To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #705


oldsmobile-digest           Monday, 2 June 1997        Volume 01 : Number 705

72 Delta 88 Royale Parts
Re: Some Questions
I can't get enough!!! (and then there were three....)
Re: Hurst VIN
Re: cowl info needed
Re: cowl info needed
Re: 1969 Cutlass S car
PS and AC brackets for BB
Re: 66 Cutlass-Power Steering Help
Re: ALERT!!!: Let's Make Toast... ;-)
Re: PS and AC brackets for BB
307?
Re: OCA Web Page New Address
engine paint
Re: 307?
Re: engine paint
Re: 1969 Cutlass S car
Re: I can't get enough!!! (and then there were three....)
Olds 350 FUBAR?
Backwards muffler?
Re: Olds 350 FUBAR?
FW: convertible_motor
Re: Backwards muffler?
Re: 307?
Re: cowl info needed
75 olds for sale
Re: Olds 350 FUBAR?
used engine
Re: Tech Tip
Re: The Mech-guy's carb (was Dan Lacey's carb)
Re: Look at this + Carb Question
Re: The Oldsmobile Product Dissatisfaction List
Rocket Science Hello
Re: shocks
(Fwd) Rocket Science Hello
used engine
Backwards muffler?
Re: PS and AC brackets for BB
Re: Some Questions
Re: Hurst VIN
Re[2]: Some Questions
Re: PS and AC brackets for BB
Re: ** parts for sale**
Re: I can't get enough!!! (and then there were three....)
Re: ** parts for sale**
Email Abuse
Re: The Mech-guy's carb (was Dan Lacey's carb)
Re: Some Questions

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 01:13:25 -0300
Subject: 72 Delta 88 Royale Parts

Hey all you big car fans,

        I have a 72 Delta 88 Royale 2 door coupe that we are parting out.
Engine and Transmission spoken for. Let me know if your interested in any of
the following:

Nice Hood  $50.00
Front Bumper (w/ rub strip)  $90.00
Rear Heated Glass (system)  $110.00 complete
Front Grilles (very nice)  $80.00 pr.
Front Header Panel  $50.00
Arm Rest Pads (nice, long ones)  $20.00 pr
Door Panels (good cond)  $40.00 pr.
Factory AM/FM Stereo  $40.00
Dash Gauge Panel (nice)  $40.00
Doors (LH/RH)  $40.00 ea
Side Glass (rear)  $25.00 ea
A/C Brackets (complete set)  $15.00

Let use know if there's anything else that anyones needs. Very reasonable
prices.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass Supreme SX W-32
72 442 (350)
86 Ninety Eight
94 Cutlass Supreme
96 C-1500

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 01:22:36 -0300
Subject: Re: Some Questions

- ----------
> From: Jason Adcock <adcockjk@erols.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Some Questions
>
> >

 A couple years back I
> > read an article about Howell performance (?) that made
> > TBI conversion kits for carburated cars anybody know
> > if this company is still around? Address?
Howell was a engineer for GM that made stand alone harnesses for GM F.I.
after he retired.He may have made other related stuff too. I dont know if
he is still in buisness but he should be good if you can find him.
Walter

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 01:34:22 -0300
Subject: I can't get enough!!! (and then there were three....)

Well, I had some local make my day today.  There's been an '82 Cutlass
Brougham sitting in the same spot for roughly two years that ~I~ know of
(NO!  It's ~not~ one of mine...  :)  so I went to investigate finally.  One
flat tire, two corners of body damage was all I could really tell from
driving by.  Most of it looked ~fairly~ good, so I figured I'd offer $150 -
$200 for it, and see what they have to say.  The guy answers the door, I
ask him about the car, and before I have a chance to say anything else, he
pipes in "She wants fifty bucks for it."  Sold!!!  260, blown head gasket?
Interior immaculate, I mean ~almost~ perfect!!!  Factory AM/FM/Cassette
still there.  Don't work.  60/40 Split bench, reclining pass side :)  Dk.
Blue interior, and the cloth is ~soooo~ smooth still :)  The hard plastic
parts are faded (lower door panels and inner "A" pillar mouldings, I didn't
notice any others.  Big sweep speedo, but it works.  Doors are the best
I've seen on one of those.  Close just right, no cracks.  A couple
scratched in dents on the doors, but nothing some DP-90 wouldn't fill.
Outside is silver with dark blue vinyl top.  Top trim is faded to chrome.
I filled up a rear tire (which both appear to be brand new!) and put a
battery in the car.  Cranked it for about five seconds, pumped it twice,
cranked again and it fired right up.  Drove it home, about a mile?  Ran
really rough, and smokes quite a bit, but it ~does~ run and drive.
Kinda shameful, though.  As much as I want to strip it for parts, I keep
going back to the knowledge of a 403 sitting two cars away that would drop
right in.  Straighten out two corners, and have one H*ll of a car.  It
kinda fits in with my original dream of having Rockit's 1 through 8 (for
'81 through '88)  I ~now~ have an '81, '82, and '83, so it's a good start,
eh?  If I could ever get the titlework straightened out on the '83, I'd
have it made.  I could do matching/sequential personalized tags ~legally~.
My insurance company would absolutely ~love~ me then.  Even at the best
insurance rates, I'd still be paying more for insurance than for all other
living expenses combined, if I were to insure ~all~ of em:)  Makes that
fleet policy ~really~ worth looking into, here soon.
Still no word on the other '82 I'd been chasing.  As far as I know, he's
saving it for me.  (The buckets/console one:)  Don't have the other '81
yet, either.  It will be ~really~ cool once I have them all in the same
spot.  ~Great~ photo opportunity!!!


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 02:11:50 -0300
Subject: Re: Hurst VIN

In a message dated 97-06-01 16:40:36 EDT, you write:

<< My 72 Olds has VIN starting with ST 72 34247LAN with a W45 code on the
 > > cowl.  It is supposed to be a Hurst w/sunroof and has all the striping,
 > > etc.  My Encyclopedia of American Cars since 1930 says all Cutlass
 > > Supreme coupes had a coding of 3J57.  What do other people with a 72
 > > "Hurst" have on their VIN?  Did Olds ship left over white 71 Cutlass
 > > bodies etc. to be reworked by Hurst or has someone gone to a lot of
 > > trouble to convert mine  complete with rust, old striping, etc.?
 > > Information and/or explanations greatly appreciated.  Thank you for your
 > > time.
 > >
 >

That code you give with the ST is your cowl tag, the Vin tag is located on
the drivers side of the dash and the bottom of the windshield, thats where
you get the vin number.  the ST  72 is for the year of 72 and the 34247Lan is
not your vin but the series for 3 is for Olds 42 is for Cutlass Supreme and
47 is probably a 57 for hardtop coupe Supreme body and Lan of course for
Lansing MI where all H/O's were built and the W-45 is for the H/O option
which replaces the paint code.  So your code should read 34257LAN

The vin should read 3J57U2M------  or 3J57X2M for hardtop and hardtop with
W-30 option


W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
72 442 W-30

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 02:19:01 -0300
Subject: Re: cowl info needed

In a message dated 97-06-01 19:40:53 EDT, you write:

<< ST 70-34267  BF  00073(1)
 TR 977              58 A
 09D   031801  280278
 Thanks
  >>
ST70 for 1970
3 for OLDs
42 for Cutlass Supreme
67 for Convertible
BF  for Fremont Calif.  where built
000731 just series of cowl tag
TR 977  is trim color Ivory
58 is color Burnished Gold
A is color of convert top which is White
09 is month built  September
D is for week  fourth
and no idea what the other numbers are

send me your address again to send you door panels

W MACHINES
72 442 W-30

------------------------------

From: Oldsrly350@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 04:55:05 -0300
Subject: Re: cowl info needed

<< ST 70-34267  BF  00073(1)
 TR 977              58 A
 09D   031801  280278
 Thanks
  >>
>ST70 for 1970
>3 for OLDs
>42 for Cutlass Supreme
>67 for Convertible
>BF  for Fremont Calif.  where built
>000731 just series of cowl tag
>TR 977  is trim color Ivory
>58 is color Burnished Gold
>A is color of convert top which is White
>09 is month built  September
>D is for week  fourth
>and no idea what the other numbers are

In addition to 977 meaning you have Pearl (Ivory) interior, it also means you
have bucket seats.

------------------------------

From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 07:49:04 -0300
Subject: Re: 1969 Cutlass S car

Hi all,

In my neighborhood, roughly 2-3 miles away, a lady has a 69 Cutlass
S car.  She called me yesterday saying that she is ready to sell it.
She quotes me $3,000 and later that day I go by a give it look-see.
Well, even though the car is beautiful from a distance, up close their
are a few problems/oddities.  First the car is painted a champagne
beige metallic, not the original green that came on the car.  Not
really a good paint job.  I can see runs in the paint.  I noticed that
it has a dual notched out bumper with only one exhaust pipe!  The
engine I expected to see should have been gold, it was blue.  She said
she had the engine rebuilt? or maybe replaced.  I asked her how many
miles she went in the car and she told me 227,000 miles!  Yeow-sa!
Scared me a bit.  She also had a two-barrel carburetor in it and it
wasn't the original (according to her).  A/C works except in hi
position.  The car has crank windows and no power locks.  Probably
has power steering and brakes.  It is a post coupe.  Doesn't this
car sound a little odd?  Anyway I am going to shine buying it.  It is
just a little unoriginal.

Later...

Chris Sparks
68 442
82 DRB

------------------------------

From: dedarnell@electro-matic.com
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 09:50:27 -0300
Subject: PS and AC brackets for BB

I see someone else is having the same problem with the AC bracket that I
am.  I have an edelbrock torker, and the AC bracket doesn't  line up to the
hole on the manifold.  Has anyone done this?  Do I have to make some sort
of adapter bracket, or can I shape mine to fit?  I haven't seen any kits to
fix this.  Also, the PS bracket from the 350 doesn't look like it fits
perfectly on my 455.  I think someone told me they were different on the
big block.  Does anyone have one they want to get rid of?  I think it is
supposed to attach to the exhaust manifold too.  Guess what - I bought
headers.  Should I still hook up that part of the bracket?  I don't think
it will be strong enough without it?

thanks,
Dave

------------------------------

From: Robert Knowles <bigrob@flash.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 09:42:26 -0300
Subject: Re: 66 Cutlass-Power Steering Help

At 05:09 PM 6/1/97 -0300, you wrote:
>On Sun, 1 Jun 1997, Robert Knowles wrote:
>>  I need to know what I did wrong with my power steering pump. I removed it
>> to paint it..and now when I reinstalled it , it doesn't seem to work at
all. >> I need some advice on what to do to get it working. PLease help >
>Geez, I recently did this myself. The pump looks great now. I can only
>think of a few things and they sound so simple I'm almost afraid to >mention
it. But here goes: > >1. Enough fluid in the pump? > >2. Belt not too loose? >
>3. Hoses on correctly? > >4. Something blocking the fluid fittings on the
steering gear? > >On mine we bolted it back up after painting it and filled it
about 1/2 >full of fluid and it worked almost right away. I can't think of
anything >else that might be causing it. Good luck. > >Greg Beaulieu
ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada > > > >Aren't the
hoses idiot proof, they only go on one way right. Two different size fittings
... Mine woke squeek or nothing......Sh*t it's really frustrtating.
                                                                        Robert

------------------------------

From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 10:16:38 -0300
Subject: Re: ALERT!!!: Let's Make Toast... ;-)

> I would never ask any of you to mailbomb hanthorn@inwave.com .... that
> wouldn't be prudent. ;-)

Nope, I would never compose a message to the un-dearly departed-from-our-list
Marty, telling him what an immature, hate mongering, closet Yugo lover he is.
Nor would I ...<click>... send it, like that!

If he did get such a mailbomb, obviously it was because he faked my address
and mailed it to himself.  Obviously :)

I would imagine if we all mailed his postmaster and complained, that might
expedite matters vis-a-vis his expulsion.

Y'know, I'm reminded of what the Puritans did in _The Scarlet Letter_ --
Marty's login name must've suggested Hawthorne to me -- perhaps a red
Oldsmobile logo should be tattooed on his forehead.  The new one, that
many folks here find offensive.  That'll teach him to mess with
Rocketeers! :)



Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 10:14:00 -0300
Subject: Re: PS and AC brackets for BB

dedarnell@electro-matic.com wrote:
>
>  I have an edelbrock torker, and the AC bracket doesn't  line up to the
> hole on the manifold.  Has anyone done this?  Do I have to make some sort
> of adapter bracket, or can I shape mine to fit?

Yes, I've done that operation before.  What you have to end up doing is
to notch out the section of the bracket where the bolt goes through on
the top of the manifold.  You literally have to cut the bracket so the
bolt hole is a "U" shaped notch.  This will allow a bolt and flat washer
to allow you to clamp the top of the bracket down.  It won't be original
anymore of course, but then, an Edelbrock isn't anyway.

   Guess what - I bought
> headers.  Should I still hook up that part of the bracket?  I don't think
> it will be strong enough without it?


It will work without the bracket, but you should use it if you can for
extra rigidity. Always remember, GM looked at things like this: a part
left out needs no maintenance and can cause no warranty problems. So if
GM thought it was needed, it was in there.  If you don't use it, there
is a potential for pulley misalignment when you tighten the belt.  An
Olds V8 PS bracket from virtually any car should work.  They have 2 bolt
holes in them and you use whichever lines up with the header depending
if it's a 350 or 455.  Just remember to shim the bracket against the
header flange because the exhaust manifold flanges are somewhat thicker
than the header flange.
I hope this helps.  Good luck.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: Chuck Kapigian <chuck.kapigian@mhbc.org>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 10:32:16 -0300
Subject: 307?

I have two accounts of information that states that the 307 that exist
in my 83 Hurst/Olds is a 5.7 liter engine. One source is the Hurst/Olds
museum in Michigan. They sent me a letter which stated the motor in my
car was a 5.7 liter engine. The other source is am 83 olds chassis
manual that has a chart that defines the "9" VIN ª with the W40 package
has a 5.7 liter engine. Has anybody else heard anything about this.

- -Chuck@mhbc.org
- -83 Hurst/Olds

------------------------------

From: "Easton,Jeffrey" <Jeff.Easton@abbott.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 10:50:26 -0300
Subject: Re: OCA Web Page New Address

From: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov

>For anyone who cares, the OCA web site moved, but not far from before.  It
>can now be found at:
>http://www.erols.com/brad442/oca
>I put it in it's own directory for maintenance sake.  There is a "detour"
>at the old location, the one printed in "Journey with Olds"

I just typed in this address here at work and our Proxy server kicked it
back with a "Blocked Site" message.  First time I've seen that one.

What do you have on your page?  Pictures of cars not wearing any
sheetmetal?  :-)

- -Jeff
jeffrey.easton@add.ssw.abbott.com

1970 442  4-Speed
see the archives at http://www.calcon.net/~easton

------------------------------

From: Steven LaCrosse <lacrosse@frontiernet.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 10:43:59 -0300
Subject: engine paint

Can anyone tell me where I might be able to find high temp Olds gold
engine paint? I can get Caddy gold engine paint but I don't know if it
is the same as Olds gold. I need the paint for a 69 442 with a 455.
Thank you.

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 11:23:06 -0300
Subject: Re: 307?

Chuck Kapigian wrote:
>
> I have two accounts of information that states that the 307 that exist
> in my 83 Hurst/Olds is a 5.7 liter engine. One source is the Hurst/Olds
> museum in Michigan. They sent me a letter which stated the motor in my
> car was a 5.7 liter engine. The other source is am 83 olds chassis
> manual that has a chart that defines the "9" VIN ª with the W40 package
> has a 5.7 liter engine. Has anybody else heard anything about this.
>
> -Chuck@mhbc.org
> -83 Hurst/Olds

If it is a 350, it would have to be a CH*VY 350, for Olds only had the
307 V8 for the Hurst in 83.  I wouldn't bet on a 350 from Olds in 83
because I believe 1980 was the last year for the Olds 350.  Haven't
heard any other rumors about this.  In early 84 I did hear of rumored
plans for installing a then unheard of GM corporate (read Ch*vy) 502
power plant optional for the 85 442, but of course, thank god, that
never happened.  Unless of course it was an OLDS 502.....hmmmmm....

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: MROTHE <MROTHE@Prodigy.Net>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 11:32:16 -0300
Subject: Re: engine paint

Steven LaCrosse wrote:
>
> Can anyone tell me where I might be able to find high temp Olds gold
> engine paint? I can get Caddy gold engine paint but I don't know if it
> is the same as Olds gold. I need the paint for a 69 442 with a 455.
> Thank you.

Huh?  You are probably referring to bronze paint to make it look like a
400.  The 350's were more of a gold color.  Brother's Automotive has it,
but the 455 originally was blue, which can be bought at NAPA under the
Martin-Senour brand.  Unless it was an H/O, then it would be red.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 11:56:47 -0300
Subject: Re: 1969 Cutlass S car

At 06:49 AM 6/2/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>In my neighborhood, roughly 2-3 miles away,

Wow, big neighborhood! In Rhode Island, 2-3 miles away puts you in another
state! ;)

>a lady has a 69 Cutlass
>S car.  She called me yesterday saying that she is ready to sell it.
>She quotes me $3,000 and later that day I go by a give it look-see.
>Well, even though the car is beautiful from a distance, up close their
>are a few problems/oddities.  First the car is painted a champagne
>beige metallic, not the original green that came on the car.  Not
>really a good paint job.  I can see runs in the paint.  I noticed that
>it has a dual notched out bumper with only one exhaust pipe!

Huh, not a W-31 car by chance? What is the code on the side of the
transmission? Did it have a rear sway bar? How many bolts on the rear cover?

>The
>engine I expected to see should have been gold, it was blue.  She said
>she had the engine rebuilt? or maybe replaced.  I asked her how many

Is she the original owner? I can imagine that lady unwittingly buying a W-31
auto car, complaining to her mechanic about it "running rough", and him
"fixing" the problem by replacing the engine with a smogger 350! Oh, wait,
later on you said the car had power brakes... Never mind about the W-31
thing then...

What was the letter on the heads?

>miles she went in the car and she told me 227,000 miles!  Yeow-sa!
>Scared me a bit.  She also had a two-barrel carburetor in it and it
>wasn't the original (according to her).  A/C works except in hi
>position.

That's simply the in-line fuse or fusible link, most likely, or perhaps the
relay.

>The car has crank windows and no power locks.  Probably
>has power steering and brakes.  It is a post coupe.  Doesn't this
>car sound a little odd?  Anyway I am going to shine buying it.  It is
>just a little unoriginal.

You can probably do better. Put that $3,000 into your 442 instead, and
you'll be much happier!
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 07:04:19 -0300
Subject: Re: I can't get enough!!! (and then there were three....)

Charley Buehner wrote:
>
>         Well, I had some local make my day today.  There's been an '82
Cutlass > Brougham sitting in the same spot for roughly two years that ~I~
know of > (NO!  It's ~not~ one of mine...  :)  so I went to investigate
finally.

<snip>

 It will be ~really~ cool once I have them all in the same
> spot.  ~Great~ photo opportunity!!!
>
>
>              Charley Buehner       |
>              "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
>              "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
>              "FAST FWD" (Soon)     | '67 Toronado 425
>                      Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

Charley,

I think that you've lost your mind.  Are you sure that you are a college
graduate?  I'll bet the degree is in business majoring in acquisitions.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: mjones@dragon.gleep.com
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 04:14:20 -0300
Subject: Olds 350 FUBAR?

The last month I've had BIG problems with my 350 in my '78 Olds 88, it's
misfiring, and I am really confused to what is doing it.  I've checked
the plugs/plug wires/cap/rotor/coil/module and still misfiring.  It is
misfiring on ª6 last time I checked (but I replaced the spark plug on
that one, insulator was cracked).  Today I took a trip to San Jose to
help someone move and on the way back I was pinging like hell on the
freeway, couldn't go up a hill at over 45 mph and I had a 3:1 mix of
87:92 octane gas in the tank.  No problems going downhill though.  I got
home and checked the timing, I couldn't even see the mark!  I have not
advanced/retarded the timing since the beginning of this year.  this is
my daily driver and it's getting to be a real pain in the neck.  I need
some help, anyone have any other ideas?  Could it be valvetrain?
(compression check was fine, all cylinders within 10psi of each other)
(vacuum check revealed ignition miss or a sticking valve)

Mike Jones
'78 Olds Delta 88

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 12:30:08 -0300
Subject: Backwards muffler?

The 403 in my Electra has been sounding a bit louder as of late, but
Saturday morning it became clear that the exhaust needed to be replaced (the
muffler dragging on the ground and the sparks flying out the back kind of
clued me into this). I replaced the Sonic Turbo that was on there with a
standard Walker replacement muffler (now that the engine is
high-performance, I don't *need* to make it sound fast), but once I started
it up, I noticed that the idle sounded a bit "healthier".

I didn't think to check before I installed it, but there was a little
stamping on the muffler that looked like the following:

A <--> B

The way I installed it, the "B" is toward the front of the car, and the "A"
is toward the rear. Did I install this darn thing backwards, and is that the
reason that the exhaust at idle is so loud? I vaguely recall other mufflers
having "front" stamped on them, but this one didn't have anything of the sort.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 12:30:07 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds 350 FUBAR?

At 03:14 AM 6/2/97 -0400, you wrote:
>The last month I've had BIG problems with my 350 in my '78 Olds 88, it's
[snip]
>some help, anyone have any other ideas?  Could it be valvetrain?
>(compression check was fine, all cylinders within 10psi of each other)
>(vacuum check revealed ignition miss or a sticking valve)

Could it be that the timing chain jumped a tooth? Or perhaps the timing is
just way off? How did it run when you set the timing? I doubt it's a valve,
since your compression is so good. I had poor oil control (rings) in my 403
before I rebuilt it, and my ª7 would begin to misfire due to oil fouling,
but this clearly showed up in a compression test.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "Kerr, Brian (R)" <Brian.Kerr@toronto.basf-corp.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 03:23:47 -0300
Subject: FW: convertible_motor

From: O=Intermail; DDA.TYPE=RFC-822;
DDA.VALUE=endl.us.com(b)dal(u)allan(a)endl.us.com
To: Kerr, Brian; kerr
Subject: convertible_motor
Date: Saturday, May 31, 1997 5:04AM

DATE: May 31 09:00:10 1997 GMT
IPMessageID: 338fe88c.endl(a)endl.us.com

FROM: Dal Allan [O=Intermail; DDA.TYPE=RFC-822;
DDA.VALUE=dal(u)allan(a)mcimai
      l.com]

TO: Kerr, Brian [S=Kerr; G=Brian; OU1=toronto]

SUBJECT: convertible_motor
IMPORTANCE: normal
PRIORITY:
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

 --
Hi Brian,

If you are interested in selling a convertible top motor, I'm interested.

The top on my 67 is getting slower and slower, and it is not air in the
lines so I'd like to have a motor around because it is about ready to fail.

The 67 takes the same motor and cylinders as later years. I was told they
use different numbers because pre-68 was hydraulic fluid and 68+ is ATF.

I am not prepared to pay $189 for a new one when the used one for my 72 only

cost $30.

All the best,

Dal


Hi Dal

Ihave a couple of motors, but I hav to test them. If they are ok, I want $50
Canadian, you cover shipping.
You can mail me direct at kerrb@basf-corp.com

Brian Kerr

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 07:40:26 -0300
Subject: Re: Backwards muffler?

Robert Barry wrote:
>
> The 403 in my Electra has been sounding a bit louder as of late, but
> Saturday morning it became clear that the exhaust needed to be replaced (the
> muffler dragging on the ground and the sparks flying out the back kind of
> clued me into this). I replaced the Sonic Turbo that was on there with a
> standard Walker replacement muffler (now that the engine is
> high-performance, I don't *need* to make it sound fast), but once I started
> it up, I noticed that the idle sounded a bit "healthier".
>
> I didn't think to check before I installed it, but there was a little
> stamping on the muffler that looked like the following:
>
> A <--> B
>
> The way I installed it, the "B" is toward the front of the car, and the "A"
> is toward the rear. Did I install this darn thing backwards, and is that the
> reason that the exhaust at idle is so loud? I vaguely recall other mufflers
> having "front" stamped on them, but this one didn't have anything of the
sort. > _______________________________________________________ > Dr. Robert
Barry

Bob,

Usually the outlet is smaller than the inlet, but w/your exhaust pipe
expander/shrinker that probably didn't deter you.  I suspect that you
are correct in thinking that A is to the engine & B is to the tail pipe.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 12:51:43 -0300
Subject: Re: 307?

At 10:32 AM 6/2/97 -0300, Chuck Kapigian wrote:
>I have two accounts of information that states that the 307 that exist
>in my 83 Hurst/Olds is a 5.7 liter engine. One source is the Hurst/Olds
>museum in Michigan. They sent me a letter which stated the motor in my
>car was a 5.7 liter engine. The other source is am 83 olds chassis
>manual that has a chart that defines the "9" VIN ª with the W40 package
>has a 5.7 liter engine. Has anybody else heard anything about this.

Can't be unless your car is a one-off prototype from Hurst. The last year
for the 350 in a 442 or H/O was 1980. Every book I have, including the Hurst
Heritage book mentions nothing about the 350 in 1983 H/O's
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, OH  f-body list since: 5/95
93 Camaro Z/28........Patriot Red, A4, 3.23, PEG2,  TFX cat-back, 160 stat,
homeade cold air intake, !TB, fan switch, Mobil 1 fluids, light covers
http://www.kxan.com/~rwillis/labay.html ..13.402@101.2
80 Olds 442 W-30........http://www.442.com./labay.htm ...show car

------------------------------

From: Yorcoy@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 12:57:12 -0300
Subject: Re: cowl info needed

Thanks Paul

------------------------------

From: DJV442@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 13:03:18 -0300
Subject: 75 olds for sale

75 cutlass s, spec.124 n.e.edition,350/4,console auto,swivel buckets,rally
wheels,44k orig.miles,p/s,p/b,interior almost perfect,exterior solid but
needs some resto.car is dk.green outside w/ wht vinyl roof. interior is
wht/grn.runs/drives great.
asking $1500.00. car is located in mass.e-mail for more
info...thanks...djv442@aol.com

------------------------------

From: CRuper1@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 14:13:35 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds 350 FUBAR?

In a message dated 97-06-02 11:19:11 EDT, you write:

<< The last month I've had BIG problems with my 350 in my '78 Olds 88, it's
 misfiring, and I am really confused to what is doing it.  I've checked
 the plugs/plug wires/cap/rotor/coil/module and still misfiring.  It is
 misfiring on ª6 last time I checked (but I replaced the spark plug on
 that one, insulator was cracked).  Today I took a trip to San Jose to
 help someone move and on the way back I was pinging like hell on the
 freeway, couldn't go up a hill at over 45 mph and I had a 3:1 mix of
 87:92 octane gas in the tank.  No problems going downhill though.  I got
 home and checked the timing, I couldn't even see the mark!  I have not
 advanced/retarded the timing since the beginning of this year.  this is
 my daily driver and it's getting to be a real pain in the neck.  I need
 some help, anyone have any other ideas?  Could it be valvetrain?
 (compression check was fine, all cylinders within 10psi of each other)
 (vacuum check revealed ignition miss or a sticking valve)

 Mike Jones
 '78 Olds Delta 88 >>

How many miles?  Could possibly be that you've got alot of miles on it, and
it "jumped" the timing chain position.  I suppose that could cause your
problems, but it'd run like shit cause the cam is out of place.  How about
the distributor working itself loose?

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

From: JNelson751@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 14:35:56 -0300
Subject: used engine

I hope someone on the list can offer me some information.
I just purchased  a olds motor, and these numbers are on the oil fill tube.
                             8073337
can anybody tell what these mean?
thank you
jeff

------------------------------

From: enowacki@titan.com (Erik Nowacki)
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 15:15:15 -0300
Subject: Re: Tech Tip


>> Replacing everything from the spindle out makes it too costly to replace
>> (for me).  If I could reuse some of the parts from my drums, then the
>> cost would be reasonable.  Oh well, I guess I'll have to stay with drums
>> then.  Even if I went to the junk yards looking for spindles, I would
>> have
>> no way to take them off the car.

>
>Why would not have anyway to take them of the car? Take your pliers,
>your ratchet and sockets, and a hammer and pickle fork. In a junkyard,
>you have the luxury of not caring how you leave the car. The sway-bar
>end links and the shocks are strong enough to hold the arms together for
>you, but will still allow you to pull the spindles out :) Besides, if
>you are pressed for money (and I wished I personally knew someone who
>wasn't :) ) then buy parts as you can afford them. Its no big deal to go
>back and add them later.
>
Just a quick $.02.

        Remember to bring a HEAVY hammer, preferably a sledgehammer.  A
friend of mine has a 67 C*m*ro which we recently put new balljoints in.  We
tried for a few hours to separate the 30yr old balljoint with a regular
hammer, no luck.  Another friend then suggested that we use a sledgehammer.
It took 5 strikes and the joint separated.  So always remember, if it can't
be done with force, use more force.


Erik Nowacki
72 Vista Cruiser

------------------------------

From: Dan Lacey <lacey@dsea.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 15:56:18 -0300
Subject: Re: The Mech-guy's carb (was Dan Lacey's carb)

>Now are you a full warrior or just another merc?
>
>Anyway, if I am right in assuming that you are running your 425 with
>Edelbrock Performer intake _and_ Performer camshaft, then yes. A basic 750cfm
>might be sufficient, but not more. In suggesting a 750 cfm to Mr. Lacey, I
>was assuming a stock engine. I personally could not justify going over 750cfm
>in my own engine since I do not have dual exhaust (this too shall come to
>pass). My intuition is that better intake helps little if the exhaust cannot
>go anywhere.
>
[SNIP]

>KarlAune
>1965 Dynamic 88
>Chicago, IL
>
>http://members.aol.com/KarlAunan/index.html

I am working on this car off and on... I am not looking for a drag racer. I
want it to be better than new. No radical cams or roller rockers...

If I were to just put in on jack-stands until it were done, I would have a
new intake manifold, carb, dual exhausts, HEI, front disc brakes,
polyurethane bushings up front, KYB Gas shocks, BIG tires...

If something breaks in the engine (needs head work, bearings, etc) I would
go with a more aggressive cam, valve springs, etc. but just better than
stock; again, not for the strip.

I want a car I can take my family, parents, friends, in for a long
comfortable trip. If I feel like "blowing out the carbon" by myself, that
should be alright too...

Now about the 750 cfm...

I have been told by a couple people that a 650cfm would be less than
optimal (performance wise), but would not pose any problems (smooth
operation and mpg).

To sum up what I think I have learned:

It looks like my 2 options are a 650 and a 750.
A 650 would get the best economy for a stock or mildly altered setup.
A 650 would get at least the same performance as my 4bbl Rochester.
A 750 would get the best performance for a stock or mildly altered setup.
800 and up is for those building the 500+hp versions...



*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: Dan Lacey <lacey@dsea.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 16:17:17 -0300
Subject: Re: Look at this + Carb Question

>http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/cut_bl.html
>
>This new addition has quite the under-the hood color scheme that people
>should view!  It's under 100K, but being a table it takes a bit for
>anything to show up (I think they should look at fixing it!)

[SNIP]

WOW! That's about all I can say.... WOW!



>Eric Aksomitis:
>Virtual Junkyard: Current count -> 5 vehicles
>Oldsmobile Index: Current Count -> 8 vehicles
>http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/       mailto:aksomi@cs.uregina.ca
>Last update: 970504
>..............................................................


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: Dan Lacey <lacey@dsea.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 16:02:02 -0300
Subject: Re: The Oldsmobile Product Dissatisfaction List

>In a message dated 97-06-01 12:07:34 EDT, you write:
>
>>
>>  I would be very happy to read pro & con on products, methods, suppliers,
>>  & combinations of the above.  I wouldn't want to read tiatribes on what
>>  a low down cur so-and-so may be.  If service were sub-par, then I would
>>  want ot know this.  I just don't have a real need to hear runor &
>>  inuendo.
>>
>
>I have alredy considered this. The proposed page would _not_ be a bulletin
>board. Furthermore, it is my intent to ensure that listings contain very
>specific details of definite shortcomings rather than a vague bashing which
>really serves no purpose.
>
>A possible compromise might be to list the exact number of people who express
>vague dissatisfaction.
>
>One drawback to this plan is that I will experience a radical transition in
>approx. two months and may be off line for an indeterminate period of time.
>Just an offhand thought on future difficulties.
>
>Karl Aune
>1965 Dynamic 88
>Chicago, IL
>
>I do not have a joke here, I just enjoy saying curmudgeon.

This is a great idea... Let me know when you are ready!!!


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 15:23:45 -0300
Subject: Rocket Science Hello

Yeah, I'm still here. Very busy lately. Working about 10-12 hrs a day at lame
pay rate as a basic auto mechanic to pay the bills. Thus, school work has
stalled indefinately. Can't afford the time to peruse the list as yet;
possibly after the big show. Anybody going to the Homecoming Swap Meet this
June 14th? I was considering a space just to be there, but don't wanna be tied
to the table allday, maybe I hire a "hot babe" to staff the display while I
peruse for treasures... Still need that 7028254 carb, have NOS 7029254 to
trade...

  Trying to find a way to get the cars pretty enough to present at the big
show this year. No luck yet. Late start. Wife has authorized the job though.
Shagged the good rear bumper from mom's garage, poked around a bit, found a
lot of stuff I forgot I had: 2 sets of MT RACovers, a set of 68 442 wheel well
chromes, etc.

   Finally got Netscape 3.x up-n-going so I can visit the web page again, man
has it grown! I responded to a dozen or so Parts wanted ads, try to raise $ to
fix the cars up.
  To further complicate matters, now that the Calais and 76 Delta are gone, I
have room to bring in the 68 Toro, get it going, but now we cannot get a day
of sun and 70 degrees. Nothing but rain and 60 degrees.

Sold off the '83 Calais and the excellent running '76 350 motor, that guy'll
be very happy. Found a pretty '83 H/O for sale just yesterday for $5K, if I
had the $ I'd get it. Might soon have the carcass of a 65 Starfire, courtesy
of the Bryceman...

The engine stash keeps growing, some 455's coming thru again, just got a
headless '68 motor last week, but had a bearing problem, and appears to have a
sleeve in one cylinder already. Salvaged the rods, new oil pump, and a new
General Kinetics 288 cam.

Found a spoiler for my car at long last, and another set of nice SSI's. Still
have the parts cars, so if y'all need stuff, I can send a list of the VIN's,
and you can decide if any match your car. I expect to post a web page ad soon,
need to inventory first, see what's there that's serviceable.

  Was in AZ for Easter, got 300ª of Olds parts, sent back as luggage. Even got
a '68 Cutlass rear bumper, sight unseen. Hope it arrives soon. :-)

  Often I wonder what's going on in list-land, but by the time I get in the
house, it's bedtime or the wife's pounding out another 300,000 point game of
Apeiron...

- --
Chris  B. Witt
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

From: Dan Lacey <lacey@dsea.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 16:08:59 -0300
Subject: Re: shocks

>Has anyone had any experience with the Monroe Sens-a-trac shocks?  Or
>perhaps the Edelbrock IAS shocks?  I'm needing all 4 for my 442 and want a
>good, highway cruising shock absorber.  If not these kind, please put forth
>you experiences with other kinds of shocks.
>
>I think I read from a post a few weeks ago that the air shocks are not very
>good for traction?  Am I correct on this?  Would I need an adjustable shock
>for the rear to replace the air-shocks with?
>
>Thanks..
>
>Paul Rousseau
>*1967 442

KYB Gas-Adjusts cost about the same ($109 for 4) and will last longer...

Stay away from air shocks. Use air bags inside the coil springs. More
adjustablility than an air shock, permanent, cheap (~$65), and allows you
to use the shock you want.


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 15:45:54 -0300
Subject: (Fwd) Rocket Science Hello

- --- Forwarded mail from oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

Subject: Rocket Science Hello
To: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu (me from myself), oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 15:23:45 -0300
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

Yeah, I'm still here. Very busy lately. Working about 10-12 hrs a day at lame
pay rate as a basic auto mechanic to pay the bills. Thus, school work has
stalled indefinately. Can't afford the time to peruse the list as yet;
possibly after the big show. Anybody going to the Homecoming Swap Meet this
June 14th? I was considering a space just to be there, but don't wanna be tied
to the table allday, maybe I hire a "hot babe" to staff the display while I
peruse for treasures... Still need that 7028254 carb, have NOS 7029254 to
trade...

Chris,
I'm going to the Homecoming on the 14th, have 3 swap spots,
sorry but I hired the "hot babe" already (ha-ha).

                                                       ___  ___
                                              /     /    / /  /
                                             / __  /  --/ /  /
       Mark Cornea (Dr Decal) `70 442 stick /_/ /_/ ___/ /__/ Red

          (drdecal@juno.com) or (mcornea@pt8244.pto.ford.com)

                          OCAª 4903  OPCª 14








- -

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 16:09:44 -0300
Subject: used engine

OL>I hope someone on the list can offer me some information.
OL>I just purchased  a olds motor, and these numbers are on the oil fill tube.
OL>                             8073337
OL>can anybody tell what these mean?
OL>thank you
OL>jeff

I dont know what that number means. Get the number above water pump /
timing chain but under intake manafold then I can tell you what it is.

Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
daren@revealed.net

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 16:23:08 -0300
Subject: Backwards muffler?

OL>I didn't think to check before I installed it, but there was a little
OL>stamping on the muffler that looked like the following:

OL>A <--> B

OL>The way I installed it, the "B" is toward the front of the car, and the "A"
OL>is toward the rear. Did I install this darn thing backwards, and is that
the OL>reason that the exhaust at idle is so loud? I vaguely recall other
mufflers OL>having "front" stamped on them, but this one didn't have anything
of the sor OL>_______________________________________________________ OL>Dr.
Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu OL>Theology Dept,
Providence College, Providence, RI 02918


Did you notice if there was louvers inside the muffler? If there is
installing it backwards the louvers wont make the exhaust gases go into
the other chambers of the muffler. Which in turn will give you the
heathier sound.

 One mans noise is another mans music!

Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
daren@revealed.net

------------------------------

From: "Suzanne Rousseau" <ewok@clarkston.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 17:28:33 -0300
Subject: Re: PS and AC brackets for BB

- ----------
> From: dedarnell@electro-matic.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: PS and AC brackets for BB
> Date: Monday, June 02, 1997 5:50 AM
>
>
> I see someone else is having the same problem with the AC bracket that I
> am.  I have an edelbrock torker, and the AC bracket doesn't  line up to
the
> hole on the manifold.  Has anyone done this?  Do I have to make some sort
> of adapter bracket, or can I shape mine to fit?  I haven't seen any kits
to
> fix this.  Also, the PS bracket from the 350 doesn't look like it fits
> perfectly on my 455.  I think someone told me they were different on the
> big block.  Does anyone have one they want to get rid of?  I think it is
> supposed to attach to the exhaust manifold too.  Guess what - I bought
> headers.  Should I still hook up that part of the bracket?  I don't think
> it will be strong enough without it?
>
> thanks,
> Dave
>
>
If you hook it up you will need a 1" long header bolt.  With the 3/4" one
you will be trying to spin the threads in all day  (speaking from
experience).  Only about 1 or 2 threads are sunk into the head.  But the
bracket will fit with headers, there are no differences at the bolt holes.

Paul Rousseau
*1967 442

------------------------------

From: Daren@qconline.com
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 16:26:36 -0300
Subject: Re: Some Questions

OL>At 10:04 PM 6/1/97 -0400, you wrote:
OL>>> I think the main
OL>>> problem with hooking up a factory type TBI to an Olds
OL>>> motor would be getting a computer controlled
OL>>> distributor for the Olds motor.

OL>Well, the later 307's were all computer controlled, so that's your answer
OL>there. In addition, the '77 403 in the Toronado had a rudimentary computer
OL>controlled ignition system, so its distributor could be used as well.
OL>_______________________________________________________
OL>Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
OL>Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

Are they the HEI type distributors or the TBI type. The
distributor/ignition on my truck ('89 GMC C1500) is completely different
than any carburated HEI distributor I've seen on a computerized 307. For
starters the coil isn't in the cap and (its been a while since I looked
at it) 2 wires go into the distributor from a near by harness and 2 go
between the distributor and coil with 2 more coming out of the coil 1 is
a tach. lead and I cant remember were the other goes. It might be
possible to not bother with the distributor if the computer cant tell if
it's hooked up. If it gets any type of feed back from the distributer
then it would probably set off an error code. I was under the impression
that GM completely did away with carbs after '88 if so than any vehicles
made with 307s in '89-'90 would have F.I. and all the parts necessary to
put TBI on an older Olds.

Daren

O.C.A. ª23571
daren@qconline.com

------------------------------

From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 17:37:28 -0300
Subject: Re: Hurst VIN

WMACHINES@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 97-06-01 16:40:36 EDT, you write:
>
> << My 72 Olds has VIN starting with ST 72 34247LAN with a W45 code on the
>  > > cowl.  It is supposed to be a Hurst w/sunroof and has all the striping,
>  > > etc.  My Encyclopedia of American Cars since 1930 says all Cutlass
>  > > Supreme coupes had a coding of 3J57.  What do other people with a 72
>  > > "Hurst" have on their VIN?  Did Olds ship left over white 71 Cutlass
>  > > bodies etc. to be reworked by Hurst or has someone gone to a lot of
>  > > trouble to convert mine  complete with rust, old striping, etc.?
>  > > Information and/or explanations greatly appreciated.  Thank you for
your >  > > time. >  > > >  > > > That code you give with the ST is your cowl
tag, the Vin tag is located on > the drivers side of the dash and the bottom
of the windshield, thats where > you get the vin number.  the ST  72 is for
the year of 72 and the 34247Lan is > not your vin but the series for 3 is for
Olds 42 is for Cutlass Supreme and > 47 is probably a 57 for hardtop coupe
Supreme body and Lan of course for > Lansing MI where all H/O's were built and
the W-45 is for the H/O option > which replaces the paint code.  So your code
should read 34257LAN > > The vin should read 3J57U2M------  or 3J57X2M for
hardtop and hardtop with > W-30 option > > W MACHINES (Mark Prince) > 72 442
W-30 Appreciate the response. If I can get an organ donor (re:  parts car(s)
reasonably priced) or replacement sheet metal reasonably priced, I need to
start restoring some of my beloved "junk".  When I moved to my current address
in Ky my next door neighbor informed me my 72 Hurst with  a rusty rear was
crapping up the neighborhood by sitting out back.  I told it may not look like
much to someone who buys new junk every two years, but it would be worth morth
than her town car in about 5 years when her's depreciated and mine didn't.
Some people don't appreciate people with a reverence towards maintaining
automotive history.  Even unrestored it still looked beautiful to me.  Of
course I see what it can be, she sees what it is.  Her loss.  You are of
course right about the cowl tag.  I was trying to use it to get the VIN etc.
as the dash was difficult to get to the way they were parked and all the junk
in my garages.  I found the title and verified it was a Hurst with sunroof.
As soon as I get my wife's and mother-in-law's approval (hah!) I going to
clean out the garages of junk furniture, old clothes and all the other things
that accumulate in 30 or 40 years and get to work on my fine projects.  One at
a time I have been told.  Speaking of extra parts, have quite a few parts over
at my parents where I parted out two Supremes about ten years ago.  It has
been so long I don't remember what I even have.  Thank you for the info. Don
Sowers dstaxpro@lex.infi.net

------------------------------

From: padavano.joe@Orbital.COM
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 12:02:04 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Some Questions


 A couple years back I
> > read an article about Howell performance (?) that made
> > TBI conversion kits for carburated cars anybody know
> > if this company is still around? Address?

     I picked up a brochure from these guys last year at the Pomona swap
     meet, so as of a year ago, they were still in business.  They
     advertised an EFI system for the 455 Olds for use in the GMC motor
     homes (and, presumably, it would fit any other 455 Olds as well).  The
     kit listed for something like $2,000.  I'll see if I can find the
     product info again.

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

From: padavano.joe@Orbital.COM
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 18:22:01 -0300
Subject: Re: PS and AC brackets for BB


...I have an edelbrock torker, and the AC bracket doesn't  line up to the
hole on the manifold.  Has anyone done this?  Do I have to make some sort
of adapter bracket, or can I shape mine to fit?  I haven't seen any kits to
fix this...

     It's been a while since I had a Torker on one of my cars (I prefer a
     two-plane manifold for the street), but I seem to recall that I also
     had a heck of a time getting the brackets to bolt up.  It seems that
     there is a machining tolerance problem, with the holes ending up in
     the wrong place.  Don't know what to tell you, other than elongating
     the hole in the bracket.

...Also, the PS bracket from the 350 doesn't look like it fits perfectly on
my 455.  I think someone told me they were different on the big block.
Does anyone have one they want to get rid of?  I think it is supposed to
attach to the exhaust manifold too.  Guess what - I bought headers.  Should
I still hook up that part of the bracket?  I don't think it will be strong
enough without it?

     The PS brackets are the same on the big and small block Olds motors
     (same part number is called out in the dealer parts book).  The
     difference is in the small "link" bracket which bolts to the PS
     bracket and then to the front bolt of the exhaust manifold.  This
     bracket has two holes, one for the small block and one for the big
     block.  The use of headers won't matter, as I've installed this
     bracket on several big and small block Olds motors with headers before
     (including both my H/O and my 70 W-30 currently).

     The other thing which you should look out for is the small spacer
     which goes between the bracket and the block.  This spacer is about
     3/4" thick and goes between the PS bracket and the drivers side of the
     engine block, under the bottom-most bolt.  Note that there is also a
     tubular spacer between the PS bracket and the stud which passes
     through the front cover.  If either or both of these spacers is
     missing, the bracket will not fit properly.

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30



------------------------------

From: Brad Bowles <wolds@napanet.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 19:53:08 -0300
Subject: Re: ** parts for sale**

ab348@chebucto.ns.ca wrote:
>
> I just got a 65 mustang incase you people want to get
> a hold of some real power.  I'm selling it for $4000. firm
> I'm also scrapping all my olds parts, so if you want any
> speak now!
>
> Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada
  Are you selling your Olds or Ford?
  I want the ford, or I just want the posi out of the olds.
  Let me know!!!
Brad
70 442

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 20:12:36 -0300
Subject: Re: I can't get enough!!! (and then there were three....)

>
>I think that you've lost your mind.

Yeah, I've always suspected that ;)

 Are you sure that you are a college
>graduate?  I'll bet the degree is in business majoring in acquisitions.

Well, it's a Bachelor's in Automotive Technology, and a Business Minor, so
I must be taking on some extra field practice, eh?  I fugured it out,
though.  By the time I figure in the price of the car and the fuel involved
in towing it to Sidney, I'm still into the car for less than a new pair of
tires -- which it already has:)  Soooo, I'm telling everyone that I bought
a tire and they threw in the car!  I can't pass up a deal like that!

As for the Rockits 1 through 8, I'm sure that will wait until I'm old and
senile (i.e. ~completely~ lost my mind) but I've always thought it would be
cool.  I'd probably consider changing the spelling, though, since there's
only one that can really ~rock~ it....  Although if I can afford to license
and insure all of 'em, I'd probably be able to spring for a bunch of stereo
systems, too ;)

Who knows...  Anyway, I'm gonna try to get some pictures of this new
critter today.  The paint on the front half of the car is great, but the
back half is pretty faded.  Seems to me it has something to do with the
shade situation in the place it was parked.  Paint appears to be all original.




             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 20:14:30 -0300
Subject: Re: ** parts for sale**

On Mon, 2 Jun 1997, Brad Bowles wrote:
> ab348@chebucto.ns.ca wrote:
> > I just got a 65 mustang incase you people want to get
> > a hold of some real power.  I'm selling it for $4000. firm
> > I'm also scrapping all my olds parts, so if you want any
> > speak now!
> > Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada >   Are you selling your Olds or Ford? >   I want the ford, or I just
want the posi out of the olds. >   Let me know!!!

Man, some stories just won't die...

There's no Mustang, and the post was bogus. Ignore it.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Dan Lacey <lacey@dsea.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 21:23:57 -0300
Subject: Email Abuse

Hi All!

Due to our collective experience with the terminally annoying, I thought I
would post something useful (I hope).

Please take a look at:

http://spam.abuse.net/spam/

This will give a good overview of SPAM (The internet kind; This is not your
grandmother's SPAM! Sorry, Couldn't resist...).

It also provides some very useful techniques (and code) for those of us who
are Sys. Admins.


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 20:23:57 -0300
Subject: Re: The Mech-guy's carb (was Dan Lacey's carb)

In a message dated 97-06-02 15:53:01 EDT, you write:

>
>  To sum up what I think I have learned:
>
>  It looks like my 2 options are a 650 and a 750.
>  A 650 would get the best economy for a stock or mildly altered setup.
>  A 650 would get at least the same performance as my 4bbl Rochester.
>  A 750 would get the best performance for a stock or mildly altered setup.
>  800 and up is for those building the 500+hp versions...
>
>
Well, yeah, ....but...

I believe that a non-double-pumper 750cfm carb could also give decent
economy. The major concern is to get adequate airflow. Period. After that is
established (here I go again rushing headlong into a subject I know squat
about..) I believe that the volume of fuel pumped into the intake is merely a
question of which metering rods and jets you use in the carburetor, that and
setting of the idle adjustment screws/knobs.

Anyone care to rebuke me for my ignorant statments?

Karl Aune
1965 Dynamic 88
Chicago, IL

Everyone Gratefully Remembers.........duct tape!

------------------------------

From: Patrick Flowers <patri63@ibm.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 20:30:53 -0300
Subject: Re: Some Questions

padavano.joe@Orbital.COM wrote:
>
>
>  A couple years back I
> > > read an article about Howell performance (?) that made
> > > TBI conversion kits for carburated cars anybody know
> > > if this company is still around? Address?
>
>      I picked up a brochure from these guys last year at the Pomona swap
>      meet, so as of a year ago, they were still in business.  They
>      advertised an EFI system for the 455 Olds for use in the GMC motor
>      homes (and, presumably, it would fit any other 455 Olds as well).  The
>      kit listed for something like $2,000.  I'll see if I can find the
>      product info again.

Howell Engine Developments
6201 Industrial Way
Marine City, MI 48039
810-765-5100
810-765-1503 fax

Patrick
- --
Patrick Flowers    Mailto:patri63@ibm.net

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª705
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