
oldsmobile-digest       Wednesday, July 16 1997       Volume 01 : Number 758



Re: compression test
Re: Oldsmobile Club of Canada Summer Nationals
Re: Oldsmobile Club of Canada Summer Nationals
Lansing
Re: Olds Natl's - Best in Show
Re: Need Motor
Chop Shop Blues conclusion
Re: New on list
Re: A fair guestimation of worth: 1967 442
Re: New on list
Source for tailpipe hangers for trumpet exhaust?
Smog Adventure
Re: New on list
Re: MY FAN!!
Re: Olds Natl's - Best in Show
Re: The H.P. of a 350...
Re: New on list
Wheel-well Moulding: '77 Custom Cruiser
Re: A fair guestimation of worth: 1967 442
Re: Good Headers-please read!
'77-'90 full-size: Speedometer illumination
ACK!  Always write things down
RE:'77-90 full-size:Speedometer illumination
Re: Source for tailpipe hangers for trumpet exhaust?
72 Cutlass Race Car
Re: Chrome Work
Wanted 68 442 parts....
Re: Good Headers-please read!
Re: New on list
Re: Good Headers-please read!
Re: cam profiles
Olds Nats Trip Report
Tire & ratio
RE: '63 Olds for Sale
Re: New on list
Re: Source for tailpipe hangers for trumpet exhaust?
Re: Wanted 68 442 parts....
Re: Smog Adventure
You want HOW much to fix the A/C?
Valvetrain ticking (Re: Olds Nats Trip Report)
Re: Olds Natl's - Best in Show
Need AT Console Neutral Safety/Backup Light switch
Re: Valvetrain ticking (Re: Olds Nats Trip Report)
Re: You want HOW much to fix the A/C?
FS: 67 442 - WA state
Re: Engine ID number
Update: Parts Voice - Can this be true?
Since Monday morning
Sticky speedometer
'86 Tilt Steering
Starter Motor
Re: Authenticity..
UNBOUNCE: Since Monday Morning
FSM Copies needed
BUY THIS!
(no subject)
Re: '77-'90 full-size: Speedometer illumination

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 22:53:46 -0400
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: compression test

Curt Salada wrote:
> 

Hi Curt,

Here is the breakdown of what a compression ratio is:

If the piston were at BDC, the complete volume of the cylinder,
including the head, is called the TOTAL volume.  When the piston is at
TDC, the volume left above the piston is called the CLEARANCE volume.  A
compression ratio is the comparison between the total volume and the
clearance volume.  Here is an example to explain it better: (the numbers
may be off from the actual specs)

Total Volume (for 1 cyl.) 43.75 cubic inches
Clearance Volume (" " ")  5.14 cubic inches

Therefore, you have the ratio of 43.75 : 5.14, which is exactly the same
as 8.5 : 1, which is the comp. ratio of your Olds 350.  If you were to
put on smaller heads, the clearance volume would be lower, giving you a
higher compression ratio.

When you're using a compression tester, the number "8.5:1" doesn't mean
squat.  A tester will measure the amount of compression, and it will be
in kPa (kilopascals).  If you're getting around 130 in every cylinder,
you're fine.  But the numbers have to be consistent--if one cyl. is 115,
and another is 135, the lower-compression cylinder has a serious
problem.  If all eight cylinders are within +/- 5 kPa, all cylinders are
wearing equally.

Here's a little tip when checking compression:  if one (or more)
cylinders have abnormally low readings, pour in about a shotglass full
of fresh 10W-30, and then re-test the cylinder immediately.  If the
reading is substantially higher with the oil, you've got worn rings, and
it needs a rebuild job.  If the reading is about the same as it was
before the oil (low), you've got valve problems, or a torched head
gasket.

I hope I was some help.  If there are any more questions, ask away.

S. Dave Ward	(Peterborough, Ontario, CANADA)

"You could set my Olds on fire, or throw it in a lake, but it could
still out-run a Z-28!"

'78 Delta 88 (350 4bbl--110K mi)
'85 Delta 88 (307 4bbl--105K mi)
'91 Chev Sierra 4x4 (305 TBI--45K mi)


> Hello.  I'd like to test the compression in each of the cylinders in my
> Oldsmobile's engine, but I don't know how to interpret the results of
> the test.  What guage readings would indicate ideal / acceptable / poor
> compression?
> 
> The factory compression ratio for a 1971 Cutlass 350 was 8.5 to 1, I
> believe.  What is this a ratio of?  In other words, what does the 8.5
> represent and what does the 1 represent?  Does the compression ratio
> have anything to do with the reading on the compression guage?
> 
> Thanks from an engine novice.
> Curt Salada
> 1971 Cutlass for sale -- see it at
> http://scils.rutgers.edu/~djcohen/curt/olds

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 22:51:00 -0400
From: "Jon" <latvis@globalserve.net>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Club of Canada Summer Nationals

- ----------
> From: SRB442@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Club of Canada Summer Nationals
> Date: pirmdiena, 1997. gada 14. jūlijs 21:04
> 
> Hi,
>        I to was at the OCC summer nationals with my 73 442. It was a very
> relaxing weekend and the park is very nice and a great place to take
pictures
> of your car. I judged the performance classes so didn't get to see all
the
> cars.  I was at Norwalk last year an is also an excellent event. I wish
they
> could have these events on different weekends so I could attend both. 
Steve
> 1967 442
> 1970 442
> 1973 442
> 1985 Delta 88 Royale Brougham
> OCA #016050
> 
>  

The OCC itself should hold more events during the year, the Nationals and
the family picnic aren't enough.  I was speaking with a few fellow OCC
members about this and the subject of Cayuga came up.  It would be nice to
see some rockets in action at the raceway.  Hopefully the new governing
body of the club will be perceptive to these ideas.

________________________________________________________
Jon Gulbis
'85 Cutlass Supreme
'72 Norton chopper

Drop me a line at: latvis@globalserve.net
See my resume at: 
http://www.globalserve.net/~latvis/computing/resume.html

(Olds page soon to be constructed)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 23:02:10 -0400
From: "Jon" <latvis@globalserve.net>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Club of Canada Summer Nationals

Greetings Tim!

- ----------
> From: uknowme <uknowme@galleon.botanybay.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Club of Canada Summer Nationals
> Date: pirmdiena, 1997. gada 14. jūlijs 23:51
> 
> I was also at the show but only on Sunday I didn't show my car i
> would've had the best beater for sure, anyway maybe next year. The cars
> were great my favourite was the tubbed (can't remember) anyways it was
> blue tubbed and beautiful so were most of the others. 

That was a '69 Cutlass (Or 4-4-2?) hardtop.  It got my People's Choice
Award vote.  It was done up to the hilt, the only thing that it was missing
was a blower which I found strange for a car that was so done up.  The
trunk and interior were all done in stainless, with racing seats complete
with 5 piont harnesses, roll cage, nitrous, etc. etc. etc.  I got a couple
of pictures of it that are definately going on my Olds page when I get
around to finishing it.

> I found the swap
> meet to be small was there more parts on Saturday??? Can't wait till
> next year.

Next year show that beater of yours, it's fun even if you don't win
anything.

> 
> Tim
> 81 Cutlass Supreme (under construction)
> 80 Mustang (Winter beater)
> 80 Camaro (dam i miss it)
________________________________________________________
Jon Gulbis
'85 Cutlass Supreme
'72 Norton chopper

Drop me a line at: latvis@globalserve.net
See my resume at: 
http://www.globalserve.net/~latvis/computing/resume.html

(Olds page soon to be constructed)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 22:14:58 -0700
From: Greg Kalkhoff <gkalkhof@execpc.com>
Subject: Lansing

Greetings from the flip side! (poking my head in...taking a look around....COOL!)

As Lansing nears the excitment is building!

There seems to be a few lists going around regarding who is going to Lansing. I started a 
list in the Toro FAQ over a month ago. So, if you are interested in seeing who is going 
to Lansing from the Toro list, you are welcome to check it out.

http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/lansing.htm

See everyone in Lansing!

Sparky

- -- 
Greg Kalkhoff                                        See the Sparkmobile
Toronado FAQ Administrator                     http://www.442.com/kalkhoff.html
http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/torofaqs.htm
AKA "Sparky"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 23:36:12 -0400
From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Subject: Re: Olds Natl's - Best in Show

At 09:28 PM 7/15/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Did any of you guys see the white mid 80's Cutlass on the trailer for
>sale?  It was tubbed and roll caged minus motor and trans.  I didnt even
>get the number figuring the wife would shoot down my big plans of buying
>it.  But now I find out that I can prob. swing the deal.  Any chance one
>of you guys in attendance got the phone number.. :)  

That was a nice car. $4600 was not bad at all. The car was very
professionally built. Sorry but I didn't get the  number as I knew if I
took  it I would have ended up buying something I couldn't afford ;-)
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com) Akron, OH
93 Camaro Z/28.....14.185 @ 98.70
80 Olds 442 W-30...2nd Place '97 Olds Nats
75 Hurst/Olds W-25

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 20:47:09 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Need Motor

Tom : I have a pretty complete listing of car clubs as a link on my web
page - go there & check it out, sure you'll find something.


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '72 Vista Cruiser
, '69 Toronado 

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 23:35:43 -0400
From: "Jon" <latvis@globalserve.net>
Subject: Chop Shop Blues conclusion

A few weeks ago, I finally got my car out of the body shop (Read "Chop Shop
Blues").  The bumper and back up lights still sit a bit too low, but there
isn't much you could do about it.  It's only about a half an inch gap
anyhow.

Since I was painting the back of the car, I dicided to take the red pin
striping off the front of the car to achieve a more custom look.  When they
took the pin striping off, some of the paint pealed off!  With only a few
weeks to go before the OCC Summer Naitonals, I was desparate to get the car
finished in time so I took the car to a friend who does body work but does
not have a shop.  We patched up the holes in the paint as well as the rust
around the wheel wells (I also decided to take the trim off  from around
the wheel wells), and waited for a friend of his, who owns a shop, to have
some spare time so that we could use his paint booth.  Time passed and his
friend never found the time, so I started hunting around for a shop that
would paint the car for a reasonable price.  Two days before the show I
found a shop that wasn't too busy and the owner was willing to paint the
front end and both doors for $300.00 Canadian!  I got the car out on
Saturday, spent all day getting it ready for Sunday and showed up at the
show with a fresh coat of paint on the car.

Between the time when I got the car back from the first shop and when I
painted the front end, I also got the windows tinted, restored the Chrome
painted plastic on the interior with a paint marker (Thanks for the tip
that was floating around here a few weeks back), and got all the power door
lock / window switches working as well as the hood light and installing a
trunk light (Which never came with my car).  

With all that done, it feels and looks like a brand new Oldsmobile!  I
entered my car in the "Street Stock" class at the show and won second
place.  Not bad for a car that was ritten off only 2 months ago.
________________________________________________________
Jon Gulbis
'85 Cutlass Supreme
'72 Norton chopper

Drop me a line at: latvis@globalserve.net
See my resume at: 
http://www.globalserve.net/~latvis/computing/resume.html

(Olds page soon to be constructed)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 20:40:19 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: New on list

Welcome!  There are several other Texans lurking on board here also.  What
a beautiful (sounding) car.


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '72 Vista Cruiser
, '69 Toronado 

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 23:51:00 -0400
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: A fair guestimation of worth: 1967 442

At 09:46 PM 7/15/97 -0400, you wrote:
>The car in question:
>1967 442 Convertible 4 speed
>non matching motor     (67 425)
>non matching trans     (m-21 close ratio)
...
>looks like a million dollars from about 10 feet :P
>but get closer than 5feet and.. :(
>
>I was pondering selling it,  need to get 4500.00 out of it to pay off
>the note.
>I know I could sell it to someone who just thinks it looks cool, but
>would there

While I'm sure you could get that figure for it, I do know that it probably
wouldn't be near the top of my list if I were looking for an Olds to
restore. It does sound like a fun car, though, so somebody who is looking
for a fun Olds for driving/cruising, not restoring/investing in, would
probably like it a lot! If it were in more original or better shape, that
would be a $10k plus car; of course, the problem is that restoring it to a
stock condition would cost 10k+.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 23:01:01 +0000
From: JR <joertexas@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: New on list

James Thingwold wrote:
> 
> Welcome!  There are several other Texans lurking on board here also.  What
> a beautiful (sounding) car.

I don't 'lurk'. I just don't say much, like a Southern gentlemam should.

JR
72 Cutlass S

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 23:59:09 -0400
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Source for tailpipe hangers for trumpet exhaust?

I've bit the bullet and ordered a full new exhaust system for my 1970 SX
from Fusick, including the chrome-plated trumpet tips that were long gone by
the time I bought the car. Anyway, they noted in their catalog that while
they can supply the proper tailpipe hanger clamps, they don't have the
tailpipe hangers themselves, and Year One notes that the hangers they sell
also won't fit the Trumpet exhaust.

So... I'm not concerned about originality, but I would like this to be
presentable; is there a hanger, factory design or aftermarket, that will
work in this application? What are the people who run the trumpet exhaust
using to keep their pipes from dragging on the ground? 

Part numbers would be great, but any leads would be appreciated.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 21:09:05 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Smog Adventure

Took my '67 Delta 88 in for its smog check (California).  Bought the car 4
yrs. ago, have put 7k miles on it (up to 67,000) and haven't touched a
thing in all that time other then oil changes.

Bone stock - original cobwebs, etc.  It looks like its been frozen in time
under the hood except for the new air conditioning compressor.  Every
mechanic in the place came by to look it over ("Oldsmobile?" like they
didn't make em in '67 - sheeeesh) comment, etc.  All favorable.

They put it on the machine (after letting it sit & idle & load up) - run it
through the test.
Passes fine.  Take the print out up to the counter & the guys start looking
it over.  The amount of exhaust gasses (or whatever they call it) allowable
smog? increases per year with the State (how generous of them, hmm?)
anyway, the guys look at it and the one goes "hey, whats the allowable
level for the new cars?"  My THIRTY YEAR OLD beast passed within a hairs
breadth of the NEW car limits!  

HA!  Four hundred twenty five cubic inches of Detroit iron, after thirty
years, putting out the same exhaust emissions as a new DISPOSABLE energy
efficient import!!**@@##*!!  And putting out over 360 hp?  

Now what does that say?

I was quite proud of her.  We both smiled all the way home.


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '72 Vista Cruiser
, '69 Toronado 

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 21:14:51 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: New on list

>I don't 'lurk'. I just don't say much, like a Southern gentlemam should.
 
Is this directed at any of our more Prominent Southerners on board?!?
Does Florida count as Southern -if so, we should possibly direct this to
some of our more flamboyant members therein.



Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '72 Vista Cruiser
, '69 Toronado 

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 23:09:20 +0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: MY FAN!!

Tornado697@aol.com wrote:
> 
>   CAN SOMEONE HELP ME WITH MY FAN.? i have a 1983 olds toronado with a 307
> 4barrel and have had big problems with the fan hitting the radiator when i
> accelorate. I have replaced the motor mounts on the front of the motor, and
> it still rubbes the radiator shroud, am i the only one who has this problem?
> i have seen several bent and scratched fans in the Junk yard and wonder if
> this is common, if oyu know anything about this please contact me..
> 
> tornado697@aol.com
> george fiore

Try wobbling the fan w/the engine off.  If it mobes back & forth, you
probably have a bad water pump allowing this movement.  Of course, there
is the possibility of loose bolts onthe hub/fan also.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 00:16:22 -0400
From: Ken <olds442@en.com>
Subject: Re: Olds Natl's - Best in Show

Jason Labay wrote:
> 
> 
> That was a nice car. $4600 was not bad at all. The car was very
> professionally built. Sorry but I didn't get the  number as I knew if I
> took  it I would have ended up buying something I couldn't afford ;-)
> Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com) Akron, OH

 The question is(you being from Ohio).. Think you can get special Ohio
e-check exempt plates for a car like that?  A friend was telling me he
saw "collectors" plates on a 1985 Mustang???.. Would these be the ones I
would try and get?


Ken

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 00:09:40 -0400
From: "Jon" <latvis@globalserve.net>
Subject: Re: The H.P. of a 350...

Eh Dave,

Sorry about the late reply, between getting my Olds in shape for the show,
working, etc. I haven't had time to read all my Email (I currently have 488
unread messages!).

- ----------
> From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: The H.P. of a 350...
> Date: otrdiena, 1997. gada 8. jūlijs 17:05
> 
> Jon wrote:
> > 
> > Eh Dave,
> > 
> > My mechanic has manuals with all the specs.  I don't know if he has the
> > specs from '78 but I can check tomorrow. (Tuesday)
> > 
> > BTW:  Are you going to London?  I'm in Toronto and would like to get a
> > bunch of cars together to go out there.  Let me know.
> > 
> > ________________________________________________________
> > Jon Gulbis
> > '85 Cutlass Supreme
> > '72 Norton chopper
> > 
> > Drop me a line at: latvis@globalserve.net
> > See my resume at:
> > http://www.globalserve.net/~latvis/computing/resume.html
> > 
> > (Olds page soon to be constructed)
> > 
> > ----------
> > > From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
> > > To: Oldsmobile List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> > > Subject: The H.P. of a 350...
> > > Date: pirmdiena, 1997. gada 7. jūlijs 21:43
> 
> 
> Hey Jon,
> 
> I can't make it to London...I really wish I could, but the Olds isn't
> really street-legal yet.  I have to do a complete overhaul of the
> braking system, such as flex/steel lines, calipers, wheel cyl's, drums,
> rotors...and so on.  I'm saving as much as possible this summer, so I
> can pour it into the car, plus I'll be on a snowmobile trip in February.
> "You can't make the scene if you don't got the green..."
> 

Hey, I know how it is.  Too bad you couldn't make it, it was a great time,
I could only make it out for Sunday.

> S. Dave Ward	(Peterborough, Ontario, CANADA)
> 
> "You could set my Olds on fire, or beat it 'til its dead, but I still
> wouldn't trade it for an IROC-Z!"
> 
> '78 Delta 88
> '85 Delta 88

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 23:55:23 +0000
From: JR <joertexas@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: New on list

James Thingwold wrote:
> 
> >I don't 'lurk'. I just don't say much, like a Southern gentleman should.
> 
> Is this directed at any of our more Prominent Southerners on board?!?
> Does Florida count as Southern -if so, we should possibly direct this to
> some of our more flamboyant members therein.

Nah, just saying whatever came to mind.

JR

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 00:17:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Subject: Wheel-well Moulding: '77 Custom Cruiser

I am in search of a driver's side rear wheel well moulding for a
friend's '77 Custom Cruiser.  A couple months ago, a
Niss*n Minima ran into the left side, twisting the original one beyond
repair.  Far more common 1980 and newer models have a different side
contour to the body, so these will not work.  Also, the wagons appear to
have different wheel openings in comparison to '77-'79 Delta 88
sedans/coupes, on which the lower body ridge ceases just before the wheel
arch.  Thanks.

Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 01:39:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: BMAN6771@aol.com
Subject: Re: A fair guestimation of worth: 1967 442

send me a pic of the 67 442 conv

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Jul 1997 06:23:30
From: Chris Matthes <cdogg73@elknet.net>
Subject: Re: Good Headers-please read!

>I really don't want "pretty" either. What's the use of the ceramic
>coating? What does it do? I just really want functionality, but if
>they'll look good for awhile, that'd be nice too.

yeah, its functional.  it prevents rust...these headers will outlive your
Olds.  2nd they look pretty, forever.  thirdly, they are supposed to run
cooler, i dont know if that's true, because, all headers feel hot to me ya
know.  But if low cost is what your after, dont bother, if having a trick
looking and running engine is your goal, ceramics are the way to go.

Chris Matthes
73 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 01:04:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Subject: '77-'90 full-size: Speedometer illumination

David Brown wrote:

> I kind of know the '77 to '79 Deltas inside and out.

For years, during night hours, my friend's '77 Custom Cruiser's
speedometer had been shrouded in intermittent darkness.  The sole
functioning light served to illuminate one of the more important
devices, the gasoline gauge, as well as indicate when you were burying
the speedometer needle.  It appears that the 2 bulb sockets directly
behind the speedometer had melted somewhat, producing an intermittent
condition.  An ill-fated repair attempt by a mechanic about 10 years go,
utilising some black windshield putty, had done more harm than good.  Last
week, I (foolishly) offered to fix the problem.  I'm still recovering from
multiple lacerations on my right forearm. <g>  David, is there anyway to
change these sockets without exposing flesh to numerous sharp edges and
disassembling the _entire_ dashboard, just short of dropping the steering 
column?  I obtained sockets from a newer Delta 88 ('84?) which seem to be
of a more durable plastic.  They wouldn't twist securely into the '77
instrument panel, so I used some epoxy to make sure they won't shake loose.

Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: 15 Jul 1997 23:22:22 PST
From: mjones@dragon.gleep.com
Subject: ACK!  Always write things down

Ack!  I deleted an email I recieved from a gentleman on the list that
sent me a message (in email) about adding dual exhaust onto a '77-79 B
and C-body cars using all walker replacment parts.  I have the message
but I woul dlike the part numbers.  Gentleman said he was taking the
exhaust of a Buick Roadmaster and adapting it to his.  Maybe that info
will help me locate him.

Thank you
Mike Jones
'78 88

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 01:13:01 -0600
From: "Igor" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Subject: RE:'77-90 full-size:Speedometer illumination

I know the pain you are going throgh.  I have an 81 Delta and faced a
similar problem where I had to change a couple of those sockets.  What I
did was dissasemble the dash frame in the front (the frame you see once you
pull the face off) enough to be able to pry the thing out so that the part
where the sockets were located was in reach of my already bleeding hand.  I
purchased these sockets from a local part store and found that they did not
fit.  After I went through the same experience with a couple of other
brands, I got used ones from the junk yard.  It is interesting to see how
similar they look and yet don't fit vary well. There are two problems. 
There are two different sizes, vary small diference but crucial (also a not
vary well known fact) and the fact that with some sockets when you screw
them on the metal conectors are not at the exact place original conectors
were causing for poor or no contact.  Make sure you have the right sockets,
prefreble use used ones.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 03:07:38 -0400
From: "MROTHE" <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Source for tailpipe hangers for trumpet exhaust?

> So... I'm not concerned about originality, but I would like this to be
> presentable; is there a hanger, factory design or aftermarket, that will
> work in this application? What are the people who run the trumpet exhaust
> using to keep their pipes from dragging on the ground? 

Dr. Bob, 

I know what you are going through.  My 69 H/O still has the original
tailpipe hangers on it, albiet they are showing signs of dry rot.  I know
of no one repro-ing the correct t/p hangers for the 442, but, Year One
sells something close. I got my full exhaust system from Brother's, and it
came with everything EXCEPT t/p hangers.  You may have to drill an extra
hole in the frame with the Year One hangers, but they will work if'n you
had to.  I ended up doing that with my 71 442, and they work fine with 2.5"
exhaust.  Over 2 yrs runnin....

Personally, I don't want to start drilling my H/O's frame, so what I think
I will do is get the hangers "rebuilt".  In other words, get someone to
drill out the rivets, refinish the metal, and replace the rubber, then
reinstall new rivets.  This is the only option I think.

2 cents.
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 05:08:10 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <marttj@pcmail1.csg.mot.com>
Subject: 72 Cutlass Race Car

I live in southeast WI, and work in NE Ill, I pass a race car 72 (could
be 70-71, gut says 72) that has been on a trailer for sale for some time
at a local very small town car lot.  If anyone is genuinely interested I
can check it out and give them specifics on what drivetrain and such. 
Body wise, don't expect much, circle track kills nearly everything on
it, but the drivetrain may be worth something.

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme 307

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 06:52:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: Panman638@aol.com
Subject: Re: Chrome Work

Were is this chrome man located? I am in need of a good chrome man?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 97 07:41:40 -0600
From: "Stephen C. Chuck" <scc@teamquest.com>
Subject: Wanted 68 442 parts....

Hi guys!!
    This is my first post to the group as I just purchased a 68 cutlass 
convertible.  It's in pretty nice shape, but would like to make it look 
like a 442.  so, I am looking for the following:

rear bumper
auto shifter/console and steering column sleeve to remove old shifter
emblems

I also need the cigarette lighter knob
ignition switch plastic knob housing                                
Wiper switch knob

The car sounds really healthy (350 4V) but is gutless.  The previous owner 
took out the power glide and put in a 3 speed auto which shifts really hard 
and quick, but the car seems to be just for sound and looks.  Any ideas??


Thanks!!!
schuck@fia.net    (home)
scc@teamquest.com (work)
515-423-1542      (home)
515-357-2700      (work)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 09:22:26 -0400 (EDT)
From: Todd Hall <thall@en.com>
Subject: Re: Good Headers-please read!

At 05:23 AM 7/8/97, Chris Matthes wrote:

>they were a real bitch to put on tho, you'll want to replace your motor
>mounts, just for the sake of it, and you'll have to raise your rocket 2 to
>3 inches to get them on.
>

Chris,

How do you raise the engine 2-3 inches? By replacing the motor mounts with
a different kind?


Todd Hall
'72 442 350
Cleveland, OH

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 08:25:13 +0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: New on list

JR wrote:
> 
> James Thingwold wrote:
> >
> > >I don't 'lurk'. I just don't say much, like a Southern gentleman should.
> >
> > Is this directed at any of our more Prominent Southerners on board?!?
> > Does Florida count as Southern -if so, we should possibly direct this to
> > some of our more flamboyant members therein.
> 
> Nah, just saying whatever came to mind.
> 
> JR

JR,

That sounds like a natural reflex to me.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 09:37:48 -0400
From: Patrick Flowers <patri63@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Good Headers-please read!

Todd Hall wrote:
 
> At 05:23 AM 7/8/97, Chris Matthes wrote:
 
> >they were a real bitch to put on tho, you'll want to replace your motor
> >mounts, just for the sake of it, and you'll have to raise your rocket 2 to
> >3 inches to get them on.

> How do you raise the engine 2-3 inches? By replacing the motor mounts with
> a different kind?

Todd,

I think what he meant was you have to raise the engine off the
mounts(with a jack or hoist) to get enough clearance to install the
headers.  After they're installed you lower the engine back down to the
mounts.

Patrick
- -- 
Patrick Flowers    Mailto:patri63@ibm.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 06:55:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Stanish <stanishj@svpal.org>
Subject: Re: cam profiles

If the cam they advertise for a 69 H/O is really correct it will meet 
those specs,  same cam was used in the W34 and also W30 Automatic cars.  
Check out an Olds parts manual.  That cam was actually quite popular. I 
was the biggest cam you could get and still have enough vaccum to run power 
brakes etc.

I believe cam will fit in at least 350,400 and 455 blocks from late sixities 
to early 70s.

On Sun, 13 Jul 1997, Suzanne Rousseau wrote:

> 
> > Try Supercars Unlimited, Portland, OR, (503) 244-8249
> > 
> > Jeff Stanish, '69, '75, '79 H/Os
> > 
> > On Sat, 12 Jul 1997, dayc wrote:
> > 
> > > Does anyone now where to get the 400165 W-34 grind cam?
> > > 
> 
> Supercars Unlimited only deals in Cutlass/442 parts and probably would not
> have that cam available.  But it's worth a try.  A W-31 grind would fit
> nicely in its place though  :-)
> 
> Paul Rousseau
> *1967 442
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 10:01:00 -0400
From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
Subject: Olds Nats Trip Report

The Olds Nats were indeed a lot of fun.  Didn't race as several of you did but
I do remember seeing your cars there--the 80 442 and green 70 Cutlass were
particularly striking.  Took two of my kids so that kind of crimped things a
bit.  My 4 yr old boy has a serious car gene--you know how you could get to
within 20 feet of the burnout box, well, Sunday he found his way down there and
just stood, for around 20 minutes, just a few feet from these monster pro
eliminator cars as they did their burnouts.  He was totally transfixed by these
cars.  Didn't even bother to plug his ears.

Anyway, the drive up from the DC area was a real pleasure in the Olds.  It was
extremely hot and we got some pinging on long hot grades so I bought some
octane booster.  Wasn't very effective though, so I resorted to carefully
working the throttle and RPMs to avoid the problem.  Last thing I wanted was a
melted piston on the PA turnpike with 2 kids in the back seat.

The return trip had a bit more "drama" to it.  The ticking in my valvetrain
returned, in spite of 2 oil change and flushes with Gunk over the last month.
It seems to surface after at least an hour of high speed driving (I do  3000RPM
at 70mph) and the engine is good and hot, water temp about 190 to 200 deg.
Further, it only ticks when the engine is under load, going downhill and the
ticking goes away.  So, this time I put in a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil.  That
had no effect either.  I guess I'm resigned to fixing a hardware problem in the
valvetrain, in all likelihood buying the CompCams kit Summit sells to make it
an adjustable valvetrain.  The big question is whether I have a bad lifter.  If
so, simply installing the CompCams kit won't fix that problem.  I'd like to
avoid removing the intake to get at the lifters.  If anybody has some
diagnostic hints for lifters that would be helpful.

The other interesting thing on the long hot drive back--I used the A/C pretty
much the whole way, water temp never broke 210 deg, but my oil pressure
continued to fall over the 6 hr drive, finally reaching 25 to 26 psi.  It never
got that low before, always staying above 35 psi.  The only difference here is
the addition of the Marvel Oil, and I was driving it pretty hard in very hot
weather.

Anyway, the roads were fine, construction for many miles of the Ohio turnpike
but we still were able to cruise at 50 MPH or so.  Hopefully these roads won't
be any worse when we take the same route to Lansing next month.

Todd Morris
71 442

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 10:20:46 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Tire & ratio

I was wondering if there is anyone who would know what the formula is for
calculating gear ratio using tire height .. I remember reading that the
factory used 26" tires to calculate the factory settings for the gear ratio
what I'm looking for is the formula that will give me the different ratios
as I change my Tire Heights 
When I race my slicks are 28" tall I am trying to find out the rear end
gear ratio is if I had 3.91's what would the actual ratio be with the
taller tires 

Robert Schinkel

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 10:21:16 -0400 (EDT)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: RE: '63 Olds for Sale

From the Columbus Dispatch - July 16th

" 63 olds...runs like new....$550...614-239-9680"

Disclaimer:  I know nothing about this car.. just saw the ad in todays paper


Al Varhus
Columbus, Ohio 
http://www.infinet.com/~avar
 
  

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 10:47:03 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: New on list

At 09:14 PM 7/15/97 -0700, you wrote:
>>I don't 'lurk'. I just don't say much, like a Southern gentlemam should.
> 
>Is this directed at any of our more Prominent Southerners on board?!?
>Does Florida count as Southern -if so, we should possibly direct this to
>some of our more flamboyant members therein.

I'm sorry, Lisa, but while Florida counts as "south", it doesn't count as
part of the southern United States, but rather as part of southern New York.
So Mike F. kind of epitomizes the laid-back, but not very quiet, ethos of
his area.

You might have noticed the difference between Mike and, say, Bill Culp? That
would be the difference between Florida and the "South".
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 10:47:06 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Source for tailpipe hangers for trumpet exhaust?

At 03:07 AM 7/16/97 -0400, you wrote:
>of no one repro-ing the correct t/p hangers for the 442, but, Year One
>sells something close. I got my full exhaust system from Brother's, and it
>came with everything EXCEPT t/p hangers.  You may have to drill an extra
>hole in the frame with the Year One hangers, but they will work if'n you
>had to.  I ended up doing that with my 71 442, and they work fine with 2.5"
>exhaust.  Over 2 yrs runnin....

If I have to do something non-original, I may try something from a parts
store, and adapt it to my needs.

>Personally, I don't want to start drilling my H/O's frame, so what I think
>I will do is get the hangers "rebuilt".  In other words, get someone to
>drill out the rivets, refinish the metal, and replace the rubber, then
>reinstall new rivets.  This is the only option I think.

Come to think of it, the old exhaust that I've stored all these years might
have some hangers on it; I'll start there.

Thanks!
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 10:47:07 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Wanted 68 442 parts....

At 07:41 AM 7/16/97 -0600, you wrote:
>    This is my first post to the group as I just purchased a 68 cutlass 
>convertible.  It's in pretty nice shape, but would like to make it look 
>like a 442.  so, I am looking for the following:
<snip>
>The car sounds really healthy (350 4V) but is gutless.  The previous owner 
>took out the power glide and put in a 3 speed auto which shifts really hard 
>and quick, but the car seems to be just for sound and looks.  Any ideas??

I like the idea of a 442 replica (just as long as you're not trying to pass
it off as an original), since you don't have to worry about originality or
ruining some possible investment/restoration project.

As far as ideas, it would be hard to have a 442-like car without at least
some form of big-block motor. While you could rebuild the 350, I'd recommend
moving to a 425 or 455; cheaper in the long run to get power out of than the
350 would be. The problem with your 350 is the small cam and the small
valves. You could move to a more modern 
cam (JM18-20 has been used by many with success), and install big-block
sized valves in your 350, but again, you'd still be 50hp shy of what the
same changes would do on a big-block.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 10:47:04 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Smog Adventure

At 09:09 PM 7/15/97 -0700, you wrote:
>level for the new cars?"  My THIRTY YEAR OLD beast passed within a hairs
>breadth of the NEW car limits!  
>
>HA!  Four hundred twenty five cubic inches of Detroit iron, after thirty
>years, putting out the same exhaust emissions as a new DISPOSABLE energy
>efficient import!!**@@##*!!  And putting out over 360 hp?  
>
>Now what does that say?

I used to enjoy pointing out to my friend the fact that my 455ci SX scored
as well as or better on emissions test than my friend's (then) new '82 Trans
Am with its "awesome" 140hp 305, and got nearly the same gas mileage.

OK, enough self-congratulations... In fact, an emissions test based on
percentages isn't going to tell you how much you pollute, but what
percentage of the stuff passing through your engine is pollution; so, a 425
with a 1% CO rating pollutes more than a 135ci motor with, say, 2% CO. In
addition, while our older cars measure fine at idle, I'd cringe to think
what the percentages would be at, say, 1/2-full throttle. My Toro's 455
probably puts out more unburned hydrocarbons on a full-throttle run than a
Geo Metro can hold in its gas tank!

But I don't mean to burst your bubble, Lisa; you've got a fine-running,
sweet-looking car there, and it's probably performing beyond everyone's
expectations, especially the people who built it thirty years ago!
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 11:28:09 -0400
From: Patrick Flowers <patri63@ibm.net>
Subject: You want HOW much to fix the A/C?

My wife took the 89 DRB to a local shop this morning because the air
conditioning wasn't quite doing the job.  She's pretty smart about these
sort of places, so she gave very specific instructions.  The $30
analysis fee was OK as well as a small amount of freon, but anything
further and they had to call her for approval.

Well, needless to say, they called.  They had put in one pound of
freon(I assume R12) for $50, bringing the outlet temp down to 58 degF,
BUT, they said it needed a new receiver/dryer and seals.  The estimate
was $700!!!  I figure $80 for the r/d, $25 for the o-rings and $200 for
new freon, recycling and labor.

My question is who's crazy, me or them?

Patrick
- -- 
Patrick Flowers    Mailto:patri63@ibm.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 10:44:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Subject: Valvetrain ticking (Re: Olds Nats Trip Report)

> Further, it only ticks when the engine is under load, going downhill and the
> ticking goes away.  So, this time I put in a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil.  That
> had no effect either.  I guess I'm resigned to fixing a hardware problem in the
> valvetrain, in all likelihood buying the CompCams kit Summit sells to make it
> an adjustable valvetrain.  The big question is whether I have a bad lifter.  If

While a worn lifter with a higher than normal leakdown rate will tend to
collapse once the oil is at operating temperature, I would think that the
ticking should be engine speed dependent and not load sensitive.  The
camshaft speed ticking noise could be the result of a temperature induced
exhaust leak at one of the manifolds; this would be engine load dependent.

Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 11:39:50 -0400
From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Subject: Re: Olds Natl's - Best in Show

At 12:16 AM 7/16/97 -0400, you wrote:
> The question is(you being from Ohio).. Think you can get special Ohio
>e-check exempt plates for a car like that?  A friend was telling me he
>saw "collectors" plates on a 1985 Mustang???.. Would these be the ones I
>would try and get?

Yes you can get the plates. Alot of guys I know that have major mods or
have removed some emissions stuff have them.  I think you are only allowed
a limited amount of mileage a year on the  plates but every 5.0 I see has
them so the law isn't enforced too hard. I plan to get these plates on my
next car.

____________________________________________
Jason Labay - Quality Engineer - TRW Automotive Group
z28cfi@gwis.com  Akron, OH
93 Camaro Z/28.....soon replaced by a 94 Impala SS
80 Olds 442 W-30...2nd Place '97 Olds Nats
75 Hurst/Olds W-25

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 11:40:09 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Need AT Console Neutral Safety/Backup Light switch

Again, one of the little but necessary things to get my '70 SX back on the
road will be a Neutral safety switch for its console-mounted automatic
shifter. I vividly recall the original one falling apart one day at the
beach, and me literally putting it back together again with a penny and some
bubble-gum (and this was in the days *before* McGuyver!). Since the
bubble-gum kept drying up, I soldered the wires that went to the "neutral
safety" part of the switch together, so now it can start in gear (not a good
thing), but I will be without backup lights. 

Yeah, I could wire a toggle switch to the shifter handle for inspection
purposes, or wire a microswitch to be triggered when the handle is in
reverse, but I'd really like to have an original-style switch. Also, will a
switch from another model or another year work? Fusick's lists a '71 Switch,
but I don't know if they changed designs at all from '70 to '71.

TIA!
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 11:53:42 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Valvetrain ticking (Re: Olds Nats Trip Report)

At 10:44 AM 7/16/97 -0400, you wrote:
>> Further, it only ticks when the engine is under load, going downhill and the
<snip>
>> an adjustable valvetrain.  The big question is whether I have a bad
lifter.  If
>
>While a worn lifter with a higher than normal leakdown rate will tend to
>collapse once the oil is at operating temperature, I would think that the
>ticking should be engine speed dependent and not load sensitive.  The
>camshaft speed ticking noise could be the result of a temperature induced
>exhaust leak at one of the manifolds; this would be engine load dependent.

When I first read this, the thought of an exhaust leak also came to my mind,
especially since you can't duplicate it with the hood open and the car
sitting still (where the exact location could be pinpointed). The two
problems sound very similar, and bad lifters most often tick when the engine
is first started.

>>extremely hot and we got some pinging on long hot grades so I bought some
>>octane booster.  Wasn't very effective though, so I resorted to carefully
>>working the throttle and RPMs to avoid the problem.  Last thing I wanted was a

You've got too much vacuum advance kicking in, for the quality of today's
gasoline. I posted a message last year about the wonders a Crane Adjustable
Vacuum Advance kit did for the pinging problems in my '69 Toro's 455, which
pinged under part-throttle loads, especially when going up hills (this is
when both the vacuum and the load on the engine is pretty high). Since I
backed off the amount and rate of vacuum advance, I get no pinging, on the
hottest of days, going up steep hills at part throttle (WOT was not a
problem, because the vacuum was practically 0" and thus the vacuum unit
wasn't adding the extra advance).

Only took about 15 minutes to install, and an hour to tune; HIGHLY
RECOMMENDED for the high-compression Olds motors!

BTW, even with the 10.25:1 compression, I get no pinging on even no-name 92
octane unleaded.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 11:53:44 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: You want HOW much to fix the A/C?

At 11:28 AM 7/16/97 -0400, you wrote:
>My wife took the 89 DRB to a local shop this morning because the air
>conditioning wasn't quite doing the job.  She's pretty smart about these
<snip>
>
>Well, needless to say, they called.  They had put in one pound of
>freon(I assume R12) for $50, bringing the outlet temp down to 58 degF,
>BUT, they said it needed a new receiver/dryer and seals.  The estimate
>was $700!!!  I figure $80 for the r/d, $25 for the o-rings and $200 for
>new freon, recycling and labor.

I'd like to see an itemized estimate of that job; does it have a line for
"GTCDHW- $400"? (Gouging The Customer During Hot Weather)

Thank them for the work they've done, and definitely get a second opinion
(including an itemized estimate).
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 08:53:51 -0700
From: Jar Lyons <jarl@atrieva.com>
Subject: FS: 67 442 - WA state

My wife's step-brother is getting ready to sell
his 67 442.

I saw it once, and here's what I remember.

Blue paint - tired but presentable - original I think

Interior - I think it was fairly good, minus the front seats.

engine - only a few hundred miles on a rebuild.

I'm sure it's numbers matching.

It's located on the coast, in Aberdeen.  Been garaged for
the last several years, at least.

What should I tell him it's worth?

- -- 
Have you backed up your data today?
Atrieva Internet Backup Service http://www.atrieva.com

Jar Lyons
jarl@atrieva.com 
Atrieva Corporation  (www.atrieva.com)
600 University Street, Suite 911 
Seattle, WA  98101
Voice: (206) 749-2914,  
Fax:   (206) 382-6615
- ------------------------------------------------------------------
                1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass Convertible
                       455 Rocket Powered
                'How fast do you want to go today?'
- ------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 08:56:23 -0700
From: Jar Lyons <jarl@atrieva.com>
Subject: Re: Engine ID number

Jusuf R. Odang wrote:
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Me, from Jakarta back again with a minor problem.
> I have to re-register my 1965 delta 88 to the car registration office.
> They need to know the engine number, but we have been trying to find it
> without success ??? Its strange!!
> Can anybody out there help me the exact location for such number on the engine??
> Appreciated very much your help !!
> 
> jusuf


Not sure where the id is, but I hope your delta 88 has air.

Is this your daily driver? Or do you prefer the Kijang.


- -- 
Have you backed up your data today?
Atrieva Internet Backup Service http://www.atrieva.com

Jar Lyons
jarl@atrieva.com 
Atrieva Corporation  (www.atrieva.com)
600 University Street, Suite 911 
Seattle, WA  98101
Voice: (206) 749-2914,  
Fax:   (206) 382-6615
- ------------------------------------------------------------------
                1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass Convertible
                       455 Rocket Powered
                'How fast do you want to go today?'
- ------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 11:35:59 -0600
From: Matthew Mayer <mmayer@interaccess.com>
Subject: Update: Parts Voice - Can this be true?

Paul Hartlieb wrote:
> 
> Looking forward to hearing from someone and finding out how good this
> Parts Voice works.
> 
Paul,
   I called this morning.  nice lady answered the phone....just alittle
hard-of-hearing (it took three trys for her to figure out my name isn't
NATE....)  They DO have the parts, but the fender 395878 is listed for a
'76 88 Custom XXXXX (she couldn't read the rest...Cruiser maybe?)  I
hope this will interchange w/ your 98.  Part was described as "with
hole"  she didn't have any more info other than that.  Fender Skirt is
also available.  No reference to condition so as she said "it must be
fine."  She didn't have prices, but I gave my # so the owner can call me
later.  I will see if I can get a better desription (or maybe eyeball..)
the "hole"...

More details as events warrant...

- -- 
- ---Matt

- --------------------------------------------------------
mailto:mmayer@interaccess.com    |  VM: 800-481-1323
remove the "spoiler" for replies |
- --------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 97 11:41:44 CST
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Since Monday morning

Our e-mail gateway was having problems (sorry Greg) so I've been 
unsubscribed since Monday morning. Hopefully these have been corrected. 

I'm now resubscribed, and I'll get the digests to catch up and reply later.


David Brown       Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com  OR  http://www.en.com/users/thall

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 11:57:46 -0500
From: "LAURA D. STEINKE" <WPODOM1.HORT-FOREST.LSTEINKE@taexgw.tamu.edu>
Subject: Sticky speedometer

And yet another question <grin>  First of all...I finally got my car back
sunday...<happy smile>  I'm just now breaking in the engine which
seems to be taking forever, but I don't want to mess it up :)  Anyway I
noticed the speedometer is kinda jerking/twitching to the speed instead
of moving somewhat slowly...I thought it was just from the way they
were made, that they twitched a little, but I found out this morning that it
was indeed 'sticky'.  It got stuck on 30 for a few minutes even thru
differant speeds.  It did finally become unstuck, which is good :)

My question is can I easily fix it, something like the directions to fix the
clock (in the FAQ)?  If so, how do I get to the speedometer without
some serious wreakage (contortions I can manage, I'm a small git
<grin>).....BTW, did I miss Digest #756, or was there one?

Thanks again,
Laura

1966 Delta 88 (with a shiney rebuilt 455)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 12:13:05 -0600
From: Matthew Mayer <mmayer@interaccess.com>
Subject: '86 Tilt Steering

i have an '86 442 w/ tilt steering wheel whcich seems to have come loose
(yes, it's a little disconcerting...)  The wheel will move side to side
about 1/2" or so.  I fond details on the GN T-type page on how to fix
this, but it is fairly involved and I won't have time to get to it for a
week or two...my question is, does anyone think this is a potentially
dangerous situation??  Could something else come loose and I would be
holding a wheel connected to nothing (a la Wiley Coyote...)??  Or the
opposite is there something that could jam and I wouldn't be able to
turn the wheel at all??  

Thanks for the input...
- -- 
- ---Matt

- --------------------------------------------------------
mailto:mmayer@interaccess.com    |  VM: 800-481-1323
- --------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 00:53:57 -0700
From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Subject: Starter Motor

Replaced my starter motor tonight, it had been getting weaker and I didn't
want to get stuck somewhere on a sunny warm day with a hard hot start.
Relearned an old lesson: starter motors are the densest stuff on earth
(especially when you're under 'em and trying to thread the bolts)


New experiments:
1) installed a heat shield ($29 from my parts place).It bolts to the
starter motor, but  required a good deal of "clearancing" with a BFH. There
was no way to thread the bolts without doing some creative shaping. Ask me
later how it works. I'm hoping it will help the start on those warm days.

2) to offset my bad (that is, optmistic) memory on when I last replaced
parts, I've started date stamping them with a marker pen when I put 'em on.
That way I can keep on top of how long I've had each part. I'm figuring
this will really
help when I have to replace my alternator in three years and it seems like
I just replaced it three months ago... Might also be good parts age
authentication for those of you who sell your cars.

maybe these ideas will help. See you in Lansing.

cf

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 00:25:36 -0700
From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Subject: Re: Authenticity..

>Greetings all,
>
>     I have some questions on the authenticity of a couple of things on my 66
>Dynamic convert. First, the car has 15" wheels on it, but a 14" spare.
>All of the literature I can find on the car sez that it came with 14's.
>However the wheel covers match the covers that are in the photos I have,
>and they fit the 15s,NOT the 14" spare. Factory or dealer option?

This is deep stuff. I thought all 66 big cars were delivered with 14"
wheels. I learned from Bryce that 15" were an option, but don't know about
whether this was dealer or factory. My guess would be dealer as part of a
towing package or something. Which wheel covers do you have that fit the
15"'s? Dog Dish, regular  or the fancy ones with the plastic centers?
>
>      Second, the air cleaner is roughly rectangular (about 18x23 ") with two
>rect. outlets on either side facing forward, a pre-heat outlet on the pass.
>side, a pcv outlet on the drivers side and a small vacuum fitting on the
>rear that controls two vacuum actuators inside the housing. Is this an
>Olds air cleaner? It looks like some Bui*k air cleaners I've seen. And by
>the way, it has the orig.( or atleast its a 66) 425 w/ 2 bbl.

The square air cleaner was a 68 item as i recall. The factory item for 66
was a big red normal round air cleaner with an engine type on it (Super
Rocket, Ultra High Compression).

Hope this helps

cf

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 14:52:33 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Since Monday Morning

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
	id AA869078552; Wed, 16 Jul 97 11:41:44 CST
Date:	Wed, 16 Jul 97 11:41:44 CST
From:	"David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>

Our e-mail gateway was having problems (sorry Greg) so I've been 
un*ubscribed since Monday morning. Hopefully these have been corrected. 

I'm now re*ubscribed, and I'll get the digests to catch up and reply later.


David Brown       Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com  OR  http://www.en.com/users/thall

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 14:00:38 -0400
From: pteubel@imail.safety1st.com (Peter Teubel)
Subject: FSM Copies needed

     Does anyone out there in Olds land have an FSM for a '51 98?  I need 
     copies of the transmission removal section.  I'm having a tranny 
     removed at a 'yard by a friend who is not familiar with this old car.  
     Can anyone send or fax me those few pages?  Thanks in advance!
     
     - Pete Teubel
     '51 98
     '82 98
     '86 Ciera

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 11:03:00 -0500 (EST)
From: Pajak_John%PAX1@mr.nawcad.navy.mil
Subject: BUY THIS!

     FOR SALE  
1972 442 convertible. 129K, 350 4 barrel, rebuilt Turbo 350 automatic; runs 
good. Power steering, power brakes with front discs. A/C all there but needs 
recharging. Flame orange with white W30-style stripes. Sport mirrors. Nice 
grilles. (5) 14x7 SSII wheels. White bench seat interior, shifter on column. 
Manual windows and seat. Front and rear seat upholstery correct and new. No 
radio. New white top with glass window. Has headers and dual exhaust. A 
decent presentable driver. I have too many cars! $6000/offer

Please reply to the EMAIL address below; I'm not currently on the list

John Pajak    301-863-5319
Lexington Park, MD
Pajak_John%PAX1@MR.NAWCAD.NAVY.MIL

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 14:20:04 +0500
From: Gary Moose <moose@phicom.net>
Subject: (no subject)

unsubscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 97 13:31:54 CST
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: '77-'90 full-size: Speedometer illumination

Funny, my '77's speedometer's right most bulb socket is loose, and 
correspondingly dark! The plastic surrounding the socket is loose, so good 
contact isn't formed. I was thinking about building up a bit of solder on the 
bulb contacts to form good contact, but haven't treaded down that path yet.

I don't know about an easier way to change the sockets. They are really 
recessed. Sounds like you found a some good replacements though. 

David Brown       Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com  OR  http://www.en.com/users/thall

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds
- ------------

David, is there anyway to
change these sockets without exposing flesh to numerous sharp edges and
disassembling the _entire_ dashboard, just short of dropping the steering 
column?  I obtained sockets from a newer Delta 88 ('84?) which seem to be
of a more durable plastic.  They wouldn't twist securely into the '77
instrument panel, so I used some epoxy to make sure they won't shake loose.

Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #758
********************************

