
oldsmobile-digest       Monday, October 6 1997       Volume 01 : Number 887



Re: C smog heads
steering wheel question
Re: W-machine?
Re: MY OLDS WON!!!!
PARTS FOR SALE
Re: steering wheel question
Center console lens
Re: Door Hinge Hanging Tips?
Re: Blinker speed
Re: Getting off of this list
Installed HEI
Re: Fall Carlise
Re: rear view
Re: Stupid Timing Chain Question
[Fwd: Wanted - 1969 OLDSMOBILE 4-4-2]
307 Intake Manifold Gaskets - Which is best?
Re: 307 Intake Manifold Gaskets - Which is best?
Re: NEED info on custom exhaust...
Re: Junkyard '78 Delta Royale (Interiors & Southern cars)
Seiko,Citizen,Movado 35-75% Off 
Re: WHEELS: 50 Olds
Re: Getting off of this list
junkyard finds....
HEI Stuff
Re: FW: Frame off
Re: Fender Alignment Tricks?
PLEASE!! Need Advice On Ignitions
Re: These Bumperettes
Content-Type: text/plain
Re: HEI Stuff
Re: junkyard finds....
Re: 
71 Cutlass Supreme Conv For Sale
Remote Mirror Repair?
Re: junkyard finds....
Rallye 350 a Hurst?
Small block ex port size;  Was RE: _____
Re: These Bumperettes
Guy wants St. Wheel clock
engine rebuild questions
Re: Remote Mirror Repair?
Re: Guy wants St. Wheel clock
Re: My saturday at the drags
Re: engine belt tension?
W25
Re: Stupid Timing Chain Question
Re: W25
Re: W25
Re: Olds Centenial makes print
Re: Hot Starting Problems
Re: PLEASE!! Need Advice On Ignitions
RE: Hot Starting Problems
RE: WHEELS: 50 Olds
Re: 307 Intake Manifold Gaskets - Which is best?
FOR ALL TO SEE, other olds list
Re: W25
Re: Hot Starting Problems

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 12:06:54 -0400
From: "Eric T. Brubakken" <ebrubak@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: C smog heads

COUPEKING@aol.com wrote:
> 
> My '67 CS has a 400-2V engine with C heads with smog fittings. The car
> otherwise has dual exhausts and is an enjoyable cruiser, and I've got a 4V
> manifold I'd like to install.
> My question is this: Can these heads be modified to run without the
> smog fittings? Does anybody have any experience with these heads?
> Of course am also planning to do away with smog pump etc..which car now still
> has.
> Thanks!
> Peter/CoupeKing@aol.com

If the somg fitting (ie air injectors ) are still there just remove the
injector manifold.  Then remove the injector tube from the exhaust
port.  This can be done by inserting something like a small screwdrive
into the tube, then twisting and remove the tube.  After that, just get
some plugs and plug the holes.  I ran a set of heads like this for years
without any problems.

Eric Brubakken
ebrubak@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 12:22:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: BMAN6771@aol.com
Subject: steering wheel question

hi, i have a 1967 cutlass convertible. i was wondering if a 70-72 sport
steering wheel would fit on my car. would this be possible or would something
on the steering wheel hub be totally different than the 70-72 hub?????? any
info on this matter would be welcomed.
thanks

brent
1967 cutlass convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 12:30:11 -0400
From: Dave Heilala <dheilala@wwnet.com>
Subject: Re: W-machine?

Chris Brown Witt wrote:
> 
> Subject: Re: W Machines
> In a message dated 97-10-02 11:23:42 EDT, you write:
> 
> << Hello! Let's see how many people on the list have a w machine. Let's
>  here  details on your car! I have a 70 w31 and was wondering how many
>  people on the list have these rare and powerful machines.
> ==================
> We have a W machine. Keep it in the basement right next to the D-machine, the
> wife uses 'em to "W" & "D" the clothes. Whirlpool?
> 
> Ha ha ha. In the garage there's two W30's... what a pain in the ass! First you
> gotta find then bothersome W30 heads. Then there's the carb that is made of
> unobtainium, unless any old number will do... the special air cleaner... Unless
> you are so fortunate that your car came with all these things, they were not
> disposed of along the way.
>   Yuck. Avoid them at all cost. ;-)
> They burn gas, use up tires too fast, you NEVER get to view the back end of a
> 5-point-slow... unless you're passing.
> --
> Chris  B. Witt
> *the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
> wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
Chris: I still have my original 68 W31 Ramrod that I bought new from
Olds division at the assembly plant in May, 1968. It is Ocean Turquoise
and was at the Olds Centennial in the 68 lot. Watched it go together on
the assembly line and drove it out of the plant. Fun car.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 12:34:22 -0400
From: Dave Heilala <dheilala@wwnet.com>
Subject: Re: MY OLDS WON!!!!

Mark Cornea wrote:
> 
> WMACHINES@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > Well thanks to the Olds list and digest and a few friends, I have won the
> > first round of the MCC run-off.  The big one comes in December when they
> > pair 18 cars against each other.  I would like to Thank everyone full heartly
> > for your support of my 72 W-30.  So now we will have to give other Oldsmobile
> > cars the same support.  Unfortunately this week there is no oldsmobiles to
> > vote
> > for :(   So I will keep everyone posted and BTW  I am off to the track again
> > this
> > Friday, and hope to achieve a time faster than my 12.18.  I have done a
> > little
> > modifying to the carb, jet change and metering rod change.  We will see how
> > fast
> > she goes.  Mike Hall will be there and so will Mark Cornea and hopefully
> > Gary Rubrich.  And anybody else in the metro Detroit area who would like to
> > join
> > the Olds racing at Detroit Dragway, come on down for the Test and Tune
> > session.
> > It starts at 5:00 and runs till 10:00 pm on Friday, October 3rd, 1997
> >
> > W MACHINES  (Mark Prince)
> > 72 442 W-30 Race Rocket
> 
> 
>         Congratulations Mark!! I new with all the support here on the list that
> you would win! Good job people!!
> 
>     ---------------------------------------------------------------
>        ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
>           Mark Cornea (Dr Decal) `70 W30 stick ~ Red (of course)
> 
>               (drdecal442@aol.com) or (mcornea@.ford.com)
> 
>             OCA# 4903
>             OPC# 14
>        ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
Way to go Mark. Having seen your car sitting still as well as many times
"in action", there's few to compare with it. Congrats

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 13:17:53 -0400 (EDT)
From: Crown14@aol.com
Subject: PARTS FOR SALE

These parts are mostly for  '71-'72 Cutlasses (they came of a '72), and
exceptions are noted.

USED
- - LH Front Turnsignal Lens
   with or without screws      $10
- - RH Front Turnsignal Lens
   with or without screws      $10
- - LH/RH Front Tunsignal Housing,
  just painted, w/gasket       $20
- - Grille 'Oldsmobile' Script   $15
- - AM Deluxe Radio             OFFER
- - AM/FM  Mono Radio        OFFER
- - Bumper Jack, complete
  with lugwrench                 $35
- - Chrome Window channel
  (between 1/4 glass and door
   glass) pass. side            $20
- - 2 spare tire or hubcap wheels
  both 14in                        $15ea
- - side marker lens gasket
  new                               $4
- - 4X10 front speaker           OFFER

Email me for detailed descriptions on any of these parts and any questions
you may have.

Thanks,
Joel
1972 Cutlass S 350/4vb
~new~ to the list

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 14:47:12 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: steering wheel question

On Sun, 5 Oct 1997 BMAN6771@aol.com wrote:
> hi, i have a 1967 cutlass convertible. i was wondering if a 70-72 sport
> steering wheel would fit on my car. would this be possible or would something
> on the steering wheel hub be totally different than the 70-72 hub?????? any
> info on this matter would be welcomed.

It would fit, sort of... it will work OK, but the hub is much bigger on 
the outside diameter, so it will look funny.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 13:58:41 -0700
From: JFOWLER@capecod.net
Subject: Center console lens

I'm looking for a lens that fits inside the back of a center console for
a 69 442 conv. 
Any help would be appreciated!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Oct 1997 19:26:24 -0500
From: katana72@juno.com (Rob T)
Subject: Re: Door Hinge Hanging Tips?

I saw an article in "Hot Rod " magazine showinf the use of an engine
stand that was modified to hold a door while painting it. I think this
might lend itself to other ideas for further modifications to use an
engine stand to hang a door. Just a thought!!!


Katana72          "It's NOT yourDaddy's Oldsmobile !!!!!    Hastings, MN
On Tue, 30 Sep 1997 08:26:08 -0700 Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
writes:
>Ok, so I went to replace the heater core a few Sundays ago and decided 
>to
>repaint the box on the interior side. Then I got into the ol' familiar 
>"while
>I'm at it", and disassembled the whole front clip of my 98 conv.
>
>Since I had the fenders off, I figured this would be the perfect time 
>to
>install
>those new Fusick rubber door boots for the wires. Oh, and it's time to 
>put
>those   rebushed hinges on too.
>
>Any tips on hanging doors? This seems to be a fairly involved process.
>
>Plan so far:
>1) Pull door panels remove wiring, vacuum hoses etc, leaving doors 
>free for
>complete removal if necessary.
>2) Grease pencil the outline of existing hinges on both the body and 
>doors for
>reference. Masking tape off the edges of the door for no-chip paint 
>safety.
>3) Remove/replace one hinge at a time while my friend holds the door 
>to
>bear some of the weight.
>4)Attempt to adjust only the body bolts, not the door bolts
>since the doors are just sagging a bit, not out of adjustment relative 
>to
>the side of the car.
>5) Do the next hinge as above
>6) Install rubber boot onu the body and pull the wires/hoses through.
>7) Do the other side.
>
>Any tips or improvements to this plan? Any tricks to getting 
>consistent
>door to car clearances? Am I better off taking the doors off 
>completely to
>get the hinge in the _exactly_ the right place on the door? Should I 
>put
>_both_ hinges on the door while it's off or do one at a time while 
>it's on
>the car so as not to "lose" the door vs car position?
>
>Thanks in advance.
>cf
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Oct 1997 19:41:19 -0500
From: katana72@juno.com (Rob T)
Subject: Re: Blinker speed

change the flasher unit to a "heavy duty" type and you should realize a
slow down on your turn signal speed. The hazards on most vehicles use a
separate flasher assy. OR  you could just swap the two.
Katana72          "It's NOT yourDaddy's Oldsmobile !!!!!    Hastings, MN
On Tue, 30 Sep 1997 22:11:50 -0600 Tim Rudolph <trudolph@frii.com>
writes:
>Just a quick question,
>  My 69 442's turn signals blink pretty quickly..  How might I slow 
>'em
>down to 'standard' speed?  Any ideas?  The hazards blink at the proper
>speed, just not the turn signals.. Thanks.
>
>Tim Rudolph
>trudolph@frii.com
>'69 442 Convertible
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 14:49:07 -0400 (EDT)
From: DEOVIVERE@aol.com
Subject: Re: Getting off of this list

In a message dated 97-10-04 08:45:11 EDT, you write:

<< That gives me an !idea!. I can make
 T-shirts in my Graphic Design class. I was thinking about one with an
 Olds (73) on it that says FUKENKRUZIN. Good idea >>

I like that idea!  

Tom

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 15:54:21 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Installed HEI

I just got done installing the HEI distributor I bought at Carlisle
yesterday.  Took about 2 hours (took a half hour just to get the old one
out!) to replace it, make the plug wires and set the timing.  

Went done the road to do a burnout, what a difference!  Before I could
lay rubber until about 30mph and get a good 1-2 second chirp when I
shifted into 2nd.  Now it layed rubber to 60mph!  The car runs smoother,
takes off better and ~really~ runs like a bat out of hell when I punch
at 80mph.  Take my advice, get an HEI.

BTW, I did NOT have to dent my aircleaner.  The Accel super coil has a
lip that extends over the plug wire on the distributor that was in the
way.  I simply pulled out the Dremel, cut it off and the OAI airclener
base ~just~ fits.

- -- 
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 15:58:25 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Fall Carlise

Sorry Greg, that was supposed to go private.

Kurt Heinrich wrote:
> 
> James Thingwold wrote:
> 
> > P.S.  I've still got the nice '72 front bumper off it too for sale still......
> 
> Lisa,
> I'd be interested in the bumper, mine frowns (both sides bent down
> somewhat).  Let me know the condition and price.
> 
> Thanks
> --
> Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
> 71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 16:18:30 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: rear view

Robert Barry wrote:
> 
> >I want to install a new rear view mirror with a map light
> >i think i found a plug for it near the emergency brake. Is this
> >the right one? I also am trying to replace the bulb inside,

One side note here, be careful what bulb you use!
The bulb ~looks~ like a normal dome light bulb, but this is not the
case.  The dome light uses a 12 candle power bulb (p/n 211).  The map
lamps in both the mirror and the dash panel use a 4 candle power bulb
(p/n 563).  Putting in the wrong bulb will lead to overheating and
damage.  I have had no luck finding the correct bulb at auto parts
stores, so whenever I go to a junkyard I scrounge all that I can from
the mirror and dash panel map lights.  Have about 15 right now.

- -- 
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 16:38:46 -0000
From: "Rod Beydler" <rodsmobile@mscomm.com>
Subject: Re: Stupid Timing Chain Question

There are 2 TDC's. One at compression and one at exhaust. If both lifters
of #1 are not on the heel, you're at TDC exhaust. Therefore, just rotate
the crank 360 degrees and you should be okay.

- ----------
> From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Stupid Timing Chain Question
> Date: Wednesday, October 01, 1997 5:13 PM
> 
> 
> The block is disassembled and the heads are off and it is time to install

> the cam and timing chain.  The book says to bring #1 to TDC on the 
> compression stroke but when the heads are off there isn't a compression 
> stroke or is there and if so, how does one figure it out.  Then for a 
> straight up installation align the dots with the dowel pin at the top but

> if the dowel pin is at the top the lifters are not on the heels of the 
> cam and the valves will not be closed. AAARgh.. I knew I should never 
> have read the book... A succinct explanation and description of how to 
> install the timing chain would be most helpful...Thanks 
> 
> Al Varhus
> Columbus, Ohio 
> http://www.infinet.com/~avar
>  
>   
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 15:49:29 -0400
From: "Bradford W. Nicholson" <brad442@erols.com>
Subject: [Fwd: Wanted - 1969 OLDSMOBILE 4-4-2]

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- --------------433B1C9E31B6
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Anyone know of any 442s for sale in the 440 aea code.  Reply to the
gentleman, Gerald, directly.
Thanks
- -- 

 ---
| | | Brad Nicholson
| | | 1987 442 W-42
|/|\| 1994 Eight Eight LSS
| | | Oldsmobile Club of America #18984
 ---  Oldsmobile Centennial Club - MD
e-Mail: brad442@erols.com
Personal Web Site - http://www.erols.com/brad442
Official OCA Web Site - http://www.erols.com/brad442/oca

- --------------433B1C9E31B6
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From: GPMTRADER@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 1 Oct 1997 12:25:19 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <971001122202_-94230731@emout20.mail.aol.com>
To: brad442@erols.com
Subject: 1969 OLDSMOBILE 4-4-2

I am interested in finding a 1969 Oldsmobile 4-4-2 that is as close to body
style, equipment and color as the one my wife and I owned when we were first
married.

A "spec" sheet is available by "fax" or mail.

Thanks for any help.

Gerald Marisch
440-871-7680 (voice)
440-899-5477 ("fax")
GPMTrader@AOL.com (Email)


- --------------433B1C9E31B6--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 16:20:58 -0400
From: "Bradford W. Nicholson" <brad442@erols.com>
Subject: 307 Intake Manifold Gaskets - Which is best?

Forwarding this to the collective minds of Oldsmobile.  I'd like to know
and answer also as I plan on doing an engine overhaul next year.
=======================================================
Subject: Can You Help Me
  Date:  Wed, 17 Sep 1997 20:57:05 -0500
  From:  Bob Renn <tiadawn@swbell.net>
    To:  brad442@erols.com

We own a 88 Cutlass with the 307. After 92k miles I've gone through two
intake manifold gaskets. Both suffered the same fate, eaten away from
the inside at the back water passage until they leaked. I've changed
anti-freeze (Prestone) every year, flushed, ect, ect.  Is there an after
market gasket or any other secrets. My family has had Oldsmobiles since
1935, we're sold on them. Thank you.    
Bob Renn
======================================
 ---
| | | Brad Nicholson
| | | 1987 442 W-42
|/|\| 1994 Eight Eight LSS
| | | Oldsmobile Club of America #18984
 ---  Oldsmobile Centennial Club - MD
e-Mail: brad442@erols.com
Personal Web Site - http://www.erols.com/brad442
Official OCA Web Site - http://www.erols.com/brad442/oca

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 17:03:14 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: 307 Intake Manifold Gaskets - Which is best?

I would try two things, one, check with summit racing equipment, at 
http://www.summitracing.com and or give them a call, they have re-
usable intake manifold gaskets, save you a few bucks there, second 
thing would be to have your heads decked, might be a defect in the 
heads that is causing your manifold to corrode or warp. Don't mean 
to insult you intelligence, but re you re-tightening the manifold 
bolts after you have the car running for a while? (I have made this 
mistake, thats why I ask. :) 

> Forwarding this to the collective minds of Oldsmobile.  I'd like to know
> and answer also as I plan on doing an engine overhaul next year.
> =======================================================
> Subject: Can You Help Me
>   Date:  Wed, 17 Sep 1997 20:57:05 -0500
>   From:  Bob Renn <tiadawn@swbell.net>
>     To:  brad442@erols.com
> 
> We own a 88 Cutlass with the 307. After 92k miles I've gone through two
> intake manifold gaskets. Both suffered the same fate, eaten away from
> the inside at the back water passage until they leaked. I've changed
> anti-freeze (Prestone) every year, flushed, ect, ect.  Is there an after
> market gasket or any other secrets. My family has had Oldsmobiles since
> 1935, we're sold on them. Thank you.    
> Bob Renn
> ======================================
>  ---
> | | | Brad Nicholson
> | | | 1987 442 W-42
> |/|\| 1994 Eight Eight LSS
> | | | Oldsmobile Club of America #18984
>  ---  Oldsmobile Centennial Club - MD
> e-Mail: brad442@erols.com
> Personal Web Site - http://www.erols.com/brad442
> Official OCA Web Site - http://www.erols.com/brad442/oca
> 
> 
- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 18:12:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: GPMTRADER@aol.com
Subject: Re: NEED info on custom exhaust...

try Brothers Automotive.  They have a WATS number and WEB site

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 17:21:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Subject: Re: Junkyard '78 Delta Royale (Interiors & Southern cars)

> > Hey Kevin I think that in the late 70's Olds was using Volkswagon for
> > their interior parts and Buick wasn't....MAybe thats the difference...

LOL!  After 10 years, you wouldn't believe how badly the instrument panel
top was cracked in my neighbour's '79 300SD Benz.  They felt this was
attributable to the regular use of Armor All, but couldn't offer an
explanation when I indicated that my cars had been similarly treated (BTW,
I now use Son of a Gun).

> you ought to see southern cars....the heat will trash a dash in 5 
> years...thank gawd for garages and dash covers...but what bodies....you 
> can't have everything...Hoagie

I recently returned from a 4300 mile trip to Odessa, TX and back through
Texhoma.  I had the choice of my Uncle's 112,000 mile '88 C*price or my
cousin's 310,000 mile '77 De Ville, so naturally I insisted on the latter.
Carwise, the trip was uneventful: 2 quarts of oil, 2 pounds of air, and
16-17 mpg US.

I was amazed at all the rust-free cars at the used car lots, most for
under $1000.  My Uncle's mother's '83 Cutlass has traveled only 28,000
miles, the body and undercarriage is perfect, but the headliner is already
falling down, despite being parked in a car port.  At hot idle, while in
drive, the oil pressure light comes on - you guessed it, it is equipped
with the 3.8L V6.  <g>

Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 17:42:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: mo@watchesandmore.com
Subject: Seiko,Citizen,Movado 35-75% Off 

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 19:05:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: Injedolds@aol.com
Subject: Re: WHEELS: 50 Olds

 You have a 5 on 5 bolt pattern any gm full size car rear drive will fit the
hub
 hub caps I dont you would have to try with wheel even gm pickup whelis
5 lug 1/2 ton will fit so check for rear spaceing and use whatis closest .
    see ya mike  p.s I also have a 50 olds it a rod  whats yours?? 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 19:43:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Peg O'Connor" <peg@grove.ufl.edu>
Subject: Re: Getting off of this list

> So cry me a river...those FUKENGRUVEN t-shirts drive me nuts.  I'd
> rather have one with a Rocket emblem, but it would have to say
> FUKENMOOVIN' then...

Not a bad idea for a second list T-shirt . . . . 

8)
peg
1978 Cutlass Calais
1986 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 19:46:33 -0400
From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Subject: junkyard finds....

Well I went scrounging through our salvage yard this past Saturday for the
first time in awhile and found some interesting items. First off I find a
1978 Monte Carlo with a transplanted 350 Olds, #6 heads with a 2bbl carb. I
assume this is a 1970 engine? What type of HP numbers? Next I find a 1983
Buick Regal with a Buick 455...the block number checks back to a 1970 Stage
I 455 if I did it right...interesting. Also found a 1975 Cutlass Supreme in
great shape, 350/4bbl...another parts car for the 75 H/O project, up to 4
parts cars now. Now I have 69, 70, 71 and 72 350 engines. Also have 72, 73,
and 74 455 engines. Pretty good parts bin to build my 80 Olds Cutlass drag
car with this winter. Also for the 80 Cutlass I found a totaled 87 Monte
Carlo SS. I can use the 3.73 posi rear, tranny and a few other items off
this 20,000 mile car. Good weekend indeed. 
____________________________________________
Jason Labay - Quality Engineer - TRW Automotive Group
z28cfi@gwis.com  Akron, OH        
95 DCM Impala SS.....14.66 @ 95.5 ; 1.917 60 ft ; 4400lbs
80 Olds 442 W-30.......15.70 @ 88.7 ; 2.200 60 ft ; 3300lbs
75 Hurst/Olds W-25 - (2)..one parts car, one resto car
85 S-10 Blazer 4x4.......work truck, 1,625 watt sound system

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 20:18:41 -0400
From: "Adcock, Jason K." <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: HEI Stuff

Hi everybody.

I wsa reading in the Chilton's tonight and saw that the HEI distributor in
my car (84 CS, 307 V8) requires special spark plug wires.  I was thinking
of replacing them soon.  Do I need to go to GM and get them, or are all
modern wires capable of handling the increased voltage.  Also, are most
current spark plugs capable of the voltage.  Now that I think about it, the
spark plug doesn't matter, right?  Just get them in the correct heat
range?  Thanks much.
- -- 
Jason K. Adcock
jadcock@vt.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 20:32:35 -0400 (EDT)
From: CarrDuff@aol.com
Subject: Re: FW: Frame off

In a message dated 97-10-05 11:42:24 EDT, you write:

<< Steve,
 
 Not to be sorry.  I copied it ot my hard list file.  Thank you.  I thought
 that was part of the benefits of the list.  If I was wrong, I'll destroy
 that file right away.
 
 Bill Culp
 Decatur, Alabama  >>


  No don't destroy it.  I just thought it was long and not eveyone would want
this long document taking up space in their email slot.

  Hope the procedure was clear and you can use it some time.  I have used it
lots of times on mine and freinds cars.  It works very well if you don't have
elaborate lifting facilities.


Steve Dietrich
  S/E PA
    71 442 W30 Conv.
  

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 21:07:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: PaulP34167@aol.com
Subject: Re: Fender Alignment Tricks?

In a message dated 97-10-03 17:40:07 EDT, you write:

> Anybody got any good tips for aligning fenders and hoods? I'm doing this
this 
>  weekend. Olds says 3/16's between fender and door front, I think and 1/8"
>  between fender and hood. 
>  
>  Other than the obvious trial and (mostly) error, what should I do? Should 
>  I find pieces of wood 3/16's and 1/8" thick  as a reference guide?
>  

I would align the fenders to the doors first and then finish w/ the hood.

Paul Pate
Mechanical Design Engineer
Port Neches, Texas
70 Cutlass S (350-4V, TH-350, 12-bolt 3.08)
84 Camaro (LG4 305, TH-700, 10-bolt 3.08)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 21:11:37 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: PLEASE!! Need Advice On Ignitions

I have decided to replace my ignition system in my Cutlass. I want to
know your opinions on the best ignitions. MSD? Accel? Holley? HEI?
Wires? Distributors? I know nothing!!!

What I am looking for is what I can get the most power out of without
burning something up. I'm going for a total engine rebuild and balancing
on my stock '73 350 this winter. I am going to have a GK cam 288°/.470
lift, ported and polished #6 heads with 2.07/1.71 valves and new
valvetrain, Performer RPM Intake, make some carb mods...think that's it.
I want whatever will give me the most power. This car will be a bad
street machine.

Please, I need all the help I can get, as my dad is still stuck in
hot-rod age of the late 60's/early 70's. He doesn't even know what a
Paxton is. I have no knowlegde of ingitions systems so please explain it
to me like I'm some 12 yr/old kid off the street.

Thanx bunches!!!
- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 21:36:52 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mancinj@aol.com
Subject: Re: These Bumperettes

Joel:

By the way, my sled: 1972 Hurst Olds, 196,000 mi. Every option in the book
except for the tilt steering wheel, elec. sunroof, and the digital
tachometer.

- -Jay

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 19:02:48 PDT
From: "John Stolarski" <jahnae@hotmail.com>
Subject: Content-Type: text/plain

I have a '86 Cutlass Supreme w/ the ol' 307 in it, can anyone recommend 
how to put in an Olds 350 and still keep it legal, 
I'm not sure how to deal with the computer either...Any and all 
knowledge on this, or any similar project someone has done would be 
appreciated...
Thanks
John

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 22:07:14 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: HEI Stuff

At 08:18 PM 10/5/97 -0400, you wrote:
Jason

        The difference is in the way they attach to the cap. The HEI cap has
posts on it to hold the wire. The older systems had holes in the cap to hold
the wires.

Jim Chermack 


>Hi everybody.
>
>I wsa reading in the Chilton's tonight and saw that the HEI distributor in
>my car (84 CS, 307 V8) requires special spark plug wires.  I was thinking
>of replacing them soon.  Do I need to go to GM and get them, or are all
>modern wires capable of handling the increased voltage.  Also, are most
>current spark plugs capable of the voltage.  Now that I think about it, the
>spark plug doesn't matter, right?  Just get them in the correct heat
>range?  Thanks much.
>-- 
>Jason K. Adcock
>jadcock@vt.edu
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 22:05:56 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: junkyard finds....

At 07:46 PM 10/5/97 -0400, you wrote:
Jason

        The horsepower for the 70 350 2 bbl engine you found is 250 hp. 9:1
compression.

Jim Chermack



>Well I went scrounging through our salvage yard this past Saturday for the
>first time in awhile and found some interesting items. First off I find a
>1978 Monte Carlo with a transplanted 350 Olds, #6 heads with a 2bbl carb. I
>assume this is a 1970 engine? What type of HP numbers? Next I find a 1983
>Buick Regal with a Buick 455...the block number checks back to a 1970 Stage
>I 455 if I did it right...interesting. Also found a 1975 Cutlass Supreme in
>great shape, 350/4bbl...another parts car for the 75 H/O project, up to 4
>parts cars now. Now I have 69, 70, 71 and 72 350 engines. Also have 72, 73,
>and 74 455 engines. Pretty good parts bin to build my 80 Olds Cutlass drag
>car with this winter. Also for the 80 Cutlass I found a totaled 87 Monte
>Carlo SS. I can use the 3.73 posi rear, tranny and a few other items off
>this 20,000 mile car. Good weekend indeed. 
>____________________________________________
>Jason Labay - Quality Engineer - TRW Automotive Group
>z28cfi@gwis.com  Akron, OH        
>95 DCM Impala SS.....14.66 @ 95.5 ; 1.917 60 ft ; 4400lbs
>80 Olds 442 W-30.......15.70 @ 88.7 ; 2.200 60 ft ; 3300lbs
>75 Hurst/Olds W-25 - (2)..one parts car, one resto car
>85 S-10 Blazer 4x4.......work truck, 1,625 watt sound system
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 22:13:39 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: 

At 07:02 PM 10/5/97 PDT, you wrote:
John

        You can put the 350 in place of the 307 very easily. Just use the
distibutor and carb from the 307 (yes they will work fine) and everything
should bolt right up. You may want to use the 350 exhaust manifolds instead
of the 307's. They may have bigger ports. They will still bolt up to your
existing exhaust. Also use all the accessory brackets from your 307. It
should wake it up a bit.

Jim Chermack


>I have a '86 Cutlass Supreme w/ the ol' 307 in it, can anyone recommend 
>how to put in an Olds 350 and still keep it legal, 
>I'm not sure how to deal with the computer either...Any and all 
>knowledge on this, or any similar project someone has done would be 
>appreciated...
>Thanks
>John
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 22:16:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: DJV442@aol.com
Subject: 71 Cutlass Supreme Conv For Sale

350/4 rebuilt 50k ago,TH350,buckets,console,rally wheels,p/s,p/b.car is white
w/black interior and top,runs/drives great,used daily,has good top and
interior,needs quarters and some door/floor work,looks decent and driveable
as is,power top mechanism works great,frame is good,and car frame is good
also.definetaly restorable or drive as is.good deal for someone at 1800.00 or
b/o....can e-mail direct at DJV442@aol.com.    located in massachusetts

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 23:23:10 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Remote Mirror Repair?

I picked up the remote mirror from that Delta on Friday in the junque
yarde, and while it looks OK, it doesn't work very well. There just isn't
much movement of the mirror when you play with the control. You can move
the mirror itself with your hand in all directions, but the control won't
do the same. It almost seems like maybe the cables have some slack in
them. 

I was able to remove the screw that holds the mechanism to the mirror 
housing and everything looks OK in there. But I don't see any obvious way 
to adjust the thing. Is there anyone who has had success troubleshooting 
these things?

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 97 22:21:33 EDT
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: junkyard finds....

At 07:46 PM 10/5/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Well I went scrounging through our salvage yard this past Saturday for the
>first time in awhile and found some interesting items. First off I find a
>1978 Monte Carlo with a transplanted 350 Olds, #6 heads with a 2bbl carb. I
>assume this is a 1970 engine? What type of HP numbers? Next I find a 1983
>Buick Regal with a Buick 455...the block number checks back to a 1970 Stage
>I 455 if I did it right...interesting. Also found a 1975 Cutlass Supreme in
>great shape, 350/4bbl...another parts car for the 75 H/O project, up to 4
>parts cars now. Now I have 69, 70, 71 and 72 350 engines. Also have 72, 73,
>and 74 455 engines. Pretty good parts bin to build my 80 Olds Cutlass drag
>car with this winter. Also for the 80 Cutlass I found a totaled 87 Monte
>Carlo SS. I can use the 3.73 posi rear, tranny and a few other items off
>this 20,000 mile car. Good weekend indeed. 


   Sounds like a pretty good weekend to me. I'm also curious as to what that
350 Olds with the 2bbl and #6 heads is.

   

    Glenn       
    '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 22:18:05 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Rallye 350 a Hurst?

W30442CS@aol.com wrote:
> 
>   rallye 350 and several years of hurst shareing the w-45 code? maybe there
> is a reason for that mike. it could be that way because the rallye was
> designed by hurst, but never given credit? 

Steve, the 70 Rallye 350 is a Rallye 350(W-45).  Just as the 85 442 is a
442 (W-42).   The W-codes were assigned by Oldsmobile, not Hurst. You
are correct in that Olds wanted a 70 H/O, and the Rallye 350 was the
modified end result of the original 70 H/O design, but for whatever
reason, Hurst and Olds had a love/hate relationship through the years,
and the 70 H/O never was to be.  Olds figured they could do this
themselves in-house (note: the spoiler/ram air, wild graphics), but also
try to rub snake-oil on the insurance carrier's backs at the same time
by offering a performance car, but with a "smaller" and still potent
engine.  So they built the Rallye 350.  

Case in point, the 85 442 was originally supposed to be a follow through
year with the H/O also, but because of whatever tiff (I heard back then
that Olds wasn't going to pay Hurst a bunch of money to use the name),
the 442 got replanned in the final hours, and was scheduled for "442"
production.  It the more sedate look, but with somewhat similar paint
scheming.  The drive train was exactly the same as the 84 H/O, with the
5500 rpm WOT shift-point OZ trans, and "hi-lift" flat-tappet camshaft
(not roller like the "Y" engine).  Heck, I bought mine new and it even
has a "5" stamped over the "4" on the carb year!!!  So they didn't run
out of H/O carbs in 84!

Jon Wessel, the director of the H/O Club of America, and also has been
working at Olds dealerships forever, said that when the 70 Rallye came
in, nobody wanted it.  In stark contrast to the 68 and 69 H/O's, it was
not a good seller.  That was unfortunate, since I think they are a super
cool car myself.  But people weren't going to pay the price tag when
someone could pay a few bucks more for the W-30.  He said some dealers
reverted to replacing the yellow bumpers with chrome ones, just to try
and move the cars off the lot.  What we all wouldn't give to take a time
machine to 1970 to pick up a car that seemingly "nobody wanted"!!!!

If Hurst was going to do the car in 70, do you think they would have
abandoned the 455 after 2 successful sellout years, and people clamoring
for more?  The design concept may have been Hurst's, but I believe the
engine choice was Olds'.  The 350 is a definite respectable V-8 in it's
own right, but it would have been much easier to tweak a 455 for a
little more umph.  The H/O's were supposed to be a specially prepared
"upgrade" for the 442.  NOT designed to take the place of the W-30,
however.

The Rallye holds a special place, for there weren't many of those
produced either.  But if you find an original with chrome
bumpers.....don't misjudge it as a fake right away.....

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 20:32:42 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Small block ex port size;  Was RE: _____

You may want to use the 350 exhaust manifolds
> instead
> of the 307's. They may have bigger ports.

Does anyone have any substantial evidence for this?  I seem to remember
my 260 manifolds being identical to the 403's.  And still larger than
the exhaust ports.  Were the 307's actually smaller, or has this only
been an assumption?  Just curious...
- -- 
    
             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
             Box 524               | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Sidney, Montana 59270 | http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
	     "TRBO LVR" (Maybe???:)| '83 Turbo Regal
               	     Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 22:42:20 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: These Bumperettes

Mancinj@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Joel:
> 
> By the way, my sled: 1972 Hurst Olds, 196,000 mi. Every option in the book
> except for the tilt steering wheel, elec. sunroof, and the digital
> tachometer.
> 
> -Jay

Jay,
Where are you located?  I would like to find someone within a reasonably
close proximity to deal with when I (hopefully) begin to piece my 72
sunroof Hurst together again.  E-mail me privately if you will.  Thank
you.

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, Ky

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 23:18:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Guy wants St. Wheel clock

Talk about history, this guy claims to be heir to the very inventor of the
steering wheel clock!

One of you guys still have one of them?
- -RS-

> From lwiggers@mbs.umd.edu Sat Oct  4 23:18:47 1997
> From: lwiggers@mbs.umd.edu
> To: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
> Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 23:21:58 -0400
> I am writing concerning information on a particular Olds steering wheel.
> My grandfather was a Olds dealer in 1937-mid 50's.  During this time he
> came up with the idea of putting a clock (self winding?) in the center of
> the steering wheel.  It is my understanding that Olds did in fact follow
> his advice and offered this steering wheel as an option on cars during the
> late 40's or early 50's.   Could you, or could you point me in a different
> direction, tell me about this option and where I might find such a wheel?
> Car, year, any leads are appreciated.
>
> I am not an Olds guy, but a fellow car enthusiast as I have owned many GM
> muscle cars and current have an original Model A and original 70 1/2
> Camaro.
>
> Thank you for your help,
>
>      Lane "Wigs" Wiggers
>
>
>
>


- --
Chris  B. Witt
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Oct 1997 00:15:51 -0400
From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Subject: engine rebuild questions

What should I expect to pay to have a 69 or 70 350 engine rebuilt with some
minor performance parts at an engine shop? I would like to achieve 350-370
hp but I am more concerned with a good flat torque curve as this will be a
strip engine. There are several engine shops around me that build engines
but they are mostly chevy/ford/mopar shop. Can I trust one of these shops
to know how to rebuild an Olds engine? Anyone got a recipe for a hot
strip/street 69-70 350 engine that will not cost much over $2000? I can't
build a $10,000 Warren Johnson DRCE block :-) 
____________________________________________
Jason Labay - Quality Engineer - TRW Automotive Group
z28cfi@gwis.com  Akron, OH        
95 DCM Impala SS.....14.66 @ 95.5 ; 1.917 60 ft ; 4400lbs
80 Olds 442 W-30.......15.70 @ 88.7 ; 2.200 60 ft ; 3300lbs
75 Hurst/Olds W-25 - (2)..one parts car, one resto car
85 S-10 Blazer 4x4.......work truck, 1,625 watt sound system

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 23:21:45 -0400
From: "Terry & Tammy" <dawgs@conninc.com>
Subject: Re: Remote Mirror Repair?

Greg I have had the same problem, the only thing I found that made it
work any better was to make sure that all the cables were fastened to
each other really good, so that there is no movement when you try to
move the mirror.. hope this helps
Terry Teague
68 Delta Custom

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 22:21:41 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Guy wants St. Wheel clock

> > I am not an Olds guy, but a fellow car enthusiast as I have owned
> many GM
> > muscle cars and current have an original Model A and original 70 1/2
> > Camaro.
> >

Such a shame, he had ~so much~ going for him, too...  Steering wheel
clock?  Sounds like something the Rockit should get...  Hmmm......

- -- 
    
             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
             Box 524               | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Sidney, Montana 59270 | http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
	     "TRBO LVR" (Maybe???:)| '83 Turbo Regal
               	     Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Oct 1997 00:52:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: My saturday at the drags

In a message dated 97-10-05 11:13:28 EDT, you write:

<< So, now I'm faced with the prospect of acquiring a new tranny.  Any
 reccomendations for rebuild shops in the Wash DC area?  Or nationally?  This
 tranny has been rebuilt once, that may make it a poor candidate for another
 rebuild.  Would any M-20 fit in my Olds? Lastly, what points should I look
for
 in a quality rebuilt 4 sp?
 
 Todd Morris
 71 442
  >>

Todd, I had a tranny shop here tell me that they could put all new M-22 
guts in my M-21 for $750.  I will probably do that one day if I have trouble
with it....TIM

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 13:53:06 -0000
From: "Rod Beydler" <rodsmobile@mscomm.com>
Subject: Re: engine belt tension?

Gates make a belt tension gauge that is well worth the 5 or so bucks it
costs. Any good auto parts store should be able to fix you up.

- ----------
> From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: engine belt tension?
> Date: Sunday, October 05, 1997 4:53 AM
> 
> At 10:39 AM 10/4/97 -0400, you wrote:
> >Just put a new set of GM belts on my 71 4-4-2.  How do you gauge the 
> >correct tension? (there tight believe me).  I remember in high school 
> >auto shop, we had a belt tension gauge.  It was box-shaped and had a 
> >handle on it, with a place to insert the belt.  This was suppose to 
> >register tension.
> 
>     The easiest belt tensioning method is to use the index finger to
deflect
> the belt at the center of the longest run between pulleys 1/2".  This is
> done by applying pressure with one finger just before the point of
> straining.  It's a feel type thing but I'm sure you get the idea.
> Over-tightening belts not only wears them prematurely but puts undo
stress
> on bearings.
> 
> >  Also, where do you 
> >"pry" to tighten-up the power steering belt?  I used a small block of 
> >wood and pried on the P/S fluid tank.  This works, but it makes me 
> >nervous!!!
>  
>     That is the easiest and most often used way to do it.   Using a block
of
> wood or any  other solid but giving material works well.  By applying
> pressure against the tank won't hurt it as long as you disperse or spread
> the pressure exerted against it over  a 1" square area of the tank to
accept
> the load.  So a small piece of wood used with a bar for leverage works
just
> fine.
> 
> 
>   Glenn
>   '69 4-4-2
>     
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Oct 1997 01:06:40 -0400
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: W25

Rocketmen (and Lisa   et al)

	A guy at the local pizza shop has a mid 70's Cutlass with W25 badges.
Can anyone tell me what it is ?????


					The General

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Oct 1997 01:15:49 -0400 (EDT)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stupid Timing Chain Question

In a message dated 97-10-05 16:20:30 EDT, you write:

<< > The block is disassembled and the heads are off and it is time to
install
 
 > the cam and timing chain.  The book says to bring #1 to TDC on the 
 > compression stroke but when the heads are off there isn't a compression 
 > stroke or is there and if so, how does one figure it out.  Then for a 
 > straight up installation align the dots with the dowel pin at the top but
 
 > if the dowel pin is at the top the lifters are not on the heels of the 
 > cam and the valves will not be closed. AAARgh.. I knew I should never 
 > have read the book... A succinct explanation and description of how to 
 > install the timing chain would be most helpful...Thanks 
 > 
  >>
Al , since its the cam that controls the compression stroke the heads 
are not required for the installation. TDC is TDC on the block, or I should
say on the crank, as in it is in the same position for either. Someone??
Wouldn't it be possible to install the timing gear 180 degrees off, this
being 
TDC/exhaust instead of TDC/compression, and then doing the same with 
the distributer, not that that would be practical, just possible?
  The key element here is to be in sink, or dot to dot with the crank gear,
can gear combination....

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Oct 1997 06:11:26 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: W25

>         A guy at the local pizza shop has a mid 70's Cutlass with W25 badges.
> Can anyone tell me what it is ?????

W-25 I believe, and being no expert in the mid-70's models, was the
designator for the 442 package.  The "badges" were actually decals.  I
never knew of any die-cast "W" designators save for the 70-72 models. 
The W-30 designator, from 73 all the way up to 79 was available as the
H/O.  I think.  Memory gets hazy, since I don't see that many mid 70's
performance vehicles running around.  Something in my subconcious is
telling me that the W-25 decals were on the front fenders toward the
front.  I think I've seen this on some cars somewhere.....

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Oct 1997 07:31:26 -0400
From: "Adcock, Jason K." <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: W25

Patton wrote:
 
>         A guy at the local pizza shop has a mid 70's Cutlass with W25 badges.
> Can anyone tell me what it is ?????

Doesn't W-25 designate a "scaled-down" 442 (ie. not a W-30)?  From posts on
the list, I gathered that the W-25 was kind of an appearance package,
including the OAI hood, spoiler, etc.  Not sure about the engine.   Might
be a 455.

- -- 
Jason K. Adcock
jadcock@vt.edu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Oct 1997 07:52:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: R4C442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds Centenial makes print

Hey Dan,
    Are you going to the Red Brick Rally over at Oxford on the 12th? If so,
the Gem City Rockets will be located at J.D. Jones barbershop near the middle
of town. Just look for a bunch of neato Oldsmobiles!
                                                      Ron Forsee 65
442-Meister

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Oct 1997 08:12:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: AllNiteLng@aol.com
Subject: Re: Hot Starting Problems

> being charged on a battery charger so would it not be the same in the car?

Very true, but this was just more than a boil. This baby looked like you just
dropped a 
piece of chicken in a deep fat fryer. 


    Hmmmmmm, Sulfuric Fried Chicken, now thats a new one!

    Ed

1966 Delta '88
1980 Toronado Diesel

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Oct 1997 08:11:38 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: PLEASE!! Need Advice On Ignitions

Watch the duration on the cam, thats how I killed my 78 Olds 88. You 
going be changing the pistons out I asume? If thats the case, I 
wouldn't worry about it too much. I was in the MORE POWER greed phase 
and had a little to much cam for the stock equipment.

> on my stock '73 350 this winter. I am going to have a GK cam 288°/.470
> lift, ported and polished #6 heads with 2.07/1.71 valves and new
> valvetrain, Performer RPM Intake, make some carb mods...think that's it.
> I want whatever will give me the most power. This car will be a bad
> street machine.
> 

- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Oct 1997 09:54:11 -0400
From: "VanSant, David CWO" <DVanSant@lantd5.uscg.mil>
Subject: RE: Hot Starting Problems

Try using a solenoid heat shield.  They're available in the "Help" parts
section of most auto parts stores.  I had the same problem with a '74
C/S that I had modified.  It seems that the exhaust tubes run a little
too close to the starter and heat soak the solenoid.

My .02


Dave Van Sant
dvansant@lantd5.uscg.mil
'71 Topless Cutlass Supreme
'88 Plymouth Sundance
'89 Chevrolet Astro
'96 Plymouth Neon DOHC


>----------
>From: 	Greg Kalkhoff[SMTP:gkalkhof@execpc.com]
>Sent: 	Saturday, 1997 October, 04 00:04 14:21
>To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: 	Hot Starting Problems
>
>Greetings from the Dark Side!
>
>For the second time in as many days, the Winter Beater (67 Toro) left me
>sitting!!! I'm 
>NOT really likin' that!  ):
>
>The car starts excellent when cold. I drove 3 miles to the gas station,
>turned it off,
>filled it up, and tried to start it. It went, "Errrr Err Er....CLICK CLICK
>CLICK!" There
>I sat, with a full tank of gas and can't go anywhere!  ):
>
>This happened the other day which is why I put a new starter in it yesterday.
>Guess that 
>wasn't it afterall.
>
>If the car sits for a long while (cools off significanlty), it starts right
>up. Today, I
>didn't have time to wait, plus it was 87 degrees here today, so I called my
>buddy to jump
>me. With the jump, it fired right up! When I got home, I shut if off and
>tried to start
>it right away....click click click.....NOTHING!
>
>What I have done so far: (besides alot of cussing)
>
>1. New starter
>2. Newer 1000 amp battery
>3. All cables and connectors are shiny clean.
>4. Positive junction block cleaned
>5. I even by-passed the cables and used jumper cables from the battery to the
>positive
>   junction block and the frame. (in effect taking the car's battery cables
>out of the 
>   loop)
>
>When I get home, I throw the battery charger on it and the needle is pinned
>to full
>charge! However, a load test may be indicated here.
>
>What I haven't done.
>
>1. Cleaned the negative contact on the engine block (thats a bear as I
>remember).
>
>There is ONE odd thing though:
>
>The ammeter does not seem to do anything. It just sits in the middle
>regardless of draw
>or charge. This sounds fishy to me!
>
>Could the alternator be somehow connected to this problem (even assuming it
>IS charging
>the battery?). I assume it's charging the battery, because I drove home last
>night with
>the lights on and it fired right up this morning. And, the charger shows full
>charge.
>
>However, when I start the car with the headlights and courtesy lights on,
>they all go out
>as soon as I hit the key. So, there has to be an enormous draw somewhere or a
>bad
>contact or bad cell in the battery!?!?
>
>Any ideas? We may have to resurrect the HEAT SOAK string again?  LOL!
>
>As usual...TIA!
>
>PS...I'm on the list, so all replys can be sent here.
>
>Sparky
>--
>Greg Kalkhoff                                        See the Sparkmobile
>Toronado FAQ Administrator
>http://www.442.com/kalkhoff.html
>http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/torofaqs.htm
>AKA "Sparky"
>
>
>
>
>-- 
>Greg Kalkhoff                                        See the Sparkmobile
>Toronado FAQ Administrator
>http://www.442.com/kalkhoff.html
>http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/torofaqs.htm
>AKA "Sparky"
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Oct 1997 10:04:24 -0400
From: "VanSant, David CWO" <DVanSant@lantd5.uscg.mil>
Subject: RE: WHEELS: 50 Olds

I'm not sure if you've already tried it, but there are radial inner
tubes available in about 90 percent of the sizes currently on the road.
That way you could keep your original steel wheels and get the radial
ride.


Dave Van Sant
dvansant@lantd5.uscg.mil
'71 Topless Cutlass Supreme
'88 Plymouth Sundance
'89 Chevrolet Astro
'96 Plymouth Neon DOHC


>----------
>From: 	BigEJ@aol.com[SMTP:BigEJ@aol.com]
>Sent: 	Saturday, 1997 October, 04 10:34 14:21
>To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: 	WHEELS: 50 Olds
>
>Hope someone on this list has some advice here.  My 50 is presently running
>radials on the original rims.  A combination much better than bias plys on
>those rims!  Anyone who has driven a 50s car with bias ply tires will agree,
>I'm sure!!
>
>However I'm not happy with this combination because the wheels flex and they
>are not designed for tubeless tires.  Here's the question; Does any one know
>what late model 15" steel wheels will will fit this car so I can run radials
>and the original full wheel discs??   I would like to keep the car as close
>to original as possible, but it's a driver more than a show car.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Elephant Engine Ernie
>
>67 442
>50  88
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Oct 1997 08:06:34 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: 307 Intake Manifold Gaskets - Which is best?

This seems to be a real problem with Old's and Aluminum intake manifolds.  I
haven't had a problem using the stock Fel-Pro replacement, with a few
dollops of RTV on the end of the seals (where the block meets the heads).
Clean things good and torque properly.  If that doesn't work, I've heard of
two other tricks.  The first one, suggested on this list, is to replace the
front and rear rubber seals with a bead of RTV.  The second suggestion is
one I saw Joe Mondello doing in a 455 buildup in Car Craft a few years ago.
He used a punch and made two rows of "dimples" on the end rails (where the
rubber gasket goes).

I'd probably try the RTV suggestion first, less permanent damage.  If you
still have problems, maybe your intake manifold is warped.

Bradford W. Nicholson wrote:

> We own a 88 Cutlass with the 307. After 92k miles I've gone through two
> intake manifold gaskets. Both suffered the same fate, eaten away from
> the inside at the back water passage until they leaked. I've changed

- --
Tom Lentz, tlentz@ior.com                          '84 Hurst/Olds
http://www.ior.com/~tlentz                         '78 Cutlass Supreme
Network Admin, CPM Corp, Spokane, WA.              '78 Chev 1/2ton (Olds
350)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Oct 1997 10:13:41 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: FOR ALL TO SEE, other olds list

Hey guys and gals, just thought I would let you know that there is an 
oldsmobile bulletin board on the olds web site where you can post 
messages too, don't know if this is old news or new news, but, 
thought I would make you aware of it regardless. Here is the url for 
it.

http://www.oldsmobile98.com/owning/community/cutlass/index.cgi

- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Oct 1997 11:24:33 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: W25

The W-25 was the code for the Outside Air Induction (OAI) package you
are thinking about for 70-72 Cutlass/442/Vista Cruiser. (Yes, Vista
Cruiser!)  It could have been had on any A bodied Oldsmobile during
those years.  Came with the fiberhood, ram-air cleaner, and hood scoop
stripes.  That's it.  It was a "standard" option with the W-30/31
packages.  The post was relating to W-25 emblems/decals on the outside
of the car for a mid-70's Cutlass.  BTW, there is no such thing as a
"scaled-down" 442.  Unless of course you're talking about the new
Lindbergh model......

Mike Rothe
> 
> Doesn't W-25 designate a "scaled-down" 442 (ie. not a W-30)?  From posts on
> the list, I gathered that the W-25 was kind of an appearance package,
> including the OAI hood, spoiler, etc.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Oct 1997 11:31:24 +0000
From: "Rick" <richardc@equitrac.com>
Subject: Re: Hot Starting Problems

I have the same problem with my 350. I have header and some goodies. 
What happens is I installed Electric fans and when I shut the car off 
I let them run for about 5 min and the car will start right up. I 
also had this  prob. when my timing was too high,
 1964 Olds 442 350 Rocket 

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #887
********************************

