
oldsmobile-digest       Saturday, July 12 1997       Volume 01 : Number 746



Re: water pump stud bolts
Re: water pump stud bolts
Re: Chrome tips
Re: Old Tools/Muscle Car Review
Re: 72 sport wheel Button
infomercial_additives
missing_traffic
More Lansing things 2 do
Re: Headers
Re: Headers- notes and tips on installing
Re: More Lansing things 2 do
hurst olds emblems 
digest 744 reply
Re: Headers- notes and tips on installing
cam profiles
Re: cam profiles
Re: Valvetrain probs
Re: cam profiles
UNSUBSCRIBE

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 20:24:22 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: water pump stud bolts

On Fri, 11 Jul 1997, Jim Helle wrote:
> The guy that owned my cutlass prior changed the clutch fan and put this
> put this strieght drive fan on. I sound like a jet plane just about to
> take off. He did leave the clutch fan in the trunk. The only problem is
> noone knows (in the parts houses I have checked, thier book don't go
> back that far) the size and length of the stud that goes into the water
> pump and back into the fan base. Someone out there does know the correct
> answer, rite?

I got the studs and nuts for this from my friendly Olds dealer. I forget 
the spec but they have two types of threads on them, one fine, one not so 
fine.

I'm not sure you can just bolt it up though. I picked up a clutch fan for 
mine (why I got the studs) but when we went to install the thing it 
fouled on something (forget exactly what). We would have needed a 
different water pump to make it fit. Maybe you won't have that problem if 
you already have the right pump on there, but be advised...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 17:52:09 -0400
From: "MROTHE" <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: water pump stud bolts

> The guy that owned my cutlass prior changed the clutch fan and put this
> put this strieght drive fan on. I sound like a jet plane just about to
> take off. He did leave the clutch fan in the trunk. The only problem is
> noone knows (in the parts houses I have checked, thier book don't go
> back that far) the size and length of the stud that goes into the water
> pump and back into the fan base. Someone out there does know the correct
> answer, rite?

You have a couple of choices.  Either go to the Olds dealer and buy them
for a 307 cid, or go to a parts store in the "H*LP section and get them.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 17:49:22 -0400
From: "MROTHE" <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Chrome tips

> I just pulled the chrome exhaust tips off of the donor 68 4-4-2 car and
> was wondering if it is worth rechroming them or just getting new ones.


Trust me on this.  I have a set of NOS tailpipes from GM that have the
original chrome tips on them already.  I ordered a set of tips too, and
even the dealer was surprised the tips were already welded on.  These
weren't used either! 

 After seeing the aftermarket ones, I bought some from Brother's.  SUPER
NICE!!!!!  I suggest a pair of these, since these are made from inconel. 
They will withstand a heck of a lot as far as corrosion.  And the chrome
plating was so much nicer than stock, and they look identical.

If you want originals, then that's ok, just that there are things made
nowadays aftermarket that are better than the factory because at the time
they built your car, they went with what was cheapest.

Originals are worth something, but unless they are mint, probably not much.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 20:32:03 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Old Tools/Muscle Car Review

Nick Gomez wrote:
> 
> Does anyone know of a source of old tools, such as the ones listed in my
> 1965 Olds Chassis Service manual. The coil spring compressor used looks
> cheap, but it would fit, and I need one. It's tool BT-6505. Does someone
> here have one that I could rent? =)

This ad appeared in the May issue of JWO:

Tools, tools, tools!!!  Just like the kind in your service manual. 
Double-stamp SASE with year and model for listing.  Bill Sawrey, 1451
Monger Rd., Rockwood, TN  37854.

I had dealings with this fellow when he was located in CA.  I recommend
him.

Paul

- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 20:56:15 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: 72 sport wheel Button

Steve.Selinger@astramerck.com wrote:
> 
> Hello All, I have a ' 72 Cutlass Supreme with a sport steering wheel.  My Horn
> button bearing the Oldsmobile Rocket is cracked.  Possibly the previous owner
> may have been horn happy.  Anyhow, I would like to know if anyone has a
> replacement button or knows where I might be able to obtain one.  Thanks.

I was able to get one of these over parts counter, but that must have
been back in '90.  The parts book didn't show it available for a
Cutlass, but it did show it available for a '75-'80 Starfire (it's the
same part).  I think it cost me about $17.  Only came in black.  Can't
find my parts slips, or I'd give you the number.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 18:18:25 pdt
From: "Dal Allan" <250-1752@mcimail.com>
Subject: infomercial_additives

A while back there was a discussion on the additives that extend the life of 
your car and are promoted in late night infomercials.

The Aug/Sept issue of Musclecar Review quotes newspaper columnist Bob 
Sikorsky as saying that chlorine is an extremely corrosive agent in a motor. 
Oil companies used to have a fraction of 1% of chlorine in motor oil because 
it is a very effective extreme pressure additive, but they discontinued 
doing so because the chlorine did more harm than good. 

Look at the proportion of chlorine in these additives: 

     DuraLube   6.8 %
     Prolong   just under 30% 

You have to dilute the percentages to get a valid ratio when it is mixed 
with 5 quarts of oil, but if anything greater than zero is bad, looks like 
it might be a bad idea to pour either of these into your Olds. 

Dal

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 18:18:29 pdt
From: "Dal Allan" <250-1752@mcimail.com>
Subject: missing_traffic

Those of you who are on the Oldsmobile reflector would not have noticed the 
affliction which hit Digest subscribers over the long weekend. 

There were no digests after 0930 on July 2 until 0900 on July 6. 

If there is annybody out there who keeps copies of all the traffic, those of 
us on the Digest would appreciate it if everything for July 2 to July 6 
could be gathered and posted to an ftp site. They could be ZIPped and 
UUENCODEd to reduce the size but that might not work for everyone. 

Any takers?

Dal

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 22:50:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: More Lansing things 2 do

A couple things occurred to me that you all might wish to do whilst here...

There are a couple views of the Capitol building worthy of enjoying- the most
blatantly obvious that probably all will see is the shot westward down Michigan
Avenue, which ends right at the Capitol building grounds. Cool. Not so obvious,
and a bit treed over right now, but great for photos at night and an approach
view in the daytime, is to take Grand River Ave from near the airport, a major
E-W route, and turn S onto Grand River, this is east of Logan [=MLKing] and
west of Cedar = Larch = US27. Oh, yeah, watch it, there are literally about 3-4
"Grand" or "Grand River" streets here... for instance... After turning onto sbd
Grand River off Grand River... you will see the Cap. Bldg. above the trees.
Soon you will pass a light then come to a stop sign, which you may note is
another corner of Grand River & Grand River or similar. Sheesh. Proceed S thru
the stop sign to soon come to a primo photo spot, esp. for nighttime.

  Somewhere just south of the street the Cap. Bldg's on, the street on the East
side of the CB, is a parking ramp. Yawn. Except that entry is free, and you can
drive to the top, all 3-4 floors of it, and cop a view or two, video some other
classic Olds' going by?
  Another PRamp just a bit E & maybe S of that is what I call the "Electricty"
ramp, 'cause that's what it says in huge letters over the entrance. Last time I
tried to get in there, you had to have a special permit, even just to drive
in/out. :-( It's right on the river, and 2-3 stories taller than the other one.
Better views I thought. Maybe if y'all call the Lansing Chamber O' commerce &
as that for the show the rules be relaxed a bit...?

 There are a couple of Olds dealers handy, of course. Just East of 127 hwy on
the N side of Michigan Ave [THE central, main E-W running, dividing street], is
_______ Olds, dang, can't recall the name. Not a bad sign. You'll find it near
the pretty obvious Sears water tower. Good photo-op.
  Better sign in my opinion is that of University Olds, right in my backyard,
on the W side of Cedar St. just just just N of the hwy 96/69 overpass...
another fun street snafu... The hwy to Detroit is 96, to points West & NE? is
69, and those 2 make a loop all around the city area, cut in half E/W by 496.
All them 6's & 9's always confuse me. Anyhow, they have a killer "Oldsmobile"
sign in red neon, great photo-op there esp. at night, turn on your park lights
& experiment with a timed exposure...
  Then there's the assembly plant and/or headquarters, just E of Logan/King
blvd, just S of 496. Right off Olds Ave, I think. Oh, yeah, there's also Reo
Rd., you may wish to grab a photo by that if you have a Reo car or whatever.

Come to think of it, a nice Buzz alla way 'round Lansing would be a great
cruise... assuming CCW trip 'cause I'm left handed... just take 127 on the east
side N to the 69 toward Grand Rapids hiway at the NE corner of the loop, do NOT
follow it to GR when it splits, rather, hang left and you will see "69 East
becomes 69 South".... merges with traffic on the left from US 27... again hang
left and do not take 69 S split toward [some Indiana? city], but now look for
Detroit signs... pass the 496 exit, where the W end of 496 is, then the hwy
will swing East and be called 96. Soon after you pass exits 101 [Logan/King]
and then 101 [Cedar] unless of course you're stopping to see me, you'll have
the opportunity to once again join 127N toward MSU, the Stadium, etc. and then
we're back where the circle began.

Save this info, in any locals who can correct any of my memory shortfalls feel
free to add to/ correct this. I might correct, find exact streets meself later.

- --
Chris  B. Witt
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 19:56:00 -0700
From: "Suzanne Rousseau" <ewok@clarkston.com>
Subject: Re: Headers

> Really, Hooker doesn't list an application for the '64-'77 A-body with a
> 330-350 motor? If not, you might try the Cyclone/Blackjack category of
> headers (cheap street headers, as opposed to pricey race headers). I
don't
> have numbers of these places at my fingertips; isn't anybody on the list
> running a small-block with headers in their '64-'77 Cutlass?

I have a set of headers that are supposed to fit a '70 Cutlass w/ small
block.  I bought them from a guy, but they have never been used.  I don't
know the manufacturer or what years they will fit.  They are the kind with
that rough white finish, 'Aluminized' isn't it?  If you are interested get
back to me privately and I will cut you a very good deal on them.  

Paul Rousseau
*1967 442

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 20:20:10 -0700
From: "Suzanne Rousseau" <ewok@clarkston.com>
Subject: Re: Headers- notes and tips on installing

> A few notes on the blackjacks-
> 
> 1) I blew out the first four sets of gaskets at the head- after looking
carefully, I found out that one of 
> the tubes was touching the bottom of the block, and holding the flange
from seating flat against the 
> engine.  I hammered it flat and blew another set of gaskets- after
looking carefully again, I found out 
> that the exaust balance tube (which was welded up with the headers not
seated right) was holding the flange 
> out of alignment.  A new balance tube fixed it.
> 

Also watch out for header bolts rattling loose.  They WILL come loose if
you use the bolts that are supplied with the headers.  And then when they
loosen up, the gaskets will blow out.  Get a good set of locking bolts or
make some sheetmetal plates that span across 2 bolts and have tabs that can
be bent up adjacent to one side of the header bolt to hold it in place.  I
think this was used on the original manifolds?  My '67 assembly manual has
a diagram of it.  Also, this system was used on some bolts on the front
drum spindles, I'm not sure which ones off the top of my head though.

> 2) To get them in the car- get a propane (Mapp is better) torch and a big
socket with an extention.  When 
> the header needs to be "adjusted" to clear something, heat it until it
glows and wack the s**t out of it.
> 
> 3) I had to "adjust" the header around the block, starter motor strap,
engine mounts, oil filter mount, 
> etc.  Oh, yeah, the tranny cooling lines (if it's an automatic) need to
rerouted away from the heat.
> 

I have Hedman Hedders on my 67 442 and I did not have to beat them up as
much.  I had to dent for a bump in the frame crossmember and and once to
clear the upper control arm.  BUT, every brand is different and likewise so
is each car, so your success with headers can probably not be predicted
accurately.


Paul Rousseau
*1967 442

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 20:28:55 -0300
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: More Lansing things 2 do

Chris Brown Witt wrote:

>  There are a couple of Olds dealers handy, of course. Just East of 127 hwy on
> the N side of Michigan Ave [THE central, main E-W running, dividing street], is
> _______ Olds, dang, can't recall the name. Not a bad sign. You'll find it near
> the pretty obvious Sears water tower. Good photo-op.
>   Better sign in my opinion is that of University Olds, right in my backyard,
> on the W side of Cedar St.

What ever happened to Story Oldsmobile.  I was told they were the
largest Oldsmobile dealer in the Country.

And what about the Lansing Oldsmobile Co.  I guess they're long gone.  I
have a '38 brochure from there.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Jul 1997 00:29:58 -0300
From: Rumblefish@webtv.net (Thomas Cervi)
Subject: hurst olds emblems 

need right left and rear deck lid emblems

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 23:46:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: digest 744 reply

'78 Delta Duals:
I bought a parts car with custom-made duals: right after the cat, it split into
two, onw ran about 45 degrees off to the LH side of the car. Other followed the
usual path. Still have that setup somewhere. It was new, too. It worked.

- -- my wife [Rocketette@aol.com - someone PLEASE email her a howdy!] suggests:

You can set my Olds on fire
An' roll it into Hell,
But I still wouldn't trade it
For a stinkin' ol' Chevelle

I do believe there's a song in here somewhere, need a few more verses. I hear
there's a country song out now about the "Rocket 88", I always said what we
need is an Olds-specific song along the lines of "409" or "Little Douche Cup"
^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H Deuce Coupe.... or "Hot Rod Lincoln" or "Little GTO".

Not to go w/o the typical [in good sport] Ch*vy bashing:
Iroc = It's Really Only a Camaro


- --they said--
From: TERRANCE ROHNER <tthiel@lyrea.com>
Subject: air conditioning problems

my airconditioner in my wife's car doesn't work. The compressor isn't
turning on. I checked the fuses and there all right. I'm not a dummy
when it comes to mechanics but it's the wife's car and I very seldom
drive it so I really could care less if it works or not but she's been
bitching about me working on my own stuff and not hers so I know

From: "Terry Teague" <dawgs@conninc.com>
Subject: Re: air conditioning problems

ok you need to check the low pressure switch on the compressor. It is a
round plug with one black wire going to it.  Disconnect the wire and
ground it out, if the compressor comes on you are low in freon.

- --my reply--
In view of the wife's reply... soon to come... "For sale [insert Olds[es]
here], divorce forces sale..." Ahem, hope not.
 Aaaaahm, the lo-p switch is usually a 2-terminal is it not? And you need to
jumper the 2 wires together to make compressor come on. We've bee doing a lOT
of that at work lately... 1) check all fuses. Some GM cars had a fuse in the
wiring in the engine cpmtmt. Check for volts getting to the AC clutch,
basicaly. 'Course, jumping the lo-p switch is easy.  Next trick: A pro has to
charge & ck for leaks. If there's a leak, they HAVE to either fix it or suck
out the freon they used to ck forleaks & send you on your way. Freon goes for
$40 a lb at our shop. But, boy is AC nice, and if a mere $300-400 was all it
took, I'd keep it operational.

- --they said--
Subject: Valvetrain probs

Hello, my 350 in my '78 delta 88 has been having some valvetrain
problems lately, the intake valve on #6 cylinder is not sealing
correctly, therefore causing a soot/carbon buildup inside the intake
runner.  I'm going to take the valve cover off on Saturday to see what
kind of parts I need, but I have heard a lot about how 350's have
valvetrain noise/rocker pedestala wear down fast, etc and I was
wondering what kind of damage do you think is happening?  I know this
could be caused by a stuck lifter, a burned valve (let's hope not), and
worn pedestals/rockers, bent pushrods, etc.  I was wondering what was
the most common part to replace in the valvetrain..  Engine has 81k on
it, burns a quart of oil every 3000 miles, has an edelbrock performer
manifold/stock Q-jet, and the bottom end has bever been apart.

- --my reply--
Well, you really have to tear into it to diagnose. I will say this: the "good
running" 350 in the recent 72 parts car... had hella oil carbon buildup in one
cylinder. Why? Because, bee whiz, BOTH lifters had come apart, spilt their
guts, and the p'rods were sitting way down in the bottom of the plunger, not
doing much. One had gone sideways on the rocker, broke the pedestal off.
  Pull the RACovers. Start motor, ck for proper valve action. Go from there.
Might have to pull the intake to ck all lifters. Personally if I had the intake
off, all lifters would be replaced, only $35 or so a set at Engine Service
Group. Not the 1st time I've seen a lifter apart in the engine... [Sh]It
happens. Be sure to clean out your heads' oil return holes while you have the
RACovers off.
- --
Chris  B. Witt
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 23:48:52 -0400
From: "Terry Teague" <dawgs@conninc.com>
Subject: Re: Headers- notes and tips on installing

an old Jeep trick for headers also.......cut the metal between the tubes
at the heads.....seems that they are not always lined up with the
exhaust ports correctly

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 21:23:18 -0700
From: "Suzanne Rousseau" <ewok@clarkston.com>
Subject: cam profiles

                 
Does anyone know the specific cam profiles of W-30 MT, W-31 MT, and '70
Toro cams, including lobe separation and overlap?  I just got a dyno
program and this information is necessary.  Also, is there a way to figure
out the overlap of a cam if you know the duration and lobe centers?

What is the difference between a 'closed' and an 'open' chamber head, and
which one of these would Olds heads be?

Well...off to play with the Dyno some more....

Paul Rousseau
*1967 442

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Jul 1997 08:27:33 -0400
From: "MROTHE" <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: cam profiles

 
> Does anyone know the specific cam profiles of W-30 MT, W-31 MT, and '70
> Toro cams, including lobe separation and overlap?  I just got a dyno
> program and this information is necessary.  Also, is there a way to
figure
> out the overlap of a cam if you know the duration and lobe centers?


I will check my book out on this when I get home.  I'm at work now.  I
believe it has all the info necessary.   I think the W-31 MT cam is the
same as the AT, and also is the same as the W-30 AT.  I'm not sure though. 
Like I said, I'll check.  The Toro cam is a 285/287 duration with a 474
valve lift with 1.6 ratio rockers.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: 12 Jul 1997 04:46:52 PST
From: mjones@dragon.gleep.com
Subject: Re: Valvetrain probs

OL>oldsmobile-digest        Friday, July 11 1997        Volume 01 : Number 745



OL>Re: Valvetrain probs
OL>Re: The Wife
OL>Re: Valvetrain probs
OL>Re: Small Block Exhuast Manifolds?
OL>Re: The Wife
OL>Re: need parts
OL>Re: spring for olds hood emblem...
OL>spacer for door striker bolt
OL>Greg, Help!!
OL>RE: Overheating on 70 Cutlass
OL>72 sport wheel Button
OL>Re: How to blow a head gasket (and one way to avoid it?)
OL>Re: CHROMEWORK...............
OL>Re: CHROMEWORK...............
OL>Re: CHROMEWORK...............
OL>RE: How to blow a head gasket (and one way to avoid it?)
OL>Re: How to blow a head gasket (and one way to avoid it?)
OL>Re: Worcester Car Show
OL>Re: Lightening Rods
OL>RE: How to blow a head gasket (and one way to avoid it?)
OL>Re: CHROMEWORK...............
OL>Re: CHROMEWORK...............
OL>Re: Chrome tips
OL>Rocket Talk
OL>Re: CHROMEWORK...............
OL>Re: Overheating on 70 Cutlass
OL>Valve  roller rockers
OL>Re: spring for olds hood emblem...
OL>Re: Overheating on 70 Cutlass
OL>Sorry About the Joke
OL>Re: Rocket Talk
OL>Re: Headers
OL>Re: Overheating on 70 Cutlass
OL>Re: Chrome tips
OL>Re: Sorry About the Joke
OL>Re: Gas war
OL>Re: Old Tools/Muscle Car Review
OL>Re: Headers
OL>Re: Headers
OL>Re: Gas war
OL>Re: Wanted W 30 Aluminum intake
OL>Re: Sorry About the Joke
OL>SPAM - It's not just for mail list anymore!
OL>Re: Gas war
OL>Re: Sorry About the Joke
OL>Re: Sorry About the Joke
OL>Re: Headers- notes and tips on installing
OL>Re: Old Tools/Muscle Car Review
OL>water pump stud bolts
OL>442/Cutlass Parts For Sale
OL>Re: Valve  roller rockers

OL>----------------------------------------------------------------------

OL>Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 01:11:57 -0400
OL>From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
OL>Subject: Re: Valvetrain probs

OL>How have you determined this? Have you actually had the intake off lately? I
OL>ask, because soot can also be coming from the EGR ports.

Yes I have..  number six, which is on the other side of the manifold
away from the EGR valve.

OL>If the valvetrain was worn ecessively, you'd hear tapping/clattering noises,
OL>and the valve would not open *enough*, rather than opening too much and
OL>allowing combustion gasses back into the intake port.

I do hear a tapping sound though..  I can hear it from the engine
compartment and I can hear it from inside the car too.

OL>First, before you open it up, do a compression test; no sense replacing
OL>things that aren't bad. A while back (pre-rebuild, at about 175,000 miles),
OL>my 403 started missing, running on 7 cylinders, smoking, and I was *certain*

I have, last time I checked #6 was 10 psi lower than the other cylinders
(155 vs. 165)  BTW, Vacuum check is at about 19-20 in. needle stays in
one place, does not move while idiling.

OL>Ooops, I forgot to add:

OL>Unfortunately, it looks like you've got a burnt valve; nothing a simple
OL>valvejob wouldnt' fix.

Hope for the best, expect the worse.
I hope I can find a good set of #5 heads then.

MIke Jones
'78 88

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Jul 1997 10:35:52 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: cam profiles

> > Does anyone know the specific cam profiles of W-30 MT, W-31 MT, and '70
> > Toro cams, including lobe separation and overlap?  I just got a dyno
> > program and this information is necessary.  Also, is there a way to
> figure
> > out the overlap of a cam if you know the duration and lobe centers?

You may have already seen this from the FAQ:

Year Part #    Ovlp Duration  Lift      Application
                    Int./Exh. Int./Exh.

1970 393859    58   286/286   .472/.472 350 4BC ex. AT, OAI, hi-perf
     400165    57   285/287   .472/.472 4257, 67, 4400 AT, Toro W-34
     402486    48   262/274   .440/.440 455 Toro ex. W-34
     402569    108  328/328   .475/.475 455 4400 ST OAI (W-30)
     406768    68   294/296   .472/.472 455 4400 ST ex. OAI
     402194    82   308/308   .474/.474 350 W-31 OAI

Note:	Overlap in degrees
Note:	Olds rates duration at zero lift, most cam mfrs. rate duration
	at .050 lift

ST=standard trans   AT=automatic trans  2BC/4BC: 2 or 4 barrel carb


Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Jul 1997 12:00:00 -0400
From: "Jesse H. Bruton, Jr." <jbruton@work-web.com>
Subject: UNSUBSCRIBE

 unsubscribe oldsmobile-digest

dave@supptec.com


oldsmobile-digest wrote:

> oldsmobile-digest        Friday, July 11 1997        Volume 01 :
> Number 745
>
> Re: Valvetrain probs
> Re: The Wife
> Re: Valvetrain probs
> Re: Small Block Exhuast Manifolds?
> Re: The Wife
> Re: need parts
> Re: spring for olds hood emblem...
> spacer for door striker bolt
> Greg, Help!!
> RE: Overheating on 70 Cutlass
> 72 sport wheel Button
> Re: How to blow a head gasket (and one way to avoid it?)
> Re: CHROMEWORK...............
> Re: CHROMEWORK...............
> Re: CHROMEWORK...............
> RE: How to blow a head gasket (and one way to avoid it?)
> Re: How to blow a head gasket (and one way to avoid it?)
> Re: Worcester Car Show
> Re: Lightening Rods
> RE: How to blow a head gasket (and one way to avoid it?)
> Re: CHROMEWORK...............
> Re: CHROMEWORK...............
> Re: Chrome tips
> Rocket Talk
> Re: CHROMEWORK...............
> Re: Overheating on 70 Cutlass
> Valve  roller rockers
> Re: spring for olds hood emblem...
> Re: Overheating on 70 Cutlass
> Sorry About the Joke
> Re: Rocket Talk
> Re: Headers
> Re: Overheating on 70 Cutlass
> Re: Chrome tips
> Re: Sorry About the Joke
> Re: Gas war
> Re: Old Tools/Muscle Car Review
> Re: Headers
> Re: Headers
> Re: Gas war
> Re: Wanted W 30 Aluminum intake
> Re: Sorry About the Joke
> SPAM - It's not just for mail list anymore!
> Re: Gas war
> Re: Sorry About the Joke
> Re: Sorry About the Joke
> Re: Headers- notes and tips on installing
> Re: Old Tools/Muscle Car Review
> water pump stud bolts
> 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale
> Re: Valve  roller rockers
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 01:11:57 -0400
> From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
> Subject: Re: Valvetrain probs
>
> At 09:00 PM 7/10/97 PST, you wrote:
> >Hello, my 350 in my '78 delta 88 has been having some valvetrain
> >problems lately, the intake valve on #6 cylinder is not sealing
> >correctly, therefore causing a soot/carbon buildup inside the intake
>
> How have you determined this? Have you actually had the intake off
> lately? I
> ask, because soot can also be coming from the EGR ports.
>
> >runner.  I'm going to take the valve cover off on Saturday to see
> what
> >kind of parts I need, but I have heard a lot about how 350's have
> >valvetrain noise/rocker pedestala wear down fast, etc and I was
>
> If the valvetrain was worn ecessively, you'd hear tapping/clattering
> noises,
> and the valve would not open *enough*, rather than opening too much
> and
> allowing combustion gasses back into the intake port.
>
> >wondering what kind of damage do you think is happening?  I know this
>
> >could be caused by a stuck lifter, a burned valve (let's hope not),
> and
> >worn pedestals/rockers, bent pushrods, etc.  I was wondering what was
>
> >the most common part to replace in the valvetrain..  Engine has 81k
> on
> >it, burns a quart of oil every 3000 miles, has an edelbrock performer
>
> >manifold/stock Q-jet, and the bottom end has bever been apart.
>
> First, before you open it up, do a compression test; no sense
> replacing
> things that aren't bad. A while back (pre-rebuild, at about 175,000
> miles),
> my 403 started missing, running on 7 cylinders, smoking, and I was
> *certain*
> that the problem was a broken rocker arm, since a friend's Olds 350
> had the
> *exact* same symptons from that problem. So, I order the
> rocker/pedestal
> set, block out a morning to do the work, pull her all apart to replace
> the
> rocker, and (of course, you guessed it) the rocker was in perfect
> shape.
> Then I pulled the spark plug, and discovered that the plug was fouled
> from
> poor oil control in that cylinder (bad rings). Had I bothered to check
> the
> plug, and do further diagnostics, I could have saved a bit of time and
> money.
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 01:15:18 -0400
> From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
> Subject: Re: The Wife
>
> At 10:16 PM 7/10/97 +0000, you wrote:
> >Please disregard the message about the air conditioner in my car.  If
> my
> >husband can't take time out of his busy scheduel to do something nice
>
> >for me then I will just have to get it done myself!!!  I'd rather pay
>
> >whatever the cost is to get it fixed than listen to him bitch at me
> >'cause he had to actually think about me for a change!
>
> heh... of course, the moral of the story is that old VAX reminder...
>
> Keep your password a secret, and change it often!
>
> Bob (who's glad his wife is not very computer-literate) Barry
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 01:20:47 -0400
> From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
> Subject: Re: Valvetrain probs
>
> At 01:11 AM 7/11/97 -0400, you wrote:
> >>wondering what kind of damage do you think is happening?  I know
> this
> >>could be caused by a stuck lifter, a burned valve (let's hope not),
> and
>
> Ooops, I forgot to add:
>
> Unfortunately, it looks like you've got a burnt valve; nothing a
> simple
> valvejob wouldnt' fix.
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 01:20:50 -0400
> From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
> Subject: Re: Small Block Exhuast Manifolds?
>
> At 08:12 PM 7/10/97 -0400, you wrote:
> >Thomas, I thought the 307's and the 350's manifolds were both "logs".
>
> >Maybe the original owner installed headers or a modified manifold.
>
> Didn't the later 307's (with the 7A heads) have welded tubular exhaust
>
> manifolds? Like headers, but too small in diameter for performance
> use?
>
> The key will be where the newer pipe dumps into the single exhaust. Of
>
> course, you could always use the exhaust setup from an earlier version
> of
> the same chassis, which would have used the earlier cast 350
> manifolds.
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 06:16:15 -0700
> From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
> Subject: Re: The Wife
>
> She wrote:
> >
> > I'd rather pay whatever the cost is to get it fixed than listen to
> him
> > bitch at me 'cause he had to actually think about me for a change!
>
> Why do I get the feeling that he's really gonna be paying for this?
>
> And...  we're off!
>
>     66 Toro
> The /\   /\ and Mike
>
> - --
> Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
>      Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
>      (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 06:41:02 -0400
> From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
> Subject: Re: need parts
>
> At 01:11 PM 7/9/97 -0400, you wrote:
> >I have a 1970 cutlass, and I'm looking for a set of front fenders in
> >decent shape for a good price.  If you happen to have a set, e-mail
> me,
> >I'm interested.
> >
>
>         We've got NOS LH fenders and a good passenger side that has
> been
> patched for $600.00 pr.
>
> Jim Chermack
> C&M Classsic Parts
> (757) 474-0869
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 07:04:17 -0400
> From: Aaron D Eoff <sheep542@mindspring.com>
> Subject: Re: spring for olds hood emblem...
>
> At 09:03 PM 7/10/97 -0400, you wrote:
> >Good luck most hood s emblems had a piece of wire that and through
> the
> >spring and had a flattened out end that would prevent it from pulling
>
> >out of the mount. Probably looking for a good one with the wire or
> cable
> >intact would be your best option.
> >
>
> thanks terry
>
> Aaron D Eoff
>    ///////  ///////
>        //       //
>       //       //
>      //       //
>     //       //  'twas a goodyear
>
> 1977 Olds Cutlass Supreme
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 07:10:57 -0400
> From: Aaron D Eoff <sheep542@mindspring.com>
> Subject: spacer for door striker bolt
>
> Hello all, I was wondering how hard would it be to obtain the spacer
> that
> fits over the striker bolt that the car door latches on to when
> slammed
> shut. Mines wore off due to age. Ive tries alternatives like
> electrical tape
> but it didn't last. You'd be suprise at the difference that little
> spacer
> makes when intact!!
>
> TIA
>
> Aaron D Eoff
>    ///////  ///////
>        //       //
>       //       //
>      //       //
>     //       //  'twas a goodyear
>
> 1977 Olds Cutlass Supreme
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 08:09:26 -0400 (EDT)
> From: MPHeiser@aol.com
> Subject: Greg, Help!!
>
> Greg,
>    Tried to retrive your e-mail about relaeasing me from the list and
> when I
> went to open it, the server lost contact and it is gone for
> ever...damn AOL!
>  I am breaking down the cpu now, so please as a favor, do whatever you
> have
> to do on your end to get me off, please??
>
> Thanks so much,
> Mark Heiser
> mpheiser@aol.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 08:35:43 -0400
> From: Steve.Selinger@astramerck.com
> Subject: RE: Overheating on 70 Cutlass
>
> Doug,
>
>  Is the temp light coming on or not?  It may be that you have the
> wrong
> radiator cap installed.  From my experience, there are open and closed
> cooling
> systems.  Open and closed systems have different type radiator caps.
> I believe
> that the correct cap for your application is a closed system cap.  If
> you are
> running an open system cap, the cap may be trying to circulate the
> coolant into
> the overflow bottle (that you don't have).  I hope this help out.  Let
> me know
> what you find.
>
> Steve S.
>
> Doug Wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I may or may not have aproblem w/ my 70 cutlass 350 2b,  I replaced a
> hose and
> a thermostat.  It seems like the system is building up too much
> pressure.  I
> don't know what the engine is ruuning temp wise because All I have is
> the idiot
> light.  I am getting coolant out of the overflow almost every time I
> go for a
> spin.  Even on some short trips. 5-10 miles.  What is my problem?  I
> seem to
> have good flow because I thought it was water pump.  Any Suggestions?
>
> Thanks
>
> Doug H
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 09:07:33 -0400
> From: Steve.Selinger@astramerck.com
> Subject: 72 sport wheel Button
>
> Hello All, I have a ' 72 Cutlass Supreme with a sport steering wheel.
> My Horn
> button bearing the Oldsmobile Rocket is cracked.  Possibly the
> previous owner
> may have been horn happy.  Anyhow, I would like to know if anyone has
> a
> replacement button or knows where I might be able to obtain one.
> Thanks.
>
> Steve S.
>
> Steve.Selinger@Astramerck.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 08:18:10 -0500
> From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
> Subject: Re: How to blow a head gasket (and one way to avoid it?)
>
> > My interest is in *why* the head gasket blew when it did, and I
> think I
> have
> > a theory. When you park a car after having driven it for a while,
> the
> engine
> > temperature rises, since the coolant is no longer circulating. If
> the
> heads
> > are going to warp through differing rates of expansion in the
> casting,
> they
> > will be *most* warped when the engine is at its hottest, and a head
> gasket
> > has the *least* clamping force from a distorted cylinder head. Add
> in the
> > fact that the spacing between the cylinder walls on a 403 is
> slightly
> more
> > than a hairline, the extra pressure from a WOT burst on an engine
> that's
> > been "heat-soaking" for a bit and has just been started up is
> probably
> > enough to blow a head gasket.
> >
> > So, new procedure for driving my 403 is no WOT until the temp needle
> has
> > dropped down below 200 after having sat (it heat-soaks up to about
> 230'-240'
> > after about 5-10 minutes of sitting on a hot day, and since that's
> just
> the
> > coolant temp, the heads are probably quite a bit hotter than that,
> > especially at the wall between the cylinders, where there is no
> cooling
> > passages, and *especially* in the wall between the middle two
> cylinders,
> > where the exhaust valves are on either side of it).
> Hey Doc your theory sounds good but......... the extra heat you see on
> your
> gauge is coolant temp not the true temp of the head. The head is the
> hottest it is going to get when the engine is running, and continues
> to
> dump heat into the coolant as the engine cools off when you kill it.
> The
> water pump is no longer turning, no air is moving through the rad so
> the
> coolant temp climbs until everything is the same temperature then it
> all
> cools down together.
> I went to a Fel-pro seminar recently and they said that when a engine
> gets
> hot and the parts expand
> (especially aluminum head engines) the gasket is crushed. In the hot
> spots
> like you mentioned it can be more than the gasket can spring back
> from.
> This combined with head warpage repeated over and over and the gasket
> gives
> up its sealing ability, Detonation also puts a big strain on the
> gasket,
> Maybe it detonated a little when you got on it, the gasket was about
> to go
> anyway and that finished it off. Just my opinon
> Walter
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 21:34:01 -0700
> From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
> Subject: Re: CHROMEWORK...............
>
> I've said it before - i am computer illiterate - this emblem post with
> the
> evil 'bow tie' contents was supposed to go to the chrome guy (oh,
> duuuuuhhhh).
>
> Apologies for my content & delivery!
>
> Lisa Madsen
>
> Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '72 Vista
> Cruiser
> , '69 Toronado
>
> Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com
>
> My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 21:35:54 -0700
> From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
> Subject: Re: CHROMEWORK...............
>
> >Oh, the shame of it all.......
>
> Gulp ~ and right after your hand slapping over Olds content in the
> posts!!!
> Heresy, heresy.  But hey, gotta keep the other half happy with his B*w
> T*e
> product to keep the Oldsmobiles coming in the yard.
>
> Can you ever forgive me?  Can I belatedly claim some interloper
> again??
>
> Lisa Madsen
>
> Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '72 Vista
> Cruiser
> , '69 Toronado
>
> Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com
>
> My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 21:36:42 -0700
> From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
> Subject: Re: CHROMEWORK...............
>
> Thanks Terry.  i think they're salvageable but hey, they arent going
> on my
> car!!
>
> Lisa Madsen
>
> Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '72 Vista
> Cruiser
> , '69 Toronado
>
> Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com
>
> My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 09:51:04 -0400
> From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
> Subject: RE: How to blow a head gasket (and one way to avoid it?)
>
> Hey, Barry,
>         nice theory but what margin or error do you give this theory?
> A
> better question to ask is, how long has the engine been using that
> head
> gasket? My experience has been somewhat the same. My previous '72
> Cutlass, my father's oldsmobile, (where have I heard this before),
> since new,  and then passed onto me never had the head gasket change,
> it
> finally blew more than 15 years later , over 150K miles and a lot of
> racing. Why, because it was time. Although the heat soak has much to
> do
> with almost every part failing, I think the sudden grocery store
> parking
> lot get away might have had something to do with it but I don't think,
>
> so let's hear those tires shout.
>
> Fernando Proietto
> Systems Analyst - Informatics
>
> Environment Canada
> Ontario Region - Monitoring & Systems Branch
> 4905 Dufferin St.
> Downsview, Ontario
> M3H 5T4
>
> > ----------
> > From:         Robert Barry[SMTP:RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu]
> > Sent:         Friday, July 11, 1997 12:45 AM
> > To:   oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject:      How to blow a head gasket (and one way to avoid it?)
> >
> > Took the 403 out to do some shopping today; parked at a grocery
> store,
> > went
> > in for about 15 minutes, came out, started the car, and it ran fine.
>
> > At the
> > exit to the store, I had to pull into traffic, so I opened her up,
> and
> > suddenly got a *lot* of pinging and missing that did not go away. :(
>
> >
> > Back home, checked the timing, and everything was spot on; also
> > clamped the
> > pickup on each wire, and found all cylinders to be firing away
> (there
> > goes
> > the easy fix...). Then I did a compression test, which I'd been
> > meaning to
> > do for a while, and got 170 +/-5 psi on every cylinder, *except* on
> > #'s 3
> > and 5, which were both at 40psi. Pulled the head, and sure enough,
> > there was
> > a non-stock passageway through the head gasket. So, the head's off
> to
> > the
> > machine shop tomorrow morning for a surfacing, and hopefully back
> > tomorrow
> > afternoon so this all goes together for a short trip I was planning
> on
> > taking this Saturday.
> >
> > My interest is in *why* the head gasket blew when it did, and I
> think
> > I have
> > a theory. When you park a car after having driven it for a while,
> the
> > engine
> > temperature rises, since the coolant is no longer circulating. If
> the
> > heads
> > are going to warp through differing rates of expansion in the
> casting,
> > they
> > will be *most* warped when the engine is at its hottest, and a head
> > gasket
> > has the *least* clamping force from a distorted cylinder head. Add
> in
> > the
> > fact that the spacing between the cylinder walls on a 403 is
> slightly
> > more
> > than a hairline, the extra pressure from a WOT burst on an engine
> > that's
> > been "heat-soaking" for a bit and has just been started up is
> probably
> > enough to blow a head gasket.
> >
> > So, new procedure for driving my 403 is no WOT until the temp needle
>
> > has
> > dropped down below 200 after having sat (it heat-soaks up to about
> > 230'-240'
> > after about 5-10 minutes of sitting on a hot day, and since that's
> > just the
> > coolant temp, the heads are probably quite a bit hotter than that,
> > especially at the wall between the cylinders, where there is no
> > cooling
> > passages, and *especially* in the wall between the middle two
> > cylinders,
> > where the exhaust valves are on either side of it).
> > _______________________________________________________
> > Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> > Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
> >
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 10:22:50 -0400
> From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
> Subject: Re: How to blow a head gasket (and one way to avoid it?)
>
> At 08:18 AM 7/11/97 -0500, you wrote:
> <snip>
> >> temperature rises, since the coolant is no longer circulating. If
> the
> <snip>
> >Hey Doc your theory sounds good but......... the extra heat you see
> on your
> >gauge is coolant temp not the true temp of the head. The head is the
> >hottest it is going to get when the engine is running, and continues
> to
> >dump heat into the coolant as the engine cools off when you kill it.
> The
>
> <slapping forehead...> Duh... um, _yeah_, I knew that, uhhh, I was
> just
> _testing_ you, yeah, that's the ticket...
>
> >water pump is no longer turning, no air is moving through the rad so
> the
> >coolant temp climbs until everything is the same temperature then it
> all
> >cools down together.
>
> Right; the engine is not producing any more heat when it's just
> sitting
> there, so any rise in temperature will simply be a matter of heat
> exchange,
> with cool things (like coolant) getting hotter, and hot things (like
> that
> wall between the cylinders and the cylinder head between the exhaust
> valves)
> getting *cooler*, not hotter like my brain thought they would at
> 1:00am last
> night (that's why I'm a theologian, and not an engineer!)
>
> >I went to a Fel-pro seminar recently and they said that when a engine
> gets
> >hot and the parts expand
> >(especially aluminum head engines) the gasket is crushed. In the hot
> spots
> >like you mentioned it can be more than the gasket can spring back
> from.
> >This combined with head warpage repeated over and over and the gasket
> gives
> >up its sealing ability, Detonation also puts a big strain on the
> gasket,
> >Maybe it detonated a little when you got on it, the gasket was about
> to go
> >anyway and that finished it off. Just my opinon
>
> I like that idea. I'm just looking for ways of preventing this from
> happening again (this is supposed to be a daily driver, not just a
> weekend toy).
>
> And then "Proietto" chimed in...
> >Hey, Barry,
> >       nice theory but what margin or error do you give this theory?
> A
>
> +/- 100%, as with all my claims...
>
> >better question to ask is, how long has the engine been using that
> head
> >gasket? My experience has been somewhat the same. My previous '72
>
> Only about a year and 3000 miles, which is why I was worried about
> this
> being a recurring problem.
>
> >with almost every part failing, I think the sudden grocery store
> parking
> >lot get away might have had something to do with it but I don't
> think,
> >so let's hear those tires shout.
>
> I'm quite sure the immediate cause was the heavy throttle out of the
> parking
> lot, since it drove fine right up to that point, and drove lousy right
>
> after. Don't worry, those tires will be a'turning by tonight. Right
> now,
> though, I've got a lecture to write while the head is at the machine
> shop...
>
> Thanks for the input, one and all! I'm just hoping I don't have to
> O-ring
> this thing (who here had a recommendation by their machinist of just
> installing an O-ring groove in the head, with no receiver in the
> block? I
> might have to look into that, if I blow another gasket)
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 10:50:07 +0000
> From: "Rick" <richardc@equitrac.com>
> Subject: Re: Worcester Car Show
>
> It was from July 4th to the 6th. It was unreal. It is going to be
> again next year..Except this time we will be staying the whole
> weekend.
>
> Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 10:50:03 +0000
> From: "Rick" <richardc@equitrac.com>
> Subject: Re: Lightening Rods
>
> Thanks for the input I really dont want to destroy the set up of the
> car though. I am glad I aksed first!!
>
> Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 11:02:01 -0400
> From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
> Subject: RE: How to blow a head gasket (and one way to avoid it?)
>
> Why did you say that in the beginning. Now that changes everything.
> O.k.
> I agree with you. There...!
>
> Fernando Proietto
> Systems Analyst - Informatics
>
> Environment Canada
> Ontario Region - Monitoring & Systems Branch
> 4905 Dufferin St.
> Downsview, Ontario
> M3H 5T4
>
> > ----------
> > From:         Robert Barry[SMTP:rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu]
> > Sent:         Friday, July 11, 1997 10:22 AM
> > To:   oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject:      Re: How to blow a head gasket (and one way to avoid
> it?)
> >
> > >better question to ask is, how long has the engine been using that
> > head
> > >gasket? My experience has been somewhat the same. My previous '72
> >
> > Only about a year and 3000 miles, which is why I was worried about
> > this
> > being a recurring problem.
> > _______________________________________________________
> > Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> > Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
> >
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 12:14:19 -0300 (ADT)
> From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Re: CHROMEWORK...............
>
> On Thu, 10 Jul 1997, James Thingwold wrote:
> > Can you ever forgive me?  Can I belatedly claim some interloper
> again??
>
> Absolved... ;-)
>
> Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
> Canada
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 10:09:06 +0000
> From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
> Subject: Re: CHROMEWORK...............
>
> James Thingwold wrote:
> >
> > Thanks Terry.  i think they're salvageable but hey, they arent going
> on my
> > car!!
> >
> > Lisa Madsen
> >
>
> Lisa,
>
> That's the attitude I like to hear.
>
> Bill Culp
> Decatur, Alabama
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 12:09:20 -0300
> From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
> Subject: Re: Chrome tips
>
> Hi all,
>
> I just pulled the chrome exhaust tips off of the donor 68 4-4-2 car
> and
> was wondering if it is worth rechroming them or just getting new ones.
>
> I know Year One, Brothers, etal have them for sale, however, I would
> like original tips.  If I did go with new ones, then what could I get
> for my old ones?
>
> Later...
> Chris Sparks
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 12:18:41 -0300 (ADT)
> From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Rocket Talk
>
> Visited Charley's Rocket Talk site last night. I really enjoyed it,
> even
> though no one seemed to want to believe that it was me when I first
> showed up (do I have an imposter floating around somewhere?) It was
> similar to the discussions we had a while back on #oldsmobile
> on IRC but with a different crowd. Probably more accessible since all
> you
> need is a browser like Netscape and not a special IRC client.
>
> I think we had 6 folks there simultaneously and I enjoyed talking with
>
> everyone. Even with Paul H. and his strange attraction to pink cars...
> ;-)
>
> Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
> Canada
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 10:10:42 +0000
> From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
> Subject: Re: CHROMEWORK...............
>
> James Thingwold wrote:
> >
> > Can you ever forgive me?  Can I belatedly claim some interloper
> again??
> >
> > Lisa Madsen
> >
>
> Lisa,
>
> You've claimed this before?
>
> Bill Culp
> Decatur, Alabama
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 11:28:05 -0400 (EDT)
> From: "Douglas J Harkema" <harkema2@pilot.msu.edu>
> Subject: Re: Overheating on 70 Cutlass
>
> Steve, or anyone else.
>     No the Temp light is not coming on,  I'm going to check the cap
> right now.
>  I'm also looking for a stock radio for a 70 cutlass.
>
> Thanks
> Doug
>
> > > Doug,
> >
> >  Is the temp light coming on or not?  It may be that you have the
> wrong
> > radiator cap installed.  From my experience, there are open and
> closed cooling
>
> > systems.  Open and closed systems have different type radiator
> caps.  I believ
> e
> > that the correct cap for your application is a closed system cap.
> If you are
> > running an open system cap, the cap may be trying to circulate the
> coolant int
> o
> > the overflow bottle (that you don't have).  I hope this help out.
> Let me know
>
> > what you find.
> >
> >
> > Steve S.
> >
> >
> > Doug Wrote:
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > I may or may not have aproblem w/ my 70 cutlass 350 2b,  I replaced
> a hose and
>
> > a thermostat.  It seems like the system is building up too much
> pressure.  I
> > don't know what the engine is ruuning temp wise because All I have
> is the idio
> t
> > light.  I am getting coolant out of the overflow almost every time I
> go for a
> > spin.  Even on some short trips. 5-10 miles.  What is my problem?  I
> seem to
> > have good flow because I thought it was water pump.  Any
> Suggestions?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Doug H
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 11:32:24 -0400
> From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
> Subject: Valve  roller rockers
>
>         Well remember all that talk about noisy valve rockers, well I
> did something about it. I bought the High Energy kit offered by
> CompCams. Being in Canada things tend to take longer here, it took
> over
> three weeks inorder for the middle men involved with the order to get
> the order correct. Anyway, I got the kit, which is btw 1441-KIT, for
> the
> 350 engine. The engine is still not together, since one of the roller
> rockers in the kit had a damaged roller, so I'm still waiting for the
> replacement 2 weeks later. Anyway, the kit also didn't come with
> instructions so I had CompCams fax me a copy. It still doesn't
> mention
> what the torque setting should be for the threaded studs. Using
> lock-tite I snugged them down until I felt that  they won't  go any
> further without breaking them.  Can't await to hear a quite engine
> after
> all this time.
>         Does anyone know if there is a something else to do with the
> cold engine tie down procedure, more specific with the olds engines?
> know I have to adjust the  valves one at a time with them closed but
> should I stop tightening when the push rod can't be turned by hand or
> when the up-down movement stops? How do I know when I reach the proper
>
> pre-load? And is it a 1/4 turn or 1/2 turn after initial pre-load?  Do
>
> you need to come back later and re-adjust after some mileage? I know
> too
> many questions but I want to know the correct  procedures. O.k. so who
>
> know this stuff?
>
> Fernando Proietto
> Systems Analyst - Informatics
>
> Environment Canada
> Ontario Region - Monitoring & Systems Branch
> 4905 Dufferin St.
> Downsview, Ontario
> M3H 5T4
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 10:29:05 -0500
> From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
> Subject: Re: spring for olds hood emblem...
>
> Hi Gang! I'm finally back from a long trip to South Dakota & Wyoming,
> and
> an even longer attempt to get back on the digest. So, didja miss me?
>
> ...
>
> *cough*
>
> Whoa, just _look_ at the time; let's get going here!
>
> >From: Aaron D Eoff <sheep542@mindspring.com>
> >Subject: spring for olds hood emblem...
> >
> >Hello All,
> >
> >Recently my hood emblem fell off for no reason. Fortunately i didn't
> lose
> >it. CAn anyone tell me exactly how it is attached? I know it some
> sort of
> >spring or something. CAn i get from a parts store or would any spring
> do the
> >trick??
>
> This is from memory so I might miss a detail or two, but here goes:
>
> The emblem is spring-loaded so it will "give" if something hits it.
> Under
> the hood, the base of the emblem has an eyelet cast into it, and
> through
> the eyelet is a very long thin elongated-W-shaped clip. The center of
> the
> "W" loops through the eyelet; the outer legs of the "W" hold the lower
> end
> of the spring, which is trapped between the base of the hood ornament
> and
> the bottom of the W clip. When the emblem pulls up and out/over, the
> spring compresses as the clip is pulled upwards by the emblem. The
> spring
> itself is a long thin one, like that in a ballpoint pen, only bigger.
> (You can see a similar spring/loop setup on a screen door -- the part
> on
> a chain that's supposed to absorb the shock if the wind grabs the
> door.)
>
> Okay, fine; the problem occurs not when the spring breaks (it usually
> doesn't) but when either the W clip breaks or the cast eyelet on the
> base of the emblem tears out. Even if you find the spring (Have you
> looked? Checked the lower core support, or the ground of the space
> where you usually park?), reassembling it all will be a pain. You
> might want to scan junkyards for a replacement instead. If the bottom
> of the emblem shows the hole ripped open, you don't have anything down
>
> there to reattach the clip to anyway.
>
> As for the spring itself, the local Home Depot here has a huge
> selection
> of them; once you've found the clip and verified that the emblem is
> all
> right, you'll probably find a cheap spring there that will fit. But my
>
> guess is that one of parts you already have is AFU. Good luck...
>
> Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
> Datalogics, Inc.
> 101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
> Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 11:28:05 -0400 (EDT)
> From: "Douglas J Harkema" <harkema2@pilot.msu.edu>
> Subject: Re: Overheating on 70 Cutlass
>
> Steve, or anyone else.
>     No the Temp light is not coming on,  I'm going to check the cap
> right now.
>  I'm also looking for a stock radio for a 70 cutlass.
>
> Thanks
> Doug
>
> > > Doug,
> >
> >  Is the temp light coming on or not?  It may be that you have the
> wrong
> > radiator cap installed.  From my experience, there are open and
> closed cooling
>
> > systems.  Open and closed systems have different type radiator
> caps.  I believ
> e
> > that the correct cap for your application is a closed system cap.
> If you are
> > running an open system cap, the cap may be trying to circulate the
> coolant int
> o
> > the overflow bottle (that you don't have).  I hope this help out.
> Let me know
>
> > what you find.
> >
> >
> > Steve S.
> >
> >
> > Doug Wrote:
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > I may or may not have aproblem w/ my 70 cutlass 350 2b,  I replaced
> a hose and
>
> > a thermostat.  It seems like the system is building up too much
> pressure.  I
> > don't know what the engine is ruuning temp wise because All I have
> is the idio
> t
> > light.  I am getting coolant out of the overflow almost every time I
> go for a
> > spin.  Even on some short trips. 5-10 miles.  What is my problem?  I
> seem to
> > have good flow because I thought it was water pump.  Any
> Suggestions?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Doug H
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 11:43:52 +0000
> From: "Rick" <richardc@equitrac.com>
> Subject: Sorry About the Joke
>
> Didn' realize that all of you were going to be aggrivated with the
> joke. SO I am apologizing and will not do it again unless it has
> something to do with Olds. I thought that some of you might have
> gotten a kick out of it.
>
> Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 08:36:49 -0700
> From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
> Subject: Re: Rocket Talk
>
> Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>
> > on IRC but with a different crowd. Probably more accessible since
> all you
> > need is a browser like Netscape and not a special IRC client.
>
> I have Netscape and I cannot access this chat room.  I keep core
> dumping.
>
> Chris Sparks
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 11:48:24 +0000
> From: "Rick" <richardc@equitrac.com>
> Subject: Re: Headers
>
> Robert Barry
>
> You mentioned in your last email that you thought that there were
> some other companies that make headers that I can use. I have checked
> all the Catalogs and called people like Sanders and Headers by ED and
> they all say that they do not make them.Can you give me a lead to
> follow or something. It would be appreciated.
>
> Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 11:54:27 -0400
> From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
> Subject: Re: Overheating on 70 Cutlass
>
> At 11:28 AM 7/11/97 -0400, you wrote:
> >    No the Temp light is not coming on,  I'm going to check the cap
> right now.
> > I'm also looking for a stock radio for a 70 cutlass.
>
> I'll second the motion about getting a real temperature gauge, with
> numbers
> and everything; cheap, and you know where you are (an engine running
> at the
> right operating temperature can seem to throw off a lot of heat,
> especially
> if it's a warm day). One thing I'd highly recommend is adding an
> overflow
> tank to your system, if you haven't already. This will increase the
> coolant
> capacity of your car, and give you an extra margin of protection in
> case
> your engine does tend to run hot (which is the case with many of our
> Oldses).
>
> If you're looking for a stock-type radio for your '70, I've got one
> from a
> '72 that's pretty neat. It's an AM/FM mono unit, with the "flippin'
> dial"
> front; when you change from AM to FM, the dial flips as well, to
> reveal the
> numbers for the different bands. Your owner's manual should show this
> option
> (at least the owner's manual from my '70 does); the radio from the '72
> is
> identical to the '70. If you're interested, make me an offer
> (off-list,
> please); I'm keeping the non-stock unit in my SX.
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 11:54:25 -0400
> From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
> Subject: Re: Chrome tips
>
> At 12:09 PM 7/11/97 -0300, you wrote:
> >I just pulled the chrome exhaust tips off of the donor 68 4-4-2 car
> and
> >was wondering if it is worth rechroming them or just getting new
> ones.
> >I know Year One, Brothers, etal have them for sale, however, I would
> >like original tips.  If I did go with new ones, then what could I get
>
> >for my old ones?
>
> Repro units are $50/pair, which is probably cheaper than what it would
> cost
> to rechrome a pair. You might find a place to do it cheaper than that,
> but
> just make sure they promise to go easy on the buffing... (right,
> Lisa??? ;)
>
> The price you could get would depend upon the condition; if they're
> rusted
> or the chrome is bad, they're probably not worth more than $5-$10. If
> they're serviceable, you might get $20. As a rule of thumb,
> less-than-perfect originals are worth less than half of what excellent
>
> reproductions cost (sometimes, much less).
>
> Then again, if the reproductions are not that good (as is the case
> with some
> quarter panels), original or NOS parts would be worth *more* than the
> reproduction parts, sometimes *much* more (i.e. $180 for a repro
> quarter
> panel, vs. asking prices of $1800 for perfect NOS quarters).
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 12:07:47 -0400 (EDT)
> From: phouse@thor.feith.com (Peter L. House)
> Subject: Re: Sorry About the Joke
>
> >
> > Didn' realize that all of you were going to be aggrivated with the
> > joke. SO I am apologizing and will not do it again unless it has
> > something to do with Olds. I thought that some of you might have
> > gotten a kick out of it.
> >
> > Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>
> >
>
> I thought that it was funny.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 12:07:18 -0400
> From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
> Subject: Re: Gas war
>
> Dave Paulison wrote:
> >
> > >When is the last time anyone had a gas
> > >war going that was worth it?
> >
> > We got one going on here right now...three gas stations on the same
> > block.  93 octane started at $1.43 or $1.44/gal, now its down to
> > $1.16/gal.  I can live with that...
> >
> > Dave Paulison                    1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
> > Palm Bay, Florida                1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
> > dpauliso@juno.com
>
> Must be nice...here in Canada, 93 octane is going for 64.9 cents a
> litre, which is about $2.45 a gallon!  If it goes much higher, I'll
> have
> to start burning regular (87).
>
> S. Dave Ward   (Peterborough, Ontario)
>
> '78 Delta 88 (350)
> '85 Delta 88 (307)
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 11:23:43 -0500
> From: "smardale@airmail.net" <smardale@airmail.net>
> Subject: Re: Old Tools/Muscle Car Review
>
> At 09:43 PM 7/10/97 -0500, you wrote:
> >Does anyone know of a source of old tools, such as the ones listed in
> my
> >1965 Olds Chassis Service manual. The coil spring compressor used
> looks
> >cheap, but it would fit, and I need one. It's tool BT-6505. Does
> someone
> >here have one that I could rent? =)
> >
> >Also, if anyone wants the number to Muscle Car Review, let me know.
> You can
> >order back issues from them, they seem to have a lot of Olds cars
> featured,
> >and is a fun magazine. Let me know.
> >Nick
> - ------------------------------------------
>
> Nick,
>
> I've used Autozone's with no problem on my '65 442... I think it's a
> $40
> deposit, fully refundable upon return.
>
> Good Luck!
>
> Scott Martindale
> smardale@airmail.net
>
> 1965 442 Holiday Coupe
> 1965 442 Convertible
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 12:27:53 -0400
> From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
> Subject: Re: Headers
>
> At 11:48 AM 7/11/97 +0000, you wrote:
> >Robert Barry
>
> Or you can call me Bob...
>
> >You mentioned in your last email that you thought that there were
> >some other companies that make headers that I can use. I have checked
>
> >all the Catalogs and called people like Sanders and Headers by ED and
>
> >they all say that they do not make them.Can you give me a lead to
> >follow or something. It would be appreciated.
>
> Really, Hooker doesn't list an application for the '64-'77 A-body with
> a
> 330-350 motor? If not, you might try the Cyclone/Blackjack category of
>
> headers (cheap street headers, as opposed to pricey race headers). I
> don't
> have numbers of these places at my fingertips; isn't anybody on the
> list
> running a small-block with headers in their '64-'77 Cutlass?
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 12:53:19 -0500
> From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
> Subject: Re: Headers
>
> Robert Barry wrote:
> >
> > At 11:48 AM 7/11/97 +0000, you wrote:
> > >Robert Barry
> >
> > Or you can call me Bob...
> >
> > >You mentioned in your last email that you thought that there were
> > >some other companies that make headers that I can use. I have
> checked
> > >all the Catalogs and called people like Sanders and Headers by ED
> and
> > >they all say that they do not make them.Can you give me a lead to
> > >follow or something. It would be appreciated.
> >
> > Really, Hooker doesn't list an application for the '64-'77 A-body
> with a
> > 330-350 motor? If not, you might try the Cyclone/Blackjack category
> of
> > headers (cheap street headers, as opposed to pricey race headers). I
> don't
> > have numbers of these places at my fingertips; isn't anybody on the
> list
> > running a small-block with headers in their '64-'77 Cutlass?
>
> Try Jeg's.
>
> - --
> **********************************
> Matt Cremean
> Ev_Corp Main Admin.
> delta_v plug G/S/O Admin.
> +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
> CreamerSoft© Software
> http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
> +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
> 1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
> http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
> **********************************
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 13:19:29 -0400 (EDT)
> From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
> Subject: Re: Gas war
>
> > Must be nice...here in Canada, 93 octane is going for 64.9 cents a
> > litre, which is about $2.45 a gallon!  If it goes much higher, I'll
> have
>
> $2.45 Canadian == $1.79 U.S.
>
> On the July 1st weekend, there was somewhat of a gas price war in
> Toronto,
> when regular grade plunged to 50.9 cents/litre ($1.40 U.S. per U.S.
> gallon).
>
> > '78 Delta 88 (350)
> > '85 Delta 88 (307)
>
> Those low compression engines should run just fine on 87 octane fuel.
>
> Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario,
> Canada
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 13:17:24 -0500
> From: dhamlett@mitec.net
> Subject: Re: Wanted W 30 Aluminum intake
>
> Kurt Heinrich wrote:>
> > You can also check the classifieds on Brycemans page..
> > BTW, Jim Stohlman also has a '66 W-30, totally restored, for sale
> > $42,500.
>
> I just picked up a copy of "Deals on Wheels" last night and heres what
> I
> found:
> "1966 Oldsmobile 442-W-30, 400 tri-power with factory ram air, bronze,
>
> black vinyl, 4 speed, 4:56 posi, factory tach, buckets, power seat,
> steering and brakes. $15,495. (605)342-0872 Rapid City SD"
>
> NOW...This is probably not what it claims to be but if it were........
>
> Might be worth a phone call if any of you guys have 15 grand burning a
>
> hole in your pocket. =)
> - --
>
> - -----------------------------------------
>       Dan Hamlett
>       1966 Cutlass Convertible
>       1995 Cutlass Supreme SL
>       mailto:dhamlett@mitec.net
>       http://www.mitec.net/~dhamlett
> - -----------------------------------------
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 03:03:26 -0700
> From: dgerow@stonehill.edu (Daniel R. Gerow)
> Subject: Re: Sorry About the Joke
>
> Peter L. House wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Didn' realize that all of you were going to be aggrivated with the
>
> > > joke. SO I am apologizing and will not do it again unless it has
> > > something to do with Olds. I thought that some of you might have
> > > gotten a kick out of it.
> > >
> > > Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>
> > >
> >
> > I thought that it was funny.
>
> Hey, I thought it was funny too...Sometimes, just sometimes, the MAN
> gets a little too ridiculous with usage of power.  Of course, that is
> just my opinion.
>
> Rock on!
>
> Daniel
>
> sXe
>
> '69 442
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 15:06:58 -0700
> From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
> Subject: SPAM - It's not just for mail list anymore!
>
> For a limited time only (like the next 10 years or so) Edison3 is
> offering you a free copy of 128K of return fire.  Don't delay!  Go
> to http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/spam.gif now!
>
>     66 Toro
> The /\   /\ and Mike      ;)
>
> - --
> Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
>      Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
>      (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 15:19:15 -0400 (EDT)
> From: PaulP34167@aol.com
> Subject: Re: Gas war
>
> In a message dated 97-07-11 12:11:44 EDT, you write:
>
> > We got one going on here right now...three gas stations on the same
> >  block.  93 octane started at $1.43 or $1.44/gal, now its down to
> >  $1.16/gal.  I can live with that...
>
> Just heard a report on the news that inflation is almost nonexistent
> these
> days.  That translates into low prices for food, clothing, and the
> most
> important, gasoline for our thirsty Oldss.  Now, if I could just find
> a
> job...
>
> Paul Pate (graduate in August w/ mech. engineering degree)
> 70 Cutlass S
> 84 Camaro LG4
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 15:11:58 +0000
> From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
> Subject: Re: Sorry About the Joke
>
> Daniel R. Gerow wrote:
> >
> > Peter L. House wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Didn' realize that all of you were going to be aggrivated with
> the
> > > > joke. SO I am apologizing and will not do it again unless it has
>
> > > > something to do with Olds. I thought that some of you might have
>
> > > > gotten a kick out of it.
> > > >
> > > > Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>
> > > >
> > >
> > > I thought that it was funny.
> >
> > Hey, I thought it was funny too...Sometimes, just sometimes, the MAN
>
> > gets a little too ridiculous with usage of power.  Of course, that
> is
> > just my opinion.
> >
> > Rock on!
> >
> > Daniel
> >
> > sXe
> >
> > '69 442
>
> I wasn't thrilled w/the joke & I was't anoyed either.  If I had a
> choice, I wouldn't have had it here.  I won't ask anyone their choice
> on
> having me here.
>
> Gregg's job is to strike a happy medium on tast here.  He is doing his
>
> job very well.  Peter didn't commit a crime & Gregg didn't cut off a
> hand or finger.  He just stated that the joke may have gone over the
> line.  That's not an unreasonal observation.  Of course, Peter wasn't
> unreasonable in both his original post nor his apology either.  The
> whole thing sounds settled to me.
>
> Bill Culp
> Decatur, Alabama
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 13:24:24 -0700
> From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
> Subject: Re: Sorry About the Joke
>
> Enough is enough.  This is Greg's list.  What he says goes.
> End of story.  Amen.
>
> Chris Sparks
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 17:16:38 -0400
> From: hhzimmerman <hhzimmerman@worldnet.att.net>
> Subject: Re: Headers- notes and tips on installing
>
> Robert Barry wrote:
> >  isn't anybody on the list
> > running a small-block with headers in their '64-'77 Cutlass?
> >
>
> Yep, I have Blackjack aluminum coated headers on my '71 cutlass
> 'vertable with a 350.  I don't know the
> model number, but I just called Summit racing and they hooked me up
> with a pair.  I put them on over 6
> years ago, and they are just about rusted out- I would pay the extra
> money up front to get a pair ceramic
> coated- it's worth it to not have to "fit" a new pair into the car.
>
> A few notes on the blackjacks-
>
> 1) I blew out the first four sets of gaskets at the head- after
> looking carefully, I found out that one of
> the tubes was touching the bottom of the block, and holding the flange
> from seating flat against the
> engine.  I hammered it flat and blew another set of gaskets- after
> looking carefully again, I found out
> that the exaust balance tube (which was welded up with the headers not
> seated right) was holding the flange
> out of alignment.  A new balance tube fixed it.
>
> 2) To get them in the car- get a propane (Mapp is better) torch and a
> big socket with an extention.  When
> the header needs to be "adjusted" to clear something, heat it until it
> glows and wack the s**t out of it.
>
> 3) I had to "adjust" the header around the block, starter motor strap,
> engine mounts, oil filter mount,
> etc.  Oh, yeah, the tranny cooling lines (if it's an automatic) need
> to rerouted away from the heat.
>
> 4) Unless you plan to use a remote location oil filter set-up, you
> need to find an el-cheapo pep-boys oil
> filter wrench that is thin enough to get around the filter.
>
> 5) The starter needs to be removed when messing with the driver side
> header.
>
> 6) To get them up under the car, jack the car as high as you can get
> it (about 18").
>
> 7) Order Summit Racing's stainless steel header bolts, collector
> reducers, and reducer bolts.  The SS bolts
> have built in shoulders (no washer needed), and reduced heads that are
> 3/8" size as opposed to 7/16" so
> they are easier to get in.  Also, the SS reducer is recommened because
> I used the reducers that came with
> the headers, and they rusted out- I just paid $112 three days ago to
> get new ones welded in.
>
> 8) Felpro high performance header gaskets with Permatex Ultra copper
> on both sides are the only leakproof
> set-up I've found so far.
>
> Hope these help somebody, I spent a lot of blood, sweat, and money to
> find out this information!
>
> - -greg
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 17:28:07 -0400
> From: dgerow@stonehill.edu (Daniel R. Gerow)
> Subject: Re: Old Tools/Muscle Car Review
>
> Nick Gomez wrote:
>
> > Also, if anyone wants the number to Muscle Car Review, let me know.
> > You can
> > order back issues from them, they seem to have a lot of Olds cars
> > featured,
> > and is a fun magazine. Let me know.
> > Nick
>
>    Could I please have their address.  I have searched about 25
> different magazine stores in my area with no luck.  Thanks alot.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 17:38:16 -0400
> From: helle@theonramp.net (Jim Helle)
> Subject: water pump stud bolts
>
> The guy that owned my cutlass prior changed the clutch fan and put
> this
> put this strieght drive fan on. I sound like a jet plane just about to
>
> take off. He did leave the clutch fan in the trunk. The only problem
> is
> noone knows (in the parts houses I have checked, thier book don't go
> back that far) the size and length of the stud that goes into the
> water
> pump and back into the fan base. Someone out there does know the
> correct
> answer, rite?
>
> Thanks
> Jim
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 17:57:36 -0400
> From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
> Subject: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale
>
>                               C&M Classic Parts
>
> Hours:  Mon-Fri  6:00 pm - 10:00 pm, Sat 9:00 am - 6:00 pm
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Bumper Bracket sets ALL years  $25.00 pr
> 70-72 455 Engine Mounts (NEW)  $40.00 pr
>
> 68-72 350 Engine Mounts (NEW)  $38.00 pr
>
> TH350 Shift Cable Bracket  $15.00
>
> New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts for 1964-1972 Cutlass/442
> _______________________________________________
> 66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) $34.50 ea
> 68-75 SSII/III Center Caps (N.O.S.) $34.50 ea
> 69 Cutlass RH Grilles (N.O.S.) $70.00 ea
> 70-72 LH Coupe/Conv Door Skin (N.O.S.)  $200.00
> 70-72 Cutlass/442 LH Fenders (N.O.S.) $450.00 ea
> 71-72 Turn Signal Lens (N.O.S.)  $90.00 pr
> 71-72 Stone Shields (N.O.S.) $38.00 ea
> 71-72 Headlight Housings (plastic) (N.O.S.) $90.00 pr
> 71-72 Cutlass Rear Bumpers (N.O.S.) $380.00 ea
> 71-75  Cutlass Fender Emblems (N.O.S.)  $19.50 ea
> 72 Cutlass Supreme & Hurst/Olds Grilles (N.O.S.)  $125.00 pr
>
> Used Parts
> _______________________________________________
> 64 Cutlass/442
> RH Headlight Bezel  $15.00
> Front Bumper Core  $40.00
> LH/RH Taillight Lens  $8.00 ea
> F-85 Fender Emblem (nice)  $5.00
> V-8 Emblem  $5.00
>
> 66 Cutlass/442
> 66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
> 66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00
> set)
> 66 Cutlass/442 Full Turbine Hucaps (very, very nice)  $130.00 set
> 66/67 Dash Pad (very good, black)  $125.00
> Headlight Bezels  $40.00 pr
> Cutlass Front Grille  $40.00
> LH Rear side molding  $10.00
> Rear Window Molding Set  $65.00 set
> Exterior A-Pillar Chrome Moldings  $15.00 pr
> F-85/Cutlass Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea
>
> 67 Cutlass/442
> 66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
> 66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00
> set)
> 67 LH Fender (Arizona part) Very nice  $350.00
> 67 RH Fender (small hole, straight)  $200.00
> Cutlass Headlight Bezels  $55.00 pr
> Front Bumper Cores  $45.00 ea
> A Pillar Moldings  $15.00 pr
> Deluxe Full Wheel Covers  $20.00 ea
>
> 68 Cutlass/442
> 68 Lower Dash (radio area)  (nice)  $25.00
> 68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
> 68-69 LH Quarter Panel  (mint)  $225.00
> 68-69 RH Quarter Panel  (mint)  $225.00
> 68/69 SSII 14x6 Wheels (4) mint  $$160.00 set
> 68-69 Dash Pad (mint, Gold)  $120.00
> 68-69 Top Fender Moldings (near windshield, mint)  $40.00 pr
> 68-69 14x6 SSII Wheels (set of 4, nice)  $160.00 set
> 68 Cutlass/442 Hood Hinges  $50.00 pr
> 68-72 Cutlass S LH Rear Side Glass (clear)  $45.00
> Rear Window Molding Sets  $85.00 set
> 68 Cutlass/442 Std Horn Button (black, nice)  $7.00
> 68 Air Cleaner Stove Pipe (pipe only)  $10.00
> 68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $20.00 ea
> 68-72 Cowl mouldings  $25.00ea
> 68-72 B-Pillar Molding Set (black, mint) $25.00 pr
> 68/69 442 Front Fender LH (need small patch)  $75.00
>
> 69 Cutlass/442
> 69 Lower Dash (radio area)  (nice)  $25.00
> 69 C/S Side Moldings  $20.00 ea
> 68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
> 68-69 LH Quarter Panel  (mint)  $225.00
> 68-69 RH Quarter Panel  (mint)  $225.00
> 68/69 SSII 14x6 Wheels (4) mint  $$160.00 set
> 68-69 Dash Pad (mint, Gold)  $120.00
> 68-69 Top Fender Moldings (near windshield, mint)  $40.00 pr
> 68-69 14x6 SSII Wheels (set of 4, nice)  $160.00 set
> 69 Core Support (3 Row Radiator, nice)  $175.00
> 69 Cutlass Grilles (mint)  $200.00 pr
> 69 Headlight Housings  (mint)  $80.00 pr
> 69 Cutlass/442 Doors (mint pair)  $300.00 pr / $160.00 ea
> 442 Grilles (nice)  $180.00 pr
> 442 Hood Tongue  $35.00 ea
> Hood Hinges  $50.00 pr
> Hood Louver Chrome  $35.00 pr
> Hood Louver Moldiings  $35.00 pr
> Windshield Molding Sets  $65.00 set
> Rear Window Molding Sets  $85.00 set
> 69-72 Floor Shift Steering Column (very good)  $100.00
> 69 Cutlass/442 Front Bumper (good cond) $100.00
> 69 LH Top Fender Moldings (excellent) $35.00
> 69 LH Fender (no rust holes)  $380.00
> 69 RH Fender (same)  $380.00
> 69 Rear Bumper (V05 rub strip) one small ding  $185.00
> 69 Front and Rear 4 Doors   (small dings, no rust) $75.00 ea
> 69 Tail Light Bezels  (mint)  $150.00 pr
> 69 4 Door Panels (Gold, cloth, nice)  $40.00 ea
>
> 70 Cutlass/442
> 70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switch Bezels  $5.00 ea
> 70 RH Sport Mirror Shell  $40.00
> SSII Wheels (set of 4)  $160.00
> 70 F-85 Horn Button (cheap style wheel, excellent)  $10.00
> 70 Oldsmobile Options Folder  $5.00
> 70 C/S Wide side moldings  $20.00 ea
> 69-70 C/S Front Hood Rocket (nice)  $12.00
> S Hood Chrome Vents  $35.00 pr
> S Hood Vent Moldings  $35.00 pr
> "S" Pillared Coupe Door Panels (good cond)  $40.00 pr
> Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $90.00
> Black A/C and Non A/C Dash Pads  $100.00 ea
> Blue Auto Shift Console  $125.00 (w/shifter)
> 70-71  Glove Box Doors  $15.00 ea
> 70-72 RH Fender (needs patch panel)   $100.00
> 70 Cutlass 'S' Tail Light Lens   $10.00 ea
> 70-72 Cutlass S Vinyl Top rear moldings (few pits)  $8.00 pr
> 70 Cutlass Supreme Flat Hood   $125.00
>
> 71 Cutlass/442
> 71-72 10 Bolt 2.73:1 (open rear)  $75.00
> 71-72 Sport Mirrors (excellent cond)  $100.00 pr
> SSII/III Wheels  (set of 4)  $160.00
> 71-72 Cutlass S/442 Hood Louvers (nice)  $35.00 pr
> 71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00
> 71 Front Rocket Emblem (nice)  $5.00
>
> 72 Cutlass/442
> 71-72 10 Bolt 2.73:1 (open rear)  $75.00
> 71-72 Sport Mirrors (excellent cond)  $100.00 pr
> 72 Cutlass/442 Owners Manual  $7.00
> SSII/III Wheels (set of 4)  $160.00
> 72 Cutlass Supreme Side Moldings (excellent)  $110.00 set
> 71-72 Cutlass S/442 Hood Louvers (nice)  $35.00 pr
> 71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00
>
> Toronado Parts
> 66-67 Toronado Chrome Dash Bezel (Mint)  $40.00
> 66-68 Toronado Pitman Arm (excellent cond) GM  $45.00
> 66-? Toronado Front Brake Drum  $15.00
> 66-69 Toronado Interior Moldings (Ivory)  $5.00 ea
> 66-69 Toronado LH & RH Rear Side Windows  $30.00 ea
> 66-68 Toronado Back Glass  $40.00
> 68-69 Toronado Headlight Vacuum Module  $40.00
>
>
> We are considering reproducting the extremely rare 66 Tri-carb Shroud
> assembly if we get 10-20 orders. It won't be cheap to do this. This is
> the
> chrome top shroud and the black lower. It will be made of fiber glass
> and
> plastic chrome plated. Prices will be around $550.00 ea and will look
> correct but won't cost an arm and a leg. Considerations for the part
> will be
> made by 1 Aug 97. The mold will be taken from an original shroud
> assembly we
> have. Please Email us with the title "Shroud".  The reproduction 70-72
>
> Cutlass/442 Auto Trans Console Indicators $24.00 ea. plus $3.00
> shipping.
> We have also reproduced the 63 Starfire console shift lens $35.00 plus
> $3.00
> shipping. We have recieved a 67-69 2 spd auto shift lens and will be
> reproducing these for the Jetaway Trans. cars. Looking for a decent
> 64-66
> auto trans shift lens for reference to reproduce.
>
> Jim Chermack
> C&M Classic Parts
> OCA #24275
> 67 442 W-30 Trac-Pac
> 67 Cutlass Supreme
> '70 Cutlass SX W-32
> '72 442 (350)
> '94 Cutlass Supreme
> '96 C-1500
> Virginia  Beach, VA
> (757) 474-0869
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 17:42:45 -0400
> From: "MROTHE" <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
> Subject: Re: Valve  roller rockers
>
> >
> > did something about it. I bought the High Energy kit offered by
> > CompCams.
>
> >       Does anyone know if there is a something else to do with the
> > cold engine tie down procedure, more specific with the olds engines?
>
> > know I have to adjust the  valves one at a time with them closed but
>
> > should I stop tightening when the push rod can't be turned by hand
> or
> > when the up-down movement stops? How do I know when I reach the
> proper
> > pre-load?
>
> Frenando,
>
> I have the Mondello kit on my 71 442, and the kit is virtually
> identical in
> how it is done.  This is what I did for initial start, and it worked
> great.
>  Valves closed, lifters "soft" (hardly any oil left for some give)
> start
> tightening until they just contact the valve and pushrod with all
> slack
> taken up.  Then I did another 1/2 turn tight to give the lifter some
> preload.  20-60 thousandths was the spec, I think.  Anyway, it took
> some
> time to do all this, but the engine fired with no rattling.  After
> running
> it for a while, I didn't trust myself, so I wanted to do it the old
> Ch*vy
> way. I cut an old valve cover in half lengthwise to gain access to the
>
> rocker nuts and keep from oiling the headers.  I used the clip on
> splash
> guards for the rockers, and then adjusted each valve with the engine
> at
> idle.  Loosen each till they clacked, tighten till they stop, then an
> additional 1/2 turn.  Been set ever since.  No clinking noise either.
>
> Hope this helps you.
>
> Mike Rothe
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #745
> ********************************

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #746
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