To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #700


oldsmobile-digest           Friday, 30 May 1997        Volume 01 : Number 700

Re: Address for chat room needed
66' Cutlass Stuff
Re: 425 bump-stick
66' Cutlass Stuff
Test
Re: Ooops, apologies
subscribe oldsmobile
Marty's costume party
Re: Hedders/442
Re: timing chain - 3800
FYI: Air conditioning websites
'65/Delta 88
Re: Chat room!
Re: ** parts for sale**
Re: 66' Cutlass Stuff
Re: Holley carbs; Re: Everyone read!!
fuel guage problem
Re: 66' Cutlass Stuff
WTB: Olds Spindles/Wheels/Master Cylinder
Saving Old Cars
Re: fuel guage problem
Re: 66' Cutlass Stuff
Re: Radio Speaker Info
Re: Holley carbs; Re: Everyone read!!
Re: WTB: Olds Spindles/Wheels/Master Cylinder
Re: I.D. Numbers Please
Re: Holley carbs; Re: Everyone read!!
Re: WTB: Olds Spindles/Wheels/Master Cylinder
Re: Saving Old Cars
Re: fuel guage problem
Re: NEED PULLEY
442/Cutlass Parts For Sale
Your Opinion Please:
Leaving for a while
Re: Your Opinion Please:
Re: Your Opinion Please:
Michael Brady
Re: radio speaker 4x10's
Re: Address for chat room needed
350/455 brackets
Re: radio speaker 4x10's
Re: Marty's costume party
test
Re: Some Questions
Re: Your Opinion Please:
Berejik's Sunday Show(was Re: Marty's costume party)
Re:  Is it worth it?
Re: Marty's costume party
78 cutlass front bumper
engine paint
Re: NGK plugs for Olds
FW: 69 Convertible

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Shang <shoover@flash.net>
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 23:10:56 -0300
Subject: Re: Address for chat room needed

John Oder wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> Could someone give me the URL for the chat room??
>
> John Oder
> 70 Cutlass SX W-32

http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner/oldschat.htm

------------------------------

From: Robert Knowles <bigrob@flash.net>
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 23:03:47 -0300
Subject: 66' Cutlass Stuff

  Hi,
I am kinda of an Olds' newbie.
 I have some questions about my 66' Cutlass Hard Top.

1. After disassembling all the accessories and stuff from my engine (330 4V
Ultra High Compression) to repaint and restore everything, I now have a
small problem. My power steering doesn't seem to work now. All the hoses are
right and not leaking. The shop manual says to rotate the pulley counter
clockwise to bleed the line, and stop when u see no more bubbles. Will the
be the cure, it worked before i took it apart.

2. I also learned that the fireing order goes counter clockwise
too....DUH!!!!!!!!!!
You should of seen me trying to start it.

3. I have power brakes, but my pedal is almost to the floor. Will fresh pads
and an adjustment to the brake drums do the trick, or do i just need to
bleed the lines? the pads are about half worn.

                                                          Robert Knowles
                                                          Ft.Worth, Texas
                                                          66' Cutlass
Holiday Coupe
                                                          330-Jetway,
Ps,PB,A/C
                                                          52825 miles


------------------------------

From: Robert Knowles <bigrob@flash.net>
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 23:03:56 -0300
Subject: Re: 425 bump-stick

In a message dated 97-05-27 20:45:40 EDT, you write:

>
>  Great, Im gonna go to the Edelbrock site right now and ask.  As for
>  the part number it is a ª2152 cam, performer-plus cam.
>
>
OK, I checked the site out the other day. This is the camshaft/lifters/lube
package of the Edelbrock Performer Pro camshaft package. It is recommended
for Oldsmobiles of 1967 and later (no doubt to account for valvetrain angles
of earlier cars). The reason this works relatively well in the 45 degree
blocks is that the firing order is correct and that at the critical moments (
e.g. TDC ) the overlap (39 degree cam in a 45 degree block) is a miniscule 3
degrees early/late which should not cause serious conflicts. I suspect that
if this was a more radical cam, instead of slightly improved over stock, that
using the 39 degree cam could cause backfire through the carburetor due to
the intake valve still being open at ignition. In your particular setup, I
would not worry about it. Mind you, this is really just my opinion, my own
personal knowledge on cams is wanting.

BTW someone please reprimand me if I am wrong.

Karl Aune
1965 Dynamic 88
Chicago, IL

(e.g. Reincarnation) Is it too late for me to come back as a 1966 W-30 442?

------------------------------

From: Robert Knowles <bigrob@flash.net>
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 23:04:00 -0300
Subject: 66' Cutlass Stuff

>To: oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>From: Robert Knowles <bigrob@flash.net>
>Subject: 66' Cutlass Stuff
>
>  Hi,
>I am kinda of an Olds' newbie.
> I have some questions about my 66' Cutlass Hard Top.
>
>1. After disassembling all the accessories and stuff from my engine (330 4V
Ultra High Compression) to repaint and restore everything, I now have a
small problem. My power steering doesn't seem to work now. All the hoses are
right and not leaking. The shop manual says to rotate the pulley counter
clockwise to bleed the line, and stop when u see no more bubbles. Will the
be the cure, it worked before i took it apart.
>
>2. I also learned that the fireing order goes counter clockwise
too....DUH!!!!!!!!!!
>You should of seen me trying to start it.
>
>3. I have power brakes, but my pedal is almost to the floor. Will fresh
pads and an adjustment to the brake drums do the trick, or do i just need to
bleed the lines? the pads are about half worn.
>
>                                                          Robert Knowles
>                                                          Ft.Worth, Texas
>                                                          66' Cutlass
Holiday Coupe
>                                                          330-Jetway,
Ps,PB,A/C >                                                          52825
miles > >

------------------------------

From: Robert Knowles <bigrob@flash.net>
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 23:05:55 -0300
Subject: Test

test

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 18:17:20 -0300
Subject: Re: Ooops, apologies

Robert J. Barry wrote:
>
> At 09:20 PM 5/29/97 -0400, I wrote:
> >Greg,
> >
> >I was wondering just when the next one of these guys was going to come
>
> Sorry about that; meant that one to go directly to Greg...
>
> Really, Wiz, you're alright by me! (where are you, anyway?)
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

Bob & Greg,

Of course the knowledgable know that Wiz has unsubscribed.  I don't know
why, but I have to agree that I learned to like that fellow very much.

The bashing of Joe Mondello & Dick is a little uncalled for.  Of course
I wanted to know of experiences that others had of these major vendors
in the Oldsmobile field.  Most did inform in a gentlemanly manner that
they either liked or disliked these two because of their specific
business dealings.  That was very informative.  The personal things got
a little old - but then I have a delete button that I used profusely.
We may have all set ourselves up for this debacle by both ignoring the
issue & even adding to it.  Thank you Greg for standing up for the rest
of us.  We owe you the next couple of hundred.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: "Bob Roberts" <nwrightrd@hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 23:25:25 -0300
Subject: subscribe oldsmobile

subscribe oldsmobile


- ---------------------------------------------------------
Get Your *Web-Based* Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
- ---------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 23:28:36 -0300
Subject: Marty's costume party

All of these posts came within a 45 minute timeframe, and all from the same
computer.  The two labelled as being from "hanthorn" have "subject" in
lowercase.  That's usually a program related field (i.e. not something you
can just change case on)  Maybe he's telling the truth about coworkers
using the computer, maybe not.  Since "his" own posts came in between two
of the offensive posts, I'm inclined to believe it's his own work.  Either
way, he's gone now.  For those of you who don't quite understand how it's
been determined that he's the responsible one, many mail readers have a
function to show all headers.  This Eudora has a "Blah Blah Blah" button
(which ~really~ amuses me:)  Others have it hidden in a menu somewhere.
Through this function you'll see many items about a specific post.  Here's
parts from one of mine:


Received: from cisslip1.nmclites.edu (cisslip1.nmclites.edu [204.200.98.151])
by cis.nmclites.edu (8.8.5/8.8.5) with SMTP id RAA25245
for <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; Thu, 29 May 1997 17:02:05 -0600
X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 3.0.1 (32)
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Subject: Re: racial slurs

This shows where the post originated from (electronically), along with what
it was composed with.  These are normally hidden.  Here are his:

Received: from earth.inwave.com ([206.101.238.1]) by chebucto.ns.ca with
SMTP id <84693(1)>; Thu, 29 May 1997 20:03:00 -0300
SUBJECT: Holleys really suck
From: shoover@flash.net
Message-Id: <199705292205.RAA23658@earth.inwave.com>

Received: from earth.inwave.com ([206.101.238.1]) by chebucto.ns.ca with
SMTP id <58372(3)>; Thu, 29 May 1997 20:28:37 -0300
SUBJECT: Oldsmobile confusion
From: ab348@chebucto.ns.ca
Message-Id: <199705292231.RAA25758@earth.inwave.com>

Received: from earth.inwave.com ([206.101.238.1]) by chebucto.ns.ca with
SMTP id <58682(2)>; Thu, 29 May 1997 20:30:58 -0300
Subject: 68 442 hood
From: Hanthorn <hanthorn@inwave.com>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (Win95; I)

Received: from earth.inwave.com ([206.101.238.1]) by chebucto.ns.ca with
SMTP id <58711(1)>; Thu, 29 May 1997 20:34:37 -0300
SUBJECT: ** parts for sale**
From: ab348@chebucto.ns.ca
Message-Id: <199705292236.RAA26247@earth.inwave.com>

Received: from earth.inwave.com ([206.101.238.1]) by chebucto.ns.ca with
SMTP id <58699(1)>; Thu, 29 May 1997 20:34:27 -0300
SUBJECT: ** parts for sale**
From: ab348@chebucto.ns.ca
Message-Id: <199705292237.RAA26274@earth.inwave.com>

Received: from earth.inwave.com ([206.101.238.1]) by chebucto.ns.ca with
SMTP id <84689(1)>; Thu, 29 May 1997 20:41:24 -0300
Subject: where is everyone?
From: Hanthorn <hanthorn@inwave.com>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (Win95; I)


All were sent through the same computer (206.101.238.1)  The ones by
"hanthorn" used Mozilla 3.0, while the others didn't.  Anyone know more
abot the Message-Id string?  Just for curiosity...  Anyhow, there's the
evidence.  You can all draw your own conclusions.

Hmm... Does Judge Wapner have e-mail?  How 'bout an Olds....

Oh, and here's part of his explanation: (re-forewarded....)

Due to the fact that this computer is accesed by only a handfull of
people, All persons involving this matter have been notified and
informed. Realizing the posts have been offensive,

< < < S N I P > > >

Marty




             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: hhzimmerman <hhzimmerman@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 23:36:40 -0300
Subject: Re: Hedders/442

Brad Bowles wrote:
>
> Greg,
>         I got them from Mondello at about $350.  I'm not sure that they will
> fit in a convertable because of the frame reinforcements.  If not, I'll
> sell you a pair of W/Z manifolds for a reasonable price.
> Brad
> 70 442


How much?  What are w/z?  are the better than just standard manifolds-
are they true dual exaust?

- -greg

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 00:41:22 -0300
Subject: Re: timing chain - 3800

- ----------
> From: jones <jones@morgan.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: timing chain - 3800
> Date: Thursday, May 29, 1997 8:48 PM
>
>
>
> ----------
> > From: Jeff & Patti Kobinsky <jkpkobin@discover-net.net>
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: timing chain - 3800
> > Date: Thursday, May 29, 1997 12:44 PM
> >
> > I have a 86 "98" with about 137.000 miles - runs and looks like new.
> >
> > I've been told that timing chain problems can trash this motor unless I
> > change it.
> >
> > Motor has never been apart - do I need to do anything to this?
> A jumped timeing chain on the 3800 nearly always bends some valves. While
> this isnt terminal it is a lot more expensive to fix than just replacing
> the chain. It usually decides to jump when you are miles from home or in
> the " bad" part of town. Just the peace of mind is nearly worth it. Oh
and
> replace the whole timeing set (cam & crank gears and chain) new chains
dont
> like old gears. With 137,000 you are past due on the 3800.
> Walter
I guess I will have to make a retracton The 3800 isnt  bad about the chain
jumping like its ansestor  the 3.8.  The heads on these are very simalar
but the 3800 is a much smoother running engine and has a better chain and
gears as someone said earlier.  I have had two customers that broke cams in
them. .I dont know if this is a problem with them or just a fluke.

------------------------------

From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 15:05:26 -0300
Subject: FYI: Air conditioning websites

I have done some extensive web searching in the last day or two to find out
the best way to repair the AC in my car(s).  Though I'd pass along what I've
found out.

- -EPA certification to buy auto refrigerants:  http://www.epatest.com/
I haven't tried it yet and for all I know it could be a scam to get your
credit card ª.  So buyer beware.  But it is in fact possible for a layman to
get certified to purchase refrigerant.  A friend of mine has his and it cost
him $10.  His dad dug up a mail-in test so he took it too.  Now they can
both buy freon.

- -A hypertext list of suppliers of some refrigeration tools and supplies.
http://www.bdsnet.com/~pparish/address.htm

- -An alternative refrigerants homepage.
http://www.commnet.edu/QVCTC/student/ChuckBB/refriger.html

- -A very interesting R-12 faq site.
http://www.dcc.edu/vettenet/acfaq.txt
This faq lists a mail-in adress that you can supposedly send to for EPA
certification.  The cost is $25 (I think) and they send you a study guide
and a test to mail back in.  The test is open-book.  There are also some
suggestions listed on the site about building your own recovery systems.


- -Chillit, a "drop in" replacement for R-12:
http://www.chill-it.com/index.html

I have E-mailed these folks and they said they would sell me a case of
Chill-It (aka Autofrost, aka GHG-X4) as long as I can prove EPA
certification. In fact they said they'd be happy to do business with me, so
it seems they don't just sell to dealers.  I can't find *anyone* who retails
it locally, so I might try ordering from them.  I don't know of anyone who
has tried it but it sounds good.  They claim it's just as effective as R-12
and better than 134-A.  A case of 12 9.6oz cans cost $125.  A 25 lb
cannister (equivalent to 30 lb R-12) cost $269.  Pretty steep but I priced
50 lb of R-12 locally and it was $1200.  And a 12oz can was $18 at the auto
parts store.  To use chill-it in an r-12 system you only need to replace old
hoses with barrier hoses (if neccesary) and maybe change a charge fitting.
(Less than $5 for the fittings, figure $50 a hose for replacements)  It's
compatible with R-12 lubricants but not with 134-A.

And that's what I've found out so far.  Stay cool. ;)

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista-Cruiser
`67 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: odang@vico.co.id (Jusuf R. Odang)
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 06:12:30 -0300
Subject: '65/Delta 88

I have been on the list exactly for 10 days now and I read ( literally )
every words on all incoming mails but how come I have never encountered/read
any info on '65/Delta 88 at all ???
Is there anybody out there who has '65/Delta88 and who kind enough willing
to share any info on '65/D88 with me ??????
Very much appreciated.

jusuf/jakarta, indonesia
'65/D88
 e-mail - odang@vico.co.id

------------------------------

From: Michael Brady <drolds19@starnetinc.com>
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 00:43:49 -0300
Subject: Re: Chat room!

Hello Cliff, nice to see someone on the list with some starfires!! I've
owned one 62' Starfire, one 62' Dynamic 88 and currently drive a 61'
Holiday coupe-Super 88. Are you in need of any parts?? I am always
looking for stuff for my 61'--let me know. Take care.

Michael Brady-OCA-NAOC-IVOC-Starfire/Jetstar 1 Chapter

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 00:57:23 -0300
Subject: Re: ** parts for sale**

At 07:37 PM 5/29/97 -0300, you wrote:
>I just got a 65 mustang incase you people want to get
>a hold of some real power.  I'm selling it for $4000. firm
>I'm also scrapping all my olds parts, so if you want any
>speak now!
>
>Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
>

Greg

        Are you SICK? What's got into you?

Jim

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 01:01:03 -0300
Subject: Re: 66' Cutlass Stuff

At 10:03 PM 5/29/97 -0400, you wrote:
>1. After disassembling all the accessories and stuff from my engine (330 4V
>Ultra High Compression) to repaint and restore everything, I now have a
>small problem. My power steering doesn't seem to work now. All the hoses are
>right and not leaking. The shop manual says to rotate the pulley counter
>clockwise to bleed the line, and stop when u see no more bubbles. Will the
>be the cure, it worked before i took it apart.

You're right; if it worked before, it should work now. Trapped air will
prevent it from working, so most definitely bleed it. Later pumps are bled
by raising the front end off the ground on jackstands, running the motor,
and then turning the wheel lock-to-lock a few times; maybe the procedure is
different for earlier pumps?

>2. I also learned that the fireing order goes counter clockwise
>too....DUH!!!!!!!!!!
>You should of seen me trying to start it.

No, that rotation only works for "inferior" brand small-blocks... ;)

>3. I have power brakes, but my pedal is almost to the floor. Will fresh pads
>and an adjustment to the brake drums do the trick, or do i just need to
>bleed the lines? the pads are about half worn.

I'd suggest bleeding first, but also check the shoes (you didn't put disc
brakes on there, did you? Worthwhile upgrade) for cracks or separation; if
they've got cracks in them, replace them and the mounting hardware, and
adjust them to spec. Needless to say, you should also check the condition of
the brake hoses and wheel cylinder seals at the same time. Kanter's has a
comprehensive kit for a very decent price, which will take care of all these
things.

>
>                                                          Robert Knowles
>                                                          Ft.Worth, Texas
>                                                          66' Cutlass
>Holiday Coupe
>                                                          330-Jetway,
Ps,PB,A/C >                                                          52825
miles > > > > _______________________________________________________ Dr.
Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu Theology Dept, Providence
College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 22:17:29 -0300
Subject: Re: Holley carbs; Re: Everyone read!!

Shang wrote:
>
> holley.sucks@earth.inwave.com wrote:
> >
> > The Holley  is not a good carb.  If the engine backfires once, the power
valve might blow out, and if it backfires twice.....thats gas all over , and
an engine fire occurs. > > this has happend to my mothers 66 Elcamino, a
friends 4x4, another friends monte burned completly to the ground.  one of my
friends had a brand new 650 H*LLEY on his 72 nova and was in the process of
getting a ticket, after he was done he started his car, and boom.. the enging
started on fire, the cop got his fire extinguisher and saved the car. > > so I
refer to Holleys as firepower.  so if you have dual quads (2-holleys) you have
twice the firepower as normal.  if you would like to reply, create new mail
and use subject; > > "Holley firepower" > >
thankyou, > >
Citizen X

Got another one for ya. Unless they fixed it, there are a couple of
screws on the underside of the holley that could be sucked into the
engine. I took one off a d*dge truck that was backfiring and found those
screws very loose. The backfiring was due to the hideous vacuum leak.

A friend of mine has a '71 v*tte with an 850 double pumper. That car
never ran right. After changing cams, emptying 5 gallons of water out of
the tank and changing intakes the real problem was found. A cracked base
plate.

As for me, I will stay with the lovable Rottenchestr quadrajunk!

Danny

------------------------------

From: DJV442@aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 00:11:58 -0300
Subject: fuel guage problem

i have a 71 cutlass convertible that has the factory idiot lights/fuel guage
cluster.the guage is reading about a half tank over full(car only has about a
quarter tank).i dissasembled the unit,tightened all connections.i noticed
that if i unplugged the cluster,manually moved the needle down,when i plugged
it back in,would again rise to the same area.i disconnected the sending unit
in the trunk and it wasn't affected.
any ideas/thoughts....any help would be greatly
appreciated...thanks...djv442@aol.com

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 01:13:27 -0300
Subject: Re: 66' Cutlass Stuff

 Hi,
I am kinda of an Olds' newbie.
I have some questions about my 66' Cutlass Hard Top.

1. After disassembling all the accessories and stuff from my engine (330 4V
Ultra High Compression) to repaint and restore everything, I now have a
small problem. My power steering doesn't seem to work now. All the hoses are
right and not leaking. The shop manual says to rotate the pulley counter
clockwise to bleed the line, and stop when u see no more bubbles. Will the
be the cure, it worked before i took it apart.

2. I also learned that the fireing order goes counter clockwise
too....DUH!!!!!!!!!!
You should of seen me trying to start it.

3. I have power brakes, but my pedal is almost to the floor. Will fresh
pads and an adjustment to the brake drums do the trick, or do i just need to
bleed the lines? the pads are about half worn.

                                                          Robert Knowles
                                                          Ft.Worth, Texas
                                                          66' Cutlass
Holiday Coupe
                                                          330-Jetway,
Ps,PB,A/C
                                                          52825 miles

Bob

        1.)  I bleed my power steering by filling the resevoir about half
full and fire the car and rotate the steering wheel about a half turn both
ways. You may hear a slight whine. Don't do this fast. Go slow working the
air out slowly. Stop and add the fluid to the full mark and repeat. This is
usually all it takes.

        2.)  Yep! DUH!

        3.)  If you diconnected the brake lines at all you MUST bleed the
brakes. Get the shoe adjustment close first. Otherwise you'll be there
forever.


Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: ngomez@airmail.net (Nick Gomez)
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 00:34:34 -0300
Subject: WTB: Olds Spindles/Wheels/Master Cylinder

I think I'm ready to put the Olds on some jack stands and take the front
end apart. I will be extra careful when removing the coil springs. I admit,
it will be my first time removing a set. Anyone feel I shouldn't do this
under any circumstances?

I'm going to need to pick up some disc brake spindles for my car. I will
also need everything else, the rotor, caliper, shield, seals, etc. To fit
my 1965 Olds Ninety Eight, I have been told that the parts must be from a
1970 or earlier Olds. I was wondering if anyone on the list might have a
parts car with what I need. I could also use a dual chamber master cylinder
from an Olds with front discs/rear drums.

The 14" wheels I have now are not going to fit over the calipers (Chris
Fair has been so helpful!), so I will need some 15" wheels. I guess I'll
have to measure all the stuff soon, backspacing and what have you. I'd love
a pair of smoothies, I doubt I'll find any used.

Well, thanks for your time, and let me know!
Nick

1965 Olds Ninety Eight
Dallas, Texas

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 00:59:45 -0300
Subject: Saving Old Cars

This information was posted in our local So Cal Chapter newsletter.
Figured it could be of interest to ~a lot~ of enthusiasts, etc.

SAVE OLD CARS
To save would-be classic cars, SEMA and Unical's Eco-Scrap have arranged to
publish advanced list of cars scheduled for scrapping.  Car enthusiasts can
get lists via fax by calling Sema at 909-396-0182, ext 750. request
document number 990, Eco-Scrap Vehicle list.

Also a list can be found for Los Angeles and Phoenix areas from Eco-Scrap
at their wibsite....
http://www.eco-scrap.com/list.txt

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 01:28:05 -0300
Subject: Re: fuel guage problem

At 12:11 AM 5/30/97 -0300, you wrote:
>i have a 71 cutlass convertible that has the factory idiot lights/fuel guage
>cluster.the guage is reading about a half tank over full(car only has about a
>quarter tank).i dissasembled the unit,tightened all connections.i noticed
>that if i unplugged the cluster,manually moved the needle down,when i plugged
>it back in,would again rise to the same area.i disconnected the sending unit
>in the trunk and it wasn't affected.
>any ideas/thoughts....any help would be greatly
>appreciated...thanks...djv442@aol.com
>

        Check the brown wire going to the top of the sending unit for a
short. This will make it read full or over full all the time. I've
experienced this one first hand, when I ran out of gas and had to push it 4
blocks.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 01:30:33 -0300
Subject: Re: 66' Cutlass Stuff

>
> 1. After disassembling all the accessories and stuff from my engine (330
4V
> Ultra High Compression) to repaint and restore everything, I now have a
> small problem. My power steering doesn't seem to work now. All the hoses
are
> right and not leaking. The shop manual says to rotate the pulley counter
> clockwise to bleed the line, and stop when u see no more bubbles. Will
the
> be the cure, it worked before i took it apart.
> Cant help you with this one

> 2. I also learned that the fireing order goes counter clockwise
> too....DUH!!!!!!!!!!
> You should of seen me trying to start it.
> Yep the Dist is on the oposite side of the cam than Chevys

> 3. I have power brakes, but my pedal is almost to the floor. Will fresh
pads
> and an adjustment to the brake drums do the trick, or do i just need to
> bleed the lines? the pads are about half worn.
>Pads wont change your pedal height. Rear brake adjustment and air in the
lines will.

>                                                           Robert Knowles
>                                                           Ft.Worth, Texas
>                                                           66' Cutlass
Are you going to the show in Grapevine Sat?
Walter
Bowie Tx


------------------------------

From: dnewman@wcbi.com (Doug Newman)
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 01:30:41 -0300
Subject: Re: Radio Speaker Info

Daren wrote:

>I think '88-up GM full size trucks w/ext. cabs use 4x10s in the
>c-pillars.
>
>Daren
>
>O.C.A. ª23571
>daren@qconline.com

I don't know about the extended cabs, but the full size GMC/Ch*vy regular
cabs come stock with 4x6s in the dash and c-pillars.

Doug Newman
Columbus, MS
1987 442

http://www.442.com/newman.html

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 01:51:23 -0300
Subject: Re: Holley carbs; Re: Everyone read!!

he
> Got another one for ya. Unless they fixed it, there are a couple of
> screws on the underside of the holley that could be sucked into the
> engine. I took one off a d*dge truck that was backfiring and found those
> screws very loose. The backfiring was due to the hideous vacuum leak

.
ALWAYS use a gasket that covers the center of the baseplate so if these
back out they cant fall into the intake. The new style Holley doesnt use
these screws.

> A friend of mine has a '71 v*tte with an 850 double pumper. That car
> never ran right. After changing cams, emptying 5 gallons of water out of
> the tank and changing intakes the real problem was found. A cracked base
> plate.
A Qjet wouldnt do good with the base plate cracked either. They have their
share of problems too such as leaking well plugs and the piston that
operates the front metering rods sticking.
None of the carbs made are perfect but they all will do a good job if they
are fed clean fuel and air. The guy talking  about Holleys catching on fire
probably had trash under the needle valve making it flood out the vents All
carbs will do that if run without a good filter. There isnt a carb made
that won't burn  they all have gas in them.

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 02:01:44 -0300
Subject: Re: WTB: Olds Spindles/Wheels/Master Cylinder

At 11:34 PM 5/29/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I think I'm ready to put the Olds on some jack stands and take the front
>end apart. I will be extra careful when removing the coil springs. I admit,
>it will be my first time removing a set. Anyone feel I shouldn't do this
>under any circumstances?

Not under *any* circumstances; just don't do it if you don't have a spring
compressor. There are ways of removing the spring without one (and you need
an internal spring compressor, not the external kind used on Macpherson
struts), but they're not easy or necessarily safe, especially for a
first-timer. So unless you would like a coil spring to penetrate your
cranium, get a spring compressor and good luck with the front end work!
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: LUIS442@aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 02:11:45 -0300
Subject: Re: I.D. Numbers Please

In 1972 the Serial Number identification plate was attached to the top of the
instrument panel on the driver's side  and is visible through the windshield.

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 23:35:40 -0300
Subject: Re: Holley carbs; Re: Everyone read!!

> A Qjet wouldnt do good with the base plate cracked either. They have their
> share of problems too such as leaking well plugs and the piston that
> operates the front metering rods sticking.
> None of the carbs made are perfect but they all will do a good job if they
> are fed clean fuel and air. The guy talking  about Holleys catching on fire
> probably had trash under the needle valve making it flood out the vents All
> carbs will do that if run without a good filter. There isnt a carb made
> that won't burn  they all have gas in them.

The only way that v*tte will ever run again is if it's converted to
steam. I've known this car for 5 years and I never known it to move
totally under it's own power. This cars problem lies deeper than the
carb. Anyway, I'm almost gun shy about replying anymore.

Danny

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 23:40:17 -0300
Subject: Re: WTB: Olds Spindles/Wheels/Master Cylinder

Nick Gomez wrote:
>
> I think I'm ready to put the Olds on some jack stands and take the front
> end apart. I will be extra careful when removing the coil springs. I admit,
> it will be my first time removing a set. Anyone feel I shouldn't do this
> under any circumstances?

Be sure to use a good quality set of spring compressors. If you have any
doubts don't take any chances. A coil spring is very dangerous. I've
heard stories of springs shooting through concrete walls. If you do it
your self be very carefull.

Danny

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 02:17:11 -0300
Subject: Re: Saving Old Cars

At 11:59 PM 5/29/97 -0400, you wrote:
>SAVE OLD CARS
>To save would-be classic cars, SEMA and Unical's Eco-Scrap have arranged to
>publish advanced list of cars scheduled for scrapping.  Car enthusiasts can
>get lists via fax by calling Sema at 909-396-0182, ext 750. request
>document number 990, Eco-Scrap Vehicle list.
>
>Also a list can be found for Los Angeles and Phoenix areas from Eco-Scrap
>at their wibsite....
>http://www.eco-scrap.com/list.txt

I checked out the website, figuring I could buy a transporter and make it
out there to save all those classic cars...

The surprising thing about the list is that I could care less about most of
the cars on there! Well, there's nothing really old, nothing really
worthwhile; oldest Olds was 1977. Surprisingly, most of the cars are of the
'78-'85 era; they're crushing 12-year old cars?

The part that I don't really regret is seeing that most of the early-70's
cars being crushed are foreign econoboxes. heh, around here those cars were
"self-dismantling", due to the rust, so there'd be nothing to crush!
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 02:17:08 -0300
Subject: Re: fuel guage problem

At 12:28 AM 5/30/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>i have a 71 cutlass convertible that has the factory idiot lights/fuel guage
>>cluster.the guage is reading about a half tank over full(car only has about
a [snip] >>it back in,would again rise to the same area.i disconnected the
sending unit >>in the trunk and it wasn't affected. > >        Check the brown
wire going to the top of the sending unit for a >short. This will make it read
full or over full all the time. I've >experienced this one first hand, when I
ran out of gas and had to push it 4 >blocks.

The gas gauge is basically an ohmmeter; it reads the resistance that changes
with the float level. I think it reads a maximum of 90 ohms with a full
tank, so if there is a break in the wire going to the tank, it sees infinite
resistance and heads for the moon. OTOH, if there is a short to the chassis,
it will see *no* resistance, and drop to empty. I've got a couple cars with
intermittent breaks in the wire; sometimes the needle will shoot above full,
then the connection gets re-established and it drops back to normal.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 02:52:56 -0300
Subject: Re: NEED PULLEY

At 06:06 PM 5/29/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Jim, that was for a friend, I thought he would have contacted you by now. He
>should be sending you something thru the postal service. Thanks
>Rick
>

Rick

        Yes your friend called. I gave him my address. Will be looking for
it to come.

Jim

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 04:04:57 -0300
Subject: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale

                              Only Oldsmobiles

**** New stuff to list****
___________________
70-72 455 Engine Mounts  $42.00 pr
68-72 350 Engine Mounts  $38.00 pr
68-69 12 Bolt 'C' Type Posi Rear 3.73:1 (Posi rebuilt)  $550.00
68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $40.00 ea
68-72 Cowl/Windshield mouldings  $25.00ea
68-72 B-Pillar Molding Set (black, mint) $30.00 pr
70-72 Cutlass S Vinyl Top rear moldings (few pits but good)  $12.00 pr
71 Front Rocket Emblem (nice)  $5.00
71-72 Cutlass S/442 Hood Louvers (nice)  $50.00 pr
71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00
71-72 LH Sport Mirror-Remote (N.O.S.)  $125.00 ea

New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts for 1964-1972 Cutlass/442
_______________________________________________
66-67 425/400 Fuel Pump (N.O.S.)  $40.00
66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) $38.00 ea
68-75 SSII/III Center Caps (N.O.S.) $38.00 ea
69 Cutlass RH Grille (N.O.S.) $70.00 ea
70-72 Cutlass/442 LH Fenders (N.O.S.) $450.00 ea
71-72 Turn Signal Lens (N.O.S.)  $90.00 pr
71-72 Stone Shields (N.O.S.) $40.00 ea
71-72 Headlight Housings (plastic) (N.O.S.) $90.00 pr
71-72 Cutlass Rear Bumpers (N.O.S.) $380.00 ea
71-75  Cutlass Fender Emblems (N.O.S.)  $19.50 ea

Used Parts
_________
64 Cutlass/442
RH Headlight Bezel  $25.00
Front Bumper Core  $50.00
LH/RH Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea
F-85 Fender Emblem (nice)  $10.00
V-8 Emblem  $5.00

66 Cutlass/442
(2) 66-69 SSI Wheels  $40.00 ea
Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
Cutlass Front Grille  $40.00
LH Rear side molding  $10.00
Glove Box Door  $35.00
Front Bumper Cores  $65.00 ea
Rear Bumper Cores  $65.00 ea
Rear Window Molding Set  $75.00 set
Exterior A-Pillar Chrome Moldings  $15.00 ea
F-85/Cutlass Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea

67 Cutlass/442
Cutlass Headlight Bezels  $65.00 pr
Supreme/442 Side Moldings  $15.00 ea piece
Rear Window Molding Set  $75.00 set
Front Bumper Cores  $65.00 ea
Rear Bumper Cores  $65.00 ea
A Pillar Moldings  $15.00 ea
Glove Box Door  $35.00
(2) Deluxe Full Wheel Covers  $20.00 ea

68 Cutlass/442
68 Cutlass/442 Hood Hinges  $50.00 pr
68-72 Cutlass S LH Rear Side Glass (clear)  $45.00
442 Fender Emblem (1 set)  $20.00
442 Grille Emblem  $20.00
Headlight Plastics  $100.00 pr
Hood Hinge Set  $50.00 pr
Rear Window Molding Sets  $85.00 set

69 Cutlass/442
442 Grilles (nice)  $180.00 pr
69 442 Rear Bumper (nice)  $130.00
Hood Tongue  $15.00 ea
Hood Hinges  $50.00 pr
Hood Louver Chrome  $40.00 pr
Hood Louver Moldiings  $40.00 pr
Windshield Molding Sets  $65.00 set
Rear Window Molding Sets  $85.00 set

70 Cutlass/442
70 Oldsmobile Options Folder  $5.00
69-70 Front Hood Rocket (nice)  $12.00
70 Cutlass Trunk Rocket (nice)  $10.00
SSII/III Wheels  (set of 5)  $200.00 / (set of 4)  $160.00
S Hood Chrome Vents  $40.00 pr
S Hood Vent Moldings  $40.00 pr
Hood Tongue  $25.00 ea
Cutlass Supreme RH Door (rust free)  $110.00
"S" Black Pillared Coupe Door Panels (good cond)  $45.00 pr
Trunk Edge Moldings  $35.00 ea
Windshield Molding Sets  $85.00 set
Rear Upper Control Arms  $40.00 pr
Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $100.00
442 Coupe Trunk Lid (little rust)  $75.00
Black A/C and Non A/C Dash Pads  $100.00 ea
(1) Blue Auto Shift Console  $125.00 (w/shifter)

71 Cutlass/442
71 Cutlass Supreme Grilles (nice)  pot metal  $125.00 pr
SSII/III Wheels  (set of 5)  $200.00 / (set of 4)  $160.00
Trunk Edge Moldings  $35.00 ea

72 Cutlass/442
72 Cutlass/442 Owners Manual  $7.00
SSII/III Wheels  (set of 5)  $200.00 / (set of 4)  $160.00
Trunk Edge Moldings  $35.00 ea

Toronado Parts
66-68 Toro Pitman Arm (excellent cond) GM  $45.00
66-? Toronado Front Brake Drum  $15.00
66-69 Toronado Interior Moldings (Ivory)  $5.00 ea
66-69 Toronado LH & RH Rear Side Windows  $30.00 ea
66-68 Toronado Back Glass  $40.00
68-69 Toronado Headlight Vacuum Module  $40.00
68 Toronado Air Cleaner Pie Tin  $5.00
66-68 Toronado Trailer Hitch Assm.  $20.00

We have more parts in stock, and more coming!  The reproduction 70-72
Cutlass/442 Auto Trans Console Indicators $24.00 ea. plus $3.00 shipping.
We have also reproduced the 63 Starfire console shift lens $35.00 plus $3.00
shipping. We have recieved a 67-69 2 spd auto shift lens and will be
reproducing these for the Jetaway Trans. cars. Looking for a decent 64-66
auto trans shift lens for reference to reproduce.

Jim Chermack
'70 Cutlass SX W-32
'72 442
'86 Ninety Eight
'94 Cutlass Supreme
'96 C-1500
Virginia  Beach, VA
(757) 474-0869

------------------------------

From: Jim Fleeson <o455@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 09:41:05 -0300
Subject: Your Opinion Please:

Looking At The Steering Side Of Things,

I Am Going To Be Removing And Never Putting The Power Steering Pump
Back On The Car (1981 Cutlass Supreme) Because Going Straight Down
The Track For A Quarter Mile I Just Can't See Needing This Unit Any
More.

The Question Is This:

1) Can I Plug The Fittings In The Steering Knuckle And Leave It At That
?
2) Can I Fill The Steering Knuckle With Fluid And Run Tubing From
Fitting
   To Fitting, So The Knuckle Has Some Fluid In It ?
3) Do I Have To Change The Steering ?

Removing As Many Things As Possible From The DRAG On The Crank Is What
I'm After Here, Horsepower Robbing Things Like Alternators,Power
Steering
Pumps, Fans.

Just Want To Go STRAIGHT Down The Track With A BOW-TIE Chewing Big Block
Olds Is Whats Important To Me..

Awaiting Your Response(s)........

Jim

------------------------------

From: "Drew K. Bengert" <dk.bengert@sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 06:50:24 -0300
Subject: Leaving for a while

I am going on vacation for a couple of weeks.  Can anyone tell me how to
be taken off this list until I return.

I believe "unsubscribe" or something like that.

Thanks for all of the info of the last couple of months, talk to you
when I return.


Thanks


DREW

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 07:34:54 -0300
Subject: Re: Your Opinion Please:

At 09:41 AM 5/30/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Looking At The Steering Side Of Things,
>
>I Am Going To Be Removing And Never Putting The Power Steering Pump
>Back On The Car (1981 Cutlass Supreme) Because Going Straight Down
>The Track For A Quarter Mile I Just Can't See Needing This Unit Any
>More.
>
>The Question Is This:
>
>1) Can I Plug The Fittings In The Steering Knuckle And Leave It At That
>?
>2) Can I Fill The Steering Knuckle With Fluid And Run Tubing From
>Fitting
>   To Fitting, So The Knuckle Has Some Fluid In It ?
>3) Do I Have To Change The Steering ?
>
>Removing As Many Things As Possible From The DRAG On The Crank Is What
>I'm After Here, Horsepower Robbing Things Like Alternators,Power
>Steering
>Pumps, Fans.
>
>Just Want To Go STRAIGHT Down The Track With A BOW-TIE Chewing Big Block
>Olds Is Whats Important To Me..
>
>Awaiting Your Response(s)........
>
>Jim
>
Jim

         Go to a manual steering box. If you use the old power steering box
you'll have a hard time turning it at slow speeds. The manual box is lighter
than the other too. So you have two benifits. Weight and loss of static drag
on the engine.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: Jim Fleeson <o455@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 10:42:09 -0300
Subject: Re: Your Opinion Please:

James & Joanne Chermack wrote:
>
> At 09:41 AM 5/30/97 -0300, you wrote:
> >Looking At The Steering Side Of Things,
> >
> >I Am Going To Be Removing And Never Putting The Power Steering Pump
> >Back On The Car (1981 Cutlass Supreme) Because Going Straight Down
> >The Track For A Quarter Mile I Just Can't See Needing This Unit Any
> >More.
> >
> >The Question Is This:
> >
> >1) Can I Plug The Fittings In The Steering Knuckle And Leave It At That
> >?
> >2) Can I Fill The Steering Knuckle With Fluid And Run Tubing From
> >Fitting
> >   To Fitting, So The Knuckle Has Some Fluid In It ?
> >3) Do I Have To Change The Steering ?
> >
> >Removing As Many Things As Possible From The DRAG On The Crank Is What
> >I'm After Here, Horsepower Robbing Things Like Alternators,Power
> >Steering
> >Pumps, Fans.
> >
> >Just Want To Go STRAIGHT Down The Track With A BOW-TIE Chewing Big Block
> >Olds Is Whats Important To Me..
> >
> >Awaiting Your Response(s)........
> >
> >Jim
> >
> Jim
>
>          Go to a manual steering box. If you use the old power steering box
> you'll have a hard time turning it at slow speeds. The manual box is lighter
> than the other too. So you have two benifits. Weight and loss of static drag
> on the engine.
>
> Jim Chermack

Yea, Thats What I Thought To..

What Make - Model Will Work With The Original Steering Set-up
Changing All The Steering Is Not Exactly What I Was Thinkg Of...

Thanks

------------------------------

From: "mcfrlan@bconnex.net" <mcfrlan@bconnex.net>
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 08:05:15 -0300
Subject: Michael Brady

Hi Michael, I glad to see someone else on the list with some early 60's
cars's. As for me I'm in no need of parts, I have 5 Starfires, 1 98, and
1 88, all inbetween the years of 62-63. Some of them are parts cars
ofcourse and all the parts I still need are on them. Thanks for taking
the time to ask. Take care.

Cliff McFarlane
62 Oldsmobile Starfire Conv.
63 Oldsmobile Starfire Coupe.

------------------------------

From: "SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK" <FBS3@OAS.PSU.EDU>
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 09:41:01 -0300
Subject: Re: radio speaker 4x10's

Mike- could the speakers be rated at 6 ohm and this what the company 'calls'
4 or 8 ohm campatible? Could 2 ohms *really* make or break an amplifier?
Years ago I had a 70 Lemans w/ the stock am/fm an I installed aftermarket
6x9's in the bach (4 ohm speakers and and 8 ohm amp) and the radio played
happily for years.





=============================================================================
Frank.. 90 Cutlass Ciera XC Special Edition..one of 955.. White/red sedan..
        K&N, Walker Dynomax exhaust....(driver)
        65 El Camino..327/300, black/red..frame off resto..(cruiser, show car)
        95 Plymouth Neon HL sedan..dohc muffler..K&N drop in..(wifes car)
        95 Dodge Ram 2500hd 4x4..v-10..(company truck)
=============================================================================

------------------------------

From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 07:58:58 -0300
Subject: Re: Address for chat room needed

Shang wrote:
>
> John Oder wrote:
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > Could someone give me the URL for the chat room??
> >
> > John Oder
> > 70 Cutlass SX W-32
>
> http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner/oldschat.htm

Why can't I get this html file to work for me?  I keep getting
core dumps out of Netscape.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

From: kennelson5@juno.com (Ken D Nelson)
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 09:30:10 -0300
Subject: 350/455 brackets

I have a question about interchangeability. I have a '75 H/O I'm
restoring, the air conditioning compressor had been taken off. Well I
also had a '75 toro which I took the air conditioning compressor and
brackets off of for the 350.  Now all the brackets look the same but the
cast iron bracket which mounts to the head bolt, rises above the valve
cover and attaches to the intake manifold seems to miss the hole in the
intake manifold. The intake is an edelbrock  performer.
Should this bracket fit? or do I need to go to the junk yard and
get one off a 350. How about the front bracket? It seems to fit the front
holes in the head but will it work with the correct  top bracket?  Also
the engine is out of a '70 cutlass. I assume this doesn't matter.

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 13:03:08 -0300
Subject: Re: radio speaker 4x10's

SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK wrote:
>
> Mike- could the speakers be rated at 6 ohm and this what the company
> 'calls' 4 or 8 ohm campatible?

Could be.  To paraphrase Joseph Heller, "They can say anything we can't
stop them from saying"  But given the small numbers, it's quite a spread
from 4 to 8 ohms.  Also remember the impedance rating of a speaker is
_supposed_ to be a minimum impedance through out its operating range --
not an average.

> Could 2 ohms *really* make or break an amplifier?

*Could* it?  Yes.  By replacing an 8 ohm speaker with a 6 ohm, you are
decreasing the impedance by 25% or increasing the load on the amp by 33%.
Replacing a 4 ohm load with a 2 ohm, well...   Many amps won't care *if*
they were designed for the higher load.  Some will.

> Years ago I had a 70 Lemans w/ the stock am/fm an I installed
> aftermarket 6x9's in the bach (4 ohm speakers and and 8 ohm amp) and
> the radio played happily for years.

Entirely possible.  Again, it depends on the amp not the speaker.  If
your amp was happy with a 4 ohm (or even 2 ohm) load, great.  But if the
amp was designed for a minimum output impedance of 8 ohms and you stick a
4 ohm speaker on it, you're asking for trouble.  The higher load
increases the current in the output stage -- which can lead to a
meltdown.  Simple cure for old radios is to use a hidden power booster.

BTW, the shift from a 10 ohm to an 8 ohm is a decrease of 20% -- just
within the 20% tolerance of most common components of the era.

    66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 10:10:09 -0300
Subject: Re: Marty's costume party

> All of these posts came within a 45 minute timeframe, and all from the same
> computer.  The two labelled as being from "hanthorn" have "subject" in

<Rest of Charley's explanation snipped>

Mucho kudos for Greg in tracking this thing down so quickly!  I started
reading my mail this morning with growing horror at what I was seeing, until
I saw the Voice of Reason(tm) :)  announcing the perp and the summary
banishment therein.  All is well again in the Olds Federation.

Hopefully, we'll be ready when the Borg attack ;)


P.S. New Englanders:  Anyone going to Berejik this Sunday?



Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: Chuck Kapigian <chuck.kapigian@mhbc.org>
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 10:21:00 -0300
Subject: test

I have stopped receiving E-mails. Has something happened to the mail
server.

------------------------------

From: NotDads442@aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 10:33:15 -0300
Subject: Re: Some Questions

Greg,

Have you considered a GM TBI unit.  I know it doesn't offer nearly the
potenial of the TBI but I would think it would be an easier swap.  Check out
Turbo City's web site (turbocity.com I believe) they offer lots of part and
swaps for GM TBI units (enlarged TBI units, matched injectors, wiring
harness, ECMs etc...)  I would think with nothing more than an adapter plate
you could use the same intake manifold.

Also you should be aware that you will probably need a different camshaft.
 I'm no expert on this but I have been told you need a cam with a wider lobe
seperation(?) to work with the computer.  It has something to do with the
computer and vacuum I guess.  A guy I know built an engine for his Chevy P/U
and it ran like crap.  The computer didn't know what was going on because of
the type of cam he had.  When he switched to one for a computer controlled
engine it cleared up most of his problems.

Cecil
1991 W-41

>From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
>Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 02:40:49 -0300
>Subject: Re: Some Questions
>
>>I'd still like to see someone take that caddy intake for the Olds 350 and
do
>>a custom TPI for an olds block.  There is some interesting potential
there...
>>Too bad there was never a 455 version of that intake.
>
>I'm working on fuel injecting my Vista-Cruiser.  TPI actually involves
>tuning the legnth of the intake runners for optimum performance. I don't
>have the knowlege or equipment to handle that, so it'll just be the caddy
>manifold with port injection.  It should still be a big improvement in
>mileage and I hope to obtain better performance than is possible with just a
>stock 4bbl.  Anything beats the 2bbl that's on it now.  :P  I'm probably
>gonna use a c*maro TPI controller but I'm gonna learn a little bit more
>about electronic engine control before I go to the junkyard and start
>ripping the ecm and harness out of a trashed f-body.  I hope to have it fuel
>injected in time for lansing, but don't hold your breath.  I also want to
>fix the AC and beef up the 200-4R overdirive before I make the trip so I've
>got a lot to do in the next two months.
>
>I think Bob Valentine is working on an olds EFI setup too.  Maybe he's still
>on the list?
>
>Greg Pruett
>`72 Vista-Cruiser
>`67 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: kennelson5@juno.com (Ken D Nelson)
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 10:36:35 -0300
Subject: Re: Your Opinion Please:

On Fri, 30 May 1997 10:42:09 -0300 Jim Fleeson <o455@ix.netcom.com>
writes:
>James & Joanne Chermack wrote:
>>
>> At 09:41 AM 5/30/97 -0300, you wrote:
>> >Looking At The Steering Side Of Things,
>> >
>> >I Am Going To Be Removing And Never Putting The Power Steering Pump
>> >Back On The Car (1981 Cutlass Supreme) Because Going Straight Down
>> >The Track For A Quarter Mile I Just Can't See Needing This Unit Any
>> >More.
>> >
>> >The Question Is This:
>> >
>> >1) Can I Plug The Fittings In The Steering Knuckle And Leave It At
>That
>> >?
>> >2
>> on the engine.
>>
>> Jim Chermack
>
>Yea, Thats What I Thought To..
>
>What Make - Model Will Work With The Original Steering Set-up
>Changing All The Steering Is Not Exactly What I Was Thinkg Of...
>
>Thanks
>
>
I helped a friend build a m*stang drag racer 460 ci etc. he did
the power rack without the pump thing, he thought the same way , why do I
need power just going straight, well after 1/2 season he took the power
rack out and put the manual rack in. See it turns out that while your in
around the pits, on and off the trailer, tech, turning around for battery
recharge etc etc etc you do a lot of turning and a lot of it with the
motor off. Now add to this sometimes your friends don't show up and its
90 degrees out so your pushing the car and trying to steer it and you
have people behind you trying to get lane choice and cranking on the
steering wheel really gets tough. As I always found out if your going to
do the job you may as well do it right the first time, or do it again.
(hint) It always costs more to do the same job twice.
I also think that trying to steer that car with a 455 in it and a
power box  with no  power  will be a chore to say the least.
Good luck!       By the way  I drove that car, best time 9.27 @ 148 mph
1.33 60 ft.  what a ride. I also set up the 4 link,  the steering
geometry, frame and roll bar.

Ken Nelson
'75 H/O W25

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 10:52:10 -0300
Subject: Berejik's Sunday Show(was Re: Marty's costume party)

At 09:10 AM 5/30/97 -0400, you wrote:
>P.S. New Englanders:  Anyone going to Berejik this Sunday?

I'll be there with the '69 Toro ("Big Green"), but I don't think I'll be
there at 8:00am... |^)   (<- That's me having happy dreams at that time...)
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "j kimball" <jdkim@lvdi.net>
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 11:03:41 -0300
Subject: Re:  Is it worth it?

Thanks everyone for talking me into what I really wanted to do.  I can't
wait to get the before and after pictures!

Mike Rothe, if you read this - I saw a message that you could get 442
wheels for a discount.  My local dealership wants $419 apiece.  What do you
suggest?

Kaye Kimball
Las Vegas, NV

jdkim@lvdi.net

------------------------------

From: Patrick Flowers <patri63@ibm.net>
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 11:21:52 -0300
Subject: Re: Marty's costume party

Timothy A. Churchill wrote:
>
> > All of these posts came within a 45 minute timeframe, and all from the
same > > computer.  The two labelled as being from "hanthorn" have "subject"
in > > <Rest of Charley's explanation snipped> > > Mucho kudos for Greg in
tracking this thing down so quickly!  I started > reading my mail this morning
with growing horror at what I was seeing, until > I saw the Voice of
Reason(tm) :)  announcing the perp and the summary > banishment therein.  All
is well again in the Olds Federation.

I just joined the list two days ago.  Began to wonder what I had
stumbled into when the weird email started flying.  I'm glad to see that
the list is so well administered.

I know that majordomo list management is a time consuming and often
thankless task, so I want to take this opportunity to say "Thanks Greg".

<Returning to lurk mode>
Patrick
- --
Patrick Flowers    Mailto:patri63@ibm.net

------------------------------

From: Adam <awerthmi@freenet.npiec.on.ca>
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 11:24:27 -0300
Subject: 78 cutlass front bumper

Hello.  Does anyone know where i could find a front bumper (2 piece) for a
78 Cutlass coupe?

Thanks.


------------------------------

From: Steven LaCrosse <lacrosse@frontiernet.net>
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 11:10:32 -0300
Subject: engine paint

Can anyone tell me where I might be able to find High Temp engine paint
in Olds gold for a 69 442 with a 455 cid?

------------------------------

From: bryceman@442.com
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 11:56:31 -0300
Subject: Re: NGK plugs for Olds

>Anyone try them?  What part number fits?  Mondello lists NGK's as his


>part number NGK R-5670-6 but I don't know if that is NGK's or his

>personal number for them.


I went to my local parts store with this number and they looked at me
like I was crazy. They said NGK's plug numbering scheme was totally
different than the number you listed above. I got the same number from
Mondello's tech reference. Must be Mondello's own number. I looked all
over for NGK's web site to no avail. I learned that they are
manufactured by NITTOKU Engineering in Japan but NITTOKU's site is all
in Japanese. Bryceman no read Japanese. Let me know if you learn any
more on this.

           Life, Liberty and the Pursuit of Oldsmobiles

'66 Dynamic 88 B07 Apprehender  '65 442   '72 Cutlass Convertible

            Email: bryceman@442.com  URL: www.442.com

------------------------------

From: "Kerr, Brian (R)" <Brian.Kerr@toronto.basf-corp.com>
Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 02:29:52 -0300
Subject: FW: 69 Convertible

 ----------
From: O=Intermail; DDA.TYPE=RFC-822;
DDA.VALUE=oldsmobile-owner(a)chebucto.ns.ca
To: O=Intermail; DDA.TYPE=RFC-822; DDA.VALUE=oldsmobile(a)chebucto.ns.ca;
kerr
Subject: 69 Convertible
Date: Tuesday, May 27, 1997 6:49PM

DATE: May 26 00:01:10 1997 GMT
IPMessageID: 199705252354.QAA18618(a)f10.hotm

FROM: [O=Intermail; DDA.TYPE=RFC-822;
DDA.VALUE=oldsmobile-owner(a)chebucto.ns
      .ca]

AUTHORIZED: Richard Henderson [O=Intermail; DDA.TYPE=RFC-822;
DDA.VALUE=hendu6
            969(a)hotmail.com]

TO: [O=Intermail; DDA.TYPE=RFC-822; DDA.VALUE=oldsmobile(a)chebucto.ns.ca]

SUBJECT: 69 Convertible
REPLY TO: [O=Intermail; DDA.TYPE=RFC-822;
DDA.VALUE=oldsmobile(a)chebucto.ns.c
          a]

IMPORTANCE: normal
PRIORITY:
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

 --
Help! I'm looking at buying a 69 Cutlass S convertible...

I've looked at it, and it looks in good shape...

Are there any special area I should look for for problems?
I'm not too fussy about the engine, it's the body and frame I'm worried
about.
..
Where on the car should I be looking?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Richard

P.S. If anyone in Southern Ontario has a 68-72 Cutlass for sale, cheap...
mail

me with details...


 ---------------------------------------------------------
Get Your *Web-Based* Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
 ---------------------------------------------------------
I am currrently working on a 69 Cutlass S Convertible. I am just finishing
off a body rotisserie and am planning to remove the body from the frame in
the next couple of weeks. I have found on my car some of the places where
rust hides.
In between the body mount braces and the trunk floor - This may require more
than patches on the trunkfloor, it may need need rebuilding or replacement
of the body mount brace. This can get expensive. Get underneath and look at
the rear body mount braces.
Same as the body mount braces, there is potential for rust between the floor
pan brace and the floor pan. The only way to find this is to pull up the
carpet.
The front fenders are notorius for rust at the bottom due to plugged drain
holes, and the body metal behind the fender is also subject to the same
problems. Both of these areas are easy to fix.
 Trunk extensions are easily overlooked but are not a big deal to replace.
If the top leaks, and you have evidence of this in the carpet or door
panels, be concerned about the condition of the floor pans in the front. I
had just enough rust under my feet on  driver side that I bought half a
floor pan. $95 (Can$)
I have not got to my frame yet but it appears to be in good shape as the car
was throwing so much oil out the rear main seal it got a pretty good rust
proofing. Seems that the previous owner couldn,t bother to fix it, he just
kept pouring in more oil.
The front of the hood can be a great spot for water collection, and also
watch for rust and cracking or crushing over the hood stops. There's alot of
weight hanging out over the front resulting in a real stress point there.
One way to find out what cars are available in S Ont is to join the local
chapter of the Olds club, send me your Email address and I'll give you the
membership details. As I'm always looking for parts etc  if I come a cross
one of these cars, I'll email you direct. Its always nice to find another
Olds guy in Ontario. You can Email me direct at kerrb@basf-corp.com

Restoration of 69 Cutlass S convertible
Licence tag -    BKS  69

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª700
********************************
