To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #719


oldsmobile-digest           Sunday, 15 June 1997        Volume 01 : Number 719

Re: Chop shop blues
71 Cutlass Conv. for sale
Re: thermostat. cooling system
Admin
OLDS 403 Question?
Admin
Re: An Electrical Question
Re: B, O, or P 455? Which is better?
Re: An Electrical Question
Performance and carb blues!!!
Slow day?
Re: Slow day?
Re: Slow day?
Re: Performance and carb blues!!!
Re: Slow day?
Axle/Rear End swap.....
Re: Finally
Re: 8-Track Problem
Re: Slow day?
thermostat. cooling system
More Racing Champs & Johnny Lightning
Re: Opportunity
Re: Axle/Rear End swap.....
Re: Performance and carb blues!!!
Dist. Vacuum location question.
Re: Wardad DAY

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: PaulP34167@aol.com
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 1997 12:41:14 -0300
Subject: Re: Chop shop blues

In a message dated 97-06-14 03:27:12 EDT, you write:

> They assured me that
>  the quarter panels, trunk interior and frame can be straightened, in their
>  words "As good as new".

Sorry to hear about your situation.  It backs up what I have decided: If you
want something done right, do it yourself.  In this situation though, I'm
assuming that you don't have the equipment to do this.  What did you get in
writing?  If anything, be persistent.  Make them realise you will not go away
until they do what they said they would do.  The problem might be that they
do not have the experience to complete the repair and will not admit it.

If they will not cooperate, is legal action feasible?  You may just have to
find another shop to complete the repairs.

It is a shame that we have to deal with things like this.

Paul Pate
70 Cullass S

------------------------------

From: PaulP34167@aol.com
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 1997 12:45:40 -0300
Subject: 71 Cutlass Conv. for sale

Just listed in Southeast Texas newspaper:

71 Cutlass S convertible
excellent condition
$5800 or best offer
(409) 755-4312

Paul Pate
70 Cutlass S

------------------------------

From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 1997 12:14:49 -0300
Subject: Re: thermostat. cooling system

Valiant Mud's Lab wrote:
>
> hi i just read in a 73 oldsmobile bulletin that only "Dole"-type thermostat
> should be used on V8s from 1968 to 1973.
> Anybody knows about these thermostats? i tried to get one at my local
> oldsmobile dealer, but the part number he got refers to the type the
> bulletin says not to use on these engines. (!)
>
Yeah, there was an article in JWO about this sometime last year.  Those
thermostats aren't available anymore, and the standard thermostat you'll
get at any auto store doesn't flow as much coolant, which can result in
cooling problems for old Oldsmobiles.  A workable substitute is a
high-flow thermostat, Mr. Gasket and Robertshaw make them.  You can get
'em from most speed shops, and most mail-order speed shops.  While it
may not need it, I put a 180 high-flow on my '84 H/O and I'm very happy
with it.

Tom Lentz
tlentz@ior.com

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 1997 15:54:47 -0300
Subject: Admin

who oldsmobile

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 1997 13:28:58 -0300
Subject: OLDS 403 Question?

On Thu, 12 Jun 1997, Frank wrote:

>
> The 403 is a bored out 350 and any part that works on a smallblock olds
> will
Seriously??
I was always under the impression it was a down-stroked 455 in the same
block?  What gives?  (I could be wrong, it's happened, once when I
thought I was wrong and I wasn't)!

...............self-promo sig file Version 2.2...............
Eric Aksomitis:
Virtual Junkyard: Current count -> 5 vehicles
Oldsmobile Index: Current Count -> 8 vehicles
http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/       mailto:aksomi@cs.uregina.ca
Last update: 970504
..............................................................

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 1997 17:51:00 -0300
Subject: Admin

approve cutlass unsubscribe oldsmobile stmoore@nppd.com

------------------------------

From: Daren & Laurie <daren@revealed.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 1997 18:36:40 -0300
Subject: Re: An Electrical Question

I had the same problem with my 442 when the battery was getting weak. It
seemed like the starter solenoid was sticking. The whole electrical
system would go dead I would then reach under the car tap the starter a
couple times with a hammer until I could here a click from the solenoid.
A new battery solved this problem. You should get you battery load
tested after it's charged up to make sure the battery is the problem.

Daren

------------------------------

From: Daren & Laurie <daren@revealed.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 1997 19:28:25 -0300
Subject: Re: B, O, or P 455? Which is better?

> If going fast inexpensively is your goal, you can't
> really beat a Chevy.
> Like Dave said for HP Per $ the chevy is hard to beat. I love my Olds and
> think that Oldsmobile made some of the coolest cars to ever hit the
> streets...... but I dont think I could ever get 12.52 @107  in a 3600 lb
> car on street tires for less than $2000 with anything but a Chevy. And it
> is set to shift at 6000 rpm ( at wot) so it has ran for over 3 years
> without even having a valve cover off. But it isnt a 454, its a little
> small block. Oh thats without NOS. With the juice on for the second half of
> the track it ran 11.93  @ 120 with my 17 year old driving it.
> Walter
> 66 Delta 88
> 56 Belair
> and several others

It depends on how you look at it. You can go to a junk yard pick up an
Olds engine for less than $100 to get a Chevy block thats as structurely
as strong you'll have to buy an after market block $500-$1000. Chevy's
have a poor rod angle so your looking at $300-$800 in parts and machine
work to bring the Chevy up to Olds standards. The up front cost are
lower for a Chevy but more times than not it wont last as long as an
Olds and will need more machine work when it comes time for a rebuild
because Chevy engines are not as durable as Olds engines. So it depends
on when you want to spend your money. I'd rather spend a little more
money now. I've only owned 6 vehicles and only one has been Chevy
powered ('89 GMC C1500) and it's motor is by far the worst. Only 2 of my
cars have had less miles. I'm not saying this to insult any body but, I
think the reason why magazines have so many articles on how to rebuild a
Chevy is because if your stupid enough to buy one then you probable
can't remember how to rebuild the engine when it comes time for the
bi-monthly rebuild. Like I said I own one (basically).

Daren

P.S. I have a 425 that cost me $1350 and according to Dick Miller and
Drag Strip Plus will run very low 12s in a 4100 lb. car! Somebody I work
with is giving me a '73 Nova which is going to get this motor instead of
the Dynamic so I should have no problems running 11s since this car is
almost 1000 lbs. lighter. Now I just got to find a Omega front end.

------------------------------

From: "LCPL JACKS AIMD/IMO3  X7402" <j3910@boxer.navy.mil>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 1997 22:19:19 -0300
Subject: Re: An Electrical Question

> I had the same problem with my 442 when the battery was getting weak. It
> seemed like the starter solenoid was sticking. The whole electrical
> system would go dead I would then reach under the car tap the starter a
> couple times with a hammer until I could here a click from the solenoid.
> A new battery solved this problem. You should get you battery load
> tested after it's charged up to make sure the battery is the problem.
>
> Daren

Hey Daren,

  Not to bust any balls around here, but unless you were doing a cold
start on the car the problem is actually heat related. The GMs of the
muscle car era were prone to starter problems due to the extreme heat
of the really close exhaust. A new starter and heat shield will help,
as well as using insulating wrap on the exhaust around that point. I
had the similar problems after I pulled a few tricks on the starter.
A new one did me wonders. Just my wisdow from experience, trials, and
other people who spread the word!

Ben
62 olds f-85
68 olds 442

------------------------------

From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 1997 20:33:56 -0300
Subject: Performance and carb blues!!!

Well, I thought today I'd take the high road, so I got my carb rebuilt up
the strreet from me, here's the whole story, maybe someone can help.

Friday: Morning:  Put a new carb on, and the car ran OK, but under heavy
torque acceleration, it sputttered and just didn't have 455 power.
Evening:  Replaced fuel filter, no power change, but a couple
miles later it started that wonderful trick of dumping unreal amounts of
fuel at idle, making me have to rev it up and belch out black smoke till
I got it onto the highway.

Saturday: Morning -   took carb off and got a kit installed up the street
at a reputable garage (no prior complaints!)
  Afternoon - Put carb on, and started it, it run's and souns
good, no problems there.  Then I revved it up just parked to see what
happened, it runs good and all but the four-barrels DON'T BUDGE, and they
used to!  So I took it out, and it starts, idles and runs good.  On
gravel with a bit of gas it sounds OK, but on pavement with some traction
it just doesn't run, no matter how you try to take off, or from what speed!

The four-barrels should wiggle if you rev it parked, right?

BTW, the advance is running off the top-front of the carb.

Any answers, additions, or what?  Is there something inside the carb that
can cause these dead four-barrels?  Please lend me a hand (or another
olds if you're so inclined, I could always use 2)

...............self-promo sig file Version 2.2...............
Eric Aksomitis:
Virtual Junkyard: Current count -> 5 vehicles
Oldsmobile Index: Current Count -> 8 vehicles
http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/       mailto:aksomi@cs.uregina.ca
Last update: 970504
..............................................................

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 1997 19:06:45 -0300
Subject: Slow day?

Wow,

No mail today at all?

Is something wrong?

Did I get booted?

Is anybody out there?

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

From: Richard Staley <rstaley@fastlane.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 1997 23:12:59 -0300
Subject: Re: Slow day?

Paul Hartlieb wrote:
>
> Wow,
>
> No mail today at all?
>
> Is something wrong?
>
> Did I get booted?
>
> Is anybody out there?
>
> Paul
> --
> Paul Hartlieb
> plh@nbn.net
> '67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
> '72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible


  Just me and my OLDS

  RS
'70 442 4-speed W-25

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 1997 23:46:22 -0300
Subject: Re: Slow day?

At 11:12 PM 6/14/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Paul Hartlieb wrote:
>>
>> Wow,
>>
>> No mail today at all?
>>
>> Is something wrong?
>>
>> Did I get booted?
>>
>> Is anybody out there?
>>
>> Paul
>> --
>> Paul Hartlieb
>> plh@nbn.net
>> '67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
>> '72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
>
>
>  Just me and my OLDS
>
>  RS
>'70 442 4-speed W-25
>

Hey guys,

        It must be because Greg was down here drooling over the neat
Oldsmobiles in my neck of the woods. We had a blast making the rounds today.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 1997 23:44:10 -0300
Subject: Re: Performance and carb blues!!!

At 08:33 PM 6/14/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Saturday: Morning -   took carb off and got a kit installed up the street
>at a reputable garage (no prior complaints!)
>  Afternoon - Put carb on, and started it, it run's and souns
>good, no problems there.  Then I revved it up just parked to see what
>happened, it runs good and all but the four-barrels DON'T BUDGE, and they
>used to!  So I took it out, and it starts, idles and runs good.  On
>gravel with a bit of gas it sounds OK, but on pavement with some traction
>it just doesn't run, no matter how you try to take off, or from what speed!
>
>The four-barrels should wiggle if you rev it parked, right?
>
>BTW, the advance is running off the top-front of the carb.
>
>Any answers, additions, or what?  Is there something inside the carb that
>can cause these dead four-barrels?  Please lend me a hand (or another
>olds if you're so inclined, I could always use 2)
>
>...............self-promo sig file Version 2.2...............
>Eric Aksomitis:

Eric

        The vacuum for the distributor should be hooked up to a temperature
sensitive ported vacuum switch on the passenger side of the intake. Use the
top port of the switch  and the supply is on the bottom. The other one is
suppose to go to the air cleaner. If you hook up the dist to constant vacuum
it will not run as it should normally. The other problem sound like the
float is stuck or is set too high. As for the secondaries not opening it
sounds like the vacuum tensioning spring is set too tight. You don't need to
run that. I open the diapham up and block the port which normally supplies
vacuum to it. This will bring the secondaries in much quicker. Small blocks
don't like this as much, but big blocks respond well to it. Hope this gets
you going in the right direction.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 1997 00:06:46 -0300
Subject: Re: Slow day?

Paul Hartlieb wrote:
>
> Wow,
>
> No mail today at all?
>
> Is something wrong?
>
> Did I get booted?
>
> Is anybody out there?
>
> Paul
> --
> Paul Hartlieb
> plh@nbn.net
> '67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
> '72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

Weather must be nicer elsewhere.  Not much mail today apparently.

Don Sowers
dstaxpro@lex.infi.net

------------------------------

From: CRuper1@aol.com
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 1997 00:11:34 -0300
Subject: Axle/Rear End swap.....

OK, I've spotted a rear end at the yard, and I've got a few questions for you
guys out there.  I've got an '81 Cutlass, and I've found an axle that's been
marked as '78 Cutlass (10 bolt).  The numbers on it say CF (3.08:1 and
anti-spin, right?).  I turned the drive shaft and both axles turned in the
same direction (this correct for an anti-spin?).

Now the questions.  Is this a direct swap?  I'd of course hope I can just
drop the old axle, and bolt up the new (replacement), while of course hoping
not to screw up all the brake fittings, etc.  Next thing, the guy said $200
for the whole thing (asked if it was a posi, and said they opened them up to
check, ugghhh...).  This has gotta be a halfway decent price, right?  I'm
sure gears alone for the anti-spin aren't cheap.

Thanks,
Chris Ruper

------------------------------

From: Pat McDermott <kor@thepoint.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 1997 00:27:23 -0300
Subject: Re: Finally

Peter L. House wrote:
>
> Hi, fellow Olds lovers. I finally got my 15x7 chrome rim from the
> dealer, it looks real good. It shines real bright froma distance,
> but when you get up real close with a flashlight it looks kinda
> sandy deep inside the chrome. I used some chrome cleaner and it
> cleaned up some of the marks that probably got there from sitting
> in some stock room somewhere. The caps where perfect, and the guy
> at the counter said that there was not a problem in getting more
> caps...
>
> Peter L. House
> '87 Salon
> phouse@feith.com

What Kind of CAPS and how much$ ???

Pat McDermott
69 Cutlass 'S'

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 1997 01:09:15 -0300
Subject: Re: 8-Track Problem

Paul wrote in his epistle;

>  I recently installed an NOS 8-Track player in my '67 Ninety Eight.

>  couple of years ago.  I works perfectly in the 8-Track in my Cutlass,
>  but when I use it in my Ninety Eight I get a noise that I can only
>  describe as a thumping, like a helicopter.

 I am going to guess that your thumping is actually a kind of speaker "pop."
I am further going to guess that the pops occur at regular intervals. Am I
close?

I had a problem like this with a low-end stereo cassette deck some 15 years
ago. Some tapes would play fine, but other tapes would go
"pop"....."pop"....."pop"...
I eventually "solved" the problem by buying a new deck ;)  [incidentally it
was a sweet deal..150 clams for a loaded Proton deck with outo reverse from
Crutchfield].

But seriously now, I believe that what you need to do is perform whatever
tasks are required to insure complete cleaning of the 8 track player in the
98 (98 track?). I further believe that this cleaning should be followed with
head demagnetization. At least that is what I would prescribe for a cassette
deck, I honestly do not know about 8-track innards. When last I looked, the
head demagnetizers for cassette decks (I presume you can use the same one)
went for about $15. (Radio Shack)

hope I helped...


In a message dated 97-06-03 21:41:25 EDT, KarlAunan writes:


  Karl Aune
  1965 Dynamic 88
  Chicago, IL
 Member, OCA

  http://members.aol.com/KarlAunan/index.html

Joke; I adjusted the idle mixture on my carburetor today (Olds related). I
did this because I realized one possible reason why I have been getting
crummy mileage. When tuning, I definitely turned the screws in _much_ farther
than I unscrewed them. The punch line is that I rebuilt the carburetor in
November, but never thought to adjust the mix.....

Eventually Getting Results?



------------------------------

From: "Jon" <latvis@globalserve.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 1997 01:31:27 -0300
Subject: Re: Slow day?

I was starting to wonder that myself.

Jon Gulbis
'85 Cutlass Supreme

- ----------
> From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Slow day?
> Date: sestdiena, 1997. gada 14. j=FBnijs 18:06
>=20
> Wow,
>=20
> No mail today at all?
>=20
> Is something wrong?
>=20
> Did I get booted?
>=20
> Is anybody out there?
>=20
> Paul
> --=20
> Paul Hartlieb
> plh@nbn.net
> '67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
> '72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
>=20

------------------------------

From: dfsval@maracaibo.dowell.slb.com (Valiant  Mud's Lab)
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 1997 03:42:53 -0300
Subject: thermostat. cooling system

hi i just read in a 73 oldsmobile bulletin that only "Dole"-type thermostat
should be used on V8s from 1968 to 1973.
Anybody knows about these thermostats? i tried to get one at my local
oldsmobile dealer, but the part number he got refers to the type the
bulletin says not to use on these engines. (!)

Thanks

alain lachatre

back from vacation

------------------------------

From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 1997 09:49:43 -0300
Subject: More Racing Champs & Johnny Lightning

Hit Wal-Mart last night and found some more cars.
I've now found the Racing Champs Hot Rod series in three colors; orange,
green and blue (series 14, 9 and 4).
As for the Johnny Lightning, I found one from their 1996 "Commemorative
Limited Edition" that's a "Custom Toronado".  The front end detail is
poor, but my guess is it's supposed to be a '70.  Rear end looks good
and the car has the cool louvers below the rear window.
- --
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

------------------------------

From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 1997 09:32:33 -0300
Subject: Re: Opportunity

Hi all,

Well I have an opportunity to purchase a 68 442 hardtop.  The car is
in "2" condition.  It has some body damage and a little rust.  Still
some good usable parts.  Front bench seat needs some work.  It has
a/c, disc brakes, electric windows, sports mirror, trumpet tips, all
of its emblems, and still a lot more.  I was thinking of buying it for
spare parts for my current 442.  What does anyone think about a price
for it.  It still runs.

Let me know quick....

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

From: "Jason Adcock" <adcockjk@erols.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 1997 11:26:52 -0300
Subject: Re: Axle/Rear End swap.....

Chris, that sounds about right on target.  I bought an anit-spin axle for
$250 out of a 1984 Gr*nd Pr*x and it just swapped right in.  The dimensions
were exactly the same.  I don't know about a '78 axle, though.  I thought
that 1978-1980 cars were exactly the same and 1981-1988 cars were the same.
 Mine worked because it was the same year.  I don't know if the 78 will fit
in to your 81.

+------------------------------------------------+

 Jason Adcock
 OCA ª028044
 adcockjk@erols.com

 1984 Cutlass Calais RWD V8
 75K Miles, CC1, F41, LV2, N66
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason/cutlass.html
 Also viewable through http://www.442.com

+------------------------------------------------+

- ----------
> From: CRuper1@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Axle/Rear End swap.....
> Date: Saturday, June 14, 1997 11:11 PM
>
> OK, I've spotted a rear end at the yard, and I've got a few questions for
you
> guys out there.  I've got an '81 Cutlass, and I've found an axle that's
been
> marked as '78 Cutlass (10 bolt).  The numbers on it say CF (3.08:1 and
> anti-spin, right?).  I turned the drive shaft and both axles turned in
the
> same direction (this correct for an anti-spin?).
>
> Now the questions.  Is this a direct swap?  I'd of course hope I can just
> drop the old axle, and bolt up the new (replacement), while of course
hoping
> not to screw up all the brake fittings, etc.  Next thing, the guy said
$200
> for the whole thing (asked if it was a posi, and said they opened them up
to
> check, ugghhh...).  This has gotta be a halfway decent price, right?  I'm
> sure gears alone for the anti-spin aren't cheap.
>
> Thanks,
> Chris Ruper
>

------------------------------

From: "MROTHE" <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 1997 12:02:39 -0300
Subject: Re: Performance and carb blues!!!

> Evening:  Replaced fuel filter, no power change, but a couple
> miles later it started that wonderful trick of dumping unreal amounts of
> fuel at idle, making me have to rev it up and belch out black smoke till
> I got it onto the highway.
>
Sounds like the float is acting up.  If it is brass....it could have a
hole.  Those nitrile foam-like ones have been known to absorb gas before
too. But since it was rebuilt after this, you should be OK.


>   Afternoon - Put carb on, and started it, it run's and souns
> good, no problems there.  Then I revved it up just parked to see what
> happened, it runs good and all but the four-barrels DON'T BUDGE, and they

> used to!  So I took it out, and it starts, idles and runs goodwhat speed!
>
I assume you mean the back barrels not budging.  Spring wrap on the air
doors may not be allowing them to open soon enough.  There is a little hex
head lock screw and a slotted screw on the end that adjusts spring wrap.
To adjust spring wrap, you typically loosen this hex screw while holding
the slot screw stationary with a small screwdriver.  Then back off the
spring tension until the air doors open.  Then, start to slowly turn the
adjuster clockwise until the air doors JUST close, then another 1/4 to 1/2
turn more, then tighten lock screw.  Consult the service manual for correct
settings.  DO NOT TIGHTEN SPRING MORE THAN ONE FULL TURN PAST THE POINT OF
THE AIR DOORS JUST CLOSING.  You could damage the spring.


> The four-barrels should wiggle if you rev it parked, right?

The engine usually needs to be under load for this to occur normally.  You
could get them to "start to come on" in Park, but that's a lot of
revs.....Check the service manual specs here again for the correct position
of the secondary air flapper lock out lever.  If it is out of position or
bent, it may not allow the air doors to open properly.

>
> BTW, the advance is running off the top-front of the carb.
>

On this car, I believe you should have it running from a thermostatic
ported vacuum switch at the front of the manifold.  In the current position
though, I believe it is in a place where you have ported manifold vacuum.
This should get you by, but check to make sure it is not hooked to a
constant vacuum source.

I hope this helps,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: John Oder <jaoder@navix.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 1997 12:23:03 -0300
Subject: Dist. Vacuum location question.

Hi all,

I was reading a couple of messages where people were saying to hood the
dist. vacumm up to the thermostatic vacuum switch on the manifold.  I am
wonder why this should be done, I am more familar with big block mopars
and I allways ran manifold vacuum to the advance on the dist. and never
had any problems.  I have installed a Holley 3310 on my 455 SX until
such time as I get the stock carb redone and I am running full vacuum on
it and it seems to run fine, but if it should be changed I will do it.

Thanks

John Oder
70 Cutlass SX W-32
70 Cuda 383 Conv.
73 Dodge Challenger 360 Rallye

------------------------------

From: Kevin O'Brien <obrienk@sunynassau.edu>
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 1997 15:09:21 -0300
Subject: Re: Wardad DAY

Sooooo.......loks like a nice day!
Kevin wants me to help him fix a car.
I plan to help you with your ditto etc!
The boys said they would plant the new shrubs.
That's it for now
BCNU
Wardad

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª719
********************************
