
oldsmobile-digest        Friday, July 18 1997        Volume 01 : Number 762



Re: Oil, race Cutlass!!!!
Re: Antique Olds
Re: Introduction (very long)
Re: Rare find?!
Re: Smog Adventure
Re: Oil, race Cutlass!!!!
Message not deliverable
September Popular Hot Rodding
Re: Hurst package
Re: Need a few parts...
Re: Rare find?!
Re: Hurst package
Re: Remove
Re: '69 H/O Convertibles
Re: Oil, race Cutlass!!!!
Re: '69 H/O Convertibles
Need convertible top drive cable
I'm back !
Re: I'm back !
Re: quartz clock conversions
RE:Cost for engine rebuild
RE: Olds Nats Trip Report + noisy rockers/lifters
Cutlass for sale..earlyier models..
Overheating!!!!
67 442 Production
'84 307 V8 locked up/ LeSabre Limited value
Re: Cost for engine rebuild
84' Regency 98 handling improvements
RE: Olds Nats Trip Report + noisy rockers/lifters
Re: Good Headers-please read!
Re: Overheating!!!!
Re: Overheating!!!!
Re: Overheating!!!!
Re: 84' Regency 98 handling improvements
Re: 84' Regency 98 handling improvements
Re: Secondary Metering Rods
New Addition to the Family... ;-)
Re: Smog Adventure
Re: New Addition to the Family... ;-)
Re: Smog Adventure
Re[2]: Smog Adventure

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 21:53:43 -0400
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: Oil, race Cutlass!!!!

Matt Cremean wrote:
> 
> Jon wrote:
> >
> > It's best to just stick with 100% synthetic oil.  It might be more
> > expensive initially, but considering that you only have to change it about
> > every 20,000 Km it ends up acutually being cheaper than conventional oil,
> > and protects your engine much better than conventional oil.  The first
> > winter of driving my Cutlass, I ran conventional and the car started really
> 
> I have a tip for all of you. Buy Amsoil 2000. A friend of mine and his
> kid did a science project about motor oils at his shop, complete with a
> dyno. They ran every test they could think of (did I mention this guy
> builds race engines for a living). I saw the results Tuesday. Amsoil and
> Amsoil 2000 clearly beat every other "name brand" oil on the market.
> That's why I use it.
> 
> BTW- speaking of Mr. Buchman and his engine shop, I'm going to park the
> Cutlass this winter, pull out the 350, put it on a motor stand,
> completely tear it apart and clean it in his shop, then put it back
> togethor with the parts I want!!!! This will truly be an excellent
> experience. I will learn SO MUCH! He will be watching over my shoulder,
> telling me exactly what to do. Forget everything I've said about my car
> having balls by the time Lansing rolls around. It'll just have a good
> paint job and nice exhaust.
> 
> Any suggestions as to what I should put in her besides these:
> 
> Comp Cam
> Manley Valves
> Roller Rockers
> Forged Pistons
> Ported/polished Heads
> Heddman Hedders
> Edelbrock RPM manifold (maybe)
> 750cfm Q-jet (maybe)


Hi Matt,

That little b*tch will go like a bat out of hell--she'll be a 455
chaser. It'll be making some serious power...I'm guessing 300-325 at a
minimum.  Buy some stock in Goodyear or Firestone...you're gonna need
it.

Why are you going to forged pistons?  Are you planning a nitrous oxide
system, or something wild like that?  Since you are turning this
borderline daily-driver into a pro-street machine, I'd suggest a set of
stronger rods, and stronger rod cap nuts.  If an engine is going to blow
because of abuse or over-revving, the engine will throw a rod first.

A comp cam will make all of its power up on top end (4000+), and will
likely run out around 7000.  The OEM rods will go V.V.K.
(voom-voom-kaboom!) around 6000, so you won't be able to take full
advantage of the wild camshaft.  Will you be re-doing the crank
bearings?  If it'll be turning 7000+ revs, replacing the bearings is
strongly suggested.  Consider the alternative, like a chewed crankshaft.

What are you going to do about the lubrication system?  Oldsmobiles are
synonymous with oil-related problems, because at high revs (6000+), the
oil pump will suck the pan dry, and it'll go V.V.K. in no time.  There
are a few ways to get around this problem:  one, try using a Toro oil
pan--it'll hold an extra litre, but this may not be enough, considering
you're making one hell of a large upgrade.

Try an oversized aftermarket oil pan, if you can find one, but you'll
have to add a higher volume oil pump.  That method would be the easier
of the two.  The other is an oil restriction system for the valvetrain,
which will cut down on the amount of oil that reaches the top end.  The
valves will get more than enough oil--but run 100% synthetic anyways,
since conventional oil will be slow getting there at cold-startup (just
as a precaution).

You won't be shaving the heads will you, to boost the compression (that
would be the reason for forged pistons, right)?  If you are, I'd suggest
you go to an extreme temp head gasket, such as copper.  I've heard
different stories about copper gaskets--some say they're the greatest,
but others say that they warp heads.  I'd suggest using them, but it's
your call.

What will you be running for a tranny?  If it's auto, go for a stage 2
shift-kit, but I don't want to get into that story right now;  I think
I've written enough as it is, but if you have any more questions, ask.

S. Dave Ward	(Peterborough, Ontario, CANADA)

'78 Delta 88 (350 4bbl.)
'85 Delta 88 (307 4bbl.)
'91 Chev Sierra 4x4 (305 TBI)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 21:58:51 -0400
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Antique Olds

At 08:24 PM 7/17/97 +0100, you wrote:
>Does anyone know the approximate value of a 1929 Oldsmobile f-29 2Dr 
>Sedan in show shape, but driven occasionally?
>
>I am buying one and may be paying too much.

Bob,

That's a tough one, since so few of those cars still exist and change hands.
Just looking at an old Hemmings sitting here, there's a 1917 Olds, a partial
1925, and then the next oldest are a 1934 and a 1935. So if you really want
a 1929 Olds like this one, you may not get another chance for a while. If
you have any reservations about paying the seller's price, answer these
questions for yourself:

1) Do you really want *this* car?
2) Can you afford to pay what's being asked for this car?

and, most importantly,

3) Can you live without this car?

If you can afford it, and you want it, but your life would be just as
complete without it, then stick with your reservations and avoid buying it.

OTOH, if you want it, you can afford it, and it really is the car you're
looking for, the one you've always dreamed about, the one to complete your
collection, then don't quibble about a few $$; when the prices on these cars
starts to range from $15,000 on up, and they trade hands so infrequently,
then *you* become the price guide.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 22:10:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: MEOWIZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: Introduction (very long)

Hey Tom, You May Be a Bit Lengthy, But You Sure Brought Some Tears To My
Eyes!  I Grew Up With My Dad Owning An Olds Dealership (The Day I Went To
Test For My License I Drove Away In A Brand New '78 Cutlass...I'm Pretty Sure
That's What It Was...Memories...!)  There Are Soooo Many Things That Now Have
Passed, IE: DEalership Was Sold In The Past Year, Dad Is Now "Up There" In
Age (All Health Related Too). I See That "Special" Time In My Life Gone.  We
Used To Sing "...And She'll Have Fun, Fun, Fun Till Her Daddy Takes The
Cutlass Away"!  Oh Well, Great Memories!  Thanks For Taking Me Back!
Kris
Meowiz@aol.com 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 21:49:11 -0400
From: jeff antonucci <antonj@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Rare find?!

Chris,

< Anybody need a nice posi? W30 air cleaner? MT setup? Rallye Pack?

I could use an air cleaner and Rallye Pack.

How much?

Jeff Antonucci

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 21:24:55 -0500
From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Subject: Re: Smog Adventure

- ----------
> From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Smog Adventure
> Date: Wednesday, July 16, 1997 11:45 PM
> 
> At 05:05 PM 7/16/97 -0500, you wrote:
> >> OK, enough self-congratulations... In fact, an emissions test based on
> >
> >Also, the ratio of old cars to new cars 100 to 1 maybe. Still the
> >percentages say that it's the new cars that are killing the atmosphere.
> 
> Oh, I agree; I'm sure that all the well-running 20-year old + cars
pollute
> less than all the 7-10 year old cars on the road today, simply due to the
> difference in numbers. That's why I'm opposed to visual inspections for
> emissions tests; many missing parts are difficult if not impossible or
> expensive to replace, and won't improve the emissions of the vehicles
enough
> to be worth it.
> 
> >BTW, I have a theory and maybe some of you chemist out there could shoot
> >some holes in it. I believe the catalytic converters are what is causing
> >most of the acid rain. The smell of sulfur suggest sulfur dioxide which
> >will turn into sulfiric acid when mixed with water vapor. Which in turn
> >condenses and ruins your clearcoat.
> 
> What I don't understand is the Freon thing. I know it serves as a
catalyst
> and all that, but if it, being a pretty heavy gas, is able to make its
way
> to the upper atmosphere and stay there destroying Ozone, then 
> 
> (1) why doesn't all the Ozone we produce here at ground level through
smog
> get broken down by the freon that remains here (I'm sure that not all the
> freon rises; some must stay here, unless they changed that law about
density
> since I was in school- hate when they do that).
> 
> (2) why doesn't the ozone down here also make its way to the upper
> atmosphere to replace what is depleted? Maybe we could just loft all our
> non-A/C gross polluters in weather balloons to the upper atmosphere, so
they
> can pollute and produce ozone up there?
> 
> Maybe that's why I'm not a scientist...
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02
I heard on the radio that every time we send up the space shuttle it
creates the same damage to the ozone layer as dumping 150,000 car air
conditioners. But dont let them catch you dumping one!!!
Some people say freon actually does no damage and the "holes" in the ozone
layer are a natural occurance. Maybe the whole R-12 thing is just another
way to slip in another tax.
Walter

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 22:27:28 -0400
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Oil, race Cutlass!!!!

At 09:53 PM 7/17/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Matt Cremean wrote:
>> BTW- speaking of Mr. Buchman and his engine shop, I'm going to park the
>> Cutlass this winter, pull out the 350, put it on a motor stand,
<snip of rebuild plans>
>> Any suggestions as to what I should put in her besides these:
>> 
>> Comp Cam

Which cam? They list thirty different grinds in their catalog, everything
from very mild economy cams, through hot street cams, up to solid-lifter
full race cams.

>> Manley Valves

The 2.07" intakes/1.71" exhausts? Those'll flow some air, with a compromise
in low-speed runner velocity (i.e. keep it above 2500rpm)

>> Roller Rockers

Never hurts...

>> Forged Pistons

Again, never hurts if you can afford it.

>> Ported/polished Heads

Who'll do the porting? What will their aim in porting be? Matching runners?
Hogging out the ports? Opening up the bowl to complement those big valves?

>> Heddman Hedders

With the RPM range it seems that you're building this for, these might pose
a restriction. You might want to go to a race-type header if you'll be
making power in the 4500-6500rpm range.

>> Edelbrock RPM manifold (maybe)

Maybe a single-plane

>> 750cfm Q-jet (maybe)

Tunable, and used on many Super-Stock class race motors, so no reason one
wouldn't work on yours.

>That little b*tch will go like a bat out of hell--she'll be a 455
>chaser. It'll be making some serious power...I'm guessing 300-325 at a
>minimum.  Buy some stock in Goodyear or Firestone...you're gonna need
>it.

heh... yes he _will_! 

>stronger rods, and stronger rod cap nuts.  If an engine is going to blow
>because of abuse or over-revving, the engine will throw a rod first.

Well, the stock 350 rods are forged, and good ARP bolts will help hold it
together (this is a relatively short-stroke motor, so piston speed is not
the issue it is with the 455's). Of course, everything must be balanced if
this is to live, and with those revs, you may want to look into either a
W-31 or aftermarket balancer. BTW, the 403 rods are stronger than the 350,
and readily available.

>advantage of the wild camshaft.  Will you be re-doing the crank
>bearings?  If it'll be turning 7000+ revs, replacing the bearings is
>strongly suggested.  Consider the alternative, like a chewed crankshaft.

Preparation and assembly will be *everything* with this motor. At those
speeds, the leeway you have for sloppiness vanish very quickly.

>What are you going to do about the lubrication system?  Oldsmobiles are
<snip>are a few ways to get around this problem:  one, try using a Toro oil
>pan--it'll hold an extra litre, but this may not be enough, considering
>you're making one hell of a large upgrade.
>Try an oversized aftermarket oil pan, if you can find one, but you'll

At this point, an 8-quart pan would probably be in order. Milodon and Moroso
make them, as well as the deep-sump pickup. You also might want to consider
modifying the oil drainback holes in the head with an external oil-return
line; it's the slow return here that causes the sump to get sucked dry.

>You won't be shaving the heads will you, to boost the compression (that
>would be the reason for forged pistons, right)?  If you are, I'd suggest
>you go to an extreme temp head gasket, such as copper.  I've heard
>different stories about copper gaskets--some say they're the greatest,
>but others say that they warp heads.  I'd suggest using them, but it's
>your call.

Again, prep will be everything. High-compression pistons and earlier
small-chamber heads would probably be the best way to take advantage of the
bigger cam, since the cylinder pressure with a long-duration cam is pathetic
at low speeds.

>What will you be running for a tranny?  If it's auto, go for a stage 2

Also, you'll need a decent converter to get the engine into its power range,
and something other than the factory-installed highway gears, to keep the
motor in its power range (3.73's or 4.11's would do that for your).
Otherwise your car will define the phrase "unsatisfying modifications".

Of course, if you wanted a more streetable motor on a budget, go with a
milder cam, forget the big valves and forged pistons, and shoot for a
torquey, 1500-4500rpm setup. Really, you have to consider how you are going
to drive it, and then plan the modifications (if any) around that.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Jul 97 21:41:10 CST
From: "Administrator" <Administrator_at_MCIS-Darien@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Message not deliverable

At 09:53 PM 7/17/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Matt Cremean wrote:
>> BTW- speaking of Mr. Buchman and his engine shop, I'm going to park the
>> Cutlass this winter, pull out the 350, put it on a motor stand,
<snip of rebuild plans>
>> Any suggestions as to what I should put in her besides these:
>> 
>> Comp Cam

Which cam? They list thirty different grinds in their catalog, everything
from very mild economy cams, through hot street cams, up to solid-lifter
full race cams.

>> Manley Valves

The 2.07" intakes/1.71" exhausts? Those'll flow some air, with a compromise
in low-speed runner velocity (i.e. keep it above 2500rpm)

>> Roller Rockers

Never hurts...

>> Forged Pistons

Again, never hurts if you can afford it.

>> Ported/polished Heads

Who'll do the porting? What will their aim in porting be? Matching runners?
Hogging out the ports? Opening up the bowl to complement those big valves?

>> Heddman Hedders

With the RPM range it seems that you're building this for, these might pose
a restriction. You might want to go to a race-type header if you'll be
making power in the 4500-6500rpm range.

>> Edelbrock RPM manifold (maybe)

Maybe a single-plane

>> 750cfm Q-jet (maybe)

Tunable, and used on many Super-Stock class race motors, so no reason one
wouldn't work on yours.

>That little b*tch will go like a bat out of hell--she'll be a 455
>chaser. It'll be making some serious power...I'm guessing 300-325 at a
>minimum.  Buy some stock in Goodyear or Firestone...you're gonna need
>it.

heh... yes he _will_! 

>stronger rods, and stronger rod cap nuts.  If an engine is going to blow
>because of abuse or over-revving, the engine will throw a rod first.

Well, the stock 350 rods are forged, and good ARP bolts will help hold it
together (this is a relatively short-stroke motor, so piston speed is not
the issue it is with the 455's). Of course, everything must be balanced if
this is to live, and with those revs, you may want to look into either a
W-31 or aftermarket balancer. BTW, the 403 rods are stronger than the 350,
and readily available.

>advantage of the wild camshaft.  Will you be re-doing the crank
>bearings?  If it'll be turning 7000+ revs, replacing the bearings is
>strongly suggested.  Consider the alternative, like a chewed crankshaft.

Preparation and assembly will be *everything* with this motor. At those
speeds, the leeway you have for sloppiness vanish very quickly.

>What are you going to do about the lubrication system?  Oldsmobiles are
<snip>are a few ways to get around this problem:  one, try using a Toro oil
>pan--it'll hold an extra litre, but this may not be enough, considering
>you're making one hell of a large upgrade.
>Try an oversized aftermarket oil pan, if you can find one, but you'll

At this point, an 8-quart pan would probably be in order. Milodon and Moroso
make them, as well as the deep-sump pickup. You also might want to consider
modifying the oil drainback holes in the head with an external oil-return
line; it's the slow return here that causes the sump to get sucked dry.

>You won't be shaving the heads will you, to boost the compression (that
>would be the reason for forged pistons, right)?  If you are, I'd suggest
>you go to an extreme temp head gasket, such as copper.  I've heard
>different stories about copper gaskets--some say they're the greatest,
>but others say that they warp heads.  I'd suggest using them, but it's
>your call.

Again, prep will be everything. High-compression pistons and earlier
small-chamber heads would probably be the best way to take advantage of the
bigger cam, since the cylinder pressure with a long-duration cam is pathetic
at low speeds.

>What will you be running for a tranny?  If it's auto, go for a stage 2

Also, you'll need a decent converter to get the engine into its power range,
and something other than the factory-installed highway gears, to keep the
motor in its power range (3.73's or 4.11's would do that for your).
Otherwise your car will define the phrase "unsatisfying modifications".

Of course, if you wanted a more streetable motor on a budget, go with a
milder cam, forget the big valves and forged pistons, and shoot for a
torquey, 1500-4500rpm setup. Really, you have to consider how you are going
to drive it, and then plan the modifications (if any) around that.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 23:06:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: BobH592058@aol.com
Subject: September Popular Hot Rodding

The latest PHR has a nice story on the Olds Club of Florida show which was
held the end of April. Pretty nice writeup even if the guy didn't get my name
spelled right.  There's a shot of the engine.  Cool that one part or another
of my car has made the August Car Craft Reader's Rides and the September PHR.
 It's _very_ nice to see your car in a national mag even if it's only in
black and white. The car has lots of yellow, red and black. Neither I nor my
car will ever be confused with an introvert. :-)

I like the last line of the PHR piece which says something to the effect "And
who says we only cover C*evys?"

There are a few other mistakes in the PHR piece. Like, it wasn't a little
rain - it was a DELUGE.  And the judging wasn't finished before the rain.  I
gave one judge the "web foot award" for being out in it the longest.  All our
judges did a great job for a first time shot with OCA rules.

And I am sure Bob Anderson will be surprised to learn that he has one of
those very, very rare '67 H/O's. :-0     Actually It's a '69.  The "Comotion"
name on the car refers to the original owner/racer.  It was built by Motion
Performance in Baldwin, Long Island, New York.  Yup, that's the same Motion
which made some killer C*evy cars.  They actually ran a '69 H/O as well.  It
ran in the 10's and Bob has left it as is, including the slicks, which must
be hard as rocks by now.  It is unchanged since it was retired from racing in
the 70's.  It even still has the "O" rear, and lots of cobwebs. Sounds REAL
healthy.  Nice special interest car with a unique history.

Lots of folks don't remember that many of the 68 and 69 H/O's were dedicated
to the drag strip and built as strippers for that purpose.  This is one of
them.

Tom Ogan's car is mentioned too.  Even for a C*evy powered Olds, it is
righteous ride. And I mean ride as he drives it everywhere, with his little
dog. I hope he comes to next year's show - with a 455 OLDS ROCKET.  Hint,
Hint.

Bob Handren        OCA/OCF# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 22:02:10 +0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: Hurst package

Charles F. Kemp wrote:
> 
> Dear Sirs,
>  I am the proud owner of a 1967 442. This car has a factory installed Hurst
> 4-speed transmission. I would like to find out:1.was this a pre-version of
> the Hurst Olds packages that would appear a few years later? and 2.how many
> 442's were made like mine? or 3.was my car simply ordered like this by the
> dealer and the only shifter offered at the time on 442's was the Hurst?
> Thank you very much for any information.
> Fred Kemp

Fred,

The Hurst shifter was standard on 442's that year & later.  This was
one  of the benefits of owning a premium car like an Olds.  My '68 has
one.  Even the 3-speeds had this type shifter.  Hurst got famous w/these
things & his other racing parts.  His name meant speed & sales in the
60's & 70's.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 23:11:41 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Need a few parts...

At 09:46 PM 7/17/97 -0500, you wrote:
Mike

        We have the two pieces your looking for. How's $10.00 each sound?
Let us know.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts
(757) 474-0869


>>Back up Lamp assembly, RH side, mine is shot...
>>
>>RH Turn signal lamp assembly, RH side, again, mine is shot...
>
>Ooops, sorry for the confusion...
>
>This is for my 72' Cutlass S. RH Turn signal lanp assembly is for the 
>front bumper.
>
>Regards,
>Mike
>
>
>Michael R. Hall                                Ortonville, Michigan
>Home E-Mail: oldsmike@flash.net
>The Oldsmobile Stable:
>     1971 Oldsmobile 442, A Work In Progress...    
>     1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S, 380 horses of pure Mondello fun...
>     1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm, the classy one...
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 23:12:56 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Rare find?!

At 09:49 PM 7/17/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Chris,
>
>< Anybody need a nice posi? W30 air cleaner? MT setup? Rallye Pack?
>
>I could use an air cleaner and Rallye Pack.
>
Chris
        How much for the Manual trans? Is it a M21 or a M20?

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 23:18:14 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Hurst package

At 08:46 PM 7/17/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Hey Jim,
> Thanks alot for the information.I wished my 442 was a W-30 also,but don't 
>worry, I'll keep it original.
>Fred Kemp
>

Fred

        I've just started getting backinto the older cars. I've had a glut
of 70-72 cars. I have now fell into 3 67's in the last two weeks. My W-30 is
what they call a Track-Pac car. I bought it from the original owner who
worked for a Olds dealer and got a new W-30 every year to drag race. In 67
they had a hard time getting one so they converted a std 442 Coupe into the
W-30 using over the counter parts. Other than the lack of red fenderwells it
looks exactly the same. A friend of mine just found me a set of the
fenderwells. It will never considered a real on anyway. The car was built in
Framingham Mass. instead of Lansing where all the W cars were built. Let me
know if you have any questions or need anything. Thanks.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 22:59:06 -0400
From: pteubel@imail.safety1st.com (Peter Teubel)
Subject: Re: Remove

     I think someone go ahold of the OML roster.  You not the only one 
     who's been SPAMMED.
     
     - Pete
     '51 98
     '82 98
     '86 Ciera


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Remove
Author:  "Robert K. Whitaker" <whitaker.rob@worldnet.att.net> at imail
Date:    7/17/97 5:39 PM
     
- ----------
From:   extractor@t-1net.com[SMTP:extractor@t-1net.com] 
Sent:   Wednesday, July 16, 1997 11:41 PM
To:     extractor@t-1net.com
Subject:        Never Pay for Advertising Again.
     
Since you are doing business on the 'net, you know that properly 
targeting your advertising messages can be pretty tough.  And banner 
ads are still way too expensive
     
     {BIG SNIP}

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 00:08:33 -0400 (EDT)
From: Oldsparts@aol.com
Subject: Re: '69 H/O Convertibles

John- One of our customers has Linda Vaughns old 69 convert in Iowa.  If he
ever sends pics I'll have Bryce post them!   Steve

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 00:41:37 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Oil, race Cutlass!!!!

Wow! Quite the resonse on that one. I won't make the cam too radical.
Something probably in the 5000-5500 RPM range. I'm just putting all
these parts in because I can say I have them and they will keep my car
running nice 'n' smooth. I really don't want to turn this thing into a
daily top-fueler either! I just want it to be (pardon me, ladies)
titties (Blissfield lingo).
	So, forged pistons are a waste of money unless I'm going to run
Nitrous? What kind of pistons whould I get. Trust me, I'm tearing this
puppy limb from limb, adn whatever Buchman says I should put in, I'll
put in. This guy really knows what he's doing. He ain't no benchracer,
that's for damn sure!
	And the bigger oil system is a good idea too huh? In response to the
drivetrain, I'll be running the TH350, probably get a heftier shift-kit
later. Right now, I'm aiming for a new exhaust system and that Powertrax
Locker. We're talking November-March for the engine project. The car
will not be driven in the snow. I'll get a beater. Any suggestions on
that. I was thinking I'd like a F*rd to beat the hell outa!

- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
Ev_Corp Main Admin.
delta_v plug G/S/O Admin.
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoft© Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 01:49:53 -0400
From: "Jon" <latvis@globalserve.net>
Subject: Re: '69 H/O Convertibles

- ----------
> From: Oldsparts@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: '69 H/O Convertibles
> Date: piektdiena, 1997. gada 18. jûlijs 0:08
> 
> John- One of our customers has Linda Vaughns old 69 convert in Iowa. 

WOW!  Must be nice to actually own one the rarest and by my opinion the
nicest Olds in existence.  What sort of shape is it in?  Would he ever
consider selling it?  Probably way out of my price range, but curous to
know the value of these beasts.  Does he have an Email addie?  If so, give
him my address and ask him to get in touch with me, I'd love to find out
more details about the car.

>  If he ever sends pics I'll have Bryce post them!

> Steve

Thanks,
________________________________________________________
Jon Gulbis
'85 Cutlass Supreme
'72 Norton chopper

Drop me a line at: latvis@globalserve.net
See my resume at: 
http://www.globalserve.net/~latvis/computing/resume.html

(Olds page soon to be constructed)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 04:37:03 -0400
From: "DAVID  BETZ" <dbetz@netwalk.com>
Subject: Need convertible top drive cable

I desperately need a driver's side drive cable for my 1972 Delta 88
convertible top.  Preferably NOS because the aftermarket I bought last year
didn't last very long.  Bought two for the other side last year at a swap
meet for $10 each and hope to find a deal like that again.  But, If anyone
has one out there I can buy please let me know.

David Betz
dbetz@netwalk.com 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 13:35:12 +0300
From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.fi>
Subject: I'm back !

Hi there.

Got a bunch of old's digests in my mailbox. Will read them at home
tonight.

A lot has happened during this month.

A careless VOL*O driver spoiled my day by crushing his rear
bumber on Niny's backdoor. Luckily nothing was destroyed beound
repair in our grand lady. The Vol*o's rear bumber was a real mess
though. The ensurance company (we happened to have the same one)
promised to cover all expenses on repair of our Olds but NOT the
Vol*o's rear bumber. HA !

We are moving from the town to countryside. The new house has
a warm garage. (Bama-Bill, remember the engine !!!) The drawback
of this otherwise good thing is that we can't afford coming to
Lansing. It was not an easy decision to make. Anyway, we choose
to have a decent house with good garage to put the Niny back
in shape.

Another "drawback" is that my job will be at 80 km distance. Not
actually a drawback since the company installs good (fast)
connection (ISDN) and I can work at home. This allows me to
choose the working hours as I wish.

We bought a ch*vy sc*tts*ale for a daily driver during the time
the Niny is "under construction". To not to be completely
unfaithful it has an Olds 455 under the hood. It is a real
sleeper as it is VERY rusty and has all the "diesel" logos on.
Don't like it though.

Later....

- -- 
Esko & Anneli Ilola

Mail:  Flintstensstigen 7B5     Tel: +358 2040 3439
       01610 VANDA FINLAND           +358 40 5575 116

Email: esko.ilola@tele.fi         \\\___
                              0\\\  o  ;/\\
Oldsmobile Ninety Eight       \\        \/ \
1964 4D HT                    //////\ //\   \
Holiday Sports Sedan                // \\   \

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 06:39:11 +0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: I'm back !

Esko Ilola wrote:
> 
> Hi there.
> 
> Got a bunch of old's digests in my mailbox. Will read them at home
> tonight.
> 
> A lot has happened during this month.
> 
> A careless VOL*O driver spoiled my day by crushing his rear
> bumber on Niny's backdoor. Luckily nothing was destroyed beound
> repair in our grand lady. The Vol*o's rear bumber was a real mess
> though. The ensurance company (we happened to have the same one)
> promised to cover all expenses on repair of our Olds but NOT the
> Vol*o's rear bumber. HA !
> 
> We are moving from the town to countryside. The new house has
> a warm garage. (Bama-Bill, remember the engine !!!) The drawback
> of this otherwise good thing is that we can't afford coming to
> Lansing. It was not an easy decision to make. Anyway, we choose
> to have a decent house with good garage to put the Niny back
> in shape.
> 
> Another "drawback" is that my job will be at 80 km distance. Not
> actually a drawback since the company installs good (fast)
> connection (ISDN) and I can work at home. This allows me to
> choose the working hours as I wish.
> 
> We bought a ch*vy sc*tts*ale for a daily driver during the time
> the Niny is "under construction". To not to be completely
> unfaithful it has an Olds 455 under the hood. It is a real
> sleeper as it is VERY rusty and has all the "diesel" logos on.
> Don't like it though.
> 
> Later....
> 
> --
> Esko & Anneli Ilola
> 
> Mail:  Flintstensstigen 7B5     Tel: +358 2040 3439
>        01610 VANDA FINLAND           +358 40 5575 116
> 
> Email: esko.ilola@tele.fi         \\\___
>                               0\\\  o  ;/\\
> Oldsmobile Ninety Eight       \\        \/ \
> 1964 4D HT                    //////\ //\   \
> Holiday Sports Sedan                // \\   \

Esko,

Welcome back.  It is nice to hear that you are moving to the country. 
Which country is it?  I'm sorry that I won't see you in Lansing. 
Possibly we can meet at the next 100.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

P.S.  I will try to help w/the engine all I can.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 03:19:41 -0700
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: quartz clock conversions

william goodnight wrote:
> 
> I am looking for someone to convert my '49 Olds clock to quartz.  The only
> source I have is the Clock Doc in Tennessee.   Does anyone have other
> sources with 800 #'s?

I have a 1968 clock that I would like to convert myself.  Does anyone
know of a kit I could purchase myself?

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 08:12:36  -0400
From: scott or sharon <jerdan@erols.com>
Subject: RE:Cost for engine rebuild

> I am considering having the engine on my 68 442 rebuilt in the Phoenix
> area and have been getting estimates from various engine builders. I am
> looking for a "basic" rebuild with hardened valve seats added and no
> significant performance modifications.  I have recieved estimates from
> $1,200 to $4,500.  What is a fair price for a rebuild and does anyone
> have any recommondations in the Phoenix area ?
> 
> Thanks for any help
> 
> Craig Smith

Craig,

I would think something around $2500 for a longblock rebuild.  This depends
on what you want/need done.  Bead blasting, balancing, new parts instead of
reusing old, etc. can add up.  Also talk to your local olds club members see
what they recommend/have experienced.  Another source of information is the
local tracks.  Look for a shop with a good reputation.  Also look for a shop
that is helpful, friendly, etc., you may want to go back from time to time
for advice or help.

Scott Jerdan
70 W-30 442 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 09:34:23 -0400
From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
Subject: RE: Olds Nats Trip Report + noisy rockers/lifters

Yes, as a matter of fact it has received a valvejob, about 10K miles ago from a
previous owner.  I just purchased the car.  Judging by the quality of work done
in other areas of the car by the previous owner I'd agree that its entirely
possible that when the valvejob was done, they may have missed some clearances
and not gotten the pushrod length exactly right.  Mondello points this out as a
common problem with valvejobs in his tech ref manual.  As you suggested I've
also considered worn pedestals/fulcrums, etc.  So, I guess my plan of attack is
as follows:

1.  Check torque on rockers/pedestals.  Make sure they're all at 20 (I'll check
that number.)

2.  Check wear on pedestals/fulcrums.  Replace if necessary.

3.  Then, if above doesn't do it, we're into the lifter replacement option,
which if I have to go that far, I'll seriously consider getting into the major
mightaswells, such as a complete redo of my heads, meaning a mild port job, new
springs, 3 angle valvejob, the CompCams adjustable kit.

So thats the plan.  I've never opened this engine, so that should be
interesting if nothing else....

Todd Morris
71 442

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 09:15:09 -0500
From: kovalj@dave-world.net (Justin Koval)
Subject: Cutlass for sale..earlyier models..

My friend where I work has a 1984 Cutlass Supreme for sale..I have not
looked at it to much..was gonna buy it..he is asking 2,000 for it... But \I
just bought a stock car instead..stupid me/...anyways...It looks nice..I did
notice that the upholstry on the drivers seat was ripped...Drivers side a
bit banged up...It has  fairly small mark on the back..and a ding in the
rear (clipped a telephone pole while racing!)  It is not really a bad car..

And two finds at Ace Auto Salvage in Tonica, Illinois...

either a 71 or 71 Cutlass four door.. engine is good..bumpers bad..pretty
well stripped down..but has all four of the taillights..whish we could of
found those a year ago!!( someone stole ours..had to order some more!)
Maybe there is something you want....

A 1987 Cutlass supreme.....Front end banged up..motor is good..radio is
gone...ignition is gone...Looks fairly good..is asking 575..was gonna be my
stock car, but got a differnet one..he wants to move to Arizona, so maybe he
will cut you a deal..

then an olds Delta 88 Diesal..did not lok at it to much, know nothing about
it...


Justin Koval
1972 Cutlass Supreme..the one with the rust in frame...

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 10:25:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: Don Foster <dfoster@uky.campus.mci.net>
Subject: Overheating!!!!

 I just bought a 1971 Cutlass S (hybrid). It has a 1976 455 engine with a
cam like would have been in a 1970 W-30 according to the last owner. There
is a 1968 Chevelle rearend under it with 3:36 gears. Turbo 400 transmission.
The factory tach. was running 4500 r.p.m.s at 55 m.p.h. / That seems high to
me. I'm putting an aftermarket tach. in today to verify these r.p.m.s. 
 The overheating seems to be the greatest at or above 55 m.p.h. / On a 90
degree day water temp. will rise to around 230 degrees. At 80 degrees at
night it runs around 215 degrees. Seems to hang around 190 to 200 in town.
I've replaced the aftermarket 3 core radiator with a 4 core and it did'nt
help a thing. There are 2 electric fans in front of the radiator and
needless to say, I run them almost all the time. 160 t-stat is working. I'm
leaning towards pulling the rearend and putting an Olds rearend with 2:57
gears. Any questions, comments or concerns would be appreciated. Thanks, Don

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 11:06:41 -0400 (EDT)
From: BobH592058@aol.com
Subject: 67 442 Production

<< I don't have production for 4-speed cars but, here are some 67 production
numbers
sport coupes    4751   (129 w-30's)
holiday coupes 16998 (373 w-30's)
convertibles      3080   (?    w-30's)>>

There were _no_ 67 convertible W-30's, nor any '66 either.

Remember the batteries for W-30 cars in 66-67 were in the trunk on the right
side kickup.  That left no place for the convertible top frame to drop into
when lowering the top.

I have seen several ads in Hemmings with someone trying to sell a "rare 67
W-30 convertible".  Sure is rare, it's a fake.

Speaking of fakes, how many of you remember the bogus 72 442 for sale down
this way (Central Florida).  There was no "X" in the VIN.

Well, I saw the car at a cruise last month, with a new owner.  The area of
the windshield over the VIN plate was blacked out, making is a little tough
to spot the VIN.  So that's a new one, if you can't have a real 72 442 VIN,
just make it invisible.  

The new owner wasn't there.  I hope he didn't pay too much for the car.

Nice car, looked great. But still bogus.

Bob Handren        OCA/OCF# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 11:45:57 -0400
From: Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
Subject: '84 307 V8 locked up/ LeSabre Limited value

Well, I witnessed my first Olds engine failure. A good friend has a 1984
Buick LeSabre Limited with Olds 307 V8 with 145,000 miles on it.  It ran
flawlessly until last week.  It started to run rough and after a couple of
days it started stalling.  He got it home and it wouldn't crank even when
jumped.  I checked oil and it was 3 quarts high from antifreeze leak.  I
pulle the plugs and #8 cylinder plug was destroyed.  Looks like someone hit
it with a hammer 1000 times.  I was able to turn it by hand with lots of
effort but the damage was already done.  It looks like coolant ran into #8
cylinder and hydro-locked it.  I assume it is probably the infamous intake
manifold leak?????  
     Anyways, my question is - what is the best way to fix this?  The car
is in good condition - a little rust but no holes.  Everything works (power
seats, windows, mirrors, A/C, etc.)  It seams like it is worth fixing but
should we replace with rebuilt 307, replace with used 350, replace with
rebuilt 350.  I don't know what the car would be worth if it was fixed
because of its age.  Anyone know what this is worth with good engine vs.
bad engine?  Thanks

Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma Plant
Transmission Division (4T60/65-E) - Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com
The statements and opinions expressed here are NOT an official
statement of General Motors or the GM Powertrain Division

'97 Chevy Blazer LT 4x4 4.3L V6    '96 DCM Impala SS 5.7L V8 
'87 Olds Cutlass 442 307 V8        '61 GMC 1500 Fleetside 305 V6  

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 06:28:24 -0400
From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Subject: Re: Cost for engine rebuild

	Craig,

		You might want to try "Klein Racing Engines". From what I can
remember, a guy by the name of Rich Powers works there, he use to work and race
for Oldsmobile in the late 60's and early 70's.

       ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
          Mark Cornea (Dr Decal) `70 W30 stick ~ Red (of course)

           (drdecal@juno.com) or (mcornea@pt8244.pto.ford.com)

            OCA# 4903
       	    OPC# 14
       ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

>
> I am considering having the engine on my 68 442 rebuilt in the Phoenix
> area and have been getting estimates from various engine builders. I am
> looking for a "basic" rebuild with hardened valve seats added and no
> significant performance modifications.  I have recieved estimates from
> $1,200 to $4,500.  What is a fair price for a rebuild and does anyone
> have any recommondations in the Phoenix area ?
>
> Thanks for any help
>
> Craig Smith
>
>
>-- End of excerpt from Craig J. Smith

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 11:07:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: DOUGLAS JEFFREY CULLEN SCARLETT - DIXO - 84786 <ac84786@umav04.udem.edu.mx>
Subject: 84' Regency 98 handling improvements

I recently purchased an 84' Regency 98 that is in near new condition.  The 
one problem is that it's the worst handling car I have ever driven.  Are 
there any cost-effective ways to tighten up the handling some?

Doug Cullen

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 13:29:53 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: RE: Olds Nats Trip Report + noisy rockers/lifters

On Fri, 18 Jul 1997, Todd Morris wrote:
> So, I guess my plan of attack is as follows:
> 1.  Check torque on rockers/pedestals.  Make sure they're all at 20 (I'll check
> that number.)
> 2.  Check wear on pedestals/fulcrums.  Replace if necessary.
> 3.  Then, if above doesn't do it, we're into the lifter replacement option,
> which if I have to go that far, I'll seriously consider getting into the major
> mightaswells, such as a complete redo of my heads, meaning a mild port job, new
> springs, 3 angle valvejob, the CompCams adjustable kit.

Todd, my '68 350 had many of the same exact symptoms as you describe. I 
replaced the lifters first, thinking that had to be it. In retrospect 
knowing what I know now I would have started with the rockers & pedestals 
first. It is not only easier, but I think the more likely sourse of the 
problem. Mine showed very little visible wear, but replacing them made a 
world of difference. Doing the lifters is a whole lot more involved, 
requiring much more time and effort.

Interestingly, mine also has the same minor exhaust leak sound too. I 
haven't yet been able to track it down exactly. Not a serious enough 
annoyance... yet!

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 12:57:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: PaulP34167@aol.com
Subject: Re: Good Headers-please read!

In a message dated 97-07-15 18:50:44 EDT, you write:

> I really don't want "pretty" either. What's the use of the ceramic
>  coating? What does it do? I just really want functionality, but if
>  they'll look good for awhile, that'd be nice too.
 
I may be wrong, but I think the ceramic coating may provide a heat barrier
and also provide corrosion resistance.

Paul Pate
70 Cutlass S
84 Camaro LG4

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 10:01:52 -0700
From: enowacki@titan.com (Erik Nowacki)
Subject: Re: Overheating!!!!

Congratulations on your new acquisition.  As for your overheating problem,
since the overheating seems to occur at speed and you have a new radiator,
it seems to indicate inadequate coolant flow.  I would check the radiator
hoses to see if they have colapsed.  Otherwise, I would replace the
waterpump and hoses.

Other sources of overheating could be that your timing is off, but I don't
know if that would be severe enough to cause it to overheat even with a 4
core radiator.

My 72 Vista Cruiser with factory 455 and HD cooling package rarely breaks
170 on a 100 degree day in San Diego.

Erik Nowacki
1972 Vista Cruiser




> The overheating seems to be the greatest at or above 55 m.p.h. / On a 90
>degree day water temp. will rise to around 230 degrees. At 80 degrees at
>night it runs around 215 degrees. Seems to hang around 190 to 200 in town.
>I've replaced the aftermarket 3 core radiator with a 4 core and it did'nt
>help a thing. There are 2 electric fans in front of the radiator and
>needless to say, I run them almost all the time. 160 t-stat is working. I'm
>leaning towards pulling the rearend and putting an Olds rearend with 2:57
>gears. Any questions, comments or concerns would be appreciated. Thanks, Don
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 10:01:52 -0700
From: enowacki@titan.com (Erik Nowacki)
Subject: Re: Overheating!!!!

Congratulations on your new acquisition.  As for your overheating problem,
since the overheating seems to occur at speed and you have a new radiator,
it seems to indicate inadequate coolant flow.  I would check the radiator
hoses to see if they have colapsed.  Otherwise, I would replace the
waterpump and hoses.

Other sources of overheating could be that your timing is off, but I don't
know if that would be severe enough to cause it to overheat even with a 4
core radiator.

My 72 Vista Cruiser with factory 455 and HD cooling package rarely breaks
170 on a 100 degree day in San Diego.

Erik Nowacki
1972 Vista Cruiser




> The overheating seems to be the greatest at or above 55 m.p.h. / On a 90
>degree day water temp. will rise to around 230 degrees. At 80 degrees at
>night it runs around 215 degrees. Seems to hang around 190 to 200 in town.
>I've replaced the aftermarket 3 core radiator with a 4 core and it did'nt
>help a thing. There are 2 electric fans in front of the radiator and
>needless to say, I run them almost all the time. 160 t-stat is working. I'm
>leaning towards pulling the rearend and putting an Olds rearend with 2:57
>gears. Any questions, comments or concerns would be appreciated. Thanks, Don
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 10:14:38 -0700
From: Brad Bowles <wolds@napanet.net>
Subject: Re: Overheating!!!!

Don Foster wrote:
> 
>  I just bought a 1971 Cutlass S (hybrid). It has a 1976 455 engine with a
> cam like would have been in a 1970 W-30 according to the last owner. There
> is a 1968 Chevelle rearend under it with 3:36 gears. Turbo 400 transmission.
> The factory tach. was running 4500 r.p.m.s at 55 m.p.h. / That seems high to
> me. I'm putting an aftermarket tach. in today to verify these r.p.m.s.
>  The overheating seems to be the greatest at or above 55 m.p.h. / On a 90
> degree day water temp. will rise to around 230 degrees. At 80 degrees at
> night it runs around 215 degrees. Seems to hang around 190 to 200 in town.
> I've replaced the aftermarket 3 core radiator with a 4 core and it did'nt
> help a thing. There are 2 electric fans in front of the radiator and
> needless to say, I run them almost all the time. 160 t-stat is working. I'm
> leaning towards pulling the rearend and putting an Olds rearend with 2:57
> gears. Any questions, comments or concerns would be appreciated. Thanks, Don
I read about this trick in a Summit catalog...
Take out the thermostat and drill small holes around the outer ring so
more water can flow through.  If it doesn't work, it was worth the small
amount of $ to try.  If it does, then you saved yourself a new rear end.
Brad

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 12:18:16 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Subject: Re: 84' Regency 98 handling improvements

Hi Doug,

> I recently purchased an 84' Regency 98 that is in near new condition.  The 
> one problem is that it's the worst handling car I have ever driven.  Are 
> there any cost-effective ways to tighten up the handling some?

1984 was the last year a RWD C-body Olds was built.  Fortunately, this
chassis is almost identical to the B-cars, on which the Ch*v 9C1's (police
cars) are built.  I'd recommend adding a 26mm rear stabilizer bar, the
largest GM offering.  If your Olds isn't already equipped with a rear bar,
you will need to add the mounting brackets to the rear lower control arms.
I wouldn't bother touching the front stabilizer bar, as the original
suspension was set up for chronic understeer, and putting anything thicker
up front will only aggravate this.  If you wish to do something more
radical, Hotchkiss and Herb Adams offer larger diameter stabilizer bars. 

A set of Bilstein or Koni shocks will certainly reduce the amount of
suspension float.   Does your 98 have automatic level control?   If so,
it will have air adjustable shocks on the rear suspension.  Are they
original?  AC-Delco replacements will be firmer.  I've had enormous
success using deCarbon shocks (OEM on the Imp*la SS) on the front end of 2
cars similar to your 98.  I obtained them for a discounted price of $60
Cdn ($44 U.S.), which is a bit less than the $75 U.S. for the
Bilsteins/Konis.  The deCarbons have eliminated any trace of front end
wallow, while at the same time, provide a non-jarring, steady, comfortable
ride due to the deflected disc valving.

Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 10:13:18 -0700
From: enowacki@titan.com (Erik Nowacki)
Subject: Re: 84' Regency 98 handling improvements

>I recently purchased an 84' Regency 98 that is in near new condition.  The 
>one problem is that it's the worst handling car I have ever driven.  Are 
>there any cost-effective ways to tighten up the handling some?
>
>Doug Cullen
>
On my previous Vista Cruiser (may she rest in peace), I replaced the rear
springs and shocks which made a HUGE improvement in handling.  My alignment
shop told me that they used some kind of "cargo spring" that supposedly was
heavier duty than stock.  Whatever it was it really worked.  I would
recommend that you get new heavy duty rear springs and replace the shocks at
all 4 corners.

Erik Nowacki
1972 Vista Cruiser

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 13:19:51 -0400 (EDT)
From: PaulP34167@aol.com
Subject: Re: Secondary Metering Rods

In a message dated 97-07-16 04:51:39 EDT, you write:

> >> Correct.  Try richer rods.
>  >> 
>  >Thanks for the advice Paul.  I went down to the local carb shop (old guy
>  [snip]
>  >that the books don't list the secondary rods by code, like they do
>  >primary rods, and there's no rhyme or reason that he's ever seen to the
>  >codes.  So he can't tell what rods would be richer.  The rods I have now
>  >are stamped DA, can anyone here (maybe somebody who ordered that big set
>  >of carb books?) tell me what the next richest rod (or two) would be?  
>  
>  Well, the "big carb book" doesn't list them either, but that's only one of
>  the essential books you'd want; the other is Roe's "Rochester Carburetor",
>  which has a chart listing the different secondary rods by code and part
>  number, along with their diameter at different throttle openings. Of
course,
>  this makes it a bit tedious to find out the *richest* rod (there are
dozens
>  listed), as some will be richer than others sooner, but not get as rich as
>  the others would eventually get. What would be nice is to have a
>  spreadsheet, from which you could graph the profile of the rod and compare
>  profiles.

Maybe someone (not me) could make a spreadsheet and send it to those who
would like it.  I also have this book (Rochester Carburetors ISBN
0-89586-301-4) and highly recommend it.  You could also find a different rod
hanger with hanger holes that are placed higher than the original.  This
would lift the rods higher out of the orifice.  You don't want to go too far
though or you will be covering the car you just beat with a cloud of black
smoke.  These hangers are marked B through V with B hanging the lowest and V
the highest.  I think I run a K in my Olds... can't remember.  You can also
drill another hole in your existing hanger, if you have room.

Paul Pate
70 Cutlass S (350-4V, 3.08 diff., TH350)
84 Camaro (305-4V, 3.08 diff., 700R4, low options)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 14:30:14 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: New Addition to the Family... ;-)

I'm pleased to announce the addition of another Oldsmobile to the 
ranks... I bought the '78 Delta I mentioned here the other day. It's my 
new grocery-getter car, enabling me to retire the Cutlass to a life of 
pampered luxury.

Here's my take on what I've bought:

Pluses:
- - Very nice drivetrain (350 Rocket/TH350), mechanicals seem good
- - Solid body, not bad paint either, nice vinyl roof (dark red/dark red)
- - Rides well, very peppy
- - Interior presentable (see below)
- - Only approx. 66K miles
- - The price was right :)

Minuses:
- - Needs front armrests (drivers is tattered, passengers not so bad); also 
B-pillar trim is cracked and shoulder harness frayed  on drivers side. 
Rest of interior fine, shows only normal wear.
- - Not much in the way of options - AM radio(gotta find an AM/FM at least), 
cruise, remote mirror (currently cockeyed, gotta check), rear defogger
- - Aftermarket faux-wire wheel covers (gotta replace those eventually)
- - Front springs seem a little saggy (have to admit I didn't notice this 
until I got it home... :o)
- - Couple of minor dings, nothing major
- - Dash lights barely work (discovered this when I got it home last night, 
only odometer seems illuminated, hope its not the horror show that has 
been posted here this week)
- - Could use front tires

Some questions:

Re. the tires, they are 235/70R15 all around right now. Are the originals 
supposed to be 215/75R15? 

Re. the dash lights, how do you access them to check/change them? Are 
they the wedgy #194 bulbs?

Any idea where I could pick up a '78 factory service manual cheap?
 
I'm sure these are only the first of many questions I'll have... stay 
tuned! Thanks in advance.


Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 10:13:29 -0800
From: Dan Lacey <lacey@dsea.com>
Subject: Re: Smog Adventure

>Took my '67 Delta 88 in for its smog check (California).  Bought the car 4
>yrs. ago, have put 7k miles on it (up to 67,000) and haven't touched a
>thing in all that time other then oil changes.
>
>Bone stock - original cobwebs, etc.  It looks like its been frozen in time
>under the hood except for the new air conditioning compressor.  Every
>mechanic in the place came by to look it over ("Oldsmobile?" like they
>didn't make em in '67 - sheeeesh) comment, etc.  All favorable.
>
>They put it on the machine (after letting it sit & idle & load up) - run it
>through the test.
>Passes fine.  Take the print out up to the counter & the guys start looking
>it over.  The amount of exhaust gasses (or whatever they call it) allowable
>smog? increases per year with the State (how generous of them, hmm?)
>anyway, the guys look at it and the one goes "hey, whats the allowable
>level for the new cars?"  My THIRTY YEAR OLD beast passed within a hairs
>breadth of the NEW car limits!
>
>HA!  Four hundred twenty five cubic inches of Detroit iron, after thirty
>years, putting out the same exhaust emissions as a new DISPOSABLE energy
>efficient import!!**@@##*!!  And putting out over 360 hp?
>
>Now what does that say?
>
>I was quite proud of her.  We both smiled all the way home.
>
>
>Lisa Madsen
>


Congrats!!!!!

On another note, if you change ANYTHING on your car, it will not pass
visual inspection. This eliminates the ability to use new more efficient
technology. You cannot for instance put EFI on your car (correct me if I'm
wrong). I was having trouble with my Toyota carb. (The variable venturi
piece o s*&t!), and I can ONLY replace it with a Toyota carb ($500+). It
doesn't matter if I use some other carb and get better emmissions/mpg.

Signed,

Frustrated and ONLY buying pre 1966 cars from now on...


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 13:43:24 -0700
From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Subject: Re: New Addition to the Family... ;-)

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
> 
> I'm pleased to announce the addition of another Oldsmobile to the
> ranks... I bought the '78 Delta I mentioned here the other day. 

Whew!  What a quest THAT has been.  Congratulations.

BTW, I saw an Andrea Beaulieu on a local TV station the other day.  
Any relation?  Prolly not.  She WAS good lookin'   ;)

    66 Toro 
The /\   /\ and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 13:49:36 -0700
From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Subject: Re: Smog Adventure

Dan Lacey wrote:
> 
> Frustrated and ONLY buying pre 1966 cars from now on...

Move.  In Florida, the rules start with the 1975 model year.  :)
 
    66 Toro 
The /\   /\ and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 14:28:12 -0400
From: pteubel@imail.safety1st.com (Peter Teubel)
Subject: Re[2]: Smog Adventure

     Nah...try Mass.  Anything over 15yrs old is *EXEMPT* from *ALL* 
     emission testing.  I'm glad 'cause my '82 98 has a free breathing 403 
     (converted from diesel before I got it).
     
     - Pete
     '51 98
     '82 98
     '86 Ciera


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Smog Adventure
Author:  Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com> at imail
Date:    7/18/97 1:49 PM


Dan Lacey wrote:
> 
> Frustrated and ONLY buying pre 1966 cars from now on...
     
Move.  In Florida, the rules start with the 1975 model year.  :)
     
    66 Toro 
The /\   /\ and Mike
     
     
- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication 
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/
     

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #762
********************************

