To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #836


oldsmobile-digest     Saturday, September 6 1997     Volume 01 : Number 836



Re: advice on purchase of 442
Re: 1968 442 Bucket Seat Interchange
Re: Heat Leaks
Re: Brake Problems
Re: Brake Problems
Re: Brake Problems
Re: 8 Track player question
Re: CD-ROM with Olds List Digest, Etc.
Re: Pertronix vs HEI
Re: Carburetor number
Re: Olds delta 88 royale town sedan 1976 (help)
Rare 88s and 98s
My '70 Cutlass
Re: Plastic Chrome
Re: Plastic Chrome
Re: 68 Cutlass Parts
Re: NAOC (long)
Re: Brake Problems
Re[2]: 1968 442 Bucket Seat Interchange
PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale
Re: Mike's 88 oil pressure
RE: RE:Drum brake problem
Re[2]: NAOC (long)
Re: 69 H/O Fire Frost paint-coming soon to a paint store near you!
Johnny Lightning Bargains
Re: '64 VIN decode
Re: SB 42 update
330 Problems
NAOC (long-not any more)
Re: Johnny Lightning Bargains
Re: Drum brake problem02
cams, carbs, and heads?
Re: 442's at Lansing on the Bridge & hot starts
Re: 70 Rallye Info Needed!!!
Power Window Switches
Re: Power Window Switches
Re: cams, carbs, and heads?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 15:44:00 -0500
From: david wyatt <Wyatt_David_L@LILLY.COM>
Subject: Re: advice on purchase of 442

I lost Ed's e-mail he sent and therefore have no other way to reply,
sorry.  (My fingers have subdued my desire to be a brain surgeon)

Check Brycemans web page and the Olds faq for clubs, sites, suppliers,
etc. for Oldsmobiles.  I do not have the number for Dr. Decal with me.
Mark Cornea is on this list at various times, so maybe he could respond
or some of the other good folks might have his number at hand.

Ed also mentioned Bumper Boyz in his note.  I seem to remember much
discussion about them some time ago.  I don't recall it being positive.

Year One and Fusick are reputable suppliers that I have dealt with.

There are three types of bodies available for 1970 4-4-2s.  The hardtop
Holliday Coupe, the sedan Sports Coupe, and the Convertible.  If you
look in the registry on Brycemans page you will see the differences.
My car is a Holiday Coupe with no frames around the door windows.
Chris sparks has a 68 Sports Coupe with the frames.  The convertible
needs no explanation.

Have a great weekend,
Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 16:52:48 -0400 (EDT)
From: BobH592058@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1968 442 Bucket Seat Interchange

<<They would look OK, but the vinyl grain is different, and the 72 has
headrests, where the 68 does not (unless that was a 68 option, but I
don't believe so). >>

Head rests were an option at least back to 67 and I _think_ even 66.  They
look quite a bit different than 68+ versions.  Since they were an option they
are pretty hard to find. 66-70 was the time a bunch of the early "safety"
requirements were being phased in.  For instance, 67 was the first model year
to have mandatory padded dash, 4-way flashers, driver's side out side mirror,
back-up lights, collapsible steering column, lane change position for the
turn signals and maybe some others I can't remember.  Head rests were
available but not mandatory for '67 however.

Bob Handren (AKA MajorDOMA)
OCA/OCFª 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 16:00:16 -0500
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Subject: Re: Heat Leaks

> Kinda looked there, brake seal and steering column seal look OK.  It's not
> the headlight switch, it's the metal part of the dash and a lot of heat
> coming from somewhere.  I can actually rev the engine and momentarily
incease
> the air through the firewall  - or wherever it is coming from.

Is the windshield wiper switch in that area? The wipers are on a circuit
breaker; a short (such as in the wiper switch) will cause the breaker to
cycle on and off, as opposed to a fused circuit which simply blows out
and stays that way, meaning that a defective wiper switch will get and
keep enough current flowing to heat itself quite nicely. Just a thought...

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 17:13:17 -0400
From: Rick Anderson <randerson@voyager.net>
Subject: Re: Brake Problems

I want to put fron't disks on my Jetstar, but my father (and half-owner)
feels that it is unnecessary and a waste of money.  I'm not concerned
about originality as long as it looks fairly stock on the outside.(we're
going for the sleeper effect).  He doesn't understand that if you hop up
the engine and driveline you should also beef up the brakes.

What does the front disk setup cost these days?

Thanks for the info

Rick Anderson
Clarkston, MI
65 Jetstar I w/ 455

Christian Fair wrote:
>
> When my 66 98 had the 4 wheel drum setup and single master you have, they
> were touchy too. Should be touchier when cold, mine loosened up when warmed
> up. I always liked the lack of pedal travel. I got much more travel when I
> swapped over to dual master and front discs, which is an option for you, if
> you're into it, from a $ and originality perspective.
>
> At the very least from a safety perspective, you should switch the master
> to a dual circuit system, much safer. When you blow a hose you don't lose
> _a_l_l_ your braking, only half. IMHO, anyway.
>
> The way I did this was to swap in a 70 front disc setup. Swap everything
> between the A-Arms plus the hydraulics. I can give you much more detail on
> this if needed.
>
> cf
>
> >On my 65 Jetstar I the brakes (power w/4 drums) are really touchy.  I
> >mean really really touchy.  I have locked all 4 up while stopping on
> >occasion, especially if you need to stop fairly quickly.  This is
> >especially annoying at low speed.  When I'm rolling along at idle it is
> >hard to slow down without immediately stopping.  It feels as though
> >there is too much power assist.  Is there any way to adjust the assist
> >on power brakes?
> >
> >Thank You.
> >Rick Anderson
> >Clarkston,MI
> >'65 Jetstar I

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 17:26:48 -0700
From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Subject: Re: Brake Problems

>I want to put fron't disks on my Jetstar, but my father (and half-owner)
>feels that it is unnecessary and a waste of money.  I'm not concerned
>about originality as long as it looks fairly stock on the outside.(we're
>going for the sleeper effect).  He doesn't understand that if you hop up
>the engine and driveline you should also beef up the brakes.
>
>What does the front disk setup cost these days?

Depends on what you can get the parts for. I got some junkyard, some new.
It ended up being the best part of a grand, but I know I didn't have a
great deal when I did this work. You might be able to get away for less
than half that with careful shopping.

I used new calipers, pads, ball joints and hoses, junkyard rotors & spindles.
15 inch wheels will be necessary, as will a new dual master and variable
proportioning valve (maybe $50 or so...)

Agree with you on the sleeper effect and stock exterior, my sentiments exactly.

So, if you don't manage to convince the old man on hopping to discs, do be
sure to get a dual master and variable proportioning valve. This will leave
you with safer brakes and more control of the front/rear brake bias. Also,
you'll be part way there if you ever do decide to swap over to discs in front.

Good luck, cool big car!
cf

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 20:36:13 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Brake Problems

Rick Anderson wrote:
>
> On my 65 Jetstar I the brakes (power w/4 drums) are really touchy.  I
> mean really really touchy.  I have locked all 4 up while stopping on
> occasion, especially if you need to stop fairly quickly.  This is
> especially annoying at low speed.  When I'm rolling along at idle it is
> hard to slow down without immediately stopping.  It feels as though
> there is too much power assist.  Is there any way to adjust the assist
> on power brakes?
>
> Thank You.
> Rick Anderson
> Clarkston,MI
> '65 Jetstar I

Rick

The brakes on my '67 Ninety Eight are the same way.  Come to think of
it, my '61 was this way also.  This is just the nature of the beast,
don't know of anything you can to do cure it.  After driving for a
little while I become accustomed to it, but getting it out of the garage
in the spring after not driving it all winter is a real challenge.  I
always hope no one's watching me, they'd think I never drove before.
And switching back to my everyday car ('96 Monte Carlo) after, oh, say a
week of driving it, like going out to Lansing, that can be real fun
too.  Have a tendency to coast into the middle of intersections when
stopping, 'cause I'm used to having to exert so little effort.

Can you imagine what it was like 30 years ago when folks were trading
old cars without power brakes for a new one that was their first with
power brakes?  Bet they really locked 'em up.

The part I enjoy the most is watching the mechanics at work when they
bring it in to the shop to work on it.  I tell the mechanics to put on
their crash helmets.  More than one mechanic has said to me, "She stops
good, don't she?"

Enjoy it, it's just one of those old car quirks.

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 20:57:18 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: 8 Track player question

DROLDS350@aol.com wrote:
>
> Hello. I went to Lansing and bought an 8 track player for a 1971 442 and I
> was told it would fit a 1970 w31. I would like to know what wires go where
> and how do I test it out. Thankyou!

Checking the operation would be a good idea before installing the unit.
Reach up under the dash and pull the wide plug out of the left hand rear
corner of the radio.  This plug is actually three plugs in one.  Take
this wide male plug and put it in the wide female plug coming off the
8-track, then take the wide male plug coming off the 8-track and plug it
into the radio where you took the other one out.  Next, find the blue
wire coming out of the right hand rear corner of the radio (you do
already have a rear speaker, right?).  There should be a connector at
some point less than a foot away from the radio.  Again, take the male
and female blue feeds from the 8-track and plug them into the
corresponding connectors in the blue rear speaker harness.  Now you have
power and sound.  When you put an 8-track into the player, the radio
will turn off and the radio volume and balance controls will do
nothing.  To adjust the volume and balance, you'll have to use the
controls on the 8-track.

When you're ready to install the unit, an extra pair of hands will be a
big help.  There cases are so easy to break during installation.
Someone should hold it until you have both side secured.

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 6 Sep 1997 03:15:30 +0200
From: "archy van wely" <usicon@pi.net>
Subject: Re: CD-ROM with Olds List Digest, Etc.

please send me one copy of the cd-rom you describe. To archy van wely
reigerstraat107, 1506XT Zaandam, the Netherlands.

- ----------
> Van: BobH592058@aol.com
> Aan: rsanders@holly.colostate.edu; oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Onderwerp: Re: CD-ROM with Olds List Digest, Etc.
> Datum: vrijdag 5 september 1997 22:17
>
> Bob Sanders wrote:
>
> <<Robert A Sanders <rsanders@holly.colostate.edu>
> Subject: Re: CD-ROM with Olds List Digest, Etc.
>
> Bob,
> What is the OCA and what is the FAQ and Digest.  I'm new to this web site
and
> am
> desparately seeking info about my 55 Olds.  Thanks for your help.>>
>
> Since I'm wading my way through the digest to get to this message, this
may
> have already been answered.
>
> OCA = Olds Club of America, the largest Olds club in the US/Canada
continent.
> There is also a National Antique Olds Club (NAOC) which caters primarily
to
> pre 64 models. Some have jested that NAOC also stands for Not Another
Olds
> Cutlass since they prefer the bigger cars to those pesky, tiny, compact
> upstarts. :-)  My personal impression is they also don't particularly
like
> modified Oldsmobiles, but they do have a modified class at their shows.
>  Actually, in Atlanta, I wasn't sure they liked modifeds either but
suspect
> that was because of the tone of that particular show.
>
> If you would like to contact either or both of the above clubs I believe
the
> information is easy to find at www.442.com.  Or ask me and I will dig it
up.
>
> FAQ = Frequently Asked Questions.  Dave Brown has been collecting the
most
> informative bits and pieces of the questions and answeres posted on the
list.
> The FAQ is the easiest place to find _loads_ of information.  Note that
> members of the list are less likely to post another answer to a question
> already beaten to death and in the FAQ, such as some of the more
interseting
> reasons cited why you should or should not run a thermostat.  The FAQ can
> also be accessed at the Bryceman's page at www.442.com.
>
> Digest = single files containing the numerous individual messages
generated
> daily on the Olds list.  Many people, including me, don't like to have
our
> mailboxes loaded with a zillion messages. So we subscribe to the digest
which
> usually generates only two files a day each one containing usually ~one
half
> of the messages for a 24 hour period. Instructions on how to subcribe
and/or
> change your current status are given in the message you received when you
> signed on through Majordoma.
>
> Hope this helps. Any more questions, fire away.
>
> Bob Handren (AKA MajorDOMA)
> OCA/OCFª 7728
> '67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
> Oviedo, FL
>
> Handren Associates, Inc.
> FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
> Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
> (407)365-6385
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 20:19:39 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Pertronix vs HEI

Easton,Jeffrey wrote:
>
> From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
>
> >Been there, tried it, pulled it.
> >The problem I had was the rotating assembly with the magnets ended up
> >crashing into the Hall Effect sensor.  Year One took it back with no
> >questions asked (great service).  I think the rotating ring is not well
> >balanced thus causing wobble and eventual crash.  Luckily I kept the
> >points and condensor in the glove compartment, so I was back on the road
> >in 15 minutes.
>
> Uh-oh.  On mine I noticed that the ring wasnt "true".  If rotated the
> clearence
> to the sensor varied.  I just assumed that if the total gap was under the
> specified
> amount in the docs it would be okay.  Didnt think about it flying apart at
> speed.
>
> Did yours actually self destruct?  Scuff marks on the sensor? Ring broken?

The rotating ring apparently began to wobble and dragged against the top
of the sensor (definate scuff marks).  This then caused the mylar? tape
that holds the magnets in the ring to pull off.  The magnets fell out of
a few locations and the car died.  Luckily, I was able to quickly locate
the 5 missing magnets before putting in the points (also lucky it was a
sunny day).
BTW, I had no excessive runout in the distributor.  Pertronix died at
about 2000 miles.  Also, I was not  thrilled that the metal mount on the
sensor was cheap aluminum.  This may have also aided in the failure due
to heat.

- --
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 20:34:26 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Carburetor number

Robert Barry wrote:
>
> >I need clarification on the difference between the "Net Horsepower"
> >rating used beginning for the 72 model year and the previous method
> >("Gross Method??) that was used prior to 72. Is there a big difference
> >in the performance of the 350 olds engine from 71 to 72?  For example,
> >the HP rating for the 71 350 2V  single exhaust is 240 , and the same
> >configuration for the 72 is 175 .  Are the engines basically the same
> >with the only difference being the different rating methods, or are
> >there other considerations also.

<snip>

> In fact, didn't GM release both Gross and Net ratings for their '71 engines?
> That would reveal the similarities and differences. The Net rating is the hp
> from the engine running as it would installed in a car, with water pump,
> accessories, full exhaust, etc, whereas the Gross rating may or may not have
> involved such items, and was performed based on a more favorable atmospheric
> standard (cooler air temp etc).

>From the '71 chassis service manual:

250350350455455455455
1 Bbl2 Bbl4 Bbl2 Bbl4 Bbl4 Bbl4 Bbl
L-6V-8V-8V-8V-8V-8V-8
442Toronado

Comp Ratio8.0:18.5:18.5:18.5:18.5:18.5:18.5:1

Net SAE HP110@160@180@185@225@270@275@
3800400040003600360044004200

Gross BHP145@240@260@280@320@340@350@
4200420046004000440046004400

Bore3.874.05744.0574.1254.1254.1254.125
Stroke3.533.3853.3854.254.254.254.25

Interesting that you stated above the '72 350-2V was rated at 175hp
which is 15hp more than the '71!  Who says the factory didn't play with
the numbers???
- --
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 6 Sep 1997 03:24:02 +0200
From: "archy van wely" <usicon@pi.net>
Subject: Re: Olds delta 88 royale town sedan 1976 (help)

Thank you very much for writing me back!!
I am restorating one overhere in Holland and I have so far, in about 1
year, the information that there where made 33000 off them and the
information you gave me.
It would sure help me if you could send me the technical information about
the car with a standard 350 engine!
Thanks for helping me and greetings from Holland.


- ----------
> Van: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
> Aan: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Onderwerp: Re: Olds delta 88 royale town sedan 1976 (help)
> Datum: vrijdag 5 september 1997 17:27
>
> >Could anyone give me any information about a oldsmobile delta 88 royale
> >town sedan from 1976. I cant find anything about it anywhere.
>
> Well, what do you want to know? For one thing, it's big... ;)
>
> Are you looking for production numbers? Mechanical information?
> Specifications? Standard features, and options availability? Factory
colors?
>
> Are you looking to buy one, and want advice on what to look for? Or do
you
> already own one, and you're looking for information on restoring it? Or
> modifying it?
>
> There's a lot of people here who would know the answers to your
questions,
> but I've seen that the more specific your questions are, the better the
> answers are that you get. I'll tell you the little that I know about that
car...
>
> That was the last year of the '71-'76 body style, before they downsized
for
> the '77 model year. They went to the more "modern" square headlights,
which
> is a distinguishing feature of the '76's. The Royale was the
top-of-the-line
> 88, I believe, but still one step down from the 98. I thought town sedan
> denoted a non-hardtop bodystyle (post between the front and rear side
> windows), but you can tell that yourself.
>
> Air bags were available as an option, as were 8-track and cassette
players,
> as well as a factory-installed CB (ah, a real period piece!). It also had
> the factory 5mph bumpers, which, when properly modified, is the hot setup
> for demolition-derby derby use (or parallel parking... ;). Yours probably
> has full power everything, and A/C. It's unlikely that trim pieces will
ever
> be reproduced for your car, so if something's missing, get it from a
> junkyard as fast as you can; you might even be lucky enough to find some
NOS
> pieces, but get them while you can, and don't dicker over the price.
>
> The 455 was still available, but that was the last year for it. The car
> would come equipped with both EGR and a catalytic converter, so it's
> definitely considered a "smog-motor" car. I'm quite sure that the 350
would
> be standard in just about any 88 model, though.
>
> Others can fill you in on the details, especially on what made the
"Royale"
> special.
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 21:22:28 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Rare 88s and 98s

I posted this reply a few days ago, and I don't think I've seen it yet.
Must be lost in cyberspace.  If it came across and I missed it, I
apologize for repeating myself.

As far a production numbers go, the rarest 98 models would be the '41
Custom Cruiser Series 98 convertible phaeton.  '41 was the first year
for the 98.  The phaeton body had 4-doors and was only available in '40
and '41.  1941 production was 119.  There a few of these still in
existence.  Even fewer of these were made for '40, only 50, but in '40
this line was known as the Series 90 Custom 8 Cruiser, so it is
technically not a 98.

As far as rarest in existence, I think the '42 Custom 8 Cruiser Series
98 Convertible coupe would be the car.  '42 production was 216, but I
believe currently only one exists, in California, and it's not in very
good shape.

For 88s, the rarest production model would be the '91 Eighty Eight
Royale coupe, only 234 were built.

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 20:31:38 -0500
From: Shang <shoover@flash.net>
Subject: My '70 Cutlass

Hey everyone,

Much to my unhappiness, I have decided to sell my '70 Cutlass Supreme.
I have a new financial responsibility in my life that is going to delay
its completion for an unknown number of years and I won't be able to
watch it sit around and become another old piece of junk. I am not
trying to spam you with a sales ad, I just want you guys to have first
crack at it, someone who will love this car as much as I do.

It's Gold in and out with a white vinyl top. The interior is is
spotless except for where some moron cut a hole in the dash for a din
sized radio. It has bench seats and a column shift, the seats were
reupolserted with gold cloth inserts. The body is very straight, and has
much less rust than average, although rust is starting to form around
the rear window channel. The paint is in very good condition and is the
original color, but not the original paint. The top has been replaced
and is in excellent shape. The drivers side door is fairly misaligned
and needs to have the lower hinge rebuilt (I have the kit) and
realigned. The hood, grilles, bezels, trim is all in great shape. I have
installed a rechromed front bumper. The motor is the factory original
4-BBL 10.25:1 350. It has not been rebuilt and it runs great. I have
updated it to an HEI, a 94 amp internally regulated alternator and
installed a Performer RPM manifold and carb. (Many of you may remember
my dilemma with the thermostat bolt on the original intake) I have also
recently replaced the fuel pump and fan clutch and the radiator was
recored about 1.5 years ago. It has factory A/C and has had the
compressor replaced at one time, but it needs to be replaced again. It
all works but the compressor makes noise at higher speeds. The
transmission is the factory original TH-350 w/a CBOP bellhousing. It was
rebuilt about 3 months ago and it has a nice shift kit in it. It has a
12-bolt "O" axle with a standard 2.56 rearend. I have COMPLETELY
overhauled the suspension, brakes and steering about 6 months ago. The
front has a brand new disc brake setup (car originally had drums) and I
replaced the shoes and all the hardware in the rear brakes. I added a 1"
rear sway bar at the time. (I have about $2200 in the brakes, steering,
and suspension) I also replaced the steering gear box, as it had some
slack. It has a set of 15 x 8 Eagle 5-star rims with 235/60R15 TECH 5000
radials, but I have all 5 of the original rallyes (14X6) The car is a
daily driver and I get compliments on it regularly.

I would really like to get about $7000 for it, but any reasonable offer
with be considered. I will take some pictures of it and sent it to
anyone who requests them.


Thanks

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 22:15:04 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Plastic Chrome

CarrDuff@aol.com wrote:
>
> Does anyone here have a source for getting plastic pieces chromed ?
> I need to get my Console Plate and my Instrument Bezell re-chromed.
> Any info would be appreiciated
>
I have a suggestion.  Wait until next month when I get my parts back
from Custom Coatings (aka Pot Metal Restorations) in Tallahassee,
Florida.  They are in Hemmings this month, (and last month).  I called
the owner, and he has developed a way to copper coat plastic, then
rechrome it just like you would a show bumper.  VERY TOUGH STUFF, so he
claims.  I have a couple of plastic pieces, plus some pot metal stuff.
All in all I'm spending $280 for a antenna bezel, 3 dash knob bezels, 2
vents, and 2 mirror housings.  I don't think that is too bad.  I'll let
you know how it turns out, if you can wait.  If not, Mr. G's did my 71
console stuff.  Wasn't too bad, but it was clear coated vacuum
metallizing.  Holding up pretty well after 8 years.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 22:46:52 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Plastic Chrome

At 09:52 AM 9/5/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Does anyone here have a source for getting plastic pieces chromed ?
>I need to get my Console Plate and my Instrument Bezell re-chromed.
>Any info would be appreiciated
>
>Steve Dietrich
>  S/E PA
>    71 442 W30Conv.
>

Steve

        The best place I've found is Mr G's plastic chrome plating. The
gauge bezel is $48.50 detailed. That means the black paint is on it. They
recommend this because the plating is so thin that you could take it off
with masking tape to paint it. The console plate is about the same price.
Total my bill was $120.00 with shipping. The results are impressive. If your
not worried about getting your original parts back they will exchange them
for ones already done for a faster turn around. Mine took about 5 days.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 22:48:06 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: 68 Cutlass Parts

At 01:36 PM 9/5/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I have a 68 Cutlass conv. and need one part to complete interior.  Do you
>have the litttle round retaining ring that screws onto the windshield wiper
>control.  It turns screws into the dash and holds the wiper control to the
>dash insert.  It kinda looks like a spray can lid with a nickel sized hole in
>it.
>
>Let me know.
>
>Thanks Rob
>'68 Cutlass Conv.
>zimbyjr@aol.com
>

Rob

        No we only have the 69 version which is different. Sorry.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts
(757) 474-0869

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 22:54:17
From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Subject: Re: NAOC (long)

At 04:17 PM 9/5/97 -0400, you wrote:

>There is also a National Antique Olds Club (NAOC) which caters primarily to
>pre 64 models.

The NAOC caters ONLY to 1964 and older (the 1964 model year IS included)
Oldsmobiles.  Don't bother to bring your '68-'72 Cutlasses and 442s to an
NAOC show.  They won't be allowed on the showfield.  In their opinion,
that's what the OCA is for.  It's my guess that the NAOC was originally
formed by disaffected OCA'ers who got tired of seeing nothing but the
bullet-shaped Cutlasses at Oldsmobile shows with the 30s, 40s, and 50s
stuff shunted to some strip of grass way off to the side somewhere.  They
probably felt that this discouraged people with the pre-50s cars from even
bothering to bring them.

When the NAOC was originally formed, they recognized only through the 1960
model year, because, I presume, that was the last year B.C. (Before
Cutlasses).  Why they crept up '64, which includes three years of the
Cutlass, I don't know, but I doubt they'll go to more recent years any time
soon.  The problem they face, though, is the relative lack of pre-1950s
stuff out there.  Sure, you see these at Oldsmobile shows, but the heart
and soul of all Oldsmobile shows I've been to, and that includes our
Mid-Ohio Chapter show, is the '68-'72 Cutlasses and 442s.  Without them,
total show attendance would probably be less than half what it otherwise
would be.  And that's not counting the '64s, '65s, '66s, '67s, and the
1973-on-up A-bodies.

I'll bet this is why the NAOC has never had any success in forming local
chapters.  The membership and the number of cars just isn't high enough to
get a critical mass of people and cars in any one area that is large enough
to sustain a chapter.  I went to one national NOAC meet with my '64 Jetstar
back when I owned it (it was in '93, I believe, when the national meet was
near Morgantown, West Virginia).  It was a very nice show (my car was one
of about four or five 1964 models, and none were Cutlasses), but there were
only about 80 cars.  You can find more than that at a Saturday night
cruise-in at the local shopping mall or burger joint.  If they ever
attempted chapters and chapter shows, they'd get maybe 20 cars, which is
not enough.  And the swap meet wasn't much more than your neighbor's garage
sale.  You could have walked it in 10 minutes.

The NAOC faces the same problems that are faced by clubs that honor
Packards, Hudsons, Studebakers, etc., and that is that they ain't makin'
any more of 'em.  The potential membership is limited.  The OCA and clubs
like it, on the other hand, have a constant potential supply of new members
because the person who just bought a '97 Aurora or LSS is a possible new
OCA member.

And this leads to still one other problem for the NAOC, and that is that
the average age of the membership is about 55 to 60, I would guess.  They
need more guys (and girls!) in the their 20s, 30s, and 40s to take an
interest in the pre-64 stuff if the club is to just survive, but that's not
so easy.  These 60-year-olds are interested in the 1956 88s because those
were the cars that were on the street when these guys were in their teens
and 20s.  It's natural that they should take an interest in and want to
collect the cars they remember from their youth.  It's no different with
the guys who are now 35 or 45 years old and who want to tinker with and
collect the cars that _they_ remember from _their_ youth, and these are
gonna be the cars from the 60s and 70s and so forth.  Plus, every year it
gets more expensive to restore a car from the 40s and 50s because the parts
get scarcer and scarcer and thus costlier and costlier.

Hu Vandervort, president of the NAOC, made an interesting comment in his
column in the January '97 issue of Runabouts to Rockets (the NAOC monthly
magazine) about why NAOC members should attend the Lansing Centennial.  He
said that Lansing "probably will be the last hurrah for a number of
Oldsmobile vendors as it is becoming increasingly difficult to find antique
Oldsmobile new old stock parts."  If so, what does that mean for the
recruitment of new members, which is something Mr. Vandervort pleads for in
virtually every issue?  If there are few unrestored pre-60s Oldsmobiles
left out there, and precious few and thus expensive parts to restore them
with if you do find one, then the only real entrance you'll have into NAOC
membership is to buy _someone else's_ already restored pre-60s Olds.  But
what fun is that, and who's got the money to buy one?  Those same
60-year-olds is about it!

I think that the NAOC eventually will _have_ to open its membership to
later model Oldsmobiles.  Perhaps they could keep the spirit of what the
NAOC was originally about by restricting the recognized cars to only the
full-size 88s and 98s.  There's already a move afoot to create a chapter
within the OCA that just for 1941-1992 (or something like that) full-size
Olds's.  (In my opinion, that's a span of years that's just a bit too
large, but I like the general idea.)  The NAOC could perhaps beat the OCA
to the punch by moving their latest-year-of-recognition up to, perhaps,
1980, but keep it to the full-sized only.

I don't have a pre-1965 Olds anymore, but I keep my membership in the NAOC
(heck, it's only 20 bucks a year) because I think what they're ultimately
trying to do is good.  It'll be interesting to watch what course they take
in the coming years.


Dan


P.S.  Hey, I didn't mean for this to be this long.  I was just going to
correct the comment at the beginning about what model years the NAOC
recognizes.  But one thought led to another, and before you know it, all
hell breaks loose.  If I don't shut up, this P.S. will get just as long!



*********************************************************
Dan Gulino
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/rides.html
1975 Delta 88 Convertible
*********************************************************
see photos of the Oldsmobile Centennial at
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/lansing/lansing.html
*********************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 22:57:57
From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Subject: Re: Brake Problems

At 05:13 PM 9/5/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I want to put fron't disks on my Jetstar, but my father (and half-owner)
>feels that it is unnecessary and a waste of money.  I'm not concerned
>about originality as long as it looks fairly stock on the outside.(we're
>going for the sleeper effect).  He doesn't understand that if you hop up
>the engine and driveline you should also beef up the brakes.
>
>What does the front disk setup cost these days?
>
>Thanks for the info
>
>Rick Anderson
>Clarkston, MI
>65 Jetstar I w/ 455

There's an outfit in North Carolina (I think it is) that sells a kit to
convert front drums to discs on many cars.  I looked into it once for my
'64 Jetstar 88.  The cost was about $700 for the complete kit.   I never
did go for it.  I can look up the name of the place (it's in a back issue
of Classic Auto Restorer which I've got on the shelf somewhere) if you want
to know.



Dan



*********************************************************
Dan Gulino
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/rides.html
1975 Delta 88 Convertible
*********************************************************
see photos of the Oldsmobile Centennial at
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/lansing/lansing.html
*********************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 97 23:18:36 -0500
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re[2]: 1968 442 Bucket Seat Interchange

Head rests were an option at least back to 67 and I _think_ even 66.

     Yep, that's right Bob.  My 66 convert has them.

They look quite a bit different than 68+ versions.

     Two-for-two.  They look more like the headrests on first-generation
     Camaro/Firebird buckets.

Since they were an option they are pretty hard to find.

     Even harder to find is the 66-67 reclining bucket seat with headrest.
     I've only seen these in the service manual, not in person.

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30




------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 23:24:40 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale

                                        C&M Classic Parts

Hours:  Mon-Fri  6:00 pm - 10:00 pm, Sat 9:00 am - 6:00 pm
New Parts: ____________________________________________________________________
66 442 Side Mount Tach (maroon, works, nice)  $225.00
66 F-85 Post Coupe Doors (very good cond)  $200.00 pr
66 F-85/Cutlass grille  (nice)  $50.00
66 F-85 Trunk Lid  (nice)  $125.00
66 330 cu in 2 bbl engine (complete w/trans, 17,000 original miles)  $350.00
66-67 Clutch Z-Bar  $50.00
66-67 Rear Side window lower U-seals (new, Metro Moulded)  $17.00 pr
67 Cutlass Fender Emblems (nice)  $10.00 ea
67 Plain Cutlass Fender Rockets (nice)  $5.00 ea
67 Rear Defrost setup (w/switch)  $50.00
68-72 Rear Defrost  (no switch)  $30.00
68-69 Rallye Pac. tach and gauges (with tach harness)  $325.00
69 Cruise Control Switch and Bezel  $25.00
69 Radiator Core Support 3 Row (mint, no rust holes)  $150.00
15x7 SSIII's (snap on caps no rings) 4  $125.00
70 OAI Hood (nice) 2 very tiny stress cracks at scoop  $950.00
70-75 Sport Wheel (black with blue center and collar)  $125.00
70-71 Halo Vinyl Top Molding sets no "L " moldings (mint) $55.00 set
70-72 455 Std. Iron intake manifold (auto cars)  $75.00
70-72 Std. Console Shift Lens  (repro)  $23.00 ea
70 Sport Mirrors (nice sets)  $155.00 set
70 Cutlass Supreme Hood (excellent)  $100.00
70 442/SX/Rally 350 Rear Cutout Bumper (CORE)  $110.00
70-72 RH Door (Coupe/Conv)  $125.00
69-72 Bucket Seats (need recovering)  $40.00 pr
69-72 Column Shift Steering Column (plain)  $45.00
64-72 Power Window Motors  (excellent cond) $50.00 ea
71 C/S Door Panels (white w/pwr windows)  $40.00 pr
71-72 W-455 Aluminum intake ((2) 1/8th in repaired cracks) $675.00
71 350 4 bbl Engine (complete, carb to pan, runs excellent) $250.00
68-72 Power Steering setup  (complete)  $50.00
71-72 8-Track Player (doesn't work)   $85.00
71 Cutlass/442 Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea
Bumper Bracket sets ALL years  $25.00 pr
70-72 455 Engine Mounts (NEW)  $40.00 pr
68-72 350 Engine Mounts (NEW)  $38.00 pr
TH350 Shift Cable Bracket  $15.00

New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts for 1964-1972 Cutlass/442
_______________________________________________
66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) $34.50 ea
68-75 SSII/III Center Caps (N.O.S.) $34.50 ea
69 Cutlass RH Grilles (N.O.S.) $85.00 ea
70 Cutlass Supreme Grilles (N.O.S.)  $110.00 pr
70-72 LH Coupe/Conv Door Skin (N.O.S.)  $200.00
70-72 Cutlass/442 LH Fenders (N.O.S.) $450.00 ea
71-72 Turn Signal Lens (N.O.S.)  $90.00 pr
71-72 Stone Shields (N.O.S.) $38.00 ea
71-72 Headlight Housings (plastic) (N.O.S.) $80.00 pr
71-72 Cutlass Rear Bumpers (N.O.S.) $380.00 ea
71-75  Cutlass Fender Emblems (N.O.S.)  $19.50 ea
72 Cutlass Supreme & Hurst/Olds Grilles (N.O.S.)  $125.00 pr

Used Parts
_______________________________________________
64 Cutlass/442
RH Headlight Bezel  $15.00
Front Bumper Core  $40.00
LH/RH Taillight Lens  $8.00 ea
F-85 Fender Emblem (nice)  $5.00
V-8 Emblem  $5.00

65 Cutlass/442
65 Cutlass/442 Wheelwell Moldings  $20.00 ea
65 Hood Molding (fair cond)  $10.00

66 Cutlass/442
66 Cutlass/442 Hood Molding  (good cond)  $30.00
66-67 AM Radios  (nice)  $25.00 ea
66-67 RH Hardtop Doors (very nice)  $130.00 ea
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
66 Cutlass/442 Full Turbine Hubcaps (very, very nice)  $230.00 set
Headlight Bezels  $40.00 pr
LH C/S Rear side molding  $10.00
Exterior A-Pillar Chrome Moldings  $15.00 pr
F-85/Cutlass Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea

67 Cutlass/442
66-67 AM Radios  (nice)  $25.00 ea
66-67 RH Hardtop Doors (very nice)  $130.00 ea
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
67 F-85 Rear Bumper (very good condition)  $75.00
67 442 Grille Bar  (nice)  $40.00
67 442 Hood (some rust)  $85.00
67 Front Bumper (straight, core)  $65.00
67 Cutlass Headlight Bezels (nice)  $55.00 pr
67 442 Trunk Lids (clean)  $130.00 ea
67 442 Pie Tin Decal  $5.00
67 442 Trunk Panel (excellent)  $125.00
67 442 Tail Light Bezels (some pitting)  $50.00 pr
67 RH Fender (small hole, straight)  $200.00
Full Wheel Covers  $40.00 set

68 Cutlass/442
68 Hood Hinges  $50.00 pr
68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
68-69 LH Quarter Panel  4 door (mint)  $225.00
68-69 RH Quarter Panel  4 door (mint)  $225.00
68/69 SSII 14x6 Wheels (4) mint  $160.00 set
68-69 Top Fender Moldings (near windshield, mint)  $40.00 pr
68-72 Cutlass S LH Rear Side Glass (clear)  $35.00
Rear Window Molding Sets  $85.00 set
68 Cutlass/442 Std Horn Button (black, nice)  $7.00
68 Air Cleaner Stove Pipe (pipe only)  $10.00
68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $20.00 ea
68-72 Cowl mouldings  $25.00 ea
68-72 B-Pillar Molding Set (black, mint) $25.00 pr

69 Cutlass/442
69 Lower Dash (radio area)  (nice)  $45.00
69 C/S Side Moldings  $20.00 ea
68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
68-69 LH Quarter Panel 4 door (mint)  $225.00
68-69 RH Quarter Panel 4 door (mint)  $225.00
68/69 SSII 14x6 Wheels (4) mint  $160.00 set
68-69 Top Fender Moldings (near windshield, mint)  $40.00 pr
69 Cutlass/442 Doors (mint pair)  $300.00 pr / $160.00 ea
Hood Hinges  $50.00 pr
Hood Louver Chrome  $35.00 pr
Hood Louver Moldiings  $35.00 pr
Windshield Molding Sets  $65.00 set
Rear Window Molding Sets  $85.00 set
69-72 Floor Shift Steering Column (very good)  $100.00
69 Cutlass/442 Front Bumper (good cond) $100.00
69 LH Top Fender Moldings (excellent) $35.00
69 LH Fender (tiny rust hole)  $250.00
69 RH Fender (small nickel sized hole)  $250.00
69 Rear Bumper (V05 rub strip) one small ding  $135.00
69 Front and Rear 4 Doors  (small dings, no rust) $75.00 ea
69 4 Door Panels (Gold, cloth, nice)  $40.00 ea

70 Cutlass/442
70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switch Bezels  $5.00 ea
70 RH Sport Mirror Shell  $40.00
70 F-85 Horn Button (cheap style wheel, excellent)  $10.00
70 Oldsmobile Options Folder  $5.00
69-70 C/S Front Hood Rocket (nice)  $12.00
"S" Hood Chrome Vents  $35.00 pr
"S" Hood Vent Moldings  $35.00 pr
"S" Pillared Coupe Door Panels (good cond)  $40.00 pr
Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $90.00
Black A/C Dash Pads  $100.00 ea
Blue Auto Shift Console  $125.00 (w/shifter)
70-71 Glove Box Doors  $15.00 ea
70-72 RH Fender (needs patch panel)   $145.00
70 Cutlass 'S' Tail Light Lens   $10.00 ea
70-72 Cutlass S Vinyl Top rear moldings (few pits)  $8.00 pr
70 Cutlass Supreme Flat Hood   $125.00

71 Cutlass/442
71 Cutlass Full Wheel Covers  $30.00 set
71-72 Sport Mirrors (excellent cond)  $100.00 pr
71-72 Cutlass S/442 Hood Louvers (nice)  $35.00 pr
71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00
71 Front Rocket Emblem (nice)  $5.00

72 Cutlass/442
71-72 10 Bolt 2.56:1 (open rear)  $75.00
71-72 Sport Mirrors (excellent cond)  $100.00 pr
72 Cutlass/442 Owners Manual  $7.00
72 Cutlass Supreme Side Moldings (excellent)  $110.00 set
71-72 Cutlass S/442 Hood Louvers (nice)  $35.00 pr
71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00

Jim Chermack
OCA ª24275
C&M Classic Parts
Virginia  Beach, VA
(757) 474-0869

------------------------------

Date: 5 Sep 1997 19:42:18 PST
From: mjones@dragon.gleep.com
Subject: Re: Mike's 88 oil pressure

OL>>If I can find a 425 I will
OL>>rebuild that.  I understand about the .921 lifter/39 deg toro blocks and
OL>>the .842 lifter/45 deg 88/98/wagon blocks, I'd like to find the Toro
OL>>block if I can.
OL>>
OL>>Here is what I plan to do:     HV Oil Pump
OL>>      (HP add-ons)             Crane 260 max. velocity cam
OL>>                         (260/272 adv. dur, .456/.484 lift)
OL>>                               Double roller timing set
OL>>                               '78 350 wagon Q-jet
OL>>                               (still being rebuilt)
OL>>                               Oil cooler (w/Diesel oil filter mount)
OL>>
OL>>The rest will be a stock 425 rebuild.  All I need is torque

OL>If you want torque, then stick with the 455; it would be easier to find, it
OL>will make more torque than the 425 (though a 425 would make plenty of
OL>torque; it's just that the 455 would make *more*), and the specs you give
OL>wouldn't take full advantage of the 425's rev capacities. That cam would
OL>make torque, though! Sounds like a good combination, and will make your 88
OL>"noticeably peppier" :)

I remembered something about having 2 cams and the cam with the smaller
lift would make more torque.  That's how I made my cam choice

OL>It's definitely a good idea to rebuild a big-block, if you've got a
OL>small-block in need of replacement. I wasn't sure where I'd be living when I
OL>started rebuilding, so emissions-legality was a big concern of mine. Now
OL>that I live where there's no visual inspection, I would have built a 455
OL>instead of my 403 (after all, 409 cubic inches isn't quite enough... :)

Yes, cheaper to rebuild plus you get more cubic inches :)

OL>Now, what are you going to do about exhaust manifolds, and a crossmember for
OL>a true dual exhaust?

Well, where I live now (california) the state legislature is putting
several bills through office that would make the smog test less
stringent so i could put dual exhaust on then, or I can put it on now
and wait for a CARB exemption (I've seen them for V8 S-10s in magazines)

Or if Sb-42 passes, I can wait 10 years for my car to become exempt :)


Mike Jones
'78 88 2dr.


P.S.  Driving home from work on the interstate, oil pressure was at
50-55 PSI and the temp was at least 180 (my gauge is off so I don't know
the exact temperature) it did start to flutter when I pulled in the
driveway and was around 20 or so.  I forgot to mention this also
accompanies a rough idle.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 6 Sep 1997 03:29:54 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: RE: RE:Drum brake problem

>I have a 71 Cutlass with all drum brakes.  When the car is not running
>the brake pedal seems normal enough, but when the car is running the
>pedal almost goes to the floor before the drums catch & then they barely
<snip>
>My drum brakes are indeed power brakes.  The master cylinder was bled.
>It is a rebuilt one.  The old master cylinder had exactly the same
>problems; no improvement with the new one.  The cylinders I rebuilt are
>definitely not leaking.  I have looked at the rear ones while someone
>presses the brakes, but did not see any signs of brake fluid leaking.
>The system has been bled twice to be sure.  As far as the adjustment of
>the shoes, can you tell me how to adjust them properly?  Don't seem to
>be losing any fluid out of the reservoir.
>
>Could this have anything to do with the "proportioning valve"?  How
>about defective power booster?  I know the booster is at least working
>partially due to the brake pedal is not hard.  When I pull the vacuum
>off of it the pedal is rock hard.  Another guy mentioned the brake
>hoses; that seems to be a possibility.

Ok, I've been thinking this one over, and since you've replaced the master
cylinder, it's not likely the problem (unless the replacement is defective,
which I've had happen). You say it's rock hard when the engine is off, but
not when the engine's running (and you've got the power assist). Did you
bleed the brakes with the engine running? If not, there may be an
obstruction in a hose that causes the pedal to feel firm when you're
bleeding the system with the engine off, but which is overcome by the extra
pressure from the power assist with the engine running. The hoses, while not
free, are not that expensive, and should be replaced if the system is older
(I wouldn't trust hoses over ten years old, no matter how good they looked
from the outside). Clogged hoses will make the pedal feel *real* firm!

Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 6 Sep 1997 01:30:43 -0300
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@orbital.com>
Subject: Re[2]: NAOC (long)

Dan Gulino wrote :

..When the NAOC was originally formed, they recognized only through the
1960 model year, because, I presume, that was the last year B.C. (Before
Cutlasses).  Why they crept up '64, which includes three years of the
Cutlass, I don't know

     Could it perhaps have something to do with 64 being the last year of
     production for the original Rocket V-8 (the 394)?

     Joe (I'll never qualify as a member) Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 23:41:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Peg O'Connor" <peg@grove.ufl.edu>
Subject: Re: 69 H/O Fire Frost paint-coming soon to a paint store near you!

Hi all --

Read the bit about Fire Frost with interest.  Is this stuff reflective?
When Drew (Senko) and I were driving around Lansing one night, we noticed
that the stripes on some H/O's lit up when the headlights hit them.
Is this the Fire Frost?

8)
peg

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 23:58:49 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Johnny Lightning Bargains

Went to KayBee toy and hobby store the other day and they had the
elusive set ª4 of Indy Pace Cars.

The bonus was that instead of being $4.99 a piece like they are at
ToysRUs, they were 3/$5.00!

Plus I was able to pick up one of the collector's series white ones!

It was a good day!

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 20:48:18 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: '64 VIN decode

Well another car that hasn't travelled too far in its life - well at least
its stayed in Calif.

Thanks!

Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

My cars & their alias'
'64 Cutlass
'66 Toronado (LA Woman)
'67 Delta 88 Custom  (Tizzy)
'69 Toronado (Toro II)
'72 Vista Cruiser (VC)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 20:46:29 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: SB 42 update

We used to break in our motors by pre-oiling up to 5 minutes (adapting an
old distributor with a drill motor to run the oil pump) & then running at
3000 rpm for 10 minutes.  That was what  we did with our Super Gas motor(s)
and all others we built (way back when with the ex).

Good luck - sounds like you'll have a sweet machine.  We'll have to compare
when I drop my 400 in my VC.

I got the advisement from Senator Kopp also - its not over till Wilson
signs - or is that sings??

Hope to see you tomorrow - ought to be a good turnout with the heat wave -
Julians gotta be cooler then most areas up here (I hope!).


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

My cars & their alias'
'64 Cutlass
'66 Toronado (LA Woman)
'67 Delta 88 Custom  (Tizzy)
'69 Toronado (Toro II)
'72 Vista Cruiser (VC)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 20:58:59 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: 330 Problems

Can anyone offer any ideas to this gentleman?  Reply privately to
jdj710pc@gj.net

Explain I forwarded his inquiry or he'll really *wonder*!

Thanks for your quick reply to my request for information on the 65 VC.
I hesitated to rebuild the 330 engine because it has had an overheating
problem for many years and the numerous possible fixes have been tried
including new larger radiator, new water pump, new hoses and larger fan.
When it's not too hot or the hill is not too long the engine works
great. I fear the problem is blockage in the block and the usual dip
before a rebuild will not solve the problem.
Thanks again for your input,
Don Johnson

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Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 21:10:56 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: NAOC (long-not any more)

This brings to mind my ex-uncle in law's Packard club which had gotten to
the point to the point where they knew exactly how many '54 Carribean
convertibles were still out there, where they were parked at their
respective locations and how many times a month it had been washed - no,
joking on that part - they did however, know the location of EVERY LAST ONE
of the nine left (which did include one in a field in Oklahoma that the
owner wouldn't sell for anything).  That does get stifling as there is no
infusion of new blood to create more interest.

So should I join the NAOC as I am A) female B) under 40 (barely) and C)
have an unrestored '64 Olds?  I could break all those stereotypes in one
fell swoop.

Its a thought.


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

My cars & their alias'
'64 Cutlass
'66 Toronado (LA Woman)
'67 Delta 88 Custom  (Tizzy)
'69 Toronado (Toro II)
'72 Vista Cruiser (VC)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

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Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 21:12:00 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Johnny Lightning Bargains

Guess where i'll be looking on Sunday?


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

My cars & their alias'
'64 Cutlass
'66 Toronado (LA Woman)
'67 Delta 88 Custom  (Tizzy)
'69 Toronado (Toro II)
'72 Vista Cruiser (VC)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

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Date: Sat, 6 Sep 1997 00:21:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: C191145cal@aol.com
Subject: Re: Drum brake problem02

To adjust the shoes, you have to gain acess to the oval hole in the backing
plate {this is the plate where the shoes, and wheel cylinder mounts.}
  through this hole you will have to stick a brake spoon in and rotate the
star wheel until there is a slight drag of the shoes on the drum. Obviously
you must know which way to turn the star wheel, so that it expands the shoes.
Then once this is found do the above with the drum and everything in place
like it would be when it is ready for the road. With the tire assemble
mounted adjust until the drag is felt then tighten until you only get about
two turns from the tire when spun foward using both hands. Remember you do
not want it too tight. Equalize all four axles as far as the felt drag is
concerned.
  I would check the above first.  A hose that was expanding could cause a low
pedal, but you should feel it with the car off too normally.  Just check them
out visually. If you were to pump the pedal when the car is running does the
pedal come up in height?  When you have disconnected the power booster is the
pedal low, or what feel like normal height?  I think you will find that you
possibly had three problems.  Bad front wheel cylinders, a bad master
cylinder, and out of adjustment on the shoe to drum clearance.   Now the
shoes are just out of adjustment... Check back.




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Date: Sat, 6 Sep 1997 00:29:07 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: cams, carbs, and heads?

i own a 73 cutlass w/403 from a 78 olds.  i was looking for a good camshaft
for this engine.  the kind i want is a high lift, high duration , and a good
top end cam.  does anybody know of any place that sells these cams for under
$100?  does anybody have any good or bad imput about carter carbs?  i was
thinking about putting a set of 350 heads on my 403, will this give me any
more HP?  if not, what will it give me?


mikey tvb@aol.com

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Date: Sat, 06 Sep 1997 00:28:53 -0400
From: jeff antonucci <antonj@erols.com>
Subject: Re: 442's at Lansing on the Bridge & hot starts

>Where did you say you could get a heat shield?
Year one or any resto parts supplier.
>Do you by any chance have a scanner? I was wondering if you could scan >some 
of
the pictures of my car over to me. I do and will when I get them developed.

Jeff.

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Date: Sat, 6 Sep 1997 00:33:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: David1756@aol.com
Subject: Re: 70 Rallye Info Needed!!!

I owned a Rallye 350 in 1979.  It had been well used, but was still quite
fast and fun to drive.  The small block made it a better handler than a 442
in many ways.  As I recollect there is a pretty dedicated couple in New
Jersey who are in OCA, maybe even have a special club for Rallye 350, and
they commissioned reproduction of the stripe kit a few years ago (not cheap).
 Perhaps someone else on the list can remember their names or find them in
JWO (mine are all packed).  Great cars, you hould absolutely buy it.   Is it
a post or a hardtop?  Fewer of the post models were made.  Does it have all
the ram air pieces, the rear wing, the body colored bumpers, and the sport
steering wheel?

Good luck.

Jealously,
David Wilk
OCA 4517

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Date: Sat, 6 Sep 1997 00:45:48 -0400
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: Power Window Switches

Guys and Gals,

I came across the early style power window switches (65-70) in
a (Silver Dome sight) catalog. Are they the same for all GM cars??? YO
no longer carries them and I can't find them in other Olds catalogs. I was
lucky
enough to find some REAL nice used ones, but new switches would be nicer.

The General

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Date: Sat, 06 Sep 1997 01:18:27 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Power Window Switches

At 12:45 AM 9/6/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Guys and Gals,
>
>I came across the early style power window switches (65-70) in
>a (Silver Dome sight) catalog. Are they the same for all GM cars??? YO
>no longer carries them and I can't find them in other Olds catalogs. I was
>lucky
>enough to find some REAL nice used ones, but new switches would be nicer.
>
>The General
>

Gen

        Yes they are all the same. Doesn't matter which GM brand they were.
These switches were used from 64-70.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts

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Date: Sat, 06 Sep 1997 01:22:24 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: cams, carbs, and heads?

At 12:29 AM 9/6/97 -0400, you wrote:
>i own a 73 cutlass w/403 from a 78 olds.  i was looking for a good camshaft
>for this engine.  the kind i want is a high lift, high duration , and a good
>top end cam.  does anybody know of any place that sells these cams for under
>$100?  does anybody have any good or bad imput about carter carbs?  i was
>thinking about putting a set of 350 heads on my 403, will this give me any
>more HP?  if not, what will it give me?
>
>
>mikey tvb@aol.com
>

Mikey

        A place in Lansing Mich. called Engine Service Group sells the W-30
stick cam and the W-31 cam kits for very reasonable prices. The W-31 cam (
308 degrees duration .474 lift, 112 centerline) and lifter set goes for
$111.21. The W-30 stick cam (328 degrees duration .475 lift, 110 centerline)
goes for $112.41. Don't ask why the difference. I don't know. I'll find
their catalog again and post their phone number for the list.

Jim Chermack

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