To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #827


oldsmobile-digest      Monday, September 1 1997      Volume 01 : Number 827



Re: Drag car buildup advice needed
Re: Spline ª's
Quiet
Re: '84 H/O rough idle.
1958 Olds 88 (fwd)
X-Mailer: <PC Eudora Version 1.4b22>
Re: 455 timing:MSD-6AL & HEI
Re: Repair of O.A.I. Hoods
Re: Replacing resistor wires
Re: Julian Show
Subject: FUNNY: The Bird
Re: PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Aug 1997 16:39:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: Drag car buildup advice needed

if i were you i would go for the '72.  with a 72 you can buy all the parts
for it.  they sell 3" mandrill bent exhaust w/tailpipes.  also you can build
your exhaust without cats.  the headers and other parts are easy to get.
 with the 72 you can find a rear-end from any other GM a-body car from 68-72.
 the only bad thing is brakes.  the 72, i think has all wheel drum brakes?

mikey tvb@aol.com
'73 olds cutlass
'70 olds 442 (in progress)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Aug 1997 23:34:33 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Spline ª's

At 05:45 PM 8/30/97 -0700, you wrote:
>I need to know what the spline ª is on a '70 442 rear end.  It is a 12
>bolt cover with the 10 bolt ring gear.
>Thanks
>Brad
>

Brad

        It should be 27 on the axles. The 68's were 31. Don't remember how
many on the pinion.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Aug 1997 05:41:33 -0700
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Quiet

Hi all,

Wow it sure is quite on the list today.  Only got three messages.
Y'all must be on vacation.

NON_OLDS:  Isn't it a shame about what happened to Diana Spencer.  It
 sure has killed my holiday spirit.

Later....
Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Aug 1997 11:05:35 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: '84 H/O rough idle.

when you change the metering rods you should also change the idle jets.
 sometimes they get effected by new rods.  that's the only thing i can think
of.  i had the same problem with my car.  i tried to change everything, but
nothing worked.  then i adjusted the jets and then reset the timing.  after
that my car ran much better.


mikey tvb@aol.com

73 cutlass s w/403
70 442 (in progress)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Aug 1997 11:41:08 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: 1958 Olds 88 (fwd)

Hope one of you can assist this lady.
I told her the usual: Join OCA, get a Hemming's, write to Olds history Center
[forgot the address though]. Consult the FAQ. Sent her Franklin Graf's ad from
the latest JWO- he does 50's Rocket motors.

What else can we do for her? Give her a nice welcome email if you can, eh?

> We've just purchased a 1958 Olds 88 that our teen-age son wants to
> restore.  It is in good shape body-wise, but we've pulled the
> motor/transmission.  Supposedly it is a 271?  and we haven't found
> anyone that has a reuild kit or parts to fit.  We thought maybe we would
> just replace.  Can this motor be made to run and is it really
> expensive.  We though we would be better off changing it to something
> more popular so parts would be readily available.    Anyway I'm trying
> to find out info.  Please help a worried mom!
>
> Also how can I get information on how many of these cars are known to
> exist today?
>
> Thanks for your help.  This is my work e-mail.  If you would prefer to
> send a message to my hom it is RStan14950aol.com.
>  Thanks, Jean Stanley
>


- --
Chris  B. Witt
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Aug 1997 12:42:51 -0400
From: evans1@serv01.net-link.net
Subject: X-Mailer: <PC Eudora Version 1.4b22>

Hey, did I get bounced somehow or is Greg not back from Lansing yet?


Mike Evans
Richland, MI
evans1@net-link.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Aug 1997 12:04:18 -0500
From: "Jeff Easton" <easton@calcon.net>
Subject: Re: 455 timing:MSD-6AL & HEI

Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 00:56:22 -0300
From: Rich Inacker <rinacker@voicenet.com>

>FWIW, this is the ignition curve I'm running:

>RPM           Degrees Advance
> 800                 18
> 900                 18.5
>1000                 21
>1200                 24
>1500                 26
>1750                 30
>2200                 36
>5000                 34

Is the above listings total advance?  I'm assuming
that total advance is = mechanical advance (set w/
timing light) + centrifical advance (springs) @RPM +
Vacuum advance @ vacuum.  Is that the right formula?

The distributor I just picked up came w/ a card, with
these specs:

Centrifical Advance

RPMAdvance
10002  deg.  (start)
160010 deg.
230015 deg.
270020 deg.
300024 deg.  (full)

Vacuum Advance

Vac.Advance
10 inches2  deg.
18 inches16 deg.

Using the above formula, with a 12 degrees
of mechanical advance set, at 3000 rpm and 18 inches
of vacuum I would have 52 degrees total advance.  Sounds
rather high to me.

- -Jeff
jeff.easton@abbott.com

1970  442  4-Speed

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Aug 1997 11:13:23 -0500
From: "Jeff Easton" <easton@calcon.net>
Subject: Re: Repair of O.A.I. Hoods

Date: Fri, 29 Aug 1997 13:16:30 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>

>>    In the event that I am not able to satisfactorily repair the metal
>>    panel, has anyone replaced this with one from a metal hood?  Are the
>>    two actually the same (it appears that they are)?

>Joe, I went and looked at my OAI on my 71, and at an old full-metal hood
>from a 71. The bottom framework looks exactly the same.

>FWIW,
>Mike Rothe

Uh, on my '70 hoods, there is a significant difference.  On the
metal hood, the front and rear triangle are depressed upward
(away from the engine compartment).  On my OAI hood, the back
triangle (toward the windsheild) is not depressed upward, but
in fact is bent the otherway.  And of course there is a large
round hole stamped in the center of that triangle... :-)

I'm guessing that the rear triangle sheetmetal was formed in
the opposite direction to get the sheetmetal closer to the
OAI flapper assembly (thus a shorter foam gasket) and to
keep the volume in the hood scoops larger.

- -Jeff
jeff.easton@abbott.com

1970 442  4-Speed

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Aug 1997 11:45:10 -0500
From: "Jeff Easton" <easton@calcon.net>
Subject: Re: Replacing resistor wires

Date: Fri, 29 Aug 1997 18:27:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: BobH592058@aol.com

>>>I would replace it. The resistor wire/bock is used to reduce the
>>>voltage to the points, to help prolong there life. You would want the
>>>full voltage to the Pertonix unit.

>>>Bobby

>>These were my thoughts exactly. Was hoping some of you would increase my
>>confidence about yanking the old wire. Thanks.

>>roger

The Pertronix instructions are clear as mud on this issue.

On one sheet, under "Useful Information", it states;

  "The red ignitor wire should be connected to the switch (positive(+))
side
   of the coil, or if a ballast resistor is used, the preferable connection
   is to the ignition side of the ballast resistor.  Check the coil to see
   if a ballast resistor is required, replace if missing."

On another sheet, under "Pre-installation checks", it states;

  "NOTE: In most circuits that use an external ballast resistor, this
resistor
   is bypassed during starting, putting the full battery voltage to the (+)
   terminal of the coil.  In those cases where an external ballast resistor
is
   used and is not bypassed during starting, the red or white wire from the

   module will have to be connected to ignition switch side of the ballast
   resistor regardless of the voltage read at the (+) terminal..."

The only voltage check they give is to be sure that the (+) side of the
coil is above 6V.  There is no limit specified at the top end. If the
voltage is less than 6V, they say to bypass the resistor.

From all of the above, I would hazard a guess that you could run the
module either way, with or without the resistor wire.

>I hope if'when the Pertronix fails your close to a dealer. 'Cause if you
have
>to run the points set I hope you'll carry with you just in case, the full
12V
>will fry them pretty quickly.

>You can get HEI parts most _anywhere_.  Long live the HEI.

>Bob Handren

Yeah, but you still have to walk three miles to the nearest parts store
and hope that they're open, and have a HEI module. :-)

I've heard several stories of HEI modules quiting on people too.  Either
way,
it wouldnt hurt to keep a spare Pertronix's module or an HEI in the
glovebox.

- -Jeff
jeff.easton@abbott.com

1970 442 4-Speed

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Aug 1997 20:45:46 -0500
From: katana72@juno.com (Rob T)
Subject: Re: Julian Show

Having lived in San Diego for a while (during my Navy career) , I've
spent a few different weekends on trips to Julian. It IS an extremely
nice area. Wish I could join you guys, but MN is a little far for a
weekend trip!!!


Katana72          "It's NOT yourDaddy's Oldsmobile !!!!!    Hastings, MN

On Wed, 27 Aug 1997 21:48:33 -0700 James Thingwold <jht@exo.com> writes:
>Just what I need, something to haul more cars home with :-)
>
>As for the Julian show - you can take the 5 south, all the way down to
>Oceanside, then take the 78 east.  That snakes south for a short ways,
>then
>Y's off at Ramona where you continue east.  Continue east past the Y
>with
>the 79 and after an undetermined distance you'll reach Julian (if
>memory
>serves its about 10-15 miles but don't hold me to it). Nice scenery!
>The
>show will be held from 10:00 am - 2:00 pm in the parking lot of the
>Valley
>Independant Bank at Main & B streets.  Looks like when you come into
>town
>on the 78, at the intersection with Main Street, you hang a right.
>
>Look forward to having you - right now I'm just planning on taking the
>Delta - she loooooves those long freeway hauls.
>
>Hope to see you there.  Erick - hope your heart transplant goes/has
>gone
>smoothly & you can make it as well.
>
>
>Lisa Madsen
>Anaheim, CA
>
>'66 Toronado
>'67 Delta 88 Custom
>'69 Toronado (aka Toro II)
>'72 Vista Cruiser
>
>Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com
>
>My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Aug 1997 15:01:40 -0400
From: WALKERJIM@webtv.net (Jim Walker)
Subject: Subject: FUNNY: The Bird

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Aug 1997 23:48:37 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale

At 10:06 AM 8/30/97 -0300, you wrote:
Jim

        Here are the answers to your questions:

>> hi jim some questions about the  parts listed below
>
>
>
>> 69 Cutlass/442 Doors (mint pair)  $300.00 pr / $160.00 ea
>> Are these for a 2 door and if so are they power window doors?
**** Yes these are for a two door and Don't have power windows
>
>> 69 Cutlass/442 Front Bumper (good cond) $100.00
>> Just what does good mean, is it straight/no dings?  If so how is the
>> chrome?
****  Good means it's suitable for chroming. This is one that has been on a
tow sling also. There is a fella on this list that will show chrome it for
around $190.00. Mint ones all done at Nationals were $350-400.00
>
>> 69 LH Fender (no rust holes)  $350.00
>> Does it have any dents or bondo?
****  It has a couple very small dings but no bondo filling holes. Would be
willing to go $300 on it.
>
>> 69 Rear Bumper (V05 rub strip) one small ding  $185.00
>
>Is this a 442 bumper ie with cutouts?
**** This is Not a cutout bumper. The V05 is the one with the rubber rub
strip in it. They are kind of rare.

So there you go. I've tried to be as honest about these as possible. We do
keep rougher parts now due to the difficulty getting anything sometimes.
Thanks for your inquiry.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts
Virginia Beach VA
(757) 474-0869
>
>I'm interested in these parts depending on their condition.
>
>Jim
>
>

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª827
********************************
