just look good?

Olds used red plastic wheel wells on W-30s through '71 (with a few 
reported on early '72s also). Not sure when they started... 

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 21:29:33 -0400
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Overheating!!!!

At 11:43 AM 7/19/97 -0400, you wrote:
>The problem you have sounds exactly like the problem I'm having with my 69
>cutlass oldsmobile.  On a 90-100 degree day my temperature gauge shows the
>temperature between 210-230 degrees and if I am in stop and go traffic for a
>long period of time the temperature will go above 230 degrees.  I have
<snip>
>changed the car kept running at these temperatures.  I have just learned to
>live with these temperatures the car reaches.  It may be normal for my car
>and your car also.  I hope this letter eases your mind a little bit. 

My 403 will run forever at the thermostat's temp of 180', as long as the
temperature outside is below 85'. When it gets to be 90' and above (like it
has been here for the last two weeks), it will idle and run at 195'-210',
whether it's on the highway or in traffic. This is with a new radiator,
hoses, thermostat, water pump, Redline Water Wetter in the system (made no
difference on my car), and a thoroughly hot-tanked block.

No manual I have gives a recommended operating temperature, just a mention
of how a pressure cap can keep the coolant from boiling over until well over
230'. The "HOT" light comes on at 258', which my car never gets near, so I
get the impression that the engine is not designed to run at only one
temperature, but rather that there is an acceptable range within which it
can run, without there being considered a problem existing. While ideally an
engine should run at thermostat temp, and perhaps it gets maximum
performance at or near that temp, the factory-engineered cooling system was
not that anal.

Some things I've thought about, to get more heat out of the engine on hot
days, includes an auxiliary transmission cooler (as soon as I find one with
flare fittings, rather than the rubber hoses), increased oil capacity and an
oil cooler, streamlined airflow into the radiator and out of the engine
compartment, and as a last resort, a 4-row radiator to replace the brand-new
3-row in there now.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 22:06:47 -0400
From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Subject: Re: Antique Olds

At 08:27 PM 7/17/97 +0000, you wrote:
>raneuma@ibm.net wrote:
>> 
>> Does anyone know the approximate value of a 1929 Oldsmobile f-29 2Dr
>> Sedan in show shape, but driven occasionally?
>> 
>> I am buying one and may be paying too much.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Bob Neumann
>> raneuma@ibm.net
>
>Bob,
>
>I do't know what the value is.  I have a suggestion though.  Look in the
>"Old Cars Price Guide" at the library or glance at it on the magazine
>rack.  They have prices on everything according to condition.

I've got a copy of the OCPG that is over a year old, but I doubt that the
prices of these cars are changing radically.  It lists a 1929 Olds F-29
6-cylinder 2-door sedan as $9000 in #1 condition, $6300 in #2, $3600 in #3,
$1800 in #4, $1080 in #5 (why the three significant figures I don't
know...it seems that listing it as $1100 is close enough!), and $450 in #6.


Dan


************************************************
Dan Gulino
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/rides.html
1975 Delta 88 Convertible
************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 22:07:36 -0400
From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Subject: Re: Estimate on a '70 Delta 88 convertible, please

At 09:47 PM 7/18/97 -0600, you wrote:
>I am looking at this car to buy and would like an estimated value of worth.
>Thanks!
>
>1970 Delta 88 Convertible (everything seems original)
>455 Rocket
>matching motor and trans
>66,000 miles
>AM Radio
>interior green with a 3 small rips (3" or less)
>carpet needs replacing
>one 6 inch crack in dash
>new top (I think it's J.C. Whitney type though)
>some rust right front fender behind wheel well
>original green paint - no finish left
>right rear quarter has some bondo
>body otherwise straight and solid
>mechanically sound but hasn't been driven for a while
>older lady only owner

This sounds like a #4 condition (perhaps bordering on #5).  $1,500 - $2,000.


Dan



************************************************
Dan Gulino
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/rides.html
1975 Delta 88 Convertible
************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 22:31:33 -0400 (EDT)
From: PaulP34167@aol.com
Subject: Re: R-12 to R-134a

In a message dated 97-07-19 14:46:57 EDT, you write:

> A few weeks ago there was some email exchanged about an R-12 to R-134a
>  conversion someone did.  Well, I would like to know more.  I have
>  purchased, for the ~other car~, a new compressor (which came with R-134a
>  oil, hmmmm) and a new reciever/drier (which is both R-12 and R-134a
>  compatible).  Since I will be opening the system and replacing these
>  parts anyway, I figured I *mightaswell* change it over to R-134a, if
>  possible.  I know the charge fittings (Schraeder-type valves) are
>  different, and the R-12/R-134a oils are incompatible; what else do I need
>  to change?  The two pages of instructions that came with the compressor
>  highly recommend installing an in-line filter; is this necessary?

Try looking at:
    
       http://www.aircondition.com

This site has everything you want to know.

Paul Pate
70 Cutlass S (350-4V, 3.08 diff., TH350)
84 Camaro (305-4V, 3.08 diff., 700R4, low options)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 22:34:29 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Wheel Wells

At 09:26 PM 7/20/97 -0600, you wrote:
>I noticed the other day at a car show that a black '70 w30 had its wheel
>wells painted red or maybe a dark orange.  I also remember seeing another
>w30 that was green with the wheel wells also painted.  Was this stock?
>Whats the purpose of this or does it just look good?
>
>Chris Kugler
>1977 Cutlass S 442
>
>
Chris

        They were not painted. They are injection molded in a redish orange
color. That is an unique part for the W-30's up to 72. They started using
them in 67 on W-30's.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 22:36:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: PaulP34167@aol.com
Subject: Re: synth oil, 68 H/O 4spd

In a message dated 97-07-19 15:58:09 EDT, you write:

> To me, all that proves is that fresh oil, or different oil, alters
performance.
> 
>  Now, if you put fresh non-synthetic back in, and the car was again slower,

> and
>  that result was repeatable, THEN I'd believe that it was more than just an
>  anomaly. Kinda like changing to SpitForce [joke name] spark plugs- wow,
NEW
>  plugs work better than old, huh, no kidding!?
>  --
>  Chris  B. Witt

I agree, most of the hooplah over synthetics seems to come from the
"scientific" tests performed by the company selling the product or a lab
hired by the company.  I think I might find out what the SAE recommendations
are on engine oils and post it.

Paul Pate
70 Cutlass S (350-4V, 3.08 diff., TH350)
84 Camaro (305-4V, 3.08 diff., 700R4, low options)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 22:38:08 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: Wanted 68 442 parts....

- ----------
> From: James A Ruddell <rudy442@juno.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Wanted 68 442 parts....
> Date: Saturday, July 19, 1997 10:26 AM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Wed, 16 Jul 97 07:41:40 -0600 "Stephen C. Chuck" <scc@teamquest.com>
> writes:
> >
> >Hi guys!!
> >    This is my first post to the group as I just purchased a 68 
> >cutlass 
> >convertible.  It's in pretty nice shape, but would like to make it 
> >look 
> >like a 442.  so, I am looking for the following:
> 
> Maybe it's just me, but my advice to you is, if you want a 442 go buy
> one.  There are to many fakes already!  Your car can be worked to give
> you the guts you want.  What a better sleeper than a rag-top Cutlass to
> blow away Bow-Ties!  Style, comfort and power. What more can you ask for
> in a car.
> 
>  Welcome to the Club!
> 
> 
>  68 442 Holiday Coupe
> James A Ruddell Jr.

I got to agree James I love having my 1970 Cutlass Convertible Beat 5
Litre's and Bow-ties.  No one ever suspects a 13 second Convertible OLDS

Robert Schinkel 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 22:39:24 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: Wheel Wells

- ----------
> From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Wheel Wells
> Date: Saturday, July 19, 1997 9:25 PM
> 
> On Sun, 20 Jul 1997, Chris Kugler wrote:
> > I noticed the other day at a car show that a black '70 w30 had its
wheel
> > wells painted red or maybe a dark orange.  I also remember seeing
another
> > w30 that was green with the wheel wells also painted.  Was this stock?
> > Whats the purpose of this or does it just look good?
> 
> Olds used red plastic wheel wells on W-30s through '71 (with a few 
> reported on early '72s also). Not sure when they started... 
> 
> Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada

In 1968 they Started 

Rob Schinkel
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 22:45:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: PaulP34167@aol.com
Subject: Re: All I wanted to do was KEEP my wheels...

In a message dated 97-07-19 17:14:01 EDT, you write:

> 1) Does my car really have 1/2" studs or are they something like 12mm?
>  2) Am I just buying cheap nuts that expand when heated?

My 84 C*m*ro has metric studs.  I would assume your Olds would too.

Paul Pate
70 Cutlass S (350-4V, 3.08 diff., TH350)
84 Camaro (305-4V, 3.08 diff., TH700R4, low options)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 21:41:52 +0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: Smog Adventure

Mike Frederick wrote:
> 
> Dan Lacey wrote:
> >
> > Frustrated and ONLY buying pre 1966 cars from now on...
> 
> Move.  In Florida, the rules start with the 1975 model year.  :)
> 
>     66 Toro
> The /\   /\ and Mike


Come to Alabama.  No one knows the rules or cares.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

P.S.  Possibly we can't read them!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 21:47:19 +0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: Smog Adventure

Erik Nowacki wrote:
> >
> This is a very interesting thread.  Does anyone know what the rules are for
> Arizona and Nevada??  If the proposed law in CA to make all cars 25 years
> and older exempt from emissions testing doesn't pass, I might be interested
> in registering my cars out of state.

> 
> Erik Nowacki


Erik,

AL has no inspection at all.  It is impossible for a state official to
hold a beer in one hand & your dog in the other & still open a hood.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 22:59:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: CRuper1@aol.com
Subject: Re: Small Block Exhuast Manifolds?

In a message dated 97-07-11 07:46:10 EDT, you write:

<< Thomas, I thought the 307's and the 350's manifolds were both "logs". 
 Maybe the original owner installed headers or a modified manifold.
 
 As for emissions, I don't think the exhaust manifolds have anything to do
 with the AIR system, at least not on my Cutlass.  The AIR stuff pipes right
 into the cylinder head, just above the exhaust port, making any fitting
 header an available option...as opposed to finding a header that you could
 drill for AIR ports.
 
 +------------------------------------------------+
 
  Jason Adcock >>

Nope, they were different, and no, I am not adding headers.  After seeing a
Hurst in the same "year area" as mine with headers, I decided to hell with
it, I like having some space.... and the headers seem to be a little too
much.  If I'm going to use up that much room, I'll install a big block, at
least I'll get something out of all my time working in the engine bay....

Chris.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 20:03:50 -0700
From: mefco@sprynet.com
Subject: Re: quartz clock conversions 

Bill,
Instruments Services Inc., in Roscoe, Ill. 1(800)558-2674. They will not only 
make the clock work, they will clean it up.

Art Fuller
mefco@sprynet.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 23:14:45 -0400
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: 7 Cylinder Heads and 8.5" 10 bolts

At 03:46 PM 7/19/97 PST, you wrote:
>I saw a pair of 7 heads on a '71 Cutlass in the wrecking yard, condition
>unknown..  knowing that these heads have a 64 cc chamber in them, how
>much compression would that give me with a 403 (let us say a stock
>rebuild)?  I have heard anywhere from 9.25 to 9.63:1 CR is possible.

Depends on the machine work, but around 9.5:1 true compression ratio, with
stock dished pistons (assuming that these #7 and #7a heads were in fact
small cc heads; I haven't measured them myself).

>These heads are also not drilled for AIR ports.  Being that my car
>is a CA car and has an AIR system, how easy is it to drill these heads
>so I may run an AIR system on them?  Are there 5,6,7 heads with ports?

Well, they're just NPT holes, so anyone with a drill press (or a *real*
steady hand) just has to drill the appropriate hole for that size tap, and
tap them.

>I was also curious if a 8.5" 10 bolt rearend from a '73-'77 A-body would
>fit my '78 Delta 88 2 door.  Right now I have a 7.5" 10 bolt with 2.41
>gears, great for highway but dead on the street.  Are the spring perches
>in the same location, etc?

I'd love if they were, as I've got a 3.something posi axle from one of those
that I would *love* to replace my 8.5" 2.41 open rear with. I suspect that
they are very different; I did some rough measurements, and they weren't
coming out the same (mind you, they were only rough, though). What you might
want to look for are the axles from the '80-'83 diesel cars, which came with
lower rear gears (higher numerically) in general.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 23:14:49 -0400
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Cooling system upgrade, yes/no?

At 02:52 PM 7/19/97 PST, you wrote:
>Hello again, I've been posting about engine rebuilds and such, and I'm
>probably set on rebuilding a 403 for my 88, mostly because it is the
>biggest of the smaller blocks and I know I won't have any problem
>finding one (unlike a 455) and I know it will bolt up and I can use my
>stock accessories.  

Aside from the fact that my 1978 Electra (same chassis as your 88, just
longer in wheelbase) came with a 403, I decided to stick with one due to the
emissions laws becoming stricter and stricter. If it wasn't for that, I'd
have gone with a 425 or 455. I still may later on, if they loosen up the
regulations for older cars (or if my 403 starts to have a constant appetite
for head gaskets).

>I read somewhere on here today that if someone was
>to swap a 403 into a B-body where a 307 used to rest that they would
>have to do colling system upgrades.  This is where my question comes in.
> My car, a '78 Delta 88, has the Y-72 HD cooling system/alternator
>(towing package) on the 350 V8.  Would I need to do a cooling system
>upgrade?  I know the radiator is pretty THICK (thicker than my mom's
>radiator in her 307-equipped '90 Custom Cruiser, infact we replaced it
>with one from a HD cooling car) and if I use electric fans or can duct
>air into the radiator itself would I have a problem with cooling?  I
>kind of doubt it but I just want to be re-assured.

I think that's the best factory setup you could have; probably the same as
what would be used on a 403-equipped version of your car. I have what is
probably the same factory setup on my 9.5:1 403, and the cooling is
adequate, if not spectacular. With a new fan clutch, new radiator and water
pump, all-new hoses and thermostat, and a 3-year old heater core (not
significant for summer cooling), I run a high of 210' when the temperature
is above 95'. If the temp is below 85', though, it runs right on the 180'
thermostat. It may start to run at more than 210' on the hottest of days,
now that I have the A/C in working condition (for the first time in ages).
But as I mentioned in another post, that would still be in the operating
range for this motor. You just have to watch the heat extra-careful in a
403, since the cylinder walls are so close together, and concentrated heat
in those areas, combined with high cylinder pressures, can blow out head
gaskets (not fatal, but a pain nonetheless).

I need to add a tranny cooler, and may add an oil cooler, with each located
in the cavity behind the front bumper, so that the heat from these coolers
doesn't just get pumped back into the radiator. I'm also planning on venting
the underhood air, but I'm not sure what kind of vents to use, or where to
place them. I've considered the hood corners in the back near the
windshield, where the natural flow of the air through the engine compartment
would seem to want to exit, but I haven't gone to the junkyard to
investigate what kind of holes I'd have to cut to mount, say, some of those
newer Grand Prix hood vents. I'd love to make the portholes on the sides of
my front fenders functional, but they're not in a good spot :(

>Here are local prices for major drivetrain parts at the local
>Pick-your-Part in Hayward, California:
>
>Engine assembly (complete) $149.95 w/o warranty, $194.95 with
>  "        "    (short block)  $62.95

Definitely go with the shortblock, without the warranty. In a rebuild,
you're replacing everything but the block, crank and rods, so don't pay for
what you wouldn't use.

>Transmission, TH350/400        $36.95
>Rearend, 8.5" GM 10 bolt       $62.95
>
>How do these prices sound?

Those sound like good prices. I paid $60 for a core 403 to rebuild while I
still drove the Electra. I can't believe the transmissions are so cheap! And
is that for a posi rear axle?

One thing to ponder; a rebuilt 350 would have fewer cubic inches, but a
higher rpm range at which it could safely make power. If you want the
absolute in reliability, you could get the same amount of hp from a 350 as
you would a 403, just that you'd have to spin it about 500-1000rpm higher to
do so, and worry less about weak main webs and blown head gaskets,
especially if you started with a pre-'77 block. In addition, you can get
high-compression pistons for a 350 much cheaper than the full-custom
high-compression 403 pistons ($300, vs. $650, approx). Just something to
think about, if you could live with either less power, or want stiffer gears
to make the same power.

I don't want to give you the wrong impression; I'm happy with my 403. There
are just some compromises involved, and I wanted you to be able to take them
into consideration.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 22:19:45 +0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: '62 F-85 Parts

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
> 
> The H*LP word again... forwarding.
> 
> Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
> 
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From:   "LCPL JACKS AIMD/IMO3  X7402" <j3910@boxer.navy.mil>
> Date:   Sat, 19 Jul 1997 04:54:12 +0000
> 
> I am in need of some help. I need some parts for a '62 Olds F-85. I
> need the 2-brl carb rebuilt or a new direct replacement. If anyone
> has the four barrel manifold and carb for the '62 F-85 that might be
> an option. I am also gonna be puting an MSD coil and 6A has anybody
> got some good word on that. I am asking for full cooperation
> considering I am overseas right now and only have E-mail access and
> mail.
> 
> thanx
> 
> Ben
> '62 Olds F-85
> '68 Olds 442

Ben,

I don't have a lead on the 2-barrel carb, but I have a 4-barrel
manifold.  I used a Carter AFB on it for a while when I was fixing my
turbo.  The AFB's are easily found & do perk up that 215.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 23:33:44 -0400
From: "Thomas G. Stoner" <tgstoner@umich.edu>
Subject: Still Time to Order List Member ID Buttons

Oldsmobile and Toronado list member button orders which I've received
have all been processed and sent out via First Class Mail.  If I've
received an order from you I've already confirmed it via an E-Mail
message and your buttons should be in the mail which will arrive by the
middle of next week, at the latest.  There is still a little time left
for me to process additional orders and get the buttons to you before
you leave for the Centennial Celebration so in case anyone else would
like to get some of these, I'm posting the ordering information here
once again.

**************
If you would like an easy way to identify yourself as a list member at
the Oldsmobile Centennial Celebration in Lansing (or any other
Oldsmobile event for that matter), I have an economical solution.  I
have created the following designs which have been produced as 2-1/4
inch diameter pin-on buttons.  Each design is laser printed in black, on
goldenrod stock.  Designs and prices are as follow:

Just the ³at² sign - This most simple identification is just the
universal e-mail address symbol, approximately 1-3/4 inches in diameter,
printed in black on the button.  $1.00 each. ($1.40 Canadian)

Oldsmobile @ - This design has the same 1-3/4 inch diameter ³at² sign as
the button above, printed in a light grey as a background and with the
Oldsmobile list address (oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca) overprinted on two
lines in black block letters.  $1.00 each. ($1.40 Canadian)

Toro @ - This button uses the same design as the one above, but has
toro@armchair.mb.ca printed over the @ sign for the Toronado list
members.  $1.00 each. ($1.40 Canadian)

Personalized @ - Again, I¹ve used the 1-3/4 inch diameter ³at² sign as a
background in light grey and can overprint one to four short lines of
the text of your choice.  On the button I made for myself, I have ³Tom
Stoner² on the first line, ³Ann Arbor, MI² on the second line, and
³tgstoner@umich.edu² on the third line.  Since there are more characters
in the line with my e-mail address, that line is in slightly smaller
type.  E-mail me with your ideas before you order any of these, and I¹ll
try to give you an answer on how well we can make it fit and keep the
letters big and readable from a distance.  $2.00 each. ($2.50 Canadian)

Really custom buttons - If you have any other ideas for buttons which
you would like to have made, e-mail me.  Many different designs are
possible with the equipment which I have, including photo buttons.  They
need not be Oldsmobile related either.  Label your kids!  Prices would
vary by design, from $1.00 to $3.00 each.

Shipping and handling - To addresses in the United States / Canada, via
First Class Mail:  1 button       - $1.00 / $1.40
       2 or 3 buttons - $1.25 / $1.75
       4 to 6 buttons - $1.50 / $2.10
       7 or 8 buttons - $1.75 / $2.45

Send your order, including all necessary informaton including your
shipping address and check or money order to:

       Thomas G. Stoner
       2521 James Street
       Ann Arbor, MI 48104-6303

E-mail me, if you would like an order form sent to you via fax.  Thank
you.

          ===
+======= | | | = Tom Stoner =======================+
|        | | |   OCA #3943                         |
|        |/|\|   Ann Arbor, Michigan               |
|        | | |   1979 Hurst/Olds (It's for sale!)  |
|         ===    tgstoner@umich.edu                |
+==================================================+

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 22:29:31 +0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: Smog Adventure

James Thingwold wrote:
> 
> My point in relaying this story for the most part (Dr. Bob) is that this
> car seems to be one of those 'tight' ones, everything  works, works well
> and has never been touched, disassembled, etc.  That just proves it was put
> together right to begin with.
> 
> I have no desire to change a thing on it - I love taking it to shows &
> having guys go "Gee, that's all original" LITERALLY.  Nah, it doesn't have
> the original battery, or spark plug wires, but virtually everything else is
> 30 yrs. old & still works great.
> 
> Looking at keeping it this way to till.......? and never restoring unless I
> come into big bucks (doubt theres a chance of that).
> 
> Lisa Madsen
> 
> Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '72 Vista Cruiser
> , '69 Toronado
> 
> Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com
> 
> My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/


Lisa,

I just got home form the Louisville AACA nationals.  The HPOF (original)
cars were very popuolar there.  Everyone wants to know how their car was
originally built.  People poured over these things & took pictures from
every corner.  

You are wise to preserve an original car.  They are very valuable.  They
also draw a crowd as big as the restored ones.  It doesn't cost
thousands to do it this way either.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 22:38:43 +0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: '62 F-85 Parts

Robert Barry wrote:
> 
> At 11:39 PM 7/18/97 -0300, you wrote:
> >I am in need of some help. I need some parts for a '62 Olds F-85. I
> >need the 2-brl carb rebuilt or a new direct replacement. If anyone
> >has the four barrel manifold and carb for the '62 F-85 that might be
> >an option.
> 
> Would the Olds 215 use the same intakes as the Buick 215? (I know the head
> bolt patterns are different, but don't know about the intake manifold to
> head bolt pattern). If so, then your best bet would probably be an
> aftermarket unit made for the Buick/Rover 215. Plenty of parts for those
> engines made over in Britain and Australia.
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  

Bob,

The Buick & Olds heads are different, but the parts are
interchangeable.  Olds just wanted a different combustion chamber
shape.  Buick built & developed these engines for Buick, Olds &
Pontiac.  The Buick & Pontiac are identical.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 23:44:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: CRuper1@aol.com
Subject: Re: rear end gears 364

In a message dated 97-07-14 08:40:56 EDT, you write:

<< I am looking for a set of 364 rear end gears for an Olds powered 40 
 Willys hot rod. Does anyone have any idea were he can get these..
                               Thank You Larry  Wb3kjg
     6    2    s    t    a    r    f    i    r    e >>

Hot Rod magazine had one of these in their drag race coverage (or was it a
car show/drag race weekend thing?...), was it the same vehicle?  Looked like
a pretty wild ride, and all they did was give a pic., and the blurb under the
pic saying it was an Olds (blown) powered Willys.

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 22:53:09 +0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: Convertible Speakers

Lloyd Ferguson wrote:
> 
> I have recently purchased a 69 Cutlass convertible and would like to
> upgrade the orginal AM mono radio system.  Does anyone know if these cars
> came with factory rear Stereo speakers, where and how are they are mounted?
> Also were there front speakers other than the one in the center?
> 
> Lloyd Ferguson


Lloyd,

There was only one factory speaker in the center of the dash.  There are
openings for 2 6x9's in the bracing behind the rear seat (top well
area).  Of course, if these are used when the top is down expect muffled
garbled sounds.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 23:37:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Subject: R-406a observations (Re: R-12 to R-134a)

Hi Dave,

> purchased, for the ~other car~, a new compressor (which came with R-134a
> oil, hmmmm) and a new reciever/drier (which is both R-12 and R-134a
> compatible).  Since I will be opening the system and replacing these
> parts anyway, I figured I *mightaswell* change it over to R-134a, if

A few weeks ago, I converted my '80 Fleetwood over to R-406a.  When I
purchased this car in 1990, the A/C was inoperative.  The accumulator had
become porous, so as a temporary fix, I cleaned then epoxied the entire
outside surface.  Over the next 6 years, ~1.75 pounds leaked out, to the
point where the cooling was affected; I now had an excuse to install a new
accumulator.  Despite possessing a good supply of R-12, I decided to try some
R-406a.  I purchased a 25 lb (eq. to 30 lbs of R-12) container of R-406a
for $225 Cdn, but by the time the $50 deposit for the reusable storage tank
and taxes were added, the total came to $300 Canadian (about $220 U.S.).

Since R-406a weighs less than R-12, only 3 pounds (system capacity is 3.75
lbs R-12) was needed.  R-406a must be charged as a liquid to maintain its
composition, so the charging process goes very quickly.  I am very pleased
with the results.  As claimed, it performs as well or better than R-12!
On the same 90F day, it produced 41F vent discharge temperatures, about
3-4F colder than my freshly R-12 charged Delta 88.  R-406a is fully
compatible with R-12 dessicants and mineral oil, which cannot be said for
R-134a.  With R-134a, you will also see a decrease in A/C performance,
which will be especially noticeable in Florida.  If you can, try to
exchange that compressor for one with mineral oil, and use R-406a.

Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Jul 1997 01:49:53 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Smog Adventure

Lloyd W. Culp wrote:
> 
> Mike Frederick wrote:
> >
> > Dan Lacey wrote:
> > >
> > > Frustrated and ONLY buying pre 1966 cars from now on...
> >
> > Move.  In Florida, the rules start with the 1975 model year.  :)
> >
> >     66 Toro
> > The /\   /\ and Mike
> 
> Come to Alabama.  No one knows the rules or cares.
> 
> Bill Culp
> Decatur, Alabama
> 
> P.S.  Possibly we can't read them!
Bill,

Thought about you as I went past the Decatur exit going to and from Fla
last week and waved.  As the old Town Car's a/c worked when it wanted to
and my oldest daughter was having a fit to get home and see her idiot
boyfriend, we kept on motoring.  Quick, but hot trip home.  From
Enterprise, Al to Nicholasville, Ky (600 miles) in 8 1/2 hours including
gas, food and other stops.  

One of these days we are going to have time to make a trip at a
reasonable pace and stop to make new friends and renew old ones.  When
my father-in-law died three years ago and my mother-in-law moved in with
us in Ky, we left a lot of good friendships in B-ham.  There sure is a
lot of nice people down in Alabama.

Later,

Don

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #764
********************************

