To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #860


oldsmobile-digest      Sunday, September 21 1997      Volume 01 : Number 860



Re: Fuel Requirements
Re: 400 vs. 425 vs. 455
Fast-ratio steering box
Re: Fuel Requirements
Mannix mobile
Re: aol blows, need help
Re: MECHANICAL: Ignition key runs door?
77 Cutlass..Wheel Bearing Noise?
72 Cutlass -Supreme body style
Re: TicTocTac Tec
67 Cutlass Cruise Control
Re: My 455 ª's (block ID's)
Re: Cleaning electrical connections
Re: AOL is cool!.....RCKTPWR ==>not!!!!!
Re: MECHANICAL: Ignition key runs door?
Re: 77 Cutlass..Wheel Bearing Noise?
Re: MECHANICAL: Ignition key runs door?
Re: MECHANICAL: Ignition key runs door?
unsubscribe
Re: HEI Conversion
Re: MECHANICAL: Ignition key runs door?
Re: 72 Cutlass -Supreme body style
In Search of a new gas tank
Re: KEY BLANK USAGE
Re: 72 Cutlass -Supreme body style
Re: Olds list lingo
Re: Olds list lingo
Re: 12 sec rocket in RI
need advice...
Re: need advice...
Re: 67 Cutlass Cruise Control
Re: AOL is cool!.....RCKTPWR ==>not!!!!!
Re: 12 sec rocket in RI
Re: '78 Delta Dash Lights
Re: 72 Cutlass -Supreme body style
Re: '78 Delta - Parts Request
Re: "Baffled" (was: My 455 ª's (block ID's))
Re: MECHANICAL: Ignition key runs door?
Re: MECHANICAL: Ignition key runs door?
Something wrong?
is this good $ for 73 H/O?
Re: KEY BLANK USAGE
Re: Fall Carlise
Re: 12 sec rocket in RI
Re: 12 sec rocket in RI
update info on 73 H/O
Re: 72 Cutlass -Supreme body style
Re: '78 Delta - Parts Request
Unsubscribe
Re: update info on 73 H/O
Re: KEY BLANK USAGE
Re: 12 bolt rear end
Re: 12 bolt rear end
vacuum delta 88 '76
Re: '78 Delta - Parts Request
Re: 12 sec rocket in RI
Re: Fuel Requirements
Re: '78 Delta Dash Lights
Re: is this good $ for 73 H/O?
'78 Delta Remote Mirror
PARTS: New stuff

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 23:43:22 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: Fuel Requirements

>> >
>I live in Parma Ohio.  The reg is rated at 88 octane and cost me
>1.22/gallon which was 3 cents cheaper than the unleaded 87 octane.  I
>have heard there is another station in the area that sells it also.  I
>dont believe that it is illegal, just illegal to use in cars with
>catalytic converters. Not certain though.
>
>Joe
>72 Cutlass Supreme


Now that I know the octane of the leaded fuel, I would think that a
unleaded, higher octane fuel would perform better than a lower octane,
Leaded fuel.

Is this correct?

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 23:31:40 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 400 vs. 425 vs. 455

All this talk about 400 vs. 425 vs. 455......fine, race all those E400s,
and 425s, and you can give me all your slower revving dogs (455s) so you
won't be bothered with them.....hee hee.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 23:38:07 -0400 (EDT)
From: DEOVIVERE@aol.com
Subject: Fast-ratio steering box

Hey All -

I am considering installing a fast-ratio power steering box in my car
(Cutlass Supreme SX) in place of the stock standard ratio box.   For those
unfamiliar with this, the new fast ratio boxes contains a different gear
differential that removes approx 1.5 turns of the steering wheel from lock to
lock (a 33% reduction).  This means that you turn the steering wheel less in
turning the car, making its handling more crisp and less laborious.

Do any of you have experience with the faster boxes?  I have heard people I
 respect give me both the thumbs up and the thumbs down on the conversion.
 What do you all say?

I have a fresh FE-2 sport suspension and run on P255 60 R15 Goodyear Eagle
GTIIs road wheels.  I would also like to be able to make it to shows and back
on reproduction bias ply Wide Ovals.   What sort of benefits and difficulties
do you all forsee?

Thanks

Tom SImmons
Cutlass Supreme SX
deovivere@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 23:41:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Fuel Requirements

In a message dated 97-09-20 06:16:33 EDT, you write:

<<
 On Fri, 19 Sep 1997, "J. Michael Wolfe" <boogah@en.com> wrote:
 >Found a station that sells "Regular" leaded fuel. Is there any benefit
 >in using this over unleaded in a 72 350 engine.
 >
 >The owners manual states that 91 or higher octane fuel should be used in
 >the 72.  Any thoughts or comments from the experts out there?
 >
 >Joe
 >72 Cutlass Supreme
 >

  >>
Dont get your hopes up on this "Leaded Regular", we have a station
here in Kansas that sells it but its not what it used to be.  The good
old Leaded used to be between 1.7 or so and 2 grams of lead per
gallon.  This new stuff has been reduced over the years to, in our
case, .1 (read that point one) grams per gallon, or about 5% of what
it used to be.  Guess it does maybe still make a difference but for
me its easier to use a little CD2, Bardahl's, or the like.  In fact I use
the occasional gallon of VP118 in a half tank of Unleaded Premium,
it has 4 grams per gallon which doesnt dillute to any big numbers,
but the octane boost is appreciated by the 10.25 compression...TIM

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 23:40:32 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Mannix mobile

A short time ago, there was discussion about the TV show Mannix, in
which he drove a customized Toro.  I was looking at a George Barris book
about his cars, and there it was!!  And something I wasn't even aware
of, that the Beverly Hillbillies used a 1921 Olds touring car as a base
for their truck.

I scanned some new pics for the Rocket Time Machine section of my Web
page.  Included new are Mannix's car, the "modified" 442-engined Jethro
truck from the series (Granny drags against him in the "stock" truck and
wins).  I also threw in the section of the 84 H/O Lightning Rod
operation section of the brochure.

I'm also interested in any Oldsmobile advertisements anyone is willing
to throw my way to be included there in the future.

Check it out at http://pages.prodigy.net/mrothe/rocket.html
Then go near the bottom of the page and click on the 71 442 dash emblem.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 23:55:50 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: aol blows, need help

Not really, AOL entered a corporate trade with World Com.  Compuserve was
just a small part of the deal.  AOL has no choice but to improve it's
capability, (God knows it can't get much worse).  Besides, if compuserve
goes to hell like AOL, I'll simply switch.  Many more providers exist
than the few advertised on the major networks!


On Sat, 20 Sep 1997, AllNiteLng@aol.com wrote:
>America Offline just bought Compuserve so you are right back in the same
>boat, huh?
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 23:40:02 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: MECHANICAL: Ignition key runs door?

On Sat, 20 Sep 1997, Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com> wrote:
>Eric Aksomitis wrote:
>>
>> I just bought me a new 72, and the ignition key opens the drivers
>> door lock!!
>
>This is correct.
>
>> (The normal key will not even fit)
>
>What do you mean by "the normal key"?
>You should have a square key that unlocks the doors ~and~ works in the
>ignition.  The round key is for the trunk and glove compartment.
>
>--
>Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
>71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
>


Hmmm... I disagree.  The "square headed" key normally operates the
ignition only, the "round headed" key operates the doors, trunk, and
glove box/console locks.  Been this way since GM switched to sidebar
locks with multiple keyways per car.  ex. "B" & "C" keyways are used on
my 71 4-4-2.  My 72 cutlass "S" was set up the same way.  (Square key
ignition only)  Today's cars are the same, only the ignition locks have
changed slightly.

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 22:52:55 -0500
From: Charles Lundin <cblundin@flash.net>
Subject: 77 Cutlass..Wheel Bearing Noise?

1977 Cutlass Supreme has had new overhauled brakes ( 4 months old) and
bearings replaced about 18,000 miles ago. Sound of a sort of metal
rubbing during left and right turns when moving, but no sound when
simply turning wheels lock to lock. Using sandard size tires so
definitely have adequate clearance on tires. Any body have experience
with symptoms or similar? Is it a difficult job to inspect inner and
outer bearings and if so what should i look for?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 00:05:42 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: 72 Cutlass -Supreme body style

Following ad is in this week's Auto Trader:

72 Olds Cutlass, 350 rocket motor, AT, AC, many new parts, posi rear
end, $995 firm.  (716) 436-7891  ROCHESTER, NY area according to my area
code list

Usual disclaimers, don't know the people, don't know the car, ain't
gonna make no money on it.  Just thought someone might be interested and
it did look like a good deal.  Otherwise hope everyone is having a good
weekend.

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, Ky

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 23:35:19 -0400
From: "Eric T. Brubakken" <ebrubak@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: TicTocTac Tec

AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com wrote:
>
> Anybody using a stock tac with msd, and if so for how long and what kind of
> MSD. Thanks joe
I've been using a MSD5 on my 67 Cutlass with Rocket Rally Pack since
about 1980.  Tac works, but has never been very accurate, even without
the MSD5.

Eric Brubakken
ebrubak@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 23:56:57 -0400
From: "Eric T. Brubakken" <ebrubak@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: 67 Cutlass Cruise Control

This is just for my own information.  But what might a factory cruise
control for a 67 Cutlass be worth.  It is all there and DOES work.  The
servo (bellows) does leak some.

Thanks

Eric Brubakken
ebrubak@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 03:56:01 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: My 455 ª's (block ID's)

>>> 1) In the lifter bore galley, there was a metal "tray" (for lack of a 
better
>>> term) that bolted to the top of the block, in between the lifter bores, and
>>> it covered the opening that exposes the camshaft.  This was just a
suprise to
>>> find.  Looks stock, is it just to keep crap off the cam, and give 
sufficient
>>> oil drainback?
>>
>>I found one of these last year in my 350 also. Since I was replacing the
>>intake gaskets with the big turkey tray style it didn't go back in (they

No, I know the tray you're talking about, a skinny little deal running up
between the lifters, about a 1/2" above the lifter galley surface. My '70
455 had one of those too; it is stock, and about the only conceivable
function might be to keep valvetrain parts off the cam and out of the
crankcase if you really blow things up.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 03:55:58 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Cleaning electrical connections

>  During the process of hooking up some necessary electrical components
>(light bulbs, that kinda thing) I've come across lots of connectors on the
>wiring harnesses that could use a little cleaning..  Is there some special
>technique that one might use to clean the connectors in these small places?
> Also, is there any cleaning solution that would aid this process?  Thanks.

I haven't found a solution that would remove the corrosion, but I've had
success with sanding the contacts. The external tangs are easy enough; just
bend a small piece of sandpaper over the tip of a screwdriver, and sand
away. For the insides of the connectors, I fold the sandpaper over itself a
couple times until it is small enough to fit in the connector, and rigid
enough not to bend. It's tedious this way, but it gets the job done. I give
it a shot of electrical contact cleaner and a dab of vaseline before I
reassemble it. I haven't found any dielectric (sp?) grease at the auto
stores, so that's what I've been working with.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 03:55:56 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: AOL is cool!.....RCKTPWR ==>not!!!!!

>What does Honda got to do with AOL?  stay to the issue...

Please uns*bscr*be me from the "AOL is cooler than Honda" list. I must have
mistakenly been added to the list when trying to join an Oldsmobile
discussion group...
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 00:12:12 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: MECHANICAL: Ignition key runs door?

RC, disagree if you want to, but I'm disagreeing with you somewhat.
Where did you get the incorrect B/C keyways for your 71 anyway?  All my
cars have the original locks in them, and my 71 and 85 442s use the same
A/B setup.  The 69 uses an E/H.  On both the 69 and 71, the ignition key
operates the doors and ignition locks, and the round head operates the
rest of the locks. (Says so in the operating manuals too.) The round B
key operates the doors on the 85, as you described, with the A key only
for the ignition. At least you live the luxury of not having to worry
about remembering to hold the pushbutton in when locking the car, like
the 69 A-bodies.  Otherwise, it pops back open, preventing the
embarrassing
just-as-your-letting-the-door-go-you-notice-the-keys-in-the-ignition
syndrome.  You may want to check yours again.  You're supposed to have
the A/Bs, unless someone changed them.

Mike Rothe

> Hmmm... I disagree.  The "square headed" key normally operates the
> ignition only, the "round headed" key operates the doors, trunk, and
> glove box/console locks.  Been this way since GM switched to sidebar
> locks with multiple keyways per car.  ex. "B" & "C" keyways are used > on my
71 4-4-2.  My 72 cutlass "S" was set up the same way.  (Square > key ignition
only)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 00:23:30 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 77 Cutlass..Wheel Bearing Noise?

Is it a difficult job to inspect inner and
> outer bearings and if so what should i look for?

Not too difficult if you can change disc brakes.  (You'll need to remove
the caliper to get the disc rotor free). Obviously, you want to check to
see if the bearings are loose.  The preload adjustment from factory
specs are a guess at best.  If the bearings weren't fully seated when
they put the cotter key in, they will definitely be too loose and the
wheel will wobble too much.  You can take the wheel bearings out and
inspect them, but you will also need to replace the dust seal on the
back regardless if you pop the inner bearing out.  Look for heavy
scoring, proper amount of lube (yes, they can have TOO much grease
packed in there causing overheating and failure), and any discoloration
on bearings or race.  Check a tech reference for more info.  There's too
much to list here.  Any specific questions you can e-mail me directly.

My suggestion is, go to the auto parts store, get new bearings and races
and new dust seals.  Then take apart the bearings for inspection.  If
they are toast, you'll have the new stuff on hand.  Of course, if they
only need to be tightened, then tighten them up and take the unused
parts back for a refund, or keep them for the next time you do this job.

2 pennies' worth
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 00:33:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: MECHANICAL: Ignition key runs door?

In a message dated 97-09-20 23:43:05 EDT, you write:

<<      I think the change to different keys for the doors and the
      ignition had some sort of anti-theft intent.  Apparently it
      was felt that by requiring two keys to start the car (one to
      unlock the door and one to work the ignition), the car was
      less prone to being stolen.  Obviously, whoever thought this
      up had never heard of the slim jim and the slide hammer!

      Joe Padavano
      padavano.joe@orbital.com
      >>
Hey Joe they dont even waste their time with slide hammers now,
just a screw driver and the cars running and gone....

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 04:30:27 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: MECHANICAL: Ignition key runs door?

>I just bought me a new 72, and the ignition key opens the drivers
>door lock!!
>(The normal key will not even fit)

That's because the ignition key *is* the normal door key on the '72 (as well
as on my '69 and '70). The round key only opens the trunk, glovebox and
console, if so equipped. On the '72 Vista I parted, the square key also
opened the tailgate, since it is considered a "door", so the only thing the
round key was good for was the glove compartment. Odd...

>What give's here, could they get this done on purpose?  My main concern
>is that one winter day NO key will open the lock.  (The trunck is also
>still opened by the factory lock)?

This was done on purpose. Actually, I don't quite know the purpose behind
two different keys for a car; theft deterrent of a sort, I guess. I'd
actually like to have all my cars' locks keyed alike, so I could have just
one key for all the doors and trunks (not a problem, since I'm never selling
them... :).
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 00:44:30 -0400
From: John Klepacz <Jklepacz@apollotrust.com>
Subject: unsubscribe

unsubscribe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 10:04:37 -0800
From: Dan Lacey <lacey@dsea.com>
Subject: Re: HEI Conversion

>At 12:26 AM 9/19/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>In a message dated 97-09-18 22:27:22 EDT, you write:
>>
>><< I've done all of mine by getting swap meet units and rebuilding them with
>> MSD coil, module, cap, rotor, and button.  I always put an adjustable vacuum
>> advance unit on there too (Crane was what I used last time).
>> Bob
>> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>>  Robert J. Lavey      >>
>>
>>Hey Bob, just curious how much you have in one when its done?
>>
>
>I happen to have an invoice from MSD for the parts in my '68 442 convertible:
>  coil:                     66.90
>  module:                   76.00
>  low resistance bushing:    8.60
>  cap:                      16.00
>  rotor:                     4.30
>
>Then I got the vacuum advance unit and an MSD wire set from Summit; that was
>about $75.00.  So, with the price of the HEI unit itself, it totals nearly
>$300.
>There are probably (ok, certainly!) cheaper ways of going, but I have had
>real good success.  YMMV.
>
>Bob


You pay a price for getting EXACTLY what you want... Been there, and go
back quite often...

On the other hand, you can walk into Kragen and PepBoys and walk out with a
rebuilt HEI, Cap, Rotor (Not sure if I asked for wires) for about $160
(there is a $40 core charge). Add $7 for a cheap advance kit (who makes an
excellant advance kit!???).

I plan on buying one of those chrome things to replace the stock air filter
just in case the new HEI bumps into the stock air filter.

As for MSD, I will eventually put in an MSD-6AL, so the HEI coil should be
fine...


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 00:54:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: MECHANICAL: Ignition key runs door?

In a message dated 97-09-21 00:05:33 EDT, you write:

<< "B" & "C" keyways are used on
 my 71 4-4-2.  My 72 cutlass "S" was set up the same way.  (Square key
 ignition only)  Today's cars are the same, only the ignition locks have
 changed slightly.

 RC Hellebuyck
  >>
my 71 and 72s used C and "D" keys....  my 62 uses A and B

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 00:59:28 -0400 (EDT)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: 72 Cutlass -Supreme body style

In a message dated 97-09-21 00:22:03 EDT, you write:

<< 72 Olds Cutlass, 350 rocket motor, AT, AC, many new parts, posi rear
 end, $995 firm.  (716) 436-7891  ROCHESTER, NY area according to my area
 code list

 Usual disclaimers, don't know the people, don't know the car, ain't
 gonna make no money on it.  Just thought someone might be interested and
 it did look like a good deal.  Otherwise hope everyone is having a good
 weekend.

 Don Sowers
  >>
Don are you sure you couldnt maybe go over take pictures get complete
description and history, test drive the car, negotiate the deal, take
delivery
and then maybe meet me half way say Indy? Course I wouldnt be upset if
ya went ahead and made it $999 firm......;-)).....TIM....ps...(lol?)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 23:58:52 -0500
From: "MiLiT@Nt1" <militant1@geocities.com>
Subject: In Search of a new gas tank

While on the freeway today, my '68 Delmont was assaulted by a piece of
retread off the truck in front of me, creating a large gash in the fuel
tank.  Does anyone know a good source for a new tank?  The car has a
rear (license plate) filler tube.

Thanks,
- --
MiliT@Nt1 <militant1@geocities.com>   '68 Delmont 88 - 455
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 01:23:42 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: KEY BLANK USAGE

Someone on the list said they were a locksmith or something.  What does
their references show?  My big book of everything lists GM key blank
usage as such, square/round:

Groove 50/51 (A/B)  years: 67, 71, 75, 79, and 83-86

Groove 54/55 (C/D)  years: 68, 72, 76, 80, and 87-90

Groove 56/57 (E/H)  years: 69, 73, 77, 81, and 91-on

Groove 58/59 (J/K)  years: 70, 74, 78, and 82

So far I personally have not found any factory-original locks on these
years to deviate from this list. And I've had a lot of 69s, 70s, 71s and
72s.   I strongly suggest you check the owner's manual to see what it
says.  I know my cars' manuals say this chart is correct.  It could be
true during close to model-year change things happened that may have put
different keys in the "wrong" car, since the factory was never really
any good at following their own protocol.

FWIW,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 02:15:40 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: 72 Cutlass -Supreme body style

Cnvrtbl442@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 97-09-21 00:22:03 EDT, you write:
>
> << 72 Olds Cutlass, 350 rocket motor, AT, AC, many new parts, posi rear
>  end, $995 firm.  (716) 436-7891  ROCHESTER, NY area according to my area
>  code list
>
>  Usual disclaimers, don't know the people, don't know the car, ain't
>  gonna make no money on it.  Just thought someone might be interested and
>  it did look like a good deal.  Otherwise hope everyone is having a good
>  weekend.
>
>  Don Sowers
>   >>
> Don are you sure you couldnt maybe go over take pictures get complete
> description and history, test drive the car, negotiate the deal, take
> delivery
> and then maybe meet me half way say Indy? Course I wouldnt be upset if
> ya went ahead and made it $999 firm......;-)).....TIM....ps...(lol?)

Hey Tim,

Just saw it in the Trader distributed in the Lexington, Ky area and
thought someone might be interested.  HOWEVER, for a reasonable hourly
fee ($20/hour for semi-intelligent car shopping versus tax season rates
substantially higher due to wife's position of make money or else, plus
expenses) anything is possible.  Do you also want it washed and waxed or
just swept out really good?  Just kidding Tim.  Messing with cars is my
hobby, professional lying (tax consultation, preparation, etc.) is the
means of being able to mess with my hobby.  Wish I could make enough
money to survive dealing with some aspect of the automobile industry.
At least that way I would feel I was contributing something worthwhile
to society.  As it is, if nobody sees the work I do more than once
before the statute of limitations runs out, I have done my job well.  At
that point, nobody cares what I did.  They are just happy I did it.  Not
exactly a landmark for the ages, huh?

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, Ky

BTW, what's a lol?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 02:26:48 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Olds list lingo

Don Sowers wrote:
> >
> BTW, what's a lol?

Acronyms.

Just like BTW means "By the way"

'lol' means in 'puter lingo "Laughing out loud."

'ROTFLMAO' means "rolling on the floor, laughing my a*s off" (means you
think it's funnier than a "lol")

and 442 means four-barrel carb, four-speed transmission, and dual
exhaust.

(threw that last one in there to make it Olds related, so Greg won't get
P.O.'d)  <----- bet you can guess what this one means....

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 00:42:12 -0600
From: Terrance Rohner <tthiel@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Olds list lingo

Mike Rothe wrote:
>
> Don Sowers wrote:
> > >
> > BTW, what's a lol?
>
> Acronyms.
>
> Just like BTW means "By the way"
>
> 'lol' means in 'puter lingo "Laughing out loud."
>
> 'ROTFLMAO' means "rolling on the floor, laughing my a*s off" (means you
> think it's funnier than a "lol")
>
> and 442 means four-barrel carb, four-speed transmission, and dual
> exhaust.

> Only in the Ealy years.



> (threw that last one in there to make it Olds related, so Greg won't get
> P.O.'d)  <----- bet you can guess what this one means....
>
> Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 00:52:08 -0600 (MDT)
From: bhorn@tnc.com (Beverley Horn)
Subject: Re: 12 sec rocket in RI

>kevin hawkins wrote:
>>
>> RCKTPWR@aol.com wrote:
>> >
>> > how bout the stats on that 12 sec rocket??
>> >
>> > bernie nj
>> 72 olds weights 3660  runs 12.52 106mph  400 850 carb  3200 stall speed
>> 4.10 rearend gears
>what do u want to know
>

What did u do to the engine??(bore, stroke?)

Shayne Horn
70 Rallye350
85 442

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 02:52:35 -0400
From: jprand@juno.com
Subject: need advice...

There's a guy selling his cutlass, it's an '85 cutlass (I think
brougham or however u spell it). The body is in decent shape, interior as
well. Has blown 6 cylinder and blown 3 spd auto. What I'm thinking of
doing is to put a 350 rocket I have in it and mount a Turbo 350 to it.
(also with some others mods, but these are the major conversions I want
to do with it) Here's the question- before I buy it, can anyone tell me
if it is possible to do this and how hard will it be. The thing is if the
headache factor will be big, I'll ditch the whole idea. Opinions??

Jim Rand

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 03:02:30 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: need advice...

Get the V8 stuff like motor mounts, radiator, and stuff, and it will
bolt in like it was meant to go there.  This will not be a straight
swap.  If it had a V8 before, it'd be so simple you'd shoot yourself for
not having it completed right now.

2 cents,
Mike Rothe

 What I'm thinking of
> doing is to put a 350 rocket I have in it and mount a Turbo 350 to it.
> (also with some others mods, but these are the major conversions I want
> to do with it) Here's the question- before I buy it, can anyone tell me
> if it is possible to do this and how hard will it be.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 05:00:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: 67 Cutlass Cruise Control

In a message dated 97-09-21 00:11:52 EDT, you write:

<< This is just for my own information.  But what might a factory cruise
 control for a 67 Cutlass be worth.  It is all there and DOES work.  The
 servo (bellows) does leak some. >>

i dont know there $$ but i got 1, and havent seen a 67 a-body with it.....yet
bernie.....i love this reply after ques, much better!!!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 05:06:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: AOL is cool!.....RCKTPWR ==>not!!!!!

In a message dated 97-09-21 00:22:01 EDT, you write:

<< Please uns*bscr*be me from the "AOL is cooler than Honda" list. I must
have
 mistakenly been added to the list when trying to join an Oldsmobile
 discussion group...
 _________________ >>

I wont let u go, ive seen to many of yr replies to peoples ques, yr vry
oldslitteret!!
 Your the one who told me about rear disc on my 67!!
bernie and my new comp skill!!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 05:09:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: 12 sec rocket in RI

In a message dated 97-09-21 02:46:31 EDT, you write:

<< What did u do to the engine??(bore, stroke?)
  >>
YEH, HOW ABOUT IT?? damn caps lock button!!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 08:50:09 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: '78 Delta Dash Lights

On Sat, 20 Sep 1997, Paul Hartlieb wrote:
> Isn't that a radio-type bulb?  One contact with the two knobs towards
> the bottom.  Sounds like something that could be used in the ashtray
> too.

Yeah, possibly so. Might be the little light in the switch itself. The
service manual is vague, just says "accessory switches". Since they don't
even mention the heater control bulb, I guess that part of the manual is
questionable at best...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 12:05:48 +0000
From: clarence wirtz <cw63nova@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: 72 Cutlass -Supreme body style

At 06:15 AM 9/21/97 +0000, you wrote:
>Cnvrtbl442@aol.com wrote:
>>
>> In a message dated 97-09-21 00:22:03 EDT, you write:
>>
>> << 72 Olds Cutlass, 350 rocket motor, AT, AC, many new parts, posi rear
>>  end, $995 firm.  (716) 436-7891  ROCHESTER, NY area according to my area
>>  code list
>>
>>  Usual disclaimers, don't know the people, don't know the car, ain't
>>  gonna make no money on it.  Just thought someone might be interested and
>>  it did look like a good deal.  Otherwise hope everyone is having a good
>>  weekend.
>>
>>  Don Sowers
>>   >>
>> Don are you sure you couldnt maybe go over take pictures get complete
>> description and history, test drive the car, negotiate the deal, take
>> delivery
>> and then maybe meet me half way say Indy? Course I wouldnt be upset if
>> ya went ahead and made it $999 firm......;-)).....TIM....ps...(lol?)
>
>Hey Tim,
>
>Just saw it in the Trader distributed in the Lexington, Ky area and
>thought someone might be interested.  HOWEVER, for a reasonable hourly
>fee ($20/hour for semi-intelligent car shopping versus tax season rates
>substantially higher due to wife's position of make money or else, plus
>expenses) anything is possible.  Do you also want it washed and waxed or
>just swept out really good?  Just kidding Tim.  Messing with cars is my
>hobby, professional lying (tax consultation, preparation, etc.) is the
>means of being able to mess with my hobby.  Wish I could make enough
>money to survive dealing with some aspect of the automobile industry.
>At least that way I would feel I was contributing something worthwhile
>to society.  As it is, if nobody sees the work I do more than once
>before the statute of limitations runs out, I have done my job well.  At
>that point, nobody cares what I did.  They are just happy I did it.  Not
>exactly a landmark for the ages, huh?
>
>Don Sowers
>Nicholasville, Ky
>
>BTW, what's a lol?
>
laugh out loud

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 09:16:28 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: '78 Delta - Parts Request

On Sat, 20 Sep 1997, Mike Hall wrote:
> Here is what $69 buckaroos bought me today:
> - 85' Gage pack for Eighty Eight series cars, I find these to be fairly
> rare, are they?

I would think so. I have one available to me here locally, dunno how much
he wants for it yet. The same guy also has a red tilt-tele column setup
complete with steering wheel out of a '78 he's trying to tempt me with. On
the gage pack, it seems those have a 2-piece dash surround unlike the
one-piece used on cars without it. Did you get both pieces? I haven't
followed up on it yet since it seems like a bit of a pain with new sending
units, etc. Be neat to have though.

> - LH/RH front armrest pads.
> - LH/RH rear armrest pads.

Still looking for those here...

> - Four perfect chrome trim pieces (about the door handles).

A neat option to look for in a yard would be the door handle exterior
courtesy lights, the ones that come on when you pull on the handle.
Haven't seen those yet anywhere. My handles are somewhat pitted so if I
see a set with those, they're mine! Along with a set of red Royale seats,
preferably power... :)

BTW, today I saw a '79 Delta sedan in a repair shop lot here. Hasn't been
licensed in a couple of years, is in rough shape, and I can't imagine them
doing much with it other than parting it out. Interesting in that it is a
total stripper. NO options I could see... manual outside mirror (never saw
one of them before on these cars), no rear defog or cruise so it had no
opening in the dash for those switches, even a radio delete plate! I
thought that an AM radio was standard in these so it might have been
special ordered without one.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 09:17:39 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: "Baffled" (was: My 455 ª's (block ID's))

On Sat, 20 Sep 1997, padavano.joe wrote:
>      You are referring to part number 391116, Baffle, Intake Manifold Oil.
>      This was used on every big block Olds from at least 1966 on.  It is a
>      stamped sheet metal part, about an inch or so wide, and is retained
>      with two hex-head screws.  The purpose is to prevent oil from directly
>      splashing up from the cam.  Note that big blocks have a large opening
>      in the casting above the cam, while small blocks do not.  This baffle
>      _was_ used in conjunction with the sheet metal intake gasket.

That sounds like the item, but on a 350 at least it won't coexist with
the sheetmetal intake gasket. Not enough height in the block.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 08:59:34 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: MECHANICAL: Ignition key runs door?

You may want to check yours again.  You're supposed to have
>the A/Bs, unless someone changed them.>

obviously, they must have!  Well time to add some more goodies to the shopping
list!  Just when I think I'm getting close to the end, I find more little
things.

Thanks Mike.

RC

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 09:05:21 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: MECHANICAL: Ignition key runs door?

Ok know I'm confused!

Mike says a 71' should have A & B keyways, you say C & D

Which one(s) is it?

RC

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 09:16:23 -0400
From: "Robert Nevins" <nevinsr@voyager.net>
Subject: Something wrong?

Is there something wrong?  This is the last message I received.

- ----------
> From: WKBZZZZ@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: U-joint Strap for '70 SX
> Date: Monday, September 15, 1997 8:57 AM
>
> Is there something special about these u bolts? could you use the ones
from
> any cutlass rear? if so i have a couple orignals (70's) laying around i
would
> part with. we are tailking about the two u-bolts that hold the u-joint to
the
> rear?
>
> Keith Brumbley
> 71 442 conv.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 09:37:12 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: is this good $ for 73 H/O?

There's a 1973 H/O for sale in my area.  Since I know nothing about the
1973 or H/O models, I need help determining if the "price is right"?

This guy is the second owner. Clear title, FL car.  Frame is straight &
no accidents that the guy knows of.  It cold started really good.
Idled a little high once warmed up but runs smooth.  Trans seemed to
shift quickly between reverse and drive, (with my foot on brake).
Rides real nice!  Shocks & suspension seem good but it pulls a little
to pass side. (alignment I'm sure).  Doesn't pull while braking.  We
drove about three miles and stopped to put gas in it.  Started perfect
while hot.  Stock temp. gauge; ran just below mid mark.  Stock oil
gauge; needle on middle mark in drive with foot on brake.  While
driving the oil gauge bounces around a little, (maybe bad sending
unit).  Going about 35mph, I floored it; would not kick down to
second but I manually put it in second and it performed nice.  However
it has a whistle when you get on it.  He said it's the alternator.??
Steering seems good & the car feels solid overall at 70 mph.
A/C doesn't work.

Brought to Michigan around late eighties.  Stored for six years in
garage. white body with 3/4 white vinyl top.  Top is ok, but has a 3"
cut under back window.  Gold decal stripe with black framing all the
way down both sides.  Gold 14", SSII wheels with center caps.  great
shape.  Hood has the louvers in middle and a hole for the ornament, but
no hood ornament.  Found a little bondo on drivers rear quarter, (in
front of wheel).  Small rust hole, (about 10" in diameter), in
drivers-side, rear floor.  He didn't realize this!  When I found it, he
got really bummed out.  I would definitely make a big deal out of this
if I go back. It's really not that bad.  Rest of floor pan looked good.
Trunk pan and lid were excellent but needs new foam seal for trunk.  Oh
yea, it has an original spare tire!  (Forgot to see if jack was there,
etc.)  Bottom seal on doors looked great!  Overall the body has small
bubbles here & there, but I didn't see anything major.  Paint is a
cheap job but it looks ok.  All glass looks good, no cracks.  Rear side
windows were missing outside trim.  It has white caulking around glass.
Front quarters has "Cutlass S" on both sides.  Interior is the best
thing about this car!  It really looks great, completely stock! :)
Carpeting is so-so, Driver's seat seams are ripped in about five spots,
(small).  Rest of seats are ok.  Fabric on rear window sill will need
to be replaced.  All speakers work.  Only thing else bad about inside
is that the plastic "plate" that runs in-between the dash and
windshield has a "fixable crack" between the defroster vent and
driver's side speaker grill, (I almost didn't see this).  Headliner
real good.  When closing both doors;  driver's side sounds just a
little loose, passenger side sounds real solid.  That
little rubber strip, (on the outside), that's on the door between the
window rubber and the door edge needs to be replaced on both sides.

Engine looks somewhat clean with only minor valve cover leaks.  Both
valve covers are blue with "Oldsmobile" embossed in them.  All & all
engine looks and sounds great.  Good response.  All stock, nothing
missing!  For once, the grill is solid no cracks I seen.  Even heat
pipe is there, although rusted a little.  Q-jet carb, cast intake.  I
couldn't really tell what the block color was.  Misc. hose have been
replaced, along with water pump, (it was a reddish orange color, but
just the water pump).  Also, new top radiator hose.

Both bumpers will need re-chroming but are solid.  Both rear fender
wells looked good too.


engine is 455 4/bl with 400 auto trans
dual gate shifter, (only a few bubbles on the plastic chrome). EC
A/C and not too many other options
According to him, 1 of 1,050 built & all numbers match
actual miles after I drove it: 78,176.8  original so he says
swivel bucket seats (never saw these before, cool!)
14" SSII wheels with beauty rings in EC, will need tires
dual exhaust, old but seemed solid, no leaks
stock am/fm radio
stock gauges
rally sport steering wheel, (forgot to test horn, damn!)
Front disc brakes
3:23 10 bolt-posi rear end, stock according to him
casting number just behind water pump says:  396021 F
Both heads are "F"
D55 option

I looked up vin and body tag, all numbers match what the car is.  Only
ª I couldn't see was the block, (because of the A/C).

The guys asking $4,500. or best.  I know he'll take $4,000. (because of
floor hole)  I'm thinking of offering him $3,000. and dealing from
there.  Does this sound good or no?  Thanks for any feedback!

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 09:49:06 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: KEY BLANK USAGE

On Sun, 21 Sep 1997, Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net> wrote:
>Someone on the list said they were a locksmith or something.>

Yea that would be me.  As posted earlier, "part-time locksmith" not
expert.



<What does their references show?  My big book of everything lists GM key
blank usage as such, square/round:
>
>Groove 50/51 (A/B)  years: 67, 71, 75, 79, and 83-86
>
>Groove 54/55 (C/D)  years: 68, 72, 76, 80, and 87-90
>
>Groove 56/57 (E/H)  years: 69, 73, 77, 81, and 91-on
>
>Groove 58/59 (J/K)  years: 70, 74, 78, and 82
>


My 71' & 72' owners manuals say the same.  With your record Mike, I'll
take your word for it!  I double checked, my 71 doors & ignition are both
"C".  Trunk and everything else "B".  On second thought I can live with
this.  After all I'm not trying to make a concourse car!

RC (part-time) Hellebuyck  :)


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 10:31:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: IBDEA@aol.com
Subject: Re: Fall Carlise

I've got a perfect wife too!! She spent yesterday afternoon at the junkyard
with me pulling a set of B heads.Going back next week to pull the motor out
of a 68 Toro with C heads.

         BOB PETERS

         67 442
         67 CUTLASS
         72 CUTLASS S

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 10:38:33 -0400
From: kevin hawkins <hawk455@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: 12 sec rocket in RI

Beverley Horn wrote:
>
> >kevin hawkins wrote:
> >>
> >> RCKTPWR@aol.com wrote:
> >> >
> >> > how bout the stats on that 12 sec rocket??
> >> >
> >> > bernie nj
> >> 72 olds weights 3660  runs 12.52 106mph  400 850 carb  3200 stall speed
> >> 4.10 rearend gears
> >what do u want to know
> >
>
> What did u do to the engine??(bore, stroke?)
>
> Shayne Horn
> 70 Rallye350
> 85 442
steel crank virgin,trwpiston 350 standard because 400 have snall pistons
boarded .058 over to fit 350  standarded piston 7 1/6 rod bolts lunati
cam,harland sharp roller rockers head ported and studed cloyes roller
timing chain hooker headers torker intake custom push rods msd
ingnition
 kevin hawkins 72
olds street car et 12.52
106 mph

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 10:41:10 -0400
From: kevin hawkins <hawk455@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: 12 sec rocket in RI

RCKTPWR@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 97-09-21 02:46:31 EDT, you write:
>
> << What did u do to the engine??(bore, stroke?)
>   >>
> YEH, HOW ABOUT IT?? damn caps lock button!!
steel crank virgin  350 pistons to fit in 400 after board .058

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 10:56:05 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: update info on 73 H/O

my finger slipped!  The heads are NOT "F"

They are "J"

RC Hellebuyck

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 10:12:11 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: 72 Cutlass -Supreme body style

 Don,
As long as you're driving towards indy, I could meet you half way (say
"Scottsdale, IN), and give you $1001 for the car. not a bad deal seeing as
you only have to drive half as far.
Also just kidding.
you have a good weekend too.

Mick Gillespie, Columbus, Indiana
69 Cutlass S convertible
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm


><< 72 Olds Cutlass, 350 rocket motor, AT, AC, many new parts, posi rear
> end, $995 firm.  (716) 436-7891  ROCHESTER, NY area according to my area
> code list
> snip>
> Don Sowers
>  >>
>Don are you sure you couldnt maybe go over take pictures get complete
>description and history, test drive the car, negotiate the deal, take
>delivery
>and then maybe meet me half way say Indy? Course I wouldnt be upset if
>ya went ahead and made it $999 firm......;-)).....TIM....ps...(lol?)
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 10:17:42 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: '78 Delta - Parts Request

 This smells like "RESTORATION" to me.

Mick Gillespie, Columbus, Indiana
69 Cutlass S convertible
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm




>On Sat, 20 Sep 1997, Mike Hall wrote:
>> Here is what $69 buckaroos bought me today:
>> - 85' Gage pack for Eighty Eight series cars, I find these to be fairly
>> rare, are they?
<snip>
>A neat option to look for in a yard would be the door handle exterior
>courtesy lights, the ones that come on when you pull on the handle.
>Haven't seen those yet anywhere. My handles are somewhat pitted so if I
>see a set with those, they're mine! Along with a set of red Royale seats,
>preferably power... :)
>
>BTW, today I saw a '79 Delta sedan in a repair shop lot here. Hasn't been
>licensed in a couple of years, is in rough shape, and I can't imagine them
>doing much with it other than parting it out. Interesting in that it is a
>total stripper. NO options I could see... manual outside mirror (never saw
>one of them before on these cars), no rear defog or cruise so it had no
>opening in the dash for those switches, even a radio delete plate! I
>thought that an AM radio was standard in these so it might have been
>special ordered without one.
>
>Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 11:08:11 -0500
From: David Jennings <djenn@flash.net>
Subject: Unsubscribe

Please tell me how to unsubscribe from the Olds list. Too much traffic.
djenn@flash.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 12:11:18 -0400
From: John Klepacz <Jklepacz@apollotrust.com>
Subject: Re: update info on 73 H/O

How do I get off this mailing list?!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 12:21:49 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: KEY BLANK USAGE

All this talk about keys and such.....if anyone is interested, I believe
Pep Boys (if you have one near you) carries matched key sets for
doors/ignition (will fit 69s, but is of newer-type ignition
eared-escutcheon).  These would go perfect in the 71s. Also, as I was
perusing my new Au-ve-co catalog to see what they had, voila!  Briggs
and Stratton keys/cylinders, matched, empty sleeves, rebuild kits,
mid-80's glove box cylinders with escutcheon, and the works.  My
goodness they have blank keys for A-K too!  With GM logos, plain and
black plastic headed, for newer and older cars, resistor-types too, some
with Caddilac emblems, and even for those across-the-pond makes too.
I'm going to have to sit down and scope this catalog out closer.  Lots
of those sundry items....

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 13:02:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: DEOVIVERE@aol.com
Subject: Re: 12 bolt rear end

You wrote: "i recently purchased a 67 parts car for $75, it has a 12 bolt.  I
have no
idea if this is original for the car, or if it is a posi. can anyone help
me to identify what exactly i have?"


I have a 71 Cutlass Supreme SX with a 12 rear end and wonder the same thing.
 Someone indicated to me that it might not be original, but from a Chevy.   I
don't think so, but am not sure.  Any scoop out there for me?

Tom Simmons
71 SX

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 13:26:53 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: 12 bolt rear end

At 01:02 PM 9/21/97 -0400, you wrote:
To All

        12 Bolt Olds rears were used from 67-70. 67's were very wierd about
which rear came with them. All high perf cars (W-30's had P types 10 Bolt
rears) these were Pontiac versions with HD parts. Others had the 8.2 O type
rears. Then some of the cars had 12 Bolt O types installed. 68-70 most had
the O type 12 bolts. Lower HP versions could still get a 10 bolt type O.
71-72's ALL had 10 Corperate 8.5" rears installed. Including W-30's. 68-69
cars that were built in Canada had 12 Bolt C types (Chevy's) installed in
them. Lots of variants here. We are attempting to make a list of what came
in what, but there were differences depending on where the cars were
produced. We'll have more later.

Jim Chermack

>You wrote: "i recently purchased a 67 parts car for $75, it has a 12 bolt.  I
>have no
>idea if this is original for the car, or if it is a posi. can anyone help
>me to identify what exactly i have?"
>
>
>I have a 71 Cutlass Supreme SX with a 12 rear end and wonder the same thing.
> Someone indicated to me that it might not be original, but from a Chevy.   I
>don't think so, but am not sure.  Any scoop out there for me?
>
>Tom Simmons
>71 SX
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 19:42:56 +0200
From: "archy van wely" <usicon@pi.net>
Subject: vacuum delta 88 '76

I wonder if anyone can advice me on the miles of vacuum tube's on my delta
88.
I've had some information about the sensityvety of the system but I was
wondering if it is possible to shortcut the system in any way.
Offcourse without changing the carb.
I have really trouble with a cold start. Sometimes I have to pump the gas
about 20 times and still I have to start it 6 or 7 times.
Hope someone can help me.
Greetings from Holland.
Archy
delta 88 royale '76

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 14:07:00 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: '78 Delta - Parts Request

Interesting in that it is a
> total stripper. NO options I could see... manual outside mirror (never saw
> one of them before on these cars), no rear defog or cruise so it had no
> opening in the dash for those switches, even a radio delete plate! I
> thought that an AM radio was standard in these so it might have been
> special ordered without one.
>
> Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

Probably bought by somebody that didn't rock and roll or talk radio.
Was there anything else on back then? Roll 'n' roll is here to stay, I
wish talk radio would go AWAY.  Dysfunctional people talking about
dysfunctional problems to dysfunctional experts.  If they would buy a
classic car then they could talk about real problems, looking for parts,
looking for insurance, looking for electrical problems, etc.

Don Sowers

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 14:38:42 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: 12 sec rocket in RI

What carb do you use?
- ----------
>
> > Shayne Horn
> > 70 Rallye350
> > 85 442
> steel crank virgin,trwpiston 350 standard because 400 have snall pistons
> boarded .058 over to fit 350  standarded piston 7 1/6 rod bolts lunati
> cam,harland sharp roller rockers head ported and studed cloyes roller
> timing chain hooker headers torker intake custom push rods msd
> ingnition

> kevin hawkins
> 72 olds street car
> et 12.52 106 mph

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 09:55:20 -0500
From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Requirements

> Remember this...if leaded gas was so good, why did they get rid of it?

Tree hugging enviromentalist and Naders raiders who hate anything that
doesn't fit their ill concieved plot to deprive us of our rights to high
octane. The amount of lead exposure from car exhaust is insignificant
compared to other sources. Lead paint and lead solder for water pipes
have been phased out. Even todays engines require more octane than "pure
gasoline" has. They still put a lot of additives, some of which are
known or suspected carcinogens. Lead is poison but so is gas. The Naders
raiders and the Gores whores of the world will eventually outlaw all
internal combustion vehicles if we let them.

Leaded fuel has two compounds ethylene dichloride and ethylene bromide
which acts as a scavaging agent that allows the lead to be pushed out of
the engine and exhaust system without build up. Without these chemicals
lead would indeed build up.

Off the soap box

Danny

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 19:19:37 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: '78 Delta Dash Lights

On Sat, 20 Sep 1997, Paul Hartlieb wrote:
> I researched this a little more.  Where did you come with ª756?  I think
> that's the number for the bulb that lights up the little orange light in
> the switch, not the flood light.  My '78 owners manual says the Cruise
> Control Switch uses ª1895.

Spent the afternoon with the Delta replacing bulbs. Darn near everything
was burned out. The cruise floodlight bulb was indeed a ª756 originally.
Since I didn't have one I replaced it with a ª1893 which fit just as
well, and interestingly enough was the bulb used in the similar
floodlight right next door for the lighter which also wasn't working. The
clock light also got renewed and I found the light for the heater
controls as well. That one was totally burned to black inside. Then went
to the other side and pulled the wiper switch; it's bulb socket was
hanging loose behind the dash but was also burned out. Now I can hardly
wait for it to get dark and see how this looks all lit up!

I also tackled the trunk light today. It never worked and when I found the
lamp wire hanging with a bare end in the trunk well I realized why. But
the reason why it had failed was interesting. For the first time I
remember seeing in a vehicle, GM used solid (unstranded) aluminum wite to
feed power to the connector in the trunk. This sits down in the well on
the drivers side where water can drip on it if you have a bad trunk seal,
which mine had before I replaced it. The aluminum inside the connector had
corroded completely, to the point that all that remained was a greenish
goop inside a plastic shell. Hope the engineer who spec'ed the solid
aluminum wire was downsized in the 1980's. ;-) I eliminated the connector
since it was unsalvageable and just spliced the power and lamp wires
together and taped them up (hope that holds... don't want an open short in
the trunk!). Voila! Trunk is lit now too.

All in all, an electrifying day! :)

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 19:34:31 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: is this good $ for 73 H/O?

On Sun, 21 Sep 1997 mrhell@m1.sprynet.com wrote:
> shape.  Hood has the louvers in middle and a hole for the ornament, but
> no hood ornament.

Might be a chore finding one of those!! :)

> Found a little bondo on drivers rear quarter, (in
> front of wheel).  Small rust hole, (about 10" in diameter), in
> drivers-side, rear floor.  He didn't realize this!  When I found it, he
> got really bummed out.  I would definitely make a big deal out of this
> if I go back. It's really not that bad.  Rest of floor pan looked good.
> Trunk pan and lid were excellent but needs new foam seal for trunk.  Oh
> yea, it has an original spare tire!  (Forgot to see if jack was there,
> etc.)  Bottom seal on doors looked great!  Overall the body has small
> bubbles here & there, but I didn't see anything major.  Paint is a
> cheap job but it looks ok.

These '73 to '77 cars were bad rusters, seem to be worse that way than
the earlier models. Give it a good checking out before buying, especially
if there are bubbles and bondo already present.

> All glass looks good, no cracks.  Rear side
> windows were missing outside trim.  It has white caulking around glass.

Seem to also be a common problem with these. I think the trim is chrome
platic, not metal.

> When closing both doors;  driver's side sounds just a
> little loose, passenger side sounds real solid.  That
> little rubber strip, (on the outside), that's on the door between the
> window rubber and the door edge needs to be replaced on both sides.

Those are huge doors and windows, so they loosen up over time. My '77 was
loose within a couple of years. Not hard to fix, just a pain. Both the
inner foam roofrail glass weatherstip and those outside rubber-covered
window sweepers you described are problem areas on these cars. Mine were
shot within 5-6 years of new. The outside sweepers are metal  with a
rubber coating; once the rubber cracks, water gets to the metal core and
rots it out. I found a new pair in '84 for peanuts; imagine they are
harder to get now.

> swivel bucket seats (never saw these before, cool!)

Nice thing to have!

Your later message mentioned "J" heads. Were they around in '73? I
thought they were later. I remember Wes Fujii's '75 H/O had "G" heads,
but maybe he replaced them.

> The guys asking $4,500. or best.  I know he'll take $4,000. (because of
> floor hole)  I'm thinking of offering him $3,000. and dealing from
> there.  Does this sound good or no?  Thanks for any feedback!

Sounds like maybe a $3500-4000 car to me, but remember, I'm from the
place where people ask $1500 for parts cars, so what do I know? :) Sounds
like a nice car, good luck!

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 19:47:10 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: '78 Delta Remote Mirror

More on my ongoing non-restoration of the '78... the outside mirror on
this car has never been right. It looks like a Ch*vy piece, for one thing
(exactly like the one I recall from my '79 Impala, where the support
enters the back of the mirror case, not the bottom like other models). It
is corroded and pitted, and was cockeyed about 30 degreees downward to
boot. So, it had to go.

Over the last couple of months I picked up 2 junkyard remote mirrors in
good shape. Cost me $10 for the pair. Anyhow, after my success with the
lights today I figured I'd install one of these. No such luck. Even
though they look like they should fit, they don't. The studs on the
bottoms are in different places and neither those holes nor the bigger
center hole for the control cable match up with the ones on the Delta.
Why GM wouldn't have standardized on this escapes me. Of course, I only
found this out after I removed the old one.... :-(  Thankfully I only
suffered a few minor cuts and scratches on the inside of the door
sheetmetal wrestling with it.

After my discovery I replaced the old one and discovered why it was
cockeyed, at least... the gasket has an angle to it and was installed
wrong-way around. So at least my old mirror is level now and actually
works better as a result, but it still looks not so good, so if any of
you encounter a nice one... well, you know what to do. :)

Oh, and if any of you need a pair of driver's side remote mirrors for a
mid-80s Caprice, let me know...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 18:45:39 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: PARTS: New stuff

Hey All,

        We just got some really nice stuff in today.

66  442 Taillight Lens (very nice)  $75.00 pr
66  Cutlass/442 Side Chrome moldings (almost complete set) Inquire
66  400 "B" dash 1 heads (66 W-30, L-69) Big Valves (bare) $250.00
(3)  Sport Steering Wheels (black, nice centers, complete)  $150.00 ea
66-69  4 spd Console Top Plate w/glove box top (good to nice cond) $55.00
66-67 Glove Box Door (black, mint) $40.00
68  8-Track Unit (housing cracked, needs plastic one)  $65.00
68-69  Clock (don't know if it works, nice looking)  $35.00
69-72  Bench Seat Headrests (black, mint)  $45.00 pr
65 425 111089 Distributor  $20.00

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª860
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