
oldsmobile-digest       Sunday, August 10 1997       Volume 01 : Number 793



delta 88s II
Re: Suggestion: An International Helping Hand
Re: My 4-4-2 story, (long)
Re: Sparkmobile - More Diagnostics
Re: delta 88s II
Re: new to this
Re: '76 Cutlass rear end setup
Service Manuals
pivot pin thread size
Re: delta 88s II
68 Delta Custom`
Re: Tilt wheel-- Pivot pins???
Re: delta 88s II
Re: Value of car
Re: delta 88s II
OLDS (3) 4 Sale
Re: Service Manuals
Heads swap-advice/help needed
Re: Just addin' my name to the Lansing List!
Re: My 70 442 Ready for Paint (Finally!!!)
Alternator Conversion Confusion
Re: 68 Delta Custom`
Re: 68 Delta Custom`
back issues of "Journey with Olds", want them?
85Cutlassprobsagain
'68 Cutlass 455 Engine Color
Re: '68 Cutlass 455 Engine Color
Re: back issues of "Journey with Olds", want them?
Re: 70' Rear Bumper
Re: '68 Cutlass 455 Engine Color
Re: A couple Old Olds' Found
Re: back issues of "Journey with Olds", want them?
Re: 85Cutlassprobsagain
Re: '68 Cutlass 455 Engine Color
Key question
Re: Key question
Re: back issues of "Journey with Olds", want them?
brake pedal problem
Web Page
Re: brake pedal problem
SSIII,s
Re: brake pedal problem
Re: 68 Delta Custom`
Re: 71 442 Altenator
Re: A gift from my wife
'68 Color Codes
Re: '68 Cutlass 455 Engine Color
Re: 85Cutlassprobsagain
Re: Key question
Re: pivot pin thread size
Re: 85Cutlassprobsagain
Re: brake pedal problem
Re: An International Helping Hand
=?iso-8859-1?Q?Hubcap_=B478_Supreme?=
Re: OLDS (3) 4 Sale

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 00:13:00 -0400
From: issval@maracaibo.ipm.slb.com (ISSVAL)
Subject: delta 88s II

hi all,

Here we go. Time for the update of the 88 owners:

	-John Pajak: 65
	-Laura D. Steinke: 66 (Pook the ghost) 
	-Walter ?: 66 
	-Tom Adams: 66
	-Raul Martinez: 66
	-Lisa Malden: 67
	-Paul Fikaris: 69
	-Graham Stewart: 69 (2)
	-myself: 73
	-Dan Gulino: 75
	-John Shelp: 77
	-Mike Jones: 78
	-Greg Beaulieu: 78
	-David Brown: 79 (?)
	-S.Dave Ward: 78 & 85
	-Igor Todorovic: 81
	-Chris Sparks: 82
	-Steve ?: 85
	-Michael R. Hall: 91

Hey, if we continue the list is gonna be longer than the one of the people
going to Lansing!!
88 owners are so quiet...Why is it so? Why is it that the majority of the
posts is about 442, Cutlasses and Toronado?
Is it because there are not so many modifications to be made on 88 engines?
Or owners not really interested in making them?
Different worlds? Muscle cars and pappy's cars? Maybe.
Or they're still in better condition, don't break so often and don't need
any repairs?? (just joking)

But it doesn't matter. WE love our 88s!
And I think Laura really has a ghost car. When I drive my car, people
around DEFINITELY see me. Just try to back up in a parking lot and the next
car waiting for  my empty space will show so much respect by stopping SOOOO
FAR away!!!

How many more to be added on the list?

Alain Lachatre

P.S.: Wish I had all the money for everything I want to do on my car. Send
your donations to ...

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Aug 1997 23:48:24 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Suggestion: An International Helping Hand

Great Idea, I was especially moved by the lost hubcap story in Germany.
Willing to help in whatever way I can.

Mick Gillespie, Columbus, Indiana
69 Cutlass S convertible
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

- -----Original Message-----
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: Oldsmobile <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, August 09, 1997 10:30 PM
Subject: Suggestion: An International Helping Hand



>
>I know that one of the reasons I'm looking forward to Lansing is the
>chance to see and possibly buy some parts or memorabilia that I otherwise
>wouldn't ever have a chance of finding here in Nova Scotia. I know it's
>hard for any of us to find stuff for the older cars, but for people
>outside of North America it must be 10 times as tough.
>
>I wonder if there might not be some way for this list -- or at least the
>members of it who are going to Lansing -- to help some of the folks on
>here who are from Europe, South America or Australia. I'm thinking of
>someone like Jim in the Netherlands who has been looking for those '64
>Vista Cruiser scripts for so long. I bet there will be a set to be had in
>Lansing. Why not pick them up for him? I'd be glad to do it if he would
>like me to find them for him and give me a price range that he's willing
>to pay.
>
>What I'm thinking is something like this: the folks in all of the
>far-flung places could post a message stating the parts they really,
>really need along with their acceptable prices, plus the quality, color or
>condition needed. I'm talking about the ones that seem like they are
>totally unobtainable where they live and maybe have given up hope of ever
>finding. Those of us who are going to Lansing could pick one or
>more of the requests and act as their agent in trying to track down the
>pieces. All it would take is goodwill and trust on both sides, and a
>little effort. It might even be fun. I know I always enjoy swap meets the
>most when I'm looking for something specific, and eventually find it.
>Since this promises to be the Olds parts meet to end all parts meets, the
>hunting should be good. I wouldn't think anyone offering to do this would
>want more than their out-of-pocket costs for the items themselves plus
>shipping.
>
>What do you all think? I wouldn't want anyone to think it would be easy
>since dealing with international shipping and exchange is always a
>challenge but I think it would be a nice thing to try. Nor do I wish to
>interfere with those folks who make their living in the parts business,
>but I'd like to offer some of our international members a hand. Comments?
>
>Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 01:41:01 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: My 4-4-2 story, (long)

>Great story.  I noticed your references to VA and MD.  I'm always interested
>in hooking up with Olds owners in the DC area.  I live in Great Falls VA.
> Have you seen the string on the list recently about Chubby's Cruise Night
>every Saturday in Manassas?  I'm planning on being there this Saturday to
>help fill out the Olds contingent.  Any chance you could make it too?  
>

No, I'm in Michigan!  I'm tormented enough by the two hour drive to Lansing, 
(MI), that i'll make in two weeks.  Things always seem to break or wear-out 
on the longer trips!?!  

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 09 Aug 1997 22:07:38 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Sparkmobile - More Diagnostics

Do you possibly have water or condensation in the gas tank thats worked its
way forward into the fuel system as a whole?  Thats a far fetched kind of
idea, but really, trouble shooting is just that - take a shot & see if you
hit anything!

My sticky points do what your describing, but you've checked those.

Keep trying! We're with you (well, not literally, but mentally).




Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '69 Toronado, '72
Vista Cruiser 

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 09 Aug 1997 22:10:17 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: delta 88s II

Alain - can I get you to fix my name?  I'm starting to feel like I'm
related to Karl (Malden).  It's Madsen - 

Thanks -

Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '69 Toronado, '72
Vista Cruiser 

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 01:02:30 -0500
From: dnewman@wcbi.com (Doug Newman)
Subject: Re: new to this

Craig wrote:

>Hello,
>
> <snip> I've had a 67 Cutlass Supreme for about nine years now. I
>got it from my Grandmother when I was 16. I joined the Marine Corps 2 years
>later and left it with my parents to take care of (BIG mistake).It's been
>sitting out in the sun in California for about seven years now, and is need
>of a lot of work. 

Hi Craig.  What's the term the Navy uses for shipboard justice...Captain's
Mast?  (You should've done that to your parents when they mistreated that
nice Olds.  :-)  Seriously, there are a lot of fine folks on the list that
can help you with your car.  Welcome to the list, and good luck with your '67.

Doug Newman
Columbus, MS
1987 442

http://www.442.com/newman.html
http://wcbi.com  

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 02:06:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: '76 Cutlass rear end setup

In a message dated 97-08-09 10:53:44 EDT, you write:

<< Hi, all...
 
 I have a '76 Cutlass that we are contemplating using only for bracket/very 
 limited street duty with a serious 455/TH400 setup....what rear end setup 
 has anyone had good experience with, and what make/year did that setup come 
 from? Thanks in advance for any help!
 
  >>
hey Mike, the rearend you have now under the car is a corporate 8.5 rearend.
 Auburn carriers and Morossos are availible and so are the ring and pinions.

sizes include  3.08, 3.23, 3.42, 3.73, 3.90, 4.10 and 4.56.  For a bracket
racer with street duty, go with the 4.10.  I am myself using the corporate 10
bolt rearend that was standard from 71 to 79.  Use can use carriers out of
cameros and firebirds also as long they are not the chevy 10 bolt.  The
advice i am giving is to tell you that you do not have to remove the rearend
from the car, but can set it up in the car.

W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
72 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 02:16:34 -0400
From: "Craig Homer" <c6c6d6nb@coastalnet.com>
Subject: Service Manuals

Found this company that sells both original and copies of service and body
manuals.
I don't know what the going price is, but I paid $89.00 for an original
service manual.
They ship USPS first class.

Faxon Auto Literature
3901 Carter Ave
Riverside, CA 92501
1-800-458-2734
fax: 909-786-4166

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 02:31:27 -0400
From: Aaron D Eoff <sheep542@mindspring.com>
Subject: pivot pin thread size

Ok. Heres the problem. I am attempting to "build" my own homemade pivot pin
remover. one suggestion was to use a bolt and carefully pull to remove the
pins. Whats the pivot pin inside thread size or in other words what size
diameter  bolt will screw into the pin. I dont want to strip or damage the pin. 

TIA

Aaron D Eoff
   ///////  ///////
       //       //
      //       //
     //       //
    //       //  'twas a goodyear

1977 Olds Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 08:39:52 -0400
From: "Terry E Teague" <dawgs@conninc.com>
Subject: Re: delta 88s II

issval wrote:
> 
> hi all,
> 
> Here we go. Time for the update of the 88 owners:
> 
>         -John Pajak: 65
>         -Laura D. Steinke: 66 (Pook the ghost)
>         -Walter ?: 66
>         -Tom Adams: 66
>         -Raul Martinez: 66
>         -Lisa Malden: 67
>         -Paul Fikaris: 69
>         -Graham Stewart: 69 (2)
>         -myself: 73
>         -Dan Gulino: 75
>         -John Shelp: 77
>         -Mike Jones: 78
>         -Greg Beaulieu: 78
>         -David Brown: 79 (?)
>         -S.Dave Ward: 78 & 85
>         -Igor Todorovic: 81
>         -Chris Sparks: 82
>         -Steve ?: 85
>         -Michael R. Hall: 91
> 
> Hey, if we continue the list is gonna be longer than the one of the people
> going to Lansing!!
> 88 owners are so quiet...Why is it so? Why is it that the majority of the
> posts is about 442, Cutlasses and Toronado?
> Is it because there are not so many modifications to be made on 88 engines?
> Or owners not really interested in making them?
> Different worlds? Muscle cars and pappy's cars? Maybe.
> Or they're still in better condition, don't break so often and don't need
> any repairs?? (just joking)
> 
> But it doesn't matter. WE love our 88s!
> And I think Laura really has a ghost car. When I drive my car, people
> around DEFINITELY see me. Just try to back up in a parking lot and the next
> car waiting for  my empty space will show so much respect by stopping SOOOO
> FAR away!!!
> 
> How many more to be added on the list?
> 
> Alain Lachatre
> 
> P.S.: Wish I had all the money for everything I want to do on my car. Send
> your donations to ...



well you have left me off the list...I have a 1968 Delta Custom, 455,
bucket seats and center console, two door I'm the second owner, My
parents bought it new in Nov 67. Still have the receipt ant the car is
all origional or I have the origional parts. Only 134k. It was my first
car and I still have it!

Terry Teague 
dawgs@conninc.com
Hickory NC 28602

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 08:50:19 -0400
From: "Terry E Teague" <dawgs@conninc.com>
Subject: 68 Delta Custom`

Hello all another quiet 88 owner still looking for parts. I need an
antenna mast, just the top part that screws on to the base. It is the
one that is kinka airfoil shape, with a black round bottom, also I need
a lock for the top of my center console, the latch part has come out of
mine and I had to pull the light out and use velcro to keep the lid
shut. I also have a few parts for the 68 88's. e-mail me if I can help
anyone. BTW this is a great list, I have learned  alot thanks folks and
Greg for putting this together.


Terry Teague
68 Delta Custom
Dawgs@conninc.com
Hickory NC
704-327-9794

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 07:49:04 -0500
From: katana72@juno.com (Rob T)
Subject: Re: Tilt wheel-- Pivot pins???

I would say that the Torx head screws need a tightening down.I've rebuilt
two of these tilt wheel columns and it isn't terribly difficult, but does
require a lot of attention to detail or a building diagram from a service
manual. There are some bearings in the column and som thrust bearings.
You may want to replace the thrust bearings( looks like really thin flat
washers, usually made of copper). I feel confident that if you tighten
the torx head screws(of which there should be four of them), everything
will tighten up. I would also give some consideration to your turn signal
switch, while you're in there. If it is acting up at all, replace it.
Good luck !!! Ant questions, e-mail me directly@ Katana72@aol.com.
Rob 
Katana72          "It's NOT yourDaddy's Oldsmobile !!!!!    Hastings, MN

On Sat, 09 Aug 1997 00:13:56 -0400 Aaron D Eoff <sheep542@mindspring.com>
writes:
>  My car failed state inspection because of too much lateral and 
>horizontal movement in the steering column. So i decided to give it a go
and fix 
>it myself. So far with tools in one hand and my genuine 1977 Olds
service
>manual i've done pretty good. Right now i've reached the inner housing 
>in front of the bowl. 
>  Looking down through the housing i can already see at least three 
>screws with funny looking heads that need tightening. I dont know if 
>tightening>them will do the trick because looking at a picture in the
service 
>manual>the SPHERICAL JOINT that connects the upper shaft to the lower
shaft 
>seems>to be the culprit. Can anyone tell me if this is correct. Is this 
>joint>repaired by replacing it or some kind of tightening? My manual
says i 
>need a>tool that will remove the pivot pins (tool #j-21854-1). (HAd to
order 
>the>tool will arrive monday afternoon) Anyone with experience care to
say 
>if>this is easy or hard?                
>
>Also while the column is apart any suggestions as to what things 
>should be>replaced at this time?? Also lithium grease-- still available
or is 
>there an>equivalent?
>
>TIA 
>
>Aaron D Eoff
>   ///////  ///////
>       //       //
>      //       //
>     //       //
>    //       //  'twas a goodyear
>
>1977 Olds Cutlass Supreme
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 06:28:31 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@nfs.aisf.com>
Subject: Re: delta 88s II

ISSVAL wrote:

> 88 owners are so quiet...Why is it so? Why is it that the majority of the

Well that is first time I have ever been accused of being quite! :-)

> posts is about 442, Cutlasses and Toronado?
> Is it because there are not so many modifications to be made on 88 engines?
> Or owners not really interested in making them?
> Different worlds? Muscle cars and pappy's cars? Maybe.
> Or they're still in better condition, don't break so often and don't need
> any repairs?? (just joking)
> 
> But it doesn't matter. WE love our 88s!
> And I think Laura really has a ghost car. When I drive my car, people
> around DEFINITELY see me. Just try to back up in a parking lot and the next

People see me too when I drive my car.  They usually see my tail lights!
:-)

> car waiting for  my empty space will show so much respect by stopping SOOOO
> FAR away!!!

I had that same reaction when I use to drive my 77 C/S 4 door.  I was
big,
green, and ugly.  It gleaned a lot of respect! :-)
 
> P.S.: Wish I had all the money for everything I want to do on my car. Send
> your donations to ...

Keep dreaming! :-)

Chris Sparks
68 442 SC
68 442 HT
82 DRB

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 08:58:21 -0500
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: Value of car

> >If I were to sell the car, then I would have to point this out and it
> >will 
> >definitely affect the selling value of the car.
> 
> Why do you have to point it out?  Unless they specifically ask (and I
> realize a potential buyer might very well do so), keep quiet!  

Not to be beating a dead horse but the county I live in reguires you (law)
to tell the buyer if the auto was in a accident and cost more than $3k to
fix.

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 10:00:13 -0400
From: Rick Anderson <randerson@voyager.net>
Subject: Re: delta 88s II

ISSVAL wrote:
> 
> hi all,
> 
> Here we go. Time for the update of the 88 owners:
> 
>         -John Pajak: 65
>         -Laura D. Steinke: 66 (Pook the ghost)
>         -Walter ?: 66
>         -Tom Adams: 66
>         -Raul Martinez: 66
>         -Lisa Malden: 67
>         -Paul Fikaris: 69
>         -Graham Stewart: 69 (2)
>         -myself: 73
>         -Dan Gulino: 75
>         -John Shelp: 77
>         -Mike Jones: 78
>         -Greg Beaulieu: 78
>         -David Brown: 79 (?)
>         -S.Dave Ward: 78 & 85
>         -Igor Todorovic: 81
>         -Chris Sparks: 82
>         -Steve ?: 85
>         -Michael R. Hall: 91
> 
> Hey, if we continue the list is gonna be longer than the one of the people
> going to Lansing!!
> 88 owners are so quiet...Why is it so? Why is it that the majority of the
> posts is about 442, Cutlasses and Toronado?
> Is it because there are not so many modifications to be made on 88 engines?
> Or owners not really interested in making them?
> Different worlds? Muscle cars and pappy's cars? Maybe.
> Or they're still in better condition, don't break so often and don't need
> any repairs?? (just joking)
> 
> But it doesn't matter. WE love our 88s!
> And I think Laura really has a ghost car. When I drive my car, people
> around DEFINITELY see me. Just try to back up in a parking lot and the next
> car waiting for  my empty space will show so much respect by stopping SOOOO
> FAR away!!!
> 
> How many more to be added on the list?
> 
> Alain Lachatre
> 
> P.S.: Wish I had all the money for everything I want to do on my car. Send
> your donations to 
I don't own a Delta88 but I do have a '65 Jetstar I 88.  I guess that
might count.  I agree that there is not nearly enough 88/98 discussion
here.  

Rick Anderson
Clarkston, MI
'65 Olds Jetstar I

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 10:43:26 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: OLDS (3) 4 Sale

Olds '65 442 & Cutlass $1500 (419) 475-5024

Olds '50 Sedan, 4 dr., blue, V-8 auto, all original car w/34K mi., $6500
(419) 865-2675

Olds '49 Sedan 4 dr., 6 cyl., standard shift, all original, blue, $3500
(419) 865-2675

Disclaimer: I don't know anything about these cars, yadda-yadda....
- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoft© Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 11:23:02 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: Service Manuals

Well, you didn't mention what year the manual is but regardless, you paid 
top dollar.  I hope the $89. included shipping!

I bought a 1971 Olds chassis service manual for $55., and paid $20. for the 
same year body manual.  Both are in like new condition.  The same guy I 
bought mine from also had another "greased up" chassis manual and was 
asking $35.  These prices I think are average.   

In reference to the year; at last years spring Carlisle show, my dad bought 
a 1956 Mercury chassis manual that was in two pieces, (bad shape), and paid 
$40.  This manual is a little harder to find.  Not alot of 56 mercs around.

Also in my opinion, the reprint manuals some companies such as Year One
sell, can cost more than an original. (by the time you add shipping costs)

Hope this helped.

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.
===========================================================================

On Sun, 10 Aug 1997, "Craig Homer" <c6c6d6nb@coastalnet.com> wrote:
>Found this company that sells both original and copies of service and body
>manuals.
>I don't know what the going price is, but I paid $89.00 for an original
>service manual.
>They ship USPS first class.
>
>Faxon Auto Literature
>3901 Carter Ave
>Riverside, CA 92501
>1-800-458-2734
>fax: 909-786-4166
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 11:29:53 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Heads swap-advice/help needed

I am reading the FAQ and it says that if I put #10 260 heads on my 350,
It'll yeild a 9.91 compression ratio. I have a 73 with #8 Smog heads
right now. It seems this is the highest CR for any 350 on that
spreadsheet. What is this change due to (in laymans terms)? Just the
smaller chambers?
	But then I read somewhere (forget where, any help?) on the FAQ that a
68-9 350 can yeild 10.25-10.5:1 compression ratios. So, why does it say
in that spreadsheet that they're only running 9:1? Somebody help me
here, please! I want to know what kind of good CR I can get out of my
Olds and how to do so. If it's going to be an easy head swap, tell me
which ones. I thought swapping for #5 heads ould be good, but then I saw
thta #10 head bit. I'm so confused!!!
- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoft© Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 11:27:05 -0500
From: DKTBAT@webtv.net (doug thompson)
Subject: Re: Just addin' my name to the Lansing List!

Doug Thompson    Regent Inn     8-20-97
'67 4-4-2    

Doug..'67 4-4-2 (Bimini Blue, modified 455), '67 4-4-2 (white, original
un-restored), '67 4-4-2 Convertable, original un-restored

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 11:28:48 -0500
From: DKTBAT@webtv.net (doug thompson)
Subject: Re: My 70 442 Ready for Paint (Finally!!!)

Steve,
       I'll look for you, I'm driving a Bimini Blue '67 4-4-2, modified.
                           Doug

Doug..'67 4-4-2 (Bimini Blue, modified 455), '67 4-4-2 (white, original
un-restored), '67 4-4-2 Convertable, original un-restored

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 08:12:39 -0700
From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Subject: Alternator Conversion Confusion

Bob, Oldsmobilers,
As some of you know, I'm redoing the harness in my 98. I screwed up
something last time, since the wires fried themselves last weekend. I think
the charging system was the culprit. Luckily I have spare harnesses to work
with to make a good one, but I need some help making sure I get the
alternator connections right.

I started working on this yesterday with Bob Valentine's directions and am
a bit confused. Hopefully Bob or one of you all can set me straight so I
make make this a non-combustile conversion.

Bob's Valentine's note with my questions highlighted by >>.

Some BACKGROUND info:
(snip)

>>I'm using a 12SI limousine alternator, big radio and speakers to run as
>>well has HEI and all those 98 electric accessories. Physically it mounts
>>just fine, but the electrical connections have me somewhat confused.

EASY WAY:

    The battery cable goes to the BAT post on the new alternator.
    Terminal #1 goes to a switched 12-volt source.   A cheap-n-dirty way
    to accompish this AND to retain operation of the charge light is to
    run a wire from the #1 terminal of the new alternator to the #4 position
    of the harness connector on the old external regulator.

>>I've connected the "F" or #1 wire (blue which ran to the alternator) to
>>one of the the #4 wires (solid brown). This is as my previously converted
>>harness was. It connects the #1 alternator terminal to the charging
>>light. There are two wires running into the #4 terminal on my voltage
>>regulator connector.

>>What happens to the green/white stripe wire which also runs to the #4
>>regulator terminal? It runs to the accessory lead on the ingition switch.
>>Should I connect this to the #1 terminal on the alternator as well?

    MAKE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE REGULATOR!

>>Did this.

    Terminal #2 goes to the battery.  Easiest hookup is to jump it directly
    to the BAT terminal of the alternator.

>>My last converted harness didn't have this. As designed by Olds my #2
>>(white) wire ran to the alternator. It was eliminated in my last
>>conversion. I could connect it to the BAT lead on the alternator, along
>>with the big red output wire, but what does the other end connect to? If
>>it goes to the BAT terminal on the Alt. why not just tap into that wire
>>further down the line? Hmm. Does jumping the #2 terminal on the
>>alternator to the BAT connection do the same thing?

ON THE ALTERNATOR:
    Step 1:   Remove the wires from the plug connector on the 10/12SI unit.
              This can be done with a pin or small screwdriver to relase
              the tab that hold the connectors in the plastic shell.  If you
              want to cheat, just cut the wires off the old connector and
              replace "splice" for "insert" in steps 2 and 3 below.   ;^)

>> Did this.

    Step 2:   Remove the wire from the old alternator connector that went to
              the F terminal.  It should (usually?) be BLUE or GREEN.  Insert
              this wire in the new connector so it connects to the #2
              terminal of the new alternator.

>> Did this, I think I have this part right. It runs the charging light
>>right? Is this a switched lead? Is "F" the same as #1 terminal on the
>>regulator?

    Step 3:   Repeat step 2 for the other wire; the wire for the old R
              terminal goes to the #1 terminal on the 10/12SI unit.  This
              is usually a WHITE wire.

>> Which "other wire" here? My #2 regulator is a white wire and I don't
>>know what to do with it in the new system. If I connect one end to the #2
>>terminal on the alternator where does the other end go?

My #3 regulator wire is solid red which joins the BAT lead at a junction.
In the new system, This seems redundant to the red heavy guage BAT lead,
but I could use it, if that makes things safer.

>>My #4 has _two_ wires. One solid brown, already connected to the blue
>>wire >>that goes to the #2 terminal of the alternator. What happens to
>>the other >>green with white stripe wire?

(snip, good advice about testing)

More (really bad) Ascii Art:
                                   (WHITE wire)
           |------------------- To R terminal of old alternator harness
           |                   >> (which regulator terminal #? is this?)
           |
           |    |-------------- To F terminal of old alternator harness
           |    |              >> (which regulator terminal #? is this?)
           |    |
      - - -|- - |- - -             (BLUE or GREEN wire)
    -      *    *      -
  -        1    2        -      Back view of 10/12SI
 -   *                    -
  -   BAT --------------------- Same connection as old alternator
    -                   -
      - - - - - - - - -

>> Current harness connects the #1 to the charging light.I think this is
>>what >>the instructions called for.  On my alternator the #2 is jumped to
>>the BAT >>terminal.Is this bad? Per the drawing above

                                   (WHITE wire unused)
           |------------------- To charging light via #4 regulator brown wire
           |    |-------------- Jumped to BAT on the alternator
      - - -|- - |- - -
    -      *    *      -
  -        1    2        -      Back view of 10/12SI
 -   *                    -
  -   BAT --------------------- Heavy guage red lead into the harness
    -                   -
      - - - - - - - - -

Current plan, what should I change?

1) connect #1 alternator terminal to charging light
2) connect #2 alternator terminal to BAT alternator terminal
3) connect BAT heavy gauge alternator wire as with old harness
3) eliminate white #2 regulator wire
4) eliminate red 3# regulator wire
5) eliminate green/white stripe running to accessory position of keyswitch.

In comparing the harnesses, I've noticed that Olds used two different
wire sizes to the key switch in 66 98's. Isn't that strange? Do you think
that's related to my problem here? If so, how do pull the thicker line and
spade connector out of the plastic keyswitch connector.

Many thanks for your time and attention, if this is confusing, please shoot
me questions so I can work this out. Again thanks for any help you can
give! Don't know what I'd do without you guys.

cf

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 14:03:37 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: 68 Delta Custom`

BTW, I notice there's a fellow with a '68 Delta 2-door with a classified 
on Bryce's page looking for a rear bumper. I mention it because he's here 
in Halifax and I wouldn't mind helping him out, though I don't know him 
and have never seen the car. Anyone got a line on one of these?

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 10:05:14 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@nfs.aisf.com>
Subject: Re: 68 Delta Custom`

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
> 
> BTW, I notice there's a fellow with a '68 Delta 2-door with a classified
> on Bryce's page looking for a rear bumper. I mention it because he's here
> in Halifax and I wouldn't mind helping him out, though I don't know him
> and have never seen the car. Anyone got a line on one of these?

What a shame.  There was one at the junkyard I go to and of course it
is now history...  The junkyards here are very agressive in moving 
their stock.  Sorry...

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 14:23:54 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: back issues of "Journey with Olds", want them?

I have various issues of "Journey with Olds", (17 total), if anyone is 
interested.  Dates are 1989 - 1995.  All are EC.  I don't want them, 
but also don't want to throw them away either.

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 12:54:35 -0500
From: Adam <x2badx@wwa.com>
Subject: 85Cutlassprobsagain

Hello friends,
	Yes it is me, the one who had trans probs with the 85 cutlass... After
$500 it runs nice... Today on my way home from church I started the car
in the store parking lot, it idled for about 20 seconds... the died! 
Just like u turned the key!  I started it again and the check engine
light came on and stayed on.  It ran fine, no noticable difference.  I
was so mad!  I just got done last week tracing a Vacum hose problem to
turn that damn check engine light off.. and now this.  I thought (hoped)
it might be another simple vacum problem, but all hoses were attached
and it ran smooth.  Before we left the lot, i turned the key all the way
off, the re-started the engine, the check engine light went off and
stayed off... untill 2 mins later down the road at 45mph it died in a
split second like before.. ARRGHHH... I restarted it, the CE light came
on again, i said heck with it and drove it with the light on, it didnt
stall out any more...  Now even if I turn the key all the way off and
re-start it the light wont go off... I also dont have a SCANNER!  So i
dont know what the CE light is whineing about... I have considered
disconnecting the Computer Command altogether... I hate that thing...
Can I do that?  Somebody please help!?


Adam Andersen

85 Cutlass 307
72 Delta88 Conv. 350
76 Ninety-Eight  455

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 14:27:52 -0400 (EDT)
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: '68 Cutlass 455 Engine Color

I'm confused. Am putting a 455 into '68 cutlass and am unsure of proper
color for block. I seem to remember that the right color is red, but all the 
specialty suppliers list blue as 455 color.
 Where lies the truth?
If red, what shade? Where avail?
Coupe King@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 11:39:40 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@nfs.aisf.com>
Subject: Re: '68 Cutlass 455 Engine Color

COUPEKING@aol.com wrote:
> 
> I'm confused. Am putting a 455 into '68 cutlass and am unsure of proper
> color for block. I seem to remember that the right color is red, but all the
> specialty suppliers list blue as 455 color.
>  Where lies the truth?
> If red, what shade? Where avail?

If you mean the engine color, then 455s are blue, 425s are red, 400s
bronze,
350s gold.  This is all I know.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 15:35:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: back issues of "Journey with Olds", want them?

yes,let me know how much the shipping will b and ill send ya  a
check.....thanx
RCKTPWR@AOL.COM

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 15:44:43 -0400 (EDT)
From: WIONKING@aol.com
Subject: Re: 70' Rear Bumper

  I am definately interested in the repo bumpers that you mentioned in your
E-mail.  If you have any information on how I could acquire one, please
E-mail me back at:
                                 Wionking@aol.com,  Thank you

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 15:44:59 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: '68 Cutlass 455 Engine Color

Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) wrote:
 
> If you mean the engine color, then 455s are blue

This is not always true, as the 455 in my '68 Delta Custom was red, just
like the one in my '67 Ninety Eight.  I bought paint for the water pump
from Fusick.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 14:57:20 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: A couple Old Olds' Found

 Tom,

Except for the possibility of factory prototypes/experimentals, there never
were any convertible JetFire's built.  These JetFire cars are exclusively
1962-63 cars w/215 aluminum V8 engines equipped w/a turbocharger & methanol
injection system.  All cars were built as 2-door hardtops.

The JetFire name came up as an engine type on several models.  I believe
that all of these are 330's.  None of these are turbocharged or injected.
None is aluminum.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama




>I was doing some rummaging around in an old junk yard today and found a 65
4dr
>F-85, 225 V6, (did they really do that???) with some good sheet metal, very
>stock looking and original looking engine, and a 63 or 64 (I think)
>convertible Jetfire.  Couldn't get under the hood, but it looked like the
>engine was still there.  Top is gone, so it is out in  the elements.  The
>bodies are fair, but if you need body parts they may be a good source.
Some
>damaged panels, but some good ones too.
>
>Email me directly and I can tell you as much as I know.
>
>Thomas Martin
>85 Cutlass Supreme 307 (soon to grow up)
>
>mailto:tmartin@genevaonline.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 16:23:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: DavidB442@aol.com
Subject: Re: back issues of "Journey with Olds", want them?

Hi RC,
  Sure I would love to take them off of your hands. Let me know what you want
for them or if it's just shipping I've got a Fed Ex account. So drop me a
line.

DavidB442 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 17:34:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: PaulP34167@aol.com
Subject: Re: 85Cutlassprobsagain

In a message dated 97-08-10 14:03:21 EDT, you write:

> Before we left the lot, i turned the key all the way
>  off, the re-started the engine, the check engine light went off and
>  stayed off... untill 2 mins later down the road at 45mph it died in a
>  split second like before.. ARRGHHH... I restarted it, the CE light came
>  on again, i said heck with it and drove it with the light on, it didnt
>  stall out any more...  Now even if I turn the key all the way off and
>  re-start it the light wont go off... I also dont have a SCANNER!  So i
>  dont know what the CE light is whineing about... I have considered
>  disconnecting the Computer Command altogether... I hate that thing...
>  Can I do that?  Somebody please help!?
>  
>  
>  Adam Andersen

Adam, you need to find out what code is being set.  You can do this by using
a special key that you plug into the computer connector under the dash.  You
can get this free at Autozone and probably other parts houses.  Yes you can
eliminate the computer, but, you would have to replace the carb and
distributor with non-computer controlled versions.  Depending on where you
live, you may not pass inspection with this modification.

Paul Pate
70 Cutlass S (350-4V, 3.08 diff., TH350)
84 Camaro (305-4V, 3.08 diff., TH700R4, low options)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 17:58:37 -0400
From: Rick Anderson <randerson@voyager.net>
Subject: Re: '68 Cutlass 455 Engine Color

COUPEKING@aol.com wrote:
> 
> I'm confused. Am putting a 455 into '68 cutlass and am unsure of proper
> color for block. I seem to remember that the right color is red, but all the
> specialty suppliers list blue as 455 color.
>  Where lies the truth?
> If red, what shade? Where avail?
> Coupe King@aol.com
the early 455s were red just like the 425s   they changed to blue in
late 69 or 70.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 18:14:53 -0400
From: Al Barlow <iamoz@ime.net>
Subject: Key question

I have a 1972 Olds Cutlass Supreme Convertible that doesn't have a key for
the ignition. Does anyone know what I can do? It's hard to move around with
the steering wheel locked. Any sugestions would be appreciated.

Al Barlow
Maine
1971 442 Convertible
1972 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 19:04:25 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: Key question

You could call a locksmith to either fit a key to it or pull the steering 
wheel yourself and remove the ignition.  If you can pull it yourself, a new 
ignition switch might be cheaper then paying a locksmith to come to your 
location.

Locksmith call would probably cost around $50. - $60.

New ignition should cost around $20.

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

============================================================================ 
 

On Sun, 10 Aug 1997, Al Barlow <iamoz@ime.net> wrote:
>I have a 1972 Olds Cutlass Supreme Convertible that doesn't have a key for
>the ignition. Does anyone know what I can do? It's hard to move around with
>the steering wheel locked. Any sugestions would be appreciated.
>
>Al Barlow
>Maine
>1971 442 Convertible
>1972 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 19:08:23 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: back issues of "Journey with Olds", want them?

On Sun, 10 Aug 1997, DavidB442@aol.com wrote:
>Hi RC,
>  Sure I would love to take them off of your hands. Let me know what you want
>for them or if it's just shipping I've got a Fed Ex account. So drop me a
>line.
>
>DavidB442 
>


<Let me know what you want for them>

 
Not sure make me an offer :)

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 19:23:53 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: brake pedal problem

My 1971 4-4-2's power brakes are acting weird.  I haven't had any 
problems until yesterday.  Instead of a firm "constant" pedal, it now 
seems really "stiff" and excessive pressure needs to be given to stop 
normally.  No pulsing no grabbing, they feel like manual brakes.

Last time I drove it, 2 out of 12 breaking attempts seemed normal, but 
all the other times alot of pressure had to be applied, (such as manual 
breaks feel only a little worse).  I get the feeling it's not 
mechanical.  I obviously want this problem corrected ASAP!

QUESTION?

Am I risking TOTAL break failure if I drive it to a shop?  Again, I 
feel it's a hydraulic problem, not mechanical but I don't want the 
pedal to drop to the floor unexpectedly.

What usually causes this?

Thanks in advance!

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 18:57:07 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Web Page

Okay folks, sorry 'bout the mess at my web page for a few days, but it's
all straightened out now. It contains my future modifications. Also, I
could use some more Olds or Performance Parts links. I would be more
than thankful if you could send some.
- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoft© Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 18:36:33 -0500
From: Shang <shoover@flash.net>
Subject: Re: brake pedal problem

mrhell@m1.sprynet.com wrote:
> 
> My 1971 4-4-2's power brakes are acting weird.  I haven't had any
> problems until yesterday.  Instead of a firm "constant" pedal, it now
> seems really "stiff" and excessive pressure needs to be given to stop
> normally.  No pulsing no grabbing, they feel like manual brakes.
> 
> Last time I drove it, 2 out of 12 breaking attempts seemed normal, but
> all the other times alot of pressure had to be applied, (such as manual
> breaks feel only a little worse).  I get the feeling it's not
> mechanical.  I obviously want this problem corrected ASAP!
> 
> QUESTION?
> 
> Am I risking TOTAL break failure if I drive it to a shop?  Again, I
> feel it's a hydraulic problem, not mechanical but I don't want the
> pedal to drop to the floor unexpectedly.
> 
> What usually causes this?
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> RC Hellebuyck
> 1971 4-4-2 covt.



Most likely your power booster is/has gone out. You should be able to
change the booster yourself, its and easy job, but if you need to a shop
you can drive it safely, hjust be cautious.


Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 19:39:49 -0400
From: Al Barlow <iamoz@ime.net>
Subject: SSIII,s

I am looking for a set of SSIII's for my 71 442. Are there any out there
and how much should I expect to pay for the rims, center caps and trim rings?
Thanks

Al Barlow
Maine
1971 442 Convertible
1972 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 20:46:08 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: brake pedal problem

On Sun, 10 Aug 1997 mrhell@m1.sprynet.com wrote:
> My 1971 4-4-2's power brakes are acting weird.  I haven't had any 
> problems until yesterday.  Instead of a firm "constant" pedal, it now 
> seems really "stiff" and excessive pressure needs to be given to stop 
> normally.  No pulsing no grabbing, they feel like manual brakes.
                                      ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Wouldn't this indicate a power booster problem? Might be something as 
simple as a bad vacuum check valve that is causing the boost to 
disappear, or (of course) it could be more serious...

Does the brake warning light come on? Is there a full master cylinder? 
Are you leaking fluid anywhere? How do the brake hoses look?

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 16:41:53 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: 68 Delta Custom`

Originality Plus here in Southern Calif. always puts "lots of bumpers" in
their ads, he can call 909 area code & 555-1212 for info & ask for their
number.  Worth a try - they seem to have a big selection but slightly
higher prices.


Lisa Madsen

Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '69 Toronado, '72
Vista Cruiser 

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 13:32:57 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: 71 442 Altenator

CarrDuff@aol.com asked:
 
I am restoring a 71 442 W30 Conv..  I need the correct 37A altenator for
this
car.
Someone has given me a part # of  1100543-37amp.  Is this the correct
part #, 
and does anyone have this part to sell ?

Dave Van Sant replied:

>From what I've seen of the '71 4-4-2, the most popular generator for
this car was the 63 amp model.  One of the things you will need to do to
confirm this is check the part number on the voltage regulator (on the
firewall) and cross reference it against the assembly manual.  Then you
will know for certain, which generator you will need.  Both the 37 amp
and 63 amp models are readily available at major parts houses, either as
an AC-Delco rebuild, or store rebuild.

My comments:

Somewhere I remember seeing that they all had 63 amp generators,
although I can't locate that at the moment.  There will be NO voltage
regulator on the firewall.  All '71 4-4-2s used a generator with an
internal transistorized regulator. 

- -- 
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 20:06:06 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: A gift from my wife

david wyatt wrote:
> 
> Yesterday my wife gave me a special gift.  She had been to town and
> stopped by the local Olds dealer.  While she was there she made an
> inquiry about something I had seen and wanted.  They gave her this item
> and she gave it to me.  It is one of the large 100th aniversary banners
> with the Curved Dash, Toro, and two newer models.  They had it tied to a
> fence along the highway and were going to throw it away.  It is in good
> shape and just needs a little washing to be like new again.  It will
> look great hanging in the house when I get our den done.
> 
> Dave(who found the perfect woman)Wyatt
> 70  4-4-2

Well, I just got back from a week at scout camp with 17 kids...whew!
While I was gone I got some mail from the local Olds dealer which was
something about a free gift and registering for a free TV.  So my wife
stops by and gets the free gift (a pen...whoa) and registers for the
TV.  Before she gets out a salesman stops her and starts talking to
her.  He asks if she has an Olds and she replies that her husband does. 
He then starts asking her if she thinks I would be interested in trading
it in for a new Olds.  She tells him I'm quite happy with the one I
have, but he's persistent and keeps badgering her about trading in for a
new one.  She got pissed and told him that we have a '71 4-4-2 and that
if he can get another old 4-4-2 on the lot, I might be interested in
stoppping by.

Kurt (who found the ~other~ perfect woman) Heinrich
- -- 
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 17:34:19 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: '68 Color Codes

Someone here the other day was asking about '68 GM color codes.  I just
realized I have that information.  Here it is, there are no Cadillacs,
they used numbers instead of letters:

A - Buick - Regal Black
    Chev  - Tuxedo Black
    Olds  - Ebony Black
    Pont  - Starlight Black
B - Buick - Midnight Teal
    Olds  - Twilight Blue
C - Buick - Arctic White
    Chev  - Ermine White
    Olds  - Provincial White
    Pont  - Cameo Ivory
D - Buick - Blue Mist
    Chev  - Grotto Blue
    Olds  - Sapphire Blue
    Pont  - Alpine Blue
E - Buick - Deep Blue Met.
    Chev  - Fathom Blue
    Olds  - Nocturne Blue
    Pont  - Aegena Blue
F - Buick - Teal Blue Mist
    Chev  - Island Teal
    Olds  - Teal Frost
    Pont  - Nordic Blue
G - Buick - Ivory Gold Mist
    Chev  - Ash Gold
    Olds  - Willow Gold
    Pont  - April Gold
H - Chev  - Grecian Green
I - Pont  - Autumn Bronze
K - Buick - Aqua Mist
    Chev  - Tripoli Turquoise
    Olds  - Ocean Turquoise
    Pont  - Merdian Turquoise
L - Buick - Med. Teal Blue Mist
    Chev  - Teal Blue
    Olds  - Teal Blue
    Pont  - Aleutian Blue
M - Buick - Burnished Saddle
    Olds  - Cinnamon Bronze
N - Buick - Maroon Met.
    Chev  - Cordovan Maroon
    Olds  - Burgandy
    Pont  - Flambeau Burgandy
P - Buick - Tarpon Green Mist
    Chev  - Seafrost Green
    Olds  - Silver Green
    Pont  - Springmist Green
Q - Pont  - Verdoro Green
R - Buick - Scarlet Red
    Chev  - Matador Red
    Olds  - Scarlet
    Pont  - Solar Red
S - Buick - Olive Gold Met.
    Olds  - Jade Gold
T - Buick - Desert Beige
    Chev  - Palomino Ivory
    Olds  - Ivory
    Pont  - Primavera Beige
U - Buick - Riviera Plum
V - Buick - Charcoal Met.
    Chev  - Sequoia Green
    Olds  - Juneau Gray
    Pont  - Nightshade Green
W - Buick - Silver Beige Mist
    Olds  - Silver Beige
X - Buick - Buckskin
    Olds  - Buckskin
Y - Buick - Cameo Cream
    Chev  - Butternut Yellow
    Olds  - Saffron
    Pont  - Mayfair Maize
Z - Buick - Inca Silver Mist
    Olds  - Perivian Silver
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 20:17:15 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: '68 Cutlass 455 Engine Color

Paul Hartlieb wrote:

> the 455 in my '68 Delta Custom was red, just
> like the one in my '67 Ninety Eight.

This was supposed to read "just like the 425 in my 98"

Sorry

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 19:16:44 -0600
From: Matthew Mayer <mmayer@interaccess.com>
Subject: Re: 85Cutlassprobsagain

PaulP34167@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 97-08-10 14:03:21 EDT, you write:
> 
> > Before we left the lot, i turned the key all the way
> >  off, the re-started the engine, the check engine light went off and
> >  stayed off... untill 2 mins later down the road at 45mph it died in a
> >  split second like before.. ARRGHHH... I restarted it, the CE light came
> >  on again, i said heck with it and drove it with the light on, it didnt
> >  stall out any more...  Now even if I turn the key all the way off and
> >  re-start it the light wont go off... I also dont have a SCANNER!  So i
> >  dont know what the CE light is whineing about... I have considered
> >  disconnecting the Computer Command altogether... I hate that thing...
> >  Can I do that?  Somebody please help!?
> >
> >
> >  Adam Andersen
> 
> Adam, you need to find out what code is being set.  You can do this by using
> a special key that you plug into the computer connector under the dash.  You
> can get this free at Autozone and probably other parts houses.  Yes you can
<snip>

special key??  We don't need no stinking special key! :->
I use a pair of needlenose pliers.  Insert the two "needles" into the
upper right hand two terminals (Lovingly known as "A" and "B"..) of your
Assembly Line Communications Link connector, which is located under your
radio on the drivers side.
Looks like this:
- -------------
|F|E|D|C|B|A|
- -------------
| | | | | | |
- -------------

Do this with your ign. key on and your engine stopped.  The computer
will then flash the check engine light.  It will flash a digit, pause
and flash the second digit of the code and repeate this three times for
each code set.  The first code that should come up is 12, which is
normal.  Note any other codes you get and check them our in your service
manual.  If you don't have one, drop me a note and I will look it up in
my '86 manual.

HTH

- ---Matt

- --------------------------------------------------------
mailto:mmayer@interaccess.com    |  VM: 800-481-1323
- --------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 20:21:38 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Key question

> On Sun, 10 Aug 1997, Al Barlow <iamoz@ime.net> wrote:
> >I have a 1972 Olds Cutlass Supreme Convertible that doesn't have a key for
> >the ignition. Does anyone know what I can do? It's hard to move around with
> >the steering wheel locked. Any sugestions would be appreciated.
> >
> >Al Barlow
> >Maine
> >1971 442 Convertible
> >1972 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

Al

Since the door cylinders and the ignition switch use the same key, I
would take out a door cylinder and take to a locksmith and have a key
made from it.  Of course, if the door cylinders or ignition switch have
ever been changed, this probably won't work.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 20:24:51 -0400 (EDT)
From: SRB442@aol.com
Subject: Re: pivot pin thread size

In a message dated 97-08-10 04:29:20 EDT, you write:

<< 
 Ok. Heres the problem. I am attempting to "build" my own homemade pivot pin
 remover. one suggestion was to use a bolt and carefully pull to remove the
 pins. Whats the pivot pin inside thread size or in other words what size
 diameter  bolt will screw into the pin. I dont want to strip or damage the
pin. 
 
 TIA >>
Hi,
     I believe the thread size is 8-32 machine screw. Steve B.
1967 442
1970 442
1973 442
1985 Delta 88 Royale Brougham 2 Dr
OCA #016050

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 19:38:45 -0500
From: Adam <x2badx@wwa.com>
Subject: Re: 85Cutlassprobsagain

Matt,
	Thanks!!  I am gonna go check the light now, and I will let you know
what it says.  Thanks alot Matt and Paul for your help.  If I need to
get a new distributor and Carb to remove the CC i think I will wait on
it.  

Let you know the outcome soon,
Adam


P.S.  The oldest Olds in my family was a 69 olds, my Grandfather worked
for GM untill he died in 1988.  Up untill then we had a new olds every
two years, he would give or sell the old one to my father or uncle.  Of
all the Olds I/We have had this 85 Cutlass has been non-stop a pain in
the ass.  I love Oldsmobiles, And I like this car alot, but what else
can go wrong... jeez...  I must say if it wasnt for this E-mail list I
dont know where Id be!!!  Thanks.

Adam Andersen

85 Cutlass Supreme Brogham  307cu    114,000 miles
83 Ninety-Eight Royale      307cu    137,000              <-- All the
olds are org eng.
76 Ninety-Eight             455cu    176,000
72 Delta88 Conv.            350cu    153,000
79 Ford Van                 350cu  <-- 2nd Engine, 3rd Tranny   217,000
miles

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 20:00:20 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: brake pedal problem

RC,

 I don't believe that anything "bad" will happen if you keep going.  I have
a Dodge that has had this problem for a year now.  the booster has a hole in
the diaphram obviously & causes me to work the booster & the brakes w/no
booste.  Get a good booster & you will be back in business.  Step a little
hard until you get one.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama





>My 1971 4-4-2's power brakes are acting weird.  I haven't had any
>problems until yesterday.  Instead of a firm "constant" pedal, it now
>seems really "stiff" and excessive pressure needs to be given to stop
>normally.  No pulsing no grabbing, they feel like manual brakes.
>
>Last time I drove it, 2 out of 12 breaking attempts seemed normal, but
>all the other times alot of pressure had to be applied, (such as manual
>breaks feel only a little worse).  I get the feeling it's not
>mechanical.  I obviously want this problem corrected ASAP!
>
>QUESTION?
>
>Am I risking TOTAL break failure if I drive it to a shop?  Again, I
>feel it's a hydraulic problem, not mechanical but I don't want the
>pedal to drop to the floor unexpectedly.
>
>What usually causes this?
>
>Thanks in advance!
>
>RC Hellebuyck
>1971 4-4-2 covt.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 01:02:21 +0200
From: Roland Klinger <Roland.Klinger@bonn.netsurf.de>
Subject: Re: An International Helping Hand

Hello Greg,

>Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 00:29:42 -0300 (ADT)
>From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Subject: Suggestion: An International Helping Hand
>(too long to quote: about helping those too far away from the US for
having a quick access to needed parts or memorabilia)

Congratulations for your idea. It ain´t the standard parts which are hard
to get (in my case here in Europe). If I need a water pump for my ´56 Olds,
the only problem is money: I need the Internet or a fax, a credit card and
some money behind it and I get it within a week.

The idea you had will cover those items, no dealer is concerned with and
only specialists can help. And I think there are a lot of specialists on
this list.

I don´t need anything in the moment because my car is just finished with
restoring and complete but on the other side, remembering that there are
hundreds of Olds in Europe, especially in Germany, Switzerland and Sweden
and seeing that the internet becomes more and more popular here, your idea
is a great offer - materially a one way road I regret, but there are other
ways to pay back helping efforts. I´ll try to tell people about the Olds
list at our meeting end of August here in Germany.

Hold it: I see an example for myself: when I had my first ´56 in 1965 in El
Paso, bumper stickers were on every car. I don´t know if this is so still
today (last time I was there was 1968) but I know that my heart bleeded
when I had to throw away the old bumpers of my present car (rusty with big
holes) because they had a Minnesota Centenniel bumper sticker on them from
1958 and there was no way to peel it off without destroying it.

I don´t know a dealer for old bumper stickers from the internet or from
Hemmings. But members of the list could see some at a swap market, let´s
say from El Paso or Fort Bliss and remember me.....

By the way, do the readers find it a good or a bad idea to put bumper
stickers on a freshly restored car?

Thanks Greg, and sorry this mail is longer than it should be

Roland Klinger, Niederkassel, Germany
1956 88 Holiday Coupé

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 01:06:02 +0200
From: Roland Klinger <Roland.Klinger@bonn.netsurf.de>
Subject: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Hubcap_=B478_Supreme?=

Hello Olds friends,

I now got a picture of the hubcap the German Oldsmobile Club needs for the
tombola car: a 1978 Cutlass Supreme Brougham

the picture of the needed hubcap can be seen under

http://www.bonn.netsurf.de/~Roland.Klinger/HUBCAP.JPG

Would be fine if one of you had such a cap eating his breakfast rolls, so
he better gave it to Evi in Munich for her Tombola Car.

(I´ll support the needed money of course)


Greetings, Roland Klinger, Niederkassel, Germany

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 20:29:40 -0500
From: "James L. Smith" <floydfan@wiltel.net>
Subject: Re: OLDS (3) 4 Sale

At 10:43 AM 8/10/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Olds '65 442 & Cutlass $1500 (419) 475-5024
>
>
>Matt Cremean
>+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
>Matt 
        I called about this one. He has deposit money on both. I need that
drivetrain out of that 65 442. That's my luck. 750.00 bucks for a 65 442
with all the orignal stuff. Thanks for posting it up here. Maybe next time.

Jim Smith
65 442

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #793
********************************

