To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #704


oldsmobile-digest           Monday, 2 June 1997        Volume 01 : Number 704

The Mech-guy's carb (was Dan Lacey's carb)
Re: Tech Tip
FluidDamper
Re: Valve Rotators.
Re: Mac. Fuel Pump
Re: The Oldsmobile Product Dissatisfaction List
Re: Tech Tip
Re: The Oldsmobile Product Dissatisfaction List
shocks
Cam Question for 350
Super stock 1
Listing your Club with CarClubs.com
66 Cutlass-Power Steering Help
Re: Tech Tip
Heat stove question...
Re: Heat stove question...
Re: The Oldsmobile Product Dissatisfaction List
Re: Tech Tip
Re: FluidDamper
Re: Tech Tip
olds for sale in PNW(portland or)
Re: Detailing Info Needed
73 cutlass exhaust
Re: Valve Rotators.
Re: Tech Tip
Re: FluidDamper
Shoulder belts
Re: 66 Cutlass-Power Steering Help
Hurst VIN
Spindle interchange
Re: FluidDamper
Re: Cam Question for 350
New stuff
Re: The Oldsmobile Product Dissatisfaction List
axle differences
Oil Pressure
Question ???
cowl info needed
Look at this + Carb Question
Re: FluidDamper
Re: Some Questions
Re: Cam Question for 350
FYI - Add Same Brand of Oil Between Changes
Re: Look at this + Carb Question
Re: 1961 98 Sport Sedan Parts Wanted
Re: TESTING Do not READ
Re: shocks
Re: cowl info needed
Re: Question ???
Re: Some Questions
Re: Look at this + Carb Question
Re: TESTING Do not READ
Re: Some Questions
Re: Look at this + Carb Question
Re: Look at this + Carb Question
Re: Oil Pressure
Re: FluidDamper

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 02:48:04 -0300
Subject: The Mech-guy's carb (was Dan Lacey's carb)

Now are you a full warrior or just another merc?

Anyway, if I am right in assuming that you are running your 425 with
Edelbrock Performer intake _and_ Performer camshaft, then yes. A basic 750cfm
might be sufficient, but not more. In suggesting a 750 cfm to Mr. Lacey, I
was assuming a stock engine. I personally could not justify going over 750cfm
in my own engine since I do not have dual exhaust (this too shall come to
pass). My intuition is that better intake helps little if the exhaust cannot
go anywhere.

Also on the carb subject (and thanks Dr. Bob for posting a brief
how-to-decode-the-numbers-missive) there is an authorized Holley distributor
near me that I shall visit during the ensuing week, any catalogues or manuals
I pick up will be offered to the list. Further, I have placed two links on my
web page for other web sites which are Ecatalogues for Rochester tecnical
manuals.

KarlAune
1965 Dynamic 88
Chicago, IL

http://members.aol.com/KarlAunan/index.html

------------------------------

From: Shang <shoover@flash.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 02:53:52 -0300
Subject: Re: Tech Tip

mrada wrote:
>
> Douglas Kitchener wrote:
>
> > Oops, almost forgot, re disc brake convertions on '69-'72 Cutlasses, you
_CAN'T_ > > do it without changing the spindles to the disc ones, they're
different!  I've > > done 3 of 'em myself.  If anyone says differently,I'd
_love_ to know how you did > > it, please get in touch with me.  And I'm
almost certain that you can't > > remachine a drum brake spindle into a disc
brake one; if memory serves, the hole > > in the drum spindle for the anchor
pin is _larger_ than the corresponding hole > > in the disk spindle, altho I
may be wrong on this, been a long time. > > Here we go again.  Boy I sure get
confused!  I think Mike Rothe (?) > stated that the > spindles were
interchangable.  Could someone get a definitive answer. > My head is >
spinning. :-) > > Later... > > Chris Sparks > > 68 442 > 82 DRB



I will back that one up. Did three of them myself. The spindles ARE
DIFFERENT from drums to disc. The top anchor bolt hole is recessed on
the disc brake spindle.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

From: Shang <shoover@flash.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 02:55:00 -0300
Subject: FluidDamper

Has anyone bought a Fluid Damper for there Olds motor? What are your
thoughts on it? Worth the $350 they want for it, or stick with stock?


Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 03:01:06 -0300
Subject: Re: Valve Rotators.

In a message dated 97-05-27 18:13:34 EDT, you write:

>
>  This is what I make everyday at the TRW Rotator Assembly Plant in
Mogadore,
>  Ohio. Needless to say I hate them ;-) I got lots of info, literature,
>  blueprints, specs, etc, on rotators. What do you want to know? The rotator
>  consists of a body, spring, washer, and collar. Sometimes they are also
>  assembled with rings, lockrings, ball bearings and double washers. All
>  depends on type and customer.
>
>
I would like to know a few things.


1) What are valve rotators?

2) Are you privvy to specs on other TRW products?

TIA

Karl Aune
1965 Dynamic 88
Chicago, IL

http://members.aol.com/KarlAunan/index.html

------------------------------

From: "Luke Hogan" <hogan442@c-gate.net>
Date: Sat, 31 May 1997 17:19:10 -0300
Subject: Re: Mac. Fuel Pump



- ----------
> At 01:59 PM 5/31/97 -0300, you wrote:
> >
> >
> >----------
> >> At 02:30 PM 5/30/97 -0300, you wrote:
> >> >  Hi guys,
>
> >>          This is to update you guys on what kind-of
> >> >luck i've been having with the Olds. For starters i had a noise that
> >> >sounded like a bad lifter or a worn rocker arm strap or a bad valve
seat
> >.
> >> >Well none of this was the problem, i did go ahead & pull the motor to
fix
> >> >all the problems that i came across such as the cam walking back &
forth
> >&
> >> >the oil pump pick-up sceen coved with gasket material & adhesive plus
one
> >> >end of the cottor pin that holds the oil press. spring in the pump.
After
> >> >all this work & future prevention measures i still have this noise
that
> >> >i'am begining to think is coming from the fuel pump.            Has
> >anybody
> >> >had a fuel pump make a noise like this before? If so what to do to
stop
> >the
> >> >problem, short of buying a new one? Thank for your time & h*lp. Luke
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>    Could very well be the fuel pump.  I put a newly rebuilt pump in a
> >fresh
> >> motor and had a ticking sound develop.  It's not that uncommon.  What
> >> happens is that the pump arm that follows the cam lobe is spring loaded
> >but
> >> if it is binding internally in the pump or the spring is weak it will
not
> >> follow the lobe completely because it is hanging up while deactuating.
 So
> >> as the highest point on the lobe comes around to push the pump arm
again,
> >> the arm not being seated on the lobe as it should, will get hit by it
> >> causing the tick. It sometimes sounds like a noisy lifter. The noise
will
> >> probably not get much worse but as the binding increases so does the
loss
> >of
> >> fuel pressure.
> >>    If you suspect this to be the problem you will want to replace the
> >pump.
> >> They aren't that expensive.  You have a choice of used, rebuilt or
new.
> >>
> >>
> >>    Glenn
> >>    '69 4-4-2
> >>
> >
> >    Well i did a little test day on the Olds. I fired her up & warmed her
> >up a bit then  killed it ( you know to prime the carb. & all), took the
> >fuel pump off & had my girlfriend fire it off while i took a squirt
bottle
> >filled with gas to keep it running to see if i still had the noise, well
i
> >do , still have the noise that is. There it'nt a whole-lot-a things left
> >that  could be making this noise. I'am begining to think it's a bad wrist
> >pin. This is just like my luck. Luke
> >
> >
>
>   Luke,
>
>     Sorry if I misled you but at least you have eliminated the fuel pump
as
> the cause. Can you be more specific as to the type of noise (whistle,
groan,
> moan, knock, tick, ding, ping, grinding, grating, scraping, etc.) and you
> may want to try to localize it but using the old wooden stick to the ear
> method.  ** CAUTION **  Be sure that you don't get the stick near a moving
> part when it is against your ear or any body part for that matter.  Sound
> travels nicely in that environment and an audio aid/tool will probably
help
> in diagnosing it's source.  There is such a tool that is very similar to a
> doctors stethoscope except instead of a disc at the receiving end there
is a
> metal probe which greatly helps in pin pointing the source of the sound.
>    Waiting to here back as to some more detail.
>
>   Glenn
>   '69 4-4-2
>

    Glenn i've used that tool you are talking about & the only place i can
get a good sound out-of is the fuel pump. It sounds like a bad lifter but i
have checked the lifters for leakage (not holding firm) & wear. There is
none at all. This motor has about 4000 miles on it. When i had it out of
the car i started to go ahead & put new main & rod bearings in. Oh well i
guess i'll pull the motor one more time & replace all the bearings & wrist
pins & check the  rings to. Thanks for the h*lp. Luke

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 03:32:23 -0300
Subject: Re: The Oldsmobile Product Dissatisfaction List

At 01:02 AM 6/1/97 -0400, you wrote:
>If there is sufficient interest out there in Oldsmobile land (the sky is
>Ocean Mist in my world!) I will volunteer to delegate a portion of my website
>to a product review page.

That would be a great idea! First-hand experience with products/dealers is
the most valuable resource for me when I'm considering a product or service.

>Please indicate pro or con for this concept.

Pro.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 03:32:20 -0300
Subject: Re: Tech Tip

At 10:43 PM 5/31/97 -0400, you wrote:
>> Oops, almost forgot, re disc brake convertions on '69-'72 Cutlasses, you
_CAN'T_
>> do it without changing the spindles to the disc ones, they're different!
I've
>> done 3 of 'em myself.  If anyone says differently,I'd _love_ to know how
you did
>> it, please get in touch with me.  And I'm almost certain that you can't
>> remachine a drum brake spindle into a disc brake one; if memory serves,
the hole
>> in the drum spindle for the anchor pin is _larger_ than the corresponding
hole
>> in the disk spindle, altho I may be wrong on this, been a long time.

When you say "anchor pin", I think of the pin that holds the brake shoe to
the backing plate on a drum-brake setup; that's obviously not what you're
referring to. What do you mean by "anchor pin"?
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Luke Hogan" <hogan442@c-gate.net>
Date: Sat, 31 May 1997 18:01:07 -0300
Subject: Re: The Oldsmobile Product Dissatisfaction List

- ----------
> At 01:02 AM 6/1/97 -0400, you wrote:
> >If there is sufficient interest out there in Oldsmobile land (the sky is
> >Ocean Mist in my world!) I will volunteer to delegate a portion of my
website
> >to a product review page.
>
> That would be a great idea! First-hand experience with products/dealers is
> the most valuable resource for me when I'm considering a product or
service.
>
> >Please indicate pro or con for this concept.
>
> Pro.
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
>

 I like what i'am hearing. Luke

------------------------------

From: "Suzanne Rousseau" <ewok@clarkston.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 05:20:05 -0300
Subject: shocks

Has anyone had any experience with the Monroe Sens-a-trac shocks?  Or
perhaps the Edelbrock IAS shocks?  I'm needing all 4 for my 442 and want a
good, highway cruising shock absorber.  If not these kind, please put forth
you experiences with other kinds of shocks.

I think I read from a post a few weeks ago that the air shocks are not very
good for traction?  Am I correct on this?  Would I need an adjustable shock
for the rear to replace the air-shocks with?

Thanks..

Paul Rousseau
*1967 442

------------------------------

From: mjones@dragon.gleep.com
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 05:45:38 -0300
Subject: Cam Question for 350

Okay, probably going to build up my first engine this summer, and it'll
probably be an Olds 350 (no ch*vies for me) simply because I won't break
my college-student budget :)..  but I have a cam question.  I will run
an Edelbrock manifold on the engine, should I get the matching Performer
Plus cam for this engine or should I go wotk a Mondello 16-18?

Stats for Edelbrock Performer-Plus cam kit

               Intake        Exhaust
Duration:      280           290
Duration@0.50: 204           214
lift:          .448          .472
Lob seperation:        114 deg.

JM16-18 cam:

Lift           .472         .488
duration       (I believe close to the edelbrock one)
Lobe seperation: either 110 or 112
(sorry, pretty vague on mondello equipment)

The car that this engine would probably go into is my '78 Delta 88,
which currently has a 350, a TH350 and a 2.41 rearend (probably be
swapped over to a 3.08 or higher numerically in a few years

Mike Jones
'78 Olds delta 88

------------------------------

From: hot69w30@webtv.net (david harmon)
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 06:03:52 -0300
Subject: Super stock 1

  I need one super stock 1 wheel for a spare. maybe left from a crash or
something . If you have only one you don't need let me know.14x6

------------------------------

From: Chuck Barnow <chuck@hotrodparts.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 10:59:59 -0300
Subject: Listing your Club with CarClubs.com

Chuck Barnow
To: fordv8club@aol.com
Subject: Listing your Club with us FREE

We would like to invite you to list your Club with us F R E E at
http://carclubs.com/carclubs.htm. We are working to be the Largest Car Club
listing on the WWW and need your help to get there.  We will also link your
E-Mail and Web Site if you have one.  We also offer a section for Club
Event's.  Just click on http://carclubs.com/clubform.htm and fill in the
blanks and you will be listed in one of the Hottest Spots for Car Clubs on the
WWW.

If you do not have a Web Site for your Club we can help with that also,
just drop us a line at chuck@carclubs.com

Regards;

Chuck Barnow
chuck@carclubs.com

------------------------------

From: Robert Knowles <bigrob@flash.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 11:42:28 -0300
Subject: 66 Cutlass-Power Steering Help

 I need to know what I did wrong with my power steering pump. I removed it
to paint it..and now when I reinstalled it , it doesn't seem to work at all.
I need some advice on what to do to get it working. PLease help

P.S. Sorry for my crappy spelling in my last post.
                                                                       Rober
t Knowles
                                                                       Ft.Wo
rth, Tx
                                                                       66'
Cutlass

------------------------------

From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 11:56:15 -0300
Subject: Re: Tech Tip

On the big cars from 67-70, the drum and disc spindles are definitely
different.
There is a horizontal interference between the spindle and the rotor a little
way (moving from center to outer diameter) into the machined portion of the
rotor. You could potentially have it machined off (see Hot C*maro Rod's
article on "heavy metal" about a year or so ago), but why not just get the
right thing. Have it magnafluxed to check for cracks though before using,
remember, it had a full life before you put it in _your_ car.

Hope this helps.
cf


>Douglas Kitchener wrote:
>
>> Oops, almost forgot, re disc brake convertions on '69-'72 Cutlasses, you
>>_CAN'T_
>> do it without changing the spindles to the disc ones, they're different!
>>I've
>> done 3 of 'em myself.  If anyone says differently,I'd _love_ to know how
>>you did
>> it, please get in touch with me.  And I'm almost certain that you can't
>> remachine a drum brake spindle into a disc brake one; if memory serves,
>>the hole
>> in the drum spindle for the anchor pin is _larger_ than the
>>corresponding hole
>> in the disk spindle, altho I may be wrong on this, been a long time.
>
>Here we go again.  Boy I sure get confused!  I think Mike Rothe (?)
>stated that the
>spindles were interchangable.  Could someone get a definitive answer.
>My head is
>spinning. :-)
>
>Later...
>
>Chris Sparks
>
>68 442
>82 DRB

------------------------------

From: "Brian Lorway" <blorway@rust.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 12:00:59 -0300
Subject: Heat stove question...

Did the carb heat stove on the passenger side exhaust manifold of a 455 get
painted at the factory or was it left unpainted? Any help on this is
appreciated.

Regards,
Brian

1970 4-4-2 W-30, 4-Speed
1971 4-4-2 W-30, Convertible
OCA ª 028157

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 12:54:31 -0300
Subject: Re: Heat stove question...

At 12:00 PM 6/1/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Did the carb heat stove on the passenger side exhaust manifold of a 455 get
>painted at the factory or was it left unpainted? Any help on this is
>appreciated.
>
>Regards,
>Brian
>
>1970 4-4-2 W-30, 4-Speed
>1971 4-4-2 W-30, Convertible
>OCA ª 028157
>
Brian

        It's suppose to be natural metal. That's why 3/4 of then rusted
away. Try to find a good high heat clearcoat and install it.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 07:56:13 -0300
Subject: Re: The Oldsmobile Product Dissatisfaction List

KarlAunan@aol.com wrote:
>
> This is an Idea ([in my opinion this is a word that should always be
> capitalized]) that has been bouncing around in my head and causing my
roomate > to shout "Will you stop making that noise in your brain!" > > The
origins of this Idea are manifold (unintentional witticism). My 4bbl >
carb/manifold project (yes, still ongoing [realized auto insurance was due >
soon]) caused me to look into what types of manifold gaskets were available. >
Mr. J2RKT expressed to me his displeasure with one of the three or four types >
of manifold gaskets that the M-Man offers. I was just now reading some >
backdated Email (I set aside the interesting subject headings, I am never >
gonna get a "you have mail" declaration!) and found Dr. Bob's recommendation >
for buying the M-man's (again) cylinder head porting kit. These are exactly >
the sorts of tidbits that engine builders need to know. > > If there is
sufficient interest out there in Oldsmobile land (the sky is > Ocean Mist in
my world!) I will volunteer to delegate a portion of my website > to a product
review page. This is not going out of my way very much, because > I have been
adding just about all the Olds or general automotive links that I > could to
my main page as I could find. > > I forsee the main format would be
essentially thus; under the heading of the > product (or possibly buisiness),
a very few words concerning the specific > failure, or value of that product
or service. I think that a service listing > might include that muffler shop
that provided a listmember (per a vaguely > remembered recent Email) with
pre-bent exhaust pipes that fit perfectly for > his (late 60's or early 70's
?) application, using only the OEM specs. > > Please indicate pro or con for
this concept. > > Karl Aune > 1965 Dynamic 88 > Chicago, IL > >
http://members.aol.com/KarlAunan/index.html

Karl,

I would be very happy to read pro & con on products, methods, suppliers,
& combinations of the above.  I wouldn't want to read tiatribes on what
a low down cur so-and-so may be.  If service were sub-par, then I would
want ot know this.  I just don't have a real need to hear runor &
inuendo.

Good luck on the project.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 11:39:21 -0300
Subject: Re: Tech Tip

Shang wrote:
>
> I will back that one up. Did three of them myself. The spindles ARE
> DIFFERENT from drums to disc. The top anchor bolt hole is recessed on
> the disc brake spindle.

Replacing everything from the spindle out makes it too costly to replace
(for me).  If I could reuse some of the parts from my drums, then the
cost would be reasonable.  Oh well, I guess I'll have to stay with drums
then.  Even if I went to the junk yards looking for spindles, I would
have
no way to take them off the car.

Later...

Chris Sparks
68 442
82 DRB

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 07:58:19 -0300
Subject: Re: FluidDamper

Shang wrote:
>
> Has anyone bought a Fluid Damper for there Olds motor? What are your
> thoughts on it? Worth the $350 they want for it, or stick with stock?
>
> Stephen Hoover
> Dallas, Texas
> '70 Cutlass "S"

Stephen,

Oldsmobiles can run so well & smoothly.  I personally wouldn't want to
use a band-aid to cover some failing in this fine engine.  You'll be
repairing the failing anyway.  Why spend another $350 of your hard
earned money?

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 08:20:49 -0300
Subject: Re: Tech Tip

mrada wrote:
>
> Shang wrote:
> >
> > I will back that one up. Did three of them myself. The spindles ARE
> > DIFFERENT from drums to disc. The top anchor bolt hole is recessed on
> > the disc brake spindle.
>
> Replacing everything from the spindle out makes it too costly to replace
> (for me).  If I could reuse some of the parts from my drums, then the
> cost would be reasonable.  Oh well, I guess I'll have to stay with drums
> then.  Even if I went to the junk yards looking for spindles, I would
> have
> no way to take them off the car.
>
> Later...
>
> Chris Sparks
> 68 442
> 82 DRB

Chris,

I've had everything removed by the yarde & spent about $75.  I
resurfaced the rotors (approx. $15), bought new pads (approx. $15), new
hoses (approx. $30), & new master cylinder (approx. $30) for a total
of............................................................................
.....................................................................$165.
The work isn't hard & can be done w/ordinary tools.  You would need some of
these parts in restoring your car anyway (master cylinder, brake shoes, hoses,
turn drums).  The cost isn't out of line at all.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: SPotter596@aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 15:13:59 -0300
Subject: olds for sale in PNW(portland or)

While scouring the paper this am I came across the following which may be of
interest for any of you like minded's.I'll keep the originals if anyone wants
more details.
68 cutlass s convert project w/new parts  3k
66 98 convert w/425 pristine7700 firm

heavy metal under 1k includes
76 starfire 58k 2dr hatch 950
78 cutlass 500
78 cutlass w/305 425(need motor work)
78 cutlass w/c*m*ro eng/trans 999
79 cutlass cruiser wagon straight runs good 500
81 cutlass diesel dead199
83 88 250
83 wagon895
77 toro runs drives 495


Advise if any interest . would be happy to get any photos to anyone while
traveling around the state anyway.

steve potter
65 f-85 (poor mans fake 442)
65 cutlass(dead/donating)

------------------------------

From: Chris Matthes <cdogg73@elknet.net>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 03:12:17 -0300
Subject: Re: Detailing Info Needed

At 05:19 PM 5/31/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Have 78-98 w/single coat white urethane paint 3 yrs old-no garage-hand
>washed weeky all year-hand waxed with paste 6X year. NY weather.
>
>Notice a deterioration in finish of paint + deisel provides constant
>source of soot (in & out). Some ghost stains from birds & trees.
>
>Hand work not working-needs something more-Probably some type mildly
>aggressive cleaning/light compounding.
>
>Would like an in-detail description including product description from
>experienced person/s on how to-clean/machine clean/compound/wax, swirl &
>star free.
>
>Have variable speed 0-2500 non-orbital and 2500 orbital machines
>available to me.
>
>Thank you.
>Kevin O'Brien
>
>
sounds to me like your paint is in pretty good shape, what I think you need
to take out those stains is a prodduct made by 3M called Finesse-It, you
should be able to find it at most large auto parts retailers.  It'll cost
you an arm and a leg, but it is well worth it.  apply a bead of the finesse
to the area you want done, work it in with your non orbital buffer, then
wipe it clean.. you can do your entire car like this if you think it is in
need of it.  Then i would recomend that you go over the car with Meguiar's
Mirror Glaze  ( a cleaner/wax ) then a few coats of your favorite paste
wax, if prefer Meguiar's myself.

Chris Matthes
73 Cutlass

------------------------------

From: Chris Matthes <cdogg73@elknet.net>
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 03:20:06 -0300
Subject: 73 cutlass exhaust

hello again all you 73 cutlass owners, you may remember me from my hedder
problems of the past year... well great news, the hedders are on, tighter
than a... well you know.  anyway, now my custom flowmaster exhaust is the
problem, it seems that one hedder hangs lower than the other, and well you
get the idea of what kind of problems that causes with the H pipe and
everything... so i am wondering if any of y'all have this exhaust from
flowmaster, and how did you make it fit?  it's the 2.5" universal 64-74 A
body.

Chris Matthes
73 Cutlass

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 15:36:50 -0300
Subject: Re: Valve Rotators.

At 03:01 AM 6/1/97 -0300, KarlAunan@aol.com wrote:

>I would like to know a few things.
>
>
>1) What are valve rotators?

They rotote the intake and exhaust valves to provide equal wear on them. It
allows for longer life of the valve and less depositing of stuffin just one
area of the valve, the rotators make it a more uniform wear.
>
>2) Are you privvy to specs on other TRW products?

No
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, OH  f-body list since: 5/95
93 Camaro Z/28........Patriot Red, A4, 3.23, PEG2,  TFX cat-back, 160 stat,
homeade cold air intake, !TB, fan switch, Mobil 1 fluids, light covers
http://www.kxan.com/~rwillis/labay.html ..13.402@101.2
80 Olds 442 W-30........http://www.442.com./labay.htm ...show car

------------------------------

From: Shang <shoover@flash.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 11:49:01 -0300
Subject: Re: Tech Tip

mrada wrote:
>
> Shang wrote:
> >
> > I will back that one up. Did three of them myself. The spindles ARE
> > DIFFERENT from drums to disc. The top anchor bolt hole is recessed on
> > the disc brake spindle.
>
> Replacing everything from the spindle out makes it too costly to replace
> (for me).  If I could reuse some of the parts from my drums, then the
> cost would be reasonable.  Oh well, I guess I'll have to stay with drums
> then.  Even if I went to the junk yards looking for spindles, I would
> have
> no way to take them off the car.
>
> Later...
>
> Chris Sparks
> 68 442
> 82 DRB



Why would not have anyway to take them of the car? Take your pliers,
your ratchet and sockets, and a hammer and pickle fork. In a junkyard,
you have the luxury of not caring how you leave the car. The sway-bar
end links and the shocks are strong enough to hold the arms together for
you, but will still allow you to pull the spindles out :) Besides, if
you are pressed for money (and I wished I personally knew someone who
wasn't :) ) then buy parts as you can afford them. Its no big deal to go
back and add them later.


Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

From: Shang <shoover@flash.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 11:50:23 -0300
Subject: Re: FluidDamper

> Stephen,
>
> Oldsmobiles can run so well & smoothly.  I personally wouldn't want to
> use a band-aid to cover some failing in this fine engine.  You'll be
> repairing the failing anyway.  Why spend another $350 of your hard
> earned money?
>
> Bill Culp
> Decatur, Alabama


Good point, I umm, failed to mention that I was planning on buying one
at the time of a rebuild. That change anything?

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

From: "Suzanne Rousseau" <ewok@clarkston.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 16:25:53 -0300
Subject: Shoulder belts

Now that my 442 is finally coming together, I'm going to be needing seat
belts.  I could go with original lap belts, but would rather have shoulder
harnesses.  Does anyone know if it would be possible to swap them from
perhaps a Camaro/Firebird [f course, only cause they are a dime a dozen, No
offense Jason L.  ;-) ]  Also, what years of cutlass' had shoulder belts?
70's and 80's Cutlasses are not hard to come by around here.

Thanks

Paul Rousseau
*1967 442

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 17:09:12 -0300
Subject: Re: 66 Cutlass-Power Steering Help

On Sun, 1 Jun 1997, Robert Knowles wrote:
>  I need to know what I did wrong with my power steering pump. I removed it
> to paint it..and now when I reinstalled it , it doesn't seem to work at all.
> I need some advice on what to do to get it working. PLease help

Geez, I recently did this myself. The pump looks great now. I can only
think of a few things and they sound so simple I'm almost afraid to
mention it. But here goes:

1. Enough fluid in the pump?

2. Belt not too loose?

3. Hoses on correctly?

4. Something blocking the fluid fittings on the steering gear?

On mine we bolted it back up after painting it and filled it about 1/2
full of fluid and it worked almost right away. I can't think of anything
else that might be causing it. Good luck.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 17:33:11 -0300
Subject: Hurst VIN

Mailer-daemon@aol.com wrote:
>
> The mail you sent could not be delivered to:
> 550 hifflyr442@aol.com is not a known user
>
> The text you sent follows:
>

> >
> >
> > My 72 Olds has VIN starting with ST 72 34247LAN with a W45 code on the
> > cowl.  It is supposed to be a Hurst w/sunroof and has all the striping,
> > etc.  My Encyclopedia of American Cars since 1930 says all Cutlass
> > Supreme coupes had a coding of 3J57.  What do other people with a 72
> > "Hurst" have on their VIN?  Did Olds ship left over white 71 Cutlass
> > bodies etc. to be reworked by Hurst or has someone gone to a lot of
> > trouble to convert mine  complete with rust, old striping, etc.?
> > Information and/or explanations greatly appreciated.  Thank you for your
> > time.
> >
> > Don Sowers
> > 69 Cutlass S conv
> > 70 Cutlass Supreme conv
> > 72 Hurst I think
> > 71 GS 455 conv
> > 83 RX-7
> > 5 Lincolns
> > and a bunch of other stuff

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 17:59:20 -0300
Subject: Spindle interchange

Boy howdy.  It appears that I could be a "knuckle" head!

This seems to be a mystery topic.  Having only owned one front drum
Cutlass in my life, I didn't like it, so I got the necessary disc stuff
for the conversion.  I checked the numbers on the knuckle itself, and
they matched the ones on the car.  I took all the bolt-on stuff off the
existing knuckle, and bolted the adapter, backing plate and everything
else in place.  I proceeded to bolt on the other stuff, such as hoses,
hose brackets, and master cyl., proportioning valve, etc. into place.
Bled the brakes and then the car stopped like new.  Not one problem.
Then I sold the car about a  year later.  Say what you want, but it DID
work for me in that instance.

My first question, since I have only done this once in my life; did I
run across a half-breed knuckle, or was it some fluke of nature?  I will
NOT dispute others saying the knuckles are different.  Just to be on the
safe side, use the disc knuckles for sure.  And for sure, I would NEVER
advise anyone to do something that was not completely safe.  I only
stated that it could be done, since I experienced first-hand what it
took to do the conversion.  I was NOT aware that there are differences
in the knuckle itself, since it worked for me with no problems.  If I
was wrong, then I apologize for my error.

My second question is, staying on the subject of disc brakes, what is
the difference between the 69 442 w/JL2 disc brake knuckle assemblies
and the 69 H/O w/JL2 assemblies?  The assembly manual lists different
codes and part numbers for each.  Anyone know?

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: katana72@juno.com (Rob T)
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 18:05:31 -0300
Subject: Re: FluidDamper

On Sun, 1 Jun 1997 02:55:00 -0300 Shang <shoover@flash.net> writes:
>Has anyone bought a Fluid Damper for there Olds motor? What are your
>thoughts on it? Worth the $350 they want for it, or stick with stock?
>
>
>Stephen Hoover
>Dallas, Texas
>'70 Cutlass "S"

I believe that if you  are racing your Oldsmobile and fall within certain
time categories, you are REQUIRED to have something along the lines of a
fluid dampner. I know of a friend that has one for his Olds, but couldn't
tell you what he really thinks of it. He Bracket Races out in Virginia.
Check the NHRA rulebook to be certain. I don't think it would really be
necessary for the street applications.

Katana72

------------------------------

From: katana72@juno.com (Rob T)
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 18:05:32 -0300
Subject: Re: Cam Question for 350

On Sun, 1 Jun 1997 05:45:38 -0300 mjones@gleep.com writes:
>Okay, probably going to build up my first engine this summer, and
>it'll
>probably be an Olds 350 (no ch*vies for me) simply because I won't
>break
>my college-student budget :)..  but I have a cam question.  I will run
>an Edelbrock manifold on the engine, should I get the matching
>Performer
>Plus cam for this engine or should I go wotk a Mondello 16-18?
>
>Stats for Edelbrock Performer-Plus cam kit
>
>               Intake        Exhaust
>Duration:      280           290
>Duration@0.50: 204           214
>lift:          .448          .472
>Lob seperation:        114 deg.
>
>JM16-18 cam:
>
>Lift           .472         .488
>duration       (I believe close to the edelbrock one)
>Lobe seperation: either 110 or 112
>(sorry, pretty vague on mondello equipment)
>
>The car that this engine would probably go into is my '78 Delta 88,
>which currently has a 350, a TH350 and a 2.41 rearend (probably be
>swapped over to a 3.08 or higher numerically in a few years
>
>Mike Jones
>'78 Olds delta 88
That's similar to my cam in my 72 Cutlass. I have higher lift , though.
My bottom end still sucks!!! I don't make any aggressive power until 3000
rpm. I would look at a custom grind with more overlap so you can get
better off the line performance.
>

------------------------------

From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 15:54:14 -0300
Subject: New stuff

That '92 Cutlass I own (just paid off) has a problem. I think that the
oil pump is fixin' to go AWOL. Coming home from church today I noticed
my check gauges light. I was in a lot of stop and go traffic and the
engine temp was around 200. I had to keep the rpms up to about 2,000 to
keep the oil needle out of the red. When the rpms dropped to idle the
gauge would drop to nil and the car would shake. If anyone knows
anything else that could cause this I can sure use any advice.

BTW, my '69 cutlass had over 225,000 miles on it. Only a timing chain
and a couple of lifters were ever changed. How is that the oil pump can
go out after 118,000 on this car? Oh, it's a 3.1. The good news is I get
to drive the Experience for a while :).

Danny

70 442
70 W-30 442
92 Cutlass with a heart condition.

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 19:02:49 -0300
Subject: Re: The Oldsmobile Product Dissatisfaction List

In a message dated 97-06-01 12:07:34 EDT, you write:

>
>  I would be very happy to read pro & con on products, methods, suppliers,
>  & combinations of the above.  I wouldn't want to read tiatribes on what
>  a low down cur so-and-so may be.  If service were sub-par, then I would
>  want ot know this.  I just don't have a real need to hear runor &
>  inuendo.
>

I have alredy considered this. The proposed page would _not_ be a bulletin
board. Furthermore, it is my intent to ensure that listings contain very
specific details of definite shortcomings rather than a vague bashing which
really serves no purpose.

A possible compromise might be to list the exact number of people who express
vague dissatisfaction.

One drawback to this plan is that I will experience a radical transition in
approx. two months and may be off line for an indeterminate period of time.
Just an offhand thought on future difficulties.

Karl Aune
1965 Dynamic 88
Chicago, IL

I do not have a joke here, I just enjoy saying curmudgeon.

------------------------------

From: "Suzanne Rousseau" <ewok@clarkston.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 19:39:26 -0300
Subject: axle differences

Does anyone know the hub to hub widths of the B/P and C type axles?  I
measured my spare O axle today and it was 61-15/16".  I need to know
because I'm gonna fit large 275-295 wide tires on my 442, and if I change
axles later I want to make sure that the tires will still fit.  If I
remember right, I think that the O axle is about 1/4" wider than the B/P
axle, is this correct?  The only reason I would want a Ch*vy (blasphemy, i
confess) axle is that the damn things are so plentiful, and it's not too
hard to find an anti-spin unit.

Until next time...

Paul Rousseau
*1967 442

------------------------------

From: Tom Williams <tjwilli@megavision.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 19:45:51 -0300
Subject: Oil Pressure

Hi All,
   I was out driving last night around town for a while when I happened
to look down and notice my oil pressure guage was bouncing around from
65psi down to around 45psi while giving the car gas. Also when at idle
the car almost always hold around 40psi, but when sitting still at a red
light noticed the guage bouncing around 25psi. I checked the oil
pressure line going to the guage and no leaks found, also checked the
oil and it was clean and full. Engine has approx: 700 miles on the
overhaul so would not think it is the oil pump. Any suggestions on how
to tell if it is the oil pump or guage or what????. Would  prefer to not
pull pump if I do not have to but will do so if needed. If oil pressure
guage is bad would it not drop the oil pressure down to 0?
Sorry for so long a question, but looking for answers.

Thanks
Tom Williams
70 W-31

------------------------------

From: "Richard Cadille" <rcadille@wzrd.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 20:22:10 -0300
Subject: Question ???

Found your e-mail address on the internet.  My mother (original owner) has
a 1978 Olds Cutlass Supreme Brogham that just hit 54,000 miles.  260 V-8,
loaded, no
rust.  She stores it every winter, so it hasn't seen any NY snow!  We would
like to sell it.  We really don't know what it is worth either.  Can you
make a few suggestions.  I have photos and am willing to advertise.
Question is where?  Thanks for any assistance you can render.  Rich
Cadille,  e-mail  rcadille@wzrd.com  phone 716-283-5151 in Niagara Falls,
NY

------------------------------

From: Yorcoy@aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 20:29:45 -0300
Subject: cowl info needed

any help would be appreciated!
ST 70-34267  BF  00073(1)
TR 977              58 A
09D   031801  280278
Thanks

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 20:58:11 -0300
Subject: Look at this + Carb Question

http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/cut_bl.html

This new addition has quite the under-the hood color scheme that people
should view!  It's under 100K, but being a table it takes a bit for
anything to show up (I think they should look at fixing it!)

It's all in my pursuit of OEM standards.

Carb Question:
I finally got my 455 Cutlass going, and it just don't have the power.  It
surges and sputters like it needs more fuel under heavy acceleration.
When not under heavy load, it sounds quite good and seems to run quite
well.  I believe it's a '76 455 98 carb on it on a '75 455, how can I
tell.  Would using a 350 carb give me this?  If this is the real carb,
how does one go about getting jet-spec for my application, and where do
you buy car-carb jets?  (I'm familiar with ski-doo carbs and jetting
them).
Even through all that, it'll still spin pretty good (I put the
accelerator pump on the outside notch and that seemed to give me better jump)

Thanx again and again and again...

...............self-promo sig file Version 2.2...............
Eric Aksomitis:
Virtual Junkyard: Current count -> 5 vehicles
Oldsmobile Index: Current Count -> 8 vehicles
http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/       mailto:aksomi@cs.uregina.ca
Last update: 970504
..............................................................

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 20:14:06 -0300
Subject: Re: FluidDamper

OL>Shang wrote:
OL>>
OL>> Has anyone bought a Fluid Damper for there Olds motor? What are your
OL>> thoughts on it? Worth the $350 they want for it, or stick with stock?
OL>>
OL>> Stephen Hoover
OL>> Dallas, Texas
OL>> '70 Cutlass "S"

OL>Stephen,

OL>Oldsmobiles can run so well & smoothly.  I personally wouldn't want to
OL>use a band-aid to cover some failing in this fine engine.  You'll be
OL>repairing the failing anyway.  Why spend another $350 of your hard
OL>earned money?

OL>Bill Culp
OL>Decatur, Alabama

Band-aid to cover some failing in this engine? ALL engines have
torsional vibration even smooth running Olds. This isn't something
failing it's something man made and that is just a fact of life. On a
stock or mild street engine it probably wouldn't be necessary a new or
rebuilt factory style will work just fine. If the engine is going to see
high rpms very often then it might not be a bad idea to use one. I plan
on using one on my 425 since it will have around 6500-6800 rpm shift
point

Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 20:14:08 -0300
Subject: Re: Some Questions

OL>I'm working on fuel injecting my Vista-Cruiser.

OL>Greg Pruett
OL>`72 Vista-Cruiser
OL>`67 Cutlass Supreme

I've been thinking about put an Olds motor in my truck
and would like to keep the fuel injection so I've been
sort of looking into to this. I was looking at a
repair manual a while back for Caprice/Impalas and it
had 307s listed as an available motor 'till '90. Does
anybody know if these came with TBI? I think the main
problem with hooking up a factory type TBI to an Olds
motor would be getting a computer controlled
distributor for the Olds motor. A couple years back I
read an article about Howell performance (?) that made
TBI conversion kits for carburated cars anybody know
if this company is still around? Address?

Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 20:14:04 -0300
Subject: Re: Cam Question for 350

OL>That's similar to my cam in my 72 Cutlass. I have higher lift , though.
OL>My bottom end still sucks!!! I don't make any aggressive power until 3000
OL>rpm. I would look at a custom grind with more overlap so you can get
OL>better off the line performance.
OL>>

Advancing the cam timing can help low end power.

Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: "bill " <lewman@mindpulse.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 21:48:00 -0300
Subject: FYI - Add Same Brand of Oil Between Changes

I attended the recent (Feb.) AACA National Meet.  One of the speakers was
from a oil company and talked about lubricants.

The one thing he emphasized was to add the same brand of oil between
changes.  He said that they can work at cross purposes at the molecular
level.

He was asked about the addition of additives like DuraLube, etc.  Again he
said that you should not need one if you use a good brand of oil.  He did
not state it but did imply (at least to me) that he was very much against
them.  They too can work at cross purposes in how they perform lubrication.


The above was also confirmed to me by a friend of mine who worked for one
of the large oil companies in research.  He said that each refinery had an
ad-pack that they put in their oil.

Bill

------------------------------

From: "Suzanne Rousseau" <ewok@clarkston.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 21:51:36 -0300
Subject: Re: Look at this + Carb Question

> This new addition has quite the under-the hood color scheme that people
> should view!  It's under 100K, but being a table it takes a bit for
> anything to show up (I think they should look at fixing it!)
>
> It's all in my pursuit of OEM standards.

Nice engine, a real attnetion grabber!  Perfect for when you're cruising
downtown at night and all the other muscle-heads want to see what you got
under the hood.  Perhaps I could've done something like that for my high
school art class and got an A for using all the primary colors.  ;-)

Well, I'm off to graduate this fine Sunday night.  I opened all my gifts
earlier and was disappointed when there wasn't that shiny pair of ported
'C' heads all wrapped up in ribbons & bows.  Oh well...maybe next time....

Paul Rousseau
*1967 442

------------------------------

From: "bill " <lewman@mindpulse.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 21:38:16 -0300
Subject: Re: 1961 98 Sport Sedan Parts Wanted

Paul,
Thanks for the info.  That too is my color on the 61.  It is a very
deceptive color and seems to change every time I look at it.
Bill

- ----------
> From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> To: Lewman
> Subject: Re: 1961 98 Sport Sedan Parts Wanted
> Date: Saturday, May 31, 1997 10:31 PM
>
>
> bill wrote:
>
>
> > 2.  Does anyone know where I can get the rubber moldings and gaskets
for
> > around the windows, etc.  The Sport Sedan is slightly different from
the
> > normal 4 door hardtop.  Mike Fusick and some of the other vendors I
have
> > contacted do not have it.  There is one hope if Buick or Pontiac made
an
> > equivalent and someon has the part number so I could possible cross it
> > over.
>
> Bill
>
> Buick and Cadillac both used this body style.  Maybe you should try USA
> Part.  They have parts for Oldses and Cadillacs.  I used to have a '61
> Ninety Eight, but it was the OTHER hardtop, a Holiday sedan.  It was
> painted Twilight Mist (purple metallic).  Wishing I had kept that
> one...  I swapped it even for a '52 Ninety Eight sedan.
>
> Paul
> --
> Paul Hartlieb
> plh@nbn.net
> '67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
> '72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

From: "Peg O'Connor" <peg@grove.ufl.edu>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 21:59:37 -0300
Subject: Re: TESTING Do not READ

At 07:58 PM 5/30/97 -0300, you wrote:
>At 07:35 PM 5/30/97 -0300, you wrote:
>>> Robert Knowles wrote:
>>> >
>>> > testetstetstetstetstetstetstetest
>>>
>>> ...and you would be testing your spell-checker?
>>>
>>>     66 Toro
>>> The /\   /\ and Mike
>>
>>He *said* not to read it!
>
>
>Hmm.  I see ~you~ read it too, eh Peg???  :)
>
>God, can't ~any~ of us follow directions anymore?  Hmph!   ;)

Well, uh . . . I saw that it said RE: Testing, so I knew somebody had
already done it . . . I was just, uh . . . checking to see who that would
be.  And it's Mike.  <Peg points finger at Mike>

And . . . HEY, you're reading it, too!  <Peg points finger again>  I guess
we are direction-illiterate, but maybe that comes from Chilton's manuals or
something . . . .

8)
peg

------------------------------

From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 21:13:19 -0300
Subject: Re: shocks

> Has anyone had any experience with the Monroe Sens-a-trac shocks?  Or

I installed 4 Sensatrac shocks on my '83 Delta 88 about 12,000 miles ago.
The front two have already lost some of their damping qualities.  This
car has the trailer towing suspension, and this shock's valving
isn't particularly well suited to the higher rate front springs; on big
dips, the front end goes through two full oscillations before coming to a
rest.  On another car (similar chassis) with lower rate front springs, the
Sensatracs provide a steady, controlled ride.  A friend has just purchased
an '87 442, which currently has 4 slightly worn Sensatracs.  They are
perfectly adequate until you are cruising over 80mph, when certain dips
will cause an unsettling amount of front suspension movement.

Kevin Wong

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 18:42:14 -0300
Subject: Re: cowl info needed

Yorcoy@aol.com wrote:
>
> any help would be appreciated!
> ST 70-34267

'70 (70) Oldsmobile (3) Cutlass Supreme Convertible (4267)

> BF  00073(1)

Fremont, CA plant (BF) body ª00073 (it's an early one)  Don't know what
the (1) is for.

> TR 977

Interior Trim code (97) is for the type of material and the seat type.
(7) is the color code for Ivory (some call it Pearl)

> 58 A

(58) is the paint code for Burnished Gold, (A) is the code for a white
convertible top.

> 09D

Build date: 4th week (D) of September (09)

> 031801  280278

Don't know what these are.

Paul

- --
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

From: Jason Adcock <adcockjk@erols.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 23:01:09 -0300
Subject: Re: Question ???

Richard Cadille wrote:
>
> Found your e-mail address on the internet.  My mother (original owner) has
> a 1978 Olds Cutlass Supreme Brogham that just hit 54,000 miles.  260 V-8,
> loaded, no
> rust.  She stores it every winter, so it hasn't seen any NY snow!  We would
> like to sell it.  We really don't know what it is worth either.  Can you
> make a few suggestions.  I have photos and am willing to advertise.
> Question is where?  Thanks for any assistance you can render.  Rich
> Cadille,  e-mail  rcadille@wzrd.com  phone 716-283-5151 in Niagara Falls,
> NY

If you are going to sell it, definately check out Bryceman's Classifieds
Section on his page at http://www.442.com.  Also, check out the
Oldsmobile Club of America's new site at
http://www.erols.com/brad442/oca/.  You can pay for an ad in JWO
(Journey With Olds), the monthly OCA mag.  If it is in mint condition, I
mean MINT: no rust anywhere, close to new tires, no exhaust leaks,
engine compartment/interior very clean, etc....I wouldn't see anything
wrong for listing it for 3-4 grand.  But, you need to check out Kelley
Blue Book's web site at http://www.kbb.com to get a real price quote.

I hope this helps...

Cheers.

- --

+------------------------------------------------+

 Jason Adcock
 OCA ª028044
 adcockjk@erols.com

 1984 Cutlass Calais RWD V8
 75K Miles, CC1, F41, LV2, N66
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason/cutlass.html
 Also viewable through http://www.442.com

+------------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

From: Jason Adcock <adcockjk@erols.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 23:04:09 -0300
Subject: Re: Some Questions

Daren@qconline.com wrote:
>
> OL>I'm working on fuel injecting my Vista-Cruiser.
>
> OL>Greg Pruett
> OL>`72 Vista-Cruiser
> OL>`67 Cutlass Supreme
>
> I've been thinking about put an Olds motor in my truck
> and would like to keep the fuel injection so I've been
> sort of looking into to this. I was looking at a
> repair manual a while back for Caprice/Impalas and it
> had 307s listed as an available motor 'till '90. Does
> anybody know if these came with TBI? I think the main
> problem with hooking up a factory type TBI to an Olds
> motor would be getting a computer controlled
> distributor for the Olds motor. A couple years back I
> read an article about Howell performance (?) that made
> TBI conversion kits for carburated cars anybody know
> if this company is still around? Address?
>
> Daren
>
> O.C.A. ª23571
> daren@qconline.com

Daren, I'm pretty sure that evern the last 307's were carbureted w/ a
4bbl. Quadrajet.  I'm not sure about FI needs (computerized distributer,
etc.).  Sorry, never heard of Howell.  The only FI system that I have
seen personally is offered by Edelbrock for the small block Ch*vy.

- --

+------------------------------------------------+

 Jason Adcock
 OCA ª028044
 adcockjk@erols.com

 1984 Cutlass Calais RWD V8
 75K Miles, CC1, F41, LV2, N66
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason/cutlass.html
 Also viewable through http://www.442.com

+------------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 23:09:39 -0300
Subject: Re: Look at this + Carb Question

At 07:58 PM 6/1/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I finally got my 455 Cutlass going, and it just don't have the power.  It
>surges and sputters like it needs more fuel under heavy acceleration.
>When not under heavy load, it sounds quite good and seems to run quite
>well.  I believe it's a '76 455 98 carb on it on a '75 455, how can I
>tell.  Would using a 350 carb give me this?  If this is the real carb,
>how does one go about getting jet-spec for my application, and where do
>you buy car-carb jets?  (I'm familiar with ski-doo carbs and jetting
>them).

Maybe your accelerator pump piston is dried out, and isn't delivering more
fuel? Or perhaps your power system is sticking closed, so you're always lean?
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Frank" <frank@trident.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 22:25:09 -0300
Subject: Re: TESTING Do not READ

- ----------
> From: Peg O'Connor <peg@grove.ufl.edu>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: TESTING Do not READ
> Date: Sunday, June 01, 1997 8:59 PM
>
> At 07:58 PM 5/30/97 -0300, you wrote:
> >At 07:35 PM 5/30/97 -0300, you wrote:
> >>> Robert Knowles wrote:
> >>> >
> >>> > testetstetstetstetstetstetstetest
> >>>
> >>> ...and you would be testing your spell-checker?
> >>>
> >>>     66 Toro
> >>> The /\   /\ and Mike
> >>
> >>He *said* not to read it!
> >
> >
> >Hmm.  I see ~you~ read it too, eh Peg???  :)
> >
> >God, can't ~any~ of us follow directions anymore?  Hmph!   ;)
>
> Well, uh . . . I saw that it said RE: Testing, so I knew somebody had
> already done it . . . I was just, uh . . . checking to see who that would
> be.  And it's Mike.  <Peg points finger at Mike>
>
> And . . . HEY, you're reading it, too!  <Peg points finger again>  I
guess
> we are direction-illiterate, but maybe that comes from Chilton's manuals
or
> something . . . .
>
> 8)
> peg
>
>

Just wondering what all the testing was about,Oh well.
Frank

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 23:28:51 -0300
Subject: Re: Some Questions

At 10:04 PM 6/1/97 -0400, you wrote:
>> I think the main
>> problem with hooking up a factory type TBI to an Olds
>> motor would be getting a computer controlled
>> distributor for the Olds motor.

Well, the later 307's were all computer controlled, so that's your answer
there. In addition, the '77 403 in the Toronado had a rudimentary computer
controlled ignition system, so its distributor could be used as well.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 23:51:19 -0300
Subject: Re: Look at this + Carb Question

On Sun, 1 Jun 1997, Robert Barry wrote:

> At 07:58 PM 6/1/97 -0400, you wrote:
> >surges and sputters like it needs more fuel under heavy acceleration.
> >When not under heavy load, it sounds quite good and seems to run quite
>
> Maybe your accelerator pump piston is dried out, and isn't delivering more
> fuel? Or perhaps your power system is sticking closed, so you're always
lean?

No, it stays sputtering the whole time it's accelerating, long after the
accelerator pump is done it's job.  I put a new accelerator pump in this
morning, and that helped it's initial takeoff, but from 10mph to 70mph,
it just surges like it wants more fuel, and lagged behind a 78 350 ch*v
cutlass that lost to a 77 impala, so it's not my imagination.  I'm
thinking the vacuum of heavy acceleration is not being supported by this
carb?  What's a power system????  The top gasket that sits on top of the
accelerato pump has a small rip in it, could this be a problem?

I guess my main question is:
How can I tell that this carb, after having a kit put in and
being in top form, will work properly on this setup?

Enjoy...

...............self-promo sig file Version 2.2...............
Eric Aksomitis:
Virtual Junkyard: Current count -> 5 vehicles
Oldsmobile Index: Current Count -> 8 vehicles
http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/       mailto:aksomi@cs.uregina.ca
Last update: 970504
..............................................................

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 19:26:38 -0300
Subject: Re: Look at this + Carb Question

Suzanne Rousseau wrote:
>
> Well, I'm off to graduate this fine Sunday night.  I opened all my gifts
> earlier and was disappointed when there wasn't that shiny pair of ported
> 'C' heads all wrapped up in ribbons & bows.  Oh well...maybe next time....
>
> Paul Rousseau
> *1967 442

Paul,

Congratulations on the graduation.  How old are you now/  Have yoiu
always been in school?  Seriously, good luck & start paying taxes soon.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 00:37:48 -0300
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure

At 07:45 PM 6/1/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Hi All,
>   I was out driving last night around town for a while when I happened
>to look down and notice my oil pressure guage was bouncing around from
>65psi down to around 45psi while giving the car gas. Also when at idle
>the car almost always hold around 40psi, but when sitting still at a red
>light noticed the guage bouncing around 25psi. I checked the oil
>pressure line going to the guage and no leaks found, also checked the
>oil and it was clean and full. Engine has approx: 700 miles on the
>overhaul so would not think it is the oil pump. Any suggestions on how
>to tell if it is the oil pump or guage or what????. Would  prefer to not
>pull pump if I do not have to but will do so if needed. If oil pressure
>guage is bad would it not drop the oil pressure down to 0?
>Sorry for so long a question, but looking for answers.
>
>Thanks
>Tom Williams
>70 W-31
>

Tom

        First I'd try a new gauge. If the indications are the same then I
would start to worry about a bad pump or some bad machine work or bearings.
I've seen a couple of 350 Olds engine that had the bearings beat out of them
hold a good steady 60 psi of oil pressure. Before you replace the pump I
would check the pressure plunger and spring assembly first. Check to make
sure the spring didn't break or give out. I know that is kind of a long shot
but it's cheaper than buying a pump. What brand was installed in the engine.
I personally won't use anything other than a Melling STD. pump. Remember to
use the High Volume pump only if you have oil restricters in the engine.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 19:39:16 -0300
Subject: Re: FluidDamper

Shang wrote:
>
> > Stephen,
> >
> > Oldsmobiles can run so well & smoothly.  I personally wouldn't want to
> > use a band-aid to cover some failing in this fine engine.  You'll be
> > repairing the failing anyway.  Why spend another $350 of your hard
> > earned money?
> >
> > Bill Culp
> > Decatur, Alabama
>
> Good point, I umm, failed to mention that I was planning on buying one
> at the time of a rebuild. That change anything?
>
> Stephen Hoover
> Dallas, Texas
> '70 Cutlass "S"

Stephen,

Another post suggested that any balance can be improved & is necessary
at very high rpm's.  Are you planning on 6-8000 rpm's?  If so, this
might help after you have balanced the complete reciprocating mass.  If
smoothness is the goal, balancing everything that moves is no more
expensive than this part & will give better results.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª704
********************************
