To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #862


oldsmobile-digest      Monday, September 22 1997      Volume 01 : Number 862



Re: rebuilding olds 403
Re: 67' 442 model from Lindberg
Re: UNBOUNCE: No replies to my stripping question
Info on the "Free Over 100 Sex Channels!!!>>" spammer
Re: '78 Delta - Parts Request
Olds 8.5" vs. New style 8.5" 10 bolt
[none]
Responses on Top
Re: Whats Up with the List
American?
Re: '70 Supreme Taillight lenses
Re: 67' 442 model from Lindberg
'78 miscell
Re[2]: "Baffled" (was: My 455 ª's (block ID's))
RE: Cutlass/442 Parts
Re: 1968 442 W30 Buying advice requested
Re: Fast-ratio steering box
Re: Fuel Requirements
Re: 67' AM/FM radio
Rears in Olds'
Re: 400 vs. 425 vs. 455
Re[2]: Fast-ratio steering box
RE: vacuum delta 88 '76
2 part on Dynamic 88
RE: vacuum delta 88 '76, again
Re: Delta Resto
FS: D heads
'70 98
Re: American?
RE: Eastwood stuff
Re: Olds 4-ever, chevy NEVER!!!!!!!!!
Re: '78 Delta 88 parts needed...
RE: American?
Hello
Re: American?
Drag Strip Fun (long)
Body Bushing Interchange
Re: Olds 4-ever, chevy NEVER!!!!!!!!!
UNBOUNCE: Value of '62 F-85
RE: Eastwood stuff
Re: Re[2]: "Baffled" (was: My 455 ª's (block ID's))
Re: Body Bushing Interchange
Re: thanks all for the 73 H/O feedback!
Re: 67' 442 model from Lindberg
Re: 67' AM/FM radio
0-60 Time
Re: 0-60 Time
Q? how can i improve head oiling on my '63 394 rebuild?
Re: Rears in Olds'
Re: ADMIN: Bandwidth.....question
Re: Q? how can i improve head oiling on my '63 394 rebuild?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 09:45:07 -0500
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: rebuilding olds 403

- ----------
> From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
somebody here
> might want to run these numbers through one of those dragstrip Jr. type
> programs to see what it really would do).
>
> Wouldn't be that much fun to drive a car with that engine on the street,
though.
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

Well I ran your idea for a built 403 through Drag Strip +. I didn't have my
Mondello catalog handy so I used an ASAP catalog to choose the cam. The
only on I could find with .700+ lift was a BBC grind so I used that
(probable lost 50hp ;) ). I then went through and changed the specs.
according to the programs recommendations. Here is what I got.


Car specs.

3500 lbs. car
200 lbs. driver
23 sq. feet frontal area
Engine and chassis quality excellent
experienced driver
excellent traction
28' slicks

Engine specs

403
Solid cam
326 duration
293 at .050 duration
.753 lift
straight up
racing aluminum heads with massive porting
2.11 intake
1.71 exhaust
forged 14:1 pistons
Hi-rise single plane intake
crank triggered MSD
225 gph electric fuel pump
110+ octane gas
1400 cfm dominater (raised it to 2000 I think)
Tranny specs

Th400
6900 rpm stall
10% slippage

5.27 rear gears

Weather

80 degrees
75% humidity
Barometric pressure 30

Results
60' 1.41@43 mph
1/8 mile 6.24@108.2mph
1/4 mile 9.88@134.6mph @9371rpm

Gross hp 938
Net hp 694
2.17 hp per inch

9392rpm shift point
2054 power band

Recommends 1832-2358 cfm
Header primaries 16.1"


Anybody willing to build this?

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 97 10:41 EDT
From: turley@symplex.com (Mike Turley)
Subject: Re: 67' 442 model from Lindberg

Mark,

My local hobby shop (Rider's in Ann Arbor, MI) ordered 2 for me last week.

Check out this site for model kit news.

http://people.csnet.net/larrygre/mknews.html

Mike Turley        '66 442
turley@symplex.com


> Hi Again Everyone,
> I recall a post recently from someone regarding a new model kit from Lindberg
> of the 67' 442 W30.  Does this kit now exist or was it seen in a magazine or
> catalog?  My local hobby shop doesn't have it and tells me the kit is not yet
> available.  While we're on the subject of models; has anyone ever seen
> candy tangerine spray paint for plastic models?
>
> TIA
> Mark Berube
> Loganville, GA.
> 67' 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 09:53:47 -0500
From: JR <joertexas@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: No replies to my stripping question

Greg Beaulieu wrote:

> I posted a question on Friday as to wether or not I should strip the
> original finish on my Cutlass and start from bare metal or sand the original
> finish and start from there. I can't believe on this list that no one has an
> opinion that they would bother to share. Or is it that I'm the only nearly
> broke guy trying to restore an Olds, and all the rest just pay someone else
> to do the body work. (Lets see if that sharp stick will goad some one to
> respond.)

Ouch. Okay, okay. I'm awake now. (Some people) :-). Anyway, the only
experience I've had in this area is getting my own car back in shape.
However, using my semi-experienced background in painting, I would
definitely think that starting from scratch would render a better
product.

The absolute 'best thing to do' would be to pull the body off and have
it dipped. However, this is quite expensive and time-consuming. In your
case, you would have to judge the condition of the existing paint versus
the time and expense required to take the car down to bare metal. For
me, I simply didn't have the money, so I had the old paint sanded down
somewhat, then the car was repainted. I have noticed a couple of places
where the paint has started to crack. Also, the paint is easily chipped.
I haven't been able to determine the cause, but I'm sure the answer lies
in either the surface prep or in the fact that the paint wasn't baked
on.

Hope this helps. Now I'm going to go find a Band-Aid.

JR
72 Cutlass S

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 10:01:48 -0500
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Subject: Info on the "Free Over 100 Sex Channels!!!>>" spammer

This spam was sent by numerous throwaway accounts over the weekend;
don't bother complaining to the victimized mailserver sites (i.e. don't
hit REPLY and send off a mailbomb). Go after the advertised party if
you want to complain somewhere; a quick lookup shows that its technical
contact is rather close to our own: chebucto.ns.ca

Yo, Greg! Any chance of personally whacking this guy? See below.

> Whois Query Results
>
> Class Act Performances SCHOOLGIRLZ-DOM
>  6503 N. Military Trail ª4709
>  Boca Raton, FL 33496
>
>  Domain Name: SCHOOLGIRLZ.COM
>
>   Administrative Contact, Billing Contact:
>      Domain Administrator  DA1293-ORG  hostmaster@ESCORTGUIDE.COM
>      800-659-0550
>
>   Technical Contact, Zone Contact:
>      Metson, Mark  MM339  aa332@CHEBUCTO.NS.CA
>      +1 (902) 454-1615


Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 10:11:34 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: '78 Delta - Parts Request

> Same here!  I've got a '78 Delta 88 with the same burgundy/crimson color
> scheme!  Greg and I are in the same boat...we both have faded/cracked
> armrests, and faded/cracked B-trim (between the doors).  Have you found
> any of this stuff in your travels?

Door trims and armrests are in decent shape, dash has cracked from
sitting in the sun, which is my own fault unfortunatly. The interior
is in pretty decent shape, has a few pop stains thanks to my friends,
(it was always the road cruiser when we took long trips)

>
> I'd like to replace the saggy headliner in the future, but it'll have to
> wait.  One thing I DO need right now a pair of horns...the 'low' one
> doesn't work, and the single 'high' one makes it sound like a Hyundai...

Where you from? I know of a junkyard right on the southern border of
Wisconson that has bo-co amount of late 70 olds 88's, pick up a horn
probably for 10 bucks...My headliner must be a gift from god, still
intact so far, I know what your saying though, have alot of friends
cars have the same problems. There is this spray glue you can pick up
at Farm and Fleet, does a good temporary fix, holds for a few months
anyway, or JC Whitney catalog has about the same thing.

>
> If you come across any of these things in your travels, please let me
> know...
>
> Thanks,
>
> S. Dave Ward
>
> '78 Delta 88 (350 4bbl.) --->  finally on the road, resto complete!
> '85 Delta 88 (307 4bbl.) --->  daily driver, until now...
> '91 GMC Sierra 4x4 (305 TBI) ---> back-up vehicle when the '85 won't go!
> >

75 Olds 98 Regence (455 4bbl. Racing Cam, Dual Exhaust, Glass Packs)
78 Olds Delta 88 Royale (350 4bbl)
77 Olds Cutlass (350 4bbl)

- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 08:21:46 -0700
From: Brad Bowles <wolds@napanet.net>
Subject: Olds 8.5" vs. New style 8.5" 10 bolt

From what I can tell, there are two types of 8.5" rear ends.  I do not
know what the difference is, if there is any.  Can someone please help
me?
Thanks
Brad

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 15:09:54 GMT
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: [none]

>   On 1970 ( and 71 - 72 for that matter) the insides and outsides of the
>sides, top and bottoms were painted silver.  The chrome inlays on the 1970
>are stainless or alum. glued in place.

You mean that the traces of gray paint around the sides of the lens is
supposed to have covered that whole section? Wow; the Corvette people would
go insane trying to duplicate the poor quality of this paint job for their
"perfect" restorations. Really, the paint job is so bad, that I thought it
was accidental overspray. Oh, well, if anyone ever needs to see a
"reference" taillight for their restoration, I've got a full set...

>   I have detailed the 70 and 71 by masking off the lens, very teadous
>process, and spraying them with silver paint.  The mask jobs I have done are
>better than the factories, much less overspray if any.  They really look
>good.

Yeah, what appeared to be overspray wasn't on the light-transmitting surface
of the lens itself, but precisely where the paint should have been. I think
you'd have to be drunk and blind to do a worse job than the factory did on
my lenses.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 11:20:01 -0400
From: tgstoner@umich.edu
Subject: Responses on Top

On Sat, 20 Sep 1997 Gary Andresen <gandresen@ibm.net> wrote:
> Have you ever though how nice it is when you see responses to posts
> with the response at the top of your original post.
> Makes it real easy for everyone to see when they are clicking/deleting
> down the list until they see something of personal interest.
> . . .
> TRY IT....... You'll like it.  I know I do.
>
> Any thoughts on this.
**********************************
Gary,

I hate to see message responses at the top.  It's like listening to a
conversation backwards, or reading a book from the back to the front.  It
makes no sense to me.  I've tried it, and I DON'T like it.

As for determining if the message's content is of interest to me, I use the
subject line for that.  And when scrolling, I do so a page at a time.

Thanks for your opinion though.

Or should I say, though opinion your for Thanks?  ;-)

Tom Stoner
Oldsmobile Club of America ª3943
Ann Arbor, MI
tgstoner@umich.edu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 11:23:03 +0000
From: "Rick" <richardc@equitrac.com>
Subject: Re: Whats Up with the List

I didn't buy a Chevy so I doubt that.

Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 11:29:38 -0400
From: tgstoner@umich.edu
Subject: American?

On Sat, 20 Sep 1997 RCKTPWR@aol.com wrote:
> . . .what more american my Tenn. made nissan, or my Canadian built 86
> cutlass salon???

**********************
The last time I checked, Canada was still part of America.  North America,
that is.  A Nissan assembled in Tennessee is certainly American built, but
not necessarily Amercian designed or engineered.  Your Canadian build
Cutlass is alot more welcomed on the street where I live, than your Nissan
would be.

Tom Stoner
Oldsmobile Club of America ª3943
Ann Arbor, MI
tgstoner@umich.edu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 11:29:25 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: '70 Supreme Taillight lenses

Steve I checked my NOS sets and they all have the grey paint on the inside
But no overspray onto the red of the lens.

Mine were purchased by me at my GM dealership so I know there NEW

Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com
- ----------
> From: CarrDuff@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: '70 Supreme Taillight lenses
> Date: Sunday, September 21, 1997 9:13 PM

> << Subj:'70 Supreme Taillight lenses
>
>
>  Anyone have a clue as to what the proper detailing of that taillight
>
>
>
>
> Steve Dietrich
>   S/E PA
>     71 442 W30 Conv.
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 11:34:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: DATIC@aol.com
Subject: Re: 67' 442 model from Lindberg

Mark B. sez...
<I recall a post recently from someone regarding a new model kit from
Lindberg
of the 67' 442 W30.>

     I posted that about two weeks ago. I found it at my local hobby shop.
It's a brand new tool and release, so it may not be everywhere right away.
I'm not that familiar
with Cutlass/442 stuff, but the kit looks like it has a lot of detail.

     Dave T.
     '66 Dynamic 88 'vert

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 10:51:34 -0500
From: "David Brown (the Olds FAQ compiler)" <dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: '78 miscell

Ha! I had the same problem with my '77. When I first bought it I thought
it didn't have an ACC position. Five years (!) later I decided to "make
the ACC position work". Ta da! Took a couple of determined turns from
the RUN position! The same today. I'm probably causing some damage. I've
lubed it (teflon spray), tried used keys, new keys from master - all
work the same. Must be a battery run down protection feature.

Regarding the EGR, the service manual has a section about it - cleaning
and testing. Put your fingers under the diaphram to feel it move. Should
be none of very little at idle, as you raise the RPM, you should feel
the diaphram move. Check the choke tubes for rust through.

David Brown     Mailto:dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds
- ----------
Rough idle, EGR.

The ignition key occasionally hangs up and won't
turn, and I can never get it into the "ACC" position.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 97 10:26:30 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re[2]: "Baffled" (was: My 455 ª's (block ID's))

On Sat, 20 Sep 1997, padavano.joe wrote:
>      You are referring to part number 391116, Baffle, Intake Manifold Oil.
>      This was used on every big block Olds from at least 1966 on...

Greg Beaulieu commented:

That sounds like the item, but on a 350 at least it won't coexist with
the sheetmetal intake gasket. Not enough height in the block.

     To which I respond:

     That's right.  The baffle was only used on the big block.  The small
     block didn't have the large openings in the casting directly above the
     cam, and thus the engineers apparently felt the piece was not
     required.

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 10:58:53 -0500
From: "David Brown (the Olds FAQ compiler)" <dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: RE: Cutlass/442 Parts

As I recall, someone on this list encountered major problems with
receiving damaged products, and then after being promised he could
return the damaged goods without incurring a return/restocking fee, was
charged the return/restocking fee (wasn't it something like $70-$80?).

They are in my back yard as well (~4 miles), so if anyone wants me to
check on quality, etc, I can do that. I could also buy it, pack and ship
it for you as well. If you give me a weeks notice, I think I could take
care of a request.

David Brown     Mailto:dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds
- ------------
There is a place out by me that carries Cutlass/442 Parts. They are
called
The parts Place. I got to go in their back room and look at all of their
parts. They have a good inventory! They have a 1970 hood that is not a
reproduction. It's the real thing. I don't have the price. You can call
them.
They have a lot of OAI stuff! I bought a washer jar from them. There
address
and phone number are:
The Parts Place
950 Paramount Parkway
Batavia, Illinois 60510
(630) 879-1600
(800) 879-0411
Hope that this helps some of you out with your parts!!!
Jim
1970 Cutlass W31

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 97 11:14:02 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: 1968 442 W30 Buying advice requested

Greetings,

        I am considering purchasing a 1968 442 W30.  I am looking
for any tips/hints/insight anyone might have with respect to
authenticity and value.  I am suspicious because the car is supposed
to have power brakes and no posi rear rear end.  The VIN supposedly
starts with the magic 344 combination.  I have not seen the vehicle
yet to check fender wells or other other ids.  Any thoughts are
greatly appreciated.

Regards,
Chuck

     Chuck,

     All 68 W-30s had manual brakes and posi rear ends.  While it is
     certainly possible that these parts were replaced as some point in the
     car's life, I find it hard to believe that the W-30 cam would provide
     enough vacuum for the brake booster.

     As for other pointers:

     Obviously, the car should have the dual-snorkel air cleaner housing
     with 4" diameter cloth ducts running down to the under-the-bumper
     scoops.  While these units are often missing, there should at least be
     two sheet metal clips (one bolted to each inner fender) which located
     the ducting.  These are bent spring steel strips, about 3/4" wide and
     bent into a 4" diameter circle.  The clips actually cover about 270
     degrees of the circle, with the open ends flared out slightly.

     Red plastic inner fenderwells with 4" holes cut in the surface just
     behind the headlights for the air ducts.  Note that repro red fenders
     are available, but the ones I've seen are not as well made as the
     originals.  One easy check is to look at the two square raised pads on
     the driver's side inner fender (these were used as the mounting
     location for the cruise control unit if the car was so equipped).
     These are about 1.5" square and located about in line with the horn
     relay.  On the repro units I've seen these pads are amorphous blobs,
     while on the original units they are well-defined with sharp edges.

     Raised letter "D" cast into the cylinder heads just forward of the
     number 1 spark plug and just aft of the number 8 spark plug.

     If the car has a TH400, the transmission (if original) will have a
     metal tag with the letters "OW" on the right side of the housing.

     The windshield washer tank should be on the _passenger's side_ inner
     fender.  This was done on O.A.I. cars only to allow room for the air
     duct.

     All W-cars were built in Lansing, so the VIN should start out
     344_78M... (the "_" will be the number 6, 7, or 8, depending on
     whether the car is a convertible, sport coupe, or holiday coupe,
     respectively; the "M" represents the Lansing plant).

     The Fisher Body data plate will have either a 336... or a 344... body
     number.  In either case, the plate should indicate LAN for a
     Lansing-built car.

     All 68 W-30 cars came with the fender rally stripes.  These are the
     "bumblebee" stripes (three vertical stripes: narrow-wide-narrow) on
     the front fenders above and below the 442 emblems.  These stripes were
     optional on non-W cars, but mandatory on the W-30 that year (the
     message here is that the presence of stripes does not prove the car is
     a W-30, but the absence of stripes guarantees that it is not).  Note
     that Olds actually repositioned the emblems rearward on cars with the
     stripe, so if the car has been repainted without the stripes, the
     emblems will still be in a different position than on other 442s
     (sorry, my 68 is at home so I'll have to post the exact measurement
     later).

     Of course, none of this is absolute proof, as it is certainly possible
     to add all of these items to a 442 and fake a W-30.  The only absolute
     proof is to locate the built sheet.  Good luck.

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 06:41:20 -0500
From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Subject: Re: Fast-ratio steering box

>  I have not tried it out yet but I can only assume that by reducing the
> overall turns would make the car feel tighter in the steering and provide
> quicker response.
>
>   Don't assume that everyone here has driven a 60's or early 70's car.  The
> newer cars don't handle the same and it's difficult describing the steering
> slopp the older cars have.  I completed a frame off on a 70 C/S a few years
> ago and someone asked me how it handled.  I said it handled like a car from
> the early 70's,  lots of wheel play and lots of turns.
>

I had a '69 Cutlass that had the touchiest power steering with an
agreeable amount of play. The first time I drove my 4-4-2 the steering
had less play but a much better road feel. If you have variable ratio
steering you will notice a small change.

Danny

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 11:34:06 -0500
From: "David Brown (the Olds FAQ compiler)" <dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: Fuel Requirements

> Remember this...if leaded gas was so good, why did they get rid of it?

Tree hugging enviromentalist and Naders raiders who hate anything that
doesn't fit their ill concieved plot to deprive us of our rights to high
octane. The amount of lead exposure from car exhaust is insignificant
compared to other sources. Lead paint and lead solder for water pipes
have been phased out. Even todays engines require more octane than "pure
gasoline" has. They still put a lot of additives, some of which are
known or suspected carcinogens. Lead is poison but so is gas. The Naders
raiders and the Gores whores of the world will eventually outlaw all
internal combustion vehicles if we let them.

Leaded fuel has two compounds ethylene dichloride and ethylene bromide
which acts as a scavaging agent that allows the lead to be pushed out of
the engine and exhaust system without build up. Without these chemicals
lead would indeed build up.

Off the soap box

Danny
- ----------
Well, I remember watching a program a couple of years ago about lead
tailpipe emissions. Seems the small kids living within a couple of miles
of LA expressways had lead poisoning. The lead paint was gone, so that
wasn't the source. Turns out the kids were getting it from the soil! The
kids were picking it up from the dirt they got on their hands and toys.
Of course their poor hygiene (eating the dirt) caused part of the
problem. 2-3 inches of dirt were removed from around the house, and the
kids improved.

I think leaded gas fallout caused what was thought to be primarily a
lead paint problem. I'm glad both are gone.

I have to agree that a lot of these "public watchdogs" only see the
trees, and not the forest. For example, with reformulated gas, the
benzene content is down, but the ethanol results in formaldehyde
(airborne I guess). And there are other "new" and "wonderful"
carcinogens to consider. And the BTU content is down, so you must burn
more to get the same amount of power. Judging from the fact that 3/4 to
WO throttle blasts are the norm around here, I don't believe there is
less pollution. After all, emissions equipment is only made and mandated
to work at part throttle cruise.

- --
David Brown     Mailto:dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 12:27:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: 67' AM/FM radio

In a message dated 97-09-22 10:17:28 EDT, you write:

<<
 Hi Everyone,
 Was AM/FM radio available in the 67 Cutlass/442?
 I've seen ads for 67 AM radios but don't recall having seen AM/FM.
 While we're on the subject, what about 8 tracks that year?

 TIA
 Mark Berube
 Loganville,GA.
 67' 442
  >>

The way I inderstand it the 68 Cutlass/442 was the first
 year for FM. 69 had FM stereo. I dont know if they offered
the FM in 67 on the bigger cars, say the 98?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 12:53:49 -0400 (EDT)
From: BobH592058@aol.com
Subject: Rears in Olds'

Jim Chermak wrote:

<<68-69
cars that were built in Canada had 12 Bolt C types (Chevy's) installed in
them. >>

As near as I can remember (advancing age can result in incorrect
recollections) and from what's in my '75 parts manual, they were all 10 bolt
"C" rears.

I would like to obtain a flange from one of those Canadian Olds.  That's the
flange which the drive shaft is bolted/strapped to.  They are the only ones
I've been able to find that allow the use of larger Olds u-joint trunnion
size.  The C*evy installations require a hybrid u-joint.

Anybody have one??

Please respond direct as I don't get to the digests as much as I would like,
 thanks.


Bob Handren (AKA Major Doma)
OCA/OCFª 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 12:54:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: BobH592058@aol.com
Subject: Re: 400 vs. 425 vs. 455

Gee, I'm reduced to scanning the digests and can't participate in a timely
manner but this discussion (again) gets me interested to the point of
_making_ some time.

As most of you know I've been runnin' and racin' and funnin' Olds engines
since the early 60's.  IMHO the short stroke Olds big blocks are the best
engines Olds made.  It's a shame they were only made for 3 model years.  If
they had been used in more model years they would be more appreciated and
understood. And more important, maybe there would be more aftermarket parts
for 'em!

There have been some pretty good reasons given for the short stroke engines
being at least as good as the larger displacement long stroke 400/455's.  For
one thing the rod used on the earlier big blocks is longer which positively
affects torque production.  There is darn little difference in torque between
'em.

According to the published figures in my Olds Parts & Accessories
Illustrations books dated September 1973, the following torque/horsepower
ratings are given for 425 vs 455.

A '67 Toro 425 had 480 lbs.ft.of torque and 385 horses.
A '68 Toro 455 had 510 lbs.ft of torque and 400 horses.

That's a 6% gain is torque and 4% gain in horsepower from a 7% increase in
displacement.  But, as we know, the factory played with these numbers.

Comparing the 67 400 with the 68:

The '67 400 cid 442 motor had 440 lbs.ft at 350 horses.
The '68 400 cid 442 motor had 435 lbs.ft at 350 horses.

I don't believe the last torque numbers for the simple reason that the
'68-'69 motors were dogs at the track.  Great street motors but they just
don't rev like the short stroke motors.  Anyway, those are the "factory"
numbers. On the track the '68-'69's weren't as good.  And that's with the
same displacement.  So what gives?

The point I'd like to make is that the "there's no replacement for
displacement rule" is generally true but isn't true in all cases.

For instance, I hope it isn't a violation of Olds-list-etiquette to mention a
sister division by using the full name. At least it isn't a Shivy comparison.


Anybody ever hear of the Buick '70 GS 455 cid Stage I and II cars?  Those
monsters weighed _hundreds_ of pounds more than any other muscle car of the
era and you know what - they blew my doors off and just about everyone elses,
including street hemis. They made gobs more torque _and_ horsepower than
either Olds or Pontiac 455's.  So how can that be with the same 455 cid?

Because those engines use short stroke cranks, large bores and longer rods -
just like the comparison between the short stroke 400/425 and long stroke
400/455.

I would sorely love to build a snorting 425.  Bore it 0.125" over for a total
displacement of 445 ci.  I'll still spot the 455 crowd the 10 cubic inches.
 The 445 will make more torque than a 455, be freer revving and therefore
make more HP too.

To tell a muscle car wars story, in '68-69 a local Olds dealer in San
Antonio, TX ran a stripped down '68 Hurst Olds at the local track.  It was
professionally blueprinted, balanced, hotter cam (AHRA rules), Holley carb,
Hooker headers, etc.  It had the best stuff available at the time.

My '67 was running a rescued-from-the-warranty-pile totally stock 425 (not
even a Toro motor), stock "C" heads, stock intake, stock Q-Jet carb, W-30
cam, smaller diameter Hooker headers, etc. Spotting a pro built car 30 cubes
that short stroke Olds big block still did pretty good.  That car never beat
mine.  Even with different drivers (the dealer's driver-mechanic was
summarily pissed!) I never lost. I'm talking about a period of over two
years.  The dealer H/O routinely won class and lost to me in elinimator.  I
loved it!

I strongly suspect there are darn few people on this list who have actually
built a 425 or raced one either. (Except Chris Witt of course.)

Don't knock 'em 'less your speaking from experience. My experience is they
scream. Add the forged crank and, theoretically, less demand on the oiling
system (shorter stroke) it's a more durable combination as well.  Like I
said, I'd sorely love to build a 445 short stroke big block.  I have three
crank/rod sets, all I need is a 425/455 block (either will do) and custom
pistons.  Oh yeah - the money too. :-))

My .02 cents worth of bench racin'.

Bob Handren (AKA Major Doma)
OCA/OCFª 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 97 12:57:17 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re[2]: Fast-ratio steering box

     Everything I've ever read indicates that you should use the Trans Am
     WS6 Saginaw PS box in A-body cars as the quickest-ratio unit.  Anyone
     ever done this swap?  How did it turn out?

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 12:35:40 -0500
From: "David Brown (the Olds FAQ compiler)" <dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: RE: vacuum delta 88 '76

I have really trouble with a cold start. Sometimes I have to pump the
gas
about 20 times and still I have to start it 6 or 7 times.
Hope someone can help me.
Greetings from Holland.
Archy
delta 88 royale '76
- ----------
Sounds like the choke is set too lean (choke opening is too large). The
factory setting was three notches rich.
- --
David Brown     Mailto:dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 09:45:25 -0700
From: Gary Manton <sasgmm@unx.sas.com>
Subject: 2 part on Dynamic 88

I have two questions that I will pose to the list for your vast experience
concerning my 1964 Dynamic 88.

1.  On the rear arm rest on the drivers side is a little black switch, does
anyone know what it is for?

2.  I am looking at my 394 engine and considering doing a rebuild, but the
parts  for the engine are a little extravagent, so I am considering other
options.  What would you do, a 425, 455 etc...

Any feedback with reasons would be greatly appreciated.

Gary
          \\|//
          (o o)
~~~~~~oOOo~(_)~oOOo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Gary M. MantonSAS Institute
Business Solutions DivisionPhoenix, AZ  85012
(602) 265-1616 ext. 230 - voice        (602) 265-8585 - fax

"In business as in life, your chances of being run over are doubled
if you stay in the middle of the road"
~~~~~~oooo~~~~~oooo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 12:39:45 -0500
From: "David Brown (the Olds FAQ compiler)" <dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: RE: vacuum delta 88 '76, again

A misadjusted (too lean - too large throttle opening) will not allow
enough fuel to be pulled into the cylinders, causing long cranking
times, and appear to be leaking bowl plugs. Also check for rotted choke
tubes.
- --
David Brown     Mailto:dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 12:50:52 -0500
From: "David Brown (the Olds FAQ compiler)" <dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: Delta Resto

Somehow I can just picture Greg sitting alone in the Delta in the dark
with
all those *new* interior lights on = grinning like a fool :-)  It IS the
little things that keep us happy.  It's why we don't do all that
dysfunctional-talk radio crap, we're too busy chaning itsy bitsy bulbs
and
getting excited about it!

Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA
- ----------
Just thought I would spend all my posting tokens today . . . !!

Greg, just to up the ante, keep you eye out for a passenger sun visor
w/lighted vanity mirror (!) and the nifty map light/center light
combination.

For everyone with headliner problems, a cheap, super durable, but not
show quality solution is to use tight loop indoor/outdoor carpeting. I
recommend pulling out the cardboard headliner shell. Headliner rim will
have to come off too- careful with those "rare" (really) plastic clips.
Center light needs disconnecting (remove NEG battery cable please!). Use
two quarts of carpet glue. Align seam carefully. Use something to press
carpet into rounded corners (like newspapers). Let sit two days to dry.
Trim excess with sharp utility knife. Pretty much indestructible.

That tight loop carpeting works great for the sail panels and as a trunk
mat too.
- --
David Brown     Mailto:dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds
- ------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 13:36:25 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: FS: D heads

I have an extra set of "D" heads that I wouldn't mind selling to someone
on this list first, before I submit it to the bryceman classifieds.  No
cracks.  Assembled, minus the rockers/pivots.  Never been touched that I
can tell.  IMO, they are better than "F" heads, due to smaller
combustion chamber. Does not have rotators like "F" heads.  Has one
center exhaust port to heat riser, other blocked.  $900 to anyone on the
list.  Just so Chris Witt doesn't think I'm holding anyone hostage (ha
ha), I don't care if anyone buys them or not, I just don't think I'll be
using them anytime in the near future.  They haven't gone anywhere in a
long time, they don't take up much room, and they're portable.  Just
want to know if someone needed "D" heads.  If not, I'll keep them, no
big deal.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 13:14:17 -0500
From: "David Brown (the Olds FAQ compiler)" <dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: '70 98

I think I found a deal on a 1970  98  green & green  if I pick it up
I'll
be pulling the engine, trans  but I will part with the rest of the car
I think the only body damage is to the rear pass door  and it wasnt
serious

Dustin
- ----------
Dustin,
Any chance you picked this up?  Reply to me directly at the address
below.

Thanks,

David Brown     Mailto:dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 14:06:07 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: American?

In a message dated 97-09-22 11:31:55 EDT, you write:

<< The last time I checked, Canada was still part of America.  North America,
 that is.  A Nissan assembled in Tennessee is certainly American built, but
 not necessarily Amercian designed or engineered.  Your Canadian build
 Cutlass is alot more welcomed on the street where I live, than your Nissan
 would be.
  >>
HI Tom,
 im sure in MI that would b correct. But, if u live in the us, yr an
american, if you live in mex, yr a mexican, and in canada, a canadian. From
my standpoint, if i got laid off by a us carmaker, and they sent my job
north/south of the border, and i supported by family by making nissans, i
feel its better for the american worker to b working ..period  ps, my nissan
truck was designed in California.  Happy oldsmobiling........
Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 13:38:16 -0500
From: "David Brown (the Olds FAQ compiler)" <dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: RE: Eastwood stuff

but they just cancelled their olds 400 bronze paint
- ----------
And their Olds blue is discontinued!!

Anyone interested in semi-gloss black and grey aerosol paint (and other
colors) that has a built in primer (that really stops and prevents rust
surface rust) for the same price or less than Eastwood? An opportunity
is presenting itself and I would like to get some feedback. Should I
post more info?
- --
David Brown     Mailto:dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 13:08:58 -0600 (MDT)
From: Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Subject: Re: Olds 4-ever, chevy NEVER!!!!!!!!!

I own a few chevs cause olds never made a pickup

I dont have a chevy car so I dont have to
find and excuse for that

On Fri, 19 Sep 1997 RCKTPWR@aol.com wrote:

> a) real cars dont wear bowties............
>
> C ondition
> H opeless
> E ntire
> V ehicle
> R elies
> O n
> L eftover
> E ngine
> T echnology
>
> bernie............
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 15:15:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Peg O'Connor" <peg@grove.ufl.edu>
Subject: Re: '78 Delta 88 parts needed...

> On Sun, 21 Sep 1997, Dave Ward wrote:
> > Number two...the headliner is saggy.  Is there a quick fix for this, or
> > should it be replaced?  There's a small slit (1.5") above the left-rear
> > seat, and I'm willing to live with it, but the sag must be dealt with.

When mine started sagging, I put pins in it to make a "coach roof" design.
It actually worked out really well until I could afford to replace it.
Since my car is red and white, and the headliner was red, I used those
little pins with white heads and slid them into the headliner at an angle
to make the pattern.

As far as magenta armrests and stuff, I had mine redyed at the same
upholstery shop where the headliner was replaced.  That was in 1993, and
although a teeny bit of the dye is flaking off, the vast majority is
holding up very well.

8)
peg
1978 Cutlass Calais (Red Mine)
1986 Cutlass Supreme (Grey Mine)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 15:13:04 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: American?

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BCC76A.091A2360
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

IMHO, it's where the money goes that really matters.  Sure, Japanese =
firms create jobs in America, but the real money is shipped (or wired =
nowadays) off to Asia.  I'd rather see the car company's headquarters in =
Michigan (Lansing, preferably!), regardless of where the car was =
actually built, than to see a factory in Tennessee or Kentucky or Ohio =
and see the money and funding shipped overseas.

But, that's just my $0.02

 Jason Adcock
 jadcock@vt.edu


- -----Original Message-----
From:RCKTPWR@aol.com [SMTP:RCKTPWR@aol.com]
Sent:Monday, September 22, 1997 2:06 PM
To:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:Re: American?

In a message dated 97-09-22 11:31:55 EDT, you write:

<< The last time I checked, Canada was still part of America.  North =
America,
 that is.  A Nissan assembled in Tennessee is certainly American built, =
but
 not necessarily Amercian designed or engineered.  Your Canadian build
 Cutlass is alot more welcomed on the street where I live, than your =
Nissan
 would be.
  >>
HI Tom,
 im sure in MI that would b correct. But, if u live in the us, yr an
american, if you live in mex, yr a mexican, and in canada, a canadian. =
From
my standpoint, if i got laid off by a us carmaker, and they sent my job
north/south of the border, and i supported by family by making nissans, =
i
feel its better for the american worker to b working ..period  ps, my =
nissan
truck was designed in California.  Happy oldsmobiling........
Bernie

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 07:21:47 -0500
From: Ryan Thompson <rythom@ICSI.Net>
Subject: Hello

I have a question about how much a 1962 Oldsmobile f-85 is worth now, I am
selling one and i am curious to know how much they are worth..

Thank you for you time,

Ryan Thompson

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 12:27:43 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: American?

Jason Adcock wrote:
>
> IMHO, it's where the money goes that really matters.  Sure, Japanese
> firms create jobs in America, but the real money is shipped (or wired
> nowadays) off to Asia.  I'd rather see the car company's headquarters
> in Michigan (Lansing, preferably!), regardless of where the car was
> actually built, than to see a factory in Tennessee or Kentucky or
> Ohio and see the money and funding shipped overseas.
>
> But, that's just my $0.02

I wasn't going to get into this, however, I concur with Jason.

My 2 yen's worth. :)

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 14:41:57 -0500
From: david wyatt <Wyatt_David_L@LILLY.COM>
Subject: Drag Strip Fun (long)

I took the Olds racin' last Saturday.  This was my once every couple of
years trip to the track for the 4-4-2.
I had installed new Uniroyal radials this spring and they seemed to have
quite a bit of bite on the street so I thought they might be a little
better on the strip than the former bias ply tires had been.  They were
better but not great.  Unfortunately we have a 1/8 mile strip  and not
getting to use all of third and none of fourth gear leaves something to
be desired.  Since I was trying to launch the car well, the track length
was not important.  First pass I left with a fair amount of wheel spin
in first.  I "grabbed" second gear and the tires let loose big time.  60
ft. was 2.545 and the ET was 10.742 at 69.33 mph.  The second pass I
tried to make John Force proud.  I dumped the clutch at 5500 rpm and I
did not think it would ever stop spinning the tires.  My son Michael
thought it looked cool because you could not see the starter for the
smoke.  I did shift to second gently and go down the track.  60 ft. was
2.750 and ET was 10.984 at 71.98 mph.  The third pass I decided to take
the gentle approach to everything.  I brought the rpm up th abou 3000
and dumped the clutch without givig the car anymore gas until the car
moved.  This resulted in a chirp of the tires and the motor almost
stalling.  I then shifted gently into second and then third.  60 ft. was
2.445 and ET was 9.921 at 74.73 mph.  Ah yes, finess is the only way.
At that point it was time to dial in aand start eliminations.
I decided to dial soft and play the braking game in case of driver
error.  I dialed a 10.30 thinking (always dangerous) I could easily
pedal it and not break out.  I was paired up with a "new" Firechicken
who was dialed at 8.95.  I left first with the tires making a little
noise and the rpms up, shifted into second and saw I had about a half
track advantage on the other car.  I then shifted into third and kept my
speed steady.  I knew I had left good and was hoping the other car was
real late.  Alas, I had left real good but the other car had left equaly
as well.  I went through the lights ahead of the Firechicken by .291 and
managed to break out.
I had a 60 ft time of 2.354 and ran a non accelerating at the end 10.153
at 68.29 mph.  It makes me wonder what it would have run if I had stayed
in it all the way.  I plan on going again in a few weeks when we are not
racing the Jr. Dragster, as it is too much trouble to try and run both
cars the same day.  A four speed with street tires and 3.42 gears makes
an interesting (pain in the *ss) combo on the track.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 12:58:41 -0500
From: Lloyd Ferguson <cutlass69@usa.net>
Subject: Body Bushing Interchange

I want to replace the body mount bushings on my '69 Cutlass convertible.  I
have a Chevelle catalog from a major distributor (who does not handle
Cutlass) showing Chevelle bushings for about 30% less than any of my
Oldmosible catalogs.

Does anyone know if they are compatible?

Lloyd Ferguson
cutlass69@usa.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 16:00:21 -0500
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: Olds 4-ever, chevy NEVER!!!!!!!!!

- ----------
> From: Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
>
>
> I own a few chevs cause olds never made a pickup
>
They did at one time.

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 17:56:32 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Value of '62 F-85

Please reply directly, he's not on the list...

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:Ryan Thompson <rythom@ICSI.Net>
Subject: Hello
Return-Path: <oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca>

I have a question about how much a 1962 Oldsmobile f-85 is worth now, I am
selling one and i am curious to know how much they are worth..

Thank you for you time,

Ryan Thompson

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 17:58:43 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: RE: Eastwood stuff

David,

FWIW, I have always had bad experiences with Eastwood paint. Maybe its
because of the quick-and-dirty types of jobs I've had to use them for but
they seem very sensitive to surface prep and primer used, and invariably
I get curdling and/or other problems with the finish. For me Krylon and
Plasti-Kote work best.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 18:00:34 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Re[2]: "Baffled" (was: My 455 ª's (block ID's))

On Mon, 22 Sep 1997, Padavano.Joe wrote:
>      That's right.  The baffle was only used on the big block.  The small
>      block didn't have the large openings in the casting directly above the
>      cam, and thus the engineers apparently felt the piece was not
>      required.

Joe, if we're talking about the same piece (and I think we are), one was
in my '68 350 from the factory. It used strip-type intake gaskets, not
the tray style.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 17:09:17 -0400
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: Re: Body Bushing Interchange

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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> I want to replace the body mount bushings on my '69 Cutlass convertible.
I
> have a Chevelle catalog from a major distributor (who does not handle
> Cutlass) showing Chevelle bushings for about 30% less than any of my
> Oldmosible catalogs.
>
> Does anyone know if they are compatible?
>
>          They should fit but be warned - you get what you pay for !!!!!!!
Do they include the metal washers and what are they made of.

The general
>
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 17:12:52 -0400
From: "John Richmond" <richmond@tir.com>
Subject: Re: thanks all for the 73 H/O feedback!

>For the guy in warren MI, I think it's the same car you saw.  The owner
>said he just moved from warren and needed to sell it.

Yea, I thought it sounded like the same car I saw.

By the way where do you live?

John Richmond
richmond@tir.com
Warren, MI
72 442/455

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 17:23:01 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: 67' 442 model from Lindberg

At 10:04 AM 9/22/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Hi Again Everyone,
>I recall a post recently from someone regarding a new model kit from Lindberg
>of the 67' 442 W30.  Does this kit now exist or was it seen in a magazine or
>catalog?  My local hobby shop doesn't have it and tells me the kit is not yet
>available.  While we're on the subject of models; has anyone ever seen
>candy tangerine spray paint for plastic models?
>
>TIA
>Mark Berube
>Loganville, GA.
>67' 442
>

Mark

        I've got two of them. They were released two to three weeks ago.
They were at Charlotte Auto Fair two weeks ago. Paid $11.00 for it. Very
nice kit also. My buddy found two more locally at better hobby shops. Try
there first.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 17:24:33 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: 67' AM/FM radio

At 10:10 AM 9/22/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Hi Everyone,
>Was AM/FM radio available in the 67 Cutlass/442?
>I've seen ads for 67 AM radios but don't recall having seen AM/FM.
>While we're on the subject, what about 8 tracks that year?
>
>TIA
>Mark Berube
>Loganville,GA.
>67' 442
>

Mark

        The AM/FM was available in 67. The 8 track was not available. There
was a reverb option also. My 67 W-30 has factory AM/FM and is documented on
the firewall data plate.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 17:43:08 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: 0-60 Time

Greetings all.

Does anybody have a clue what the 0-60 time is for a early eighties (84 in my
case) Cutlass 2 door coupe with the 307?  I've never been able to find a road
test of this car and would like to know 0-60 times and quarter mile times.  I'd
rather have Motor Trend flog their Cutlass than me flog mine!  I've been 
messing
around with StripTun, but it's saying times like 11.5 seconds.  No WAY!  I must
have something punched in wrong.  I was figuring on a time like 9 or 9.5, but
not 11.5!!!

Thanks.

 Jason Adcock
 jadcock@vt.edu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 17:51:57 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: 0-60 Time

At 05:43 PM 9/22/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Greetings all.
>
>Does anybody have a clue what the 0-60 time is for a early eighties (84 in
my case) Cutlass 2 door coupe with the 307?  I've never been able to find a
road test of this car and would like to know 0-60 times and quarter mile
times.  I'd rather have Motor Trend flog their Cutlass than me flog mine!
I've been messing around with StripTun, but it's saying times like 11.5
seconds.  No WAY!  I must have something punched in wrong.  I was figuring
on a time like 9 or 9.5, but not 11.5!!!
>
>Thanks.
>
> Jason Adcock
> jadcock@vt.edu
>
>

Jason

        Nope. 11.5 is about right. These cars ran 17-18 second quarters. The
H/O's and 442's may have ran low 16's to high 15's but that's about it.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 15:52:33 -0700
From: "dan cox" <peachyst@earthlink.net>
Subject: Q? how can i improve head oiling on my '63 394 rebuild?

help please  - how can i improve the oiling problem that alledgedly doomed
the otherwise reliable, powerful 394 c.i. [1958 - 1963 ? ] can switching
pushrods help?  the oem are solid, right?  the replacement lifters have the
little oil hole in the center.  would this changing of the pushrods then
diminish oil pressure to the rest of the engine? thanks, dan cox email at
peachyst@earthlink.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 19:16:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: R4C442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rears in Olds'

Hey Major Doma!
        If you can give me a mailing address I'll send you those Pics from
Lansing.
                                                R4C   The 65 Meister Du 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 19:24:13 -0400
From: kevin hawkins <hawk455@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Bandwidth.....question

Steve B. wrote:
>
> kevin hawkins wrote:
>
> > what do u want to know building 455 now to go faster hope to be at
> > english town on the 10/11  4 olds show and race did u ever hear
> > ofwilliams olds stocker
>
> Would this be "Cajun nightmare" the 71 442 (F/SA I believe) owned by
> Johnny Williams of RI??????
>
> Steve
> 71 Cutlass S 455
> 93 Mustang LX 5.0
yes that be him helping me with my car now hope to run 11s next spring
what do u no about them 455s

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 19:44:03 -0400
From: kevin hawkins <hawk455@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Q? how can i improve head oiling on my '63 394 rebuild?

dan cox wrote:
>
> help please  - how can i improve the oiling problem that alledgedly doomed
> the otherwise reliable, powerful 394 c.i. [1958 - 1963 ? ] can switching
> pushrods help?  the oem are solid, right?  the replacement lifters have the
> little oil hole in the center.  would this changing of the pushrods then
> diminish oil pressure to the rest of the engine? thanks, dan cox email at
> peachyst@earthlink.net
selling 1 r rear quarter panel gm $1000 performance stock parts carbs
heads work call kevin hawkins 401 467 2524 or johnny wiliams 401 232
3089 my car 72 old 12.52    johns car 72 w30 11.4

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª862
********************************
