
oldsmobile-digest       Monday, August 18 1997       Volume 01 : Number 806



Painting my car, need some help
I'm off!
Re: Closed list?
Re: aluminum thrid member?? Help needed
Lansing or Bust
Re: 
=?iso-8859-1?Q?Re:_New_Member_with_=B455_Olds_Sleeper?=
Re: Painting my car, need some help
Re: Technical questions
Re: SPAMMED AGAIN!
Re: Hurst Dual Gate Shifter
Re: aluminum thrid member?? Help needed
big 4 wheel discs
Re: Headliners
W30 torque Spec
Info on the "PC's for Sale Due to Corp Upgrade" Spammer
Re: opinions on tires?
Spammed
Re: W30 torque Spec
Re: W30 torque Spec
Lansing List
Re: Headliners
Timing 307 V8
Re: Technical questions
Re: Timing 307 V8
Re: delta 88/ auction price
Re: Response to the Apology for the rudeness
Re: Info on the "PC's for Sale Due to Corp Upgrade" Spammer
'65 442 runs!
Re: Timing 307 V8
Re: '65 442 runs!
Fuel Pump replacement
Re: Timing 307 V8
Re: delta 88/ auction price
Re: W30 torque Spec
Al Barlow
Six Door Delta 88
Re: 4011
Parts/Advice needed
Re: Six Door Delta 88
Re: GM A Body rear end
Re: GM A Body rear end
Re: Six Door Delta 88
Re: Fuel Pump replacement
ADMIN: Changes
88/98/Toro Rear Blower-type Defogger Info
Re: ADMIN: Changes
83 H/O.4-SALE, MORE INFO PLEASE
RE: Fuel Pump replacement
RE: Fuel Pump replacement
FOR ANYONE GOING TO LANSING!!!!!
[none]
GuageHelp
Re: GuageHelp
Re: Fuel Pump replacement

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 00:50:34 -0600
From: "Igor" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Subject: Painting my car, need some help

	I would like to paint my car within the next couple of weeks, but I have a
question first.  What is the difference in the procedure of painting a car
using metalic and non-metalic paints.  I would be doing the entire work
myself and would much rather choose a metalic color then non-metalic. I
intend to remove all trim and prime the entire car.  Would this help the
final finish look good?  I am not looking for miracels, but would like my
paint to look half-decent and shine.  Should I use clearcoat ant the end? 
What grade sandpaper should I be using throughout the entire job?   The car
has a vinyI top in good shape.  Should I use a different paint  and/or
primer when working on it. I hope that there is guys out there that did
this themselfs and could help me out.  Thanks.

P.S. The car being painted is the 1981 Delta 88.

Igor Todorovic	
1981 Delta 88 307	
1995 Intrepid 3.3
1976 Delta 88 455

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 05:01:25 -0400 (EDT)
From: Oly13@aol.com
Subject: I'm off!

All

(hummed to the tune of the Wizard of OZ)

I'm off to see the Toro's, the wonderfull world of Toro's.  I'm off, I'm off
I'm off, I'm off, I'm offffff, the wonderfull world of Tornado's


Drive safely, and I'll see ya'll there!

Tom
Oly13@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 07:20:00 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Closed list?

On Mon, 18 Aug 1997, Mike Rothe wrote:

> This one's for Greg Beaulieu, but others are probably interested...
> 
> Any updates on making this a closed list?  This last spam really twisted
> me into a knot, and now my underwear is too tight.  (dang old spam) 

To all... no progress on doing this yet. I requested assistance from 
Chebucto's majordomo guru a couple of weeks ago with no reply yet. He may 
be away. Be assured that as soon as it gets figured out, it will happen...

I sent a request to Netcom re. the spam message; we'll see if anything 
happens.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 03:27:13 -0700
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: aluminum thrid member?? Help needed

Mike Aldana wrote:
> 
> i was checking for rust under the car i noticed the third member 

Huh?  What is a third member?

Chris Sparks
68 4-4-2 SC
68 4-4-2 HT
82 D-R-B SC

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 07:56:01 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Lansing or Bust

Hey all,

        Got the W-30 on the trailer and we're headed out. Hope to meet up
with the list members on Thurs. Everyone going have a safe trip and see ya
there!

JIm Chermack

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 03:27:39 -0700
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: 

Robert Schinkel wrote:
> 
> So who left to chat with this week

I am.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 14:05:28 +0200
From: Roland Klinger <Roland.Klinger@bonn.netsurf.de>
Subject: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Re:_New_Member_with_=B455_Olds_Sleeper?=

Hello Gary,

>Thought I'd drop a line to say "Hi" and tell you a little about my Olds
>that has been on the brink of completion for a couple of months now.

Glad to read you here!

>... so if you see a bald headed guy in a white and turquoise '55 driving
            > somewhere in Northern California (Pleasanton home base) with
a big smile on > his face, it's me.

So if you see a bald headed guy in a white and turquoise ī56 driving
somewhere in Germany (near Bonn) with a big smile on his face, itīs me.

Greetings, Roland Klinger, Niederkassel Germany
- --- ī56 Olds 88 Holiday Coupe --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 09:19:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: SRB442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Painting my car, need some help

In a message dated 97-08-18 05:56:48 EDT, you write:

<< 	I would like to paint my car within the next couple of weeks, but I have
a
 question first.  What is the difference in the procedure of painting a car
 using metalic and non-metalic paints.  I would be doing the entire work
 myself and would much rather choose a metalic color then non-metalic. I
 intend to remove all trim and prime the entire car.  Would this help the
 final finish look good?  I am not looking for miracels, but would like my
 paint to look half-decent and shine.  Should I use clearcoat ant the end? 
 What grade sandpaper should I be using throughout the entire job?   The car
 has a vinyI top in good shape.  Should I use a different paint  and/or
 primer when working on it. I hope that there is guys out there that did
 this themselfs and could help me out.  Thanks.
  >>
Hi,
     I do all of my own painting and the prep work is the most important. It
is a good idea to pime the whole car or seal it so everthing is one color
when you paint. If yo are going to use a metallic color I would use base coat
then some clear solid colors you can base clear or use a single stage product
no clear. I would't worry to much about shine most clears an solid colors can
be wet sanded and buffed to shine. I use 360 paper for final sand and have no
sand scratchs when done. Metallics can be tricky to get them on evenly. I
just painted my 70 442 with gold metallic and there is some slight mottling
of the metallic but will still look good when done. If you have other
specific questions I will try to answer. I don't do this for a living but my
cars seem to look real good.    Steve
1967 442 (Lansing Bound)
1970 442 (Starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel)
1973 442 (510 H.P. Beast)
1985 Delta 88 Royale Brougham 2 dr (My economy car)
OCA # 016050 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 08:37:23 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: Technical questions

>The heater in my '78 Delta 88 is ceasing to put out hot air, and the
>dash vents put out no air while at the 'VENT' setting.  However, when I
>am at the A/C settings, I _barely_ get any air coming out of those same
>registers.  I have checked behind the dash to see if there were any
>disconnected vacuum lines and I noticed there were three, but I was told
>this is typical for my climate control system (Tempmatic).  I only felt
>one cable and that one is the temperature setting.  Since it will start
>to get cold soon I wish to get this fixed.

There is still a vacuum leak or the distribution door in the heater box
under the dash is not working.  This door directs the air to the various
parts of the dash.
>
>Also, there is a gap inbetween the rear backlite and the chrome moulding
>that holds my vinyl top in place, letting debris collect inside.  I
>cleaned out as much as I could, but I am thinking of sealing these areas
>up with some silicone sealant..  These gaps are at the bottom corners of
>the backlite.

That gap is for drainage.  If you fill it you will not on;ly stop some of
the built-in drainage, but you will also have mucho trouble getting the trim
back on or off.
>
>Mike Jones
>'78 Delta 88 2dr.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 08:48:41 -0500
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Subject: Re: SPAMMED AGAIN!

>I think this clown that spammed us last time is doing it again.  This is
>uncalled for.  I CC'd a copy of the note I sent back to the spammer, and
>in case anyone is interested, the spam man address is dpci@ix.netcom.com

My In box has 347 messages in it this morning, but as soon as I find
the one you're referring to, I'll look into it and report back. In
the meantime, be on the lookout for fake return addresses before doing
anything... rash...  :-)

In other news, I see at least one of the Lansing motorcades/caravans
is scheduled to pass through Tinley Park, IL tomorrow night (Tuesday).
How accurate is that itinerary? And where and when, exactly? Would be
nice to meet up for photos if possible. Apologies if this has already
been discussed to death somewhere in my email In box this weekend...

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 09:58:19 -0400
From: hhzimmerman <hhzimmerman@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Hurst Dual Gate Shifter

Klinsmann7@aol.com wrote:
> 
> I just want to know how it works

the dual gate shifter has two sides, one for normal driving, the second for drag racing.

The dual gate shifter has two slots in it- one on the left, one on the right.  The left slot acts just like 
the factory floor shifter, it goes from park-reverse-neutral-drive-second-first.  One exception is that 
instead of pushing the shifter ball (on the standard shifter) to get it into gear, the Hurst is moved over 
to the right slightly then pulled back.

the second gate on the right is covered by a spring loaded chrome cover.  when the small knob is pulled, 
the cover springs out of the way, exposing the second slot.  the second slot starts in neutral, and goes to 
drive, second, and first.  To use it, you shift into neutral, move the shifter over about 1 1/2" into the 
second gate, then pull it all the way to the rear.

now you are in first gear. When the rpm's get up high enough to shift into second, you just push the handle 
slightly to the right and up- the stepped gates only allow one gear change at a time.  So now you're in 
second.  another foward to the right push gets you into third.

basically, it's a foolproof way to "slam" gears without fear of mis-shifting, and hitting neutral at full 
throttle.

- -greg

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 10:02:14 -0400
From: hhzimmerman <hhzimmerman@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: aluminum thrid member?? Help needed

Mike Aldana wrote:
> 
> On my last outing to look for parts, i came across a 1970 Cutlass parked
> behind a house. The car appeared complete, so i stopped to investigate. As
> i was checking for rust under the car i noticed the third member on the car
> was bigger, and different than what i had seen. It appears to be 'aluminum'
> and has ridges on the rear. It looks like it would hold more oil than a
> regular rear. Was this an option for that year(s)?? I have no info in my
> books on this. I am sure somebody on the list must know if this was an
> option, or not. Anybody help??? sincerely  Mike Aldana
> maldana@digitalwave.net

I beleive this was the W-27 aluminum rearend cover.  I don't know about extended oil capacity, but it is 
supposed to let the rearend run cooler.  (although I've never heard of an overheating rear axle!)  Mostly 
it's for looks, and you can buy one for about $80 from Fusick to make you axle look better.  I don't really 
see a need for one though.

I'm not sure what years they were available, but the Year One catalog states that they were a dealer 
installed option, so they can look correct on almost any olds.  (or they say that to sell more of them)

- -greg

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 10:11:16 -0400
From: hhzimmerman <hhzimmerman@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: big 4 wheel discs

I did some research on Baer racing's brakes, which every article I've read about them says they are simply 
awesome in stopping power.  They have a set with 12" rotors and alumimun PBR caliper (corvette) that fit 
under 15" wheels- which you could run 15" rally wheels with.  I would go with the 13" front and 12" rear 
set that works with 16" wheels.  I think american racing torq thrusts will look fine.  Cost is around 
$2000, but they are near-race quality, and I burn up a lot of backroads with my cutlass. (It has H-O 
racing's suspension system)  A cheaper solution is the big 12" rotors from an F-body and some aftermarket 
rear rotors from wilwood ($600).

greg

don't forget you need a proporting valve to properly adjust the brake bias.


Patton wrote:
> 
> > I already have the stock front discs/rear drum- but plan on getting Baer
> racings 13" front/12" rear setup
> > when I obtain a set of american racing torq-thrust D's in 16x8 to clear
> them.
> >
> > -greg
> 
>         Fellow Rocketteers,
>                 After seeing first hand the fatal results of a 455 in a 66' (car)
> with the single master cylinder and drum-drum setup, I can not stress more
> that bigger is better also applies to brakes. This disk-disk setup will
> most likely
> cost less than a new transmission (as a reference) and far less than the
> afore
> mentioned tragedy.
> 
>                         The General

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 10:08:49 -0400
From: taxlady@sbccom.com (Sieglinde Kuzava)
Subject: Re: Headliners

The last headliner I installed was, granted, in a 73 N*va, but I found
that, if the problem is that the material is separated from the backing, a
very careful application of spray adhesive will resecure it.  I plan to do
the same thing to the headliner I am preparing to install in my 78 Cutlass.

- ----------
> From: Panman638@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Headliners
> Date: Sunday, August 17, 1997 10:54 PM
> 
> I will need a new headliner in the 1972 4-4-2 i am working on. I have had
> alot of people tell me not to try do put it in myself. Has anybody put a
> headliner in. I understand if I got one from Year One they would send
> directions along with it. What is anybody thoughts or advice on this?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 10:44:48 -0400 (EDT)
From: CarrDuff@aol.com
Subject: W30 torque Spec

This is for the W30 or W31 guys.

Is the torque spec for a W30 intake manifold the same as it's CI counterpart
?
I am restoring a 71 W30 conv. and would rather not split the aluminum
manifold when I reinstall it and torque it down.

If they are not the same than would anyone know the proper torque
specifications.

By the way I also will not be going to Lansing.  I kept putting off making
any plans until it was to late.  I also recently sold my restored 70 CS
conv.,  so I wouldn't have a car to take anyway. 

I won't make that mistake again and have already made plans and reservations
for Springfield in July 98.
I should have my 442 complete by then and will take it out with me.

Steve Dietrich  (Have been an Olds Owner & Restorer( Just a Hobby) since
1896)
   Currently 71 442 W30 Conv. - Seinna W/ white top & stripes, pearl inteior
                                               All Original Equip., Engine,
AT Trans & 3.73:1 Rear   
                                               Undergoing a complete body off
restoration 
  S/E PA 
    OCA # 028633

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 09:52:44 -0500
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Subject: Info on the "PC's for Sale Due to Corp Upgrade" Spammer

Once again a reminder: Your personal email address is not known to
the spammer unless you send them email, at which point you are
probably opening yourself up to future spamming by them. Only the
Olds email list address is currently known to them.

The headers are accurate and are not forged; it is from Netcom.
The dpci@ix.netcom.com address is most likely a Netcom Netcruiser
account. To complain, send email to abuse@netcom.com and enclose
the offending message with full headers. (I will be sending a copy.)
Their account will probably be toast anyway; spammers like this
consider it a cost of doing business.

The phone numbers do check out. The address does not trace anywhere
but is probably a mail drop, though apparently not Mailboxes, Etc.
Their mail is delivered by the post office at 6555 South Kenton,
Englewood, CO 80111-6828 (Phone: (303) 792-0541; Fax: (303) 799-8339)
if you want to check up further on them. You can also click here:

http://www.mapquest.com/cgi-bin/mqfreeconnect?width=400&height=300&style=2&i
contitles=yes&streetaddress=11211+E+Arapahoe+Rd&city=Englewood&state=CO&POI1
name=Discount+Computer+Warehou+(www.pc411.com)&POI1streetaddress=11211+E+Ara
pahoe+Rd&POI1city=Englewood&POI1state=CO

...for a map (though this URL may get chopped up in emailing)

>Jeff Pond or Mike Wright - Discount PC International

There's a "Mike Wright" who lives in an apartment in Englewood, but
the "Jeff Pond" is a bit less traceable. The company itself, such as
it is, also calls itself "Global Link Technologies," though neither
is known on the web.

Bottom line? Probably a scam. (Gee, like you didn't think that was
likely already!  :-)

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 97 11:02:49 EDT
From: Doug Ahern <doug@cobra.cosmic.uga.edu>
Subject: Re: opinions on tires?

mrhell@m1.sprynet.com write:
>I'm having a tuff time finding *nice* raised white letter tires in the
>size needed.
>
>Currently the car has Dunlop, P235/70 14"

My Olds has Kelly Charger raised white letter tires. 215/60 14's on 
14x6 wheels.  The Kelly's were about $70 ea. with balancing when I got
them 5-6 years ago.  They aren't as sticky as BFG's but they last twice
as long, they do well in the rain too. 

My Dart has Firestone Firehawk SS10 raised white letter tires.  They were about 
$70 with balancing.  on 14x6 rims, I have 205/70 14's in front and
215/70 14's in the rear.  Very good traction (A rating), and they do well in 
the rain, they have deep wide tread grooves that help them go through water.
The raised white lettering look good, imho, similar to the classic indy 
look. (trac A temp B treadwear 400)

On the police car, I have Michelin XGT 255/60 15's (trac A temp A treadwear
180) in the Bridgestone RE940's (asymeterical tread pattern) 215/60R15's 
trac A temp A treadwear 220).  The XGT's were very expensive but I got them 
on a clearance sale at an NTW.  The Re940's, I just bought and I like them
quite a bit,  great in the rain, great handling.    Neither the RE940
nor the XGT are white letter, but they are great tires.

The Firestone Firehawk and the Kelly Charger's aren't super performers,
but it you drive the car a lot, treadwear ratings of 400 and 420 can save
you quite a bit of money.  They are a good  comprimise between super sticky 
extreme hi perf and long term high mileage tires.  The XGT's and Re940's
aren't white letter, but I figured I'd mention them anyhow.

For performance tires,  white lettering seems to really limit your choices.
If you decide that black walls will suffice, so many more tires are available
to you.   


Doug Ahern      doug@cosmic.uga.edu  1964 F-85 Cutlass 
http://www.cosmic.uga.edu/doug.html  1969 Dart 
Sys Admin, COSMIC, Univ. of Georgia  1974 Satellite ex-cop car

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 11:19:33 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Spammed

Hey Greg

Bob here form Niagara Falls
First' I'm unable to go to the Cantennial so I won't be able to bring that
speedo 
Also some how I was mail bombed from the List and my Internet Provider has
banded all transmissions from Chebucto.ns.ca
Could someone E them and do what ever so I can go back on the list
I called them and they said in a week they might let me back in but if
someone from Administration would contact them they would allow it sooner

The e mail sight for my provider is 
amir@caninet.com

Thank you Bob
E me direct as I am unable to read from List NOW
docbob@caninet.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 08:25:26 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@nfs.aisf.com>
Subject: Re: W30 torque Spec

CarrDuff@aol.com wrote:

> (Have been an Olds Owner & Restorer( Just a Hobby) since 1896)

Wow!  Now that is impressive! :-)

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 10:28:44 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: W30 torque Spec

 




>CarrDuff@aol.com wrote:
>
>> (Have been an Olds Owner & Restorer( Just a Hobby) since 1896)
>
>Wow!  Now that is impressive! :-)
>
>Chris Sparks

He gave R.E. Olds all of his ideas.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 08:39:45 -0700
From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Subject: Lansing List

NAME                 HOTEL               DATE       CAR
====                 =====               ====       ===
Fair, Chris         Residence Inn       8/19-8/24   None

Looking forward to seeing you all there. Flying out tomorrow. The list
gathering is Thursday right? Too bad I have to leave the 98 at home...

cf

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 10:40:32 -0500
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Subject: Re: Headliners

>Been there, done that, almost screwed it up.  Never again.
>
>It looks so EASY in the car resto mags, you would think a 4 year old
>could do it.  I did my headliner in my 71 442, and it looks OK, but took
>me two days to do it and get it to look right.  MOFO!!!

If you're not looking for perfection, just to get a sagging existing
headliner from blocking the rear-view mirror, I came across a pack
of fasteners sold by the MotorMite "HELP!" line made for the job.
They're flat plastic buttons with short threaded pins on one side;
you push the pin through the sagging headliner and screw it into the
hardboard backing. Haven't needed to try them yet but previous kits
sold by this company for fixing various GM shortcomings (anyone remember
their pull-handle armrests from the '70's? :-) have worked pretty well.

(Satisfied customer only, etc...)

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 11:49:16 -0400 (EDT)
From: phouse@thor.feith.com (Peter L. House)
Subject: Timing 307 V8

Hi Folks, I had a question to ask that I should know the answer to.

This weekend trying to set the timimg after changing spark plugs,
wires cap & rotor, I got confused about the procedures to set the
timing. Where is the C-3 wire that I am supposed to ground. There
is a green connector coming out of the wire harness above the water
housing is this it ? or is this the dwell connector.
My next guess is to ground the diag. terminal A & B under the dash,
is this it?????

Peter L. House
'87 Salon
phouse@feith.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 10:53:20 -0500
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Subject: Re: Technical questions

>The heater in my '78 Delta 88 is ceasing to put out hot air, and the
>dash vents put out no air while at the 'VENT' setting.

Failure to produce air at the dash vents in GM cars means you've got
no control vacuum. Assuming you haven't simply got disconnected
vacuum lines under the hood, the most common point of failure is a
rotary vacuum selector valve mounted behind the HVAC control panel
in your dash; it's operated by the upper slide control (the one for
OFF/MAX/AC/VENT/HEAT/DEFROST). The fact that you mentioned being
able to get a little air via the AC setting tells me that you do
have a vacuum supply but the valve is probably bad. Amazingly, the
part was still being sold by GM the last time I needed one (for a
'77-vintage Caprice; probably the same part) and was a whopping $9.

You can replace it yourself; it accesses from the front of the dash
with only a few fiddly steps along the way. I can email detailed
instructions if you feel like tackling it. (And if the old one is
not broken but simply dried out, try soaking its rubber seal disk
in clean brake fluid and reassembling; that sometimes works. OTOH,
if you've gone that far with the disassembly, spend the $9.  :-)
 

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 11:10:23 -0500
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Subject: Re: Timing 307 V8

>This weekend trying to set the timimg after changing spark plugs,
>wires cap & rotor, I got confused about the procedures to set the
>timing. Where is the C-3 wire that I am supposed to ground. There
>is a green connector coming out of the wire harness above the water
>housing is this it ? or is this the dwell connector.

Maybe dwell. I never came across instructions on what to use it for
while doing routine tuning, though.

>My next guess is to ground the diag. terminal A & B under the dash,
>is this it?????

No, that'll put the ECM into test mode and activate all your solenoids,
among other things.

From foggy memory of my '82, I think all that was required was to
unplug the four-wire harness at the distributor. This would turn
on the Check Engine light, at which point you set your base timing.
Check your RPMs to ensure that you're not idling too fast and getting
centrifugal advance. (Can you still read the tuneup sticker under the
hood? That's where I found my base timing instructions.)

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: 18 Aug 1997 09:08:35 -0700
From: "Mike Gardner" <Mike_Gardner@latgqmg.sps.mot.com>
Subject: Re: delta 88/ auction price

                      RE>delta 88/ auction price                   8/18/97

I'm interested in Delta 88s.  Own a '70 Delta 88, 455.  Arizona car.  Been in
family over 20 years.  Lot'sa memories.  Love to cruise after sunset.  Have
all original paper work.  Fixin' to rebuild and restore.  But no experience. 
So I'm quietly listening to ya'll and filing the important stuff for future
reference and getting the manuals and catalogues that have been suggested. 
When I start work on this project I'll get active and drop everyone an update
from time-to-time.
Mike Gardner

- --------------------------------------
Date: 8/5/97 2:36 PM
To: Mike Gardner
From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca%INTE
hi everybody,

i've seen many people in the last few days asking for auction prices. so i
tink i'm gonna give it a try too.
Mike do you have anything regarding a 73 delta 88 royale convertible.
i hope i will be more lucky than walter.
in a way i fill the same about my 73: i've not read anything yet about it,
and generally not much about the year 73. what's wrong with thi year?
anyway after his remark about not too many people being interested in delta
88 (66 only or all years?) i had a quick check:

	-walter ?, tom adams: 66
	-lisa malden: 67
	-myself: 73
	-dan gulino: 75
	-john shelp: 77
	-s.dave ward: 78 & 85
	-steve ?: 85
not to bad in the end. did i forget anybody?


apart from that, i'm trying to meet some people in miami interested in
oldsmobile. i don't remember seeing anybody with an address there. am i wrong?

that's all...

alain lachatre

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 12:17:40 -0400
From: Lindsey <iamoz@ime.net>
Subject: Re: Response to the Apology for the rudeness

At 12:04 AM 8/17/97 -0400, you wrote:
>In all the response to Al's feather ruffling & subsequent discussion, it
occurs
>to me that I neglected to apologize to Al & the list in general for the
tone of
>the letter.
>
>That should have begun via personal email, not the list, I suppose. Less
>crudely done, in any event.
>
>My missive was by no means representative of the list in general, just one
guy
>offering his perspective on Al's post. As you see, Al, many rallied to
support
>you. Even a couple to support my concept if not my lame delivery thereof. It
>even garnered the record-setting 2-word response from Mr. U.!
>
>So, I formally apologize to those I have offended, particularly Al. Open
mouth,
>swap feet. Again. I shall try to be more... urbane in the future.
>
>Surely we have better things to talk about here. As you were.
>--
>Chris  B. Witt
>*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
>wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
>
>Chris,
Apology accepted. I must admit that I also owe you and the members an
apology for my article I placed as I did not mean to offend anyone. The use
of the word "junk yard" was inappropriate. What happened was a person here
I know locally said he wanted first refussal and would give me between $300
and $400 for the car to part out. I was really hoping someone with more
time and mopney than myself could save this car.So with that in mind and I
must admit the chance to make a few dollars for my 71 442 convertible, I
opted to post the article to the lovers of these cars. I agree that I shoud
not be trying to make money off "family" members and with that in mind I
would gladly let anyone here have this car for the $100 I paid to have it
towed to my house. I hope this clears up this mess I started as I would
like to continue to be an active member of this group ready to help when I
can.

Al Barlow
1972 Olds Cutlass Supreme Convertible
1971 Olds 442 Convertible
Thomaston, Maine

 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 11:22:26 -0500
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Subject: Re: Info on the "PC's for Sale Due to Corp Upgrade" Spammer

>Their account will probably be toast anyway; spammers like this
>consider it a cost of doing business.

Netcom just sent me a standard reply confirming that they're history.

>Their mail is delivered by the post office at 6555 South Kenton,
>Englewood, CO 80111-6828 (Phone: (303) 792-0541; Fax: (303) 799-8339)
>if you want to check up further on them.

Just to clarify: this address is for their Post Office, not them. If
you want to take it up with the local Postal Inspector for any reason
(e.g. you actually ordered something and it didn't show up), this is
where you would contact him or her.

Now back to Olds talk until next time!  :-)

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 11:49:21 -0500 (CDT)
From: Paul Brillhart <u17058@uicvm.uic.edu>
Subject: '65 442 runs!

  I finished the cam swap this last Saturday.  I had to get a drop base air
cleaner and a Russell braided hose feed line to clear the air-cleaner on the
Holley 4011.  The guy at Super Shops told me it would fit.  Guess what, it
didn't.  I ended up putting on a 4160 square bore 750 with vacuum
secondaries.  Nice carb, ten years ago when it was on my Mach 1.  I'll be
rebuilding it next weekend.  Back to the Olds, fired it up and idled it at
2000 rpm for 15-20 min. to break the cam in.  Took it arond the block and
even with the carb needing a rebuild, it kicked butt over having the 39
degree in there.  I'll have to completely go through the carb before I know
how much better it actually is.  


  There is a problem though, the carb would not fit using the Q-jet to
square-bore flange with an air cleaner.  In other words, it is bolted
directly to the Torker.  The Polish part of me says"Good show", the Scottish
part of me says"Hey, it beats paying for another part or a different
manifold", and the German part says"STOP!!!!  YOU'RE DOING IT WRONG".  (The
Estonian part of me is staying quiet as it is used to complying with the
wills of other nations.)  I know this is bad in terms of what the signal
pulses "see" in that they should only act on the carb valves and not lose
momentum by hitting flat carb flange.  My options are; 1. Get some aluminum
Devcon and recontour the top of the manifold, 2. cut my hood and get a
scoop, 3. buy a 360 Offy, 4. live with it as is.


  I tend towards options 1. and 3..  I've ported aluminum manifolds before
with good results and have the equipment(impact probe, laminar flow
element,..ect.) to measure the results, but time is a problem.  Child, new
job and house hunting take most of that.  I refuse to cut my hood unless I
had an extra and I don't have an extra.  I may have to live with it for 2-3
weeks, but I'd rather buy a new/used Offy Equa-Flow.  

  What do you guys think?


  Thanks in advance.


  Paul Brillhart



P.S. I know I  could put a Q-jet on the Torker, but I honestly favor the
square-bore Holley.  No offense, Q-jet fans, just a choice.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 12:08:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Subject: Re: Timing 307 V8

Hi Peter,

> Where is the C-3 wire that I am supposed to ground. 

This is terminal C of the ALDL underdash connector:

___________________________  Since terminal A is ground, just jumper
 | F | E | D | C | B | A |   C to A.  Removing the connector at the 
 |-----------------------|   distributor, as Andy suggested, is correct
 | G | H | J | K | L | M |   for Ch*v V8's and probably Buick V6's
 -------------------------   as well.  BTW, the green connector near the
                             carburetor is indeed to measure M/C dwell.

Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 12:06:26 -0500
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Subject: Re: '65 442 runs!

>  There is a problem though, the carb would not fit using the Q-jet to
>square-bore flange with an air cleaner.
[...]
>The Polish part of me says, "Good show," the Scottish
>part of me says, "Hey, it beats paying for another part or a different
>manifold," and the German part says, "STOP!!!! YOU'RE DOING IT WRONG."
>(The Estonian part of me is staying quiet as it is used to complying 
>with the wills of other nations.)
[...]
>What do you guys think?

The English part of me says, "It will leak oil all over the place
and the fuses will blow during a rainstorm." The American part of
me says, "I have a 62-page memo around here somewhere on how to do
this right."  :-)

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 13:10:41 -0400
From: Charles Sullivan <temair@erols.com>
Subject: Fuel Pump replacement

Greetings to all.  My name is Charles Sullivan, and I have a humble 1972 
Cutlass, 2 bbl 350 4 door.  It was my grandparents' so there's a lot of 
sentimental value, and it wasn't in too bad shape when it came into my 
hands a few years ago.  The body would have probably preferred a more 
hospitable area than Maryland, and as it had been neglected for a while it 
was not particularly running.  But it had only 20,000 miles on it, in its 
active life had the oil changed regularly, and as my grandmother was the of 
type to put clear plastic on seats the interior was beautiful.  As it 
turned out, it mostly needed some simple attention - hoses, new spark 
wires, inexpensive parts replaced, tune-up, etc. to get things running. 
 Things that a complete beginner (like me) could gradually learn over 
weekends.  It's been a lot of fun.

With the car in pretty good shape and now up to 46,000 miles I thought I'd 
try to get rid of a gasoline odor that has been noticeable for a while.  I 
replaced the rubber hoses going in and out of the carbon canister along 
with the filter hoping for the easy fix, but it was left the problem 
unchanged. So I decided to do a more thorough job replacing all the 
pertinent hoses, and as the bottom of the fuel pump felt suspiciously damp 
I figured that should probably be replaced too.  That's my problem right 
now.

Ignoring the many bad words uttered in trying to get the metal fuel line 
off, I'm having trouble getting the pump to slide out.  The car has air 
conditioning and the compressor is quite close, but the problem is 
primarily a large cast iron bracket.  The pump seems boxed in and I can't 
figure out how to get it out.  The lower radiator hose is to one side, but 
I'm not sure removing that would help.  Perhaps it's simple, but I'm not 
anxious to break anything or accidentally unmount the engine while trying 
to get it out.  I have a 1973 Service Manual that someone gave me that's 
usually good enough for my car, and Chiltons, but unfortunately both are of 
the "(1) remove old fuel pump (2) install new fuel pump" variety on this 
matter.

Any suggestions and wisdom would be greatly appreciated.  I apologize if 
this topic has been recently addressed - I made a cursory search through 
past messages, but it's difficult to find things sometimes.

Many thanks in advance,
Charles

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 12:11:19 -0500
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Subject: Re: Timing 307 V8

>___________________________  Since terminal A is ground, just jumper
> | F | E | D | C | B | A |   C to A.  Removing the connector at the 
> |-----------------------|   distributor, as Andy suggested, is correct
> | G | H | J | K | L | M |   for Ch*v V8's and probably Buick V6's
> -------------------------   as well.

Kevin's right; the engine in my '82 was the Buick V6.

(Hey, Kevin, great ASCII art!)

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 13:15:36 -0400
From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Subject: Re: delta 88/ auction price

At 09:08 AM 8/18/97 -0700, you wrote:
>Date: 8/5/97 2:36 PM
>To: Mike Gardner
>From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca%INTE
>hi everybody,
>
>i've seen many people in the last few days asking for auction prices. so i
>tink i'm gonna give it a try too.
>Mike do you have anything regarding a 73 delta 88 royale convertible.
>i hope i will be more lucky than walter.
>in a way i fill the same about my 73: i've not read anything yet about it,
>and generally not much about the year 73. what's wrong with this year?

What's wrong with 1973 is that's it's not 1972!  Remember that the biggest
piece of Oldsmobile interest has long been the Cutlass/442.  After 1972, it
seems that interest in Cutlass/442 (A-body), which is the mainstay of much
of this list and of the OCA, drops off the map.  1973 was a major redesign
year for the A-bodies after the immensely popular and successful 1968-1972
Cutlass body style.  1973 was when anti-pollution requirements began to
kick in in earnest, thus sapping performance considerably.  Also, 1973 was
the first year that you could not get an A-body convertible after having
had a convertible body style available in this line since its inception in
1961.


The full-sized (B-body) models are a bit different story.  These underwent
their major redesign for the 1971 model year.  Actually, the A-bodies were
supposed to follow this by one year, in 1972, but the big GM strike in the
fall of 1970 forced GM to delay the introduction of the new Cutlass body
style to 1973.  This is actually quite an interesting point.  If it weren't
for the 1970 GM strike, the new A-body body style would have appeared in
1972, instead of 1973, and, to this day, we would be collecting and
celebrating the 1968-1971 Cutlasses and 442s instead of the 1968-1972s.
There would have been one less model year available.

Anyway, back to the B-bodies.  These received a redesigned body style in
1971, and it lasted through 1976.  Convertibles were available through
1975, and, after 1972, the B-bodies (Delta 88, Caprice, LeSabre, and
Bonneville/Grand Ville), plus the Cadillac Eldorado through 1976, were the
only models offered by GM where you could get a convertible.

In my opinion, the 1971-1976 Olds Delta 88s are among the best-looking cars
produced by GM during that era.  I own one of these, so my opinion might be
considered biased, but I'll at least be honest enough to say that, of these
years, I think that the 1974s are the most attractive.  In 1976, they went
to rectangular headlights.  

But you aren't going to buy one of these cars because you want to enter the
local drag races.  You buy them because you want to own one of the last of
the big GM boulevard barges.  They're big, they're comfortable, and they're
big (or did I already say that?).



Dan



**************************************
Daniel A. Gulino
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/rides.html
1975 Delta 88 Convertible
**************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 13:27:28 -0400 (EDT)
From: CarrDuff@aol.com
Subject: Re: W30 torque Spec

<< CarrDuff@aol.com wrote:
 >
 >> (Have been an Olds Owner & Restorer( Just a Hobby) since 1896) Wow!  Now
that is impressive! :-)
 >
 >Chris Sparks
 
 He gave R.E. Olds all of his ideas.
 
 Bill Culp
 Decatur, Alabama >>


Man you guys are tough !  """"""""""""  1986 """""""""""""""
I must have the same brand comupter that some else here has been complaining
about.  I know I typed the date, it just came out wrong on the D*!*/* thing.

Any way,  any further information would be great on the torque spec.

Thanks, 
  Steve Dietrich
       71 W30 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 13:28:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: WKBZZZZ@aol.com
Subject: Al Barlow

hey Al 
 I agree with you about chris' comments, it you car try to get what you feel
is fair out of it, but also try to keep it from the crusher. I could use a
small parts from this car if you would be willing to sell it? e-mail if you
would be intresed.
                                                            


                                                                Keith
Brumbley
                                                                71 442 conv.



                                                              wkbzzzz@aol.com
                                                                     

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 13:58:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: NotDads442@aol.com
Subject: Six Door Delta 88

Yesterday when I was driving to one of the local parts stores(my Ch*vy
Caprice need parts) I spotted a six doored Delta 88 for sale.  It looks like
the 77-85 body style.  And appears to be in good condition.  I only looked
from the street though.

If anybody's interested in such an unusual piece just send my an e-mail and I
will run by and take a closer look.

I have to say that this is one of the most unusual Olds' I've ever seen.
 I've never seen a stretched Olds just Caddies and Lincolns.  Has anybody
else ever seen such a car??

Cecil
1991 W-41

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 12:59:23 -0500 (CDT)
From: Paul Brillhart <u17058@uicvm.uic.edu>
Subject: Re: 4011

At 01:42 PM 8/18/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Paul,
>	I put a 4011 on my 67' 455 motor. Summit racing makes an angle fuel
>line just for the 4011 carb. Part #s vary for vacuum secondary and choke
>style.
>I went to my local bone yard and got two **** air cleaners off of 460
>powered
>land yachts. They were of the drop style and the snorkels bolted on, not
>welded
>like GM. I now have a clean dual snorkel air cleaner , similar to the
>factory W30
>unit. Good Luck.
>
>	PS if you wish to sell the 4011 i will take it off of your hands.
>
>					The General
>



  I've had trouble in the past with the 4011 loading up when it is warm and
killing the engine when I came to an abrupt stop.  At first I thought it was
due to the wrong angle cam, however, I checked the Holley web page message
board and found many complaints about the 4011 along those lines.  I must
admit, I like the Torker and would like to keep it on.  My 4011 has vacuum
secondaries and a manual choke.  Same as yours?  If so, I'll look around the
Chicago area bone yards for a 460 air cleaner.  Thanks for the tip.


  Paul

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 14:06:10 -0500 (CDT)
From: Rick Kromeich <rickk@ecg.csg.mot.com>
Subject: Parts/Advice needed

I am starting to actively search for parts for my 72 Cutlass Convert
restoration.  This car will be used strictly for my pleasure so I will be
making some modifications from original - but will keep some of the stock
goodies tucked away so I can always revert back if needed. (Don't start
original vs. fake war!)
I will be asking quite a bit as I get into this project as I am somewhat
mechanically inlined, think I know what I'd like to have, but usually take
the longest, most expensive route to get there.  I'd like to change that
with the expert advice from this list. (brown nosed mode off)

My car currently has a standard hood and I would like to get a 442 hood
for it.  I don't think that I may have the funds for an OAI hood unless
I stumble across a bargain - any out there???  Otherwise, does anyone
have any recomendations for a good repro?  Any suggestions?

Also, I am looking for lower quarter panel patch panels.  Does anyone
make/sell/have any good ones.  I have the usual rust through at the bottom
of the quarters, and one has some around the wheel molding.  I don't
think I need to go the route of replacing the entire panels as they aren't
that bad, and the money isn't there.  If anything, maybe the body shop
can make something up.

I have just started searching for a suitable body shop in the Chicagoland
area and would like to have the necessary parts in hand when going in for the 
work to be done.  Anyone have any leads on any body shops in the Chicagoland
area that specialize in restorations?

Sorry for the rambling, I'm just excited that I may finally start on the
cosmetics of this beauty and I want to do it right without spending a fortune.

Hope everyone has an awesome time in Lansing, if someone spots a hood or
patch panels, let me know!!!

Thanx
- -Rick 72 Cutlass Supreme Convert.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 14:10:40 -0500
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Subject: Re: Six Door Delta 88

>I have to say that this is one of the most unusual Olds' I've ever seen.
> I've never seen a stretched Olds just Caddies and Lincolns.  Has anybody
>else ever seen such a car??

Yes, I've seen a few running around in the Chicago area. I remember
wondering when I saw them why they didn't stretch a 98 instead; the
stacked, amber-over-red taillights were instantly recognizable...

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 15:17:25 -0400 (EDT)
From: WKBZZZZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: GM A Body rear end

HI Mike

if the chevy rear is drum to drum from 68-72 chevelle it will bolt right in
your 69,
if it is earlier you will need to modify mounting brackets (not worth it).
The u joints should also match right up.I've done this several times and it
works fine, note: put a new rubber brake line in place of your old one. The
only problem is if you need repairs to the unit in the future (posi unit
itself), remember its a chevelle at the parts store not an olds. 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 15:21:26 -0400 (EDT)
From: WKBZZZZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: GM A Body rear end

I forgot to mention if the u-joint dosen't match up, lakewood makes units to
mate drive shat to the rear.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 16:03:17 -0400 (EDT)
From: WKBZZZZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: Six Door Delta 88

I went to my high schools prom in an olds stretch, It was very cool!






                                               Keith Brumbley
                                               71 442 conv.
       

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 16:27:06 -0400
From: hhzimmerman <hhzimmerman@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump replacement

Charles Sullivan wrote:
> 

> Ignoring the many bad words uttered in trying to get the metal fuel line
> off, I'm having trouble getting the pump to slide out.  The car has air
> conditioning and the compressor is quite close, but the problem is
> primarily a large cast iron bracket.  
> 
> 
> Many thanks in advance,
> Charles


The lower cast iron bracket under the airconditioner compressor can be removed without moving the 
compressor. Just hold up the compressor with some coat hangers. 

My olds is a '71, but I bet the brackets are nearly the same.  The pump runs on an eccetric, maybe the pump 
arm is up all the way, try turning the motor over half a turn, then pull the pump out.

hope this might help.

- -greg

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 17:33:54 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: ADMIN: Changes

As I prepare to head off to Lansing tomorrow morning, a few points to
note: 

1. Mike Frederick has graciously agreed to do admin chores while I'm 
away. Thanks Mike! He did such a good job when I was away in June that he 
won the job again. Hope Andy Green doesn't get booted during the week as a 
result... ;-)

2. Chebucto Net's majordomo guru has announced that he thinks he can make 
the list a private one to hopefully eliminate the spam. This will be 
introduced shortly. The only potential problem we foresee is the 
possibility that folks who are subscribed under one address and post from 
a different address (perhaps an alias or whatever) may no longer be able 
to do so. We'll be monitoring, but if there are problems as a result over 
the next few days I ask for your indulgence. With Lansing happening this 
week it may take a few days longer than normal to sort them out. Just 
report them to me and I'll try to sort them out when I get back.

3. I'm going to try to obtain access from Lansing to see if we can't do a 
daily diary or whatever to keep folks who aren't there posted on the 
proceedings. Tom Stoner has offered to help in that regard. Thanks Tom!

4. Although it's probably a little late, it might be a good idea to 
uns*bscribe yourself if you're going to Lansing this week and can't pick 
up your email to avoid full mailboxes, etc... I'll be doing that myself 
tomorrow morning.

5. The PC-selling spam of yesterday was reported by several folks
including myself to Netcom, and as reported earlier by Andy I also
received a message from them saying the account has been suspended, for
what it's worth. 

Hopefully things will run smoothly while I'm away. Go easy on Mr. 
Frederick, please... he's doing this as a favor to all of us and I'm sure 
he'd appreciate every break you can give him.

Leaving for the airport in 14 hours! See some of you there...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 15:40:11 -0500
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Subject: 88/98/Toro Rear Blower-type Defogger Info

Per Terry Teague's request, I've dug out the installation sheets
for the rear window defogger kits -- I've got five NOS dealer kits
for mid-'70's 88/98/Toro series, and one for the same vintage of
Nova/Apollo/Ventura/Skylark hatchbacks. Terry's photocopies (always
exciting trying to push 22-year-old paper through a collating,
2-side photocopier :-) will be in the mail tonight; if anyone else
is interested, I can fax the instructions if you're interested in
retrofitting these things to your car.

Actual model year applicability is a bit unclear. Instruction sheet
showing installation of switch in dash says "Initial run approved 
1/20/75," so the switchgear and trim plates may fit only '75 or '76
at minimum, but the page showing the defogger assembly in the rear
shelf is dated 8/7/72, so the back-shelf stuff looks like it will
retrofit at least as far back as 1973.

Boxes labeled Group 9.778, Part No. 982024.
                        

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 13:55:17 -0800
From: Dan Lacey <lacey@dsea.com>
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Changes

>
>Hopefully things will run smoothly while I'm away. Go easy on Mr.
>Frederick, please... he's doing this as a favor to all of us and I'm sure
>he'd appreciate every break you can give him.

Awwww! It's more fun teasing Mike...

>
>Leaving for the airport in 14 hours! See some of you there...
>
>Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

ENJOY!


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 17:04:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: 83 H/O.4-SALE, MORE INFO PLEASE

>>well i know a little more about the 83 h/o. its 4-sale from the orig owner,
orig block, heads, carb rebuilt. only mech prob is it needs rear brakes, just
shoes (to me, no big deal personaly)
>> has orig paint, will need a new paint job to look sharp. no rips in seats
needs headliner b-hind t-tops///////     needs i piece of rear wing, dvr side
edge
>>>p/d-lck switches dull, he is asking $5,000 4 it. rims nice, tires ok
exhaust good.
>he has all receipts from any work done on it since new
 THANX IN ADVANCE 4 THE HELP!!!!        BERNIE-----RCKTPWR@AOL.COM

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 17:23:09 -0400
From: Charles Sullivan <temair@erols.com>
Subject: RE: Fuel Pump replacement

Thanks for the response, Greg.

A final question on the bracket you mention. There are two brackets by the 
front of the compressor:

- - One runs along the bottom more or less parallel to the ground and is 
black and about a foot long.
- - The other bolts to the top corner of the compressor, then runs diagonally 
down and bolts to the engine in a couple of places.  This one is heavier, 
slightly triangular, and is stamped with numbers.

Removing this second bracket would solve my problem I think.  But I started 
taking out these impressive 3 inch bolts and got worried that it was 
involved in holding up the engine, so I put them back.  Can I take this 
second bracket out without undo calamity?

Many thanks again,

Charles Sullivan
'72 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 17:45:42 -0400
From: Charles Sullivan <temair@erols.com>
Subject: RE: Fuel Pump replacement

I was able to easily remove the fuel pump after first removing the lower 
black bracket.  This seems safer then messing with that big one, so I'm 
doubly glad besides feeling a bit sheepish.

One nice thing about the list for beginners like me is the psychological 
safety net factor the presence of so many knowledgeable people.  The 
hardest thing sometimes is just summoning the courage to get in there with 
a wrench.

Many thanks to Greg and to the rest of you who have also helped me in the 
past as I've read the messages back and forth.

Charles Sullivan
'72 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 17:42:50 -0400
From: "MROTHE" <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: FOR ANYONE GOING TO LANSING!!!!!

Sorry, I'm seeming to spam the Olds list!!!!   But this message is for
EVERYONE that is going to Lansing.  Once there, if you can make a mental
note, no, wait, a written note to yourselves to check on any available 69
H/O Fire Frost Gold paint formulas for me.  I realize a mental note would
get washed away once you get there and start drooling over all the nice
Oldses.  I would appreciate it very much if someone would do this out of
the kindness of their hearts for someone who is not as fortunate to go to
the greatest Olds show on Earth.  In essence, if there is a character
called "Doc" Watson there, and you get a chance to talk with him about the
69 H/Os......................

Thanks in advance, and have FUN!!!!  I'm so ENVIOUS!!!!!!!!!!!!!  BOO
HOO!!!!

Mike Rothe, at work, as usual.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 16:52:58 -0500
From: Adam <x2badx@wwa.com>
Subject: [none]

subscribe oldsmobile x2badx@wwa.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 16:59:57 -0500
From: Adam <x2badx@wwa.com>
Subject: GuageHelp

I would first like to say thank you to all the oldmobile owners who have
helped me in the past.  I went to a few junkyards today and a bought a
few items.  I have a 1985 Cutlass Supreme Brogham 307,  with idoit
lights.  I found ONE out of all 17 olds cutlasses there had the ralyee
guage package,  But i looked at the  tach and it WASNT zeroed.  it read
1500 rpm, the gas and voltage guages were also NOT zeroed.  I am about
to take my dash apart right now I would like to know are these guages
DEAD? Even if there not tottaly accurate I would still rather have them
then the stupid idoit lights.  Please let me know...
Thanks,
Adam


85 Cutlass Supreme Brogham 307cu 
83 Ninety-Eight Royale 307cu
76 Ninety-Eight 455cu
72 Delta 88 Conv. 350cu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 17:15:20 -0500
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Subject: Re: GuageHelp

>But i looked at the  tach and it WASNT zeroed.  it read
>1500 rpm, the gas and voltage guages were also NOT zeroed.  I am about
>to take my dash apart right now I would like to know are these guages
>DEAD?

No, they sound fine. The needles tend to float a little bit when
power is turned off. In particular, the tach tends to stay wherever
it was, but even when pegged at zero, it'll float back up after the
ignition is switched off.

Having said that... you're going to have some wiring harness work to
do; this is not just a plug-in swap. You need to relocate some wires
in the connectors behind the gauge cluster (and of course change your
idiot-light switches to sending units). Someone else here had the
diagram available; hopefully they aren't already heading for Lansing.

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 17:32:15 -0500
From: "Charles F. Kemp" <bloom@gorilla.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump replacement

At 01:10 PM 8/18/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Greetings to all.  My name is Charles Sullivan, and I have a humble 1972 
>Cutlass, 2 bbl 350 4 door.  
>
>
>
>  The pump seems boxed in and I can't 
>figure out how to get it out.  The lower radiator hose is to one side, but 
>I'm not sure removing that would help.  Perhaps it's simple, but I'm not 
>anxious to break anything or accidentally unmount the engine while trying 
>to get it out.  I have a 1973 Service Manual that someone gave me that's 
>usually good enough for my car, and Chiltons, but unfortunately both are of 
>the "(1) remove old fuel pump (2) install new fuel pump" variety on this 
>matter.
>
>
>
>Many thanks in advance,
>Charles
>
Charles,
  I used to have a similar '72 that was a great car.I also had to replace the 
fuel pump.If I remember correctly, I had to unbolt the A\C compressor to  make 
room to pump.As long as you don't get too rough with compressor you won't do
any damage to the hoses.On my '67 Olds the compressor position isn't quite so
bad, but the fuel pump is still a pain to re-install.
Fred Kemp

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #806
********************************

