To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #707


oldsmobile-digest          Wednesday, 4 June 1997       Volume 01 : Number 707

Re: Ram-air setup
Re: Tunnel ram/heads/ect..
Re: Wild 442 in Butte, MT (Scott???)
Re: Ram-air setup
69 H/O cam
Soylent Ocean Mist's Big Toe (out)
VIN plate, parts needed
Oldsmobile Web Site
Re: Tunnel ram/heads/ect..
Super cars unltd.
Re: More Parts For Sale - Freon Replacement
RE: More Parts For Sale
Jetting for a 3310 Holley
Hey Esko.....
Re: Work Bench Advice Wanted
Re: VIN plate, parts needed
Re: Driveshaft length
Re: Jetting for a 3310 Holley
Heat Pipe Filter Screen
Re: Michael Brady
Re: Super stock 1
Re: Tech Tip
Re: Question for Charley, et al., on rear end gearing
Re: Super cars unltd.
Re: Jetting for a 3310 Holley
RE: More Parts For Sale
Meet on Sat. (was: Soylent Ocean Mist's Big Toe (out))
Re: Work Bench Advice Wanted
1966 Cutlass convertibile
Re: Michael Brady
auto salvage yards in the south
oldsmobile-digest V1 ª706
Re: Work Bench Advice Wanted
2 Olds for sale
RE: Work Bench Advice Wanted
55 Olds Info
[none]
Re: More Parts For Sale
Re: More Parts For Sale
RE: More Parts For Sale
Re: More Parts For Sale - Freon Replacement
VIN ª question
RE: More Parts For Sale
Re: Jetting for a 3310 Holley
Re: air con bracket alignment
Re: Question for Charley, et al., on rear end gearing
Re: Question for Charley, et al., on rear end gearing
Re: Soylent Ocean Mist's Big Toe (out)
Re: 69 H/O Cam
Re: 69 H/O Cam
Re: VIN ª question
RE: 69 H/O Cam

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 21:19:43 -0300
Subject: Re: Ram-air setup

At 10:28 PM 6/3/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Hey everyone,
>
>I was just reading Chris Smetana's mail and it struck a question that I
>have.  I have a '71 442 with the ram air hood.  I have a standard air
>cleaner with it.  What all do I need to purchase to get the full effect
>of the forced air system?  Do I need a new air cleaner or just a
>different setup?
>
>Bryan Bodine
>
Bryan

        All you need to make the system work is the plastic air cleaner
flapper assm and it's associated hardware. The only place that sell's a
correct repro is Brothers Automotive. All the others use an improper piano
hinge instead of the plastic clips.
Price for the whole thing is around $500.00.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 21:22:08 -0300
Subject: Re: Tunnel ram/heads/ect..

At 08:08 PM 6/3/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Welp, I took back the tunnel ram. In part due to the fact that
>spacers($75) and special linkage($150) were required to run double
>pumpers on it(sideways), along with the machine shops opinion that there
>would be no advantage using a tunnel ram on a motor that won't see more
>than 6500rpm.  So now there is an Offy Super Sonic hi rise single plane
>sitting on my short block, and a 1050 Dominator sitting on top of that.
>I was also able to return the Comp Cams cam (.540/.540/252@.050) and
>Hyd. lifters.  I think I'm going to opt for the solid lifter Mondello
>grind .562/.594 270/280@.050.  Any opinions?
>
>As for my heads I finally recieved them from Greg Bowles (a list
>member).  They are 70 Toro "E" heads (someone ground down the "E" into
>an "F") The EGR bumps have been removed and the intake/exhaust throats
>look to be mildly ported.  The combustion chambers have been polished.
>One head has the heat riser blocked off. (not bad for $100) I'll have a
>local Olds guy port them out fully, mill them .040-.050, and block off
>the other riser.
>
>  It's been a long time comming but looks like I'll be starting this bad
>boy in the next few weeks.  :)
>
>Ken
>
Ken

        I think you made a wise choice in the cam and manifold department.
That should make one killer combination.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 21:38:07 -0300
Subject: Re: Wild 442 in Butte, MT (Scott???)

>      A friend here went to a track meet last week in Butte MT, and reported
> seeing an "awesome" 442, he guessed '67-ish...  There was another 70-ish 442
> there as well (it had a car alarm...)  I think he said one of 'em was blue
> with a red stripe somewhere? can't recall that much of the descriptions.
> He'd seen the 67? from the track bus, and  said the big blower sticking out
> of the hood ~really~ caught his attention.  (Who'd blame him...)  Scott,
> you're from Butte, right?  Any info to report on this thing?  Ever seen it?
> (Tell me he doesn't have a ch*vy in there, ~please~!!!!)

Hey guys (and Charlie) sorry this has taken me so long to reply
to, but I've been busey moving across town.  Between that and working on
my (and other peoples cars) I have'nt had time to check my mail in almost
two weeks.  Anyway, yea I am from Butte, but I have'nt been back there for
a while, and I know I'd remember a car like that if I'd seen it before!!
I'll be over there soon for a friends wedding, and I'll keep an eye out
for it then.  You don't see too many cars around there with blowers, and
they usually seem to hang out on the drag at night so finding it should'nt
be too much trouble.  I'll let you guys know if I get any pics :)  Oh, and
if you (Charlie) see Dustin, tell him sorry I never got ahold of him and
tell him to give me a ring when he gets back into town.

Later,

Scott
1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@Prodigy.Net>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 21:32:11 -0300
Subject: Re: Ram-air setup

Bryan Bodine wrote:
>
> Hey everyone,
>
> I was just reading Chris Smetana's mail and it struck a question that I
> have.  I have a '71 442 with the ram air hood.  I have a standard air
> cleaner with it.  What all do I need to purchase to get the full effect
> of the forced air system?  Do I need a new air cleaner or just a
> different setup?
>
> Bryan Bodine

If it is the standard air cleaner, it is the dual-snorkel variety.  It
WILL work if you buy a air filter, ram air inner lid, and ram air
flapper top assembly, a little drain hose for the back of the flapper
top, and a foam seal.  You would also need the hold down springs for the
top and possibly brackets in the middle of the top of the valve covers
for the springs.  This will work, but the ram air originally came with
the single-snorkel air breather.  All of the above items can be obtained
through Brother's Automotive,(they're pretty fast now if they have it in
stock), and Year One, and Parts USA, and probably others, etc.  Warning:
It is NOT cheap.

I hope this helps.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 21:44:03 -0300
Subject: 69 H/O cam

Thanks to James Chermack and Jon Wessel, I have ordered the correct
variety of cam for my 69 H/O from Supercars Unlimited.  Cost is
$109.95.  It ships tomorrow!  Yea!

Speaking of costs, I talked to the Olds dealer parts guy and I can get
brand new 85-87 442 chrome wheels (15X7) for $300 (tax included) each.
So far this is the cheapest I've seen around or even mentioned here.
Anyone interested?  This price is for the wheel only, no center cap.
(Since I was there, I bought a set.)  Of course shipping charges could
offset some savings, but believe me, even if it was 25 per wheel, you
are looking at only $1300 or so for a full set to your door. Which is
better than $1400 plus than the cheapest anyone else claimed they could
get.  I am willing to do this for anyone desiring a set of these
wheels.  No problem.  GM makes enough money off us as it is.  Figured I
can do my part in trying to help save someone some $$$$$.

E-mail me for more info.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 22:10:35 -0300
Subject: Soylent Ocean Mist's Big Toe (out)

Hi all.

Well it has been the kind of day that usually ends up being preserved for
posterity in a Kafka-esque film noir or some kind of black comedy.
{Pssshhht!} (aspirin takes too long to work).

I changed the oil over the weekend. I was failing to acquire purchase of the
oil filter with my filter socket (I am never gonna use Purolater again...I
just hope I remember that when I am at the parts store,....) and was reaching
... under ... with ... my ... other ... hand ... to ... try ... to ... push
... the... socket ... up ... {uhhnn!} ... when...

The inside 1" of my tire treads were bald (one year old).

That was Saturday. On Sunday I made an appointment for an alignment that took
place today. Went straight from work. Took more than 1.5 hours! The wear was
caused by the fact that the toe was circa 0.40' and 0.50' (sp?) out of
specifications. At the end of the actual alignment (I hate thinking about
this) the mechanic (?) bent up my main exhaust pipe (caught it on that
sliding tray thingy [and yes, thingy is a technical term) when backing off of
the lift. The main damage was that the main pipe pulled away from the header
{psshhht!}. Fortunately (?) they will fix it for free (BTW my local "Just
Tires" shop) I am bringing him back tomorrow. The guy attempted to fix it but
from the sound and accelleration loss you can tell there is still a
significant gap still.

Fortunately for me Mr. Brown, Mr. Ruper and I already have a date with a few
salvage yards on Saturday. I am going to have to look at tires (short term
fix). Note to CHRIS RUPER; I suggested to Dave (think he agrees) that we
should wisit the other places before hitting A&B. There may be pricing
advantages in the threat of ccompetition.

Oh! Best for last. Yesterday I parked on the street with my _front_ bumper
alongside the "No Parking Here To Corner" sign. This morning I walk out to
the car and see a brown 80's Oldsmobile (Iguess there is no accounting for
taste) parked in front of Soylent Ocean Mist with his rear bumper in contact
with my front! And the car behind is only 6" away. Solution? Apply torque in
both directions. I was away in five minutes. 425ci saves the day. If there is
a next time I am going to keep going until he blocks traffic.

Anyway, got to ask the obligatory questions.

1) What factors (i.e. geometry, center of weight...) should be considered
when going from 14" rims on four wheels to 15" rims on the rear only? (I
might as well, I need two tires anyway)

2) For the drums and wheel bolts that I have, such a swap will go fine as
long as I replace a 5x5 bolt pattern with a 5x5 bolt pattern, right?

3) How exactly is bolt pattern measured? I presume that it is a
center-to-center measurement between bolts/bolt holes, but which bolts? Those
farthest from each other?

Beware you don not trip over my spleen on the way out!

Thanks everybody!

I will have that Product Guide going soon!

Karl Aune
1965 Dynamic 88
Chicago, IL

http://members.aol.com/KarlAunan/index.html

Extensive Gridiron Reports?

found my E.G.R. list!

------------------------------

From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 22:38:38 -0300
Subject: VIN plate, parts needed

Whew, started taking trim, bumpers, etc. off the sport coupe 68... Pretty bad
rust. First, a question esp. to anyone who has a '68 W30... my VIN plate seems
to be attached in an unorthodox manner: regular pop rivets from underneath.
Not the 'scalloped' pop rivets from above usually seen. So, does anyone else's
have this feature, or has mine been the victim of an improper past?

And, there's a few things that the car needs to make it presentable:
- -a post coupe body would be nice, relatively rustfree like from the desert
SW, say. Needs to have floor, trunk floor, 1/4 panels, decklid. The front end,
frame, doors, motor, trans, differential, interior, wiring, etc. I have
already. 'Course, if it came with that'd be fine too. Any Cutlassy body would
do, I would use this car's already suspect VIN plate anyhow.

Barring that, I'd settle for some of the pieces:
- -decklid for a 2-door '68 or '69
- -pretty trunk decorative rocket, about 3.95" OAL, 2 pegs about 1.75" on
center - -68 scoops? I'll buy new when they make 'em, and the slated engine
can't use 'em anyhow just yet. This can wait.

More later, I'm sure.

- --
Chris  B. Witt
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 18:44:26 -0300
Subject: Oldsmobile Web Site

Dropped in on the Oldsmobile Web Site tonite, just to nose around.
Image my surprise when I noted that they are admitting to being in
business for 100 years.  There's still hope!  Haven't checked it out
fully, so I'm goin' back now.  Maybe you want to go to.  See them at:

http://www.oldsmobile.com

Paul

- --
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

From: Daren & Laurie <daren@revealed.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 23:09:26 -0300
Subject: Re: Tunnel ram/heads/ect..

S/P 0666 wrote:
>
> Welp, I took back the tunnel ram. In part due to the fact that
> spacers($75) and special linkage($150) were required to run double
> pumpers on it(sideways), along with the machine shops opinion that there
> would be no advantage using a tunnel ram on a motor that won't see more
> than 6500rpm.  So now there is an Offy Super Sonic hi rise single plane
> sitting on my short block, and a 1050 Dominator sitting on top of that.
> I was also able to return the Comp Cams cam (.540/.540/252@.050) and
> Hyd. lifters.  I think I'm going to opt for the solid lifter Mondello
> grind .562/.594 270/280@.050.  Any opinions?
>
> As for my heads I finally recieved them from Greg Bowles (a list
> member).  They are 70 Toro "E" heads (someone ground down the "E" into
> an "F") The EGR bumps have been removed and the intake/exhaust throats
> look to be mildly ported.  The combustion chambers have been polished.
> One head has the heat riser blocked off. (not bad for $100) I'll have a
> local Olds guy port them out fully, mill them .040-.050, and block off
> the other riser.
>
>   It's been a long time comming but looks like I'll be starting this bad
> boy in the next few weeks.  :)
>
> Ken

Sounds like a pretty potent engine!! I'd think you made a wise choice
with the intake. Let us know how it runs.

Daren

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 20:15:19 -0300
Subject: Super cars unltd.

Got a strange piece of mail from Supercars Unlimited. In the letter it
was claimed that one of their competitors(unnamed) had plagurized their
catalog. From the title banner to part descriptions and number! I'm
wondering who's to blame. Any ideas?

Danny

------------------------------

From: "bill " <lewman@mindpulse.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 23:35:41 -0300
Subject: Re: More Parts For Sale - Freon Replacement

There are direct replacements for the old Freon that have been advertised
and written about in the old cars publications.  Old Cars Weekly had an
article a while back.  They use the new R-134A and some oils to substitute
for the Freon.  I do not know anyone that has used them but supposedly they
are a direct replacement and you only have to change some fittings usually.
 The conversion cost is not supposed to be too bad.  I believe Shadetree
Mechanic also had a show on it and said the same things.

I have shown two references below.  Both relate to Pennzoil which is a
reputable company I hope.  Also, it lists where it can be done.

http://www.theautochannel.com:8080/mania/industry/mechanic/spring1996/cost.h
tml
http://www.pennzoil.com/products/frigc/default.htm

lewman@mindpulse.com

- ----------
> From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> To: Lewman
> Subject: Re: More Parts For Sale
> Date: Tuesday, June 03, 1997 11:53 AM
>
>
> At 11:03 AM 6/3/97 -0300, you wrote:
> >Dear Jim,
> >Well I'll be darn this thing really does work!!  *Smile*  Thanks for
> >getting back with me so soon.  Thanks for the Phone numbers also I will
> >give them a call!!  Also I seen a couple of e-mails floating around
> >about the AC... what is this R-34 or was it R... something... didn't
> >have to have a licsence to buy and install it.  Also I am needing a
> >place to send my radio and 8-track to for repair... got any
> >suggestions??  Also, do  you have any remote mirror cables, mine has
> >broke and the mirror can't be moved, do you have any of these??  We are
> >about 90% restored on this car and are trying to get the little things
> >taken care of now.
> >Thanks again for the prompt reply.
> >
> >Rosemary
> >1972 Olds 442
> >
> Rosemary,
>
>         Yes this place really works.  The freon your talking about is
> R-134A. It's the type found in all newer vehicles. You can do a
conversion
> of your present system by changing the hoses, fittings and get rid of all
> the olds style oil in your system. I haven't done any of these yet, so I
> can't say that I recommend it or not. As for the mirrors yes we have
them,
> but right now we're only selling them in sets. They run $100.00 a pair.
You
> can still get new ones of the drivers side but they cost $135.00 ea. Let
us
> know if your interested in a pair.
>
> Thanks,
> Jim Chermack
>

------------------------------

From: "Richard Rodriguez" <Inkdick@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 23:34:24 -0300
Subject: RE: More Parts For Sale

Hello! My name is Richard and I live in Texas.I have noticed you have alot of
what may help me to make my olds. look a little nicer. Can you maybe give me a
 location of yourself? I have a 1971 Delta88 Custom. I'm not as into it as
alot of the people I've read about here on this line. I do know that I have a
nice looking car! It needs some TLC but I have time...Plenty of that. Not
alot of money though... :(   I need some of the moldings. The chrome gauge
bezel interests me. Is that gonna fit on my car? At the moment I've been
having a problem with my car over heating. I have taken the radiator off of a
1976Delta Royal that I have in my possesion. This was my second Olds. (hit
and run) I have been scamming parts off of it to keep my 71 running. I also
changed out the water pump thinking that it would help. New thermostat..It
overheats just running it in the morning. I surely want to fix this problem!
In the mean time though i would be very interested in some of the stuff you
have been so kind to make available to ALL of us!! Thanx! ---- From:
oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca on behalf of James & Joanne Chermack Sent:
Monday, June 02, 1997 7:53 PM To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Subject: More
Parts For Sale

Hey All,

        Just got done sorting out a bunch of new parts.

70-75 Sport Steering Wheel (excellent cond)  $120.00 complete
71-72 Sport Mirrors (excellent cond)  $100.00 pr
70-71 F-85 Horn Button (cheap style wheel, excellent)  $20.00
72 Cutlass Supreme Side Moldings (excellent)  $110.00 set
68 Cutlass/442 RH Fender (nice, small ding)  $300.00
70-72 Convertible Top or Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switches  $50.00 ea
70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switch Bezels  $10.00 ea
68 Cutlass/442 Std Horn Button (black, nice)  $7.00
70-72 455 Engine Frame Mounts  $60.00 pr
72 Chrome Gauge Bezel (will fit 70 & 71 also, very good cond)  $30.00
68 Air Cleaner Stove Pipe (pipe only)  $15.00


Let me know if there's anything that interests you.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass Supreme SX W-32
72 442 (350)
86 NInety Eight
94 Cutlass Supreme
96 C-1500

------------------------------

From: John Oder <jaoder@navix.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 23:35:06 -0300
Subject: Jetting for a 3310 Holley

Hi All,

I have installed a Holley 3310 carb on my stock 455 W-32 and was hoping
to get some suggestions on where to start with primary and seconday
jetting, also any recommdations on what spring to use with the vaccum
secondies.  Thanks,

John Oder
70 Cutlass SX W-32

------------------------------

From: CRuper1@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 23:44:52 -0300
Subject: Hey Esko.....

Esko, i was just looking at Karl Aunan's webpage (nice set-up there Karl,
gotta start looking at all the links on there...) and noticed the picture of
your car (nice looking by the way), but also noticed the Irish Wolfhound in
the picture.  Is the dog yours?  My parents have one, named Henry who is
about 2-3 years old.  They are great looking, and of course, HUGE (the kids
in my daughter's first grade class were overwhelmed).

My compliments to the both of you (Karl, and esko).

Chris Ruper
http://members.aol.com/CRuper1/index.htm

------------------------------

From: Daren & Laurie <daren@revealed.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 23:12:56 -0300
Subject: Re: Work Bench Advice Wanted

william goodnight wrote:
>
> have just completed a 24x36' garage/shop.  After framing in Lav, I will have
> approx. 22' of back wall I want to dedicate to automotive workbench.
>
> 1) What is standard height and depth for a standard workbench top.

The height you feel comfortable working at.

> 2)  Have any ideas how to cover it for taking abuse?

Steel is the best but can be expensive. I've been thinking about putting
laminate (kitchen type) on mine.

> thanks!
>
> Bill Goodnight
> Goodnight & Associates, Inc.
> idaholc@primenet.com
> Boise, Idaho

Daren

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 23:58:46 -0300
Subject: Re: VIN plate, parts needed

Chris Brown Witt wrote:

 First, a question esp. to anyone who has a '68 W30... my VIN plate
seems
> to be attached in an unorthodox manner: regular pop rivets from underneath.
Not > the 'scalloped' pop rivets from above usually seen. So, does anyone
else's have > this feature, or has mine been the victim of an improper past? > 
>
-decklid for a 2-door '68 or '69

>

Chris,

I have personally NEVER seen a late 60's/early 70's Olds with the pop
rivets yours have.  However, that doesn't necessarily mean the car
doesn't deserve that VIN plate.  If the previous owner(s) had redone the
car in the past, then it MAY have been removed for cleaning/painting/
whatever.  On the other hand, consider this:  Back in the mid 80's there
was the "Muscle Car Boon!" where otherwise normal people could get a lot
more from their car if it were more desirable.  (W-30 vs. plain 442)
Buy the right parts, bolt them on, and whoops, don't forget the VIN
plate off the REAL W-30 out back rusting away.

 If the engine is original, check to see if the numbers match, and also
there are numbers stamped on the frame in  "various locations" according
to the assembly manuals.

But all this leads me to wonder why you would want a 69 deck lid for
your 68 when you know it won't fit.  Maybe you meant
doors/fenders/quarters???  I'll chalk it up as a slight oversight, since
I do that a lot myself.

Good Luck with the W-30.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 00:09:17 -0300
Subject: Re: Driveshaft length

On Tue, 3 Jun 1997 dedarnell@electro-matic.com wrote:

>
> I've done the 350/th350 swap to 455/th400.  Does anyone know how much to
> cut off the driveshaft, or do I have to measure from tailshaft to the rear?
MEasure, it's easier, and you'll need the T400 yoke.

> I read somewhere that the driveshaft with the rubber dampers in them are
> weak.  Is this true?  Does anyone have a driveshaft off of a big block
> cutlass that they want to sell(I live in SE Michigan)?  Or am I better off
> keeping mine and having it cut?
Big/Small block are the same, the tranny is the difference.  I have one
on my car I got off a friend that miracoulasly fit!  A shortening and
re-balincing should be under $100 easily, and can be done by yourself
reasonably easy if you want.  A welder, grinder, and hammer's all you
need (but duct-tape wouldn't hurt!)

If you do cut your own driveshaft, cut your original driveshaft on the
yoke end, shorten it, and weld in the new yoke, if it works, enjoy, if
not, you've wasted your time!

Enjoy the  rambling...(or delete it, your choice, don't be late)

...............self-promo sig file Version 2.2...............
Eric Aksomitis:
Virtual Junkyard: Current count -> 5 vehicles
Oldsmobile Index: Current Count -> 8 vehicles
http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/       mailto:aksomi@cs.uregina.ca
Last update: 970504
..............................................................

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 00:18:54 -0300
Subject: Re: Jetting for a 3310 Holley

John Oder wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I have installed a Holley 3310 carb on my stock 455 W-32 and was hoping
> to get some suggestions on where to start with primary and seconday
> jetting, also any recommdations on what spring to use with the vaccum
> secondies.  Thanks,
>
> John Oder
> 70 Cutlass SX W-32

John,

I have a 3310 on my 71 442.  Running headers, 2 1/2" exhaust, and mild
port work on the heads, and a Joe Mondello JM 20-22 cam, I messed around
with the jetting and other stuff until it was snappy, responsive, and
overall very decent running.

This is what I'm currently running:

Front jets: 70's
Rear jets: (I bought a rear metering block) 74's
shooter: 31
Power Valve: 8.5"
Pump shot cam: Green, position 1
Secondary spring: the one that came with the carb.  I tried the heavier
ones and it seems to have a detrimental effect.  Lighter ones produced a
bog.

The above combo works great with my engine set-up, and I'm sure you will
hear from countless others on this, but when that Rocket is sailing,
you  CANNOT feel the secondaries kick in, which is just what's supposed
to happen.  The engine is extremely responsive to throttle position, and
I'm satisfied with the outcome.  I believe in what Holley has stated all
along- Start with the "out-of-the-box" carb, bolt it on, and adjust from
there, making ONE change at a time to see if it helps or hinders.


Good Luck

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 00:26:37 -0300
Subject: Heat Pipe Filter Screen

I am looking for a heat pipe filter screen for my 69 H/O.  The assembly
manual says that the H/O was supposed to have this.  It is a little
conical shaped filter screen that rests in the top of the exhaust heat
pipe.  The air cleaner snorkle diverter valve flange sits on top of
this.  Anyone know where to get one?

Thanks,

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 00:39:48 -0300
Subject: Re: Michael Brady

Hi Mike
 No my Starfire hasn't been to a National Meet. Its hard to vend and have a
car to show. Thats why this year at Lansing I'm not vending, this will be a
vacation a real vacation. I'm taking the Starfire and my son will have his 71
Supreme Convert.


Everett   OCA 1961

------------------------------

From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 00:40:03 -0300
Subject: Re: Super stock 1

Hi Dave
  I have one SS1 14x6 wheel in the stuff I got fom Halls' If you are
interested e-mail me privately  ANTIQOLDS@AOL.COM

Everett

------------------------------

From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 00:40:06 -0300
Subject: Re: Tech Tip

Hi Doug
  Nice to see that tip, my son just bought a 92 Supreme convert and he was
asking what would be good to clean the top and here you are, thanks for the
tip



Everett

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 00:53:40 -0300
Subject: Re: Question for Charley, et al., on rear end gearing

At 07:24 PM 6/3/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Ok, here goes.  I have my '81 Cutlass with a slightly tired '77 350 (Olds.,
>of course) in it.  The car currently has 2.29 gears in it (as far as the axle
>code tells me), and I have a TH-350C in it also (torque lock-up).  I have
>recntly hold ahold of a set of gears (carrier, and all) which are marked
>15/41 (2.73's, right?) which were out of a ten bolt Buick Station Wagon, and
>I got them for free.  Now, I'm interested in putting them in my car, but I'd
>like to find out what's involved, and find out any helpful tips from others.

The big question here, of course, is *what* Buick station wagon you're
talking about. Is it a 1973 Electra wagon? A 1977 LeSabre? A 1983 Century? A
1992 Roadmaster? They would all use different gears, even though the cover
on the differential had ten bolts on it.

>First, will this swap work for me?  I'm not sure about the specifics of what
>my axle is any more than that 9ring size, axle clips, or whatever, etc.).

Your Cutlass has the 7.5" rear. I don't know if the '78-'87 Century wagons
used the same size ring-gear, but if they did then that 10-bolt would be
about the only one whose gears would work on your Cutlass.

[snip]
>Third, how hard is the swap?  Anything special to be done, or needs to be
>taken care of.  Is it best to just swap the carriers, or just gears?

heh... Just a few tools you need to do it right:

*Impact gun, for loosening and tightening the pinion nut
*Dial indicator, for setting gear backlash
*An inch/pound torque wrench
*Pinion depth guage (no, you won't find that one at Pep Boys...)

If you don't have these tools, you can buy a set of ring & pinion
installation tools for $150-$200, and an impact gun would run you around
$90-$120 for a cheap one (of course, that is assuming you have an air
compressor).

Now if you have or can borrow all the tools, the critical things to measure
are the pinion depth, pinion bearing preload, carrier side clearance, and
gear backlash. These are all outlined in the shop manual (which you should
refer to when doing this job).

So, first find out if the 10-bolt gear is the same size as yours, and then
decide if you want to be the one to use these tools to install it.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 00:53:47 -0300
Subject: Re: Super cars unltd.

At 07:15 PM 6/3/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Got a strange piece of mail from Supercars Unlimited. In the letter it
>was claimed that one of their competitors(unnamed) had plagurized their
>catalog. From the title banner to part descriptions and number! I'm
>wondering who's to blame. Any ideas?

??? You mean somebody reprinted Supercars Unlimited's catalog? Wouldn't that
just give them more business???
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 01:01:06 -0300
Subject: Re: Jetting for a 3310 Holley

>
> I have installed a Holley 3310 carb on my stock 455 W-32 and was hoping
> to get some suggestions on where to start with primary and seconday
> jetting, also any recommdations on what spring to use with the vaccum
> secondies.  Thanks,

Start with 72's in the front. Unless you have installed a metering block in
the back the jetting is harder to change. Holley makes different secondary
metering plates but it seems no one stocks them. If you install the 4160 to
4150 metering block converson try 78's in the back since it has no power
valve.
 The springs for the vacum secondary's depend a lot on the way your car is
set up. A high stall auto or 4 speed in a light car can use the short
yellow while a heavy car with a stock converter and high gears may need the
black spring. The purple works well in something that is somewhere in
between. If you plan to play with the springs spend a few $'s and get the
quick change kit. Use the spring that gives the smoothest acceleration. If
you feel the secondarys open you probably have too light a spring. When you
feel the sudden surge it is usually because it opened too fast hesisated
for a second then caught up feeling like it is really pulling hard.
 The squirters are also a good way to make it work better for a given
combination. If it leaves hard then hesitates go to smaller squirter. If it
hesitates then catches up and takes off go up a few sizes. You get the same
amount of fuel with either squirter but you get more at a time with the
bigger squirter. A smaller one gives you a longer shot. . Dont try to use
the accelarator pump to compensate for the secondarys opening too fast.
Holleys are usually pretty close for the average car right out of the box.
Be carefull about making more than one change at a time or you can get lost
and end up with it running worse than it did. Take notes of what each
change did and if it doesnt help  go the other way. Make sure everything
else is right (  spark advance, timeing, plug heat range, ect.) before
trying to change anything.
Hope this helps
Walter

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 01:16:12 -0300
Subject: RE: More Parts For Sale

At 11:34 PM 6/3/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Hello! My name is Richard and I live in Texas.I have noticed you have alot of
 >what may help me to make my olds. look a little nicer. Can you maybe give
me a >location of yourself? I have a 1971 Delta88 Custom. I'm not as into it
as alot >of the people I've read about here on this line. I do know that I
have a nice >looking car! It needs some TLC but I have time...Plenty of that.
Not alot of >money though... :(   I need some of the moldings. The chrome
gauge bezel >interests me. Is that gonna fit on my car? At the moment I've
been having a >problem with my car over heating. I have taken the radiator
off of a 1976Delta >Royal that I have in my possesion. This was my second
Olds. (hit and run) I >have been scamming parts off of it to keep my 71
running. I also changed out >the water pump thinking that it would help. New
thermostat..It overheats just >running it in the morning. I surely want to
fix this problem! In the mean time >though i would be very interested in some
of the stuff you have been so kind >to make available to ALL of us!! Thanx!
----

Richard,

        Hi and welcome to the list. I live in Virginia Beach VA. I really
enjoy helping others restore their Olds and finding parts for them. Let me
know which moldings you would be interested in and I'll see if they are in
good shape. Yes the gauge area of the dash will fit your car. It looks to be
in good shape. As for your over heating problem here are a few ideas. The
radiator you used out of your newer 88 may be smaller (less rows for
cooling). If it is then you should purchase a new large 3 row or a 4 row
radiator. Did you mix a 50/50 mix of anti-freeze and water? Also in the
older cars I prefer to use a 160 degree thermostat. Replace the radiator cap
with a new 15 lb. one. If all this fails to get your overheating problem
solved, then I would have the cooling system power flushed by a
professional. There isn't a whole lot more you could really do or replace in
the system. Another possibility is a bad head gasket. This would cause
combustion gases to be present in the radiator and make it overheat
extremely fast. A good shop will have a detector for Carbon Dioxide in the
cooling system. If you do there is only one alternative. Keep us informed of
your progress. Thanks for your very nice comments.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass Supreme SX W-32
72 442 (350)
86 Ninety Eight
94 Cutlass Supreme
96 C-1500

------------------------------

From: CRuper1@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 01:40:10 -0300
Subject: Meet on Sat. (was: Soylent Ocean Mist's Big Toe (out))

In a message dated 97-06-03 21:25:42 EDT, you write:

<< Fortunately for me Mr. Brown, Mr. Ruper and I already have a date with a
few
 salvage yards on Saturday. I am going to have to look at tires (short term
 fix). Note to CHRIS RUPER; I suggested to Dave (think he agrees) that we
 should wisit the other places before hitting A&B. There may be pricing
 advantages in the threat of ccompetition. >>

I haven't heard much else from you two.  Are you gonna be out early (like
9:00) so we can heard around?  I'm not sure how much I'll be tagging around,
but I will for a while, at least, gotta see when you'll be out, and how long
you stay, etc.

I did, BTW, look at that white Dynamic, to check the master cyl., and it was
different from your.  Rather than the "screw-on" type like yours, it had what
looked like a square container which was integral, and the cap looked like a
plug for a pipe (like as in black pipe, with a square nut on the top to
loosen it).  You'll have to look at it.

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

From: CRuper1@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 01:40:14 -0300
Subject: Re: Work Bench Advice Wanted

In a message dated 97-06-02 23:52:28 EDT, you write:

<< have just completed a 24x36' garage/shop.  After framing in Lav, I will
have
 approx. 22' of back wall I want to dedicate to automotive workbench.

 1) What is standard height and depth for a standard workbench top.

 2)  Have any ideas how to cover it for taking abuse?

 thanks!

 Bill Goodnight >>

When my father-in-law and I did the one in the garage at his place, we made
sure it wasn't going anywhere.  The garage is 24 ft. (as I remember) long,
and we did the bench along the whole back wall.  We used 4X4's as our main
supports in the front (every 6-8 ft., or so apart), and used 2X4's to connect
to the back (we nailed in to the studs in the wall) and used 2X6's to run
along the front of everything.  We made it 2 ft. wide, and used 3/4 in thick
plywood on the top (this thing will support anything, I've had AT LEAST
SEVERAL hundred pounds on top of it at one time, and it didn't budge.....).

When we did this, we also made it so there was a lower (floor height) shelf,
if you will, underneath.  Essentially we just nailed 2X4's to the inside of
the 4X4 main supports, and one along the back wall, and covered it with
plywood.  this leaves a nice little area in the front of the bench so that
when you stand right up to the bench, your toes will be under and overhang
(if you will), rather than standing away from the bench.  The reason we went
with 2 ft. wide should be pretty obvious (or it will be), 4X8 ft. sheets of
plywood, just cut in half at the lumber yard (they will "rip" it in half for
you).

The bench was made waist height, and I didn't cover, or do anything to the
top.  I figure I won't be abusing it so much that I need it, and if needed,
I'll replace the top with new sheets.

We have been very happy with this set-up, and I'm about to help build another
one at my parent's house soon.  Whatever you do, go for overkill slightly,
you'll be happier in the long run (like we did with the 3/4 in. plywood on
top, heavy duty).

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

From: dhamlett@mitec.net
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 02:09:41 -0300
Subject: 1966 Cutlass convertibile

Hi, looking for F and R bumpers and a "T" handle for console automatic
shifter for a 66 Cutlass.  Any ideas where I might find such items?

Dan Hamlett

------------------------------

From: Michael Brady <drolds19@starnetinc.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 02:42:46 -0300
Subject: Re: Michael Brady

Hello Everett, good for you!! I look forward to checking out your Star
in Lansing!! Do you have that list of NOS stuff for 61' full size yet?

 Take care
Michael Brady-OCA-NAOC-IVOC-Starfire/Jetstar 1 Chapter

------------------------------

From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 03:16:47 -0300
Subject: auto salvage yards in the south

I will be going from Lexington, Ky. to Panama City, Fla. the first of
July via Bowling Green, Ky, Nashville, Tn, Birmingham, Montgomery and
Dothan, Al and P.C., Fla.  Does anyone on the list know of any places I
could check on used sheet metal for 69 Cutlass S conv, 1970 Cutlass
Supreme conv and 1972 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop?  Although I have spent a
good bit of time in the B-ham area, I am not familiar with the older
salvage yards.  Any assistance would be appreciated.  If I am allowed to
keep a few dollars from the family on vacation, I might be able to
purchase a thing or two.  Thank you.

Don

------------------------------

From: mjones@dragon.gleep.com
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 04:27:10 -0300
Subject: oldsmobile-digest V1 ª706

OL><<< This message is part 4 of a previous message >>>

OL>From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
OL>Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 16:50:05 -0300
OL>Subject: Re: Olds 350 FUBAR?

OL>> I got home and checked the timing, I couldn't even see the mark!

OL>Are you sure this isn't pointing to a problem with timing?

It helps to time it correctly.  I was going hysterical because of the
pinging..  I checked it properly yesterday and it was around 19 at idle
(6-700rpm) so it is advanced a little bit.

OL>> (compression check was fine, all cylinders within 10psi of each other)
OL>> (vacuum check revealed ignition miss or a sticking valve)

OL>Good man! Going back to the timing, I think you need to establish that you
c OL>see what the engine is timed at. The timing guage has a hole in it for a
OL>timing/tuneup machine's magnetic pickup. This is the most accurate method
of OL>setting the timing. Unless you are lucky, only garages have these, but
it mi OL>be worth having it done to verify how close the timing pointer is,
and to se OL>the timing.

OL>Maybe adjust the timing until the balancer line shows on the guage. A trip
OL>up/down the driveway or around the block can't hurt if the adjustment makes
OL>run worse. I'm assuming no WOT blasts until it runs better! :)

After figuring out that I was infact running just a little bit advanced
(plugged all ports and timed it) I took some water and dribbled it down
the carb. primary bores to clean any carbon buildup on the pistons (if
there was any).  I was really careful and never sloshed it (don't want
to hydraulic a rod, ya know) and it hasn't pinged since.

Mike Jones
'78 Olds delta 88

P.S.  My exhaust leak, my father and I believe the crack in the felt
gasket could've gotten long enough to run to an intake runner.

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 06:08:54 -0300
Subject: Re: Work Bench Advice Wanted

> In a message dated 97-06-02 23:52:28 EDT, you write:
>
> << have just completed a 24x36' garage/shop.  After framing in Lav, I will
> have
>  approx. 22' of back wall I want to dedicate to automotive workbench.
>
>  1) What is standard height and depth for a standard workbench top.
>
>  2)  Have any ideas how to cover it for taking abuse?

One of the neater ways to cover a workbench I've seen is to use some
rubberized floor runner material. This is the stuff that comes in rolls
and is about 3-4 feet wide. You can even get it in colors to match your
car (sort of...) or the "decor" of your garage if you're so inclined.
Heck, if you're really into creativity I suppose you could inlay pieces of
other colors to make a rocket logo or whatever (for those who have too
much time on their hands!) It's mildly ribbed so stuff doesn't roll off as
easily, is cleanable, and even makes working on the bench a little
quieter. And of course it's easily replaced when the time comes.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Etzel Bobby <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 08:59:35 -0300
Subject: 2 Olds for sale

Here are two Olds for sale from Classifieds2000:

1964 Oldsmobile F85 CUTLASS CONV, 127K miles, $6,000, LIVERMORE, =
California Day: (510) 447-3391  Eve: (510) 447-3391  Mail: =
rmadden@wnet.net

 1941 Oldsmobile Ninety-Eight, 100K miles, $600, Fort Dodge, Iowa
  Day: (515) 573-5353  Eve: (515) 576-2387

If you'd like to see the items they found , use this link:

  http://www.classifieds2000.com/cgi-cls/Search.exe?58333+02-JUN-97


Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the....Past

------------------------------

From: Etzel Bobby <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 09:51:48 -0300
Subject: RE: Work Bench Advice Wanted

I build a workbench a few years back. Its height is about 48in X 6ft. I =
went to a local shop that builds kitchen tops and they had a big trash =
dumpester. They would put the ends and mistakes in it. They said I could =
have any thing I wanted in the trash. I found a lot of laminate tops =
about 3 ft wide. I used 2 for the top of the workbench. It has held up =
very well and is easy to clean up. I still have a few of the tops to make =
more workbench's.


Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the....Past
__________________________________________________________________________=
_____
From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca on Tue, Jun 3, 1997 11:15 PM
Subject: Re: Work Bench Advice Wanted
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

william goodnight wrote:
>
> have just completed a 24x36' garage/shop.  After framing in Lav, I will =
have
> approx. 22' of back wall I want to dedicate to automotive workbench.
>
> 1) What is standard height and depth for a standard workbench top.

The height you feel comfortable working at.

> 2)  Have any ideas how to cover it for taking abuse?

Steel is the best but can be expensive. I've been thinking about putting
laminate (kitchen type) on mine.

> thanks!
>
> Bill Goodnight
> Goodnight & Associates, Inc.
> idaholc@primenet.com
> Boise, Idaho

Daren


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Subject: Re: Work Bench Advice Wanted
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------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 01:45:09 -0300
Subject: 55 Olds Info

Sent this message without the guy's e-mail address.  Address any
suggestions, comments, etc. on the 55 Olds to the following gentleman.  He
is in dire need of Olds assistance and I know you guys have the information
he needs.

Do us proud.

Reply to:  Mkr1841@aol.com

------------------------------

From: pteubel@safety1st.com (Peter Teubel)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 10:12:45 -0300
Subject: [none]

     subscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

From: slick442@webtv.net (slick442)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 10:32:59 -0300
Subject: Re: More Parts For Sale

Dear Jim,

Thanks for the  response.  Who was it that sent the e-mail about
purchasing the R-134 as a kit for about $39.00  and where can it be
purchased at??

Anyone in Arkansas out there??  Did you know that the Petit Jean Antique
Car Swap Meet is going on the second weekend of June!!!!!  This is the
place to be!!!  They have EVERYTHING that a car enthusiast could want,
they have lots and lots of old parts, cars, junk cars, souped up cars,
muscle cars, I could go on and on.... We never miss this, and it is a
beautiful ride up there.  Go if you can, we will be there on Saturday..
This swap meet will go on Friday and Saturday.  Hope to see you there!!!

Rosemary
1972 Olds 442
Arkansas

------------------------------

From: slick442@webtv.net (slick442)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 10:35:02 -0300
Subject: Re: More Parts For Sale

Dear Jim,
On the mirrors, is this for the cable or the mirror?? I need the
cable...

Rosemary
1972 Olds 442
Arkansas

------------------------------

From: slick442@webtv.net (slick442)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 10:39:50 -0300
Subject: RE: More Parts For Sale

Dear Bobby,

Thanks for reply!!  On my radio, I understand it is 25 years old, a
little antique like me, it works when it wants too.  So I know that it
probably I wouldn't need a new radio, just maybe someone to repair or
maybe even just cleaned, is there a way that I could clean it myself??
I will e-mail that person and ask them about that radio tho...
Thanks!!!!

Rosemary
1972 Olds 442
Arkansas

------------------------------

From: slick442@webtv.net (slick442)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 10:53:37 -0300
Subject: Re: More Parts For Sale - Freon Replacement

Dear Bill,

Thanks for responding.  On the www.theautochannel.com, I couldn't click
on that.  I have the webtv and I can't get some of the  web because
certain parts of the web has to have Netscape.... I don't have that.
Got any other suggestions??  ((((UGH)))))!!!!

Rosemary
1972 Olds 442
Arkansas

------------------------------

From: Steven LaCrosse <lacrosse@frontiernet.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 11:07:40 -0300
Subject: VIN ª question

Can anyone give me some information on my VIN. the last six numbers are
290028? When was this built, is it early or late model year? Thank you
very much.
ps. This from a 1969 442 conv.

------------------------------

From: Etzel Bobby <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 13:09:45 -0300
Subject: RE: More Parts For Sale

Rosemary two of the most common problems with these radios are:

(1) The volume control is noisy or cuts on and off. This can be corrected =
by spraying a contact  cleaner on the control. The cleaner is available =
from Radio Shack. You will need to remove the cover on the radio to =
access the volume control. If this does not fix it, then the control will =
need to be replaced. Not something easy to do.

(2) The slider to select AM/FM causes the radio to cut on and off. If you =
move the slider a little the radio will play. You can use the contact =
cleaner to spray the switch also. You can then use a can of compressed =
air (available from Radio Shack) to spray the switch and to clean off =
light dust or dirt.

These radios are all transistor and IC's (no tubes) so any good radio =
repair shop should be able to repair them. The output transistor (DS-515) =
go bad and replacements are getting hard to find. They cost from $15 to =
$25 each. They should be able to do an alignment also if it is needed.  I =
have the alignment procedures and schematic for your radio( SAMs =
PhotoFact set) if you find a shop that needs them to repair your radio.

Make sure you only use 10 ohm speakers also (see FAQ) and comments from =
other members of this list.


Hope this is some help.

Bobby


70 442 Escape Back to the....Past



__________________________________________________________________________=
_____
From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca on Wed, Jun 4, 1997 9:52 AM
Subject: RE: More Parts For Sale
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

Dear Bobby,

Thanks for reply!!  On my radio, I understand it is 25 years old, a
little antique like me, it works when it wants too.  So I know that it
probably I wouldn't need a new radio, just maybe someone to repair or
maybe even just cleaned, is there a way that I could clean it myself??
I will e-mail that person and ask them about that radio tho...
Thanks!!!!

Rosemary
1972 Olds 442
Arkansas


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Date: Wed, 04 Jun 1997 10:39:50 -0300
From: slick442@webtv.net (slick442)
Subject: RE: More Parts For Sale
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From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 13:12:48 -0300
Subject: Re: Jetting for a 3310 Holley

On my ported and polished 455, I'm using ª71 in front and ª73 in rear with
a metering block replacing the metering plate.
cf


>Hi All,
>
>I have installed a Holley 3310 carb on my stock 455 W-32 and was hoping
>to get some suggestions on where to start with primary and seconday
>jetting, also any recommdations on what spring to use with the vaccum
>secondies.  Thanks,
>
>John Oder
>70 Cutlass SX W-32

------------------------------

From: Oldsparts@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 13:39:29 -0300
Subject: Re: air con bracket alignment

The reason the air con bracket bolt does not align is usually because soneone
has cut (milled) the heads.  If the intake is/was not cut to match, you will
develop this problem.  Hope this helps.  Steve Kenny   Brothers Automotive
Products   800-442-7278    www.oldsparts.com    oldsparts@aol.com

------------------------------

From: CRuper1@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 13:41:10 -0300
Subject: Re: Question for Charley, et al., on rear end gearing

In a message dated 97-06-04 02:21:17 EDT, you write:

<< At 07:24 PM 6/3/97 -0400, you wrote:
 >Ok, here goes.  I have my '81 Cutlass with a slightly tired '77 350 (Olds.,
 >of course) in it.  The car currently has 2.29 gears in it (as far as the
axle
 >code tells me), and I have a TH-350C in it also (torque lock-up).  I have
 >recntly hold ahold of a set of gears (carrier, and all) which are marked
 >15/41 (2.73's, right?) which were out of a ten bolt Buick Station Wagon,
and
 >I got them for free.  Now, I'm interested in putting them in my car, but
I'd
 >like to find out what's involved, and find out any helpful tips from
others.

 The big question here, of course, is *what* Buick station wagon you're
 talking about. Is it a 1973 Electra wagon? A 1977 LeSabre? A 1983 Century? A
 1992 Roadmaster? They would all use different gears, even though the cover
 on the differential had ten bolts on it. >>

Sorry about that, I forgot to say that as far as I remember him saying, it
was newer (early 80's).

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

From: CRuper1@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 13:44:47 -0300
Subject: Re: Question for Charley, et al., on rear end gearing

In a message dated 97-06-04 03:09:33 EDT, you write:

<< >Second, for Charley, and maybe others with similar set-ups, what kind of
 >mileage can I expect (I know Charley's had 2.73's in there, or was it
 >2.56's?).

 My 80 442 has a 350/TH-350 with 2.73's and I get 12-13mpg city and 14-17
 highway.  >>

Does this trans have the torque converter lock-up, or is it just a plain
TH-350?  The mileage you list isn't too bad (figuring in the fun factor....),
and the lock-up would help also.

Thanks,
Chris Ruper

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 01:18:07 -0300
Subject: Re: Soylent Ocean Mist's Big Toe (out)


> 3) How exactly is bolt pattern measured? I presume that it is a
> center-to-center measurement between bolts/bolt holes, but which bolts?
If you drew a circle around all the bolts the diamater of the circle would
be the size of the bolt pattern.

------------------------------

From: Oldsparts@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 14:19:21 -0300
Subject: Re: 69 H/O Cam

Mike-Beware the reproduction camshafts that come without a cam card.  In
doing restorations it has come to our attention that many of the
"reproduction" cams do not meet factory specs.  If you ask for a cam card
from a supplier and get a response like "it's a factory replacement, just
install it"  your radar should go off!   I'm not saying you can't find one, I
am just suggesting that if you want to be sure you paid for and recieved the
"correct Spec" cam, use a dial indicator and degree wheel to check the specs
when you install it.  Hope this helps.  Steve Kenny   Brothers Automotive
Products  800-442-7278 (PART)   www.Oldsparts.com

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 14:31:47 -0300
Subject: Re: 69 H/O Cam

Oldsparts@aol.com wrote:
>
> Mike-Beware the reproduction camshafts that come without a cam card.  In
> doing restorations it has come to our attention that many of the
> "reproduction" cams do not meet factory specs.

   I'm not saying you can't find one, I
> am just suggesting that if you want to be sure you paid for and recieved the
> "correct Spec" cam, use a dial indicator and degree wheel to check the specs
> when you install it.  Hope this helps.  Steve Kenny   Brothers Automotive
> Products  800-442-7278 (PART)   www.Oldsparts.com

Steve,

Thanks for the heads up.  The guy who sold it to me said it comes with
the "cam card", and I don't think he would be jerkin' my chain.  Anyway,
if I have any doubts, I'll just send it back.  I will definitely be
degreeing it in as a precaution anyway.  I don't know if these so-called
"factory replacement" cams are on the same base circle as the actual
factory cam either, but I'll check that out too.

Thanks for your concerns,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 14:41:14 -0300
Subject: Re: VIN ª question

Steven LaCrosse wrote:
>
> Can anyone give me some information on my VIN. the last six numbers are
> 290028? When was this built, is it early or late model year? Thank you
> very much.
> ps. This from a 1969 442 conv.

Sorry, we'll need more info than what you gave.  The last six numbers
started with 100001 so it's hard to say when it was built.  To find this
out, look on the cowl tag under the hood.  There's a lot of info there.
If you provide the cowl tag info too, members on the list can definitely
tell you what you have as far as body/trim color, buckets, etc.  There
is a number/letter code in the left lower corner area, an example:  03D
which means 03=March, D=4th week.  Last week of March.  The letter code
in the middle of the VIN will show where it was made.  M=Lansing, MI,
for example.  Assuming your car was built in Lansing, your VIN would
read 344679M290028.  3=Olds, 4467=442 conv., 9=69 model year.

I hope this helps.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: Etzel Bobby <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 14:47:09 -0300
Subject: RE: 69 H/O Cam

Hey Steve,

Are you new to the list, I dont think I have seen your name here befor. =
If so "Welcome". I see you work for (own???) Brothers. You should be able =
to provide a lot of information to the list. The members on this list and =
myself need a lot of information and parts, to restore our Olds. Anyway, =
I hope you enjoy the information here and please fill us in what cars you =
have.


Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the....Past

__________________________________________________________________________=
_____
From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca on Wed, Jun 4, 1997 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: 69 H/O Cam
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

Mike-Beware the reproduction camshafts that come without a cam card.  In
doing restorations it has come to our attention that many of the
"reproduction" cams do not meet factory specs.  If you ask for a cam card
from a supplier and get a response like "it's a factory replacement, just
install it"  your radar should go off!   I'm not saying you can't find =
one, I
am just suggesting that if you want to be sure you paid for and recieved =
the
"correct Spec" cam, use a dial indicator and degree wheel to check the =
specs
when you install it.  Hope this helps.  Steve Kenny   Brothers Automotive
Products  800-442-7278 (PART)   www.Oldsparts.com


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Date: Wed, 04 Jun 1997 14:19:21 -0300
From: Oldsparts@aol.com
Subject: Re: 69 H/O Cam
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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª707
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