To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #886


oldsmobile-digest       Sunday, October 5 1997       Volume 01 : Number 886



Re: 1972 Cutlass Supreme
Re: 1972 Cutlass Supreme
Re: Brake Lights
Re: Getting off of this list
Re: Dipstick Tube Installation
Re: 1972 Cutlass Supreme
an afternoon in the sun
Re: WHEELS: 50 Olds
Re: trunk lid
Re: trunk lid
Saw your Vista-Cruiser?
Re: Hot Starting Problems
Re: 1972 Cutlass Supreme
Re: Seat Belt Torx Head Bolts -- Size?
Re: Getting off of this list
Re: Paint for accessory brackets?
Re: Paint for accessory brackets?
Re: Shift indicator question
Re: ROAD TRIP
Re: 1972 Cutlass Supreme
Re: 1972 Cutlass Supreme
Re: Fall Carlise
Re: Paint for accessory brackets?
Bumper Question
Sun Visors
Re: Bumper Question
Re: 1972 Cutlass Supreme
Re: FS '70 Rallye 350 4-Speed
Re: engine belt tension?
Re: Dipstick Tube Installation
Re: Hot Starting Problems
Re: engine belt tension?
Re: trunk lid
Re: Carb jet size; w-31 ??
Re: C smog heads
Re: rear view
Re: 1972 Cutlass Supreme
50 wheels
Re: 3 Motors & Racin'...
Re: Junkyard '78 Delta Royale
Re: FS; 68 cutlass,442 frt. bumper
66 olds
Re: Seat Belt Torx Head Bolts -- Size?
Re: Hot Starting Problems
Re: 66 olds
Re: Junkyard '78 Delta Royale
Re: 1972 Cutlass Supreme
Re: Hot Starting Problems
Re: FS; 68 cutlass,442 frt. bumper
Re: 1972 Cutlass Supreme
Re: engine belt tension?
Re: Bumper Question
Re: Dipstick Tube Installation
Re: Bumper Question
Re: C smog heads
Re: trunk lid
My saturday at the drags
Re: Hot Starting Problems
Re: FS; 68 cutlass,442 frt. bumper
Re: W Machine Pole
Re: Audio Speaker
Re: FW: Frame off
trunk lid

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 22:10:54 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: 1972 Cutlass Supreme

I'd say a '72 Supreme equipped like that has *got* to be worth $1900 if
it's in any kind of shape at all. The 455, buckets, console, etc., all
add to its value. A few months ago we all went ga-ga here over a '72 that
was for sale... a N.C. car, so it had virtually no rust anywhere, very
solid, but needed a lot. Interior was mostly shot, and it was a cloth
bench/column shift car, so it wasn't nearly as nice to have IMHO. Plus it
had a 350, not a 455. The price: $3900 Cdn, about $2500 or so US. We
thought it was worth it.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 97 21:15:07 -0500
From: Mike Hall <oldsmike@flash.net>
Subject: Re: 1972 Cutlass Supreme

Tom Williams writes:
>     I am just interested in getting opinions on what any or everyone
>thinks would be a fair price on a 72 Cutlass Supreme.
- -snip-
>The asking price is $1900.00,
- -snip-

Tom,

Sounds like a pretty good price to me, are you going to get it?


Michael R. Hall: OCA ª17903                    Ortonville, Michigan
Home E-Mail: oldsmike@flash.net
The Ever-Growing Oldsmobile Stable:
1971 Oldsmobile 442
1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
1987 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Custom Cruiser
1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 20:58:37 -0400
From: gbro@juno.com (Glenn B Brobeck)
Subject: Re: Brake Lights

I Know the 66 steering column is a loner, because "believe it or not "
the 67 and 68's are the same

BRO

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 21:21:04 -0700
From: "David, Terri and Rob" <hoagie@emeraldis.com>
Subject: Re: Getting off of this list

Tracey Cleeton wrote:
>
> AMEN!!
>  ----
> From: Terry & Tammy <dawgs@conninc.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Date: Friday, October 03, 1997 8:50 PM
> Subject: Re: Getting off of this list
>
> Is this not and OLDS list? then why are we wasting time talking about a
> guy that got off the list? He can't see it. Is it to amuse ourselves?
>
> Terry Teague
> 68 Delta Custom
>
>     ---------------------------------------------------------------
>
> AMEN!!
>
> ----
> From: Terry & Tammy <dawgs@conninc.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Date: Friday, October 03, 1997 8:50 PM
> Subject: Re: Getting off of this list
>
> Is this not and OLDS list? then why are we wasting time talking about
> a
> guy that got off the list? He can't see it. Is it to amuse ourselves?
>
> Terry Teague
> 68 Delta Customyes...I find it quite entertaining that this guy got his
panties in a wad over us bashing another inferior brand automobile...I admit I
do ahve the mentality of a 15 year old kid...hence the selection of big boyz
toyz...so...I find it QUITE entertaining...but then again..IT DOESN'T TAKE
MUCH!!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 21:23:19 -0700
From: "David, Terri and Rob" <hoagie@emeraldis.com>
Subject: Re: Dipstick Tube Installation

Lloyd Ferguson wrote:
>
> My car, a '69 Cutlass 350 came without a dipstick or tube.  I have ordered
> one and it is sitting on my desk.  I am wondering if there are any tricks
> or things to watch out for when installing this?
>
> Do I have to loosen the oil pan and if so will I have to remove it
> completely to replace the gasket?
>
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Lloyd Ferguson
> cutlass69@usa.netI hope to hell the old 1 is NOT broke off in the hole..if it
is...HAVE FUN...otherwise..all you have to do is inert the tube in the hole and
 press it in...it may be a lil tight...but if you twist is as you insert it it
should ease right in...Hoagie

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 21:31:01 -0700
From: "David, Terri and Rob" <hoagie@emeraldis.com>
Subject: Re: 1972 Cutlass Supreme

Tom Williams wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>      I am just interested in getting opinions on what any or everyone
> thinks would be a fair price on a 72 Cutlass Supreme. There is a 1972
> Cutlass Supreme for sale here in a local paper descripton is Automatic
> Power Steering, Power Brakes, Cruise Control, Power Windows, Bucket
> Seats, Center Console, Air, Numbers Matching 455, 3:23 Posi, Rally-pac
> Guage cluster, very straight and rust only in the passenger side fender
> but very little rust. The asking price is $1900.00, I felt this was a
> very fair price but the car is located about 90 miles from here so I
> have not had a chance to go look at it yet. He is taking it to a swap
> meet tommorow so I do not know if I will get there before he sells it if
> he does sell it there. Thanks for any answers on the price.
>
> Thanks
> Tom Williams
> 1970 W-31sounds like an EXCELLENT deal to me...that rally gauge cluster is a
RARE BIRD indeeed...if you look at many cutlasses you will realize that...is
that sports console a W-36....HIZ-N-HERZ Dualgate....thats worth some money
too.....sounds like a good deal if the quarters are healthy...and the lips are
in good shape...being in the south the cars are less likely to have a problem
with rust...but god the INTERIORS...Hoagie

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 21:42:32 -0700
From: "David, Terri and Rob" <hoagie@emeraldis.com>
Subject: an afternoon in the sun

ahhhhhhhhhhh...nothing like a beautiful southern afternoon mid
80's not a cloud in the sky......with the top down...the big block
purring under the hood..the pipes rattling in the background....my
family along for the ride......nothing like it in the world...could
anything touch that picture...took my SX out to 2 car shows today....met
a guy with a nice 70 W-30 hardtop we had a conversation about him
getting on the listserver...he lives close by to me here...I hope to see
him on here soon...his car was right.....4 speed console..all the W-30
goodies...power locks was the only option I saw...viking blue with a
white interior and white stripes..he said he just bought the car 3 weeks
ago...I saw a copy of Year One's latest catalog and low and behold...my
W-30 convertible was on the cover...LIFE IS GOOD...what a good
day....:)...Hoagie

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 22:20:25 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: WHEELS: 50 Olds

BigEJ@aol.com wrote:
>
> Hope someone on this list has some advice here.  My 50 is presently running
> radials on the original rims.  A combination much better than bias plys on
> those rims!  Anyone who has driven a 50s car with bias ply tires will agree,
> I'm sure!!

Yep, ran these on my '52.  Drove much better, but the damn hubcaps kept
flying off!!!

> However I'm not happy with this combination because the wheels flex and they
> are not designed for tubeless tires.

See above comment...  been there, done that.

> Here's the question; Does any one know
> what late model 15" steel wheels will will fit this car so I can run radials
> and the original full wheel discs??   I would like to keep the car as close
> to original as possible, but it's a driver more than a show car.

OK, when I put the radials on my '52, I did them one wheel at a time.  I
couldn't tie up the jack and floor stands over the course of a week, so
I took one of the tires from my '83 Regency and put it on the '52 so it
could stand on all four, and ran my Regency on it's donut.  So you need
rims from a full size Olds, at least an '83, but I don't know what other
years these were used.

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

If you throw a cat out a car window, does it become kitty litter?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 22:52:34 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: trunk lid

David, Terri and Rob wrote:
>
> dave wrote:
> >
> > I have a 71 c/s convertible
> > Will a 70 hardtop trunk lid fit on my car?yes..if its off a cutlass supreme
body style....not the F-85..which is > the 442 hardtop style...all convertibles
are basically the supreme body > style....Hoagie

Ummmm.  Don't want to step on your toes here, and I may end up with my
foot in my mouth, but I don't think this is right.  Aren't the upper
corners on the hardtop lid square and the convertible ones are rounded
off?  Have had two Supreme hardtops, '71 and '72, but don't remember
what the lids looked like.  The corners on my convertible are rounded.

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

If you throw a cat out a car window, does it become kitty litter?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 22:54:37 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: trunk lid

At 09:00 AM 10/4/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I have a 71 c/s convertible
>Will a 70 hardtop trunk lid fit on my car?
>

        Nope. A convertible or 4 door trunk lid are the only ones that will 
fit.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 22:56:55 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Saw your Vista-Cruiser?

Hey all

Was at Carlisle today.  Saw a Vista-Cruiser on the way in.  From the
looks of the steering wheel it was a '72.  It was painted a dark teal
color in the painted areas and was painted silver in the woodgrain
areas.  Had a green interior and front seat was replaced by red
buckets.  Was wearing 15" wheels with '77-'79 full size hubcaps on
them.  Was parked on a lot along G Street.  Was this anybody on the
list?

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

If you throw a cat out a car window, does it become kitty litter?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 23:00:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: CRuper1@aol.com
Subject: Re: Hot Starting Problems

In a message dated 97-10-04 06:03:00 EDT, you write:

<<
Things Greg K. had tried.....
 1. New starter
 2. Newer 1000 amp battery
 3. All cables and connectors are shiny clean.
 4. Positive junction block cleaned
 5. I even by-passed the cables and used jumper cables from the battery to
the positive
    junction block and the frame. (in effect taking the car's battery cables
out of the
    loop)

  >>

Our Cavalier has an intermittent starting problem.  Seems to occur hot
(weather that is), or when the engine has fun for some time.  It looks like
it's the solenoid (have you replaced that lately???...).
Here's what it does...
When you get in the car and turn the ignition to the "on" position, the
lights come on fine, but when the key is turned all the way to the "start"
position, it does nothing...  You get no starter whine, or solenoid "click".

Here's why I've figured it's the solenoid:

It's only seemed to have probems when it's warm, and the engine's been run
for some time.  Lately it's gotten worse...  I can get it to run by jumping
the direct line from the battery to the solenoid "S" side (from ignition
which "activates" the solenoid).  After this, I can go in and use the key to
start the car as should be.  I've figured when it's hot, it must get stuck,
or something, and it doesn't want to go, but all the juice DIRECT from the
Batt. is enough to make it move (whether it wants to, or not...).

Anybody else think I won't have the problem fixed tom., after replacing the
solenoid?...
Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 22:01:27 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: 1972 Cutlass Supreme

Cut him off at the pass, then grab that puppy and run!

> Date sent:      Sat, 04 Oct 1997 21:31:01 -0700
> From:           "David, Terri and Rob" <hoagie@emeraldis.com>
> To:             oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:        Re: 1972 Cutlass Supreme
> Send reply to:  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

> Tom Williams wrote:
> >
> > Hi All,
> >      I am just interested in getting opinions on what any or everyone
> > thinks would be a fair price on a 72 Cutlass Supreme. There is a 1972
> > Cutlass Supreme for sale here in a local paper descripton is Automatic
> > Power Steering, Power Brakes, Cruise Control, Power Windows, Bucket
> > Seats, Center Console, Air, Numbers Matching 455, 3:23 Posi, Rally-pac
> > Guage cluster, very straight and rust only in the passenger side fender
> > but very little rust. The asking price is $1900.00, I felt this was a
> > very fair price but the car is located about 90 miles from here so I
> > have not had a chance to go look at it yet. He is taking it to a swap
> > meet tommorow so I do not know if I will get there before he sells it if
> > he does sell it there. Thanks for any answers on the price.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Tom Williams
> > 1970 W-31sounds like an EXCELLENT deal to me...that rally gauge cluster is 
a
RARE > BIRD indeeed...if you look at many cutlasses you will realize that...is 
>
that sports console a W-36....HIZ-N-HERZ Dualgate....thats worth some > money
too.....sounds like a good deal if the quarters are healthy...and > the lips
are in good shape...being in the south the cars are less likely > to have a
problem with rust...but god the INTERIORS...Hoagie > -
------------------------------------------------------- Mike Krumwiede - MIS
Technician Highland Community College Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us -
------------------------------------------------------- "Every man dies...not
every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 22:08:25 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: Seat Belt Torx Head Bolts -- Size?

> > Does anyone know offhand what size Torx socket (is that the right
> > term?
> > Driver maybe?) I need to remove the seat belt attaching bolts on the
> > '78
> > Delta? I looked at one store and the biggest they carried was a T-50.
> > Not
> > sure if it is big enough.
> >
>
> I believe the T-50 will get most of 'em.  I've seen some T-45's work,
> too.  Not sure which is correct, though.

I did that on my 78 Delta, serious pain in the ass, soak them with
some penatrating oil or WD-40 for at least an hour, then try it with
a 1/2 drive or breaker bar, carefull not to strip it out though. It's
been 2 years since I did it, but the T-50 sounds right.

- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 10:09:58 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: Getting off of this list

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

 I'm amused.



Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama




AMEN!!

- ----
From: Terry & Tammy <dawgs@conninc.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Date: Friday, October 03, 1997 8:50 PM
Subject: Re: Getting off of this list

Is this not and OLDS list? then why are we wasting time talking about a
guy that got off the list? He can't see it. Is it to amuse ourselves?

Terry Teague
68 Delta Custom


- ------=_NextPart_000_0003_01BCD0AD.ABD7D6A0
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charset="us-ascii"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML =
3.2//EN"><HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1008.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3Dªffffff>
<P><FONT color=3Dª000000 face=3D"Lucida Calligraphy" =
size=3D2><I>&nbsp;I'm=20
amused.</I></FONT></P>
<P><FONT color=3Dª000000 face=3D"Lucida Calligraphy" =
size=3D2><I></I></FONT>&nbsp;
<P><FONT color=3Dª000000 face=3D"Lucida Calligraphy" size=3D2><I>Bill =
Culp<BR>Decatur,=20
Alabama</I></FONT>
<P><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><BR>&nbsp;</P></FONT><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2>
<P><FONT size=3D+0>AMEN!!</FONT></P>----<BR><B>From: </B>Terry &amp; =
Tammy=20
&lt;dawgs@conninc.com&gt;<BR><B>To: =
</B>oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca<BR><B>Date:=20
</B>Friday, October 03, 1997 8:50 PM<BR><B>Subject: </B>Re: Getting off =
of this=20
list<BR><BR><HTML><BODY><FONT size=3D2>Is this not and OLDS list? then =
why are we=20
wasting time talking about a<BR>guy that got off the list? He can't see =
it. Is=20
it to amuse ourselves?<BR><BR>Terry Teague<BR>68 Delta=20
Custom<BR></FONT></FONT></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 22:12:41 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: Paint for accessory brackets?

For my engine detaling, (on brackets and exterior bolts, ect) I just
used two coats of Rustoleum and a spray clear coat to keep em shiny,
been two years, just have to wipe em clean now and then.

1975 Olds 98 Regency 455 4bbl
1978 Olds Delta 88 Royale 350 4bbl
1977 Olds Cutlass Supreme 350 4bbl

> > Just wondering what you guys, (and Lisa), use to paint accessory
> > brackets like the alt., A/C etc.?  (black)
> >
> > Do you have to use hi-temp. paint, or will "satin Rust-o-leum" hold-up?
>
> RC, you can use whatever you want for those brackets, doesn't have to be
> hi-temp paint. I've used Krylon, Tremclad, Rustoleum, Plasti-Kote, etc.
>
> Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
>
>
>
- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 22:14:03 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: Paint for accessory brackets?

You would definatly want to use a higher temp paint for exhaust
manifolds, exhaust brackets, and engine bolts, ect though, sorry,
forgot to mention that last message.


> On Sat, 4 Oct 1997 mrhell@m1.sprynet.com wrote:
> > Just wondering what you guys, (and Lisa), use to paint accessory
> > brackets like the alt., A/C etc.?  (black)
> >
> > Do you have to use hi-temp. paint, or will "satin Rust-o-leum" hold-up?
>
> RC, you can use whatever you want for those brackets, doesn't have to be
> hi-temp paint. I've used Krylon, Tremclad, Rustoleum, Plasti-Kote, etc.
>
> Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
>
>
>
- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 00:20:05 -0300
From: "Robert J. Lavey" <rjlavey@rmci.net>
Subject: Re: Shift indicator question

Hi Steven,

At 08:36 PM 10/4/97 -0400, you wrote:
>change the speedo, dont need the indicator on floor shifter modle. if you
>need one let me know i have one.  steven.  w30442cs@aol.com
>

Thanks.  I wouldn't think Olds would have 2 shift indicators, but the
picture in the book through me.

I have a floor shifter speedo (from scrounging parts for my 4-speed car),
but if you run across a shifter or console (or both) for a '68 let me know.

Bob
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Robert J. Lavey                         email: rjlavey@rmci.net
 13243 W. Dahlia Dr.                     Home:  (208) 939-5418
 Boise, ID  83713-1302                   Fax:   (208) 939-5452
- -----------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 10:19:22 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: ROAD TRIP

Clarence,

 I see that you have an '86 Olds.  I wouldn't try that in a '68 442 or a '67
Toronado unless you wanted your credit card to look like a math book at the
end of the month.

 Congratulations on the trip.  I have been that route before & it is nice.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama




>Hello every one.  Just got back from a long road trip in the OLDS.
>
>We left San Antonio Wedsneday and drove down I-10 to Ocean Springs Ms.
>(parents house) and stayed the night.  Then drove from there east on I-10
to
>Mobile AL.,
>Then took I-65 north to Nashville, TN.  Then took I-24 to Fort Cambell, KY.
>Daughter in Army their. Stayed the night.  Then Friday morning left there
>went down HWY 79 , beautiful drive thru hills and small towns to hwy 22
then
>went south on 22 to I-40.  Took I-40 to Little Rock AR.  Then took I-30 to
>Dallas,Tx.
>Followed by I-35 south back home.  I know this may sound dull, but my point
>is the OLDS is still a great car to make road trips in, @25.7mpg It was a
>low cost trip also. Not a single problem on the 23 or 2400 mile trip.
>
>OLDS MAKE GREAT ROAD CARS ALSO.  Enjoyable trip.
>
>
>Clarence
>'86 OLDS Cutlass 4DR 307
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 22:34:14 -0500
From: Tom Williams <tjwilli@Megavision.com>
Subject: Re: 1972 Cutlass Supreme

Hi All,
   Thanks for the responses on the 1972 Cutlass Supreme. I would like to
get it bought but it all depends if I can find him at the swap meet
tommorow before anyone else does who "might" be interested. As is almost
always the case if you are not interested in Ch*vy parts at a swap meet
you may actually have a chance at buying a car like the 72 Olds. I was
very interested in the car mainly because of all the options, rare to
see a 72 Supreme loaded with that many options. If anybody knows where I
can find a wedding band to fit the car let me know because when or if I
bring this one home I think I will be sleeping with it out in the garage
according to my wife.

Thanks
Tom Williams
70 W-31

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 23:08:56 -0700
From: "Forrest Johnson" <johnson@edisongroup.com>
Subject: Re: 1972 Cutlass Supreme

> If anybody knows where I
> can find a wedding band to fit the car let me know because when or if I
> bring this one home I think I will be sleeping with it out in the garage
> according to my wife.
>
> Thanks
> Tom Williams
> 70 W-31

yes, I have a couple of spare bands I am not currently using.
They fit nicely around the hood and add that special touch.  :)

Don't worry, an Olds is not that bad of a place to sleep, although
it does still rank second behind the bedroom with the wife ;)

Forrest

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 21:07:18 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Fall Carlise

The bumper is in good condition.  There is a couple of small scrapes - one
that stubbornly retains a bit of yellow paint, but no dents.  Seemed
straight on the car (altho I don't think I've ever seen one that looks
right in the middle - they seem too high or something to me).
The pass side turn lense is gone but the driver is still there.

I'm asking $100 including shipping.


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 97 0:18:25 EDT
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: Paint for accessory brackets?

At 10:42 AM 10/4/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Just wondering what you guys, (and Lisa), use to paint accessory
>brackets like the alt., A/C etc.?  (black)
>
>Do you have to use hi-temp. paint, or will "satin Rust-o-leum" hold-up?
>
>RC Hellebuyck
>1971 4-4-2 covt.
>
  Satin Rustoleum works just fine.  You don't need a high-temp paint here.
The Rustoleum seems to stand up to some pretty brutal conditions.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 23:23:46 -0500
From: JR <joertexas@earthlink.net>
Subject: Bumper Question

I was wondering if rust holes can be repaired in a bumper. The one on my
car is about 4 inches long and 1/2 in wide. The metal is solid all
around it. Also, could such a repair cause a problem when the bumper is
rechromed?

JR
72 Cutlass S

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 23:24:57 -0500
From: JR <joertexas@earthlink.net>
Subject: Sun Visors

I'm looking for a servicealbe pair of black sun visors for a 72 Cutlass
S hardtop.

JR

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 00:37:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: ROKMORT@aol.com
Subject: Re: Bumper Question

  JR,

  From Texas, even!!!  yes bumper rot can be repaired and rechromed just like
any
part, even easier, 'cause its thicker.  just do a good job of grinding the
weld and sand all the way down to bout 1000 grit...

Michael J. Morton

58 Olds Special 88

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 00:41:38 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: 1972 Cutlass Supreme

If anybody knows where I
> can find a wedding band to fit the car let me know because when or if I
> bring this one home I think I will be sleeping with it out in the garage
> according to my wife.
>
> Thanks
> Tom Williams
> 70 W-31

Tom,

Worse things could happen to you.  Besides she will probably forgive you
after you do a restoration and it looks better and runs better than your
daily drivers.  My wife always complains about the latest car I buy
until she drives it.  Then I can't get her can out of it.

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, Ky

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 00:42:46 -0700
From: Larry <dilligaf@tl.infi.net>
Subject: Re: FS '70 Rallye 350 4-Speed

I saw an ad for a Rallye 350 today too.  It read as follows:

70 Olds Rallye 350, Sebring yellow w/blk int, bkts, at, ps, pb, ac,
tilt, p/seat, fact tach, fact am/fm 8-track, r/spoiler, California car,
new PA insp, less than 2500 produced, $8,995, Brian Kauffmans Autorama,
717-764-6620, York.

All I know about this car is what I read in the ad.  I thought I would
post it in case anyone was interested.

Larry

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 97 0:53:27 EDT
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: engine belt tension?

At 10:39 AM 10/4/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Just put a new set of GM belts on my 71 4-4-2.  How do you gauge the
>correct tension? (there tight believe me).  I remember in high school
>auto shop, we had a belt tension gauge.  It was box-shaped and had a
>handle on it, with a place to insert the belt.  This was suppose to
>register tension.

    The easiest belt tensioning method is to use the index finger to deflect
the belt at the center of the longest run between pulleys 1/2".  This is
done by applying pressure with one finger just before the point of
straining.  It's a feel type thing but I'm sure you get the idea.
Over-tightening belts not only wears them prematurely but puts undo stress
on bearings.

>  Also, where do you
>"pry" to tighten-up the power steering belt?  I used a small block of
>wood and pried on the P/S fluid tank.  This works, but it makes me
>nervous!!!

    That is the easiest and most often used way to do it.   Using a block of
wood or any  other solid but giving material works well.  By applying
pressure against the tank won't hurt it as long as you disperse or spread
the pressure exerted against it over  a 1" square area of the tank to accept
the load.  So a small piece of wood used with a bar for leverage works just
fine.


  Glenn
  '69 4-4-2


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 04:48:46 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Dipstick Tube Installation

>My car, a '69 Cutlass 350 came without a dipstick or tube.  I have ordered
>one and it is sitting on my desk.  I am wondering if there are any tricks
>or things to watch out for when installing this?

OK, the big question you have to answer is "Is the dipstick really
completely missing, or is it just broken off in the block?"

If the old one was removed, and is completely missing, then it's an easy job
to tap in the new one. I tried using vise-grips near the base, loosely
holding the tube, until I discovered the trick of using a larger bolt with a
built-in washer (something from my body panels screw bin), which I used to
tap it right in.

If, however, the old stub of the dipstick tube is still in the block, it's a
bit harder. You'll have to screw in a coarse-thread bolt whose outside
diameter is just bigger than the inside diameter of the broken-off tube, and
use a pair of vise-grips to yank it or hammer it out of there. You might
also be able to use a sliding-type dent puller with the right screw. To get
at this, you'll have to remove the exhaust manifold on that side (avoid
breaking off the exhaust manifold bolts; that's an even worse job), the
crossover tube, and maybe some other things that get in the way (steering
shaft, starter, etc.).

>Do I have to loosen the oil pan and if so will I have to remove it
>completely to replace the gasket?

If all else fails, you can jack up the engine, remove the oil pan, and tap
out the tube from inside the crankcase. Basically, if the old tube is broken
off in the block, I don't envy you...
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 04:48:48 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Hot Starting Problems

>I'm pretty confident that I burned out the new alternator!!! AND I'm pretty
sure the
>voltage regulator is toast too. No biggie though. I returned the alternator
as defective
>and picked up a new voltage regulator.

heh... did you do this at the same place? And they didn't catch on to the
cause of the failed alternator?

>I understand that the new voltage regulator is pre-set. Is that true? Is
there anything I

The replacement is likely a solid-state unit, so yes, no adjustment.

>should know or do beyond a simple change out on this stuff before I burn up
another
>perfectly good alternator and wreck a new voltage regulator??

Well, only that on the instructions for the last voltage regulator that I
got, it warned that a faulty regulator can damage a replacement alternator...
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 04:48:40 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: engine belt tension?

>What the cheapest, best way to judge belt tension?   Also, where do you
>"pry" to tighten-up the power steering belt?  I used a small block of
>wood and pried on the P/S fluid tank.  This works, but it makes me

I just found the factory recommended procedure in the shop manual the other
day, when I had to tighten my PS belt. You don't want to pry on the
resevoir, as that is only sheetmetal, and you can deform or collapse it,
even if you distribute the load. You want to pry against the pump snout,
right behind the pulley. The factory provides a tab on the PS bracket just
inward (toward the crank) of that snout; you put a thin pry bar or a heavy
scredriver down in there, and pry outward.

And while there is a tension guage designed for checking proper belt
tension, I've been going by feel for a couple years now. Usually, you don't
want the belt flapping around, so if it does that, tighten it some more. One
other guide is how much you can twist the belt around; if you can twist it
more than a 1/4" turn, it's probably too loose. That's not very scientific,
though, is it? Sorry I can't be of more help on that point.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 04:48:37 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: trunk lid

>I have a 71 c/s convertible
>Will a 70 hardtop trunk lid fit on my car?

No, the hardtop has 90' corners, while the convertible's lid has rounded
corners.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 04:48:42 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Carb jet size; w-31 ??

>does anyone know jet size of 70 w-31 carb.  did L-74 motors use same ?

That's something you'll find in the FAQ; here's an excerpt from that:
*******

Year and Application(1)Carb ªMain Jet(2)Primary Rod(3)Secondary Rod(4)

1970-
350704025070319707040701- "52C"7033658- "AT"
455704025170319707034849- "49B"7033655- "AU"
455 Toro704025270319707040701- "52C"7033655- "AU"
350 W-31 (6)70402557002657   -          7033655- "AU"
455 "442"704025370319697040699- "48C"7033655- "AU"
455 W-30 M.T. (6)70402567002658   -          7033655- "AU"
455 W-30 A.T.704025870319697040701- "52C"7033655- "AU"
455 W-33704025770319697040701- "52C"7033655- "AU"
...
(2) The last two digits of the part number designate the size of the jet
orifice in thousands of an inch; thus, a jet with the part ª of 7031971, has
an orifice of .071", and is stamped with a "71".

(3) The last two digits of the part number *usually* designate the size of
the largest portion of the tapered shank of the rod in thousands of an inch;
Thus a primary rod with the part ª of 7031844 has a taper of .044" at its
largest point. This two-digit number is also stamped on the rod. After 1968,
the metering rods had a double or triple taper, and had a "B" or a "C"
suffix stamped on the rod, respectively. These triple-taper rods, however,
do not have a part ª corresponding to the size of the taper, although the
stamped number on the rod does correspond to its diameter.

(4) The secondary metering rods are stamped with a two-letter code. A guide
to the comparative dimensions of these rods can be found on pp. 152-153 of
Doug Roe's "Rochester Carburetors".
...
(6) Note that the W-31 and W-30 carburetors used 2-bbl jets with NO primary
metering rod, and thus no power piston.

***********

So the W-31 used a "57" jet, which was much smaller than the "70" jet used
by the L-74; since there was no primary metering rod in there, however, it
likely flowed more fuel. The earlier W-31 carbs did indeed use primary
metering rods, though, with more normal-sized jets.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 04:48:51 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: C smog heads

>My '67 CS has a 400-2V engine with C heads with smog fittings. The car
>otherwise has dual exhausts and is an enjoyable cruiser, and I've got a 4V
>manifold I'd like to install.

Sounds like a nice car with that "turnpike cruiser" option; don't see too
many of those around. You'll enjoy it even more with that 4-bbl installed
(just save the original parts for posterity's sake).

>My question is this: Can these heads be modified to run without the
>smog fittings? Does anybody have any experience with these heads?
>Of course am also planning to do away with smog pump etc..which car now still
>has.

Those holes should be a NPT fitting, so any pipe-thread plugs that size
should replace the connections. Again, save that emissions setup, in case
you sell it and the buyer wants to restore it to its original state. I'd
hate to imagine how hard it will be to find an original smog setup for a car
like this...
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 04:48:53 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: rear view

>I want to install a new rear view mirror with a map light
>i think i found a plug for it near the emergency brake. Is this
>the right one? I also am trying to replace the bulb inside,

I pulled this setup out of a VC, and indeed I believe the light did go all
the way down the A-pillar to behind the kick-panel on that side. A factory
wiring diagram would be helpful here; what car would this be going in? OK,
wait, I looked this up in the "Accessories" section of the factory manual,
and it shows the connector "at the fuse box". Really, though, hook it up
where you want, probably best to a switched 12V output on the fuse box.

>right now it seems that i have to pull the new bulb end
>out further so it will fit. It is also hard to get back in. Does
>the mirror itself come apart?

No, the mirror doesn't. I did this a bit back for my Toro, and I believe
that the bulb is kind of "suspended" between two contacts, which grab the
wire "loops" on either end of the bulb. Somehow, I remember this seeming
impossible until I happened upon the correct solution, at which point it was
very simple. I think I pried one end of the bulb toward the other end, and
it kind of dropped off the little clip.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 04:48:56 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: 1972 Cutlass Supreme

>     I am just interested in getting opinions on what any or everyone
>thinks would be a fair price on a 72 Cutlass Supreme. There is a 1972
>Cutlass Supreme for sale here in a local paper descripton is Automatic
>Power Steering, Power Brakes, Cruise Control, Power Windows, Bucket
>Seats, Center Console, Air, Numbers Matching 455, 3:23 Posi, Rally-pac
>Guage cluster, very straight and rust only in the passenger side fender
>but very little rust. The asking price is $1900.00, I felt this was a

For a loaded CS, that is an *excellent* price! If they produced an SX for
1972, that car would be it. I'd buy it if I could.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 22:39:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jack Karamanos <jalkara@whidbey.net>
Subject: 50 wheels

try willamette wheel, portland or. or stockton wheel, strockton? ca.  they
can use your centers and a late model, tubeless rim that will take your
caps maybe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 01:53:55 -0400
From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Subject: Re: 3 Motors & Racin'...

At 09:02 PM 10/4/97 -0500, you wrote:
>For the curious, those three motors that were advertised a while back
>turned out to be a fairly good find. Mark Prince and I went down to
>Medina, OH to see what yours truly was getting himself into...

Nice find Mike. You should have told me you were coming down here. Medina
is 15 minuites from me. I could have showed you my junkyard full of Olds
stuff :-/
____________________________________________
Jason Labay - Quality Engineer - TRW Automotive Group
z28cfi@gwis.com  Akron, OH
95 DCM Impala SS.....14.66 @ 95.5 ; 1.917 60 ft ; 4400lbs
80 Olds 442 W-30.......15.70 @ 88.7 ; 2.200 60 ft ; 3300lbs
75 Hurst/Olds W-25 - (2)..one parts car, one resto car
85 S-10 Blazer 4x4.......work truck, 1,625 watt sound system

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 01:59:51 -0400 (EDT)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Junkyard '78 Delta Royale

In a message dated 97-10-04 03:27:28 EDT, you write:

<< A friend's '77 Custom Cruiser, despite being garaged for the
 first 14 years, still had massive non-uniform discolouration of nearly all
 the interior plastics; they were recently painted to mask the
 whitish-yellowish sections and restore uniformity.  What condition were
 the A and B pillar mouldings in?   Last week, I spotted a '79 Buick
 LeSabre at a motel just east of St. Louis with perfect light blue interior
 plastics!  It has probably stayed well away from UV rays.

 Kevin Wong  >>

Hey Kevin I think that in the late 70's Olds was using Volkswagon for
their interior parts and Buick wasn't....MAybe thats the difference...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 02:03:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: DavidB442@aol.com
Subject: Re: FS; 68 cutlass,442 frt. bumper

Hi Steve,
 Yes I would be interested. What are you asking? And where are you located?

David
Sacramento, Ca

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 06:52:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: ted rollins <trollins@rfci.net>
Subject: 66 olds

I'm Hunting a steering column for a 66 olds cutlass.If anyone in the western
part of N.C. or upper S.C. has any info about where one could be located
please let me know. I Checked all the Junk yards close around here.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 08:11:02 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Seat Belt Torx Head Bolts -- Size?

On Sat, 4 Oct 1997, Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician wrote:
> I did that on my 78 Delta, serious pain in the ass, soak them with
> some penatrating oil or WD-40 for at least an hour, then try it with
> a 1/2 drive or breaker bar, carefull not to strip it out though. It's
> been 2 years since I did it, but the T-50 sounds right.

Hmmm... I figure I need to do this to replace the B-pillar trim that
covers the seat belt reel. I was figuring on disconnecting the belt at
the floor and removing the buckle in order to get it out from the trim
piece. Am I making too much work for myself? I can't see how else to do
this. If anyone has a better idea, I'd appreciate hearing about it.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 07:56:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: AllNiteLng@aol.com
Subject: Re: Hot Starting Problems

 1.     Do you have a voltmeter to check output of your alternator? The first
thing I would check is the regulator if the battery isn't being charged, not
just change the alternator, as these "poke and hope" sirtuations can get
quite costly. Checking the output of the alternator and regulator seperately
can isolate either one as the culprit. I don't know about your particular
alternator but as for the regulator the stats are:
  For the regulator side
    A.  Air Gap---.060
    B.  Point Gap---.014
    C.  Voltage---13.5 to 14.4 v. @ 125 degrees Fahr.
  For the field relay side
    A.  Air Gap---.015
    B.  Point Gap---.030
    C.  Closing Voltage---6.3 to 8.3 v.
This info is from a '72 MOTORS Manual and is the same for all intermediate
and full size models from '65 to '71.

Get back to me with the model ª of your alternator and can give you the specs
for that too.

 2.     In the past it has been my experience that a battery will "boil" when
being charged on a battery charger so would it not be the same in the car?

  Good Luck,
                   Ed

1966 Delta '88
1980 Toronado Diesel

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 08:05:57 -0700
From: "David, Terri and Rob" <hoagie@emeraldis.com>
Subject: Re: 66 olds

ted rollins wrote:
>
> I'm Hunting a steering column for a 66 olds cutlass.If anyone in the western
> part of N.C. or upper S.C. has any info about where one could be located
> please let me know. I Checked all the Junk yards close around here.tall order
ted, I live in greenwood,S.C. close to the georgia border near Greenville,S.C.
I'll keep an eye out for a steering column for ya...1 question....buckets..or
bench...Hoagie

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 08:13:14 -0700
From: "David, Terri and Rob" <hoagie@emeraldis.com>
Subject: Re: Junkyard '78 Delta Royale

Cnvrtbl442@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 97-10-04 03:27:28 EDT, you write:
>
> << A friend's '77 Custom Cruiser, despite being garaged for the
>  first 14 years, still had massive non-uniform discolouration of nearly all
>  the interior plastics; they were recently painted to mask the
>  whitish-yellowish sections and restore uniformity.  What condition were
>  the A and B pillar mouldings in?   Last week, I spotted a '79 Buick
>  LeSabre at a motel just east of St. Louis with perfect light blue interior
>  plastics!  It has probably stayed well away from UV rays.
>
>  Kevin Wong  >>
>
> Hey Kevin I think that in the late 70's Olds was using Volkswagon for
> their interior parts and Buick wasn't....MAybe thats the difference...you
ought to see southern cars....the heat will trash a dash in 5 years...thank
gawd for garages and dash covers...but what bodies....you can't have
everything...Hoagie

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 08:30:55 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: 1972 Cutlass Supreme

I have had to sleep in my 78 Delta a few times, if you prop your feet
up on the back side windows, and use a pillow on the drivers side arm
rest in the back seat, it can be pretty comfortable. :)


- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 08:57:50 -0700
From: Greg Kalkhoff <gkalkhof@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Hot Starting Problems

AllNiteLng@aol.com wrote:

>  1.     Do you have a voltmeter to check output of your alternator? The first
> thing I would check is the regulator if the battery isn't being charged, not
> just change the alternator, as these "poke and hope" sirtuations can get
> quite costly.

Ed,

Acchhht! Both my VOM's are up north at the shop. I will go to Radio Shack this
morning before I do anything though. Yes, you are correct here. This
by-gosh-by-golly approach is getting me nowhere fast without meter readings.

> Checking the output of the alternator and regulator seperately
> can isolate either one as the culprit. I don't know about your particular
> alternator but as for the regulator the stats are:

10-4! As usual, I read the manual after I have made a major mess out of things.
I boned up on all the readings and values that should be taken/obtained.

I again have this really bad feeling that there is something else amiss here. 
It
may possibly be that 10 ohm resistor wire between the alternator and the VR.

>  2.     In the past it has been my experience that a battery will "boil" when
> being charged on a battery charger so would it not be the same in the car?

Very true, but this was just more than a boil. This baby looked like you just
dropped a piece of chicken in a deep fat fryer. I mean this battery was about
to go 'Old Faithful' on me! Plus, you could fry an egg on the aternator in
about 1 minute of starting the car.

Thanks for the values Ed. I have the rest of them in the shop manual. I
appreaciate your effort however.

Sparky
- --
Greg Kalkhoff                                        See the Sparkmobile
Toronado FAQ Administrator                     http://www.442.com/kalkhoff.html
http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/torofaqs.htm
AKA "Sparky"

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 10:11:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: FS; 68 cutlass,442 frt. bumper

price is 125$, and it is nice!, one of the straightest bumpers i have ran
accross lately.       you know how front bumpers get bent and pulled and
twisted over the years, not this one. i noticed 1 ding on pass. side up high.
 chrome is decent but needs a good polishing.   if interested please reply,
 steven.  w30442cs@aol.com                                 p.s. im in okla.,
 and shipping should not be too expendsive. sent one last week to new jersey
for 18$.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 21:30:41 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: 1972 Cutlass Supreme

 I am thinking about becoming a Muslim so as to solve this problem.
Multiple marriages are allowed in Islam - you just have to love each one
equally.  I might be able to do that.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

BTW: If you get into a drunken state & unintentionally marry a Chevy,
divorce is a simple matter also.


>> If anybody knows where I
>> can find a wedding band to fit the car let me know because when or if I
>> bring this one home I think I will be sleeping with it out in the garage
>> according to my wife.
>>
>> Thanks
>> Tom Williams
>> 70 W-31
>
>yes, I have a couple of spare bands I am not currently using.
>They fit nicely around the hood and add that special touch.  :)
>
>Don't worry, an Olds is not that bad of a place to sleep, although
>it does still rank second behind the bedroom with the wife ;)
>
>Forrest
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 10:43:57 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: engine belt tension?

Thanks to Doc and Glenn!

What I have been doing for years sounds close to "the norm".  I pry with the
stock Olds tire iron to tension belts.  I get them as tight as I can, (within
reason!).  Since the belts always stretch anyway, I find I never have to
re-tension them.  Over the last 10 years or so, only had one squealing belt
that needed to be re-tighten.

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 21:33:50 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: Bumper Question

 I have seen holes such as those made for trailer hitches repaired
routinely.  I don't see why a hole as you describe should be a problem.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama




>I was wondering if rust holes can be repaired in a bumper. The one on my
>car is about 4 inches long and 1/2 in wide. The metal is solid all
>around it. Also, could such a repair cause a problem when the bumper is
>rechromed?
>
>JR
>72 Cutlass S
>

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Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 10:49:50 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: Dipstick Tube Installation

Just a thought... if you find the old dipstick tube IS still in there what
about trying an EZ-Out.?.

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 07:36:48 -0700
From: "Mike Aldana" <maldana@digitalwave.net>
Subject: Re: Bumper Question

- -----Original Message-----
From: JR <joertexas@earthlink.net>
To: Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, October 04, 1997 10:22 PM
Subject: Bumper Question


>I was wondering if rust holes can be repaired in a bumper. The one on my
>car is about 4 inches long and 1/2 in wide. The metal is solid all
>around it. Also, could such a repair cause a problem when the bumper is
>rechromed?
>
>JR
>72 Cutlass S
>
>Jr, this is not a problem. Since i broker for a chrome shop whose specialty
are bumpers, i have done several rechromes for east coast customers with the
same problem ,or worse. Bumpers, and bumper ends can be repaired and once
replated,repairs are not even noticeable. If you need some plating,or more
info, email me to    maldana@digitalwave.net     sincerely   Mike Aldana

66 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 21:45:04 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: C smog heads

 I have used brass plugs for this & they are easily fitted, seal
excellently, & are easily removed at a later date.  This car should be ideal
for today's fuel.  Low compression w/a 4 barrel is just what the nurse
ordered - sorry Dr. Bob.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama



>
>>My question is this: Can these heads be modified to run without the
>>smog fittings? Does anybody have any experience with these heads?
>>Of course am also planning to do away with smog pump etc..which car now
still
>>has.
>
>Those holes should be a NPT fitting, so any pipe-thread plugs that size
>should replace the connections. Again, save that emissions setup, in case
>you sell it and the buyer wants to restore it to its original state. I'd
>hate to imagine how hard it will be to find an original smog setup for a
car
>like this...
>_______________________________________________________
>Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
>Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 21:46:26 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: trunk lid

 The 4 door trunk lid fits most year GM mid-sized convertibles.  Of course
you have to use the one from the correct year & make car.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama




>>I have a 71 c/s convertible
>>Will a 70 hardtop trunk lid fit on my car?
>
>No, the hardtop has 90' corners, while the convertible's lid has rounded
>corners.
>_______________________________________________________
>Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
>Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 10:56:34 -0400
From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
Subject: My saturday at the drags

Pretty disappointing.  I've never actually raced at a strip before.  Yesterday
the local Corvette club invited the Olds club to join them at a local strip,
low key, daytime, I figured this would be a good time to give it a try.
Besides I've put a significant number of performance mods on my 442 in the last
year and I was curious to see how it would run.

So, on my very first line up I take off, hit second and my tranny goes bang.  I
cross the line at a smoking 50 MPH.  The Muncie sounds like a bucket of bolts.
I managed to limp home using 3rd and 4th.  First and second lock the car up,
almost like in an auto when you put it in park when you're creeping along in
drive.  Anyway, the 2nd gear synchro has been weak/problematic for a while so I
suppose it was a matter of time.  Still, I was very disappointed--I should have
gone easy for the first several times to get a feel for things and then let it
loose.  Foolish of me.

So, now I'm faced with the prospect of acquiring a new tranny.  Any
reccomendations for rebuild shops in the Wash DC area?  Or nationally?  This
tranny has been rebuilt once, that may make it a poor candidate for another
rebuild.  Would any M-20 fit in my Olds? Lastly, what points should I look for
in a quality rebuilt 4 sp?

Todd Morris
71 442

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 11:13:33 -0400 (EDT)
From: BigEJ@aol.com
Subject: Re: Hot Starting Problems

Sparky:

It's beginning to sound as if one of your grounds is missing.  A car with an
external regulator needs excellent grounds from the battery to the engine
block, from the engine block to the body where the regulator is mounted, and
from the alternator to the engine block!  If any one of these are missing or
bad, you'll experience exactly the problems you describe.  I suspect from
your description that the ground from the engine to the body is missing or
bad.

The best way to check is the "voltage drop" method.  With a voltmeter on the
12 volt scale start by putting the positive lead on the engine block and the
negative lead on the negative post of the battery.  If you see more than 1/2
volt while the starter is being cranked your problem is there.  Use the
voltmeter to check the grounds of each componant this way and I'm sure you'll
find your problem.  Once you get used to this type of procedure you'll find
it very easy to pinpoint these problems.  You wont be fooled by cables and
connections that look good but are rotten inside.

Hope this helps

Elephant Engine Ernie

67 442
50 88

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 22:15:18 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: FS; 68 cutlass,442 frt. bumper

 Steven,

Do you have an address?  Would you consider $125; you pay the shipping to
Decatur, Alabama 35601?

Mine is bent some at a corner.  I am concerned that no matter what, a plater
would never get it really right.  Do you know that it fit a car properly?

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama




>price is 125$, and it is nice!, one of the straightest bumpers i have ran
>accross lately.       you know how front bumpers get bent and pulled and
>twisted over the years, not this one. i noticed 1 ding on pass. side up
high.
> chrome is decent but needs a good polishing.   if interested please reply,
> steven.  w30442cs@aol.com                                 p.s. im in
okla.,
> and shipping should not be too expendsive. sent one last week to new
jersey
>for 18$.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 11:24:25 -0400 (EDT)
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: W Machine Pole

  rallye 350 and several years of hurst shareing the w-45 code? maybe there
is a reason for that mike. it could be that way because the rallye was
designed by hurst, but never given credit?  after all it was originally
designed to be the 70 hurst olds. and does wear the nick name  of the
foregotten hurst.  ok ,im tooting my own horn. i have a rallye 350 and think
there great cars. so sue me ,it is an olds, and nothing beats an olds.
                     steven. w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 22:32:42 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: Audio Speaker






>In a message dated 97-10-03 18:17:44 EDT, you write:
>
><< Looking to find a 4x10 10 Ohm speaker for the front dash?
>
> Any suggestions? >>
>
>Yeah gary they were factory installs in the Concert II systems in the
>86-87 Buicks(<--lookout for bashing), and probably several other upgrade
>GM systems. Should be able to get one or a pair at a junk yard, err,
>auto recycling facility I mean, for near to next to nothing...TIM
>
That's "junque yarde".

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 22:36:18 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: FW: Frame off

 Steve,

Not to be sorry.  I copied it ot my hard list file.  Thank you.  I thought
that was part of the benefits of the list.  If I was wrong, I'll destroy
that file right away.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama




>To list members,
>  Sorry i accidently sent the entire mail to the list for removing bodies.
I
>ment to send it directly to ray bacause it was long.
>
>Sorry,
>
>Steve Dietrich
>  S/E PA.
>    71 442 W-30 Conv.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 12:15:32 -0400
From: dave <dave70ss@ici.net>
Subject: trunk lid

yeah the convertible trunk lid is rounded
the hardtop is a 90 degree angle
i suppose you could fabricate a hardtop lid by
filleting the corner to fit
i believe the cutlass S wont fit

my replacement ash tray flip up lid is too small
for my 71 c/s convertible
are there differences on the 70-72?

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª886
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