
oldsmobile-digest       Thursday, July 24 1997       Volume 01 : Number 769



RE: Size of orignal tires for 81 Cutlass Supreme
Re: 1974 442
Re: Electrical Problem
Yesterday's HEI Woes (WAS Re: Conversion Detail)
Re: When is Summer Carlisle?
Re: Electrical Problem
Re: Hallmark Hurst Olds
Re: When is Summer Carlisle?
Re: Yesterday's HEI Woes (WAS Re: Conversion Detail)
Ooops (was: Electrical Problem)
Re: Disc brakes on a Delta...  (LONG)
Re: A Sad Story
Re: Yesterday's HEI Woes (WAS Re: Conversion Detail)
Re: Electrical Problem
69 H/O for sale
Oldsmobiles For Sale
Re: Oldsmobiles in Junque Yarde
Re: Yesterday's HEI Woes (WAS Re: Conversion Detail)
Re: Yesterday's HEI Woes (WAS Re: Conversion Detail)
Re: Ooops (was: Electrical Problem)
Message-Id: <E0wrRPa-0004SS-00@enterprise>
DASH TRIM
Re: Pick-a-parts in LA
Road Blox
Re: DASH TRIM
Re: Conversion Detail
Re: Wonder Wagons
Re: Electrical Problem
Re: DASH TRIM
Chicago Area Get-together 1997
New exhaust...faster car?
Tic-toc-tac needs repair
what acually is a "SX"
stock valve covers needed for 455
Re: Disc brakes on a Delta...  (LONG)
spare tire? whats stock?
how do you touch up door panels?
Ohio Construction
Are these wheels stock?
Re: Chicago Area Get-together 1997
Please read...
Australia
TRANSMISSIONS
68-72 Cutlass and 442 Parts
rocket talk
Re: Oldsmobiles in Junque Yarde
ICQ-to bring us all together...
Malcolm Gillespie <mgillespie@sprynet.com> wishes to contact you on the ICQ Network.
Re: DASH TRIM
Re: 68-72 Cutlass and 442 Parts
Re: what acually is a "SX"

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Jul 1997 18:47:25 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <adcockjk@erols.com>
Subject: RE: Size of orignal tires for 81 Cutlass Supreme

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On mine, 205/70R14's were the stock size, but I have the F41 suspension =
package.  I believe the 195/75R14's Charlie mentioned were the size for =
cars without the upgraded suspension.  I don't know about wheels, =
though.  Are all the SSIII wheels 14x6?  My chromed superstock wheels =
are 14x6, but I think the dog dish wheels with hubcaps were 14x5.5.  =
Maybe all the cars with the 14x6's had the 205's and all the 5.5" folks =
had the 195's...

 Jason Adcock
 OCA #028044
 adcockjk@erols.com

 1984 Cutlass Calais RWD V8
 75K Miles, CC1, F41, LV2, N66
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason/cutlass.html
 Also viewable through http://www.442.com

- -----Original Message-----
From:	Charley Buehner [SMTP:buehner@lyrea.com]
Sent:	Tuesday, July 22, 1997 9:04 PM
To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:	Re: Size of orignal tires for 81 Cutlass Supreme

uknowme wrote:
>=20
> Hi all
> I was wondering if anyone could tell me the original size of tires =
that
> came on the 81 Cutlass Supreme??? I have put on 245 60 14 on it now =
and
> I am wondering how this affects my speedo accuracy, I heard the =
formula
> for calculating your speed with different tires is: original tire size
> divided by new tire size X speed =3D actuaul speed is this true? I
> wouldn't want any speeding tickets.
>  THANKS

I guess the most common ones on their was the 195-75R14 or 205-70R14.  I
~think~ that's right, that's what I'd seen the most of on em...

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Jul 1997 22:06:59 -0400
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: 1974 442

At 05:13 PM 7/23/97 -0500, you wrote:
>>>4. What you should fix first (and check first) when getting an old car 
>>>in bad shape to fix up.
>
>1) [Eric's really good advice on inspecting the brake system snipped...]

Definitely the brakes. I'd just have to add that it would be worth your
while to check the seals on the wheel-cylinders (which are likely leaking by
now) and just how free the caliper piston slides in and out (while the seals
don't leak that often, the piston will likely freeze or bind, resulting in
poor, uneven, or generally just "exciting" braking, which you don't want).

Also, adjust the parking brake.

>2) Go over the cooling system; make sure the thing won't overheat
>and blow its elderly gaskets the first time you push it hard.

Flush it out thoroughly; you'll be *shocked* at what comes out of there! And
replace the hoses (radiator and heater); they're cheap enough, and if
they've been sitting for any length of time, they may go at any instant (or
last another decade, but do you want to do the empirical investigation on
this with a car you're driving?). Also make sure that the proper pressure
cap is on there.

2a) GREASE THE SUSPENSION! (I meant to shout) All tie-rods, ball-joints,
steering linkage, etc., and while you're at it, check for missing cotter
pins, loose nuts, worn pieces, etc. After stopping, turning takes priority.

>3) This sounds picky, but make sure your headlights work well. 
>The first time you're out on a summer evening and it gets dark
>(especially with rain as well), you don't want to suddenly
>discover that you can't see where the hell you're going. Betcha
>your headlamps are currently pointing at the ground... or up in
>the trees if the rear suspension is droopy.

While you're at it, make sure that all your car's bulbs are working
properly, as well as turn signals, flashers, interior bulbs, running lights,
backup lights, the whole thing. Also make sure that all the electrical
connections are tight and clean; if a connector won't come off now, it's not
going to get better, so clean up any terminals that have corroded now, to
save yourself problems in the future. Also make sure your ground straps are
in place, and the connections are clean. Likewise, make sure the alternator
and regulator system is charging properly. (always better to test it with
instruments beforehand, than subjecting it to a trial by fire that it might
fail when you really need to get somewhere)

>4) Go over the expendables: filters, fluids, etc. Make sure it's
>all fresh and reliable. After the first oil and filter change (which
>you've already done, right? :-) give it just a few hundred miles or
>until the oil goes really black, whichever comes first, then change 
>oil and filter again. For about $7 or whatever you spend, you'll 
>achieve a good desludging of the engine that way.

Also make sure the rear axle lube is up to its proper level; you don't want
to run too low on this, and then experience the pleasure of finding and
swapping in another axle. Also re-grease the front wheel bearings, and
torque them down properly, and don't forget the cotter pin.

5) If the tires are older, you may want to replace them, even if there's
plenty of tread left on them, since they may be dry-rotted and the only way
to really find out is to drive at highway speeds and blow out a tire.

6) LUBE YOUR LOCKS! Graphite or something similar, to make sure they
continue to operate freely. They can freeze up solid without warning.

7) Replace all vacuum lines with new hoses, making sure the lines are
properly routed (I have *yet* to buy a car where they are properly routed!),
and replace the fan belts (see note about hoses above). I also would replace
the rubber fuel hoses from the hard line on the frame to the fuel pump and
to the fuel tank (having these crack is a bad thing). One trick I've
learned, while you're down there, to keep the fuel pump from
self-destructing, is to add an in-line fuel filter before the fuel pump,
preferrably with a clear housing, to keep any built-up sediment in the tank
from entering the fuel pump. Also make sure you have the proper type of gas
cap on there (vented/non-vented).

8) If you haven't already done so, give your car a basic tuneup to factory
specs.

Most of the above things (except for the tires) are cheap and very easy to
do, and will save you innumerable headaches down the line. They kind of read
like a list of things I wish *I'd* done to most of my cars, before I found
out the hard way... :(
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 07:04:45 -0500
From: katana72@juno.com (Rob T)
Subject: Re: Electrical Problem

On Wed, 23 Jul 1997 22:58:23 +0000 JR <joertexas@earthlink.net> writes:
>I have a 722 Cutlass S that I put back on the road over the winter.
>(I've written about it in some detail, so I won't bore y'all again) 
>When
>the car is idling at night, all of the lights dim, and the system
>voltage drops way down. (Only idiot lights, so no numbers available) I
>replaced the alternator during the rebuild with a type that has its 
>own
>internal voltage regulator. The connections mated, so I thought things
>were fine. What did I miss here?
>
>JR
I don't think that you missed anything. Mine does exactly the same thing.
Of course, my car does idle a little low. It could be a faulty ground,
the type of alternator, etc. I would lean towards the type of alternator.
Anybody else have any ideas?

Rob
Katana72          "It's NOT yourDaddy's Oldsmobile !!!!!    Hastings, MN

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 09:01:55 -0400
From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Subject: Yesterday's HEI Woes (WAS Re: Conversion Detail)

> Points to HEI is very simple: install the distributor and wires as you would

Speaking of Serendipity, I took yesterday (Wed.) off with the intention
of correcting a battery drainage problem, and *finally* installing HEI.

Drain Problem (which segues into the HEI problem):

I converted Big Red to an internally regulated alternator years ago, and
have been very pleased with it.  This battery problem has existed for quite
a while, but I've not had the time to properly toubleshoot it until
yesterday, when I found that:  1) The 2 year old Die Hard (effectively
only a year old as it's stored out of the car 6 mos. of the year while the
car's in storage) is fine, 2) The alternator and internal regulator & diode
bridge tests out OK (according to a local generator shop who tested it for
me for $5), and 3) There are no shorts, or low impedance drains in the entire
electrical system.  So I put better grounds on the alternator, and replaced
a tired set of battery terminals.  Everything seems to work OK now, time
will tell if the battery starts losing its charge...

With that out of the way, I decided to install the HEI distributor given
me by my bro-in-law, off of an Olds engine at work.

All in all, the installation was actually straightforward, thanks to the FAQ
info posted here on the subject last year.  Except for what I initalliy
considered a minor problem (more on that in a minute).  I dropped it in
with the rotor in the same spot as the old point dist. when I yanked it, 
new wires and plugs, turn the key, and *presto*, the car fired right up.
The timing wasn't even far off.  The motor runs very well.  A few well placed
hammer throws on the air filter, and even that fit well.

So what's the problem?

My throttle linkage rubs against the wider distributor case, just below
the cap.  Not enought to stick -- I hope!, but I can certainly feel it
stepping on the pedal.  I suppose I could tryt o bend the linkage pivot
under the hood to try to move it away from the dist., but that seems a
trifle 'mousey'.  

What's worse, the kick-down cable to the TH350 (As you all may recall,
the previous owner installed a 350/TH350 combo from a '73 Cutlass) is
also in the way, and pushing it around the dist. now causes the car to
*stay* in 1st all the time :P  Which is fine if one lives in, say,
Bermuda, where the national speed limit is 25 mph.

By the time I got to this point yesterday, it was 5PM, and I had to clean
up to pick up the kids.  I think I can arrange some time to fix this
on Saturday, doing one of two things:

1) Putting the point dist. back in the car, or

2) Sticking w/the HEI, via mods suggested by the good folks here on
   the Olds list.

Has anyone else had the throttle linkage probs using an HEI in a '67
Cutlass?  And what have others done with the kick-down cable?

Thanks in Advance,



Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 97 09:07:04 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: When is Summer Carlisle?

Anybody know when Summer Carlisle is?
     
Jeff Antonucci
     
'91 Quad 442 W-41
'70 442 Conv.
     
     This coming weekend.  Interested in tagging up?  I'll be going on 
     Saturday, leaving from Northern VA about 4:30 in the morning.  Email 
     me directly.
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 97 09:11:32 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: Electrical Problem

I have a 722 Cutlass S that I put back on the road over the winter. 
(I've written about it in some detail, so I won't bore y'all again) When 
the car is idling at night, all of the lights dim, and the system 
voltage drops way down. (Only idiot lights, so no numbers available) I 
replaced the alternator during the rebuild with a type that has its own 
internal voltage regulator. The connections mated, so I thought things 
were fine. What did I miss here?
     
JR
     
     Check the condition of the terminals at the horn relay/junction block 
     on the driver's fender.  I've found that the terminal lugs under on 
     the 12V stud can corrode, causing the symptoms you describe.  A little 
     work with sandpaper or a file fixes it right up.
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 97 09:25:56 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: Hallmark Hurst Olds

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But what irked me the most was the box, they call it a "1969 
> Hurst Oldsmobile 442".  
     
Even though the Hurst Olds carried no 4-4-2 nomenclature didn't they 
start life as a 4-4-2? At least that is what I read.
     
Danny
     
     Yes, all 69 H/O VINs start with 344...
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30



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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 09:29:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: WKBZZZZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: When is Summer Carlisle?

Yea , it's this weekend 7/25-7/26
hope you can make it!


                                                             Keith Brumbley
                                                             71 442 conv.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 97 09:38:03 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: Yesterday's HEI Woes (WAS Re: Conversion Detail)

     
Tim (Bama Bill's Buddy) Churchill asked:
     
Has anyone else had the throttle linkage probs using an HEI in a '67 
Cutlass?  And what have others done with the kick-down cable?
     
     While I've not yet gotten around to the HEI installation, it occurs to 
     me that Olds built a lot of HEI-sparked 350/TH350 combos from 1984-up. 
     Perhaps the carb bracket is different or the cable longer to route it 
     around the larger distributor.
     
     On the throttle linkage front, it sounds like the interference is not 
     real bad.  Perhaps a little shimming between the linkage and the 
     bellcrank will solve the problem.  I haven't looked at my 66 in a 
     while, so I don't recall the exact configuration of the linkage, but 
     if the factory setup doesn't allow for shimming (and here I'm talking 
     about a washer between the flange on the rod and the bellcrank), 
     perhaps you could scrounge up an aftermarket arrangement with rod ends 
     and a threaded shaft.  In that case, I would use some sort of tubular 
     spacer between the rod end and the bellcrank, with a through bolt 
     holding it all together.
     
     Hope this helps.
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30
     
     
     

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 97 09:42:16 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Ooops (was: Electrical Problem)

     
     Check the condition of the terminals at the horn relay/junction block 
     on the driver's fender.
     ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
     Proving that I should not be allowed to drive a computer until after 
     the first cup of coffee!  ;-)
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30
     

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 09:03:38 -0500
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Subject: Re: Disc brakes on a Delta...  (LONG)

>I solved that problem with a can of paint; flat black high-temp paint just
>kind of blends them in. Some people paint them yellow; to me that's the
>equivalent of drawing a circle in magic marker around a mole on your face...

Just as a data point: Back where I grew up in Lynnfield, MA, a neighbor 
had a brand new '69 442. Standard treatment for the time was to slap 
Cragar S/S mags on your car and paint whatever brake drums were visible 
in heat-resistant _red_.

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 10:10:50 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: A Sad Story

- ----------
> From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: A Sad Story
> Date: Wednesday, July 23, 1997 11:01 AM
> 
> At 10:18 AM 7/23/97 -0400, you wrote:
> >I see people restore a stock Cutlass or make a regular Cutlass into a
fake
> >442.  The problem I have is that I had a Rallye 350 for sale GM
documented
> >Solid  floors (no holes) solid trunk Ram Air hood rear spoiler sport  
> >mirrors Sport steering wheel disc brakes and only 53,000 miles It ran
like
> >new
> 
> >
> 
> Heck, my offer
> to swap even a restorable '68 Toronado with, coincidentally, 53,000 miles
on
> it, for a good-running high-compression 455 got nary a nibble. Nobody
wants
> to restore this car, 
> 
> >Robert Schinkel
> >1970 W-31
> >1970 442 Convertible
> >1970 Cutlass Convertible
> >1970 Rallye 350 (deceased)
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918


The odd thing about my story and your reply was on how I acquired the
Rallye 
I had a southern 68 Toronado for sale the Gentleman gave half value in cash
and the Rally 350 as rest of payment.  In your reply you mention a Toro and
even a 68 
 
A co-ink -a- dink who know
Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com
P.S. docbob a name given to me by my friends and you a real Doc Bob   
Hmmmmm.
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 10:12:53 -0400
From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Subject: Re: Yesterday's HEI Woes (WAS Re: Conversion Detail)

I asked:

>      
> Has anyone else had the throttle linkage probs using an HEI in a '67 
> Cutlass?  And what have others done with the kick-down cable?

Joe P. suggested:

>      
>      On the throttle linkage front, it sounds like the interference is not 
>      real bad.  Perhaps a little shimming between the linkage and the 
>      bellcrank will solve the problem.  I haven't looked at my 66 in a 
>      while, so I don't recall the exact configuration of the linkage, but 

I should have described the problem a bit more, the rubbing occurs right
near the firewall, where the throttle linkage pivots on the bracket.  The
otherside of this linkage is some sort of switch or sender, with three
terminals on the driver's side.  Unused, of course, methinks this must've
been used with the 2 speed tranny originally in the car, but that's just
conjecture on my part -- someone here knows for sure, I'll wager.

Anyways, shimming the linkage wouldn't be the answer, as I'd be shimming
toward the distributor, not away.  It seems that to use the current pivot,
I'd have to bend the bracket a bit toward the driver's side, and I'm trying
to be, err, cautious about doing things like that until I hear what others
have done.

In all likelihood Joe, your '66 will be layed out the same way under the hood.

I'll look into getting a longer kickdown cable, I was hoping find a way to
use the existing one; laziness on my part, I guess.  Thanks for the tips, Joe!




Tim (If I'm "Bama Bill's Buddy", I Feel Sorry For His Enemies) hurchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'
 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 09:23:43 -0500
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Subject: Re: Electrical Problem

>>I replaced the alternator during the rebuild with a type that
>>has its own internal voltage regulator. The connections mated,
>>so I thought things were fine. What did I miss here?
>
>I don't think that you missed anything. Mine does exactly the 
>same thing. Of course, my car does idle a little low. It could
>be a faulty ground, the type of alternator, etc. I would lean 
>towards the type of alternator. Anybody else have any ideas?

Yes. I diagnosed a Chevyvan (!) with the same problem; they'd been
fiddling with and replacing alternators with no success. Turned out
they'd done so _much_ fiddling that the side connector with the
small dark wire and the fat 10-gauge red wire (looks like this:
[ ][ ] in the form of a white plastic or nylon plug; plugs into
the side of the alternator housing) was loose. I forget the whole 
circuit layout but basically the fat red wire fed power to the rest 
of the vehicle. I popped the red wire's female spade lug connector 
out of the white plastic housing, cleaned it up and reshaped its 
sides for a better grip. Plugged it all back together and full power 
was restored.

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 10:31:27 -0400
From: mike.blankenship@medaphis.com
Subject: 69 H/O for sale

For Sale: 1969 Hurst/Olds, all original, 68,000 original miles, 455, t400, 390
posi, no a/c, original paint and interior, all paperwork, picture of car at
dealership with original owner. I am 2nd owner, $14,000 firm, would consider    any 69-70 Ram air IV GTO or Judge trades. Thanks!

Please respond to Mike.Blankenship@medaphis.com

Mike 
66 442
69 H/O
70 W30
71 442 convt
71 Cutlass S

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 11:10:46 -0400
From: tgstoner@umich.edu
Subject: Oldsmobiles For Sale

Ad from the "Antique and Classic Vehicles" section of the classified ads in
last night's Ann Arbor News:

1972 Olds Cutlass Convertible - 350, automatic, air, good shape!  $3,500
313-761-1499

1970 Olds Cutlass W-31 - V8, 325hp, W-31 intake, 4 speed, posi, ram air
hood and setup, tick-tach gauge, Super Stock II wheels.  Needs paint.
$3,100.  313-663-4362

I'm not familar with either of these two cars, nor do I believe that I know
their present owners, but I would be quite willing to contact them and
perform an initial inspection for any list member who might be interested.
Both telephone numbers are for here in or around Ann Arbor.  Contact me
directly, if you'd like for me to investigate.

Tom Stoner
Ann Arbor, MI
1979 Hurst/Olds (under 36,000 miles and to be advertised at $7,500 in the
Friday Ann Arbor News!)
tgstoner@umich.edu
313-663-3233

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 09:35:59 +0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobiles in Junque Yarde

DAVID BETZ wrote:
> 
> Bill,
> 
> Could you please tell me the condition of the SSIV polycast wheel you
> mentioned below as the 15" vinyl wheel?  I would be interested if the
> polycast does not have any chunks taken out of it.  Also, how much for the
> one wheel?  BTW, this wheel was used on the 1971 & 1972 Delta 88 only.
> 
> Dave Betz
> 


The wheel was in good shape except for a split in one fin about a 1/4"
long.  The coloring was nice (no sun deterioration).  The owner priced
the SSII wheels w/all trim at $60/set.  I would expect about $10 or so
for it.  I didn't get to check the straightness of it.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 10:03:45 +0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: Yesterday's HEI Woes (WAS Re: Conversion Detail)

Timothy A. Churchill wrote:

> 
> Tim (If I'm "Bama Bill's Buddy", I Feel Sorry For His Enemies) hurchill
> -------------
> '67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
> '89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
> '91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'
> 

Tim,

Did you slip that little comment in to discourage me from invading
Boston this fall?  Well, I'm going to try to get there anyway.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

P.S.  I'm not commenting on the linkage because I don't know much about
it.  We use reins & stirrups here; which get tangled also.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 12:53:31 -0400
From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Subject: Re: Yesterday's HEI Woes (WAS Re: Conversion Detail)

> > Tim (If I'm "Bama Bill's Buddy", I Feel Sorry For His Enemies) hurchill

> Tim,
> 
> Did you slip that little comment in to discourage me from invading
> Boston this fall?  Well, I'm going to try to get there anyway.
> 
> Bill Culp

No problem, Bill.  Just remember what happened when the British tried
to invade Boston :) :) :)


"One if by Land, Two if By Sea, Three if by Oldsmobile"


Seriously, give me a call when you visit Our Fair City.  Are you staying
in town, or in one of the outlying areas?

With any luck, by the time you get here I'll have this li'l linkage problem
fixed in Big Red; although at the rate I'm proceeding, it might be
a close thing :P




Tim (From The Place Where Sam Adams Isn't Just a Brand o' Beer) Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 12:01:06 +0000
From: JR <joertexas@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Ooops (was: Electrical Problem)

Padavano.Joe wrote:
> 
> 
>      Check the condition of the terminals at the horn relay/junction block
>      on the driver's fender.
>      ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>      Proving that I should not be allowed to drive a computer until after
>      the first cup of coffee!  ;-)

I looked and looked on my fender.. couldn't find a thing..... :-)

JR 

P.S. Thanx for the advice

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 10:10:46 -0700
From: Dawne Lowery <comptec@ccnet.com>
Subject: Message-Id: <E0wrRPa-0004SS-00@enterprise>

Please unsubscribe me from the mail list.  Thank you.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 13:58:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: WKBZZZZ@aol.com
Subject: DASH TRIM

Well this my first post to the list, I hope it goes through

I am trying to find the wood grain dash trim for a 71 442 convt. with air, no
cruse control. Someone installed a after market radio and cut mine. Any help
would be great.  



                                                                Keith
Brumbley
                                                                71 442
convertable


                                                              WKBZZZZ@AOL.COM
                                                                

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 15:40:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: W304421970@aol.com
Subject: Re: Pick-a-parts in LA

I'm interested in the radio for the 70 olds

30 bucks sounds good to megive me a email or page me at 313-201-8112

thanks john

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 16:14:29 -0400
From: dk0009@epfl2.epflbalto.org (Douglas Kitchener)
Subject: Road Blox

All-

Just got back from the AAA, planning my route from DC --> Lansing... what's to 
plan, really, PA Turnpike -->  oHIo Turnpike --> Toledo and turn right!

Anyway, am informed that there is mucho construction in oHIo, allaway between 
Cleveland and Toledo!  Holy Toledo!  Alternate route is either I-70, or they'r 
also directing people across US 224.  AAA was unable to tell me whether 
construction was being done during the week, or on weekends... have an oHIo 
number to call, but not handy, will post later.  Also meant to see if I could 
find anything on the internet about it, but forgot to do so before starting 
this.

Also, from the Toronado Email list, Rob Olsson sez the Michigan roads are lousy.  
Will forward his post to the Olds list, anybody else that wants a copy, holler 
at me privately.  (BTW, this was echoed by Don Ross).

Finally, if I remember correctly, AAA also mentioned lotsa construction on 
I-77... she said allaway to Florida, but I see on the map that goes to 
Charleston SC.

Bleah!

Happy Motoring-

Doug
dk0009@mail.pratt.lib.md.us

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 16:27:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Douglas J Harkema" <harkema2@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Re: DASH TRIM

Call Brothers
They carry all the aftermarket wood trim

>
> Well this my first post to the list, I hope it goes through
>
> I am trying to find the wood grain dash trim for a 71 442 convt. with air, no
> cruse control. Someone installed a after market radio and cut mine. Any help
> would be great.
>
>
>
>                                                                 Keith
> Brumbley
>                                                                 71 442
> convertable
>
>
>                                                               WKBZZZZ@AOL.COM
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 13:45:00 -0700
From: Erik Nowacki <enowacki@titan.com>
Subject: Re: Conversion Detail

>Points to HEI is very simple: install the distributor and wires as you would
>a normal distributor (same firing order, of course, though the standard for
>HEI's is to begin with the #1 terminal pointing at the driver, although in
>practice it makes no difference, just as long as the order is right and the
>rotor is at #1 when it's near TDC on its compression stroke), just replace
>the ignition-switched "+" lead to the coil (which is a resistor wire; either
>remove it entirely or tape it off well) with an ignition-switched 12 volt
>lead running to the HEI housing itself (you can pirate the connector for
>this from the same place you got the distributor, or Year One and many other
>places sell this connector alone). You can also delete the 12-volt wire
>running from the "R" terminal on the starter to the "+" terminal on the coil
>(should be a yellow wire, though it's probably dirty); it's no longer
>necessary (if you don't want to fish that out of the loom, you can just
>disconnect it from the starter, and tape it up; the other end near the coil
>will then be dead).
>
I agree with the following, but would like to add that HEI uses different
sparkplugs with a much bigger gap.  So to complete the conversion get some
HEI wires and plugs.  

Erik Nowacki
72 Vista Cruiser

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 13:51:55 -0700
From: Erik Nowacki <enowacki@titan.com>
Subject: Re: Wonder Wagons

At 08:30 PM 7/23/97 -0700, you wrote:
>One of the three Vista Cruisers with the 442 package is in our So Cal Olds
>Chapter.  Very very nice.  The guy in our club claims to know where one of
>the other two is today.
>
>
>Lisa Madsen
>
Lisa,

	Will this gentleman attend the September meeting in Julian? If so, I must
see this car.

Erik Nowacki
72 Vista Cruiser

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 15:46:00 -0500
From: katana72@juno.com (Rob T)
Subject: Re: Electrical Problem

On my 72, it's located on the firewall. Thanks for the tip, though
On Thu, 24 Jul 97 09:11:32 -0500 "Padavano.Joe"
<padavano.joe@Orbital.COM> writes:
>
>I have a 722 Cutlass S that I put back on the road over the winter. 
>(I've written about it in some detail, so I won't bore y'all again) 
>When 
>the car is idling at night, all of the lights dim, and the system 
>voltage drops way down. (Only idiot lights, so no numbers available) I 
>
>replaced the alternator during the rebuild with a type that has its 
>own 
>internal voltage regulator. The connections mated, so I thought things 
>
>were fine. What did I miss here?
>     
>JR
>     
>     Check the condition of the terminals at the horn relay/junction 
>block 
>     on the driver's fender.  I've found that the terminal lugs under 
>on 
>     the 12V stud can corrode, causing the symptoms you describe.  A 
>little 
>     work with sandpaper or a file fixes it right up.
>     
>     Joe Padavano
>     padavano.joe@orbital.com
>     
>     66 442
>     68 W-30
>     69 H/O
>     70 W-30
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 17:44:50 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: DASH TRIM

On Thu, 24 Jul 1997, WKBZZZZ@aol.com wrote:
>Well this my first post to the list, I hope it goes through
>
>I am trying to find the wood grain dash trim for a 71 442 convt. with air, no
>cruse control. Someone installed a after market radio and cut mine. Any help
>would be great.  
>
>
>
>                                                                Keith
>Brumbley
>                                                                71 442
>convertable
>
>
>                                                              WKBZZZZ@AOL.COM
                                                          
Year one @ 1-800-932-7663

Brothers @ 1-816-662-2060

Supercars Unlimited @ 1-503-244-8249

Fusick Auto @ 1-203-623-1589

Hope this helps!

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 16:22:33 -0500
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Subject: Chicago Area Get-together 1997

I've got a proposal for a get-together this year; the only 
problem is that it's rather short notice. My fault: I thought
it was going to be Labor Day weekend, but the schedule just 
arrived in the mail and it'll be sooner than that: Sunday, 
August 3rd. On the plus side, we'll get to see a lot more
antique Oldsmobiles than just what we ourselves bring.

What am I talking about? The 7th annual Vintage Transport 
Extravaganza at the Illinois Railway Museum in Union, IL. 
The museum is a big, sprawling place in the countryside, 
with dozens of antique steam and Diesel locomotives, 
passenger cars, trolleys and other transportation gadgetry,
much of it operating for free rides (once you pay your 
admission, everything you ride is free with no additional
fares), especially on weekends. Your kids will overload on
Cool Stuff here. They have several miles of track running 
through the countryside on which you can ride in a variety
of rolling stock, and lots of buildings holding some really
remarkable old trains. You can find out more about 
it at http://www.irm.org/

So anyway, on Sunday, August 3rd they're having the 7th Annual
Transport Extravaganza, at which they invite collectors of all
sorts of transportation, especially cars, to bring their stuff
and display it there. Since Union, Illinois is rural, there's
plenty of grassy areas around the museum buildings which during
the Extravaganza (jeez, it's a pain to keep typing that word 
for some reason :-) is filled with all brands of antique 
transportation.

Best of all, if you bring a car to display, you get in free.

So what I propose is that we meet there. We not only get to meet
each other, but also see a lot of _other_ antique Oldsmobiles, 
perhaps sign up a few more Olds fans for the mailing list, and 
generally have a blast looking at cars, trains and whatever else
shows up. If you have any interest in this topic, you do _not_ 
want to miss this day.

Basic info on the Extravaganza event can be found at

http://www.irm.org/events/vintage.html

You can also get further info on the event at (630) 834-6133, but
be forewarned that it's a very full answering machine so you have
to wait an eternity to get past the beep and leave a message. I'm 
waiting for a callback to see if there's anything else that 
exhibitors from our group might need to know.

I'm going (I'm Olds-challenged at the moment, but am also a member
of the museum). If anyone else is interested, contact me and/or 
reply to the list and somehow we'll get ourselves organized. I can
also confidently say that even if you have to travel a long way
and find a hotel somewhere, it's worth the trip. Hope to see you!

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 17:27:53 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: New exhaust...faster car?

Hey guys (and gals),

	Well, my pappy went and picked up my Heddman Hedders today while I was
at one of my two jobs. I got a pair of Flowmasters in my garage. They
will all come togethor (hopefully Saturday) on 2 1/2" stainless pipes.
(woo-hoo!) I hope this system will be worth it, for all the money I'm
spending! Will these make my car faster? Even just a little? It has
stock 2" pipies, manifolds and resonators (i think?). I should get a
good power boost right?
- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 17:58:43 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Tic-toc-tac needs repair

Can anyone tell me where would be a good place to fix my Tic-Toc-Tac?

I want the clock to be switched to quartz, (right now it runs fast) and 
the tach adjustment screw seems to be stripped, (it reads about 1600 - 
2000 higher than it should be).

A place in southeast Michigan would be preferred, but not necessary.

Thanks!

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 18:02:09 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: what acually is a "SX"

I was wondering what is different about the "SX" package? What did it 
really add besides the HD rear end? (referring to the 1970 through 1972 
vintage)

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 18:10:38 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: stock valve covers needed for 455

I'm looking for and original set of stock valve covers for a 1971 455 
w/air.  (The ones with the notch for the brake booster)

I have a set of Chrome valve covers that fit the same, and are in EC.  
(The tops are flat and do NOT have "Oldsmobile stamped in them)

If anyone is interested, make me an offer.

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 14:45:29 -0700
From: Erik Nowacki <enowacki@titan.com>
Subject: Re: Disc brakes on a Delta...  (LONG)

At 09:44 PM 7/23/97 -0400, you wrote:
>At 02:16 PM 7/23/97 -0700, you wrote:
>>Don't forget that discs look much better through a set of wheels.  I have
>>considered switching to rear discs just because I am tired of seeing my
>>rusty old drums through my B*ick 5 spoke wheels.
>
>I solved that problem with a can of paint; flat black high-temp paint just
>kind of blends them in. Some people paint them yellow; to me that's the
>equivalent of drawing a circle in magic marker around a mole on your face...
>_______________________________________________________
I just ordered some rust neutralizer and black high-temp paint for my drums
from Eastwood.  It's a lot cheaper than the disc brake conversion, but it
won't look as good as shiny discs.

BTW, I tried to order some Olds blue paint for the 455 I am rebuilding for
my VC, but Eastwood told me they no longer carry it.  Someone mentioned
that NAPA has it, can someone please post the NAPA part # for the correct
blue color.

TIA

Erik Nowacki
72 Vista Cruiser

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 18:16:07 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: spare tire? whats stock?

My 71 4-4-2 originally had SS-I wheels on it, however the spare is a 
SS-II wheel.  

To make the car authentic, shouldn't the spare match the wheels that's 
on it?  Or in other words, if I ordered a Cutlass back in 1971 with 
SS-I wheels would the spare match?

Thanks in advance!

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt. 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 18:21:48 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: how do you touch up door panels?

The chrome trim, (around the woodgrain), on my door panels look peeled. 
What's the best and nicest looking way to re-do this chrome colored 
trim?

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 17:49:39 -0400
From: dk0009@epfl2.epflbalto.org (Douglas Kitchener)
Subject: Ohio Construction

All-

More on the Ohio road destruction-

Found a toll-free number, 1/88-TURNPIKE (1-888/876-7453) for the Ohio Turnpike, 
and a website at www.ohioturnike.org

Here's another number I copied down, for info on construction on I-75 in Ohio, 
800/783-7099.

I got to the State of Ohio's web site by going to www.ohio.org, if I remember 
correctly (ohio.com is an internet service provider), and from thence into the 
Department of Transportation (also saw a heading for Highway Patrol, but didn't 
look at it yet).

My web browser is text-only, so most of yous will get a lot more benefit out of 
this than I did... gee, the Internut is neat!

I think it would behoover alluvus whom are travelling to Lansing, to check out 
web sites of all states we plan to travel thru, for information on road 
conditions!

Happy Motoring!

Doug
dk0009@mail.pratt.lib.md.us

Olds list members, please email me privately with any comments-

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 18:28:41 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Are these wheels stock?

Coker Tire sells Oldsmobile SS-I wheels that have a chrome rim instead 
of the trim ring.  Was this an option back in 1971?

If so, what size should I buy to keep my car original?

Coker offers:

14 x 6
14 x 7
15 x 6
15 x 7

Thanks for the help!

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 17:06:58 -0500
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Subject: Re: Chicago Area Get-together 1997

Previously I wrote:
>You can also get further info on the event at (630) 834-6133, but
>be forewarned that it's a very full answering machine so you have
>to wait an eternity to get past the beep and leave a message. I'm 
>waiting for a callback to see if there's anything else that 
>exhibitors from our group might need to know.

Okay, I got the callback. The normal cutoff for exhibitor signups
was to be this Saturday, but I have obtained a waiver for us on
the Olds Owners' Email List to get our exhibitor signups sent in
as soon as possible, even though they'll miss the official cutoff,
but you will need to contact me about this. Read on.

Pete Charnon of the museum is mailing me an information packet.
It will have a Club Number on it which will identify us as members
of the Email List, and the form you'll need to send in should have
that number on it. When I get it, presumably on Saturday, I'll be
able to forward it to you -- fax, emailed text, something like that.
You then mail it in. One way or another I'm sure we can figure it
out. Anyway, if you have a car to exhibit, make sure I know about
it ASAP (email is fine) to ensure that you're included.

(Oh, and we're not talking concours quality at all. If you're
proud of it, bring it in. :-)

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 17:05:43 -0500
From: kovalj@dave-world.net (Justin Koval)
Subject: Please read...

AS I have said, I bought two stock cars..one is a 1984 cutlass that needs
motor...anyways..
looking for someone in Illinoiks area that would like to (this part is
funny..) DONATE some parts..(ha ha..yeah right!) anyways..I'll be the only
Cutlass out there, and unless get an engiine and some parts, getting scrapped!

Justin

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 02:20:31 +0000
From: "LCPL JACKS AIMD/IMO3  X7402" <j3910@boxer.navy.mil>
Subject: Australia

Is there anybody out there in Oldmobile-land that is from Australia. 
I will be in Darwin in about a month and would like to "hook-up" with 
some fellow car enthusiastis while I'm there. E-mail me directly... 

Ben
'62 Olds F-85
'68 Olds 442
(Persian Gulf)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 02:23:43 +0000
From: "LCPL JACKS AIMD/IMO3  X7402" <j3910@boxer.navy.mil>
Subject: TRANSMISSIONS

I am curious and would like to know where to get a 4L80E. I realize 
it is primarily TH-400 with an overdrive. I greatly desire more info 
and to know if it would bolt up to a '68 w/ a 400. I am running a 
3.08 rearend and this will give me more options for race and for long 
driving (which I do much of.) thanx.

Ben
'62 Olds F-85
'68 Olds 442
(Persian Gulf)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 18:57:56 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: 68-72 Cutlass and 442 Parts

Before I post my good parts on the list 
I would like to ask permission
Is this frowned upon or is this OK
Not lots of parts just about 10 - 20 parts


Robert Schinkel

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 18:10:26 +0000
From: TERRANCE ROHNER <tthiel@lyrea.com>
Subject: rocket talk

when is rocket talk?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 19:10:31 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobiles in Junque Yarde

 Thanks Lloyd,
I just ordered a mast replacement from Year One just to get a workable
antenna that doesn't look kludged (as it does now). The replacement isn't
original appearance though, so would still like to find the plastic retainer
nut.

Mick Gillespie, Columbus, Indiana
69 Cutlass S convertible
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/newcomer.htm

- -----Original Message-----
From: Lloyd W. Culp <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, July 23, 1997 11:34 PM
Subject: Re: Oldsmobiles in Junque Yarde



M&D Gillespie wrote:
> >
> >I'm looking for one of those black "tear drop thingys" too. Mine is
> stripped on the bottom threads. It's from a 69 though. I spent three hours
> in a junk yard on Monday in 95 degrees looking for parts. I didn't find
> anything I could use and the Olds' were scarce.
>
> Mick Gillespie
> Columbus, IN
> 69 Cutlass S convertible
> >

Mick,

I'll be calling back there tomorrow or Friday.  I can find out.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 17:23:42 -0700
From: Brad Bowles <wolds@napanet.net>
Subject: ICQ-to bring us all together...

There is a FREE program avalable known as ICQ.  It allows us to send
short messages, files, programs, and other stuff to each other.  But
greatest of all, it allows us to chat!  The program notifies you who
else is on line that you know!  I have this and it works great!
I think that this kind of program would be useful to those of us on the
Olds list.  If you are interested in this FREE program please go to 
http://www.mirabilis.com
Anyone who needs help with the program, please e-mail me privately
bodog@napanet.net
thanks
Brad
70 442

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 21:14:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: ICQ Account <icq@icq.com>
Subject: Malcolm Gillespie <mgillespie@sprynet.com> wishes to contact you on the ICQ Network.

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN">

<HTML>

<BODY>

Malcolm Gillespie has tried to contact you on the ICQ network but was unable to do so.<br>

Therefore s/he requested to present you, on his/her behalf, with this E-mailed copy of<br>

the ICQ program, in order to enable you to communicate with him/her.<br><br>



Malcolm Gillespie asked to forward to you the following:<br> "This program was recommended to the Olds List to allow us to chat or send files back and forth. I just downloaded it so can't comment yet.<br>Mick Gillespie"<br><br>



If you have Windows 95, Windows NT 4 or Windows 3.x:<BR><BR>

<A HREF="http://www.mirabilis.com/download.html">
Click here to download ICQ<BR>

http://www.mirabilis.com/download.html<br></A>

</A><BR>



Once it is installed you will be able to dial her/him easily and communicate with him/her. <br>

Please note: his Universal Internet Number (UIN) is 2320621. <br><br>



His/her Personal ICQ World Wider Pager address is:<br>



<A HREF="http://wwp.mirabilis.com/2320621">



http://wwp.mirabilis.com/2320621



</A><br><br><br>



<B>WHAT IS ICQ (I SEEK YOU)? </B><br><br>

The ICQ program overcame the main obstacle that prohibited the Internet from becoming<br>

a truly real-time, two way, interactive, person-to-person global communication system.<br><br>



The ICQ program enables you to "dial" anyone on the Net at your discretion, without<br>

having to make any prior arrangements with him or her. In fact, the recipient of the call<br>

needs only to install this program. There after,  He or she will always, when on the Internet, <br>

be alerted when you are contacting him/her. The program will indicate to you, who of <br>

your list of designated frequent contacts, is logged-in at any given point in time, ready to<br>

receive Internet communications.<br><br>



With ICQ you can initiate communication with anyone on the Internet at anytime, be<br>

it by text, voice, graphics, video or games. You can even send entire URLs. Messages<br>

are delivered directly to the recipient's computer, without the need for downloading. <br>

If the recipient is "logged in", he or she can respond immediately and open a direct<br>

line of communication with you. If not, your message will be saved and be made<br>

available to the recipient as soon as he or she comes on line.<br><br>



No longer will you search in vain for friends or associates on the net. ICQ does the<br>

searching for you, alerting you in real time when they sign on,  thus eliminating the<br>

need to conduct a directory search each time you want to communicate with a<br>

specific person.<br><br>



ICQ runs in the background and allows you to work and play on other applications<br>

while keeping track of  incoming messages as well as the log-in status of your<br>

Internet associates.<br><br>



<B>PAGING WORLD WIDE: </B>Until you install the ICQ program you can still page<br>

Malcolm Gillespie through the WWW by the ICQ World Wide Pager, using the following link:<br><br>



<A HREF="http://wwp.mirabilis.com/2320621">



http://wwp.mirabilis.com/2320621



</A><br><br>



This message will reach the person, and pop up on his/her screen, if s/he is online - immediately;<br>

if s/he is offline -  as soon as he/she logs on to the Internet, wherever he/she may be.<br><br>



<B>DOWNLOADING:</B> If you wish to download our Windows 95, Winndows NT or Windows 3.x versions you can download a copy of the program or for more<br>

information regarding ICQ, see our homepage at <A HREF="http://www.mirabilis.com">

http://www.mirabilis.com</A><BR><BR>

<B>MAC, JAVA:</B> If you wish to be informed in the future at the release of our <A HREF="http://www.mirabilis.com/downloadmac.html">Macintosh</A> or <A HREF="http://www.mirabilis.com/downloadjava.html">Java</A>, 

please click on the appropriate version.<BR>

</A><br><br>



ICQ Network Administrator<br>

<A HREF="MAILTO:admin@mirabilis.com">

icq_admin@mirabilis.com

</A>

</BODY>

</HTML>

<!--2320621-->

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 21:29:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: DEOVIVERE@aol.com
Subject: Re: DASH TRIM

You wrote:

I am trying to find the wood grain dash trim for a 71 442 convt. with air, no
cruse control. Someone installed a after market radio and cut mine. Any help
would be great.  

The walnut pattern wood grain overlay decals can be order for about $25 from
 most catalogues that sell restoration products like Fusic (860-623-1583),
Year One (1-800-932-7663), etc.  If you need the glove box overlay, that'll
cost an extra $15-20.

Tom Simmons
71 Supreme SX

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 22:11:27 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: 68-72 Cutlass and 442 Parts

On Thu, 24 Jul 1997, "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com> wrote:
>Before I post my good parts on the list 
>I would like to ask permission
>Is this frowned upon or is this OK
>Not lots of parts just about 10 - 20 parts
>
>
>Robert Schinkel


Hey Rob,

Do you happen to have a cruise control servo, mounting bracket, and 
carb linkage for a 1971 4-4-2?

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 21:47:09 -0400 (EDT)
From: DEOVIVERE@aol.com
Subject: Re: what acually is a "SX"

You wrote:

I was wondering what is different about the "SX" package? What did it 
really add besides the HD rear end? (referring to the 1970 through 1972 
vintage)

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.


I have a 71 SX and it is basically the Cutlass Supreme with the guts of a
442.   To they eye it presents the classy Series 57 Holiday Coupe body (or 67
convertible), which features more sophisticated lines from roof to trunk in
lieu of the typically more agressive "fast back-ish" slope from top to trunk
on the "S" and 442 models (Series 77 and 87), a vinyl top with extra chrome
trim and a chrome molding running the length of the car.  On the interior, it
offers deep grain vinyl seats, and other interior amenites that one expects
from the Supreme.  

But don't be fooled by the upscale appearance.  For the "SX" badge indicates
a series of performance options that make this car potentially a 442 in all
the ways that count.  It features the same 455 4bbl engine, dual exhaust
(with cut out bumper), TH400 trans, 12 bolt posi with same rear gearing
options, as well as the same sport suspension (FE-2).  You'll find many SXs
with the W-25 OAI hood and aircleaner set up.  The only thing missing is the
option of a 4-speed (which is my great regret with this muscle mutation).  

You can see that this car is a real sleeper.  I like to think of it as a
gentleman's 442, combining the executive class and elegance of the Supreme
with the balls of a 442.  

Tom Simmons
(need I say?) 71 SX
deovivere@aol.com

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #769
********************************

