To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #748


oldsmobile-digest        Monday, July 14 1997        Volume 01 : Number 748



Re: dash pads
Re: spacer for door striker bolt
1961 Right Outer Tie Rod - Thompson needed
Re: 1961 Right Outer Tie Rod - Thompson needed
Re: spacer for door striker bolt
Re: dash pads
Re: 1961 Right Outer Tie Rod - Thompson needed
W-30 vs LS6
Re: w30 bdy parts
RE: Olds Natl's - Best in Show
Re: W-30 vs LS6
unsubscribe
Re: Delco 6x9 Speakers
Re: 3.4L V6, high rev when starting
Missed a bargain
Re: What is the correct thermostat temp?
RE: 3.4L V6, high rev when starting
Re: UNBOUNCE: tree sap
Re: Olds Natl's - Best in Show
Re: UNBOUNCE: tree sap
Re: Re: UNBOUNCE: tree sap
Oldsmobile Club of Canada Summer Nationals
Updating a 1970 442 W-30
Re: spacer for door striker bolt
Re: spacer for door striker bolt
Body mount bolts
Car Craft Summer Cruise - St. Paul MN
Rebuilding an engine
Re: W-30 vs LS6
Re: cam profiles
Re: Non-Olds - But What's It Worth?
Re: New Carb = No Power ?
Re: More Car-buying Adventures...
Re: Re-introduction
Re: Rebuilding an engine
Updated web page
Message not deliverable
Re: Updating a 1970 442 W-30
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----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 13:54:05 -0400
From: "MROTHE" <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: dash pads

> Does anyone know how to remove a dash pad (upper part) from a dash
> board?  Better yet how about removing the dash board?  Let me know....
>
I assume it is a 68 Cutlass?  The main dash (metal) is welded in.  To get
that part out, you would have to take out the upper/lower dash assembly.
Now, to do that, locate all the wiring on the back of guages and
accessories, and remove it, as well as the glove box door and glovebox
liner.  You also need to take out the speedometer cable from the
speedometer.   Then, at various points around the perimeter, loosen and
remove (I think 3/8" or 7/16" nuts from the dash studs.  I advise at this
point to remove the steering wheel and drop the steering column to allow
for better clearance for removal.  It would be extremely wise to consult an
assembly manual for this.  I'm at work now, but if you want, I can send a
couple of pictures tomorrow from the assembly manual showing the locations
of the dash screws.  E-mail me privately if you want this done.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 15:05:31 +0600
From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Subject: Re: spacer for door striker bolt

>Hello all, I was wondering how hard would it be to obtain the spacer that
>fits over the striker bolt that the car door latches on to when slammed
>shut. Mines wore off due to age. Ive tries alternatives like electrical 
tape
>but it didn't last. You'd be suprise at the difference that little spacer
>makes when intact!!

Try the "help" section of the local auto parts store.  I think I've seen
them there.  If that doesn't work check a hardware store.  You can probably
find a sleeve or bronze bushing there that would work.  And if nothing 
else,
you could cut up some old garden hose and wrap that around the striker bolt
then wrap it a few times with electrical or duct tape.  My dad ran garden
hose and electrical tape for years on the striker bolts of an old f*rd
service van he owned.  Probably had to re-wrap them once in awhile though. 
:)

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista Cruiser
`67 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 14:59:53 -0400
From: "bill " <lewman@mindpulse.com>
Subject: 1961 Right Outer Tie Rod - Thompson needed

Can anyone put me onto a source for a 1961 Olds 98 Right Outer Tie Rod.  I
have the Thompson front end as opposed to the Saginaw, both of which were
used in 1961.  I have checked with the usual sources such as Mike Fusick
and local auto part stores.

Thanks,
Bill Pritchett
lewman@mindpulse.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 15:30:36 EDT
From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Subject: Re: 1961 Right Outer Tie Rod - Thompson needed

>Can anyone put me onto a source for a 1961 Olds 98 Right Outer Tie
>Rod.  I
>have the Thompson front

Kanter Auto Products has a listing for '61-'62 Olds Full Size outer tie
rod ends.  They don't mention either Thompson or Saginaw, however.  Call
them to find out if they've got what you need.  They sell them for $40
each.

For orders: 1-800-526-1096
Product information: 1-201-334-9575

Hope this helps!


Dave Paulison                    1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida                1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 15:45:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: DUKEOFBLUZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: spacer for door striker bolt

N.A.P.A. has the striker and bushing together,, I don't know if they sell 
the
seperate

Jeffrey T Fieldsend
Board of Director for OCC. Oldsmobile Cutlass Coupes 73-77

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 16:12:09 -0500
From: dhamlett@mitec.net
Subject: Re: dash pads

Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> Does anyone know how to remove a dash pad (upper part) from a dash
> board?  Better yet how about removing the dash board?  Let me know....
>
> Chris Sparks

In a what??
- --

- -----------------------------------------
      Dan Hamlett
      1966 Cutlass Convertible
      1995 Cutlass Supreme SL
      mailto:dhamlett@mitec.net
      http://www.mitec.net/~dhamlett
- -----------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 16:15:40 -0500
From: dhamlett@mitec.net
Subject: Re: 1961 Right Outer Tie Rod - Thompson needed

bill wrote:
>
> Can anyone put me onto a source for a 1961 Olds 98 Right Outer Tie Rod.  
I
> have the Thompson front end as opposed to the Saginaw, both of which were
> used in 1961.  I have checked with the usual sources such as Mike Fusick
> and local auto part stores.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill Pritchett
> lewman@mindpulse.com

HTTP://www.kanter.com/index.html
Try these guys, they have great front end selection.
- --

- -----------------------------------------
      Dan Hamlett
      1966 Cutlass Convertible
      1995 Cutlass Supreme SL
      mailto:dhamlett@mitec.net
      http://www.mitec.net/~dhamlett
- -----------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 14:34:16 -0700
From: "Suzanne Rousseau" <ewok@clarkston.com>
Subject: W-30 vs LS6

Last night I put the new Dyno program to work.  I entered as accurately as
possible a totally stock '70 W-30 455.  It came up as 460 hp, pretty close
as from what I've heard from the Wmachines guys here.  So I decided to see
what the LS6 could do.  I gave it closed chamber iron heads with a thorough
port job (as I've heard that the heads on that thing were WILD), a 300
duration solid lifter cam with 250 @ .050 with .500 lift, 100 overlap and
110 lobe center and retarded 2 degrees (If anyone knows, am I even close?).
 It has 11:1 pistons and ram air with an 800cfm carb.  1.7 rockers and 2.19
intake and 1.88 exhaust valves.  It has 1-3/4 primary headers and a dual
plane intake.  Fuel pump is of the stock type, and ignition is a stock
mechanical unit.  So it comes up as 531 hp.  About what I expected.  I just
wonder how the W-30 kept right on it's ass so well.....I guess the LS6
must've really been a HEAVY CHEVY.

Too cool...

Paul Rousseau
*1967 442

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 16:49:05 -0500
From: jrjet@mtco.com (Dot & Tim McChesney)
Subject: Re: w30 bdy parts

>are there any fibreglass race body parts available for
>70 442 w30?
>john would like to know.


There are several fiberglass body part companies out there.  Last December
I bought a 71 ram air hood from US Body Source in Florida.  The hood is
nice but the quality could be a little better, but it was worth the price.
They also offered doors, trunklids, front fenders, and one piece front
ends. I don't remember the address or number. We have moved since then and
everything is still in storage. I saw thier ad in a Hot Rod magazine when I
did my purchasing, maybe someone else can find their ª.  Anyone?

Tim McChesney
71 Cutlass Convertible

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 18:21:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: RE: Olds Natl's - Best in Show

It was a great day at the Natl's in Norwalk.. temperature in the 90's and
about 150+ cars on hand... For those of you unable to get there the track
is one of the finest I have seen anywhere... really first classs...
Everyone had a great time; outstanding cars, good conversation and
just a wee bit of bragging.  :-)
The list was well represented with Tom Millard, Mark Prince, Jason Labay
and yours truly in attendance... Sorry if I missed seeing anyone... The
list members did themselves proud:

     Tom Millard - lst Place Custom and BEST IN SHOW
     Mark Prince - lst Place Stock
     Jason Labay - 2nd Place Stock
     Al Varhus   - well, the car isn't quite ready to compete with the
                   big guys


When I had to leave Tom and Mark were battling it out in the "King of the
Hill" race (show cars only)  I hope someone can the post the results.

Hope to see everyone again in Lansing..


Al Varhus
Columbus, Ohio (Home of the "Mad Cows" - the NHL's newest team)
http://www.infinet.com/~avar



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 18:24:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: PaulP34167@aol.com
Subject: Re: W-30 vs LS6

In a message dated 97-07-13 17:34:02 EDT, you write:

> Last night I put the new Dyno program to work.  I entered as accurately 
as
>  possible a totally stock '70 W-30 455.  It came up as 460 hp, pretty 
close
>  as from what I've heard from the Wmachines guys here.  So I decided to 
see
>  what the LS6 could do.  I gave it closed chamber iron heads with a
thorough
>  port job (as I've heard that the heads on that thing were WILD), a 300
>  duration solid lifter cam with 250 @ .050 with .500 lift, 100 overlap 
and
>  110 lobe center and retarded 2 degrees (If anyone knows, am I even
close?).
>   It has 11:1 pistons and ram air with an 800cfm carb.  1.7 rockers and
2.19
>  intake and 1.88 exhaust valves.  It has 1-3/4 primary headers and a dual
>  plane intake.  Fuel pump is of the stock type, and ignition is a stock
>  mechanical unit.  So it comes up as 531 hp.  About what I expected.  I
just
>  wonder how the W-30 kept right on it's ass so well.....I guess the LS6
>  must've really been a HEAVY CHEVY.

I could be wrong, but, isn't torque output more of a factor in predicting a
vehicles acceleration.  If I am correct, the torque output of the W30 and 
the
LS6 are about the same.  This could be the reason why these automobiles had
fairly close acceleration times.

Paul Pate
70 Cutlass S
84 Camaro LG4

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 17:55:26 -0500
From: "Mitch Warren" <mitchntx@flash.net>
Subject: unsubscribe

unsubscribe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 18:16:41 -0500
From: David Lincoln <lincoln@ebicom.net>
Subject: Re: Delco 6x9 Speakers

Don't know if anyone would be interested, but I noticed in a sales flyer
from Parts Express (Dayton, OH, 800-338-0531) the following:

"Original Delco brand 6x9 automotive speaker pairs.  ...coaxially
mounted 2 1/2" paper cone tweeter and a heavy duty, 6x6 paper cone
mid/woofer with foam surround.  Includes built-in fabric mesh grill and
Delco style plug.  Impedance: 4 ohms.  Power handling: 25w RMS/35w max.
$19.50/pair  or $16.50/pair for 6 pairs."

Dave Lincoln
'93 Cutlass Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 18:25:56 -0500
From: David Lincoln <lincoln@ebicom.net>
Subject: Re: 3.4L V6, high rev when starting

I'm back again asking questions about my 3.4L DOHC 24 valve V-6 ('93
Cutlass Convertible).

 When I first start the engine, it revs up to about 2000 RPM, then
slowly drops down to normal idle at about 800-900.  I talked with the
service manager at the Olds Dealer (where I bought it used last  Feb),
and he said that it was OK.  I told him, and I'd like other opinions...
Wouldn't this be hard on the engine, especially in cold winter weather?
Does anyone else out there have this same engine?  Does it exhibit these
same characteristics?   Any other opinions?

Thanks in advance...

Dave Lincoln
'93 Cutlass Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 20:37:26 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Missed a bargain

I've been wanting to tell all you folks this story for a few months now,
kept forgeting.

There was an estate sale held locally the beginning of May.  Big manor
house on large plot of property, many expensive locally important
antiques, and a few cars.

I had heard rumors that this particlar property had a '49 Olds Ninety
Eight convertible hiding in one of the barns.  NAOC president Hugh
Vandervort heard this rumor from a local contact and went to check it
out.  They would show him the car.  They didn't deny it's existence,
they just wouldn't show it to him.

Anyway, when the sale was announced a few months ago, no mention was
made of the Olds in any advertisments.  I assumed the rumor was untrue.
Then I read the local paper with the auction results.  They had a early
60s Lincoln, don't remember the price, a '49 Olds sedan, again don't
remember the price, and... a '48 Olds convertible!  Sold for $875!!!

I later talked to two people who saw the car.  I was described as black
or maroon.  The term for the body was "scaley".  It had what remainded
of the original tan top.  I wind storm the day before sale must have
taken most of the top off.  It was reported to have been there one day
and gone the next.  The interior was said to have looked like a bomb
went off in it.

But I still would have liked to have seen it.  $875 sounds cheap, even
for a parts car.  Probably good I wasn't there, I may have brought it
home...

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 18:44:31 -0600
From: orthsd-r@juno.com (David A Orth)
Subject: Re: What is the correct thermostat temp?

>
>To fix/improve the flow and cooling of a radatior, drill
>little holes
>in the flat ring part of the thermostat.  This will let more coolant
>flow through.
>Brad
>70 442
>

The purpose of drilling holes in the thermostat is to get the trapped air
out of the coolant lines and passages.  The amount of coolant that would
flow thru is pretty small.
"my two Cents"

Dave
'84 Hurst/Olds
'79 Gutlass
missing my '72 442 (first car)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 21:11:12 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <adcockjk@erols.com>
Subject: RE: 3.4L V6, high rev when starting

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC8FD1.734E9D40
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Dave,

My Cutlass does the same thing.  On my car, there is an automatic choke =
that makes the engine rev higher so it will reach proper operating =
temperature faster.  In your fuel-injected car, there may not me a =
traditional choke, but it's probably in the computer somewhere that =
makes the engine behave like that.

 Jason Adcock
 OCA ª028044
 adcockjk@erols.com

 1984 Cutlass Calais RWD V8
 75K Miles, CC1, F41, LV2, N66
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason/cutlass.html
 Also viewable through http://www.442.com

- -----Original Message-----
From:David Lincoln [SMTP:lincoln@ebicom.net]
Sent:Sunday, July 13, 1997 7:26 PM
To:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:Re: 3.4L V6, high rev when starting

I'm back again asking questions about my 3.4L DOHC 24 valve V-6 ('93
Cutlass Convertible).=20

 When I first start the engine, it revs up to about 2000 RPM, then
slowly drops down to normal idle at about 800-900.  I talked with the
service manager at the Olds Dealer (where I bought it used last  Feb),
and he said that it was OK.  I told him, and I'd like other opinions...
Wouldn't this be hard on the engine, especially in cold winter weather?  =

Does anyone else out there have this same engine?  Does it exhibit these
same characteristics?   Any other opinions?

Thanks in advance...

Dave Lincoln
'93 Cutlass Conv.

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IAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAAA6FAAAAAAAAAwARgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAAEIUAAAAA
AAADABKACCAGAAAAAADAAAA
AAAAARgAAAAARhQAAAAAAAAMAFYAIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAA
ABiFAAAAAAAAHgAlgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAANoUAAAEAAAABAAAAAAAAAB4AJoAIIAYA
AAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAADeFAAABAAAAAQAAAAAAAAAeACeACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAA4
hQAAAQAAAAEAAAAAAAAAHgA9AAEAAAAFAAAAUkU6IAAAAAADAA00/TcAABFs

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC8FD1.734E9D40--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 09:03:15 -0500
From: katana72@juno.com (Rob T)
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: tree sap

You may want to try some isopropyl alcohol. Works on a lot of stuff
without damaging it.

Katana72          "It's NOT yourDaddy's Oldsmobile !!!!!    Hastings, MN


>Subject: Tree sap
>
>Dudes-
>
>I need some hep!  Left the car uncovered for a couple daze and when I
>washed it
>this afternoon, there was a big blup of pine tree sap right smack in
>the middle
>of the decklid!  Arrgh!
>
>Anybody know any trix to get it off?  Haven't tried anything yet,
>don't want to
>mess up the paint!  It's still gooey, of course...
>
>TIA-
>
>Doug Kitchener
>dk0009@mail.pratt.lib.md.us
>
>PS, Olds list folks, please email me privately or cc me, I'm not
>currently
>s*bscribed, thanx again.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 21:09:17 +0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: Olds Natl's - Best in Show

The Viking wrote:
>
> It was a great day at the Natl's in Norwalk.. temperature in the 90's and
> about 150+ cars on hand... For those of you unable to get there the track
> is one of the finest I have seen anywhere... really first classs...
> Everyone had a great time; outstanding cars, good conversation and
> just a wee bit of bragging.  :-)
> The list was well represented with Tom Millard, Mark Prince, Jason Labay
> and yours truly in attendance... Sorry if I missed seeing anyone... The
> list members did themselves proud:
>
>      Tom Millard - lst Place Custom and BEST IN SHOW
>      Mark Prince - lst Place Stock
>      Jason Labay - 2nd Place Stock
>      Al Varhus   - well, the car isn't quite ready to compete with the
>                    big guys
>
> When I had to leave Tom and Mark were battling it out in the "King of the
> Hill" race (show cars only)  I hope someone can the post the results.
>
> Hope to see everyone again in Lansing..
>
> Al Varhus

>
>

Al,

Congratulations to the 4 of you.  That is one great accomplishment.
Don't say you aren't ready to compete w/the big boys.  You were in the
arena weren't you?  Everyone there is a winner.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 21:18:39 +0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: tree sap

Rob T wrote:
>
> You may want to try some isopropyl alcohol. Works on a lot of stuff
> without damaging it.
>
> Katana72          "It's NOT yourDaddy's Oldsmobile !!!!!    Hastings, MN
>
> >Subject: Tree sap
> >
> >Dudes-
> >
> >I need some hep!  Left the car uncovered for a couple daze and when I
> >washed it
> >this afternoon, there was a big blup of pine tree sap right smack in
> >the middle
> >of the decklid!  Arrgh!
> >
> >Anybody know any trix to get it off?  Haven't tried anything yet,
> >don't want to
> >mess up the paint!  It's still gooey, of course...
> >
> >TIA-
> >
> >Doug Kitchener
> >dk0009@mail.pratt.lib.md.us
> >
> >PS, Olds list folks, please email me privately or cc me, I'm not
> >currently
> >s*bscribed, thanx again.
> >
> >
The alcohol sounds good, but why not try lots of warm soapy water.
Don't wait long on this treatment though as the sap is not healthy for
your paint.  I would probably seek some shade for the washing & use
regular auto wash soap rather than detergent.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 22:40:06 -0400
From: dk0009@epfl2.epflbalto.org (Douglas Kitchener)
Subject: Re: Re: UNBOUNCE: tree sap

> Rob T wrote:
> >
> > You may want to try some isopropyl alcohol. Works on a lot of stuff
> > without damaging it.
> >
> > Katana72          "It's NOT yourDaddy's Oldsmobile !!!!!    Hastings, 
MN
> >
> > >Subject: Tree sap
> > >
> > >Dudes-
> > >
> > >I need some hep!  Left the car uncovered for a couple daze and when I
> > >washed it
> > >this afternoon, there was a big blup of pine tree sap right smack in
> > >the middle
> > >of the decklid!  Arrgh!
> > >
> > >Anybody know any trix to get it off?  Haven't tried anything yet,
> > >don't want to
> > >mess up the paint!  It's still gooey, of course...
> > >
> > >TIA-
> > >
> > >Doug Kitchener
> > >dk0009@mail.pratt.lib.md.us
> > >
> > >PS, Olds list folks, please email me privately or cc me, I'm not
> > >currently
> > >s*bscribed, thanx again.
> > >
> > >
> The alcohol sounds good, but why not try lots of warm soapy water.
> Don't wait long on this treatment though as the sap is not healthy for
> your paint.  I would probably seek some shade for the washing & use
> regular auto wash soap rather than detergent.
>
> Bill Culp
> Decatur, Alabama
>
Thanks, guys, to bofun you... Bill, never thot about _warm_ water, good 
idea...
have had three other answers and a couple ideas of my own, so now have 
seven or
eight different things to try...  will begin with the least destructive 
and work
 up, and write a learned paper for both email lists and the Rocket Garage 
on
completion!

Oh, Bill, the shade is what caused the problem in the first place!  :)  
Guess I
should maybe use the oak tree across the street in the future...  :)  
Duh...

BTW, thanks to all who responded!  It's a big help, goes to show what the 
spirit
 of these lists is all about!

Regards,

Doug
dk0009@mail.pratt.lib.md.us

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 22:51:04 -0400
From: Cliff McFarlane <mcfrlan@bconnex.net>
Subject: Oldsmobile Club of Canada Summer Nationals

Hello everyone,

I just got back from the OCC summer nationals in London Ontario. The
Show was held on Saturday & Sunday, judging on Sunday. There was a grand
total of 76 cars that were at the show, some really beautiful cars were
there. There was a blue, 1936 Olds that was just beautiful, it got a
perfect score of 1000 points. There was also another 72 Olds 442 conv
that got a score of 999 points, it was another great looking car. The
long distance award went to a couple that came from Nova Scotia, if I'm
not mistaken I think they brought a 72 4-door, 2-tone green, with a
green interior, a really nice color. There was a few people from across
the border that even showed up, which was really nice to see. There was
a 1922 Olds Fire Truck, a 1941 Olds built on Australlia (it was 1 of 73
made, right hand drive, REALLY rare) and a really nice '63 98 sport
coupe. I could go on, and on, there was just so many nice cars at the
show, but I know none of you would ever read the letter to the end. Well
I'd just like to say any of you that are in a reasonable distance to
London Ontario, next year you should try to come out to this beautiful
2-day event, I know for me it was really worth it this year!
P.S. I got first place in my category!!!

Cliff McFarlane
62 Starfire Conv.
63 Starfire Sport Coupe.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 23:11:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dan442Olds@aol.com
Subject: Updating a 1970 442 W-30

I own a 1970 442 W-30 and would appreciate any answers and/or opinions you
members of the list can contribute.

1.  I am planning to do a complete rebuild of the F & R suspension:  
springs,
shocks, ball joints, tie rods, sway bars, and everything else that can be
replaced.  Does anyone have suggestions as to what brand of what parts I
should use?  Has anyone tried  the polygraphite components from Performance
Suspension Technology (PST)?  I want the car to handle better than new so 
NOS
parts are not necessary.

2.  I also plan to repaint the car.  It is platinum (silver), black vinyl
top, black stripes, and black interior.  I want to go back with viking blue
with white vinyl top.  Was this combo available for the 442 in 1970?  The 
car
is numbers matching so will a color change hurt its value?

3.  I need a 3:42 or 3:91 gearset w/posi.  If anyone has one please reply 
by
private e-mail.

Thanks in Advance,

Dan Smith
1970 442 W-30
Dan442Olds@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 23:23:10 -0400
From: Aaron D Eoff <sheep542@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: spacer for door striker bolt

At 03:05 PM 7/13/97 +0600, you wrote:
>>Hello all, I was wondering how hard would it be to obtain the spacer that
>>fits over the striker bolt that the car door latches on to when slammed
>>shut. Mines wore off due to age. Ive tries alternatives like electrical 
tape
>>but it didn't last. You'd be suprise at the difference that little spacer
>>makes when intact!!
>
>Try the "help" section of the local auto parts store.  I think I've seen
>them there.  If that doesn't work check a hardware store.  You can pro
bably
>find a sleeve or bronze bushing there that would work.  And if nothing 
else,
>you could cut up some old garden hose and wrap that around the striker 
bolt
>then wrap it a few times with electrical or duct tape.  My dad ran garden
>hose and electrical tape for years on the striker bolts of an old f*rd
>service van he owned.  Probably had to re-wrap them once in awhile 
though. :)
>
>Greg Pruett
>`72 Vista Cruiser
>`67 Cutlass Supreme

Greg thanks for the great ideas!!!!

Aaron D Eoff
   ///////  ///////
       //       //
      //       //
     //       //
    //       //  'twas a goodyear

1977 Olds Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 23:25:01 -0400
From: Aaron D Eoff <sheep542@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: spacer for door striker bolt

At 03:45 PM 7/13/97 -0400, you wrote:
>N.A.P.A. has the striker and bushing together,, I don't know if they sell 
the
>seperate
>
>Jeffrey T Fieldsend
>Board of Director for OCC. Oldsmobile Cutlass Coupes 73-77
>
jerry thanks for the info. Will check with napa not to far from my house.
thanks again!!

Aaron D Eoff
   ///////  ///////
       //       //
      //       //
     //       //
    //       //  'twas a goodyear

1977 Olds Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 23:38:41 -0400 (EDT)
From: Panman638@aol.com
Subject: Body mount bolts

I am trying to rebolt my rear body bolts that are under the trunk. I was
going to take the body off but after I took the two bolts off I came to my
senses and decided against it. Now I can not get the bolt to grab hold. 
Does
anybody have a suggestion as to how I can get them to take hold.

Jim Moore
1972 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 23:25:34 -0500 (CDT)
From: jkpkobin@discover-net.net (Jeff & Patti Kobinsky)
Subject: Car Craft Summer Cruise - St. Paul MN

I just returned from the 1997 Car Craft Summer Cruise in St. Paul 
Minnesota.

A 90'+ day and very humid - lots of really nice cars cruising the state
fairgrounds without any coolant steaming out - a good testimonial to the
builders.

Of special interest to me - a 64 f85 all in black that was modified quite a
bit - I have a 65 f85 and don't see too much of this stuff around.

There was a real clean 79 H/O W-30 that owner was just putting finishing
touches on - look for it in Lansing in August.

I tried to tell the owner about the "list" but he did not see how internet
could help with Olds parts & resto questions - his loss.........

There was a real clean 70 442 W30 - yellow with red plastic fenders that
looked real sharp, and a couple other real clean olds "cloth top" units
running around.

There was a real sharp '65 gto that looked like it came off the assembly
line this morning.

As usual, there was a excellent representation of "other" manufactures 
lined
up, and the swim suit contest was going fine until my wife dragged me
off........

It was great to see all the work that had been put into the cars, and what
you could do if you have the time, (and a few xtra $$$) to put together a
nice ride.

The Old's were few - but proud.

When they line up the Ch*vy's you see a row of cars that all look the same,
but the Olds really stands out as something different.

Look to Car Craft for future issiues for review of the event and maybe some
"cool" pictures.

I heard the 64 f85 mentioned for an award of some kind as I was leaving.

I thought you might like a "fresh" report of the event.

See ya in Lansing!

Jeff

------------------------------

Date: 13 Jul 1997 21:19:10 PST
From: mjones@dragon.gleep.com
Subject: Rebuilding an engine

Out of the Olds family, which engine would be the most cost-effective to
rebuild into a high-torque, low RPM monster that I can fit into a '78
Delta 88?  Right now the motor is a 350, and I'm not sure if I want to
just add parts to it, because I'd have to spin it higher than let's say
a 455 to get the same amount of power.

Does anybody have any prices for rebuild kits for 350, 403, and 455
engines?  This engine is basically going to be a street motor, with
perhaps some strip use.  Should I bite the bullet and get forged
pistons?  How much would Hyperutectics (sp?) cost?

Mike Jones
'78 Olds 88

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 01:07:10 -0400
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: W-30 vs LS6

At 02:34 PM 7/13/97 -0700, you wrote:
>Last night I put the new Dyno program to work.  I entered as accurately as
>possible a totally stock '70 W-30 455.  It came up as 460 hp, pretty close
>as from what I've heard from the Wmachines guys here.  So I decided to see
>what the LS6 could do.  I gave it closed chamber iron heads with a 
thorough
>port job (as I've heard that the heads on that thing were WILD), a 300
>duration solid lifter cam with 250 @ .050 with .500 lift, 100 overlap and
>110 lobe center and retarded 2 degrees (If anyone knows, am I even 
close?).

I think its cam was a bit more wild than that. Figure that the W-30 cam was
a 328' unit (at 0" lift; don't know the specs at .050"), the duration on 
the
LS-6 was probably at *least* that. I'm quite sure the lift was in the 
.560"+
range.

> It has 11:1 pistons and ram air with an 800cfm carb.  1.7 rockers and 
2.19
>intake and 1.88 exhaust valves.  It has 1-3/4 primary headers and a dual
>plane intake.  Fuel pump is of the stock type, and ignition is a stock
>mechanical unit.  So it comes up as 531 hp.  About what I expected.  I 
just
>wonder how the W-30 kept right on it's ass so well.....I guess the LS6
>must've really been a HEAVY CHEVY.

Well, going by published times, the LS-6 would have a half-second on a 
W-30.
The LS-6 would have an extra 1500-2000rpm in it at which it could move more
air and make power, compared to what a 455 should (not could, but should)
rev to.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 01:07:18 -0400
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: cam profiles

At 12:27 AM 7/13/97 -0700, you wrote:
>> Try Supercars Unlimited, Portland, OR, (503) 244-8249
>>
>> On Sat, 12 Jul 1997, dayc wrote:
>>
>> > Does anyone now where to get the 400165 W-34 grind cam?
>
>Supercars Unlimited only deals in Cutlass/442 parts and probably would not
>have that cam available.  But it's worth a try.  A W-31 grind would fit
>nicely in its place though  :-)

Luckily, the W-34 grind was not something used only in the Toronado; at
least in 1969 (I think the cam remained the same; double-check the FAQ to 
be
sure) the W-34 shared the cam with the L-32, which was the 390hp Delta 
motor
(probably the same motor as the W-33 option of the following year), and I
believe the cam in the H/O of the same year as well. SU should know if
anything they carried was a W-34 cam, though.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 01:07:26 -0400
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Non-Olds - But What's It Worth?

At 07:46 AM 7/13/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Driving around yesterday looking for cheap wheels, I encountered a unique
>car for sale. It's a '75 Buick Lesabre 4-dr sedan. The unique thing is
>that the car is virtually brand new, showing 13K miles. Still has the
<snip>
>years. He's testing the market for it, will sell if he gets the right
>price. Turned down someone's offer of $3500, looking for something over
>$5K Canadian.

He might find someone who would pay that, but I certainly wouldn't be the
one, even if I did have the money, had the space, and needed a car. After
all, the only thing it has going for it is the low miles. A 100,000mi '75
Lesabre convertible in need of work, or even a 40,000mi '75 4-door Buick
Electra would be more collectible (and valuable) than this car. It's a
mid-level model, it's got 4-doors, the engine has quite a bit of pollution
controls on it, and toward the end of that series' run, they were trying to
make the lines and trim on the car more "modern", with rectangular
headlights, less-distinctive lines, etc. It's got very little performance
potential, they produced hundreds of thousands of them (heck, in the
faculty/staff lot where I used to work, there were *two* 4-door Lesabres of
that vintage, one a hardtop, other with the post), and even if it's only 
got
13k miles, it's going to need new seals and rubber items throughout due to
age deterioration (and I'm sure those tires are well flat-spotted!)

>sedan it really isn't all that collectible either. But it is a really
>nice car and there can't be many like it left.

Right, but I doubt that there's even one person interested in one, for 
every
one left. There's plenty of other cars for people to be interested in, and
for $5000 you can get a pretty interesting car.

>Any idea what something like this is worth?

I think the guy missed his opportunity when he turned down $3500. There may
be someone out there who would pay his price, but it's going to take a
*long* time to hook up with that buyer...

Maybe keep his name, and in 3 months offer him $2500. If he declines to
sell, call back 3 months after that, and offer him $2000. If he still
refuses to sell, wait _six_ months, and then call back and offer him $1300.
If it's still no go, wait a *year*, and if he's still got it, offer him 
$800
for that heap.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 01:07:23 -0400
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: New Carb = No Power ?

At 11:36 AM 7/13/97 -0500, you wrote:
>I just replaced my Holley carb with a Carter made Quadrajet.  Problems I
<snip>
>Problem with the new carb is that it idles great but if I put any kind of
>foot into the pedal it feels like it is choking off the engine.  I can 
easy
>the car up to about 40MPH, but after that .. nothing.  On one test drive I

Fuel-line restriction? Dirt in fuel bowl stirred up by 
removal/installation?
Bad fuel filter? Secondaries not opening? Bad/stuck power system?

>punched it and got the engine to open up, but there was no power and the
>transmission was shifting all over the place.
                  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
??? Huh??? That's wierd; are you sure the line to the vacuum modulator on
the transmission is not hooked up to ported vacuum or something like that?

>Car is  69 442 Convertible, 73-76 J head 455 with HEI and Holley Street
>Dominator intake.  The carb was running on a 70 442 before being sold to
>me.  Are there any adjustments/changes I need to make to the carb?  Would
>changing the carb change my timing?

I'd at least open it up and blow out the passages to verify that it's not
crudded up; even if it ran before, you could have stirred things up a bit.
You say it ran on the 442; do you know how well? Why was the guy selling it
in the first place? Your timing should not have changed, unless you've
hooked up the vacuum advance incorrectly.

>I checked vacuum and it looks good (gauge goes into the green when I give
>the engine some power)

What's the reading at idle, and while moving? Does it drop on acceleration?
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 01:07:20 -0400
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: More Car-buying Adventures...

At 08:20 AM 7/13/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Interesting car: '78 Delta, 66K miles. Rocket 350/TH350 combo, drove

Was that a 2-door or 4-door? Sounds like a good candidate, considering what
you've looked at before

>Finally -- driving home I spot a Delta paked in a field with a for sale
>sign on it... go look. Somewhere between an '80 and '83. Nasty original
>paint but no holes, solid frame too. Car is loaded, power everything, air,
>nice silver gray velour interior. Look at sign... $600! Geez, wonder if it

Though it's cheaper, you may be wanting the power of that 350 after having
driven a 307 for a while... Decide what that's worth to you.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 01:07:29 -0400
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Re-introduction

At 11:18 PM 7/12/97 -0400, you wrote:
>It finally occured to me that a few folks are newer here and don't know 
me yet.
<snip>
>fun w/ the kids. Now, back to the Toronado and parting out work!

Yes, one thing that used to be a tradition, whenever you signed up, was to
post an introductory greeting message, where you tell us who you are and
what Olds-related interests you have, and what cars you might currently
have. I know there's a lot of people subscribed to the list who we hear
nothing from.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 01:13:08 -0400
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Rebuilding an engine

At 09:19 PM 7/13/97 PST, you wrote:
>Out of the Olds family, which engine would be the most cost-effective to
>rebuild into a high-torque, low RPM monster that I can fit into a '78
>Delta 88?  Right now the motor is a 350, and I'm not sure if I want to
>just add parts to it, because I'd have to spin it higher than let's say
>a 455 to get the same amount of power.

A 455 would be your best bet, since the difference in the cost of parts
becomes negligible when you're looking at a total rebuild.

>Does anybody have any prices for rebuild kits for 350, 403, and 455
>engines?  This engine is basically going to be a street motor, with
>perhaps some strip use.  Should I bite the bullet and get forged
>pistons?  How much would Hyperutectics (sp?) cost?

I like the forged pistons in my 403, even though it's a daily driver. It's
one less thing for me to think about going/breaking on me (I've got plenty
of other candidates to take the place of those thoughts...
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 03:33:35 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Updated web page

Hi all,

I just want to let everyone know I've updated my web page with a neat
little section of "Olds Ads from Yesteryear".  Currently there are two
new ones, but more are on the way, including a 65 442, the first GM
proposed auto navigation system (Olds dash featured), Rallye 350, 70
W-30, and other neat ads of the eras.  You just have to check back now
and then.  It's always nostalgic to look at these ads possibly seeing
YOUR car type displayed.  Funny though, every ad I've checked was
specialty/performance cars (442, H/O, W-Machine, Rallye).  I haven't
seen one Cutlass/88/98/Toro one yet in all these old Hot Rod books.

Mike Rothe
http://pages.prodigy.net/mrothe/rocket.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 97 02:53:05 CST
From: "Administrator" <Administrator_at_MCIS-Darien@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Message not deliverable

Hi all,

I just want to let everyone know I've updated my web page with a neat
little section of "Olds Ads from Yesteryear".  Currently there are two
new ones, but more are on the way, including a 65 442, the first GM
proposed auto navigation system (Olds dash featured), Rallye 350, 70
W-30, and other neat ads of the eras.  You just have to check back now
and then.  It's always nostalgic to look at these ads possibly seeing
YOUR car type displayed.  Funny though, every ad I've checked was
specialty/performance cars (442, H/O, W-Machine, Rallye).  I haven't
seen one Cutlass/88/98/Toro one yet in all these old Hot Rod books.

Mike Rothe
http://pages.prodigy.net/mrothe/rocket.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 03:57:45 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Updating a 1970 442 W-30

> 1.  I am planning to do a complete rebuild of the F & R suspension:  > 
Does
anyone have suggestions as to what brand of what parts I > should use?  Has
anyone tried  the polygraphite components from Performance > Suspension
Technology (PST)?  I want the car to handle better than new so NOS > parts 
are
not necessary.

I've used regular rubber ones from Western Auto (TRW).  They've worked
out great.  The PST ones will be really harsh, since they are the next
softest thing in line next to concrete.  They will improve handling, but
your ride will suffer.  If you can live with THAT, then it may be worth
the extra bucks.

> 2.  I also plan to repaint the car.  It is platinum (silver), black vinyl
> top, black stripes, and black interior.  I want to go back with viking 
blue
> with white vinyl top.  Was this combo available for the 442 in 1970?  
The car
> is numbers matching so will a color change hurt its value?

Yes, I believe that combo was available. (In fact, I've seen a build
sheet and the trim tag for a 70 W-30 I looked at once that was
yellow/black stripes with a green interior from the factory.  I had to
check it out, it was too ugly!).  If you go to sell it, it MAY hurt the
value.  As long as you own it it won't.  If someone wants the original
type paint, it wouldn't be worth as much to them compared to someone who
didn't care.  It's yours now, so what will you need to do to it to make
YOU happy?

My 2 cents,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 97 03:22:21 CST
From: "Administrator" <Administrator_at_MCIS-Darien@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Message not deliverable

Hi all,

I just want to let everyone know I've updated my web page with a neat
little section of "Olds Ads from Yesteryear".  Currently there are two
new ones, but more are on the way, including a 65 442, the first GM
proposed auto navigation system (Olds dash featured), Rallye 350, 70
W-30, and other neat ads of the eras.  You just have to check back now
and then.  It's always nostalgic to look at these ads possibly seeing
YOUR car type displayed.  Funny though, every ad I've checked was
specialty/performance cars (442, H/O, W-Machine, Rallye).  I haven't
seen one Cutlass/88/98/Toro one yet in all these old Hot Rod books.

Mike Rothe
http://pages.prodigy.net/mrothe/rocket.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 97 03:32:25 CST
From: "Administrator" <Administrator_at_MCIS-Darien@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Message not deliverable

Hi all,

I just want to let everyone know I've updated my web page with a neat
little section of "Olds Ads from Yesteryear".  Currently there are two
new ones, but more are on the way, including a 65 442, the first GM
proposed auto navigation system (Olds dash featured), Rallye 350, 70
W-30, and other neat ads of the eras.  You just have to check back now
and then.  It's always nostalgic to look at these ads possibly seeing
YOUR car type displayed.  Funny though, every ad I've checked was
specialty/performance cars (442, H/O, W-Machine, Rallye).  I haven't
seen one Cutlass/88/98/Toro one yet in all these old Hot Rod books.

Mike Rothe
http://pages.prodigy.net/mrothe/rocket.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 97 03:32:21 CST
From: "Administrator" <Administrator_at_MCIS-Darien@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Message not deliverable

> 1.  I am planning to do a complete rebuild of the F & R suspension:  > 
Does
anyone have suggestions as to what brand of what parts I
> should use?  Has anyone tried  the polygraphite components from 
Performance
> Suspension Technology (PST)?  I want the car to handle better than new 
so NOS
> parts are not necessary.

I've used regular rubber ones from Western Auto (TRW).  They've worked
out great.  The PST ones will be really harsh, since they are the next
softest thing in line next to concrete.  They will improve handling, but
your ride will suffer.  If you can live with THAT, then it may be worth
the extra bucks.

> 2.  I also plan to repaint the car.  It is platinum (silver), black vinyl
> top, black stripes, and black interior.  I want to go back with viking 
blue
> with white vinyl top.  Was this combo available for the 442 in 1970?  
The car
> is numbers matching so will a color change hurt its value?

Yes, I believe that combo was available. (In fact, I've seen a build
sheet and the trim tag for a 70 W-30 I looked at once that was
yellow/black stripes with a green interior from the factory.  I had to
check it out, it was too ugly!).  If you go to sell it, it MAY hurt the
value.  As long as you own it it won't.  If someone wants the original
type paint, it wouldn't be worth as much to them compared to someone who
didn't care.  It's yours now, so what will you need to do to it to make
YOU happy?

My 2 cents,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 97 03:47:20 CST
From: "Administrator" <Administrator_at_MCIS-Darien@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Message not deliverable

Hi all,

I just want to let everyone know I've updated my web page with a neat
little section of "Olds Ads from Yesteryear".  Currently there are two
new ones, but more are on the way, including a 65 442, the first GM
proposed auto navigation system (Olds dash featured), Rallye 350, 70
W-30, and other neat ads of the eras.  You just have to check back now
and then.  It's always nostalgic to look at these ads possibly seeing
YOUR car type displayed.  Funny though, every ad I've checked was
specialty/performance cars (442, H/O, W-Machine, Rallye).  I haven't
seen one Cutlass/88/98/Toro one yet in all these old Hot Rod books.

Mike Rothe
http://pages.prodigy.net/mrothe/rocket.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 97 03:52:36 CST
From: "Administrator" <Administrator_at_MCIS-Darien@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Message not deliverable

> 1.  I am planning to do a complete rebuild of the F & R suspension:  > 
Does
anyone have suggestions as to what brand of what parts I
> should use?  Has anyone tried  the polygraphite components from 
Performance
> Suspension Technology (PST)?  I want the car to handle better than new 
so NOS
> parts are not necessary.

I've used regular rubber ones from Western Auto (TRW).  They've worked
out great.  The PST ones will be really harsh, since they are the next
softest thing in line next to concrete.  They will improve handling, but
your ride will suffer.  If you can live with THAT, then it may be worth
the extra bucks.

> 2.  I also plan to repaint the car.  It is platinum (silver), black vinyl
> top, black stripes, and black interior.  I want to go back with viking 
blue
> with white vinyl top.  Was this combo available for the 442 in 1970?  
The car
> is numbers matching so will a color change hurt its value?

Yes, I believe that combo was available. (In fact, I've seen a build
sheet and the trim tag for a 70 W-30 I looked at once that was
yellow/black stripes with a green interior from the factory.  I had to
check it out, it was too ugly!).  If you go to sell it, it MAY hurt the
value.  As long as you own it it won't.  If someone wants the original
type paint, it wouldn't be worth as much to them compared to someone who
didn't care.  It's yours now, so what will you need to do to it to make
YOU happy?

My 2 cents,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 97 04:12:33 CST
From: "Administrator" <Administrator_at_MCIS-Darien@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Message not deliverable

> 1.  I am planning to do a complete rebuild of the F & R suspension:  > 
Does
anyone have suggestions as to what brand of what parts I
> should use?  Has anyone tried  the polygraphite components from 
Performance
> Suspension Technology (PST)?  I want the car to handle better than new 
so NOS
> parts are not necessary.

I've used regular rubber ones from Western Auto (TRW).  They've worked
out great.  The PST ones will be really harsh, since they are the next
softest thing in line next to concrete.  They will improve handling, but
your ride will suffer.  If you can live with THAT, then it may be worth
the extra bucks.

> 2.  I also plan to repaint the car.  It is platinum (silver), black vinyl
> top, black stripes, and black interior.  I want to go back with viking 
blue
> with white vinyl top.  Was this combo available for the 442 in 1970?  
The car
> is numbers matching so will a color change hurt its value?

Yes, I believe that combo was available. (In fact, I've seen a build
sheet and the trim tag for a 70 W-30 I looked at once that was
yellow/black stripes with a green interior from the factory.  I had to
check it out, it was too ugly!).  If you go to sell it, it MAY hurt the
value.  As long as you own it it won't.  If someone wants the original
type paint, it wouldn't be worth as much to them compared to someone who
didn't care.  It's yours now, so what will you need to do to it to make
YOU happy?

My 2 cents,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 97 04:12:21 CST
From: "Administrator" <Administrator_at_MCIS-Darien@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Message not deliverable

Hi all,

I just want to let everyone know I've updated my web page with a neat
little section of "Olds Ads from Yesteryear".  Currently there are two
new ones, but more are on the way, including a 65 442, the first GM
proposed auto navigation system (Olds dash featured), Rallye 350, 70
W-30, and other neat ads of the eras.  You just have to check back now
and then.  It's always nostalgic to look at these ads possibly seeing
YOUR car type displayed.  Funny though, every ad I've checked was
specialty/performance cars (442, H/O, W-Machine, Rallye).  I haven't
seen one Cutlass/88/98/Toro one yet in all these old Hot Rod books.

Mike Rothe
http://pages.prodigy.net/mrothe/rocket.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 97 04:22:21 CST
From: "Administrator" <Administrator_at_MCIS-Darien@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Message not deliverable

> 1.  I am planning to do a complete rebuild of the F & R suspension:  > 
Does
anyone have suggestions as to what brand of what parts I
> should use?  Has anyone tried  the polygraphite components from 
Performance
> Suspension Technology (PST)?  I want the car to handle better than new 
so NOS
> parts are not necessary.

I've used regular rubber ones from Western Auto (TRW).  They've worked
out great.  The PST ones will be really harsh, since they are the next
softest thing in line next to concrete.  They will improve handling, but
your ride will suffer.  If you can live with THAT, then it may be worth
the extra bucks.

> 2.  I also plan to repaint the car.  It is platinum (silver), black vinyl
> top, black stripes, and black interior.  I want to go back with viking 
blue
> with white vinyl top.  Was this combo available for the 442 in 1970?  
The car
> is numbers matching so will a color change hurt its value?

Yes, I believe that combo was available. (In fact, I've seen a build
sheet and the trim tag for a 70 W-30 I looked at once that was
yellow/black stripes with a green interior from the factory.  I had to
check it out, it was too ugly!).  If you go to sell it, it MAY hurt the
value.  As long as you own it it won't.  If someone wants the original
type paint, it wouldn't be worth as much to them compared to someone who
didn't care.  It's yours now, so what will you need to do to it to make
YOU happy?

My 2 cents,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 97 04:22:25 CST
From: "Administrator" <Administrator_at_MCIS-Darien@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Message not deliverable

Hi all,

I just want to let everyone know I've updated my web page with a neat
little section of "Olds Ads from Yesteryear".  Currently there are two
new ones, but more are on the way, including a 65 442, the first GM
proposed auto navigation system (Olds dash featured), Rallye 350, 70
W-30, and other neat ads of the eras.  You just have to check back now
and then.  It's always nostalgic to look at these ads possibly seeing
YOUR car type displayed.  Funny though, every ad I've checked was
specialty/performance cars (442, H/O, W-Machine, Rallye).  I haven't
seen one Cutlass/88/98/Toro one yet in all these old Hot Rod books.

Mike Rothe
http://pages.prodigy.net/mrothe/rocket.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 97 04:32:26 CST
From: "Administrator" <Administrator_at_MCIS-Darien@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Message not deliverable

Hi all,

I just want to let everyone know I've updated my web page with a neat
little section of "Olds Ads from Yesteryear".  Currently there are two
new ones, but more are on the way, including a 65 442, the first GM
proposed auto navigation system (Olds dash featured), Rallye 350, 70
W-30, and other neat ads of the eras.  You just have to check back now
and then.  It's always nostalgic to look at these ads possibly seeing
YOUR car type displayed.  Funny though, every ad I've checked was
specialty/performance cars (442, H/O, W-Machine, Rallye).  I haven't
seen one Cutlass/88/98/Toro one yet in all these old Hot Rod books.

Mike Rothe
http://pages.prodigy.net/mrothe/rocket.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 97 04:32:21 CST
From: "Administrator" <Administrator_at_MCIS-Darien@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Message not deliverable

> 1.  I am planning to do a complete rebuild of the F & R suspension:  > 
Does
anyone have suggestions as to what brand of what parts I
> should use?  Has anyone tried  the polygraphite components from 
Performance
> Suspension Technology (PST)?  I want the car to handle better than new 
so NOS
> parts are not necessary.

I've used regular rubber ones from Western Auto (TRW).  They've worked
out great.  The PST ones will be really harsh, since they are the next
softest thing in line next to concrete.  They will improve handling, but
your ride will suffer.  If you can live with THAT, then it may be worth
the extra bucks.

> 2.  I also plan to repaint the car.  It is platinum (silver), black vinyl
> top, black stripes, and black interior.  I want to go back with viking 
blue
> with white vinyl top.  Was this combo available for the 442 in 1970?  
The car
> is numbers matching so will a color change hurt its value?

Yes, I believe that combo was available. (In fact, I've seen a build
sheet and the trim tag for a 70 W-30 I looked at once that was
yellow/black stripes with a green interior from the factory.  I had to
check it out, it was too ugly!).  If you go to sell it, it MAY hurt the
value.  As long as you own it it won't.  If someone wants the original
type paint, it wouldn't be worth as much to them compared to someone who
didn't care.  It's yours now, so what will you need to do to it to make
YOU happy?

My 2 cents,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª748
********************************
