To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #871


oldsmobile-digest      Friday, September 26 1997      Volume 01 : Number 871



Re: 72 W-30 vote and racing 1/4
72 442 back from trans shop
test
Re: Olds Alum. Heads - Update
Manual Transaxle Info
Re: Mondello?
unsubscribe olds
Re: not olds related
Re: Olds Alum. Heads - Update
please stop the e-mails
ANAL^H^H^H^H NAL Contact info.
Re: 72 W-30 vote and racing 1/4
Re: 67 425 block found and other junkyard stuff
Re: a mopar list like this one?
Shifter question
Re: 72 W-30 vote and racing 1/4
Re: 72 442 back from trans shop
Re: '64 Cutlass
'64 Jetstar value
Does duralube or slick 50 work?
Re: '70 VC Hinges
Re: Does duralube or slick 50 work?
Re: 72 W-30 vote
Re: Does duralube or slick 50 work?
Re: Racing
Re: Does duralube or slick 50 work?
Re: 400 vs. 425 vs. 455
Re: Does duralube or slick 50 work?
Re: Does duralube or slick 50 work?
Re: Racing
AGAIN: Re: a mopar list like this one?
Re: 400 vs. 425 vs. 455
Re: 455 heads....again.....
FS: Dual Gate and w/w moldings
Re: 455 heads....again.....
Re: 72 442 back from trans shop
Re: 400 vs. 425 vs. 455
RE: 72 W-30 vote and racing 1/4
RE: 1970 Paint Codes
RE: Does duralube or slick 50 work?
Re: Racing
Thanks about info on slick 50 & duralube
RE: Does duralube or slick 50 work?
I voted!
Hood ornaments
Re: FS: Dual Gate and w/w moldings
FS 72 H/O
Re: Pilot Bearing
RE: 72 W-30 vote
Re: I voted!
RE: Hood ornaments
Re: [Toro] Hello, hello... Is there anybody in there...?
RE: Hood ornaments

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 21:02:57 -0400
From: "John Richmond" <richmond@tir.com>
Subject: Re: 72 W-30 vote and racing 1/4

I just voted for Mark. Mark, that's a cool pic you submitted.
Oh, congratulations are in order for the 12teen 1/4.

John Richmond
richmond@tir.com
Warren, MI
72 442/455


> <<  Mark Prince's W-30 is posted in the "My Classic Car" phot contest for
> this
>  week.
>  http://www.myclassiccar.com/gallery/gallery.shtml
>   Let's all get out and vote to support our favorite cars (Olds
naturally),
>  and a real example in Mark's W-30.
>
>
> 1st run through 7th
> 60 ft                 E.T.                    MPH
> 1.870               12.447                 109.396
> 1.725               12.332                 109.329
> 1.930               12.512                 109.469
> 1.804               12.331                 109.653
> 1.708               12.183                 109.986
> 1.724               12.218                 109.671
> 1.718               12.191                 109.950
> Now I can say my car is a 12 teen racer.  And I am still using the
Quadujet
> and
> factory W-455 alum intake. .
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 21:12:22 -0400
From: "John Richmond" <richmond@tir.com>
Subject: 72 442 back from trans shop

Just got the 72 442 back from the trans shop. The thing
was leaking from every spot it could. Had a new modulator
and torque converter installed.

The car seems to run allot quieter and smoother. Which it
better after putting $550 into it.

Just one question. Before I took it in, the tires would squeal
when shifting from 1st to 2nd and now they don't. Is this
because of the new torque converter?


John Richmond
richmond@tir.com
Warren, MI
72 442/455

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 21:29:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Douglas J Harkema" <harkema2@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: test

test

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 21:19:34 -0400
From: "Eric T. Brubakken" <ebrubak@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Olds Alum. Heads - Update

Erik Nowacki wrote:
>
> >> New info from Edelbrock on their new Aluminum heads.
> >>
> >> "released approximately around the time of the SEMA Show which is
> >> November of this year"
> >>
> >> Hopefully more info to come...
>
> I'm going to SEMA.  It starts on November 4.  I'll look for the Olds heads
> and report back to the group.
>
> Erik Nowacki
> San Diego
> 72 Vista Cruiser
SEMA starts on November 4, but where will it be located?

Thanks

Eric

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 16:27:15 -0700
From: Gary Ohst <garyo@globalpac.com>
Subject: Manual Transaxle Info

List,

Anbody know the torque capacities of the 5-speed FWD manual transaxles
used in GM cars.  I have seen references to the following models:

HM282  76mm  GM/Getrag design made by Muncie
HM284  76mm  GM/Getrag design made by Getrag USA
NVT550 76mm  GM/Getrag design made by New Venture
Isuzu  76mm  Design & manufacture by Isuzu

I think they all use the small GM bellhousing pattern with the exception
of those found behind the Quad 4 motor.  I have heard the HM284 is the
strongest and it was available behind the 3.4 V6 in 91-93 Cutlass
Supremes.  Anybody know the torque capacities of these transaxles?

Gary

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 21:57:40 -0400
From: Doug and Carolyn <cale@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Mondello?

DocOlds723@aol.com wrote:
>
>   Years ago, I used to run Mondello parts, talked to him personally many
> times, spent a lot of money only to end up breaking many parts, going slower,
> spending more money.......... so on, so on.
>   It was after years of frustration that I learned that he didn't
> necessarilly have the answers, and he was merely a salesman, looking to earn
> a buck. After that I chose to go elsewhere, which has turned out to be a
> worthwhile choice.
>   I don't claim to have all the answers, but I have been able to put together
> a very reliable car that runs 10.teens that weighs 4000lbs. If you were in
> Lansing, chances are that you had seen it in the parade. It is the white and
> gold 1974 442.
>   My only suggestion is that you don't treat his literature as Bible, and
> seek other opinions. It pays off to research as many sources as possible.
I calculated that you would need 750 hp to turn 10. teens in a 4000
pound car ?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 19:54:39 -0400
From: "jake" <jake@ezo.net>
Subject: unsubscribe olds

unsubscribe olds-  e mail too overwhelming.   thanks

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 02:53:35 +0000
From: clarence wirtz <cw63nova@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: not olds related

At 11:57 PM 9/25/97 +0000, you wrote:
>deirdre. reilly wrote:
>>
>> Hey gang,
>>
>> I went to look at an '83 H/O last week, but the guy sold it before I could
>> make an offer on it.  Well I found out he is also selling a 1970 98 Royale
>> LS.  I have no interest in this car but I figured someone on the list might
>> be.  It's pretty mint, bought from the proverbial little old lady, and just
>> used by this guy occasionally.  It has a 455, 4bbl, power everthing, air,
>> 4drs, goldish/brown int/ext.  Approximately 86K miles. This car is
>> definately a clean original car and is NOT a rust bucket parts car.  Asking
>> price is $2700.
>> Call Steve at (201)652-4099, Northern NJ
>>
>> I have no vested interest in this, just happened to see it while looking at
>> another Olds.
>>
>> Bill Reilly
>> '85 Cutlass Supreme
>> '83 Cutlass Ciera
>lookig 4 1966 impala ss any 1 no of 1 please tell me
>

Dont know of a 66 super sport.  But I do have a 66 4dr parts car in the garage.
My son-in-law says he wants it but he is moving to KY so I dont know what he
will want to do. I will check with him and find out.  Its complete w/o motor.
May be a place to find some small parts once you find the SS.

Clarence
'86 Cutlass Supreme 4dr 307


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 23:12:16 -0400 (EDT)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds Alum. Heads - Update

In a message dated 97-09-25 21:38:58 EDT, you write:

<< > I'm going to SEMA.  It starts on November 4.  I'll look for the Olds
heads
 > and report back to the group.
 >
 > Erik Nowacki
 > San Diego
 > 72 Vista Cruiser
 SEMA starts on November 4, but where will it be located?

 Thanks
  >>
"LOST WAGES, NEVADA"......Viva Las Vegas

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 23:43:59 -0400 (EDT)
From: j gray <jgray@wwonline.com>
Subject: please stop the e-mails

Please stop the e-mails.  They are filling up my mailbox and I haven't got
the time to read them.

Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 23:40:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: ANAL^H^H^H^H NAL Contact info.

> National Automotive Lines
> 38 W. Franklin St.
> Shelbyville, IN 46176-1250
>
> 1-800-428-4300
> M-F 8-5:30 EST

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 23:48:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: 72 W-30 vote and racing 1/4

In a message dated 97-09-25 21:38:12 EDT, you write:

<< I just voted for Mark. Mark, that's a cool pic you submitted.
 Oh, congratulations are in order for the 12teen 1/4.

 John Richmond >>
Thanks John, I could use all the support I can get.  Just trying to make an
Oldsmobile a winner for the first time on MCC

W MACHINES (Mark Prince)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 20:51:20 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: 67 425 block found and other junkyard stuff

Tom -  could you check out the tail light's (I'd like both) and the trim on
the bottom of the trunk - the black centered piece & also the piece thats
rough aluminum where the little Oldsmobile placque is?  I'd like to have a
few extras just in case.  People make me nervous.


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 20:48:36 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: a mopar list like this one?

>1964 F-85 Cutlass Vista-Cruiser Custom HC

This is the longest VC title I've ever seen.  :-)


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 21:01:20 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Shifter question

  Build Sheet  (big snip) - you lucky dog.  I'm still 6 cars for 6 without
finding one.

Shifter question - I have the t-type big handle on the '64, it appears its
supposed to have a top button or ?? to depress to pull it back into gear.
This part is gone.  What did it look like?  On my '67 it was a big round
ball with the little t-bar piece.  What are my chances of finding one?
Bryceman -  don't suppose you've got an extra on that '65 parts car you
have out in the field?!?

Its annoying like this because it comes off in your hand.


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 20:47:22 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: 72 W-30 vote and racing 1/4

Isn't it terrible to think "God I'm sick of looking at nice (Chevy, Ford,
Mopar) cars" , it seems a shame to dis them like that!!

At the rate I do things, it'll take me a few months to send my picture in
but I will just for the H*ll of it (of my Delta).

Its interesting to note they made such a big deal of the AMX owners pulling
together to vote their car into the number one spot - almost as if they
don't think there are that many of them out there (wrong!).

 I think if we pulled together we could do the same thing - easily.

P.S.  I voted for Mark (oh, duhhh).  VERY nice car :-)




Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 00:17:10 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: 72 442 back from trans shop

>Just one question. Before I took it in, the tires would squeal
>when shifting from 1st to 2nd and now they don't. Is this
>because of the new torque converter?
>
>John Richmond
>richmond@tir.com
>Warren, MI
>72 442/455



Sounds like the old trans had a shift kit in it.  Or perhaps it's the
way it's adjusted.  Ask the shop about this.  (unless you don't want
the tires to chirp shifting from 1st to 2nd)

Warren MI huh?  I'm from the 23 mile & gratiot area.  What color is
your car?

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 21:08:48 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: '64 Cutlass

>One thing to be aware of with those 64's.  The rear axles in those 10 bolts
>are made with cheap soft metal.    Replace the rear bearings before they
spin the race.
That's good to know - and the kind of preventative maintenance I don't mind
doing.

>I've had my 64 for 10 years

Great!!   Check out my post on my shifter & let me know if you might have
access to a replacement for what's missing.

Thanks much!

Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 21:15:34 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: '64 Jetstar value

I got this message from my website - reply to me at my e-mail please:

Subject: Value of an '64(?) Jetstar 88

Greetings all!
I happened across this board and was wondering if anyone has any interest
in my father's Oldmobile (sorry I couldn't resist!)...it's been sitting for
at least 15yrs maybe even longer.  The engine was OK as far as I can
remember...the interior is OK but the flat surfaces of the trunk and hood
are VERY pitted!  Anyone interested in it as either a project car or parts
car?  It's located in northern NJ.
Thanks!
Mark



Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 00:26:12 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Does duralube or slick 50 work?

A couple of guys at work said they have tried "Slick 50" and "Duralube"
and said they think it actually works.  (engine seems to run smoother,
etc.)

Has anyone tried using this stuff?

The one guy suggested I buy this Duralube kit;  Oil drain pan, 2 shop
rags, duralube, duralube transmission formula, and a fuel formula all
for $13.00.  I will probably try it in my truck, but am a little
nervous to put it in my 71' 4-4-2.

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 00:24:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: '70 VC Hinges

hi, i have two vistas, one is a 72, other is 70.  please reply if interested
 steven. w30442cs@aol.com          i deal in 68-72 olds parts,
buy,sell,trade.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 00:31:57 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Does duralube or slick 50 work?

mrhell@m1.sprynet.com wrote:
>
> A couple of guys at work said they have tried "Slick 50" and "Duralube"
> and said they think it actually works.  (engine seems to run smoother,
> etc.)
>
> Has anyone tried using this stuff?
>
Consumer Reports this month had an article about Slick 50, and the FTC
mandating they remove the words in their ads about your engine needs
this stuff or it will wear out quicker, and that it coats engine parts
with PFTE.  In fact, they stated that in their motor oil test last year,
that Slick 50 or similar stuff had no added benefit.  And Mobil 1 fared
no better in their tests than regular oil of the same weight.  They did
mention that Mobil 1 COULD stand the heat better, but as far as wear
prevention, no noticable difference.  Something to think about.....

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 00:35:40 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 72 W-30 vote

> P.S.  I voted for Mark (oh, duhhh).  VERY nice car :-)
>
I did too.  But, his car could be nicer.......he could find it in his
heart to discard material things, and GIVE me the keys and title to that
BEA-YOO-TIFUL W-30! (Just kidding Mark.  Way to go!)

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 00:05:27 -0700
From: "Forrest Johnson" <johnson@edisongroup.com>
Subject: Re: Does duralube or slick 50 work?

mrhell@m1.sprynet.com wrote:
>
> A couple of guys at work said they have tried "Slick 50" and "Duralube"
> and said they think it actually works.
>
> RC Hellebuyck
> 1971 4-4-2 covt.

I tend to stay away from any of these products.  Change your oil every
3000 mi. and use a good grade/brand of oil.  I have heard some shops
will not work on a "lube-enhanced" motor due to the bonding to internal
parts that the products advertise to be so great.  Others will
charge more, due to cleanup and prep times.  FYI. These products
void new car warrenties, wonder why ???
Synthetic oils also claim great performance.  I have seen good
things with these oils, but some manufactors also claim foul
when these are used, while some recomend these oils.  Is it because
the synthetic oils actually do what it claims and doesn't leave
that "stuff" behind ???

One more note: Texas A&M has a truck that has been in service for
many years.  Rumor is that it has never had a complete oil change !!!
Once a month, the oil filter is replaced and a quart of new oil
is added.  Last I heard it had over a million (1000000) miles recorded
on the same motor.


Thanks
Forrest
johnson@edisongroup.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 00:21:43 -0700
From: "Forrest Johnson" <johnson@edisongroup.com>
Subject: Re: Racing

All this racing talk is getting the blood going.
      WARNING: it's addictive!
> John Pajak                       Information Spectrum Inc.
> Network Installation Team
> Naval Air Station, Patuxent River, Maryland


Yes it is...
When you break that 13.00 and that 103 mph mark, it's a whole
new game.  Things go a lot faster (duhh), what I mean is, it all
happens quicker due to all the variables that have to be
correct.  Tires sticking, big gear, motor/trans combo. It all
has to click at the right time.  I remember the first time
I broke 13.00.  Hard, in your seat, launch -- great, on time (rpm)
shifts with the tires glued to the pavement like fly paper -- the
motor not missing a tick and the weather is ideal for the run.
Man, what a rush it is.  If you haven't ever been there, do it
just once and you WILL do it again.  I'm now pushing 12.80s
in my 68 Cutlass and looking for more.  By the way, I am
running smog, small valve J heads (cough cough, choke).  Just
think what a Alum. head could do.

See ya at the track,
Forrest
johnson@edisongroup.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 01:20:21 -0400
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: Does duralube or slick 50 work?

mrhell@m1.sprynet.com wrote:
>
> A couple of guys at work said they have tried "Slick 50" and "Duralube"
> and said they think it actually works.  (engine seems to run smoother,
> etc.)
>
> Has anyone tried using this stuff?
>
> The one guy suggested I buy this Duralube kit;  Oil drain pan, 2 shop
> rags, duralube, duralube transmission formula, and a fuel formula all
> for $13.00.  I will probably try it in my truck, but am a little
> nervous to put it in my 71' 4-4-2.
>
> RC Hellebuyck
> 1971 4-4-2 covt.

Most anti-friction additves, such as Duralube, contain chlorine, which
can be a real s**t disturber inside an engine.  Oil companies used to
add chlorine to engine oils, because it was a good extreme-pressure
additive, and it kept the oil from breaking down so fast.

*But*, research proved that chlorine was doing more bad than good, so
oil companies gave up on it.  Instead of prolonging oil life, it was
causing major engine corrosion, especially when the engine sat for a few
days without running....the oil residue would eat away at the steel like
it had F*rd stamped all over it.

Here are some interesting numbers regarding chlorine content:  (I got
these numbers from a dozen different sources, including R&T, and this
list)

Duralube 6.6%
Motor Up12.9%
Prolube  29.0%(never heard of it, except on the list...)
Slick 503.7%

Since you'll be diluting this in the crankcase, divde it by five
(approx.).  Any number more than 0.9% will cause internal corrosion...

I ran a bottle of Duralube in my truck ('91 GMC Sierra 4x4), and it ran
fine while it was in, but after I changed the oil, I could hear a
symphony of sixteen valves singing 'Ave Maria'.  The truck only has
about 52,00 miles on it, and the valves shouldn't sound like that, even
if it was the last year of the 'soft 305'.

You could switch to synthetic oil, but it adds to operating costs,
*plus* you would wanna be sure your RC and oil pan gaskets are in A1
shape!  The best way to find every potential oil leak in your engine is
to run sythetic oil.  Yes, it works wonders (in my opinion) for the
engine, especially at cold start-up, but my '78 Delta has a hard time
holding oil as it is.  It doesn't burn any, but I've got a nasty sweat
around the oil pan and rocker covers.

If you are going to switch to synthetic, flush the crankcase first.
Just pick up a bottle of engine flush at the local auto parts shop, and
add it to a warm crankcase.  If the engine has never been flushed, let
it idle for 10-15min, but don't actually drive the car or rev it past
two grand;  she'll seize.  What the flush does it strip all of the oil
sludge off of the valve guides, unplug the lifters, and clear out all
the varnish...even gold oil will come out black.  Then just drain the
oil, change the filter, and fill 'er up with the synthetic.  Most engine
flushes have a decent chlorine content, but it will only be in the
engine for a few minutes...any additve will be in there for two or three
thousand miles.

In my opinion, you shouldn't need any sort of added lubrication, unless
you plan on firing up the engine, revving it to five grand, and then run
it down the road at WOT seconds after start-up.  Since you likely won't
be, I'd suggest staying away from the additives, but if you're
determined to add *something*, use Slick 50.  Not only does it have the
lowest Cl content, but I've seen quite a few people use it with no side
effects.  It probably doesn't do a damn thing, aside from screw you
outta twenty bucks...I've heard a few rumous that it doesn't work as
well as it's supposed to, but I heard this during an advertisement for
Duralube...(that's supposed to be funny! :o)

I was in the same boat;  I wanted to use Duralube in my '78 Delta, but I
was convinced not to;  it was too late for my truck, though.  And now
I'm regretting it with a sixteen valve symphony...

I plan on flushing the 350 in my Delta 88, and then I'll be using either
Motomaster or Valvoline semi-synthetic 5W-30...it'll help cold start-up,
but not mark it's territory with an oil slick like the Mazda RX-7's do
(those Wankel engines leak oil like a sieve).

Always glad to save an engine, (Ford, Dodge, and imports not included)

S. Dave Ward

'78 Delta 88 (350 4bbl.)
'85 Delta 88 (307 4bbl.)
'91 GMC 4x4  (305 TBI)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 22:22:38 -0000
From: "Rod Beydler" <rodsmobile@mscomm.com>
Subject: Re: 400 vs. 425 vs. 455

When you use the diesel block, you lose the good rod/stroke ratio of the
425.

- ----------
> From: Daren & Laurie Hendley <daren@revealed.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 400 vs. 425 vs. 455
> Date: Thursday, September 25, 1997 9:23 PM
>
> ----------
> > From: BobH592058@aol.com
> >
> > Anybody ever hear of the Buick '70 GS 455 cid Stage I and II cars?
> >
> Yes those are some screamers!
>
> > I would sorely love to build a snorting 425.  Bore it 0.125" over for a
> total
> > displacement of 445 ci.  I'll still spot the 455 crowd the 10 cubic
> inches.
> >  The 445 will make more torque than a 455, be freer revving and
therefore
> > make more HP too.
> How about 425 with the bores resleeved with 403 sleeves? 472.8 cubic
> inches. You'll have the rpm and displacement. Of course this wouldn't be
> very practical. The block probable would have a problem with all the
stress
> created from resleeving all of the cylinders not to mention the $$$
> required for custom pistons and all the machine work. Then again if you
> might be able to use 350 diesel block with a 425 crank and 403 bores and
> save a little weighed but then again I'm just dreaming.
>
> Daren
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 01:33:54 -0400
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: Does duralube or slick 50 work?

Mike Rothe wrote:
>
> mrhell@m1.sprynet.com wrote:
> >
> > A couple of guys at work said they have tried "Slick 50" and "Duralube"
> > and said they think it actually works.  (engine seems to run smoother,
> > etc.)
> >
> > Has anyone tried using this stuff?
> >
> Consumer Reports this month had an article about Slick 50, and the FTC
> mandating they remove the words in their ads about your engine needs
> this stuff or it will wear out quicker, and that it coats engine parts
> with PFTE.

Just thought of this....are you sure you want PFTE in your engine?  PTFE
is a type of slippery plastic, which is suspended in the addtive.  After
years and years of repeated use, I wonder if you could get enough PFTE
sludge to clog an oil passageway or gum up an oil pump...

BTW, if your engine burns any oil, I wouldn't suggest using it;  PFTE,
which is plastic, doesn't burn very well if it gets into the cylinder,
and will eventually foul the plugs, and leave you at the side of the
road.  It may also add to dieseling when the car is shut off, even if
the idle-stop solenoids are in good working order...this stuff, *if*
your engine uses oil, will get really hot in the cylider, and create hot
spots, which can add to a series of headaches

I've only heard of that happening once, in a friend's plow truck, which
has two broken oil control rings.

S. Dave Ward

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Sep 97 23:34:31 PDT
From: "chris smetana" <chris@abcs.com>
Subject: Re: Does duralube or slick 50 work?

FWIW, I've used Restore in my 77 Buick LeSabre.  Parents bought the car brand
new and eventually gave it to me.  It has a 350 Olds motor (original) with
approx. 160K miles with the only internal things replaced being rocker arms and
pushrods at approx 80K.  My brother and I pulled the motor for a rebuild, I was
getting little metal shavings in the oil when I changed it because the bearings
where going.  The Restore was being used for approx the last 60K miles and 
there
was not that much of a ridge on the cylinders, or at least not as much as what
my dad, brother and I were expecting.  My brother did a ridge ream of the
cylinders and replaced only the bearings, timing chain and gears (I'm surprised
this thing even ran considering the condition of the gears) rings and ... I'm
not sure what else, need to check the receipts but the guy I'm eventually
selling it to wanted the cheapest rebuild possible.  The motor is back 
together,
but I haven't had a chance to fire her up yet. Just my 2 cents on the additives

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
chris@abcs.com

1969 Cutlass W-31
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 01:41:43 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Racing

> By the way, I am
> running smog, small valve J heads (cough cough, choke).  Just
> think what a Alum. head could do.
>
Forrest, I still got those "D" heads for sale......

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 08:12:06 +0100
From: "J. Hoekendijk" <Hoekenj@apeldoorn.nl>
Subject: AGAIN: Re: a mopar list like this one?

There is a relative new emaillist on:
http://www.moparalley.org/

Jim Hoekendijk, Apeldoorn The Netherlands
1964 F-85 Cutlass Vista-Cruiser Custom HC

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 06:17:03 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: 400 vs. 425 vs. 455

>How about 425 with the bores resleeved with 403 sleeves? 472.8 cubic
>inches. You'll have the rpm and displacement. Of course this wouldn't be
>very practical. The block probable would have a problem with all the stress
>created from resleeving all of the cylinders not to mention the $$$
>required for custom pistons and all the machine work. Then again if you

Biggest problem would be the fact that the sleeves would be mating in the
middle of a water jacket (after all, you're talking about a 1/4" overbore!);
the 403 has siamesed cylinders with no water jacket in between. There's not
much space left between the cylinders.

>might be able to use 350 diesel block with a 425 crank and 403 bores and
>save a little weighed but then again I'm just dreaming.

Again, you're talking about a .300" overbore, about ten times the
recommended figure. You'd have to reconstruct the block entirely. If I win
the lottery (which I don't play), I'd tool up for some 403 castings with a
diesel bottom-end to take the 425's crank. I'm still scheming about a 425
crank with cut-down journals being dropped into a 403 block; I _want_ a
500+ci SMALL BLOCK! Of course, I'd have to put 260 stickers on it... :)
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 06:17:00 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: 455 heads....again.....

>What exactly makes for a good set of heads??  I always thought that the
>bigger the valves the better the heads.  What are the advantages of a set
>of "H" heads compared to say a set of "C" heads????  After all the C's
>have bigger valves......

Not all "C" heads have big valves, only the Toro, 442 and hi-po big-car
engines; all "H" heads, though, should be big-valve. In fact, most have the
same exact exhaust valve size; the "big-valve" heads have the 2.07" intakes,
as opposed to the 2.00" intakes. Any Olds head can be machined for them, 
though.

>...and how much would some people pay for a set of "H" heads???  I am not
>going to sell them, but just for curiosity.......

If someone is trying to get their '71 W-30 just right, I bet you could get
their firstborn child. For regular folk, though, they're no better than the
very common "C" heads. Then, price depends upon condition.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 02:39:49 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: FS: Dual Gate and w/w moldings

Hello all.

Just making these items available for list members first.

71/72 442 Dual Gate shifter, doesn't have a top plate, cable, or knob.
Has floor mount and light brackets though.  And the spring loaded gate
cover with it's little rectangle knob.  EXCELLENT shape.  $100

70-72 442 Wheel well moldings. Absolutely FABULOUS. All 4.  $200

I sent these to Bryceman's page tonight listing for 120 and 225.  So if
anyone here is interested........

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 02:47:20 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 455 heads....again.....

> >...and how much would some people pay for a set of "H" heads???  I am not
> >going to sell them, but just for curiosity.......
>
> If someone is trying to get their '71 W-30 just right, I bet you could get
> their firstborn child.

Maybe.  Similarly, F and D heads are going for 1000+ per pair, if you
can find them.  H heads, on the other hand, are REALLY freakin rare.
Again, a person restoring a 71 W-30 would really be the only ones
willing to go the distance.  If you sold them, I would guess somewhere
around $1200 or so for a good set of H heads.  But, if you keep them,
they are only worth whatever YOU paid for them.  Prices subject to
change with demand and supply.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 05:58:33 -0400 (EDT)
From: RBaxter601@aol.com
Subject: Re: 72 442 back from trans shop

unsubscribe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 05:40:36 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: 400 vs. 425 vs. 455

Not to advertise, but Comp Cams offers a cam regrind service, maybe
lifters too.  So it is not hard to find.  I can dig up a number if you
need it, I think they have a 800/888 number.  I was thinking of that for
my 85 Cutlass 307 cam (roller), but it seems that in the Tech Talk in
the latest Car Craft magazine they do list 4 cam grinds Mondello
recommends for computer controlled 307's.  Mine is 350 powered now, but
I may look at one of the healthier grinds for my engine, which retains
the computer control.  (runs pretty decent, just a touch lean on the
light throttle).

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme, Rocket 350

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 07:34:02 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: 72 W-30 vote and racing 1/4

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BCCA4E.90A4A3A0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Guess I'll send in my obligatory "I voted for Mark" email post.  =
Seriously, it is a sweet looking ride and what better place to find an =
Oldsmobile than at a drag strip?  Congrats on the 12-Teen 1/4 Mile!  =
Maybe if I take my car out this weekend, I could get a 12-Teen uhhh 1/8 =
Mile!

 Jason Adcock
 jadcock@vt.edu
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason

- -----Original Message-----
From:WMACHINES@aol.com [SMTP:WMACHINES@aol.com]
Sent:Thursday, September 25, 1997 11:49 PM
To:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:Re: 72 W-30 vote and racing 1/4

In a message dated 97-09-25 21:38:12 EDT, you write:

<< I just voted for Mark. Mark, that's a cool pic you submitted.
 Oh, congratulations are in order for the 12teen 1/4.
=20
 John Richmond >>
Thanks John, I could use all the support I can get.  Just trying to make =
an
Oldsmobile a winner for the first time on MCC

W MACHINES (Mark Prince)

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 07:54:59 -0400
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: RE: 1970 Paint Codes

On Thursday, September 25, 1997 6:00 PM, bhorn@tnc.com
[SMTP:bhorn@tnc.com] wrote:
> >On Thursday, September 25, 1997 10:08 AM, bhorn@tnc.com
> >[SMTP:bhorn@tnc.com] wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> I have a question about a 1970 paint code....What color would the
> >paint be
> >> with a code of: 04A ? I cannot seem to find anything....
> >>
> >> Shayne
> >>
> >
> >Are you sure this is a paint code. I do not see a 04 code in my
chart.
> >Maybe this is a time build code (April first week). The paint code is
to
> >the right up one line if you are looking at the Body and style plate.
> >
> >
> >ST 70 34487 E - 1724 BDY
> >TR  932           48   A PNT
> >02D    CO8
> >
> >(Paint Code = 48 Sherwood green and A = fabric color or white vinyl
top)
> >
> >
> >If it is a paint code it would be some color with a white vinyl top.
> >
> >Bobby
> >
> >70 442 Escape Back to the .....Past
> >
>
> What is the paint code for Sebring Yellow? (Rallye 350)...
> Shayne Horn

It does not have a number listed. They put "--" on the data plate. BTW
it is also called:

Daytona yellow on a 1969 Ch*v and 1970 Corve*T
Goldenrod yellow on a 1969 Po*t

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 08:31:59 -0400
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: RE: Does duralube or slick 50 work?

On Friday, September 26, 1997 1:20 AM, Dave Ward
[SMTP:ward@ptbo.igs.net] wrote:
> mrhell@m1.sprynet.com wrote:
> >
> > A couple of guys at work said they have tried "Slick 50" and
"Duralube"
> > and said they think it actually works.  (engine seems to run
smoother,
> > etc.)
> >
> > Has anyone tried using this stuff?
> >
> > The one guy suggested I buy this Duralube kit;  Oil drain pan, 2
shop
> > rags, duralube, duralube transmission formula, and a fuel formula
all
> > for $13.00.  I will probably try it in my truck, but am a little
> > nervous to put it in my 71' 4-4-2.
> >
> > RC Hellebuyck
> > 1971 4-4-2 covt.
>
> Most anti-friction additves, such as Duralube, contain chlorine, which
> can be a real s**t disturber inside an engine.  Oil companies used to
> add chlorine to engine oils, because it was a good extreme-pressure
> additive, and it kept the oil from breaking down so fast.
>
> *But*, research proved that chlorine was doing more bad than good, so
> oil companies gave up on it.  Instead of prolonging oil life, it was
> causing major engine corrosion, especially when the engine sat for a
few
> days without running....the oil residue would eat away at the steel
like
> it had F*rd stamped all over it.
>
> Here are some interesting numbers regarding chlorine content:  (I got
> these numbers from a dozen different sources, including R&T, and this
> list)
>
> Duralube 6.6%
> Motor Up12.9%
> Prolube  29.0%(never heard of it, except on the list...)
> Slick 503.7%
>
> Since you'll be diluting this in the crankcase, divde it by five
> (approx.).  Any number more than 0.9% will cause internal corrosion...
>
> I ran a bottle of Duralube in my truck ('91 GMC Sierra 4x4), and it
ran
> fine while it was in, but after I changed the oil, I could hear a
> symphony of sixteen valves singing 'Ave Maria'.  The truck only has
> about 52,00 miles on it, and the valves shouldn't sound like that,
even
> if it was the last year of the 'soft 305'.
>
> You could switch to synthetic oil, but it adds to operating costs,
> *plus* you would wanna be sure your RC and oil pan gaskets are in A1
> shape!  The best way to find every potential oil leak in your engine
is
> to run sythetic oil.  Yes, it works wonders (in my opinion) for the
> engine, especially at cold start-up, but my '78 Delta has a hard time
> holding oil as it is.  It doesn't burn any, but I've got a nasty sweat
> around the oil pan and rocker covers.
>
> If you are going to switch to synthetic, flush the crankcase first.
> Just pick up a bottle of engine flush at the local auto parts shop,
and
> add it to a warm crankcase.  If the engine has never been flushed, let
> it idle for 10-15min, but don't actually drive the car or rev it past
> two grand;  she'll seize.  What the flush does it strip all of the oil
> sludge off of the valve guides, unplug the lifters, and clear out all
> the varnish...even gold oil will come out black.  Then just drain the
> oil, change the filter, and fill 'er up with the synthetic.  Most
engine
> flushes have a decent chlorine content, but it will only be in the
> engine for a few minutes...any additve will be in there for two or
three
> thousand miles.
>
> In my opinion, you shouldn't need any sort of added lubrication,
unless
> you plan on firing up the engine, revving it to five grand, and then
run
> it down the road at WOT seconds after start-up.  Since you likely
won't
> be, I'd suggest staying away from the additives, but if you're
> determined to add *something*, use Slick 50.  Not only does it have
the
> lowest Cl content, but I've seen quite a few people use it with no
side
> effects.  It probably doesn't do a damn thing, aside from screw you
> outta twenty bucks...I've heard a few rumous that it doesn't work as
> well as it's supposed to, but I heard this during an advertisement for
> Duralube...(that's supposed to be funny! :o)
>
> I was in the same boat;  I wanted to use Duralube in my '78 Delta, but
I
> was convinced not to;  it was too late for my truck, though.  And now
> I'm regretting it with a sixteen valve symphony...
>
> I plan on flushing the 350 in my Delta 88, and then I'll be using
either
> Motomaster or Valvoline semi-synthetic 5W-30...it'll help cold
start-up,
> but not mark it's territory with an oil slick like the Mazda RX-7's do
> (those Wankel engines leak oil like a sieve).
>
> Always glad to save an engine, (Ford, Dodge, and imports not included)
>
> S. Dave Ward
>
> '78 Delta 88 (350 4bbl.)
> '85 Delta 88 (307 4bbl.)
> '91 GMC 4x4  (305 TBI)

Great information. I don't use these products in my cars. I have a
question? In most of the commercials for these products they show an
engine with no oil, no water, no oil pan and such. They run the engine
with no load and it doesn't overheat or lock up. I don't think it is
because of these products either. Would just running the engine with a
good oil provide the same results? Is there some trick they are using to
do this?


Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the.....Past

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 05:48:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: Racing

- -RCKTPWR@aol.com wrote:

 what r the specs on that g head 455??
 just curious
      bernie............rcktpwr@aol.com

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It's really a simple motor. It has .030 over '70 pistons which
combined with the 72 Ga heads give probably 9.2:1 compression. It has
a Mondello 22-25 cam and Mondello valve springs. It has a stock W455
intake, Qjet (with larger jets), and point-type distributor. It has
headers, 2 1/4" headpipes, ancient Hush Thrush mufflers and 2"
tailpipes. It idles a bit rough but there is enough vacuum for the
power disc barkes to function well. I have an 11" convertor in the
Turbo 400. It's tame enough to drive anywhere and gets about 12 MPG.

===
John Pajak                       Information Spectrum Inc.
Network Installation Team
Naval Air Station, Patuxent River, Maryland

HTTP://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

JSPajak@rocketmail.com


_____________________________________________________________________
Sent by RocketMail. Get your free e-mail at http://www.rocketmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 09:25:24 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Thanks about info on slick 50 & duralube

Geez, so glad I asked this question!  I think it's obvious that I'm NOT
going to add this "fast fix crap" to my 455!  Didn't expect to get the
type of info you guys talked about.

Thanks to everyone that responded!  I don't even think I'll try it in
my truck, (GMC 1500) or the wife's car, (Olds Achieva).

Think I'll show the boys at work this information.  :o


About synthetic oil, I was planning on changing over to this, since I
hear so many good things about it.  That has changed too!  (It's that
oil leak thing Dave Ward talked about.)  The engine gets dirty fast
enough!

Think I'll run my Quaker State 10W-40 & 10W-30 oil that I have been
using. (still trying both weights).  By the way, since the car is only
driven during summer is 40 wt oil necessarily better than 30 wt?

Thanks again!

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 09:28:30 -0400
From: IRONMAN <jev114@email.psu.edu>
Subject: RE: Does duralube or slick 50 work?

Yes all this is fine and dandy but, i've ran into long term instances witht
these products.
after the 50K miles or so when these products begin wearing off the crank
journals, it's like
tiny dirt particles on your bearings. it wiped out the crank and
bearing...if you ever tear down
a motor that has used these products even once, you will certainly decide
against using them
again. it puts a brown haze/coating over everything, and just isn't
clean...lots of dirt seem to bond
to it also. think about it, anything that's gonna last 50 thousand miles or
more in your engine is gonna
get hard and eventually flake off. the choice is yours. sure thes products
can make impressive
numbers in short term tests. i would stongly suggest using oil only.

just my experience with the stuff
Jeff

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 09:43:25 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: I voted!

Voted for Mark twice.  (2 separate e-mail's so it counted!)

Hey Mark when you fly somewhere on vacation, I'd be glad to "car sit"
for you!  Wouldn't want that beauty to get lonely would you!?!  :)
Good luck!

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 09:40:00 -0400
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: Hood ornaments

Here is a statement CNN is making: Hood ornaments "A thing of the past".
The video shows a few Olds that have and do not have hood ornaments. My
442 does not have one, but the Cads do. Maybe they all will be gone
soon. :-(

The URL for this story is at:


http://cnn.com/US/9709/17/fringe/hood.ornament/


Better start putting those hood ornaments in storage, their value will
be going up......

Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the.....Past

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 09:56:07 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: FS: Dual Gate and w/w moldings

Hi Mike,

First, what color is the console?  Need BLACK!

Second, I currently have a regular "auto" console, that's complete.
What would I need to complete the change over if I bought your dual
gate?  (I don't want to "convert" mine my the way)  Rather buy a dual
gate.

Lastly, What would be a "ball park" cost for these parts?

let me know.

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 10:19:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: senko@reston.ans.net (Andrew A. Senko)
Subject: FS 72 H/O

Gang,

Here's the skinny on this car:

*** 1972 H/O coupe for sale $3000, in Annandale VA (703)922-8581 - Nick Marks

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

A guy called me last night to see if I could help him find a buyer for his
1972 H/O.  The owner's name is Nick Marks.  He got my name from another guy
in the local Olds club.  Here's what I know about the car (I've never seen
the car, and I don't know the guy):

- - 1972 Hurst/Olds
- - Hardtop coupe
- - 455 auto with his/hers shifters
- - OAI
- - power disc brakes in front
- - A/C

Nick is the original owner.

He said the odometer had been replaced.  The current one says somewhere in
the 90K range, but he says that the car really has 45K - 55K on it.  He
also says that it has rust starting in the usual places (below rear window,
bottom of quarter panels).

I can't remember much else about the car at this time.  Nick's phone number
is (703)922-8581.  He said he's looking for a price in the $3000 area.  The
car is in Annandale Virginia, which is near Arlington (and maybe 20 min. from
Washington DC).

I'm going to take a look at it on Saturday, mostly just for something to
do.  I don't have any plans to buy it myself.

He's also got a set of Goodyear G60 polyglass tires for sale that he thinks
someone might be interested in for show cars, since these are original
style tires, and he says that they don't make them anymore.

Call Nick if you are interested in this car.

- --
                    _
                    |\            Convertibles
     .__====-_._____|_\______         Rule!                        Drew Senko
     [   ___  |-     |  ___  \                           senko@reston.ans.net
     =\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)               http://members.aol.com/drewinva
_________\_/____________\_/__________________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 09:20:53 -0500
From: Paul Brillhart <u17058@uicvm.uic.edu>
Subject: Re: Pilot Bearing

  Dave Smith Engineering sells the correct pilot bearing.  Their number
is (909) 371-7040.  Later.


  Paul



Patton wrote:

>
>
> > Anybody have the specs on drilling the crankshaft for a pilot
> bearing on
> > the "automatic" crankshafts?
> >
> I had this done to my crank. It took two different machine shops to do
> the work. I remember someone has a large bronze bushing that fits the
> big part off the
> crank. Has anyone gone this route.
>
> The General

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 09:40:16 -0500
From: "David Brown (the Olds FAQ compiler)" <dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: RE: 72 W-30 vote

Voted, of course, for Mark's '72 W-30. Nice color! Looks sharp!

The Vista from last week placed third or fourth, beating out a number of
Chevys.
- --
David Brown     Mailto:dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 09:34:16 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: I voted!

I voted for you too!

> Date:          Fri, 26 Sep 1997 09:43:25 -0400
> From:          mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
> Subject:       I voted!
> To:            oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Reply-to:      oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

> Voted for Mark twice.  (2 separate e-mail's so it counted!)
>
> Hey Mark when you fly somewhere on vacation, I'd be glad to "car sit"
> for you!  Wouldn't want that beauty to get lonely would you!?!  :)
> Good luck!
>
> RC Hellebuyck
> 1971 4-4-2 covt.
>

- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 10:41:44 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: Hood ornaments

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BCCA68.C94541A0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I don't know about anybody else, but I like my hood ornament.  I watched =
the CNN's video at their website and I think I agree with Rolls Royce's =
claim that the hood ornament is sort of a mascot, although I don't agree =
with their $1000 price for a piece of metal in the shape of a flying =
lady!

 Jason Adcock
 jadcock@vt.edu
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason

- -----Original Message-----
From:Etzel, Bobby [SMTP:Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com]
Sent:Friday, September 26, 1997 9:40 AM
To:Olds list
Subject:Hood ornaments


Here is a statement CNN is making: Hood ornaments "A thing of the past".
The video shows a few Olds that have and do not have hood ornaments. My
442 does not have one, but the Cads do. Maybe they all will be gone
soon. :-(

The URL for this story is at:


http://cnn.com/US/9709/17/fringe/hood.ornament/


Better start putting those hood ornaments in storage, their value will
be going up......

Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the.....Past
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 14:44:11 GMT
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: [Toro] Hello, hello... Is there anybody in there...?

>  Keep that Toro and dump something else...it's
>>a Toro, Lisa - a TORO!!!
>
>Ya got a point there.  Have to see - maybe no one will want to buy it &
>that can be my excuse :-)

Well, Lisa, it seems the only was a problem would arise is if you priced the
'69 reasonably. Ask for $4,000; if someone takes it, great- more money to
put into the '66. If no takers, hey, you've got another Toro! Win-win
situation if there ever was one...

And since none of this discussion has anything to do with the subject line,
I'll just add that I've finally got ahold of the spare strato-bench center
armrest for a flip-open cupholder on my '69; that's a project for next
summer, though...
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 11:19:28 -0400
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: RE: Hood ornaments

On Friday, September 26, 1997 10:42 AM, jadcock@vt.edu
[SMTP:jadcock@vt.edu] wrote:
> I don't know about anybody else, but I like my hood ornament.  I
watched the CNN's video at their website and I think I agree with Rolls
Royce's claim that the hood ornament is sort of a mascot, although I
don't agree with their $1000 price for a piece of metal in the shape of
a flying lady!
>
>  Jason Adcock
>  jadcock@vt.edu
>  http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:Etzel, Bobby [SMTP:Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com]
> Sent:Friday, September 26, 1997 9:40 AM
> To:Olds list
> Subject:Hood ornaments
>
>
> Here is a statement CNN is making: Hood ornaments "A thing of the
past".
> The video shows a few Olds that have and do not have hood ornaments.
My
> 442 does not have one, but the Cads do. Maybe they all will be gone
> soon. :-(
>
> The URL for this story is at:
>
>
> http://cnn.com/US/9709/17/fringe/hood.ornament/
>
>
> Better start putting those hood ornaments in storage, their value will
> be going up......
>
> Bobby
>
> 70 442 Escape Back to the.....Past

Do you think the 442 on the front of my car could count as a hood
ornament and someday sell them for, say $900,  no they are better then a
Rolls, say $2000.?


Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the......Past

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª871
********************************
