To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #857


oldsmobile-digest      Friday, September 19 1997      Volume 01 : Number 857



FW: how to bring back that gold shine
To strip or not to strip?
Re: 400 vs. 425 vs. 455
Re: Drving experience..the imp ss driver
Re: Surging
Re: Tail Light Problem
Re: aol blows, need help
Re: aol blows, need help
Re: Sport Wheel
Re: fan clutch leak
Re: Tail Light Problem
ADMIN:No Mail
Owners Manual
Re: HEI Conversion
ADMIN: Bandwidth
Re: 400 vs. 425 vs. 455
Re: Drving experience..the imp ss driver
Re: ADMIN: Bandwidth
Re: Reving the Olds 403.....2
eastwood stuff
Re: 4 spd/ turbo 400 swap help
Olds 4-ever, chevy NEVER!!!!!!!!!
Re: Drving experience..the imp ss driver
Re: aol blows, need help
Tail Light Problem
Re: Sport Wheel
Re: Speed Racer
ANY gm over FORD....ha ha ha
Re: ADMIN: Bandwidth and then some
Re: Ch**y Transmission Swap
Re: ANY gm over FORD....ha ha ha
Re: 1972 production figures
Re: aol blows, need help
Re: Whats Up with the List
Re: 400 vs. 425 vs. 455
Re: 400 vs. 425 vs. 455
Re: ADMIN: Bandwidth
Re: Whats Up with the List
Re: 400 vs. 425 vs. 455
Re: ANY gm over FORD....ha ha ha
Original key blanks for sale
1973 hurst olds for sale
will a 350 stove pipe fit a 455?
70-72  dash clock
the new Olds logo?
VIN Number Decoding
Re: TicTocTac
455 MOTORS 4-SALE UPDATE
'70 Supreme Taillight lenses
Re: Tail Light Problem
Re: fan clutch leak
Re: how to bring back that gold shine
Fall Carlise
FS: 1972 442 4-speed
Re: the new Olds logo?
Re: fan clutch leak Also seen in 77 Supreme
Re: VIN Number Decoding
Re: fan clutch leak
Re: fan clutch leak Also seen in 77 Supreme
81 Delta '88 2dr parts
Re: how to bring back that gold shine
8.5" ring gear  10 bolt
Fuel Requirements
Re: E-400 motor
Re: the new Olds logo?
Re: MCC on-line voting(olds related)
Re: Fuel Requirements
Re: 400 vs. 425 vs. 455
Re: PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 01:02:50 -0400
From: "Kerr, Brian (R)" <kerrb@basf-corp.com>
Subject: FW: how to bring back that gold shine

 ----------
From: DDA.TYPE=RFC-822; DDA.VALUE=oldsmobile-mml-owner(a)chebucto.ns.ca
To: DDA.TYPE=RFC-822; DDA.VALUE=oldsmobile(a)chebucto.ns.ca; kerr
Subject: how to bring back that gold shine
Date: Friday, September 19, 1997 12:27AM

DATE: Sep 19 04:20:13 1997 GMT
IPMessageID: 199709190340.UAA21887(a)m1.sprynet.com

FROM: [DDA.TYPE=RFC-822; DDA.VALUE=oldsmobile-owner(a)ccn.cs.dal.ca]

AUTHORIZED: [DDA.TYPE=RFC-822; DDA.VALUE=mrhell(a)m1.sprynet.com]

TO: [DDA.TYPE=RFC-822; DDA.VALUE=oldsmobile(a)chebucto.ns.ca]

SUBJECT: how to bring back that gold shine
REPLY TO: [DDA.TYPE=RFC-822; DDA.VALUE=oldsmobile(a)chebucto.ns.ca]

IMPORTANCE: normal
PRIORITY:
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 --

RC Hellebuyck wrote -

How do you bring back that "goldish" bare metal.....
    <,snip>

I think you're talking about Cadmium plating. Eastwood makes a kit to
reproduce that finish called " Golden Cad " finish system. It has a silver
base, with gold, orange and green tints. I have one at home in the garage
that I will be using this winter to redoe some of my parts, but as yet I
have no experience with how it works. Eastwood will send a catalog if you
request it, but I have none of my reference material with me at work today.
A friend picked the kit up for me at Carlisle this summer.

Brian Kerr
69 Cutlass Conv

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 02:22:42 -0400
From: "Kerr, Brian (R)" <kerrb@basf-corp.com>
Subject: To strip or not to strip?

I know that his list is usually concerned with the details and the
mechanicals of our beloved Oldmobiles but this is a bodywork/paint technical
question.
     I am going to strip my Cutlass in preparation for painting.It has been
painted 3 or 4 times on top of the original factory finish.Most of the
original factory finish is very well attached to the metal, but the bond
between the original paint and the first paint job is not very good and I
have been able to scrape, peel and flake the 2nd, 3rd and 4th layer off with
a razor blade. Original colour is a medium metalic blue, but I will be
repainting to Matador red, and rapid fill primer will be tinted to match. My
question is:  Should I contine to strip the rest of the original paint layer
down to bare metal by sanding or chemical stripping ( I have the stripper to
do it)  or should I simply scuff the original finish and prime. The body is
completely stripped to the metal shell, new metal has been welded in where
necessary, and the body with frame attached  is on a body rotisserie.
Underside, floors, welds, rusty seams  etc will all be sandblasted. I am
priming first with an epoxy primer before re sealing all the body seams or
adding body filler where needed. What am I going to get the best adhesion
to, bare metal or original finish, and what grit paper should I use on a
random orbital sander and for hand sanding where needed? The first coats of
Epoxy primer will be smoothed out with a 'rapid filler' primer and much
block sanding before topcoating with a base/clear.
Also - any suggestions with respect to books or references or websites to
visit on bodywork, painting or  shaping/shrinking metal/fixing dents etc
with body hammers, dollies, and heat. There are still some wrinkly spots
that I need to massage a bit before I start slopping on any body fill.

All advice/suggestions/experiences welcomed!!

Brian Kerr
Cambridge Ontario Canada
69 Cutlass S conv

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 11:26:56 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: 400 vs. 425 vs. 455

> go in a hurry.  But it depends on what you will do with it.  There is no
> replacement for displacement.

Amen to that!



- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 10:31:43 -0600 (MDT)
From: Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Subject: Re: Drving experience..the imp ss driver

I like to keep a few chevys in my fleet, they make me appreciate the
olds's so much more
Dustin

On Thu, 18 Sep 1997 RCKTPWR@aol.com wrote:

> no offense but its still a chevy.....u dont root for gordon do you??? Whats
> wrong with some nice engine noise????
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 11:29:34 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: Surging

> Date sent:      Thu, 18 Sep 1997 10:29:55 -0800
> To:             oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> From:           Dan Lacey <lacey@dsea.com>
> Subject:        Re: Surging
> Send reply to:  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

> >The newest addition has a very subtle 'surge' when driving.  Its basically
> >there all the time.  This is a 330-4bbl.  Would that possibly be carb or
> >fuel pump?  Its rythmic - starts and stops evenly.  Car has 180,000 & most
> >everything looks original (honest).
> >
> >Any ideas?
> >
> >
> >Lisa Madsen
> >Anaheim, CA
> >
180,000?? When was the last time the Timing Chain had been changed or
timeing checked....
>
>
> I'll guess that it is running lean...
>
> When the 4bbl kick in, I bet it goes away...
>
>
> *************************************************************************
> * THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
> *                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
> * LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
> *                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
> *************************************************************************
>
>
>
- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 12:44:46 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Tail Light Problem

Timothy A. Churchill wrote:
>
> > I recently purchased a 69 Cutlass Supreme (Great Car!) for my 16 year old
> > son. It needs some body work, but the 350 4 barrel runs great. We put a
> > new ignition switch in and now have a problem with the tail lights.
> > Everything works, except that the right directional lights, front and
> > rear, come on with the brake lights.  The right blinker stops operating
> > when you hit the brakes also.  Any ideas what I need to look for?
>
> Definitely sounds like a short someplace across the tail light and
> directional circuits.  I've seen this occur when a tail light bulb is
> replaced.  You're sure it didn't happen before you replaced the ignition
> switch?
>
> Of course, having the switch in the column, you had to pull the
> steering wheel and the turn signal switch to get to it, am I right?
>
> That'd be the first place to look if it started happening after the
> ign. switch replacement...
>
> BTW, your son is very lucky that his Dad bought him a car of great
> class for his first vehicle.  MY Dad got me (technically, he found it,
> I paid for it) a rotted out '64 I-H Travel-All for $25 for my first "ride".
>
> Tim Churchill
> -------------
> '67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
> '89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
> '91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'
Tim,

I don't know which of us got the best (worst?) of the first car deal.
My first official car was a 63 Chev Bel Air 4-dr sedan, mint green
bottom with a white roof that had belonged to my parents.  The car was
in good condition as it was only 3 years old at the time, but I was a
little embarrassed because it looked like something my grandparents
would drive, not ugly just frumpy, not something most 17 year olds would
want to tool around in.  It was good transportation for my first year at
U K though.  I did try to dress it up with some chrome reverse wheels
with wide oval redline tires.  After a year, my dad signed for me to
trade for a 64 Impala Sports coupe that looked a lot better.  Needless
to say I took the tires and wheels and changed the to the 64.  I felt
like I had died and gone to heaven comparatively speaking.  It was a
very cool looking vehicle, and I wish I had it back.  White car with
medium blue interior, blue interior lights (a big deal back then) chrome
reverse red line fat tires and raised body, it looked like it would
fly.  The car looked FAST but couldn't match the look with a 283 2 spd
powertrain.  Sure had a lot of fun with it though.  I was very, very
gtaeful to my parents for the appearance upgrade.  Even now as a parent
of two almost grown daughters, I sometimes forget how important
perceived appearances are to a teenager.  I did remember when I got my
oldest daughter her first car though.  She got a 92 T-bird that looks
sharp.  She has really enjoyed and loved that car.  Now that it is time
to more on to another car, she doesn't want to part with this one.  I
totally understand.

Don Sowers

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 12:55:38 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: aol blows, need help

Etzel, Bobby wrote:
>
> On Friday, September 19, 1997 11:44 AM, mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
> [SMTP:mrhell@m1.sprynet.com] wrote:
> > Wow! I guess I don't know how you feel!  Reduce your stress level and
> quit
> > America On Hold now!  :)
> >
> > RC
> >
> > >Geez I wish I could get this mail to work right, oops, got dumped and
> lost
> > >this
> > >letter, oh well, where was I , took forever to get back on, busy
> signal, busy
> > >signal,
> > >etc, etc. Ok where was I, oops, bumped again, no wait, dumped the
> first time
> > >and bumped the second, thats different stuff, ok , back to.....oh
> > >yeah.....Hows
> > >the AOL these days.....not bad really...........TIM
> > >
>
> I use GTE Net for my home service( I know you know why :-)) you can go
> to their WEB site at:
>
> http://www.gte.net/
>
> and see what they have to offer. Go to Services and select the type of
> service you want.
>
> Bobby
>
> 70 442
> Escape Back to the...Past
My ISP is Infinet which I think is connected with the Knight-Rider
newspaper group.  Service has been pretty good.  Anytime I have had a
problem, they have corrected it quickly.  As it is the only service I
have used, I have no basis for comparison though.  If you have a
newspaper in your area from this group, you probably have access to
Infinet.  I really had a blast accessing all the newspapers when
Kentucky was playing in the NCAA tournament this year.

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, Ky

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 12:53:15 -0400
From: Patrick Flowers <patri63@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: aol blows, need help

RCKTPWR@aol.com wrote:
>
> anyone suggest a better isp than aol, cant use at night 6pm to 10pm, constant
> errors when i dont do anything, anyone have a good provider to reccomend?

Bernie, definitely ****-can AOL.  The email client(reader) is terrible.
Once you start using Netscape or Eudora for email, you'll wonder why you
put up with it for so long.  An earlier poster was right about best
service(probably price too) with a local ISP.  I use ibm.net because I
travel a lot and they have a great international access network.  Also,
I can be connected to my employer's LAN and ibm.net at the same
time(some ISP's don't support that).  Be careful, many ISP's are having
too much success and have gotten into the same predicament as
AmericaOffLine; i.e. too many subscribers and too few access lines.
Mindspring, a southeastern regional ISP has a limit on new subscribers
per month and their web site will tell you which areas are closed
because they are over quota!

Wishing you an AOL-less future,
Patrick
- --
Patrick Flowers
Mailto:patri63@ibm.net

The GMC Motorhome Page
http://www.gmcmotorhome.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 13:00:39 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Sport Wheel

W30442CS@aol.com wrote:
>
> hi all,  listen about the steering wheel goo, a friend of mine who has a
> uhpolstery shop told me a neat trick for them. he said to clean them real
> good then apply baby oil on them, yep!, common ol baby oil,  i thought he was
> pulling my leg but it it works!. at first it is (as expected) greasy, but
> after a couple of coatings its soft , not greasy, and no goo!.   then an
> ocassional rub down for maint.  he also told me not to use silicone on my
> interior . the sun only dries it out and promotes cracking!, the baby oil
> keeps it soft , doesn`t stain, and is a lot cheaper than armour-all . i put
> some on an old dash pad from a salvage yard that was hard and faded looking .
> soaked it down real good and let it set. after a couple of coats it looked
> new again. installed it in my car,(a conv.) and now with occassinal wipe down
> it still looks new,and is very soft. i did this car several years ago.
>                                           hopes this helps, steven.
> w30442cs@aol.com

Does anyone know if this would work on a leather covered steering
wheel?  My everyday ride has a factory leater covered steering wheel
that appears to be drying out.  I rubbed in some leather conditioner,
but it didn't seem to do much good as it still felt really dry.  So I
thought maybe it needed more conditioner and put more on it.  (I was
using Eagle One by the way.)  That didn't seem to do much either.  So I
am open to other suggestions.  Thank you for any assistance in advance.

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, Ky

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 13:03:28 -0400
From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: fan clutch leak

>guage runs just below the middle mark, (on 80 degree day).  If the fan clutch
>totally goes out, will the engine overheat, or just run a little hotter?

When mine went out it was around 70 degrees.  I drove gently in heavy stop and
go traffic for about a mile or two and the temp gradually crept up to 210 or 
so.
I think with more driving stop and go it would have reached the danger zone of
around 230+.  The rest of my cooling system was in top notch shape though--if
yours is less than efficient you may not have the luxury of driving it for a
while with it broken.

Todd Morris
71 442

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 13:23:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: ROKMORT@aol.com
Subject: Re: Tail Light Problem

The problem is most likely in the turn sinal switch.  It has mechanism to
disengage
the brake light signal to allow the flashing turn signal light to work.  both
of these
signals utilize the same filament in the bulb.  Replace the turn signal
switch with
a new one if possible.

Sincerely,  Michael J. Morton

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 13:27:21 +0000
From: "Rick" <richardc@equitrac.com>
Subject: ADMIN:No Mail

Just curious if I was kicked out of the system for some reason I have
not received any new mail in about a week and 1/2. I am only
receiving Digest's..Any info would be great.

Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 13:27:22 +0000
From: "Rick" <richardc@equitrac.com>
Subject: Owners Manual

In search of a owners manual for a 1990 Olds Delta 88 Royale..
Any help would be appreciated.

Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 15:08:18 -0300
From: "Robert J. Lavey" <rjlavey@rmci.net>
Subject: Re: HEI Conversion

At 06:54 AM 9/19/97 -0700, you wrote:
>Robert J. Lavey wrote:
>
>> There are probably (ok, certainly!) cheaper ways of going, but I have had
>> real good success.  YMMV.
>
>YMMV?

Your mileage may vary.

Bob
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Robert J. Lavey                         email: rjlavey@rmci.net
 13243 W. Dahlia Dr.                     Home:  (208) 939-5418
 Boise, ID  83713-1302                   Fax:   (208) 939-5452
- -----------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 15:16:39 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: ADMIN: Bandwidth

Been away for a few days, and been meaning to post this for a while.
Having over 1000 messages in my inbox since Monday -- most of them
bounces from accounts that have gone bad -- I am perhaps a little less
tolerant of this today than I otherwise would be. But here goes:

Please conserve bandwidth! DO NOT post non-Olds material here. I have
no problem with general questions about paint and body, etc., that
apply just as much to any make, but the other stuff doesn't belong here.

Second, please take as much as possible to private mail. Parts
negotiations, thank-yous (generally) and the like do not belong here.

Third, please TRIM THOSE POSTS! This is a regular issue that comes up
every now and then, but I need to remind folks that we do not need to
see 3 pages of quoted text for a one-line follow-up.

Having said all that, I don't want to inhibit the good stuff: the Q&A,
the stories, the experiences, the dreams. I just don't want to read it
all 10 times over.

I hate to sound curmudgeonly, but there is a lot of useless chatter
these days that I'm afraid is reducing the value of the list for
everyone. Keep it on-topic, and within the guidelines, and I'll be a
lot happier in the future. Thanks!


Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 06:10:23 -0000
From: "Rod Beydler" <rodsmobile@mscomm.com>
Subject: Re: 400 vs. 425 vs. 455

81 cutlass, race only, 3200ª, ladder bar, 9", spool, good gears and
converter, tubbed, 2x3 frame with cage, target  et low 11's, 10K budget.

- ----------
> From: Daren & Laurie Hendley <daren@revealed.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 400 vs. 425 vs. 455
> Date: Friday, September 19, 1997 1:34 AM
>
> >
> > Which makes the best bracket motor? Any ideas out there?
>
> Light car? Heavy car? Fast? Slow? How much money do you have to
> spend?.................
>
> Daren

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 13:39:58 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: Drving experience..the imp ss driver

I will take ANY GM over a FORD anyday....


> Date sent:      Fri, 19 Sep 1997 10:31:43 -0600 (MDT)
> From:           Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
> To:             oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:        Re: Drving experience..the imp ss driver
> Send reply to:  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

>
> I like to keep a few chevys in my fleet, they make me appreciate the
> olds's so much more
>             Dustin
>
> On Thu, 18 Sep 1997 RCKTPWR@aol.com wrote:
>
> > no offense but its still a chevy.....u dont root for gordon do you??? Whats
> > wrong with some nice engine noise????
> >
>
>
- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 11:43:39 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Bandwidth

Greg,

> I hate to sound curmudgeonly, but there is a lot of useless chatter
> these days that I'm afraid is reducing the value of the list for
> everyone. Keep it on-topic, and within the guidelines, and I'll be a
> lot happier in the future. Thanks!

I am sorry Greg.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 14:57:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: Reving the Olds 403.....2

thanx, learnsumpin new every day on this site!!

bernie

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 15:01:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: eastwood stuff

they do sell quality stuff, i love my 3/8 radian wrench, but they just
cancelled their olds 400 bronze paint..........I really liked the color on
that to.....
bernie

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 15:07:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: Daily73@aol.com
Subject: Re: 4 spd/ turbo 400 swap help

You shouldn't have anything other than the trans lines, flywheel, and shift
linkage for ( I assume ) a floor shift. You'll have to cover the hole in the
floor and you won't have passing gear unless you can find (and wire in) the
downshift switch for the gas pedal.
When you do your switch, let me know. I need a 4-speed!!!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 15:17:27 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Olds 4-ever, chevy NEVER!!!!!!!!!

a) real cars dont wear bowties............

C ondition
H opeless
E ntire
V ehicle
R elies
O n
L eftover
E ngine
T echnology

bernie............

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 15:18:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: Drving experience..the imp ss driver

ok dustin, good point....your excused.....:-]

bernie

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 15:20:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: aol blows, need help

thanx for the tip Pat..........bernie

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 13:18:28 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Tail Light Problem

David L. Welsh wrote:
>
> I recently purchased a 69 Cutlass Supreme (Great Car!) for my 16 year old
> son. It needs some body work, but the 350 4 barrel runs great. We put a
> new ignition switch in and now have a problem with the tail lights.
> Everything works, except that the right directional lights, front and
> rear, come on with the brake lights.  The right blinker stops operating
> when you hit the brakes also.  Any ideas what I need to look for?
>

I think the first place to check would be the grounds and the lights
back there.  I think the ~last~ place to check would be the ignition
switch and/or turn signal switch.  Step one:  turn park lights and
hazzard flashers on.  Now walk around the vehicle and check for any
lights that aren't working.  Then check those bulbs out to see if
they're toast or not.  If so, (duh...) change em:)  If not, check the
ground connections in the sockets and at nearby locations (where the
socket harness actually makes ground)

Hope this helps, I'm kinda pressed for time so I won't go into deep
technicals right now.  If you (or anyone else) wants more info on that
subject, feel free to ask, and I'll try to get back on it next week...

- --

             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
             Box 524               | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Sidney, Montana 59270 | http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "TRBO LVR" (Maybe???:)| '83 Turbo Regal
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 19:24:35 GMT
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Sport Wheel

>hi all,  listen about the steering wheel goo, a friend of mine who has a
>uhpolstery shop told me a neat trick for them. he said to clean them real
>good then apply baby oil on them, yep!, common ol baby oil,  i thought he was
>pulling my leg but it it works!. at first it is (as expected) greasy, but
>after a couple of coatings its soft , not greasy, and no goo!.   then an
>ocassional rub down for maint.  he also told me not to use silicone on my
>interior . the sun only dries it out and promotes cracking!, the baby oil
>keeps it soft , doesn`t stain, and is a lot cheaper than armour-all . i put
>some on an old dash pad from a salvage yard that was hard and faded looking .
>soaked it down real good and let it set. after a couple of coats it looked
>new again. installed it in my car,(a conv.) and now with occassinal wipe down
>it still looks new,and is very soft. i did this car several years ago.

That sounds like a great idea; I suppose it would work on any vinyl, huh? Of
course, I'll be able to justify the smell, since I've got a baby due next
month; you single guys/gals will have to come up with some other story to
explain that "distinctive" smell...
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 14:10:13 -0500
From: Shoe-Man <jd.schumacher@baylordallas.edu>
Subject: Re: Speed Racer

My favorite episode is "The fastest car on Earth".  Bad guys dug up the
"GRX". Then they put it in what appeared to be a futuristic looking
Toronado painted Rocket 350 Gold.  Then decades later Oldsmobile renamed
the "GRX" to "Aurora". This was just a precaution to avoid possible law
suits with Chrysler and Buick.  Pops must of been an early member of OCA
cause he knew the whole history of the "GRX" before it was even buried.
He knew that it was so fast it took chemical preparation for each driver
that grabbed the wheel cause it would run at incredible speeds like the
W-30's to come.  Lots of thanks to the bad guys that dug the "GRX" up.
Without them the Aurora enginge might not of came to be. BTW, this is
two-part episode.

Hope this sheds some light on where the Aurora came from.

Anybody have an aspirn????

- --
John "Shoe-Man" Schumacher
North Texas Olds Club ª25464 Dynamic 88
Dallas, Texas69 442
OCA ª02115174 Cutlass Supreme
mailto:jd.schumacher@baylordallas.edu

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 15:29:09 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: ANY gm over FORD....ha ha ha

my 69 MACH 1 and my 67 442 conv and f-85, 86 salon get along fine, but a
chevy????  NEVER NEVER NEVER!!!!!!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 15:36:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Bandwidth and then some

True, maybe, but ya cant talk shop all the time, its nice to have fun with
other members, the bottom line is that we LOVE our cars. Its nice to know
where other members live and what cars they drive, even if their handicapped
and drive che.......
oh never mind, id drive a classic chevy over any modern day styleless
bubble...
Toyota's entire car line has to b the all time dullest ever, no style in the
whole lot.

My 2 cents worth
Bernie Segebade.....olds, ford, and NY JET fan

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 17:05:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Ch**y Transmission Swap

In a message dated 97-09-19 12:40:07 EDT, you write:

<< > Greetings List,
 >
 > Sorry to take up bandwidth but I have a minor non-olds problem. The
 > TH-700-R-4 in my wife's 85 S-10 Blazer went South. I have found a Mid 80's
 > Chevy conversion van with a 350 /TH-400. My question is: Will the 400 bolt
up
 > in place of the 700-R-4 (minus "massaging" the tunnel, modification to the
 > drive shaft, etc)? The engine in it for now is a 2.8L V-6.

" I believe the bolt patterns are different, unless the TH-400 is a
 universal trainy, (where it will bolt up to Pontiac/Buick/Olds/Chevy,
 these are rare though from my experience) I would think a TH-200
 would have better luck since they were used extensivly with V6's and
 V8's, thats my 2 cents anyway. Hope it helps."

<><><> There are bolt pattern differences betweenthe 200 and the 700
The 200 being of the Buick-Olds-pontiac persuation and the 700 Chevy.
now the TH400 he mentioned is froma Chevy motor so it should work,
driveshaft and crossmember concerns aside.



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 16:04:47 -0500
From: Paul Brillhart <u17058@uicvm.uic.edu>
Subject: Re: ANY gm over FORD....ha ha ha

RCKTPWR@aol.com wrote:

> my 69 MACH 1 and my 67 442 conv and f-85, 86 salon get along fine, but
> a
> chevy????  NEVER NEVER NEVER!!!!!!!!!!

So do my '67 and '65 442s with what's left of my '69 Mach 1.  Need any
parts?  Unlike the Olds's, the Ford is now defunct due to massive rust
associated with Illinois' liberal use of salt in the winter.  The '65 is
out of Arizona, so it doesn't understand what the Ford's problem is.
Later.

  Paul

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 17:17:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: BMAN6771@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1972 production figures

thanks

brnt 1967 ragtop

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 16:34:31 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: aol blows, need help

 Bernie,
This one works well for me.
http://www.sprynet.com/

Sprynet is owned by Compuserve and is $19.95 per month' unlimited. Almost
never had a busy signal and all their modems are 33.6kbps.
Just found out that AOL bought them though. That could really screw things
up. Also read that with AOL you fail at connecting 34% of the time. There
are others rated higher than Sprynet, but I'm not sure which ones.

Mick Gillespie, Columbus, Indiana
69 Cutlass S convertible
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

- -----Original Message-----
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com <RCKTPWR@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, September 19, 1997 2:52 AM
Subject: aol blows, need help



>anyone suggest a better isp than aol, cant use at night 6pm to 10pm,
constant
>errors when i dont do anything, anyone have a good provider to reccomend?
>
>thanks, bernie
>cranford nj
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 14:34:15 -0000
From: "Rod Beydler" <rodsmobile@MSCOMM.COM>
Subject: Re: Whats Up with the List

Maybe everyone found out about the C***y you just bought.

- ----------
> From: Rick <richardc@equitrac.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Whats Up with the List
> Date: Friday, September 19, 1997 9:46 AM
>
> I have not been receiving any EMAIL for a week and a 1/2 now is
> there something wrong???
>
> Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 14:38:02 -0000
From: "Rod Beydler" <rodsmobile@MSCOMM.COM>
Subject: Re: 400 vs. 425 vs. 455

Yes, there is no replacement for displacement. That's very true on the
street, but at the digs horsepower is a product of rpm and torque.

- ----------
> From: Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 400 vs. 425 vs. 455
> Date: Friday, September 19, 1997 4:26 PM
>
> > go in a hurry.  But it depends on what you will do with it.  There is
no
> > replacement for displacement.
>
> Amen to that!
>
>
>
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
> Highland Community College
> Phone (815) 235-6121
> Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
> -------------------------------------------------------
> "Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 18:30:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: 400 vs. 425 vs. 455

In a message dated 97-09-19 18:04:57 EDT, you write:

<< Yes, there is no replacement for displacement. That's very true on the
 street, but at the digs horsepower is a product of rpm and torque.

 ----------
 > From: Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
 > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
 > Subject: Re: 400 vs. 425 vs. 455
 > Date: Friday, September 19, 1997 4:26 PM
 >
 > > go in a hurry.  But it depends on what you will do with it.  There is
 no
 > > replacement for displacement.
 >
 > Amen to that!
 > >>

As an avid lover of GM big blocks since HS days....class of 72 <--old..
I would agree with one exception and only mention it because of all
the other guy talk thats been here lately.  Earlier this year we were
looking for another car to use as a nice weather driver that was not
going to depreciate like a new car and not cost as much.  Thought
about a Grand National, decided on a T Type, same car mechanically
only comes in colors, and found a very nice 87.  I am more impressed
everyday with this little 231 V6....Bottom line....Stock except K&N
and Fuel Pressure Regular, car runs 13's and get 30mpg on the
interstate.  It is definetaly a hole shotter with a 3.42 posi and the low
first gear of the TH200R4 and with the .67 OD it comes out to a 2.30
effective rear on the highway and has a lock up torque convertor.
I love my old cars and I love my Old'ses and will always have at least
one of them, but I AM VERY impressed with this V6 and could do
some simple mods and run with the built big boys. Friend in Omaha
runs 11's and gets 27 hiway.....Wish to hell my 68 did that!!!   TIM

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 18:43:33 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Bandwidth

>I hate to sound curmudgeonly...>

Sound what?  What does the "C" word mean? Seriously.

RC Hellebuyck

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 18:35:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: Whats Up with the List

Chevy?? Chevy?? Chevy??? well he cant b banished from the list, chevy
ownership is its own torture!!!!!!!!!!!
                                   :-}

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 18:42:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: 400 vs. 425 vs. 455

In a message dated 97-09-19 18:04:57 EDT, you write:

<< Yes, there is no replacement for displacement. That's very true on the
 street, but at the digs horsepower is a product of rpm and torque.

 ----------
 > From: Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
 > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
 > Subject: Re: 400 vs. 425 vs. 455
 > Date: Friday, September 19, 1997 4:26 PM
 >
 > > go in a hurry.  But it depends on what you will do with it.  There is
 no
 > > replacement for displacement.
 >
 > Amen to that!
 > >>

As an avid lover of GM big blocks since HS days....class of 72 <--old..
I would agree with one exception and only mention it because of all
the other guy talk thats been here lately.  Earlier this year we were
looking for another car to use as a nice weather driver that was not
going to depreciate like a new car and not cost as much.  Thought
about a Grand National, decided on a T Type, same car mechanically
only comes in colors, and found a very nice 87.  I am more impressed
everyday with this little 231 V6....Bottom line....Stock except K&N
and Fuel Pressure Regular, car runs 13's and get 30mpg on the
interstate.  It is definetaly a hole shotter with a 3.42 posi and the low
first gear of the TH200R4 and with the .67 OD it comes out to a 2.30
effective rear on the highway and has a lock up torque convertor.
I love my old cars and I love my Old'ses and will always have at least
one of them, but I AM VERY impressed with this V6 and could do
some simple mods and run with the built big boys. Friend in Omaha
runs 11's and gets 27 hiway.....Wish to hell my 68 did that!!!   TIM

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 19:06:59 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: ANY gm over FORD....ha ha ha

hey paul, watcha got?? shaker?? E-mail me at Rcktpwr@aol.com..thanks, bernie

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 19:20:25 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Original key blanks for sale

I have original GM key blanks for sale, both trunk and ignition.  They
have "GM" & "Mark of Excellence" on them.  Only $1.00 each + postage.
(which isn't that much via US mail).

Please specify keyway;  A, B, C, D, E, H, J, or K

By the way, I forgot to mention in my list bio that I'm a part-time
locksmith.  If I can help with any lock re-lated stuff or hard to find
parts ask me.  If I don't know I'll find out for you.

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 19:11:49 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: 1973 hurst olds for sale

I was driving along in my "merry Oldsmobile", when low & behold I came
upon a 1973 hurst olds for sale.  In my opinion it's a real nice and in
ª3 condition.  Sign said:  "appraised at $4800. - $5200.,  Make offer"

White w/black interior
louvered hood
buckets w/ auto console

rear bumper needs re-chroming
paint job so so
SSII wheels (gold)
couldn't see the vin because of 4 sale sign

Interested?  e-mail at mrhell@sprynet.com and I'll get the phone ª

I'm in MI by the way.

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 19:23:17 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: will a 350 stove pipe fit a 455?

A local junkyard in my area has a 70 cutlass that has a 350 with an
intact exhaust manifold housing and heat pipe.

MY QUESTIONs:

Will these parts fit my 1971 4-4-2 with a 455?

Thanks,

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 19:26:30 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: 70-72  dash clock

Found a dash clock for a 1970 - 1972 cutlass.  It's appearance is in
EC.  Not sure if it works, but I'll find out.

Let me know if anyone's interested.

Save bandwidth!  e-mail me direct at:  mrhell@sprynet.com

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 19:43:14 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: the new Olds logo?

what's everyone think about the new Olds logo?

Myself, I believe a new logo was needed since most of the new cars
don't deserve to have a rocket on them.  I think the new logo is very
90s and stylish, but have a problem with because it resembles the Nike
logo.  I see it, I think of shoes!?!

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 19:35:25 -0400 (EDT)
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: VIN Number Decoding

I'm looking at a Rallye350. Can you guys help me decode the VIN? I really
need help with the last five numbers!
VIN NUMBER
336870M254268
I don't know the engine number but it's been redone.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 20:10:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: CarrDuff@aol.com
Subject: Re: TicTocTac

In a message dated 97-09-19 06:08:13 EDT, you write:

<< Subj:TicTocTac
 Date:97-09-19 06:08:13 EDT
 From:DROLDS350@aol.com
 Sender:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
     Hello, My 1970 has RallyPac Gauges and a tictoctac. The clock in it
doesn't
     work. My question is has anyone ever had theres made to quartz and is it
hard
     to do? I have heard that there are kits available. Can you also
reccommend
     anybody? any help on this topic would be greatly appreciated!
     Jim
       70 Cutlass W31

Jim,
  I have done several conversions to the standard Olds clock.  The kits are
available from several sources, I have actually purchased kits from JC
Whitney, (Cost around $30.00).

  The kits come with complete instructions.  All you need is several small
tools.

   I have not yet done a tach-clock combo..  I don't know, but I would
believe the operators are the same.

Steve Dietrich
  S/E PA
    71 442 W30 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 20:15:56 -0400
From: Joe Artwell <tjf26@gte.net>
Subject: 455 MOTORS 4-SALE UPDATE

I SPOKE TO MY NEIGHBOR, FRANK, HIS TELª330-723-2071. IF ANYONE IS
INTERESTED GIVE HIM A CALL. HE HAS 3 HE WANTS TO GET RID OF.
                      JOE

1971 442

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 00:22:30 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: '70 Supreme Taillight lenses

Though the bumper is in serious need of rechroming, I was pleased to
discover that the taillight lenses on my SX weathered 13 years outside
pretty well. I'd heard about the raised chrome ring on the lenses, and in
fact my car has those. What I haven't heard anybody mention is the atrocious
overspray on these pieces! The sides of the lenses have a lot of gray
overspray, so much so that I'm still wondering whether it's some kind of
overspray from the chroming process for that raised portion, or if in fact
the factory meant for the sides to be gray and just did a poor job of it.

Anyone have a clue as to what the proper detailing of that taillight should
be like? Mine's an early-production car, if that makes any difference.

TIA
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 17:28:35 -0500
From: Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@themall.net>
Subject: Re: Tail Light Problem

>David L. Welsh wrote:
>>
>> I recently purchased a 69 Cutlass Supreme (Great Car!) for my 16 year old
>> son. It needs some body work, but the 350 4 barrel runs great. We put a
>> new ignition switch in and now have a problem with the tail lights.
>> Everything works, except that the right directional lights, front and
>> rear, come on with the brake lights.  The right blinker stops operating
>> when you hit the brakes also.  Any ideas what I need to look for?
>>
>
>I think the first place to check would be the grounds and the lights
>back there.  I think the ~last~ place to check would be the ignition
>switch and/or turn signal switch.  Step one:  turn park lights and
>hazzard flashers on.  Now walk around the vehicle and check for any
>lights that aren't working.  Then check those bulbs out to see if
>they're toast or not.  If so, (duh...) change em:)  If not, check the
>ground connections in the sockets and at nearby locations (where the
>socket harness actually makes ground)
>
>Hope this helps, I'm kinda pressed for time so I won't go into deep
>technicals right now.  If you (or anyone else) wants more info on that
>subject, feel free to ask, and I'll try to get back on it next week...
>
>--
>
>             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
>             Box 524               | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
>             Sidney, Montana 59270 | http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
>             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
>             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
>     "TRBO LVR" (Maybe???:)| '83 Turbo Regal
>                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

I have exactly the same problem with my '69!  What causes it is the lack of
a good ground on the tail light assemblies.  The way it seems to be
designed is that the chome bezel is supposed to touch the frame of the tail
light and bolting the bezel to the frame grounds the bezel and hence the
tail light.  The tail light is not in direct contact with the frame because
of the thick rubber gasket which is supposed to keep the water out of the
trunk and prevent rusting of the openings (which happened to my car).

As a temporary fix, I bent a piece of metal and wedged it between the tail
light housing and the frame, this had a tendency to fall out whenever I hit
a bump.  I finally soldered a piece of wire to the housing (on the outside
so it is not too noticable) and crimped a ring lug to the other end.  I put
this under one of the bezel nuts(after scraping the pain a little) and it
is now rock solid.


Lloyd Ferguson
ferguson@themall.net
(818) 241-9350

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 20:35:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: CarrDuff@aol.com
Subject: Re: fan clutch leak

In a message dated 97-09-19 00:20:10 EDT, you write:

 Any help on this one?  If it's still leaking, it's a slow one!  Need I
 worry?  Never delt with a fan clutch before.  Thanks for any help.

 RC Hellebuyck
 1971 4-4-2 covt. >>

RC,

 I had the same problem, only with a clutch I had stored away while I did a
restoration. When I put it back on the car and ran it the engine just over
heated.

  You are going to need a new one.

Steve Dietrich
  S/E PA
    71 442 W30 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 20:36:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: CarrDuff@aol.com
Subject: Re: how to bring back that gold shine

In a message dated 97-09-19 00:18:48 EDT, you write:

<< Subj: how to bring back that gold shine

 RC Hellebuyck
 1971 4-4-2 covt.

RC,
  As you saw in the responses to this that Eastwood sells a complete kit.  It
is a 4 step paint process.   A friend has tried this kit and had a hard time
getting the right effect.  He tried 4-5 times when he finally ran out of one
of the colors and had to go buy another can of spray.

  I didn't think the results with the Eastwood kit were that spectacular.  I
have experimented with off the self spray paint purchased from Sears Hardware
and have found the following combination works as good as the Eastwood Kit (@
about a 1/4 of the price).

  Spray the entire piece with a gloss silver,  apply a light coat of gold,
highlight areas with green and give it all another quick mist of gold and
clear coat to give it a smooth finish.

  The best and most original way though would be to send it out and have it
dipped.

Steve Dietrich
  S/E PA
    71 442 W30 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 20:38:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: CarrDuff@aol.com
Subject: Fall Carlise

Just wondering,  anyone here planning to attend the fall Carlise in two weeks
?

I'm planning on going 10/03/97.

Steve Dietrich
  S/E PA
    71 442 W30 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 20:50:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: BMAN6771@aol.com
Subject: FS: 1972 442 4-speed

FOR SALE: 1972 442 4-speed. originally a 350 4-speed car but comes with a
455.
descent body....needs restoration. $1,500 OBO
for more info and/or phone number e-mail me privatley.

brent
1967 cutlass ragtop

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 21:13:33 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: the new Olds logo?

agree, the logo should have been more "rocket like"

bernie

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 20:31:25 -0500
From: Charles Lundin <cblundin@flash.net>
Subject: Re: fan clutch leak Also seen in 77 Supreme

mrhell@m1.sprynet.com wrote:
>
> After the wife and I returned home from our 2 week vacation, I
> anxiously uncovered the car and AAHHH!  There was a small puddle a
> little bigger than a dollar piece.  The fluid was unusual, it was kind
> of sticky, had no odor and was bluish/gray in color.  I then discovered
> another small puddle on the bottom of the fan shroud.
>
> So, I'm assuming it's fluid from the fan clutch.  Since I bought the
> car in June, this is the longest it has sat without driving it, (2
> weeks).
>
> I drive it alot, put on almost 4,000 miles since June 2, 1997.
>
> Any help on this one?  If it's still leaking, it's a slow one!  Need I
> worry?  Never delt with a fan clutch before.  Thanks for any help.
>
> RC Hellebuyck
> 1971 4-4-2 covt.
My 77 supreme 260v8 with High Capacity Radiator had that problem. Leaked
empty before I noticed it. Had to replace the entire fan on it to get a
new clutch assembly. The symptom..the engine overheated just as iff
there were no water in the radiator or iff the water pump had stoped
pumping....but the radiator was full. Faster speed saw the temperature
dial go down, slow driving or idle saw the temp guage max out!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 19:49:59 -0600 (MDT)
From: bhorn@tnc.com (Beverley Horn)
Subject: Re: VIN Number Decoding

>I'm looking at a Rallye350. Can you guys help me decode the VIN? I really
>need help with the last five numbers!
>VIN NUMBER
>336870M254268
>I don't know the engine number but it's been redone.
>

I am looking for some information regarding a Rallye350 also. I would like
help decoding a VIN....It is

336770M308150

Any help decoding it would be greatly apprecitaed...

Thanks
Shayne Horn
Rallye350
85 Olds 442

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 21:54:37 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: fan clutch leak

>RC,
>
> I had the same problem, only with a clutch I had stored away while I did a
>restoration. When I put it back on the car and ran it the engine just over
>heated.
>
>  You are going to need a new one.
>
>Steve Dietrich
>  S/E PA
>    71 442 W30 Conv.
>


Thanks Steve!

RC

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 21:56:33 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: fan clutch leak Also seen in 77 Supreme

Amazing how important a fan really is isn't?  Thanks for the feedback.

RC

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 21:53:11 -0400
From: Peter Small <104323.165@compuserve.com>
Subject: 81 Delta '88 2dr parts

Parting out an 81 2dr. delta 88.  Please E-Mail me with needs.


==============================================
Peter Small

'72 442 Conv,             '71 W30/M22,
'68 427 Vette conv   '71 Supreme [driveway rat]

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 22:04:52 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: how to bring back that gold shine

>RC,
>  As you saw in the responses to this that Eastwood sells a complete kit.  It
>is a 4 step paint process.   A friend has tried this kit and had a hard time
>getting the right effect.  He tried 4-5 times when he finally ran out of one
>of the colors and had to go buy another can of spray.
>
>  I didn't think the results with the Eastwood kit were that spectacular...


Hey thanks alot for the info.  The insides of the cruise servo are like new. I
had a hard time believing that a spray kit could get that type of finish.
I'll try your suggested formula though.  What the heck, it's better than
painting satin black, (my first thought).

Thanks again,

RC hellebuyck

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 19:06:00 -0700
From: Brad Bowles <wolds@napanet.net>
Subject: 8.5" ring gear  10 bolt

Is this the correct size of the rear end in my 70 442?  It has the 12
bolt cover.
Is this the same size that is advertized in Summit and Jegs?  If so,
there are gears/posi units avalable to me?
Thanks
Brad
70 442

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 22:00:31 -0700
From: "J. Michael Wolfe" <boogah@en.com>
Subject: Fuel Requirements

Found a station that sells "Regular" leaded fuel. Is there any benefit
in using this over unleaded in a 72 350 engine.

The owners manual states that 91 or higher octane fuel should be used in
the 72.  Any thoughts or comments from the experts out there?

Joe
72 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 22:09:21 -0400
From: kevin hawkins <hawk455@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: E-400 motor

Jim & Joanne Chermack wrote:
>
> Chris
>
>         YES! They will rev higher than a 425. Got a little less piston mass.
> These things will turn almost 7000 RPM. Just got my short stroke with the
> Arias pistons
> NHRA cheater cam .475 lift, 328/348 duration on 107 degree lobe centers
> back. This thing is going to fly when installed in my 67 W-30 with 4.33's.
> We're looking for mid to high 12's without hurting the engine whatsoever.
>         I need one of your universal flywheels if they are avail. Didn't
> know anyone had one.
>         Yep. ALL TC and W engines had the casting number followed by a -1
> cast in above the center exhaust ports. Also, the TC and W engines had the
> letters TC or W stamped in the passenger side head with the unit number.
> Interesting huh?
> Std 442 400's just had plain big valve "B" heads.
>         Got this info drummed into me by a couple of my 66-67 W-30 experts.
>
> Jim Chermack
>
> At 12:42 AM 9/13/97 -0400, you wrote:
> >On the E-400 motor, Jim Chermack writes:
> >-They rev higher than any other BB...
> >
> >[[Even the 425?]]
> >
> >-the lifters are around $150 a set...
> >
> >[[Last set I bought was about $90- try National Automotive Lines, JC 
Whitney,
> >and Engine Service Group. ]]
> >
> >-Also the flex plate or the flywheels
> >are different from 68 and later. The bolt pattern is funky. So you MUST have
> >one of the 66-67 parts. Otherwise it's just like any other Olds engine. Hope
> >this helps.
> >
> >[[Unless, of course, you use one of my race-proven universal flexplates, fit
> >all the V8 engines '64 thru 90 or whenever they quit making them. -RS]]
> >
> >[[66 TC & W motors had "dash-1" heads? Dang, another thing to add to the FAQ
I > >guess... so, you say this was after the *casting* number. Are you saying
the > >very casting was different, with a CAST-in "-1" after the casting ID, or
same > >old casting, but with a STAMPED-in "-1" after the cast ID, or a stamped
in "-1" > >after the typical Engine Unit Number which was stamped into the 
front
of the RH > >head? > >  The cast-in casting ID mentioned above would be the
6-digit id found usually > >on pre-68 heads among the valvesprings, and split
into 3-n-3 on each side of > >the lower center RACover bolt on later heads. ]] 
>
> > >-- > >Chris  B. Witt > >*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro,
442, and 442... > >wittchri@pilot.msu.edu > > i have 400 olds 67 if u need
flywheel i have 2  my car runs 12.43  106 mph  please reply on them no alot of
tricks  not to good with comp. but good with olds

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 22:15:49 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: the new Olds logo?

On Fri, 19 Sep 1997, RCKTPWR@aol.com wrote:
>agree, the logo should have been more "rocket like"
>
>bernie
>


In case you didn't see it Bernie, (I didn't notice it myself for quite
a while), the logo is actually a rocket.  It's a ripped off version
from the 50s logo that was made too artsy for my blue collar butt.

Like most people, I don't care for change. (but it's necessary I
know...)   After they shove it down your throat a couple of years it
seems to grow on you though.  Example; the current dodge ram pick-up.
Thought it looked like a diesel want-to-be at first.  Now I might just
buy one!   :)

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 22:22:21 -0400 (EDT)
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: MCC on-line voting(olds related)

In a message dated 97-09-19 03:33:25 EDT, you write:

<< Uh, hello, whats MCC???? >>
MY CLASSIC CAR SHOW THAT AIRS ON TNN (THE NASHVILLE NETWORK) ON SAT AND SUN.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 22:33:06 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: Fuel Requirements

Wow!  Where is this station!?!  I didn't think it existed for public use
anymore.  Just curious, how much a gallon?

1971 and later had the hardened valves.  Ok to use unleaded.  I would
think it might run better on leaded, (wouldn't hurt the vales either).

What someone else think?

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.


On Fri, 19 Sep 1997, "J. Michael Wolfe" <boogah@en.com> wrote:
>Found a station that sells "Regular" leaded fuel. Is there any benefit
>in using this over unleaded in a 72 350 engine.
>
>The owners manual states that 91 or higher octane fuel should be used in
>the 72.  Any thoughts or comments from the experts out there?
>
>Joe
>72 Cutlass Supreme
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 21:35:02 -0500
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: 400 vs. 425 vs. 455

- ----------
> From: Rod Beydler <rodsmobile@MSCOMM.COM>
>
>
> Yes, there is no replacement for displacement. That's very true on the
> street, but at the digs horsepower is a product of rpm and torque.
>
More displacement more torque.

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 22:34:50 -0400
From: kevin hawkins <hawk455@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale

J. Michael Wolfe wrote:
>
> Jim & Joanne Chermack wrote:
> >
> >                                         C&M Classic Parts
> >
> > Hours:  Mon-Fri  6:00 pm - 10:00 pm, Sat 9:00 am - 6:00 pm
> > As of September 20, we are accepting all major Credit Cards. VISA, Master
> > Card, American Express, and Discover cards.
> > New Parts:
____________________________________________________________________ > > 66 442
Side Mount Tach (maroon, works, nice)  $225.00 > > 66 F-85 Post Coupe Doors
(very good cond)  $200.00 pr > > 66 F-85/Cutlass grille  (nice)  $50.00 > > 66
F-85 Trunk Lid  (nice)  $125.00 > > 66 330 cu in 2 bbl engine (complete 
w/trans,
17,000 original miles)  $350.00 > > 66-67 Clutch Z-Bar  $50.00 > > 66-67 Rear
Side window lower U-seals (new, Metro Moulded)  $17.00 pr > > 67 Cutlass Fender
Emblems (nice)  $10.00 ea > > 67 Plain Cutlass Fender Rockets (nice)  $5.00 ea 
>
> 67 Rear Defrost setup (w/switch)  $50.00 > > 68-72 Rear Defrost  (no switch)
$30.00 > > 68-69 Rallye Pac. tach and gauges (with tach harness)  $325.00 > > 
69
Cruise Control Switch and Bezel  $25.00 > > 69 Radiator Core Support 3 Row
(mint, no rust holes)  $150.00 > > 15x7 SSIII's (snap on caps no rings) 4
$125.00 > > 70 Auto Console and shifter (mint, replated top plate & wood grain)
$275.00 > > 70 OAI Hood (nice) 2 very tiny stress cracks at scoop  $950.00 > >
70-75 Sport Wheel (black with blue center and collar)  $125.00 > > 70-71 Halo
Vinyl Top Molding sets no "L " moldings (mint) $55.00 set > > 70-72 455 Std.
Iron intake manifold (auto cars)  $75.00 > > 70-72 Std. Console Shift Lens
(repro)  $23.00 ea > > 70 Sport Mirrors (nice sets)  $155.00 set > > 70 Cutlass
Supreme Hood (excellent)  $100.00 > > 70 442/SX/Rally 350 Rear Cutout Bumper
(CORE)  $110.00 > > 70-72 RH Door (Coupe/Conv)  $125.00 > > 69-72 Bucket Seats
(need recovering)  $40.00 pr > > 69-72 Column Shift Steering Column (plain)
$45.00 > > 64-72 Power Window Motors  (excellent cond) $50.00 ea > > 71 C/S 
Door
Panels (white w/pwr windows)  $40.00 pr > > 71-72 W-455 Aluminum intake ((2)
1/8th in repaired cracks) $675.00 > > 71 350 4 bbl Engine (complete, carb to
pan, runs excellent) $250.00 > > 68-72 Power Steering setup  (complete)  
$50.00 >
> 71-72 8-Track Player (doesn't work)   $85.00 > > 71 Cutlass/442 Taillight 
Lens
$10.00 ea > > Bumper Bracket sets ALL years  $25.00 pr > > 70-72 455 Engine
Mounts (NEW)  $40.00 pr > > 68-72 350 Engine Mounts (NEW)  $38.00 pr > > TH350
Shift Cable Bracket  $15.00 > > > > New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts for 1964-1972
Cutlass/442 > > _______________________________________________ > > 66-72 SSI
Center Caps (N.O.S.) $34.50 ea > > 68-75 SSII/III Center Caps (N.O.S.) $34.50 
ea >
> 69 Cutlass RH Grilles (N.O.S.) $85.00 ea > > 70 Cutlass Supreme Grilles
(N.O.S.)  $110.00 pr > > 70-72 LH Coupe/Conv Door Skin (N.O.S.)  $200.00 > >
70-72 Cutlass/442 LH Fenders (N.O.S.) $450.00 ea > > 71-72 Turn Signal Lens
(N.O.S.)  $90.00 pr > > 71-72 Stone Shields (N.O.S.) $38.00 ea > > 71-72
Headlight Housings (plastic) (N.O.S.) $80.00 pr > > 71-72 Cutlass Rear Bumpers
(N.O.S.) $380.00 ea > > 71-75  Cutlass Fender Emblems (N.O.S.)  $19.50 ea > > 
72
Cutlass Supreme & Hurst/Olds Grilles (N.O.S.)  $125.00 pr > > > > Used Parts > 
>
_______________________________________________ > > 64 Cutlass/442 > > RH
Headlight Bezel  $15.00 > > Front Bumper Core  $40.00 > > LH/RH Taillight Lens
$8.00 ea > > F-85 Fender Emblem (nice)  $5.00 > > V-8 Emblem  $5.00 > > > > 65
Cutlass/442 > > 65 Cutlass/442 Wheelwell Moldings  $20.00 ea > > 65 Hood 
Molding
(fair cond)  $10.00 > > > > 66 Cutlass/442 > > 66 Cutlass/442 Hood Molding
(good cond)  $30.00 > > 66-67 AM Radios  (nice)  $25.00 ea > > 66-67 RH Hardtop
Doors (very nice)  $130.00 ea > > 66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect
repro)  $40.00 > > 66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00
($78.00 set) > > 66 Cutlass/442 Full Turbine Hubcaps (very, very nice)  $230.00
set > > Cutlass/442 Headlight Bezels  $40.00 pr > > > > LH C/S Rear side 
molding
$10.00 > > Exterior A-Pillar Chrome Moldings  $15.00 pr > > F-85/Cutlass
Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea > > > > 67 Cutlass/442 > > 66-67 AM Radios  (nice)
$25.00 ea > > 66-67 RH Hardtop Doors (very nice)  $130.00 ea > > 66/67 Repro
Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00 > > 66/67 Repro Heater Delete 
Plates
(perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set) > > 67 F-85 Rear Bumper (very good
condition)  $75.00 > > 67 442 Grille Bar  (nice)  $40.00 > > 67 442 Hood (some
rust)  $85.00 > > 67 Front Bumper (straight, core)  $65.00 > > 67 Cutlass
Headlight Bezels (nice)  $55.00 pr > > 67 442 Trunk Lids (clean)  $130.00 ea > 
>
67 442 Pie Tin Decal  $5.00 > > 67 442 Chrome Trunk Panel (excellent)  $125.00 
>
> 67 442 Tail Light Bezels (some pitting)  $50.00 pr > > 67 RH Fender (small
hole, straight)  $200.00 > > > > 68 Cutlass/442 > > 68 Hood Hinges  $50.00 pr >
> 68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00 > > 68-69 LH Quarter Panel  4
door (mint)  $225.00 > > 68-69 RH Quarter Panel  4 door (mint)  $225.00 > >
68/69 SSII 14x6 Wheels (4) mint  $160.00 set > > 68-69 Top Fender Moldings 
(near
windshield, mint)  $40.00 pr > > 68-72 Cutlass S LH Rear Side Glass (clear)
$35.00 > > Rear Window Molding Sets  $85.00 set > > 68 Cutlass/442 Std Horn
Button (black, nice)  $7.00 > > 68 Air Cleaner Stove Pipe (pipe only)  $10.00 >
> 68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $20.00 ea > > 68-72 Cowl mouldings  $25.00 ea > >
68-72 B-Pillar Molding Set (black, mint) $25.00 pr > > > > 69 Cutlass/442 > > 
69
Lower Dash (radio area)  (nice)  $45.00 > > 69 C/S Side Moldings  $20.00 ea > >
68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00 > > 68-69 LH Quarter Panel 4 
door
(mint)  $225.00 > > 68-69 RH Quarter Panel 4 door (mint)  $225.00 > > 68/69 
SSII
14x6 Wheels (4) mint  $160.00 set > > 68-69 Top Fender Moldings (near
windshield, mint)  $40.00 pr > > 69 Cutlass/442 Doors (mint pair)  $300.00 pr /
$160.00 ea > > Hood Hinges  $50.00 pr > > Hood Louver Chrome  $35.00 pr > > 
Hood
Louver Moldiings  $35.00 pr > > Windshield Molding Sets  $65.00 set > > Rear
Window Molding Sets  $85.00 set > > 69-72 Floor Shift Steering Column (very
good)  $100.00 > > 69 Cutlass/442 Front Bumper (good cond) $100.00 > > 69 LH 
Top
Fender Moldings (excellent) $35.00 > > 69 LH Fender (tiny rust hole)  $250.00 >
> 69 RH Fender (small nickel sized hole)  $250.00 > > 69 Rear Bumper (V05 rub
strip) one small ding  $135.00 > > 69 Front and Rear 4 Doors  (small dings, no
rust) $75.00 ea > > 69 4 Door Panels (Gold, cloth, nice)  $40.00 ea > > > > 70
Cutlass/442 > > 70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switch Bezels  $5.00 ea > > 70 RH
Sport Mirror Shell  $40.00 > > 70 F-85 Horn Button (cheap style wheel,
excellent)  $10.00 > > 70 Oldsmobile Options Folder  $5.00 > > 69-70 C/S Front
Hood Rocket (nice)  $12.00 > > "S" Hood Chrome Vents  $35.00 pr > > "S" Hood
Vent Moldings  $35.00 pr > > "S" Pillared Coupe Door Panels (good cond)  $40.00
pr > > Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $90.00 > > Black A/C Dash Pads  $100.00 ea > >
Blue Auto Shift Console  $125.00 (w/shifter) > > 70-71 Glove Box Doors  $15.00
ea > > 70-72 RH Fender (needs patch panel)   $145.00 > > 70 Cutlass 'S' Tail
Light Lens   $10.00 ea > > 70-72 Cutlass S Vinyl Top rear moldings (few pits)
$8.00 pr > > 70 Cutlass Supreme Flat Hood   $125.00 > > > > 71 Cutlass/442 > >
71 Cutlass Full Wheel Covers  $30.00 set > > 71-72 Sport Mirrors (excellent
cond)  $100.00 pr > > 71-72 Cutlass S/442 Hood Louvers (nice)  $35.00 pr > >
71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00 > > 71 Front Rocket Emblem
(nice)  $5.00 > > 71 Full Wheel Covers  $30.00 set > > > > 72 Cutlass/442 > >
71-72 10 Bolt 2.56:1 (open rear)  $75.00 > > 71-72 Sport Mirrors (excellent
cond)  $100.00 pr > > 72 Cutlass/442 Owners Manual  $7.00 > > 72 Cutlass 
Supreme
Side Moldings (excellent)  $110.00 set > > 71-72 Cutlass S/442 Hood Louvers
(nice)  $35.00 pr > > 71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00 > > > 
>
We have a ' 71 Supreme Coupe to part out. Rough body. Good drive train. No > >
disc brakes. Has A/C, good dash pad, white rear seat (good), P/S, glass, > >
lots of small stuff. > > > > Jim Chermack > > OCA ª24275 > > C&M Classic Parts 
>
> Virginia  Beach, VA > > (757) 474-0869 > Jim: > > Re the 71 Cutlass tail
light lenses, would the total be 40.00 for the > complete set ( 2 on each side)
or 20.00 (10.00 for each set of 2)? > > Re the 71 supreme that you are 
parting: >
Do you have an original 4V manifold, air cleaner, and carb? > > Do you have a
driver side headlight bezel? > > Thanks > Joe how much to ship 350 motor to
RHODE ISLAND and i can see good things coming  please email me on this   have 
72
olds 400  runs 12.52   106 mph thanks

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª857
********************************
