To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #706


oldsmobile-digest           Tuesday, 3 June 1997        Volume 01 : Number 706

Re: ** parts for sale**
1966 olds toro headlight motors
Re: PS and AC brackets for BB
Re: 1966 olds toro headlight motors
Engine Blues...
More Parts For Sale
Re: Misc. topics
E-Mail change of address...
Re: Engine Blues...
Work Bench Advice Wanted
Re: Work Bench Advice Wanted
Re: The Mech-guy's carb (was Dan Lacey's carb)
Re: Misc. topics
69 H/O cam
More Parts For Sale
Re: Engine Blues...
Re: a big electrical problem for me
Re: Engine Blues...
New sibling's update (was: getting enough and misc. topics)
[none]
Re: Engine Blues...
Re: More Parts For Sale
303 Engines (Long)
403 in 81-88 Cutlass?
307 with TBI?
Jetstar 88 Convertible For Sale
Re: 69 H/O cam
Re: More Parts For Sale
Re: Cam Question for 350
Test, Please Ignore
Re: 69 H/O cam
Re: Cam Question for 350
Driveshaft length
Re: More Parts For Sale
Re: More Parts For Sale
RE: More Parts For Sale
FW: re:motors
Re: 403 in 81-88 Cutlass?
Help a Toro...
Re: Olds 350 FUBAR?
1970 cowl tag is this right
Re: 1970 cowl tag is this right
Re: 1970 cowl tag is this right
W-30/W-31
Re: 403 in 81-88 Cutlass?
Re: W-30/W-31
Re: 403 in 81-88 Cutlass?
Tunnel ram/heads/ect..
Ram-air setup
Question for Charley, et al., on rear end gearing
Re: Question for Charley, et al., on rear end gearing

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Patrick Flowers <patri63@ibm.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 20:33:31 -0300
Subject: Re: ** parts for sale**

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>
> On Mon, 2 Jun 1997, Brad Bowles wrote:
> > ab348@chebucto.ns.ca wrote:
> > > I just got a 65 mustang incase you people want to get
> > > a hold of some real power.  I'm selling it for $4000. firm
> > > I'm also scrapping all my olds parts, so if you want any
> > > speak now!
> > > Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada > >   Are you selling your Olds or Ford? > >   I want the ford, or I
just want the posi out of the olds. > >   Let me know!!! > > Man, some
stories just won't die... > > There's no Mustang, and the post was bogus.
Ignore it.

Greg,

You're an urban legend!

Patrick
- --
Patrick Flowers    Mailto:patri63@ibm.net

------------------------------

From: Joe Pinkerton <joe7007@clover.net>
Date: Fri, 23 May 1997 22:55:02 -0300
Subject: 1966 olds toro headlight motors

HELLO I AM LOOKING FOR VACCUMM MOTORS FOR 1966 TORO, IF YOU HAVE ANY
INFO PLEASE E MAIL ME  JOE7007CLOVER.NET  614-282-2221

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 21:03:52 -0300
Subject: Re: PS and AC brackets for BB

At 09:50 AM 6/2/97 -0300, you wrote:
>
>I see someone else is having the same problem with the AC bracket that I
>am.  I have an edelbrock torker, and the AC bracket doesn't  line up to the
>hole on the manifold.  Has anyone done this?  Do I have to make some sort
>of adapter bracket, or can I shape mine to fit?  I haven't seen any kits to
>fix this.  Also, the PS bracket from the 350 doesn't look like it fits
>perfectly on my 455.  I think someone told me they were different on the
>big block.  Does anyone have one they want to get rid of?  I think it is
>supposed to attach to the exhaust manifold too.  Guess what - I bought
>headers.  Should I still hook up that part of the bracket?  I don't think
>it will be strong enough without it?
>
>thanks,
>Dave
>
>
>Dave

        The A/C brackets rarely line up with aftermarket manifolds. This is
a very common problem. As for the brackets for both the A/C and the power
steering are the SAME for both engines. That's why a couple of the brackets
have multiple holes.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 00:58:40 -0300
Subject: Re: 1966 olds toro headlight motors

Joe Pinkerton wrote:
>
> HELLO I AM LOOKING FOR VACCUMM MOTORS FOR 1966 TORO, IF YOU HAVE ANY
> INFO PLEASE E MAIL ME  JOE7007CLOVER.NET  614-282-2221

Visit the Toro FAQ thru: http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/torolist.html

    66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

From: "Brian Lorway" <blorway@rust.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 22:26:04 -0300
Subject: Engine Blues...

Found something out today... The Olds blue engine paint that Year One sells
is big time different in color than the blue engine paint Fusick sells.
Year One is a darker metallic blue and Fusick's is more of a lighter
silverish metallic blue. Which one is closer to what the factory used?

Regards,
Brian

1970 4-4-2 W-30, 4-Speed
1971 4-4-2 W-30, Convertible
OCA ª 028157

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 21:53:19 -0300
Subject: More Parts For Sale

Hey All,

        Just got done sorting out a bunch of new parts.

70-75 Sport Steering Wheel (excellent cond)  $120.00 complete
71-72 Sport Mirrors (excellent cond)  $100.00 pr
70-71 F-85 Horn Button (cheap style wheel, excellent)  $20.00
72 Cutlass Supreme Side Moldings (excellent)  $110.00 set
68 Cutlass/442 RH Fender (nice, small ding)  $300.00
70-72 Convertible Top or Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switches  $50.00 ea
70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switch Bezels  $10.00 ea
68 Cutlass/442 Std Horn Button (black, nice)  $7.00
70-72 455 Engine Frame Mounts  $60.00 pr
72 Chrome Gauge Bezel (will fit 70 & 71 also, very good cond)  $30.00
68 Air Cleaner Stove Pipe (pipe only)  $15.00


Let me know if there's anything that interests you.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass Supreme SX W-32
72 442 (350)
86 NInety Eight
94 Cutlass Supreme
96 C-1500

------------------------------

From: acg@dlogics.com
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 22:36:31 -0300
Subject: Re: Misc. topics

Much as I hate "Misc." followups (Chris B. Witt was always
much better at that kind of stuff), I need to rip through
the latest digest posts, then get ready for four days in
Cincinnati (Civic Motto: "Three N's, One T.") on business...
(...but at least me and the family get a week in South Dakota
ten days after that. Anyone live out that way?)

> From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
> Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 01:34:22 -0300
> Subject: I can't get enough!!! (and then there were three....)
>
> Well, I had some local make my day today.  There's been an '82 Cutlass
> Brougham sitting in the same spot for roughly two years that ~I~ know of
> [...] Factory AM/FM/Cassette
> still there.  Don't work.

What, won't play tapes? Stretched/broken drive belt. Trivial repair
if you're handy with little screwdrivers, etc...

> Subject: Re: 1969 Cutlass S car
>
> In my neighborhood, roughly 2-3 miles away, a lady has a 69 Cutlass
> [...] I asked her how many
> miles she went in the car and she told me 227,000 miles!  Yeow-sa!
> Scared me a bit.

The car is twenty-eight years old. Be grateful it's there at all! :-)

> A/C works except in hi
> position.

Assuming the HVAC wiring harness on that engine is comparable to later
years, this symptom is most commonly due to a melted in-line harness
connector between the high-speed bypass relay and the alternator. Find
the fat red wires on the relay, follow the one that heads toward the
engine, and open the in-line connector it goes through. That'll be
your problem. Bypass it with a jumper.

> Anyway I am going to shine buying it.

Um... Huh?

> Subject: Re: OCA Web Page New Address
>
> >http://www.erols.com/brad442/oca
> >I put it in it's own directory for maintenance sake.  There is a "detour"
> >at the old location, the one printed in "Journey with Olds"
>
> I just typed in this address here at work and our Proxy server kicked it
> back with a "Blocked Site" message.  First time I've seen that one.
>
> What do you have on your page?  Pictures of cars not wearing any
> sheetmetal?  :-)

Must be old listings. Way back when, Erols had some sex spam problems,
but have long since cleaned up the site and are now very active over
on the Spam-L antispam list, in fact. Their site shouldn't be blocked...?

> Subject: Re: I can't get enough!!! (and then there were three....)
>
> >I think that you've lost your mind.
>
> Yeah, I've always suspected that ;)
>
>  Are you sure that you are a college
> >graduate?  I'll bet the degree is in business majoring in acquisitions.
>
> Well, it's a Bachelor's in Automotive Technology

Ah-hah. So what you're telling us, Charley, is that officially,
you're BATs.

- -- Andy

------------------------------

From: Mike Hall <mikehall@flash.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 00:01:54 -0300
Subject: E-Mail change of address...

For the "Who Cares About This, Department"

My Email Address has been changed to:

mikehall@mail.flash.net

Effective immediately!

Good Riddance to Netcom for their constant busy signals, down servers and
expensive prices!


Michael R. Hall                                Ortonville, Michigan
Home E-Mail: mikehall@mail.flash.net
The Oldsmobile Stable:
     1971 Oldsmobile 442, A Work In Progress...
     1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S, 380 horses of pure Mondello fun...
     1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm, the classy one...

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 23:40:14 -0300
Subject: Re: Engine Blues...

At 10:26 PM 6/2/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Found something out today... The Olds blue engine paint that Year One sells
>is big time different in color than the blue engine paint Fusick sells.
>Year One is a darker metallic blue and Fusick's is more of a lighter
>silverish metallic blue. Which one is closer to what the factory used?
>
>Regards,
>Brian
>
>1970 4-4-2 W-30, 4-Speed
>1971 4-4-2 W-30, Convertible
>OCA ª 028157

Brian

        Use the darker blue. The Martin Seymour Paint is TOO light also. I
have mine custom mixed to an original valve cover that's in good shape. That
way you can also  get it in Urethane so it lasts longer.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: idaholc@primenet.com (william goodnight)
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 00:00:23 -0300
Subject: Work Bench Advice Wanted

have just completed a 24x36' garage/shop.  After framing in Lav, I will have
approx. 22' of back wall I want to dedicate to automotive workbench.

1) What is standard height and depth for a standard workbench top.

2)  Have any ideas how to cover it for taking abuse?

thanks!

Bill Goodnight
Goodnight & Associates, Inc.
idaholc@primenet.com
Boise, Idaho

------------------------------

From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 00:23:24 -0300
Subject: Re: Work Bench Advice Wanted

- ----------
> From: william goodnight <idaholc@primenet.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Work Bench Advice Wanted
> Date: Monday, June 02, 1997 10:00 PM
>
> have just completed a 24x36' garage/shop.  After framing in Lav, I will
have
> approx. 22' of back wall I want to dedicate to automotive workbench.
>
> 1) What is standard height and depth for a standard workbench top.
> If you are making it yourself make it what ever height fits you best. I
like them about waist high.
36 inches deep is nice if you have the room. Put a backboard on it so
things wont fall off the back side and so you can hang things you use often
on it.

> 2)  Have any ideas how to cover it for taking abuse?
I have one that is made from 2x6 lumber with a 3/16 steel plate on top.
Wood is too hard to keep clean. Steel is heavy but you cant beat it for
strength and it just wipes off.
Walter

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 00:41:28 -0300
Subject: Re: The Mech-guy's carb (was Dan Lacey's carb)

At 07:23 PM 6/2/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I believe that a non-double-pumper 750cfm carb could also give decent
>economy. The major concern is to get adequate airflow. Period. After that is
>established (here I go again rushing headlong into a subject I know squat
>about..) I believe that the volume of fuel pumped into the intake is merely a
>question of which metering rods and jets you use in the carburetor, that and
>setting of the idle adjustment screws/knobs.
>
>Anyone care to rebuke me for my ignorant statments?

Sure, I'll give it a shot... ;)

Holleys don't use metering rods like a Q-jet, which in effect achieves a
variable-size main jet by dropping or raising a tapered metering rod into
the jet, according to engine vacuum (which is related to the load on the
engine). You can fine-tune your car's part-throttle driveability on a Q-jet
by varying the taper on the metering rod, whereas the jets on a Holley are
fixed, and it's only the power system that provides the extra fuel, but like
an on/off switch, not variable like the Q-jet.

FWIW, my stock '70 455 ran quite well with a Holley 3310 Vacuum secondary
750cfm carb; it seemed to have a better top-end than my Q-jet, but the Q-jet
seemed to have better low-speed power. To tell the truth, though, if you
swapped one carb for the other and didn't tell me, I probably wouldn't have
noticed the difference in driveability, they were that close (well, ok, the
Holley had the manual choke, which looked pretty cool in the position of the
lighter socket in the dash; I loved that hidden compartment!).
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 00:41:31 -0300
Subject: Re: Misc. topics

At 09:36 PM 6/2/97 -0400, you wrote:
>> A/C works except in hi
>> position.
>
>Assuming the HVAC wiring harness on that engine is comparable to later
[snip]
>engine, and open the in-line connector it goes through. That'll be
>your problem. Bypass it with a jumper.
               ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

OTOH, if there was a problem that caused the fusible link or fuse to blow,
just jumpering over it will turn the remaining weakest part of the circuit
into a fusible link. Splice in some fusible link wire, or add a fuse; if it
blows, then you've got more diagnosing to do.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

From: "MROTHE" <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 00:35:06 -0300
Subject: 69 H/O cam

Hi all, is there anyone who can help me out here.......I'm looking for a
camshaft for my 69 H/O as I will be rebuilding it soon, and the cam is
presumably worn, and I would like to replace it if possible.  The cam
factory ª is 400166, and is of the L-32 variety (W34) with .472 lift,
285/287 duration, intake centerline of 118 degrees, exhaust centerline of
112 degrees, intake opens 24 degrees BTC, closes 81 deg. ABC, and the
exhaust numbers are open 74 deg. BBC and close 33 deg ATC.

If a new GM one isn't possible, is there an aftermarket company that has
something close? Or other factory cams? I thought about an aftermarket
.474/308 cam, but I'm not sure if these so-called "factory replacement"
cams are up to snuff on their profiles.  Any suggestions?  I'd be willing
to check out a good used cam if I have to.

Thanks,

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 00:47:08 -0300
Subject: More Parts For Sale

Hey All,

        Just got done sorting out a bunch of new parts.

70-75 Sport Steering Wheel (excellent cond)  $120.00 complete
71-72 Sport Mirrors (excellent cond)  $100.00 pr
70-71 F-85 Horn Button (cheap style wheel, excellent)  $20.00
72 Cutlass Supreme Side Moldings (excellent)  $110.00 set
68 Cutlass/442 RH Fender (nice, small ding)  $300.00
70-72 Convertible Top or Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switches  $50.00 ea
70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switch Bezels  $10.00 ea
68 Cutlass/442 Std Horn Button (black, nice)  $7.00
70-72 455 Engine Frame Mounts  $60.00 pr
72 Chrome Gauge Bezel (will fit 70 & 71 also, very good cond)  $30.00
68 Air Cleaner Stove Pipe (pipe only)  $15.00


Let me know if there's anything that interests you.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass Supreme SX W-32
72 442 (350)
86 NInety Eight
94 Cutlass Supreme
96 C-1500

------------------------------

From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 01:00:48 -0300
Subject: Re: Engine Blues...

In a message dated 97-06-02 23:54:40 EDT, you write:

<< Found something out today... The Olds blue engine paint that Year One
sells
 is big time different in color than the blue engine paint Fusick sells.
 Year One is a darker metallic blue and Fusick's is more of a lighter
 silverish metallic blue. Which one is closer to what the factory used?

 Regards,
 Brian

 1970 4-4-2 W-30, 4-Speed
 1971 4-4-2 W-30, Convertible
 OCA ª 028157

  >>
Brian, you should have bought the NAPA Auto Parts Olds Blue paint.  Thats the
color of paint on mine and Rick, Aaron, Sal, Bill and gang.

Mark Prince
W MACHINES

------------------------------

From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 00:41:55 -0300
Subject: Re: a big electrical problem for me

> CAN ANYONE PLEASE HELP ME GET MY BATTERY TO CHARGE WHEN I DRIVE IT??  WHAT
> DO I DO?

Hi Joe,

I don't have any experience with generators, but have you tried
polarizing the charging system?  I've read that simply shorting the
appropriate terminals for about a second (not longer!), while the engine
is running, will restore polarity.  Perhaps someone else can explain this
more precisely!

Kevin Wong

------------------------------

From: "Frank" <frank@trident.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 02:07:13 -0300
Subject: Re: Engine Blues...

> Brian, you should have bought the NAPA Auto Parts Olds Blue paint.  Thats
the
> color of paint on mine and Rick, Aaron, Sal, Bill and gang.
>
> Mark Prince
> W MACHINES
>
>

I have some cans I bought a while back from Brothers.When I took their
label off
the can,guess what,NAPA paint.Learn something new every day.
Frank

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 03:40:09 -0300
Subject: New sibling's update (was: getting enough and misc. topics)

>> From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
>> Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 01:34:22 -0300
>> Subject: I can't get enough!!! (and then there were three....)
>>
>> Well, I had some local make my day today.  There's been an '82 Cutlass
>> Brougham sitting in the same spot for roughly two years that ~I~ know of
>> [...] Factory AM/FM/Cassette
>> still there.  Don't work.
>
>What, won't play tapes? Stretched/broken drive belt. Trivial repair
>if you're handy with little screwdrivers, etc...

Actually, turned on radio, speakers popped, no sound from tuner.  Didn't
try sticking a tape in at all.  Won't dare until I run a cleaner and
demagnatizer through it.
>
>> Subject: Re: I can't get enough!!! (and then there were three....)
>>
>> >I think that you've lost your mind.
>>
>> Yeah, I've always suspected that ;)
>>
>>  Are you sure that you are a college
>> >graduate?  I'll bet the degree is in business majoring in acquisitions.
>>
>> Well, it's a Bachelor's in Automotive Technology
>
>Ah-hah. So what you're telling us, Charley, is that officially,
>you're BATs.
>
>-- Andy


Exactly.  But I'm having fun, so that's all that counts.

To further prove my insanity, I spent tonight polishing out scratches in
the ~new~ car.  Even the scratches ~inside~ the dents!  Most of 'em came
out fine.  Amazing stuff!  Started buffing the top surfaces.  Trunk will
shine, but is gonna be wavy.  Top will be rough.  Hood's gonna be
~beautiful~ :)  Did one side of the trunk and hood (to make ~sure~ I finish
the project :)  If I just did the hood first, I'd never get around to the
trunk (ya don't see it when driving...)  It sure looks good from here,
anyway, now that it's clean.  It's definately got potential for being a
really nice car.  I think I have a fender available (that's even the same
color, as I recall, might be a darker silver, though.)  The upper header
panel should survive OK, just needs to be relieved of the pressure that's
holding it in.  Same for the bumper covers.  Bumper might straighten out
safely.  Can't say for sure, just yet.  Engine sure is rough.  Air cleaner
is completely saturated with oil.  Smokes like crazy.  Begging for that
403...  Hmmm...

I shot a few pics today of it (lined up with the other two) and I should
have them back Wed. night.  If my web page is still alive, I'll post them
there.  I haven't gotten authorization to start moving in to the new sight
yet, so I'm kinda getting nervous.

             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: "Scott  and / or Janet when you know us you will know who it is"
<Scott_Janet@ msn.com> Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 22:38:41 -0300 Subject: [none]

Hi My Name is Soctt i'm looking for a 72 Ram air hood for a cutlass 442  any
help would be greatly appricatied

Always Scott

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 06:34:46 -0300
Subject: Re: Engine Blues...

On Mon, 2 Jun 1997, Brian Lorway wrote:
> Found something out today... The Olds blue engine paint that Year One sells
> is big time different in color than the blue engine paint Fusick sells.
> Year One is a darker metallic blue and Fusick's is more of a lighter
> silverish metallic blue. Which one is closer to what the factory used?

And the stuff that Specialty Olds and Bill Hirsch sell in spray cans is
different again from both each other and those two as well. The closest
I've seen is Bill Hirsch's in quart cans. But you have to have your own
spray setup to use it.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: slick442@webtv.net (slick442)
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 08:20:55 -0300
Subject: Re: More Parts For Sale

Dear Jim,

I am new to the mailing list.  We have been restoring a 1972 Olds 442
with 455 engine,  4 speed, I noticed you had parts  for sale.  We are in
search of a grille for our car.  We did find one in a salvage yard in
"fair condition", Year One has the grilles for sale but at $369 a pair,
OUCH!!  If you might know where we could find a used one in better
condition, could you let me know??  Also, could you let me know if this
message gets thru to you.

Thanks for your time in this matter.

Sincerely,
Mark and Rosemary
(Arkansas)

------------------------------

From: BigEJ@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 08:34:14 -0300
Subject: 303 Engines (Long)

Hi Everyone:

For all you 50's Olds fans here is a copy of the summary of the article in
Classic Auto Restorer for the FAQ.  Hope you enjoy it.  Comments?



For the 1949 model year Oldsmobile introduced the Rocket V-8 engine.  This
was a truly revolutionary development for those times.  To help put this
engine in perspective, Ford was the recognized "fast car" with its flathead
V-8 engines.  No other affordable car of the day could approach Fords
performance potential.   The Ford V-8 engines of the day were rated at 100
horsepower and they had at least 15 years of development to get there.   The
new Oldsmobile Rocket engine was rated at 135 horsepower, a 35% increase!!

This new engine incorporated a number of  unique designs all with the idea of
raising the compression ratio from the days standard of approximately 6:1 to
an eventual 12:1.  The Rocket engine never reached the 12:1 goal, but but
it's offspring came very close.  The new engine combined for the first time
(excluding the almost simultaneous introduction of the similar Cadillac
engine) a 90 degree V-8 with overhead valves and slipper pistons.  This
Rocket had 303 cubic inches, a 7.25:1 compression ratio, two barrel carb and
could produce 135 hp at 3600 rpm, and 263 lb-ft of torque at 1800 rpm.
 Interestingly, Oldsmobile didn't have a standard transmission that they felt
could stand the torque of this new engine, so Hydra-matic was the only
transmission choice for the 1949 Rockets.  In 1950 Olds raided Cadillacs
parts bins and used their standard 3-speed, a transmission that had an
excellent reputation among hot rodders of the time.   1951 and on Olds used a
"selector-type"  3-speed transmission that is considered much inferior to the
1950 units.

The 303 engine has earned a reputation as being  remarkably trouble free.
 With proper maintanence the engine should give 100,000 miles with little
trouble.  Heads and blocks just didn't seem to ever crack, these engines were
way over engineered!
Some have described this engine as an early, indestructable, version of the
small block Chevy.  That descripition is not entirely correct however,
actually the Chevy engine was an updated version of this engine!

The 303 engine was used in various forms from 1949 to the 1953 model year,
and in 1954 the engine was enlarged to 324 cubic inches.  This was a result
of increasing the bore from 3 3/4 inches to 3 7/8 inches.  The engine was
again enlarged in 1957 to 371 cubic inches and again to its final size of 394
cubic inches in 1959.

Any engine from 1949 thru 1958 will bolt into a 1949 to 1953 body without
much trouble.  Olds did go to 12 volt electrics in 1953, so that would likely
be the biggest problem area in swapping these engines.  The 303 engine power
steering cars used different intake manifolds than the non power steering
cars.  These first engines also had interchangeable left and right exhaust
manifolds.

The 303 Rocket did have one weak area however, noisy valve train!  Much of
the problem originated in the poor oils available in the early days and was
increased dramatically by not paying strict attention to oil change
intervals.  If it is necessary to replace valve train componants some of the
scarce (read expensive) oe parts can be substituted with more common (read
much less expensive) small block Chevy parts.
All Olds 303 cam bearings are the same as Chevy ª2 and ª5 bearings.  It takes
three sets to make one, but its still much less expensive.  Each bearing will
need an oil hole drilled, but thats it.  An Olds cam has a large base circle
(large lobes) and they are becoming rare.  A worn cam may be reground and
reused with a set of small block Chevy lifters for much less than NOS Olds
cam and lifters.  You can still use the Olds push rods this way, they're the
correct length!

Finally, proper lifter preload must be assured to keep your Rocket from
ticking away.
Lifter preload is when all the clearance is out of the valve train with the
valve closed, the distance the pushrod seat in the lifter is below it's
retainer.  The correct spec is .030 to .050 inch for all stock applications.

Rod bearings are the same as those used in Pontiac 326 cubic inch to 455
cubic inch motors into the 70's.  Main bearings are not used by any other
motors so they will be more rare.  The main bearings are all the same except
for the last (ª5) bearing which is larger and the thrust bearing.  The
bearing caps are numbered on their right side.   If necessary to turn the
crank .010 to .020 won't weaken it.

303 Rocket Specs.

Bore and Stroke  3 3/4 x 3 7/16 inch
Displacement 303.7 ci
Compression Ratio 7.25:1
Maximum Brake Horsepower 135 @ 3600rpm
Maximum Torque  263 lb ft @ 1800rpm
Oil pressure  40 psi

Tune up Specs.

Spark Plugs     AC 45;  gap .030
Timing  Between two balls on crank pulley (1949), middle of slot on pulley
(others)
Idle Speed     375rpm in drive  (425 manual trans)
Head Bolt Torque 65-70 lb-ft.
Compression pressure 120 psi @ cranking speed
Valve spring pressure   141 lbs @ 1 1/2in.
Valve seat angle 45 degrees
Point gap  .016 in
Piston Specs.

Ring gap:  Compression:
                        Sealed Power   .008 in
                        Perfect Circle   .010 in
                         Oil    same

Wristpin diameter       .9803-.9807in


Bearing Specs.

Connecting rod bearings:
         Journal Diameter         2.2488-2.2498 in.
         Bearing Clearance        .0009-.0029 in
         Rod end play                .002-.011 in
         Rod Bolt Tension           45-50 lb-ft

Main bearings
          Journal diameter ª1,2,3,4 - 2.498-2.499 in
                                   ª5           2.623-2.624 in
           Clearance        .0005-.003 in
                      ª5        .002-.0035
           Main bolt tension  ª1,2,3,4,    100 lb-ft.
                                      ª5             140 lb-ft



Elephant Engine Ernie

------------------------------

From: Thomas Martin <marttj@pcmail1.css.mot.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 09:19:06 -0300
Subject: 403 in 81-88 Cutlass?

Anyone have any experience running a 403 in the last of the G-Body
Cutlass's?  I was wondering how they handle the 2.14's or what sort of
mileage they typically run.  My 400 Pontiac (1970 "WS" with 66 Armasteel
crank) in my 80 T/A typically gets 12 city and 18 highway if kept at
reasonable speeds.  The T/A has 3.08's.

What would be optimum gearing for a G-Body with the 403?

I seem to have to put my 307 rebuild on hold, (they guy hasn't pulled
the engine yet) so I may just scrap that idea and go with a 350/403.

What would be the best cam to run on a daily driven car?

What is the weight of the 81-88 G-Body cars?

Thanks!
Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme 307

------------------------------

From: Thomas Martin <marttj@pcmail1.css.mot.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 09:23:05 -0300
Subject: 307 with TBI?

I thought that the 307 was the last GM product to be carburated, and it
did so to the bitter end in 1990 with the Cadillac D-Body and B-Body
wagons.  I never have seen or heard and reference to the 307 being TBI
or MPI.  The Olds 350 in the mid to late 70's got FI, but I heard the
4BBL would smoke it.

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme 307

------------------------------

From: joshstrub@csgnyc1.attmail.com (joshstrub)
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 10:39:15 -0300
Subject: Jetstar 88 Convertible For Sale

I have a 1965 Jetstar 88 Convertible.  The car has the interior taken out and
the power top off, the nose is off but the engine and trans are still in it.
I need to get rid of it and would like it to go to a good home to be
completed.  I have all the parts and then some to put it back together.

Extra Parts:
New top including Glass Window
3 Grills
Extra rear Bummper
Driverside Quarter
Side Trim
Console from a 64 Starfire and Shifter
Nose chrome
Buckets
Rebuilt Radio 65 Olds Radio (AM/FM)
65 Olds Tach
Power window motors
Power Seat Motor
Vent Windows
Gove Box Door
Service Manuals and literature
Original Vanity Mirror
Power Anntena

I would Like $2,000 for everything.  I am located in Central New Jersey.

Please Contact me at joshstrub@mail.att.net

Thank you

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 09:55:18 -0300
Subject: Re: 69 H/O cam

At 12:35 AM 6/3/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Hi all, is there anyone who can help me out here.......I'm looking for a
>camshaft for my 69 H/O as I will be rebuilding it soon, and the cam is
>presumably worn, and I would like to replace it if possible.  The cam
>factory ª is 400166, and is of the L-32 variety (W34) with .472 lift,
>285/287 duration, intake centerline of 118 degrees, exhaust centerline of
>112 degrees, intake opens 24 degrees BTC, closes 81 deg. ABC, and the
>exhaust numbers are open 74 deg. BBC and close 33 deg ATC.
>
>If a new GM one isn't possible, is there an aftermarket company that has
>something close? Or other factory cams? I thought about an aftermarket
>.474/308 cam, but I'm not sure if these so-called "factory replacement"
>cams are up to snuff on their profiles.  Any suggestions?  I'd be willing
>to check out a good used cam if I have to.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Mike Rothe
>

Mike

        Supercars Unlimited in Portland, Oregon has duplicates of the
original cam.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 09:55:19 -0300
Subject: Re: More Parts For Sale

At 08:20 AM 6/3/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Dear Jim,
>
>I am new to the mailing list.  We have been restoring a 1972 Olds 442
>with 455 engine,  4 speed, I noticed you had parts  for sale.  We are in
>search of a grille for our car.  We did find one in a salvage yard in
>"fair condition", Year One has the grilles for sale but at $369 a pair,
>OUCH!!  If you might know where we could find a used one in better
>condition, could you let me know??  Also, could you let me know if this
>message gets thru to you.
>
>Thanks for your time in this matter.
>
>Sincerely,
>Mark and Rosemary
>(Arkansas)
>

Mark and Rosemary,

        Hi! Welcome to and I'm glad you found the list. It's a really neat
place with lots of information. I have a 72 442 and I know what your talking
about. The car I bought had fairly nice original grilles in it but, I wanted
to replace them with new ones. The prices do fluctuate between parts places.
Try Tamaraz's had them listed for $299.00 a pair. Tamaraz's ª is (630)
904-4500 for info and to ordering it's (800) 442-4601,  Specialty Olds  has
them for $325.00 a pair and their ª is (941) 293-7966. If you want to find
N.O.S. grilles expect to pay about $600.00 per pair. Message got through
with no problems.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass Supreme SX W-32
72 442 (350)
86 Ninety Eight
94 Cutlass Supreme
96 C-1500
Virginia Beach, VA
(757) 474-0869

------------------------------

From: katana72@juno.com (Rob T)
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 10:10:19 -0300
Subject: Re: Cam Question for 350

On Sun, 1 Jun 1997 20:14:04 -0300 Daren@qconline.com writes:
>OL>That's similar to my cam in my 72 Cutlass. I have higher lift ,
>though.
>OL>My bottom end still sucks!!! I don't make any aggressive power
>until 3000
>OL>rpm. I would look at a custom grind with more overlap so you can
>get
>OL>better off the line performance.
>OL>>
>
>Advancing the cam timing can help low end power.
>
>Daren
>
>O.C.A. ª23571
>daren@qconline.com
>
It didn't !!  My cam is 4 degrees advanced via roller timing chain and
gear set.I have one that is 4 befor, 0, and 4 after. Yes, it is in the 4
before position!!

Katana72
>

------------------------------

From: Ray Moriarty <rmoriarty@blairinc.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 10:17:59 -0300
Subject: Test, Please Ignore



------------------------------

From: Jon442@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 10:23:19 -0300
Subject: Re: 69 H/O cam

Check out Supercars Unlimited in Oregon... they are heavy into Olds stuff

------------------------------

From: Daren & Laurie <daren@revealed.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 10:50:43 -0300
Subject: Re: Cam Question for 350

Rob T wrote:
>
> On Sun, 1 Jun 1997 20:14:04 -0300 Daren@qconline.com writes:
> >OL>That's similar to my cam in my 72 Cutlass. I have higher lift ,
> >though.
> >OL>My bottom end still sucks!!! I don't make any aggressive power
> >until 3000
> >OL>rpm. I would look at a custom grind with more overlap so you can
> >get
> >OL>better off the line performance.
> >OL>>
> >
> >Advancing the cam timing can help low end power.
> >
> >Daren
> >
> >O.C.A. ª23571
> >daren@qconline.com
> >
> It didn't !!  My cam is 4 degrees advanced via roller timing chain and
> gear set.I have one that is 4 befor, 0, and 4 after. Yes, it is in the 4
> before position!!
>
> Katana72
> >

Did you degree in the cam? Do you know what timing that the cam was
ground at? It could be possible that the cam was ground with some
advance or retarded timing. A friend of mine's 350 with a w? cam (308
dur.) did the same thing. On smooth blacktop he'd punch it from a dead
stop it would spin the tires for about 10 feet then catch traction and
as soon as it hit 3000 rpm the tires would let out a chirp and push you
back pretty hard in the seat. I thought it was kinda cool. Kinda like a
poor mans nitrous.

Daren
daren@revealed.net

------------------------------

From: dedarnell@electro-matic.com
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 11:05:39 -0300
Subject: Driveshaft length

I've done the 350/th350 swap to 455/th400.  Does anyone know how much to
cut off the driveshaft, or do I have to measure from tailshaft to the rear?
I read somewhere that the driveshaft with the rubber dampers in them are
weak.  Is this true?  Does anyone have a driveshaft off of a big block
cutlass that they want to sell(I live in SE Michigan)?  Or am I better off
keeping mine and having it cut?

thanks,
Dave
'71 Cutlass conv.

------------------------------

From: slick442@webtv.net (slick442)
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 11:03:53 -0300
Subject: Re: More Parts For Sale

Dear Jim,
Well I'll be darn this thing really does work!!  *Smile*  Thanks for
getting back with me so soon.  Thanks for the Phone numbers also I will
give them a call!!  Also I seen a couple of e-mails floating around
about the AC... what is this R-34 or was it R... something... didn't
have to have a licsence to buy and install it.  Also I am needing a
place to send my radio and 8-track to for repair... got any
suggestions??  Also, do  you have any remote mirror cables, mine has
broke and the mirror can't be moved, do you have any of these??  We are
about 90% restored on this car and are trying to get the little things
taken care of now.
Thanks again for the prompt reply.

Rosemary
1972 Olds 442

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 11:37:23 -0300
Subject: Re: More Parts For Sale

At 11:03 AM 6/3/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Dear Jim,
>Well I'll be darn this thing really does work!!  *Smile*  Thanks for
>getting back with me so soon.  Thanks for the Phone numbers also I will
>give them a call!!  Also I seen a couple of e-mails floating around
>about the AC... what is this R-34 or was it R... something... didn't
>have to have a licsence to buy and install it.  Also I am needing a
>place to send my radio and 8-track to for repair... got any
>suggestions??  Also, do  you have any remote mirror cables, mine has
>broke and the mirror can't be moved, do you have any of these??  We are
>about 90% restored on this car and are trying to get the little things
>taken care of now.
>Thanks again for the prompt reply.
>
>Rosemary
>1972 Olds 442
>
Rosemary,

        Yes this place really works.  The freon your talking about is
R-134A. It's the type found in all newer vehicles. You can do a conversion
of your present system by changing the hoses, fittings and get rid of all
the olds style oil in your system. I haven't done any of these yet, so I
can't say that I recommend it or not. As for the mirrors yes we have them,
but right now we're only selling them in sets. They run $100.00 a pair. You
can still get new ones of the drivers side but they cost $135.00 ea. Let us
know if your interested in a pair.

Thanks,
Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: Etzel Bobby <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 13:12:40 -0300
Subject: RE: More Parts For Sale

__________________________________________________________________________=
_____

>At 11:03 AM 6/3/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Also I am needing a
>place to send my radio and 8-track to for repair... got any
>suggestions??
>
>Rosemary
>1972 Olds 442


Hi Rosemary

I have a reply to an e-mail from someone I sent. I was looking for some =
other things. He has a  72 Olds am/fm stereo for sale "it has good chrome =
& the knobs are included" he said. He wants $140.00 for it. You can reply =
to him at: tubular-ed@juno.com (Ed A Pennypacker).

Also this other reply I received from Tony Cerasin offered to recone =
speakers for $15 ea plus shipping. His e-mail address is =
cerasin@northwest.com. He might be able to restore your radio also.

I have a card and pricelist from someone that was at a carshow that =
repairs radios, that I will locate and provide the information also.


Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the.....Past

------------------------------

From: "Kerr, Brian (R)" <Brian.Kerr@toronto.basf-corp.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 03:52:38 -0300
Subject: FW: re:motors

From: O=Intermail; DDA.TYPE=RFC-822;
DDA.VALUE=endl.us.com(b)dal(u)allan(a)endl.us.com
To: Kerr, Brian; kerr
Subject: re:motors
Date: Monday, June 02, 1997 9:39PM

DATE: Jun 03 01:37:06 1997 GMT
IPMessageID: 33937553.endl(a)endl.us.com

FROM: Dal Allan [O=Intermail; DDA.TYPE=RFC-822;
DDA.VALUE=dal(u)allan(a)mcimai
      l.com]

TO: Kerr, Brian [S=Kerr; G=Brian; OU1=toronto]

SUBJECT: re:motors
IMPORTANCE: normal
PRIORITY:
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

 --
Hi Brian,

Sounds good to me.

Let me know whether both work and where to send money.

All the best,

Dal


Dal:

I don't know how big a hurry you are for this, but due to work pressures,
and the fact that my shop/garage that I share with my brother is 50 miles
away, it will be a week or two before I can get them checked and tested etc
for shipping.
You can Email me direct at kerrb@basf-corp.com, or call me during the day at
1-800 -565 9586.

brian kerr

------------------------------

From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 13:27:30 -0300
Subject: Re: 403 in 81-88 Cutlass?

Thomas Martin wrote:
>
> Anyone have any experience running a 403 in the last of the G-Body
> Cutlass's?  I was wondering how they handle the 2.14's or what sort of
> mileage they typically run.  My 400 Pontiac (1970 "WS" with 66 Armasteel
> crank) in my 80 T/A typically gets 12 city and 18 highway if kept at
> reasonable speeds.  The T/A has 3.08's.

My H/O with 3.73's and a 307 gets the same gas mileage, a 403 with
similar gears would be horrible (but at that point you're having so much
fun, who cares?).

> What would be optimum gearing for a G-Body with the 403?

Depends what you want to do with it and if you're getting an overdrive
tranny or not.  I think Tom Millard has a 403 on his '79 with a built
200-4R, he might be able to say how it's holding up if he's still
around.  With overdrive, some 3.42's or maybe 3.73's.  With a TH-350 I'd
say that 3.08's would be about maximum.  If you plan to do a lot of
highway cruising, then something in the mid to high 2.x's.

> What would be the best cam to run on a daily driven car?

Do you need to pass emissions?  If not, a Mondello 18-20 or Edelbrock
cam would be a good choice.  If you're adventureous, maybe a Mondello
20-22.

> What is the weight of the 81-88 G-Body cars?

About 3400-3600 depending on options.  T-top cars are heavier.
Accessories like A/C add a lot of weight.  Remember though that the 403
should weigh approximately the same as the 307 (probably less since
you're missing 96 cid of metal).

Don't forget that you'll probably need a beefier rear end for that 403.
An 8.5" out of an H/O, 442 (3.73's), or GN (3.42's) would be best, but
they're very hard to find.  A 7 5/8's rear out of a Monte SS (I hear
that S10 trucks have them too, and that the 7 5/8's will fit into your
normal 7.5" housing) should be strong enough, and are easier to find.

Tom Lentz
tlentz@ior.com

------------------------------

From: "Mike Haas" <mikeh@starnine.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 15:07:39 -0300
Subject: Help a Toro...

It's one of those "invisible" parts that you never think about, but boy, is it
a pain not to have!

I'm talking about the turn-signal switch for a '66 Toro.  Anyone have one?

Mike Haas

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 16:50:05 -0300
Subject: Re: Olds 350 FUBAR?

> I got home and checked the timing, I couldn't even see the mark!

Are you sure this isn't pointing to a problem with timing?

> (compression check was fine, all cylinders within 10psi of each other)
> (vacuum check revealed ignition miss or a sticking valve)

Good man! Going back to the timing, I think you need to establish that you can
 see what the engine is timed at. The timing guage has a hole in it for a
timing/tuneup machine's magnetic pickup. This is the most accurate method of
setting the timing. Unless you are lucky, only garages have these, but it
might be worth having it done to verify how close the timing pointer is, and
to set the timing.

Maybe adjust the timing until the balancer line shows on the guage. A trip
up/down the driveway or around the block can't hurt if the adjustment makes it
 run worse. I'm assuming no WOT blasts until it runs better! :)


David Brown       Mailto:dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com  OR  http://www.en.com/users/thall

Get the zip file for local viewing from:
          ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds
- ------------

------------------------------

From: "Douglas J Harkema" <harkema2@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 16:18:52 -0300
Subject: 1970 cowl tag is this right

Hi I want to check if this is right.

Cowl tag reads: St7034487LAN359989BDY

TR930
14-14PNT
01C

ST70  =  year 1970
34487  =  body style =  442 2dr holiday
Lan  =  Lansing MI
rest =body ª

TR930  =Black buckets
14-14PNT = Platinum
01C= third week in January 1970

Is this correct?
p.s. What is this car worth in probably a 3to 4 condition with non ª's
matching but totally rebuilt drivetrain?

Your help is appreciated

Thanks
Doug

Lansing, MI

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 18:20:37 -0300
Subject: Re: 1970 cowl tag is this right

>Doug
>
        P.S.  Yes you were correct with your cowl tag.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 18:19:30 -0300
Subject: Re: 1970 cowl tag is this right

At 04:18 PM 6/3/97 -0300, you wrote:
>Hi I want to check if this is right.
>
>Cowl tag reads: St7034487LAN359989BDY
>
>TR930
>14-14PNT
>01C
>
>ST70  =  year 1970
>34487  =  body style =  442 2dr holiday
>Lan  =  Lansing MI
>rest =body ª
>
>TR930  =Black buckets
>14-14PNT = Platinum
>01C= third week in January 1970
>
>Is this correct?
>p.s. What is this car worth in probably a 3to 4 condition with non ª's
matching >but totally rebuilt drivetrain? > >Your help is appreciated >
>Thanks >Doug > >Lansing, MI > > Doug,

        Is it possible, it's a W-30? You might want to look closer. In ª3
condition my personal opinion is that if it's a STD.442 it's worth about
$3000-$4000. If it's a W-30 with all the parts present add $1500. This is
just a ballpark figure.

Jim Chermack
70 Cutlass Supreme SX W-32
72 442 (350)
86 Ninety Eight
94 Cutlass Supreme
96 C-1500

------------------------------

From: "Chris R. Smetana" <Chris_R._Smetana@dadc.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 17:52:08 -0300
Subject: W-30/W-31

Hi All,
       I was wondering if anybody knew what a good price for the ram-air
setup for a 68-69 W-31 (or W-30 for that matter) would cost.  I don't need
the dual snorkle air cleaner (thankfully), I was just wondering what a good
price for the correct and original scoops along with the brackets and hoses
would cost.  My 69 W-31 is missing the hoses and scoops and I think one
small bracket.  I have found a guy who has a complete ram-air assembly that
is correct for 69, still in original gm boxes.  I saw in the latest JWO
that Ron Memmer also has some scoops and I will call him to see what he's
asking for them.  Has anyone ever seen the brackets for sale either
individually or as a set?  I have seen a few different sources for the
repro scoops and hoses and I believe they run about $65 for the hoses and
about $360 for the scoops, but I would like to try and find originals.  Any
ideas or guesstimates of price is appreciated.  Thanks.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
chris_r._smetana@dadc.com
or
csmetana@disc.sony.com

1969 Cutlass W-31
2 1966 GTO's - one is a parts car
1971 Skylark custom convertable
1989 Mustang LX 5.0 hatchback
1977 Ford LTD - hey is was free

------------------------------

From: Charley Buehner <buehner@cis.nmclites.edu>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 18:57:40 -0300
Subject: Re: 403 in 81-88 Cutlass?

>My H/O with 3.73's and a 307 gets the same gas mileage, a 403 with
>similar gears would be horrible (but at that point you're having so much
>fun, who cares?).
>
>> What would be optimum gearing for a G-Body with the 403?
>

When I had the 403 in the Rockit, (with the 2.29's) I'd get 18 pretty
easily on the highway.  Off the line, it ~positively~ sucked, but once I
hit 30 to 35, there was no stopping the car.  That is the setup I broke 150
in.  The 403 was a Firebird stocker, with a million or so miles on it.  I
loved that motor, too :)  (Right up until the ª1 rod decided it wanted to
exit through the timing chain, and took part of the crank with it)  Built
well, the 403 is a ~really~ stealthy item, since no one (outside our little
~professional~ group here) will likely even notice it's a different motor.
I still like that option :)

I switched to 2.73's after a while, and that 403 really came to life.  I
never got to test the mileage, though.  The motor blew, and then I put the
big block, and soon the 3.23 posi in it.  Goodbye gas...


Hello fun :)



             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
             500 4th Ave.          | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
             Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass ~Dead 425~
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "FAST FWD" (Soon)   | '67 Toronado 425
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

From: Rod Rickenbach <rod@hopi.dtcc.edu>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 19:26:50 -0300
Subject: Re: W-30/W-31

On Tue, 3 Jun 1997, Chris R. Smetana wrote:

>
>
>
>
> Hi All,
>        I was wondering if anybody knew what a good price for the ram-air
> setup for a 68-69 W-31 (or W-30 for that matter) would cost.  I don't need
> the dual snorkle air cleaner (thankfully), I was just wondering what a good
> price for the correct and original scoops along with the brackets and hoses
> would cost.  My 69 W-31 is missing the hoses and scoops and I think one
> small bracket.  I have found a guy who has a complete ram-air assembly that
> is correct for 69, still in original gm boxes.  I saw in the latest JWO
> that Ron Memmer also has some scoops and I will call him to see what he's
> asking for them.  Has anyone ever seen the brackets for sale either
> individually or as a set?  I have seen a few different sources for the
> repro scoops and hoses and I believe they run about $65 for the hoses and
> about $360 for the scoops, but I would like to try and find originals.  Any
> ideas or guesstimates of price is appreciated.  Thanks.

I sold a commplete '69 ram air setup new in the boxes for $1200 last
year...  I wonder if the guy who bought it from me is selling it now...

- -Rod
-
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
    Rod Rickenbach                                       Delaware Tech
     rod@dtcc.edu                                 Computer Services Department
http://www.dtcc.edu/~rod                            Stanton/Wilmington Campus

------------------------------

From: CRuper1@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 20:06:21 -0300
Subject: Re: 403 in 81-88 Cutlass?

In a message dated 97-06-03 15:47:14 EDT, you write:

<< > What would be optimum gearing for a G-Body with the 403?

 Depends what you want to do with it and if you're getting an overdrive
 tranny or not.  I think Tom Millard has a 403 on his '79 with a built
 200-4R, he might be able to say how it's holding up if he's still
 around.  With overdrive, some 3.42's or maybe 3.73's.  With a TH-350 I'd
 say that 3.08's would be about maximum.  If you plan to do a lot of
 highway cruising, then something in the mid to high 2.x's. >>

You could also get away with a higher ratio if you're using a TH-350C with
the torque convertor lock-up on it.

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

From: S/P 0666 <olds442@en.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 20:08:22 -0300
Subject: Tunnel ram/heads/ect..

Welp, I took back the tunnel ram. In part due to the fact that
spacers($75) and special linkage($150) were required to run double
pumpers on it(sideways), along with the machine shops opinion that there
would be no advantage using a tunnel ram on a motor that won't see more
than 6500rpm.  So now there is an Offy Super Sonic hi rise single plane
sitting on my short block, and a 1050 Dominator sitting on top of that.
I was also able to return the Comp Cams cam (.540/.540/252@.050) and
Hyd. lifters.  I think I'm going to opt for the solid lifter Mondello
grind .562/.594 270/280@.050.  Any opinions?

As for my heads I finally recieved them from Greg Bowles (a list
member).  They are 70 Toro "E" heads (someone ground down the "E" into
an "F") The EGR bumps have been removed and the intake/exhaust throats
look to be mildly ported.  The combustion chambers have been polished.
One head has the heat riser blocked off. (not bad for $100) I'll have a
local Olds guy port them out fully, mill them .040-.050, and block off
the other riser.

  It's been a long time comming but looks like I'll be starting this bad
boy in the next few weeks.  :)

Ken

------------------------------

From: Bryan Bodine <bbodine@matrix.uti.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 22:28:05 -0300
Subject: Ram-air setup

Hey everyone,

I was just reading Chris Smetana's mail and it struck a question that I
have.  I have a '71 442 with the ram air hood.  I have a standard air
cleaner with it.  What all do I need to purchase to get the full effect
of the forced air system?  Do I need a new air cleaner or just a
different setup?

Bryan Bodine

------------------------------

From: CRuper1@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 20:24:25 -0300
Subject: Question for Charley, et al., on rear end gearing

I have a question for Charley, and of course, everyone else.  The reason I
specifically say him is that he has alot of the same stuff I'm thinking about
doing, already done.

Ok, here goes.  I have my '81 Cutlass with a slightly tired '77 350 (Olds.,
of course) in it.  The car currently has 2.29 gears in it (as far as the axle
code tells me), and I have a TH-350C in it also (torque lock-up).  I have
recntly hold ahold of a set of gears (carrier, and all) which are marked
15/41 (2.73's, right?) which were out of a ten bolt Buick Station Wagon, and
I got them for free.  Now, I'm interested in putting them in my car, but I'd
like to find out what's involved, and find out any helpful tips from others.
 I'm thinking if this will fit, and work out, I'd try it over the 4th weekend
(4 days long for me).

First, will this swap work for me?  I'm not sure about the specifics of what
my axle is any more than that 9ring size, axle clips, or whatever, etc.).

Second, for Charley, and maybe others with similar set-ups, what kind of
mileage can I expect (I know Charley's had 2.73's in there, or was it
2.56's?).

Third, how hard is the swap?  Anything special to be done, or needs to be
taken care of.  Is it best to just swap the carriers, or just gears?  (The
gears, and carrier are supposed to be fine, I got them from a friend at a
shop who was working on this car.  The guy thought it might be the rear end,
but after ordering the gears, and replacing them, he found it was something
with the axle tube, or some other item like that.  And since the new gears
were in, the other guy just didn't want them.)

Fourth, what type/brand of fluid do you guys recommend upon re-assembly?

And of course, any other helpful hints, and tips you guys can offer.  I'm
sure I'll have a few more questions as thing progress.

Thanks in advance,
Chris Ruper

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 21:18:11 -0300
Subject: Re: Question for Charley, et al., on rear end gearing

At 08:24 PM 6/3/97 -0300, CRuper1@aol.com wrote:

>Second, for Charley, and maybe others with similar set-ups, what kind of
>mileage can I expect (I know Charley's had 2.73's in there, or was it
>2.56's?).

My 80 442 has a 350/TH-350 with 2.73's and I get 12-13mpg city and 14-17
highway.

>Fourth, what type/brand of fluid do you guys recommend upon re-assembly?

Mobil 1 75w90. It is synthetic and works great. I have it in the "other" car.

- - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, OH  f-body list since: 5/95
93 Camaro Z/28........Patriot Red, A4, 3.23, PEG2,  TFX cat-back, 160 stat,
homeade cold air intake, !TB, fan switch, Mobil 1 fluids, light covers
http://www.kxan.com/~rwillis/labay.html ..13.402@101.2
80 Olds 442 W-30........http://www.442.com./labay.htm ...show car

------------------------------

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