To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #768


oldsmobile-digest       Thursday, July 24 1997       Volume 01 : Number 768



Re: 1974 442
RE: Size of orignal tires for 81 Cutlass Supreme
Re: 455 Toro for a Cutlass Manifold?
Re: 1974 442
[none]

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Jul 1997 22:06:59 -0400
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: 1974 442

At 05:13 PM 7/23/97 -0500, you wrote:
>>>4. What you should fix first (and check first) when getting an old car
>>>in bad shape to fix up.
>
>1) [Eric's really good advice on inspecting the brake system snipped...]

Definitely the brakes. I'd just have to add that it would be worth your
while to check the seals on the wheel-cylinders (which are likely leaking by
now) and just how free the caliper piston slides in and out (while the seals
don't leak that often, the piston will likely freeze or bind, resulting in
poor, uneven, or generally just "exciting" braking, which you don't want).

Also, adjust the parking brake.

>2) Go over the cooling system; make sure the thing won't overheat
>and blow its elderly gaskets the first time you push it hard.

Flush it out thoroughly; you'll be *shocked* at what comes out of there! And
replace the hoses (radiator and heater); they're cheap enough, and if
they've been sitting for any length of time, they may go at any instant (or
last another decade, but do you want to do the empirical investigation on
this with a car you're driving?). Also make sure that the proper pressure
cap is on there.

2a) GREASE THE SUSPENSION! (I meant to shout) All tie-rods, ball-joints,
steering linkage, etc., and while you're at it, check for missing cotter
pins, loose nuts, worn pieces, etc. After stopping, turning takes priority.

>3) This sounds picky, but make sure your headlights work well.
>The first time you're out on a summer evening and it gets dark
>(especially with rain as well), you don't want to suddenly
>discover that you can't see where the hell you're going. Betcha
>your headlamps are currently pointing at the ground... or up in
>the trees if the rear suspension is droopy.

While you're at it, make sure that all your car's bulbs are working
properly, as well as turn signals, flashers, interior bulbs, running lights,
backup lights, the whole thing. Also make sure that all the electrical
connections are tight and clean; if a connector won't come off now, it's not
going to get better, so clean up any terminals that have corroded now, to
save yourself problems in the future. Also make sure your ground straps are
in place, and the connections are clean. Likewise, make sure the alternator
and regulator system is charging properly. (always better to test it with
instruments beforehand, than subjecting it to a trial by fire that it might
fail when you really need to get somewhere)

>4) Go over the expendables: filters, fluids, etc. Make sure it's
>all fresh and reliable. After the first oil and filter change (which
>you've already done, right? :-) give it just a few hundred miles or
>until the oil goes really black, whichever comes first, then change
>oil and filter again. For about $7 or whatever you spend, you'll
>achieve a good desludging of the engine that way.

Also make sure the rear axle lube is up to its proper level; you don't want
to run too low on this, and then experience the pleasure of finding and
swapping in another axle. Also re-grease the front wheel bearings, and
torque them down properly, and don't forget the cotter pin.

5) If the tires are older, you may want to replace them, even if there's
plenty of tread left on them, since they may be dry-rotted and the only way
to really find out is to drive at highway speeds and blow out a tire.

6) LUBE YOUR LOCKS! Graphite or something similar, to make sure they
continue to operate freely. They can freeze up solid without warning.

7) Replace all vacuum lines with new hoses, making sure the lines are
properly routed (I have *yet* to buy a car where they are properly routed!),
and replace the fan belts (see note about hoses above). I also would replace
the rubber fuel hoses from the hard line on the frame to the fuel pump and
to the fuel tank (having these crack is a bad thing). One trick I've
learned, while you're down there, to keep the fuel pump from
self-destructing, is to add an in-line fuel filter before the fuel pump,
preferrably with a clear housing, to keep any built-up sediment in the tank
from entering the fuel pump. Also make sure you have the proper type of gas
cap on there (vented/non-vented).

8) If you haven't already done so, give your car a basic tuneup to factory
specs.

Most of the above things (except for the tires) are cheap and very easy to
do, and will save you innumerable headaches down the line. They kind of read
like a list of things I wish *I'd* done to most of my cars, before I found
out the hard way... :(
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Jul 1997 18:47:25 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <adcockjk@erols.com>
Subject: RE: Size of orignal tires for 81 Cutlass Supreme

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC9799.156D3400
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

On mine, 205/70R14's were the stock size, but I have the F41 suspension =
package.  I believe the 195/75R14's Charlie mentioned were the size for =
cars without the upgraded suspension.  I don't know about wheels, =
though.  Are all the SSIII wheels 14x6?  My chromed superstock wheels =
are 14x6, but I think the dog dish wheels with hubcaps were 14x5.5.  =
Maybe all the cars with the 14x6's had the 205's and all the 5.5" folks =
had the 195's...

 Jason Adcock
 OCA ª028044
 adcockjk@erols.com

 1984 Cutlass Calais RWD V8
 75K Miles, CC1, F41, LV2, N66
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason/cutlass.html
 Also viewable through http://www.442.com

- -----Original Message-----
From:Charley Buehner [SMTP:buehner@lyrea.com]
Sent:Tuesday, July 22, 1997 9:04 PM
To:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:Re: Size of orignal tires for 81 Cutlass Supreme

uknowme wrote:
>=20
> Hi all
> I was wondering if anyone could tell me the original size of tires =
that
> came on the 81 Cutlass Supreme??? I have put on 245 60 14 on it now =
and
> I am wondering how this affects my speedo accuracy, I heard the =
formula
> for calculating your speed with different tires is: original tire size
> divided by new tire size X speed =3D actuaul speed is this true? I
> wouldn't want any speeding tickets.
>  THANKS

I guess the most common ones on their was the 195-75R14 or 205-70R14.  I
~think~ that's right, that's what I'd seen the most of on em...

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 01:24:05 -0400
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: 455 Toro for a Cutlass Manifold?

At 12:42 PM 7/21/97 -0500, you wrote:
>  Some time ago I picked up a '68 455 out of a Toronado.  For my '65 442
>I've got the original manifold, the Toro manifold, and a Torker.  As the
>Toro manifold had a noticable depression in the center, I'd like to swap it
>for a non-EGR '68-'70 400-455 manifold.  Anyone with a Toronado interested
>in a straight up swap out there?

For the '68 Toro motor I'm swapping into my SX, I'm going to stick with the
original Toro 4-bbl, just because it's on there, and it doesn't cause much
of a restriction. If you want a 4-bbl intake, but not a low-rise Toro unit,
then what about the stock one from your '65? Or do you want to run a
spreadbore carb like the Quadrajet, rather than a square-bore like your
'65's original 4GC? One thing to watch out for; up to '69, the carbs used a
divorced choke coil, which sat in a pocket in the intake manifold, wheras
after they used the integral choke that depended upon a hot air pipe. Get an
intake to match your carb.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Jul 1997 22:06:59 -0400
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: 1974 442

At 05:13 PM 7/23/97 -0500, you wrote:
>>>4. What you should fix first (and check first) when getting an old car
>>>in bad shape to fix up.
>
>1) [Eric's really good advice on inspecting the brake system snipped...]

Definitely the brakes. I'd just have to add that it would be worth your
while to check the seals on the wheel-cylinders (which are likely leaking by
now) and just how free the caliper piston slides in and out (while the seals
don't leak that often, the piston will likely freeze or bind, resulting in
poor, uneven, or generally just "exciting" braking, which you don't want).

Also, adjust the parking brake.

>2) Go over the cooling system; make sure the thing won't overheat
>and blow its elderly gaskets the first time you push it hard.

Flush it out thoroughly; you'll be *shocked* at what comes out of there! And
replace the hoses (radiator and heater); they're cheap enough, and if
they've been sitting for any length of time, they may go at any instant (or
last another decade, but do you want to do the empirical investigation on
this with a car you're driving?). Also make sure that the proper pressure
cap is on there.

2a) GREASE THE SUSPENSION! (I meant to shout) All tie-rods, ball-joints,
steering linkage, etc., and while you're at it, check for missing cotter
pins, loose nuts, worn pieces, etc. After stopping, turning takes priority.

>3) This sounds picky, but make sure your headlights work well.
>The first time you're out on a summer evening and it gets dark
>(especially with rain as well), you don't want to suddenly
>discover that you can't see where the hell you're going. Betcha
>your headlamps are currently pointing at the ground... or up in
>the trees if the rear suspension is droopy.

While you're at it, make sure that all your car's bulbs are working
properly, as well as turn signals, flashers, interior bulbs, running lights,
backup lights, the whole thing. Also make sure that all the electrical
connections are tight and clean; if a connector won't come off now, it's not
going to get better, so clean up any terminals that have corroded now, to
save yourself problems in the future. Also make sure your ground straps are
in place, and the connections are clean. Likewise, make sure the alternator
and regulator system is charging properly. (always better to test it with
instruments beforehand, than subjecting it to a trial by fire that it might
fail when you really need to get somewhere)

>4) Go over the expendables: filters, fluids, etc. Make sure it's
>all fresh and reliable. After the first oil and filter change (which
>you've already done, right? :-) give it just a few hundred miles or
>until the oil goes really black, whichever comes first, then change
>oil and filter again. For about $7 or whatever you spend, you'll
>achieve a good desludging of the engine that way.

Also make sure the rear axle lube is up to its proper level; you don't want
to run too low on this, and then experience the pleasure of finding and
swapping in another axle. Also re-grease the front wheel bearings, and
torque them down properly, and don't forget the cotter pin.

5) If the tires are older, you may want to replace them, even if there's
plenty of tread left on them, since they may be dry-rotted and the only way
to really find out is to drive at highway speeds and blow out a tire.

6) LUBE YOUR LOCKS! Graphite or something similar, to make sure they
continue to operate freely. They can freeze up solid without warning.

7) Replace all vacuum lines with new hoses, making sure the lines are
properly routed (I have *yet* to buy a car where they are properly routed!),
and replace the fan belts (see note about hoses above). I also would replace
the rubber fuel hoses from the hard line on the frame to the fuel pump and
to the fuel tank (having these crack is a bad thing). One trick I've
learned, while you're down there, to keep the fuel pump from
self-destructing, is to add an in-line fuel filter before the fuel pump,
preferrably with a clear housing, to keep any built-up sediment in the tank
from entering the fuel pump. Also make sure you have the proper type of gas
cap on there (vented/non-vented).

8) If you haven't already done so, give your car a basic tuneup to factory
specs.

Most of the above things (except for the tires) are cheap and very easy to
do, and will save you innumerable headaches down the line. They kind of read
like a list of things I wish *I'd* done to most of my cars, before I found
out the hard way... :(
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date:
From:
Subject: [none]



------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª768
********************************
