To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #718


oldsmobile-digest          Saturday, 14 June 1997       Volume 01 : Number 718

Re: Service manual needeed
Re: can't get valve cover off.
Re: August Oldsmobile Meeting -- Non Olds Aspect
Re: looking for parts
Re: 1984 Olds 307 4bbl
Re: HIGH HC's
RE: Hyundai vs. Olds
Re: Putting in speakers
Re[2]: Hall's Salvage Number/Headers
Re: Putting in speakers
1984 Cutlass Ciera Convertible
Re: Re[2]: Hall's Salvage Number/Headers
Re[4]: Hall's Salvage Number/Headers
Re: Back In A Week
Re: Control arm blues
Re: Re[2]: Hall's Salvage Number/Headers
Re: Back In A Week
Olds Events Nationwide (Was Olds Events in MD)
glove box problem
Re: K - code Oldsmobile???
Re: Hall's Salvage Number/Headers
Re: can't get valve cover off.
Re: Hall's Salvage Number/Headers
Re: Remove me from this list
Re: Remove me from this list
[none]
[none]
Re: Back In A Week
Re: No Subject
Re: Attention 1964 98 fans
Anyone got an 8-track for sale?
Re: Control arm blues
Re: Control arm blues
Re: Remove me from this list
Re: Control arm blues
Re: R-12 Pressure
Chop shop blues
Re: B, O, or P 455? Which is better?
Re: Deep Direct Drum?
8-Track Problem
Re: B, O, or P 455? Which is better?
Friday the 13th(Alternator 3rd Strike)
Re: Aug Olds Meet -- More Non Olds Aspect
An Electrical Question
Re: can't get valve cover off.
Re: Back In A Week
Re: Chop shop blues
Re: Back In A Week
Clock help
Re: Control arm blues
Re: Oldsmobile Events
Re:
Re: B, O, or P 455? Which is better?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: mefco@sprynet.com
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 09:59:55 -0300
Subject: Re: Service manual needeed

Mikko,
I tried to send to you Email, and it came back as undeliverable. I have a 63
shop manual, please Email me at my address.

Art Fuller
mefco@sprynet.com

------------------------------

From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 09:57:37 -0300
Subject: Re: can't get valve cover off.

is it possible that you could pull the motor mount bolt and raise the motor
enough for the valve cover to clear?   Just a toss, hope it helps...

------------------------------

From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 10:27:11 -0300
Subject: Re: August Oldsmobile Meeting -- Non Olds Aspect

Brad Was Quick to Say:

>  Wrong-O!! you New England Home-Boy!!  Hampton Beach is located on the
> shore in the town of Hampton,NH., not Seabrook. But nice try anyway.
> Most of the time you have very accurate info!! ;)

Don't be too hasty with your verdict, CT boy.  I'm under the impression
that Hampton (and Hampton Beach) are sections of Seabrook.  I will verify
this on the map.

In any event, all the beaches mentioned have nice vistas of the Seabrook
Nuclear powerplant... and are also close to two of the top 10 cities in
the country to live in -- Nashua NH is ª1?!?!? :)

Well, there's that monthly antique auto flea in Amherst, NH, just a couple
of miles from Nashua, so mebbe they're onto something... ;)



Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 10:38:35 -0300
Subject: Re: looking for parts

> Hey all, hope you can help.  I'm looking for a right fender, right
> quarter, right door, rocker panel, quarter window, and all the trim for
> the right side of my 67' Cutlass.  I've been searching for a while and
> have come up empty handed.  Guess i'm just looking in the wrong places.
> I would greatly appreciate any leads to these parts.  Thanks.

Chad,

Talk to Bill LaPierre, in Somers, CT.  He specializes in 66-67 Cultii/442
stuff.  Has a lot of trim pieces for 67s; I know, I picked some up from
him a couple of months ago :)  He also has glass, doors, etc.
Real nice guy, knows his stuff, too.

His e-mail address is blap@snet.net, or you can call him at
(860) 763 - 3134.



Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: PaulP34167@aol.com
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 10:12:09 -0300
Subject: Re: 1984 Olds 307 4bbl

In a message dated 97-06-12 20:26:37 EDT, you write:

> I am not sure but earlier smog carbs had the idle screws underneath
>  metal plugs.

Correct.  Rebuild kits and shop manuals have detailed instructions on how to
remove these plugs and adjust the mixture.

Remember that the mixture on this carb is mainly controlled by the mixture
control solenoid.  Any change in the needles may have adverse effects.

Paul Pate
70 Cutlass S

------------------------------

From: PaulP34167@aol.com
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 10:19:22 -0300
Subject: Re: HIGH HC's

In a message dated 97-06-12 21:13:34 EDT, you write:

>    Unfortunatly i have yet to have the chance to fiddle with a computer
>  controlled car but i have been told that the timing is adjustable on the
>  middle to early 80's GM vehicles -- it had something to do with resetting
> the
>  timing then stopping the engine and disconnecting the negative battery
>  terminal for about 30 seconds to a minute and then  reconnecting it --
>  starting the engine again checking the timing and then resetting the
timing
>  to your desired settings.   If there is anybody out there who has had
>  experience with this procedure i would love to hear and learn more about
it.
>

Setting the timing on a early computer controlled car is very similar to
setting it on a non-computer controlled car.  You simply disconnect the wire
that provides the computer advance (similar to vacuum advance) and then move
the distributer to adjust the timing.  Thats it!

Paul Pate
70 Cutlass S

------------------------------

From: "SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK" <FBS3@OAS.PSU.EDU>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 11:31:11 -0300
Subject: RE: Hyundai vs. Olds

Ron- I hate to tell you this, but I believe that according to the Kelly
Blue Book, your Olds is totalled too like the Hyundai. $1200 of damage is more
then the 2/3 ofthe value rendering it a 'total'
Unless (I hope) you have classic type stated value insurance, then all bets
are off:-)





=============================================================================
Frank.. 90 Cutlass Ciera XC Special Edition..one of 955.. White/red sedan..
        K&N, Walker Dynomax exhaust....(driver)
        65 El Camino..327/300, black/red..frame off resto..(cruiser, show car)
        95 Plymouth Neon HL sedan..dohc muffler..K&N drop in..(wifes car)
        95 Dodge Ram 2500hd 4x4..v-10..(company truck)
=============================================================================

------------------------------

From: Adam <awerthmi@freenet.npiec.on.ca>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 11:34:30 -0300
Subject: Re: Putting in speakers

On Thu, 12 Jun 1997, Jon wrote:

> Greetings!
>
> I did the exact same thing with my '85 Cutlass Supreme (Plus an Alpine
> deck, 380 watt 4 channel amp and subwoofer).
>
> Installing the speakers is easy.  You can buy plastic adapters at a car
> audio shop designed specifically for this purpose.  They have screw holes
> on top that line up with your old 4x8 screw holes on your rear deck behind
> the back seat, and on the bottom they have holes that line up with your new
> 6x9s.

The original openings are 4X10's... I've put a pioneer 6200 deck/cd
changer, amp, subwoofer etc in my 78 Cutlass Supreme and I used Clarion
4X10's instead of going with 6X9's.. they sound great.  If anyone is
interested, I'll get the model number and post it.

Adam

------------------------------

From: pteubel@imail.safety1st.com (Peter Teubel)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 12:11:01 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Hall's Salvage Number/Headers

     That's SOP around here (NE region).  Usually $2-$5 just to enter the
     yard.  Of course, anything that fits in your pockets is called
     "pocket-fodder"...8^)

     - Pete
     '51 98
     '82 98
     '86 Ciera

______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Re: Hall's Salvage Number/Headers
Author:  Robert Barry <RBarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU> at imail Date:
6/13/97 2:03 AM

>I finally wrote down some of the info from the Olds' at a salvage yard near
>my house. It does cost a $1 to get in, and I doubt they'll let me in for
                   ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

     Hmmm, that's novel; kind of like an amusement park? Are you then
     allowed to keep whatever fits in your pockets? ;)

------------------------------

From: "Jon" <latvis@globalserve.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 12:14:28 -0300
Subject: Re: Putting in speakers

Yeah I know the correct size, sorry, I was typing faster than I was
thinking.

- ----------
> From: Adam <awerthmi@freenet.npiec.on.ca>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Putting in speakers
> Date: piektdiena, 1997. gada 13. j=FBnijs 10:34
>=20
> On Thu, 12 Jun 1997, Jon wrote:
>=20
> > Greetings!
> >=20
> > I did the exact same thing with my '85 Cutlass Supreme (Plus an Alpin=
e
> > deck, 380 watt 4 channel amp and subwoofer).
> >=20
> > Installing the speakers is easy.  You can buy plastic adapters at a c=
ar
> > audio shop designed specifically for this purpose.  They have screw
holes
> > on top that line up with your old 4x8 screw holes on your rear deck
behind
> > the back seat, and on the bottom they have holes that line up with yo=
ur
new
> > 6x9s.
>=20
> The original openings are 4X10's... I've put a pioneer 6200 deck/cd
> changer, amp, subwoofer etc in my 78 Cutlass Supreme and I used Clarion
> 4X10's instead of going with 6X9's.. they sound great.  If anyone is
> interested, I'll get the model number and post it.
>=20
> Adam
>=20
>=20
>=20

------------------------------

From: "Wayne L. Craven" <wlcsales@tir.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 12:39:21 -0300
Subject: 1984 Cutlass Ciera Convertible

I purchased a 1984 Cutlass Ciera Brougham Convertible in 1989 from a dealer
in VA. I believe only a few were converted by a company called Hess &
Eisenhardt located in Cincinnati, OH. but not sure of the correct number or
years made.

I must say, mine is in excellent condition and only driven on sunny days
and warm nights.

In my travels I have only seen a couple and  heard of about 4 or 5 more in
existences. I'm sure there are more and would like to contact anyone that
may have information about this auto.

I am also looking for (3) Limited Editions Emblems that I understand were
added to the car at time of conversion.

Please contact:

Wayne Craven @ 810 230-7428

Thank You.

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <RBarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 12:38:38 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Hall's Salvage Number/Headers

At 11:11 AM 6/13/97 -0400, you wrote:
>     That's SOP around here (NE region).  Usually $2-$5 just to enter the
                              ^^
I'm sorry, is that Nebraska or New England you're talking about?

>     yard.  Of course, anything that fits in your pockets is called
>     "pocket-fodder"...8^)

heh... Most places in the bigger cities I've lived in (Boston, NY) don't
even let you in to look at the cars; you go up to the counter, ask for a
part, they check their computer, and then get it for you. If it's not in the
computer, they don't have it. They tend to cater to the late-model,
collision-replacement customer, and are less tolerant of requests for minor
trim items.

Here in RI, however, things are a little more laid-back, and I know of a few
yards I can wander, but never with a charge.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: pteubel@imail.safety1st.com (Peter Teubel)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 13:01:44 -0300
Subject: Re[4]: Hall's Salvage Number/Headers

     NE is for New England.  Keep in mind, the ONLY yards I go to are the
     "U-Pull-It" type places.  Flat-rate pricing is the main draw there.
     Plus, I usually pick up many more parts than I originally came for.

     So you're from RI, eh?  Any good "pick-a-part" 'yards that you can
     recommend?  I usually frequent Millis Used (Millis, MA), Jack's and
     Holland's (Both in Billerica, MA).

     - Pete
     Milford, MA
     '51 98
     '82 98
     '86 Ciera



______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Re: Re[2]: Hall's Salvage
Number/Headers Author:  Robert Barry <RBarry@SEQUENT1.PROVIDENCE.EDU> at imail
Date:    6/13/97 12:38 PM


At 11:11 AM 6/13/97 -0400, you wrote:
>     That's SOP around here (NE region).  Usually $2-$5 just to enter the
                              ^^
I'm sorry, is that Nebraska or New England you're talking about?

>     yard.  Of course, anything that fits in your pockets is called
>     "pocket-fodder"...8^)

heh... Most places in the bigger cities I've lived in (Boston, NY) don't even
let you in to look at the cars; you go up to the counter, ask for a part,
they check their computer, and then get it for you. If it's not in the
computer, they don't have it. They tend to cater to the late-model,
collision-replacement customer, and are less tolerant of requests for minor
trim items.

Here in RI, however, things are a little more laid-back, and I know of a few
yards I can wander, but never with a charge.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918



------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 08:04:19 -0300
Subject: Re: Back In A Week

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>
> Gang,
>
> I'm heading out for a week in Williamsburg, Va., at a conference.
> Arriving there tonight and hooking up with Jim Chermack and others on the
> list who are in the area on Saturday. Jim promises a day of Olds-related
> activity...
>
>
> Unsubscribing now to save my in-box, will catch up on digests when I
> return. So long!
>
> Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada

Greg,

Good luck.  You'll love it in civilization (Confererate States of
America).

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 11:13:13 -0300
Subject: Re: Control arm blues

> >Just beware these parts have a
> >service
> >life somewhere short of 200,000 miles.
>
> I didn't know that...and my Cutlass just turned over 204,000 miles.

Cool, I've got a good 80,000 to go until I need to worry :)
>
> >From someone who's been there (sucks to lose a ball joint while
> >driving..)

Yeah, I've been there, at 60 on the highway.  Luckily it wasn't in the Olds.
It was in the Fiat I mentioned in an earlier post.  *Before* I put the
roll bar in (the incident was one of the main impeti for installing it :) ).
Was driving along in the left lane, until I was  suddenlybeing forced into
the center guardrail :P  Was *very* lucky the damage was minimal.

In fact, tomorrow'll be the 12th anniversary of that event.  It was a Friday,
and my GF at the time and I had just broken up the day before, rather on
a bad note too.  It made for an ignominious start to what actually turned
out to be a good weekend :)

PS  Anybody going to Loudon for Bike Weekend?



Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 12:49:53 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Hall's Salvage Number/Headers

>      That's SOP around here (NE region).  Usually $2-$5 just to enter the
                               ^^
I assume you mean Nebraska and not New England; a 'cover charge' to get
into a yard is novel to me, too...


> >I finally wrote down some of the info from the Olds' at a salvage yard near
 > >my house. It does cost a $1 to get in, and I doubt they'll let me in for >
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ > >      Hmmm, that's novel; kind of like an
amusement park? Are you then >      allowed to keep whatever fits in your
pockets? ;)




Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 13:25:38 -0300
Subject: Re: Back In A Week

> Greg,

Is this why they called it the "Civil" War? :)
                                VVVVVVVVVVVV
> Good luck.  You'll love it in civilization (Confererate States of
> America).
>
> Bill Culp
> Decatur, Alabama



Tim (Loves Baiting Bama Bill) Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

From: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 11:36:27 -0300
Subject: Olds Events Nationwide (Was Olds Events in MD)

Chris & All,
If you want a listing of Oldsmobile events, check out OCA's hopefully
temporary web site at http://www.erols.com/brad442/oca for the latest
listing from Journey with Olds.  I put in a proposal for them to get their
own site w/ individual URL like OldsClub.com.  If there is an event missing
you know about, drop me a line w/ the info for the event.

Bryceman's site @ http://www.442.com also has a listing of events and look
under "organizations" and there is an event calendar there.

 ---
| | | Brad Nicholson
| | | 1987 442 W-42
|/|\| 1994 Eighty Eight LSS
| | | Oldsmobile Club of America ª18984
 ---  Oldsmobile Centennial Club - Future Chapter of OCA
(W) brad.nicholson@ssa.gov   (H) brad442@erols.com
Personal Web Page - http://www.erols/com/brad442
OCA Web Page - http://www.erols/com/brad442/oca

------------------------------

From: uknowme <uknowme@mail.botanybay.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 15:24:37 -0300
Subject: glove box problem

Hello all
During the winter while stored, a furry critter came along and ate a
sucker I had left in the glove  box now besides the little fragments of
sucker there's poop too. I have taken the box out but cannot get the
plastic piece off of the door itself any ideas.

I found those wire brackets and adapters for the speakers and the
junkers THANKS!!!

Tim

------------------------------

From: david wyatt <Wyatt_David_L@LILLY.COM>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 10:37:39 -0300
Subject: Re: K - code Oldsmobile???

Kevin Hoopingarner wrote:
>History:  The 70 W-30 was originally purchased by an older gentlemen at the
 >Olds dealership in Linton In.  In 1984 I tried to get the invoice
 >information for it but none was available.  The dealership went through
 >their archives but could not find it.  Funny enough, one of the salesmen
 >there remembered the car and it's color scheme.  (sebring yellow with astro
 >blue stripes).  Because of this color combo, he (and others) particularly
 >remembered getting a good chuckle out of seeing the car when it was
 >delivered.  The car WAS SPECIAL ordered and as you said, was heavily
 >optioned. '70 W-30, Holiday Coupe, Automatic, 3.42 or 3.23 rear, A-C, power
 >discs, power steering, tilt wheel, electric trunk release, rear window
 >defog, power windows, drivers side power seat, courtesy light, rallye pack,
 >AM-FM, and wide door stainless trim.  As far as being or knowing of "K"
 >codes, I do not know.  I don't recall having found the build sheet in the
 >car under the carpet or in the doors when I took it apart.  Maybe under the
 >gas tank?  I didn't try getting the info from oldsmobile at the time but
 >maybe I should have.  I still have the VIN number for the car but not the
 >trim plate info.   I do remember that the paint code on the trim plate was
 >open which made me feel a little better about changing the color from
 >sebring yellow to red.  (I wish I'd have never done that now but that's how
 >things go when you're young)  Funny enough, when I painted it, I did
>originally paint all of the door jams, trunk lid, inside the front fenders,
 >etc.... sebring yellow and then changed my mind about it b/c I wasn't sure
I >was going to like the yellow with the factory blue stripes.


Thanks for the history on your car.  For some reason I thought you had
painted
it white again.

 >It's very interesting that the car this fellows father owned was also
 >repainted red with the blue interior.  Art Jensen purchased the car from
me, >and I believe it may have been owned by someone between Art and it's
current >owner who lives in Danville Ill.  Maybe a connection?? Still may
be the same >car.  I was recently in contact with the fellow in Danville
and tried to >buy it back.  (It has alot of sentimental value since I
had it when I was in >High School).  He really enjoys the car and doesn't
want to sell it.  At >least if I can't have it, I'm happy knowing that
someone else appreciates it.

Damn, it is a small world isn't it?  The young man I was talking to was
named
Jenson.  Apparently it was the SAME car after
all.
 >P.S. What ever happened to those parts you got off of the car from Dave
 >Wynn??  Anything interesting you'd part with?

I am using the fan, which Jenson must have found a replacement for, from
what
I gathered from our conversation.  I used the radiator until last year
when I
gave up repairing it.  Dave Wynn thought it was junk at the time and he
was
close.  The tanks were stressed (according to the radiator repairman)
and kept
splitting away from the newer core.  I did get a 455 (a spare, not the
original)
from Wynn that had been setting outside for a while.  A rebuildable core
if I
am lucky.  The rest was just odds and ends of brackets, nuts, bolts, and
other
engine accessories that are easily replaced.  I did have the air cleaner
base
until recently.

Maybe you should try to get the car back again.  It might be rarer than
we realize
with that paint combo.

Thanks again for the info,
Dave(who could have bought that W-30 for $1200, but would only offer
$1000)Wyatt
70 4-4-2

P.S. When in Lansing in August please feel fre to give me a swift kick
in the a**
for not buying that car.

------------------------------

From: Travis Adams <cashmore@imt.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 16:54:43 -0300
Subject: Re: Hall's Salvage Number/Headers

Nick,
I am looking for the front passenger side "eye-brow" chrome molding for
a 65', mine has a crack.  Also need the actual shifter from a console
car.  Let me know what you find next time out.

Thanks,

Travis
65 442 post

------------------------------

From: Shang <shoover@flash.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 14:55:51 -0300
Subject: Re: can't get valve cover off.

dedarnell@electro-matic.com wrote:
>
> I've got a '71 cutlass w/455, and I can't get the driver's side valve cover
> off.  It hits the Brake master cylinder.  It appears that I will have to
> put a significant dent in the valve cover, or move the master cylinder, or
> take the cylinder off.  Any suggestions???  Can I buy a smaller master
> cylinder?  How much can I dent the valve cover before the rockers hit?
>
> thanks,
> Dave


Just take the master cylinder off, it is only held in place with 2
bolts, you should be able to move it up and over enough to clear the
valve cover without diconnecting the lines.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

From: "Rick" <richardc@equitrac.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 12:50:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Hall's Salvage Number/Headers

would they have headers for a 64????

Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>

------------------------------

From: "LCPL JACKS AIMD/IMO3  X7402" <j3910@boxer.navy.mil>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 19:04:26 -0300
Subject: Re: Remove me from this list

> Greg Roach wrote:
> >
> > I am asking that my e-mail address be removed from this list IMMEDIATELY I
will not tolerate this junk cluttering up my harddrive any longer. If you have
not taken any action by the next 24 hours I> > > Greg, > > I'm sorry to
say, but you have to be the dumbest guy I have encountered > on here.  Why
don't you try reading the directions you got when you > joined, they tell you
exactly how to do it.  Also if all of this is junk > why did you join in the
first place???  It is for diehard Oldsmobile > fans, and I can see that your
not one.  We will all be much happier once > your off the list; rest
assured!!!!! > It is now my turn to kick this bucket around... I am on the
USS Boxer currently in the Red Sea. I was one of 150+ Marines to go out into
the field for exercise. I tried on three different occassions, and using
three different "literal" interpritations of the uns**scribe command. I left
and returned three weeks latter to find 1358 messages to browse! So, there
may be a glich or maybe we just are menatly retarded, but leave the poor guy
be!

Ben
62 Olds F-85
68 Olds 442

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 21:14:15 -0300
Subject: Re: Remove me from this list

LCPL JACKS AIMD/IMO3 X7402 wrote:
>
> It is now my turn to kick this bucket around... I am on the USS Boxer
> currently in the Red Sea. I was one of 150+ Marines to go out into
> the field for exercise. I tried on three different occassions, and
> using three different "literal" interpritations of the uns**scribe
> command. I left and returned three weeks latter to find 1358 messages
> to browse! So, there may be a glich or maybe we just are menatly
> retarded, but leave the poor guy be!

(Puts on the Official Greg-ster Hat)

Without your three versions, I couldn't say what the problem was but the
common ones are sending the message to the wrong address -- such as
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca or owner-oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca rather than
majordomo@chebucto.ns.ca.

Other common mistakes include using some variant of the command "remove"
or using only the "uns*bscr*be" keyword without the list name; reversing
the command ("oldsmobile uns*bscr*be").

The correct commands are "uns*bscr*be oldsmobile" or "uns*bscr*be
oldsmobile-digest".

As far as leaving the guy be, he asked for the flak.  A simple "please"
might have done the trick.

    66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: Edison 3 <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 18:14:49 -0300
Subject: [none]



------------------------------

From: Edison 3 <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 18:12:30 -0300
Subject: [none]



------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 13:31:24 -0300
Subject: Re: Back In A Week

Timothy A. Churchill wrote:
>
> > Greg,
>
> Is this why they called it the "Civil" War? :)
>                                 VVVVVVVVVVVV
> > Good luck.  You'll love it in civilization (Confererate States of
> > America).
> >
> > Bill Culp
> > Decatur, Alabama
>
> Tim (Loves Baiting Bama Bill) Churchill


It shore wuz on our side - still is!

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 19:51:37 -0300
Subject: Re: No Subject

In a message dated 97-06-13 17:32:07 EDT, you write:

>
>
>
>
>

....and I personally am somewhat disappointed by the idle chatter (or lack
of?) going on today......


  Karl Aune
  1965 Dynamic 88
  Chicago, IL
 Member, OCA

  http://members.aol.com/KarlAunan/index.html

 Evidence of Glaziers Refuted?



------------------------------

From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 20:16:12 -0300
Subject: Re: Attention 1964 98 fans

Hi John.

 I believe (and others may correct me) that the 1964 98 comes with a factory
standard 394ci engine. This should be a small block engine. Accessories (e.g.
high performance) for this block may be difficult to locate or non-existent.
You do not specify overall condition of the interior or exterior or how well
it runs, so giving an estimate is difficult.

Since the 98 is essentially a luxury model. All the 1964  98's that I have
seen have power seats and windows. I do not remember, but will assume that
they had power brakes and steering and the one you speak of has these as
well. Assuming slightly oxidized (not crummy) paint, unshredded interior, and
that it runs OK (not necessarily better) I would say that the base price
should be something like $2,000 to $2500. This should be adjusted upwards for
newness of components, or desireable features (A/C, ragtop...).

Hope this helps.

  Karl Aune
  1965 Dynamic 88
  Chicago, IL
 Member, OCA

  http://members.aol.com/KarlAunan/index.html

  (witticism)


------------------------------

From: Jar Lyons <jarl@xactlabs.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 20:42:15 -0300
Subject: Anyone got an 8-track for sale?

I'm back on the list after a long hiatus.

A while back I traded mail with someone with an 8-track AND
console for a 72 Cutlass.

Are you still out there? Do you still have it?

BTW, anyone else out there ever used a tecklock anti-theft
solenoid?  I bought one of the last ones on the shelf before
they folded, and last weekend it melted my battery cable
AFTER my wife turned the car off.

Needless to say, I'm back to plan A - a simple cutoff switch
on the coil.

- --
Have you backed up your data today?
Atrieva Internet Backup Service http://www.atrieva.com

Jar Lyons
jarl@atrieva.com
Atrieva Corporation  (www.atrieva.com)
600 University Street, Suite 911
Seattle, WA  98101
Voice: (206) 749-2914,
Fax:   (206) 382-6615
- ------------------------------------------------------------------
                1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass Convertible
                       455 Rocket Powered
                'How fast do you want to go today?'
- ------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 20:47:46 -0300
Subject: Re: Control arm blues

>        The control arms I have are almost N.O.S.

Just out of curiosity, how much are they?

>I do have a NEW center link available for $42.00
>plus
>shipping, which should be about $6.00. This is not a GM center link
>but it's
>made by McQuay Norris if your interested.

I went down to AutoZone today to see if they had them and they do!  They
have new McQuay Norris available for $45, and they provide a lifetime
warranty on it.  So, I'll just get that from them.

Thanks..

Dave

------------------------------

From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 20:47:45 -0300
Subject: Re: Control arm blues

>Maybe I can pay you back here for the T-3's, I've got the control arm
>on my
>'72 V-C parts car.  Will check on the center link.  How about it?

Oh, yeah, sounds great!  The sooner the better, and THANKS!

Dave

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 21:56:18 -0300
Subject: Re: Remove me from this list

Sorry about the two duds.  My server started blowing chunks for some
reason.  Friday the 13th maybe.

    66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 20:47:45 -0300
Subject: Re: Control arm blues

>Just beware these parts have a
>service
>life somewhere short of 200,000 miles.

I didn't know that...and my Cutlass just turned over 204,000 miles.

>From someone who's been there (sucks to lose a ball joint while
>driving..)

Well, that hasn't happened (yet..)  I hope I can get it fixed brfore it
does; I'm sure it's not fun.


Dave Paulison                    1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida                1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 20:59:38 -0300
Subject: Re: R-12 Pressure

- ----------
> From: MPHeiser@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: R-12 Pressure
> Date: Thursday, June 12, 1997 9:28 PM
>
> If you have a set of a/c gauges, put the blue one on the low side of the
> system...it should read about 30-35 pounds while it's on.  That will give
you
> an idea if it's working properly. If it's higher, you ned a charge.
>
> Mark Heiser
>I don't know how well it works but I have seen a low pressure tire gauge
used for a quick check on the low side.

------------------------------

From: "Jon" <latvis@globalserve.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 20:55:11 -0300
Subject: Chop shop blues

Greetings!

I got rear ended on the highway in my '85 Cutlass Supreme almost 4 weeks
ago.  There were 4 cars involved in the accident.  Traffic was heavy, I
came to a gradual stop as did the minivan behind me, and the girl in the
'83 Cavalier behind the van.  Some a**hole in a Toyota who wasn't watching
the situation in front of him, plowed full speed into the Cavalier,
totalling it, it hit the van and the van hit me.  I left enough room in
front because on several occasions I have had to move quickly in order to
avoid being hit by unattentive idiots.  Unfortunately, because of the
height of the van, I had no way of seeing what was happening behind me.

The car won 3rd place in the Street Stock class at the Olds Club of Canada
Summer Nationals last year, and I had just put another $400.00 into the
engine, so I was upset.  The vultures, um I mean tow truck drivers, that
arrived earn a commission from a the shop that I took it to, and I couldn't
think of anywhere else to take it at the time.  The place looked decent
enough, they showed me the cars that they were working on, including BMWs,
Corvettes, etc. and I was satisfied that they would do a decent job.

The car only sustained unrepairable damage to the trunk lid, rear bumper,
bumper cover, left tail light, and back up lights.  They assured me that
the quarter panels, trunk interior and frame can be straightened, in their
words "As good as new".  As it turned out, I hadn't had an appraisal done
on the car and as a result, the insurance company wrote the car off.  I
kept the salvage, and $2350.00 (Canadian) that they offered me.  The shop
owner said that they would fix the car for two grand, including paint, and
I got the parts for $200.00 through Olds Club members; I decided that since
the car was there, (and I cancelled my insurance) that I would let them fix
it.

It took me almost 3 weeks to come to a settlement with my insurance company
and find the parts.  I brought the parts to the body shop a week ago.  I
went up there today to see how my car was doing, and noticed that the
bumper, bumper cover and back up lights sit too low.  There is about an
inch wide gap betweed the trunk lid and the back up lights.  The top of the
plastic frame around the licence plate also sticks out from under the trunk
lid, but is already right up against the weather stripping, indicating that
the trunk interior was not properly bent back into shape.  As a result of
the impact, the frame and quater panels were bent downwards, and I don't
think that they straightened the frame and trunk interior properly.  I
inspected the frame, and the rubber bushings between the frame and under
body on the rest of the car are tightly torqued (they bulge out the middle)
but in the back they aren't torqued as tighly.  Shouldn''t they be evenly
torqued troughout the length of the frame?  I asked the shop owner about
this and he said, get this "There is less weight on the back of the car".
I started laughing, and told him that weight has nothing to do with it, but
how the frame meshes with the under body does.  They guy who straightened
it says that bumpers from different cars are slightly different due to 12
years of wear and tear.  When I left, the owner assured me that it would be
fixed.  I asked him how, and he said that they would take care of it.  I
didn't want to push the point any more, I was tired and they guy was
clearly pi**ed off at the fact that I'm not as stupid as most of his
customers; the way I see it, it can't be done without more bending.

Anyone have any thoughts about how to deal with this?  Any suggestions
would be greatly appreciated.

Jon Gulbis
'85 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

From: Daren & Laurie <daren@revealed.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 21:44:14 -0300
Subject: Re: B, O, or P 455? Which is better?

> They all had much potential but Chevy 454 wins by sheer numbers made,it
> got a lot more parts made for it hence more people used it ,this made
> parts
> cheaper so more people used it,etc,etc.Kind of like domino effect .
> Me I never have followed the crowd just led it so I  raced an Olds,
> got expensive though.
> Just my .02c
> Frank
> 70 442
> 71 442 w30 convt
> 72 Cutlass S
> 90 LSC s\e

Actually rebuild kits for an Olds are in the the price range as a Chevy
BB. PAW's deluxe master kit Chevy $472-$605 Olds $542 racing master kit
Chevy $948-$1174 Olds $857 super stock master kit Chevy $822-$846 Olds
$808. Just to price a few.

Daren

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 21:49:51 -0300
Subject: Re: Deep Direct Drum?

  What is a "Deep Direct Drum" -- ive never heard of what it is you are
writing about

                    J2RKT@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 17:53:00 -0300
Subject: 8-Track Problem

I'm hoping some of you smart folks here can help me.  I can't figure
this out.

I recently installed an NOS 8-Track player in my '67 Ninety Eight.  It
works beatifully considering the technology of the era.  But the few
8-Tracks I have are stupid things like Mantovani and Sonny and Cher and
Burl Ives and Perry Como.  Those are the survivors, the other ones broke
on me.  I bought one of those 8-Track/Cassette converters at Carlisle a
couple of years ago.  I works perfectly in the 8-Track in my Cutlass,
but when I use it in my Ninety Eight I get a noise that I can only
describe as a thumping, like a helicopter.  Anybody have any idea why
the player works with 8-Tracks, but not the converter and why the
converter works in my '72 and not my '67?  Do I just have
incompatibility?  Or what?  Keep this simple if there's an answer, I'm
an electronic dummy.

Paul

Groovin' to Sonny and Cher for the time being...
- --
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 22:18:12 -0300
Subject: Re: B, O, or P 455? Which is better?


> I don't have anything against Chevys (I love anything fast), but I like
to
> stick to BOP cars (even the occasional AMC product), just so I maintain
my
> individuality.  If going fast inexpensively is your goal, you can't
really
> beat a Chevy.
Like Dave said for HP Per $ the chevy is hard to beat. I love my Olds and
think that Oldsmobile made some of the coolest cars to ever hit the
streets...... but I dont think I could ever get 12.52 @107  in a 3600 lb
car on street tires for less than $2000 with anything but a Chevy. And it
is set to shift at 6000 rpm ( at wot) so it has ran for over 3 years
without even having a valve cover off. But it isnt a 454, its a little
small block. Oh thats without NOS. With the juice on for the second half of
the track it ran 11.93  @ 120 with my 17 year old driving it.
Walter
66 Delta 88
56 Belair
and several others

------------------------------

From: Patrick Flowers <patri63@ibm.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 22:47:41 -0300
Subject: Friday the 13th(Alternator 3rd Strike)

Mike Frederick wrote:
>
> Friday the 13th maybe.

I'm not one bit superstitious, but today I installed the third
alternator that my '89 88 has required in as many years.  The factory
alternator lasted over five years.  The first replacement 6 months.  The
last one two years.  What's wrong with this picture.  All three
replacements have been rebuilt units.  I noticed this time that the
rating on this little alternator is 105 amps.  This seems to be asking a
lot out of such a small unit.  If it goes again, should I swallow my
pride, go to the local dealership and buy a new Delco unit?  Am I
missing something?

Patrick
- --
Patrick Flowers    Mailto:patri63@ibm.net

------------------------------

From: Brad Baker <bjbaker@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 1997 02:00:49 -0300
Subject: Re: Aug Olds Meet -- More Non Olds Aspect

Timothy A. Churchill wrote:
>
> Brad Was Quick to Say:
>
> >  Wrong-O!! you New England Home-Boy!!  Hampton Beach is located on the
> > shore in the town of Hampton,NH., not Seabrook. But nice try anyway.
> > Most of the time you have very accurate info!! ;)
>
> Don't be too hasty with your verdict, CT boy.  I'm under the impression
> that Hampton (and Hampton Beach) are sections of Seabrook.  I will verify
> this on the map.

  Well go ahead and verify all you want, you Lubsta eating unbeliever!!
  I have spent the last 15 years taking two weeks summer vacation on the
beaches
  of semi-private Seabrook, which is on the west side of Hampton Harbor.
If you
  cross over the bridge (which is one of those kind that rises up to
allow tall
  boats to enter), then you would be in the town of Hampton, at Hampton
Beach.

> In any event, all the beaches mentioned have nice vistas of the Seabrook
> Nuclear powerplant... and are also close to two of the top 10 cities in
> the country to live in -- Nashua NH is ª1?!?!? :)

  The house I stay at has a lovely view of the Nuke plant on the horizon
  just where the sun sets. Looks all red and glowing.
  Even at 10:00 in the morning!! ;)
>
> Well, there's that monthly antique auto flea in Amherst, NH, just a couple
> of miles from Nashua, so mebbe they're onto something... ;)
>
> Tim Churchill

------------------------------

From: "Graham Stewart" <graham.stewart@utoronto.ca>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 23:20:43 -0300
Subject: An Electrical Question

Hey folks ...

I am trying to get a car (74 Ninety-Eight) running with a battery that is
pretty low on power.  Often the engine will crank a bit, not start and the
whole electrical system stops functioning as if a breaker were blown.
After a few minutes, power comes back and though it is reluctant to crank
(solenoid clicks, but starter doesn't crank), the lights, radio and other
electricals work.  Then if I try cranking again it "blows" again, leaving
me with no power for several minutes.  So ...

- -is this a fusible link problem?  If so, is it the one near the starter, or
is there also one on the firewall?
- -or am I overloading something in the starter which starts working again
after it has cooled down a bit?

Any suggestions/advice greatly appreciated ...

- -powerless in T.O.

Graham Stewart
Toronto, Ontario, Canada
graham.stewart@utoronto.ca

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 23:24:28 -0300
Subject: Re: can't get valve cover off.

At 09:14 AM 6/13/97 -0300, you wrote:
>
>I've got a '71 cutlass w/455, and I can't get the driver's side valve cover
>off.  It hits the Brake master cylinder.  It appears that I will have to
>put a significant dent in the valve cover, or move the master cylinder, or
>take the cylinder off.  Any suggestions???  Can I buy a smaller master
>cylinder?  How much can I dent the valve cover before the rockers hit?
>
>thanks,
>Dave
>

Dave

        A bodies are suppose to ahve a notched valve cover set. The drivers
side and the passenger side have reliefs in the back areas to allow access
to them with A/C and power brakes. They aren't that hard to find.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 23:38:30 -0300
Subject: Re: Back In A Week

Lloyd Culp wrote:
>
> Timothy A. Churchill wrote:
> >
> > > Greg,
> >
> > Is this why they called it the "Civil" War? :)
> >                                 VVVVVVVVVVVV
> > > Good luck.  You'll love it in civilization (Confererate States of
> > > America).
> > >
> > > Bill Culp
> > > Decatur, Alabama
> >
> > Tim (Loves Baiting Bama Bill) Churchill
>
> It shore wuz on our side - still is!
>
> Bill Culp
> Decatur, Alabama
Bill,

I hate to tell you, according to some of my wife's relatives who live in
and around Coffee Springs, Alabama, anyone north of Montgomery is still
a d**n Yankee.  My is an unfortunate half breed, her mother from Coffee
Springs, Alabama, and her father from Slippery Rock, Pennsylvania.  It
is only fitting she lives in Kentucky, a "border" state.  I'm heading
down that way in about three weeks on the way to Panama City.

As my in-laws lived in Birmingham, Alabama, I naturally made a lot
friends there over the twenty plus years in the family.  A lot of times
I had to translate from Southern to American  English many times in
conversing with them.  Anyhow, one time my father-in-law was in the
hospital and we went down to visit.  As my wife's brother was also in
that week, he took my mother-in-law to the hospital to see her husband.
They tried to give us directions to the hospital, but screwed them up.
Anyway we got off one of the exits on the interstate going around B-ham
and stopped at a service stateion and asked where the hospital was.  The
guy told us and we were off.  I told my wife the guy said to get off the
Oporto Road exit.  I told I guest that would translate to Old Porter
Road  and we proceeded to look.  I just about missed the exit when
Oporto Road actually showed up on the sign.  We got a good laugh out it
because this was one time it was unnecessary to translate.  From then on
I didn't translate unless we first knew it was necessary.  When my
father-in-law died a few years ago, and my mother-in-law moved to
Kentucky with us, we are gradually losing touch with a lot of fine
people and friends in Bama.

Don

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 19:19:29 -0300
Subject: Re: Chop shop blues

Jon wrote:
>
> Greetings!
>
> I got rear ended on the highway in my '85 Cutlass Supreme almost 4 weeks
> ago.

<snip>
>
> Anyone have any thoughts about how to deal with this?  Any suggestions
> would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Jon Gulbis
> '85 Cutlass Supreme

Jon,

These guys can really take you & it is very difficult to do as much
about it as you would like.  The courtroom is your last resort.  A
little psychological guerilla warfare may be called for.  You may also
need all the amunition you can get for a courtroom.

1. Get some pictures of the car now & put them safely away w/the before
pictures that the insurance co took to justify the total.  Keep taking
pictures & let the body shop know that you are taking them.

2. Keep a log of the times that you see the car, what happened & what
was said.  Expect a list of repairs, parts & labor continually
throughout this ordeal.

3. Put it in writing the things that you expect & give them a copy to
sign & date.  If you cannot get such a contract, pull your car out & pay
what you have to.  Don't get in any farther.

4. Visit often & w/a witness to any conversations, work progress, &
condition of the car.

Good luck.  Don't hesitate to drop the whole deal if you can't get the
progress & quality you are looking for.  It would be better to lose a
little now than have the whole car ruined & pay twice.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 19:34:14 -0300
Subject: Re: Back In A Week

Don Sowers wrote:
>
>
> As my in-laws lived in Birmingham, Alabama, I naturally made a lot
> friends there over the twenty plus years in the family.  A lot of times
> I had to translate from Southern to American  English many times in
> conversing with them.  Anyhow, one time my father-in-law was in the
> hospital and we went down to visit.  As my wife's brother was also in
> that week, he took my mother-in-law to the hospital to see her husband.
> They tried to give us directions to the hospital, but screwed them up.
> Anyway we got off one of the exits on the interstate going around B-ham
> and stopped at a service stateion and asked where the hospital was.  The
> guy told us and we were off.  I told my wife the guy said to get off the
> Oporto Road exit.  I told I guest that would translate to Old Porter
> Road  and we proceeded to look.  I just about missed the exit when
> Oporto Road actually showed up on the sign.  We got a good laugh out it
> because this was one time it was unnecessary to translate.  From then on
> I didn't translate unless we first knew it was necessary.  When my
> father-in-law died a few years ago, and my mother-in-law moved to
> Kentucky with us, we are gradually losing touch with a lot of fine
> people and friends in Bama.
>
> Don

Don,

It isn't widely known, but one can spell Southern as well as speak
Southern.  That is our written version of "Old Porter".

This trick was used on Sherman when he was marching to New Orleans for
Mardi Gras.  He ended up leaving Atlanta in a rush heading east when he
thought he was going west.  Needless to say, he completely missed Mardi
Gras & we had a wonderful time w/out him.

Bill Culp
Decataa, Alabamer (Decatur, Alabama for who don't know better)

------------------------------

From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@pitnet.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 1997 00:40:21 -0300
Subject: Clock help

I've been trying to get the clock working on my 68, but no luck.  I've
taken it apart and lubed it with wd-40.  I know there has been a lot of
discussion on this before, but I didn't pay that much attention.  I
guess I should have, because you never know when you can you use.  Does
anybody have any suggestions on what I should do?

- -Dan

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 1997 01:46:21 -0300
Subject: Re: Control arm blues

I've got to pull parts off it this weekend for the first of the three 'take
most of it' buyers.  I'll get the control arm & check the link.

Will let you know - post me back your address in case I can't find it from
before.

------------------------------

From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 1997 01:53:14 -0300
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Events

Chris - drag your sorry self out to Riverside CALIFORNIA June 21 - Dutton
Olds dealership, Riverside Auto Center, 9 a.m..  We're having a So Cal Olds
Club show & the dealership is including a 100th Anniversary celebration as
well.

Come see some of the Clubs very fine Oldsmobiles & JOIN.


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '72 Vista Cruiser
, '69 Toronado (arriving in August)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 1997 02:51:26 -0300
Subject: Re:

At 05:42 PM 6/12/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Anyone out there has a line on body parts for '71 Cutlass Supreme?  Need
>left ft. fender; hood; grills and bumper(if available).  Can use own bumper
>if necessary.  Car was pristeen until ª2 son decided to exchange paint with
>a little old lady in a Hyundai Sonata at 35 m.p.h.  CONSEQUENCES: Cutlass
>$1200.00 damage;  Hyundai
>totalled  $7400.00.  Score one for Olds, you say?  WRONG! Score one for
>Amnesty International as my son did not get recycled.  The car has 67,000
>original miles on it.
>
>
>Oh yeah, need said parts to be located close to or in Canada if possible.
>(British Columbia)  Car has been idle for about 10 months looking for parts.
>Any and all leads, however, would be appreciated.
>
>
>
>Ron Barillaro
>rbarillaro@img.net
>
>
Ron

         Hi! we're not located too close to Canada, but we have NEW fenders,
nice used grilles, and hood. We're located in Virginia. Let us know if your
interested.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass SX W-32
72 442 (350)
86 Ninety Eight
94 Cutlass Supeme
96 C-1500

------------------------------

From: J2RKT@aol.com
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 1997 12:18:38 -0300
Subject: Re: B, O, or P 455? Which is better?

In a message dated 97-06-13 00:54:10 EDT, you write:

<<
 Jason Labay wrote:
 >
 > Ok, time to start some flame wars on the list ;-) Anyway I am looking for
 > some honest, unbiased opinions from the list on which manufacturer made a
 > 455 with the most potential as a street/strip performer? Putting obvious
 > Oldsmobile bias aside:-) The top 445 that I can think of for each
 > manufacturer (I am missing some I know) are the 69 H/O 455, 70 Buick GSX
 > Stage 1 455, and the 73 Pontiac Trans Am 455 SD. I was mainly looking for
 > opinions from those on the list that have built, driven or raced the
other's
 > 455's.
 >  >>


          Howdee Folks,

                                  Im not too much of a wiz on the other brand
455 engines and probably not a genius on the Olds 455, but here are a few of
the differences i have learned about between the various GM 455 Engines.
   Just by looking at the differences in the bore/stroke of each of the 455's
you can get a start on the basics  Buick 455 -- 4.3125 x 3.90,  Olds 455
 4.126 x 4.25, and Pontiac 455  4.15 x 4.21.













      The main advantage of the Buick 455 is that it has the shortest stroke
- -- even shorter than a Chevy 454, and i have been told that the Buick 455 is
also the lightest engine out of the bunch -- i read in a Hot Rod magazine
from the 70's that the Buick 455 only weighs about 25 lbs more than a small
block Chevy when an aluminum intake manifold is installed.  The main
disadvantage with the Buick 455 is the "dog leg" shape of the intake ports
wich causes some problems with overall airflow capability.  Other than that,
that's about all i know about Buick 455s ive never even seen the inside of a
Buick engine.
       Pontiac 455's main drawback is that it has huge main journal diameters
that limit the top speed of the crankshaft.  When the engine is revved too
high it tends to burn out the main bearings, literally.  Pontiac 455's seem
to have the biggest advantages out of the bunch of GM 455's -- 4 bolt main
cylinder block, availability of good flowing cylinder heads with the
capability to install larger valves, and an adjustable valve train.
        Olds 455's, limitations--- Two bolt main cylinder blocks, oiling
system capacity,  relatively poor flowing cylinder heads (small ports and
valves), non adjustable valve train, and exhuast port location.
        On just a final note -- lots of people compare the B.O.P. engines to
the BB Chevy wich is a mistake, the BB Chevy was designed as a high HP racing
engine right from the start while the B.O.P. engines were designed primarily
as passenger car engines from the start.  The advantages of the B.O.P.
engines are that they all will develope better bottom end and mid range
torque than the BB Chevy engines while the BB Chevy will almost always make
better hp.  If you've ever been to a street race take a look at the cars that
tend to drill everybody right off the line and stay ahead for the first 500
feet or so, it's not the Chevies.

           Anyway that's just my two cents worth on that

                                 J2RKT@aol.com

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