To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #849


oldsmobile-digest     Tuesday, September 16 1997     Volume 01 : Number 849



Re: Octane Ratings
RE: 84 H/O engine swap
Re: Oldsmobile question
Twin batteries
Re: O.C.A. why join?
Re: Oldsmobile question
Re: E-400 motor
Re: U-joint Strap for '70 SX
Re: I hope I didn't screw up my tranny
Re: 68 455
Re: Parting out 66 Olds Toronado!!!
'66 Toro
Re: Parting out 66 Olds Toronado!!!
Re: Twin batteries
Re: Twin batteries
Re: 68 455
Re: 84 H/O engine swap
Re: Twin batteries
setting the pace.....reply
Re: 67 Cutlass Supreme conv part 2
Re: Twin batteries
Re: Internut
Setting The Pace
Re: 68 455
Re: 4spd auto tranny ID help plzzzzzzzzz!!!!
Re: A new direction for Olds? How about an Olds "Boxter"?!
Re: 66/67 425 442s
Re: I hope I didn't screw up my tranny
[Fwd: Sale of Olds] '66 F-85 sedan
Re: Setting The Pace
External Therm.
Re: External Therm.
Re: Setting The Pace
Re: External Therm.
Re: PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale
Re: More Lansing Pics!
Olds publications
Re: 455 Motors 4-Sale
W-455 Intake Nipple  HERE'S THE PART ª!!!!!!!
400 vs. 425 vs. 455
Re: I hope I didn't screw up my tranny
What is OCA
mid 80s Delta FS.
Terry's 68 455
OAI Hoods
Re: O.C.A. why join?
rear axle conversion
hotrodding the 307
Re: Parting out 66 Olds Toronado!!!
RE: 84 H/O engine swap
Re: A better mechanical fuel pump
Dash Pad Price?
Re: OAI Hoods
Re: Twin batteries
Re: Octane Ratings
Any T-top advice?
Re: Dash Pad Price?
Re: OAI Hoods
Re: 455 Motors 4-Sale
Re: OAI Hoods
Re: Terry's 68 455
rebuilding olds 403
RE: OAI Hoods

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 15:02:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: WKBZZZZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: Octane Ratings

sorry about the typo, glad you all found it. Hope this answered the orig.
question.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 13:05:17 -0600
From: Dave Orth <dave@profitsystems.net>
Subject: RE: 84 H/O engine swap

I'm thinking of doing the same thing to my '84 H/O, after 160k it doesn't
have the power it used to.

My biggest problem is that everyone I've talked to has gotten rid of most
of the computer functions, and I would like to retain them since we have a
emissions inspection here in this part of CO.  I also feel that I can
sacrifice a little power for cleaner air, if I have to.

Can the stock computer (maybe with a "chip") work reliably with a slightly
modified 350?  I won't to build a 350 with a cam one or two steps "hotter"
then the original long-duration cam that is in the car now.  That shouldn't
affect vacuum based controls, because a larger engine makes more vacuum (as
long as you don't have too much duration in the cam).  Am I going down the
right track or is my thinking off? (whoops I probably don't want to know)

I understand that all accessories from the 307 will bolt on to the 350, I
know I need 350 heads w/AIR , but do all the years that 350's were made
have all of the attachment points? (for AC brackets, PS etc... )  Or should
I look for certain ones?

Who makes decent headers for a small block Olds with O2 sensor bungs?

One last question:  does anyone know a place that can rebuild an electronic
Quadra-jet correctly?

Thanks
Dave
'84 Hurst/Olds
dave@profitsystems.net
I've only been on the list for a few months, but everyone's questions and
answers sure help me understand "things" better!

- -----Original Message-----
From:Tom Lentz [SMTP:tlentz@ior.com]
Sent:Monday, September 15, 1997 12:01 PM
To:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:Re: 84 H/O engine swap

There are plenty of ways you can set the engine up, but my personal
philosophy is to leave the computer controls intact.  It seems like a much
more elegant solution.  I don't think an H/O should be hacked and gutted
for a new engine.  Swapping in another olds small block, sure.  But if
you're going to gut it and hack things up, you could just as easily start
with a normal Cutlass.

If you use headers, you'll need ones with an O2 sensor fitting.  Use the
carb and distributor off of the 307 (I've heard this carb is something like
650 CFM, way more than a 307 needs and plenty for a 330).  If you
disconnect the computer, the biggest problem I can see is losing the lockup
torque converter.  You'll have to rig up something to lock this manually.

The tranny should work just fine, although I don't know if the 330 has the
same pattern on the flexplate (I know next-to-nothing about the 330).  If
the 330 is ultra-high compression, you should probably find a way to lower
the compression to a more reasonable value, like 9.0 or 9.5:1 to both live
on street gas, and be compatible with the computer.  A very lumpy camshaft
will also cause the computer problems.

Steve wrote:

> I wonder if anyone out there in Oldsmobile land can advise me as to the
> problems I am likely to run into by substituting a 65 330 (built) for
> the 307 in my 84 H/O.  I plan to use an aftermarket intake, probably
> with headers, at least not with the stock manifolds.  I expect I will
> have to replace the carb, and the HEI.  Perhaps, though, I am mistaken,
> and will be able to leave the computer hooked up except for the smog
> stuff?  If I disconnect the carb, HEI, and smog paraphenelia, will the
> computer still work in relation to the voltage regulator, A/C, guages,
> cruise control, neutral start switch, etc.?????  What about the trans?
> I have the option of using the 65 long block with the 84 setup, meaning
> intake w/carb, exhaust manifolds, and the whole shebang, but I'd rather
> "go for the gusto" and not choke the engine down with all the extra
> hardware.  I would appreciate it greatly if someone who has actually
> done this could advise me as to the pitfalls to expect.  Thanks.
> Steve.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 14:08:46 -0500
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile question

>The passenger side sunvisor won't stay in the up position.
>I've tried tightening the screw next to the hinge, but that
>did nothing.  Any ideas as to how to fix this problem?

The corner may have torn away from the visor inside the cover,
where you can't see it, and the whole severed visor is now
rotating, more-or-less, on the tightened-up mounting pivot.
Try _unscrewing_ it to see if it'll come off, then see if the
whole mounting point is torn up inside. Junkyard replacement
time, I suspect.

Of course, if you do end up at the junkyard, you could take the
opportunity to find one with a lighted vanity mirror in it, FWIW...


Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 13:12:14 -0600 (CST)
From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Subject: Twin batteries

I would like to know:
I have two 700 CA batteries (I would like a new 900 CA, but I already
have these).  One is a multi-post, so I decided to make my own
two-battery car for winter.  The car is a 72 98, 455, so I could use all
the Amps I can get at -42 Celcius + windchill!

What would the CA's be with two 700's in parralel?  What about the
voltage drop under load?

Experiences, comments, and ideas are welcome (smaller bateries are so
much cheaper if they could just turn my car over in the winter, I'd be
laughing)!

BTW, CA = Cranking Amp's

Thanx...

...............self-promo sig file Version 2.2...............
Eric Aksomitis:
Virtual Junkyard: Current count -> 5 vehicles
Oldsmobile Index: Current Count -> 8 vehicles
http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/       mailto:aksomi@cs.uregina.ca
Last update: 970912
..............................................................

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 15:43:08 -0400 (EDT)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: O.C.A. why join?

In a message dated 97-09-15 14:47:01 EDT, you write:

<< This may sound like a very dumb question, and it probably is, but
 what the hell is OCA???
  >>

BTW IMO i believe that OCA , FWIW means either Olds Club
of America, Overwhelmingly Classic Automobile, or Options Cost
 Astonomically,but the answer in question would be the first....TIM

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 15:09:20 -0500
From: Brett Chaveriat <brett@mcs.com>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile question

oldsmobile-digest wrote:

>
> Date: Mon, 15 Sep 97 01:18:29
> From: "Jesus M. Rodriguez" <zeusman@ibm.net>
> Subject: Oldsmobile question
>

>       The passenger side sunvisor won't stay in the up position.  I've tried
tightening the screw >        next to the hinge, but that did nothing.  Any
ideas as to how to fix this problem? >

Don't give up on the visor yet.  I had the same problem on an '85
Delta.
Remove the visor by loosening up the screw you mentioned.  I don't
recall the
exact failure mode, but take the screw out, and remove the guts of the
clamping
assembly It is tucked behind the cloth covering (the unattached ends of
the cloth
are tucked in right there.  Something was misshapen, I think.  I do
remember just reshaping whatever was out  of shape, and reinstalling
it.  It
has been fine ever since.  Worse case you may need a new plastic sleeve
for
it.  It only took a few minutes to fix.  If you would like further
details, I
can pull it apart again and recollect exactly what I did.  Let me know.
The screw is not stripped, as you are able to tighten it.  The opening
is just mis-shapen and preventing adequate tightening.

- --
Brett Chaveriat                                    Arlington Hts, IL
mailto:brett@mcs.com

72 Cutlass Supreme Convt. (Radiant Green)
92 Harley Davidson Electra Glide (2-tone blue)
96 Impala SS (black)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 20:25:58 GMT
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: E-400 motor

>        I need one of your universal flywheels if they are avail. Didn't
>know anyone had one.

Actually, if you have a drill-press or just a steady hand (drill press
preferred), *any* Olds flywheel can be made to be a "universal-fit" unit.
Only one hole is different, and it's just 5' (about) from symmetrical, but
in the opposite direction than the later units. This means, I believe, that
you can flip over a new-style unit to use as a pattern for an old-style
bolt-pattern (the way to check, of course, is to see if you can install an
old-style flywheel/flexplate backwards...). The details on this are in the
archives.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 20:26:03 GMT
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: U-joint Strap for '70 SX

>Is there something special about these u bolts? could you use the ones from
>any cutlass rear? if so i have a couple orignals (70's) laying around i would
>part with. we are tailking about the two u-bolts that hold the u-joint to the
>rear?

Yes, those are the exact U-bolts I'm talking about. Really, the only thing
special about them is that part of curved section is kind of flattened; any
U-bolt of the right diameter bend that is strong enough would work. I'm sure
that the ones from the Cutlass would work.

Thanks for the offer, but I just appended an order for a pair of them to
some other stuff I had to get from Year One. FWIW, they were charging $6 for
a pair, including the nuts and lockwashers. My local discount parts place
got me for $4.95/each for the ones that ended up being useable but a bit too
short for comfort.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 20:26:04 GMT
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: I hope I didn't screw up my tranny

>This morning in So. Cal (was raining so the roads are slick) I was
>driving to work in my 82 DRB.  I normally drive the car manually
>even though it is automatic.  While acceleration unto the freeway
>ramp, I must had hit a puddle while in first.  I was amazed that the
>car's speedo indicated 50+ mph speed which I soon let off my foot
>from the accelerator.  I was amazed that it could even get that high
>a mph.  It only lasted a second so I am hoping that I didn't screw up
>the tranny.

No, I'm sure the tranny is fine.

It's your motor that's now probably shot.














JUST KIDDING! ;)

I'm sure you didn't hurt anything; 50mph in first with a 2.whatever rear
gear is not ridiculously high (I'm sure you didn't pass 6000rpm). Just don't
make a habit of it (we get a lot of rain here, so we are used to not
stepping on the gas pedal so far when the roads are wet).
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 20:26:00 GMT
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: 68 455

>hello all I have a 68 Olds with a 455 in it. It has the c heads. This is
>about all I know about it. I think it is the higher compression engine.
>I don't have any specs and was wondering if anyone could guess the hp or
>thell me how to figure it out without a dyno?

Well, Terry and Tammy, the 2-bbl (all, 310hp?) and 4-bbl export 455 engines
(don't know the hp) had the 9.0:1 compression, while the 4-bbl 455's had the
10.25:1, all having "C" heads (the difference in compression was from the
different pistons). If you've got a 4-bbl, it's almost certainly a 10.25:1
motor, and it's 9.0:1 if it's got the 2-bbl. I don't think they released the
10.25:1 2-bbl motor until 1970, and then only for a few months. Oh, if it's
a 4-bbl, you've got your choice of hp ratings: 365hp as the standard motor
in big-cars, 375hp as the standard Toronado engine, 390hp as the
high-performance big-car motor (would most likely have dual-exhausts; also
basis for the H/O, but using "D" heads), and the virtually identical-spec
W-34 Toronado motor rated at 400hp.

What model Olds is your '68? Most likely, you've got the 10.25:1 365hp motor.

Oops! I'm on digest, so I just saw that you replied:

>thanks for the info yes it has that gas cap. I have set the timing
>retarded to run lower octane gas. Would a different cam up the hp?

I've got the same basic motor in my Toro; I found that by reducing the
vacuum advance alone, I've been able to run 93 octane without retarding the
initial or total timing at all. And yes, a different cam would increase the
horsepower.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Sep 1997 20:39:29 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Parting out 66 Olds Toronado!!!

Michael - the Olds List is not accepting messages it seems - ?!?!

I am in Orange County and interested in the following off this car:  driver
side non-remote mirror & the carb if the motor is still intact.   Is this
at the Wilmington yard?  I am anxious to hear about this  - when you get my
other two messages that are bouncing around on teh Olds List (as it bounces
around wherever) I apologize for bugging in advance.

Thanks much


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass (Ruby)
'66 Toronado (LA Woman)
'67 Delta 88 Custom  (Tizzy)
'69 Toronado (Toro II)
'72 Vista Cruiser (VC)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Sep 1997 15:29:01 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: '66 Toro

To the guy who advised of the '66 Toro in LA area junkyard - I need a carb
also.  Could you inquire into the price for that?  Also driver side
non-remote mirror desperately needed.

I'm in Orange County


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass (Ruby)
'66 Toronado (LA Woman)
'67 Delta 88 Custom  (Tizzy)
'69 Toronado (Toro II)
'72 Vista Cruiser (VC)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 21:32:52 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Parting out 66 Olds Toronado!!!

Could you please check for a non-remote drivers side mirror?  Good pass.
front wheel well molding?  That is all I need at this time - almost makes
me wish I could take more but the Good Lord knows I have too many other
cars with needs as well :-)

Lisa

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 16:59:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: ROKMORT@aol.com
Subject: Re: Twin batteries

Hi Group
  Don't think its such a hot idea to put two batteries in parallel, even if
they are
identical.  This because they probably don't have identical internal
impedances,
and therefore will have a continuous cirulation of a small amount of current,

constantly running them down.  Better to put a switch in, and alternate using
one, then the other, every week.  Keep in mind a switch does increase the
number of connections, though, and any weak connection is trouble.   I just
keep a stong
spare battery ready to go in the trunk, and som extra battery connectors in
the glovebox, with the wrenchs to change them.

Michael J. Morton

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 17:14:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: Twin batteries

..............-42.......nj doesnt seem to bad at
all,......-42???????!!!!!!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 17:15:06 -0400
From: "Terry & Tammy" <dawgs@conninc.com>
Subject: Re: 68 455

thanks for the info I have a four barrel and the car is a Delta Custom.
Single exhaust. My dad bought the car new and had always told me that
the car was 400hp but I didn;t beleve him but maybe?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 17:16:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: 84 H/O engine swap

ill let you know about the comp.       Im putting a built 350 into my 86
salon, should be running in a few weeks.....:-]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 17:19:22 -0400
From: "Terry & Tammy" <dawgs@conninc.com>
Subject: Re: Twin batteries

hello I have had alot of expereinces with twin batterys in boats. Most
of the set ups will allow you to use 1,2 or both of the batteries. I
would recomend that you should use the battery switch and st it up that
way, another reason is that if one battery goes bad it will kill the
other battery also. If you need help with the switch setup e-mail me and
I can supply you with the switch or help you get one.

Terry Teague
68 Delta Custom

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 17:23:09 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: setting the pace.....reply

im a current oca memb...ª020883, i didnt even know they were sending those
great
books out. I love reading about olds people and all there stories and tips,
although this digest is awesome too!!!!!  But i have to admit, getting that
grat book for free was very nice of olds, i dont think to many companies
would do that.......
bernie....nj

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 17:50:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: 67 Cutlass Supreme conv part 2

330 2bl was rated at 250hp,  4bl at 310hp, 330 4bl hi-comp eng 320hp.
depending on the frame, i wouldnt pay more than 1500, but the rest of the
cars shape has alot to do with it. Even mint c/s conv arent getting that
much, does the car have a/c??
 Do a comp test on eng.  I woulg guess around $750, maybe. How is the rest of
car.....front end, elec. system, does every option work?, etc etc, just my 2
cents, ive bought and sold many 67 olds.

Bernie......67 f-85....67 442 conv...........

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 17:51:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: ROKMORT@aol.com
Subject: Re: Twin batteries

Dear Group,

About as cold as it gets here in Southern California during winter is +42...
Maybe it the body heat from all 30 million of us....

Your friend,

Michael j. Morton

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 16:52:47 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Internut

John,

Consider joining your page to the 'Oldsmobile WebRing' that Jason Adcock
started.  Just click on the icon at the bottom of my webpage (the url is
below).
It's kinda neat to have each Olds subject page linked to each other.

Mick Gillespie, Columbus, Indiana
69 Cutlass S convertible
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

- -----Original Message-----
From: John Pajak <jspajak@rocketmail.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, September 15, 1997 8:48 AM
Subject: Internut

<snip>
>     Opps! It's a wonder I've gotten this far! Once I get some
>pictures digitized I'll try to get them there....It's tough since we
>don't have a PC at home....all my INTERNUTTING is done from work or
>the local library!
<snip>
>
>70 W30
>72 W30
>70 W31
>+ lots more
>
>John Pajak                       Information Spectrum Inc.
>Network Installation Team
>Naval Air Station, Patuxent River, Maryland
>
>HTTP://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak
>
>JSPajak@rocketmail.com
>
>
>
>_____________________________________________________________________
>Sent by RocketMail. Get your free e-mail at http://www.rocketmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 17:59:18 -0400
From: tgstoner@umich.edu
Subject: Setting The Pace

On Mon, 15 Sep 1997 Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
wrote:

>How can those of use who aren't members get a copy of this book?

****************************
The vendor who was selling Oldsmobile Centennial merchandise at several
locations in Lansing during the celebration, was selling copies of Setting
The Pace for $20.00 plus tax.  That's how I got my copy, since my OCA
membership had lapsed during the period that the members were receiving
copies directly from Oldsmobile.

I don't recall the name of the company although they've been mentioned many
times in the past on this list.  I do have information from them at home
however, and I do know that they also have a mail order business for their
items.  I believe that they have a toll-free telephone number for orders as
well.  If no one else can supply that information for Chris and other list
members immediately, I'll try to remember to look it up tonight and post it
tomorrow.  Unless they sold out of books during the week in Lansing,
they'll probably still be willing to sell the remainders for the same
price, plus shipping.

Tom Stoner
Oldsmobile Club of America ª3943
Ann Arbor, MI
tgstoner@umich.edu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 18:30:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: 68 455

i would suggest looking up the vin number and cross reference it with a
chilton's owners manual.  this will tell you the hp and all the other specs
it the engine is all number matching.

mikey tvb@aol.com
high school student

73 cutlass w/403

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 22:35:50 +0000
From: Tom Millard <oldspwr@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: 4spd auto tranny ID help plzzzzzzzzz!!!!

At 09:22 AM 9/15/97 +0000, you wrote:
>i have a gm 4spd auto trans w/a yellow horiz. mted tag on it.   On the left
>there is a "o" and on the right there is a "g". any help would b apprec.


It sounds like the trans you got is a TH-200 R4.  By visual inspection, it
should have an unusual shaped pan that almost looks like 2 parts.  The tail
shaft should not be removable.  By code inspection, your tag says OG which
is a 200-4R from a 307 Olds powered car.  Hope this info helps...

If anybody is interested in any 200-4R info, drop me a line.  I spent the
last two summers working on mine in my 403 powered 79 Cutlass.  I finally
got all the bugs worked out last month.

Tom Millard OLDSPWR@worldnet.att.net
79 Cutlass - Street/Strip/Show
86 442 - Summer Driver
79 Cutlass - Winter Bomb

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 18:45:28 -0400 (EDT)
From: BMAN6771@aol.com
Subject: Re: A new direction for Olds? How about an Olds "Boxter"?!

no, i haven't seen the production car yet. i only saw the model they had at
the transportation went i was in lansing:) but i cant wait to see the
production model.

later
brent
1967 cutlass ragtop

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 20:12:49 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: 66/67 425 442s

Patton wrote:

>         It is possible that this was dealer installed and that the badges 
were
> pieced together.

This sounds like a strong possibility.  In '67 there were two Delmont 88
series.  The standard Delmont (with the 330) and the Delmont 425.
Naturally, the Delmont 425 had the 425 motor, but it also had little 425
badges that were placed directly below the Delmont script on the front
fenders.  It's possible that these 425 badges could have been placed
under the 442 badges in this case.

It's a little like the case of a local fellow who bought a new '88 Buick
Regal and promptly placed Diesel badges on the trunk and both front
fenders.  Lots of local folks believed he had a diesel.  My Dad swore to
it.  Then I was following him one day and heard it run.  Definately not
a diesel.  He traded that car at out dealership a few years later and I
asked him about it.  Says he did it to drive people crazy and that he
got questions about it all the time.  He put diesel badges on the new
car too.  The last I saw he was driving a Neon.  It too is wearing
diesel badges.  You can do anything if the pieces are available from the
parts department.

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 20:16:33 -0400
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: I hope I didn't screw up my tranny

50mph in first gear?  What are you running for ratios in that thing?
Since you made it to work, the tranny *should* be all right, but I'm
surprised the engine didn't go V.V.K. (voom-voom-kaboom!) on you.

The 307 should be good up to 5500, maybe 6000 if done sporadically (like
this!)  I wouldn't suggest doing that too often...good way to clean the
carbon out, though!

Just remember this;  if it were a F*rd, you'd be sweeping up your crank
and rod assembly with a dustpan...

S. Dave Ward

'78 Delta 88 (350 4bbl.)
'85 Delta 88 (307 4bbl.)
'91 GMC Sierra 4x4 (305 TBI)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 20:21:57 -0400
From: "Bradford W. Nicholson" <brad442@erols.com>
Subject: [Fwd: Sale of Olds] '66 F-85 sedan

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Reply directly, to  "J.C.Reynolds" jcreynolds@sprintmail.com
He isn't a digest member
- --

 ---
| | | Brad Nicholson
| | | 1987 442 W-42
|/|\| 1994 Eight Eight LSS
| | | Oldsmobile Club of America ª18984
 ---  Oldsmobile Centennial Club - MD
e-Mail: brad442@erols.com
Personal Web Site - http://www.erols.com/brad442
Official OCA Web Site - http://www.erols.com/brad442/oca

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Brad, my mom is trying to sell a practically restored "cherry" 1966
F-85 Cutlus sedan. She is 76, can't drive anymore and is the original
owner.I told her I would see what I could do on the web.She lives in
the S.F.Bay area.You're my first stop on the web. If there are any ideas
or suggestions on how I can help her sell this classic to someone who
appreciates and cares for fine automobiles, I would appreciate it.
Please E-mail me at: jcreynolds@sprintmail.com


- --------------EBF1E8A4153--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 20:29:24 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Setting The Pace

tgstoner@umich.edu wrote:

> The vendor who was selling Oldsmobile Centennial merchandise at several
> locations in Lansing during the celebration, was selling copies of Setting
> The Pace for $20.00 plus tax.

That would be Alpha One out of Coldwater Mi.  1-800-338-2955.  The
catalog I got with my Centennial stuff many months ago says they want
$21.95 plus tax.

These are also available from the RE Olds Museum in Lansing.  I believe
they are the folks who want $30.

Numbered and autographed copies are available from Al Sandy in New
Jersey, an Oldsmobile literature and Oldsmobiliana dealer.

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 20:31:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mancinj@aol.com
Subject: External Therm.

Did the external thermometer shown as an option on the '73 Cutlass also come
as an option on the '72? It mounted on the driver's door just forward of the
side view mirror.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 20:40:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: External Therm.

i own a 73 cutlass and i don't think that was an option.  if so i don't think
my car originally came with one.  where did you find out that the 73 had such
an option?

mikey tvb@aol.com
73 cutlass w/403

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 20:49:54 -0400
From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Subject: Re: Setting The Pace

At 08:29 PM 9/15/97 +0000, you wrote:
>tgstoner@umich.edu wrote:
>
>> The vendor who was selling Oldsmobile Centennial merchandise at several
>> locations in Lansing during the celebration, was selling copies of Setting
>> The Pace for $20.00 plus tax.
>
>That would be Alpha One out of Coldwater Mi.  1-800-338-2955.  The
>catalog I got with my Centennial stuff many months ago says they want
>$21.95 plus tax.
>
>These are also available from the RE Olds Museum in Lansing.  I believe
>they are the folks who want $30.
>
>Numbered and autographed copies are available from Al Sandy in New
>Jersey, an Oldsmobile literature and Oldsmobiliana dealer.

Yes, and I believe that Mr. Sandy wants $40 for the numbered/autographed ones.


Dan

*********************************************
Dan Gulino
1975 Delta 88 Convertible
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/rides.html
*********************************************
see my "scrapbook" of photos from the recent Oldsmobile
Centennial held in Lansing, Michigan at
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/lansing/lansing.html
*********************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 21:10:00 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: External Therm.

At 08:31 PM 9/15/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Did the external thermometer shown as an option on the '73 Cutlass also come
>as an option on the '72? It mounted on the driver's door just forward of the
>side view mirror.
>

Yes it did.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 21:21:36 -0700
From: "J. Michael Wolfe" <boogah@en.com>
Subject: Re: PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale

Jim & Joanne Chermack wrote:
>
> >Jim:
> >
> >Re the 71 Cutlass tail light lenses, would the total be 40.00 for the
> >complete set ( 2 on each side) or 20.00 (10.00 for each set of 2)?
> >
> >Re the 71 supreme that you are parting:
> >Do you have an original 4V manifold, air cleaner, and carb?
> >
> >Do you have a driver side headlight bezel?
> >
> >Thanks
> >Joe
> >
>
> Joe
>
>         Yes That would be $40.00 for a complete set or $20.00 per side. We
> have a 4 bbl manifold air cleaner and carb. Yes we have the drivers side
> headlight bezel for $15.00 ea.
>
> Jim Chermack
> C&M Classic Parts
> (757) 474-0869
Jim:

Do you take American Express?

What condition is the aircleaner / manifold/ carb?

I definitely want the drivers side headlight bezel.

Please let me know.

Joe
72 Cutlass Supreme
216-765-5458 work

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 21:30:48 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: More Lansing Pics!

i have those on my 86 salon
bernie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 21:47:22 -0400
From: jprand@juno.com
Subject: Olds publications

Are there any magazines that deal specifically with Oldsmobile.
Something like what Chrysler fans have in "Mopar Muscle". I've never seen
anything like that for Olds on a News rack, but figured it's worth
asking.

Jim Rand

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 21:41:45 -0400 (EDT)
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: Re: 455 Motors 4-Sale

i am interested, could always use an extra block or 2. is he going to
englishtown, nj or carlise pa??any idea what they are out of and are they
stock bore. I hope there not flower pots on his front lawn :) thanks for any
info you have
joe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 22:10:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin Hoopingarner <khooping@bright.net>
Subject: W-455 Intake Nipple  HERE'S THE PART ª!!!!!!!

RC,


I knew if I looked long and hard enough, I could come up with a part ª for
your nipple.  The GM part number is 405143  (description NIPPLE, ventilation
(steel-1 1/4").  I believe someone else already came up with the overall
length and this confirms it.  In addition, this was used (according to my
parts illustration book) on many applications including but not limited to
'69 H/O's, '70-71 OAI w/AT or ST, & all '72's with OAI and or ST, 73 A-Bodys
w/ST, and 73 A-Bodys w/L77 and M40 AT.  In my '75 Parts catalog I show a
price of $2.65. I would get hold of one of my local parts guys at any GM
dealership and have him do a search for you.  I tried online using a parts
locator but came up with a big fat 0.  I hope this helps.


Kevin Hoopingarner
'70 Olds 442 W-30
Findlay OH.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 19:17:43 -0000
From: "Rod Beydler" <rodsmobile@mscomm.com>
Subject: 400 vs. 425 vs. 455

Which makes the best bracket motor? Any ideas out there?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 18:17:08 -0700
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: I hope I didn't screw up my tranny

Dave Ward wrote:
>
> 50mph in first gear?  What are you running for ratios in that thing?

I don't know what the ratios are.  All I know is that I had the gear
selector in first and the speedo went from 30 to 50 in an instant.
What scared me the most is that my owner's manual claims that 45 is the
max anyone should run in first gear.  Oops!

> Since you made it to work, the tranny *should* be all right, but I'm
> surprised the engine didn't go V.V.K. (voom-voom-kaboom!) on you.

I got home safely.

> The 307 should be good up to 5500, maybe 6000 if done sporadically (like
> this!)  I wouldn't suggest doing that too often...good way to clean the
> carbon out, though!

:-)

> Just remember this;  if it were a F*rd, you'd be sweeping up your crank
> and rod assembly with a dustpan...

Feh! Nebech! Pooh! Pooh! Pooh! (Quote from Linda Richmond of Saturday
Night Live)

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 23:11:45 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: What is OCA

OCA = Oldsmobile Club of America. Their monthly newsletter is

_Journey With Olds_ commonly shortened here to "JWO"

Any more?
xst, intman, prolly, a million other things to make typing easier... BB, SB,
bv-C's, ya gotta have your jargon, right?
- --
Chris  B. Witt
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 23:00:37 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: mid 80s Delta FS.

On the way home from work today, caught a glimpse of a clean, 84-ish
(not sure of year) Delta 4-dr sitting on the side of the road with that
little rectangle sign of black/white/orange that we all know and love in
the windshield.  Didn't have time to stop, but it looked really nice.
What I remember...vinyl top and interior saddle in color , with
sienna/bronze body color.  Straight on driver's side, looks like a
little parking lot rash on pass. rear quarter.  Not to bad though.  Of
course, no rust.  South Carolina car.

If anyone is truly interested in this bronze bombshell, I'll definitely
make it a point to find out more.  Also, found an 84 Cutlass 2dr,
mettallic light rose with dark vinyl top, wire wheel covers.  Looks
really nice too. Straight body, no rust from what I can tell.  CLEAN!
Also on the way home from work.  Again, anyone truly interested, I'll
stop.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 23:20:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Terry's 68 455

hello all I have a 68 Olds with a 455 in it. It has the c heads. This is
about all I know about it. I think it is the higher compression engine.
I don't have any specs and was wondering if anyone could guess the hp or
thell me how to figure it out without a dyno?

thanks for the info yes it has that gas cap. I have set the timing
retarded to run lower octane gas. Would a different cam up the hp?

Terry Teague
68 Delta Custom
============

C heads cam on ALL 67-8-9 big blocks, regardless of CRatio. [Well, not *all*,
but let's talk non-W cars, non-H/O, run-o-the-mill cars...] S'far as I know, in
'68, almost all 2V motors were LC, defined as 9.0:1 back then, and the 4V
motors were HC at 10.25:1 nominal.

The gas cap clinches it. Use high octane, advance the spark. Tends to overheat
during idling otherwise. Has way more cajones with proper fuel & spark advance.
- --
Chris  B. Witt
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 15:22:17 -0400
From: tgstoner@umich.edu
Subject: OAI Hoods

All this talk about difficulty finding OAI hoods at any price, and the
astronomical prices asked for the ones which are to be found, makes me
wonder how difficult it would be to find proper manufacturers for the
various required pieces and just have a couple hundred of them built.
Almost without a doubt, General Motors didn't actually produce the
fiberglass piece for the originals, and if that's true the original
manufacturer might still be out there (around Lansing?) and able to make
them again.  Lock pins and the associated hardware probably came from one
or more small supplier shops as well, and could once again just as easily.
That only leaves the steel reinforcement framework and hinge assemblies,
which might have been stamped by Fisher Body, or someone else.  Granted, it
wouldn't be inexpensive to have a die made which would stamp out duplicate
frameworks for these hoods, but if that cost were divided between two
hundred or more hoods, it might not be unreasonable.  If not so perfect
originals are worth prices approaching $1000, what would a new exact
duplicate be worth?  Just wondering out loud . . .

Tom Stoner
Oldsmobile Club of America ª3943
Ann Arbor, MI
tgstoner@umich.edu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 23:36:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: CRuper1@aol.com
Subject: Re: O.C.A. why join?

In a message dated 97-09-15 14:23:44 EDT, you write:

<< >
 >How can those of use who aren't members get a copy of this book?
 >
 >Chris Sparks

 Chris,

 You can buy one.  There are one or two vendors advertising in JWO who sell
 them.  I can find the address if you're interested.  The price is $30, I
 believe.


 Dan
  >>
I bought mine for $20 at one of those "temporary" shops that sets up in the
middle of the shopping malls.  It was at Christmas time.  I'm sure if you
just check with the local bookstores, they would probably have it, or could
order it also.  It may be less (less than $30 that is... figure in shipping,
also...).

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 23:25:41 -0400
From: qcquad@cuny.campus.mci.net
Subject: rear axle conversion

i am looking for information where i can get the parts to convert my
10-bolt open non c-lock differential to a limited slip.

'71 cutlass supreme with one bald tire

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 23:46:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: hotrodding the 307

hottrodding the 307:
anemic, asthmatic, yes.
Two sorts of heads: early had the larger-port ª5A heads, as did the 350's of
the era. I don't see much point in hogging out the puny square ports of 6A & 7A
heads or fitting a large-port intake to s small-port head. Brick wall. Make a
funnel's top bigger, the stuff does not go thru faster.
  Get ª5A or earlier heads, THEN fit a large-port intake- the smogger AL
intakes: 5 is jive, 4 for more. A5 has puny ports, A4 has larger intake ports.
Using these large-port heads, fit your big valves in THEM.
  Oh, and check that carb's secondary opening- common trick was to fit the sec.
air valve with a longer tang on the RH end, such that the thing only opens
about 60%. First thing I'd change if the motor was breathing better...
  Oh, and the 7A heads, besides having the punyport syndrome, have puny exhaust
ports that only fit their xst manifolds. So, while you are swapping heads to
earlier than 6A, grab some xst manifolds, too. The common ª1 LH & ª5 RH should
bolt right up to both your large-port heads and the car's pipes.

  The 330 will swap right in. flexplate will stay on the 330 crank. Everything
else is same. Really, all gas SB Olds are very similar externally: some 
harmonic
balancer diffs over the years, different bores of course, 403 rods beefier,
some engines used roller cams, later ones had 3/8" pushrod balls... but for a
whole-engine swap, the prospects are real good.
  Keep 330 heads on that 330 so the pushrods don't rub on the holes thru the
heads.
- --
Chris  B. Witt
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 23:55:43 -0400 (EDT)
From: ROKMORT@aol.com
Subject: Re: Parting out 66 Olds Toronado!!!

Dear Lisa,
    I was getting tons of Olds mail all day, then none.. something happened.
I know the carb was a goner.  I'll have to check on the mirror for you.
 Anything
else you want me to look for?

Sincerely,  Michael j. Morton

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 22:02:54 -0600 (MDT)
From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Subject: RE: 84 H/O engine swap

> My biggest problem is that everyone I've talked to has gotten rid of most
> of the computer functions, and I would like to retain them since we have a
> emissions inspection here in this part of CO.  I also feel that I can
> sacrifice a little power for cleaner air, if I have to.

Hmm.  I think one of the reasons people rip out all of the
computer "B.S." is at least in part because they either don't understand
how it works (and how it can help), and partly because it is a little bit
easier to do a swap (particuarly with an older engine) minus the computer
stuff.  I've done a swap with a '69 motor into an '84 car, and I just left
all the computer stuff off (just like everbody else, I guess!)  The only
reason I did though, was that most of it was already disconnected, and
the
wire connectors were all melted since the last owner did'nt even try to
keep the mass of wire from the exhaust manifolds.  I think the ECM was
also fried since it would'nt even go into diagnostic mode.  I would have
liked to hook it all back up, but the cost of a new computer and wire
harness pretty much ruined that idea.  But, one thing to be aware of when
you leave the computer out of the equasion is that you will need a
non-computer carb and distributor, since the ECM controls advance and some
carburator functions on the pices that will come off the car. (Other
things like the starter, alternator, etc. seem to function independently
of the computer [at least in '84] FI models seem to have a much more
integrated electrical system.)

>
> Can the stock computer (maybe with a "chip") work reliably with a slightly
> modified 350?  I won't to build a 350 with a cam one or two steps "hotter"
> then the original long-duration cam that is in the car now.  That
shouldn't
> affect vacuum based controls, because a larger engine makes more vacuum (as
> long as you don't have too much duration in the cam).  Am I going down the
> right track or is my thinking off? (whoops I probably don't want to know)

From what I understand, the stock computer should work (even with
the stock chip) if you swap a 350 in place of the stock engine.  The only
difference it would make to the computer is in the carburator calibration
(more air=more fuel) and from what I've read the stock computers are able
to make this compensation without any problem.  As for a modified 350,
that might be another story.  If you keep it mild, the stock chip could
still probibly compensate for it, but if you go too wild with your cam,
the funky vacuum signal could make some problems (maybe) although I would
tend to think that would be more of a concern with FI engines than
carburated ones.  A cam only a couple steps hotter would probibly be ok.
I would probibly go with a performance chip anyway if
the budget allowed, since it would allow the car to take full advantage of
the bigger motor (better advance curve, etc.)  You might check with
Hypertech and Jet and see what they recomend.  But, there really should'nt
be any reason that such a swap would'nt work just fine.

>
> One last question:  does anyone know a place that can rebuild an electronic
> Quadra-jet correctly?

Despite what your Chilton manual says, you could probibly do it
yourself.  I've torn one of these down, and they really don't look that
bad.  If you're worried about it, you might look at some of the Rochester
books available and see just what is involved (or different from a
non-computer Q-Jet.)

Hope this is of some help!

Scott
1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 00:04:08 -0400 (EDT)
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: Re: A better mechanical fuel pump

i agree go electric, i may even have an extra block off for ya i made a few
extras.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 22:08:28 -0600
From: "Travis Adams" <cashmore@imt.net>
Subject: Dash Pad Price?

I am looking for a fair price figure on a 65 442 dash pad.  It is in
excellent condition according to seller.  He said make an offer.  Keep me
from insulting this guy please.

Travis Adams
65 442 post

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 00:02:23 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: OAI Hoods

tgstoner@umich.edu wrote:
>
> All this talk about difficulty finding OAI hoods at any price, and the
> astronomical prices asked for the ones which are to be found, makes me
> wonder how difficult it would be to find proper manufacturers for the
> various required pieces and just have a couple hundred of them built.

Tom,  you are right.  But you gotta make sure the market is there.
Right now, myself and another 69 H/O owner are looking into re-popping
the mirror gaskets for the strange looking mirrors.  Expensive
proposition, but not unreachable.  Again, market???  If only two people
want them, then it would be hard to justify a large outlay.

With the hoods, it may be easier, albeit more expensive by far, to get
the market wanting them.  If someone could pull this off, for as much or
less than the current market price for an original........you will be
famed....

It reminds me of the time I was at the Olds dealer a long time ago...71
OAI hood?  That will run you 279.00 + tax... OUCH!  Too expensive for a
hood, I thought.......those were the days.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 22:15:51 -0600 (CST)
From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Subject: Re: Twin batteries

On Mon, 15 Sep 1997 RCKTPWR@aol.com wrote:

> ..............-42.......nj doesnt seem to bad at
> all,......-42???????!!!!!!!!!!
>
Yes, last winter I ran a '75 Impala, 350, with a 550 CA battery, and we
had -42 to -44 celcius every morning, plus wind, warming up maybe 3
degrees all day.  That poor CH**vy would hardly even run the headlights
with such a battery, let alone start! (BTW, I bought the Impala when I
crashed my olds, as described on my homepage under Dill-Pickle).

But, everyone will be happy to know, with a real battery, my mom's 78 88
DOESN'T have a block heater, and always starts!

I was thinking, since early 80's diesels all ran 2 battery's, with no
switches, WHY NOT a car?????

Still planning.....

...............self-promo sig file Version 2.2...............
Eric Aksomitis:
Virtual Junkyard: Current count -> 5 vehicles
Oldsmobile Index: Current Count -> 8 vehicles
http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/       mailto:aksomi@cs.uregina.ca
Last update: 970912
..............................................................

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 19:14:30 -0500
From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Subject: Re: Octane Ratings

Brad Bowles wrote:
>
> >From what I know, The higher the octane rating of gas, the more
> resistance it has to burn.  But does higher octane burn quicker/more
> efficiently that low octane in equal conditions?
>
>         I am asking this because I have a very low compression 455.  With 
high
> compression, you are supposed to run high octane to prevent
> pre-detonation.  So with low compression, would it be easier for the car
> to spark low octane, thus giving me a more efficient and powerful
> engine?
>
> Thanks
> Brad
> 70 442

If you want to know more about octane and fuel chemistry than anyone has
a right to know, check out this FAQ I found:

http://www.wwnet.com/~felder/fuel.html

Danny

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 01:05:53 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <grpruett@vt.edu>
Subject: Any T-top advice?

Since I've never owned a T-top car before I'd like to ask for any info
on how to maintain the seals in my newly acquired`80 Cutlass.  The top
appears to leak :( but the seals are intact and still pretty supple.
Allthough at the same time they seem kinda flat.

From what I can tell, there's a main seal that has inside and outside
"lips" that form a  "gutter" between them.  Then there appears to be a
smaller seal on the inside edge of the t-top opening, I think it's
windlace.  It's aged and chewed up pretty bad.  There is another seal
right next to it, in better shape, that looks an awful lot like
household door weatherstrip.  I'm sure a previous owner stuck that on
when the originals started giving way.

I cleaned and soaked the seals liberally with armorall and left the
glass out to try and let them de-compress for awhile.  Does anyone have
a method for rejuvenating the seals?  Is there a specific rubber
treatment product that works best?  I found a lot of pine needles, dirt,
and general goop in the gutter so I'm hoping that's the source of the
leak(s).

Do the T-tops have any drain tubes?  If they do is there a good way to
make sure they're clear?  The tops don't seem to fit very tighly.  The
can be jiggled a little after they're latched down, is that normal?  I
can see how to adjust the tops to latch down tighter but I don't know if
they'll adjust down enough.

Well enough questions for now.  Any info/advice/experience is greatly
appreciated.

Thanks

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 00:50:37 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Dash Pad Price?

At 10:08 PM 9/15/97 -0600, you wrote:
>I am looking for a fair price figure on a 65 442 dash pad.  It is in
>excellent condition according to seller.  He said make an offer.  Keep me
>from insulting this guy please.
>
>Travis Adams
>65 442 post
>
Travis

        The going market puts them in the $150-200 price range for a mint
one. This to me is a little steep unless it's NOS. A very nice one should be
worth the neighborhood of $100.00. You may get it for less or you may pay
more. Just remember the saying. It's only worth what someone is willing to
pay for it.
My $.02.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 23:12:16 -0600 (MDT)
From: bhorn@tnc.com (Beverley Horn)
Subject: Re: OAI Hoods

>
>All this talk about difficulty finding OAI hoods at any price, and the
>astronomical prices asked for the ones which are to be found, makes me
>wonder how difficult it would be to find proper manufacturers for the
>various required pieces and just have a couple hundred of them built.
>Almost without a doubt, General Motors didn't actually produce the
>fiberglass piece for the originals, and if that's true the original
>manufacturer might still be out there (around Lansing?) and able to make
>them again.  Lock pins and the associated hardware probably came from one
>or more small supplier shops as well, and could once again just as easily.
>That only leaves the steel reinforcement framework and hinge assemblies,
>which might have been stamped by Fisher Body, or someone else.  Granted, it
>wouldn't be inexpensive to have a die made which would stamp out duplicate
>frameworks for these hoods, but if that cost were divided between two
>hundred or more hoods, it might not be unreasonable.  If not so perfect
>originals are worth prices approaching $1000, what would a new exact
>duplicate be worth?  Just wondering out loud . . .
>
>Tom Stoner
>Oldsmobile Club of America ª3943
>Ann Arbor, MI
>tgstoner@umich.edu
>
>
        I have a 1970 Rallye 350 and I am missing a chrome hood lock on one
side. Does anyone know where I could pick one, or a couple of them up? How
much would they be?

        Shayne Horn
        1970 Rallye450
        1985 442

------------------------------

Date: 15 Sep 1997 17:32:45 -0700
From: "Mike Gardner" <Mike_Gardner@latgqmg.sps.mot.com>
Subject: Re: 455 Motors 4-Sale

                      RE>>455 Motors 4-Sale                        9/15/97

Ditto Joe.  Please e-mail me the same info.
Thanks, Mike (1970 455 Delta 88 conv.)
axsm10@email.mot.com

- --------------------------------------
Date: 9/15/97 7:00 AM
To: Mike Gardner
From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
On Mon, 15 Sep 1997, Joe Artwell wrote:

> If anyone is intereseted my neighbor is selling 3 Olds 455 motors.
> One is only a block and the other two are nearly complete. ***$200.00***
> for all three. I now one is a 72 motor. Not sure about the other two. I
> can find out more info if anyone is interested. They are in Medina,
> Ohio. I don't know if you can ship something like this.
>                               Joe
>
> 1971 442.
>
I am interested .. Please e-mail me direct with as much information as
you can obtain.  I can hardly believe that motors "nearly complete"
(whatever that means) are going to be sold for $200.00.  Thanks for the
info.

Al

Al Varhus Columbus, Ohio http://www.infinet.com/~avar



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 01:25:22 -0400
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: Re: OAI Hoods

> All this talk about difficulty finding OAI hoods at any price, and the
> astronomical prices asked for the ones which are to be found, makes me
> wonder how difficult it would be to find proper manufacturers for the
> various required pieces and just have a couple hundred of them built.
>

The problem with this idea and others is that not enough of the cars
are still around. You would have to get deposits and then come up with
around
$10,000 start up money. If you can guarantee that I would double any money
I invest, let me know. I always have about $1000.00 around to invest.

The General


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 02:19:39 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Terry's 68 455

Chris Brown Witt wrote:
>
> hello all I have a 68 Olds with a 455 in it. It has the c heads. This is
> about all I know about it. I think it is the higher compression engine.
> I don't have any specs and was wondering if anyone could guess the hp or
> thell me how to figure it out without a dyno?
>
> thanks for the info yes it has that gas cap. I have set the timing
> retarded to run lower octane gas. Would a different cam up the hp?
>
> Terry Teague
> 68 Delta Custom
> ============
>
> C heads cam on ALL 67-8-9 big blocks, regardless of CRatio. [Well, not *all*,
> but let's talk non-W cars, non-H/O, run-o-the-mill cars...] S'far as I know,
in > '68, almost all 2V motors were LC, defined as 9.0:1 back then, and the 4V 
>
motors were HC at 10.25:1 nominal. > > The gas cap clinches it. Use high
octane, advance the spark. Tends to overheat > during idling otherwise. Has way
more cajones with proper fuel & spark advance. > -- > Chris  B. Witt > *the*
Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442... >
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu Chris,

My 69 S conv has a 350 4-bbl 4-spd posi (I think, been a while since I
ran it hard enough to find out) with the cap you guys are talking about
here.  Does that tell you anything about the hp rating of this
particular engine?  I know it did not like anything under 100 octane
back in the 70s when it was driven as it would ping, etc.  I believe the
engine to be factory stock as I have owned this car since 1978.  Just
curious about the motor.  Any info appreciated.

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, Ky

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 11:12:53 +0200
From: "archy van wely" <usicon@pi.net>
Subject: rebuilding olds 403

At the moment I am rebuilding an olds 403 and I wonder how to make it
faster/stronger.
If possible I want to make it  turn about 8/9000 rpm.
What must I change from the original to accomplish that.
Thanks! archy
usicon@pi.net The Netherlands

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 08:12:53 -0400
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: RE: OAI Hoods

Year One and Brothers has them for around $50 set. USA Parts has them
for 25.73 ea.

Year One 1-800-950-9503
Brothers   1-800-442-7278
USA Parts 1-800-872-2013

Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the....Past

-----Original Message-----
From:bhorn@tnc.com [SMTP:bhorn@tnc.com]
Sent:Tuesday, September 16, 1997 1:12 AM
To:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:Re: OAI Hoods

>
>All this talk about difficulty finding OAI hoods at any price,
and the
>astronomical prices asked for the ones which are to be found,
makes me
>wonder how difficult it would be to find proper manufacturers
for the
>various required pieces and just have a couple hundred of them
built.
>Almost without a doubt, General Motors didn't actually produce
the
>fiberglass piece for the originals, and if that's true the
original
>manufacturer might still be out there (around Lansing?) and
able to make
>them again.  Lock pins and the associated hardware probably
came from one
>or more small supplier shops as well, and could once again just
as easily.
>That only leaves the steel reinforcement framework and hinge
assemblies,
>which might have been stamped by Fisher Body, or someone else.
Granted, it
>wouldn't be inexpensive to have a die made which would stamp
out duplicate
>frameworks for these hoods, but if that cost were divided
between two
>hundred or more hoods, it might not be unreasonable.  If not so
perfect
>originals are worth prices approaching $1000, what would a new
exact
>duplicate be worth?  Just wondering out loud . . .
>
>Tom Stoner
>Oldsmobile Club of America ª3943
>Ann Arbor, MI
>tgstoner@umich.edu
>
>
        I have a 1970 Rallye 350 and I am missing a chrome hood
lock on one
side. Does anyone know where I could pick one, or a couple of
them up? How
much would they be?

        Shayne Horn
        1970 Rallye450
        1985 442

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª849
********************************
