
oldsmobile-digest        Sunday, July 13 1997        Volume 01 : Number 747



Re: The Wife
Hey, I wan' a hood!
Re: What is the correct thermostat temp?
Re: Hey, I wan' a hood!
Re: Hey, I wan' a hood!
Re: Headers
help: sputtering engine
Re: Hey, I wan' a hood!
oldsmobile-digest V1 #746
UNBOUNCE: sputtering engine 
69 Cutlass Front Bumper
Re: UNBOUNCE: sputtering engine
Re: water pump stud bolts
Re: cam profiles
header tricks
Story Olds
Help!  Tree sap
junkyard find
UNBOUNCE: tree sap
Re: water pump stud bolts
403 Head-bolt installation tips
Re-introduction
Re: cam profiles
RE: 69 Cutlass Front Bumper
Re: cam profiles
Non-Olds - But What's It Worth?
More Car-buying Adventures...
Re: cam profiles
Re: Re-introduction
Re: dash pads
w30 bdy parts
New Carb = No Power ?
Re: UNBOUNCE: sputtering engine 

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Jul 1997 11:40:29 -0500
From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Subject: Re: The Wife

- ----------
> She wrote:
> > 
> > I'd rather pay whatever the cost is to get it fixed than listen to him 
> > bitch at me 'cause he had to actually think about me for a change!
> 
> Why do I get the feeling that he's really gonna be paying for this?
> 
> And...  we're off!
> 
>     66 Toro 
> The /\   /\ and Mike


Yeah, you're off Mike :)).  I guess that I am one of the lucky ones. I am
computer literate and we don't have passwords.   My husband always works on
my car first. He does his best to see to it that I have a dependable,
comfortable car. He never wants me stranded on the side of the road and for
24yrs I never have been. I know that I am not the only lucky one.  He even
lets me race the car while he is the 'crew chief'. 

Mary Jones
'66 Delta 88 convertable (my daily driver)
'56 chevy (race car)

 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Jul 1997 13:11:56 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Hey, I wan' a hood!

Hey gang,


	Anybody know if I can get a Cowl Induction/OAI/somethin-with-scoops
hood that will fit my 73 Cutlass? I want to put a really cool looking
hood on there, but I don't know of any from 73. It doesn't have to be
functional, just look good. I'm looking for anything that requires no
fabrication to fit my car. Can anybody help me out here? Did they even
make any different hoods in 73? How 'bout earlier years, will any of
those fit? It doesn't even have to be Olds **SMACK** (owww! okay! It's
preferable) just as long as it will fit.


- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
Ev_Corp Main Admin.
delta_v plug G/S/O Admin.
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Jul 1997 10:23:00 -0700
From: Brad Bowles <wolds@napanet.net>
Subject: Re: What is the correct thermostat temp?

Jar Lyons wrote:
> 
> After all the attention given to overheating, I'm still
> unsure about the following.
> 
> What is the correct temperature rating for a given engine?
> 
> Does it depend on the engine and extras, like a/c?
> 
> I have a 455 w/ac that I recently put a 190 temp t-stat on
> while I was doing the pump.
> 
> This helped the operating temp significantly, but I've noticed
> it still can get up as near as 220 if it's sitting idling.
> 
> Would I be better off with a 160?  Should I get a high-flow 190?
> 
> Also, I noticed a significant climb in temp (~30 degrees)
> after I shut the engine down.  Is this really an indication
> that the entire engine temp goes up that much, or is it
> just the water jacket where the sensor is?
> 
> --
> Have you backed up your data today?
> Atrieva Internet Backup Service http://www.atrieva.com
> 
> Jar Lyons
> jarl@atrieva.com
> Atrieva Corporation  (www.atrieva.com)
> 600 University Street, Suite 911
> Seattle, WA  98101
> Voice: (206) 749-2914,
> Fax:   (206) 382-6615
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
>                 1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass Convertible
>                        455 Rocket Powered
>                 'How fast do you want to go today?'
> ------------------------------------------------------------------

	To fix/improve the flow and cooling of a radatior, drill little holes
in the flat ring part of the thermostat.  This will let more coolant
flow through.
Brad
70 442

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Jul 1997 13:39:15 -0400
From: "MROTHE" <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Hey, I wan' a hood!

Did they even make any different hoods in 73? How 'bout earlier years, will
any of
those fit? It doesn't even have to be Olds **SMACK** (owww! okay! It's
preferable) just as long as it will fit.

Matt,

The only "other" hood that I am aware of that will positively fit is a
louvered hood off a 73 442.  I always thought these were kinda cool
looking, with the louvers right in the center of the hood.  But, I'm not
sure where you can find one.  They're pretty rare to find just laying
around.  

Hope this enlightens you some to make your restoration easier.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Jul 1997 11:47:44
From: Chris Matthes <cdogg73@elknet.net>
Subject: Re: Hey, I wan' a hood!

At 01:39 PM 7/12/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Did they even make any different hoods in 73? How 'bout earlier years, will
>any of
>those fit? It doesn't even have to be Olds **SMACK** (owww! okay! It's
>preferable) just as long as it will fit.
>
>Matt,
>
>The only "other" hood that I am aware of that will positively fit is a
>louvered hood off a 73 442.  I always thought these were kinda cool
>looking, with the louvers right in the center of the hood.  But, I'm not
>sure where you can find one.  They're pretty rare to find just laying
>around.  
>
>Hope this enlightens you some to make your restoration easier.
>
>Mike Rothe
>
Matt-

There were 3 hoods offered in 73.  One is just plain.  the second, and the
best looking was a rallye hood, which has a pair of chrome trimmed false
louvers in it. and the 442 hood which has 4 huge louvers in it which looks
really stupid in my opinion.  I saw one of these for sale at a swap meet
last month for $35.  it was in great shape and rust free.  i once saw an ad
for a place in California that made fiberglass hoods for our cars, but i
dont remember where i saw it. I think a plain 73 hood with 70-72 stlye cowl
induction hood scoops would look damn smooth, but that's just a dream of mine.

Chris Matthes
73 Cutlass(sitting in my driveway waiting for parts) 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Jul 1997 15:26:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: PaulP34167@aol.com
Subject: Re: Headers

In a message dated 97-07-11 20:52:17 EDT, you write:

> You mentioned in your last email that you thought that there were 
>  some other companies that make headers that I can use. I have checked 
>  all the Catalogs and called people like Sanders and Headers by ED and 
>  they all say that they do not make them.Can you give me a lead to 
>  follow or something. It would be appreciated. 
>  
>  Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>

Flow Tech
602-966-1511
flowtech@dancris.com

This company has headers for Oldss.  Can't tell you how they fit, havn't
tried them on yet.  I bought this set for $100.  One good thing about these
is that they have an extra-thick flange.

Paul Pate
70 Cutlass S
84 Camaro LG4

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Jul 1997 19:20:27 +0100
From: "Bruce Marshall" <bruce@shore.net>
Subject: help: sputtering engine

I have a '41 Olds, 6 cylinder engine with manual transmission.

Here's the problem.  At idle the engine runs smoothly but once I "step on
it" it misfires under load.  The problem is worse once the engine is warmed
up (hot) 
and I'm going along at say, 40 mph, and I give it the gas.

I have:	new points set at .020 per spec
		new condenser
		new rotor
		new plugs (AC 44 per spec and gapped correctly)
		new wires (real wires...not carbon)
		new cap
		new ignition coil
		rebuilt generator (for what that's worth)
		new battery

Also, the engine has just be totally rebuilt with new piston, rings, valve
seats, new gaskets, crank rebuild, rebuilt camshaft etc, etc.

About the only thing that wasn't touched was the carburetor.  Does this
sound like it might be an accelerator pump problem?

No vacuum leaks that I can hear.

Wish I could make it to Lansing.  I went for the 90th anniversary and had
fun on the trip with my 10 year old son.  It was an "excellent adventure"
out and back to Boston.  It damn near killed the car!  We are just now
getting it back on the road after a number of years in storage.

Bruce Marshall
NAOC #151
'41 Olds 66

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Jul 1997 15:34:21 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Hey, I wan' a hood!

Chris Matthes wrote:
> 
> At 01:39 PM 7/12/97 -0400, you wrote:
> >Did they even make any different hoods in 73? How 'bout earlier years, will
> >any of
> >those fit? It doesn't even have to be Olds **SMACK** (owww! okay! It's
> >preferable) just as long as it will fit.
> >
> >Matt,
> >
> >The only "other" hood that I am aware of that will positively fit is a
> >louvered hood off a 73 442.  I always thought these were kinda cool
> >looking, with the louvers right in the center of the hood.  But, I'm not
> >sure where you can find one.  They're pretty rare to find just laying
> >around.
> >
> >Hope this enlightens you some to make your restoration easier.
> >
> >Mike Rothe
> >
> Matt-
> the second, and the
> best looking was a rallye hood, which has a pair of chrome trimmed false
> louvers in it. and the 442 hood which has 4 huge louvers in it which looks
> really stupid in my opinion.

Cool! Anybody here have one of these that I might purchase or know where
I can get one (in decent shape)?

- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
Ev_Corp Main Admin.
delta_v plug G/S/O Admin.
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: 12 Jul 1997 12:06:40 PST
From: mjones@dragon.gleep.com
Subject: oldsmobile-digest V1 #746

OL>could be caused by a stuck lifter, a burned valve (let's hope not), and
OL>worn pedestals/rockers, bent pushrods, etc.  I was wondering what was
OL>the most common part to replace in the valvetrain..  Engine has 81k on
OL>it, burns a quart of oil every 3000 miles, has an edelbrock performer
OL>manifold/stock Q-jet, and the bottom end has bever been apart.

OL>- --my reply--
OL>Well, you really have to tear into it to diagnose. I will say this: the "goo
OL>running" 350 in the recent 72 parts car... had hella oil carbon buildup in o
OL>cylinder. Why? Because, bee whiz, BOTH lifters had come apart, spilt their
OL>guts, and the p'rods were sitting way down in the bottom of the plunger, not
OL>doing much. One had gone sideways on the rocker, broke the pedestal off.
OL>  Pull the RACovers. Start motor, ck for proper valve action. Go from there.
OL>Might have to pull the intake to ck all lifters. Personally if I had the int
OL>off, all lifters would be replaced, only $35 or so a set at Engine Service
OL>Group. Not the 1st time I've seen a lifter apart in the engine... [Sh]It
OL>happens. Be sure to clean out your heads' oil return holes while you have th
OL>RACovers off.
OL>- --
OL>Chris  B. Witt

Okay, I'll probably do that after I get it diagnostic checked (it's also
having ignition problems, I'll probably need to replace my distributor
er something) this afternoon, but first thing I gotta do is fix the
xurgning at startup, chainging the fuel filter.

Mike Jones
'78 88



To ALL: BTW, I'm sorry for the little bandwidth in the beginning of my
message, I have to erase lines one-at-a-time in my msg. editor and
thought I had already erased them.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Jul 1997 17:12:55 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: sputtering engine 

Can't use the "H*ELP" word in subject lines or the first few lines of 
messages, folks...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Bruce Marshall" <bruce@shore.net>
Subject: sputtering engine

I have a '41 Olds, 6 cylinder engine with manual transmission.

Here's the problem.  At idle the engine runs smoothly but once I "step on
it" it misfires under load.  The problem is worse once the engine is warmed
up (hot) 
and I'm going along at say, 40 mph, and I give it the gas.

I have:	new points set at .020 per spec
		new condenser
		new rotor
		new plugs (AC 44 per spec and gapped correctly)
		new wires (real wires...not carbon)
		new cap
		new ignition coil
		rebuilt generator (for what that's worth)
		new battery

Also, the engine has just be totally rebuilt with new piston, rings, valve
seats, new gaskets, crank rebuild, rebuilt camshaft etc, etc.

About the only thing that wasn't touched was the carburetor.  Does this
sound like it might be an accelerator pump problem?

No vacuum leaks that I can hear.

Wish I could make it to Lansing.  I went for the 90th anniversary and had
fun on the trip with my 10 year old son.  It was an "excellent adventure"
out and back to Boston.  It damn near killed the car!  We are just now
getting it back on the road after a number of years in storage.

Bruce Marshall
NAOC #151
'41 Olds 66

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Jul 1997 15:13:19 -0500
From: katana72@juno.com (Rob T)
Subject: 69 Cutlass Front Bumper

A friend of mine inadvertently got a 69 front bumper for his 70 Cutlass.
The bumper is in almost perfect condition and he would like to sell it,
if possible. He would accept any reasonable offer on this bumper. In
addition, I have a 70 front bumperin good core condition. Mine needs
rechroming, but there are no dents or rust through spots in/on it. If
anybody is interested in either of these, drop me a line.

Rob
Katana72          "It's NOT your Daddy's Oldsmobile !!!!!    Hastings, MN

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Jul 1997 15:11:03 -0700
From: Brad Bowles <wolds@napanet.net>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: sputtering engine

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
> 
> Can't use the "H*ELP" word in subject lines or the first few lines of
> messages, folks...
> 
> Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
> 
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From:   "Bruce Marshall" <bruce@shore.net>
> Subject: sputtering engine
> 
> I have a '41 Olds, 6 cylinder engine with manual transmission.
> 
> Here's the problem.  At idle the engine runs smoothly but once I "step on
> it" it misfires under load.  The problem is worse once the engine is warmed
> up (hot)
> and I'm going along at say, 40 mph, and I give it the gas.
> 
> I have: new points set at .020 per spec
>                 new condenser
>                 new rotor
>                 new plugs (AC 44 per spec and gapped correctly)
>                 new wires (real wires...not carbon)
>                 new cap
>                 new ignition coil
>                 rebuilt generator (for what that's worth)
>                 new battery
> 
> Also, the engine has just be totally rebuilt with new piston, rings, valve
> seats, new gaskets, crank rebuild, rebuilt camshaft etc, etc.
> 
> About the only thing that wasn't touched was the carburetor.  Does this
> sound like it might be an accelerator pump problem?
> 
> No vacuum leaks that I can hear.
> 
> Wish I could make it to Lansing.  I went for the 90th anniversary and had
> fun on the trip with my 10 year old son.  It was an "excellent adventure"
> out and back to Boston.  It damn near killed the car!  We are just now
> getting it back on the road after a number of years in storage.
> 
> Bruce Marshall
> NAOC #151
> '41 Olds 66

	Try the vacume advance on the distributor.  I had the same problem, to
later find out there was a small hole in the vaccume advance thing. 
	After reading what year the car is, does it have a vaccume advance on
it?  
oh well
Brad
70 442

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Jul 1997 19:12:47 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: water pump stud bolts

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
> 
> On Fri, 11 Jul 1997, Jim Helle wrote:
> > The guy that owned my cutlass prior changed the clutch fan and put this
> > put this strieght drive fan on. I sound like a jet plane just about to
> > take off. He did leave the clutch fan in the trunk. The only problem is
> > noone knows (in the parts houses I have checked, thier book don't go
> > back that far) the size and length of the stud that goes into the water
> > pump and back into the fan base. Someone out there does know the correct
> > answer, rite?
> 
> I got the studs and nuts for this from my friendly Olds dealer. I forget
> the spec but they have two types of threads on them, one fine, one not so
> fine.
> 

I recently added a clutch fan to mine and I used 5/16 x 1-1/4" double
end studs.  One side is fine thread and the other is coarse thread. 
Available at any auto parts store.

- -- 
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Jul 1997 16:43:56 -0000
From: "dayc" <dayc@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: cam profiles

Does anyone now where to get the 400165 W-34 grind cam?

Corey D
dayc@ix.netcom.com
1970 Cutlass S 455
 ----
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Date: Saturday, July 12, 1997 1:33 PM
Subject: Re: cam profiles

> > Does anyone know the specific cam profiles of W-30 MT, W-31 MT, and
'70
> > Toro cams, including lobe separation and overlap?  I just got a dyno
> > program and this information is necessary.  Also, is there a way to
> figure
> > out the overlap of a cam if you know the duration and lobe centers?

You may have already seen this from the FAQ:

Year Part #    Ovlp Duration  Lift      Application
                    Int./Exh. Int./Exh.

1970 393859    58   286/286   .472/.472 350 4BC ex. AT, OAI, hi-perf
     400165    57   285/287   .472/.472 4257, 67, 4400 AT, Toro W-34
     402486    48   262/274   .440/.440 455 Toro ex. W-34
     402569    108  328/328   .475/.475 455 4400 ST OAI (W-30)
     406768    68   294/296   .472/.472 455 4400 ST ex. OAI
     402194    82   308/308   .474/.474 350 W-31 OAI

Note: Overlap in degrees
Note: Olds rates duration at zero lift, most cam mfrs. rate duration
at .050 lift

ST=standard trans   AT=automatic trans  2BC/4BC: 2 or 4 barrel carb


Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Jul 1997 20:38:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: header tricks

On the installation of headers:
1- it's not strictly necessary to heat the metal before "adjusting" it with
your BFH. 2- My brother & I discovered a real handy trick for installing the
headers into the 78 Cutlass race car... they kept trying to fall out of place
even with two of us wrestling with them... Neat Trick: slot the rearmost hole
either straight back or down or in between. Loctite a high-quality steel stud
into the corresponding hole. Put a nut on the stud loosely. Now you can easilt
inser the header from below, hang it on the stud, and position it for the
installation fo the other bolts. The nut, though requiring a rather unwieldly
9/16" wrench, is accessable. 3- I like to make the dipstick guide tube more
easily removeable, not everyone has my handy dandy damage free guide tube
extractor! For details, email me. 'Cause, you know, you have to remove &
install that dude every time the header or engine has to come out...  4- I
bought Cyclone headers for my 67 Cutlass wayback in about 1980. Technically,
they were said to be for "68-72" Cutlass with the SB motor. I figured, hey, how
different can a 67 & 68 be? Well, the LH unit would NOT go into place. It
seemed to fit just fine except that it refused to go fwd far enough by about
1". Being the resourceful type [i.e. Cheap] and having just bought a torch
recently, I removed the offending tube, bought a couple of similar diameter
very curved pipes at the local parts store for bend stock, and rerouted the
tube. This involved cutting another tube, joining the 1st to that, and routing
the second tube to the latter part of the first severed one. About 50 engine
pulls/ installs later as test fits progressed [no access from underneath!], it
was a success. Lotta labor. Sold that header at a swap meet a while back for
some ridiculously low figure like $5. But, I made it work.

- --
Chris  B. Witt
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Jul 1997 20:42:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Story Olds

What ever happened to Story Oldsmobile.  I was told they were the
largest Oldsmobile dealer in the Country.
Paul Hartlieb

Yeah, that must be the name I could not recall. Late night typing...

- --
Chris  B. Witt
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Jul 1997 21:53:54 -0400
From: dk0009@epfl2.epflbalto.org (Douglas Kitchener)
Subject: Help!  Tree sap

Dudes-

I need some hep!  Left the car uncovered for a couple daze and when I washed it 
this afternoon, there was a big blup of pine tree sap right smack in the middle 
of the decklid!  Arrgh!

Anybody know any trix to get it off?  Haven't tried anything yet, don't want to 
mess up the paint!  It's still gooey, of course...

TIA-

Doug Kitchener
dk0009@mail.pratt.lib.md.us

PS, Olds list folks, please email me privately or cc me, I'm not currently 
s*bscribed, thanx again.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Jul 1997 21:28:16 -0500
From: "James L. Smith" <floydfan@wiltel.net>
Subject: junkyard find

While out looking for a set of .040 over pistons for my 400 today I found a
real rare set of JAHN'S .100 overs for a 400. I don't think that the Yard
Owner will ever find a local buyer for them, unless I buy them for the
future. Any interested listers out there can E me or respond via the
list.(didn't find the .040's I needed :-(

Before I zap this off- a couple of questions:(1) I'm finishing up the A/F
suspension mod and I need to know what kind of master to use w/ the discs in
a non-power brake setup. (2) Is the bolt pattern for the 90's cutlass frnt
whl drv(16")rims and the SSI the same. I really need a set of rims (15"or
16")and love the 2-door cutlass star design. The rocket in the center cap
ain't too shabby either!! 


Jim Smith
65 442

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Jul 1997 23:41:47 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: tree sap

Another H*LP* bounce... forwarding.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	dk0009@epfl2.epflbalto.org (Douglas Kitchener)
To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca, toro@armchair.mb.ca
Subject: Tree sap

Dudes-

I need some hep!  Left the car uncovered for a couple daze and when I washed it 
this afternoon, there was a big blup of pine tree sap right smack in the middle 
of the decklid!  Arrgh!

Anybody know any trix to get it off?  Haven't tried anything yet, don't want to 
mess up the paint!  It's still gooey, of course...

TIA-

Doug Kitchener
dk0009@mail.pratt.lib.md.us

PS, Olds list folks, please email me privately or cc me, I'm not currently 
s*bscribed, thanx again.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Jul 1997 23:43:59 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: water pump stud bolts

On Sat, 12 Jul 1997, Kurt Heinrich wrote:
> 
> I recently added a clutch fan to mine and I used 5/16 x 1-1/4" double
> end studs.  One side is fine thread and the other is coarse thread. 
> Available at any auto parts store.

While poking around my friend Brian's garage tonight I found a set of 
these on the shelf. They are a "H*LP!" brand part and come in a little 
blister pack. The size Kurt quoted is correct. 

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Jul 1997 23:08:00 -0400
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: 403 Head-bolt installation tips

Got the 403 closed up today after changing the head gasket, and it looks
like it's all better now. I got through the job and only broke *one* tool,
which is some kind of record. So here's what I learned from this breakage:

If you're going to be installing the ARP 1/2" head bolts on an Olds motor,
try to use an *impact* socket on the end of the torque wrench. I found out
that my trusty 6-point 9/16" socket would only get to about 120ft/lbs (spec
is 130 ft/lbs, w/oiled threads) before it self distructed. Not trusting the
remaining 12-point 9/16" socket I had, the only alternative left was to raid
the tool box, where I came across the impact socket that I should have been
using in the first place. A regular socket probably has enough strength to
hold up to the factory-sized 13/16" head bolts, but 130 ft/lbs is a *lot* of
turning force on that little socket I broke.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Jul 1997 23:18:16 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Re-introduction

It finally occured to me that a few folks are newer here and don't know me yet.
I joined the list as soon as I learned of it in JWO. When I first became a
netter in about '94? there was no such list, try as I might to find one. Best I
could do was an Autos-L list, which later became dysfunctional, so I quit, and
the Planes, Trains, Autos forum at a bbs known as whip.isca.uiowa.edu. Telnet
there if you wish. Anyhow, the names there have to start with a letter, so
"442" was out. "FourFourTwo"was taken, and "W30" seemed too... obscure. Just
when I was about to give up and use a lame name, it occurred to me that I was a
scientist and into the rocket cars... Thus the handle Rocket Scientist. Spurns
a few interesting conversations too.

  Had an Olds since 1976, when I got a 64 Cutlass with the 330, 290 hp 4V motor
to replace an anemic F*rd '62 Failane "Sport Coupe" [NOT!]. Real tire-burner
with that Jetaway, 60 mph in 1st gear! Drum brakes! Killed by a bad radiator.
Sent it off to the boneyard with less rust than what I now keep. :-(
  Currently the stable of "real" ars includes the sig file 3, as well as
drivers Ford truck, Jeep CJ7, and Dodge Caravan. No Blowties. I confess I do
have one Ch*vy 350 motor, an old truck motor, might find a use for it someday.
  I have about 40 parts cars as well. My brother has about 100 cars, but he
branches out to all brands, and many are just scrap metal awaiting the day the
crusher becomes economically viable to visit.
  Also, I have spent a bit of time in the university machine shop, and made a
few items like main cap girdles and chro-mo oil pump drive rods. I invented and
made a damage-free dipstick guide tube extractor. Manual recommendation is to
grip it with Vice-Grips and beat it out. Imagine what that does to the tube.
For a list of RS parts & services, you may email me at the usual address. I
need to take inventory, get a few more recent used parts listed... Mainly
non-rust-prone items like motors, heads, intakes,  etc. I have heads from A
thru J except thre ultra-rare D, F, H units, any of those are not for sale. SB
heads from #1 thru #7a- I don't even mess with #8 heads though I do have a
couple from other acquisitions. 330 engines & forged SB cranks, etc.

   I have some engine-building experience, built a race mtor last year. A 425
that shaved a full second off the 78 Cutlass' times, and it USED to run a '69
Toronado 455 with big-valve C heads, about as good as it gets. Heck, the STOCK,
untouched, 112K mile old 66 Toro 425 motor I let them borrow did almost as well.
That's w/o their Edelbrok intake, Holley carb, big cam, etc.

  Collecting info began in CA whilst getting the MS degree at UCDavis. Bought
my 68 442 in Sacramento. Began boneyarding, finding jewels for cheap. Recording
head ID, block ID's, etc. Wish I'd have known about hemming's, OCA, and the "by
the Numbers" book back then. Saw an SX from some student in Davis go to the
local yard. Didn't even occur to me that the bumper was desireable. I did get a
dual-gate shifter out of that car I think... took it up to the counter... "what
is it?" queries the counter guy. I spy the price sheet on the wall... "Uhm,
a... shifter!" says I. He peruses the list... "$10" he states. For the shifter,
cable, console, brackets, and a pail fulla smaller stuff they don't even care
about. Heh. Those were the days.

  Degreed engineer, twice, and nearly got a Ph.D. before the funding ran out.
Currently taking a sabbatical if you will, working as a *gasp* mechanic at a
small shop right by the Lansing airport. Right behind the Airport Tavern... and
seeking real employment elsewhere. Been neat learning all about newer cars, but
after a while it's just the same crud, and pay's not even livable. Expect to
phinish the phud later this year, if need be. However, if the right offer comes
along before then... I feel the Univ. kinda screwed me, so don't feel
particularly inclined to do them any favors anymore.
    Brother told me of a place that recently lost an engineer and a machinist,
both of which I can do... still investigating, but from what I see, it'd be a
match made in heaven! Naturally, on the way there to inquire Friday, I get a
flat tire from a huge piece of metal at the scrap yard... which I regularly
visit since I found an H head in the pile of scrap motors one day! No spare
in the truck! :-(  Only to find out after getting up-n-running again that they
were closed for the day!

  Spent the day at the Big Water today- Lake Michigan. A much-needed rest, and
fun w/ the kids. Now, back to the Toronado and parting out work!

- --
Chris  B. Witt
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Jul 1997 20:18:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Stanish <stanishj@svpal.org>
Subject: Re: cam profiles

Try Supercars Unlimited, Portland, OR, (503) 244-8249

Jeff Stanish, '69, '75, '79 H/Os

On Sat, 12 Jul 1997, dayc wrote:

> Does anyone now where to get the 400165 W-34 grind cam?
> 
> Corey D
> dayc@ix.netcom.com
> 1970 Cutlass S 455
>  ----
> From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Date: Saturday, July 12, 1997 1:33 PM
> Subject: Re: cam profiles
> 
> > > Does anyone know the specific cam profiles of W-30 MT, W-31 MT, and
> '70
> > > Toro cams, including lobe separation and overlap?  I just got a dyno
> > > program and this information is necessary.  Also, is there a way to
> > figure
> > > out the overlap of a cam if you know the duration and lobe centers?
> 
> You may have already seen this from the FAQ:
> 
> Year Part #    Ovlp Duration  Lift      Application
>                     Int./Exh. Int./Exh.
> 
> 1970 393859    58   286/286   .472/.472 350 4BC ex. AT, OAI, hi-perf
>      400165    57   285/287   .472/.472 4257, 67, 4400 AT, Toro W-34
>      402486    48   262/274   .440/.440 455 Toro ex. W-34
>      402569    108  328/328   .475/.475 455 4400 ST OAI (W-30)
>      406768    68   294/296   .472/.472 455 4400 ST ex. OAI
>      402194    82   308/308   .474/.474 350 W-31 OAI
> 
> Note: Overlap in degrees
> Note: Olds rates duration at zero lift, most cam mfrs. rate duration
> at .050 lift
> 
> ST=standard trans   AT=automatic trans  2BC/4BC: 2 or 4 barrel carb
>  
> Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
> Canada
 
 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Jul 1997 23:47:50 -0400
From: Chris Urban <urbanch@magi.com>
Subject: RE: 69 Cutlass Front Bumper

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Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I 'd like that bumper if its as nice as you say. How about $150 for it?

- ----------
From: 	Rob T[SMTP:katana72@juno.com]
Sent: 	Saturday, July 12, 1997 4:13 PM
To: 	Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 	69 Cutlass Front Bumper

A friend of mine inadvertently got a 69 front bumper for his 70 Cutlass.
The bumper is in almost perfect condition and he would like to sell it,
if possible. He would accept any reasonable offer on this bumper. In
addition, I have a 70 front bumperin good core condition. Mine needs
rechroming, but there are no dents or rust through spots in/on it. If
anybody is interested in either of these, drop me a line.

Rob
Katana72          "It's NOT your Daddy's Oldsmobile !!!!!    Hastings, MN




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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 00:27:50 -0700
From: "Suzanne Rousseau" <ewok@clarkston.com>
Subject: Re: cam profiles

> Try Supercars Unlimited, Portland, OR, (503) 244-8249
> 
> Jeff Stanish, '69, '75, '79 H/Os
> 
> On Sat, 12 Jul 1997, dayc wrote:
> 
> > Does anyone now where to get the 400165 W-34 grind cam?
> > 

Supercars Unlimited only deals in Cutlass/442 parts and probably would not
have that cam available.  But it's worth a try.  A W-31 grind would fit
nicely in its place though  :-)

Paul Rousseau
*1967 442

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 07:46:56 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Non-Olds - But What's It Worth?

Driving around yesterday looking for cheap wheels, I encountered a unique
car for sale. It's a '75 Buick Lesabre 4-dr sedan. The unique thing is
that the car is virtually brand new, showing 13K miles. Still has the
original GM spec tires with lots of tread, still smells new inside. 
Original 1975 rustprofing still shiny, and no rust anywhere. Original
paint is a nonmetallic gray (lousy color) with red vinyl roof and red
cloth interior. It's loaded:  Buick 455, power everything, AM/FM, air that
blows cold instantly, you name it. Even has spiral shocks on it (didn't
know they still used them in '75). 

Story is it was owned by an old couple who passed away some years ago, 
inherited by a relative who is equally old, and has been stored for 
years. He's testing the market for it, will sell if he gets the right 
price. Turned down someone's offer of $3500, looking for something over 
$5K Canadian.

I was momentarily interested in making an offer to use it as a driver. 
Cooled off on that idea after sitting in it -- this is truly a *big* car, 
and with that 455 there I'm sure 10 miles to the gallon is probably the 
norm. Doesn't seem practical to use it for that, but since it's a 4-door 
sedan it really isn't all that collectible either. But it is a really 
nice car and there can't be many like it left.

Any idea what something like this is worth? 

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 08:20:49 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: More Car-buying Adventures...

Aside from the Buick, I looked at few candidates for my daily driver
yesterday. Drove an '88 Cutlass, drove fine, nice and peppy, great brakes,
but lousy structure and found bondo in the door bottoms despite being
assured it was rust-free... plus the Ford Escort(!) radiator in it made me
shake my head (why do people do things like that??). 

'84 Delta 4-door, drove fine, needed paint and rear bumper starting to 
go... would be interested if only it had any options, but aside from 
AM/FM and cruise it was a stripper. Really would like air. Little over 
60K miles, old fellow wants about $1500. Dunno. 

Interesting car: '78 Delta, 66K miles. Rocket 350/TH350 combo, drove
better than any of the '80's full-sizers (why did Olds stop making that
engine?!?), rust free. One repaint, not bad, one ding in a rear quarter,
rust/bondo free, evidence of annual rustproofing for years. Crummy
aftermarket faux-wire wheel covers, needs front tires. Worst problem is
drivers interior B-pillar trim is broken, needs new shoulder harness there
too, and needs a pair of armrest bases.  Assume any GM full-sizer could
supply those, don't know how big a hassle it is to change them out. This
one is even more of a stripper than the '84, no air, no power anything,
and even just an AM radio! Does have cruise, switch was on dash in '78!
All red, vinyl top over dark red paint, red cloth interior with split
bench. Color scheme didn't thrill me. Guy is asking $2500, says he would
take $2300, seemed honest. My gut tells me that's about $500 too much.
OTOH, this is the first of all the ones I've driven that made me smile...
I really like that powertrain. Still considering that one. 

Finally -- driving home I spot a Delta paked in a field with a for sale
sign on it... go look. Somewhere between an '80 and '83. Nasty original
paint but no holes, solid frame too. Car is loaded, power everything, air,
nice silver gray velour interior. Look at sign... $600! Geez, wonder if it
has a motor.  Car is unlocked(!). Shows about 80K miles. Open the door,
overpowering smell of motor oil, looks like back floor got soaked with it,
gray carpet is now dirty brown. How, I don't know. If it runs, it's
probably the first one I've seen that's worth the asking price. Took down
a phone #, no answer, but will talk to the owner eventually just for
curiosity if nothing else.. ;-)

Anyhow, sure is interesting exploring the bottom of the car-selling
market.  BTW, every single one of the full-sizers I've driven has the same
problem: turn signal switch won't cancel on a left turn. Design problem I
assume, find it curious though. 

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 09:01:47 -0500
From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Subject: Re: cam profiles

- ----------
> From: Suzanne Rousseau <ewok@clarkston.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: cam profiles
> Date: Friday, July 11, 1997 11:23 PM
> 
>                  
> Does anyone know the specific cam profiles of W-30 MT, W-31 MT, and '70
> Toro cams, including lobe separation and overlap?  I just got a dyno
> program and this information is necessary.  Also, is there a way to
figure
> out the overlap of a cam if you know the duration and lobe centers?
> 
> What is the difference between a 'closed' and an 'open' chamber head, and
> which one of these would Olds heads be?
> 
> Well...off to play with the Dyno some more....
> 
> Paul Rousseau
> *1967 442
>A closed chamber head has a large quinch area in the combustion chamber.
This is the flat area that the head gasket contacts. On a closed chamber
head it extends well into the combustion chamber causing the air fuel
mixture that is in this area to be forced into the rest of the chamber by
the piston. This helps keep the fuel in suspension and promotes flame
travel by swirling the air. A open chamber head is recesed all or most of
the piston diamater. I don't really know why some engines have these as
they seem to hurt performance but my guess is less emisons. 
All of the common Olds heads are of the open chamber variety. I don't know
about the early ones or the D's and F's.
Walter

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 09:02:48 -0500
From: "Rod & Connie Holum" <holum@discover-net.net>
Subject: Re: Re-introduction

- ----------
> From: Chris Brown Witt <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
> To: me from myself <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>; oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re-introduction

>   Had an Olds since 1976, when I got a 64 Cutlass with the 330, 290 hp 4V
motor

Do you still have the 64...I could use some parts..

Rod Holum
64 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 07:39:02 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Subject: Re: dash pads

Hi all,

Does anyone know how to remove a dash pad (upper part) from a dash
board?  Better yet how about removing the dash board?  Let me know....

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 10:30:48 -0700
From: Warlock <warlock@comic.net>
Subject: w30 bdy parts

are there any fibreglass race body parts available for
70 442 w30?
john would like to know.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 11:36:31 -0500
From: Ed Rogers <rhubarb@mindspring.com>
Subject: New Carb = No Power ?

Hi group,

I just replaced my Holley carb with a Carter made Quadrajet.  Problems I
had with the Holley were bad idle and a hesitation at any level of
acceleration.  But once it picked up for the hesitation, it ran great.

Problem with the new carb is that it idles great but if I put any kind of
foot into the pedal it feels like it is choking off the engine.  I can easy
the car up to about 40MPH, but after that .. nothing.  On one test drive I
punched it and got the engine to open up, but there was no power and the
transmission was shifting all over the place.


Car is  69 442 Convertible, 73-76 J head 455 with HEI and Holley Street
Dominator intake.  The carb was running on a 70 442 before being sold to
me.  Are there any adjustments/changes I need to make to the carb?  Would
changing the carb change my timing?

I checked vacuum and it looks good (gauge goes into the green when I give
the engine some power)

THanks,

Ed

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 13:11:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: SAdelstein@aol.com
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: sputtering engine 

If your car sputters or misfires when you go to accelerate it might be the
accelerator pump. but if the car isn't dieing I don't think that would be
your problem.  On the list one thing you didn't add was what you set your
timing at. If your timing is too retarded it can cause your car to misfire
and sputter whenever you go to accelerate.  I would check the timing first
and see if it is set properly, and if it is try advancing the timing with the
vacuum advance hose disconnected about eight to ten degrees.  This should
help you with this problem.  If this doesn't help check your air-fuel
mixture.  It might be set to rich or to lean.  Oh! another thing about the
timing is that whwnever you change or adjust the points it will affect your
timing tremendously, but setting the timing will not affect the adjustment to
the points 

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #747
********************************

