
oldsmobile-digest        Friday, July 11 1997        Volume 01 : Number 745



Re: Valvetrain probs
Re: The Wife
Re: Valvetrain probs
Re: Small Block Exhuast Manifolds?
Re: The Wife
Re: need parts
Re: spring for olds hood emblem...
spacer for door striker bolt
Greg, Help!!
RE: Overheating on 70 Cutlass
72 sport wheel Button
Re: How to blow a head gasket (and one way to avoid it?)
Re: CHROMEWORK...............
Re: CHROMEWORK...............
Re: CHROMEWORK...............
RE: How to blow a head gasket (and one way to avoid it?)
Re: How to blow a head gasket (and one way to avoid it?)
Re: Worcester Car Show
Re: Lightening Rods
RE: How to blow a head gasket (and one way to avoid it?)
Re: CHROMEWORK...............
Re: CHROMEWORK...............
Re: Chrome tips
Rocket Talk
Re: CHROMEWORK...............
Re: Overheating on 70 Cutlass
Valve  roller rockers
Re: spring for olds hood emblem...
Re: Overheating on 70 Cutlass
Sorry About the Joke
Re: Rocket Talk
Re: Headers
Re: Overheating on 70 Cutlass
Re: Chrome tips
Re: Sorry About the Joke
Re: Gas war
Re: Old Tools/Muscle Car Review
Re: Headers
Re: Headers
Re: Gas war
Re: Wanted W 30 Aluminum intake
Re: Sorry About the Joke
SPAM - It's not just for mail list anymore!
Re: Gas war
Re: Sorry About the Joke
Re: Sorry About the Joke
Re: Headers- notes and tips on installing
Re: Old Tools/Muscle Car Review
water pump stud bolts
442/Cutlass Parts For Sale 
Re: Valve  roller rockers

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 01:11:57 -0400
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Valvetrain probs

At 09:00 PM 7/10/97 PST, you wrote:
>Hello, my 350 in my '78 delta 88 has been having some valvetrain
>problems lately, the intake valve on #6 cylinder is not sealing
>correctly, therefore causing a soot/carbon buildup inside the intake

How have you determined this? Have you actually had the intake off lately? I
ask, because soot can also be coming from the EGR ports.

>runner.  I'm going to take the valve cover off on Saturday to see what
>kind of parts I need, but I have heard a lot about how 350's have
>valvetrain noise/rocker pedestala wear down fast, etc and I was

If the valvetrain was worn ecessively, you'd hear tapping/clattering noises,
and the valve would not open *enough*, rather than opening too much and
allowing combustion gasses back into the intake port.

>wondering what kind of damage do you think is happening?  I know this
>could be caused by a stuck lifter, a burned valve (let's hope not), and
>worn pedestals/rockers, bent pushrods, etc.  I was wondering what was
>the most common part to replace in the valvetrain..  Engine has 81k on
>it, burns a quart of oil every 3000 miles, has an edelbrock performer
>manifold/stock Q-jet, and the bottom end has bever been apart.

First, before you open it up, do a compression test; no sense replacing
things that aren't bad. A while back (pre-rebuild, at about 175,000 miles),
my 403 started missing, running on 7 cylinders, smoking, and I was *certain*
that the problem was a broken rocker arm, since a friend's Olds 350 had the
*exact* same symptons from that problem. So, I order the rocker/pedestal
set, block out a morning to do the work, pull her all apart to replace the
rocker, and (of course, you guessed it) the rocker was in perfect shape.
Then I pulled the spark plug, and discovered that the plug was fouled from
poor oil control in that cylinder (bad rings). Had I bothered to check the
plug, and do further diagnostics, I could have saved a bit of time and money.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 01:15:18 -0400
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: The Wife

At 10:16 PM 7/10/97 +0000, you wrote:
>Please disregard the message about the air conditioner in my car.  If my
>husband can't take time out of his busy scheduel to do something nice
>for me then I will just have to get it done myself!!!  I'd rather pay
>whatever the cost is to get it fixed than listen to him bitch at me
>'cause he had to actually think about me for a change!

heh... of course, the moral of the story is that old VAX reminder...

Keep your password a secret, and change it often!

Bob (who's glad his wife is not very computer-literate) Barry
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 01:20:47 -0400
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Valvetrain probs

At 01:11 AM 7/11/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>wondering what kind of damage do you think is happening?  I know this
>>could be caused by a stuck lifter, a burned valve (let's hope not), and

Ooops, I forgot to add: 

Unfortunately, it looks like you've got a burnt valve; nothing a simple
valvejob wouldnt' fix.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 01:20:50 -0400
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Small Block Exhuast Manifolds?

At 08:12 PM 7/10/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Thomas, I thought the 307's and the 350's manifolds were both "logs". 
>Maybe the original owner installed headers or a modified manifold.

Didn't the later 307's (with the 7A heads) have welded tubular exhaust
manifolds? Like headers, but too small in diameter for performance use?

The key will be where the newer pipe dumps into the single exhaust. Of
course, you could always use the exhaust setup from an earlier version of
the same chassis, which would have used the earlier cast 350 manifolds.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 06:16:15 -0700
From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Subject: Re: The Wife

She wrote:
> 
> I'd rather pay whatever the cost is to get it fixed than listen to him 
> bitch at me 'cause he had to actually think about me for a change!

Why do I get the feeling that he's really gonna be paying for this?

And...  we're off!

    66 Toro 
The /\   /\ and Mike

- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 06:41:02 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: need parts

At 01:11 PM 7/9/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I have a 1970 cutlass, and I'm looking for a set of front fenders in
>decent shape for a good price.  If you happen to have a set, e-mail me,
>I'm interested.
>

        We've got NOS LH fenders and a good passenger side that has been
patched for $600.00 pr.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classsic Parts
(757) 474-0869

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 07:04:17 -0400
From: Aaron D Eoff <sheep542@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: spring for olds hood emblem...

At 09:03 PM 7/10/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Good luck most hood s emblems had a piece of wire that and through the
>spring and had a flattened out end that would prevent it from pulling
>out of the mount. Probably looking for a good one with the wire or cable
>intact would be your best option.
>

thanks terry

Aaron D Eoff
   ///////  ///////
       //       //
      //       //
     //       //
    //       //  'twas a goodyear

1977 Olds Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 07:10:57 -0400
From: Aaron D Eoff <sheep542@mindspring.com>
Subject: spacer for door striker bolt

Hello all, I was wondering how hard would it be to obtain the spacer that
fits over the striker bolt that the car door latches on to when slammed
shut. Mines wore off due to age. Ive tries alternatives like electrical tape
but it didn't last. You'd be suprise at the difference that little spacer
makes when intact!!

TIA

Aaron D Eoff
   ///////  ///////
       //       //
      //       //
     //       //
    //       //  'twas a goodyear

1977 Olds Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 08:09:26 -0400 (EDT)
From: MPHeiser@aol.com
Subject: Greg, Help!!

Greg,
   Tried to retrive your e-mail about relaeasing me from the list and when I
went to open it, the server lost contact and it is gone for ever...damn AOL!
 I am breaking down the cpu now, so please as a favor, do whatever you have
to do on your end to get me off, please??

Thanks so much,
Mark Heiser
mpheiser@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 08:35:43 -0400
From: Steve.Selinger@astramerck.com
Subject: RE: Overheating on 70 Cutlass

Doug,

 Is the temp light coming on or not?  It may be that you have the wrong
radiator cap installed.  From my experience, there are open and closed cooling
systems.  Open and closed systems have different type radiator caps.  I believe
that the correct cap for your application is a closed system cap.  If you are
running an open system cap, the cap may be trying to circulate the coolant into
the overflow bottle (that you don't have).  I hope this help out.  Let me know
what you find.


Steve S.


Doug Wrote:

Hi,

I may or may not have aproblem w/ my 70 cutlass 350 2b,  I replaced a hose and
a thermostat.  It seems like the system is building up too much pressure.  I
don't know what the engine is ruuning temp wise because All I have is the idiot
light.  I am getting coolant out of the overflow almost every time I go for a
spin.  Even on some short trips. 5-10 miles.  What is my problem?  I seem to
have good flow because I thought it was water pump.  Any Suggestions?

Thanks

Doug H

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 09:07:33 -0400
From: Steve.Selinger@astramerck.com
Subject: 72 sport wheel Button

Hello All, I have a ' 72 Cutlass Supreme with a sport steering wheel.  My Horn
button bearing the Oldsmobile Rocket is cracked.  Possibly the previous owner
may have been horn happy.  Anyhow, I would like to know if anyone has a
replacement button or knows where I might be able to obtain one.  Thanks.


Steve S.

Steve.Selinger@Astramerck.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 08:18:10 -0500
From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Subject: Re: How to blow a head gasket (and one way to avoid it?)

> My interest is in *why* the head gasket blew when it did, and I think I
have
> a theory. When you park a car after having driven it for a while, the
engine
> temperature rises, since the coolant is no longer circulating. If the
heads
> are going to warp through differing rates of expansion in the casting,
they
> will be *most* warped when the engine is at its hottest, and a head
gasket
> has the *least* clamping force from a distorted cylinder head. Add in the
> fact that the spacing between the cylinder walls on a 403 is slightly
more
> than a hairline, the extra pressure from a WOT burst on an engine that's
> been "heat-soaking" for a bit and has just been started up is probably
> enough to blow a head gasket.
> 
> So, new procedure for driving my 403 is no WOT until the temp needle has
> dropped down below 200 after having sat (it heat-soaks up to about
230'-240'
> after about 5-10 minutes of sitting on a hot day, and since that's just
the
> coolant temp, the heads are probably quite a bit hotter than that,
> especially at the wall between the cylinders, where there is no cooling
> passages, and *especially* in the wall between the middle two cylinders,
> where the exhaust valves are on either side of it).
Hey Doc your theory sounds good but......... the extra heat you see on your
gauge is coolant temp not the true temp of the head. The head is the
hottest it is going to get when the engine is running, and continues to
dump heat into the coolant as the engine cools off when you kill it. The
water pump is no longer turning, no air is moving through the rad so the
coolant temp climbs until everything is the same temperature then it all
cools down together. 
I went to a Fel-pro seminar recently and they said that when a engine gets
hot and the parts expand 
(especially aluminum head engines) the gasket is crushed. In the hot spots
like you mentioned it can be more than the gasket can spring back from.
This combined with head warpage repeated over and over and the gasket gives
up its sealing ability, Detonation also puts a big strain on the gasket,
Maybe it detonated a little when you got on it, the gasket was about to go
anyway and that finished it off. Just my opinon 
Walter

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 21:34:01 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: CHROMEWORK...............

I've said it before - i am computer illiterate - this emblem post with the
evil 'bow tie' contents was supposed to go to the chrome guy (oh, duuuuuhhhh).

Apologies for my content & delivery!


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '72 Vista Cruiser
, '69 Toronado 

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 21:35:54 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: CHROMEWORK...............

>Oh, the shame of it all.......

Gulp ~ and right after your hand slapping over Olds content in the posts!!!
Heresy, heresy.  But hey, gotta keep the other half happy with his B*w T*e
product to keep the Oldsmobiles coming in the yard.

Can you ever forgive me?  Can I belatedly claim some interloper again??


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '72 Vista Cruiser
, '69 Toronado 

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 21:36:42 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: CHROMEWORK...............

Thanks Terry.  i think they're salvageable but hey, they arent going on my
car!!


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '72 Vista Cruiser
, '69 Toronado 

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 09:51:04 -0400
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: How to blow a head gasket (and one way to avoid it?)

Hey, Barry,
	nice theory but what margin or error do you give this theory? A
better question to ask is, how long has the engine been using that head
gasket? My experience has been somewhat the same. My previous '72
Cutlass, my father's oldsmobile, (where have I heard this before),
since new,  and then passed onto me never had the head gasket change, it
finally blew more than 15 years later , over 150K miles and a lot of
racing. Why, because it was time. Although the heat soak has much to do
with almost every part failing, I think the sudden grocery store parking
lot get away might have had something to do with it but I don't think,
so let's hear those tires shout.

Fernando Proietto
Systems Analyst - Informatics

Environment Canada
Ontario Region - Monitoring & Systems Branch
4905 Dufferin St. 
Downsview, Ontario
M3H 5T4

> ----------
> From: 	Robert Barry[SMTP:RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu]
> Sent: 	Friday, July 11, 1997 12:45 AM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	How to blow a head gasket (and one way to avoid it?)
> 
> Took the 403 out to do some shopping today; parked at a grocery store,
> went
> in for about 15 minutes, came out, started the car, and it ran fine.
> At the
> exit to the store, I had to pull into traffic, so I opened her up, and
> suddenly got a *lot* of pinging and missing that did not go away. :(
> 
> Back home, checked the timing, and everything was spot on; also
> clamped the
> pickup on each wire, and found all cylinders to be firing away (there
> goes
> the easy fix...). Then I did a compression test, which I'd been
> meaning to
> do for a while, and got 170 +/-5 psi on every cylinder, *except* on
> #'s 3
> and 5, which were both at 40psi. Pulled the head, and sure enough,
> there was
> a non-stock passageway through the head gasket. So, the head's off to
> the
> machine shop tomorrow morning for a surfacing, and hopefully back
> tomorrow
> afternoon so this all goes together for a short trip I was planning on
> taking this Saturday.
> 
> My interest is in *why* the head gasket blew when it did, and I think
> I have
> a theory. When you park a car after having driven it for a while, the
> engine
> temperature rises, since the coolant is no longer circulating. If the
> heads
> are going to warp through differing rates of expansion in the casting,
> they
> will be *most* warped when the engine is at its hottest, and a head
> gasket
> has the *least* clamping force from a distorted cylinder head. Add in
> the
> fact that the spacing between the cylinder walls on a 403 is slightly
> more
> than a hairline, the extra pressure from a WOT burst on an engine
> that's
> been "heat-soaking" for a bit and has just been started up is probably
> enough to blow a head gasket.
> 
> So, new procedure for driving my 403 is no WOT until the temp needle
> has
> dropped down below 200 after having sat (it heat-soaks up to about
> 230'-240'
> after about 5-10 minutes of sitting on a hot day, and since that's
> just the
> coolant temp, the heads are probably quite a bit hotter than that,
> especially at the wall between the cylinders, where there is no
> cooling
> passages, and *especially* in the wall between the middle two
> cylinders,
> where the exhaust valves are on either side of it).
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 10:22:50 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: How to blow a head gasket (and one way to avoid it?)

At 08:18 AM 7/11/97 -0500, you wrote:
<snip>
>> temperature rises, since the coolant is no longer circulating. If the
<snip>
>Hey Doc your theory sounds good but......... the extra heat you see on your
>gauge is coolant temp not the true temp of the head. The head is the
>hottest it is going to get when the engine is running, and continues to
>dump heat into the coolant as the engine cools off when you kill it. The

<slapping forehead...> Duh... um, _yeah_, I knew that, uhhh, I was just
_testing_ you, yeah, that's the ticket...

>water pump is no longer turning, no air is moving through the rad so the
>coolant temp climbs until everything is the same temperature then it all
>cools down together. 

Right; the engine is not producing any more heat when it's just sitting
there, so any rise in temperature will simply be a matter of heat exchange,
with cool things (like coolant) getting hotter, and hot things (like that
wall between the cylinders and the cylinder head between the exhaust valves)
getting *cooler*, not hotter like my brain thought they would at 1:00am last
night (that's why I'm a theologian, and not an engineer!)

>I went to a Fel-pro seminar recently and they said that when a engine gets
>hot and the parts expand 
>(especially aluminum head engines) the gasket is crushed. In the hot spots
>like you mentioned it can be more than the gasket can spring back from.
>This combined with head warpage repeated over and over and the gasket gives
>up its sealing ability, Detonation also puts a big strain on the gasket,
>Maybe it detonated a little when you got on it, the gasket was about to go
>anyway and that finished it off. Just my opinon 

I like that idea. I'm just looking for ways of preventing this from
happening again (this is supposed to be a daily driver, not just a weekend toy).

And then "Proietto" chimed in...
>Hey, Barry,
>	nice theory but what margin or error do you give this theory? A

+/- 100%, as with all my claims...

>better question to ask is, how long has the engine been using that head
>gasket? My experience has been somewhat the same. My previous '72

Only about a year and 3000 miles, which is why I was worried about this
being a recurring problem.

>with almost every part failing, I think the sudden grocery store parking
>lot get away might have had something to do with it but I don't think,
>so let's hear those tires shout.

I'm quite sure the immediate cause was the heavy throttle out of the parking
lot, since it drove fine right up to that point, and drove lousy right
after. Don't worry, those tires will be a'turning by tonight. Right now,
though, I've got a lecture to write while the head is at the machine shop...

Thanks for the input, one and all! I'm just hoping I don't have to O-ring
this thing (who here had a recommendation by their machinist of just
installing an O-ring groove in the head, with no receiver in the block? I
might have to look into that, if I blow another gasket)
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 10:50:07 +0000
From: "Rick" <richardc@equitrac.com>
Subject: Re: Worcester Car Show

It was from July 4th to the 6th. It was unreal. It is going to be 
again next year..Except this time we will be staying the whole 
weekend.

Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 10:50:03 +0000
From: "Rick" <richardc@equitrac.com>
Subject: Re: Lightening Rods

Thanks for the input I really dont want to destroy the set up of the 
car though. I am glad I aksed first!!

Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 11:02:01 -0400
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: How to blow a head gasket (and one way to avoid it?)

Why did you say that in the beginning. Now that changes everything. O.k.
I agree with you. There...!

Fernando Proietto
Systems Analyst - Informatics

Environment Canada
Ontario Region - Monitoring & Systems Branch
4905 Dufferin St. 
Downsview, Ontario
M3H 5T4

> ----------
> From: 	Robert Barry[SMTP:rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu]
> Sent: 	Friday, July 11, 1997 10:22 AM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Re: How to blow a head gasket (and one way to avoid it?)
> 
> >better question to ask is, how long has the engine been using that
> head
> >gasket? My experience has been somewhat the same. My previous '72
> 
> Only about a year and 3000 miles, which is why I was worried about
> this
> being a recurring problem.
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 12:14:19 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: CHROMEWORK...............

On Thu, 10 Jul 1997, James Thingwold wrote:
> Can you ever forgive me?  Can I belatedly claim some interloper again??

Absolved... ;-)


Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 10:09:06 +0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: CHROMEWORK...............

James Thingwold wrote:
> 
> Thanks Terry.  i think they're salvageable but hey, they arent going on my
> car!!
> 
> Lisa Madsen
> 

Lisa,

That's the attitude I like to hear.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 12:09:20 -0300
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Subject: Re: Chrome tips

Hi all,

I just pulled the chrome exhaust tips off of the donor 68 4-4-2 car and
was wondering if it is worth rechroming them or just getting new ones.
I know Year One, Brothers, etal have them for sale, however, I would
like original tips.  If I did go with new ones, then what could I get
for my old ones?

Later...
Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 12:18:41 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Rocket Talk

Visited Charley's Rocket Talk site last night. I really enjoyed it, even 
though no one seemed to want to believe that it was me when I first 
showed up (do I have an imposter floating around somewhere?) It was 
similar to the discussions we had a while back on #oldsmobile 
on IRC but with a different crowd. Probably more accessible since all you 
need is a browser like Netscape and not a special IRC client.

I think we had 6 folks there simultaneously and I enjoyed talking with 
everyone. Even with Paul H. and his strange attraction to pink cars... ;-)

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 10:10:42 +0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: CHROMEWORK...............

James Thingwold wrote:
> 
> Can you ever forgive me?  Can I belatedly claim some interloper again??
> 
> Lisa Madsen
> 

Lisa,

You've claimed this before?

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 11:28:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Douglas J Harkema" <harkema2@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Re: Overheating on 70 Cutlass

Steve, or anyone else.
    No the Temp light is not coming on,  I'm going to check the cap right now.
 I'm also looking for a stock radio for a 70 cutlass.


Thanks
Doug


> > Doug,
>
>  Is the temp light coming on or not?  It may be that you have the wrong
> radiator cap installed.  From my experience, there are open and closed cooling

> systems.  Open and closed systems have different type radiator caps.  I believ
e
> that the correct cap for your application is a closed system cap.  If you are
> running an open system cap, the cap may be trying to circulate the coolant int
o
> the overflow bottle (that you don't have).  I hope this help out.  Let me know

> what you find.
>
>
> Steve S.
>
>
> Doug Wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I may or may not have aproblem w/ my 70 cutlass 350 2b,  I replaced a hose and

> a thermostat.  It seems like the system is building up too much pressure.  I
> don't know what the engine is ruuning temp wise because All I have is the idio
t
> light.  I am getting coolant out of the overflow almost every time I go for a
> spin.  Even on some short trips. 5-10 miles.  What is my problem?  I seem to
> have good flow because I thought it was water pump.  Any Suggestions?
>
> Thanks
>
> Doug H
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 11:32:24 -0400
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: Valve  roller rockers

	Well remember all that talk about noisy valve rockers, well I
did something about it. I bought the High Energy kit offered by
CompCams. Being in Canada things tend to take longer here, it took over
three weeks inorder for the middle men involved with the order to get
the order correct. Anyway, I got the kit, which is btw 1441-KIT, for the
350 engine. The engine is still not together, since one of the roller
rockers in the kit had a damaged roller, so I'm still waiting for the
replacement 2 weeks later. Anyway, the kit also didn't come with
instructions so I had CompCams fax me a copy. It still doesn't  mention
what the torque setting should be for the threaded studs. Using
lock-tite I snugged them down until I felt that  they won't  go any
further without breaking them.  Can't await to hear a quite engine after
all this time.
	Does anyone know if there is a something else to do with the
cold engine tie down procedure, more specific with the olds engines?
know I have to adjust the  valves one at a time with them closed but
should I stop tightening when the push rod can't be turned by hand or
when the up-down movement stops? How do I know when I reach the proper
pre-load? And is it a 1/4 turn or 1/2 turn after initial pre-load?  Do
you need to come back later and re-adjust after some mileage? I know too
many questions but I want to know the correct  procedures. O.k. so who
know this stuff?


Fernando Proietto
Systems Analyst - Informatics

Environment Canada
Ontario Region - Monitoring & Systems Branch
4905 Dufferin St. 
Downsview, Ontario
M3H 5T4

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 10:29:05 -0500
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Subject: Re: spring for olds hood emblem...

Hi Gang! I'm finally back from a long trip to South Dakota & Wyoming, and
an even longer attempt to get back on the digest. So, didja miss me?

...

*cough*

Whoa, just _look_ at the time; let's get going here!

>From: Aaron D Eoff <sheep542@mindspring.com>
>Subject: spring for olds hood emblem...
>
>Hello All,
>
>Recently my hood emblem fell off for no reason. Fortunately i didn't lose
>it. CAn anyone tell me exactly how it is attached? I know it some sort of
>spring or something. CAn i get from a parts store or would any spring do the
>trick??

This is from memory so I might miss a detail or two, but here goes:

The emblem is spring-loaded so it will "give" if something hits it. Under
the hood, the base of the emblem has an eyelet cast into it, and through
the eyelet is a very long thin elongated-W-shaped clip. The center of the
"W" loops through the eyelet; the outer legs of the "W" hold the lower end
of the spring, which is trapped between the base of the hood ornament and
the bottom of the W clip. When the emblem pulls up and out/over, the
spring compresses as the clip is pulled upwards by the emblem. The spring
itself is a long thin one, like that in a ballpoint pen, only bigger.
(You can see a similar spring/loop setup on a screen door -- the part on
a chain that's supposed to absorb the shock if the wind grabs the door.)

Okay, fine; the problem occurs not when the spring breaks (it usually
doesn't) but when either the W clip breaks or the cast eyelet on the
base of the emblem tears out. Even if you find the spring (Have you
looked? Checked the lower core support, or the ground of the space
where you usually park?), reassembling it all will be a pain. You
might want to scan junkyards for a replacement instead. If the bottom
of the emblem shows the hole ripped open, you don't have anything down
there to reattach the clip to anyway.

As for the spring itself, the local Home Depot here has a huge selection
of them; once you've found the clip and verified that the emblem is all
right, you'll probably find a cheap spring there that will fit. But my
guess is that one of parts you already have is AFU. Good luck...

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 11:28:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Douglas J Harkema" <harkema2@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Re: Overheating on 70 Cutlass

Steve, or anyone else.
    No the Temp light is not coming on,  I'm going to check the cap right now.
 I'm also looking for a stock radio for a 70 cutlass.


Thanks
Doug


> > Doug,
>
>  Is the temp light coming on or not?  It may be that you have the wrong
> radiator cap installed.  From my experience, there are open and closed cooling

> systems.  Open and closed systems have different type radiator caps.  I believ
e
> that the correct cap for your application is a closed system cap.  If you are
> running an open system cap, the cap may be trying to circulate the coolant int
o
> the overflow bottle (that you don't have).  I hope this help out.  Let me know

> what you find.
>
>
> Steve S.
>
>
> Doug Wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I may or may not have aproblem w/ my 70 cutlass 350 2b,  I replaced a hose and

> a thermostat.  It seems like the system is building up too much pressure.  I
> don't know what the engine is ruuning temp wise because All I have is the idio
t
> light.  I am getting coolant out of the overflow almost every time I go for a
> spin.  Even on some short trips. 5-10 miles.  What is my problem?  I seem to
> have good flow because I thought it was water pump.  Any Suggestions?
>
> Thanks
>
> Doug H
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 11:43:52 +0000
From: "Rick" <richardc@equitrac.com>
Subject: Sorry About the Joke

Didn' realize that all of you were going to be aggrivated with the 
joke. SO I am apologizing and will not do it again unless it has 
something to do with Olds. I thought that some of you might have 
gotten a kick out of it.

Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 08:36:49 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Subject: Re: Rocket Talk

Greg Beaulieu wrote:

> on IRC but with a different crowd. Probably more accessible since all you
> need is a browser like Netscape and not a special IRC client.

I have Netscape and I cannot access this chat room.  I keep core
dumping.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 11:48:24 +0000
From: "Rick" <richardc@equitrac.com>
Subject: Re: Headers

Robert Barry 

You mentioned in your last email that you thought that there were 
some other companies that make headers that I can use. I have checked 
all the Catalogs and called people like Sanders and Headers by ED and 
they all say that they do not make them.Can you give me a lead to 
follow or something. It would be appreciated. 

Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 11:54:27 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Overheating on 70 Cutlass

At 11:28 AM 7/11/97 -0400, you wrote:
>    No the Temp light is not coming on,  I'm going to check the cap right now.
> I'm also looking for a stock radio for a 70 cutlass.

I'll second the motion about getting a real temperature gauge, with numbers
and everything; cheap, and you know where you are (an engine running at the
right operating temperature can seem to throw off a lot of heat, especially
if it's a warm day). One thing I'd highly recommend is adding an overflow
tank to your system, if you haven't already. This will increase the coolant
capacity of your car, and give you an extra margin of protection in case
your engine does tend to run hot (which is the case with many of our Oldses).

If you're looking for a stock-type radio for your '70, I've got one from a
'72 that's pretty neat. It's an AM/FM mono unit, with the "flippin' dial"
front; when you change from AM to FM, the dial flips as well, to reveal the
numbers for the different bands. Your owner's manual should show this option
(at least the owner's manual from my '70 does); the radio from the '72 is
identical to the '70. If you're interested, make me an offer (off-list,
please); I'm keeping the non-stock unit in my SX.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 11:54:25 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Chrome tips

At 12:09 PM 7/11/97 -0300, you wrote:
>I just pulled the chrome exhaust tips off of the donor 68 4-4-2 car and
>was wondering if it is worth rechroming them or just getting new ones.
>I know Year One, Brothers, etal have them for sale, however, I would
>like original tips.  If I did go with new ones, then what could I get
>for my old ones?

Repro units are $50/pair, which is probably cheaper than what it would cost
to rechrome a pair. You might find a place to do it cheaper than that, but
just make sure they promise to go easy on the buffing... (right, Lisa??? ;)

The price you could get would depend upon the condition; if they're rusted
or the chrome is bad, they're probably not worth more than $5-$10. If
they're serviceable, you might get $20. As a rule of thumb,
less-than-perfect originals are worth less than half of what excellent
reproductions cost (sometimes, much less).

Then again, if the reproductions are not that good (as is the case with some
quarter panels), original or NOS parts would be worth *more* than the
reproduction parts, sometimes *much* more (i.e. $180 for a repro quarter
panel, vs. asking prices of $1800 for perfect NOS quarters).
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 12:07:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: phouse@thor.feith.com (Peter L. House)
Subject: Re: Sorry About the Joke

> 
> Didn' realize that all of you were going to be aggrivated with the 
> joke. SO I am apologizing and will not do it again unless it has 
> something to do with Olds. I thought that some of you might have 
> gotten a kick out of it.
> 
> Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>
> 

I thought that it was funny.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 12:07:18 -0400
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: Gas war

Dave Paulison wrote:
> 
> >When is the last time anyone had a gas
> >war going that was worth it?
> 
> We got one going on here right now...three gas stations on the same
> block.  93 octane started at $1.43 or $1.44/gal, now its down to
> $1.16/gal.  I can live with that...
> 
> Dave Paulison                    1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
> Palm Bay, Florida                1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
> dpauliso@juno.com


Must be nice...here in Canada, 93 octane is going for 64.9 cents a
litre, which is about $2.45 a gallon!  If it goes much higher, I'll have
to start burning regular (87).

S. Dave Ward   (Peterborough, Ontario)

'78 Delta 88 (350)
'85 Delta 88 (307)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 11:23:43 -0500
From: "smardale@airmail.net" <smardale@airmail.net>
Subject: Re: Old Tools/Muscle Car Review

At 09:43 PM 7/10/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Does anyone know of a source of old tools, such as the ones listed in my
>1965 Olds Chassis Service manual. The coil spring compressor used looks
>cheap, but it would fit, and I need one. It's tool BT-6505. Does someone
>here have one that I could rent? =)
>
>Also, if anyone wants the number to Muscle Car Review, let me know. You can
>order back issues from them, they seem to have a lot of Olds cars featured,
>and is a fun magazine. Let me know.
>Nick
- ------------------------------------------

Nick,

I've used Autozone's with no problem on my '65 442... I think it's a $40
deposit, fully refundable upon return.

Good Luck!

Scott Martindale
smardale@airmail.net

1965 442 Holiday Coupe
1965 442 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 12:27:53 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Headers

At 11:48 AM 7/11/97 +0000, you wrote:
>Robert Barry 

Or you can call me Bob...

>You mentioned in your last email that you thought that there were 
>some other companies that make headers that I can use. I have checked 
>all the Catalogs and called people like Sanders and Headers by ED and 
>they all say that they do not make them.Can you give me a lead to 
>follow or something. It would be appreciated. 

Really, Hooker doesn't list an application for the '64-'77 A-body with a
330-350 motor? If not, you might try the Cyclone/Blackjack category of
headers (cheap street headers, as opposed to pricey race headers). I don't
have numbers of these places at my fingertips; isn't anybody on the list
running a small-block with headers in their '64-'77 Cutlass?
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 12:53:19 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Headers

Robert Barry wrote:
> 
> At 11:48 AM 7/11/97 +0000, you wrote:
> >Robert Barry
> 
> Or you can call me Bob...
> 
> >You mentioned in your last email that you thought that there were
> >some other companies that make headers that I can use. I have checked
> >all the Catalogs and called people like Sanders and Headers by ED and
> >they all say that they do not make them.Can you give me a lead to
> >follow or something. It would be appreciated.
> 
> Really, Hooker doesn't list an application for the '64-'77 A-body with a
> 330-350 motor? If not, you might try the Cyclone/Blackjack category of
> headers (cheap street headers, as opposed to pricey race headers). I don't
> have numbers of these places at my fingertips; isn't anybody on the list
> running a small-block with headers in their '64-'77 Cutlass?

Try Jeg's.

- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
Ev_Corp Main Admin.
delta_v plug G/S/O Admin.
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 13:19:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Subject: Re: Gas war

> Must be nice...here in Canada, 93 octane is going for 64.9 cents a
> litre, which is about $2.45 a gallon!  If it goes much higher, I'll have

$2.45 Canadian == $1.79 U.S.

On the July 1st weekend, there was somewhat of a gas price war in Toronto,
when regular grade plunged to 50.9 cents/litre ($1.40 U.S. per U.S. gallon).

> '78 Delta 88 (350)
> '85 Delta 88 (307)

Those low compression engines should run just fine on 87 octane fuel.

Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 13:17:24 -0500
From: dhamlett@mitec.net
Subject: Re: Wanted W 30 Aluminum intake

Kurt Heinrich wrote:> 
> You can also check the classifieds on Brycemans page..
> BTW, Jim Stohlman also has a '66 W-30, totally restored, for sale
> $42,500.

I just picked up a copy of "Deals on Wheels" last night and heres what I
found:
"1966 Oldsmobile 442-W-30, 400 tri-power with factory ram air, bronze,
black vinyl, 4 speed, 4:56 posi, factory tach, buckets, power seat,
steering and brakes. $15,495. (605)342-0872 Rapid City SD"

NOW...This is probably not what it claims to be but if it were........
Might be worth a phone call if any of you guys have 15 grand burning a
hole in your pocket. =)
- -- 

- -----------------------------------------
      Dan Hamlett
      1966 Cutlass Convertible
      1995 Cutlass Supreme SL
      mailto:dhamlett@mitec.net
      http://www.mitec.net/~dhamlett
- -----------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 03:03:26 -0700
From: dgerow@stonehill.edu (Daniel R. Gerow)
Subject: Re: Sorry About the Joke

Peter L. House wrote:
> 
> >
> > Didn' realize that all of you were going to be aggrivated with the
> > joke. SO I am apologizing and will not do it again unless it has
> > something to do with Olds. I thought that some of you might have
> > gotten a kick out of it.
> >
> > Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>
> >
> 
> I thought that it was funny.


Hey, I thought it was funny too...Sometimes, just sometimes, the MAN
gets a little too ridiculous with usage of power.  Of course, that is
just my opinion.

Rock on!

Daniel

sXe

'69 442

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 15:06:58 -0700
From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Subject: SPAM - It's not just for mail list anymore!

For a limited time only (like the next 10 years or so) Edison3 is 
offering you a free copy of 128K of return fire.  Don't delay!  Go 
to http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/spam.gif now!

    66 Toro 
The /\   /\ and Mike      ;)


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 15:19:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: PaulP34167@aol.com
Subject: Re: Gas war

In a message dated 97-07-11 12:11:44 EDT, you write:

> We got one going on here right now...three gas stations on the same
>  block.  93 octane started at $1.43 or $1.44/gal, now its down to
>  $1.16/gal.  I can live with that...

Just heard a report on the news that inflation is almost nonexistent these
days.  That translates into low prices for food, clothing, and the most
important, gasoline for our thirsty Oldss.  Now, if I could just find a
job...

Paul Pate (graduate in August w/ mech. engineering degree)
70 Cutlass S
84 Camaro LG4

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 15:11:58 +0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: Sorry About the Joke

Daniel R. Gerow wrote:
> 
> Peter L. House wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Didn' realize that all of you were going to be aggrivated with the
> > > joke. SO I am apologizing and will not do it again unless it has
> > > something to do with Olds. I thought that some of you might have
> > > gotten a kick out of it.
> > >
> > > Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>
> > >
> >
> > I thought that it was funny.
> 
> Hey, I thought it was funny too...Sometimes, just sometimes, the MAN
> gets a little too ridiculous with usage of power.  Of course, that is
> just my opinion.
> 
> Rock on!
> 
> Daniel
> 
> sXe
> 
> '69 442

I wasn't thrilled w/the joke & I was't anoyed either.  If I had a
choice, I wouldn't have had it here.  I won't ask anyone their choice on
having me here.  

Gregg's job is to strike a happy medium on tast here.  He is doing his
job very well.  Peter didn't commit a crime & Gregg didn't cut off a
hand or finger.  He just stated that the joke may have gone over the
line.  That's not an unreasonal observation.  Of course, Peter wasn't
unreasonable in both his original post nor his apology either.  The
whole thing sounds settled to me.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 13:24:24 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Subject: Re: Sorry About the Joke

Enough is enough.  This is Greg's list.  What he says goes.
End of story.  Amen.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 17:16:38 -0400
From: hhzimmerman <hhzimmerman@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Headers- notes and tips on installing

Robert Barry wrote:
>  isn't anybody on the list
> running a small-block with headers in their '64-'77 Cutlass?
>

Yep, I have Blackjack aluminum coated headers on my '71 cutlass 'vertable with a 350.  I don't know the 
model number, but I just called Summit racing and they hooked me up with a pair.  I put them on over 6 
years ago, and they are just about rusted out- I would pay the extra money up front to get a pair ceramic 
coated- it's worth it to not have to "fit" a new pair into the car.

A few notes on the blackjacks-

1) I blew out the first four sets of gaskets at the head- after looking carefully, I found out that one of 
the tubes was touching the bottom of the block, and holding the flange from seating flat against the 
engine.  I hammered it flat and blew another set of gaskets- after looking carefully again, I found out 
that the exaust balance tube (which was welded up with the headers not seated right) was holding the flange 
out of alignment.  A new balance tube fixed it.

2) To get them in the car- get a propane (Mapp is better) torch and a big socket with an extention.  When 
the header needs to be "adjusted" to clear something, heat it until it glows and wack the s**t out of it.

3) I had to "adjust" the header around the block, starter motor strap, engine mounts, oil filter mount, 
etc.  Oh, yeah, the tranny cooling lines (if it's an automatic) need to rerouted away from the heat.

4) Unless you plan to use a remote location oil filter set-up, you need to find an el-cheapo pep-boys oil 
filter wrench that is thin enough to get around the filter.

5) The starter needs to be removed when messing with the driver side header.

6) To get them up under the car, jack the car as high as you can get it (about 18").

7) Order Summit Racing's stainless steel header bolts, collector reducers, and reducer bolts.  The SS bolts 
have built in shoulders (no washer needed), and reduced heads that are 3/8" size as opposed to 7/16" so 
they are easier to get in.  Also, the SS reducer is recommened because I used the reducers that came with 
the headers, and they rusted out- I just paid $112 three days ago to get new ones welded in.

8) Felpro high performance header gaskets with Permatex Ultra copper on both sides are the only leakproof 
set-up I've found so far.


Hope these help somebody, I spent a lot of blood, sweat, and money to find out this information!

- -greg

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 17:28:07 -0400
From: dgerow@stonehill.edu (Daniel R. Gerow)
Subject: Re: Old Tools/Muscle Car Review

Nick Gomez wrote:

> Also, if anyone wants the number to Muscle Car Review, let me know.
> You can
> order back issues from them, they seem to have a lot of Olds cars
> featured,
> and is a fun magazine. Let me know.
> Nick

   Could I please have their address.  I have searched about 25
different magazine stores in my area with no luck.  Thanks alot.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 17:38:16 -0400
From: helle@theonramp.net (Jim Helle)
Subject: water pump stud bolts

The guy that owned my cutlass prior changed the clutch fan and put this
put this strieght drive fan on. I sound like a jet plane just about to
take off. He did leave the clutch fan in the trunk. The only problem is
noone knows (in the parts houses I have checked, thier book don't go
back that far) the size and length of the stud that goes into the water
pump and back into the fan base. Someone out there does know the correct
answer, rite?

Thanks 
Jim

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 17:57:36 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale 

                              C&M Classic Parts

Hours:  Mon-Fri  6:00 pm - 10:00 pm, Sat 9:00 am - 6:00 pm
____________________________________________________________________ 
Bumper Bracket sets ALL years  $25.00 pr
70-72 455 Engine Mounts (NEW)  $40.00 pr

68-72 350 Engine Mounts (NEW)  $38.00 pr

TH350 Shift Cable Bracket  $15.00

New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts for 1964-1972 Cutlass/442
_______________________________________________     
66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) $34.50 ea                           
68-75 SSII/III Center Caps (N.O.S.) $34.50 ea                       
69 Cutlass RH Grilles (N.O.S.) $70.00 ea                             
70-72 LH Coupe/Conv Door Skin (N.O.S.)  $200.00
70-72 Cutlass/442 LH Fenders (N.O.S.) $450.00 ea               
71-72 Turn Signal Lens (N.O.S.)  $90.00 pr                          
71-72 Stone Shields (N.O.S.) $38.00 ea                              
71-72 Headlight Housings (plastic) (N.O.S.) $90.00 pr          
71-72 Cutlass Rear Bumpers (N.O.S.) $380.00 ea               
71-75  Cutlass Fender Emblems (N.O.S.)  $19.50 ea            
72 Cutlass Supreme & Hurst/Olds Grilles (N.O.S.)  $125.00 pr

Used Parts
_______________________________________________      
64 Cutlass/442                       
RH Headlight Bezel  $15.00                                                  
Front Bumper Core  $40.00                                                   
LH/RH Taillight Lens  $8.00 ea                                            
F-85 Fender Emblem (nice)  $5.00                                      
V-8 Emblem  $5.00                                                             

66 Cutlass/442
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
66 Cutlass/442 Full Turbine Hucaps (very, very nice)  $130.00 set
66/67 Dash Pad (very good, black)  $125.00  
Headlight Bezels  $40.00 pr                                                  
Cutlass Front Grille  $40.00                                                  
LH Rear side molding  $10.00                                              
Rear Window Molding Set  $65.00 set                                  
Exterior A-Pillar Chrome Moldings  $15.00 pr                        
F-85/Cutlass Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea                                  

67 Cutlass/442
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
67 LH Fender (Arizona part) Very nice  $350.00
67 RH Fender (small hole, straight)  $200.00
Cutlass Headlight Bezels  $55.00 pr                                    
Front Bumper Cores  $45.00 ea                                           
A Pillar Moldings  $15.00 pr                                              
Deluxe Full Wheel Covers  $20.00 ea                                

68 Cutlass/442
68 Lower Dash (radio area)  (nice)  $25.00
68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
68-69 LH Quarter Panel  (mint)  $225.00
68-69 RH Quarter Panel  (mint)  $225.00
68/69 SSII 14x6 Wheels (4) mint  $$160.00 set
68-69 Dash Pad (mint, Gold)  $120.00
68-69 Top Fender Moldings (near windshield, mint)  $40.00 pr
68-69 14x6 SSII Wheels (set of 4, nice)  $160.00 set
68 Cutlass/442 Hood Hinges  $50.00 pr                                
68-72 Cutlass S LH Rear Side Glass (clear)  $45.00              
Rear Window Molding Sets  $85.00 set                               
68 Cutlass/442 Std Horn Button (black, nice)  $7.00                     
68 Air Cleaner Stove Pipe (pipe only)  $10.00                              
68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $20.00 ea                                            
68-72 Cowl mouldings  $25.00ea                                
68-72 B-Pillar Molding Set (black, mint) $25.00 pr 
68/69 442 Front Fender LH (need small patch)  $75.00

69 Cutlass/442
69 Lower Dash (radio area)  (nice)  $25.00
69 C/S Side Moldings  $20.00 ea
68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
68-69 LH Quarter Panel  (mint)  $225.00
68-69 RH Quarter Panel  (mint)  $225.00
68/69 SSII 14x6 Wheels (4) mint  $$160.00 set
68-69 Dash Pad (mint, Gold)  $120.00
68-69 Top Fender Moldings (near windshield, mint)  $40.00 pr
68-69 14x6 SSII Wheels (set of 4, nice)  $160.00 set
69 Core Support (3 Row Radiator, nice)  $175.00
69 Cutlass Grilles (mint)  $200.00 pr
69 Headlight Housings  (mint)  $80.00 pr
69 Cutlass/442 Doors (mint pair)  $300.00 pr / $160.00 ea
442 Grilles (nice)  $180.00 pr                                               
442 Hood Tongue  $35.00 ea                                                     
Hood Hinges  $50.00 pr                                                       
Hood Louver Chrome  $35.00 pr                                          
Hood Louver Moldiings  $35.00 pr                                        
Windshield Molding Sets  $65.00 set                                 
Rear Window Molding Sets  $85.00 set                                
69-72 Floor Shift Steering Column (very good)  $100.00
69 Cutlass/442 Front Bumper (good cond) $100.00
69 LH Top Fender Moldings (excellent) $35.00
69 LH Fender (no rust holes)  $380.00
69 RH Fender (same)  $380.00
69 Rear Bumper (V05 rub strip) one small ding  $185.00
69 Front and Rear 4 Doors   (small dings, no rust) $75.00 ea
69 Tail Light Bezels  (mint)  $150.00 pr
69 4 Door Panels (Gold, cloth, nice)  $40.00 ea

70 Cutlass/442
70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switch Bezels  $5.00 ea             
70 RH Sport Mirror Shell  $40.00
SSII Wheels (set of 4)  $160.00
70 F-85 Horn Button (cheap style wheel, excellent)  $10.00
70 Oldsmobile Options Folder  $5.00                                    
70 C/S Wide side moldings  $20.00 ea
69-70 C/S Front Hood Rocket (nice)  $12.00                                
S Hood Chrome Vents  $35.00 pr                                        
S Hood Vent Moldings  $35.00 pr                                        
"S" Pillared Coupe Door Panels (good cond)  $40.00 pr         
Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $90.00                                  
Black A/C and Non A/C Dash Pads  $100.00 ea                  
Blue Auto Shift Console  $125.00 (w/shifter)                  
70-71  Glove Box Doors  $15.00 ea
70-72 RH Fender (needs patch panel)   $100.00                               
70 Cutlass 'S' Tail Light Lens   $10.00 ea
70-72 Cutlass S Vinyl Top rear moldings (few pits)  $8.00 pr
70 Cutlass Supreme Flat Hood   $125.00

71 Cutlass/442
71-72 10 Bolt 2.73:1 (open rear)  $75.00
71-72 Sport Mirrors (excellent cond)  $100.00 pr 
SSII/III Wheels  (set of 4)  $160.00                                       
71-72 Cutlass S/442 Hood Louvers (nice)  $35.00 pr                     
71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00
71 Front Rocket Emblem (nice)  $5.00

72 Cutlass/442
71-72 10 Bolt 2.73:1 (open rear)  $75.00
71-72 Sport Mirrors (excellent cond)  $100.00 pr 
72 Cutlass/442 Owners Manual  $7.00                                  
SSII/III Wheels (set of 4)  $160.00                                          
72 Cutlass Supreme Side Moldings (excellent)  $110.00 set  
71-72 Cutlass S/442 Hood Louvers (nice)  $35.00 pr                     
71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00

Toronado Parts
66-67 Toronado Chrome Dash Bezel (Mint)  $40.00
66-68 Toronado Pitman Arm (excellent cond) GM  $45.00              
66-? Toronado Front Brake Drum  $15.00                               
66-69 Toronado Interior Moldings (Ivory)  $5.00 ea                   
66-69 Toronado LH & RH Rear Side Windows  $30.00 ea        
66-68 Toronado Back Glass  $40.00                                      
68-69 Toronado Headlight Vacuum Module  $40.00                
                          

We are considering reproducting the extremely rare 66 Tri-carb Shroud
assembly if we get 10-20 orders. It won't be cheap to do this. This is the
chrome top shroud and the black lower. It will be made of fiber glass and
plastic chrome plated. Prices will be around $550.00 ea and will look
correct but won't cost an arm and a leg. Considerations for the part will be
made by 1 Aug 97. The mold will be taken from an original shroud assembly we
have. Please Email us with the title "Shroud".  The reproduction 70-72
Cutlass/442 Auto Trans Console Indicators $24.00 ea. plus $3.00 shipping.
We have also reproduced the 63 Starfire console shift lens $35.00 plus $3.00
shipping. We have recieved a 67-69 2 spd auto shift lens and will be
reproducing these for the Jetaway Trans. cars. Looking for a decent 64-66
auto trans shift lens for reference to reproduce.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts
OCA #24275
67 442 W-30 Trac-Pac
67 Cutlass Supreme
'70 Cutlass SX W-32
'72 442 (350)
'94 Cutlass Supreme  
'96 C-1500
Virginia  Beach, VA
(757) 474-0869

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 17:42:45 -0400
From: "MROTHE" <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Valve  roller rockers

> 
> did something about it. I bought the High Energy kit offered by
> CompCams.

> 	Does anyone know if there is a something else to do with the
> cold engine tie down procedure, more specific with the olds engines?
> know I have to adjust the  valves one at a time with them closed but
> should I stop tightening when the push rod can't be turned by hand or
> when the up-down movement stops? How do I know when I reach the proper
> pre-load? 

Frenando, 

I have the Mondello kit on my 71 442, and the kit is virtually identical in
how it is done.  This is what I did for initial start, and it worked great.
 Valves closed, lifters "soft" (hardly any oil left for some give) start
tightening until they just contact the valve and pushrod with all slack
taken up.  Then I did another 1/2 turn tight to give the lifter some
preload.  20-60 thousandths was the spec, I think.  Anyway, it took some
time to do all this, but the engine fired with no rattling.  After running
it for a while, I didn't trust myself, so I wanted to do it the old Ch*vy
way. I cut an old valve cover in half lengthwise to gain access to the
rocker nuts and keep from oiling the headers.  I used the clip on splash
guards for the rockers, and then adjusted each valve with the engine at
idle.  Loosen each till they clacked, tighten till they stop, then an
additional 1/2 turn.  Been set ever since.  No clinking noise either.

Hope this helps you.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #745
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