
oldsmobile-digest      Saturday, October 4 1997      Volume 01 : Number 885



Re: Junkyard '78 Delta Royale
Re: ? 4 door 442?
Re: Getting off of this list
Best paint for cast grey SS wheels (76)?
Re: Junkyard '78 Delta Royale
Seat Belt Torx Head Bolts -- Size?
Re: Best paint for cast grey SS wheels (76)?
Re: Blinker speed
Re: Console Question
Re: Getting off of this list
Re: Hot Starting Problems
trunk lid
Re: Fall Carlise
Re: trunk lid
Re: W Machine Pole
Re: Getting off of this list
Re: Getting off of this list
Re: Build sheet replacement
Re: convertible top
Re: trunk lid
Need stock valve covers for 71' 455
engine belt tension?
Paint for accessory brackets?
Re "Terrifying Toronado" 
WHEELS: 50 Olds
looking for 1, SS I wheel
Re: Mr Personality
Re: W Machines
Shift indicator question
Re: W Machine Pole
unsubscribe
Re: 330 intake
Re: Hot Starting Problems
Re: Paint for accessory brackets?
Re: Carb jet size; w-31 ??
Re: 330 intake
Olds vs. Kaiser-power
Re: Fall Carlise
Re: Hot Starting Problems
Re: 330 intake
FS; 68 cutlass,442 frt. bumper 
Re: Getting off of this list
FI
Re: Suspension Questions
Re: Paint for accessory brackets?
Re: WHEELS: 50 Olds
ROAD TRIP
Wipers, etc. (was Re: Build sheet replacement)
Floor Braces
Dipstick Tube Installation
Re: Suspension Questions
Re: Hot Starting Problems
Re: Seat Belt Torx Head Bolts -- Size?
Re: Getting off of this list
Hot Starting Problems
Ga and G heads I got
Re: Seat Belt Torx Head Bolts -- Size?
Re: Console Question
394 olds blower drive
C smog heads
Re: Hot Starting Problems
Re: Console Question
Carlisle
Re: Fall Carlise
rear view
Re: Dipstick Tube Installation
Re: W Machine Pole
Re: Web of Wheels
Re: Shift indicator question
Re: Muscle Car Review
1972 Cutlass Supreme
Re: Best paint for cast grey SS wheels (76)?
Re: 1972 Cutlass Supreme
3 Motors & Racin'...

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 02:35:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Subject: Re: Junkyard '78 Delta Royale

Hi Greg,

> Forgot to mention... one odd thing about this car. The interior was still 
> extremely nice. Powder Blue velour seats and door panels, in excellent 
> shape, and most remarkably, the headliner and sunvisors -- the infamous 
> fuzzy cloth that separates from the foam backing -- were absolutely mint, 
> with no separation at all. Wonder if color had something to do with it? 

I've noticed that cars with a vinyl roof, and especially those that have
been garaged all their life, tend to have headliners in excellent shape.
BTW, light blue plastics seem to be the least likely to retain their
colour.  A friend's '77 Custom Cruiser, despite being garaged for the
first 14 years, still had massive non-uniform discolouration of nearly all
the interior plastics; they were recently painted to mask the  
whitish-yellowish sections and restore uniformity.  What condition were
the A and B pillar mouldings in?   Last week, I spotted a '79 Buick
LeSabre at a motel just east of St. Louis with perfect light blue interior
plastics!  It has probably stayed well away from UV rays.

Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 01:33:02 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: ? 4 door 442?

Joe Artwell wrote:
> 
> I bought a book called American Muscle Cars and in the section on Olds
> it says that because the 442 was an F-85 option there were 7, 4-door
> 442's built in 1964. Is this correct? I never heard of this before.

The 442 came as an order-in option package in 64.  Theoretically, the
package could be orderred on anything, including station wagons.  I've
heard it rumored that some ~non~ 2 doors were orderred that way, but
never any verification.  After 64, (as I recall) it became available
only on the 2 door a-body platform...

- -- 
    
             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
             Box 524               | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Sidney, Montana 59270 | http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
	     "TRBO LVR" (Maybe???:)| '83 Turbo Regal
               	     Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 01:40:12 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Getting off of this list

Terry & Tammy wrote:
> 
> Is this not an OLDS list? then why are we wasting time talking about a
> guy that got off the list? He can't see it. Is it to amuse ourselves?
> 

Well, actually...  Now that you mention it, ~yes~  :)  And, ironically,
we're all keeping it remarkably Olds-related -- Something impressive for
the "reply-of-ruffled-feathers" type threads.  
    
             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
             Box 524               | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Sidney, Montana 59270 | http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
	     "TRBO LVR" (Maybe???:)| '83 Turbo Regal
               	     Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 01:28:28 -0700
From: "Marvin Friesen" <gowest@direct.ca>
Subject: Best paint for cast grey SS wheels (76)?

What is the best paint match for my 1976 cast grey SS wheels? It's time to
redo them. 

Marvin Friesen
Vancouver, BC  

1976 Cutlass S	One Owner
1976 Cutlass S 	2nd Owner
1983 Delta 88 	One owner

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 08:11:37 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Junkyard '78 Delta Royale

On Sat, 4 Oct 1997, Kevin Wong wrote:
> BTW, light blue plastics seem to be the least likely to retain their
> colour.  A friend's '77 Custom Cruiser, despite being garaged for the
> first 14 years, still had massive non-uniform discolouration of nearly all
> the interior plastics; they were recently painted to mask the  
> whitish-yellowish sections and restore uniformity.  What condition were
> the A and B pillar mouldings in?   Last week, I spotted a '79 Buick
> LeSabre at a motel just east of St. Louis with perfect light blue interior
> plastics!  It has probably stayed well away from UV rays.

The A-piller moldings were fine for color. The driver's side had a crack 
near the screw hole as most of these do, it seems. B-pillar moldings were 
good too for the most part, certainly better than mine. Color held up well.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 08:13:50 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Seat Belt Torx Head Bolts -- Size?

Does anyone know offhand what size Torx socket (is that the right term? 
Driver maybe?) I need to remove the seat belt attaching bolts on the '78 
Delta? I looked at one store and the biggest they carried was a T-50. Not 
sure if it is big enough.

TIA...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 08:20:06 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Best paint for cast grey SS wheels (76)?

On Sat, 4 Oct 1997, Marvin Friesen wrote:

> What is the best paint match for my 1976 cast grey SS wheels? It's time to
> redo them. 

I'd be interested in this too because I need to do this on the Cutlass
this winter. I've heard that the cast gray/spray gray detail paint from
Eastwood is one choice. I remember Jim Chermack telling me that an actual
body paint from an '85 88 or 98 came in a very close match too, and it was
glossy of course, so you wouldn't need to clear-coat them. If anyone can
help, let us both know... 

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 07:32:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: Gail Adams <gadams@remc7.k12.mi.us>
Subject: Re: Blinker speed

I think people are hitting it right.  If no burned out bulbs, get a heavy 
duty flasher.  Go to a decent auto parts store and they'll know what you 
want.  Often people who pull trailers (w/ extra lights) need to do this.
Tom Adams

On Wed, 1 Oct 1997, Adcock, Jason K. wrote:

> All right, don't laugh.  I have a dumb suggestion here.  Is your flasher a
> "Heavy Duty" flasher?  I saw them at Wal-Mart and didn't buy it when I
> replaced mine, but maybe if the system doesn't have much resistence...then
> maybe the Heavy Duty flasher would put out too much power and would blink
> at a faster rate than a less powerful flasher would have.
> 
> Can anybody with actual EE experience back me up here?  I hope this might
> lead to something that will help...:-)
> 
> Tim Rudolph wrote:
> > 
> > Just a quick question,
> >   My 69 442's turn signals blink pretty quickly..  How might I slow 'em
> > down to 'standard' speed?  Any ideas?  The hazards blink at the proper
> > speed, just not the turn signals.. Thanks.
> 
> -- 
> Jason K. Adcock
> jadcock@vt.edu
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 08:36:28 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Console Question

CarrDuff@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 97-10-03 19:15:30 EDT, you write:
> 
>  From:  iamoz@ime.net (Al Barlow)
> 
>  I would like to take out the woodgrain insert from the automatic console on
>  my 1971 442 convertible. To do this I need to remove the wooden ball on top
>  of the shifting linkage. Can anyone tell me how to remove this shifter ball
>  (don't want to break it) as I want to replace the insert, it has holes in
>  it, with a new one. Any help would be appreciated. >>
> 
>  Al,
> 
>    It sounds like the strait shifter your working with.  I believe the shift
> ball just unscrews off the top.  However it is the "T" piece that must come
> off in order to remove the plate.  Once you get the shift ball off there will
> be a pin inserted through the "T" part. Drive this pin out and the "T" part
> will slide off.

NO, NO, NO!
You DO NOT have to take the "T" part off!
Simply remove the shift ball, lift up the bezel and rotate it 90 degrees
and it will clear easily.

- -- 
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 08:44:00 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Getting off of this list

Dave Ward wrote:
>
> Ignorant?  Us?  Never....
> 
> You think your little VW's are so great?  Look at it *this* way...when I
> run a stop sign with 5000lbs of steel, and crank the side of your tuna
> can, they'll have to bury your body in a Sucrets box...
> 
> Very Worthless!!!
> 
> So cry me a river...those FUKENGRUVEN t-shirts drive me nuts.  I'd
> rather have one with a Rocket emblem, but it would have to say
> FUKENMOOVIN' then...
> 
> S.D.W.

Ha! I got one that says FARFROMLUZIN with a #43 race car on it. Wonder
if he was driving an Olds? BTW- That gives me an !idea!. I can make
T-shirts in my Graphic Design class. I was thinking about one with an
Olds (73) on it that says FUKENKRUZIN. Good idea?

- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 08:50:23 -0700
From: "David, Terri and Rob" <hoagie@emeraldis.com>
Subject: Re: Hot Starting Problems

Terry & Tammy wrote:
> 
> Greg I have had the same problem with my truck..it acted the very same
> way. I though it was the battery but I knew that the starter was on it
> last legs, I replaced the starter and the battery cables with #0 gauge
> wire, now those are really big wires and I have not had any problems
> since. Try cleaning the connection with the ground to the block if that
> doesn't do it try running an extra wire from the battery to the FRAME,
> sometimes this will help I'm not sure why but I think that the ground
> from the engine to the frame goes bad . this sometimes will help with
> the gauges readings, especially if the reading will change if you turn
> on the fan or something like that. Also don't over look the obvious the
> new starter could be bad....good luck
> 
> Terry Teague
> 68 Delta Customhey terry a couple of ideas for you to bounce around...Summit Racing in 
Akron,Ohio sell a high torque GM starter part#SUM-G1665 
1-800-230-3030 they mail order and the shipping is free.....they also 
have a remote solenoid like ford uses on threir fenders to get away from 
the heat from the exhaust that plagues the GM designed starters the only 
problem is...its for a chevy mill...you will have to change the nose to 
make it accomidate a olds motor....on diesel pick up trucks they use an 
extremely large battery cable that you might try in order to get the 
maximum current to your starter...good luck..Hoagie

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 09:00:06 -0400
From: dave <dave70ss@ici.net>
Subject: trunk lid

I have a 71 c/s convertible
Will a 70 hardtop trunk lid fit on my car?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 08:55:27 -0700
From: "David, Terri and Rob" <hoagie@emeraldis.com>
Subject: Re: Fall Carlise

CarrDuff@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Well I just got back from fall Carlise.  My feet are killing me, man that
> place is big.
> 
> I went today (friday 10/03/97) to avoid the huge crowds, which I pretty much
> did.
> I left my house @ 5:00am and arrived just when the gates opended @ 7:00.
> 
> I found about 5 vendors for Olds, including Fusick.  Not a lot considering
> they advertise 8100 + venders.  Here is what I saw,  I'll try to remember
> prices if I can,
> 
> Parts-----
> 70-72 front fender braces - 55.00
>          Maybe someone can help me out here, I have never seen a complete set
> of
>          these on a car before.  I did see one on the left side of a 70 442 I
> worked on.
>          The seller said they were used on 70-72 big block cars.  Anyone know
> if these
>          are correct and should be on all 442''s ??????
> 71 W30 Intake (the seller had it marked 70 W30) dirty - no price marked
> 69 - 72 W35 spoiler in primer good shape - no price marked
> 70 -72 OIA air cleaner, the entire set, bottom lid and top - good cond. - 750
> lots of 70-72 sport wheels - cheapest 35, up to 150
> lots of 70-72 conv. trunk lids - all around 240
> Lots of small parts, tail light lenses, side markers Etc.
> The usual chrome platers with Olds bumpers for sale.
> 
> Cars ----- (not a whole lot here either)
> 70 Rally 350 - pretty good shape - around 9500
> 72 442 hrdtp 350 OIA white with green stripes/interior - around 11k
> 71 SX hrdtp silver blk interior - around 9k
> 70 C/S conv. resale red/black top/interior needed total restoration - 3500
> 69 442 hrdtp brown $ ???
> 69 442 Conv. blue white top - outside fence $ ???
> 70 C/S hrdtp also resale red rair condition needed restoration $ ???
> 65 C/S hrdtp yellow extremely pretty car $ ???
> 79 442 W30 brown $ ???
> 15th aniv. H/O black nice condition around 5k
> not much else.
> 
>    Oldsmobile is definetly the minority at Carlise.  Would be in better shape
> if I liked ch*/y, must*/?? no..a. Etc...............Naaaaaa, much more fun
> with Olds.
> 
>  Steve Dietrich
>    S/E PA
>      71 442 W30 Conv. >>Steve...now what fun would it be if EVERYONE had 1....I would much 
rather be a minority than just another chevy in the crowd....its nice to 
go to a car show and have the only viking blue W-30 drop top there...I 
guess its lonely at the top...Hoagie

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 09:02:07 -0700
From: "David, Terri and Rob" <hoagie@emeraldis.com>
Subject: Re: trunk lid

dave wrote:
> 
> I have a 71 c/s convertible
> Will a 70 hardtop trunk lid fit on my car?yes..if its off a cutlass supreme body style....not the F-85..which is 
the 442 hardtop style...all convertibles are basically the supreme body 
style....Hoagie

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 09:17:17 -0400 (EDT)
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: Re: W Machine Pole

I think that the W45 was the 1970 Rallye 350.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 09:48:46 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: Getting off of this list

BYE dave!  This is an OLDSMOBILE list! (in case you missed that somewhere 
along the way.)  

Of course we all realize the 1968 - 1972 Olds "A" bodies don't have the "fine 
and elegant body lines" that your vw "super slug" has.  And that "roomy" and 
"plush" interior.  I could go on and on....

Your right! I should have bought a "herby", much better investment too.  I 
could always make a "vw, W-30 clone" by adding fender emblems right?

There, how's that for ignorant?  Hope you find peace dave, good luck and 
happy "vw"-ing!

RC Hellebuyck
1971 Oldsmobile 4-4-2 covt. 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 09:51:34 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: Getting off of this list

>You think your little VW's are so great?  Look at it *this* way...when I
>run a stop sign with 5000lbs of steel, and crank the side of your tuna
>can, they'll have to bury your body in a Sucrets box...>

LOL!  Wow, I can picture that!

RC Hellebuyck :)  

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 09:41:35 -0400 (EDT)
From: senko@reston.ans.net (Andrew A. Senko)
Subject: Re: Build sheet replacement

> but we got it. Only lost a bit of blood with one cut.  While I was at it,
> got a spare wiper and light switch, all of the screws, clips, bulbs and
> sockets I could find, rear speaker, you name it. Sure isn't much left now! 
> 
> Stay tuned for the saga of how long it takes us to install of this stuff! 
> 
> Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada


Greg,

Are you saying in some indirect way that replacing your wiper blades was
such a saga that you've resorted to picking wiper assemblies from boneyards
instead?  ;-)
  
- -- 
Drew
                    _
                    |\            Convertibles                     
     .__====-_._____|_\______         Rule!                        Drew Senko
     [   ___  |-     |  ___  \                           senko@reston.ans.net
     =\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)               http://members.aol.com/drewinva
_________\_/____________\_/__________________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 10:10:02 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: convertible top

>This behavior sounds an awful lot like a circuit breaker popping;
>20 seconds is roughly the time it takes to reset itself. Sounds like
>your pump motor is overloading for some reason -- I assume if you
>check, you'll find that that circuit is protected by a breaker instead
>of a fuse, and the breaker is cutting out on you.>


Suggestions on what to check?  The top didn't do this at all for the first 
month-and-a-half I owned it.  I already checked fluid level, (ok).  I don't 
notice it binding anywhere either.

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 09:58:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: trunk lid

 it has to be off another conv. or a 4 door , have done this many times.  i
deal in parts for 68-72.  have done this since 1981.  hope this helps  ,
  steven, w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 10:32:06 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Need stock valve covers for 71' 455

Looking for "stock or original" valve covers for my 1971 4-4-2, 455 
engine.  I'm told both should have a "dent or notch" to accommodate the 
A/C and power brake booster.  I want the correct ones!  

I also have chrome valve covers for the above I will trade or sell once 
I find replacements.  They are both in great condition!  

Please respond privately to:    mrhell@sprynet.com

Thanks,

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 10:39:07 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: engine belt tension?

Just put a new set of GM belts on my 71 4-4-2.  How do you gauge the 
correct tension? (there tight believe me).  I remember in high school 
auto shop, we had a belt tension gauge.  It was box-shaped and had a 
handle on it, with a place to insert the belt.  This was suppose to 
register tension.

What the cheapest, best way to judge belt tension?   Also, where do you 
"pry" to tighten-up the power steering belt?  I used a small block of 
wood and pried on the P/S fluid tank.  This works, but it makes me 
nervous!!!

Thanks in advance!

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 10:42:54 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Paint for accessory brackets?

Just wondering what you guys, (and Lisa), use to paint accessory 
brackets like the alt., A/C etc.?  (black)

Do you have to use hi-temp. paint, or will "satin Rust-o-leum" hold-up?

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 10:34:21 -0400 (EDT)
From: BigEJ@aol.com
Subject: Re "Terrifying Toronado" 

I have a Quicksilver book "Oldsmobile the Performance years" from Motorbooks
Int. ISBN #0-940346  that has two pages of pictures and a little information
about this car.

The heading under the first picture says "John Smyser built this
one-of-a-kind twin engined Toronado exhibition car, with sponsorship from
Grant Industries> After buolding their own Twin-Toro, the MacCoon brothers
were believers in double=trouble!  Engine displacement is 850 cubic-inches
with horsepower rated at 2400 on fuel.  Car ran 152 mph in quarter mile first
time out with a broken rear spider gear.

The article  claims tht the engine mounts on a square tubing sib-chassis and
that the front transmission is an Art Carr automatic and that the rear is
direct witha schiefer dual-disc clutch. 

It also points out that much of the interior is stock, esp the "heavy" seat.

This must have been quite a handfull!!

Hope this helps!

Elephant Engine Ernie
67 442
50  88

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 10:34:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: BigEJ@aol.com
Subject: WHEELS: 50 Olds

Hope someone on this list has some advice here.  My 50 is presently running
radials on the original rims.  A combination much better than bias plys on
those rims!  Anyone who has driven a 50s car with bias ply tires will agree,
I'm sure!!

However I'm not happy with this combination because the wheels flex and they
are not designed for tubeless tires.  Here's the question; Does any one know
what late model 15" steel wheels will will fit this car so I can run radials
and the original full wheel discs??   I would like to keep the car as close
to original as possible, but it's a driver more than a show car.

Thanks!

Elephant Engine Ernie

67 442
50  88

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 10:49:31 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: looking for 1, SS I wheel

Still looking for one, SS I wheel in EC.  I have one, SS II wheel, 
(painted saturn gold), to trade or to sell. (no tire)

The above is for my spare.  I don't believe my SS II has ever been 
driven on since it was painted.

This is yet another knit-pick detail on my "finished list"!  (the list 
of things I want to do before I declare my car done)

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 11:07:45 -0400 (EDT)
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Mr Personality

tony, i have jm-20-22 cam in my 455, have orig.w30 springs, (new when
installed), running torker intake,  "C" heads (big valves),  motor built in
82,  i dont drive like granny if you know what i mean!,   motor is strong and
is in 71 conv. (lots of vaccum options), run 3;73 posi,  and yes i did get
aggrivated with mr. personality , more than once.  have a L-74 motor i tried
with his jm-18-20 cam , tried it in two diff. motors , never did run right!
     called him up and he tells me i need to buy more parts to make it run .
funny ...he never told me that when i asked about the charracteristics of the
cam.    oh well, you interested in 455`s not 350`s,  the jm-20-22 has worked
well for me.  hope this helps.  p.s. any one know of a good cam for a rallye
350?  please reply.  steven.  w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 11:12:41 -0400 (EDT)
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: W Machines

i have printed that ad (im a printer by trade),and loved that car!  the girl
was ok.  steven. w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 12:26:24 -0300
From: "Robert J. Lavey" <rjlavey@rmci.net>
Subject: Shift indicator question

Hi Gang,

I am converting my bench seat '68 442 to buckets with a console/shifter.
Common sense tells me that I will need to change the speedo to one without a
shift indicator.  In looking through "Oldsmobile 4-4-2 & W-Machine
Restoration Guide" (T. Patrick Sullivan, Motorbooks International, 1992), I
see a '68 with a floor shifter AND the shift indicator in the speedo (page 74).

Can somebody out there with a '68 and floor shift automatic tell me how
their car is set up?

Thanks,
Bob
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Robert J. Lavey                         email: rjlavey@rmci.net
 13243 W. Dahlia Dr.                     Home:  (208) 939-5418
 Boise, ID  83713-1302                   Fax:   (208) 939-5452
- -----------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 11:29:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: Hiflyr442@aol.com
Subject: Re: W Machine Pole

W-45 is the code for a 72 H/O, if we're counting those, add two (1 sunroof
coupe, 1 convertible)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 11:32:41 -0400 (EDT)
From: Adam <awerthmi@freenet.npiec.on.ca>
Subject: unsubscribe

unsubscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 11:49:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: 330 intake

kevin is it?, well im only skip and a hollar away from you. im in cushing,
okla. ever here of it?  60 mi west of you. any how ,i run salvage yards all
the time and thats news to me.     i do know there cracking down on salvage
yards and how they operate. to open a new yard you must have an 8 ft. high
solid fence around it, plus you have to ' have titles on every car on the
lot. all cars must have exhaust sys. and gas tank removed before it is
crushed. this was suppose to help stop the chop shops a few years back,
instead it ran a lot of mom and pop salvages out of business. i had friends
who were forced to crush there entire yards. some of these yards had cars
dateing back to early 1900`s, it was sicking to think how many cars were
lost, many were rebuildable!  the good news is the yard owners banded
together and won. new yards still have the same rules, but the old yards have
what is called a grandfather claus. their exempt.     buy the way i have some
330 eng.parts from a 64 442 if interested.  steven. w30442cs@aol.com  p.h. #
 (918)-225-3193           

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 10:47:31 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Hot Starting Problems

Greg, my Cutlass was doing the same thing a couple of weeks ago. It wouldn't
even click when I hit the starter. The headlights came on at full power
though.
When my courtesy lights seemed to be involved in the act, (glowed dimly when
door closed), I tried taking out one bulb at a time. It turned out that the
front console light was the main offender. As soon as I removed this bulb,
the engine cranked and fired up. Even after this however, the rear console
light was glowing dimly when it should have been out (door closed). After
removing the rear bulb, the battery resumed cranking at full power.
Now all I have to do is find out where the short is occuring so I can get my
courtesy lights back.
BTW, the problem can be reproduced exactly by putting the bulbs back in.
Hope this helps.

Mick Gillespie, Columbus, Indiana
69 Cutlass S convertible
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm
- -----Original Message-----
From: Greg Kalkhoff <gkalkhof@execpc.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, October 03, 1997 9:12 PM
Subject: Hot Starting Problems


>Greetings from the Dark Side!
>
>For the second time in as many days, the Winter Beater (67 Toro) left me
sitting!!! I'm
>NOT really likin' that!  ):
>
<snip>
>Sparky
>--
>Greg Kalkhoff                                        See the Sparkmobile
>Toronado FAQ Administrator
http://www.442.com/kalkhoff.html
>http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/torofaqs.htm
>AKA "Sparky"
>
>
>
>
>--
>Greg Kalkhoff                                        See the Sparkmobile
>Toronado FAQ Administrator
http://www.442.com/kalkhoff.html
>http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/torofaqs.htm
>AKA "Sparky"
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 08:54:39 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Paint for accessory brackets?

I'm a Rustoleum user.  We did use a hi temp paint on our Ch*vy truck & it
seems to be holding up nicely though.


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser 

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 12:08:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Carb jet size; w-31 ??

does anyone know jet size of 70 w-31 carb.  did L-74 motors use same ?
 steven. w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 09:09:43 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: 330 intake

Steve - would you happen to have any other parts off that '64 442?  I need
a few minor interior parts for my '64.


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser 

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 09:05:44 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Olds vs. Kaiser-power

I was behind a *nice* old VW bus the other day with a great bumper sticker
- - "0-60 in 11 minutes"  - I thought that might work well on the VC (for
laughs).


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser 

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 09:03:35 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Fall Carlise

 Parts-----
>> 70-72 front fender braces - 55.00
>>          Maybe someone can help me out here, I have never seen a
complete set
>> of
>>          these on a car before.  I did see one on the left side of a 70
442 I
>> worked on.
>>          The seller said they were used on 70-72 big block cars.  Anyone
know
>> if these
>>          are correct and should be on all 442''s ??????
I'd be interested also to know if this is true - I have the parts wagon
that carried a 455 that came with heavy duty everything (boxed rear control
arms - 12 bolt, etc.) that has all its original bumper bracketing.

P.S.  I've still got the nice '72 front bumper off it too for sale still......


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser 

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 09:10:35 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Hot Starting Problems

Aw shucks, it was more fun to think of these cars as simply being
posessed.....


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser 

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 12:32:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: 330 intake

let me know what parts and ill check it out.  car is 64 442,   steven.
w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 12:51:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: FS; 68 cutlass,442 frt. bumper 

to anyone on the list i have a real nice front bumper for sale or maybe even
trade.  it is real straight , if interested let me know.  steven.
w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Sep 1997 13:23:25 -0500
From: "Tracey Cleeton" <tcleeton@mcmsys.com>
Subject: Re: Getting off of this list

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_01BCB935.B9DE7360
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

AMEN!!
 ----
From: Terry & Tammy <dawgs@conninc.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Date: Friday, October 03, 1997 8:50 PM
Subject: Re: Getting off of this list

Is this not and OLDS list? then why are we wasting time talking about a
guy that got off the list? He can't see it. Is it to amuse ourselves?

Terry Teague
68 Delta Custom


- ------=_NextPart_000_01BCB935.B9DE7360
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML 3.2//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"Trident 4.71.0544.0"' name=3DGENERATOR>

</HEAD>
<BODY><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>
<P><FONT size=3D+0>AMEN!!</FONT></P>
 ----<BR>
<B>From: </B>Terry &amp; Tammy &lt;dawgs@conninc.com&gt;<BR>
<B>To: </B>oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca<BR>
<B>Date: </B>Friday, October 03, 1997 8:50 PM<BR>
<B>Subject: </B>Re: Getting off of this list<BR>
<BR>
<HTML><BODY><FONT size=3D2>Is this not and OLDS list? then why are we =
wasting time=20
talking about a<BR>
guy that got off the list? He can't see it. Is it to amuse =
ourselves?<BR>
<BR>
Terry Teague<BR>
68 Delta Custom<BR>
</FONT></FONT>
</BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_01BCB935.B9DE7360--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 12:12:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jack Karamanos <jalkara@whidbey.net>
Subject: FI

here is an address for a co. that makes port injection(on a regular
manifold) that can be batch type or sequential, point distributer or
electronic distributor, your manifold or they will buy one for you, 24 to
96 lb injectors, how many horses do you want, closed or open loop, or
however you would like it configured, dedicated chip or laptop configured.


Force F.I.
625 Ameria Avenue
Miami Fla  33134
305 443 4000

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 15:18:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: Vin442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Suspension Questions

first thing you have to do is decide how much money you want to spend, how
the car is to going to be driven, and how stiff of a ride you can deal with.
the standard 442 suspension parts are good for all around driving, a nice
compromise for cruising, dragging and cornering. you can go to heavier sway
bar diameters ft and rear, stiffer springs and a polyurethane bushing setup,
but be forewarned of a sometimes too bumpy and noisy ride. poly bushings have
a tendency to creak and sound like the frame is cracking!!!!! so be careful
and decide what you really want, because doing it twice really sucks!!!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 16:31:48 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Paint for accessory brackets?

On Sat, 4 Oct 1997 mrhell@m1.sprynet.com wrote:
> Just wondering what you guys, (and Lisa), use to paint accessory 
> brackets like the alt., A/C etc.?  (black)
> 
> Do you have to use hi-temp. paint, or will "satin Rust-o-leum" hold-up?

RC, you can use whatever you want for those brackets, doesn't have to be 
hi-temp paint. I've used Krylon, Tremclad, Rustoleum, Plasti-Kote, etc.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 16:34:03 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: WHEELS: 50 Olds

On Sat, 4 Oct 1997 BigEJ@aol.com wrote:
> However I'm not happy with this combination because the wheels flex and they
> are not designed for tubeless tires.  Here's the question; Does any one know
> what late model 15" steel wheels will will fit this car so I can run radials
> and the original full wheel discs??   I would like to keep the car as close
> to original as possible, but it's a driver more than a show car.

Good question! The answer would make good FAQ material too. I only wish I
knew! I've seen these cars with later wheels so I know it's certainly
possible. In fact, I think one was in the parade in Lansing in August. 
Made the car look pretty good too, because of the wider width. Hope 
someone can adivse...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 19:41:44 +0000
From: clarence wirtz <cw63nova@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: ROAD TRIP

Hello every one.  Just got back from a long road trip in the OLDS.  

We left San Antonio Wedsneday and drove down I-10 to Ocean Springs Ms.
(parents house) and stayed the night.  Then drove from there east on I-10 to
Mobile AL.,
Then took I-65 north to Nashville, TN.  Then took I-24 to Fort Cambell, KY.
Daughter in Army their. Stayed the night.  Then Friday morning left there
went down HWY 79 , beautiful drive thru hills and small towns to hwy 22 then
went south on 22 to I-40.  Took I-40 to Little Rock AR.  Then took I-30 to
Dallas,Tx.
Followed by I-35 south back home.  I know this may sound dull, but my point
is the OLDS is still a great car to make road trips in, @25.7mpg It was a
low cost trip also. Not a single problem on the 23 or 2400 mile trip.

OLDS MAKE GREAT ROAD CARS ALSO.  Enjoyable trip.


Clarence
'86 OLDS Cutlass 4DR 307        

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 16:47:55 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Wipers, etc. (was Re: Build sheet replacement)

On Sat, 4 Oct 1997, Andrew A. Senko wrote:
> Are you saying in some indirect way that replacing your wiper blades was
> such a saga that you've resorted to picking wiper assemblies from boneyards
> instead?  ;-)

Well, Drew, in fact I was looking for a few silver-colored blades while I 
was there, but I got sidetracked... ;-)

Actually, what I was trying to say was that I got the wiper *switch*,
along with the light switch, as a just-in-case kind of thing. I guess I
should have got the motor too while I was at it. Actually, I could have
got most of the car I think. The guy looked in my trunk on the way out,
which was absolutely jammed with power windows and locks, wiring
harnesses, plus assorted junk, basically everything I could remember to
grab, and said "How about $100?" Man, I jumped at that! I just wish I had
thought to toss in a few more pieces. I might go back one more time... 

BTW, thanks to the gang that helped me with my Really Stupid Wiper 
Question. I finally got the thing off the other day. Still wasn't easy, 
but it is now off. I can see when it rains now too!

Also BTW, the heater core seems to have repaired itself. How, I dunno. 
But there are no foggy windows any more. This happened on the way home 
from the parts store with the new core on the seat next to me. Of course! 
Regardless, I think I'll replace it anyway. I just am a little suspicious 
of it right now.

Oh, one more BTW: someone here the other day was complaining about a bad
2-3 shift. The Delta started doing that on Wednesday too, same day the
heater leaked. Would stay in first gear until about 35 mph, then in second
until about 50-55. Felt like it had a shift kit in it! I almost thought it
was related to the heater problem for a while. But I found a little length
of vac hose from the modulator to the carb that had a tear in it, and
replacing that has restored it to it's smooth ol' self... :)

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Oct 1997 22:39:32 -0500
From: Lloyd Ferguson <cutlass69@usa.net>
Subject: Floor Braces

I have noticed that the last 8 inches or so of passenger's side center
floor brace on my '69 Cutlass convertible has rotted away (and the floor
with it).

 I have seen both full and partial braces in the catalogs but can anyone
advise what is involved in replacing the brace and the pan?

Lloyd Ferguson
cutlass69@usa.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Oct 1997 22:20:31 -0500
From: Lloyd Ferguson <cutlass69@usa.net>
Subject: Dipstick Tube Installation

My car, a '69 Cutlass 350 came without a dipstick or tube.  I have ordered
one and it is sitting on my desk.  I am wondering if there are any tricks
or things to watch out for when installing this?

Do I have to loosen the oil pan and if so will I have to remove it
completely to replace the gasket?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Lloyd Ferguson
cutlass69@usa.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Oct 1997 22:33:54 -0500
From: Lloyd Ferguson <cutlass69@usa.net>
Subject: Re: Suspension Questions

>....I have priced new springs from
>Year One...150 a pair is a lil too pricey for me...I went to the
>National Parts Depot in Charlotte and got them for $59..a much better
>price...and no sacrifice in quality...the springs are sport style...more
>of a progreesive rate which help the handling and left the ride still
>almost as good as factory...good luck....Hoagie

I have looked in my Chevelle catalog from National Parts Depot and I agree
the prices are very good however they do not seem to list Oldsmobile parts.
Does anyone know if the suspension parts (front and rear bushings, springs,
etc) are interchangeable between similar year A body cars?




Lloyd Ferguson
cutlass69@usa.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 14:15:13 -0600 (CST)
From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Subject: Re: Hot Starting Problems

All of my Dad's old Toro's did this too, along with some of the other 
old's we have had.  Because it's prone to Toro's moire, I think it's a 
heat problem, but if that isn't the case, one thing to try is to back the 
timing back a bit and see what happens.  A lot of time advanced-timing 
motors don't want to start when hot.

On Fri, 3 Oct 1997, Greg Kalkhoff wrote: > Greetings from the Dark Side!
> The car starts excellent when cold. I drove 3 miles to the gas station, turned it off,
> filled it up, and tried to start it. It went, "Errrr Err Er....CLICK CLICK CLICK!" There
> I sat, with a full tank of gas and can't go anywhere!  ):
> 
> If the car sits for a long while (cools off significanlty), it starts right up. Today, I
> didn't have time to wait, plus it was 87 degrees here today, so I called my buddy to jump
> me. With the jump, it fired right up! When I got home, I shut if off and tried to start
> it right away....click click click.....NOTHING!
> the battery?). I assume it's charging the battery, because I drove home last night with
> the lights on and it fired right up this morning. And, the charger shows full charge.
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 14:41:45 -0600 (MDT)
From: Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Subject: Re: Seat Belt Torx Head Bolts -- Size?

most seatbelts are t-50    if you can get a set of impact torx  I've
broke a few normal ones on some stubborn bolts 

On Sat, 4 Oct 1997, Greg Beaulieu wrote:

> 
> Does anyone know offhand what size Torx socket (is that the right term? 
> Driver maybe?) I need to remove the seat belt attaching bolts on the '78 
> Delta? I looked at one store and the biggest they carried was a T-50. Not 
> sure if it is big enough.
> 
> TIA...
> 
> Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 14:45:15 -0600 (MDT)
From: Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Subject: Re: Getting off of this list

when I was driving a vw I figured that farfugnugan (sp?)  meant 
"so far f**ked I need a new one"

On Sat, 4 Oct 1997, Matt Cremean wrote:
> > 
> > So cry me a river...those FUKENGRUVEN t-shirts drive me nuts.  I'd
> > rather have one with a Rocket emblem, but it would have to say
> > FUKENMOOVIN' then...
> 
> Ha! I got one that says FARFROMLUZIN with a #43 race car on it. Wonder
> if he was driving an Olds? BTW- That gives me an !idea!. I can make
> T-shirts in my Graphic Design class. I was thinking about one with an
> Olds (73) on it that says FUKENKRUZIN. Good idea?
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 17:06:50 -0700
From: Greg Kalkhoff <gkalkhof@execpc.com>
Subject: Hot Starting Problems

All,

Thanks for everyones input and feedback. 

Here's what happened today!  ):

Took the battery to to have it load tested. Well, it was only at 10% charge, but it load 
tested ok. Left it there to be deep charged over the weekend. So, I bought another brand 
new one (I needed another anyway for the car I swiped it from).

So, since the battery wasn't getting charged, I figured it must be the alternator. So, I 
get one and put it in. I start the car. Starts and runs fine. I look under the hood and I 
can hear the alternator whining a bit, as if it's charging....   OK... No problem. I let 
it idle for a few minutes. I feel the alternator and it's RED HOT! I pop the caps off the 
battery and it's BOILING inside! WHOA!  OVERCHARGE city here. I quick turn off the car.

So, I figure the voltage regulator is hosed. I take the cap off to inspect. No visual 
signs trouble. I decide to start the car again and see what the contacts are doing. The 
lower set was closed (I believe thats the charging side) and the upper set was open. I 
took my fingernail and gently lifted the lower point set open. I could hear the 
alternator stop charging. I have never messed with a voltage regulator before, so I 
thought now is as good a time to wreck it as any.  

I tried set the gap closer on the upper side so the lower set would open and not charge. 
The best I could do was to get it to click off and on intermitantly. I was watching this 
ocurr for a minute or so when the lower contacts stopped and remained open. From that 
point on, I could no longer get the alternator to charge (even with all lights and 
accessories on). 

I'm pretty confident that I burned out the new alternator!!! AND I'm pretty sure the 
voltage regulator is toast too. No biggie though. I returned the alternator as defective 
and picked up a new voltage regulator. I ran out of time today as I have to work tonight. 
So, I will do that tomorrow.

I understand that the new voltage regulator is pre-set. Is that true? Is there anything I 
should know or do beyond a simple change out on this stuff before I burn up another 
perfectly good alternator and wreck a new voltage regulator?? 

PS...even through all this, the ammeter didn't work at any time either. I'm stumped on 
that one!

Thanks again for all the help.

Sparky
- -- 
Greg Kalkhoff                                        See the Sparkmobile
Toronado FAQ Administrator                     http://www.442.com/kalkhoff.html
http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/torofaqs.htm
AKA "Sparky"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 17:27:13 -0700
From: Eric Aksomitis <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Ga and G heads I got

I just got back from moving all my cars to my newly acquired Olds
graveyard, and I picked up my set of free heads and intake.

The heads are marked Ga and G, which means, I assume, they're not a
pair, but I'm not worried.  I am wondering what makes them any different
from my J heads, after a little machine work.  I plan to get the set I
used fixed up for flow to match my new 72 non-egr intake for my 75 block
(455)  

Unfortunately, the machine shop I'm going to just doesn't get a high
volume of Olds heads to fix up, so I would like it if I could get me a
machine-shop-readable set of instructions for them to do my heads.  They
are a quality shop and all, I just want to make sure they get all the
olds-info they need to do a good job.

Thanx..  (BTW, note the new address, no longer aksomi@cs.uregina.ca)

- -- 
- -------------Self Promo V3.0--------------------------
Eric Aksomitis  http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi
mailto:big_olds@hotmail.com   See it all, click above
- ------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 17:25:18 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Seat Belt Torx Head Bolts -- Size?

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
> 
> Does anyone know offhand what size Torx socket (is that the right
> term?
> Driver maybe?) I need to remove the seat belt attaching bolts on the
> '78
> Delta? I looked at one store and the biggest they carried was a T-50.
> Not
> sure if it is big enough.
> 

I believe the T-50 will get most of 'em.  I've seen some T-45's work,
too.  Not sure which is correct, though.
 
             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
             Box 524               | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Sidney, Montana 59270 | http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
	     "TRBO LVR" (Maybe???:)| '83 Turbo Regal
               	     Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 19:40:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: CarrDuff@aol.com
Subject: Re: Console Question

In a message dated 97-10-04 08:33:08 EDT, you write:

<< NO, NO, NO!
 You DO NOT have to take the "T" part off!
 Simply remove the shift ball, lift up the bezel and rotate it 90 degrees
 and it will clear easily.
  
 Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
 71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)  >>


Your right Kurt,  You don't have to take the "T" part off just to take the
console plate off.  I know I worked with these shifters before I must have
had to take it off to remove the console which has that black plastic plate
that slides back and forth when you shift.

So al, just unsrew the knob and the plate will come right off.

Steve Dietrich
  S/E PA
    71 442 W30 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 19:41:21 -0400 (EDT)
From: Injedolds@aol.com
Subject: 394 olds blower drive

 looking for blower drive pulleys ect also a B & M shifter for 4 sp hydro

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 19:49:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: C smog heads

My '67 CS has a 400-2V engine with C heads with smog fittings. The car
otherwise has dual exhausts and is an enjoyable cruiser, and I've got a 4V
manifold I'd like to install.
My question is this: Can these heads be modified to run without the
smog fittings? Does anybody have any experience with these heads?
Of course am also planning to do away with smog pump etc..which car now still
has.
Thanks!
Peter/CoupeKing@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 18:51:10 -0500
From: Brett Chaveriat <brett@mcs.com>
Subject: Re: Hot Starting Problems

> 
> The car starts excellent when cold. I drove 3 miles to the gas station, turned it off,
> filled it up, and tried to start it. It went, "Errrr Err Er....CLICK CLICK CLICK!" There
> I sat, with a full tank of gas and can't go anywhere!  ):
> 
> This happened the other day which is why I put a new starter in it yesterday. Guess that
> wasn't it afterall.
> 
> If the car sits for a long while (cools off significanlty), it starts right up. Today, I
> didn't have time to wait, plus it was 87 degrees here today, so I called my buddy to jump
> me. With the jump, it fired right up! When I got home, I shut if off and tried to start
> it right away....click click click.....NOTHING!
Greg,
	I had the same heat soak problem in my 72 Cutlass with a 455.  I had
replaced 
the starter also to no avail, as well as installing a remote starter
solenoid.  
I dropped off somebody at Ohare Airport in Chicago this spring and had 
it not start in the departure lanes for several hours.  I had it towed
to a good mechanic 
after I smoked the insulation on the battery wires.  He replaced the
battery wires with 
2 guage (or bigger, I forget) units, cleaned up the attachment point to
the block for the 
neg wire, and replaced the replacement starter with a custom built heavy
duty starter.
I am convinced that this solved the problem.  This is not just the heavy
duty GM version.
I am sure that it is available locally, but let me know if you can't
find one and I 
will find out from the mechanic where he got it.  It includes some
welded (instead of the
regular soldered) connections.  
	My car starts after being heated up better than it ever did cold
before!  By the way, 
the starter costs $150, but was well worth it.

- -- 
Brett Chaveriat                                    Arlington Hts, IL 
mailto:brett@mcs.com

72 Cutlass Supreme Convt. (Radiant Green)
92 Harley Davidson Electra Glide (2-tone blue)
96 Impala SS (black)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 19:54:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: Injedolds@aol.com
Subject: Re: Console Question

 Hi your reply to someones question about a console came to me by mistake
  please check your adress see ya
          mike  

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 19:40:46 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Carlisle

Got back from Carlisle.  There were a number of Olds there, although not
many W-Machines.
Saw a number of early '60s big cars, a'63 Starfire convertible ($10K), a
'69 H/O ($23K!) and a butt ugly '72 Cutlass convertible that had already
sold.  It was orange (as were the bumpers) with tan stripes, top and
interior (gag).  

One vendor from PA had a gorgeous '72 Vista Cruiser (gold) that was not
for sale, but a gentleman from Holland was trying very hard to get them
to sell (no luck).  Another vendor (that I didn't talk to) had an REO
Speed Wagon that they converted into a camper (cool).

I didn't do too bad, I came home with 2 cars, a '70 4-4-2 and a Hurst
Hairy Olds ;-)  I picked up the following:
'70 4-4-2 model kit by Jo-Han			$12
Hurst Hairy Olds model kit			$12
rebuilt HEI with Accel super coil 	       $140	
    and Accel super stock 8mm plug wires
4-4-2 t-shirt					$10
16x20 picture of a '70 pace car			 $3
"Olds 442 Drive" street sign for the rec room	$20
					       ----
					Total  $197
Talked with a vendor selling model kits about the Lindberg '67 4-4-2
W-30.  He brought a fross with him and sold them all Friday.  He said
the problem with the kit was the hood.  The car has a depression in the
middle of the hood, but the kit is raised there.  He said he has some
more more, so I'll call him this week.

- -- 
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 19:58:36 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Fall Carlise

James Thingwold wrote:

> P.S.  I've still got the nice '72 front bumper off it too for sale still......

Lisa,
I'd be interested in the bumper, mine frowns (both sides bent down
somewhat).  Let me know the condition and price.

Thanks
- -- 
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 20:18:53 -0400
From: dave <dave70ss@ici.net>
Subject: rear view

Thanks for trunk lid info!
I want to install a new rear view mirror with a map light
i think i found a plug for it near the emergency brake. Is this
the right one? I also am trying to replace the bulb inside, 
right now it seems that i have to pull the new bulb end
out further so it will fit. It is also hard to get back in. Does
the mirror itself come apart?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 20:21:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Dipstick Tube Installation

no!no!no!,  it is easy to install ,even if it`s still in the car.  slip a
3/8drive  3/8"deep throat    socket and extenison over the top of the tube
,slide it down into the block, tap with a hammer and it will pop right in.
 done this many times.  hope this is of help,  steven. w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 20:26:28 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: W Machine Pole

DROLDS350@aol.com wrote:
> 
> I think that the W45 was the 1970 Rallye 350.

Yes, it was, and also the non-air 68 Hurst/Olds.  W-45 I believe was
also used for the 72 H/O as well.

2 cents. 

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 20:29:57 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Web of Wheels

So nice I voted twice for the 69 Olds.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 20:36:16 -0400 (EDT)
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Shift indicator question

change the speedo, dont need the indicator on floor shifter modle. if you
need one let me know i have one.  steven.  w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 20:44:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: Re: Muscle Car Review

    hi jeff
            acc has a calender out and if you mention the calendar when you
order you save 15 percent  so mention the calendar  . phone number is 1 800
350 0835
                                        good luck 
                                              jim

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 19:49:41 -0500
From: Tom Williams <tjwilli@Megavision.com>
Subject: 1972 Cutlass Supreme

Hi All,
     I am just interested in getting opinions on what any or everyone
thinks would be a fair price on a 72 Cutlass Supreme. There is a 1972
Cutlass Supreme for sale here in a local paper descripton is Automatic
Power Steering, Power Brakes, Cruise Control, Power Windows, Bucket
Seats, Center Console, Air, Numbers Matching 455, 3:23 Posi, Rally-pac
Guage cluster, very straight and rust only in the passenger side fender
but very little rust. The asking price is $1900.00, I felt this was a
very fair price but the car is located about 90 miles from here so I
have not had a chance to go look at it yet. He is taking it to a swap
meet tommorow so I do not know if I will get there before he sells it if
he does sell it there. Thanks for any answers on the price.

Thanks
Tom Williams
1970 W-31

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 20:53:04 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Best paint for cast grey SS wheels (76)?

Marvin Friesen wrote:
> 
> What is the best paint match for my 1976 cast grey SS wheels? 

I've used the stuff from Eastwood (spray gray) and Supercars Unlimited,
and it looks really nice.  It was a little darker by a hair, but I
figured the originals suffered some sort of fade.  Either way, they look
very good.  Spray gray from Eastwood is the same shade as the Supercar's
version IMO.

2 pennies.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 21:00:43 -0400 (EDT)
From: BMAN6771@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1972 Cutlass Supreme

sounds like a nice car for less than 2k
my $.02

brent 1967 cutlass ragtop

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 97 21:02:14 -0500
From: Mike Hall <oldsmike@flash.net>
Subject: 3 Motors & Racin'...

For the curious, those three motors that were advertised a while back 
turned out to be a fairly good find. Mark Prince and I went down to 
Medina, OH to see what yours truly was getting himself into...

Three 455's, one bare core, the other two partially disassembled. The 
bare core is a F block the other two are F3's. Two 73' vintage Q-jet's 
came with the package so the F3 blocks are probably that year. Plenty of 
surface rust on the bores of the F3's, I think they will clean up OK. Got 
two nodular iron cranks, one pair of Ga heads, one pair of J's. One 4 
barrel intake and some other miscellaneous pieces. After some dealing, I 
ended up paying $150 for the whole package. Needless to say, I am VERY 
happy with my purchase. My thanks again to Mark Prince for taking the 
time to help me on another Oldsmobile adventure!

On the Racing front, a fairly large gathering of Detroit Street Rockets 
gathered at the Detroit Dragway yesterday evening. My first time at the 
Detroit Drags and had a lot of fun. The cars timimg is up quite a bit and 
my old heat soak problem with the starter is back in full force. That 
little issue will be fixed this winter, guaranteed. The weather was cool 
but not cool enough for me and was plenty humid. Didn't have much luck 
breaking out of the fourteens, in fact I duplicated my best Norwalk time 
of 14.27 and ran a 14.28. The cars feels much better however and I think 
the conditions just weren't right. Most of the guys in our group were 
running quite a bit slower, almost .2 to .4 off their usual mark, so I am 
actually encouraged by that. There were some exceptions to that, of 
course, some of the guys were right on with their normal times.


Michael R. Hall: OCA #17903                    Ortonville, Michigan
Home E-Mail: oldsmike@flash.net
The Ever-Growing Oldsmobile Stable:
1971 Oldsmobile 442    
1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
1987 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Custom Cruiser
1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #885
********************************

