To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #717


oldsmobile-digest           Friday, 13 June 1997        Volume 01 : Number 717

High HC's
Re: HIGH HC's
1984 Olds 307 4bbl
Re: 1984 Olds 307 4bbl
Re: Rear bumper interchangability
homecoming schedule
Re: 70 Olds 442--info needed
Re: Rear bumper interchangability
Re: Control arm blues
Re: Control arm blues
Re: Control arm blues
Re: looking for parts
Re: HIGH HC's
Olds 403 in a Trans AM
Re: Control arn blues
Re: August Oldsmobile Meeting
B, O, or P 455? Which is better?
Re: Rear bumper interchangability
Re: Rear bumper interchangability
Re: R-12 Pressure
Re: K- code Oldsmobile???
Re: Olds 403 in a Trans AM
Re: B, O, or P 455? Which is better?
Hall's Salvage Number/Headers
Re: K- code Oldsmobile???
442/Cutlass Parts For Sale
Re: R-12 Pressure
Re: Hall's Salvage Number/Headers
Re: Hall's Salvage Number/Headers
Re: Hall's Salvage Number/Headers
Re: Olds 403 in a Trans AM
Olds experience
Re: 1984 Olds 307 4bbl
Re: Mondello Olds Nats
Re: looking for parts
Re: Rear bumper interchangability
Re: 70 Olds 442--info needed
Re: K- code Oldsmobile???
Re: B, O, or P 455? Which is better?
Re: B, O, or P 455? Which is better?
Deep Direct Drum?
Back In A Week
Re: B, O, or P 455? Which is better?
Re: homecoming schedule
thermostat. cooling system
Oldsmobile Events in Maryland
Re: Olds 307
Re: Oldsmobile Events in Maryland
can't get valve cover off.
Re: Olds 403 in a Trans AM

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Gil Russell" <Russellg@dmv.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 20:15:13 -0300
Subject: High HC's

While I agree with you, in this model Olds there isn't a lot to tune.  Once
I did the timing, electrical and compression checks the only thing left was
to begin to replacing questionable ignition and emission  parts (reference
my previous message for the list of replacements I made).  My repair manual
stated that the 1984 4bbl carb has no manual air/fuel adjustments.  No
sensor trouble lights were displayed and the timing, compression and
ignition checked out.

So with that said what did I miss to properly tune my car?

If you get a chance check out this web site and let me know what you
thought of their approach to correcting emission problems.  Based on what I
read they made good
sense.http://www.colostate.edu/Depts/NCVECS/research.docs/repairs_index..htm
l




Gil,
while the cat solved your problem properly tuned your car should have
passed
without it.Just my .02c
Frank

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 20:18:36 -0300
Subject: Re: HIGH HC's

   I don't know if you have any controll over your ignition timing,
considering that you have a ECM in the car --- but it has long been my
experience that when you are running too much ignition timing advance it will
dramaticly increase your HC emissions.  The best way i know of, of being able
to tell if you are running too much ignition timing at idle is if you get an
occasional misfire from the engine (kind of like a mild hiccup) or it seems
to hesitate a little bit or have a flat spot when you are making the
transition from about half throttle to full throttle.
   Unfortunatly i have yet to have the chance to fiddle with a computer
controlled car but i have been told that the timing is adjustable on the
middle to early 80's GM vehicles -- it had something to do with resetting the
timing then stopping the engine and disconnecting the negative battery
terminal for about 30 seconds to a minute and then  reconnecting it --
starting the engine again checking the timing and then resetting the timing
to your desired settings.   If there is anybody out there who has had
experience with this procedure i would love to hear and learn more about it.

      Hope that helps some.

                                         J2RKT@aol.com


P.S.   Check your fuel filter -- that could also cause a lean fuel mixture
wich would
          also cause a lean burn high HC emissions problem.

------------------------------

From: "Gil Russell" <Russellg@dmv.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 20:19:49 -0300
Subject: 1984 Olds 307 4bbl

Is there or is there not a way to manually adjust the Air/Fuel Mixture on
this year carb?

------------------------------

From: Frank <PLPAUDIO@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 19:44:23 -0300
Subject: Re: 1984 Olds 307 4bbl

Gil Russell wrote:
>
> Is there or is there not a way to manually adjust the Air/Fuel Mixture on
> this year carb?

I am not sure but earlier smog carbs had the idle screws underneath
metal plugs.
You drill out the plugs and you now have a regular adjustable idle
circuit.
Frank
70 442
71 442 W30 convt
72 Cutlass S
90 Lsc s\e

------------------------------

From: "Easton,Jeffrey" <Jeff.Easton@abbott.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 20:41:12 -0300
Subject: Re: Rear bumper interchangability

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>

>That sounds like plenty enough work, but nothing compared to the '69 I
>saw a few weeks ago at a car show, that sported a '70-'72 dashboard! Why
>someone would go to all that trouble baffled me...

Since the ignition key is on the dash in '69 and on the column in 70, how
did he start the car?  :-)

- -Jeff

jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com

1970  442  4-Speed

------------------------------

From: Mr57olds@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 20:42:07 -0300
Subject: homecoming schedule

does anyone have information on times at homcoming 6-14 in lansing??
 registration from --- to --- and swap meet times.    thanks,  mr.57olds
   two  57's and two '64 cutlass's

------------------------------

From: "Easton,Jeffrey" <Jeff.Easton@abbott.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 20:48:37 -0300
Subject: Re: 70 Olds 442--info needed

From: Don Foster <dfoster@uky.campus.mci.net>

> I'm looking for any info. on the 1970 442 I can get. There is one I'm
>considering buying but I'm not real
>familiar with these monsters. Always have been partial to Olds 455's. The
>owner puts it at very good condition
>but says the bumpers are original? Am going to look at it Saturday and this
>is what info. I've gotten so far.
>  455 engine
>  E-heads
>  1022 Muncie 4 spd.
>  3:42 gears in rear end
>  1970 W-30 Ram Air hood
>  7000 miles since rebuild-engine only
>  170,000 on car

Hmm.  Sounds just like my car.  Better check my garage when I
get home... :-)

I assume the trans is a M-21 Muncie?  Someone will correct me if
I'm wrong, but I dont think the M-22 Rock Crusher was available
on 442's in 1970.

Hopefully the 3.42 rear is a posi.  Check for evidence of a little
metal tag that is/used to be bolted to one of the rear cover bolts.

Do all the other usual stuff like check the partial vin stamped on the
block, check for rust, make sure the ram air hood is original (fiberglass
glued to a steel support),  see the FAQ for details.

>Their asking $7000.00.

For that many miles, it sounds high to me too.

- -Jeff
jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com

1970  442  4-speed

------------------------------

From: daveleck@atlcom.net (David Leck)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 22:01:14 -0300
Subject: Re: Rear bumper interchangability

>>That sounds like plenty enough work, but nothing compared to the '69 I
>>saw a few weeks ago at a car show, that sported a '70-'72 dashboard! Why
>>someone would go to all that trouble baffled me...
>
>Since the ignition key is on the dash in '69 and on the column in 70, how
>did he start the car?  :-)

You're thinking of a 68.  The key on a 69 is on the column.  (Either that
or somebody tampered with my 69 big-time!)

Dave

daveleck@atlcom.net
www.atlcom.net/~daveleck/olds

------------------------------

From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 21:19:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Control arm blues

>        The control arms I have are almost N.O.S.

Just out of curiosity, how much are they?

>I do have a NEW center link available for $42.00
>plus
>shipping, which should be about $6.00. This is not a GM center link
>but it's
>made by McQuay Norris if your interested.

I went down to AutoZone today to see if they had them and they do!  They
have new McQuay Norris available for $45, and they provide a lifetime
warranty on it.  So, I'll just get that from them.

Thanks..

Dave

------------------------------

From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 21:19:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Control arm blues

>Maybe I can pay you back here for the T-3's, I've got the control arm
>on my
>'72 V-C parts car.  Will check on the center link.  How about it?

Oh, yeah, sounds great!  The sooner the better, and THANKS!

Dave

------------------------------

From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 21:19:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Control arm blues

>Just beware these parts have a
>service
>life somewhere short of 200,000 miles.

I didn't know that...and my Cutlass just turned over 204,000 miles.

>From someone who's been there (sucks to lose a ball joint while
>driving..)

Well, that hasn't happened (yet..)  I hope I can get it fixed brfore it
does; I'm sure it's not fun.


Dave Paulison                    1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida                1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com

------------------------------

From: "Suzanne Rousseau" <ewok@clarkston.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 22:07:31 -0300
Subject: Re: looking for parts

- ----------
> From: Chad Michael Tearney <tearney@csd.uwm.edu>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: looking for parts
> Date: Thursday, June 12, 1997 1:29 PM
>
> Hey all, hope you can help.  I'm looking for a right fender, right
> quarter, right door, rocker panel, quarter window, and all the trim for
> the right side of my 67' Cutlass.  I've been searching for a while and
> have come up empty handed.  Guess i'm just looking in the wrong places.
> I would greatly appreciate any leads to these parts.  Thanks.
>
>
> Chad Tearney
> tearney@csd.uwm.edu
>
> 1967 Cutlass
>
>
>

Is that a Cutlass or a Cutlass Supreme(442)?  I have a complete set of side
mouldings from my '67 442 (except wheel opening trims) that is for sale.

Paul Rousseau
*1967 -Trimless- 442

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 22:25:44 -0300
Subject: Re: HIGH HC's

At 08:18 PM 6/12/97 -0300, J2RKT@aol.com wrote:

>   Unfortunatly i have yet to have the chance to fiddle with a computer
>controlled car but i have been told that the timing is adjustable on the
>middle to early 80's GM vehicles -- it had something to do with resetting the
>timing then stopping the engine and disconnecting the negative battery
>terminal for about 30 seconds to a minute and then  reconnecting it --
>starting the engine again checking the timing and then resetting the timing
>to your desired settings.   If there is anybody out there who has had
>experience with this procedure i would love to hear and learn more about it.

I can speak from experience with my 93 LT1350 powered Z/28. In this car the
timing is continuosly being retarded or advanced.  To reset the ECM in this
car requires the computer to be disconnected for 15 min. For instance when I
add modifications to my car I always unhookthe computer after I install a
part then rehook it up 15-30 min later so the computer "learns" the new part
faster. Resetting it makes the computer forget the old part more quickly.
All this technology is nice, but sometimes it makes me appreciate my
non-computer controlled 80 442 when it acts up ;-)

- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com) or (Olds442@Rocketship.com)
93 Camaro Z/28...........http://www.kxan.com/~rwillis/labay.html
80 Olds 442 W-30........http://www.442.com./labay.htm

------------------------------

From: "Mitch Warren" <mitchntx@flash.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 22:43:37 -0300
Subject: Olds 403 in a Trans AM

I'm in dire need of some serious help here.  I've been lurking for a while
now and rarely see postings concerning the OLDS 403.   I am in process of
building a 6.6L Olds to replace the Pontiac sloth (4.9L) in my '81.

The 6.6L is from a '79 Tenth Anniversary TA.  What kind of starting point
is this?  Any books or manuals I can get my hands on?

What I need is suggestions (nothing radical or rare) on intake, heads and
stock exhaust that swaps from ??? to a 403 block.  I plan on making this
engine a work in progress, targeting next spring as the install date.
Cleaning up the block, reworking the heads/intake/exhaust, etc. are gonna
take time if done correctly.  What about engine internals?  Cam?  Carb?
Ignition?

I want to keep the car smog legal and have all the accessories work (AC,
cruise, in dash tach, etc.)

Are my goals too lofty?

Mitch Warren
mitchntx@flash.net

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 12:53:34 -0300
Subject: Re: Control arn blues

>I made a scary discovery today while working on the Cutlass.  I was under
>the front of the car, changing the broken motor mounts (dang torque!) and
>greasing the front end, and found that the lower left control arm is
>cracked on the outer part of the radius around the ball joint.  I'm sure
>this must have happened when I got smacked in the left fender a while
>back; probably started as a very small crack and has enlarged over time.
>Anyway, I will be junkyarding this weekend to look for one (unless
>someone here has one for real cheap and in a hurry).  I was wondering if
>I could get one from any 68-72 (or 64-72?) A-body I might happen to find?
> Are there any other GM cars with one that would fit?  I'm really
>uncomfortable driving the car now...

I've read in Hot Rod about people welding a steel plate in under the entire
lower A-arm to increase stregnth and decrease flexibility.  It's supposed to
improve handling.  I assume you leave a 3-inch or so round hole in it to get
to the shock.  Doesn't seem like a bad idea after hearing about all these
people breaking the darn things.  Especially since my Vista-Cruiser (daily
driver) just  turned over 175,000 today on the interstate.


Greg Pruett
`72 Vista-Cruiser
`67 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: "Steve B." <steveb@thecia.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 22:48:24 -0300
Subject: Re: August Oldsmobile Meeting

Timothy A. Churchill wrote:
>
> > Hey Tim C. I think you said something awhile ago about a car show in
> > Epping NH. this August. Is this show still on? I am planning to go the
> > Seabrook Beach NH. this summer and would like to go to the show. Any
> > more info about this would be helpful. Thanks alot...
>
> Tweren't me who said it; this is the first I've heard of it.  Anyone?
>
> BTW, I saw a real nice '66 convertible a couple of years ago, doing
> the 'cruise' at Hampton Beach (in Seabrook NH)... I *think* it was just
> a Cutlass, not a 4-4-2... the kid driving it claimed it had the triple
> carb set up.
>
> Maybe you'll see it there...
>
> Tim Churchill
> -------------
> '67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
> '89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
> '91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'


Yes, there is a Oldsmobile show up at New England dragway...I went to
this in '95 (couldn't make it last year). It is mostly racing but there
is a small car show area that had about 15 to 20 cars....I am planning
on having my car up there for a few runs down the track this year...This
event is on saturday August 16...Hope to see some of you guys there!!

If you need directions to NED just click on this link....

http://www.ultranet.com/~fortes/ned/ned.htm

Steve
71 Cutlass S 455
93 Mustang LX 5.0

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 22:49:29 -0300
Subject: B, O, or P 455? Which is better?

Ok, time to start some flame wars on the list ;-) Anyway I am looking for
some honest, unbiased opinions from the list on which manufacturer made a
455 with the most potential as a street/strip performer? Putting obvious
Oldsmobile bias aside:-) The top 445 that I can think of for each
manufacturer (I am missing some I know) are the 69 H/O 455, 70 Buick GSX
Stage 1 455, and the 73 Pontiac Trans Am 455 SD. I was mainly looking for
opinions from those on the list that have built, driven or raced the other's
455's.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com) or (Olds442@Rocketship.com)
93 Camaro Z/28...........http://www.kxan.com/~rwillis/labay.html
80 Olds 442 W-30........http://www.442.com./labay.htm

------------------------------

From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 22:54:29 -0300
Subject: Re: Rear bumper interchangability

>Since the ignition key is on the dash in '69 and on the column in 70,
>how
>did he start the car?  :-)

Wow, my '69 must be rare.  The key is on the column, not the dash.  Could
this be a K-code car?

You're probably thinking of a '68.  The change to column mounted ignition
was made in 1969.


Dave Paulison                    1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida                1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com

------------------------------

From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 23:19:20 -0300
Subject: Re: Rear bumper interchangability

David Leck wrote:
>
> >>That sounds like plenty enough work, but nothing compared to the '69 I
> >>saw a few weeks ago at a car show, that sported a '70-'72 dashboard! Why
> >>someone would go to all that trouble baffled me...
> >
> >Since the ignition key is on the dash in '69 and on the column in 70, how
> >did he start the car?  :-)
>
> You're thinking of a 68.  The key on a 69 is on the column.  (Either that
> or somebody tampered with my 69 big-time!)
>
> Dave
>
> daveleck@atlcom.net
> www.atlcom.net/~daveleck/olds
My 69 S conv is on the column as is my 70 Supreme conv and 72 442.
Don't know about before 1969 for sure though.

Don Sowers
dstaxpro@lex.infi.net

------------------------------

From: MPHeiser@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 23:28:48 -0300
Subject: Re: R-12 Pressure

If you have a set of a/c gauges, put the blue one on the low side of the
system...it should read about 30-35 pounds while it's on.  That will give you
an idea if it's working properly. If it's higher, you ned a charge.

Mark Heiser

------------------------------

From: Kevin Hoopingarner <khooping@mail.bright.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 23:34:49 -0300
Subject: Re: K- code Oldsmobile???

 (At 09:51 AM 6/12/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Something I left out in my first post.  The red car that the guy's
>father had owned was originally Sebring Yellow.  He also mentioned how
>it was a special order car.  The special order part is what got me to
>wondering if there was anything to this.  The owner of the car I was
>looking at had somewhat of a history on the car and claimed that it was
>also a special order due to the combination of options.  As I said
>before, this all may be B.S. from both guys.  But similar stories about
>two different cars 10 years apart.  I do know that there are two
>different cars involved.  Kevin Hoopingarner, who is on this list bought
>the car I was looking at.  Kevin if you are out there, can you help?
>
>Dave Wyatt
>70  4-4-2

Dave,

History:  The 70 W-30 was originally purchased by an older gentlemen at the
Olds dealership in Linton In.  In 1984 I tried to get the invoice
information for it but none was available.  The dealership went through
their archives but could not find it.  Funny enough, one of the salesmen
there remembered the car and it's color scheme.  (sebring yellow with astro
blue stripes).  Because of this color combo, he (and others) particularly
remembered getting a good chuckle out of seeing the car when it was
delivered.  The car WAS SPECIAL ordered and as you said, was heavily
optioned. '70 W-30, Holiday Coupe, Automatic, 3.42 or 3.23 rear, A-C, power
discs, power steering, tilt wheel, electric trunk release, rear window
defog, power windows, drivers side power seat, courtesy light, rallye pack,
AM-FM, and wide door stainless trim.  As far as being or knowing of "K"
codes, I do not know.  I don't recall having found the build sheet in the
car under the carpet or in the doors when I took it apart.  Maybe under the
gas tank?  I didn't try getting the info from oldsmobile at the time but
maybe I should have.  I still have the VIN number for the car but not the
trim plate info.   I do remember that the paint code on the trim plate was
open which made me feel a little better about changing the color from
sebring yellow to red.  (I wish I'd have never done that now but that's how
things go when you're young)  Funny enough, when I painted it, I did
originally paint all of the door jams, trunk lid, inside the front fenders,
etc.... sebring yellow and then changed my mind about it b/c I wasn't sure I
was going to like the yellow with the factory blue stripes.

It's very interesting that the car this fellows father owned was also
repainted red with the blue interior.  Art Jensen purchased the car from me,
and I believe it may have been owned by someone between Art and it's current
owner who lives in Danville Ill.  Maybe a connection?? Still may be the same
car.  I was recently in contact with the fellow in Danville  and tried to
buy it back.  (It has alot of sentimental value since I had it when I was in
High School).  He really enjoys the car and doesn't want to sell it.  At
least if I can't have it, I'm happy knowing that someone else appreciates it.


P.S. What ever happened to those parts you got off of the car from Dave
Wynn??  Anything interesting you'd part with?


Kevin Hoopingarner
'70 Olds 442 W-30   -- "Originally Rallye Red and still is"
Findlay, OH.

------------------------------

From: Frank <PLPAUDIO@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 22:56:18 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds 403 in a Trans AM

Mitch Warren wrote:
>
> I'm in dire need of some serious help here.  I've been lurking for a while
> now and rarely see postings concerning the OLDS 403.   I am in process of
> building a 6.6L Olds to replace the Pontiac sloth (4.9L) in my '81.
>
> The 6.6L is from a '79 Tenth Anniversary TA.  What kind of starting point

The 403 is a bored out 350 and any part that works on a smallblock olds
will
work.The edelbrock system is actually very good and is smog legal I
think.
The rpm package is not just the standard but it will really wake it
up,also
you will need to add some better gears as those cars had some hideous
gears
and will counteract any power\rpm increase.A set of 3.4ish gears will be
a
nice all around gear.Keep us posred on your progress.
Frank
70 442
71 442 W30 convt
72 Cutlass S
90 LSC s\e

------------------------------

From: Frank <PLPAUDIO@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 23:01:58 -0300
Subject: Re: B, O, or P 455? Which is better?

Jason Labay wrote:
>
> Ok, time to start some flame wars on the list ;-) Anyway I am looking for
> some honest, unbiased opinions from the list on which manufacturer made a
> 455 with the most potential as a street/strip performer? Putting obvious
> Oldsmobile bias aside:-) The top 445 that I can think of for each
> manufacturer (I am missing some I know) are the 69 H/O 455, 70 Buick GSX
> Stage 1 455, and the 73 Pontiac Trans Am 455 SD. I was mainly looking for
> opinions from those on the list that have built, driven or raced the other's
> 455's.
> - - - - - - - - - - -
> Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com) or (Olds442@Rocketship.com)
> 93 Camaro Z/28...........http://www.kxan.com/~rwillis/labay.html
> 80 Olds 442 W-30........http://www.442.com./labay.htm

They all had much potential but Chevy 454 wins by sheer numbers made,it
got a lot more parts made for it hence more people used it ,this made
parts
cheaper so more people used it,etc,etc.Kind of like domino effect .
Me I never have followed the crowd just led it so I  raced an Olds,
got expensive though.
Just my .02c
Frank
70 442
71 442 w30 convt
72 Cutlass S
90 LSC s\e

------------------------------

From: ngomez@airmail.net (Nick Gomez)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 23:31:42 -0300
Subject: Hall's Salvage Number/Headers

I tried to call Hall's Auto Salvage in Kansas to locate some disc brake
spindles for my Olds, but the one listed on Bryce's web page seems to be
old. Any help? I can't find any spindles around here, I can get some from a
1970 Impala, but I'm not sure if they would fit.

I am going to buy some headers soon, but if anyone here happens to have
some headers for an Olds 455 engine, used or not, let me know. I went to a
shop recently that told me they would fit them, somehow. =)

I finally wrote down some of the info from the Olds' at a salvage yard near
my house. It does cost a $1 to get in, and I doubt they'll let me in for
free anymore, so let me know for sure what you want me to check out. I
saw...

1965 Olds Cutlass F85 convertible
1972 Cutlass Supreme
1971 or 1972 Cutlass
1974 or like Delta 88 convertible

Let me know. Most of the cars had most of their parts, all were pretty
rusty for Texas cars. Probably just surface rust though. They don't have
anything I need, so let me know what you want. I can give anyone directions
in the DFW area.

Well, thanks, and take care!
Nick

     -----------------------------------------------------------
     Nick Gomez       Dallas, Texas     Live Concert Tape Trader
     MSTieª 53344     Ska! Ska! Ska!      1965 Olds Ninety Eight
     -----------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Kevin Hoopingarner <khooping@mail.bright.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 00:45:19 -0300
Subject: Re: K- code Oldsmobile???

Mike,

You're correct.  As I stated in the last reply,  My car had the -- (non
descript) paint code.


Kevin Hoopingarner
70 Olds 442 W-30
Findlay OH.


At 10:16 AM 6/12/97 -0300, you wrote:
>david wyatt wrote:
>>
>> Something I left out in my first post.  The red car that the guy's
>> father had owned was originally Sebring Yellow.  He also mentioned how
>> it was a special order car.
>
>Dave,
>
>Just throwing this out there....as I recall (I'm sure I'll be corrected
>if I'm wrong), the paint code for Sebring Yellow on the 70 Rallye 350
>was "- -" (double dash) on the body plate, signifying special order
>paint.  If that holds true, shouldn't the paint code on this "K-car"
>also have the double-dash???  Just something to ponder.
>
>Mike Rothe
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 00:58:46 -0300
Subject: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale

                              Only Oldsmobiles

**** New stuff to list****
___________________________________________________
70-71  Glove Box Doors  $15.00 ea
70-72 RH Fender (needs patch panel)   $40.00
70 Cutlass 'S' Tail Light Lens   $10.00 ea

71-72 Sport Mirrors (excellent cond)  $100.00 pr
70-71 F-85 Horn Button (cheap style wheel, excellent)  $10.00
72 Cutlass Supreme Side Moldings (excellent)  $110.00 set
68 Cutlass/442 RH Fender (nice, small ding)  $300.00
70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switch Bezels  $5.00 ea
68 Cutlass/442 Std Horn Button (black, nice)  $7.00
68 Air Cleaner Stove Pipe (pipe only)  $10.00
70-72 455 Engine Mounts  $42.00 pr
68-72 350 Engine Mounts  $38.00 pr
68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $20.00 ea
68-72 Cowl/Windshield mouldings  $25.00ea
68-72 B-Pillar Molding Set (black, mint) $25.00 pr
70-72 Cutlass S Vinyl Top rear moldings (few pits)  $8.00 pr
71 Front Rocket Emblem (nice)  $5.00
71-72 Cutlass S/442 Hood Louvers (nice)  $35.00 pr
71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00

New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts for 1964-1972 Cutlass/442
_______________________________________________
66-67 425/400 Fuel Pump (N.O.S.)  $40.00
66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) $34.50 ea
68-75 SSII/III Center Caps (N.O.S.) $34.50 ea
69 Cutlass RH Grilles (N.O.S.) $70.00 ea
70-72 Cutlass/442 LH Fenders (N.O.S.) $450.00 ea
71-72 Turn Signal Lens (N.O.S.)  $90.00 pr
71-72 LH Sport Mirror-Remote (N.O.S.)  $125.00 ea
71-72 Stone Shields (N.O.S.) $38.00 ea
71-72 Headlight Housings (plastic) (N.O.S.) $90.00 pr
71-72 Cutlass Rear Bumpers (N.O.S.) $380.00 ea
71-75  Cutlass Fender Emblems (N.O.S.)  $19.50 ea

Used Parts
_______________________________________________
64 Cutlass/442
RH Headlight Bezel  $15.00
Front Bumper Core  $40.00
LH/RH Taillight Lens  $8.00 ea
F-85 Fender Emblem (nice)  $5.00
V-8 Emblem  $5.00

66 Cutlass/442
66-69 SSI Wheels  $40.00 ea
Headlight Bezels  $40.00 pr
Cutlass Front Grille  $40.00
LH Rear side molding  $10.00
Front Bumper Cores  $45.00 ea
Rear Bumper Cores  $45.00 ea
Rear Window Molding Set  $65.00 set
Exterior A-Pillar Chrome Moldings  $15.00 pr
F-85/Cutlass Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea

67 Cutlass/442
Cutlass Headlight Bezels  $55.00 pr
Supreme/442 Side Moldings  $15.00 ea piece
Rear Window Molding Set  $65.00 set
Front Bumper Cores  $45.00 ea
Rear Bumper Cores  $45.00 ea
A Pillar Moldings  $15.00 pr
Deluxe Full Wheel Covers  $20.00 ea

68 Cutlass/442
68 Cutlass/442 Hood Hinges  $50.00 pr
68-72 Cutlass S LH Rear Side Glass (clear)  $45.00
442 Fender Emblem (1 set)  $15.00
442 Grille Emblem  $15.00
RH Headlight Plastics  $75.00 ea
Rear Window Molding Sets  $85.00 set

69 Cutlass/442
442 Grilles (nice)  $180.00 pr
69 442 Rear Bumper (nice)  $130.00
Hood Tongue  $15.00 ea
Hood Hinges  $50.00 pr
Hood Louver Chrome  $35.00 pr
Hood Louver Moldiings  $35.00 pr
Windshield Molding Sets  $65.00 set
Rear Window Molding Sets  $85.00 set

70 Cutlass/442
70 Oldsmobile Options Folder  $5.00
69-70 Front Hood Rocket (nice)  $12.00
70 Cutlass Trunk Rocket (nice)  $10.00
SSII/III Wheels  (set of 4)  $160.00
S Hood Chrome Vents  $35.00 pr
S Hood Vent Moldings  $35.00 pr
Cutlass Supreme RH Door (rust free)  $110.00
"S" Pillared Coupe Door Panels (good cond)  $40.00 pr
Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $90.00
Black A/C and Non A/C Dash Pads  $100.00 ea
Blue Auto Shift Console  $125.00 (w/shifter)

71 Cutlass/442
Cutlass Supreme Grilles   $125.00
SSII/III Wheels  (set of 4)  $160.00

72 Cutlass/442
72 Cutlass/442 Owners Manual  $7.00
SSII/III Wheels (set of 4)  $160.00

Toronado Parts
68 Toronado Front Bumper (good cond) $50.00
68 Toronado Rear Bumper (decent cond)  $40.00
66-67 Toronado Chrome Dash Bezel (Mint)  $40.00
66-68 Toronado Pitman Arm (excellent cond) GM  $45.00
66-? Toronado Front Brake Drum  $15.00
66-69 Toronado Interior Moldings (Ivory)  $5.00 ea
66-69 Toronado LH & RH Rear Side Windows  $30.00 ea
66-68 Toronado Back Glass  $40.00
68-69 Toronado Headlight Vacuum Module  $40.00
68 Toronado Air Cleaner Pie Tin  $5.00
66-68 Toronado Trailer Hitch Assm.  $20.00

We have more parts in stock, and more coming!  The reproduction 70-72
Cutlass/442 Auto Trans Console Indicators $24.00 ea. plus $3.00 shipping.
We have also reproduced the 63 Starfire console shift lens $35.00 plus $3.00
shipping. We have recieved a 67-69 2 spd auto shift lens and will be
reproducing these for the Jetaway Trans. cars. Looking for a decent 64-66
auto trans shift lens for reference to reproduce.

Jim Chermack
'70 Cutlass SX W-32
'72 442
'86 Ninety Eight
'94 Cutlass Supreme
'96 C-1500
Virginia  Beach, VA
(757) 474-0869

------------------------------

From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 00:24:59 -0300
Subject: Re: R-12 Pressure

> Well, Spring warmth has finally found Chicago!!  Unfortunately, my A/C
> forgot how to cool over the winter.  How can I check how much of a
> charge is in the system before I take it somewhere to be shafted...I
> mean have the system pumped up...

A simple and reliable way to check the refrigerant charge of a system is
to compare the evaporator inlet and outlet temperatures.  The outlet is
usually right at the accumulator (the large vertical cannister).
With the A/C on and engine at fast idle, feel the top of the accumulator
with your fingertips; on a properly charged system, it should be roughly
the same temperature as the inlet (just ahead of the orifice tube), both
of which are normally cold.  If your system is very low on gas such that
the standing pressure is less than ~25 psi, the compressor may not even
engage, or it may cycle rapidly on and off.  Although it is possible to
successfully charge a system using the fingertip method, the best way is
to evacuate then add a measured amount of refrigerant.  If you have the
luxury of using a pressure gauge, the low side should be anywhere from
27-45 psi, depending on the ambient temperature, engine RPM, condenser
temperature, etc.  A low refrigerant charge will result in the low-side
pressure dropping rapidly followed by the compressor clutch disengaging.
A high-side pressure reading is probably more indicative of the state of
charge of a system, but since this is very temperature dependent, you'll
need to consult a chart.  For example, on a '77 Cadillac, head pressures
can vary from 120 to 270 psi, corresponding to 72F to 100F ambient
temperatures.  Bear in mind that condenser temps (and therefore pressures)
will be higher on a stationary car due to reduced air flow.

Kevin Wong

------------------------------

From: Frank <PLPAUDIO@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 00:40:46 -0300
Subject: Re: Hall's Salvage Number/Headers

Nick Gomez wrote:
>
> I tried to call Hall's Auto Salvage in Kansas to locate some disc brake

Halls salvage is no more,sorry.
Frank

------------------------------

From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 01:33:03 -0300
Subject: Re: Hall's Salvage Number/Headers

At 11:31 PM 6/12/97 -0300, you wrote:
>I tried to call Hall's Auto Salvage in Kansas to locate some disc brake
>spindles for my Olds, but the one listed on Bryce's web page seems to be
>old. Any help? I can't find any spindles around here, I can get some from a
>1970 Impala, but I'm not sure if they would fit.

You must of missed the conversation around here a couple of months ago.
Hall's closed its doors permanently on April 1, 1997.  All remaining cars
were sent to the crusher.  NOS parts were sold to another dealer.



************************************************
Dan Gulino
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/rides.html
1975 Delta 88 Convertible
************************************************

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <RBarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 02:03:23 -0300
Subject: Re: Hall's Salvage Number/Headers

At 10:31 PM 6/12/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I tried to call Hall's Auto Salvage in Kansas to locate some disc brake
>spindles for my Olds, but the one listed on Bryce's web page seems to be
>old. Any help? I can't find any spindles around here, I can get some from a
>1970 Impala, but I'm not sure if they would fit.

Hmmm, don't know about the Impala spindles; that's a big "maybe". Check a
Hollander manual.

Hall's is now an empty field. :(

>I am going to buy some headers soon, but if anyone here happens to have
>some headers for an Olds 455 engine, used or not, let me know. I went to a
>shop recently that told me they would fit them, somehow. =)

Most don't fit well at all. Hookers seem to fit best. Don't get any coated
until you've "trial-fitted" them, if you are so inclined.

>I finally wrote down some of the info from the Olds' at a salvage yard near
>my house. It does cost a $1 to get in, and I doubt they'll let me in for
                   ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Hmmm, that's novel; kind of like an amusement park? Are you then allowed to
keep whatever fits in your pockets? ;)
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <RBarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 02:25:51 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds 403 in a Trans AM

At 09:43 PM 6/12/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I'm in dire need of some serious help here.  I've been lurking for a while
>now and rarely see postings concerning the OLDS 403.   I am in process of
>building a 6.6L Olds to replace the Pontiac sloth (4.9L) in my '81.

I built one last year. Mine was for my Electra, but the motor I used as a
base came from a '79 T/A (spun a bearing).

>The 6.6L is from a '79 Tenth Anniversary TA.  What kind of starting point
>is this?  Any books or manuals I can get my hands on?

That 403 is as good as any 403; they're all the same. Some are rumored to
have solid-main webs; most have windowed-main webs (stupid weight-saving
design). Your block will last on the street just fine. The crank and rods
(best SB Olds rods made) are also fine, as long as everything is balanced.
High-compression pistons are big $$$; go with stock-style, cast or forged
(whatever you can afford). PST/Kanter seems to have the lowest prices on
rebuild kits (priced the same as their 350 kits; most others jack up the
price of their 403 kits).

As for manuals, I relied heavily on the Mondello tech guide (see his
web-page).

>What I need is suggestions (nothing radical or rare) on intake, heads and
>stock exhaust that swaps from ??? to a 403 block.  I plan on making this

Earlier ('68-'72) small-chamber 350 heads will raise your compression to a
decent level with stock-style pistons. The 1972 350 "7a" heads are best,
since they have a hardened valve seat and the larger 1.62" exhaust valve,
and can be cut to use the 2.00" intake valves from your 403 (which used the
small 1.5" exhaust valves).  Edelbrock Performer is lightweight and
emissions legal. There are headers for your car, but that depends on how
emissions-legal you want this thing. I run the stock single-exhaust, and
think this is one big restriction on my car (a clean upgrade to true duals
in the works).

>engine a work in progress, targeting next spring as the install date.
>Cleaning up the block, reworking the heads/intake/exhaust, etc. are gonna
>take time if done correctly.  What about engine internals?  Cam?  Carb?
>Ignition?

A Quadrajet will work great, as will the stock HEI. The only choice you need
to make is the cam, and that depends on your rev range, which relates to the
gears you use. I put in a Performer-grind cam (actually made by Wolverine, I
believe, but the specs are the same), and while it pulls well up top, around
town my 2.41 gears keep the car *well* below its power range.

Think of the engine as one part of the whole package. You need to match your
gears and converter to your cam. As someone else noted, you'll probably
notice a big improvement with 3.23's or 3.42's in the back.

>I want to keep the car smog legal and have all the accessories work (AC,
>cruise, in dash tach, etc.)

That's what I've done, and aside from the gears I have (soon to change as
well), I'm very happy with my rebuild.

>Are my goals too lofty?

Nope. Been there, done that, left the tire track... (oh, yeah, I need to
upgrade to a posi unit as well...)

E-mail me for specifics if you want.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 02:29:13 -0300
Subject: Olds experience

I was out running some errands this evening and while waiting at a left
turn signal in my '84 H/O, a nice '83 H/O goes whizzing past.  He
flipped a U-turn and headed back, we both waved to each other and pulled
into a parking lot to chat (the wives had a good chat too).  It occurred
to me that you'd never see something like Mustang owners doing that, of
course if they did they'd never get where they're going 'cause they'd be
stopping at every corner.

The guy works at a Buick dealer in the parts department and has been
researching parts for these cars over the past couple of years.  Some
parts are still available, like some stripes, wheels and hoods, some are
not, like the shifter bezel and airdam.  He's noticed that in recent
months somebody has been going around and buying up all of the NOS H/O
parts that are left.  So word to the wise is go and buy those spare
parts *now* unless you want to pay an arm, leg, and your first born at a
later date.  A few months ago I bought turn signals, headlight bezels,
and grills.  Maybe I'll go back and see about some taillights. . .

Tom Lentz
tlentz@ior.com

------------------------------

From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 02:31:55 -0300
Subject: Re: 1984 Olds 307 4bbl

Gil Russell wrote:
>
> Is there or is there not a way to manually adjust the Air/Fuel Mixture on
> this year carb?

At idle, cruise, or WOT?  If you want to adjust the mixture at WOT, you
can get different metering rods for the secondaries and just swap them
in.  It doesn't matter because the computer runs in open loop mode at
that point anyways.

Tom Lentz
tlentz@ior.com

------------------------------

From: Jeff Stanish <stanishj@svpal.org>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 02:57:17 -0300
Subject: Re: Mondello Olds Nats

I flew in from California one year my folks live in Warren OH.  Mondellos
meet is the best damn OLDS ONLY drag meet in the country! I think more
race olds show up then at the OLDS Performance chapter meets! But I go
there too!  As far as other things to see in OHIO?  How about the
Polka hall of fame in Cleveland?  WOWEE!!!  As I'm origianlly from there
I tend to make fun of it but boy are there a lot of corn fields!

Amish country is interesting,  RockinRoll Hall of Fame,  Jacobs Field,
get a AAA guide.  Things have got a little better back there, but
compared to the SF BAy Area or DC What can I say.



On Tue, 10 Jun 1997 tmorris@VNET.IBM.COM wrote:

> Anybody been to the Olds Nats at Norwalk?  I've never been and was thinking
> of taking my boy and making a weekend of it.  Not racing of course, just
> hanging out, watching the cars, enjoying some food, doing the road trip
> thing.  Looks like about a 6 hour drive from the Wash DC area, which is
> manageable.  Any hotel suggestions?  Any other sites to see
> around northern Ohio?
>
> Todd Morris
> 71 442
>
>

------------------------------

From: "Jon" <latvis@globalserve.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 03:04:19 -0300
Subject: Re: looking for parts

Try getting in touch with your local Oldsmobile Club (If you haven't
already done so).  I had to find a whole back end for my '85 Cutlass due =
to
the fact that I was rear ended.  I found a trunk lid, bumper and all the
lights for under $200.00 (Canadian) through the Olds Club of Canada.

To get in touch with them, do a search on "Oldsmobile Club of
America/Canada" and you should find their address.  If not, Email me your
location at latvis@globalserve.net and I'll give you the info on your loc=
al
chapter.

Good luck finding what you need.

Jon Gulbis
'85 Cutlass Supreme

- ----------
> From: Chad Michael Tearney <tearney@csd.uwm.edu>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: looking for parts
> Date: ceturtdiena, 1997. gada 12. j=FBnijs 16:29
>=20
> Hey all, hope you can help.  I'm looking for a right fender, right=20
> quarter, right door, rocker panel, quarter window, and all the trim for=
=20
> the right side of my 67' Cutlass.  I've been searching for a while and=20
> have come up empty handed.  Guess i'm just looking in the wrong places.=
 =20
> I would greatly appreciate any leads to these parts.  Thanks.
>=20
>=20
> Chad Tearney
> tearney@csd.uwm.edu
>=20
> 1967 Cutlass=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20

------------------------------

From: "Jon" <latvis@globalserve.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 03:11:05 -0300
Subject: Re: Rear bumper interchangability

My old man had a '69 F-85 and the ignition was on the column, the person
who originally posted the message must have gotten the years mixed up.

Jon Gulbis
'85 Cutlass Supreme

- ----------
> From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Rear bumper interchangability
> Date: ceturtdiena, 1997. gada 12. j=FBnijs 22:19
>=20
> David Leck wrote:
> >=20
> > >>That sounds like plenty enough work, but nothing compared to the '6=
9
I
> > >>saw a few weeks ago at a car show, that sported a '70-'72 dashboard=
!
Why
> > >>someone would go to all that trouble baffled me...
> > >
> > >Since the ignition key is on the dash in '69 and on the column in 70=
,
how
> > >did he start the car?  :-)
> >=20
> > You're thinking of a 68.  The key on a 69 is on the column.  (Either
that
> > or somebody tampered with my 69 big-time!)
> >=20
> > Dave
> >=20
> > daveleck@atlcom.net
> > www.atlcom.net/~daveleck/olds
> My 69 S conv is on the column as is my 70 Supreme conv and 72 442.=20
> Don't know about before 1969 for sure though.
>=20
> Don Sowers
> dstaxpro@lex.infi.net
>=20

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 21:54:06 -0300
Subject: Re: 70 Olds 442--info needed

If they
> claim to have original front fenders on it, check the spacing between
> the two "4's" on the "442" emblems.  The 4's should almost touch each
> other (very slight space, about 1/8") while the middle "4" and the "2"
> have a little larger space between them. I've seen a LOT of restorations
> done that equally space out the numbers on the fenders, and it really
> looks weird.

Also, if the fenders are original they will be flat on the inner edge
where the hood sits. '71-'72 fenders have bumps every several inches or
so. I had to look around for quite awhile to get the correct fenders for
my W-30 project.

Danny

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 21:42:26 -0300
Subject: Re: K- code Oldsmobile???

david wyatt wrote:
>
> Something I left out in my first post.  The red car that the guy's
> father had owned was originally Sebring Yellow.  He also mentioned how
> it was a special order car.  The special order part is what got me to
> wondering if there was anything to this.  The owner of the car I was
> looking at had somewhat of a history on the car and claimed that it was
> also a special order due to the combination of options.  As I said
> before, this all may be B.S. from both guys.  But similar stories about
> two different cars 10 years apart.  I do know that there are two
> different cars involved.  Kevin Hoopingarner, who is on this list bought
> the car I was looking at.  Kevin if you are out there, can you help?
>
> Dave Wyatt
> 70  4-4-2

I may be way out of line here but I'll put in my slant on this. Special
order colors sometimes had a " - - " on the trim plate where the paint
cose is supposed to be.

Danny

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 22:36:33 -0300
Subject: Re: B, O, or P 455? Which is better?

>
> They all had much potential but Chevy 454 wins by sheer numbers made,it
> got a lot more parts made for it hence more people used it ,this made
> parts
> cheaper so more people used it,etc,etc.

Here is something to consider:

ch*vy 454Olds 455
Comp.11.1:110.5:1
Liftersolidhyd.
H.P.450370

The ls6 in a ch*v*ll* could cover the quarter mile in the low 13s. A
similar W-30 would also run low 13s. The Olds engine is not as stressed
as the ch*vy which in the long run means more reliability.

Danny

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 22:24:50 -0300
Subject: Re: B, O, or P 455? Which is better?

Jason Labay wrote:
>
> Ok, time to start some flame wars on the list ;-) Anyway I am looking for
> some honest, unbiased opinions from the list on which manufacturer made a
> 455 with the most potential as a street/strip performer? Putting obvious
> Oldsmobile bias aside:-) The top 445 that I can think of for each
> manufacturer (I am missing some I know) are the 69 H/O 455, 70 Buick GSX
> Stage 1 455, and the 73 Pontiac Trans Am 455 SD. I was mainly looking for
> opinions from those on the list that have built, driven or raced the other's
> 455's.

In pure stock for stock the b*ick has the edge in torque. The flaw is in
the bottom end. b*icks are good low rpm torque engine with very good
breathing. Performance parts very expensive and hard to come by.

Oldsmobiles may not be the cheapest to build but you can get a lot out
without going very radical. Biggest flaw is the oiling to the top end.
Bottom end is not bullet proof but more than enough for street/strip
action.

p*nchos.....deep breath count to ten....I can't think of anything good
to say about them. Every one I've had dealings with have had rods
exiting the block. Now I will admit that the engines had been abused and
raced. I am positive that there are good ones out there, I just never
run into them. Performance parts are more readily availible and sometime
a little cheaper.

Danny

Danny

------------------------------

From: STVF11D@prodigy.com (MISS HEATHER K HUMPHRIES)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 06:35:46 -0300
Subject: Deep Direct Drum?

Hello?

         Have'nt heard any replys yet or I missed them on the deep
direct drum, is there no hope?
Ok I'll try an easy one, I hope. I know of a few places that carry
the clips for the lid
that goes over the ash tray, but not the lid. I know and as I found
out they have a
tendency to dry out and crack. Oh, and its for a 70 dash but a 71 or
72 will do and its
black. Any help would be .

And does any body know how the quality of the 69 H/O hood scoop is
that olds USA
has in ther catalog. As far as appearance and correct size.

Mark Graff
70 442 W-25
71 Cute ass
Minneapolis,MN

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 06:37:13 -0300
Subject: Back In A Week

Gang,

I'm heading out for a week in Williamsburg, Va., at a conference.
Arriving there tonight and hooking up with Jim Chermack and others on the
list who are in the area on Saturday. Jim promises a day of Olds-related
activity...

I've handed over the list to the capable hands of Mike Frederick who will
be providing admin services in my absence. Thanks Mike!!

Unsubscribing now to save my in-box, will catch up on digests when I
return. So long!

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: daveleck@atlcom.net (David Leck)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 08:11:25 -0300
Subject: Re: B, O, or P 455? Which is better?

I have been a Buick/Olds fan for some time.  I've owned both, and have many
friends with both.  While the parts are very expensive and even harder to
come by than speed parts for the Olds, it's hard to argue with a Buick 455.
Anybody who can make it, really ought to attend the GS Nationals sometime.


I've got a couple friends with really nasty Pontiacs, but both of their
motors are on the verge of coming apart.  Something is really wrong with
the oiling system in them.

I'm currently working on two Olds 455's, and I'm going to see just how
nasty they can be!

I don't have anything against Chevys (I love anything fast), but I like to
stick to BOP cars (even the occasional AMC product), just so I maintain my
individuality.  If going fast inexpensively is your goal, you can't really
beat a Chevy.

Dave

daveleck@atlcom.net
www.atlcom.net/~daveleck/olds

------------------------------

From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 07:33:21 -0300
Subject: Re: homecoming schedule

On Jun 12,  8:42pm, Mr57olds@aol.com wrote:
> Subject: homecoming schedule
> does anyone have information on times at homcoming 6-14 in lansing??
>  registration from --- to --- and swap meet times.    thanks,  mr.57olds
>    two  57's and two '64 cutlass's
>
>-- End of excerpt from Mr57olds@aol.com


Registration is from 9:00am to 12:00 noon, the auction is at 1:00 and
the swap starts at 8:00. The I-496 coming in to Lansing has some construction,
just follow the signs that says "Olds Show".

       ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
          Mark Cornea (Dr Decal) `70 W30 stick ~ Red (of course)

           (drdecal@juno.com) or (mcornea@pt8244.pto.ford.com)

            OCAª 4903
           OPCª 14
       ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

------------------------------

From: dfsval@maracaibo.dowell.slb.com (Valiant  Mud's Lab)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 07:42:40 -0300
Subject: thermostat. cooling system

hi i just read in a 73 oldsmobile bulletin that only "Dole"-type thermostat
should be used on V8s from 1968 to 1973.
Anybody knows about these thermostats? i tried to get one at my local
oldsmobile dealer, but the part number he got refers to the type the
bulletin says not to use on these engines. (!)

Thanks

alain lachatre

back from vacation

------------------------------

From: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 09:26:57 -0300
Subject: Oldsmobile Events in Maryland

Sunday July 13, 1997
Oldsmobile Centennial Club 1st Annual Show @ Ernie Swanson Oldsmobile, 410
North Crain Highway, Glen Burnie, MD.  Registration starts @ 10am, show
from 11am-3pm. All Oldsmobiles Welcome. $5 registration includes dash
plaque and goodie bag to first 50 Oldsmobiles through the gate. Please
pre-reg by July 9.  Non-judging show, but there will be special awards
given for dealer's & people's choice.  50/50 drawing and door prizes. Door
prize contributors so far include: K&N Engineering, WD-40, Auto Custom
Carpets and Apple Hydraulics.
Info: Brad Nicholson @ (410) 965-3825, e-mail: brad442@erols.com.  Web
site: www.erols.com/brad442/occhome.html (Registration form available at
the web site.  Just print it and send it in).


Saturday September 13, 1997
1st ANNUAL OLDSMOBILE CENTENNIAL CLUB CRUISE NITE. Hosted by the Oldsmobile
Centennial Club (Future OCA Chapter). At The Big M Restaurant/Drive-In
Theater, P.O. Box 111, Rt. 22, Churchville, MD (Between Bel Air & Aberdeen,
MD. 5 miles west of I-95) All years and condition Oldsmobiles welcome,
daily drivers to show trailer queens. Free goodie bag to first 50
Oldsmobile through the gate. Open to the public. Other vehicles welcome to
cruise on in. Music, fun and games, 50/50 drawing.
Info: Brad Nicholson @ (410) 256-0381, e-mail: brad442@erols.com or The Big
M @ (410) 734-4370.   Club Web Link at
http://www.erols.com/brad442/occhome.html

==========================================================================
 ---
| | | Brad Nicholson
| | | 1987 442 W-42
|/|\| 1994 Eighty Eight LSS
| | | Oldsmobile Club of America ª18984
 ---  Oldsmobile Centennial Club - Future Chapter of OCA
(W) brad.nicholson@ssa.gov     (H) brad442@erols.com
Personal Web Page - http://www.erols/com/brad442
OCA Web Page - http://www.erols/com/brad442/oca

------------------------------

From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 07:36:52 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds 307

I am surprised at how much better my 82 DRB runs since I had the exhaust
worked on.  I may have to get the tranny serviced since I don't like
the shift points/rough shifting that is going on.  The car has so much
more power that is not being reached with normal shifting mechanisms.
When I do manual shifting with the automatic, I can really get that pup
moving.  I try to keep below the maximums stated in the owner's manual
for first (45), second (70), third (none mention), and OD (none
mentioned).  I am realizing that this car is really like a 3 speed with
an extra cruising gear (for better gas mileage).  I find it better to
drive in "3" since downshifting will yield better response.  When I
downshift (which I may have to have this checked) from OD to 3, its
performance is really lackluster.

Also I tried adding some Octane booster.  The DRB seems to respond OK
to it.

Later.....

Chris Sparks
68 442 (Collecting a nice layer of dust and bird poo)
82 DRB (Trying to emulate her older sister)

------------------------------

From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 07:43:49 -0300
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Events in Maryland

Hi all,

Can someone please tell me why there are so much "Olds" related
activities occuring outside of California?  Since I live in California
and have never attended a meet or show, I would sure like to go to
one.  I keep seeing these events popping up in the east cost and mid
west, but not in the west coast.  It is not fair!  Ok I get off my
soap box :-)

Just had to vent.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

From: dedarnell@electro-matic.com
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 09:14:05 -0300
Subject: can't get valve cover off.

I've got a '71 cutlass w/455, and I can't get the driver's side valve cover
off.  It hits the Brake master cylinder.  It appears that I will have to
put a significant dent in the valve cover, or move the master cylinder, or
take the cylinder off.  Any suggestions???  Can I buy a smaller master
cylinder?  How much can I dent the valve cover before the rockers hit?

thanks,
Dave

------------------------------

From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 05:27:51 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds 403 in a Trans AM

Mitch Warren wrote:
>
> I'm in dire need of some serious help here.  I've been lurking for a while
> now and rarely see postings concerning the OLDS 403.   I am in process of
> building a 6.6L Olds to replace the Pontiac sloth (4.9L) in my '81.
>
> The 6.6L is from a '79 Tenth Anniversary TA.  What kind of starting point
> is this?  Any books or manuals I can get my hands on?
>
> What I need is suggestions (nothing radical or rare) on intake, heads and
> stock exhaust that swaps from ??? to a 403 block.  I plan on making this
> engine a work in progress, targeting next spring as the install date.
> Cleaning up the block, reworking the heads/intake/exhaust, etc. are gonna
> take time if done correctly.  What about engine internals?  Cam?  Carb?
> Ignition?
>
> I want to keep the car smog legal and have all the accessories work (AC,
> cruise, in dash tach, etc.)
>
> Are my goals too lofty?

You could always try Edelbrock's site:
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/
They have great performance packages for Olds.

- --
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoft) Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª717
********************************
