To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #856


oldsmobile-digest      Friday, September 19 1997      Volume 01 : Number 856



qjet sec AV
fan clutch leak
Re: Sport Wheel Goo
Re: Ch**y Transmission Swap
TEST-do not read
oldsmobile-digest V1 ª854
Sorry for bandwith
Re: Tech Question
Re: HEI Conversion
please remove
Re: how to bring back that gold shine
Re: 400\4sp  gold shine
Re: Sport Wheel
address
Re: Sport Wheel
Re: MCC on-line voting(olds related)
Re: Speed Racer
aol blows, need help
Re: Drving experience..the imp ss driver....reply!!
Re: Tech Question
Re: Speed Racer
Re: TicTocTac
Re: aol blows, need help
Re: Speed Racer
FS: 69 Cutlass Conv Trunk Lid
Re: how to bring back that gold shine
Re: 400\4sp  gold shine
Re: aol blows, need help
Re: 400\4sp  gold shine
Re: Ch**y Transmission Swap
Re: HEI Conversion
RE: 400\4sp  gold shine
Re: 400 vs. 425 vs. 455
Re: MCC on-line voting(olds related)
Whats Up with the List
Re: Speed Racer
Re: HEI Conversion
Tail Light Problem
Re: 400\4sp  gold shine
Re: Speed Racer
Re: Tail Light Problem
Gold shine thanks
Re: The Whiners
Re: Reving the Olds 403.....2
Re: fan clutch leak
Re: Tail Light Problem
Repair info for Tic-Toc-Tachs
Re: Tail Light Problem
Re: aol blows, need help
Re: Speed Racer
Re: fan clutch leak
Re: aol blows, need help
RE: Tail Light Problem
Re: Speed Racer
Re: Sport Wheel
RE: aol blows, need help
Re: The Whiners
Re: Ch**y Transmission Swap

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 23:48:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: qjet sec AV

BTW, Chris Witt if you're reading this, can you please explain more about that
stop that prevents the secondaries from opening fully on some carbs?  How do we
tell if it's there, and how can it be removed/fixed?
================

Easy- open the carb all the way, I apply a tensile force to the actuating
cable. Holding the carb open, with choke off, open the secondary air valve with
another hand. You *do* have 3 hands, right? If it opens more or less all the
way, fine, if not, it'll stop about halfway open, maybe 45 to 60 degrees open.
Close examination will reveal that the item preventing further motion is the
little bracket mounted on the RH end of the shaft. [pass. side]
  Modify this by suitable method... Dremel, hacksaw, file, new carb air horn
piece, whatever.

- --
Chris  B. Witt
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 00:06:42 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: fan clutch leak

After the wife and I returned home from our 2 week vacation, I
anxiously uncovered the car and AAHHH!  There was a small puddle a
little bigger than a dollar piece.  The fluid was unusual, it was kind
of sticky, had no odor and was bluish/gray in color.  I then discovered
another small puddle on the bottom of the fan shroud.

So, I'm assuming it's fluid from the fan clutch.  Since I bought the
car in June, this is the longest it has sat without driving it, (2
weeks).

I drive it alot, put on almost 4,000 miles since June 2, 1997.

Any help on this one?  If it's still leaking, it's a slow one!  Need I
worry?  Never delt with a fan clutch before.  Thanks for any help.

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 23:48:49 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mancinj@aol.com
Subject: Re: Sport Wheel Goo

Rick-
The sport wheel on my '72 H/O did exactly the same thing. I don't have a
freakin' clue what the problem is other than maybe the plastics reacting with
the atmosphere. About once a week, though, I get a soapy, warm rag, and give
it a good, vigorous scrubbing. That seems to hold it for a while.

Anybody else got any info on this?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 00:08:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: STemple909@aol.com
Subject: Re: Ch**y Transmission Swap

Greetings List,

Sorry to take up bandwidth but I have a minor non-olds problem. The
TH-700-R-4 in my wife's 85 S-10 Blazer went South. I have found a Mid 80's
Chevy conversion van with a 350 /TH-400. My question is: Will the 400 bolt up
in place of the 700-R-4 (minus "massaging" the tunnel, modification to the
drive shaft, etc)? The engine in it for now is a 2.8L V-6. After rebuild the
350 will go in it but will the 2.8/400 combo work for now? I have to get the
wife on the road so my 72 Cutlass "S" can stay parked long enough for me to
work on it some more. Thanks in advance everybody, all replies are
appreciated.

Shawn L. Temple
72 Cutlass "S" (455/TH-400) "Passes Everything But A Gas Station"
Birmingham, AL

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 00:12:59 -0400 (EDT)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: TEST-do not read

testing

------------------------------

Date: 18 Sep 1997 20:33:28 PST
From: mjones@dragon.gleep.com
Subject: oldsmobile-digest V1 ª854

qL><<< This message is part 15 of a previous message >>>


------------------------------

Date: 18 Sep 1997 20:34:42 PST
From: mjones@dragon.gleep.com
Subject: Sorry for bandwith

I slipped and accident saved that email containing that UUEncoded
message of whoevers that gave me 11 extra mails to delete

Sorry

Mike Jones
'78 Delta 88 2dr

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 19:04:41 -0500
From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Subject: Re: Tech Question

You just have to
> make DARN sure you have all the pieces before you start, and the MAIN
> thing is to either get a 4 speed crank installed or take yours out and
> get the pilot hole drilled (don't even think about leaving it in the car
> to do that!  Probably can be done, but I wouldn't trust the accuracy.)
>
> Or trade all that for an OW or OH (69 only, don't get the 68 OH) TH400
> trans.
>
> Mike Rothe

Most of the 455 cranks I've dealt with have a conical recess with a
shoulder. I got a pilot bearing from Mondello that converts non 4 spd
cranks.

Danny

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 00:26:59 -0400 (EDT)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: HEI Conversion

In a message dated 97-09-18 22:27:22 EDT, you write:

<< I've done all of mine by getting swap meet units and rebuilding them with
 MSD coil, module, cap, rotor, and button.  I always put an adjustable vacuum
 advance unit on there too (Crane was what I used last time).

 I'm not sure about the specs on the MSD coils, but the HEI I put in my
 hardtop '68 would start the car right up during Iowa winters.  No lack of
 spark there :)


 Bob
 -----------------------------------------------------------------
  Robert J. Lavey      >>

Hey Bob, just curious how much you have in one when its done?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 00:35:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: Yorcoy@aol.com
Subject: please remove

Thanks for all the info, changing address, talk to you in the future.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 00:37:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: Re: how to bring back that gold shine

To make it look that good you need to have it plated. Check in Hemmings there
are a bunch of places that will do it. The only thing is it has to be taken
apart, You cant send anything that will not survive getting dipped in liquid.
Good luck
 Joe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 23:23:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: "H. Karamanos" <hikara@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: 400\4sp  gold shine

dick miller makes a push in pilot bushing for undrilled cranks wanting a
4/sp.
easrwood sells a kit to redo your parts in all the factory finishes

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 00:51:47 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Sport Wheel

mefco@sprynet.com wrote:
>
> Rick,
> You may be interested in knowing about the September, 1970, volume 20, number
12 > Oldsmobile service guild product training manual, there is a short 
message >
titled, Steering Wheel Rim "Sweat" condition. It reads as follows: > When a 
1970
Oldsmobile has been parked for a considerable period of time in the > hot sun
with the windows rolled up, the in-car temperatures may become high > enough to
cause the steering wheel to "sweat". This condition results in the > steering
wheel having a slippery, oily feeling and is caused by beads of > plasticizer
escaping from the plastic wheel. This action may be likened to the > solvents
escaping from the finish of a newly painted car. > mefco@sprynet.com

Also, I'd imagine years of soaking up dirty sweat (well, that ~is~ what
it is;) has an affect as well.  On a hot day it will give some back...
- --

             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
             Box 524               | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Sidney, Montana 59270 | http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "TRBO LVR" (Maybe???:)| '83 Turbo Regal
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 02:59:13 -0400
From: "Terry & Tammy" <dawgs@conninc.com>
Subject: address

hello could ya'll send me the address to unscribe to the list I hav e
lost it and I am getting amarried Saturdauy and will be gone for awhile
Thanks

Terry Teague
68 Delta Custom

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 03:27:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: Sport Wheel

sounds like the work of SATAN to me, quick, clean it with holy
water!!!!!!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 03:31:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: MCC on-line voting(olds related)

Uh, hello, whats MCC????

bernie

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 03:35:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: Speed Racer

I remember, but would have drove my MACH 1 !!!!!!!!!! 69, 390 4spd

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 03:51:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: aol blows, need help

anyone suggest a better isp than aol, cant use at night 6pm to 10pm, constant
errors when i dont do anything, anyone have a good provider to reccomend?

thanks, bernie
cranford nj

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 03:59:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: Drving experience..the imp ss driver....reply!!

just a little humor there my oldsmobuddy........but gordon??????never!!!!!!!
go 88 and 99!!!
 I was a kulwicki fan. I wish olds would go back to nascar or nhra

bernie  cranford nj
to much abuse growing up from chevy owners about my 66 6cyl stang, first olds
came in 88, 67 f-85, 330 2bl, 3-on-the-tree and p/s, oh, and tinted
windshield. I bought from orig owners daughter, who bought it in walnut creek
ca............
>>>>and thats my oldsmostory of the day.......

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 06:12:31 -0400
From: Al Barlow <iamoz@ime.net>
Subject: Re: Tech Question

At 11:51 PM 9/18/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Hey al, same bell housing for big or small block. And your 72 cutlass should
>have the frame drilled in several places so its easy to move the cross member
>to the desired position. The other question is what kind of tranny do you
>have. And what kind of 4spd are you getting . The yoke on your drive shaft
>maybe different but easily changed. There are 2 different sizes one will fit
>a tubo350(same as most 4spds) and the other a turbo 400. Also you need to
>look into lengths of each tranny. May need a different driveshaft all
>together. But thats easy to once you determine how much longer or shorter you
>need just take the old one and a bone yard can give you one longer or
>shorter, usually about $50. Dont have the shaft cut and rebalenced is to much
>$. Off the top of my head i believe muncie M20,M21 are 350 yokes and a ST10
>is 400 yoke. Good luck
>joe
>
>Joe,
Thanks for the advice. It seems a little more complicated than I originally
thought but not impossible.

Al Barlow
1971 442 convertible

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 06:58:21 -0400 (EDT)
From: AllNiteLng@aol.com
Subject: Re: Speed Racer

One of the buttons was for a set of wings that came out on either side of the
car

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 07:34:07 -0400
From: Joseph Gambaccini <jgambaccini@ci.richmond.va.us>
Subject: Re: TicTocTac

DROLDS350@aol.com wrote:

> Hello, My 1970 has RallyPac Gauges and a tictoctac. The clock in it
> doesn't
> work. My question is has anyone ever had theres made to quartz and is
> it hard
> to do? I have heard that there are kits available. Can you also
> reccommend
> anybody? any help on this topic would be greatly appreciated!
> Jim
> 70 Cutlass W31

jim:

i got a quartz conversion kit from clock doc for my olds. tach. about 5
years ago.  it's still keeping great time!!!  back then it was about $35
(no video was included - if you can't do this job without the video then
you need to find another hobby).   it was NOT hard to do.  i'd highly
recommend it.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 08:25:01 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: aol blows, need help

I've had great luck with sprynet.  Call 1-800-sprynet for free cd software.
You also get 5mb of space for a personal web site.  $19.95 per month for
unlimited access.

This is another cheap one but they don't have a local access ª for me :(
Flashnet 1-800-flash20.  You have to pay for a full year, but it's only like
$8.95 for unlimited access.

I know how you feel, I gave up on "Am. On Hold" a long time ago.  Can't even
imagine how bad it must be now!

Good luck

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

============================================================================
On Fri, 19 Sep 1997, RCKTPWR@aol.com wrote:
>anyone suggest a better isp than aol, cant use at night 6pm to 10pm, constant
>errors when i dont do anything, anyone have a good provider to reccomend?
>
>thanks, bernie
>cranford nj
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 03:45:36 -0700
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Speed Racer

Here is what those buttons did:

A: release power boosters
B: All-terrain belted tires.  Auxiliary motors offer 5,000 hp to
   each wheel when the special tires are used.
C: fires rotary saws out the front end of the car.  For slicing
   through obstacles
D: Makes a water-tight seal around the cockpit.  It also makes it
   bullet and crash proof.
E: Control for special illumination enabling Speed to see further and
   more clearly than with ordinary headlights. Can be traversed
   singularly or in tandem.
F: Used when Mach Five is underwater. Cockpit is supplied with
   oxygen (1/2 hour supply) and then a periscope is raised to scan
   the surface. Everything that is seen is relayed down to Speed by
   television.
G: Releases a homing robot which can carry pictures or tape-recorded
   messages to whomever and wherever Speed wants to send them. When
   pushed, the button also opens a panel on the Mach Five's console
   revealing two rocker buttons, a joystick to control the robot's
   flight, and a small H button. The H sends the homing robot to the
   Racer family's home.

So there it is folks.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 08:16:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: Frank Iezzi <fiezzi@freenet.columbus.oh.us>
Subject: FS: 69 Cutlass Conv Trunk Lid

NOS 69 convertible Trunk lid for sale $450 (obo) OR TRADE
for GM 69 Cutlass 2dr 1/4 panels. Lid is still wrapped, some
minor scratches/dings, been in a body shop.
E-mail with questions - pick up or delivery possible in Central OH
Thanks
Frank Iezzi
Columbus OH

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 08:48:06 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: how to bring back that gold shine

Thanks Joe, it's already apart & ready to dip.

RC

On Fri, 19 Sep 1997, AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com wrote:
>To make it look that good you need to have it plated. Check in Hemmings there
>are a bunch of places that will do it. The only thing is it has to be taken
>apart, You cant send anything that will not survive getting dipped in liquid.
>Good luck
> Joe
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 08:50:39 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: 400\4sp  gold shine

was that "Eastwood"?  If so do you have a phone ª for them?  Also what
type of plating this called?  I'd like to check my area first.

Thanks,

RC Hellebuyck



On Thu, 18 Sep 1997, "H. Karamanos" <hikara@u.washington.edu> wrote:
>dick miller makes a push in pilot bushing for undrilled cranks wanting a
>4/sp.
>easrwood sells a kit to redo your parts in all the factory finishes
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 08:00:21 -0500
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: aol blows, need help

- ----------
> From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
> anyone suggest a better isp than aol, cant use at night 6pm to 10pm,
constant
> errors when i dont do anything, anyone have a good provider to reccomend?
>
> thanks, bernie
> cranford nj

Try a local isp (if available). I tried AOL, Prodigy, MSN and none of them
have as good customer support as a local isp.

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 08:04:47 -0500
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: 400\4sp  gold shine

- ----------
> From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
>
> was that "Eastwood"?  If so do you have a phone ª for them?  Also what
> type of plating this called?  I'd like to check my area first.
>
> Thanks,
>
> RC Hellebuyck

http://www.eastwoodco.com

1-800-345-1178

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 08:10:14 -0500
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: Ch**y Transmission Swap

- ----------
> From: STemple909@aol.com
> Greetings List,
>
> Sorry to take up bandwidth but I have a minor non-olds problem. The
> TH-700-R-4 in my wife's 85 S-10 Blazer went South. I have found a Mid
80's
> Chevy conversion van with a 350 /TH-400. My question is: Will the 400
bolt up
> in place of the 700-R-4 (minus "massaging" the tunnel, modification to
the
> drive shaft, etc)? The engine in it for now is a 2.8L V-6.
> Shawn L. Temple
> 72 Cutlass "S" (455/TH-400) "Passes Everything But A Gas Station"
> Birmingham, AL

I think the 2.8 used a completely different bellhousing than the standard
Chevy.

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 10:09:09 -0300
From: "Robert J. Lavey" <rjlavey@rmci.net>
Subject: Re: HEI Conversion

At 12:26 AM 9/19/97 -0400, you wrote:
>In a message dated 97-09-18 22:27:22 EDT, you write:
>
><< I've done all of mine by getting swap meet units and rebuilding them with
> MSD coil, module, cap, rotor, and button.  I always put an adjustable vacuum
> advance unit on there too (Crane was what I used last time).
> Bob
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>  Robert J. Lavey      >>
>
>Hey Bob, just curious how much you have in one when its done?
>

I happen to have an invoice from MSD for the parts in my '68 442 convertible:
  coil:                     66.90
  module:                   76.00
  low resistance bushing:    8.60
  cap:                      16.00
  rotor:                     4.30

Then I got the vacuum advance unit and an MSD wire set from Summit; that was
about $75.00.  So, with the price of the HEI unit itself, it totals nearly 
$300.
There are probably (ok, certainly!) cheaper ways of going, but I have had
real good success.  YMMV.

Bob
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Robert J. Lavey                         email: rjlavey@rmci.net
 13243 W. Dahlia Dr.                     Home:  (208) 939-5418
 Boise, ID  83713-1302                   Fax:   (208) 939-5452
- -----------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 09:10:09 -0400
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: RE: 400\4sp  gold shine

On Friday, September 19, 1997 9:05 AM, Daren & Laurie Hendley
[SMTP:daren@revealed.net] wrote:
>
>
> ----------
> > From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
> >
> > was that "Eastwood"?  If so do you have a phone ª for them?  Also
what
> > type of plating this called?  I'd like to check my area first.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > RC Hellebuyck
>
> http://www.eastwoodco.com
>
> 1-800-345-1178
>
> Daren

Eastwood's sells a 4 step kit.

Step 1: You spray the piece with base coat silver.

Step 2: Spray the piece with a mist coat of yellow tint.

Step 3: Spray a mist of orange tint.

Step 4: Spray a mist coat green tint.


It sells for $32.99 (1902Z Golden Cad System)

I have not used it, but have been interested in trying it. Has anyone on
the list used it?

Eastwood also has a web site at:

http://www.eastwoodco.com

They sell  a lot of unique products for the restorer.


Bobby

70 442

Escape Back to the...Past

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 08:55:11 -0500
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: 400 vs. 425 vs. 455

- ----------
> From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
> > > Which makes the best bracket motor? Any ideas out there?
> >
> The 455.  I say this ONLY because if you lunch one, they are easier to
> find.  Leave those 400/425s to the guys who need them to restore.  Ok,
> that may be a little prejudice, but the 400 early blocks were probably
> the fastest revving son of a gun, so if you had a light car, you could
> go in a hurry.  But it depends on what you will do with it.  There is no
> replacement for displacement.  If you are running a heavy car, the 455
> rod angles are best suited to twist a fat pig off the line, but if you
> are light, you can afford to spin up faster.  Tough call.  455 parts are
> "plentiful" compared to early 400/425 parts.  Stay away from that
> long-stroke-455-wanna-be late 400 though.  Good engine for street, but
> not so great at the drags, compared to the early 400.
>
> Mike Rothe

I would say the same. I was just trying to get an idea from the person that
ask this question what they had in mind.

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 07:46:43 -0600
From: Terrance Rohner <tthiel@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: MCC on-line voting(olds related)

RCKTPWR@aol.com wrote:
>
> Uh, hello, whats MCC????
>
> bernie
It's Mt Classic Car, A television on TNN on Saturday's & Sunday's.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 09:46:58 +0000
From: "Rick" <richardc@equitrac.com>
Subject: Whats Up with the List

I have not been receiving any EMAIL for a week and a 1/2 now is
there something wrong???

Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 09:48:57 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Speed Racer

mrada wrote:
>
> Here is what those buttons did:
>
Good God Chris, you ARE bored at work...

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 06:54:33 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: HEI Conversion

Robert J. Lavey wrote:

> There are probably (ok, certainly!) cheaper ways of going, but I have had
> real good success.  YMMV.

YMMV?

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 08:54:44 -0500
From: dlwels@juno.com (David L. Welsh)
Subject: Tail Light Problem

I recently purchased a 69 Cutlass Supreme (Great Car!) for my 16 year old
son. It needs some body work, but the 350 4 barrel runs great. We put a
new ignition switch in and now have a problem with the tail lights.
Everything works, except that the right directional lights, front and
rear, come on with the brake lights.  The right blinker stops operating
when you hit the brakes also.  Any ideas what I need to look for?

This listing is great.  I'm sure I'll be looking for advice on many
issues before our father, son project is done.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 10:19:18 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: 400\4sp  gold shine

Great!  Thanks for the info.

RC Hellebuyck


>http://www.eastwoodco.com
>
>1-800-345-1178
>
>Daren
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 07:10:49 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Speed Racer

Mike Rothe wrote:
>
> Good God Chris, you ARE bored at work...

:-)

Chris

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 09:00:13 -0500
From: Shoe-Man <jd.schumacher@baylordallas.edu>
Subject: Re: Tail Light Problem

David L. Welsh wrote:

> when you hit the brakes also.

David,

I've had this trouble in a 71 S.  I replaced some 1157's and that's when
the trouble began.  After a week of trouble shooting, I found that one
of the bulbs was defected.  The low & high filiment leads comming from
low in the bulb socket were touching.  I replaced the bulb and the
problem was corrected.

Hope this helps.

- --
John "Shoe-Man" Schumacher
North Texas Olds Club ª25464 Dynamic 88
Dallas, Texas69 442
OCA ª02115174 Cutlass Supreme
mailto:jd.schumacher@baylordallas.edu

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 10:29:08 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Gold shine thanks

Thanks Bob.  Hope it's as easy as it sounds.  Has anyone tried this kit?

"Golden Cad" sounds exactly what I'm looking for.  Boy this lousy cruise
control is sure becoming expensive;

$50. for servo and rod (not bad price I think, good ol' Lansing show)
$25. for missing bracket
$35. for Golden Cad system
- --------------------------
$110. Wow! hope to God the damn transducer is ok $!$!$!$!$

RC (I only want my cruise to work) Hellebuyck

====================================================================
>Eastwood's sells a 4 step kit.
>
>It sells for $32.99 (1902Z Golden Cad System)
>
>I have not used it, but have been interested in trying it. Has anyone on
>the list used it?
>
>Eastwood also has a web site at:
>
>http://www.eastwoodco.com
>
>They sell  a lot of unique products for the restorer.
>
>
>Bobby
>
>70 442
>
>Escape Back to the...Past
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 09:23:42 -0500
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Subject: Re: The Whiners

>> (With that quiet exhaust, I can hear that distinctive
>> TH350 "whine" build up and shift into second now.....)
>
> You mean they all do that?  I thought it was just mine...

Yes! The modern machines sound too much like blenders. Our old
'69 Pontiac 350 had a great characteristic howl when it started
in the mornings on cold choke; you could always tell the 350 that
way, and tell whose Pontiac was stuck with an OHC6 instead. My
neighbor's old Ch*vy Nova would make a whoosing noise on hard
acceleration that sounded like a coffeemaker going into espresso
mode. And how about that tearing-its-guts-out noise of a MoPar
starter on a hemi? Painful to listen to that one. Then there's
my friend's '74 Cutlass with 455 and Flowmasters...  :-)

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 14:20:49 GMT
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Reving the Olds 403.....2

>What engine did the "8" heads come on anyway. Never seen that b-4, but i saw
>it on a 73 98 for sale--2-door, with a 403 in it.....just curious

The "8" heads came on all '73-'76 350's. Are you certain that the engine is
a 403, or does the owner just *think* it's a 403? The casting letter on the
block on the shelf behind the water pump would read "4A" or "4B", and
there'd be a big "403" cast into the side of the block, but that's difficult
to see, unless you crawl up under there and look next to the oil filter
mount. The casting behind the starter is impossible to see without the
engine out.

If it is in fact a 403 with the 350 heads, no big deal, though the valves
are going to be smaller. I'd be skeptical, though.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 10:29:45 -0400
From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: fan clutch leak

>After the wife and I returned home from our 2 week vacation, I
>anxiously uncovered the car and AAHHH!  There was a small puddle a
>little bigger than a dollar piece.  The fluid was unusual, it was kind
>of sticky, had no odor and was bluish/gray in color.  I then discovered
>another small puddle on the bottom of the fan shroud.

>So, I'm assuming it's fluid from the fan clutch.  Since I bought the
>car in June, this is the longest it has sat without driving it, (2
>.weeks).

Yes, the sticky fluid is almost certainly the silicone based fluid inside
the fan clutch.  I have recent experience with fan clutches--mine went out
the day after I got to Lansing.  I was calmly cruising downtown near the 
display
area for the curved dash cars when my temperature gauge shot up to around 200.
Normal for me is around 180 in town.  Stopped the car, sure enough the fan
spun freely, signifying that the clutch was not engaged.

This is an easy fix--any parts store will have replacement clutches, around
30$.  Replacement is a simple matter of removing a total of 8 bolts, 4 holding
the clutch to the fan, and 4 holding the clutch or fan to the water pump.
Took me about 30 minutes to do the fix, using 2 wrenches.  You don't have to
remove the fan shroud or anything else to do the fix.

Todd Morris
71 442

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 10:55:16 -0400
From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Subject: Re: Tail Light Problem

> I recently purchased a 69 Cutlass Supreme (Great Car!) for my 16 year old
> son. It needs some body work, but the 350 4 barrel runs great. We put a
> new ignition switch in and now have a problem with the tail lights.
> Everything works, except that the right directional lights, front and
> rear, come on with the brake lights.  The right blinker stops operating
> when you hit the brakes also.  Any ideas what I need to look for?

Definitely sounds like a short someplace across the tail light and
directional circuits.  I've seen this occur when a tail light bulb is
replaced.  You're sure it didn't happen before you replaced the ignition
switch?

Of course, having the switch in the column, you had to pull the
steering wheel and the turn signal switch to get to it, am I right?

That'd be the first place to look if it started happening after the
ign. switch replacement...

BTW, your son is very lucky that his Dad bought him a car of great
class for his first vehicle.  MY Dad got me (technically, he found it,
I paid for it) a rotted out '64 I-H Travel-All for $25 for my first "ride".



Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 11:23:59 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Repair info for Tic-Toc-Tachs

OK, I called all the ads in Hemmings;

Instrument Services, Inc.
800-558-2674

$44. for do-it-yourself quartz clock conversion
_________________________________________________

The Tach Man
800-327-8716 (Gary)

Approx. $160. to convert clock to quartz and calibrate tach.
no do-it-yourself kit
_____________________________________________________________

Clockdoc
800-256-5362 (Lee)

$59. for do-it-yourself quartz clock kit (no video) NO WARRANTY!
$97.50 for them to put it in

Approx. $125. - $175. to fix tach
____________________________________________________________

Bob's Speedometer (here in MI, LEE)
800-592-9673

$125. to do quartz clock conversion
no do-it-yourself kit

$75. "bench charge" plus parts to fix tach
___________________________________________________________

The Clockworks
800-398-3040 (only do clocks)

no do-it-yourself kits
$39.95 for NOS clock movement (for you original buffs!) + $6.00 for
return shipping.  18 month warranty.

$59.95 for quartz conversion + $6.00 for return shipping.  2 year
warranty. (add $10. if you send in the whole clock/tach unit.  I
recommend this!)
________________________________________________________________

JRs Restoration
800-533-0292
no do-it-yourself kits
$75. (includes return shipping) for quartz conversion, 1 year warranty
about a 2 week turn around time
_______________________________________________________________________

All STRESSED to be careful when disassembling the tach.  watch the
needle and there's a wire in side the tach which would cost big $$$ to
fix.  Plus the circuit board itself.  Clockdoc told me "anyone who has
any mechanics common sense, can do the quartz conversion if their
careful taking apart and putting the tach back together.

Myself, I think I'm going to go with clockworks, (since my tach is ok)
The $10. isn't worth me screwing up the tach. Plus you get a warranty.

Hope this helps you guys!

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 11:19:32 -0400
From: Joseph Gambaccini <jgambaccini@ci.richmond.va.us>
Subject: Re: Tail Light Problem

Timothy A. Churchill wrote:

> > I recently purchased a 69 Cutlass Supreme (Great Car!) for my 16
> year old
> > son. It needs some body work, but the 350 4 barrel runs great. We
> put a
> > new ignition switch in and now have a problem with the tail lights.
> > Everything works, except that the right directional lights, front
> and
> > rear, come on with the brake lights.  The right blinker stops
> operating
> > when you hit the brakes also.  Any ideas what I need to look for?
>
> Definitely sounds like a short someplace across the tail light and
> directional circuits.  I've seen this occur when a tail light bulb is
> replaced.  You're sure it didn't happen before you replaced the
> ignition
> switch?
>
> Of course, having the switch in the column, you had to pull the
> steering wheel and the turn signal switch to get to it, am I right?
>
> That'd be the first place to look if it started happening after the
> ign. switch replacement....
>
> BTW, your son is very lucky that his Dad bought him a car of great
> class for his first vehicle.  MY Dad got me (technically, he found it,
>
> I paid for it) a rotted out '64 I-H Travel-All for $25 for my first
> "ride"..
>
> Tim Churchill
> -------------
> '67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
> '89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
> '91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

gee, i guess i was neglected as a child.  when i turned 17, i bought my
first car, a '72 cutlass s from the original owner, back in '84, for
$800.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 11:20:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: aol blows, need help

In a message dated 97-09-19 08:18:59 EDT, you write:

<< I know how you feel, I gave up on "Am. On Hold" a long time ago.  Can't
even
 imagine how bad it must be now!

 Good luck

 RC Hellebuyck
 1971 4-4-2 covt.
  >>

Geez I wish I could get this mail to work right, oops, got dumped and lost
this
letter, oh well, where was I , took forever to get back on, busy signal, busy
signal,
etc, etc. Ok where was I, oops, bumped again, no wait, dumped the first time
and bumped the second, thats different stuff, ok , back to.....oh
yeah.....Hows
the AOL these days.....not bad really...........TIM

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 11:28:08 -0400 (EDT)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Speed Racer

In a message dated 97-09-19 08:21:34 EDT, you write:

<< Here is what those buttons did:

 A: release power boosters
 B: All-terrain belted tires.  Auxiliary motors offer 5,000 hp to
    each wheel when the special tires are used.
 C: fires rotary saws out the front end of the car.  For slicing
    through obstacles
 D: Makes a water-tight seal around the cockpit.  It also makes it
    bullet and crash proof.
 E: Control for special illumination enabling Speed to see further and
    more clearly than with ordinary headlights. Can be traversed
    singularly or in tandem.
 F: Used when Mach Five is underwater. Cockpit is supplied with
    oxygen (1/2 hour supply) and then a periscope is raised to scan
    the surface. Everything that is seen is relayed down to Speed by
    television.
 G: Releases a homing robot which can carry pictures or tape-recorded
    messages to whomever and wherever Speed wants to send them. When
    pushed, the button also opens a panel on the Mach Five's console
    revealing two rocker buttons, a joystick to control the robot's
    flight, and a small H button. The H sends the homing robot to the
    Racer family's home.

 So there it is folks.

 Chris Sparks
  >>
I recently found a 72 Cutlass Supreme convertible for a friend, its a red
car with white top and white interior.  It had a "Go Speed Racer" bumper
sticker on the back bumper......Chris......did you have something to do
with this??????

P.S> I REALLY hope these are facts that are written down and not
something that is committed to memory in such detail..:-))..TIM

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 11:41:03 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: fan clutch leak

Thanks Todd.  Finally!  A "real" quick and cheap fix!  By the way, my temp.
guage runs just below the middle mark, (on 80 degree day).  If the fan clutch
totally goes out, will the engine overheat, or just run a little hotter?

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 11:44:11 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: aol blows, need help

Wow! I guess I don't know how you feel!  Reduce your stress level and quit
America On Hold now!  :)

RC

>Geez I wish I could get this mail to work right, oops, got dumped and lost
>this
>letter, oh well, where was I , took forever to get back on, busy signal, busy
>signal,
>etc, etc. Ok where was I, oops, bumped again, no wait, dumped the first time
>and bumped the second, thats different stuff, ok , back to.....oh
>yeah.....Hows
>the AOL these days.....not bad really...........TIM
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 11:38:49 -0400
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: RE: Tail Light Problem

On Friday, September 19, 1997 10:55 AM, tchurchill@draper.com
[SMTP:tchurchill@draper.com] wrote:
>
> > I recently purchased a 69 Cutlass Supreme (Great Car!) for my 16
year old
> > son. It needs some body work, but the 350 4 barrel runs great. We
put a
> > new ignition switch in and now have a problem with the tail lights.
> > Everything works, except that the right directional lights, front
and
> > rear, come on with the brake lights.  The right blinker stops
operating
> > when you hit the brakes also.  Any ideas what I need to look for?
>
> Definitely sounds like a short someplace across the tail light and
> directional circuits.  I've seen this occur when a tail light bulb is
> replaced.  You're sure it didn't happen before you replaced the
ignition
> switch?
>
> Of course, having the switch in the column, you had to pull the
> steering wheel and the turn signal switch to get to it, am I right?
>
> That'd be the first place to look if it started happening after the
> ign. switch replacement...
>
> BTW, your son is very lucky that his Dad bought him a car of great
> class for his first vehicle.  MY Dad got me (technically, he found it,
> I paid for it) a rotted out '64 I-H Travel-All for $25 for my first
"ride".
>
>
>
> Tim Churchill
> -------------
> '67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
> '89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
> '91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

This also sounds like it could be a bad ground in one of the tail/turn
signal lights. They share the same circuit and if the bulb does not make
a good ground, the voltage feeds through the bulb to the other circuit.
Take out the bulb one at a time and see if the trouble goes away. If you
find one where the trouble goes away check the socket and ground. Rust
gets into the socket and the bulb doesn't get a good ground.


Bobby

70 442

Escape Back to the....Past

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 08:53:55 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Speed Racer

Cnvrtbl442@aol.com wrote:
>
> I recently found a 72 Cutlass Supreme convertible for a friend, its a red
> car with white top and white interior.  It had a "Go Speed Racer" bumper
> sticker on the back bumper......Chris......did you have something to do
> with this??????

:-) No I can't say that I did.

> P.S> I REALLY hope these are facts that are written down and not
> something that is committed to memory in such detail..:-))..TIM

Actually I cheated.  I found the information on the web.  The only
thing I have committed to memory in great detail is the theme from
Super Chicken (Bawk Ack!)

TGIF

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 12:04:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Sport Wheel

hi all,  listen about the steering wheel goo, a friend of mine who has a
uhpolstery shop told me a neat trick for them. he said to clean them real
good then apply baby oil on them, yep!, common ol baby oil,  i thought he was
pulling my leg but it it works!. at first it is (as expected) greasy, but
after a couple of coatings its soft , not greasy, and no goo!.   then an
ocassional rub down for maint.  he also told me not to use silicone on my
interior . the sun only dries it out and promotes cracking!, the baby oil
keeps it soft , doesn`t stain, and is a lot cheaper than armour-all . i put
some on an old dash pad from a salvage yard that was hard and faded looking .
soaked it down real good and let it set. after a couple of coats it looked
new again. installed it in my car,(a conv.) and now with occassinal wipe down
it still looks new,and is very soft. i did this car several years ago.
                                          hopes this helps, steven.
w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 12:00:32 -0400
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: RE: aol blows, need help

On Friday, September 19, 1997 11:44 AM, mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
[SMTP:mrhell@m1.sprynet.com] wrote:
> Wow! I guess I don't know how you feel!  Reduce your stress level and
quit
> America On Hold now!  :)
>
> RC
>
> >Geez I wish I could get this mail to work right, oops, got dumped and
lost
> >this
> >letter, oh well, where was I , took forever to get back on, busy
signal, busy
> >signal,
> >etc, etc. Ok where was I, oops, bumped again, no wait, dumped the
first time
> >and bumped the second, thats different stuff, ok , back to.....oh
> >yeah.....Hows
> >the AOL these days.....not bad really...........TIM
> >


I use GTE Net for my home service( I know you know why :-)) you can go
to their WEB site at:

http://www.gte.net/

and see what they have to offer. Go to Services and select the type of
service you want.

Bobby

70 442
Escape Back to the...Past

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 11:16:15 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: The Whiners

I agree! I hate how new cars sound, my 75 Olds 98 Regency has the
455, dual Exhaust, Glass Packs, love the roar it makes when it comes
to life and the "wub wub wub wub wub" it does at idle. :)


> From:           "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
> Subject:        Re: The Whiners
> Send reply to:  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

> >> (With that quiet exhaust, I can hear that distinctive
> >> TH350 "whine" build up and shift into second now.....)
> >
> > You mean they all do that?  I thought it was just mine...
>
> Yes! The modern machines sound too much like blenders. Our old
> '69 Pontiac 350 had a great characteristic howl when it started
> in the mornings on cold choke; you could always tell the 350 that
> way, and tell whose Pontiac was stuck with an OHC6 instead. My
> neighbor's old Ch*vy Nova would make a whoosing noise on hard
> acceleration that sounded like a coffeemaker going into espresso
> mode. And how about that tearing-its-guts-out noise of a MoPar
> starter on a hemi? Painful to listen to that one. Then there's
> my friend's '74 Cutlass with 455 and Flowmasters...  :-)
>
> Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
> Datalogics, Inc.
> 101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
> Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282
>
>
- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 11:22:24 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: Ch**y Transmission Swap

> Greetings List,
>
> Sorry to take up bandwidth but I have a minor non-olds problem. The
> TH-700-R-4 in my wife's 85 S-10 Blazer went South. I have found a Mid 80's
> Chevy conversion van with a 350 /TH-400. My question is: Will the 400 bolt up
> in place of the 700-R-4 (minus "massaging" the tunnel, modification to the
> drive shaft, etc)? The engine in it for now is a 2.8L V-6.

I believe the bolt patterns are different, unless the TH-400 is a
universal trainy, (where it will bolt up to Pontiac/Buick/Olds/Chevy,
these are rare though from my experience) I would think a TH-200
would have better luck since they were used extensivly with V6's and
V8's, thats my 2 cents anyway. Hope it helps.


 After rebuild the
> 350 will go in it but will the 2.8/400 combo work for now?

I think the TH-200 would be your best bet, but if some has done it, I
think that would be cool, I love how the TH-400's shift. :)


 I have to get the
> wife on the road so my 72 Cutlass "S" can stay parked long enough for me to
> work on it some more. Thanks in advance everybody, all replies are
> appreciated.
>
> Shawn L. Temple
> 72 Cutlass "S" (455/TH-400) "Passes Everything But A Gas Station"
> Birmingham, AL
>
- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª856
********************************
