
oldsmobile-digest       Wednesday, July 9 1997       Volume 01 : Number 741



Windshield swap
ADMIN: No Spammers Here
Thermostat and fan clutch
Measuring radius of stripe curves.
Re: Rear End Ration quesion and problem
list
Re: 1927 REO --check this out please.
'59 Oldmobile
Re: WHAT EXACTLY IS A RAMROD?
Re: Headers and Edelbrock carb on 307
Re: 1931 owners ?
Re: Regarding a stereo system
Re: ignition,doors, and trunk key/lock replacements
Re: The H.P. of a 350...
73 build-up phases 1, 2, and 4 commence the 23rd
Re: Lansing where are you?
RE: found parts for G-body Cutlass
Re: TH200R4 or whatever the overdirve is called
Re: Cheap paint recommendations?
Re: 1927 REO --check this out please.
Re: interior vinyl for bucket seats
Re: Lansing where are you?
Re: TH200R4 or whatever the overdirve is called
Re: Regarding a stereo system
Re: Regarding a stereo system
Re: Still Snakebit...  ;-)
Fw: Home-based Business Opportunity
Re: Spamming Spammers
UNBOUNCE: Digest 742 Ideas
100th Anniversary of Olds at Lansing
Re: Hurst/Olds decals
Re: '64 - '67 4-4-2 option codes
Re:1968 Delta Custom
Re: Cheap paint recommendations?
Re: Bad Weekend
Re: Tourqe convertors and shift kits
Help!!!  I need a set of Heads or a good C in DC

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Jul 1997 15:41:27 -0400
From: uknowme <uknowme@mail.botanybay.net>
Subject: Windshield swap

Hi all
I was wondering if a windshield out of an 81 grand prix will fit into my
81 Cutlass Supreme??? I was told any full size Gm car windshield would
fit. 
Thanks
Tim
81 Cutlass Supreme (under construction)
80 Mustang (winter beater haha)
80 Camaro (almost gone)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Jul 1997 17:45:36 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: ADMIN: No Spammers Here

It has been brought to my attention that a member of this list has been
cited as being the source of the spamming that occurred recently. I have
checked the original message and can confirm that no member of the Olds
list was the source. Such action would be cause for instant removal from
the list. 

A few members erroneously replied to the spam message and caused it to be 
reposted to the list. While such errors are regrettable they are not 
cause for removal. Again, please do not reply to such messages.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Jul 1997 16:15:02 -0500
From: <Michael_Baugher@americancentury.com>
Subject: Thermostat and fan clutch

Does anyone know what the correct fan clutch and thermostat are for
a 69 Cutlass with a 350 and a/c?

A local parts store gave me these choices.

Fan Clutch:    Non-thermal
          Thermal
          Thermal with extra cooling

Thermostat:    160 degree
          180 degree
          195 degree


Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Jul 1997 17:13:41 -0400
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Measuring radius of stripe curves.

Hi all,

Will anyone assist me in this?  I'm trying to measure the radius of the
curves on the stripes on my 69 H/O.  I think I remember from geometry
classes about 200 years ago, but it is baffling me right now.  Maybe I'm
not in the right frame of mind for this.........I think I'll have a beer
and relax.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Jul 1997 19:24:10 -0400
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: Rear End Ration quesion and problem

Igor wrote:
> 
>         I have got a 1981 Delta 88 with a 307, th 250 and a 2.73 rear end.  I
> don't even have to tell you how slow this thing is off the line.  I would
> like to have a 350 motor but don't want to do it because I would like to
> prove some of mine rice burner friends that this motor can do it.  I was
> thinking to change the transmition to a th200r4 (overdrive).  I know this
> tranny is not great but that is all I could afford from a junk yard.
> Consequently, I would like to raise the Rear End Ration to maybe 3.43 or
> 3.73.  Would this make the Delta faster off the line?.  The only reason why
> I want the overdrive is to be able to raise the rear end and still have
> decent mpg.  How would milege and engine ware differ from the current
> setup.  Any suggestions are helpful.
> 
> Igor Todorovic
> 1981 Delta 88
> 1995 Intrepid 3.3


Hi Igor,

If you want to improve the holeshot on your Delta, the best thing you
could do is play with the gear ratios.  One of the best things you could
do is go to a low-geared three speed auto trans, and a wicked set of
rear-end gears, such as 4.11's.  If you want to do this, I'd suggest
going to a limited-slip or full-posi differential, because the added
torque will smoke the tires, and let the "rice-burner" (Jap?) pull
ahead.

A friend of mine has a Chevelle (sin!) which is nothing more than a
"play" car.  He's got a 350 with a 3spd. auto, stage 2 shift-kit, and a
set of 5.88's in the rear end.  When that thing shifts into 3rd, it can
still kick it sideways, just because of the sheer torque.

The lower you go in gear ratios, the higher the torque, which is the
force required to get the car moving off the line. But remember--the
lower rear-end you have, the higher RPM you'll have in top gear, and
that will sacrifice your fuel efficency.  My friend's Chevelle can't go
past ninety miles an hour, because the tach needle is resting at almost
5500rpm.  But it's a killer off the line...

You said that your Delta has the four-speed auto (overdrive) trans,
right?  Does it use/burn any transmission fluid, or anything silly like
that?  Believe it or not, the 4th gear planetary cluster is
plastic-coated (so I'm told), just to make it smoother and quieter.  I'd
be careful just how much torque you put to this tranny, especially if
it's a high-miler, like my '85 Delta.  Four-speed trannies are known to
be weak(er), that's why most racers run a two-speed Powerglide, just
because they're stronger, and there's less shifting involved.

I think I've answered your question, but if there's anything else, just
ask. I was a Co-op student at a local GM dealership, and that's where I
met the guy with the "holeshot" Chevelle.  He was the transmission
mechanic there...

S. Dave Ward	(Peterborough, Ontario, CANADA)

"You could set my Olds on fire, or beat it 'til it's dead, but I still
wouldn't trade it for an IROC-Z!"

1978 Olds Delta 88 (350)
1985 Olds Delta 88 (307)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Jul 1997 19:28:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: MLyons8884@aol.com
Subject: list

I signed up for this mailing list last week and have not received anything
exdept the welcome post.  If you could check and see what happened I would
appreciate it.
Thanks Chris

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Jul 1997 18:32:38 -0500
From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Subject: Re: 1927 REO --check this out please.

- ----------
> From: FERRERO@uno.cc.geneseo.edu
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 1927 REO --check this out please.
> Date: Tuesday, July 08, 1997 1:53 PM
> 
> hello everyone!  Tonight, I will hopefully be buying a 1927 REO 
> Woverine touring car.  Can anyone tell me any information about this 
> kind of car?  how many were made?  how many are still around?  where can 
> i find parts?  (the car needs a total restoration)  does anyone have any 
> suggestions, tips, comments, etc. to say about this?  (i'm sure many of 
> you do!!)  ;)
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> --joe	-1947 olds dynamic76
> 	-1948 olds dynamic66
> 	
This sounds like one for the Wiz. Where is he?
Walter

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2025 19:36:57 -0400
From: "Yugo" <caroline@nrtco.net>
Subject: '59 Oldmobile

Hi!  I am a brand new user of the net and not quite sure what I am doing. 
One of the first things I would like to do is get information (any and all)
on a 59 Olds (98 I think).  My hubby has been posted to Yugoslavia for 6
(long) months and he owns such a monster.  I would like to get some
information on restoring, technical and whatever so that can send it to him
since he plans to restore his car upon his return.  

I am not sure how to "surf" for info and I would appreciate any info you
have.

Thanks,



Yugo.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Jul 1997 20:53:04 -0400
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: WHAT EXACTLY IS A RAMROD?

At 09:15 AM 7/8/97 -0400, you wrote:
>No
>> 
>> Actually this car had an automatic tranny so no extra points or money
>> for that matter, unless they had a special tranny put in, did they?

Well, the TH350 transmission used in that application has a special code,
and supposedly different shift characteristics, so it might be valuable to
someone restoring a W-31 where the original transmission had been changed.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Jul 1997 20:53:07 -0400
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Headers and Edelbrock carb on 307

At 02:40 AM 7/8/97 -0600, you wrote:
>	Would getting headers for my stock 307 Delta 88 improve performance and by
>how much.  Also how much would it cost.  

Unless your stock exhaust system was posing a restriction on airflow, moving
to headers would not improve performance significantly. Increase noise, yes,
but a louder car is not necessarily a faster car (though it may feel so). If
you went to headers, you'd also have to change the transmission crossmember,
and add an exhaust system on the other side of the car. Probably about $600
by the time you're done.

>And/or would a edelbrock carb do
>enaugh good to be $450 canadian worth.

It wouldn't do enough good to be worth $50. Again, the problem is not that
your carb or exhaust is too small; the restrictions lie in the vavle/port
size, the lift and duration of the camshaft, and most significantly, the
highway rear gears that keep your engine revving much lower than any speed
at which you can take advantage of those modifications.

Change gears, add a K&N filter, a turbo muffler, and if you still want more
power, add a cam and port the heads. If you still want more power, install a
350 or 455.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jul 1997 03:35:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: SPotter596@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1931 owners ?

My friend has a beautiful 31 in mint condition under cover for 40 yrs. He
also has a shell sitting in 8' of blackberries of a 31 4 door(suicide) I am
unsure what is left on it? The owner just recently died and I am good friends
with his son. His preoccupation
was a 64 lincoln rag top w/suicide. Neet place to visit dodge brothers sreen
side delivery under cover and all there, model a's an t's and even a
studebaker. The cream is the olds, and for that matter, the one sitting
amongst the foliage.

If you ever in the northwest, I could easily get you in to look.
Car has the deluxe three spare tire kit and running motor(though have never
heard it)

Steve Potter
65 F-85 deluxe w/67 cutlass 400
65 cutlass
50 ch*v deluxe(beat me with a bowtie)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Jul 1997 20:31:31 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Regarding a stereo system

> >
> > Ever since I changed the alternator I have been getting vary poor base
> > response.
> > I checked all the conections and concluded that it is eirther the
> > nature of the RCA input to create a poping noise...
> 
> By "poor bass response" do you mean weak bass or do you have a popping
> noise?  ...or both?  In either case, if you have the same problem with
> the motor not running, it doesn't seem like something you could blame on
> the altenator.
> 
> If you have WEAK bass, you might have a reversed phasing.  Double check
> the wiring that all channels are wired with the same "polarity".  Also
> consider jumping around the equalizer -- just in case it a dud -- since
> the problem also started when it was installed.
> 
> > ...what kind of conection shoul RCA wires provide (i was always under
> > the impression that it should be better)
> 
> Bettter than what?  RCA connectors are low power connectors, not really
> suitable for output connections to speakers -- except maybe with small
> amps -- but they should work.


I ~think~ what's happening here with the RCA question is that the preamp
signal to the EQ has been converted from speaker  (hi level) to RCA(low
level).  For any and all preamp wiring, I ~only~ recommend low level
inputs.  Running the speaker to RCA convertors is a certain cause of
problems.  If the deck does not have RCA outputs, get one that does. 
Period.  When running a high power system, that's the only proper way to
start.  If the system lost power when you installed the alternator,
perhaps you fouled up a connection up there, like the main power wire
from the battery to the amp.  If this is a ~true~ high quality 300W X 4
Amp  (which is highly unlikely, unless it ~barely~ fits in your trunk)
then you should be running some tree-trunk sized power cable straight to
it.  If we're talking 300W total, then 8 ga. power cable should be a
minimum.  The amp's ground should be of the same gauge (or larger) as
the power wire.  A good, clean, solid ground is crucial to any high
performance car audio system.  

What is the nature of the popping you discuss?  Is it engine noise?  Is
it system noise?  Any clues?  Double check the integrity of the grounds
at the deck ~and~ EQ.  These both need to be as close to perfect as you
can get.  (You ~can~ get away with much less, but for the process of
chasing noises, you want to know it's the best it can be)  The
connection should be at a solid metal portion of the car (often the
lower dash support) and should be wire brushed to a good bare metal
surface before bolting it down.  It should be tight, also.  Make sure
the battery has a good ground.  It should be grounded to the engine
~and~ to the body.  All these connections should be equally prepared and
clean.  It's often a good idea to make sure the engine's grounded to the
firewall, also.  I like to run a ground to the frame also, but that's
not 100% necessary.  

Make sure your RCA cables are of a good, shielded nature.  That cheap
VCR dubbing cable you find at K-Mart won't cut it.  Go with a good name
brand like Soundquest or Phoenix Gold, or Scosche, etc.  They're
~big~time pricey, but they're worth it.  If the popping is a turn on
thump, you may have to live with it, or upgrade the violating piece of
equipment.  Many entry level EQ's will do this.  (Many amps will too,
for that matter...)  

As for the bass response, does the EQ have a crossover that may be set
wrong?  Are you using high pass outputs to run a sub amp?  What size
speakers are you running, and how are they mounted/boxed, etc?

Oh, and when you run that power cable from the battery, make sure to use
good connectors, and keep some sort of fuse device (circuit breakers are
my favorite, but they're big $$$) within 18 inches of the battery (IASCA
standard) The closer the better.  It's for your protection, not the
stereo's.  

Check through this stuff, and if you still need answers, fire away. 
This is what I do for a living, so...  Hey, if your in the Montana area,
just swing it by!  :)  (Yeah right, I'm ~right on the way~ to absolutely
nowhere, but...

Charley Buehner
buehner@lyrea.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Jul 1997 22:27:09 -0400 (EDT)
From: PaulP34167@aol.com
Subject: Re: ignition,doors, and trunk key/lock replacements

In a message dated 97-07-08 19:28:30 EDT, you write:

> > I need to replace the ignition key, the doors, and trunk locks and key
>  > on my 64 olds.  Does anyone have a source for such a set?  anyone ever
>  > do this before?

Last time I checked the local auto parts store had these.  If that isn't
successful try a Olds dealership or Year One Inc.

Paul Pate
70 Cutlass S
84 Camaro LG4

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Jul 1997 23:59:25 -0300
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: The H.P. of a 350...

In a message dated 97-07-08 00:52:15 EDT, you write:

<< At 10:16 PM 7/6/97, Chris Matthes wrote:
 >
 >>- - - - - - - - - - -
 >>Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com) Akron, OH  f-body list member since 5/95
 >>93 Camaro Z/28: Patriot Red, A4, 3.23, PEG2, Firestone Firehawk SVX tires,
 >>TFX cat-back, 160 'stat, homeade air intake, Accel 300+ ignition and coil,
 >>Mobil 1 fluids, Licence plate: 1FST93Z.....14.165@98.70 before listed mods
 >>Coming soon: authentic SS hood, spoiler and SLP exhaust
 >>80 Olds 442 W-30...show car...see at http://www.442.com/labay.html
 >>75 Hurst/Olds W-25-(2 of them)
 >>
 >this is more info than we really need about you!
 
 Sorry.
 
 and this is my shortened version ;-) Thats why there is cut and paste and
 the delete key.....don't like it don't look. I made a shortened version for
 you though
 
 J.L.
 1-fast chevy
 3-slow oldsmobiles
  >>

GOOD JOB JASON, LIVE AND LET LIVE

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jul 1997 00:50:23 -0300
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: 73 build-up phases 1, 2, and 4 commence the 23rd

Yes. I now have the set date as to when I will start ordering PARTS.
Phase 1 involves the cam/lifters, springs/retainers, rods, locks, and
timing set. Phase 4 will bleed into Phase 1 when Hooker headers are put
on. Then, with that beast uncapped, I'll drive through Toledo about 1/2
mile to the muffler shop. This is where Phase 4 will be finished. Mark's
will be installing 2 1/4" dual exhaust and 3 chamber Flowmasters.
Lastly, Phase 2 will be a go. The body work. Thus comes the eternal
question... one racing stripe or two?

These phases are out of order here, but not on my original priority
sheet.
- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
Ev_Corp Main Admin.
delta_v plug G/S/O Admin.
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoft© Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jul 1997 00:16:09 -0300
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: Lansing where are you?

In a message dated 97-07-08 03:36:27 EDT, you write:

<< > Adams, Tom          Kellogg Center     8/21-24    66 Delta Convertible
 > Allen, Joseph       Cottonwood CG      8/20-24    57 88 J/2 Conv
 > Beaulieu, Greg      Hampton Inn        8/18-23    none
 > Bicker, Steve       Quality Suites     8/19-24    67 442 
 > Blankenship, Mike   Red Roof Inn       8/20-24    none
 > Bradley, Terry&Barb Regent Inn         8/20-24    71 Cutlass, 70 W-30
 > Brown, David        Best Western-Midway8/19-24    77 Delta 88
 > Chermack, Jim       Mariott East       8/18-25    70 SX W-32
 > Cremean, Matt       Cremean Inn        8/21       73 Cutlass Supreme
 > Culp, Bill          Park Inn Int       8/21-24    silver '62 Jetfire
 > Easton, Jeff        Fairfield Okemos   8/20-22    70 442 black
 > Forsee, Ron         Hampton Inn        8/20-24    65 442
 > Glista, Nikki       Holiday West       8/19-24    68 Cutlass conv
 > Glista, Richard     Holiday West       8/19-23    68 - 442
 > Gulino, Dan         Sleep Inn          8/20-24    75 Delta 88 conv
 > Harkema, Doug       Holt, MI           all        70 Supreme conv.
 > Hartlieb, Paul      Marriott East      8-19-23    67 Ninety Eight
 > Hendley, Daren      Ramada             8/20-24    none
 > Hirtle, Don         Hampton            8/18-23    none
 > Horton, Everett     Sheraton           8/19-23    61 Starfire conv
 > Horton, Gordon      Sheraton           8/19-23    71 Supreme conv
 > Johnson, Ernie      Ramada             8/20-24    67-442
 > Kitchener, Doug     Holiday West       8/19-24    Gold'70 Supreme conv
 > Loban, John         Clubhouse Inn      8/20-24    63 Starfire conv
 > McFarlane, Cliff    Holiday West       8/19-23    63 Starfire
 > Nicholson, Brad     Best Western       8/19-24    87 442 (Just Me)
 > O'Connor, Peg       Holiday West       8/19-24    none
 > Penny, Steve        Hampton            8/18-23    none
 > Pritchett, Bill     Radisson           8/20-23    61 98
 > Ruper, Chris        Best Western-Midway8/19-24    none
 > Senko, Drew         Sheraton           8/20-23    71 Supreme conv.
 > Smetana, Chris      BW Governors       8/20-24    possibly a 72 S
 > Smith, Brian        Hampton            8/18-23    none
 > Soball, Dave        Motel 6 Central    8/20-24    Red/White '55 98
 > Stewart, Sandy      Hampton            8/18-23    none
 > Westlake, Steve     Holiday West       8/19-23    63 - 98
 > Williams, Dan       Hampton Inn        8/20-24    68 442 conv.
 > Williams, Danny     Red Roof Inn       8/20-24    none
 > Wilson, Jim         none               8/19-23    64 Stafire
 > Wyatt, Dave         BW Governors       8/20-24    Yellow '70 4-4-2
 > 
 > ________________________________________________________________________
 > 
 > Cliff McFarlane
 > 62 Starfire Conv.
 > 63 Starfire Coupe.
  >>
I thought my message got through but
Prince, Mark K.     Clubhouse Inn   8/19-24     Saddle Bronze 72 442 W-30
Cornea, Mark        Clubhouse Inn   8/19-24      Matador Red    70 442 W-30
Prince, Michael      Clubhouse Inn   8/20-23     Rally Red        70 Cutlass
S
Lamb, Aaron         Clubhouse Inn    8/20-23      Matador Red    72 Cutlass
Melen, Ulyess        Clubhouse Inn   8/20-23      Matador Red    71 Cutlass S
Thomas, Robert      Clubhouse Inn   8/22           Orange 69 442 W-32
Roberts, Rick         Clubhouse Inn    8/22          Hurst Olds      1972
Just a few names to add

W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
72 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Jul 1997 19:50:38 -0300
From: Albert Levi Ball <alball@mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: found parts for G-body Cutlass

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC8BC7.7758EAC0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

hey i know this is kinda on the late side but do you have that rear end gear/case?

Levi Ball
1988 Cutlass Supreme Classic
OCA Member
TGCC Member

- -----Original Message-----
From:	Barnacle Bill [SMTP:wreilly@acad.bryant.edu]
Sent:	Thursday, April 10, 1997 7:14 PM
To:	oldsmobile
Subject:	found parts for G-body Cutlass


I found an '88 Cutlass Supreme Classic in a salvage yard yesterday that
has some potentially usefull stuff.  I don't really need any of it so if
someone wants me get anything for them please let me know.

Dark blue sport steering wheel
dark blue remote right sport mirror
Rallye Pac with shift indicator for overdrive
also found another Rallye Pac in different Cutlass
T-Tops, both seemed in good shape
Limited slip diff with 2.56 gears (I might take this but not sure yet)
Sail panel script, CutlassSupremeClassic 
Owners manuals

This yard is just outside Providence, RI.

Contact me at wreilly@acad.bryant.edu

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme


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- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC8BC7.7758EAC0--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Jul 1997 15:25:11 -0300
From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Subject: Re: TH200R4 or whatever the overdirve is called

>	First of all, what is the transmision in a 1981-1984 Delta 88 307 and 1981
>-1987 Cultass 307 ( I assume it is the th200r4).  Would the overdrive
>transmision from the Cutlass in the years metioned fit in place of a 1981
>th250 3 speed on a 1981 Delta 88.
>

If the tranny is behind an olds 307 and it's an overdrive, then it is a
2004R.  You can make sure the tranny is a 2004R just by checking underneath
the car.  The best way to identify it is by it's pan shape.  It's oblong
with two sumps, a large sump towards the front, and a smaller sump directly
behind it.  The pan also has the word "metric" or something like that
stamped in it.  It's the only tranny with a pan that shape.  Another good
way to identify it is that it does not have a removeable tailshaft, the
whole case is just one casting.  BTW, 2004Rs built after 1984 tend to be
better transmissions.  They are slightly stronger, so try and get one of
thoes if you can.  

I think 81 Deltas were availible with a 2004R, so it should bolt in place
with no problem.  You may have to swap transmission mounts and you might
need the throttle valve cable bracket off of the cutlass. The slip yoke for
the 2004R *might* be different than the 250, so you might have to change
them.  You may also need a different legnth driveshaft if the 200-4R is a
different legnth than the 250.  If the trannys are the same legnth then
you're good to go.  Either way it'd be an easy swap once you find the parts.
It took me and a buddy about one day to perform the swap on my `72 Vista
Cruiser.

>I know absolutley nothing about tourqe convertors and shift kits.  I would
>like to know was a high-stall convertor is and what is the purpose of
>installing a performance convertor and is it worth the cost.

By definition the stall speed of a converter is the maximum RPM the torque
converter will allow the engine to spin with the rear wheels immoble(i.e.
brakes fully applied with the gas pedal to the floor).    So, the higher the
stall speed, the more the converter slips and allows the engine rpms to pick
up.  If you have a converter that stalls at 3000 rpm, then you can actually
leave the line with the engine spinning 3000 rpm, where it's able to
develope more power.  Most stock converters stall around 1200-1500 RPM.
"High stall" is just a general term for any torque converter with a stall
speed that's more than stock.  A stall speed between 2000-3000 rpm is good
for the street.  Any more than that and economy really starts to suffer.
The cheapest high-stall converter I've been able to find for a 2004R is
$125.  It's rated at roughly 2200 RPM and still keeps the lockup feature for
economy.  At that price the performance gains would probably be worth it,
you would notice the difference in acceleration.  Economy in town would
suffer a little bit but highway economy would be about the same.  

>I have got a 1981 Delta 88 with a 307, th 250 and a 2.73 rear end.  I
>don't even have to tell you how slow this thing is off the line.  I would
>like to have a 350 motor but don't want to do it because I would like to
>prove some of mine rice burner friends that this motor can do it.  I was
>thinking to change the transmition to a th200r4 (overdrive).  I know this
>tranny is not great but that is all I could afford from a junk yard. 
>Consequently, I would like to raise the Rear End Ration to maybe 3.43 or
>3.73.  Would this make the Delta faster off the line?.  

Yes.  Definitly. 

>The only reason why
>I want the overdrive is to be able to raise the rear end and still have
>decent mpg.  How would milege and engine ware differ from the current
>setup.  Any suggestions are helpful.		

Well the overdrive ratio in the 2004R is .67.  That means if you get a 3.43
rear end your final drive ratio with overdrive engaged would be 2.2981.  If
you get 3.73 gears it'd be 2.4991.  With either rearend you mileage will
stay about the same and you might even see improvement.  There will be about
the same wear on the engine and maybe a little less since it will be turning
less RPM at cruise.  

>Would getting headers for my stock 307 Delta 88 improve performance and by
>how much.  Also how much would it cost.  And/or would a edelbrock carb do
>enaugh good to be $450 canadian worth.

Don't get either, they're just not worth the cash.  Most people will agree
that headers are more annoyance than they're worth on a stock engine.
(they're noisy, rusty, require constant re-tightening, and don't last very
long)  And you probably won't notice any performance gain since plain 'ol
manifolds flow plenty for mild engines.  The edelbrock carb has snob appeal,
but a well-tuned quadrajet should work just as well and is more than enough
for an otherwise stock 307.  If emissions regulations are not enforced where
you live then you might try some of these mods:  Remove the cataltytic
converter and install a true dual exhaust,  that would net you the biggest
performance gain for the money.  If the car has a computer controlled carb
you could replace it with a quadrajet from a non-computer controlled car,
that might help a bit.  You can tinker with the timing and have the timing
advance recurved.  Or you can buy a kit (<$15) to recurve it yourself but it
takes a lot of time and a little understanding of how ignition timing works.
BTW, switching to a non-computer-controlled carb will hurt economy some.
The timing and exhaust mods will improve economy.  But, of course, your
mileage may vary. :)

Hope I was of some help.

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista Cruiser
`67 Cutlass Supreme
  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Jul 1997 23:53:23 -0300
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Cheap paint recommendations?

At 09:25 AM 7/8/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I recently painted my 1989 9C1 Caprice myself.  I bought the car from a local
>Police dept and it was still black & white.  I drove it for nearly a year
>like that (Got lots of looks like that ;-)).  Anyway, I went to a local paint
>supply house and explained my situation to the guys there "no experience
>painting, don't want to spend a ton of $$$, etc....".  The steered me to a
>Dupont paint called Nason.  It comes in approx. 20 colors.  I used frost
>white on my car.  I spent all of $150 for a gallon of paint, primer, sealer
>and thinner.  I could have used another 1/2 gallon of paint to put more coats
>on, but hey I only paid $1000 for the car to start with.  

Cecil,

That sounds exactly like what I'm looking for. I'll check around with what
they stock, and what it will cost me.

>I really had good luck with the paint and I learned alot too.  I can walk you
>around the car and tell you exactly what I did wrong where on the car.  I
>have had people tell me the car looks really good ( yea well it looks a damn
>sight better than it did!).  A little wet sanding is in order to really clean
>things up.

That's pretty much my intention, though the car's pretty rough right now, so
*anything* will be an improvement!

>Anyway you ought to check out the Nason paint.  You should be able to get all
>that you need for less than $200 I would think.  Oh yea I bought my paint gun
>at Wal-Mart for $30-$50, can't remember the exact price.  It was cheap
>though.  If you like send me a not privately and I will give you more details
>on what I did right and WRONG.

I'd love to hear your advice on this matter. I offer my experience so others
will learn from my mistakes, so I always appreciate when I get a chance to
learn from other's mistakes... ;)

Did the white help cover any body flaws? Like I mentioned, this car will
have some major cheapie bodywork on it until I can do it right (gotta get me
a MIG!), so I can use all the help I can get. Do you recall what other kinds
of colors were available? Was there a silver, or any orange in that lineup
that you recall?
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Jul 1997 23:50:59 -0300
From: PaulP34167@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1927 REO --check this out please.

In a message dated 97-07-08 21:03:42 EDT, you write:

> hello everyone!  Tonight, I will hopefully be buying a 1927 REO 
>  Woverine touring car.  Can anyone tell me any information about this 
>  kind of car?  how many were made?  how many are still around?  where can 
>  i find parts?  (the car needs a total restoration)  does anyone have any 
>  suggestions, tips, comments, etc. to say about this?  (i'm sure many of 
>  you do!!)  ;)
>  
>  Thanks in advance!

>From the Encyclopedia of American Cars:

"Reo resulted from a 1904 arguement at Olds Motor Works, the first car
company founded by the tenacious Ransom Eli Olds.  When collegues began
pressuring him to build four and six-cylinder models that were more
substantial than his little Curved-Dash Oldsmobile, Ransom went down the
street to set up a rival concern.  By year's end, this new R. E. Olds company
was called Reo Motor Car Company,  after his initials.  Ransom got his
"revenge": through 1917, Reo outproduced Olds Motor Works."

I do not have production numbers before 1930, but in 1928 Reo produced their
best record of 29,000 cars TOTAL!  You will have a very rare car.  The '30
models had two engine options: a 60 or 80 hp I-6.

Paul Pate
70 Cutlass S
84 Camaro LG4

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jul 1997 00:44:56 -0300
From: DUKEOFBLUZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: interior vinyl for bucket seats

Call SMS Auto Fabrics @ 503-234-1175, they are located in Portland, OR and
have the correct interior material for a 73-77 Cutlass's

hope this helps,
Jeffrey Fieldsend
Board of Director for O.C.C = Oldsmobile Cutlass Coupes 73-77
for membership info and to see pics from our last car show check out our web
site at:    http://members.aol.com/CUTLASCOUP/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Jul 1997 23:03:52 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Lansing where are you?

Sorry, just had to change my hotel. Stupid humor.

> ________________________________________________________________________
> Adams, Tom          Kellogg Center     8/21-24    66 Delta Convertible
> Allen, Joseph       Cottonwood CG      8/20-24    57 88 J/2 Conv
> Beaulieu, Greg      Hampton Inn        8/18-23    none
> Bicker, Steve       Quality Suites     8/19-24    67 442
> Blankenship, Mike   Red Roof Inn       8/20-24    none
> Bradley, Terry&Barb Regent Inn         8/20-24    71 Cutlass, 70 W-30
> Brown, David        Best Western-Midway8/19-24    77 Delta 88
> Chermack, Jim       Mariott East       8/18-25    70 SX W-32
> Cornea, Mark        Clubhouse Inn      8/19-24    70 W30 Red
> Cremean, Matt       Blissfield, MI     8/21       73 Cutlass Supreme
> Culp, Bill          Park Inn Int       8/21-24    silver '62 Jetfire
> Easton, Jeff        Fairfield Okemos   8/20-22    70 442 black
> Forsee, Ron         Hampton Inn        8/20-24    65 442
> Glista, Nikki       Holiday West       8/19-24    68 Cutlass conv
> Glista, Richard     Holiday West       8/19-23    68 - 442
> Gulino, Dan         Sleep Inn          8/20-24    75 Delta 88 conv
> Harkema, Doug       Holt, MI           all        70 Supreme conv.
> Hartlieb, Paul      Marriott East      8-19-23    67 Ninety Eight
> Hendley, Daren      Ramada             8/20-24    none
> Hirtle, Don         Hampton            8/18-23    none
> Horton, Everett     Sheraton           8/19-23    61 Starfire conv
> Horton, Gordon      Sheraton           8/19-23    71 Supreme conv
> Johnson, Ernie      Ramada             8/20-24    67-442
> Kitchener, Doug     Holiday West       8/19-24    Gold'70 Supreme conv
> Loban, John         Clubhouse Inn      8/20-24    63 Starfire conv
> McFarlane, Cliff    Holiday West       8/19-23    63 Starfire
> Nicholson, Brad     Best Western       8/19-24    87 442 (Just Me)
> O'Connor, Peg       Holiday West       8/19-24    none
> Penny, Steve        Hampton            8/18-23    none
> Prince, Mark        Clubhouse Inn      8/19-24    72 W30 Saddle
> Pritchett, Bill     Radisson           8/20-23    61 98
> Ruper, Chris        Best Western-Midway8/19-24    none
> Senko, Drew         Sheraton           8/20-23    71 Supreme conv.
> Smetana, Chris      BW Governors       8/20-24    possibly a 72 S
> Smith, Brian        Hampton            8/18-23    none
> Soball, Dave        Motel 6 Central    8/20-24    Red/White '55 98
> Stewart, Sandy      Hampton            8/18-23    none
> Westlake, Steve     Holiday West       8/19-23    63 - 98
> Williams, Dan       Hampton Inn        8/20-24    68 442 conv.
> Williams, Danny     Red Roof Inn       8/20-24    none
> Wilson, Jim         none               8/19-23    64 Stafire
> Wyatt, Dave         BW Governors       8/20-24    Yellow '70 4-4-2
> ________________________________________________________________________

- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
Ev_Corp Main Admin.
delta_v plug G/S/O Admin.
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoft© Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Jul 1997 22:04:37 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: TH200R4 or whatever the overdirve is called

Igor wrote:
> 
>         First of all, what is the transmision in a 1981-1984 Delta 88 307 and 1981
> -1987 Cultass 307 ( I assume it is the th200r4).  Would the overdrive
> transmision from the Cutlass in the years metioned fit in place of a 1981
> th250 3 speed on a 1981 Delta 88.

I don't think the 200-4R existed until '83.  It's probably the 3-speed
version, the TH-200, or maybe a TH-250.  It would likely be the lockup
torque converter version too, the TH-200C (or 250C).  Yes, a 200-4R
would fit and hold up just fine behind the 307.  You might need a
different length driveshaft (I think it's the same length as a TH-350),
and you'll definitely need some way to lock the torque converter (could
be as simple as a toggle switch if you want).

Tom Lentz
tlentz@ior.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jul 1997 01:37:38 -0400
From: "Jon" <latvis@globalserve.net>
Subject: Re: Regarding a stereo system

Shielded cable (coaxial) that is used with RCA jacks is usually better than
speaker wiring due to the fact that the ground wire surrounds the hot wire
in the center shielding it from electromagnetic interference caused by your
car's ignition system; however, if you get cheap wiring, then you may have
poor quality shielding and also weak connections where the wire meets the
jack eventually resulting in a broken connection.  When you replaced your
alternator, did you also replace the spark plug wires?  If so, you may have
gotten ones that are not shielded as well as the old ones, causing
interference.  If so, put your old spark plug wires on and see if this
makes a difference.

________________________________________________________
Jon Gulbis
'85 Cutlass Supreme
'72 Norton chopper

Drop me a line at: latvis@globalserve.net
See my resume at: 
http://www.globalserve.net/~latvis/computing/resume.html

(Olds page soon to be constructed)

- ----------
> From: Igor <todorovb@cadvision.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Regarding a stereo system
> Date: otrdiena, 1997. gada 8. jūlijs 5:17
> 
> 	I've got a clarion deck 4x30W and a 4-chanell 300W amp in my car.  Ever
> since I changed the alternator I have been getting vary poor base
response.
>  At the same time I conected a equilizer and converted my conection from
a
> high-power (spk. wire from deck directly to amp) to low-power RCA type
> input.  I checked all the conections and concluded that it is eirther the
> nature of the RCA input to create a poping noise in base (i used cheap
> wal-mart wires) or that the used alternator has a problem.  If anyone
would
> know what this could be it would help and also what kind of conection
shoul
> RCA wires provide (i was always under the impression that it should be
> better)  I also checked my grounding and all the things are grounded to
the
> same point, I ground looks good.  ???????
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jul 1997 01:41:18 -0400
From: "Jon" <latvis@globalserve.net>
Subject: Re: Regarding a stereo system

- ----------
> From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Regarding a stereo system
> Date: otrdiena, 1997. gada 8. jūlijs 10:14
> 
> Igor wrote:
> > 
> > Ever since I changed the alternator I have been getting vary poor base 
> > response.
> > I checked all the conections and concluded that it is eirther the
> > nature of the RCA input to create a poping noise...
> 
> By "poor bass response" do you mean weak bass or do you have a popping 
> noise?  ...or both?  In either case, if you have the same problem with 
> the motor not running, it doesn't seem like something you could blame on 
> the altenator.
> 
> If you have WEAK bass, you might have a reversed phasing.  Double check 
> the wiring that all channels are wired with the same "polarity".  Also 
> consider jumping around the equalizer -- just in case it a dud -- since 
> the problem also started when it was installed.
> 
> > ...what kind of conection shoul RCA wires provide (i was always under 
> > the impression that it should be better)  
> 
> Bettter than what?  RCA connectors are low power connectors, not really 
> suitable for output connections to speakers -- except maybe with small 
> amps -- but they should work. 

I think he has the RCA cables going from the deck to the amp, not the
speakers.
 ________________________________________________________
Jon Gulbis
'85 Cutlass Supreme
'72 Norton chopper

Drop me a line at: latvis@globalserve.net
See my resume at: 
http://www.globalserve.net/~latvis/computing/resume.html

(Olds page soon to be constructed)
>  
>     66 Toro 
> The /\   /\ and Mike
> 
> 
> --
> Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
>      Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
>      (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jul 1997 01:46:39 -0400
From: "Jon" <latvis@globalserve.net>
Subject: Re: Still Snakebit...  ;-)

The thing is, that car owners often like to thing that their cars are worth
more than they really are, and if someone tells them the truth then they
take it as a personal insult.  Some people don't want to accept facts if
they think otherwise.
________________________________________________________
Jon Gulbis
'85 Cutlass Supreme
'72 Norton chopper

Drop me a line at: latvis@globalserve.net
See my resume at: 
http://www.globalserve.net/~latvis/computing/resume.html

(Olds page soon to be constructed)

- ----------
> From: david wyatt <Wyatt_David_L@LILLY.COM>
> To: Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re:  Still Snakebit...  ;-)
> Date: otrdiena, 1997. gada 8. jūlijs 8:55
> 
> Greg,
> Hey don't feel bad, there are plenty of people out there getting the
> same B.S. from car owners.  I had a guy down the street from me who had
> a 68 F*rd wagon with a 390 in it.  I wanted to buy the whole car for the
> drive line.  This thing is heavily rusted and sitting on blocks and he
> wants $1000 for it.  He believes it is rare.  Another fellow down the
> street has a 68 N*va with a 6 cylinder automatic in it.  Heavy rust in
> the Quarters and doors.  It looked like a good candidate to tub out and
> turn into a drag car.  He wants $1000 for it.  He has "seen what they
> are worth in the Old Cars Price Guide."  His judgement on the car's
> condition leaves room for doubt.  And then the all time idiot who live
> south of town has a 57 Ch*vy 150 2 door sedan.  It is another good
> candidate to tub and drag due to rusted out trunk and rear frame rails.
> What price you ask?  Not for sale for any amount.  He never gets rid of
> any of his old cars, he just takes them to the woods behind his house
> where they rust in piece.  He will not even sell any parts.  Who knows
> what interesting vehicles are setting out there?  These types have to
> all die off someday and then their stuff will be sold because they can't
> take it with them. 
> 
> Lets see, a N*va for $1000 and a F*rd wagon for $1000 and both are rusty
> as h*ll.  That means my 4-4-2 is worth $20,000 if you use the factor of
> true value x 10 = Fantasy Value.  Or I can just take it out in the woods
> and let it set forever.
> 
> Dave Wyatt
> 70  4-4-2
> In Dana, IN, where cars are worth more.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jul 1997 02:04:09 -0400
From: "Jon" <latvis@globalserve.net>
Subject: Fw: Home-based Business Opportunity

- ----------
> From: Jon <latvis@globalserve.net>
> To: Erik Nowacki <enowacki@titan.com>
> Subject: Re: Home-based Business Opportunity
> Date: trešdiena, 1997. gada 9. jūlijs 2:02
> 
> Oops! I'm really sorry about that, I must have been looking at the
> properties of the wrong message.  My sincere apologies.  Unfortuantely, I
> arased the original message, but if anyone still has it, look in the
> properties/details dialog box and it will tell you a lot of information
> regarding sender/receiver, IP address, etc.
> ________________________________________________________
> Jon Gulbis
> '85 Cutlass Supreme
> '72 Norton chopper
> 
> Drop me a line at: latvis@globalserve.net
> See my resume at: 
> http://www.globalserve.net/~latvis/computing/resume.html
> 
> (Olds page soon to be constructed)
> 
> ----------
> From: Erik Nowacki <enowacki@titan.com>
> To: latvis@globalserve.net
> Subject: Re: Home-based Business Opportunity
> Date: otrdiena, 1997. gada 8. jūlijs 13:59
> 
> If you go back and READ the original spam you will see that I had nothing
> to
> do with it.  I asked the question about how to send an e-mail bomb to the
> spammer and included a SNIP of the original message.  I have already
> received one e-mail bomb as a result of you NOT PAYING ATTENTION TO WHO
> POSTED WHAT.  Any future bombs will be forwarded to your account.
> 
> Erik Nowacki
> 
> >>In case anyone was wondering, his email address is: enowacki@titan.com
> >>________________________________________________________
> >>Jon Gulbis
> >>'85 Cutlass Supreme
> >>'72 Norton chopper
> >>
> >>Drop me a line at: latvis@globalserve.net
> >>See my resume at: 
> >>http://www.globalserve.net/~latvis/computing/resume.html
> >>
> >>(Olds page soon to be constructed)
> >>
> >>----------
> >>> From: Erik Nowacki <enowacki@titan.com>
> >>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> >>> Subject: Re: Home-based Business Opportunity
> >>> Date: pirmdiena, 1997. gada 7. jūlijs 19:03
> >>> 
> >>> >"Get Rich Quick - Chain Letters - MLM - Millionaires"
> >>> >
> >>> >The hype on the Internet makes a person reach for the 
> >>> >hip boots to wade through the mire.
> >>> >
> >>> Could someone please post the details of mailbombing this, and other,
> >>> miserable spammer??
> >>> 
> >>> Not that I or anyone on this list would actually use such knowledge
to
> >>hurt
> >>> someones livelihood, but it would be good to have as reference
> >>information
> >>> only  :-)
> >>> 
> >>> TIA
> >>> 
> >>> Erik Nowacki
> >>> 1972 Vista Cruiser
> >>> 
> >>
> >>
> >
> 
> ----------
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jul 1997 02:09:24 -0400
From: "Jon" <latvis@globalserve.net>
Subject: Re: Spamming Spammers

I have a handy little program (100 kb) that lets you send anonymous Emails.
 If anyone is interested in getting it, let me know.  It could be used to
spam spammers without any reprocussions.  You can even get spammers
attacking each other by giving another spammers address as the return
address.

________________________________________________________
Jon Gulbis
'85 Cutlass Supreme
'72 Norton chopper

Drop me a line at: latvis@globalserve.net
See my resume at: 
http://www.globalserve.net/~latvis/computing/resume.html

(Olds page soon to be constructed)

- ----------
> From: Jar Lyons <jarl@atrieva.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Spamming Spammers
> Date: otrdiena, 1997. gada 8. jūlijs 11:55
> 
> Just a thought, but if anyone has access to a Unix machine ...
> create a file called 'screw_him'
> --------------------------
> #!/usr/bin/perl
>  
> foreach (1 .. 1000) {
>   `cat /usr/bin/perl | mail enowacki@titan.com`;
>    sleep(20);
> }
> --------------------------
> 
> BTW, the correct way to launch this would be
> chmod +x screw_him
> screw_him &
> 
> -- 
> Have you backed up your data today?
> Atrieva Internet Backup Service http://www.atrieva.com
> 
> Jar Lyons
> jarl@atrieva.com 
> Atrieva Corporation  (www.atrieva.com)
> 600 University Street, Suite 911 
> Seattle, WA  98101
> Voice: (206) 749-2914,  
> Fax:   (206) 382-6615
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
>                 1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass Convertible
>                        455 Rocket Powered
>                 'How fast do you want to go today?'
> ------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jul 1997 07:01:38 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Digest 742 Ideas

This one bounced because of the phrase "*dd me"... didn't know majordummy 
didn't like that one.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
To:	wittchri@pilot.msu.edu (me from myself), oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Date:	Wed, 9 Jul 1997 01:04:10 -0400 (EDT)
From:	"Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>

> Wilson, Jim         none               8/19-23    64 Stafire
> Wyatt, Dave         BW Governors       8/20-24    Yellow '70 4-4-2

Well, you could *dd me...

Witt, Chris, et. al   RS Home Capsule    allatime   Not sure yet...
                      1303 W. Miller Rd.
                      Lansing, MI 48911

Speaking of which, seems I got all carried away and registered 5, yep, five
cars, and have not ONE yet actually drivable. :-(

So.... if anyone comes & needs a "slot" you can just, er, [waxes into John
Lovitz' Liar imitation...] sign over your title to me and I'll get you in.
I'll sell it right back to ya after the meet. Yeah, really I will! :-) That's
the Ticket!
  Really, I do have a slot or 2 open at this time but if the convertible rolls,
it gets precedence.

BTW, coupla things you MIGHT want to look into if you are cruising around
here... West end of Jolly Rd., right before it goes down to the river... on the
Left is the crustbucket '69 98 convertible parts car. Make him an offer? He
thought my offer of $250 was too low.
  Also- REOlds' gravesite/ family mausoleum... pay one's respects, etc. On Mt
Hope Rd, just East of Pennsylvania, Just W/ Aurelius, just S/ 496 hiway. Hey-
have the list folks meet there!?
  And... on US27, just N/ Lansing, conveniently on the way to the RS "farm",
on the west side of the road at an old once-fuel station.. is a clean White 67
98 LS... I always enjoy seeing it on the way back home, esp. after dark as it
usually is, in the light there it looks so stately, so ghostlike. Older lady
owns it, not even interested in selling.

> Hey Todd!
>                 I would suggest that you find/solicit someone who has an HEI
> with your particular manifold because I know for a fact that it won't fit
> with the Edelbrock O4B.
>                                                    Ron Forsee 65 442_Meister

So, if you're using MSD for spark, why not use a regular pts-style dist'r,
fitted with the HEI p/u coil or similar aftermarket parts? Fits, looks stock if
MSD box is hidden.... I messed around with fitting HEI p/u coil to older
dist'r, looked like it'd work, with some machine work. I'm sure kits are
available however.
- --
Chris  B. Witt
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Jul 1997 17:04:00 -0400
From: jlincoln@nvl.army.mil (Jim Lincoln)
Subject: 100th Anniversary of Olds at Lansing

     
     I have a number of copies of the Lansing "Visitors Guide" for the 
     100th Celebration. There is only one article with pictures about Olds, 
     and the cover has car pictures also. 
     Copies may be available at Lansing, but they came out as part of the 
     local newspaper back in February! Why, I don't know.
     
     I will mail you a copy if you send me $5 to cover mailing. Mail me 
     your address to: Jim Lincoln 6901 Oak Ct Annandale, Va 22003

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jul 1997 06:45:41 -0400
From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Subject: Re: Hurst/Olds decals

On Jul 8, 10:41am, Jim Rash wrote:
> Subject: Hurst/Olds decals
> Looking for decals for a '84 Hurst/Olds and center console cover plate for
> lighting rod shifter.
>
> Thank You
>
> Jim
>

	Jim,

		Check out "Stencils & Stripes" in IL, there phone number is
(847) 692-6893 and you need to talk to Ralph, he should be able to help you
out.

		As far as the interior and under hood items, I can help you
with that.

       ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
          Mark Cornea (Dr Decal) `70 W30 stick ~ Red (of course)

           (drdecal@juno.com) or (mcornea@pt8244.pto.ford.com)

            OCA# 4903
       	    OPC# 14
       ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jul 1997 08:15:17 -0400
From: Curt Salada <csalada@astea.com>
Subject: Re: '64 - '67 4-4-2 option codes

Hello.  I wrote:

<snip>
Revisiting an earlier thread, I looked at the optional equipment sheets,
etc., reproduced in Sullivan's 4-4-2 restoration guide to find the
following option codes for 4-4-2 before it became an actual model:

1964:	B-09
1965:	"The 1965 model carried the little-known W-29 nomenclature."
(Sullivan)
1966:	w/4bbl carb L-78
	w/3x2bbl L-69
1967:	L-78

I haven't found any evidence for Sullivan's claim that W-29 was the
option code in 1965.  The Olds literature reproduced in his book simply
lists the option as "4-4-2", along with all the other options like "U35"
(clock), "P01" (14" wheel discs), etc.  Aside from the possible
exception of W-29 in 1965, "W" options didn't appear at all until 1968.
<snip>

Oops.  That *does* overlook the introduction of the W-30, everyone's
favorite option code, in 1966 and its continued offering in 1967...

Kurt Heinrich replied:

<snip>
Well by the copies of the options and price sheets I have, here's the W
breakdown:
The W-30 first appeared in '66.  
The W-31 first appeared in '68.  
The W-32 first appeared in '69.
However, I have seen the W-29 option associated with '65 through '67
<snip>

<snip>  
In '65 the order code was 4-4-2.  
<snip>

And I reply:

I suspect that W-29 really came about in 1972, and we revisionist
historians projected its use back to the mid-sixties.  Is there anyone
with a 1965 build sheet out there to confirm that the actual option code
for a 4-4-2 in 1965 was in fact "4-4-2"?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Jul 1997 08:10:15 -0400
From: "Terry Teague" <dawgs@conninc.com>
Subject: Re:1968 Delta Custom

Hello all I am new to the list.........I am looking for the front turn
signal lens for a 68 Delta Custom that I am restoring. My parents bought
the car new in Nov. 67 and I now own the car. It has buckets and a 455
400th , two door. the car is in really good shape and only has 134000
miles on it. Can anyone help? Thanks Terry

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Jul 1997 07:58:38 -0400
From: "Terry Teague" <dawgs@conninc.com>
Subject: Re: Cheap paint recommendations?

hello I painted my chevy truck with the Naston paint and it looked
really good for about a year. The paint has faded and it can be waxed
out but it will only hold a shine for about 3 weeks!. be careful with
this paint, you might be disappointed like I was. all the paint in the
interior and underhood looks great, I don't think it holds up well in
the weather.  Terry Teague

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Jul 1997 21:31:58 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Bad Weekend

Which reminds me of the time I parked my '67 Delta 88 about 2 football
fields away from any other cars - and someone backed up & dinged the
formerly flawless back bumper.

I think its because bumpers are my favorite parts on a car - nice chrome
ones of course.

I haven't got hit by any shopping carts yet - i normally park it either
between posts or flower beds or 2 miles out.

I need the exercise :)


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '72 Vista Cruiser
, '69 Toronado (arriving in August)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Jul 1997 21:40:32 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Tourqe convertors and shift kits

I got this inquiry off my web page.  Can someone steer him to the right
place possibly?   

I would greatly appreciate any information on the following.
I am restoring a 1901 oldsmobile replica. I am missing one of the 
spoked wheels. Do you know of any sources ?
Thank you 

Tuck Kamin

His e-mail address is:  tuckok@flash.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Jul 1997 09:56:21 -0500
From: Matthew Butler <matthewbutler@oscsystems.com>
Subject: Help!!!  I need a set of Heads or a good C in DC

Howdy All!!!

It has been a long time since I wrote into the list, but I have been on the
road for almost three months.  Now that I am back I am ready for a
summer of fun and sun with my Jet-boat.  I bought a new Tunnel ram,
MSD distributor, Carbs etc. etc. and was ready to hit the water, when to
my dismay, I found that one of my heads was completely trashed. 
Apparently, the cam that I have has enough overlap that it sucks water,
from the wet exhaust, back into the head.  This in tern dropped all of my
Hardened exhaust seat, probably cracked one of my heads and bashed
up (good technical term) my pistons.  What I am looking for is a good set
of heads that are quickly available in the DC area or one good C head
with small valves.  I can be reach via e-mail or at 301-428-6894

Thanks o plenty,

Matt Butler

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #741
********************************
