To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #763


oldsmobile-digest       Saturday, July 19 1997       Volume 01 : Number 763



Re: Oil, race Cutlass!!!!
Re: New Addition to the Family... ;-)
Rocker Arm Pedistals
Re: New Addition to the Family... ;-)
Re: New Addition to the Family... ;-)
Re: New Addition to the Family... ;-)
Re: Smog Adventure
Lead on Olds conv. for sale
Re: New Addition to the Family... ;-)
Re: Hurst package
Re: Hurst package
Part Needed
remove
Re: Non-Olds - But What's It Worth?
Re: Parts Lead...
Radio "69 442"
Re: Radio "69 442"
Re: Rare find?!  /  Chris Witt
Re: Radio "69 442"
Re: '69 H/O Convertibles -Reply
Re: Body Paint colors
Re: Hurst package
Re: Smog Adventure
Re: '84 307 V8 locked up/ LeSabre Limited value
Re: Need a few parts...
HELP ME!!!
seat back paint?
Re: Rocker Arm Pedistals
Re: Oil, race Cutlass!!!!
Re: Oil, race Cutlass!!!!
IVOC show
UNBOUNCE: '62 F-85 Parts
Re: Olds clock
Re: New Addition to the Family... ;-)
Estimate on a '70 Delta 88 convertible, please
Re: New Addition to the Family... ;-)
442/Cutlass Parts For Sale
Re: Smog Adventure
Re: SB 42 & Calif Smog
Re: CHROME
Re: CHROME
parts needed;questions
Re: CHROME
Re: Rocker Arm Pedistals
Re: UNBOUNCE: '62 F-85 Parts
Re: '84 307 V8 locked up/ LeSabre Limited value
Carb ID Number
Re: Carb ID Number
Re: New Addition to the Family... ;-)
Size of orignal tires for 81 Cutlass Supreme
Re: Wanted 68 442 parts....
Re: Rocker Arm Pedistals
Re: Carb ID Number
Re: Overheating!!!!
a few replies ala' digest

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 14:25:26 -0400 (EDT)
From: PaulP34167@aol.com
Subject: Re: Oil, race Cutlass!!!!

In a message dated 97-07-17 18:20:59 EDT, you write:

> > It's best to just stick with 100% synthetic oil.  It might be more
>  > expensive initially, but considering that you only have to change it
about
>  > every 20,000 Km it ends up acutually being cheaper than conventional
oil,
>  > and protects your engine much better than conventional oil.

Well, I think I remember seeing something about the synthetic oil
manufacturers changing their recommendation about when to change their oil.
 They recommended changing it just as often as conventional oil.

>  I have a tip for all of you. Buy Amsoil 2000. A friend of mine and his
>  kid did a science project about motor oils at his shop, complete with a
>  dyno. They ran every test they could think of (did I mention this guy
>  builds race engines for a living). I saw the results Tuesday. Amsoil and
>  Amsoil 2000 clearly beat every other "name brand" oil on the market.
>  That's why I use it.

Again there are some conflicting opinions on this topic.  Consumer Reports
ran some tests awile back and determined there was no real advantage of using
synthetics in the average vehicle.  They did see a slight advantage using
synthetics in severe (ie. racing) applications.

Paul Pate
70 Cutlass S (350-4V, 3.08 diff., TH350)
84 Camaro (305-4V, 3.08 diff., 700R4, low options)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 12:00:32 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@aisf.com>
Subject: Re: New Addition to the Family... ;-)

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>
> I'm pleased to announce the addition of another Oldsmobile to the
> ranks... I bought the '78 Delta I mentioned here the other day. It's my

Congratulations!

> Some questions:
>
> Re. the tires, they are 235/70R15 all around right now. Are the originals
> supposed to be 215/75R15?

When I had my 77 the original tires was 205/70R15.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 14:10:59 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <marttj@pcmail1.csg.mot.com>
Subject: Rocker Arm Pedistals

Can anyone tell me if the Rocker Arms Pedistals are truly a problem with
Olds'?  I am getting ready to build me a 350 and want to build it for
reliability.  I have been told they can break 2 weeks old or last
300,000 miles.  What is the secret to making them last?

Thanks
Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme 307 (getting a 350 soon!)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 16:11:55 -0400
From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Subject: Re: New Addition to the Family... ;-)

At 02:30 PM 7/18/97 -0300, you wrote:
>
>I'm pleased to announce the addition of another Oldsmobile to the
>ranks... I bought the '78 Delta I mentioned here the other day. It's my
>new grocery-getter car, enabling me to retire the Cutlass to a life of
>pampered luxury.

Greg, congratulations! I just had a new addition to the family also. You
have been on this quest a long time I remember. Glad you finally found a
good car at a good price. Enjoy!
____________________________________________
Jason Labay - Quality Engineer - TRW Automotive Group
z28cfi@gwis.com  Akron, OH
95 DCM Impala SS.....daily driver..1/4 times  to  come
80 Olds 442 W-30.......show car...2nd place '97 Olds Nats.
75 Hurst/Olds W-25...restoration project

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 13:07:43 -0700
From: enowacki@titan.com (Erik Nowacki)
Subject: Re: New Addition to the Family... ;-)

>Any idea where I could pick up a '78 factory service manual cheap?
>
Greg,

        Congrats on the new Olds good luck.  As for the shop manual, try
Automotive Information Clearinghouse at (619) 447-7200.  I am not sure what
you mean by cheap, but AIC has a pretty good selection of old factory shop
manuals.

Erik Nowacki
1972 Vista Cruiser

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 13:07:43 -0700
From: enowacki@titan.com (Erik Nowacki)
Subject: Re: New Addition to the Family... ;-)

>Any idea where I could pick up a '78 factory service manual cheap?
>
Greg,

        Congrats on the new Olds good luck.  As for the shop manual, try
Automotive Information Clearinghouse at (619) 447-7200.  I am not sure what
you mean by cheap, but AIC has a pretty good selection of old factory shop
manuals.

Erik Nowacki
1972 Vista Cruiser

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 17:14:49 -0300
From: enowacki@titan.com (Erik Nowacki)
Subject: Re: Smog Adventure

>Dan Lacey wrote:
>>
>> Frustrated and ONLY buying pre 1966 cars from now on...
>
>Move.  In Florida, the rules start with the 1975 model year.  :)
>
This is a very interesting thread.  Does anyone know what the rules are for
Arizona and Nevada??  If the proposed law in CA to make all cars 25 years
and older exempt from emissions testing doesn't pass, I might be interested
in registering my cars out of state.

BTW, has anyone heard anything on the CA bill?  I think it was called SB-42.

Erik Nowacki
1972 Vista Cruiser

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 16:49:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: OLDZ69442@aol.com
Subject: Lead on Olds conv. for sale

   1968 Olds Delmont 88 conv. for sale.  Beautiful red paint, new carpets and
top, smooth running 455 motor, garage kept, new carb, radiator, alternator.
 A/C doesn't work, radio is intermittant.  Asking $7000.
   Car belongs to a friend of mine.  With a little TLC this car could be a
real beauty.
    E-mail owner at eyah@delphi.com  or  call Ted @ 609 983 4319


     Bob Iozia
     69 442

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 17:07:43 -0300
From: enowacki@titan.com (Erik Nowacki)
Subject: Re: New Addition to the Family... ;-)

>Any idea where I could pick up a '78 factory service manual cheap?
>
Greg,

        Congrats on the new Olds good luck.  As for the shop manual, try
Automotive Information Clearinghouse at (619) 447-7200.  I am not sure what
you mean by cheap, but AIC has a pretty good selection of old factory shop
manuals.

Erik Nowacki
1972 Vista Cruiser

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 17:24:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: MSylves510@aol.com
Subject: Re: Hurst package

1967 442 4-speeds
sports coupe              2535
holiday coupe             7661
convertible                 1185

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 17:27:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: MSylves510@aol.com
Subject: Re: Hurst package

all 3 and 4 speeds were hurst
4-speeds
sports coupe        2535
holiday coupe       7661
convertible            1185
total                      11381 made

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 17:37:07 -0400 (EDT)
From: OLDZ69442@aol.com
Subject: Part Needed

       Need for a 69 442 w/ Hurst 4spd : the bracket that comes off the front
of the tranny that houses the shift interlock rod.
       Hurst corp./ Mr. Gasket no longer makes this bracket.
       Anyone have a NOS, Used or know of a Repro?
       Any help is appreciated!
       Happy Oldsmobiling
       Bob Iozia
       69 442












------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 17:40:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: MSylves510@aol.com
Subject: remove



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 17:53:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Non-Olds - But What's It Worth?

In a message dated 97-07-18 12:03:28 EDT, you write:

<< > I THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR BEING THE FIRST ONE TO OBSERVE THIS AND NOT
JUST
 > ASSUMING THAT IM BEING RUDE LIKE SO MANY HAVE DONE...HOPE TO HAVE ANOTHER
 > KEYBOARD SOON..

 In the olds chat room you were able to type in lower case when asked
 to... what gives?

 Ken
  >>
SORRY BUT I HAVE NOT BEEN TO THE OLDS CHATROOM, ILL JUST NOT MAKE ANYMORE
RESPONSES UNTIL I GET ANOTHER KEYBOARD. AGAIN SORRY THIS IS SUCH A PROBLEM TO
YOU KEN...GEEZ

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 18:06:56 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Parts Lead...

Mike Hall wrote:
>
> I regularly attend a cruise/car show here in Ortonville every Thursday
> night. I met a fella there who says he has TWO N.O.S. Rear Quarters for
> 70'-72' Cutlass/442. These are Convertible style quarters.
>
> Anyone who has an interest please contact:
>
> Ross Reinhardt
> (810) 713-4341
>
> Regards,
> Mike
>
> Michael R. Hall                                Ortonville, Michigan
> Home E-Mail: oldsmike@flash.net
> The Oldsmobile Stable:
>      1971 Oldsmobile 442, A Work In Progress...
>      1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S, 380 horses of pure Mondello fun...
>      1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm, the classy one...
Mike,

Get some details on the quarters if possible, condition (obviously
should be good but who knows), years and types of vehicles they fit, and
last but not lest, price and location.

Don Sowers

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 18:06:24 -0700
From: JFOWLER@capecod.net
Subject: Radio "69 442"

O.K.  How do you tell the difference between AM/FM radios from a full
size and a 442?  Also, does a 69 442 radio have a part ª or a way of
telling it's for a 69?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 18:28:25 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Radio "69 442"

JFOWLER@capecod.net wrote:
>
> O.K.  How do you tell the difference between AM/FM radios from a full
> size and a 442?  Also, does a 69 442 radio have a part ª or a way of
> telling it's for a 69?

The full size radio has an all chrome bezel on it for one, while the
F-85 has chrome edging on black.  Also, if you can see it out of the
car, facing the front, on the left side on the face, it has ª 7299199
cast into it.  If it is a stereo, it won't even fit in the F-85 because
of the heat sink mounted on the antenna hole side.  Stero model ª is
93BFM1 on the full size.  I don't know what it is for F-85, because it's
installed in the car. (Part ª's below)  The casing size is the same, as
with the width of the knobs.  Physically, you could fit the stereo
version in the 442, but you would have to move that heat sink out of the
way, or cut your dash brackets. (Yikes!)

If the knobs are on the radio, they are silver, with black outlining,
and serrated around the edges, just like the headlight switch knob.  As
far as I know, 69 was the only year to use these knobs on the 442.

Part ª's are as follows for the 442.

7307803-AM            U63 opt.
7307863-AM/FM         U69 opt.
7311583-AM/FM stereo  U58 opt.

Hope this helps you.

Mike Rothe


Hope this helps you.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 16:57:58 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Rare find?!  /  Chris Witt

Jim & Joanne Chermack wrote:
>
> At 09:49 PM 7/17/97 -0400, you wrote:
> >Chris,
> >
> >< Anybody need a nice posi? W30 air cleaner? MT setup? Rallye Pack?
> >
> >I could use an air cleaner and Rallye Pack.
> >
> Chris
>         How much for the Manual trans? Is it a M21 or a M20?
>
> Jim Chermack

Just a note, I think Chris is still Digest only, so those interested in
his equipment might e-mail him directly...

Charley Buehner
buehner@lyrea.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 19:02:42 -0400
From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
Subject: Re: Radio "69 442"

JFOWLER@capecod.net wrote:
>
> O.K.  How do you tell the difference between AM/FM radios from a full
> size and a 442?  Also, does a 69 442 radio have a part ª or a way of
> telling it's for a 69?
 I happen to have my radio out that was in my 69 442.  The label on the
back reads:

Service model no.  93APF1
Serial no.  34- 17717

Wayne Schwartz
69 442 rag top

Product no. 7307863

Its an AM FM

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 19:44:53 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: '69 H/O Convertibles -Reply

Mike Rothe wrote:
>
> Tony Molinaro wrote:
> >
> > I have heard one of the 69 H\O conv. was given to Ms. Hurst Linda
> > Vaughn.
> >
> True, but she has since sold it, or it was reported as such.  George
> Hurst had the other one.  Don't know what happened to his.
>
> BTW, as far as H/O rarities.....John Demmer of Demmer Engineering (the
> contractor that "built" the H/O'for Hurst) has the only 68 H/O 4-speed.
> The rest of the 68's and ALL 69's were automatics.  I believe he still
> owns it.

You can see it at http://www.442.com/museum.html (not that you can tell
it's a 4-speed...)

- --
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 19:26:55 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Body Paint colors

+------------------------------------+
| Chris,                             |
| You forgot "EBONY BLACK    CODE A" |
+------------------------------------+

Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) wrote:
>
> Dawn Roode wrote:
>
> > I know this question's probably been answered a thousand times, but what
> > body colors were offered for the 68 Cutlass and or 442?  In particular,
> > was black a choice?
>
> The colors were:
>
> Twilight Teal Irid.     Code B (Toronado Only)
> Provincial White        Code C
> Sapphire Blue Irid.     Code D
> Nocturne Blue Irid.     Code E
> Teal Frost Irid.        Code F
> Willow Gold Irid.       Code G
> Ocean Turquoise Irid.   Code K
> Teal Blue Irid.         Code L
> Cinnamon Bronze Irid.   Code M
> Burgundy Irid.          Code N
> Silver Green Irid.      Code P
> Scarlet                 Code R
> Jade Code Irid.         Code S
> Ivory                   Code T
> Juneau Gray Irid.       Code V
> Silver Beige Irid.      Code W (Toronado Only)
> Buckskin                Code X
> Saffron                 Code Y
> Peruvian Silver Irid.   Code Z (Toronado Only)
>
> Chris Sparks

- --
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 19:46:59 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Hurst package

'67 4-4-2 production numbers
                 3 speed      4 speed    auto    total
 sport coupes      422          2535     1793     4750   (129 w-30's)
 holiday coupes    409          7661     8928    16998   (373 w-30's)
 convertibles       87          1185     1807     3079   (0   w-30's)


- --
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 16:51:52 -0700
From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Subject: Re: Smog Adventure

<snip>
>
>On another note, if you change ANYTHING on your car, it will not pass
>visual inspection. This eliminates the ability to use new more efficient
>technology. You cannot for instance put EFI on your car (correct me if I'm
>wrong). I was having trouble with my Toyota carb. (The variable venturi
>piece o s*&t!), and I can ONLY replace it with a Toyota carb ($500+). It
>doesn't matter if I use some other carb and get better emmissions/mpg.
>
>Signed,
>
>Frustrated and ONLY buying pre 1966 cars from now on...
>
>
>*************************************************************************
>* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
>*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
>* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
>*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
>*************************************************************************

The scoop is if your retrofit anything other than the factory system, you
have to go to (and pay for?) and referee to arbitrate between the state's
interests and your own. Sigh. So if you go out and get a closed loop
FI system with catalytic converters, you still have to get some bureaucrat's
o.k. to drive it on the hiway.

cf

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 21:02:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tornado697@aol.com
Subject: Re: '84 307 V8 locked up/ LeSabre Limited value

definitly put a rebuilt 350 in it, customize the interior and you have a
great car to sell to the younger generation..trust me im 1 of em!!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 97 21:35:33 -0500
From: Mike Hall <oldsmike@flash.net>
Subject: Re: Need a few parts...

>        We have the two pieces your looking for. How's $10.00 each sound?
>Let us know.

Jim,
Just to confirm that we are talking about the same pieces... I am
interested in the metal bracketry and the wire for both of these parts.
These are the pieces that the light bulb fits into and the lenses screw
into.

10 bucks each is fine with me.

Those SSII and SSIII, are they 15" x 7" rims with the bolt on center caps
by chance?

Regards,
Mike Hall


Michael R. Hall                                Ortonville, Michigan
Home E-Mail: oldsmike@flash.net
The Oldsmobile Stable:
     1971 Oldsmobile 442, A Work In Progress...
     1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S, 380 horses of pure Mondello fun...
     1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm, the classy one...

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 04:54:12 +0000
From: "LCPL JACKS AIMD/IMO3  X7402" <j3910@boxer.navy.mil>
Subject: HELP ME!!!

I am in need of some help. I need some parts for a '62 Olds F-85. I
need the 2-brl carb rebuilt or a new direct replacement. If anyone
has the four barrel manifold and carb for the '62 F-85 that might be
an option. I am also gonna be puting an MSD coil and 6A has anybody
got some good word on that. I am asking for full cooperation
considering I am overseas right now and only have E-mail access and
mail.


thanx

Ben
'62 Olds F-85
'68 Olds 442

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 22:13:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Douglas J Harkema" <harkema2@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: seat back paint?

Hi
    can you paint the plastic seat backs and armrest bases,  If so what kind of
paint and do any companies have the correct color for my needs?
Saddle interior

I would figure it would have to be a very flat paint?
I'm grasping for money savings!

Thanks
Doug H

70 supreme conv.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 21:23:05 -0500
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: Rocker Arm Pedistals

> Can anyone tell me if the Rocker Arms Pedistals are truly a problem with
> Olds'?  I am getting ready to build me a 350 and want to build it for
> reliability.  I have been told they can break 2 weeks old or last
> 300,000 miles.  What is the secret to making them last?
>
> Thanks
> Thomas Martin
> 85 Cutlass Supreme 307 (getting a 350 soon!)

As long as there is a good supply of oil coming from the pushrods and the
rockers are correctly adjusted they will last a long time.

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 21:29:00 -0500
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: Oil, race Cutlass!!!!

> >  I have a tip for all of you. Buy Amsoil 2000. A friend of mine and his
> >  kid did a science project about motor oils at his shop, complete with
a
> >  dyno. They ran every test they could think of (did I mention this guy
> >  builds race engines for a living). I saw the results Tuesday. Amsoil
and
> >  Amsoil 2000 clearly beat every other "name brand" oil on the market.
> >  That's why I use it.
>
> Again there are some conflicting opinions on this topic.  Consumer
Reports
> ran some tests awile back and determined there was no real advantage of
using
> synthetics in the average vehicle.  They did see a slight advantage using
> synthetics in severe (ie. racing) applications.
>
> Paul Pate
> 70 Cutlass S (350-4V, 3.08 diff., TH350)
> 84 Camaro (305-4V, 3.08 diff., 700R4, low options)

I remember read several years ago a test a magazine did. They took a late
'60s Road Runner to the strip ran it a couple times with conventional oil
swicthed to synthetic and claimed it picked up something like .30 in the
1/4. I find it kinda hard to believe but I guess it could be possible.

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 21:29:00 -0500
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: Oil, race Cutlass!!!!

> >  I have a tip for all of you. Buy Amsoil 2000. A friend of mine and his
> >  kid did a science project about motor oils at his shop, complete with
a
> >  dyno. They ran every test they could think of (did I mention this guy
> >  builds race engines for a living). I saw the results Tuesday. Amsoil
and
> >  Amsoil 2000 clearly beat every other "name brand" oil on the market.
> >  That's why I use it.
>
> Again there are some conflicting opinions on this topic.  Consumer
Reports
> ran some tests awile back and determined there was no real advantage of
using
> synthetics in the average vehicle.  They did see a slight advantage using
> synthetics in severe (ie. racing) applications.
>
> Paul Pate
> 70 Cutlass S (350-4V, 3.08 diff., TH350)
> 84 Camaro (305-4V, 3.08 diff., 700R4, low options)

I remember read several years ago a test a magazine did. They took a late
'60s Road Runner to the strip ran it a couple times with conventional oil
swicthed to synthetic and claimed it picked up something like .30 in the
1/4. I find it kinda hard to believe but I guess it could be possible.

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 21:40:39 -0500
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: IVOC show

Any body going to the Uftring Olds fun show on July 26 in Washington Il.?

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 23:39:59 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: '62 F-85 Parts

The H*LP word again... forwarding.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:"LCPL JACKS AIMD/IMO3  X7402" <j3910@boxer.navy.mil>
Date:Sat, 19 Jul 1997 04:54:12 +0000

I am in need of some help. I need some parts for a '62 Olds F-85. I
need the 2-brl carb rebuilt or a new direct replacement. If anyone
has the four barrel manifold and carb for the '62 F-85 that might be
an option. I am also gonna be puting an MSD coil and 6A has anybody
got some good word on that. I am asking for full cooperation
considering I am overseas right now and only have E-mail access and
mail.


thanx

Ben
'62 Olds F-85
'68 Olds 442

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 02:28:17 +0100
From: "Bruce Marshall" <bruce@shore.net>
Subject: Re: Olds clock

$100

Plastic on dial is somewhat "crazed".  Rest in excellent shape.

Bruce Marshall

- ----------
> From: william goodnight <idaholc@primenet.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Olds clock
> Date: Friday, July 11, 1997 12:54 AM
>
> >
> >
> >Guess I'd sell it if there is some interest.
> >
> >Bruce Marshall:
>
>
> Is it cosmetically in good shape?  If so, what would you want for it?  I
> might be interested.
>
>
>
> Bill Goodnight
> Goodnight & Associates, Inc.
> idaholc@primenet.com
> Boise, Idaho

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 22:35:50 -0400
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: New Addition to the Family... ;-)

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>
> I'm pleased to announce the addition of another Oldsmobile to the
> ranks... I bought the '78 Delta I mentioned here the other day. It's my
> new grocery-getter car, enabling me to retire the Cutlass to a life of
> pampered luxury.
>
> Here's my take on what I've bought:
>
> Pluses:
> - Very nice drivetrain (350 Rocket/TH350), mechanicals seem good
> - Solid body, not bad paint either, nice vinyl roof (dark red/dark red)
> - Rides well, very peppy
> - Interior presentable (see below)
> - Only approx. 66K miles
> - The price was right :)
>
> Minuses:
> - Needs front armrests (drivers is tattered, passengers not so bad); also
> B-pillar trim is cracked and shoulder harness frayed  on drivers side.
> Rest of interior fine, shows only normal wear.
> - Not much in the way of options - AM radio(gotta find an AM/FM at least),
> cruise, remote mirror (currently cockeyed, gotta check), rear defogger
> - Aftermarket faux-wire wheel covers (gotta replace those eventually)
> - Front springs seem a little saggy (have to admit I didn't notice this
> until I got it home... :o)
> - Couple of minor dings, nothing major
> - Dash lights barely work (discovered this when I got it home last night,
> only odometer seems illuminated, hope its not the horror show that has
> been posted here this week)
> - Could use front tires
>
> Some questions:
>
> Re. the tires, they are 235/70R15 all around right now. Are the originals
> supposed to be 215/75R15?
>
> Re. the dash lights, how do you access them to check/change them? Are
> they the wedgy ª194 bulbs?
>
> Any idea where I could pick up a '78 factory service manual cheap?
>
> I'm sure these are only the first of many questions I'll have... stay
> tuned! Thanks in advance.
>
> Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada


Congratulations Greg!  It's rare that two people on the list actually
own the *identical* car.  The year, model, drivetrain, and the int. &
ext. colours (vinyl roof too) are all the same.  I asked my father about
the original tires on it, because he is the one I inherited it from.  It
came from the factory with 225/75/15's on it, and he's never deviated
from it.  When I replace the rubber on it, I plan on going with a set of
235/60/15 Predators (Motomaster), which are a borderline high-perf
tire...plus, they're white-lettered, so they'd look cool with the OEM
wire hubcaps.  I'd like your opinion on this...

You said you wanted the OEM AM/FM/cass deck for the '78?  Well, I've got
one, which is made by Sanyo, and I'll be pulling it out some time in the
near future when I drop in a digital JVC cass. deck, 6-pack CD changer
in the trunk, and maybe a pair of Rockford Fostgate subs--I'm still a
kid at heart...Sawyer Brown sounds excellent with 500 watts of bass
power!  But before the thousand-dollar subs and amp combo, she'll be
getting painted up, either a pearl-coat white, or a clear-coat dark red
(the same).

If you find a simple way to correct the "Stevie Wonder" problem with the
dash lights, let me know.  I'm a bit of a backyard mechanic, and a
jacknife carpenter--if it can't be fixed with duct tape, or plastic zip
ties, I usually leave it alone.  Talk to Kevin Wong...he's the one with
the horror story.

Yeah, the oil filler hole is mounted at the front of the engine, so it
is identical to the one in your Olds.  Are you sure it's the Rocket?
Some people have told me that they quit building the Rocket engines in
75-76, and they were replaced with the "Rochester 350".  The two names
sound too similar to be two different things.  What is the
horsepower/torque rating for these engines?  I've heard everything from
150 to 225hp, and 195-275 ft/lbs...please set me straight.

If you don't mind me asking, how much did you end up paying for the car?
Once I'm through with my Olds (brake sys, rubber, paint), I'd like to
know how much it's worth.

S. Dave Ward(Peterborough, Ontario, CANADA)

'78 Delta 88 (350 4bbl.)
'85 Delta 88 (307 4bbl.)
'91 Chev Sierra 4x4 (305 TBI)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 21:47:53 -0600
From: beeber@inetco.net (Karen Beeber)
Subject: Estimate on a '70 Delta 88 convertible, please

I am looking at this car to buy and would like an estimated value of worth.
Thanks!

1970 Delta 88 Convertible (everything seems original)
455 Rocket
matching motor and trans
66,000 miles
AM Radio
interior green with a 3 small rips (3" or less)
carpet needs replacing
one 6 inch crack in dash
new top (I think it's J.C. Whitney type though)
some rust right front fender behind wheel well
original green paint - no finish left
right rear quarter has some bondo
body otherwise straight and solid
mechanically sound but hasn't been driven for a while
older lady only owner

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 22:41:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Subject: Re: New Addition to the Family... ;-)

Hi Greg,

> - Solid body, not bad paint either, nice vinyl roof (dark red/dark red)

GM didn't fix the rust problem at the vinyl/paint interface until the
'80s, so it would be a good idea to spray some Rust-Check in this area
periodically.

> - Rides well, very peppy

This low-option Delta 88 probably weighs close to 4000lbs, which is on the
light end of the spectrum for full-size cars.  My friend's Custom Cruiser,
at 4500lbs with the same drivetrain, isn't too shabby of a performer!

> - Needs front armrests (drivers is tattered, passengers not so bad); also
> B-pillar trim is cracked and shoulder harness frayed  on drivers side.

These are easy, bolt-on items.  Look for '77-'85 Delta 88's, '77-'90
Custom Cruisers, and don't be afraid to look into full-size RWD Ch*vs,
P*ntiacs, and B*ick LeSabres for donor parts.  Electras and 98s have
different armrests.

> - Front springs seem a little saggy (have to admit I didn't notice this
> until I got it home... :o)

Although not their intended purpose, try some high pressure gas shocks
like the deCarbons I've mentioned earlier.  They raised the front of my
car 1", more than I've observed from cheaper gas shocks.

> Re. the dash lights, how do you access them to check/change them? Are
> they the wedgy ª194 bulbs?

It is possible to change the bulbs without disassembling the entire
dashboard.  Take a small flathead screwdriver and remove the headlight
switch knob.  Remove 2 phillips screws just above the steering column,
facing upwards.  Take out the small filler piece between the knee
bolster and steering column.  The rest of the driver's side dash is only
held on by clips, so gently pull the plastic panel towards you, then
upwards and over the steering wheel.  I think 4 x 1/4" bolts hold on the
speedometer's clear plastic cover, then 2 more secure the
odometer/speedometer needle unit.  If it has the trip odometer, there will
be a bit more involved.  You might have to detach the speedometer cable to
gain enough clearance to reach the 2 speedometer bulbs.  If the problem is
anything like the '77 Custom Cruiser I was working on, the lights will
still be good, and may illuminate when wiggled.  I found that the
surrounding plastic had melted and deformed, so I deemed it necessary to
change the sockets.  In any case, I think the bulbs are ª194.  ª192 would
be a bit brighter, but the higher wattage may aggravate the heat problem.

Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 00:40:17 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale

                              C&M Classic Parts

Hours:  Mon-Fri  6:00 pm - 10:00 pm, Sat 9:00 am - 6:00 pm
____________________________________________________________________
65 Cutlass/442 Wheelwell Moldings  $20.00 ea
65 Hood Molding (fair cond)  $10.00
66 442 Side Mount Tach (works and looks great)  $250.00
66-67 Rear Window Molding Sets  $75.00 set
67 F-85 Trunk Chrome Panel (excellent no pits)  $90.00
67 F-85 Rear Bumper (good condition)  $75.00
67 Front Bumper (straight)  $65.00
67 Cutlass Headlight Bezels (nice)  $55.00 pr
67 442 Taillight Bezels (some pits)  $20.00 pr
67 442 Trunk Lids (clean)  $100.00 ea
67 442/Cutlass RH Fender (Arizona part)  $300.00
67 442 Pie Tin Decal  $5.00
67 442 Tail Light Bezels (some pitting)  $50.00 pr
67 442 Fender Emblems (paint nice, few tiny pits)  $10.00 ea
67 442 Trunk Emblem (nice)  $10.00
67 C/S Trunk Emblem (nice)  $15.00
68 Cutlass/442 Owners Manual  $5.00
68-72 400/455 Notched Valve covers  $50.00 pr
69 W/Z Exhaust Manifolds (w/ heat riser)  $200.00 pr
70-72 Cutlass/442 Coupe Trunk Lid (nice)  $150.00
70 OAI Hood (very nice original)  $900.00
70-72 W/Z Exhaust Manifolds (w/o heat riser)  $200.00 pr
Bumper Bracket sets ALL years  $25.00 pr
70-72 455 Engine Mounts (NEW)  $40.00 pr
68-72 350 Engine Mounts (NEW)  $38.00 pr
TH350 Shift Cable Bracket  $15.00

New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts for 1964-1972 Cutlass/442
_______________________________________________
66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) $34.50 ea
68-75 SSII/III Center Caps (N.O.S.) $34.50 ea
69 Cutlass RH Grilles (N.O.S.) $70.00 ea
70 Cutlass Supreme Grilles  $115.00 pr
70-72 LH Coupe/Conv Door Skin (N.O.S.)  $200.00
70-72 Cutlass/442 LH Fenders (N.O.S.) $450.00 ea
71-72 Turn Signal Lens (N.O.S.)  $90.00 pr
71-72 Stone Shields (N.O.S.) $38.00 ea
71-72 Headlight Housings (plastic) (N.O.S.) $80.00 pr
71-72 Cutlass Rear Bumpers (N.O.S.) $380.00 ea
71-75  Cutlass Fender Emblems (N.O.S.)  $19.50 ea
72 Cutlass Supreme & Hurst/Olds Grilles (N.O.S.)  $125.00 pr

Used Parts
_______________________________________________
64 Cutlass/442
RH Headlight Bezel  $15.00
Front Bumper Core  $40.00
LH/RH Taillight Lens  $8.00 ea
F-85 Fender Emblem (nice)  $5.00
V-8 Emblem  $5.00

66 Cutlass/442
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
66 Cutlass/442 Full Turbine Hucaps (very, very nice)  $230.00 set
Headlight Bezels  $40.00 pr
LH C/S Rear side molding  $10.00
Exterior A-Pillar Chrome Moldings  $15.00 pr
F-85/Cutlass Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea

67 Cutlass/442
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
67 LH Fender (Arizona part) Very nice  $300.00
67 RH Fender (small hole, straight)  $200.00
Deluxe Full Turbine Wheel Covers  $20.00 ea
Full Wheel Covers  $40.00 set

68 Cutlass/442
68 Lower Dash (radio area)  (nice)  $25.00
68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
68-69 LH Quarter Panel  4 door (mint)  $225.00
68-69 RH Quarter Panel  4 door (mint)  $225.00
68/69 SSII 14x6 Wheels (4) mint  $160.00 set
68-69 Dash Pad (mint, Gold)  $120.00
68-69 Top Fender Moldings (near windshield, mint)  $40.00 pr
68-72 Cutlass S LH Rear Side Glass (clear)  $35.00
Rear Window Molding Sets  $85.00 set
68 Cutlass/442 Std Horn Button (black, nice)  $7.00
68 Air Cleaner Stove Pipe (pipe only)  $10.00
68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $20.00 ea
68-72 Cowl mouldings  $25.00 ea
68-72 B-Pillar Molding Set (black, mint) $25.00 pr
68/69 442 Front Fender LH (need small patch)  $145.00

69 Cutlass/442
69 Lower Dash (radio area)  (nice)  $45.00
69 C/S Side Moldings  $20.00 ea
68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
68-69 LH Quarter Panel 4 door (mint)  $225.00
68-69 RH Quarter Panel 4 door (mint)  $225.00
68/69 SSII 14x6 Wheels (4) mint  $160.00 set
68-69 Dash Pad (mint, Gold)  $120.00
68-69 Top Fender Moldings (near windshield, mint)  $40.00 pr
69 Core Support (3 Row Radiator, nice)  $175.00
69 Cutlass Grilles (mint)  $200.00 pr
69 Headlight Housings  (mint)  $80.00 pr
69 Cutlass/442 Doors (mint pair)  $300.00 pr / $160.00 ea
442 Grilles (nice)  $180.00 pr
442 Hood Tongue  $35.00 ea
Hood Hinges  $50.00 pr
Hood Louver Chrome  $35.00 pr
Hood Louver Moldiings  $35.00 pr
Windshield Molding Sets  $65.00 set
Rear Window Molding Sets  $85.00 set
69-72 Floor Shift Steering Column (very good)  $100.00
69 Cutlass/442 Front Bumper (good cond) $100.00
69 LH Top Fender Moldings (excellent) $35.00
69 LH Fender (no rust holes)  $380.00
69 RH Fender (same)  $380.00
69 Rear Bumper (V05 rub strip) one small ding  $185.00
69 Front and Rear 4 Doors  (small dings, no rust) $75.00 ea
69 Tail Light Bezels  (mint)  $150.00 pr
69 4 Door Panels (Gold, cloth, nice)  $40.00 ea

70 Cutlass/442
70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switch Bezels  $5.00 ea
70 RH Sport Mirror Shell  $40.00
SSII Wheels (set of 4)  $160.00
70 F-85 Horn Button (cheap style wheel, excellent)  $10.00
70 Oldsmobile Options Folder  $5.00
70 C/S Wide side moldings  $20.00 ea
69-70 C/S Front Hood Rocket (nice)  $12.00
S Hood Chrome Vents  $35.00 pr
S Hood Vent Moldings  $35.00 pr
"S" Pillared Coupe Door Panels (good cond)  $40.00 pr
Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $90.00
Black A/C Dash Pads  $100.00 ea
Blue Auto Shift Console  $125.00 (w/shifter)
70-71 Glove Box Doors  $15.00 ea
70-72 RH Fender (needs patch panel)   $145.00
70 Cutlass 'S' Tail Light Lens   $10.00 ea
70-72 Cutlass S Vinyl Top rear moldings (few pits)  $8.00 pr
70 Cutlass Supreme Flat Hood   $125.00

71 Cutlass/442
71-72 10 Bolt 2.73:1 (open rear)  $75.00
71-72 Sport Mirrors (excellent cond)  $100.00 pr
SSII/III Wheels  (set of 4)  $160.00
71-72 Cutlass S/442 Hood Louvers (nice)  $35.00 pr
71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00
71 Front Rocket Emblem (nice)  $5.00

72 Cutlass/442
71-72 10 Bolt 2.73:1 (open rear)  $75.00
71-72 Sport Mirrors (excellent cond)  $100.00 pr
72 Cutlass/442 Owners Manual  $7.00
SSII/III Wheels (set of 4)  $160.00
72 Cutlass Supreme Side Moldings (excellent)  $110.00 set
71-72 Cutlass S/442 Hood Louvers (nice)  $35.00 pr
71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00

We are parting a complete 71 442 Coupe (455/TH400) if there is a part you
would like to get let us know. We'll be posting the rest of the parts later.
The reproduction 70-72 Cutlass/442 Auto Trans Console Indicators $24.00 ea.
plus $3.00 shipping. We have also reproduced the 63 Starfire console shift
lens $35.00 plus $3.00 shipping. We will soon have the 67-69 2 spd auto
shift lens $24.00. Looking for a decent 64-66 auto trans shift lens for
reference to reproduce.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts
OCA ª24275
67 442 W-30 Trac-Pac
67 Cutlass Supreme
'70 Cutlass SX W-32
'72 442 (350)
'94 Cutlass Supreme
'96 C-1500
Virginia  Beach, VA
(757) 474-0869

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 22:07:56 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Smog Adventure

My point in relaying this story for the most part (Dr. Bob) is that this
car seems to be one of those 'tight' ones, everything  works, works well
and has never been touched, disassembled, etc.  That just proves it was put
together right to begin with.

I have no desire to change a thing on it - I love taking it to shows &
having guys go "Gee, that's all original" LITERALLY.  Nah, it doesn't have
the original battery, or spark plug wires, but virtually everything else is
30 yrs. old & still works great.

Looking at keeping it this way to till.......? and never restoring unless I
come into big bucks (doubt theres a chance of that).


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '72 Vista Cruiser
, '69 Toronado

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 22:09:54 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: SB 42 & Calif Smog

Erick - we get regular updates via the internet - I'll have the other half
forward you the address to receive these if you wish.


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '72 Vista Cruiser
, '69 Toronado

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 00:12:03 -0500
From: "Charles F. Kemp" <bloom@gorilla.net>
Subject: Re: CHROME

At 03:08 PM 7/17/97 -0700, you wrote:
>Hi to all !! As the weather in my part of the country turns hotter everday,
>i find myself looking for parts and cars. I have located a very nice 66
>cutlass, appears rust free, and is mostly original. I am working on buying
>the car, hopefully in the next week,or so. I am also building up a stock of
>Olds, and other GM car bumpers. On hand at this time,replated, and looking
>very nice is a set of 1971 cutlass bumpers. Soon to be plated is a set of
>1970 cutlass bumpers. Coming soon, a set of 1967 F-85 front and rear, rear
>1967 Delta 88. If prices vary, it is because, some bumpers cost me a little
>more to buy, since i use different sources. Usually the price is $180.00 to
>$210.00 with  exchange. Add $30.00 for no exchange. The core exchange is
>good, since it keeps me in stock, and i can continue to keep the prices as
>low as i can. All plating is now triple plating, since i have started to
>use a shop, that dealt with strictly manufacturing parts, for use on this
>side of the border. Pot metal repair is more accessible now, and the work
>on potmetal is very, very good. Prices vary on potmetal, but are very
>reasonable, especially if i can take in a fairly large amount of parts, at
>one time. Turnaround time, is now guaranteed two weeks, since time of
>delivery to shop, (usually on wednesdays) includes pot metal turnaround
>time. For a few months, i was backlogged because of too much volume, and
>the lack of good help. I seem to have found a more responsible shop, that
>although i might pay a little more for the quality, and time span involved,
>it is still a good savings of at least 45%
>compared to other shops. Hope this post was informative for all interested,
>and i will continue to provide good service, with a full guarantee for all.
> sincerely   Mike Aldana     maldana@quix.net
>
>Mike Aldana
>417 Encinas Ave.
>Calexico Ca. 92231
>
>760-357-0713
>
>Other bumper cores available at this time are non Olds, and consist of
>1966 Lemans rear
>1969 GTO rear
>1960 impala rear and front 3-piece
>1965 comet front and rear
>1965 chevelle rear
>1968 impala rear 2 piece
>1969 buick front and rear
>Hello Mike,
  I am interested in finding both bumpers for a 1967 442. I saw in you ad you
had a set for a 1966 F-85. I'm thinking these would do fine if I could afford
them.Also, am looking for a hood for the '67 442.Thanks for any info.
Fred Kemp
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 00:55:35 -0500
From: dhamlett@mitec.net
Subject: Re: CHROME

Mike Aldana wrote:
>
> Hi to all !! As the weather in my part of the country turns hotter everday,
> i find myself looking for parts and cars. I have located a very nice 66
> cutlass, appears rust free, and is mostly original. I am working on buying
> the car, hopefully in the next week,or so. I am also building up a stock of
> Olds, and other GM car bumpers. On hand at this time,replated, and looking
> very nice is a set of 1971 cutlass bumpers. Soon to be plated is a set of
> 1970 cutlass bumpers. Coming soon, a set of 1967 F-85 front and rear, rear
> 1967 Delta 88. If prices vary, it is because, some bumpers cost me a little
> more to buy, since i use different sources. Usually the price is $180.00 to
> $210.00 with  exchange. Add $30.00 for no exchange. The core exchange is
> good, since it keeps me in stock, and i can continue to keep the prices as
> low as i can. All plating is now triple plating, since i have started to
> use a shop, that dealt with strictly manufacturing parts, for use on this
> side of the border. Pot metal repair is more accessible now, and the work
> on potmetal is very, very good. Prices vary on potmetal, but are very
> reasonable, especially if i can take in a fairly large amount of parts, at
> one time. Turnaround time, is now guaranteed two weeks, since time of
> delivery to shop, (usually on wednesdays) includes pot metal turnaround
> time. For a few months, i was backlogged because of too much volume, and
> the lack of good help. I seem to have found a more responsible shop, that
> although i might pay a little more for the quality, and time span involved,
> it is still a good savings of at least 45%
> compared to other shops. Hope this post was informative for all interested,
> and i will continue to provide good service, with a full guarantee for all.
>  sincerely   Mike Aldana     maldana@quix.net
>
> Mike Aldana
> 417 Encinas Ave.
> Calexico Ca. 92231
>
> 760-357-0713
>
> Other bumper cores available at this time are non Olds, and consist of
> 1966 Lemans rear
> 1969 GTO rear
> 1960 impala rear and front 3-piece
> 1965 comet front and rear
> 1965 chevelle rear
> 1968 impala rear 2 piece
> 1969 buick front and rear

You mentioned a 66, any good 66 bumpers?
- --

- -----------------------------------------
      Dan Hamlett
      1966 Cutlass Convertible
      1995 Cutlass Supreme SL
      mailto:dhamlett@mitec.net
      http://www.mitec.net/~dhamlett
- -----------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 08:58:17 -0400 (EDT)
From: Gail Adams <gadams@remc7.k12.mi.us>
Subject: parts needed;questions

 I have a 41 olds model 66 and have been having a bad time lately keeping
it on the road and feeling comfortable with it.  The brakes pull hard to
the left.  I replaced the wheel cylinders and bled the system (mostly new
fluid); read that, "I had it done at a service station.  End result: car
still pulls hard to the left.  After I got the car back from the shop, I
flushed radiator and changed hoses thinking maybe I would drive it and it
would clear itself up.  Took car for a test drive and guess what:
accellerate hard (read that as 6-cyl hydra-matic relatively "hard) and
gas pedal sticks momentarily and noise from under hood.  Diagnosos?
broken motor mounts.
Questions re: brakes.  might I have a brake hose collapsing?  Should I
replace the front ones?  The mechanic said that everything looks almost
new inside the wheels.  Where is the best place to get hoses for this car?
Questions re: motor mounts.  I believe that I have a broken front mount
as well as a broken trans. mount.  Where is the best place to get them.
Further info: I called Northwestern in Grand Rapids, Mich-nothing. They
usually have stuff like this.
I have owned this car since 1984 and it has been basically trouble free.
It is a great driving car, but I have driven it very little in the past 3
years.  Any suggestions?
Tom Adams-Grand Haven Mich

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 08:35:57 -0500
From: dhamlett@mitec.net
Subject: Re: CHROME

Charles F. Kemp wrote:> >Hello Mike,
>   I am interested in finding both bumpers for a 1967 442. I saw in you ad you
> had a set for a 1966 F-85. I'm thinking these would do fine if I could afford
> them.Also, am looking for a hood for the '67 442.Thanks for any info.
> Fred Kemp

66 bumpers are NOT the same as 67's, due to the headlights. Totally
different part ª as well.
- --

- -----------------------------------------
      Dan Hamlett
      1966 Cutlass Convertible
      1995 Cutlass Supreme SL
      mailto:dhamlett@mitec.net
      http://www.mitec.net/~dhamlett
- -----------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 09:34:12 -0400
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Rocker Arm Pedistals

At 09:23 PM 7/18/97 -0500, you wrote:
>> Can anyone tell me if the Rocker Arms Pedistals are truly a problem with
>> Olds'?  I am getting ready to build me a 350 and want to build it for
>> reliability.  I have been told they can break 2 weeks old or last
>> 300,000 miles.  What is the secret to making them last?
>
>As long as there is a good supply of oil coming from the pushrods and the
>rockers are correctly adjusted they will last a long time.

The one thing that they might suffer from are cracks in the aluminum. The
replacement pedestal/bridge setup I used in my 403 rebuild didn't have a
cast-aluminum bridge, but rather a steel strap which will bend rather than
break. The drawback with this setup is that it is not idiotproof in
installation: with the aluminum bridge, there is no way you can install it
with the rockers "twisted", whereas the steel bridge can be warped if, say,
you tightened one side all the way down before tightening the other, so that
the second rocker was cocked when you tightened it down (accidentally did
this replacing the head gasket in my 403 last week). Simple enough to fix:
just remove the bridge, and bend it back into shape with some pliers.

But in general, the steel bridge will bend, not crack, but if you use the
aluminum bridge, it will crack quite quickly if it has any flaws in it upon
installation, but last a long time before any new cracks develop.

Don't sweat them, though; fixing a broken pedestal is one of the easier
things you can do on your engine.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 09:34:15 -0400
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: '62 F-85 Parts

At 11:39 PM 7/18/97 -0300, you wrote:
>I am in need of some help. I need some parts for a '62 Olds F-85. I
>need the 2-brl carb rebuilt or a new direct replacement. If anyone
>has the four barrel manifold and carb for the '62 F-85 that might be
>an option.

Would the Olds 215 use the same intakes as the Buick 215? (I know the head
bolt patterns are different, but don't know about the intake manifold to
head bolt pattern). If so, then your best bet would probably be an
aftermarket unit made for the Buick/Rover 215. Plenty of parts for those
engines made over in Britain and Australia.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 09:34:19 -0400
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: '84 307 V8 locked up/ LeSabre Limited value

At 11:45 AM 7/18/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Well, I witnessed my first Olds engine failure. A good friend has a 1984
>Buick LeSabre Limited with Olds 307 V8 with 145,000 miles on it.  It ran
<snip>
>     Anyways, my question is - what is the best way to fix this?  The car
>is in good condition - a little rust but no holes.  Everything works (power
>seats, windows, mirrors, A/C, etc.)  It seams like it is worth fixing but
>should we replace with rebuilt 307, replace with used 350, replace with
>rebuilt 350.  I don't know what the car would be worth if it was fixed
>because of its age.  Anyone know what this is worth with good engine vs.
>bad engine?  Thanks

Bad engine= $0
Good engine= $500-$2500 (depending on condition, body style [2-door more
desireable], color, who's buying, etc.)

Replace it with a used (<100,000 miles) 350 long block, and keep her going
for another 100,000.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 09:37:16 -0400
From: "Gil Russell" <Russellg@dmv.com>
Subject: Carb ID Number

Can any one tell me if this is the right carb on my car.  I was inspecting
the carb today and found what look like hammer marks and cracks all over
it, it also looks like a few parts could be missing..  I have an 84
Hurst/olds w 307 the carb that is on the car has ID number 17084554 -
413HXU. Is the right carb for the vehicle?  If not does anybody know what
the right number is.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 09:50:04 -0400
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Carb ID Number

At 09:37 AM 7/19/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Can any one tell me if this is the right carb on my car.  I was inspecting
>the carb today and found what look like hammer marks and cracks all over
>it, it also looks like a few parts could be missing..  I have an 84
>Hurst/olds w 307 the carb that is on the car has ID number 17084554 -
>413HXU. Is the right carb for the vehicle?  If not does anybody know what
>the right number is.

It's the right year; I don't know if the big carb book lists applications
past '80. I'll have to check tonight.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 10:02:29 -0400
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: New Addition to the Family... ;-)

At 10:35 PM 7/18/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>> I'm pleased to announce the addition of another Oldsmobile to the
>> ranks... I bought the '78 Delta I mentioned here the other day. It's my
>> - Could use front tires
>>
>> Re. the tires, they are 235/70R15 all around right now. Are the originals
>> supposed to be 215/75R15?
>>
>I asked my father about
>the original tires on it, because he is the one I inherited it from.  It
>came from the factory with 225/75/15's on it, and he's never deviated
>from it.  When I replace the rubber on it, I plan on going with a set of
>235/60/15 Predators (Motomaster), which are a borderline high-perf

I've got 235/70's on my '78 Electra (big cousin of your 88's), and they are
about as low a profile I'd go in 15", unless you want that lowrider look. As
it is, these tires look almost lost in the wheelwells; the 60-series tires
would leave a lot of space in the wheelwell, and almost look too small. I'm
happy with the performance of mine.

>Some people have told me that they quit building the Rocket engines in
>75-76, and they were replaced with the "Rochester 350".  The two names
>sound too similar to be two different things.  What is the
>horsepower/torque rating for these engines?  I've heard everything from
>150 to 225hp, and 195-275 ft/lbs...please set me straight.

All Olds V-8's are "Rocket" motors; it's just a marketing label, it doesn't
have any technical meaning. I believe the rating was 170hp.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 10:18:59 -0400
From: uknowme <uknowme@mail.botanybay.net>
Subject: Size of orignal tires for 81 Cutlass Supreme

Hi all
I was wondering if anyone could tell me the original size of tires that
came on the 81 Cutlass Supreme??? I have put on 245 60 14 on it now and
I am wondering how this affects my speedo accuracy, I heard the formula
for calculating your speed with different tires is: original tire size
divided by new tire size X speed = actuaul speed is this true? I
wouldn't want any speeding tickets.
 THANKS
Tim
81 Cutlass Supreme (1/2 way done)
80 Mustang (the great winter beater)
80 Camaro (RIP)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 10:26:00 -0400
From: rudy442@juno.com (James A Ruddell)
Subject: Re: Wanted 68 442 parts....

On Wed, 16 Jul 97 07:41:40 -0600 "Stephen C. Chuck" <scc@teamquest.com>
writes:
>
>Hi guys!!
>    This is my first post to the group as I just purchased a 68
>cutlass
>convertible.  It's in pretty nice shape, but would like to make it
>look
>like a 442.  so, I am looking for the following:

Maybe it's just me, but my advice to you is, if you want a 442 go buy
one.  There are to many fakes already!  Your car can be worked to give
you the guts you want.  What a better sleeper than a rag-top Cutlass to
blow away Bow-Ties!  Style, comfort and power. What more can you ask for
in a car.

 Welcome to the Club!


 68 442 Holiday Coupe
James A Ruddell Jr.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 11:22:49 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Rocker Arm Pedistals

> >> Can anyone tell me if the Rocker Arms Pedistals are truly a problem with
> >> Olds'?

If they were, Old's wouldn't have used them for such a long time.  As
other's stated, they usually last a good long time.  Another thing to
keep in mind, is to tighten them down evenly, and if you are
milling/shimming the pedestal for preload, you want to avoid anything
more than a .020" difference for each side.  Over this amount could
cause severe side loading on the pedestal, resulting in rapid
wear/breakage.

2 more cents
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 11:29:49 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Carb ID Number

Gil Russell wrote:
> I have an 84
> Hurst/olds w 307 the carb that is on the car has ID number 17084554 -
> 413HXU. Is the right carb for the vehicle?  If not does anybody know what
> the right number is.

Yep, That's the one.  Standard equipment on the 84 H/O.  I have an 85
442 I bought new, and it also has the 17084554 carb, except the factory
stamped a "5" right over the first "4".  In actuality, they just carried
over the H/O stuff to the 85 442.  (Cheap &*%$ª*&ers.)

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 11:43:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: SAdelstein@aol.com
Subject: Re: Overheating!!!!

The problem you have sounds exactly like the problem I'm having with my 69
cutlass oldsmobile.  On a 90-100 degree day my temperature gauge shows the
temperature between 210-230 degrees and if I am in stop and go traffic for a
long period of time the temperature will go above 230 degrees.  I have
replaced the radiator, water pump, heater core, radiator and heater hoses,
and replaced my 160 thermostat with a stock 195 degree thermostat.  No matter
what I did the car continued to run this hot.  Also, I did put a new
temperature gauge and I tried four different fan clutches which were all
thermal and finally replaced it with a six blade flex fan.  No matter what I
changed the car kept running at these temperatures.  I have just learned to
live with these temperatures the car reaches.  It may be normal for my car
and your car also.  I hope this letter eases your mind a little bit.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 12:37:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: a few replies ala' digest

[my entries will be in brackets... Chris]

why are they called "spammers"?

[is that not from the Monty Python skit where all they served was Spam, spam,
and more spam? With Spam, of course. Evolved to mean unsolicited emails shot at
everybody who can be reached.]

 ----------
Subject: Engine buildup

Perhaps my emails are not getting through to the list...so I will try
this again.
I am starting to go through my '69 442's engine.  It is the original 400
w/ around 68,000 on it.  I just wondering if anyone has any suggestion
as to what is a practical order of things.  It is going to get a full
overhaul with some performance parts (carb, intake, headers) but not too
tricked out...if anyone has any info please mail me here and thanks in
advance!
Daniel R. Gerow

[OK, you have a 400 motor, then, right? Pistons are available, Brother's, about
$440 a set or so. Few other options with that block. Can you use the stock
bores & pistons? That'd save a bundle. I can help out a bit, email me privately
at wittchri@pilot.msu.edu for assistance. I have many extra parts, and a few
new specialty parts: oil pump drive rod in 4140 steel for instance.]

- ----------
What guage readings would indicate ideal / acceptable / poor
compression?

[been hashed to death here]

Does the compression ratio
have anything to do with the reading on the compression guage?
Curt Salada

[yes, the higher the CRatio, the higher you'd expect the compression gUage
reading to be.

- ----------
- --78 or so D88 1=>2 xst...

You said you still had the setup somewhere?  Excellent!  Now when you
say setup, do you mean you have the actual exhaust system, or just a
diagram?  If you could send me a copy of a diagram for it, I'd certainly
appreciate it.  If you still have the actual exh. system, and you have
no real use for it, lets talk $$$.

I'd like to use the exact setup you talked about, with a pair of Cherry
Bomb glasspacks, and a set of 3" chrome "boom tips".  I want a little
sound, can't you tell?
S. Dave Ward    (Peterborough, Ontario, CANADA)

[Dave, I believe the entire xst system got tossed into the car when the motor &
trans were extracted. Gee, it even has the g'packs & 3" tips on it. I thought
it was just too gauche for words, but if it turns your crank, it's up for
grabs. Will ck-see next farm trip if it's around yet. ]

- ----------------------
   1.   Is there any way to determine the compression ratio of the pistons?

[[Yes, there is. Measure the cc of the dish. If you do not have a cc plate,
etc., just measure the diameter and depth as accurately as you can- dial
calipers to +/-.002" or so would be great. Email me what you know then, and I
could estimate a CRatio of your engine. If you can measure the deck heights
(plural- they do vary bore to bore) also then we can be more precise. That
would be the distance that the piston top is recessed in the bore when at TDC.
Usually about 0.010-0.030"]]

   2.   Does the F marking on the pistons mean that they are forged,
or am I grasping for straws (I would like to be able to recycle the pistons
if possible to save $).

[[ F means Ford! Just kidding... As noted, F is for Front side. You can re-use
pistons often.. measure the ring side clearance- if excessive, or the grooves'
sides are worn with much of a step, you'll need to renew the ring grooves
(hardly ever worth it) or get new pistons. 455 and 350 pistons are pretty
cheap. ]]
- -------------------
[[ a guy was asking about Phoenix car contacts:
    Dick Bybee, RB Sales
    602-984-4442
I recommend him highly. The $1200- $4500 sounds about right. Get the catalogs,
add up the parts. Add that much again for machine & assembly costs... see what
you come up with for costs. This ain't Ch*vy-land, Toto.]]
- ---------------------------
The Toll free ª for ordering
this neat little resource is 1-800-557-3277.
Sears catalog thingie

[[ I just tried calling them... 7/19/97, 11:30 am Saturday.. they claimed that
their hours are 8a-9pm M-F, and 9a-5pm Saturday... yet the next message told
how the offices were currently "closed for the 4th of July weekend" Must be one
Hell of a party they hold for *Independence Day* as it's officially called.
Maybe later?]]

- ------------------------------------------
- --on the "rare find" car...
- -I could use an air cleaner and Rallye Pack. How much?
- -How much for the Manual trans? Is it a M21 or a M20?
- -etc. etc.

[[ OK, latest advice from the experts is that everything needs to be evaluated
carefully. I.e., '71 diffs were 10-bolts. However, this car was owned by a guy
with access to *experimental* intake, so I am assuming that there are jewels in
the rust. Need to check Transes, diff's, etc. for exact type & conditions.
Check engine ID for possible experimental origins...
  One feller offered the grand sum of $10-15 for a W30 air cleaner base. Sorry,
but for what this car is offered at, things will have to priced a little more
realistically. Last time I saw a 68-9 W30 air cleaner, it was more like $400.
Different animal, to be sure, but let's face it, $15 does not buy much in the
"original W30 parts" catalog anymore.
  Bottom line: I am lining up financing, will try to dicker the price down, and
will investigate further on conditions, etc. More as it develops. This weekend
however as the weather is nice will be spent on Toro work and parting the rusty
72 4-door that I still owe the guy for. btw, that perfect dash it has is
*brown* not gold like I originaly thought. ]]

- ------------------------------------------
should we replace with rebuilt 307, replace with used 350, replace with
rebuilt 350.  I don't know what the car would be worth if it was fixed
because of its age.  Anyone know what this is worth with good engine vs.
bad engine?  Thanks

[[ Well, depends on your budget, and what you can find. There's lots of "good
running" 350's around, but that's the seller's definition of "good running"
which in reality often means lifters sprang aprt, cracked heads, tuckered out
rings, no valve guides, burns oil like you own a refinery, etc. Any good small
block will do. Try to avoid the 403 prolly unless you want to do radiator
upgrades too. ]]

Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma Plant
Transmission Division (4T60/65-E) - Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com
The statements and opinions expressed here are NOT an official
statement of General Motors or the GM Powertrain Division

[[So, Steve, you DID see that part about how I am a degreed engineer looking
for a job, right? Hint, nudge, wink.  BTW, thanks to the folks who did
respond with a place to send job search info to...]]

- ------------------------------------------
- --headers variations--
I may be wrong, but I think the ceramic coating may provide a heat barrier
and also provide corrosion resistance.
Paul Pate

[[I wonder what becomes of this "ceramic" coating during the "adjustment"
process with the BFH?]]

- --
Chris  B. Witt
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª763
********************************
