To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #875


oldsmobile-digest      Monday, September 29 1997      Volume 01 : Number 875



help,77->70 engine swapout update
RE: '70 CS headlight wiring; where's it routed?
Re: Carb numbers-what do I have, for chris.
Re: Fan Clutches.
Re: need 87 442 info quick
Really Dumb Wiper Question
UNBOUNCE: '76 Delta Door Seals Needed
Re:  Hurst Olds
Build Sheet Help
RE: Really Dumb Wiper Question
Re: Hurst Olds
ALAMO DRAGWAY
RE: Really Dumb Wiper Question
RE: Really Dumb Wiper Question
Re: Really Dumb Wiper Question
Re: 400 vs. 425 vs. 455
[Fwd: rear panels 71 442 convertible]
Re: Build Sheet Help
Re: Chromeplating hobbyist pricing
BODY: Haynes Service Manual for 74-?? Cutlass
Re: BODY: Haynes Service Manual for 74-?? Cutlass
Suspension Q's
RE: BODY: Haynes Service Manual for 74-?? Cutlass
Re: Rechroming Bumpers
RE: Really Dumb Wiper Question
Qjets
SB 42/ Calif smog bill
Re: Olds Music
Re: Carb numbers-what do I have
Toro -> Cutlass Engine Swap: Update of IMPORTANT Detail
Source for Caliper hose bolts?
Re: Carb numbers-what do I have
Re: Source for Caliper hose bolts?
Re: Does duralube or slick 50 work?
'72 Cutlass Bumperettes
'82 Olds Toro Conv
Re: THE SWAP MEET
TPI fro Olds?
Re: no-oil engine runs
RE: no-oil engine runs

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 16:03:57 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: help,77->70 engine swapout update

> Bummer, overlooked one detail, the fuel pump for the 70 Buick engine
> has 3 lines, a bypass line to go back to the Gas tank I would assume,
> and my olds engine only had 2 lines, anyone know if I can just cap up
> the bypass line on the Buick pump? or other quick fix? Or can I swap
> the olds pump for the buick pump? they look about the same, but,
> don't want to srew anything else up.
>

- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 97 21:24:54 UT
From: "Fred Orcutt" <F_M_O@classic.msn.com>
Subject: RE: '70 CS headlight wiring; where's it routed?

It runs along the top, above the condensor, in a loom held by strap hangars
that pop into the cross member.

Fred Orcutt
69D88
72VC

- -----Original Message-----
From:oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca  On Behalf Of Robert Barry
Sent:Saturday, September 27, 1997 9:53 PM
To:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:'70 CS headlight wiring; where's it routed?

The shop manual is no help on this one, so I'll ask someone here on the list
with a '70-'72 Cutlass: where on the radiator support is the front wiring
harness to the headlights and turn signals routed? I see a hole on the
support on the driver's side, right near the battery; does the wiring go
through there, and in front of the A/C condensor, attaching to the horns
along the way, or does it mount above the upper part of this front support,
just under the top radiator cover?
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 17:44:26 -0400 (EDT)
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Carb numbers-what do I have, for chris.

chris, if you have the 7041250 i would be interested in it. i rebuild carbs
on the side ,maybe i could redue yours for you.  i also have a w-31, but mine
is a 70 modle.                please reply steven.  w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 14:45:28 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: Fan Clutches.

Did you use the "Heavy Duty" or regular fan clutch?  The HD one will do
that, I first tried it on my '84 H/O when I replaced mine this spring.
Sounded like a helicopter attached to the front of my car :-)  Changing
for the regular unit (which costs half as much too!) solved the problem.

Matthew Mayer wrote:
>
> Is there any kind of break-in period for new fan clutches?? I installed
> one about 2 months ago on my '86 442.  It was really noisy all the time,
> I thought maybe it would quite down a little with use, but hasn't.  It
> sound like I am ready for take off whenever I get the engine over 2500
> RPM.  Thanks for any input...
> --
> ---Matt
> Chicago, IL
>
> --------------------------------------------------------
> mailto:mmayer@interaccess.com    |  VM: 800-481-1323
> --------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 15:02:38 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: need 87 442 info quick

Chris Brown Witt wrote:
> What rear end ratio was used?

3.73:1 8.5"

> Posi for sure, or optional?

Optional, check for G80 code on sticker inside trunk lid to verify posi.

> Tag on diff if posi?

Yes, if there's a tag it's definitely posi.  If not, inconclusive.

>
> Car has one T-top left, the LH one. Hit hard in fron, busted RH ttop, weather
> got in. Might have a good PSeat motor yet,

I might be interested in that pseat motor!

> What else might there be that's desirable &/or 442-specific to make this
> worth getting?

The 8.5" rear ends can fetch up to $600 used.

The 200-4R tranny is valuable, since the 442 ones came with a special
valve body and were tuned different, making them stronger and shift
better.  Also, '86-up 200-4R's are the best.  They changed the pump and
some valves that year.

Also should have a 2400rpm stall torque converter.

Rallye gauges always in demand!  So are center consoles.

May have factory air shocks.

Carb probably worth a bunch to someone restoring an '87 442.

>
> I am NOT on real time list, but on DIGEST, so PLEASE
> REPLY TO MY EMAIL ADDRESS as listed below, or call at 517-882-9747 today,
> thanks
>
> --
> Chris  B. Witt *the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and
442... > wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 19:22:57 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Really Dumb Wiper Question

Here's a real opportunity to make me look even more stupid than normal... :)

I bought a pair of wiper blades for the Delta the other day. While doing
a variety of stuff to it today I decided to put them on. But I was
foiled, because I couldn't get the old blades off the wiper arms.

How the !@ª$%$ª@! are those things released from the arms? All I could
see were the ends of some springs sticking up from either side of the
attaching pin, but fiddling with them made no difference. Someone please
give me a lesson on this...

OK, everyone, go ahead and make me look foolish now! :)

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 19:25:55 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: '76 Delta Door Seals Needed

Archy, you can't use the word "H*lp" in a message subject, or near the
top... forwarding.

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:"archy van wely" <usicon@pi.net>
Subject: (Can't Use the H*lp word, Archy!)

Hi all,
My brother is next month in san fransisco for an exercise with brittain sas
and US navy seals and I want to let him bring back rubber door sealers for
me.Because I cannot order them by oldsmobile europe.
But I havent got a idea what I should give him along to say to the dealer.
Has anybody an idea how to order door sealers with a dealer without having
the dealer search the universe for it.
I guess he has little time so it would be perfect to order it ahead or
something like that.
Can anyone please advice me?
Greetings from archy
Holland
olds delta 88 royale town sedan 1976

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 18:27:25 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jon442@aol.com
Subject: Re:  Hurst Olds

In a message dated 97-09-28 15:50:55 EDT, you write:

<< I just purchased an '84 Hurst Olds, and I would like to know where to look
 for any
 information ( NOS parts,test data, clubs, anything!). >>

The Hurst/Olds Club of America has a web site at http://www.hurstolds.com.
There are photos, H/O history, and a club application, among other things.

Jon Wessel
Director, H/OCA

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 17:31:13 -0500
From: "MiLiT@Nt1" <militant1@geocities.com>
Subject: Build Sheet Help

While running some speaker wires under the carpets I pulled out the rear
seat and there it was.  Can anyone tell me what any of this means?  It
is a '68 Delmont 88.

3-193-29-6
364670
5639-357
 A01 W39 Y71 A65

Thanks,
Nate
- --
MiliT@Nt1 <militant1@geocities.com>   '68 Delmont 88 - 455
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 19:31:40 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: Really Dumb Wiper Question

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BCCC45.26036E20
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Greg, all I did was press on the little tab and yank hard!  The old =
blade should kinda "pop" off of the pin and the new one will pop on.  On =
a related note, I used ~my~ new wipers today and the things really stick =
to the windshield (the very reason for which they were replaced).  Not =
only that, but there are dark black (rubber, I guess) marks on the edge =
of the windshield, on the driver's side, where the wipers come up, stop, =
and return to the bottom of the windshield.  These are regular ANCO =
blades, so I don't think they are cheap.  Has anybody ever experienced =
this before?  Thanks for the help.

 Jason Adcock
 jadcock@vt.edu
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason

- -----Original Message-----
From:Greg Beaulieu [SMTP:ab348@chebucto.ns.ca]
Sent:Sunday, September 28, 1997 6:23 PM
To:Oldsmobile
Subject:Really Dumb Wiper Question


Here's a real opportunity to make me look even more stupid than =
normal... :)

I bought a pair of wiper blades for the Delta the other day. While doing =

a variety of stuff to it today I decided to put them on. But I was=20
foiled, because I couldn't get the old blades off the wiper arms.

How the !@ª$%$ª@! are those things released from the arms? All I could=20
see were the ends of some springs sticking up from either side of the=20
attaching pin, but fiddling with them made no difference. Someone please =

give me a lesson on this...

OK, everyone, go ahead and make me look foolish now! :)

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, =
Canada


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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 19:42:17 -0400 (EDT)
From: Seano42369@aol.com
Subject: Re: Hurst Olds

Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 23:45:55 +0000
From: clarence wirtz <cw63nova@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: ALAMO DRAGWAY

I went to Alamo Drag way last night, south of San Antonio, Tx.  There was a
nice feild of cars.  Some fast times, pretty machines, but not a single OLDs
of any kind made a showing.  I was kind of disapointed.  It makes me kind of
want to make a pass or two in my car.  But, I dont want to shame the Rocket
world. I know my 86 307 powered GUTLASS HA HA!  will not live up to the
rockets of the past.  I would be suprised if it ran faster than a 19 or so.
I wonder what it would take to get this car into a respectfull time with the
307.  What I mean by respectfull is around high 14's or so.  With my luck it
wont be possible.  I just get tired of Ch**y this, F**D that.  I want to
make Olds a know name in this area again.  Maybe not the fastest but some
one that  they would have to get buy and respect.  The locals feel if its
notCh**y, F**d, or M***r, its not worth running. I want to end that.

Does any one have any suggestions besides going with a bigger motor.  I
would like to do this with the 307 if possible.

Thanks in advance.

Clarence
'86 Cutlass 4dr 307.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 21:02:50 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: RE: Really Dumb Wiper Question

On Sun, 28 Sep 1997, Jason Adcock wrote:

> Greg, all I did was press on the little tab and yank hard!  The old =
> blade should kinda "pop" off of the pin and the new one will pop on.

Uhhh... what little tab? Trust me, if I saw a tab (or anything, for that
matter) that looked like it would release them, I would have attacked it...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 20:58:29 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: Really Dumb Wiper Question

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On mine, there was a little piece of metal on the blades that were on =
there.  The little metal piece released a little pincher that held the =
wiper on.  I don't know what brand your blades are, but mine were so old =
and cracked, they might as well have been the originals.  The ANCO ones =
that I put on don't have a tab, so yours might just yank off.  Sorry I =
can't give any more info than this.  I hope this helps.

 Jason Adcock
 jadcock@vt.edu
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason

- -----Original Message-----
From:Greg Beaulieu [SMTP:ab348@chebucto.ns.ca]
Sent:Sunday, September 28, 1997 8:03 PM
To:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:RE: Really Dumb Wiper Question

On Sun, 28 Sep 1997, Jason Adcock wrote:

> Greg, all I did was press on the little tab and yank hard!  The old =
=3D
> blade should kinda "pop" off of the pin and the new one will pop on.=20

Uhhh... what little tab? Trust me, if I saw a tab (or anything, for that =

matter) that looked like it would release them, I would have attacked =
it...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, =
Canada


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- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BCCC51.475B14E0--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 18:56:57 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Really Dumb Wiper Question

Greg, are you replacing the inserts or the entire blade?  For the blade,
stick a wide, flat screwdriver between the arm and the blade at the
pivot pin.  Twist.  Sometimes there is a release spring in there, but
I'd guess you'd have seen it.  Just twisting the screwdriver should pop
it free for you.

             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
             Box 524               | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Sidney, Montana 59270 | http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "TRBO LVR" (Maybe???:)| '83 Turbo Regal
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 21:24:55 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: 400 vs. 425 vs. 455

Raul Martinez wrote:

>         I wonder if you can help me figuring out which is the HP rating os 
425
E (export) version? >         Proud owner of a 1966 Delta 88.

I thought the shop manual would show this, but I guess it doesn't.  The
only information I can give is that the compression ratio is 8.3 instead
of 10.25.  Product Selling Information book has no information on export
engines.

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 21:32:51 -0700
From: "David, Terri and Rob" <hoagie@emeraldis.com>
Subject: [Fwd: rear panels 71 442 convertible]

X-Mozilla-Status: 0001
Message-ID: <342F2EC5.3B86@emeraldis.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 21:29:57 -0700
From: "David, Terri and Rob" <hoagie@emeraldis.com>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.01E-compaq  (Win95; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: oldsmobile@chebuto.ns.ca
Subject: rear panels 71 442 convertible
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

hey guys,
I am in search of some rear door panels for a 1971 442 w-30
convertible...condition unimportant...need steel pieces that go on
top...any help with this problem would be greatly
appreciated..Hoagie...e-mail hoagie@emeraldis.com
owner
1971 442 W-30 convertible
1970 cutlass sx convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 22:06:03 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Build Sheet Help

MiLiT@Nt1 wrote:

> Can anyone tell me what any of this means?  It
> is a '68 Delmont 88.
>
> 3-193-29-6

Have no idea what all this is, except that maybe the 3 in the front has
something to do with Oldsmobile.  Their number was 3 on the vin and
fisher body tags.

> 364670

I'm thinking this is either the body number of the last six of the vin.
Check both these numbers and see if it matches one of them.

> 5639-357

Should this be 5439?  5439 is the model number for a Delmont 88 Holiday
Sedan.  5400 is the series, 39 in the body style.  Olds didn't have a
5600 series (at least in '68).  I'm thinking the 357 is the interior
trim number.  7 is the code for white.  Do you have a white interior?

>  A01 W39 Y71 A65

A01 - Soft-Ray Tinted Windows
W39 - Deluxe Front and Rear Lap and Front Shoulder Seat Belts
Y71 - Custom Interior (most of the interior from the Delta 88)
A65 - Custom Sport Front Bench Seat (part of Custom Interior)

>    '68 Delmont 88 - 455

That's kind of strange.  The main difference between the Delmont and the
Delta were the standard engine and the interior.  I wonder why they
ordered a Delmont with the Delta interior and 455 instead of just
ordering a Delta?

Do you have:
bright door armrest backing plates?
bright side and rear window interior moldings?
rear door lamp switches?
That would mean you have the Deluxe Interior Equipment as well.

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 18:11:01 -0700
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Chromeplating hobbyist pricing

Mike Aldana wrote:
>
> Now chroming and repairing pot metal with excellent results. Bumpers
> typically cost from $180.00 to $220.00 your core. Price includes
> straightening, stripping, and silver paint on the back of bumpers.
> Turnaround time is now 2 weeks.
> Satisfaction guaranteed always. References available cross country.

What about the cost for chroming both sides of a bumper?

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 21:30:15 -0600 (CST)
From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Subject: BODY: Haynes Service Manual for 74-?? Cutlass

A while back I was in Canadian Tire, glancing at a Hayns body manual for
a 74 to 80something cutlass, and on the back was a picture of what they
called a Cutlass.  It had square headlights, with no 'hangover' 90 degree
bend, and was only shown up to the windshield, with the portion of the
car that I believe would say 'Delta 88' covered.  In short, I believe
this to be an 88 or 98 of 80-85 vintage.  Being a '75 olds man with one
72, though I DON'T KNOW!  I don't like the idea of people having that
little respect for Old's to group them all into one lump and sell a
manual to the public with as 88 claiming to be a cutlass.  They are both
different, beautiful cars, and Haynes should not mess around with MY
brand!  If anyone could browse and find this manual for me (I believe
it's spelled Haynes, or maybe Hais, they're at Candian Tire)

If this is not a cutlass, this book will be OUT of print if I can get my
way.  No stupid CorpOrate Bu**S***T is gonna just pump out an 88 claiming
to be a cutlass with the 'Who cares, they're all just Oldsmobiles,
anyways' Attitude!

If this is indeed an olds, I promise to feel STUPID

BTW, the car is dark brown.

...............self-promo sig file Version 2.2...............
Eric Aksomitis:  Cool homepage of cool cars and cool scenery
http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/       mailto:aksomi@cs.uregina.ca
..............................................................

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 23:42:25 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: BODY: Haynes Service Manual for 74-?? Cutlass

Eric Aksomitis wrote:
>
> A while back I was in Canadian Tire, glancing at a Hayns body manual for
> a 74 to 80something cutlass, and on the back was a picture of what they
> called a Cutlass.  It had square headlights, with no 'hangover' 90 degree
> bend, and was only shown up to the windshield, with the portion of the
> car that I believe would say 'Delta 88' covered.  In short, I believe
> this to be an 88 or 98 of 80-85 vintage.

Sounds like this COULD be an '80 Cutlass.  They had the square quad
headlights with a flat frond end.  Can't say for sure without seeing it.

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 23:47:17 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Suspension Q's

Hey, everybody.  I have a question (no kidding!) about the rear suspension on 
my
84 Cutlass.  I've heard that replacing the control arms with boxed ones makes a
dramatic difference in the handling of the car.  I have replaced the front
bushings with PST's kit and that made a real nice improvement.  I was wondering
if replacing the rear control arms would make such an improvement.  There is my
budget to consider, also.  Would replacing just the lower ones be a waste of
money?  I figured those would be the ones to change if I was going to only
change two, since the sway bar mounts to those and not the upper ones.  If
anybody has any experience with boxed suspension arms please respond...I'm
trying to get a Christmas list together and I'm looking at all these products
and trying to figure out which ones are worth the money.  Thanks very much.

 Jason Adcock
 jadcock@vt.edu
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 23:51:32 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: BODY: Haynes Service Manual for 74-?? Cutlass

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BCCC69.7331B0C0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

It sounds like the book should be out of print, regardless of the =
picture on the front.  Didn't the Cutlass change chassis styles in '78, =
from the A-body to the G-body?  So wouldn't the information be incorrect =
for either the '74-'77 models or the '78-'88 models because the frames =
would be different?  And if the pertinent info is the same, why didn't =
they extend the book to cover all A-bodies ('64-'77)?

 Jason Adcock
 jadcock@vt.edu
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason

- -----Original Message-----
From:Paul Hartlieb [SMTP:plh@nbn.net]
Sent:Sunday, September 28, 1997 7:42 PM
To:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:Re: BODY: Haynes Service Manual for 74-?? Cutlass

Eric Aksomitis wrote:
>=20
> A while back I was in Canadian Tire, glancing at a Hayns body manual =
for
> a 74 to 80something cutlass, and on the back was a picture of what =
they
> called a Cutlass.  It had square headlights, with no 'hangover' 90 =
degree
> bend, and was only shown up to the windshield, with the portion of the
> car that I believe would say 'Delta 88' covered.  In short, I believe
> this to be an 88 or 98 of 80-85 vintage.

Sounds like this COULD be an '80 Cutlass.  They had the square quad
headlights with a flat frond end.  Can't say for sure without seeing it.

Paul
- --=20
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
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- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BCCC69.7331B0C0--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 20:51:35 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Rechroming Bumpers

Everett forwarded this info - it would certainly be closer then the Calif.
contact.

Chrome plating---- There is a place here in Rhode Island called New England
Bumper  1-401-434-6300  his name is Joe. I have been using him for about
three years for all my work as well as for my customers I have only had one
bad piece and he redid promptly. His prices are very reasonable and his turn
around time is decent also. He does real good fabrication on parts also.


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 20:56:48 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: RE: Really Dumb Wiper Question

I had this problem on my old Dodge, an '84, drove me nuts (I'd push in the
thingy holding it & yank and yank and yank and it'd finally let go & I'd go
flying.........) plus all new wipers on that car practically STUCK to the
windshield & left those black marks.  I was always thinking the @ªª$!
stupid things needed to be adjusted out so they weren't so Damn close to
the window........haven't experienced this as badly with my Oldsmoboats.


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 21:18:18 -0000
From: "Rod Beydler" <rodsmobile@mscomm.com>
Subject: Qjets

Anybody know of anybody who reanodizes Qjets in the so Cal area?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 01:04:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: SB 42/ Calif smog bill

...For all the California Oldsmophiles, SB 42 is now awaiting Gov. Wilson's
signature. He has not yet said he will sign it. When I called his office--and
finally got through his voice mail propaganda--I was told by one of his
minions that he had not yet decided whether to sign the bill.
Knowing Pete Wilson as I do, my heart does not rest easy. If some
Sierra Clubber convinced him that vetoing this bill would bolster his chances
in the '00 presidential primaries, he'd probably do just that.
May I suggest that NOW is the time to call his office. The phone number is
916.445.2841. During the voicemail, push '3' to get a live body. Tell them
that you vote, and that you strongly support this bill.

Off the soapbox now.

Coupe King

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 05:42:46 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Olds Music

>Every time I hear Sammy Hagar "I can't drive 55" on the radio, I
>usually turn my radar detector up as loud as it can go to hopefully
>hear it over the steroe,....and engine comming to life roar as I
>watch my spedometer get higher and higher and higher.....:)
>
>> Everytime I hear the new Rolling Stones song's lyrics "Anybody seen my

Well, since we're reminiscing... I remember my "first time": it was in my
'70 SX, and Van Halen's "Panama" came on the radio (then it was a new
song...). I won't claim that song is a masterpiece, but at that time in that
place, it was magic: foot on the throttle rounding a bend onto a long
straightaway on the highway, speedo creeping up... 65, 70, <"panama"> 80...
85 <"Panama" boom boom...> 90... 95 <"PANAMA"!!!> _100_MPH!

There've been times since that I've gone much faster, and I'm sure there'll
be times to come, but for a 16-year old on his way to school in his own car,
that was a moment I'll never forget.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 05:42:49 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Carb numbers-what do I have

>>>All right ladies and gentlemen, I have a question concerning the carb
>on my W-31.  I while back I posted a message about a ~supposed~ correct
>number carb for my 69 W-31 I had found from someone in Texas.  The q-jet
>that should be original is 7029255.  The one the guy found was a q-jet with
29255.
 [snip]
>>>Ok, so now I finally decide to get off my butt and double check which
carb I do have
 [snip]
>the W-31 has a q-jet numbered ...(drum roll please).... 29255.   Yes that same
>number again.  So I'm pondering what I should do.  The current 29255 carb
on the car
>has a bad accel pump.  I also have an Edelbrock q-jet with electric choke
that's fine.
>The car is obviously hard to start and the 29255 should be rebuilt, but
I've never
>rebuilt a carb.  What are some of your peoples suggestions?

A carb rebuild is extremely easy. Simple. Just take your time, and keep
track of the small parts. The accelerator pump is a rubber cup on a rod that
serves as a piston to pump gas into the carb; when it dries out (as they all
do regularly), you get that hesitation on acceleration.

As far as that carb, does the style of the stamped ª on there look like the
numbers stamped on a "70xxxxx" Rochester carb? The reason I ask is because
the carb on my 455 from the '68 Toro is 28252, but the numbers are larger
and rounder than the Rochester stampings would be, and the main casting
color is more goldish, different from the brownish color of a Rochester
casting. I was assuming mine was a rebuilt, remanufactured or aftermarket
carb; maybe yours is too? But you said that your carb has "Rochester" cast
into it, didn't you? Maybe a rebuilder took any old Rochester casting,
rebuilt it to "255" specs, and restamped the ª? If that's not it, I'm out of
suggestions...

>Some of the things I've considered (both temporarily and permanent) are
>
>1. Rebuild the current 29255 carb (if it's considered ~original equipment~)
as I
>only want to rebuild 1 carb

I'd go with that option. Even if it turns out it's not the
originally-installed carb, it is (or should be) a correct replacement carb,
with the proper choke provisions and jetting, and not only will appear much
more original than the Edelbrock, when properly rebuilt it will likely
perform better as well.

>2. Temporarily replace the 29255 with the e'brock q-jet until I find a
correct carb.
>If I do this I need to figure out wher to wire up the electric choke as
splicing into
>any wiring is out of the question.  Would I even need the choke wired up if
I only
>want to start the car every few weeks to circulate the fluids?

You'd need it anytime you'd need to set the choke; basically, anytime you
start the car cold. The car would run with this carb, probably pretty well,
but likely not as well as with the carb on there now when it's rebuilt.

>3.  Find another olds q-jet to temporarily put on until I find a correct
carb.  I've
>currently located a 7041250 from a local speed shop, but it looks like it's
been
>sitting for a while as it's covered in grass and cobwebs, so it should
probably be
>rebuilt but like I said earlier I would really like to only rebuild 1 carb.

If it's been sitting for a long time, the gaskets may have dried out. At the
very least, you'd want to open it up to see what is in there. That carb ª is
for a '71 Olds 350; it might be too lean for your W-31, so you might end up
changing the jets to get it running right. I'd still go with what's on there
now.

>>>To further confuse me/you/us whatever, I have a 72 455 thats been rebuilt
that
>will be swaped into the car TEMPORARILY as the original motor needs a
rebuild.
>This carb will also go on this 455 temporarily so I can drive the car more
than
>the approx 1 mile I've put on it since I bought it over a year ago.  So I
guess
>it boils down to do I have the correct carb, should I put on the e'brock q-jet
>and look for a 7029255 or what???

Well, you could put that Edelbrock on the 455, and rebuild the "255" for
your W-31 if you don't find a 7029255 by the time the engine is rebuilt.
Just don't butcher the wiring harness for that choke hookup.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 05:42:53 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Toro -> Cutlass Engine Swap: Update of IMPORTANT Detail

In the category of "You Learn Something New Every Day"...

Got a chance today to track down the major oil leak from around my oil
filter mount on the SX. When I took off the exhaust manifold, I noticed that
a large portion of the stamped steel gasket was sticking out from between
the mount and the block. Upon removal, the cause of the leak became obvious;
the gasket I used did not match the oil filter mount! There were two gaps of
approximately 1/2" each, which caused the loss of a quart of oil in about 15
seconds of running time (thank God the Toro motor holds 6 quarts...).

When I switched from the Toro oil filter mount to the Cutlass mount, I must
have matched the gasket to the outline of the old gasket on the block, but
there are at least _two_ styles of oil filter mounts that call for different
gaskets. The gasket for the Cutlass mount has a kind of "Z" pattern in the
middle, where the Toro mount has a kind of "dogleg" bend in there.

Anyway, I guess the lesson from this is always to match the oil filter mount
gasket to the _mount_ itself, not to the block.

Well, after curing that oil leak and swapping in another voltage regulator I
had around, I was able to start the engine without leaking any oil, and the
charging light went out, so the charging system was now doing its job. Well,
sorta; seemed like something (the contact cleaner?) was burning off the
voltage regulator, or maybe it was the voltage regulator itself. Whatever
the case, I'll get a sold state replacement for it tomorrow to go along with
a future HEI upgrade. Aside from that and the major radiator leak, the
engine runs smooth as a Toro motor should. After I bleed the PS pump, I'll
get her on the ground and see if the tranny goes into gear. That'll be the
day...
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 05:42:55 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Source for Caliper hose bolts?

I've got some silicone brake fluid seeping from where the hoses enter the
calipers on my '70 SX. The calipers, hoses and washers are all new, as are
the bolts. One thing though; the bolts don't have a built-in washer under
the head like the factory ones did, so I'm guess the washers are deformed in
the shape of the hex head of the bolt, allowing some fluid to seep out (I
got these bolts from Pep-boys).

Does anyone know of a source for the factory-style bolts? I'd prefer a pair
of hex-head bolts, rather than the allen-style socket headed bolts that were
on the calipers I used as cores for these (which were impossible to get off
once the inner hex started to strip). Or does anyone have a good spare pair
of these they could drop in the mail to me? E-mail me privately on this if
you do. BTW, the '73 up bolts are too short; I think these bolts are 1 1/4",
rather than the later-style 15/16" length ones.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 97 00:31:32 PDT
From: "chris smetana" <chris@abcs.com>
Subject: Re: Carb numbers-what do I have

> As far as that carb, does the style of the stamped ª on there look like the
> numbers stamped on a "70xxxxx" Rochester carb? The reason I ask is because
Hmm, I'll have to check and dig out my 7040240 that I have to compare.

> the carb on my 455 from the '68 Toro is 28252, but the numbers are larger
> and rounder than the Rochester stampings would be, and the main casting
> color is more goldish, different from the brownish color of a Rochester
Hmm, I check the color also with the other Rochester q-jet.

> casting. I was assuming mine was a rebuilt, remanufactured or aftermarket
> carb; maybe yours is too? But you said that your carb has "Rochester" cast
> into it, didn't you? Maybe a rebuilder took any old Rochester casting,
Actually, I didn't but I should have since it does say "Rochester Q-jet" on it.

>
> very least, you'd want to open it up to see what is in there. That carb ª is
> for a '71 Olds 350; it might be too lean for your W-31, so you might end up
> changing the jets to get it running right. I'd still go with what's on there
Actually, I knew it was for a 71 Olds 350 auto, but I didn't consider the too
lean fact.

> Well, you could put that Edelbrock on the 455, and rebuild the "255" for
> your W-31 if you don't find a 7029255 by the time the engine is rebuilt.
Funny you should mention the Edelbrock on the 455, because it was on there
before when the motor was in a 77 LeSabre.

> Just don't butcher the wiring harness for that choke hookup.
Wouldn't even consider it.  For future reference, where would be the best place
to hook up the electric choke?  If it makes a difference, my W-31 has a
rectangular shaped Mallory coil, other than that underhood looks pretty much
undisturbed.  And what should I do with the current in the manifold choke setup
if I put the E'brock q-jet on.

Thanks Dr. Bob, you always have good advice for me.  Sorry I can't help with
your caliper bolts.  The only thing I would suggest is  to check a chevelle or
similar A-body.  Those chevelles are good for something at least - disc brake
donors for our Rockets.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
chris@abcs.com

1969 Cutlass W-31
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 06:43:57 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Source for Caliper hose bolts?

At 05:42 AM 9/29/97 GMT, you wrote:
Dr Bob,

        The reason why you think they have a built in washer from the
factory is due to them being on the car so long. They are separate washers
that just get so crushed with time that they usually stay on the caliper or
hose when removed. So what you need is to go to the parts store and get the
copper washers to go under the bolt heads.

Jim Chermack


>I've got some silicone brake fluid seeping from where the hoses enter the
>calipers on my '70 SX. The calipers, hoses and washers are all new, as are
>the bolts. One thing though; the bolts don't have a built-in washer under
>the head like the factory ones did, so I'm guess the washers are deformed in
>the shape of the hex head of the bolt, allowing some fluid to seep out (I
>got these bolts from Pep-boys).
>
>Does anyone know of a source for the factory-style bolts? I'd prefer a pair
>of hex-head bolts, rather than the allen-style socket headed bolts that were
>on the calipers I used as cores for these (which were impossible to get off
>once the inner hex started to strip). Or does anyone have a good spare pair
>of these they could drop in the mail to me? E-mail me privately on this if
>you do. BTW, the '73 up bolts are too short; I think these bolts are 1 1/4",
>rather than the later-style 15/16" length ones.
>_______________________________________________________
>Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
>Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 06:10:43 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Does duralube or slick 50 work?

Read the owners manual, it specifically says NOT to use any additives.
People try to correlate that when that is said it means it they will
help, and Detroit wants you to destroy your engine by not using them,
and buy an engine from them.  Just how many people buy an engine from
Detroit?  Thought so.  NOT!  They will wax your warranty so fast it will
make your head spin if you bring them a blown up engine under warranty
and it has snake oil in it.  And you will be left with the bill because
you have no warranty to cover what they did getting oil samples and
such.  Don't use them, save your engine!

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme 350 Rocket!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 07:21:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mancinj@aol.com
Subject: '72 Cutlass Bumperettes

Joel-

Got your e-mail. If those are in really good shape, I'll swap you. If you
decide you don't need the rear blower, I'll pay a reasonable price for your
parts. As far as I know, the rear blower works and hooks up directly, no
splicing or cutting required. Th biggest headache about installing it will be
swapping out the entire A/C switch panel on your dash. Thanks for being
observant at your local salvage yard!

- -Jay

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 08:46:17 -0700
From: Paul <alindema@badlands.nodak.edu>
Subject: '82 Olds Toro Conv

    One question. Does anyone know the value of a 1982 Olds Toronado
Convertable? Is it similar in value to the Buick Riviera Convertable?

                                                             Convertable
Toronado Owner,
                                                                Paul
Lindemann

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 08:37:38 -0500
From: Paul Brillhart <u17058@uicvm.uic.edu>
Subject: Re: THE SWAP MEET

M&D Gillespie wrote:

> The following add was posted on "The Swapmeet" parts for sale page:
>
> Date of Posting: 9/22/97
> Email Address: SHolland@itd.state.id.us
> Description: Beware Oldsmobile enthusiasts or ???? Have you been
> ripped off
> by someone representing himself as Phil Olsen, prauto@webtv.net at
> 8649 w
> Foster 3a Chicago, Illinois 60656. He was selling me a console and
> shifter
> and vinyl top stainless for a 1972 Cutlass Supreme, however he cashed
> my
> money order and never shipped the parts. He has quit answering his
> e-mail
> address and now with this update his add has been removed from the
> listings.
> I would be interested in anyone who has been ripped off by this
> individual
> so we can have a stronger case to contact the authorities. Please
> e-mail me
> w/info at SHolland@itd.state.id.us or write Steve Holland 7615
> Greenacres
> Dr. Boise, Idaho 83709
> City: Boise
> State: Idaho
>
> Mick Gillespie, Columbus, Indiana
> 69 Cutlass S convertible
> mgillespie@sprynet.com
> http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

   I had a similar experience with the swap meet except the guy was
selling Pontiac parts, don't think it was the same guy.  He did a bait
and switch when he discovered that I lived in Chicago and no money was
lost.  He had a 455 S.D. for sale for $800....the crank is worth $1200
easy,...when I told him I was in the area it turned into a low
compression 2bbl 455.  I e-mailed the SWAP MEET and got a curt reply
that the listings are "let the buyer beware" and that they "did not
care" what was listed or went on in the classifieds.  He would not even
take the listing off.  Lazy b*ª&$rd.  Sorry you got bit.


Paul Brillhart


P.S. His number is unlisted at the owner's request.  It is not listed
under his name though, but another Olsen.  I didn't get a first name.  I
think jr. got a computer for Christmas...maybe mom should be told what
he's doing with it.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 09:59:50 -0700
From: Ingmar Ott <iao2@cdc.gov>
Subject: TPI fro Olds?

Can someone tell me why there are no TPI systems available for a 350
Rocket, or any Olds engine (early) for that matter?  Can get them for
any Chevy or Ford, but no Olds.  I can get a custom system for $4500,
but for that, I can get a whole new engine.
Ingmar Ott
iao2@cdc.gov

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 10:00:58 -0500
From: "David Brown (the Olds FAQ compiler)" <dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: no-oil engine runs

I can't remember if it was in JWO or the Illinois Valley Chapter
newletter, but at a yearly charity event, an Olds 350 ('78) will ran
over 10 minutes with no oil or coolant at 2000 or 3000 RPM. Most people
guessed 3-4 minutes based upon the imports that were run in previous
years.

How long will the ch*vy 350 last, and will it start after sitting
overnight?
- --
David Brown     Mailto:dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 10:51:32 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: no-oil engine runs

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Yes, David.  It was in JWO.  I saw the article and was impressed.  I probably
won't try it on my Olds though!

 Jason Adcock
 jadcock@vt.edu
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason

- -----Original Message-----
From:David Brown (the Olds FAQ compiler) 
[SMTP:dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu]
Sent:Monday, September 29, 1997 11:01 AM
To:olds mail list
Subject:Re: no-oil engine runs

I can't remember if it was in JWO or the Illinois Valley Chapter
newletter, but at a yearly charity event, an Olds 350 ('78) will ran
over 10 minutes with no oil or coolant at 2000 or 3000 RPM.
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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª875
********************************
