To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #731


oldsmobile-digest          Tuesday, 24 June 1997       Volume 01 : Number 731

Olds 455 engine
a good deal gone bad
Re: Does this make sense?
Re: tire pressure
Re: anybody else make heads?
THE LAST Delta 98 Regency Brougham
Re: High heat
Can anyone ID my engine please
Misc: My Olds Week under my LONG-term project SX
10 Tips for Coil Spring Compressor Etiquette
Differences in Cutlass Disc-brake Brake-Hose Brackets
Re: Parting 69 Cutlass Supreme 4 door
Re: Running hot
Re: Edlebrock Intake Manifold
Re: Olds 455 engine
Re: '67 98 4 door
RE: leaking fuel tank
Re: tire pressure
Olds Events - Maryland
Re: Misc: My Olds Week under my LONG-term project SX
Re: Can anyone ID my engine please
Re: 1965 400ci engine/head id
Re: 1965 330 engine
Re: leaking fuel tank
Re: 442 - Here we go again
Re: High heat
Re: Parting 69 Cutlass Supreme 4 door
Paging Paul Hartleib...
Re: GTO
Re: a good deal gone bad
Looking for tires  225-75-14
Re: Looking for tires  225-75-14
69 S
Re[2]: '67 98 4 door
Re: Edlebrock Intake Manifold
Re: High RPM Problem
Re: High RPM Problem
86 442, Need engine ideas...
'69 H/O sighting at Old Town
olds delta 88 royale 1976
Re: High RPM Problem

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: JR <joertexas@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 19:50:13 -0300
Subject: Olds 455 engine

Just out of curiousity, what's the going price for an Olds 455 engine in
rebuildable condition (run out, but complete and undamaged)?

JR

------------------------------

From: hot69w30@webtv.net (david harmon)
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 01:28:36 -0300
Subject: a good deal gone bad

There's an old saying that goes - if it sounds too good to be true, it
probably is.  That is my feeling from the recent purchase of a 69 olds
fender.  After a long wait the fender arrived this past Friday.  To my
suprise it was far less than the description I had received from the
seller.
I requested a fender by e-mail using this list and it went something
like this.....
"I need a right fender for a 69 cutlass, little or no rust, and NO CRASH
DAMAGE".  The fender I received was virtually rust free, but the crash
damage is another story.   The fender is now at a body shop in hopes of
repair & to my dismay more money$$$.  I was told that all I would need
to do is to drill some holes for chrome & weld up a few emblem holes -
THAT WAS FAR FROM THE TRUTH.

The moral of this story is:
  COD shipments only

The reason I don't name the seller is because it's my own fault.....I
should have known better.   I take this as a lesson learned and hope
that you will not make the same mistake.

Sincerely,
David Harmon

 ~~~69~~~                                                      ~olds~

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 01:26:39 -0300
Subject: Re: Does this make sense?

At 09:58 AM 6/22/97 -0300, you wrote:
>I''ve got a 72 Cutlass Supreme hardtop. I'll make the story short.  I'm
>being told by a mechanic that the carburator has linkage modifications.
>The carburator was put on about a year ago.  It's a four barrel, may be
>a different year other than 72 and, it was re-built.  My old carburator
>was not passing smog (I'm in California).  Now my car is using a lot of
>gas and it smells of gas frequently.  (The mechanic who has the car now
>is different from the one who put the re-built carb on).  The mechanic
>who has the car says the top of the carb is wet.  Presumably gasoline.
>Does this make sense?  Would the linkage need to be modified from stock
>to pass smog?

The gas on the top of the carb is caused by either a warped or cracked top
on the carb, or a stuck float, or a bad gasket. It would not be due to a
modified linkage. How was the linkage modified?

>Or... did I get a bad re-built carb? I've noticed the gas
>smell that last few months.  The car runs fine for the most part.  I
>believe this guy's plan is to make the carb stock.  What are your
>recommendations?

Well, the carb is not a good carb (good carbs generally don't leak gas), and
it's not a good rebuilt carb for you, since a good rebuilt replacement carb
bolts on with no modifications. What kind of warranty was on it?

Unless you have some reason to modify the carb due to some other engine
modifications, the stock setup is the best setup to use, especially for
passing emissions. What exactly would be needed to get the carb back to
stock form? Perhaps it would be cheaper to replace the carb entirely? What
is the number stamped on the side of the carb? (should begin with "704...."
or something similar; ideally would be a ª7042250)

>
>Also -- this mechanic said if I have not had the raditor rotted out
>recently that's advisable to do.  I've had the car 3 years and have
>never done that.  I'll check through the original repair records which I
>have from original owner to see if it was done at all.  I'm told when
>the rotting is done a new thermostat is put in. I'm being quoted $150
>for the rotting, parts and labor.  Is this a good thing to do?
>
>Also my valve cover gasket is supposedly leaking.  I know my car leaks
>oil and there is some seepage around the beautiful gold valve covers.
>Does that *have* to be from the gasket?  Could there be something
>else?   Does replacing this gasket make sense?
>
>They also suggested replacing my belts while this carb and gasket stuff
>is done.  My belts are worn apparently.
>
>Thanks for the space -- I appreciate you thoughts.
>
>Best,
>
>Amy Z.
>
>
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 01:26:29 -0300
Subject: Re: tire pressure

At 06:02 PM 6/23/97 -0300, you wrote:
>> What is the proper tire pressure for a 1985 olds regency? I have
>>michelin
>> tires ªxw4's. await your reply. Thanks!
>
>Uhhh, the tire manufacturer usually puts the recommended pressure right
>on the tire.  Usually somewhere around 30-35 psi.  Look for it on the
>sidewall of the tire.

If you look carefully at the sidewall, you'll see that particular pressure
is listed as the *maximum* pressure. Inside the door jamb, there was
originally (and still may be) a sticker with the "factory recommended" tire
pressures. These two figures are usually not the same (the factory
recommended pressure would also be found in the owner's manual, and perhaps
inside the glovebox door).

Now, if you want the *proper* pressure, as in optimal, then you'll have to
do some experimentation. Start with the "factory recommended" pressure,
which was the best compromise of handling, ride and tire wear for a
stock-tired, stock-suspended, stock-weight vehicle. You might try raising
one pair of tires (front or rear) by 2psi, and see if you like it better
(i.e., if you want it to handle better, see if it handles better; if you
want it to ride better, see if the ride is more to your liking, etc...). If
it is better, try 2psi changes, first front, then rear, until the ride is no
better or no worse. You might also try lowering pressures by 2psi steps, if
raising them isn't to your liking. Also try to compare under similar
conditions (same stretch of road, same temperature, be as scientific as
possible), so you know whether the change you made was for the better or
not. Oh, and keep a log of it, so you know what effect each change had; that
way, you can always go back to a combination you liked.

One thing you want to watch out for is poor tire wear; one setting that you
like might cause the inside or the outer edges of the tire to wear
prematurely. In that case, you'll have to compromise between optimum
ride/handling and optimum tire wear.

Of course, that's what GM paid the factory engineers to do, who put those
pressures on your door jamb, so if you don't feel like experimenting (some
people love it, some don't), then just stick with those pressures.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 01:26:33 -0300
Subject: Re: anybody else make heads?

At 09:00 PM 6/22/97 -0300, you wrote:
>> Is there another parts company that makes heads for 350 Olds'? I think
>> the 403 heads option is a cool idea, but I want to see if I have any
>> other options.
>
>Edelbrock is developing 400-455 Olds heads now to be released early '98,
>but I don't think that they have plans for 350 heads.  You can e-mail them
>at edelbrock@edelbrock.com and ask them if you'd like.

The 403 heads would not be a great idea for a 350, unless you had some
reason that you wanted to reduce the compression ratio with its big-block
size combustion chambers. In fact, the only good point about those heads is
their 2.00" intake valves, but you can add those to any 350 heads.

Batten makes Olds heads (for millionaires...); good set of mildly ported '72
350 heads will give you 95% of their performance on the street, however, so
you can spend the $2500 elsewhere.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Ben Beyeler <benab@goshen.edu>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 01:39:25 -0300
Subject: THE LAST Delta 98 Regency Brougham

Does anybody happen to know the serial number of the last 1984 Oldsmobile
Delta 98 Regency Brougham off of the assembly line?
Thanks,
Ben

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 01:50:06 -0300
Subject: Re: High heat

At 11:51 PM 6/23/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Can anyone help with a high heat problem I have with my 69 442 conv with
>a 455cid. I have a great deal of heat in the driving compartment.
>This heat seams to come from under the dash and from the floor. The
>floor gets so hot I can't put bear feet on it for long after driving for
>a while. As far as the heat from under the dash, I have disconected
>the heater core but that didn't seem to help much if at all.

I had/have this problem with my '70 SX w/455 and headers, but that's because
I was too cheap to replace the floor insulation when I replaced the carpet.
You might need a new firewall pad and floor pad; not too expensive, but you
may as well replace your heater core while you've got all that stuff out of
there to replace that firewall pad.

If your car has headers, you might try wrapping them with header tape to
keep the heat in them.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: uknowme <uknowme@mail.botanybay.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 01:53:52 -0300
Subject: Can anyone ID my engine please

Hello again
This is the second post of this request if you don't know could you
point me in the right direction maybe an internet site?
Anyway I have a engine number can anyone tell me what my engine is the ª
is K0325D9B
Is this the original engine?
Year of the engine? etc
THANKS
Tim
81 Cutlass Supreme (under construction)
80 Mustang (Ford sucks WINTER BEATER)
80 Camaro  (ah memories)

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 02:08:56 -0300
Subject: Misc: My Olds Week under my LONG-term project SX

I took a couple days off to get my SX ready for its engine. I had to bend up
all new brakes lines, which went well, though I've still got to do the rear
line. Installed the last front spring, so now for the first time in thirteen
years the car is on *all*four*tires*! (is that some kind of record or
something for getting around to your own project??) This is real exciting
for me. I also got the steering shaft, box and linkage hooked up, so now it
theoretically could be rolled somewhere (if the rear brakes weren't
frozen...).

Inside, I committed the "Great Mold Massacre of '97" with a can of Lysol,
and reassembled the dash (again, first time in 13 years that things aren't
hanging down from it...), and hooked up the black seatbelts that I must have
gotten from some parts car that I don't even _remember_. Also pulled a door
cylinder to replace the long-gone door/ignition keys; thankfully I still had
a trunk key hanging around.

It's been sitting outside for the last 13 years under various poor covers,
but because I disassembled and stored things in the basement, it's an odd
combination of really good/really bad pieces. For example, the
previously-solid trunk floor has rotted in some places, because the rust
under the rear window has increased to epic proportions, and the cowl now
has small rust holes where there previously were none, but the front clip
that I pulled when the car was only 14 years old is nearly mint. I
undercoated the floors before installing a new (now badly faded) black
carpet, so those have been preserved.

I need to torque down the front suspension components, finish the brakes,
and then drop in the '68 Toro motor before getting everything else back on.
The TH400 from it has been sitting for this amount of time, but was
completely rebuilt only 9 months before it was pulled. Aside from the front
and rear seals, are there any internal seals that might be damaged from
sitting for so long? I may just have it gone through for peace of mind...

Sorry to ramble, but I'm really thrilled to *finally* be getting this thing
back together. I had to put it off while I was in school, so for 12 years
it's been merely a shell with a pair of frame-horns sticking out of it, but
now it almost looks like a car! It'll be nice to bring my Olds-powered
stable up to three (and get this thing back to my house where I can work on
it, rather than loading up all my tools and travelling 2 hours to get at it :(
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 03:02:29 -0300
Subject: 10 Tips for Coil Spring Compressor Etiquette

Every time I use one, I seem to forget everything I've learned from previous
uses, and end up reinventing the procedures. Well, here's what I remember
learning from my latest encounter, and if nothing else, this will serve as a
reminder to myself of what to do and what *not* to do...

1) In removing/replacing a front GM coil-spring in a rwd car, you have to
pay attention to where the threaded shaft of the compressor is pointing. It
is *designed* to fit through the upper shock mount hole in the frame;
otherwise, it will just bottom against the upper spring pocket, and you
won't get enough clearance to compress the spring for removal or installation.

2) In order to get the shaft through the shock-mount hole, you have to
fanegel<sp?> the arrangement of the four hooks on the tool. For both the
lower and upper pair of hooks, one is shorter than the other, so if you
position the shorter hooks opposite each other, the way the hooks grab the
spring results in the spring being evenly compressed.

The relation of the upper spring mount cup in the frame and the lower spring
mount cup in the A-arm, however, is not parallel, because of the arc that
the A-arm swings in order to get the spring out. If you put the shorter
hooks on the _same_ side, they'll compress that side of the spring more than
the other, so the spring gets compressed in a kind of curve, which orients
the bottom and top of the spring roughly in the direction that the
spring-mount cups point.

In addition, there is a kind of locating "tang" in the upper spring-mount
cup, that must be inside the upper-end of the coil spring; it's easier to
locate the upper end of the spring in that, and work the lower end into the
A-arm spring cup, than the other way around.

3) When you compress the spring, pay attention to where the unflattened end
of the coil spring is in relation to the curve; you want it on the inside of
the curve, since the positioning hole that it should rest over is on the
inner part of the lower A-arm.

4) When you tighten the nut on the spring compressor, the only way to access
it with some curve in the spring is with a u-joint and a short socket,
driven by a short extension. An air-ratchet with the right joints/extensions
would be a *really* nice tool to use in this situation.

5) If you have the option of removing a spring with or without an engine
installed in the framerails, by all means do it WITH the engine installed.
There is not enough weight on the spring with just a bare frame to compress
it enough to get the ball joint stud to fit through the hole spindle; in
that case, you have to compress it more with the spring compressor than you
othewise would.

6) When compressing a spring, only compress it as much as you have to
(perhaps 2-3") in order to remove or install it; anything more is just
wasted energy.

7) When you position the hooks of the spring compressor to squeeze the
spring, position them a couple coils from the bottom, and about 1/3 down
from the top. If you get too close to the bottom, the spring coils will
compress on the hooks of the compressor, making it difficult or impossible
to remove. The upper ones will just get lost in the upper spring pocket, and
likewise be difficult to remove.

8) One of the big frustrations is keeping the hooks of the compressor from
catching on the coils as you try to install the tool. One trick I found is
to wrap a rubber band around the upper hooks; not a big one, but just enough
to keep them together near the threaded shaft as you're installing the tool.
The other trick is to loosen the tool quite a bit for installing and
removing it; otherwise, the nut and washer on the threaded shaft tends to
spread the lower hooks, causing them to interfere with the A-arm or the
spring coils.

9) Oh, also, when installing a coil spring, make sure the nut for tightening
the compressor is pointing *down*!

10) A cheap $20 2-ton floor jack is the perfect tool for raising a lower
A-arm into position for the ball-joint stud to be tightened.

Just some tips so people can learn from my own stupidity...
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 03:10:59 -0300
Subject: Differences in Cutlass Disc-brake Brake-Hose Brackets

I don't know if anyone has ever noticed this, but there are some subtle
differences in the 1970 and 1972 disc-brake brake hose brackets (another
essential element in a disc-brake conversion).

The hole in these brackets appears, at first glance, to be a simple
hex-shaped hole. On my '70's original brackets, however, two points of this
hex are kind of "rounded", presumably so that the hole in the other end of
the brake hose is properly positioned in relation to the caliper when the
hose is installed in this bracket (with a simple hex, 2 out of 3 ways you
could install it would be wrong).

On the brackets from the '72 Vista I parted, however, only one of the points
on the bracket is rounded, so the hose can only be installed one way. It
appears that the '70 hoses would fit in the '72 brackets, but not
vice-versa. The easiest solution to use the '72-type hoses in the '70-type
brackets would be to grind off the one offending point on the hex, if you
need to use that combination.

BTW, it would seem to be very simple to reproduce these brackets, as they're
basically just bent flat steel with a punched hole.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 03:45:03 -0300
Subject: Re: Parting 69 Cutlass Supreme 4 door

At 07:18 PM 6/23/97 -0300, you wrote:
>That sounds reasonable to me Jim.  I think that most of have had the
>opportunity to restore a 4-door and have passed.  We all hate it, but
>not everything can be saved.
>
>We also have had the opportunity to get a good parts car, save a little
>money on parts for our restoration, & maybe sell some parts to recover
>our parts car costs.  Usually we do not do it as it is a little more
>than we want to sink into a speculative car, we don't have space, the
>spouse won't like it hanging around, the neighbors won't allow it, etc.,
>etc..
>
>If Jim wants to & is willing to speculate so that we can have the needed
>parts at reasonable prices, why should we complain.  We'd buy them from
>someone.  Some car is being sacrificed for our parts.  He is helping us
>& making himself some money.  What could be more fair?
>
>Bill Culp
>Decatur, Alabama
>
Bill

        Thank You for understanding.

Jim

------------------------------

From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 03:56:48 -0300
Subject: Re: Running hot

Michael_Baugher@americancentury.com wrote:
>
> Hi all
>
> My 69 Cutlass with A/C and a 350 2 barrell is running a little hot lately.
> I'm sure the fact that it's been around 90 with a heat index over 100
> outside
> has something to do with it.  When I bought the car last October, it
> consistently
> ran at about 160 degrees when warmed up. Lately it's been running at 190 or
> a little higher. It defintely is a little higher at slower speeds/rpm's.
>
> I haven't ran the A/C yet this year (it's a convertible, so tops been down
> a lot).
> I notice that if I run the heater (experimenting with the temp gauge, not
> for enjoyment!)
> that tends to keep the temp a little lower.
>
> I checked the coolant/water level, and it was fine.  The mixture is quite
> foamy however.
> I think I remember someone on this list commenting about a similar problem
> and mentioned that the foam indicates transmission fluid in the radiator??
> Is that right?
>
> Anyway, any suggestions will be appreciated, as always!!
>
> Mike Baugher
> 69 Cutlass "S" (stands for sweat!) convertible
Mike,

I, too have a 69 S conv.  Unfortunately mine was stolen and restolen by
me and is missing several parts.  Do you have any body or interior
parts?  What part of the country are you located?  Hit me with an e-mail
if you get the chance.

Don Sowers
dstaxpro@lex.infi.net

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 03:46:50 -0300
Subject: Re: Edlebrock Intake Manifold

At 05:50 PM 6/23/97 -0300, you wrote:
>I have a 72 Cutlass S with the 350 2bbl. I have a Q-jet to be rebuilt,
>and I would like to install a Edelbrock Performer aluminum intake
>manifold. Has anyone had any experience with this manifold? I'm hoping
>to increase my gas mileage (at least if I kepp my foot out of the
>secondaries :)). As it is, I get about 13MPG.
>
>JR
>
JR

        That manifold will not really help in the mileage department. The
factory intake with a well built Q-jet will give you the best MPG.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 04:07:43 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds 455 engine

At 07:50 PM 6/23/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Just out of curiousity, what's the going price for an Olds 455 engine in
>rebuildable condition (run out, but complete and undamaged)?

For a regular, high-compression '68-'70 455, w/carb and exhaust manifolds,
$150-$250; add perhaps $50-$100 for a 442 motor, and who-knows-what for a
W-30.

For a low-compression '68-'72 motor, maybe $100-$175.

For a '73-'76 smog-motor with "J" heads, maybe $75-$150?
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 07:06:03 -0300
Subject: Re: '67 98 4 door

On Mon, 23 Jun 1997, David Brown wrote:
> Also, these used a vacuum operated trunk opener, right? Will 10" of vacuum
> do the job? Is there just a vacuum line running from the vacuum canister
> back to a solenoid in the trunk?

I'm not sure about the '67 98 trunk opener, but I have one yet to be
installed in my '68 Cutlass that uses a vacuum tank and a few dozen feet
of hose to route the vacuum from the engine to the tank to a switch
mounted in the glovebox and then all the way to a vacuum cylinder in the
rear that is mounted on the trunklid and twists the latch release rod.
Kind of a Rube Goldberg setup.

The problem, and the reason it hasn't been installed yet, is that as near
as I can tell, you need a special trunk latch release rod. This thing is
designed to accept the end of the rod that sticks into the trunk
compartment and from looking at it I'd say it needs about a half-inch or
so of length. Mine only protrudes less than a quarter-inch and I don't
think it will mate up. Grab the rod out of the trunk latch if you part out
one of these...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Curt Salada <csalada@astea.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 09:03:19 -0300
Subject: RE: leaking fuel tank

>
>From: Jar Lyons <jarl@atrieva.com>
>Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 14:39:22 -0300
>Subject: 2 ?'s: leaking fuel tank, front brakes
>
>When I was out this weekend with a fully loaded car (5 adults
>and a full trunk of luggage), I noticed that after we stopped
>I had a gas leak coming from the front of the gas tank.
>
>I was parked heading downhill, so I moved it to level ground
>and the leak stopped.
>
>the leak was coming from the front end of the tank, dripping
>off the edge in at least 2 places, just behind the transaxle.
>
>the tank was less than 1/2 full.
>
>As I was looking at it from behind, I noticed the rear edge of
>the gas tank (middle seam) had a few areas that looked as though they'd
>been damp recently as well.
>
I had a similar problem some years ago.  Assuming that the vehicle is
the '72 Cutlass advertised at the end of your post, there are some
rubber fuel / vapor hoses exiting the front of the tank.  There are two
or three of them (sorry, memory is a little foggy and service manual is
not handy), and each is only a few inches long.  They connect the fuel
tank and the metal fuel lines that go to the engine compartment.  They
are hose-clamped at either end, and they are quite possibly rotted and
leaking.  At least, that is what happened to my vehicle, giving it the
appearance that the gas tank was leaking.  These little hoses are tucked
up and out of the way, but are accessible from under the car without
removing anything.  Replace the hoses and clamps, and save that pack of
Camels for after you're finished.

Curt Salada
1971 Cutlass for sale -- see it at
http://scils.rutgers.edu/~djcohen/curt/olds

------------------------------

From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 22:04:51 -0300
Subject: Re: tire pressure

I bet you use a torque wrench to tighten wheel lug nuts, don't you?!?
(forgive me if "wheel lug nuts" is not the proper technical name, but I'm
sure you know my meaning)


On Mon, 23 Jun 1997, "John M. Loban" <cyberpsych@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>In response to " the tire manufacturer usually puts the recommended tire
>pressure on the tire"   Wrong!!!!!!!!   This is in my opinion the most
>misunderstood aspect of car ownership.  Every tire has the maximum
>recommended pressure for that tire listed on the tire.  That means any
>more pressure than recommeded and all guarantees are off if something
>happens to the tire.  It in know way is meant to be a specific
>recommendation for a particular car.  That information is in the owners
>manual or posted in a comvenient place like the door jamb.  Tire
>pressure is directly related to the size of the rubber footprint your
>car makes.  This is taken into consideration by the car engineers when
>they design braking, weight balance  (percent front vs. rear) cornering
>etc.  Too much pressure and the footprint is smaller than needed and a
>ruff ride.   This can then affect braking, tire spinning etc.  Many rear
>engine cars (Porche, Corvairs) require 5-8 pound difference in an effort
>to shift weight forward and equalize footprint size.  With ABS brakes
>and electronic traction control it becomes even more important.  And if
>you have a pre-radial tire car your probably going to have to run more
>pressure that was recommended for the old bias-belted.  Example: my '63
>starfire calls for 24 lbs pressure.  Impossible to run that low in
>radial tires without creating wobble.  I run 32LBS.  Trial and error
>method determined this.  Even tire shops seem to be making this mistake
>about tire pressure and the kids working a rapid oil change places are
>also usually mis-informed. Ask around most people know nothing about the
>importance of tire pressure -  maybe I've taught a few now.  Sorry for
>this lecture and remember to ckeck pressure when the tires are cold.
>

------------------------------

From: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 15:09:22 -0300
Subject: Olds Events - Maryland

Second Tuesday of Each Month -
OCC Monthly Meeting
Location: ERNIE SWANSON OLDSMOBILE 410 N. CRAIN HIGHWAY, GLEN BURNIE, MD
Phone: (410) 768-8800 Fax: (410) 768-1948

All we ask is that you NOT park in front of the dealership as they will be
open. Please park to the right of the showroom, down in front of the
service bays, there is plenty of room.  We have a meeting room in the back
and to the left in the showroom building.  Someone will be in the showroom
to show you where the meeting is. We shouldn't run past 8:30PM. If you know
of anyone else who might be interested, and not on the newsgroup, please
pass the word along and or bring them with ya.  There are 25+ current
members in the club.  There is a wide variety of Oldsmobiles represented,
add yours to the list.  We will be finalizing items for the upcoming show,
stuffing goodie bags, discuss other local events, Sept. Cruise Nite events
planning and whatever else comes up.  Anyone who joins this year will be
considered a Charter Member.  Anyone interested in joining, or know of
someone who might be interested, drop me some e-mail.  I have directions to
the meeting.  If you plan on coming, please e-mail me so we have a head
count for refreshments.  There will be a deli tray for anyone who misses
dinner at their house.

==========================================================================
Sunday July 13, 1997
Oldsmobile Centennial Club 1st Annual Show @ Ernie Swanson Oldsmobile, 410
North Crain Highway, Glen Burnie, MD.  Registration starts @ 10am, show
from 11am-3pm. All Oldsmobiles Welcome. $5 registration includes dash
plaque and goodie bag to first 50 Oldsmobiles through the gate. Please
pre-reg by July 9.  Non-judging show, but there will be special awards
given for dealer's & people's choice.  50/50 drawing and door prizes. Door
prize contributors so far include: K&N Engineering, WD-40, Auto Custom
Carpets and Apple Hydraulics.
Info: Brad Nicholson @ (410) 965-3825, e-mail: brad442@erols.com.  Web
site: www.erols.com/brad442/occhome.html (Registration form available at
the web site.  Just print it and send it in).

=========================================================================
Saturday September 13, 1997
1st ANNUAL OLDSMOBILE CENTENNIAL CLUB CRUISE NITE. Hosted by the Oldsmobile
Centennial Club (Future OCA Chapter). At The Big M Restaurant/Drive-In
Theater, P.O. Box 111, Rt. 22, Churchville, MD (Between Bel Air & Aberdeen,
MD. 5 miles west of I-95) All years and condition Oldsmobiles welcome,
daily drivers to show trailer queens. Free goodie bag to first 50
Oldsmobile through the gate. Open to the public. Other vehicles welcome to
cruise on in. Music, fun and games, 50/50 drawing.
Info: Brad Nicholson @ (410) 256-0381, e-mail: brad442@erols.com or The Big
M @ (410) 734-4370.   Club Web Link at
http://www.erols.com/brad442/occhome.html

==========================================================================
 ---
| | | Brad Nicholson
| | | 1987 442 W-42
|/|\| 1994 Eighty Eight LSS
| | | Oldsmobile Club of America ª18984
 ---  Oldsmobile Centennial Club - Future Chapter of OCA
(W) brad.nicholson@ssa.gov   (H) brad442@erols.com
Personal Web Page - http://www.erols/com/brad442
OCA Web Page - http://www.erols/com/brad442/oca

------------------------------

From: Daren & Laurie <daren@revealed.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 10:56:28 -0300
Subject: Re: Misc: My Olds Week under my LONG-term project SX

Robert Barry wrote:
> Installed the last front spring, so now for the first time in thirteen
> years the car is on *all*four*tires*! (is that some kind of record or
> something for getting around to your own project??)

I dont feel so bad now about the Dynamic being apart for about 7 years.
It's going to be at least another year till it's running again.

> Inside, I committed the "Great Mold Massacre of '97" with a can of Lysol,

Something I'll have to do to.

> It's been sitting outside for the last 13 years under various poor covers,
> but because I disassembled and stored things in the basement, it's an odd
> combination of really good/really bad pieces. For example, the
> previously-solid trunk floor has rotted in some places, because the rust
> under the rear window has increased to epic proportions, and the cowl now
> has small rust holes where there previously were none, but the front clip
> that I pulled when the car was only 14 years old is nearly mint.

Mine has about 2x5 inch hole were the drivers left heel would be at.
That wasn't there 7 years ago.

> I need to torque down the front suspension components, finish the brakes,
> and then drop in the '68 Toro motor before getting everything else back on.

Me to but I have to choose between a stock '65 425 2bbl. or a '65 425
.030 over with a steel crank, windage tray, 7 quart Milodon oil pan,
shoot-peened and notched connecting rods, 10.25 forged pistons with
chromoly rings, JM-40 cam, 3/8" pushrods, Harland sharp roller rockers,
ported 2.07 1.?? valve heads and a port matched Torquer intake. I got
this motor a couple years ago from a guy that built it for a '70 SX that
decide not to put it in his car because Mondello told him he would
probable have to install a roll bar if he went to a NHRA sanctioned
track. So he stuck the motor in the corner of his garage planning on
buying a beater Cutlass to put it in. Well after 4 years his Financial
advisor told him it had to go. I got this motor and a spare 425 and a
box full of engine parts for $1350(yes Walter this is the same motor).
He gave me the receipts for it that if I remember right came out to a
little over $3300. I plan on tearing it down and having the block
checked and checking all the clearances myself. One problem with putting
this motor in the Dynamic is that it has rear steer which makes it vary
tight to get headers in it. At least I've got 3 sets of headers to cut
up for it.

> Sorry to ramble, but I'm really thrilled to *finally* be getting this thing
> back together.

I can understand.

> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

Daren

------------------------------

From: Daren & Laurie <daren@revealed.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 11:03:28 -0300
Subject: Re: Can anyone ID my engine please

uknowme wrote:
> Anyway I have a engine number can anyone tell me what my engine is the ª
> is K0325D9B
> Is this the original engine?
> Year of the engine? etc
> THANKS
> Tim
> 81 Cutlass Supreme (under construction)
> 80 Mustang (Ford sucks WINTER BEATER)
> 80 Camaro  (ah memories)

I can't find that number. If your asking about the '81 Cutlass the motor
would be 3161 5A and the heads should be 3317 5A. Those numders sound a
little short so could someone confirm these.

Daren

------------------------------

From: Daren & Laurie <daren@revealed.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 11:06:08 -0300
Subject: Re: 1965 400ci engine/head id

KarlAunan@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 97-06-23 20:13:14 EDT, you write:
>
> > >
> >  > Hey Guys,
> >  >         An engine with "A" heads can be the 400 as well as the 425.
> Trust
> >  > me...I've looked at one for over 32 years!
> >  >                                                        Ron Forsee
> >  >                                                         65 442-Meister
> >
>
> OK
>
> Did see a 1965 Cutlass/F-85 442 allaged to have 400cid motor inside. The
code > above the water pump read; 389298B. The heads were A. There was no
"400" on > the heads that I could see (block ID was readable but forgot to
remember it) > but I believe that the cylinder head also read a number that
was not 383812 > as mine read. The only reason that I previously thought that
there were no > 1965 400's is that my 1965 Chassis manual only mentions 330
and 425. Are > these markings correct for IDing the 1965 400 and are there
other markings?

If your chassis manual only covers full-size cars that would be why 400s
are not listed in it.

Daren

------------------------------

From: Daren & Laurie <daren@revealed.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 11:13:35 -0300
Subject: Re: 1965 330 engine

Ryan Hehn wrote:
>
> Dan Hamlett wrote:
> > Ryan Hehn wrote:
> > >
> > > In our local paper there is a 1965 Olds F-85 for sale.  Apparently the
> > > car was recently restored, including a rebuild of the 330 (listed at 300
> > > HP).  Also included are a set of Radial TA's.
> > >
> > > Anyway, the car has been written off and the owner wants to sell it for
> > > $500.  This sounds like a good price for even just a rebuilt 330, so I'm
> > > kind of tempted.
> > >
> > > Would the 330 be suitable for my '81 Cutlass Supreme?  I'm assuming it
> > > would use the same motor mounts as a 455.. Please correct me if I'm
> > > wrong.  Also, my dad tells me that these 330's required the old premium
> > > gas... If this is the case, would it need octane booster at every fill?
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance,
> > >
> > > Ryan Hehn
> > > ryanh@docker.com
> > Let me get this straight, this guy is seeling a 65 F-85 with the 310 HP
> > 330 in it RESTORED for 500 bucks and YOU wanna know if you can put the
> > 330 in an 81 CS?????  Your kidding, RIGHT???  Your FUNNY.
>
> PLEASE, give me some credit.  If the car wasn't ***WRITTEN OFF*** (ie.
> destroyed, the body is beyond repair due to an accident) of course I
> would buy the car for the car and not the motor.  I ***DID*** mention
> this fact in my original message.
>
> Thanks for your reply anyway,
>
> Ryan Hehn
> ryanh@docker.com

The '72 442 I had was "written off" when I wrecked it. It only needed a
front bumber, fender, head light bezal. They wrote it off because the
parts are not readily availible. So unless you've actually seen the car
I would not consider it beyond repair.

Daren

------------------------------

From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 05:57:02 -0300
Subject: Re: leaking fuel tank

Curt Salada wrote:
>
> >
> >From: Jar Lyons <jarl@atrieva.com>
> >Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 14:39:22 -0300
> >Subject: 2 ?'s: leaking fuel tank, front brakes
> >
> >When I was out this weekend with a fully loaded car (5 adults
> >and a full trunk of luggage), I noticed that after we stopped
> >I had a gas leak coming from the front of the gas tank.
> >
> >I was parked heading downhill, so I moved it to level ground
> >and the leak stopped.
> >
> >the leak was coming from the front end of the tank, dripping
> >off the edge in at least 2 places, just behind the transaxle.
> >
> >the tank was less than 1/2 full.
> >
> >As I was looking at it from behind, I noticed the rear edge of
> >the gas tank (middle seam) had a few areas that looked as though they'd
> >been damp recently as well.
> >
> I had a similar problem some years ago.  Assuming that the vehicle is
> the '72 Cutlass advertised at the end of your post, there are some
> rubber fuel / vapor hoses exiting the front of the tank.  There are two
> or three of them (sorry, memory is a little foggy and service manual is
> not handy), and each is only a few inches long.  They connect the fuel
> tank and the metal fuel lines that go to the engine compartment.  They
> are hose-clamped at either end, and they are quite possibly rotted and
> leaking.  At least, that is what happened to my vehicle, giving it the
> appearance that the gas tank was leaking.  These little hoses are tucked
> up and out of the way, but are accessible from under the car without
> removing anything.  Replace the hoses and clamps, and save that pack of
> Camels for after you're finished.
>
> Curt Salada


Curt,

Another possibility is the seal in the sending unit where it fastens
into the tank.  Again, there is no good way to replace this seal w/the
tank in place just as the hoses may cause this same removal process.

Drop the tank & remove the 2 hoses for exit & return lines & electric
sending unit wire.  (Did I mention siphoning off as much gasoline as
possible first?)  The sending unit is held on to the tank w/a circular
locking tab.  Gently use a screwdriver & hammer to rotate the circular
tab so that it unlocks to release the sending unit.  Under the sending
unit is a gasket that may be damaged & need replacing.  Another
possibility is that the flange area is damaged which will allow the seal
to leak.  This must be repaired (reshaped) so that the seal will
actually seal.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

From: Daren & Laurie <daren@revealed.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 11:28:22 -0300
Subject: Re: 442 - Here we go again

R4C442@aol.com wrote:
>                                                                 Ron Forsee
65 > 442-Meister > >         I sincerely look forward to seeing all of you in
Lansing. (Little > Richard,what a blast!) Also, would anybody object if I left
my header caps at > home?

I'll be there. Leave the caps home!

Daren

------------------------------

From: Steven LaCrosse <lacrosse@frontiernet.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 11:01:41 -0300
Subject: Re: High heat

Matt Cremean wrote:
>=20
> Steven LaCrosse wrote:
> >
> > Can anyone help with a high heat problem I have with my 69 442 conv w=
ith
> > a 455cid. I have a great deal of heat in the driving compartment.
> > This heat seams to come from under the dash and from the floor. The
> > floor gets so hot I can't put bear feet on it for long after driving =
for
> > a while. As far as the heat from under the dash, I have disconected
> > the heater core but that didn't seem to help much if at all.
> > Any help would be great. Thank you.
>=20
> You might want to have your exhaust checked. You probably have a leak i=
n
> the top of your pipe(s).
>=20
> --
> **********************************
> Matt Cremean
> Ev_Corp Main Admin.
> delta_v plug G/S/O Admin.
> +=3D+=3D+=3D+=3D+=3D+=3D+=3D+=3D+=3D+=3D+=3D+=3D+=3D+=3D+=3D+=3D+=3D
> CreamerSoft=A9 Software
> http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
> +=3D+=3D+=3D+=3D+=3D+=3D+=3D+=3D+=3D+=3D+=3D+=3D+=3D+=3D+=3D+=3D+=3D
> 1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
> http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
> **********************************
Matt, Thanks for the note. If I had a leak, wouldn't I hear it first?

------------------------------

From: Daren & Laurie <daren@revealed.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 11:26:20 -0300
Subject: Re: Parting 69 Cutlass Supreme 4 door

James & Joanne Chermack wrote:
>
> At 03:14 PM 6/23/97 -0300, you wrote:
> >James & Joanne Chermack wrote:
> >>
> >> We have just acquired a 69 Cutlass Supreme Holiday 4 door from Texas to
part > >> out. > >> The drivetrain is spoken for but ALL body parts are mint
condition. > >>         These parts are all extemely nice. > >> > >> Jim
Chermack > >> OCA ª24275 > >> 70 Cutlass Supreme SX W-32 > >> 72 442 (350) >
>> 86 Ninety Eight > >> 94 Cutlass Supreme > >> 96 C-1500 > >> Virginia Beach,
VA > >> (757) 474-0869 > > > >If the parts are "mint condition" & "extremely
nice" why are you > >destroying the car? > > > >Daren > > > >'65 Oldsmobile >
>Styled to go ... where the action is! > > > > This car was purchased 6 years
ago and has been a daily driver since. The > original engine was shot due to
lack of maintanence. The drive train is > going back into it's respective
vehicle again. Right now between three of > us, we have 16 cars. 'm not going
through the hassle of putting another > complete drivetrain in it and selling
it to some kid to wrap around a phone > pole. Which is what happend to my 64
442 I sold. Again too many cars. This > car would need some body work to block
the side to make it really straight > and $1500.00 in paint and another
$800.00 to do a 4 door interior. So we > decided the best thing to do was part
the body. The 68 Ram Rod the engine > belongs to is worth having done before
I'd restor another 4 door. > > Jim Chermack

I can understand that. You'll also get a lot more money out of it by
parting it out. It originally sounded like a car that only needed a
drive train. I was going to part out the '72 442 I had but decided to
sell it whole minus rims and tires for $400. I'm glad I did. The guy
that bought it completly redid the body and plans on putting a 455 in
it. The body was in very bad shape.

Daren

------------------------------

From: "smardale@airmail.net" <smardale@airmail.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 12:03:53 -0300
Subject: Paging Paul Hartleib...

Does anyone have Paul Hartleib's email address? The address <plh@leba.net>
seems to be no longer valid.  Thanks, and sorry for the bandwidth.

Scott Martindale
smardale@airmail.net

------------------------------

From: Daniel Dale <daleds@okra.millsaps.edu>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 11:56:16 -0300
Subject: Re: GTO

>Guess he has them there freeway gears..  In conclusion
>I just gotta say that a stock 1967 toro 425 in front of an M-21 close
>ratio with a 4.10 rear end in a 67 442 convertible body is more than a
>match for a stock 67 GTO. I would imagine it would put a hurtin' on the
>68-69 400 GTO's too..
>
>Ken
>1967 442 "Goat Slayer"
no!  really??  You mean your modified big block oldsmobile actually managed to
beat a stock GTO? that really is something.  If my 66 GTO had a 69 Grand Prix
428, a 4 speed, and 4.11 gears I doubt it would have much trouble putting the
hurt on some W-30's, but I wouldn't go around bragging about it.



Dan Dale daleds@okra.millsaps.edu http://www.millsaps.edu/~daleds/
'72 Cotner-Bevington Olds 98 Combination, '66 GTO, '73 LeBaron, '87
IROC-Z, '55 Seville, (2) '69 DeVille Converts., '76 Fleetwood Brougham
'61 Crown, '66 Newport, '72 LTD, '76 New Yorker Brougham, 1966 LeMans

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 13:35:52 -0300
Subject: Re: a good deal gone bad

Your fault, NO WAY!! Name the guilty party!! Save the rest of us from
having the same bad experiences. Our mileage may vary, but it's good to
know about the unscrupulous dealings of individuals and companies.

Nothing snipped because this needs restating. . .

David Brown       Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com  OR  http://www.en.com/users/thall

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds
- ------------

There's an old saying that goes - if it sounds too good to be true, it
probably is.  That is my feeling from the recent purchase of a 69 olds
fender.  After a long wait the fender arrived this past Friday.  To my
suprise it was far less than the description I had received from the
seller.
I requested a fender by e-mail using this list and it went something
like this.....
"I need a right fender for a 69 cutlass, little or no rust, and NO CRASH
DAMAGE".  The fender I received was virtually rust free, but the crash
damage is another story.   The fender is now at a body shop in hopes of
repair & to my dismay more money$$$.  I was told that all I would need
to do is to drill some holes for chrome & weld up a few emblem holes -
THAT WAS FAR FROM THE TRUTH.

The moral of this story is:
  COD shipments only

The reason I don't name the seller is because it's my own fault.....I
should have known better.   I take this as a lesson learned and hope
that you will not make the same mistake.

Sincerely,
David Harmon

 ~~~69~~~                                                      ~olds~

------------------------------

From: larry polesnak <bullets@sgi.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 14:50:15 -0300
Subject: Looking for tires  225-75-14

Hi everyone,thanks for taking the time to read this.I am looking for
tires for my 62 STARFIRE. I would like to have red lines but I'm sure
they would be more than I could afford. I would like to fine a whitewall
that is either 3/8 inch or  1/2 inch. I found smoothies and knockoffs
but can't seem to find tires thanks for your help.... LARRY
   6   2     S    T   A    R    F   I    R    E

------------------------------

From: "Douglas J Harkema" <harkema2@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 13:04:49 -0300
Subject: Re: Looking for tires  225-75-14

I am buying a 69 cutlass with the tires your looking for.
I am going to get ralley wheels and some diff. tires.  The tires are brand
new! If I knew the size I would let you know.  Going to look at it again
tonight and will get the info

Doug Harkema

harkema2@pilot.msu.edu

> > Hi everyone,thanks for taking the time to read
this.I am looking
for > tires for my 62 STARFIRE. I would like to have red lines but I'm sure
> they would be more than I could afford. I would like to fine a whitewall
> that is either 3/8 inch or  1/2 inch. I found smoothies and knockoffs
> but can't seem to find tires thanks for your help.... LARRY
>    6   2     S    T   A    R    F   I    R    E
>
>

------------------------------

From: "Douglas J Harkema" <harkema2@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 13:10:07 -0300
Subject: 69 S

Hi I'm looking at buying a 69 S  The car is in solid ª'2 condition.  It is a
Plane Jane with hubcaps bench seat ect.. 2 barrell.  What would be a good
price for this car?  Also what are the correct ralley wheels for a 69 and how
would I go about finding some.

I'm looking forward to seeing you in Lansing-It's in my back yard!!!  Maybe I
could have a get together at my house that week??? anyone interested??

I hope to have a car by then.

No I will have a car by then!!!!!!!!

Thanks

Doug Harkema

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 15:34:41 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: '67 98 4 door

Thanks Greg. I'll see what's in the trunk, if I can get it open! The huge
metal vacuum resevoir is in good shape. No heads for sure on this one, but
maybe a rubber trunk mat or at least the passenger rubber mat. I guess I
could always take the rear seat out and crawl through to pop the trunk!

David Brown       Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com  OR  http://www.en.com/users/thall

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

From: PaulP34167@aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 14:26:19 -0300
Subject: Re: Edlebrock Intake Manifold

In a message dated 97-06-24 12:14:48 EDT, you write:

>         That manifold will not really help in the mileage department. The
>  factory intake with a well built Q-jet will give you the best MPG.
>

I converted my 350 from 2 bbl to 4bbl Q-Jet using a factory intake manifold
and get 17-18 mpg on highway with point ignition, Turbo 350 trans, 3.08
differential, and dual exhaust.  I had to play around with the metering rods
and jets though.

Paul Pate
70 Cutlass S
84 Camaro LG4

------------------------------

From: PaulP34167@aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 14:31:36 -0300
Subject: Re: High RPM Problem

In a message dated 97-06-24 01:05:58 EDT, you write:

> I have been fighting with this problem in my '66 Ninety Eight for a while.
 It
>
>  has the original 425 still in it.  It only has 93,000 miles on it but
plenty
> of
>  problems as always.  It idles and runs very well.  When I step it to the
> floor
>  the car will take off hard and then start to spit and sputter and backfire

> when
>  it gets to the high RPM's just before it's about to shift.  If I back off

The sputtering sounds like lack of fuel, but the backfire could be caused by
poor ignition.  It may need more ignition advance.  It could be valve float
also.

> the
>  pedal just a little bit it will shift and stop doing this.  I have put on
an
> HEI
>  ignition, a Holley 600 CFM carb, and the timing has been set.  I had this
>  problem before and after I put on the ignition and the carb.  I think the
> fuel
>  pump is newer, but should I put on a new one anyway, maybe a higher
pressure
> one
>  like Holley's model ªHLY-12-836 that pumps 80 gph at 7 psi.  Or do I need
>  something to increase the spark, like one of the products from MSD
ignition.
>
>  Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance!
>

Paul Pate
70 Cutlass S
84 Camaro LG4

------------------------------

From: PaulP34167@aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 14:32:34 -0300
Subject: Re: High RPM Problem

In a message dated 97-06-24 01:05:58 EDT, you write:

> I have been fighting with this problem in my '66 Ninety Eight for a while.
 It
>
>  has the original 425 still in it.  It only has 93,000 miles on it but
plenty
> of
>  problems as always.  It idles and runs very well.  When I step it to the
> floor
>  the car will take off hard and then start to spit and sputter and backfire

> when
>  it gets to the high RPM's just before it's about to shift.  If I back off

The sputtering sounds like lack of fuel, but the backfire could be caused by
poor ignition.  It may need more ignition advance.  It could be valve float
also.

> the
>  pedal just a little bit it will shift and stop doing this.  I have put on
an
> HEI
>  ignition, a Holley 600 CFM carb, and the timing has been set.  I had this
>  problem before and after I put on the ignition and the carb.  I think the
> fuel
>  pump is newer, but should I put on a new one anyway, maybe a higher
pressure
> one
>  like Holley's model ªHLY-12-836 that pumps 80 gph at 7 psi.  Or do I need
>  something to increase the spark, like one of the products from MSD
ignition.
>
>  Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance!
>

------------------------------

From: Frank Iezzi <fiezzi@freenet.columbus.oh.us>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 14:31:45 -0300
Subject: 86 442, Need engine ideas...

Hello to all,
My 86 442 needs the engine rebuilt, ª3 cylinder has only 60lbs pressure,
this 307 has been a good engine, but at 121K miles, what should I do?
Rebuild the 307 or drop in a 350?

And if I opt for the 350, what tips, hints, etc do you have for me on this
swap?

I dont/can't read all the posts as I have e-mail capability only at work
(on breaks/ or for 1/2 hr after work).

Thanks,
Frank Iezzi
looking forward to hearing any and all comments

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 16:09:18 -0300
Subject: '69 H/O sighting at Old Town

Pauls posting reminds me of the '69 H/O I saw at the Old Town cruise in
Kissimmee (sp?) FLA (Orlando, Disney area). I was just walking down the aisle
of cars and THERE IT WAS. Beeaauutiifullll!! I waited around, asked a number
of other cruisers (no camera - dang), but the owner must grabbed something to
eat and was nowhere to be found. It wasn't there the next weekend. There was
a '61 or '62 Cutlass (unibody) in attendence.

If you are in the area, you have to go!! Nothing newer than '72, a fair
share of Olds, diversity of makes, and pretty much what you think of as
classics. Some trucks (check out the proporations of a '65-'67 GMC 305 or 350
V-6!!) with very few cam***s and rus****s. Starts around 5pm, cruise at 7 or
7:30pm, and lasts to 10 or 11pm. There was a small write up in 'evy Craft.

This also reminds me of something else I have been lazy in posting. I met
Bob Handren and his wife Cheryl earlier this spring. Had a great time. It was
really neat seeing his '67 W-30. I was grinning ear to ear as I walked into
the hotel lobby to meet him after seeing it in the parking lot! As luck would
have it, Bob had a lot of car time that day, so we went to a small car show,
Don Garlit's drag racing museum, and then Old Town. I was really fortunate
that Bob had this amount of time available, and we were able to cruise around
so much.

The '67 really moves, and Bob tested that many times just to make sure :) !!
Very, very nice car! Keeps me thinking about the parchment '67 442 4 speed
that I passed on a while ago.

David Brown       Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com  OR  http://www.en.com/users/thall

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds
- ------------

As I was delivering parts today, I spotted a '69 H/0!! Wow, I've seen
pictures of one, but actually seeing one, well, all I can say that it was
very impressive!  I saw it from a distance at a car show here in town last
summer, and I'm sure it will be there again this August.  Maybe I'll get a
chance to meet the owner and BS Olds stuff with him.  Just the appearance
of the car makes it look very fast!

Paul Rousseau
*1967 442

------------------------------

From: "archy van wely" <usicon@pi.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 15:10:37 -0300
Subject: olds delta 88 royale 1976

Hello everyone, my name is archy and I am from the Netherlands.
I have a problem for a long time. I heve been trying to get information
about my car wich I am restorating. (?make original). Anyway besides that
it is a very beatifull car I do not know very much about it.
I would appriciate it if somebody could help me.
For secutity I will send my chassisnumber and my vehicle identificaion
number along.
The chassis number is 3n69r6m245217 and the idnumber is 76oldsl10605217.
I hope you can help me, in the meantime greetings from Holland
Usicon@pi.net

------------------------------

From: enowacki@titan.com (Erik Nowacki)
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 15:38:53 -0300
Subject: Re: High RPM Problem

The original fuel delivery system should be capable of supporting the engine
at high RPM's.  Have you checked that there are no obstructions such as
kinked fuel lines or clogged filters in your systsem.  Also, you may
consider clearing the fuel lines with compressed air to make sure there is
nothing blocking the fuel from getting to the carb.  It could also be a
problem within the gas tank.  I would check this before going through the
trouble of installing a new fuel pump.  If there is something blocking or
restricting the flow in your fuel lines you will have the same problem with
the new fuel pump.

I am assuming you have had the new carb jetted properly for your application.

Driving an old car is like a box of chocolates, you never kno what you gonna
get.........


Erik Nowacki
72 Vista Cruiser

>> I have been fighting with this problem in my '66 Ninety Eight for a while.
> It
>>
>>  has the original 425 still in it.  It only has 93,000 miles on it but
>plenty
>> of
>>  problems as always.  It idles and runs very well.  When I step it to the
>> floor
>>  the car will take off hard and then start to spit and sputter and backfire
>
>> when
>>  it gets to the high RPM's just before it's about to shift.  If I back off
>
>The sputtering sounds like lack of fuel, but the backfire could be caused by
>poor ignition.  It may need more ignition advance.  It could be valve float
>also.
>
>> the
>>  pedal just a little bit it will shift and stop doing this.  I have put on
>an
>> HEI
>>  ignition, a Holley 600 CFM carb, and the timing has been set.  I had this
>>  problem before and after I put on the ignition and the carb.  I think the
>> fuel
>>  pump is newer, but should I put on a new one anyway, maybe a higher
>pressure
>> one
>>  like Holley's model ªHLY-12-836 that pumps 80 gph at 7 psi.  Or do I need
>>  something to increase the spark, like one of the products from MSD
>ignition.
>>
>>  Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance!
>>
>
>Paul Pate
>70 Cutlass S
>84 Camaro LG4
>
>
>

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª731
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