
oldsmobile-digest       Wednesday, July 16 1997       Volume 01 : Number 759



Re: Need AT Console Neutral Safety/Backup Light switch
Forged Pistons??
Re: New on list
RE: Olds Nats Trip Report + noisy rockers/lifters
Is it a real '69 442 (VIN needs to be broken down)
Re: FS: 67 442 - WA state
Re: You want HOW much to fix the A/C?
Dynamic 88 for sale
Re: 442 question
Re: Is it a real '69 442 (VIN needs to be broken down)
Cutlass back on the road
65 V-8 engine number
70 SX Neutral Start Switch
Re: Sticky speedometer
Re: CHROMEWORK...............
Re: Rocket Talk
Re: Gas war
Found a 69 (was Re: 72 Cutlass Race Car)
Re: You want HOW much to fix the A/C?
Re: infomercial_additives
Re: MY FAN!!
Re: '77-'90 full-size: Speedometer illumination
Re: More Car-buying Adventures...
Full-size car adventures
Re: Non-Olds - But What's It Worth?
Re: MY FAN!!
Gear Ratio
Re: 70 SX Neutral Start Switch
Re: '86 Tilt Steering
Never Pay for Advertising Again.
Parts Catalog (Not Really Olds related, But is resto related)
Re: FS: 67 442 - WA state
Re: How do you build a hot tank?
Re: Is it a real '69 442 (VIN needs to be broken down)
Secondary Metering Rods REPLY
Re: Smog Adventure
Re: Forged Pistons??
Exhaust smell, low power
Re: Update: Parts Voice - Can this be true?
Re: FSM Copies needed
Re: Gear Ratio
Re: Is it a real '69 442 (VIN needs to be broken down)
Re: Full-size car adventures
Found 1972 442
Re: Exhaust smell, low power
Re: Olds Nats Trip Report
Re: Smog Adventure

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 14:29:53 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Need AT Console Neutral Safety/Backup Light switch

> but I'd really like to have an original-style switch. Also, will a
> switch from another model or another year work? Fusick's lists a '71 Switch,
> but I don't know if they changed designs at all from '70 to '71.
> 

In 1971 and after, they moved the neutral safety switch into the
steering column for floor shift cars.   I believe earlier years used the
same switch.   I don't know if any other marque's of that vintage would
fit, but I'm sure it could be modified, Mr. McGuyver!

Good luck,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 12:03:19 -0700
From: enowacki@titan.com (Erik Nowacki)
Subject: Forged Pistons??

Hi All,

        A couple of weeks ago I went to the local junkyard and acquired a
455 to replace the 455 in my VC.  Beeing dehydrated and exposed to the sun,
I didn't write down the vin of the 1968 Delta that was kind enough to let me
remove its engine.

        Upon removing the oil pan and heads I noticed that the pistons have
a VERY shallow relief dish and the only markings I can read on the bottom of
the pistons is the letter F.   The engine looks very clean inside for being
30 years old, so it may have been rebuilt once or twice during its lifetime.  

        Questions:
        
        1.      Is there any way to determine the compression ratio of the
pistons?

        2.      Does the F marking on the pistons mean that they are forged,
or am I grasping for straws (I would like to be able to recycle the pistons
if possible to save $).

        I will post further questions as I get deeper into this project.  


TIA

Erik Nowacki
1972 Vista Cruiser (soon to receive a heart transplant)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 15:05:52 -0400
From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Subject: Re: New on list

> > Nah, just saying whatever came to mind.
> > 
> > JR
> 
> JR,
> 
> That sounds like a natural reflex to me.
> 
> Bill Culp
> Decatur, Alabama

Hmmmm, a 'natural reflex'; so you're saying you say things
without thinking, Bill? ;)



Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 15:37:29 -0400
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: Olds Nats Trip Report + noisy rockers/lifters

Todd,
	my lifters are noisy also. However they make noise always, cold,
hot and everything in between. My cam JM-16-18 has that off circle base
which means that my pushrods are not long enough which gives me the
noise. Although this may not help you with your problem, it may help
diagnosis process of elimination. 
	I got the CompCams adj. rockers and so far haven't been able to
install them as the parts that keep coming from CompCams are, let's say
less that desirable. But I just talked to my supplier and they just got
a new kit in and I will be picking it up this afternoon. Hopefully they
will be installed by this weeks end. Tell you all about soon. Hope this
solves my problem. 
	For those of you that already have adjustable rockers, can you
please spill your guts on anything that we should look for or do before
I begin to install them?

Fernando Proietto
Systems Analyst - Informatics

Environment Canada
Ontario Region - Monitoring & Systems Branch
4905 Dufferin St. 
Downsview, Ontario
M3H 5T4

> ----------
> From: 	Todd Morris[SMTP:toddmorr@us.ibm.com]
> Sent: 	Wednesday, July 16, 1997 10:01 AM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Olds Nats Trip Report
> 
> The Olds Nats were indeed a lot of fun.  Didn't race as several of you
> did but
> I do remember seeing your cars there--the 80 442 and green 70 Cutlass
> were
> particularly striking.  Took two of my kids so that kind of crimped
> things a
> bit.  My 4 yr old boy has a serious car gene--you know how you could
> get to
> within 20 feet of the burnout box, well, Sunday he found his way down
> there and
> just stood, for around 20 minutes, just a few feet from these monster
> pro
> eliminator cars as they did their burnouts.  He was totally transfixed
> by these
> cars.  Didn't even bother to plug his ears.
> 
> Anyway, the drive up from the DC area was a real pleasure in the Olds.
> It was
> extremely hot and we got some pinging on long hot grades so I bought
> some
> octane booster.  Wasn't very effective though, so I resorted to
> carefully
> working the throttle and RPMs to avoid the problem.  Last thing I
> wanted was a
> melted piston on the PA turnpike with 2 kids in the back seat.
> 
> The return trip had a bit more "drama" to it.  The ticking in my
> valvetrain
> returned, in spite of 2 oil change and flushes with Gunk over the last
> month.
> It seems to surface after at least an hour of high speed driving (I do
> 3000RPM
> at 70mph) and the engine is good and hot, water temp about 190 to 200
> deg.
> Further, it only ticks when the engine is under load, going downhill
> and the
> ticking goes away.  So, this time I put in a quart of Marvel Mystery
> Oil.  That
> had no effect either.  I guess I'm resigned to fixing a hardware
> problem in the
> valvetrain, in all likelihood buying the CompCams kit Summit sells to
> make it
> an adjustable valvetrain.  The big question is whether I have a bad
> lifter.  If
> so, simply installing the CompCams kit won't fix that problem.  I'd
> like to
> avoid removing the intake to get at the lifters.  If anybody has some
> diagnostic hints for lifters that would be helpful.
> 
> The other interesting thing on the long hot drive back--I used the A/C
> pretty
> much the whole way, water temp never broke 210 deg, but my oil
> pressure
> continued to fall over the 6 hr drive, finally reaching 25 to 26 psi.
> It never
> got that low before, always staying above 35 psi.  The only difference
> here is
> the addition of the Marvel Oil, and I was driving it pretty hard in
> very hot
> weather.
> 
> Anyway, the roads were fine, construction for many miles of the Ohio
> turnpike
> but we still were able to cruise at 50 MPH or so.  Hopefully these
> roads won't
> be any worse when we take the same route to Lansing next month.
> 
> Todd Morris
> 71 442
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Jun 1997 15:39:15 -0400
From: "Bradford W. Nicholson" <brad442@erols.com>
Subject: Is it a real '69 442 (VIN needs to be broken down)

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- --------------5F123FB22834
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All,
If you can help this guy descipher his VIN, he would greatly appreciate
it.  I got this through my web site and do not have the knowledge to
help him, so I'm forwarding it to the BEST OLDSMOBILE KNOWLEDGE BASE IN
THE WORLD... our little newsgroup.
Please reply directly to him at imelvis@infi.net so he gets a response,
I don't believe he is a member of the newsgroup.
==========================
Brad,   
I am a fellow Cutlass owner.  I purchased what I thought was a 1969 Olds
442 convertible.  But in reviewing the vin I am pretty sure that it is a
wanna be 442.  If you could I will list the vin # and if you can help me
identify what I have I would really appreciate
it.                                      
vin#336679E178500 1969 Convertible Cutlass.  I wont be disappointed if
it isnt a true 442 but I tried to find out what I have and havent been
able to.  Any help you can offer or if you know of someone that can help
me I would appreciate it.  By the way,  I have had more fun this summer
tooling around the beach in my mean machine.  
        Thanks          
        Matthew J. Hargrove                                             
        imelvis@infi.net
================================================

 ---
| | | Brad Nicholson
| | | 1987 442 W-42
|/|\| 1994 Eight Eight LSS
| | | Oldsmobile Club of America #18984
 ---  Oldsmobile Centennial Club - MD
e-Mail: brad442@erols.com
Personal Web Site - http://www.erols.com/brad442
Official OCA Web Site - http://www.erols.com/brad442/oca

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Brad,	
I am a fellow Cutlass owner.  I purchased what I thought was a 1969 Olds
442 convertible.  But in reviewing the vin I am pretty sure that it is a
wanna be 442.  If you could I will list the vin # and if you can help me
identify what I have I would really appreciate it.					
vin#336679E178500 1969 Convertible Cutlass.  I wont be disappointed if
it isnt a true 442 but I tried to find out what I have and havent been
able to.  Any help you can offer or if you know of someone that can help
me I would appreciate it.  By the way,  I have had more fun this summer
tooling around the beach in my mean machine.  


	Thanks		
	
	Matthew J. Hargrove						
	imelvis@infi.net


- --------------5F123FB22834--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 12:55:45 -0700
From: enowacki@titan.com (Erik Nowacki)
Subject: Re: FS: 67 442 - WA state

>What should I tell him it's worth?
>
Tell him it is worth $500 and that you already have a buyer for him at that
price :-)

Erik Nowacki
1972 Vista Cruiser

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 16:32:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: Brian Cizas <bscizas@orion.branch-co.lib.mi.us>
Subject: Re: You want HOW much to fix the A/C?

At 11:53 AM 7/16/97 -0400, you wrote:
>
>I'd like to see an itemized estimate of that job; does it have a line for
>"GTCDHW- $400"? (Gouging The Customer During Hot Weather)
>
>Thank them for the work they've done, and definitely get a second opinion
>(including an itemized estimate).
>_______________________________________________________
>Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
>Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
>

I'd definetely get a second opinion if I was you.  Last summer the AC on my
mom's '93 Grand Am stopped blowing out cold air so we took it to the dealer.
They also gave us an estimate of $700 because they said that some major
parts needed replacement, can't exactly remember what it was now.  We
decided that we would take it to a little family owned garage in our town
and they ended up fixing it for $100 including recharging the freon.  The
whole problem was some switch that allowed the compressor to turn on needed
to be replaced.  During these hot summer months there are always going to be
places that are going to try to stiff you so be sure to always get second
opinions.

Brian Cizas
bscizas@orion.branch-co.lib.mi.us

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 15:45:26 -0500
From: david wyatt <Wyatt_David_L@LILLY.COM>
Subject: Dynamic 88 for sale

I saw a '64 (?) Dynamic 88 2 dr ht setting on a used car lot the other
day.  It is white with a small amount of pinstriping and some non Olds 
flipper hubcaps.  It looks real sharp from the road.  If anyone is
interested in it, I will check it out the next time I go to Terre Haute.
(Chris Smetana if your reading this you could have a look for us.  The
lot is on North third just north of the overpass on the east side of the
street.)  I have denied myself the pleasure of stopping because I know I
will want it and can't afford it.  I would be happy to help find it a
home with a loving Olds family.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 16:54:48 -0600
From: talcarol@erie.net (Chris Kugler)
Subject: Re: 442 question

>Maybe I am dumb....
>Does the 442 stand for the engine size or what>> Just curious...Stripping
>down a 1987 Cutlass Supreme for a stock car, and am mom is trying to sell
>1972 Cutlass Supreme, and maybe some time in future would like to buy a 442.
>
>Justin


I really hate it when your stopped at a light and someone outof another
car, whe is acting like he knows everything, yells to you: "Hey theres no
442 in that car!"  I got so sick of explaining that its the name of the car
that one time I just yelled out "No shit Sherlock"(?sp?)
In my year it was once again a Cutlass option.

Chris Kugler
'77 Cutlass S 442

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 17:10:47 -0500
From: daveleck@atlcom.net (David Leck)
Subject: Re: Is it a real '69 442 (VIN needs to be broken down)

>If you can help this guy descipher his VIN, he would greatly appreciate it.
>vin#336679E178500

3 = Oldsmobile
36 = Cutlass V8
67 = 2dr convertible
9 = 1969
E = (this is probably a 'B', indicating Baltimore)
178500 = sequence number

It's a fake.


Dave


daveleck@atlcom.net
www.atlcom.net/~daveleck/olds

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 17:28:21 -0400
From: dedarnell@electro-matic.com
Subject: Cutlass back on the road

The Cutlass is finally back on the road again, after a long winter of
rebuilding the engine, and way too long of a spring full of problems(frame
mounts, radiator, shifter cable,bracke,and lever, belts, carb, waterpump,
fittings, rocker bolts took 2 months to arrive, valve covers, brakes...
Did I miss anything.  I had problems with just about everything, and I want
to thank everyone for their help getting me through these problems (
especially Mark Prince, who at one time offered to come to my house and
help - he lives about 45 minutes away).  I still have more work to do, but
it's driveable, and it looks pretty good.  It's a red convertible, and I'm
still getting compliments fellow workers, and it's quittin' time.

BTW, I am going to need a different rearend.  What's my options??  Someone
told me to get a 12 bolt posi off a ch#vy.  What's up with that?  I've
never done any rearend work before, so any info on this subject would be
greatly appreciated.

Thanks again,
Dave
'71 cutlass convertible - 455

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 17:33:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: BobH592058@aol.com
Subject: 65 V-8 engine number

> I have to re-register my 1965 delta 88 to the car registration office.
> They need to know the engine number, but we have been trying to find it
> without success ???>>

Look on the front of the passenger side cylinder head.  There is a flat spot
there on which the sequential engine number is stamped.

If the heads have been removed and swapped it could be on the back of the
driver's side head.

It is also possible that a replacement head was used which may have no
number.  Numbers were put on cylinder heads at least through 67.

Bob Handren        OCA/OCF# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 17:33:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: BobH592058@aol.com
Subject: 70 SX Neutral Start Switch

Bob Barry Wrote:

<<Again, one of the little but necessary things to get my '70 SX back on the
road will be a Neutral safety switch for its console-mounted automatic
shifter. >>

Bob, the neutral start switch on my 70 SX is in the same place as the column
shifted car - it's on the steering column. The trans has a rod which runs to
the column which rotates the same as the column shift mounted variety.  Mine
had headers on it when I bought it and this control rod was, of necessity,
removed.  The cloumn mounted switch was just left in a position to allow
starting (in any gear of course).  I found a parts car to donate the missing
pieces.

Bob Handren        OCA/OCF# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 14:39:50 -0700
From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Subject: Re: Sticky speedometer

Laura,
Your problem is probably an old or kinked speedo cable. It runs between
the front left wheel and the speedo itself unless you have cruise. Go
to your local parts store, and get a new delco cable. Cut it to fit,
grease it and slip it in place of the one that's in there.

If your cable housing is kinked, that's another problem, but I may
be able to help you there too. Drop me a line if you need more detail.
I realize I wasn't too specific here.

cf


>And yet another question <grin>  First of all...I finally got my car back
>sunday...<happy smile>  I'm just now breaking in the engine which
>seems to be taking forever, but I don't want to mess it up :)  Anyway I
>noticed the speedometer is kinda jerking/twitching to the speed instead
>of moving somewhat slowly...I thought it was just from the way they
>were made, that they twitched a little, but I found out this morning that it
>was indeed 'sticky'.  It got stuck on 30 for a few minutes even thru
>differant speeds.  It did finally become unstuck, which is good :)
>
>My question is can I easily fix it, something like the directions to fix the
>clock (in the FAQ)?  If so, how do I get to the speedometer without
>some serious wreakage (contortions I can manage, I'm a small git
><grin>).....BTW, did I miss Digest #756, or was there one?
>
>Thanks again,
>Laura
>
>1966 Delta 88 (with a shiney rebuilt 455)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 17:37:20 -0400
From: "Jon" <latvis@globalserve.net>
Subject: Re: CHROMEWORK...............

- ----------
> From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: CHROMEWORK...............
> Date: piektdiena, 1997. gada 11. jūlijs 0:34
> 
> I've said it before - i am computer illiterate - this emblem post with
the
> evil 'bow tie' contents was supposed to go to the chrome guy (oh,
duuuuuhhhh).
> 
> Apologies for my content & delivery!
> 

It's too late, the cat's out of the bag.  Now we all know that you're
really a closet Ch*vy lover!
(Just kidding)

> 
> Lisa Madsen
> 
> Heavy Metal Forever - '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom , '72 Vista
Cruiser
> , '69 Toronado 
> 
> Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com
> 
> My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/
________________________________________________________
Jon Gulbis
'85 Cutlass Supreme
'72 Norton chopper

Drop me a line at: latvis@globalserve.net
See my resume at: 
http://www.globalserve.net/~latvis/computing/resume.html

(Olds page soon to be constructed)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 17:44:12 -0400
From: "Jon" <latvis@globalserve.net>
Subject: Re: Rocket Talk

Why don't you just download IRC off the net?  It's a small program (1.1 MB)
and it will solve all of your problems.

- ----------
> From: Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) <sparks@aisf.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Rocket Talk
> Date: piektdiena, 1997. gada 11. jūlijs 11:36
> 
> Greg Beaulieu wrote:
> 
> > on IRC but with a different crowd. Probably more accessible since all
you
> > need is a browser like Netscape and not a special IRC client.
> 
> I have Netscape and I cannot access this chat room.  I keep core
> dumping.
> 
> Chris Sparks
________________________________________________________
Jon Gulbis
'85 Cutlass Supreme
'72 Norton chopper

Drop me a line at: latvis@globalserve.net
See my resume at: 
http://www.globalserve.net/~latvis/computing/resume.html

(Olds page soon to be constructed)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 17:49:22 -0400
From: "Jon" <latvis@globalserve.net>
Subject: Re: Gas war

- ----------
> From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Gas war
> Date: piektdiena, 1997. gada 11. jūlijs 12:07
> 
> Dave Paulison wrote:
> > 
> > >When is the last time anyone had a gas
> > >war going that was worth it?
> > 
> > We got one going on here right now...three gas stations on the same
> > block.  93 octane started at $1.43 or $1.44/gal, now its down to
> > $1.16/gal.  I can live with that...
> > 
> > Dave Paulison                    1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
> > Palm Bay, Florida                1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
> > dpauliso@juno.com
> 
> 
> Must be nice...here in Canada, 93 octane is going for 64.9 cents a
> litre, which is about $2.45 a gallon!  If it goes much higher, I'll have
> to start burning regular (87).
> 
> S. Dave Ward   (Peterborough, Ontario)
> 
> '78 Delta 88 (350)
> '85 Delta 88 (307)

Just a small bit of trivia:

Before the advent of the automobile, when oil was refined, gasoline was
just a byproduct that was discarded.
________________________________________________________
Jon Gulbis
'85 Cutlass Supreme
'72 Norton chopper

Drop me a line at: latvis@globalserve.net
See my resume at: 
http://www.globalserve.net/~latvis/computing/resume.html

(Olds page soon to be constructed)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 18:12:56 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Found a 69 (was Re: 72 Cutlass Race Car)

Thomas Martin wrote:
> 
> I live in southeast WI, and work in NE Ill, I pass a race car 72 (could
> be 70-71, gut says 72) that has been on a trailer for sale for some time
> at a local very small town car lot.  If anyone is genuinely interested I
> can check it out and give them specifics on what drivetrain and such.

Found a 69 Cutlass all ready for the strip for sale in a small car lot.
It had a 455 with a whole buncha mods. It was blue/black vinyl top. The
interior was all gutted for serious straight trackin. $6500.

- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
Ev_Corp Main Admin.
delta_v plug G/S/O Admin.
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoft© Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 11:35:29 -0400
From: "Terry Teague" <dawgs@conninc.com>
Subject: Re: You want HOW much to fix the A/C?

sounds like they are off their rocker to put it nice.  Terry

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 18:05:04 -0400
From: "Jon" <latvis@globalserve.net>
Subject: Re: infomercial_additives

It's best to just stick with 100% synthetic oil.  It might be more
expensive initially, but considering that you only have to change it about
every 20,000 Km it ends up acutually being cheaper than conventional oil,
and protects your engine much better than conventional oil.  The first
winter of driving my Cutlass, I ran conventional and the car started really
rough; after going with synthetic, the next winter, the car started almost
as well as in the summer.

The reasons for this are:

Synthetic oil does not turn as thick in cold weather or as thin in hot
conditions, giving better oil circulation when cold starting and better
protection when running hot.

Some synthetic oils claim to have magnetic properties; the oil sticks to
your engine's internal components and when you start your car, the engine
is already oiled.

Synthetic oil does not suffer from viscosity breakdown as badly as
conventional oil.  You do have to change the filter at least every 10,000
Km though.

- ----------
> From: Dal Allan <250-1752@mcimail.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: infomercial_additives
> Date: piektdiena, 1997. gada 11. jūlijs 21:18
> 
> A while back there was a discussion on the additives that extend the life
of 
> your car and are promoted in late night infomercials.
> 
> The Aug/Sept issue of Musclecar Review quotes newspaper columnist Bob 
> Sikorsky as saying that chlorine is an extremely corrosive agent in a
motor. 
> Oil companies used to have a fraction of 1% of chlorine in motor oil
because 
> it is a very effective extreme pressure additive, but they discontinued 
> doing so because the chlorine did more harm than good. 
> 
> Look at the proportion of chlorine in these additives: 
> 
>      DuraLube   6.8 %
>      Prolong   just under 30% 
> 
> You have to dilute the percentages to get a valid ratio when it is mixed 
> with 5 quarts of oil, but if anything greater than zero is bad, looks
like 
> it might be a bad idea to pour either of these into your Olds. 
> 
> Dal

I hope this helps shed some light on the situation.
________________________________________________________
Jon Gulbis
'85 Cutlass Supreme
'72 Norton chopper

Drop me a line at: latvis@globalserve.net
See my resume at: 
http://www.globalserve.net/~latvis/computing/resume.html

(Olds page soon to be constructed)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 18:31:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tornado697@aol.com
Subject: Re: MY FAN!!

the water pump is ne2w and the bolts are tight, its the clearence inbetween
the fan and the shroud, i dont know weather to cut the fan, bend it, of cut
or grind the shround..ouch!  please help me if anyone knows of this, or a way
to fix it

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 18:34:26 -0400
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: '77-'90 full-size: Speedometer illumination

Kevin Wong wrote:
> 
> David Brown wrote:
> 
> > I kind of know the '77 to '79 Deltas inside and out.
> 
> For years, during night hours, my friend's '77 Custom Cruiser's
> speedometer had been shrouded in intermittent darkness.  The sole
> functioning light served to illuminate one of the more important
> devices, the gasoline gauge, as well as indicate when you were burying
> the speedometer needle.  It appears that the 2 bulb sockets directly
> behind the speedometer had melted somewhat, producing an intermittent
> condition.  An ill-fated repair attempt by a mechanic about 10 years go,
> utilising some black windshield putty, had done more harm than good.  Last
> week, I (foolishly) offered to fix the problem.  I'm still recovering from
> multiple lacerations on my right forearm. <g>  David, is there anyway to
> change these sockets without exposing flesh to numerous sharp edges and
> disassembling the _entire_ dashboard, just short of dropping the steering
> column?  I obtained sockets from a newer Delta 88 ('84?) which seem to be
> of a more durable plastic.  They wouldn't twist securely into the '77
> instrument panel, so I used some epoxy to make sure they won't shake loose.
> 
> Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario, Canada


Hi Kevin,

I've got a '78 Delta 88, and the instrument lights burned out a couple
of years ago, but it didn't happen suddenly--they flickered out every
now and again, until it became more frequent.

From what you said, replacing them would be a real pain, so I just plan
to leave them as they are...I'll just keep a flashlight stashed under my
seat (along with the cop detector...)

S. Dave Ward   (Peterborough, Ontario, CANADA)

'78 Delta 88 (350 4bbl.)
'85 Delta 88 (307 4bbl.)
'91 Chev Sierra 4x4 (305 TBI)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 18:27:19 -0400
From: "Jon" <latvis@globalserve.net>
Subject: Re: More Car-buying Adventures...

- ----------
> From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
> To: Oldsmobile <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: More Car-buying Adventures...
> Date: svētdiena, 1997. gada 13. jūlijs 7:20
> 
> 
> Aside from the Buick, I looked at few candidates for my daily driver
> yesterday. Drove an '88 Cutlass, drove fine, nice and peppy, great
brakes,
> but lousy structure and found bondo in the door bottoms despite being
> assured it was rust-free... plus the Ford Escort(!) radiator in it made
me
> shake my head (why do people do things like that??). 
> 
> '84 Delta 4-door, drove fine, needed paint and rear bumper starting to 
> go... would be interested if only it had any options, but aside from 
> AM/FM and cruise it was a stripper. Really would like air. Little over 
> 60K miles, old fellow wants about $1500. Dunno. 
> 
> Interesting car: '78 Delta, 66K miles. Rocket 350/TH350 combo, drove
> better than any of the '80's full-sizers (why did Olds stop making that
> engine?!?), rust free. One repaint, not bad, one ding in a rear quarter,
> rust/bondo free, evidence of annual rustproofing for years. Crummy
> aftermarket faux-wire wheel covers, needs front tires. Worst problem is
> drivers interior B-pillar trim is broken, needs new shoulder harness
there
> too, and needs a pair of armrest bases.  Assume any GM full-sizer could
> supply those, don't know how big a hassle it is to change them out. This
> one is even more of a stripper than the '84, no air, no power anything,
> and even just an AM radio! Does have cruise, switch was on dash in '78!
> All red, vinyl top over dark red paint, red cloth interior with split
> bench. Color scheme didn't thrill me. Guy is asking $2500, says he would
> take $2300, seemed honest. My gut tells me that's about $500 too much.
> OTOH, this is the first of all the ones I've driven that made me smile...
> I really like that powertrain. Still considering that one. 
> 
> Finally -- driving home I spot a Delta paked in a field with a for sale
> sign on it... go look. Somewhere between an '80 and '83. Nasty original
> paint but no holes, solid frame too. Car is loaded, power everything,
air,
> nice silver gray velour interior. Look at sign... $600! Geez, wonder if
it
> has a motor.  Car is unlocked(!). Shows about 80K miles. Open the door,
> overpowering smell of motor oil, looks like back floor got soaked with
it,
> gray carpet is now dirty brown. How, I don't know. If it runs, it's
> probably the first one I've seen that's worth the asking price. Took down
> a phone #, no answer, but will talk to the owner eventually just for
> curiosity if nothing else.. ;-)
> 
> Anyhow, sure is interesting exploring the bottom of the car-selling
> market.  BTW, every single one of the full-sizers I've driven has the
same
> problem: turn signal switch won't cancel on a left turn. Design problem I
> assume, find it curious though. 

That's not a design problem, it's caused by drivers who hold down the turn
signal lever while positioning to make left turns at busy intersections. 
Not being patient enough to let the signal cancel by forcing it to stay on
when you're turning the wheel to the right can easily break the mechanism.

> 
> Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada
> 
> 
________________________________________________________
Jon Gulbis
'85 Cutlass Supreme
'72 Norton chopper

Drop me a line at: latvis@globalserve.net
See my resume at: 
http://www.globalserve.net/~latvis/computing/resume.html

(Olds page soon to be constructed)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 19:05:08 -0400
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Full-size car adventures

Hi Greg,

About that '78 Delta that you were looking at...you said it was a deep
burgandy with bright red interior (which you said was dog-ugly)?  What a
coincidence...that's the exact colour scheme of my '78 Delta.  Since
I'll be repainting it within the next six months, what colour do you
suggest I go with?

A few people say I should go a clear-coat black, but I say forget
it--black is for C*dillacs and L*ncolns.  I'd like to go with a nice
pearl-coat white, and trim it with a chrome/red piping to match the
blazing red interior. An "associate" (not friend) of mine said I should
just scrap the Olds and buy a M*stang.  I told him to bore it, stroke
it, and ram it up his fat *ss.

The Delta you had for a drive had the Rocket (350?) in it?  If so, does
that mean that MY Olds has the Rocket?  (same year, same model).  I
can't believe that your test-driver had zero options on it...mine is
power everything, but is missing tilt/cruise.  

I imagine that my Delta has the TH350 tranny, just like that one, but
what would the rear-end gears be?  I've been meaning to post that
question for some time now.

Now you're from Canada, so I know we're both talking the same currency
exchange.  The guy wants $2500 for it?  Is that to support his
crack-cocaine addiction?  Once I'm done with the brake lines, new
rubber, and painting my Olds, will it be worth even close to that much?
The odometer is reading 183K (km), but the interior looks like it has
only 83K on it, but I had no clue they were worth that much.
Take Care,

S. Dave Ward	(Peterborough, Ontario, CANADA)

'78 Delta 88 (350 4bbl.)
'85 Delta 88 (307 4bbl.)
'91 Chev Sierra 4x4 (305 TBI)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 18:54:36 -0400
From: "Jon" <latvis@globalserve.net>
Subject: Re: Non-Olds - But What's It Worth?

- ----------
> From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Non-Olds - But What's It Worth?
> Date: pirmdiena, 1997. gada 14. jūlijs 12:26
> 
> In a message dated 97-07-14 01:23:58 EDT, you write:
> 
> << I think the guy missed his opportunity when he turned down $3500.
There
> may
>  be someone out there who would pay his price, but it's going to take a
>  *long* time to hook up with that buyer...
>  
>  Maybe keep his name, and in 3 months offer him $2500. If he declines to
>  sell, call back 3 months after that, and offer him $2000. If he still
>  refuses to sell, wait _six_ months, and then call back and offer him
$1300.
>  If it's still no go, wait a *year*, and if he's still got it, offer him
$800
>  for that heap.
>  _______________________________________________________
>  Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
>  Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
>   >>
> 
> THATS A REALLY OVER OPINIONATED STATEMENT...JUST BECAUSE ITS NOT A CAR
THAT
> YOUR INTERESTED....PS....IM TRYING TO KEEP MY POSTS TO A MINIMUM SO AS
NOT TO
> UPSET THOSE THAT DONT LIKE CAPS....YEAH RIGHT

Just out of curiosity: Are you unable to type in lower case ie: using a
keyboard that is unable to type in lowercase?  If not, what then is your
problem?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 19:16:16 -0400
From: "Terry Teague" <dawgs@conninc.com>
Subject: Re: MY FAN!!

one thing you might check is to see if the rubber mounts on the bottom
of the radiator are in good shape, if not they could let the shroud and
radiator slip down.  Terry Teague 68 Delta Custom 455

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 19:47:45 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Gear Ratio

I was wondering if there is anyone who would know what the formula is for
calculating gear ratio using tire height .. I remember reading that the
factory used 26" tires to calculate the factory settings for the gear ratio
what I'm looking for is the formula that will give me the different ratios
as I change my Tire Heights 
When I race my slicks are 28" tall I am trying to find out the rear end
gear ratio if I had 3.91 what the actual ratio with the taller tire would
be 

Any help would be welcome

Bob

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 19:31:55 -0500
From: katana72@juno.com (Rob T)
Subject: Re: 70 SX Neutral Start Switch

I have these parts available to anybody that wants or needs them.
Rob Turner

Katana72          "It's NOT yourDaddy's Oldsmobile !!!!!    Hastings, MN
On Wed, 16 Jul 1997 17:33:40 -0400 (EDT) BobH592058@aol.com writes:
>Bob Barry Wrote:
>
><<Again, one of the little but necessary things to get my '70 SX back 
>on the
>road will be a Neutral safety switch for its console-mounted automatic
>shifter. >>
>
>Bob, the neutral start switch on my 70 SX is in the same place as the 
>column
>shifted car - it's on the steering column. The trans has a rod which 
>runs to
>the column which rotates the same as the column shift mounted variety. 
> Mine
>had headers on it when I bought it and this control rod was, of 
>necessity,
>removed.  The cloumn mounted switch was just left in a position to 
>allow
>starting (in any gear of course).  I found a parts car to donate the 
>missing
>pieces.
>
>Bob Handren        OCA/OCF# 7728
>'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
>Oviedo, FL
>
>Handren Associates, Inc.
>FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
>Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
>(407)365-6385
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 19:28:54 -0500
From: katana72@juno.com (Rob T)
Subject: Re: '86 Tilt Steering

It could develop into a potentially dangerous situation. I have repaired
several tilt colums and totally rebuilt one of them. What a challenge.
Probably what has happened is that there are four torx head screws that
hold the column tightly. The only way to access them is to remove the
steering wheel, remove the turn signal switch, and then you can squeeze a
screwdriver in there and tighten things up. It's not very difficult , IF
you HAVE the RIGHT tools. Rent them, if possible, but get them before you
attemp this. You will need a steering wheel puller and a locking plate
removal tool. I was into columns so much, i spent the $20.00 for the
locking plate tool and the $10.00 for the steering wheel puller. I hope
it doesn't have airbags, because those should be done by a dealer. If you
have any questions, drop me line, maybe I can help.

Rob T

Katana72          "It's NOT yourDaddy's Oldsmobile !!!!!    Hastings, MN
On Wed, 16 Jul 1997 12:13:05 -0600 Matthew Mayer <mmayer@interaccess.com>
writes:
>i have an '86 442 w/ tilt steering wheel whcich seems to have come 
>loose
>(yes, it's a little disconcerting...)  The wheel will move side to 
>side
>about 1/2" or so.  I fond details on the GN T-type page on how to fix
>this, but it is fairly involved and I won't have time to get to it for 
>a
>week or two...my question is, does anyone think this is a potentially
>dangerous situation??  Could something else come loose and I would be
>holding a wheel connected to nothing (a la Wiley Coyote...)??  Or the
>opposite is there something that could jam and I wouldn't be able to
>turn the wheel at all??  
>
>Thanks for the input...
>-- 
>---Matt
>
>--------------------------------------------------------
>mailto:mmayer@interaccess.com    |  VM: 800-481-1323
>--------------------------------------------------------
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 23:41:08 -0400 (EDT)
From: extractor@t-1net.com
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automatically remove you from the list.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 19:45:20 -0500
From: katana72@juno.com (Rob T)
Subject: Parts Catalog (Not Really Olds related, But is resto related)

Wonderous things happened today. I received a catalog in the mail from
Sears. It has a LOT of stuff us resto people are looking for. There are
many Eastwood products, a lot of body repair items, and some very nifty
tools. I called the company and asked about this. It is called "The Auto
Shop" and is a Sears shop at home service. The Toll free # for ordering
this neat little resource is 1-800-557-3277. I would recommend that
everybody on the list that does their own work get this baby!! Many
questions I've seen on the list are answered right in the catalog. They
also accept all major credit cards, but only US residents are able to use
their Sears card. Happy browsing !!!

Rob Turner
Katana72          "It's NOT yourDaddy's Oldsmobile !!!!!    Hastings, MN

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 03:45:55 +0000
From: "LCPL JACKS AIMD/IMO3  X7402" <j3910@boxer.navy.mil>
Subject: Re: FS: 67 442 - WA state

> My wife's step-brother is getting ready to sell
> his 67 442.
Does the car run well? would it make it over to spokane? I an 
stationed in Arizona, but will be going home on leave in a couple of 
months. I own a '62 Olds F-85 and a '68 Olds 442. I would be 
interested in purchasing your 64 442 possibly... Please e-mail me 
with more information. I may even have my dad go and get it (before I 
get back to the states,) if the buy is worth it. 

Ben
'62 olds F-85
'68 Olds 442
(Persian Gulf)
 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 19:11:29 -0600 (MDT)
From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Subject: Re: How do you build a hot tank?

> How do you build a hot tank???
> 
> 	  RS
> 	'70 442 4-speed W-25


	I know this post is really old, but...if anybody is still
interested, here it is...
	
	Building a hot tank is actually really easy, and one of the best
tools I know for removing caked-on grease, dirt, paint, (and skin if your
not careful) from iron and steel parts (actully plastic and rubber too).
I've had my little 5 gallon tank for about three years now, and it still
works great.  Building a hot tank is really easy too.  All you really need
is a metal container, lye, water and a heat source.  The heat is actually
optional too.  A cold tank works too, but it's a lot slower, and dosn't
really remove caked stuff as well.  All you need to do to build one is
take the metal container (any size will work, from a coffee can to 55
gal. drum to livestock watering tank-- it all just depends on how
big the parts you plan on cleaning are), and fill the tank about 3/4
full of water, add some NaOH (lye) and warm it up.  I've found that Red
Devil lye works best, since it's supposed to be pure sodium hydroxide.
I think Drano has some sort of inert ingrediant in it, so it's probably
not as good.  Anyway the ratio of NAOH to water is something like 16 ozs
to 5 gallons of water (I can find a more exact ratio for anybody that
wants it).  I'm just putting the finishing touches on a *new* 55 gallon
hot tank.  It's about two thirds full, has six cans of Red Devil in it,
and so far it works great.  
	I got the drum from this weird place that sells a little bit of
everything (old army surplus, plumbing supplies, wood stoves, fence,
posts, tools, guns, etc.  They even have a WWII armored half-track in the
yard!)  Anyway, the drum was $10 (it has a removable lid, with a retaining
ring), and the lye was $12.  So, for the cost of having a machine shop
tank a single engine block, I can clean dozens of parts any time I like
(at least until winter!)  As for a heat source, I'm looking at a couple
possibilites--there are heating elements that float that are designed to
keep livestock watering tanks from freezing in the winter, but I do'nt
know if they would get hot enough.  And, if they're aluminum they won't
work since the lye will dissolve them.  Something to think about anyway.  

	At any rate, if anybody has any questions about these things, just
let me know.  I've been useing them for quite a while, and love the
results!
			
				Scott
			1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 21:16:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: Is it a real '69 442 (VIN needs to be broken down)

In a message dated 97-07-16 18:47:21 EDT, you write:

<< vin#336679E178500 1969 Convertible Cutlass >>
Your right, it isnt a 442,  442's start the vin with 344, so you have a
cutlass

3 is for OLDS
36 is for cutlass v-8
67 is for convertible
9 is for year 1969
E is for Linden, New Jersey where it was built
and 178500 is the series in which it was built

W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
72 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 21:29:43 -0400 (EDT)
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Secondary Metering Rods REPLY

In a message dated 97-07-15 20:21:18 EDT, you write:

<<  So he can't tell what rods would be richer.  The rods I have now
 are stamped DA, can anyone here (maybe somebody who ordered that big set
 of carb books?) tell me what the next richest rod (or two) would be?  
 
 If somebody knows, I think this would be good info for the FAQ!
  >>
DA rods are as follow part number 7046010 it has a medium tip length and the
bottom tip is size of .0440, the next richer rod is BE which has a short tip
and tip size is .0410, your best bet is to use AX rods part number 7033549
and has a long tip and tip size of .0397.  long tips are best suited for drag
racing, I do have all the part numbers and letter codes of Q-jet metering
rods, Its in a book called
"Rochester Carburetors"  by HP books written by Doug Roe.

W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
72 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 17:05:19 -0500
From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Subject: Re: Smog Adventure

> 
> OK, enough self-congratulations... In fact, an emissions test based on
> percentages isn't going to tell you how much you pollute, but what
> percentage of the stuff passing through your engine is pollution; so, a 425
> with a 1% CO rating pollutes more than a 135ci motor with, say, 2% CO. In
> addition, while our older cars measure fine at idle, I'd cringe to think
> what the percentages would be at, say, 1/2-full throttle. My Toro's 455
> probably puts out more unburned hydrocarbons on a full-throttle run than a
> Geo Metro can hold in its gas tank!

Also, the ratio of old cars to new cars 100 to 1 maybe. Still the
percentages say that it's the new cars that are killing the atmosphere.
BTW, I have a theory and maybe some of you chemist out there could shoot
some holes in it. I believe the catalytic converters are what is causing
most of the acid rain. The smell of sulfur suggest sulfur dioxide which
will turn into sulfiric acid when mixed with water vapor. Which in turn
condenses and ruins your clearcoat.

Danny

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 17:21:04 -0500
From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Subject: Re: Forged Pistons??

> 
>         Questions:
> 
>         1.      Is there any way to determine the compression ratio of the
> pistons?
 		Not really. Olds 455 pistons all have dishes. The smaller the dish
the higher compresion. I would guess it would be 10.25:1 or maybe 10.5:1
tops. All four bbl engine are high compression so find out what ratios
were available that year. 
>         2.      Does the F marking on the pistons mean that they are forged,
> or am I grasping for straws (I would like to be able to recycle the pistons
> if possible to save $).
 				I'm fairly sure that the F stands for front. This is to guide the
installation of the pistons. Forged pistons are a little heavier and
harder that cast. Also, forged pistons will have a small dip in the
center. 
>         I will post further questions as I get deeper into this project.
> 
Danny

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 22:02:59 -0400
From: "Gil Russell" <Russellg@dmv.com>
Subject: Exhaust smell, low power

Hi All,
	Need some Info/advice in two areas with some problems I'm having with my
84 H/O 307

1. I replaced the Catalytic converter earlier this year it had been
hollowed out by the previous owner.  Prior to replacing the converter I
always had a strong raw fuel smell and since then the smell can best be
described as propane like.  Is this normal or do I need to go have the carb
adjusted? 

2. At 55mph the trans shifts and the engine seems to hesitate and miss and
just doesn't seem to have the power it should.  I dont have the slightest
ideal what would cause this.

As far as I know everything is original in the engine compartment, the car
has 107K miles on it.  I had the trans serviced already.


All the help you can give is appreciated.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 22:03:53 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Update: Parts Voice - Can this be true?

Matthew Mayer wrote:
> 
> Paul Hartlieb wrote:
> >
> > Looking forward to hearing from someone and finding out how good this
> > Parts Voice works.
> >
> Paul,
>    I called this morning.  nice lady answered the phone....just alittle
> hard-of-hearing (it took three trys for her to figure out my name isn't
> NATE....)  They DO have the parts, but the fender 395878 is listed for a
> '76 88 Custom XXXXX (she couldn't read the rest...Cruiser maybe?)  I
> hope this will interchange w/ your 98.  Part was described as "with
> hole"  she didn't have any more info other than that.  Fender Skirt is
> also available.  No reference to condition so as she said "it must be
> fine."  She didn't have prices, but I gave my # so the owner can call me
> later.  I will see if I can get a better desription (or maybe eyeball..)
> the "hole"...
> 
> More details as events warrant...

Hmmmm.  A Custom Cruiser, huh?  Hope that's wrong.  I just double
checked the part # in my '67 parts book and it is the right # for 1967
5200, 5600, 5800 series cars and 98s.  I guess it's possible that they
could have re-used the # almost 10 years later, but I hope not.  That
whole thing could be one of two things (at least for a '67).  My car has
cornering lights, which needs a rectangular hole in front of the wheel
well.  On the Delta 88 Custom models (maybe this is what she meant and
just got the year wrong), they had a Starfire-like vent thing behind the
wheel well.  Wouldn't work on my car.  Besides, that should have a
different part #.  I'm wondering if these parts are NOS or not?

Thanks for calling.  I appreciate your help.  You're saving me some
phone charges.  Looking forward to hearing what you find out.

Thanks
Paul
> 
> --
> ---Matt
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------
> mailto:mmayer@interaccess.com    |  VM: 800-481-1323
> remove the "spoiler" for replies |
> --------------------------------------------------------

- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 22:24:17 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: FSM Copies needed

Peter Teubel wrote:
> 
>      Does anyone out there in Olds land have an FSM for a '51 98?  I need
>      copies of the transmission removal section.  I'm having a tranny
>      removed at a 'yard by a friend who is not familiar with this old car.
>      Can anyone send or fax me those few pages?  Thanks in advance!
> 
>      - Pete Teubel
>      '51 98
>      '82 98
>      '86 Ciera

I think I've got a '52 out in the garage.  Whats the fax #?  I can tell
you up front this is gonna be a b*tch.  I had the tranny removed from my
'52 to have it overhauled.  They had none of the right tools and it took
forever to get it out and get it back in.  My bill for labor for
removal  and re-installation was just as much as the overhaul bill was.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 21:35:58 -0500
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: Gear Ratio

> I was wondering if there is anyone who would know what the formula is for
> calculating gear ratio using tire height ..
> Any help would be welcome
> 
> Bob
mph=tr/168*rpm/gr
rpm=168*gr*mph/tr
gr=tr*rpm/168/mph
tr=168*mph*gr/rpm
tr- tire radius   gr- gear ratio 

Competition Cams web site (cant remember url) has a program you can down
load for free that will figure out stuff like this.

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 22:32:10 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Is it a real '69 442 (VIN needs to be broken down)

David Leck wrote:
> 
> >If you can help this guy descipher his VIN, he would greatly appreciate it.
> >vin#336679E178500

> E = (this is probably a 'B', indicating Baltimore)

They didn't built Oldses at Baltimore, did they?  I thought that was
always a Chevrolet plant.  I think it's supposed to be an E for Linden,
NJ.  Then again, I always thought that all Olds convertibles were built
in Lansing.

Paul

- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 23:38:28 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Full-size car adventures

On Wed, 16 Jul 1997, Dave Ward wrote:
> About that '78 Delta that you were looking at...you said it was a deep
> burgandy with bright red interior (which you said was dog-ugly)? 

Not me... I think I said it was a stripper, but the only ugly part was 
the cracked armrest base and B-pillar trim. Not a bad interior at all 
otherwise. 

> What a
> coincidence...that's the exact colour scheme of my '78 Delta.  Since
> I'll be repainting it within the next six months, what colour do you
> suggest I go with?

I'm partial to lighter colors generally, but that's just me. I was 
thinking that if repainting it was an option, maybe that gold/tan etallic 
that was real popular in those cars would be nice with the red top and 
trim. But then again, I'm colorblind... 

> The Delta you had for a drive had the Rocket (350?) in it?  If so, does
> that mean that MY Olds has the Rocket?  (same year, same model). 

I would think so. Is the oil filler tube in the front above the water pump?

> can't believe that your test-driver had zero options on it...mine is
> power everything, but is missing tilt/cruise.  

This is a symptom of cars intended for this market until very recently. 
People here traditionally ordered cars with very few options, and this 
one is typical of that. Could have been a police cruiser if not for the 
standard suspension. It is *basic*. :) 

> I imagine that my Delta has the TH350 tranny, just like that one, but
> what would the rear-end gears be?  I've been meaning to post that
> question for some time now.

Don't know, hope someone does. I'd guess 2.73 or so.

> Now you're from Canada, so I know we're both talking the same currency
> exchange.  The guy wants $2500 for it?  Is that to support his
> crack-cocaine addiction?  Once I'm done with the brake lines, new
> rubber, and painting my Olds, will it be worth even close to that much?
> The odometer is reading 183K (km), but the interior looks like it has
> only 83K on it, but I had no clue they were worth that much.

Our market here is very strange. You can buy almost nothing for under 
$2K, and cars under $1500 or so are generally one step away from the 
boneyard. I hear Ontario is different. The only thing inflating the value 
of this car somewhat is the excellent condition of the body and frame 
(plus reasonably good paint), and the fact that it seemingly runs perfectly. 

BTW, if I buy it, it'll be for considerably less than $2500. 

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 22:37:21 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Found 1972 442

Just to let the members of the list know .  A 1972 442 was scrapped in a
local yard I took the grills and rear sway bar There wasn't much left on
the car 
The engine was a 350 I didn;t climb under to see what tranny
Bench seat.. No tach or gauges The disc brakes are still there and the
boxed lower arms It had white interior 
If anyone is interested you can call me at 905-357-4454 
Or E me at docbob@caninet.com if there is something special you want me to
check for just let me know It's no problem.

Rob Schinkel
Niagara Falls, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 22:37:19 -0400
From: "Terry Teague" <dawgs@conninc.com>
Subject: Re: Exhaust smell, low power

Hi I don't know if this will help, First is the trans shifting up or
down? second the cat burns up the extra gas and that is what you are
smelling, it is not normal for you to smell it very strong. If this is
the case the carb is running very rich and you should have it checked
out. As for your shift it could be due to the carb and possibly
something to do with vacuum.

- --
Terry Teague
dawgs@conninc.com
1968 Delta Custom
2 door 455 bucket seats

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 21:43:29 -0500
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: Olds Nats Trip Report

> My 4 yr old boy has a serious car gene--you know how you could get to
> within 20 feet of the burnout box, well, Sunday he found his way down
there and
> just stood, for around 20 minutes, just a few feet from these monster pro
> eliminator cars as they did their burnouts.  He was totally transfixed by
these
> cars.  Didn't even bother to plug his ears.

Cool! Have you found a place to hide those 442 keys yet?

> The return trip had a bit more "drama" to it.  The ticking in my
valvetrain
> returned, 

Have you checked the wear on the rockers/fulcroms? What kind of oil do you
use? 

> Todd Morris
> 71 442

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 22:40:47 -0400
From: "Terry Teague" <dawgs@conninc.com>
Subject: Re: Smog Adventure

sounds like a good theory ......  try getting them to admit to it!

- --
Terry Teague
dawgs@conninc.com
1968 Delta Custom
2 door 455 bucket seats

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #759
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