To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #732


oldsmobile-digest         Wednesday, 25 June 1997      Volume 01 : Number 732

Re: Re[2]: '67 98 4 door
Re: Looking for tires  225-75-14
X-Status: ON 32768
unsubscribe odsmobile
Who Oldsmobile?
who cares
Re: Looking for tires  225-75-14
Re: tire pressure
Re: Looking for tires 225-75-14
Re: tire pressure
Re: Re[2]: '67 98 4 door
Re: Re[2]: '67 98 4 door
Re: tire pressure
dash chrome installation
Re: a good deal gone bad
whitewall cleaner?
Re: High RPM Problem
Re: High RPM Problem
Tire cleaner
Re:
ADMIN: List Rules
330 engine swap
Re: Edlebrock Intake Manifold
Re: High heat
Re: a good deal gone bad
Coker Tires: source for whitewalls and wheels of all sorts
Re: High RPM Problem
Re: High heat
Re: whitewall cleaner?
Re: Running hot
Re: GTO
New address....
Re: High RPM problem
Re: 86 442, Need engine ideas...
Re: Re: High RPM Problem
Re: tire pressure
Re: '69 H/O sighting at Old Town
Leaking rear main seal.
Looking for a heater shut off solution.
Re: dash chrome installation
My life updated, Rockit, Lifters, Servers, etc...
Re: Misc: My Olds Week under my LONG-term project SX
FW: tire pressure
Lansing?
Re: ADMIN: List Rules
Re: dash chrome installation
Re: a good deal gone bad
Re: Re[2]: '67 98 4 door
engine color
Re: Lansing?
Lansing: Where Are You?
Re: High RPM Problem
Re: Leaking rear main seal.
Re: Misc: My Olds Week under my LONG-term project SX
Re: 86 442, Need engine ideas...

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 15:39:31 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: '67 98 4 door

At 03:34 PM 6/24/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Thanks Greg. I'll see what's in the trunk, if I can get it open! The huge
>metal vacuum resevoir is in good shape. No heads for sure on this one, but
>maybe a rubber trunk mat or at least the passenger rubber mat. I guess I
>could always take the rear seat out and crawl through to pop the trunk!

If it has the vacuum release, take a vacuum pump and attach it to the hose
coming out of the switch in the glovebox and going to the trunk; if you're
lucky, the hose won't be damaged and you'll pop the trunk with a few
squeezes (did this on my '68 Toro that came without keys). If you don't have
a vacuum pump, just park a car near it and run a length of vacuum hose from
the running car's intake to that trunk hose.

BTW, I've got the complete setup for a '68 Caprice, which doesn't run off
engine vacuum at all; instead, it has a little plunger you pull, which
generated enough vacuum to open the trunk. Pretty neat.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 15:39:29 -0300
Subject: Re: Looking for tires  225-75-14

At 02:50 PM 6/24/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Hi everyone,thanks for taking the time to read this.I am looking for
>tires for my 62 STARFIRE. I would like to have red lines but I'm sure
>they would be more than I could afford. I would like to fine a whitewall
>that is either 3/8 inch or  1/2 inch. I found smoothies and knockoffs
>but can't seem to find tires thanks for your help.... LARRY
>   6   2     S    T   A    R    F   I    R    E

At the Berejik car show, the goodie bag had a Coker Tire catalog; virtually
_every_ tire ever produced is being reproduced through them, and they have
white, red, and gold-wall tires in all widths, as well as the double or
triple thin whitewall tires that were around for a few years. They also have
radial tires that look like the old bias-ply tires, if original looks and
modern comfort are your interest.

Are they on the web? Whatever the case, I'll post their number and address
tonight if I can.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: dk0009@epfl2.epflbalto.org (Douglas Kitchener)
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 15:50:41 -0300
Subject: X-Status: ON 32768

who Oldsmobile

------------------------------

From: Bryan Bodine <bbodine@matrix.uti.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 18:21:31 -0300
Subject: unsubscribe odsmobile

unsubscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

From: dk0009@epfl2.epflbalto.org (Douglas Kitchener)
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 16:31:44 -0300
Subject: Who Oldsmobile?

Whoops, sorry, the "who oldsmobile" message awhile ago was mine, should have
gone to the Major Dumbo.

Sorry about that, I know who Oldsmobile is!  :)

Doug

------------------------------

From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 17:01:22 -0300
Subject: who cares

Date:97-06-24 08:48:20 EDT
From:jdkim@lvdi.net (Kaye Kimball)
Sender:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
Reply-to:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
To:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

> Okay guys, listen to my story.

Hey Matt,  believe it or not there are some GIRLS who read this list.

>We were just lopin along the streets lookin
> for whoever or chicks
 I don't know bout you but I always have better luck finding "CHICKS" on a
farm.

*************************************
IN AS MUCH AS OUR CARS ARE NO LONGER POLITICALLY CORRECT, WHY SHOULD THE WAY
WE TALK ABOUT THEM BE EITHER.....EH, BABE?

------------------------------

From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 12:08:13 -0300
Subject: Re: Looking for tires  225-75-14

larry polesnak wrote:
>
> Hi everyone,thanks for taking the time to read this.I am looking for
> tires for my 62 STARFIRE. I would like to have red lines but I'm sure
> they would be more than I could afford. I would like to fine a whitewall
> that is either 3/8 inch or  1/2 inch. I found smoothies and knockoffs
> but can't seem to find tires thanks for your help.... LARRY
>    6   2     S    T   A    R    F   I    R    E


Larry,

I am like you in that I would like to find some 235x75x14 tires for my
1961 Continental.  If you get a clue to some of these as radials, please
share it.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 17:12:33 -0300
Subject: Re: tire pressure

In a message dated 97-06-24 14:46:35 EDT, you write:

<<
 On Mon, 23 Jun 1997, "John M. Loban" <cyberpsych@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
 >In response to " the tire manufacturer usually puts the recommended tire
 >pressure on the tire"   Wrong!!!!!!!!   This is in my opinion the most
 >misunderstood aspect of car ownership.  Every tire has the maximum
 >recommended pressure for that tire listed on the tire.  That means any
 >more pressure than recommeded and all guarantees are off if something
 >happens to the tire.  It in know way is meant to be a specific
 >recommendation for a particular car.  That information is in the owners
 >manual or posted in a comvenient place like the door jamb.  Tire
 >pressure is directly related to the size of the rubber footprint your
 >car makes.  This is taken into consideration by the car engineers when
 >they design braking, weight balance  (percent front vs. rear) cornering
 >etc.  Too much pressure and the footprint is smaller than needed and a
 >ruff ride.   This can then affect braking, tire spinning etc.  Many rear
 >engine cars (Porche, Corvairs) require 5-8 pound difference in an effort
 >to shift weight forward and equalize footprint size.  With ABS brakes
 >and electronic traction control it becomes even more important.  And if
 >you have a pre-radial tire car your probably going to have to run more
 >pressure that was recommended for the old bias-belted.  Example: my '63
 >starfire calls for 24 lbs pressure.  Impossible to run that low in
 >radial tires without creating wobble.  I run 32LBS.  Trial and error
 >method determined this.  Even tire shops seem to be making this mistake
 >about tire pressure and the kids working a rapid oil change places are
 >also usually mis-informed. Ask around most people know nothing about the
 >importance of tire pressure -  maybe I've taught a few now.  Sorry for
 >this lecture and remember to ckeck pressure when the tires are cold.
 >
  >>
SO WHAT YOUR SAYING IS IT DOESNT MATTER WHAT THE TIRES SAY OR WHAT THE CAR
SAYS, JUST FIGURE IT OUT YOURSELF....

------------------------------

From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 17:26:26 -0300
Subject: Re: Looking for tires 225-75-14

In a message dated 97-06-24 16:18:09 EDT, you write:

<< Subj:Looking for tires 225-75-14
 Date:97-06-24 16:18:09 EDT
 From:bullets@sgi.net (larry polesnak)
 Sender:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
 Reply-to:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
 To:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca (olds)

 Hi everyone,thanks for taking the time to read this.I am looking for
 tires for my 62 STARFIRE. I would like to have red lines but I'm sure
 they would be more than I could afford. I would like to fine a whitewall
 that is either 3/8 inch or  1/2 inch. I found smoothies and knockoffs
 but can't seem to find tires thanks for your help.... LARRY
    6   2     S    T   A    R    F   I    R    E
  >>

HAVE YOU TRIED COKER TIRE? THEY MAKE REMANS OF ALL SORTS OF TIRES....GOOD
LUCK...MIGHT HELP

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 17:25:33 -0300
Subject: Re: tire pressure

At 05:12 PM 6/24/97 -0300, you wrote:
> On Mon, 23 Jun 1997, "John M. Loban" <cyberpsych@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
[snip]
> >misunderstood aspect of car ownership.  Every tire has the maximum
> >recommended pressure for that tire listed on the tire.  That means any
> >more pressure than recommeded and all guarantees are off if something
> >happens to the tire.  It in know way is meant to be a specific
[snip]
> >and electronic traction control it becomes even more important.  And if
> >you have a pre-radial tire car your probably going to have to run more
> >pressure that was recommended for the old bias-belted.  Example: my '63
> >starfire calls for 24 lbs pressure.  Impossible to run that low in
> >radial tires without creating wobble.  I run 32LBS.  Trial and error
> >method determined this.  Even tire shops seem to be making this mistake
[snip]
>  >>
>SO WHAT YOUR SAYING IS IT DOESNT MATTER WHAT THE TIRES SAY OR WHAT THE CAR
>SAYS, JUST FIGURE IT OUT YOURSELF....

No, in fact he's saying that you should pay attention to what the tires
*actually* say, and that what they say is that the pressure they give you
there is the *maximum* safe pressure to use on the car, not the pressure you
*should* be using.

He's also saying that you *should* follow what the sticker on the car says,
*if* you are using the tires (type and size) that their recommendation was
made for.

OTOH, if you are using some _other_ kind of tire, then those pressures on
the door-jamb sticker may no longer apply, and yes, you just have to figure
it out yourself (though he's provided the helpful rule of thumb of a bit
more pressure in radial tires, which I've found works quite well).

BTW, ALL CAPS implies shouting.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 17:32:15 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: '67 98 4 door

In a message dated 97-06-24 16:22:30 EDT, you write:

<< Subj:Re: Re[2]: '67 98 4 door
 Date:97-06-24 16:22:30 EDT
 From:rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu (Robert Barry)
 Sender:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
 Reply-to:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
 To:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

 At 03:34 PM 6/24/97 -0300, you wrote:
 >Thanks Greg. I'll see what's in the trunk, if I can get it open! The huge
 >metal vacuum resevoir is in good shape. No heads for sure on this one, but
 >maybe a rubber trunk mat or at least the passenger rubber mat. I guess I
 >could always take the rear seat out and crawl through to pop the trunk!

 If it has the vacuum release, take a vacuum pump and attach it to the hose
 coming out of the switch in the glovebox and going to the trunk; if you're
 lucky, the hose won't be damaged and you'll pop the trunk with a few
 squeezes (did this on my '68 Toro that came without keys). If you don't have
 a vacuum pump, just park a car near it and run a length of vacuum hose from
 the running car's intake to that trunk hose.

 BTW, I've got the complete setup for a '68 Caprice, which doesn't run off
 engine vacuum at all; instead, it has a little plunger you pull, which
 generated enough vacuum to open the trunk. Pretty neat.
 _______________________________________________________
 Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
 Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
  >>

A FRIEND AND I PICKED UP SOME ELECTRIC TRUNK RELEASES FROM TORONADOS THAT
WORK VERY WELL WITH LITTLE OR NO MODIFICATIONS, DEPENDING ON YEAR AND MODEL
AND SUCH.  I HAVE A CONVERTIBLE ON WHICH  I HID A BUTTON IN A VERY HANDY
PLACE . CAN BE DISABLED IF NEEDED OR WILL OPEN TRUNK WITHOUT KEY ON..

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 17:43:33 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: '67 98 4 door

At 05:32 PM 6/24/97 -0300, you wrote:
> >Thanks Greg. I'll see what's in the trunk, if I can get it open! The huge
> >metal vacuum resevoir is in good shape. No heads for sure on this one, but
> >maybe a rubber trunk mat or at least the passenger rubber mat. I guess I
> >could always take the rear seat out and crawl through to pop the trunk!
[snip]
>A FRIEND AND I PICKED UP SOME ELECTRIC TRUNK RELEASES FROM TORONADOS THAT
>WORK VERY WELL WITH LITTLE OR NO MODIFICATIONS, DEPENDING ON YEAR AND MODEL
>AND SUCH.  I HAVE A CONVERTIBLE ON WHICH  I HID A BUTTON IN A VERY HANDY
>PLACE . CAN BE DISABLED IF NEEDED OR WILL OPEN TRUNK WITHOUT KEY ON..

What year Toronados were they from? An electric system might be a better
retrofit for a car that didn't come with it from the factory.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 18:07:29 -0300
Subject: Re: tire pressure

STEVEN METH wrote:
>
> What is the proper tire pressure for a 1985 olds regency? I have
>michelin
> tires ªxw4's. await your reply. Thanks!


Uhhh, the tire manufacturer usually puts the recommended pressure right
on the tire.  Usually somewhere around 30-35 psi.  Look for it on the
sidewall of the tire.


Dave Paulison                    1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida                1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com

------------------------------

From: helle@theonramp.net (Jim Helle)
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 18:15:24 -0300
Subject: dash chrome installation

I am trying to install some new dash chrome and can't get the clips on
the back of the piping. Does anyone have any idea if I put the clip in
the end and slide it around or do I some how put the clip in the piping
close to where it will fit on the grill.

Jim Helle

------------------------------

From: "Chris Urban" <urbanch@magi.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 18:23:07 -0300
Subject: Re: a good deal gone bad

David
You should say who the seller was so as to protect others that may be duped
by him. I buy things off this list all the time but have so far been lucky,
I would not hesitate exposing anyone who was not exactly honest and taking
advantage of people. This list is here for the enthusiasts and there should
be some common courtesy and respect displayed here? If you don't feel like
bringing this matter into the open I'd appreciate a personal email so then
at least I could avoid this person in the future.
      Thanks
Chris Urban
 ----
From: david harmon <hot69w30@webtv.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Date: June 24, 1997 12:28 AM
Subject: a good deal gone bad

>There's an old saying that goes - if it sounds too good to be true, it
>probably is.  That is my feeling from the recent purchase of a 69 olds
>fender.  After a long wait the fender arrived this past Friday.  To my
>suprise it was far less than the description I had received from the
>seller.
>I requested a fender by e-mail using this list and it went something
>like this.....
>"I need a right fender for a 69 cutlass, little or no rust, and NO CRASH
>DAMAGE".  The fender I received was virtually rust free, but the crash
>damage is another story.   The fender is now at a body shop in hopes of
>repair & to my dismay more money$$$.  I was told that all I would need
>to do is to drill some holes for chrome & weld up a few emblem holes -
>THAT WAS FAR FROM THE TRUTH.
>
>The moral of this story is:
>  COD shipments only
>
>The reason I don't name the seller is because it's my own fault.....I
>should have known better.   I take this as a lesson learned and hope
>that you will not make the same mistake.
>
>Sincerely,
>David Harmon
>
> ~~~69~~~                                                      ~olds~
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: "Bruce Marshall" <bruce@shore.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 17:21:16 -0300
Subject: whitewall cleaner?

I'm a new subscriber to this list.

I'll bet this question has been asked before but...

I have a '41 Olds that has been sitting out for a while getting the engine
rebuilt.  The whitewalls are pretty grungy now and need to be cleaned.  I
have hear that the cleaner sold by Corker Tire is "the best".

What *is*  the best stuff/procedure to use?

Please reply directly to me.  bruce@shore.net

Bruce Marshall

1941 Olds 66

"Dear Dorothy, Hate Oz. Took the shoes.  Find your own way home." Toto

------------------------------

From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 19:37:08 -0300
Subject: Re: High RPM Problem

At 07:56 PM 6/23/97 -0300, you wrote:
>I have been fighting with this problem in my '66 Ninety Eight for a while.
It >has the original 425 still in it.  It only has 93,000 miles on it but
plenty of >problems as always.  It idles and runs very well.  When I step it
to the floor >the car will take off hard and then start to spit and sputter
and backfire when >it gets to the high RPM's just before it's about to shift.
If I back off the >pedal just a little bit it will shift and stop doing this.
I have put on an HEI >ignition, a Holley 600 CFM carb, and the timing has been
set.  I had this >problem before and after I put on the ignition and the
carb.  I think the fuel >pump is newer, but should I put on a new one anyway,
maybe a higher pressure one >like Holley's model ªHLY-12-836 that pumps 80 gph
at 7 psi.  Or do I need >something to increase the spark, like one of the
products from MSD ignition. >Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks
in advance! > > >

  Have you checked the timing chain and gears?  What your describing can be
caused by a worn/stretched chain.  Any easy check would be to remove the
distributor cap and while turning the crank shaft by hand watch the rotor
carefully to make sure that there is no delay between crank movement and
rotor movement. Check both directions to take up any slack that may be
hidden on you.  If there is a delay replace the timing chain and gears.

  Glenn
  '69 4-4-2
>
>

------------------------------

From: "CDHall" <cdhall@carol.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 20:35:00 -0300
Subject: Re: High RPM Problem

Last time I had a problem like yours, it was caused by the valves floating
due to the rocker arms too tight. This was caused by a poor quality valve
job and tops of the valve stems were too high. This was on a Poncho, and I
changed the rocker studs and used locking rocker arm nuts to back off on
the pressure on the lifters. I haven't found a way to do this on an Olds
yet.

  Daniel Hall
  cdhall@carol.net



- ----------
> From: Schaack's <shaqboyz@sbt.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: High RPM Problem
> Date: Monday, June 23, 1997 6:56 PM
>
> I have been fighting with this problem in my '66 Ninety Eight for a
while.  It
> has the original 425 still in it.  It only has 93,000 miles on it but
plenty of
> problems as always.  It idles and runs very well.  When I step it to the
floor
> the car will take off hard and then start to spit and sputter and
backfire when
> it gets to the high RPM's just before it's about to shift.  If I back off
the
> pedal just a little bit it will shift and stop doing this.  I have put on
an HEI
> ignition, a Holley 600 CFM carb, and the timing has been set.  I had this

> problem before and after I put on the ignition and the carb.  I think the
fuel
> pump is newer, but should I put on a new one anyway, maybe a higher
pressure one
> like Holley's model ªHLY-12-836 that pumps 80 gph at 7 psi.  Or do I need

> something to increase the spark, like one of the products from MSD
ignition.
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance!
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: dk0009@epfl2.epflbalto.org (Douglas Kitchener)
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 19:42:21 -0300
Subject: Tire cleaner

Bruce,

Best thing I've found for wws is Westley's Blechee-Wite, found at most self
service auto parts chains, probly also at Wal-mart, etc.  Wet tires a little
with a hose, spray on Bleche White, scrub with brush, rinse, let dry, and
dress, if you want, with No-Touch Tire Care.

I have used Bleche White on old tires just to clean them up to dismount thiem
without getting all grubby... amazing.  Will clean the ww on a junkyard tire.

Try it, let me know what you think.

Regards,

Doug Kitchener
dk0009@mail.pratt.lib.md.us

------------------------------

From: dk0009@epfl2.epflbalto.org (Douglas Kitchener)
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 20:26:29 -0300
Subject: Re:

> BTW, ALL CAPS implies shouting.

Which is considered rude...

Thanks, Bob, you did that with 'way more tact than I could have managed, and
it was bothering me, too!

Doug
dk0009@mail.pratt.lib.md.us

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 20:48:29 -0300
Subject: ADMIN: List Rules

Having read some of the traffic while I was away, and having continued to
do so this week, I think I need to remind some folks about the rules of
engagement here, as outlined in the welcome message you received when you
s*bscribed.

One of my jobs here is to ensure that the list is a friendly place, and
that people will not hesitate to post due to fear of being embarrassed or
otherwise taken to task. Basically the messages should read like a
conversation would sound. Shouting at someone or agressively arguing a
point would not be acceptable in a conversation with someone you do not
know, and the same holds true here. We encourage *polite* debate, not
in-your-face put-downs. Please take note of that fact.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Ryan Hehn <ryanh@docker.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 21:02:01 -0300
Subject: 330 engine swap

I have a few more questions regarding a possible swap of a '65 330 into
an '81 Cutlass.

The car currently has a 267 SBC v/8.  Does the 330 use the same motor
mounts as a 455 would?  I know a few of you have done 455 swaps into
your G-bodies, so I'm trying to get a feel for how similar this would
be.

What about the dimensions of the 330?  Would I have to worry about A/C,
hood clearance, etc? Speaking of A/C, does the 330 have provisions for
such accessories?

Any help would be very much appreciated,

Ryan Hehn
ryanh@docker.com

------------------------------

From: WIONKING@aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 21:10:56 -0300
Subject: Re: Edlebrock Intake Manifold

 Yes I have experience with this manifold, would you like to but one I have a
used one in good shape for $50 if you are interested E-mail me back.

------------------------------

From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 00:15:59 -0300
Subject: Re: High heat

Steven LaCrosse wrote:
>
> Matt, Thanks for the note. If I had a leak, wouldn't I hear it first?

Not always. The crack might be very thin. In this case you might not
even hear it. You should also maybe have your tranny looked at. You may
have a fluid blockage somewhere. Just a thought.

- --
**********************************
Matt Cremean
Ev_Corp Main Admin.
delta_v plug G/S/O Admin.
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoft) Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 01:01:48 -0300
Subject: Re: a good deal gone bad

I am parting out a car - and I PREFER to send photo's of my parts first - I
have dealt with enough sight unseen parts myself to know its a tricky
business (no pun intended) and I like to put the goods up front to be seen
first.

You've got a good point about the COD except on the shippers end we have to
pay first & wait for the money (for shipping) and since I use my companies
account, that sometimes worries me.

Better luck on the next part.  I've got a '72 Vista Cruiser I'm parting out.


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '72 Vista Cruiser
, '69 Toronado (arriving in August)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 22:18:08 -0300
Subject: Coker Tires: source for whitewalls and wheels of all sorts

I mentioned earlier today that I got a very impressive Coker Tire catalog at
a recent Olds show. Well, here's how to contact them:

Customer Service: (800) 999-8973
Ordering:         (800) 251-6336
E-mail:           info@coker.com
Web page:         http://www.coker.com

and I suppose if you're in the neighborhood...

Coker Tire
1317 Chestnut Street
Chattanooga, TN 37402

There's a lot of real neat stuff in the catalog, kind of like a history of
automotive tires, as well as size conversions (i.e. a 760-15 = 855-15 =
H78-15 = P215/75R15 and so on) and pictures of all the tires they offer.

They also have musclecar rims of all sorts, including Olds SSI rims in 14x6,
14x7, 15x6 and 15x7 sizes (around $130 each, though obviously not original)
and SSI center caps ($40.50 each- OUCH!), plus Fiesta spinner caps for
custom cars ($22.50 each), trim rings, you name it. Sorry, no SSII or III
rims.

Of special interest to classic and musclecar people here might be their
radial wide-whitewall and redline tires.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 22:18:11 -0300
Subject: Re: High RPM Problem

At 08:35 PM 6/24/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Last time I had a problem like yours, it was caused by the valves floating
>due to the rocker arms too tight. This was caused by a poor quality valve
>job and tops of the valve stems were too high. This was on a Poncho, and I
>changed the rocker studs and used locking rocker arm nuts to back off on
>the pressure on the lifters. I haven't found a way to do this on an Olds
>yet.

You can achieve the same thing with shims on an Olds, but it sounds like the
problem on this engine is simply worn valve springs. It took my 455 until
about 5000rpm before it would hit valve float, but when it hit that ceiling,
it sounded like real bad things were happening under there. I recall one
time getting on a highway and neglecting to bump the shifter out of first
quick enough; as soon as I hit 60mph (it has a 2.56 rear), the thing started
popping; backed off, and everything was fine.

>> has the original 425 still in it.  It only has 93,000 miles on it but
[snip]
>> it gets to the high RPM's just before it's about to shift.  If I back off

Since the engine's basically stock, I'd have to say you don't need more fuel
than the factory pump can provide; check the pressure of the valve springs,
and see if they're anywhere near what they should be.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: DJV442@aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 22:23:20 -0300
Subject: Re: High heat

i would check to make sure the exhaust shields are in place(metal shields
between the floors and exh.sys.) this would definetaly cause hot
floors...perhaps dash too...
hope this helps...djv442@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 22:27:34 -0300
Subject: Re: whitewall cleaner?

At 05:21 PM 6/24/97 -0300, you wrote:
>I have a '41 Olds that has been sitting out for a while getting the engine
>rebuilt.  The whitewalls are pretty grungy now and need to be cleaned.  I
>have hear that the cleaner sold by Corker Tire is "the best".

Well, since I have the catalog out, let's see...

OK, here they list "Wide White Tire Cleaner," which is said to be "specially
formulated for the tough job of keeping wide whitewall tires looking white",
and "Big Classic" tire dressing that will "beautify without excess gloss."
They're $5.95 each, or $9.95 for both.

That's what they list; I don't know about that, though, since I've never
tried their products.

>What *is*  the best stuff/procedure to use?

I've had good luck with "Bleach-White"; spray it on a dry tire, let it soak,
spray on another coat and scrub with a stiff bristle brush (or a brass brush
for tough spots) that you've also sprayed the stuff on. Then, if there is
anything still dirty after this procedure, scrub it with a brillo pad. I
haven't found a tire protectant that I'm overjoyed with.

Good luck getting it back together! How long until it's on the road again?
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 22:31:33 -0300
Subject: Re: Running hot

On Tue, 24 Jun 1997 PaulP34167@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 97-06-23 22:52:00 EDT, you write:
>
> > I checked the coolant/water level, and it was fine.  The mixture is quite
> >  foamy however.
> >  I think I remember someone on this list commenting about a similar
problem > >  and mentioned that the foam indicates transmission fluid in the
radiator?? > >  Is that right? > > What color is the coolant?  If it has a
reddish substance floating around in > it, it's a transmission leak.

Or the other possible cause of high heat and foamy antifreeze, cracked
head/bad head gasket...  With good rad seal in your car  you can't pressure
test this too good, but it's happened to me twice.  Try pulling the plugs
one day and see what comes out (water is usually what I get..)

...............self-promo sig file Version 2.2...............
Eric Aksomitis:
Virtual Junkyard: Current count -> 5 vehicles
Oldsmobile Index: Current Count -> 8 vehicles
http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/       mailto:aksomi@cs.uregina.ca
Last update: 970620
..............................................................

------------------------------

From: S/P 0666 <olds442@en.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 22:22:36 -0300
Subject: Re: GTO

Daniel Dale wrote:

> no!  really??  You mean your modified big block oldsmobile actually managed
to > beat a stock GTO?  That is really something.

The extent of my 425 modifications are a quart of Slick 50 to stop the
rod knock and a neato see thru inline fuel filter.  If the GTOs in
question were stock why whould they be cruising for races?

> If my 66 GTO had a 69 Grand Prix
> 428, a 4 speed, and 4.11 gears I doubt it would have much trouble putting
the > hurt on some W-30's,

Ya think? I think a 1964-1997 Pontiac <insert model here> would be hard
pressed to
hang with one of the 52 1966 W-30 442's.

but I wouldn't go around bragging about it.

You mean if Racer X challenges you to a drag race and you beat him you
wouldn't tell your friends?

Ok, ok, I'll shut up.. but my guess would be that the original 400 would
run even better than the tired 100,000+ 425.. :P  Actually the rear end
gears are what beat them both. But thats not the point.  The point is
that 2 1967 GTO owners in the same evening mistakenly thought their
mighty Goats were fast. Faster even than a lowly 442 with an old guy
driving.  Two GTO owners were wrong.  Two GTO owners showed no respect
for Olds muscle.  Maybe two GTO owners will in the future.

Ken

------------------------------

From: Mike Hall <oldsmike@flash.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 23:45:00 -0300
Subject: New address....

My sincere apologies to anyone who has tried to reach me.

Here is my "REAL" E-Mail address:

oldsmike@flash.net

Regards,
Mike Hall


Michael R. Hall                                Ortonville, Michigan
Home E-Mail: oldsmike@flash.net
The Oldsmobile Stable:
     1971 Oldsmobile 442, A Work In Progress...
     1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S, 380 horses of pure Mondello fun...
     1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm, the classy one...

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 23:03:53 -0300
Subject: Re: High RPM problem

I don't know if this is really applicable to you or not.  FWIW,  I had
this EXACT same problem you describe right after I broke in my 455 in my
71 after a rebuild.  I used all the good stuff too, checked, rechecked
the timing, new plugs, rejetted the carb, bigger fuel pump and
lines......couldn't figure it out.  Every change I made did nothing in
the way of full throttle sputtering.  It ran like gangbusters right up
to the 5000 rpm pt, then WHAM, down came the nose, and what sounded like
popcorn....until I JUST let off the throttle a little bit.  Then it ran
fine.   I goofed around with the rocker adjustments endlessly
(adjustable kit) thinking I got the rockers too tight.   NOPE!  I
figured there was only one thing left.  The cam. A Joe Mondello 18-22.
I degreed it TWICE when I put it in, and checked it again right before I
yanked it out.  Right on the money.  Saved the Mondello cam button and
ring spacer for the new cam.  New cam-JM 20-22.  BEST move I did in that
regard.  Dialed up the new one, bolted everything back in place, and
ZOOM!  All the way up to the stratosphere with NO sputtering.  Pulled a
lot harder too.  Checked the old cam for flat spots.  It looked super.
No sign of abnormal wear.  TOSS!  In the trash.  And to this day, it has
run like a champ.

Maybe some insight.
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 00:26:46 -0300
Subject: Re: 86 442, Need engine ideas...

Frank Iezzi wrote:
>
> Hello to all,
> My 86 442 needs the engine rebuilt, ª3 cylinder has only 60lbs pressure,
> this 307 has been a good engine, but at 121K miles, what should I do?
> Rebuild the 307 or drop in a 350?
>
> And if I opt for the 350, what tips, hints, etc do you have for me on this
> swap?

Since I hear that 307's suck (or CAN'T for that matter, no offence), I
say if you got the money, go for the three-five-oh. If you really want
to be a power monger, drop in the Edelbrock Perf. RPM kit. It'll give it
that hearty feel many of us long to have.

JUST A FEW MORE WEEKS AND I'M MAKIN THE PURCHASE LADIES AND GENTLEMEN!!!
I'll have to upload a before and after sound bite on my web page as well
as pictures after the body work. I'm not gonna have my car for 2 WHOLE
WEEKS! *groan* It will be worth it.

- --
**********************************
Matt Cremean
Ev_Corp Main Admin.
delta_v plug G/S/O Admin.
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoft) Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

From: dk0009@epfl2.epflbalto.org (Douglas Kitchener)
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 23:24:19 -0300
Subject: Re: Re: High RPM Problem

> > From: Schaack's <shaqboyz@sbt.net>
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: High RPM Problem
> > Date: Monday, June 23, 1997 6:56 PM
> >
> > I have been fighting with this problem in my '66 Ninety Eight for a
> while.  It
> > has the original 425 still in it.  It only has 93,000 miles on it but
> plenty of
> > problems as always.  It idles and runs very well.  When I step it to the
> floor
> > the car will take off hard and then start to spit and sputter and
> backfire when
> > it gets to the high RPM's just before it's about to shift.  If I back off
> the
> > pedal just a little bit it will shift and stop doing this.

[SNIP]

Check for:  wires arcing; park car at night with engine idling and look for
blue flashes from wires as you accelerate engine speed.  If you still have
the stock air cleaner on it, these, as I recall, are large and fit closely to
the engine; a friend had a '67 Cutlass and the wires arced to the air cleaner
housing.

Also check to be certain that the choke door isn't closing up under high-flow
conditions... wire choke open and try it.  I had this problem with my '70
Cutlass Supreme convertible for over a year; kept throwing ignition parts at
it; wires, coil, cap, points, plugs, rotor, etc.  Wouldn't do it with the air
 cleaner off, so I thot it was ª1 above... but no evidence of arcing.
Neighbor finally figured it out, he had had a similar problem.  I didn't
believe it until we wired the choke open and the problem cleared!

Good luck!

Doug Kitchener
dk0009@mail.pratt.lib.md.us

------------------------------

From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 23:43:28 -0300
Subject: Re: tire pressure

Well, I may have jumped the gun a little in giving (incorrect) advice
concerning correct tire pressure; sorry about that.  However, I ~do~ use
a torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts on both of my cars...


Dave Paulison                    1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida                1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com

mrhell@m1.sprynet.com writes:
>I bet you use a torque wrench to tighten wheel lug nuts, don't >you?!?

>"John M. Loban"> wrote:
>>In response to " the tire manufacturer usually puts the recommended
>tire
>>pressure on the tire"   Wrong!!!!!!!!

------------------------------

From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 23:43:29 -0300
Subject: Re: '69 H/O sighting at Old Town

"David Brown" writes:
>Pauls posting reminds me of the '69 H/O I saw at the Old Town cruise
>in
>Kissimmee (sp?) FLA (Orlando, Disney area). I was just walking down
>the aisle of
>cars and THERE IT WAS.

If any of you folks are ever in the Central Florida area and plan on
attending this, let me know!  We'll get together.  Kissimmee is only
about 45 min or an hour from where I live, and I used to attend the
Saturday Night Cruise (it's ~official~ name) religiously.  There were/are
always beautiful Oldsmobiles there.  I've got quite a few pictures
somewhere around here...


Dave Paulison                    1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida                1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com

------------------------------

From: jeff antonucci <antonj@erols.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 23:47:29 -0300
Subject: Leaking rear main seal.

I seem to have a rear main seal leak.  When I park the car on a slight
incline a ton of oil comes out of the plastic flywheel shield on my
455.  I'm assuming this must be a rear main seal leak.  If so, what's
involved in replacing it.  I really want to just stop the leak for the
rest of the summer.

Any help would be appreciated.

Jeff.

'70 442 Conv.

------------------------------

From: jeff antonucci <antonj@erols.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 23:41:47 -0300
Subject: Looking for a heater shut off solution.

My feet are burning off from the hot air coming out of my heater core in
this 92+ degree heat.  My 70 442 conv. is non air.  Is there any way to
shut the hot water off and on?

Any one have a solution to this one?

Jeff

------------------------------

From: jeff antonucci <antonj@erols.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 23:28:31 -0300
Subject: Re: dash chrome installation

Put the clip in the end and slide it around.

Jeff

70 442 Conv.

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 00:53:46 -0300
Subject: My life updated, Rockit, Lifters, Servers, etc...

Well, it's been a busy weekend.  Spent ~many~ hours between the Rockit and the
'67 Toro (Lets just say ~that~ doesn't run any more...)  Times just got too
tight, and my other engine source backed out on me.  Soooo, the Rocket now
has a '67 Toro 425 in it.  Had quite the experiences with the swap, too.  We
all know the story of the 39' vs 45' cams, etc, and the big vs little
lifters, etc.  OK, the 425 I pulled out is out of a '67 RWD, and the 425
going in is the '67 Toro.  The RWD one has an unknown history.  It has the
small lifters, and the Toro has the large.  Both blocks have identical casting
numbers!
 (I'm not talking about just the "D" part, either) Does ~that~ make any
sense???  The Toro block had a broken intake rocker on ª7, along with a
dismantled lifter.  Found the guts laying in the lifter valley.  The snap
ring was all broken out.  Went to town (Wolf Point, this isn't in Havre any
more, I'm doing the swap at my parents' farm) and scoped out lifters for an
hour or so.  There's a '63 Dynamic 88 2 door htp there.  Spaced out the fact
that one of the emblems were needed, but noticed that one fender showed it as
an ynamic 88.  Didn't notice the other side.  Found no 425's though...  Went
thru the scrap engines, and found a newer 307.  Figured what the hell, I'll
pull the intake, just in case.  No rollers.  :(  But, there were like seven
lifters that had come apart.  Snap rings popped loose and pushrod hanging out
in the bottom of the plungers.  Anyone had this happen?  What causes that?

I ended up digging through their junk drawer thing of lifters, and took the
biggest one I could find.  I used that snap ring and put the lifter together.
The check ball retainer is damaged, so it'll probably be a bit noisy.  I hope
I don't seriously regret that move.  It can't be worse, and I can change it
out later without yanking the engine.  It shouldn't hurt the cam, anyway.
Ran out of time, and couldn't get it running yet.  I'll probably head back up
there tomorrow after work.  (the farm is 120 miles from Sidney, which is
where I'm at)  I ~miss~ my car!

My hitch ~should~ be here tomorrow.  I hope that engine does well...  I really
miss my stereo, and towing all night sucks without tunes.  That ch*vy's glove
box rattle is going to drive me batty!

Got the new server working today.  My new homepage will be at

http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner

as soon as I get it set up.  My address is

mailto:buehner@lyrea.com

as far as I know.  I haven't gotten any mail there yet, so I'm not positive.

My cis server is still alive, but it's been ~really~ slow lately.  I think the
battery's going dead.  Perhaps the school's smoke detector is putting too
much of a drain on it! Sometimes I wonder...  This is probably why the
Rocket Talk has been hard to get into? I haven't tried, so I can't say for
sure.

Better go.  I still need to do tons of stuff here.  This new store is great.
There's like 8 computers here to play with!  (Wow, am I ~ever~ gonna get
anything done?:)  The coworker (with the '85 442:) wants me to get Doom on
the network here.  Heh heh.  We'll ~never~ get anything done now!!! :)

------------------------------

From: "Steve B." <steveb@thecia.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 00:33:03 -0300
Subject: Re: Misc: My Olds Week under my LONG-term project SX

Robert Barry wrote:
>
> Sorry to ramble, but I'm really thrilled to *finally* be getting this thing
> back together. I had to put it off while I was in school, so for 12 years
> it's been merely a shell with a pair of frame-horns sticking out of it, but
> now it almost looks like a car! It'll be nice to bring my Olds-powered
> stable up to three (and get this thing back to my house where I can work on
> it, rather than loading up all my tools and travelling 2 hours to get at it
:( > _______________________________________________________ > Dr. Robert
Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu > Theology Dept, Providence
College, Providence, RI 02918

Bob, I can totally relate, I too put off finishing my car cause of
school and other more important projects (like making sure my daily
driver would get me to school every day) I bought my car in '86 when I
was a senior in high school and it spent most of its time in the garage
while I was in college. I have finally done it up the way I wanted to
back then (455, OAI hood, 12 bolt rear, etc.....) It was exciting to get
it back together after all these years, this was the first car I ever
bought, the first car I ever raced at a dragway (with the anemic 350 :(
)...I just can't believe that 11 years went by this fast.... Now I have
more plans for the car (stronger 455, maybe 4 or 5 speed and a Ford 9
inch rearend) hopefully it won't take as long for the next build up!!!!
;-) My goal is to get it into the 12's before I turn 30 so I have a year
and a half to spend money and spin wrenches, wish me luck ;-)

Steve
71 Cutlass S 455
93 Mustang LX 5.0

------------------------------

From: "STEVEN METH" <HORIZON23@msn.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 00:36:26 -0300
Subject: FW: tire pressure

- ----------
From:  METH[FAX:+1 (718) 692-2263]
Sent:  Sunday, June 22, 1997 8:30 PM
To:  'oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca'
Subject:  tire pressure

What is the proper tire pressure for a 1985 olds regency? I have michelin
tires ªxw4's. await your reply. Thanks!

------------------------------

From: dk0009@epfl2.epflbalto.org (Douglas Kitchener)
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 00:55:50 -0300
Subject: Lansing?

Oldsmobilers...

I've just signed on the list to try and find out what the Olds internet
group's plans are for the Centennial in Lansing... I'm not usually on because
of the amount of traffic generated, but have sorta monitored what's happening
via friends who s*bscribe (don't wanna use the secret word in case the Major
Dummy sees it and gets weird...).

Anyway, backalong, there was chatter about identifying our cars somehow as
being part of the internet activity; there was talk about trying to maybe get
all of us, or as many as feasible anyway, together in one place at one time
out there; and someone was keeping a list of who was leaving when, taking
what route, arriving when, driving what, and staying where.

Altho I'm not usually on this list, some of you will know me from the Toronado
 list, OCA, and its Rocket Road Assistance Program.  So just wondered where
that's all at, and if anything's been planned or talked about other than
what's above.

If y'all have been discussing this and I jumped in at the middle or the end,
sorry!

Thanks!

Doug Kitchener
dk0009@mail.pratt.lib.md.us
VP, Starfire - Jetstar I Chapter
Membership Manager, Toronado Chapter
Oldsmobile Club of America

------------------------------

From: dk0009@epfl2.epflbalto.org (Douglas Kitchener)
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 01:06:22 -0300
Subject: Re: ADMIN: List Rules

>
> Having read some of the traffic while I was away, and having continued to
> do so this week, I think I need to remind some folks about the rules of
> engagement here, as outlined in the welcome message you received when you
> s*bscribed.

[SNIP]

> Greg Beaulieu

Greg,

Hear, hear!  Thanx, I think that needed to be said... I just signed on, am not
 usually here but wondered what was going on with the newsgroup and the
Lansing thing (see other post), so thot I'd join up for awhile... and right
away I noticed a couple of posts that I didn't really think were "Kosher" so
to speak!

Thanks again, and best regards,

Doug Kitchener
dk0009@mail.pratt.lib.md.us

------------------------------

From: dhamlett@mitec.net
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 01:45:34 -0300
Subject: Re: dash chrome installation

Jim Helle wrote:
>
> I am trying to install some new dash chrome and can't get the clips on
> the back of the piping. Does anyone have any idea if I put the clip in
> the end and slide it around or do I some how put the clip in the piping
> close to where it will fit on the grill.
>
> Jim Helle

Jim,
 I'm not really sure what year your working on but Year One has Assembly
manuals for some years of Cutlass.  I just got mine last week and it has
been well worth the money.  It shows you how to properly install the
dash.

- --

- -----------------------------------------
      Dan Hamlett
      1966 Cutlass Convertible
      mailto:dhamlett@mitec.net
      http://www.mitec.net/~dhamlett
- -----------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: dhamlett@mitec.net
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 01:47:39 -0300
Subject: Re: a good deal gone bad

Chris Urban wrote:
>
> David
> You should say who the seller was so as to protect others that may be duped
> by him. I buy things off this list all the time but have so far been lucky,
> I would not hesitate exposing anyone who was not exactly honest and taking
> advantage of people. This list is here for the enthusiasts and there should
> be some common courtesy and respect displayed here? If you don't feel like
> bringing this matter into the open I'd appreciate a personal email so then
> at least I could avoid this person in the future.
>       Thanks
> Chris Urban
>  ----
> From: david harmon <hot69w30@webtv.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Date: June 24, 1997 12:28 AM
> Subject: a good deal gone bad
>
> >There's an old saying that goes - if it sounds too good to be true, it
> >probably is.  That is my feeling from the recent purchase of a 69 olds
> >fender.  After a long wait the fender arrived this past Friday.  To my
> >suprise it was far less than the description I had received from the
> >seller.
> >I requested a fender by e-mail using this list and it went something
> >like this.....
> >"I need a right fender for a 69 cutlass, little or no rust, and NO CRASH
> >DAMAGE".  The fender I received was virtually rust free, but the crash
> >damage is another story.   The fender is now at a body shop in hopes of
> >repair & to my dismay more money$$$.  I was told that all I would need
> >to do is to drill some holes for chrome & weld up a few emblem holes -
> >THAT WAS FAR FROM THE TRUTH.
> >
> >The moral of this story is:
> >  COD shipments only
> >
> >The reason I don't name the seller is because it's my own fault.....I
> >should have known better.   I take this as a lesson learned and hope
> >that you will not make the same mistake.
> >
> >Sincerely,
> >David Harmon
> >
> > ~~~69~~~                                                      ~olds~
> >
> >
> >
I agree completely.  The parts for my car are difficult enough to come
by without being jimmy-jammed by some jerk looking to hide behind an
email address.  PLEASE let us know who did this to you.

- --

- -----------------------------------------
      Dan Hamlett
      1966 Cutlass Convertible
      mailto:dhamlett@mitec.net
      http://www.mitec.net/~dhamlett
- -----------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 01:58:18 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: '67 98 4 door

In a message dated 97-06-24 22:54:30 EDT, you write:

<< >A FRIEND AND I PICKED UP SOME ELECTRIC TRUNK RELEASES FROM TORONADOS THAT
 >WORK VERY WELL WITH LITTLE OR NO MODIFICATIONS, DEPENDING ON YEAR AND MODEL
 >AND SUCH.  I HAVE A CONVERTIBLE ON WHICH  I HID A BUTTON IN A VERY HANDY
 >PLACE . CAN BE DISABLED IF NEEDED OR WILL OPEN TRUNK WITHOUT KEY ON..

 What year Toronados were they from? An electric system might be a better
 retrofit for a car that didn't come with it from the factory.
 _______________________________________________ >>


I THINK MOST WERE EARLY TO MID 70S. MAYBE 72-76? BEEN A COUPLE YEARS...NOT
SURE....NOT YELLING....

------------------------------

From: Amy Zidell <amylzid@concentric.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 20:15:50 -0300
Subject: engine color

I thought all Olds engines were gold.  Is gold the correct color for a
72 Cutlass Supreme?

Amy Z.

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 05:45:45 -0300
Subject: Re: Lansing?

Doug, it's timely that you asked about people's Lansing plans because I
was just about to see if we couldn't organize something here along the
same lines. There have been posts from a number of folks over the past
while saying where they are staying, etc., but no formal list has been put
together as far as I know. Yesterday I received my registration
confirmation from Bob Jarboe of Olds, so I think it's getting close to the
time where we should start thinking about organizing ourselves.

A while back you suggested the parking lot of the Holiday Inn West on
Tuesday night as the venue for a possible get-together. That might be as
good a place as any, though I wonder if Tuesday might not be too soon. If
it was in my power (right now it isn't, unfortunately) it would be neat to
have a Olds list HQ somewhere for people to drop by and mingle on a
regular basis during that week. Others have suggested other venues for
gatherings as well, but again, nothing has been formalized. I think at
this point any suggestions for organizing something would be welcomed.

As for who's staying where, failing a web page where people can post that
info, maybe we can do something here on the list that is compact and easy
to read. Stay tuned...


Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 05:56:22 -0300
Subject: Lansing: Where Are You?

NAMEHOTELDATESCAR
=================

Beaulieu, GregHampton Inn8/18-23none
Hirtle, DonHampton8/18-23none
Penny, SteveHampton8/18-23none
Smith, BrianHampton8/18-23none
Stewart, SandyHampton8/18-23none


This is the Halifax contingent as I know it right now. Maybe others here
can add their own info to it as well? It might get ugly-looking after a
while, but at least it's a start...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 07:22:11 -0300
Subject: Re: High RPM Problem

Robert Barry wrote:

> time getting on a highway and neglecting to bump the shifter out of first
> quick enough; as soon as I hit 60mph (it has a 2.56 rear), the thing started
> popping; backed off, and everything was fine.

Are you saying that you went to about 60 mph in first gear?!?!?!  Egads!
I wouldn't even dare to do that with my car.  Maybe 35-45 but that's it.
Maybe someone can post safe shifting speeds for our cars.  Just a
thought.

Chris Sparks
68 442
82 DRB

------------------------------

From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 07:45:36 -0300
Subject: Re: Leaking rear main seal.

jeff antonucci wrote:
>
> I seem to have a rear main seal leak.  When I park the car on a slight
> incline a ton of oil comes out of the plastic flywheel shield on my
> 455.  I'm assuming this must be a rear main seal leak.  If so, what's
> involved in replacing it.  I really want to just stop the leak for the
> rest of the summer.
>
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Jeff.
>
>

Gosh that is terrible.  You might have to sell the car.  I could sure
use a '70 442 Convertible. :-)  Just kidding :-)  I had both my rear and
front seals redone on my 400.  I think, now don't quote me, these seals
are like plugs with some kind a fabric that is used a seal.  I think
these
plugs are basically resealed and tapped back in.  I hope this helps.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 22:00:08 -0300
Subject: Re: Misc: My Olds Week under my LONG-term project SX

Good for you!  I give you "restore guys" alot of credit!  My level of
patience...well, I actually haven't any.

What kind of Olds is it and what's the year?

Do you have a tentative date for the "main voyage"?


RC Hellebuyck

1971 442 convt.



On Tue, 24 Jun 1997, Robert Barry <RBarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU> wrote:
>I took a couple days off to get my SX ready for its engine. I had to bend up
>all new brakes lines, which went well, though I've still got to do the rear
>line. Installed the last front spring, so now for the first time in thirteen
>years the car is on *all*four*tires*! (is that some kind of record or
>something for getting around to your own project??) This is real exciting
>for me. I also got the steering shaft, box and linkage hooked up, so now it
>theoretically could be rolled somewhere (if the rear brakes weren't
frozen...). > >Inside, I committed the "Great Mold Massacre of '97" with a can
of Lysol, >and reassembled the dash (again, first time in 13 years that things
aren't >hanging down from it...), and hooked up the black seatbelts that I
must have >gotten from some parts car that I don't even _remember_. Also
pulled a door >cylinder to replace the long-gone door/ignition keys;
thankfully I still had >a trunk key hanging around. > >It's been sitting
outside for the last 13 years under various poor covers, >but because I
disassembled and stored things in the basement, it's an odd >combination of
really good/really bad pieces. For example, the >previously-solid trunk floor
has rotted in some places, because the rust >under the rear window has
increased to epic proportions, and the cowl now >has small rust holes where
there previously were none, but the front clip >that I pulled when the car was
only 14 years old is nearly mint. I >undercoated the floors before installing
a new (now badly faded) black >carpet, so those have been preserved. > >I need
to torque down the front suspension components, finish the brakes, >and then
drop in the '68 Toro motor before getting everything else back on. >The TH400
from it has been sitting for this amount of time, but was >completely rebuilt
only 9 months before it was pulled. Aside from the front >and rear seals, are
there any internal seals that might be damaged from >sitting for so long? I
may just have it gone through for peace of mind... > >Sorry to ramble, but I'm
really thrilled to *finally* be getting this thing >back together. I had to
put it off while I was in school, so for 12 years >it's been merely a shell
with a pair of frame-horns sticking out of it, but >now it almost looks like a
car! It'll be nice to bring my Olds-powered >stable up to three (and get this
thing back to my house where I can work on >it, rather than loading up all my
tools and travelling 2 hours to get at it :(
>_______________________________________________________ >Dr. Robert Barry
MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu >Theology Dept, Providence College,
Providence, RI 02918 > >

------------------------------

From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 07:41:42 -0300
Subject: Re: 86 442, Need engine ideas...

Matt Cremean wrote:

> Since I hear that 307's suck (or CAN'T for that matter, no offence), I
> say if you got the money, go for the three-five-oh. If you really want
> to be a power monger, drop in the Edelbrock Perf. RPM kit. It'll give it
> that hearty feel many of us long to have.

Matt you are probably right about the 350, however, the 307 isn't really
all that bad.  Since I have purchased my 82 Delta Royale (with a 307), I
have replaced the exhaust which made a hill of difference in the
performance.
I have even went on to add some octane booster and flipped the air
cleaner
lid.  Both of which added some oomph to the drive.  All I need to have
done
is have the tranny remodulated to shift at higher rpms and possible have
the
kick down switch replaced.  I think the apparent sluggishness that these
engines seem to have seem to stem from the tranny.  I know that if I
drive
in D and let the car shift on its own (factory default settings), I
never
hit the power bandwidth.  If I shift manually, say at 35 mph in first
(45
mph is maximum as specified in the manual), and at 50-60 mph in second
(70
mph is maximum as specified in the manual), and at 70+ mph shift to over
drive, then the car seems to go.  It won't perform as a 442, however, I
trimmed off between 3-4 seconds going this route.  Anyway I get off my
soap box.....

Later....
Chris Sparks
68 442
82 DRB

P.S.  I have been going to junk yards looking for a dual-cutout 1968
bumper.
I am amazed that this part is so harrrrrrd to find.  I have been finding
all
kinds of other things, though.  In particular I have found stainless
dash
knobs from a 68 Delmont and a 68 Cutlass.  I think these look a whole
lot better
than those plastic black knobs.

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª732
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