To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #744


oldsmobile-digest        Friday, July 11 1997        Volume 01 : Number 744



RE: Pulleys
Re: Lightning Rods
disc brake swaps
REMINDER
What is the correct thermostat temp?
Re: Lansing where are you?
Re: overheating?
Olds clock
Please release me
Gas war
Re: 1964 Olds 98 convertible
Re: Spamming Spammers
Re: 73 build-up phases 1, 2, and 4 commence the 23rd
Exhausts...(was 73 build-up phases )
Re: Ch*vy Quesiton
Re: Olds clock
Re: Lightning Rods
Rebuttal to: "Just A Little JOke"
Re: Mondello Oldsmobile Nationals (parts needed)
Re: Wanted W 30 Aluminum intake
spring for olds hood emblem...
Re: Lansing where are you?
Re: REMINDER
Re: What is the correct thermostat temp?
Re: spring for olds hood emblem...
Re: overheating?
New Job Going Well
Re: Mondello Oldsmobile Nationals (parts needed)
Re: Olds clock
Re: 1964 Olds 98 convertible
Re: REMINDER
Re: New Job Going Well
Re: Lightning Rods
CHROMEWORK...............
Ex-man Caps
Re: CHROMEWORK...............
Re: CHROMEWORK...............
Re: Duals on the Delta 88...
Re: Small Block Exhuast Manifolds?
Re: Rear End Ration quesion and problem
Re: The H.P. of a 350...
AC Compressor problems on 1994 CS
air conditioning problems
Re: air conditioning problems
Old Tools/Muscle Car Review
Re: 73 build-up phases 1, 2, and 4 commence the 23rd
70 442 parts wanted
The Wife
Re: Small Block Exhaust Manifolds
digest 742 reply
Few 72 parts
How to blow a head gasket (and one way to avoid it?)
Valvetrain probs
Re: Old Tools/Muscle Car Review
Re: Lightning Rods

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 12:49:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: RE: Pulleys

Does anyone know a source for underdrive pulleys for BB olds other than
Batten?  Thanks for the info.

Al Varhus
Columbus, Ohio (Home of the "Mad Cows" - the NHL's newest team)
http://www.infinet.com/~avar



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 97 12:06:02 CST
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: Lightning Rods

A 68-72 Cutlass at the Milwaukee show at Renner Olds had these installed.
Owner wasn't around, so couldn't ask about them.

David Brown       Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com  OR  http://www.en.com/users/thall

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds
- ------------

How hard is it to install a set of lightning rod shifter...Is it
cable operated or not?

Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 97 12:27:03 CST
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Subject: disc brake swaps

Here's some info on using c*m*r* and N*v* spindles for brake swaps.

David Brown       Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com  OR  http://www.en.com/users/thall

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds
- ------------

Author:  seributra@newwareclub.com at Interlink
Date:    7/4/97 12:21 AM

My web page, which is the A-Car Chassis Page, located at
www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/5196/chassis.html, has a reference on
spindles.  The 1967-69 and 1968-74 Camaro/Nova (which includes the
Oldsmobile Omega) used the same spindle, but the steering knuckle is a
separate piece.  There are three bolts on the disc and drum spindle, and
the spindle assembly for discs (Camaro/Nova) will fit into a 442, but
the steering arms must be changed.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 14:38:39 -0500
From: Richard Staley <rstaley@fastlane.net>
Subject: REMINDER

just a reminder that there is a meeting tonight and every Thursday night
in Rocket Talk. I wil be there i don't know about anyone else. its at
8:30 CST 9:30 EST and 6:30 PST. Thanx for hearing me out.

  RS
'70 442 w-25 :)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 13:20:50 -0700
From: Jar Lyons <jarl@atrieva.com>
Subject: What is the correct thermostat temp?

After all the attention given to overheating, I'm still
unsure about the following.

What is the correct temperature rating for a given engine?

Does it depend on the engine and extras, like a/c?

I have a 455 w/ac that I recently put a 190 temp t-stat on
while I was doing the pump.

This helped the operating temp significantly, but I've noticed
it still can get up as near as 220 if it's sitting idling.

Would I be better off with a 160?  Should I get a high-flow 190?

Also, I noticed a significant climb in temp (~30 degrees)
after I shut the engine down.  Is this really an indication
that the entire engine temp goes up that much, or is it
just the water jacket where the sensor is?

- --
Have you backed up your data today?
Atrieva Internet Backup Service http://www.atrieva.com

Jar Lyons
jarl@atrieva.com
Atrieva Corporation  (www.atrieva.com)
600 University Street, Suite 911
Seattle, WA  98101
Voice: (206) 749-2914,
Fax:   (206) 382-6615
- ------------------------------------------------------------------
                1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass Convertible
                       455 Rocket Powered
                'How fast do you want to go today?'
- ------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 14:40:51 -0400
From: Cliff McFarlane <mcfrlan@bconnex.net>
Subject: Re: Lansing where are you?

________________________________________________________________________
Adams, Tom          Kellogg Center     8/21-24    66 Delta Convertible
Allen, Joseph       Cottonwood CG      8/20-24    57 88 J/2 Conv
Beaulieu, Greg      Hampton Inn        8/18-23    none
Bicker, Steve       Quality Suites     8/19-24    67 442
Blankenship, Mike   Red Roof Inn       8/20-24    none
Bradley, Terry&Barb Regent Inn         8/20-24    71 Cutlass, 70 W-30
Brown, David        Best Western-Midway8/19-24    77 Delta 88
Chermack, Jim       Mariott East       8/18-25    67 442 W-30
Cornea, Mark        Clubhouse Inn      8/19-24    70 442 W-30 Red
Cremean, Matt       Blissfield, MI     8/21       73 Cutlass Supreme
Culp, Bill          Park Inn Int       8/21-24    silver '62 Jetfire
Easton, Jeff        Fairfield Okemos   8/20-22    70 442 black
Forsee, Ron         Hampton Inn        8/20-24    65 442
Glista, Nikki       Holiday West       8/19-24    68 Cutlass conv
Glista, Richard     Holiday West       8/19-23    68 - 442
Gulino, Dan         Sleep Inn          8/20-24    75 Delta 88 conv
Harkema, Doug       Holt, MI           all        70 Supreme conv.
Hartlieb, Paul      Marriott East      8-19-23    67 Ninety Eight
Hendley, Daren      Ramada             8/20-24    none
Hirtle, Don         Hampton            8/18-23    none
Horton, Everett     Sheraton           8/19-23    61 Starfire conv
Horton, Gordon      Sheraton           8/19-23    71 Supreme conv
Johnson, Ernie      Ramada             8/20-24    67-442
Kitchener, Doug     Holiday West       8/19-24    70 Supreme conv
Lamb, Aaron         Clubhouse Inn      8/20-23    72 Cutlass
Loban, John         Clubhouse Inn      8/20-24    63 Starfire conv
McFarlane, Cliff    Holiday West       8/19-23    63 Starfire
Melen, Ulyess       Clubhouse Inn      8/20-23    71 Cutlass S
Nicholson, Brad     Best Western       8/19-24    87 442 (Just Me)
O'Connor, Peg       Holiday West       8/19-24    none
Penny, Steve        Hampton            8/18-23    none
Prince, Mark        Clubhouse Inn      8/19-24    72 442 W-30
Prince, Michael     Clubhouse Inn      8/20-23    70 Cutlass S
Pritchett, Bill     Radisson           8/20-23    61 98
Roberts, Rick       Clubhouse Inn      8/22       72 Hurst Olds
Ruper, Chris        Best Western-Midway8/19-24    none
Senko, Drew         Sheraton           8/20-23    71 Supreme conv.
Schinkel, Rob       Red Roof Inn       8/21-22    none
Smetana, Chris      BW Governors       8/20-24    possibly a 72 S
Smith, Brian        Hampton            8/18-23    none
Smith, Bryce        Days Inn           8/18-23    none
Soball, Dave        Motel 6 Central    8/20-24    Red/White '55 98
Stewart, Sandy      Hampton            8/18-23    none
Thomas, Robert      Clubhouse Inn      8/22       69 442 W-32
Westlake, Steve     Holiday West       8/19-23    63 - 98
Williams, Dan       Hampton Inn        8/20-24    68 442 conv.
Williams, Danny     Red Roof Inn       8/20-24    none
Wilson, Jim         none               8/19-23    64 Stafire
Wyatt, Dave         BW Governors       8/20-24    Yellow '70 4-4-2
________________________________________________________________________

Hello everyone. I just cleaned up the list a little and the grand total
so far of people that are coming is 49!

Cliff McFarlane
62 Oldsmobile Starfire conv.
63 Oldsmobile Starfire coupe.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 15:03:20 +0000
From: TERRANCE ROHNER <tthiel@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: overheating?

Douglas J Harkema wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I may or may not have aproblem w/ my 70 cutlass 350 2b,  I replaced a hose 
and
> a thermostat.  It seems like the system is building up too much pressure.  I
> don't know what the engine is ruuning temp wise because All I have is the
idiot > light.  I am getting coolant out of the overflow almost every time I go
for a > spin.  Even on some short trips. 5-10 miles.  What is my problem?  I
seem to > have good flow because I thought it was water pump.  Any 
Suggestions? >
 > Thanks > > Doug H Buy an aftermarket guage. They do wonders

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 20:59:02 +0100
From: "Bruce Marshall" <bruce@shore.net>
Subject: Olds clock

I have acquired an interesting clock and perhaps some of you can help me in
identifing it.

The clock face is round and about 2 1/4" in diameter.  Printed on the face
it says
"Oldsmobile Car-Watch Automatic".  It is a self-winding, swiss made
movement manufactured by Maar. It looks like the Olds Rocket logo on the
front also (looks like the planet Saturn) with a sweep second hand inside.

Is it from the fifties?
Maybe mounts in the steering column?
It works!

Guess I'd sell it if there is some interest.

Bruce Marshall
'41 Olds 66

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 15:22:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: MPHeiser@aol.com
Subject: Please release me

I have written to the site I was told to to be released from thiw list, and
am requesting again to ensure you do so.  My cpu will be down for a couple
weeks while I transfer from Va to Chicago.  Thanks and look forward to
getting back on soon!

MPHeiser@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 15:44:54 EDT
From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Subject: Gas war

>When is the last time anyone had a gas
>war going that was worth it?

We got one going on here right now...three gas stations on the same
block.  93 octane started at $1.43 or $1.44/gal, now its down to
$1.16/gal.  I can live with that...


Dave Paulison                    1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida                1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 16:52:28 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: 1964 Olds 98 convertible

On Thu, 10 Jul 1997, John Van Ouwerkerk wrote:
> I'm told that part number is D62-32. The original GM part number is
> 1993597. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

John,

I did a lookup at http://www.partsvoice.com and found 4 suppliers for
that part number. Give it a try.

Partsvoice is unbelieveable! All sorts of old stuff listed there -- I
just don't know how accurate their records are, i.e. if the stuff they
say that is on dealer's shelves is actually out there.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 11:25:40 -0800
From: Dan Lacey <lacey@dsea.com>
Subject: Re: Spamming Spammers

Mail bombs are a USELESS way of preventing SPAM.
No one in the security field advocates this practice, period!
ALWAYS use the "chain of command" with Email and Internet problems.
Let the list manager handle the problem, and he will contact the
appropriate people up the line...

>In a message dated 97-07-09 09:03:58 EDT, you write:
>
><< Thanks to Messrs. Gulbis and Lyons who do not care to properly read the
> original spam and READ the senders address I have already received one
> e-mail bomb.  Any future bombs will be forwarded to Messrs. Gulbis and
> Lyons, and anyone else who recommends my e-mail address as the target for an
> e-mail bomb.
>
> BTW, since certain individuals seem to be incapable of discerning the
> correct address of the spammer, I have done their homework for them, THE
> CORRECT ADDRESS FOR ANY MAIL BOMBS IS:    img@llv.com  PLEASE MAKE A NOTE OF
>IT.
>
> Erik Nowacki
> 1972 Vista Cruiser
>  >>
>
>GEEZ GIVE THEM A BREAK EH THEY WERE TRYING TO DO SOMETHING GOOD


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 16:56:24 -0600
From: talcarol@erie.net (Chris Kugler)
Subject: Re: 73 build-up phases 1, 2, and 4 commence the 23rd

Matt Cremean wrote:

>This system is gonna cost me about $400. Yes, the Flowmasters are GOOD
>mufflers. This will be true dual, stainless steel, from a 350.


On my '77 442 there is some sort of bar on the left side under the car.  It
may be a support bar for the frame but I'm not sure.  It looks like it
would block true duals on mine.  Do earlier Cutlass's have this bar?  If so
how are you getting by this?

Thanks again...

Chris Kugler

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 17:32:14 -0600
From: talcarol@erie.net (Chris Kugler)
Subject: Exhausts...(was 73 build-up phases )

>Matt Cremean wrote:
>This system is gonna cost me about $400. Yes, the Flowmasters are GOOD
>mufflers. This will be true dual, stainless steel, from a 350.
>
How much would splitting a single exhaust cost?  Taking one pipe back and
splitting it behind the Cat. Converter.  Whats the price difference between
stainless steel and regular?  Flowmasters costs around $50 right?

Thanks...

Chris Kugler
'77 442

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 17:27:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: PaulP34167@aol.com
Subject: Re: Ch*vy Quesiton

In a message dated 97-07-09 23:55:11 EDT, you write:

> My father has a 305 in his Monte SS. He blew the Head gasket so I
>  replaced it while at it replaced the vavles and all that Fun stuff.
>  My problem is that when I reinstalled the push rods and the lifter
>  and all that I started the car to adjust the rockers. I adjusted the
>  as I did with my 350 Rocket and they keep on Chattering. On a Chevy
>  do you have to tighten them down to 0 Clearence or is there a spec on
>  this or what. I guess that is why Chevy stands for Can Hear Every
>  Vavle Yakin huh?

With the engine running tighten the rocker arm nut 1/2 turn past the point
the valve stops clicking.

Paul Pate
70 Cutlass S
84 Camaro LG4

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 16:54:32 -0700 (MST)
From: idaholc@primenet.com (william goodnight)
Subject: Re: Olds clock

>
>
>Guess I'd sell it if there is some interest.
>
>Bruce Marshall:


Is it cosmetically in good shape?  If so, what would you want for it?  I
might be interested.



Bill Goodnight
Goodnight & Associates, Inc.
idaholc@primenet.com
Boise, Idaho

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 17:59:35 -0500
From: Ryan Hehn <ryanh@docker.com>
Subject: Re: Lightning Rods

> One important thing....Lightning rods were made for the TH2004R, which
> was a FOUR speed auto, you have a THREE speed auto.  Doesn't make much
> sense to waste a lot of money on Lightning rods.  I suggest you find a
> rachet type shifter for a three-speed, like a Quicksilver from B&M, or
> something similar.
>
> But....if you really are dead set on the Lightning Rods...first, change
> the trans. to a four-speed auto.
>

Hey, wait a minute... Don't 83-84 Hurst/Olds have TH350's & the
lightning rods??  I didn't think the 200R4 was built strong enough until
'85 to be coupled with the 307 (9)...

Besides, on another g-body list that I won't mention the name of,
someone found a source for TH350 lightning rods.  Can't remember where
at the moment.

Ryan Hehn
ryanh@docker.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 19:04:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Rebuttal to: "Just A Little JOke"

Definitely   <<<Snip!!!>>>

Hmmm. Quite. Very little.

I do not mind when _automotive_ related humor is forwarded to this list. It
is quite entertaining in many cases.

This last, however, was quite another matter.

If you really need to send juvenile posts such as that one, send it to
yourself.

Posting of such things to this list needlessly clutters up bandwidth and
Emailboxes.

In light of recent events here, which unfortunately include spamming and some
minor infighting as a result of the former, aforesaid tasteless Email is
somewhat less than welcome.

Please, for the sake of bandwidth, ask Oldsmobile related questions, consult
the FAQ before posting to avoid asking needless questions (no question is
stupid).

One last thing. Please make your subject headings specific to the content of
the letter. This can help those of us with little time to skim through the
mail and select those which we find pertinent.

Thank you.

  Karl Aune
  1965 Dynamic 88
  Chicago, IL
 Member, OCA

  http://members.aol.com/KarlAunan/index.html

  (witticism)
None will be placed here at this time. After all those past months of fresh
humor, I can not see my way clear to add jocularity here. It is contrary to
the intent of this missive.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 20:16:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: MPHeiser@aol.com
Subject: Re: Mondello Oldsmobile Nationals (parts needed)

Looking for a sport steering wheel for 70-72 Cutlass...under 100...

Mark Heiser
mpheiser@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 19:44:48 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Wanted W 30 Aluminum intake

MROTHE wrote:
>
> Al Frey wrote:
> >
> > I am in the market for a W30 olds intake for my restoration project 71 W30
>
> A guy in VA has some.  Call 703-751-9100.  Ask for Jim Stohlman.  He's
> got some advertised in Hemming's for around $800.
>
> Mike Rothe

You can also check the classifieds on Brycemans page..
BTW, Jim Stohlman also has a '66 W-30, totally restored, for sale
$42,500.
- --
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 20:36:59 -0400
From: Aaron D Eoff <sheep542@mindspring.com>
Subject: spring for olds hood emblem...

Hello All,

Recently my hood emblem fell off for no reason. Fortunately i didn't lose
it. CAn anyone tell me exactly how it is attached? I know it some sort of
spring or something. CAn i get from a parts store or would any spring do the
trick??

TIA

AAron

Aaron D Eoff
   ///////  ///////
       //       //
      //       //
     //       //
    //       //  'twas a goodyear

1977 Olds Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 20:43:14 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Lansing where are you?

Daniel A. Gulino wrote:

> Boy, if I was nervous before, I'm REALLY nervous now.  What do you all know
> about the Sleep Inn that I don't?
>
> Dan
> (who will have the Sleep Inn all to himself...)

Dan

The Sleep in doesn't look THAT bad...

Here's what the AAA book has to say...

It's a two diamond motel.  59 rooms.  Economy rooms.  Public breakfast
area.  2 stories;  Interior corridors; meeting rooms; pool.  Services:
data ports.  Fee: coin laundry.  All rooms: free movies, combo & shower
baths, cable TV.  Rates were $46 single/$51 double in the '96 book,
looks like the housing committee couldn't negotiate a big discount with
these folks.

Doesn't sound that bad, does it?

Don't be a pig, let some other people have the other 58 rooms...

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 20:36:49 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: REMINDER

As I am new to this place I have heard this place Rocket talk mentioned
before If posible could I be told the address

Please

Bob Schinkel

- ----------
> From: Richard Staley <rstaley@fastlane.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: REMINDER
> Date: Thursday, July 10, 1997 3:38 PM
>
> just a reminder that there is a meeting tonight and every Thursday night
> in Rocket Talk. I wil be there i don't know about anyone else. its at
> 8:30 CST 9:30 EST and 6:30 PST. Thanx for hearing me out.
>
>   RS
> '70 442 w-25 :)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 20:46:17 -0400
From: "Terry Teague" <dawgs@conninc.com>
Subject: Re: What is the correct thermostat temp?

Ok I don't pretend to know it all but, I have had some experience with
overheating. I own a 1968 455 powered Delta Custom. You will be alot
better off with the 190 or 195 thermostat in this car. The engine needs
to reach a certain temp for it to run properly, also I have tried the
160 thermostat and can tell you that the car will still get hotter than
the thermostat!  It will take alittle longer to reach this because the
flow of water starts sooner, but it will reach the temp the same. I
would check the flow on the radiator, water and air. It is also
perfectly normal for the temp to raise when you cut the car off. The
temp is being maintained by the flow of water and when you stop the flow
it will raise for a little while. No need to concern yourself with
this.I also had trouble with the temp going up at idle and while towing.
I changed the thermostatic fan clutch to a centrifugal one. You will
give up alittle HP but the cooling is worth it. Also you might want to
purchase a dial thermometer that  will read up to the temp you are
getting to. they are not expensive and they have saved alot of worries
for me showing that the car was not really as hot as the gauge said!
good luck  Terry

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 21:03:08 -0400
From: "Terry Teague" <dawgs@conninc.com>
Subject: Re: spring for olds hood emblem...

Good luck most hood s emblems had a piece of wire that and through the
spring and had a flattened out end that would prevent it from pulling
out of the mount. Probably looking for a good one with the wire or cable
intact would be your best option.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 20:54:40 -0400
From: "Terry Teague" <dawgs@conninc.com>
Subject: Re: overheating?

Doug I had the same problem with my Chevy truck , I found that I had a
small hole in my radiator and the radiator was sucking in air instead of
coolant and when it expanded it was blowing air into the overflow and
kinka boiling it out , it really was bubbling it out you might want to
check this I had a hard time trying to find the leak and would have
sworn to you it was not  leaking, as the leak was on the same side as
the overflow and the antifreeze was getting on it all!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 19:03:31 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: New Job Going Well

Well, Sidney seems to be working well for me.  My first ~off site~
install, and I got a pretty decent tip.  One thing led to another, and
we got to talking cars.  (breaking the ice, ya know, didn'e even preach
Olds to her.)  She give's me her neighbor's phone number, and said to
call her; she'd had an old car sitting outside for about ten years now.
Some renter had left it after being evicted, or something.  I said I
really shouldn't but I took the ª anyway.  Drove by that house, and
here's a great big Delta sitting there!  '71, my distant guess.  Haven't
reached her yet, but I'll probably take it home.  (Hey, it's FREE, what
can I say!)

Other news, Rockit's still parked, unsure on it's next plan.  Heading
back to Havre tonight for another load.  (So I'll miss Rocket Talk
again:(   Anyway, better get running.  Later...

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 21:10:12 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: Mondello Oldsmobile Nationals (parts needed)

I have one How would Ninety sound and it in good shape

Bob

- ----------
> From: MPHeiser@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Mondello Oldsmobile Nationals (parts needed)
> Date: Thursday, July 10, 1997 8:16 PM
>
> Looking for a sport steering wheel for 70-72 Cutlass...under 100...
>
> Mark Heiser
> mpheiser@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 21:24:45 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Olds clock

Bruce Marshall wrote:
>
> I have acquired an interesting clock and perhaps some of you can help me in
> identifing it.
>
> The clock face is round and about 2 1/4" in diameter.  Printed on the face
> it says
> "Oldsmobile Car-Watch Automatic".  It is a self-winding, swiss made
> movement manufactured by Maar. It looks like the Olds Rocket logo on the
> front also (looks like the planet Saturn) with a sweep second hand inside.
>
> Is it from the fifties?
> Maybe mounts in the steering column?
> It works!
>
> Guess I'd sell it if there is some interest.
>
> Bruce Marshall
> '41 Olds 66

This was an option of the '52 Olds, but it may have been available late
in '51.  It was option M2, self-winding Maar watch.  It mounted in the
vertical steering wheel spoke, directly below the hub.  It required a
special steering wheel and a special turn signal lever.  Olds used the
same steering wheels from '50 to '52, so it can be installed in any of
these years if you have all the right equipment.  The face of this clock
turn freely and there is an arrow on the face.  The arrow was used to
mark the time they you left on a long trip, so you would remember what
time you left if you were keeping track of driving time.  Pushing the
little button behind the bezel and turning the face sets the time,
turning the face the opposite directions releases the button.  I think
the numbers and hands were supposed to glow in the dark, as the clock is
not lighted.  I don't think mine glow.  I have two descriptions out of
the factory literature:

From the "Features Folio" showroom album -- Self-Winding Watch: An
unusual, precision-built Swiss watch that is wound by the motion of the
steering wheel.  Will run for as long a eight days without rewind
motion.

From the Prices/Colors/Equipment folder -- self-winding Maar watch:
Fine, precision-made watch is set in steering wheel and wound by the
motion of the wheel while the car is being driven.  Never need winding
if the car is driven regularly.  On DeLuxe 88 and Super 88 models,
DeLuxe steering wheel must also be ordered.

1952 prices from the Dealer Data Book were:

$35.21 for DeLuxe 88 and Super 88 (plus another $14.09 for the DeLuxe
steering wheel.
$16.88 for Ninety Eights

The price difference was for the electic clock which was standard on the
Ninety Eights.

Also available as a separate option with the car watch was a compass
located on the dash in the clock space.  On 88s, the compass could be
ordered alone.  On 98s, if a compass was ordered the car watch was
required.

I bought one of these from an auction at a long time Oldsmobile dealer
about a year and a half ago.  It's mint, work perfectly (althought mine
only stays wound for about 6 days) and was in a hand made scale wooden
carving of a grandfather's clock.  I paid $150 for it.  And I wasn't the
only bidder, so there definately is a market for it.  Bill Ehrsam of
Sylvania, OH wanted mine pretty bad, but he only wanted to bid to $140.
He might be interested in yours.

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 21:34:37 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: 1964 Olds 98 convertible

Greg Beaulieu wrote:

> I did a lookup at http://www.partsvoice.com and found 4 suppliers for
> that part number. Give it a try.
>
> Partsvoice is unbelieveable! All sorts of old stuff listed there -- I
> just don't know how accurate their records are, i.e. if the stuff they
> say that is on dealer's shelves is actually out there.

I think Partsvoice is great, but it has a couple of drawbacks.  One is
the availability point you raised.

The other is that it doesn't confirm what the part is.  A part number
that was used in 1964 has definately been discontinued and that number
may have been re-used at some point along the line, although maybe not
now that I'm thinking about it.  Older parts have shorter numbers and
hardly any new car parts have short numbers, from what I know of our
parts department.  But a confirmation that said "switch" sure would be
nice before making a phone call across country.

Has anybody called Berejik's about those ex-man caps?

Paul

- --
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 18:40:08 -0700
From: "Suzanne Rousseau" <ewok@clarkston.com>
Subject: Re: REMINDER

- ----------
> From: Robert Schinkel <docbob@caninet.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: REMINDER
> Date: Thursday, July 10, 1997 5:36 PM
>
> As I am new to this place I have heard this place Rocket talk mentioned
> before If posible could I be told the address
>
> Please
>
> Bob Schinkel

http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner/oldschat.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 19:54:04 +0000
From: TERRANCE ROHNER <tthiel@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: New Job Going Well

Charley Buehner wrote:
>
> Well, Sidney seems to be working well for me.  My first ~off site~
> install, and I got a pretty decent tip.  One thing led to another, and
> we got to talking cars.  (breaking the ice, ya know, didn'e even preach
> Olds to her.)  She give's me her neighbor's phone number, and said to
> call her; she'd had an old car sitting outside for about ten years now.
> Some renter had left it after being evicted, or something.  I said I
> really shouldn't but I took the ª anyway.  Drove by that house, and
> here's a great big Delta sitting there!  '71, my distant guess.  Haven't
> reached her yet, but I'll probably take it home.  (Hey, it's FREE, what
> can I say!)
>
> Other news, Rockit's still parked, unsure on it's next plan.  Heading
> back to Havre tonight for another load.  (So I'll miss Rocket Talk
> again:(   Anyway, better get running.  Later...

Well let me guess you have a Buick GS with ram air, white and black in
color. And your supervisor's name Jeremy and you work with a guy named
Tyler who gets it everynight, and his favorite thing is doggy and then
slapping them in the ass and saying, "Who's your Daddy?". I don't know
if you remember talking to me but anyway Tyler told me you were on a
olds mailing list to, and what a coincidence that we have the same one.
So I didn't know you were a olds fan? I figured you to be a Buick man.
You know my first car was a 75'442. Stupid me got rid of it. It hauled
ass too. Anyway Tyler is an olds man too. Olds till we die!! Well make
sure you tell Tyler you heard from me.


                Culligan Man

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 21:57:03 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Lightning Rods

> Hey, wait a minute... Don't 83-84 Hurst/Olds have TH350's & the
> lightning rods??  I didn't think the 200R4 was built strong enough until
> '85 to be coupled with the 307 (9)...

Never seen a 83/84 H/O with a TH350 from the factory.  I suppose they
make AFTERMARKET style for the TH350, but I've only seen 4 speeds in all
the 83/84 H/O's I test drove new way back when......And the 200R4 still
wasn't built strong enough. In fact, I bet the H/O trans was "OZ" code
just like the 85 442.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 19:03:02 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: CHROMEWORK...............

Received the emblems back and want to know the following:  the formerly
sharp edges to the numerals have been rounded by the addition of the chrome
(probably to cover the pitting).  Also, the bow tie emblem at the top was
originally 'empty' the bow tie was a raised area and the inside of the
Chevy 'bow tie' emblem was hollow and painted blue.  This has been filled
in with chrome.

Could the rounded edges be squared off again at this point?  Can the 'bow
tie' area be hollowed out again?

We're looking for them to look as close to original as possible.

Let me know - we have a spare old one that could be used as a guide.

Lisa

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 23:11:12 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Ex-man Caps

On Thu, 10 Jul 1997, Paul Hartlieb wrote:
>
> Has anybody called Berejik's about those ex-man caps?

I haven't because I don't have the part ª handy, but if anyone does, and
they have them, let me know...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 23:14:31 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: CHROMEWORK...............

On Thu, 10 Jul 1997, James Thingwold wrote:
> Also, the bow tie emblem at the top was
> originally 'empty' the bow tie was a raised area and the inside of the
> Chevy 'bow tie' emblem was hollow and painted blue.  This has been filled
  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

LISA!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Oh, the shame of it all.......

;-)

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 22:16:39 -0400
From: "Terry Teague" <dawgs@conninc.com>
Subject: Re: CHROMEWORK...............

Lisa I am sorry to inform you but I have had alot of dealings with
chrome plating. the rounded off edges were caused by the buffing
process. The same goes for the filled in area of the bowtie. This damage
can't be repaired. I would contact the chrome platters and complain
about unnecessary coarse buffing! The parts are ruined and hopefully you
can replace them, If the platter could not do a better job due to the
condition of the parts they should have contacted you.  Good Luck  Terry

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 19:49:20 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <adcockjk@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Duals on the Delta 88...

Dave, and others...

What I did on my Cutlass was leave the cat and exhaust pipe intact all the
way back to the axle (in my car, the muffler is sideways behind the axle).
Then, I ordered a RPM muffler from Edelbrock, P/N 5519
(http://www.edelbrock.com), and had Midas Muffler Shop install two custom
pipe bends to go out either side behind the rear wheels, the stock location
for a Cutlass with duals...such as a Hurst/Olds.  This can be done because
the muffler has outlets on both ends (it was designed for the Camaro) and
the muff sits sideways, so the outlets point toward the sides of the car,
so only about 18" of pipe were needed for each side.

The job cost about $300 grand total and it sounds real good.  From the
outside, the total effect is virtually unnoticeable...until I rev the
motor.  Check out my webside below and look at the picture, the pipes do
stay tucked in behind the wheel, so they are not sticking out and looking
cheap.

Hope this helps.

+------------------------------------------------+

 Jason Adcock
 OCA ª028044
 adcockjk@erols.com

 1984 Cutlass Calais RWD V8
 75K Miles, CC1, F41, LV2, N66
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason/cutlass.html
 Also viewable through http://www.442.com

+------------------------------------------------+

- ----------
> From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Duals on the Delta 88...
> Date: Wednesday, July 09, 1997 12:14 AM
>
> mjones@dragon.gleep.com wrote:
>
> > This is also VERY interesting to me as well, because I _also_ own a '78
> > Olds Delta 88, and wish to add dual exhaust as well!  The only thing is
> > that I'm in California and it is considered illegal to modify the stock
> > system (but there are LEGAL ways to get around it) even if it runs
> > cleaner.
> >
> > I was told that an A-body x-member wouldn't work, but that I could take
> > a x-member off of a late 80's full size f*rd and make it work (because
> > they had optional dual exhaust from factory)  If push comes to shove I
> > would have the X-membet modified, or maybe just route both pipes over
to
> > the right side and keep my single in/single out 2.75" catalyst
> > (monolithic replacment, no pellets for me!)
> >
> > Exhaust pipe size itself is now the limiting factor, I can't make up my
> > mind wether to use 2.25" or 2.5"..  I know I want to put a strong motor
> > in this car sometime (I may go down this Sat and look for a 403 or a
> > 455 at the boneyard, see if I can get it on a half-off day!) and I'm
> > afraid of choking the engine or killing my low-end torque.
> >
> > Mike Jones
> > '78 Olds 88
>
>
> I did a little bit of researching in the Canadian Highway Traffic Act,
> and if I were to go to duals, I would have to have dual catalytics.  I
> was even pondering going to "fake" dual exhausts--I would off the
> factory exhausts behind the catalytic, and then McGyver up some way to
> run dual pipes and mufflers (glasspacks) from there.  I know it's legal,
> but would it be worth the effort?  I know the power wouldn't improve,
> I'm just curious about the sound...I want it to sound like a true SB V8,
> not like a hairdryer.
>
> That method would save a lot of headaches, and a pile of dough ($).
>
> S. Dave Ward(Peterborough, Ontario, CANADA)
>
> "You could set my Olds on fire, or roll it down a hill, but I still
> wouldn't trade it for a Coupe DeVille."
>
> '78 Delta 88 (350)
> '85 Delta 88 (307)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 20:12:46 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <adcockjk@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Small Block Exhuast Manifolds?

Thomas, I thought the 307's and the 350's manifolds were both "logs".
Maybe the original owner installed headers or a modified manifold.

As for emissions, I don't think the exhaust manifolds have anything to do
with the AIR system, at least not on my Cutlass.  The AIR stuff pipes right
into the cylinder head, just above the exhaust port, making any fitting
header an available option...as opposed to finding a header that you could
drill for AIR ports.

+------------------------------------------------+

 Jason Adcock
 OCA ª028044
 adcockjk@erols.com

 1984 Cutlass Calais RWD V8
 75K Miles, CC1, F41, LV2, N66
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason/cutlass.html
 Also viewable through http://www.442.com

+------------------------------------------------+

- ----------
> From: Thomas Martin <marttj@pcmail1.css.mot.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Small Block Exhuast Manifolds?
> Date: Thursday, July 10, 1997 6:39 AM
>
> I am picking up an Olds 350, and I noticed the exhuast manifolds are
> very different than my 85 307.  The 307's are logs, just a tube with
> opening for the ports, and an exit.  What is the best ~emissions~
> compliant manifolds should I look for?  AIR system is not something that
> will be reinstalled.  Not without major mods first!
>
> I just want unrestricted exhuast, headers may be a consideration, but
> not initially.  I just need some manifolds that I can bolt in with the
> 350.
>
> Thanks!
> Thomas Martin
> 85 Cutlass Supreme 307 (which is about to grow up)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 20:09:18 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <adcockjk@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Rear End Ration quesion and problem

Yes, Igor a higher (numerically) gear ratio will help tremendously off the
line, but I feel you pain.  I, too, have only the 3 speed and have 2.29
rear gears, which give a 2100 rpm at 65 mph.  It could go higher, and I'd
like it higher, but I couldn't go much higher (like only 2.73) and the $500
bucks for the job isn't worth the small acceleration difference (to me).

Like the holeshot Chevelle mentioned, I will make this car a "toy" car
eventually, but now, it must be as driveable as the neighbor's rice burner.

+------------------------------------------------+

 Jason Adcock
 OCA ª028044
 adcockjk@erols.com

 1984 Cutlass Calais RWD V8
 75K Miles, CC1, F41, LV2, N66
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason/cutlass.html
 Also viewable through http://www.442.com

+------------------------------------------------+

- ----------
> From: Igor <todorovb@cadvision.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Rear End Ration quesion and problem
> Date: Tuesday, July 08, 1997 4:37 AM
>
> I have got a 1981 Delta 88 with a 307, th 250 and a 2.73 rear end.  I
> don't even have to tell you how slow this thing is off the line.  I would
> like to have a 350 motor but don't want to do it because I would like to
> prove some of mine rice burner friends that this motor can do it.  I was
> thinking to change the transmition to a th200r4 (overdrive).  I know this
> tranny is not great but that is all I could afford from a junk yard.
> Consequently, I would like to raise the Rear End Ration to maybe 3.43 or
> 3.73.  Would this make the Delta faster off the line?.  The only reason
why
> I want the overdrive is to be able to raise the rear end and still have
> decent mpg.  How would milege and engine ware differ from the current
> setup.  Any suggestions are helpful.
>
> Igor Todorovic
> 1981 Delta 88
> 1995 Intrepid 3.3

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 20:17:51 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <adcockjk@erols.com>
Subject: Re: The H.P. of a 350...

Or how 'bout...

You can set my Olds on fire
An' roll it down a hill,
But I still wouldn't trade it
For a stinkin' ol' Chevelle


+------------------------------------------------+

 Jason Adcock
 OCA ª028044
 adcockjk@erols.com

 1984 Cutlass Calais RWD V8
 75K Miles, CC1, F41, LV2, N66
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason/cutlass.html
 Also viewable through http://www.442.com

+------------------------------------------------+

- ----------
> From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: The H.P. of a 350...
> Date: Wednesday, July 09, 1997 6:14 PM
>
> Jason Labay wrote:
> >
> > At 05:05 PM 7/8/97 -0400, Dave Ward wrote:
> >
> > >"You could set my Olds on fire, or beat it 'til its dead, but I still
> > >wouldn't trade it for an IROC-Z!"
> >
> > Amen, I wouldn't either. Iroc-Z's aren't exactly hot on the performance
end.
> >
> > Jason Labay
> > (rest of sig withheld to protect those with sensitive feelings;-)
> > - - - - - - - - - - -
> > Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com) Akron, OH  f-body list member since 5/95
> > 93 Camaro Z/28: Patriot Red, A4, 3.23, PEG2, Firestone Firehawk SVX
tires,
> > TFX cat-back, 160 'stat, homeade air intake, Accel 300+ ignition and
coil,
> > Mobil 1 fluids, Licence plate: 1FST93Z.....14.165@98.70 before listed
mods
> > 80 Olds 442 W-30...show car...see at http://www.442.com/labay.html
> > 75 Hurst/Olds W-25-(2 of them)
>
>
> I agree...IROC's are a "chick" car, especially if it was a T-roof with
> an auto trans.  How's this for a closing statement:
>
> "You could blow my Olds to pieces, or beat it with force, but I stll
> wouldn't trade it for a nine-eleven PORSCHE!"
>
> A few may disagree with that...

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 22:46:16 -0400 (EDT)
From: MEOWIZ@aol.com
Subject: AC Compressor problems on 1994 CS

This Has Really Been A Problem On This Car!!! In The Atlanta/July/90 Degree
Heat, I Am Not A Happy Camper And Am Having A Problem Getting This
Fixed..."What's The Brain Surgery Here?" I Had Work Done Less Than 24 Hours
Ago, And It's Back Out. It Puts Out Hot Air, But It Does Run.  Cheveron
Charged Me $72.00 And Told Me It Would Last Until; Yhe End Of The Year Unless
The Compressor Blew, The About 18 Hours Later I Was Back Where I Started.
 The Local Olds Dealership (Bob Davis) Is Giving Me A 48+ Hour Turn Around
Time.(Is This Normal?) At This Point I Feel Taken Advantage Of And Just Want
The Problem Fixed!  I Have Just Gone Over My Extended Warranty Time, So I
Know We're Talking Some Money Here, But I'm In Between Careers And Don't Want
Someone To Take Me For The Little Bit I Have Left.

Can Anybody Help Me?!
MEOW IZ@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 21:06:52 +0000
From: TERRANCE ROHNER <tthiel@lyrea.com>
Subject: air conditioning problems

my airconditioner in my wife's car doesn't work. The compressor isn't
turning on. I checked the fuses and there all right. I'm not a dummy
when it comes to mechanics but it's the wife's car and I very seldom
drive it so I really could care less if it works or not but she's been
bitching about me working on my own stuff and not hers so I know
eventually she will make me fix it. so if anyone has any suggestions
please send them? thanks,


               Terrance

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 23:09:59 -0400
From: "Terry Teague" <dawgs@conninc.com>
Subject: Re: air conditioning problems

ok you need to check the low pressure switch on the compressor. It is a
round plug with one black wire going to it.  Disconnect the wire and
ground it out, if the compressor comes on you are low in freon.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 21:43:22 -0500
From: ngomez@airmail.net (Nick Gomez)
Subject: Old Tools/Muscle Car Review

Does anyone know of a source of old tools, such as the ones listed in my
1965 Olds Chassis Service manual. The coil spring compressor used looks
cheap, but it would fit, and I need one. It's tool BT-6505. Does someone
here have one that I could rent? =)

Also, if anyone wants the number to Muscle Car Review, let me know. You can
order back issues from them, they seem to have a lot of Olds cars featured,
and is a fun magazine. Let me know.
Nick

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Jul 1997 07:14:18
From: Chris Matthes <cdogg73@elknet.net>
Subject: Re: 73 build-up phases 1, 2, and 4 commence the 23rd

At 04:56 PM 7/11/97 -0600, you wrote:
> Do earlier Cutlass's have this bar?  If so
>how are you getting by this?
>
>Thanks again...>

my 73 has this bar, i tried to unbolt on both sides, but the engineers at
oldsmobile are jerks, so i had to saw one side off, it headers fit great
with those out of the way

Chris Matthes

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 20:52:48 -0700
From: Keith Linkous <linkous@ibm.net>
Subject: 70 442 parts wanted

Looking for parts for 70 442 Conv., white top, pearl interior, Matador
Red outside, black inside plastic.  Need rear armrest courtesy light
lenses, black dashboard ashtray door, black kick panels.  Console
w/Hurst shifter OK except for locking compartment door which is snapped
off and gone.   Are there any tach/clocks out there to fill the empty
white hole where the dumb aftermarket tach was?  How about a 1970 455 to
replace the 73 there now?  Or a stock radio?

Please send a parts list or source name.  I would really appreciate it.

Thanks -
Keith Linkous
linkous@ibm.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 22:16:16 +0000
From: TERRANCE ROHNER <tthiel@lyrea.com>
Subject: The Wife

Please disregard the message about the air conditioner in my car.  If my
husband can't take time out of his busy scheduel to do something nice
for me then I will just have to get it done myself!!!  I'd rather pay
whatever the cost is to get it fixed than listen to him bitch at me
'cause he had to actually think about me for a change!

------------------------------

Date: 10 Jul 1997 20:40:06 PST
From: mjones@dragon.gleep.com
Subject: Re: Small Block Exhaust Manifolds

OL>I am picking up an Olds 350, and I noticed the exhuast manifolds are
OL>very different than my 85 307.  The 307's are logs, just a tube with
OL>opening for the ports, and an exit.  What is the best ~emissions~
OL>compliant manifolds should I look for?  AIR system is not something that
OL>will be reinstalled.  Not without major mods first!

OL>I just want unrestricted exhuast, headers may be a consideration, but
OL>not initially.  I just need some manifolds that I can bolt in with the
OL>350.

OL>Thanks!
OL>Thomas Martin
OL>85 Cutlass Supreme 307 (which is about to grow up)

Actually from what I've seen on my '78 Delta with the 350 in it, the
emissin tubes go into the HEADS, and the manifolds have no provisions on
them for AIR tubes, unlike ch*vies taht ran AIR pumps.

So you won't have to worry about finding 'emission compliant' manifolds
really.

Mike Jones
'78 Olds 88

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 00:35:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: digest 742 reply

Sorry for the format, filks, but only way to reply to the digest easily is to
cop & past to word proc document, so there'll be no ">" before each prev.
author's text...

- --they said--
In the process of working on a differential I have come across the need for
a very sensitive torque wrench. The torque spec on the pinion nut when
using the old bearings is 8-12 inch pounds (Thanks Robert Barry and Mike
Rothe). At the present time I do not have ready access to the specialty
tool distributors, and the retail outlets I frequent do not carry torque
wrenches this precise. I would appreciate any recommendations on a quailty
tool. On the other hand, if there is a "shade tree" technique for
accurately setting a torque this light without a specialty tool, I would
like to hear it.
Ray

- --reply--
Well, Ray, what I did once was to weld a pc of pipe to a flat bar. Said bar
drilled to match the 2 far holes of the diff input flange. Said pipe now looks
sorta like a very short driveshaft welded right to the flange on the diff. Wrap
string around the pipe, use a spring scale like for weighing fish to pull
gently & steadily on the string. Force on string & RADIUS, mind you, of the
pipe then yield the tork used to turn that diff. I assume you can convert Oz to
lb, inches to feet if need be. It worked for me. A real CBE award winner...
[Crude But Effective].

- --they said--
Subject: Lightening Rods
There is a part store near that has a set of lighting Rods from a
Hurst Olds. I have a 64 Olds and a Th350. I was curious to know how
and what is involved to install a set of these.
Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>

- --reply--
Rick, forget it, they'd be a BIG, LONG project to install. The best thing you
could do would be to just forget it. Oh, do you have the name of that place
that has those shifters? ;-) Maybe their phone number, what they were asking
for them?


- --they said--
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Suggestions on electronic Ignition replacement

> It has a stock dist. with a mag.
> pickup install and a control box mounted on the fender.

- --reply--
PLEASE check that dist'r number for me. Sounds a LOT like a factory PEI or
"UHV" system to me. If it's an 1111470 dist'r, that's high on my list of "ain't
got yets"... What size is the box on the inner fender? Where on which fender?
Shoot, I dunno, I been off the list so long, maybe you already know the UHV
system and know that yours is not it?

- --they said--
From: S/P 0666 <olds442@en.com>
Subject: Speaking of ram rods

The 69 442 I have a line on has a dual snorkel air cleaner with a "Ram
Rod 400" sticker badly peeling and faded.  Would this be the air cleaner
that is fetching such a high price?  And if it is said air cleaner and
it is an original part of this car would not this car be a W-30 or W-29?
Ken

- --reply--
Sure sounds like the one, Ken. I'd be pretty excited to see one of them on a
car for sale cheapish. I'd use a crude "Guy" term but for the ladies who read
this stuff...
  That air cleaner might have come on a W30 or might just have been added...
Back in 1980 when I was assembling my 67 Cutlass, I needed an air cleaner, went
down to the dealer, inquired... as to the 67 W30 unit, clueless as to what it
was/ meant/ etc. except that W30 was probably "good". $250, they said... "TOO
MUCH" said I. Damn I wish I'd have bought a dozen of them now. I ended up with
a JC Gypme $12 special that I never did like much. Lasted month or 2...


- --they said--
> > are small block exhaust manifolds interchangeable?

FYI, I have a set of '74 350, '75 350, and '75 455 manifolds, all of
which look EXACTLY the same on the outside, but I don't know about port
sizes..  Different years and body styles change the dump-angles though
(My '69 455 was way different)  I believe this is like motor mounts,
where the year/model determines the shape/size?

- --reply--
Yeah, to an extent. Port sizes are similar, though SB's are about 1/4" less
tall... and the really late 2A?/ 6A/ 7A heads from 260's?, 307's have those
welded assembly xmans that fit nothing but their little girly-ports. [Sorry,
ladies, no offense meant] Biggest factor is usually SHAPE. Big Car vs. A-body
vs. Toro. Most common swap is to can the typical ª1/4 or ª1/5 small block pair
for the W/Z or similar big block dual-xst pair, in an A-body [Cutlassy] car.
I.e., Cutlass, Vista, 442, etc.
  Generally speaking, as with most castings, number = little boy, Letter = big
bloke [sic].

- --they said--
Eric Aksomitis:
Virtual Junkyard: Current count -> 5 vehicles
Oldsmobile Index: Current Count -> 8 vehicles

- --reply--
Virtual Junkyard: Current count -> 50 vehicles
- --
Chris  B. Witt
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 00:43:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Few 72 parts

So, there's a '72 Cutlass 4-door at the local scrap yard... I see 7a heads,
covet, arrange to buy. Then I see the PRIMO dashboard... etc. after pulling the
heads, arrange to get the whole car. OK, the backyard was temporarily
carless...

Before you fellers with convertibles get all excited... this is Michigan.
Decklid is way gone, as is rest of body. No fenders. No hood. So, what *is*
left you ask? Well...

Totally perfect Gold dash, unmolested radio hole even. NICE woodgrain. [You
there, Doug!?]. Uhm, 7a heads!, 2V intake? No interest in that I bet. Heck, I
can't even get a nibble on the "Strict Dominatrix" :-)  Holley intake I offered
up for $65!
  Seatbelts? Haven't even investigated them yet.
  Manual drum brakes! Go figger. Parts to restore a W-car to it's original
"darn-near-adequate" braking system?
  I think the windshield is still good. Other 4-door glass.

More as the story develops. Film at 11.
Interested parties may party with me as follows:
- --
Chris  B. Witt
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
517-882-9747

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 00:45:40 -0400
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: How to blow a head gasket (and one way to avoid it?)

Took the 403 out to do some shopping today; parked at a grocery store, went
in for about 15 minutes, came out, started the car, and it ran fine. At the
exit to the store, I had to pull into traffic, so I opened her up, and
suddenly got a *lot* of pinging and missing that did not go away. :(

Back home, checked the timing, and everything was spot on; also clamped the
pickup on each wire, and found all cylinders to be firing away (there goes
the easy fix...). Then I did a compression test, which I'd been meaning to
do for a while, and got 170 +/-5 psi on every cylinder, *except* on ª's 3
and 5, which were both at 40psi. Pulled the head, and sure enough, there was
a non-stock passageway through the head gasket. So, the head's off to the
machine shop tomorrow morning for a surfacing, and hopefully back tomorrow
afternoon so this all goes together for a short trip I was planning on
taking this Saturday.

My interest is in *why* the head gasket blew when it did, and I think I have
a theory. When you park a car after having driven it for a while, the engine
temperature rises, since the coolant is no longer circulating. If the heads
are going to warp through differing rates of expansion in the casting, they
will be *most* warped when the engine is at its hottest, and a head gasket
has the *least* clamping force from a distorted cylinder head. Add in the
fact that the spacing between the cylinder walls on a 403 is slightly more
than a hairline, the extra pressure from a WOT burst on an engine that's
been "heat-soaking" for a bit and has just been started up is probably
enough to blow a head gasket.

So, new procedure for driving my 403 is no WOT until the temp needle has
dropped down below 200 after having sat (it heat-soaks up to about 230'-240'
after about 5-10 minutes of sitting on a hot day, and since that's just the
coolant temp, the heads are probably quite a bit hotter than that,
especially at the wall between the cylinders, where there is no cooling
passages, and *especially* in the wall between the middle two cylinders,
where the exhaust valves are on either side of it).
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: 10 Jul 1997 21:00:20 PST
From: mjones@dragon.gleep.com
Subject: Valvetrain probs

Hello, my 350 in my '78 delta 88 has been having some valvetrain
problems lately, the intake valve on ª6 cylinder is not sealing
correctly, therefore causing a soot/carbon buildup inside the intake
runner.  I'm going to take the valve cover off on Saturday to see what
kind of parts I need, but I have heard a lot about how 350's have
valvetrain noise/rocker pedestala wear down fast, etc and I was
wondering what kind of damage do you think is happening?  I know this
could be caused by a stuck lifter, a burned valve (let's hope not), and
worn pedestals/rockers, bent pushrods, etc.  I was wondering what was
the most common part to replace in the valvetrain..  Engine has 81k on
it, burns a quart of oil every 3000 miles, has an edelbrock performer
manifold/stock Q-jet, and the bottom end has bever been apart.

Mike Jones
'78 Delta 88

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 00:56:44 -0400
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Old Tools/Muscle Car Review

At 09:43 PM 7/10/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Does anyone know of a source of old tools, such as the ones listed in my
>1965 Olds Chassis Service manual. The coil spring compressor used looks
>cheap, but it would fit, and I need one. It's tool BT-6505. Does someone
>here have one that I could rent? =)

Well, the same tool is shown in the 1969 Olds shop manual, but it's not the
only tool that will remove a front coil spring. I've used an aftermarket
internal coil-spring compressor (made by KD or Lisle, or someone like that)
that seems a whole lot less-awkward than that factory-recommended tool. It
seems that GM technicians preferred to remove the spring by dropping the
inner part of the lower A-arms. You could, of course, duplicate this tool
with stuff from a hardware store; after all, the tool is basically just a
long rod run where the shock was located, which eases the pressure on the
spring gradually. If you did build a tool yourself, just make sure that you
use high-quality threaded rod, since that is bearing the pressure of a few
hundred (thousand) pounds from that spring.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 22:09:39 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: Lightning Rods

Ryan Hehn wrote:
>
> Hey, wait a minute... Don't 83-84 Hurst/Olds have TH350's & the
> lightning rods??  I didn't think the 200R4 was built strong enough until
> '85 to be coupled with the 307 (9)...
>

Nope, we have the 200-4R.  So did the Monte SS's and Turbo Buicks of
those years.  The H/O tranny is specially tuned with a different valve
body and some different springs and valves in it that supposedly make it
stronger (as well as shift really nice!)

Besides, Lightning rods for a TH350 would be boring.  Only two rods!

BTW, there's a picture of the lightning rods at
http://www.ior.com/~tlentz/hurst.html

Tom Lentz
tlentz@ior.com
'84 Hurst/Olds

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª744
********************************
