
oldsmobile-digest    Wednesday, September 10 1997    Volume 01 : Number 841



Re: Do you own a W-455 intake? help!
Window Regulators (was: Questions)
Olds sale
'66 Toronado
Re: Ashburn passes away
Suspension Question
Re: Compression increase, how to....
Re: funny looking bracket
Re: Window Regulators (was: Questions)
1982 Cutlass Partz Needed
Re: Do you own a W-455 intake? help!
Re: rear ends
WANTED: 12 bolt posi
Re: Engine tuning
wtd: headers for 65 F85/330
wanted: ram air
wtd: 7040256 carb
Testing Heater Cores?
FOR SALE!..  Olds. small block "supply"
Re: Re[2]: '70 Olds 442
Re: BB Edelbrock Heads?
Re: Suspension Question
Re: Plastic Chrome
Re: Engine tuning
Re: BB Edelbrock Heads?
Re: Bogging?
Re: Do you own a W-455 intake? help!
UNBOUNCE: Re: BB Edelbrock Heads?
ADMIN: Netcom Advice Needed
Re: Overhauling 455...  Am I crazy?  NO WAY!!!
Re: ADMIN: Netcom Advice Needed
Re: Bogging?
Re: Testing Heater Cores?
Unsubscribe
hydraulic lifters
Re: Do you own a W-455 intake? help!
RE: Testing Heater Cores?
Re: Do you own a W-455 intake? help!
Cars & Parts
Beverly Hills Motoring ?
Car Covers
Re: Bogging?
NONOLDS BOSTON Area People 
Re: Beverly Hills Motoring ?
RE: Testing Heater Cores?
Re[2]: Do you own a W-455 intake? help!
Re: MUFFLERS
Re: I need a nipple
RE: rear ends
Re: Parts wanted
Re: hydraulic lifters
Re: Suspension Question
RE: Illinois Bone Yards
lotsa rim questions
'85+ 442 wheels
Re[2]: hydraulic lifters
Re: hydraulic lifters
Valley Tray
Olds Digest CD-ROM
Re: 8 Track player question
Re: new to list

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 19:26:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin Hoopingarner <khooping@bright.net>
Subject: Re: Do you own a W-455 intake? help!

RC,  

My nipple sticks out exactly 7/8".  The nipple wall is too thin to be
threaded and has got to be a press fit.
With a flashlight, and mind you it doesn't work very well, the hole in the
intake appears to have a step in it which sets the depth of the nipple.  

Anyone have an intake off with the nipple removed?? 

I looked at my parts book and have not yet been able to see a picture of the
nipple itself.  Thus no part #


Kevin Hoopingarner
'70 Olds 442 W-30
Findlay OH.





>
>MY QUESTION(S):
>
>Does this "hose nipple" looked tapped in or threaded in?


>
>How far does it stick out of the intake?
>
>I'm trying to keep everything *stock*.  Man!  Is this frustrating!  :(
>As mentioned in my previous post, I desperately need to find this 
>part!!!
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>RC Hellebuyck
>1971 4-4-2 covt.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Sep 97 15:22:42 -0500
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Window Regulators (was: Questions)

Bill Culp wrote:
     
Certainly,  Joe must be correct.
            ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
     
     Note to Tim Churchill:
     
     I really _like_ this guy ;-)
     
     Seriously,  like you, assumed the mechanisms must be the same.  The 
     parts book indicated otherwise, though I do not claim to ever have 
     laid the two side-by-side to compare them (it's not like I'd ever 
     actually _own_ a post car)  (Yes, that was for Chris' benefit)
     
     I share Mike Rothe's curiosity about the ability to convert the 
     manual regulators to power by removing the manual crank gear and 
     adding the motor from the power units.  The illustration in the parts 
     book is nowhere near detailed enough to answer this question.  All I 
     can suggest is to simply (?!) disassemble the driver's door on the 
     sport coupe and compare the regulator to that on the holiday coupe.
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30
     
     
     
     

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 19:37:11 -0400
From: Frank <plpaudio@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Olds sale

Hey All,
Havent been on the list for a while as I havent had time,I am selling
evrything olds related due to time and space constraints that have
recently developed,I dont have the space or time for projects anymore so
I need to move evrything out and go to the finished product.I have tons
of small parts and stuff which I dont have time to list or catalog but
will all go together.I am not retiring from Olds just taking a
sabbatical.
Thanks to the webmaster and all the rest and hope to one day be back
among you..
Sincerely,
Frank Gonzalez

1970 442 ,455 ,400, disassembled,,,  1971 Cutlass S 350\350 , not
running,,, 1972 Convertible, 455, 400, dissasembled,good top, new
floors, new suspension, engine all new parts ,repro ramair  hood and
wing,, needs assembly, extra 350 ,extra 455  ,garage full of parts both
exterior and interior for 70-72 Cutlasses, damaged 70 ramair hood.2 sets
extra rims.. Want to sell to Olds restorer\enthusiast not parts
place.$5000obo for all or trade for 71\72 442 in decent
shape….305-858-6758 or email plpaudio@ix.netcom.com(will not split up or
part anything out so dont ask).....

PS: please refer inquires directly to me via email or phone as I dont
check the list. Thanks..

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 20:16:08 -0400
From: Gren <gren@sources.com>
Subject: '66 Toronado

help!

i have an ALUMINUM 1966 toronado deluxe and can't find any information
on it.  any info would be greatly appreciated.

thanks,

gz


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 20:29:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: CarrDuff@aol.com
Subject: Re: Ashburn passes away

This effects us here in Philadelphia more than anywhere.  I'm not really a
baseball "Die hard" but it's sad to see him go.

It's nice that he got into the Hall of Fame while still with us.  He passed
away knowing he was regonized as one of the best in baseball.

Steve Dietrich
  S/E Phila.
    71 442 W30 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 17:37:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Subject: Suspension Question

My interchange manual doesn't tell me whether A body and B or C body
rear suspension members (trailing arms) interchange. Anybody know?

I think they don't, but thought I'd check. I just keep looking at
all those repro suspension pieces and thinking I'd love to replace my
multi-hundred thousand mile pieces with something new. 

Thanks in advance
cf

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 20:43:48 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Compression increase, how to....

Igor wrote:
> 
>         I'd like to know how to increase the compression on my '81 Delta 88 307
> stock.  I read once that heads from certain engines will do that.  If heads
> will do it, what heads would work.  Since I am planing to get rid of this
> motor soon, this would have to be a used part, so that I can afford it.  If
> the compression is increased any other way, how is it done.   What kind of
> power increase could I expect.  I think that the engine now puts of 150hp
> and 225f/pound tourque.  Thanks in advance.
> 
> Igor Todorovic
> 1981 Delta 88 307
> 1995 Intrepid 3.3
> 1976 Delta 88 455

Try this spot on the Olds FAQ:
http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/ofhed.htm#HEADS 1964 - 1990 Combustion
Chambers, CC's, Interchange

- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoft© Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 21:04:58 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: funny looking bracket

mrhell@m1.sprynet.com wrote:
 
> This is the part I need, bracket A!
> 
> Now that I have everyone totally confused, I ask that someone please
> have this part!

I know exactly which funny looking bracket you are referring to.  In
fact, I just spent the last 1/2 hour tearing my garage apart looking for
the box that has (had) one of these in it.  It contained various vacuum
hoses and wiring harnesses, one of those servo units with the rod and
BOTH of those funny looking brackets.  But I can't find it.  I'm
thinking I threw it out when we moved 2 years ago (whick broke the First
Commandment, Thou Shalt Not Throw Away Anything Oldsmobile Related). 
All I can find are my 2 1/2 spare regulators and some misc. wiring
harness pieces.

But have you tried the local bone yard?  One of these brackets from a
Delta or a 98 will work, and the chances of finding one of these bigger
cars with Cruise is probably 100 times greater than finding another
Cutlass with Cruise.  I needed the servo bracket for mine and went and
got one off of a Delta at the boneyard.

What about that brake switch bracket, do you have that?  That's the
really hard part to find.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible, Cruise Control Equipped

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 16:32:57 -0700
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Window Regulators (was: Questions)

padavano.joe wrote:
> 
>      Seriously,  like you, assumed the mechanisms must be the same.  The
>      parts book indicated otherwise, though I do not claim to ever have
>      laid the two side-by-side to compare them (it's not like I'd ever
>      actually _own_ a post car)  (Yes, that was for Chris' benefit)

Hmmm...  That is ok, more for me! :-)

>      I share Mike Rothe's curiosity about the ability to convert the
>      manual regulators to power by removing the manual crank gear and
>      adding the motor from the power units.  The illustration in the parts
>      book is nowhere near detailed enough to answer this question.  All I
>      can suggest is to simply (?!) disassemble the driver's door on the
>      sport coupe and compare the regulator to that on the holiday coupe.

I am just guessing that since the motors would be the same, the
regulators
from either would have to attach to the motor accordingly.  I wouldn't 
assume that Olds would have made a regulator for power applications and
one
for crank.  I could be wrong.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 19:36:22 -0500
From: gilly24-7@juno.com (Gabe G Gilsrud)
Subject: 1982 Cutlass Partz Needed

Hello...
I am looking (not desperately) for interior parts, chrome fender trim,
and the plastic chrome bumper trim strips for a 1982 Cutlass Supreme.
Also, if anyone has the Vacuum Diagrams for a 1982 3.X Litre olds I would
like to get a copy of them.
Please take my word...I'm 17 and I need to get a real deal on these partz
if possible.

Thanx in advance...

- -Gabe G. Gilsrud
Gilly24-7@juno.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 22:15:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: Do you own a W-455 intake? help!

In a message dated 97-09-09 16:51:59 EDT, you write:

<< Does this "hose nipple" looked tapped in or threaded in?
 
 How far does it stick out of the intake?
 
 I'm trying to keep everything *stock*.  Man!  Is this frustrating!  :(
 As mentioned in my previous post, I desperately need to find this 
 part!!!
 
 Thanks in advance. >>
Ok, I can help, for one the nipple is pressed in.  second thing is that the
nipple isnt exclusive to Alum W intakes.  71 and 72 4 speed 442's and big
block Cutlass's have
a cast iron intake that uses the same nipple.  4 speeds had this because the
air cleaner was a dual snorkle and so the pcv did go from the intake to carb.
 As for the heighth of the nipple, it is approxiamately 1 to 1 1/4 inches.

I hope this help, sorry no extra intakes to rob here

W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
two 1972 442 W-30's

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 22:20:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: rear ends

In a message dated 97-09-09 15:48:08 EDT, you write:

<< Second my 72 chassis manual lists all the spec's for the axle ratios and
 how many teeth the ring is supposed to have. Well, this diff has 2.73
 ratio, that  means that the ring gear has 41 teeth and the pinion gear
 has 15. Now the manual says that the 3.42 ratio uses a 41 ring gear
 also. If I change the pinion gear to a 12 tooth and keep my 41 ring gear
 will it work? 
  >>
if the rearend is out of a 72 or 71 then it is a 8.5 rearend with the axles
bolted in.
as for the ring gear set, you can not mix and match them.  if you do, the
rearend will howl like crazy.  If you are using a later corporate 7.5 it also
bolts in or can use c clips.  best thing to do is buy a new ring and pinion
and also an installation kit containing new bearings and shims.

W MACHINES

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 22:22:31 +0000
From: mackk@netinc.ca
Subject: WANTED: 12 bolt posi

I am looking for a complete 3.73-3.91 12 bolt posi for my (hopefully)
'72 4-4-2. I am looking for one that hopefully doesn't need to be
rebuilt. I am not worried about the brakes or drums. I'm in Hamilton,
ON, CAN.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 22:32:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine tuning

 check your initial timing, and are you getting good spark, wires can be
ohmed out and an HEI distributer might be a very good replacement if you have
original points. you can get an hei distrib.used pretty cheap small block
will fit. i run a pretty radical 455 with a 780 holly vac secondary runs real
good .

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 22:55:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: wtd: headers for 65 F85/330

Please reply TO THE SENDER, as he's probably not a list reader...
- -RS-

> From XNY89@aol.com Wed Sep  3 17:28:36 1997
> Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 17:28:04 -0400 (EDT)
>
> i was wondering if you guys could help me find headers for a 1965 F-85
> Cutlass with a 330 engine.  Any information that you could tell me that would
> help me locate the headers would be most helpful.
> THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME

I told him Hooker probably has 'em for $400...

- --
Chris  B. Witt
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 23:05:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: wanted: ram air

 hi guys im looking for a 71-72 original ram air hood

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 23:19:35 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: wtd: 7040256 carb

Again, replies to THIS GUY that sent this to me, NOT TO ME or the list, eh?
I have no interest in this, just helping him find his carb.

> From caddad@pacbell.net Tue Sep  9 23:05:18 1997
> Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 18:37:10 -0700
> Reply-To: caddad@pacbell.net
> To: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
>
> looking for rochestor 4bbl carburetor number 7040256, new ,used,
> rebuilt, whatever, please contact
> Randy
> caddad@pacbell.net

- --
Chris  B. Witt
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 17:38:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Subject: Testing Heater Cores?

Does anyone know a good way to pressure test a heater core? Mine started 
leaking today and I have one in the garage, but I recall that it leaked
too. Is there a good way to pressure test one out of the car? I mean short
of pulling it out, starting the motor, getting it warm and waiting for it
to spray?

headed for a radiator shop I guess...
cf

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 23:27:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: CRuper1@aol.com
Subject: FOR SALE!..  Olds. small block "supply"

Well, since I've decided that I'm going to play with the big boys, and step
up to a big block, I've decided that I would like to sell off all my small
block stuff.  I've got quite a bit of stuff, and I would like to sell it all
together, but would certainly entertain decent offers for parts of it.  As
far as total worth, I've got approx. $650 into the parts, without any labor
figured in (cleaning parts, etc.....), and when all is said and done, I'd
like to get at least that out of it.  I figured I'd offer this to the list
people, and if I get no bites, I'll put an ad in the paper and hope I find a
good home for the parts.  I'm entertaining all "respectable" offers, since
I'm "funding" my big block build-up.  If anybodys interested, you can leave
me e-mail (CRuper1@aol.com), or call me at home (815)624-2827.

Anyways, here's a list of the stuff I have:

1977 "350" motor, non-windowed mains, bored .060 in. over, new cam bearings
(block was hot tanked), needs line boring for the crank (costs approx. $100
to do)

1974 "350" motor, non-windowed mains, stock bore

1981 "260" motor, in need of "going through", needs a crank (see below for
options)

.060 in. oversize cast alum. pistons, stock compression, mated to stock rods,
includes cast iron rings (should go with block listed above)

(7) piston/rod assemblies, stock sizes, the 8th one bit the dust (during use,
of course...), otherwise ok shape, should be checked good before use....

3 cranks "350's", 1 good, one in need of polishing, one a good candidate for
core/turning undersize

2 stock intake manifolds, EGR style ('77, and '74 manifolds)

1 stock intake DIVORCED CHOKE! (no carb for it :(...  ), but in decent shape,
choke mechanism seems to move, etc., needs to be cleaned

1 set #8 heads, decent shape

1 pair smallblock exhaust manifolds...

1 set #4 heads, look good, need cleaning (attached to a set of smallblock
exhaust manifolds..)

1974 points type distributor

Edelbrock Performer intake manifold, good shape

Plus a myriad of small stuff (oil pans, etc...) to go with all this
stuff.....  I've got boxes of parts in the garage (right Mr. Martin?).

Thanks,
Chris.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 20:19:47 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Re[2]: '70 Olds 442

While I don't live in a climate quite as wet as you guys do - i keep a tarp
on my car's on occasion.  I just make sure that on a frequent basis - every
2 days or so - I take the tarp off and let it all breath and/or dry out.
I'll keep it on for the duration its raining and when it stops, the tarp
comes off so the car & tarp can dry.  Of course, this is Calif. winters,
not back east.  The plastic spacing device sounds pretty good though.

Good luck 

Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass (Ruby)
'66 Toronado (LA Woman)
'67 Delta 88 Custom  (Tizzy)
'69 Toronado (Toro II)
'72 Vista Cruiser (VC)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 22:43:34 -0700
From: "Forrest Johnson" <johnson@edisongroup.com>
Subject: Re: BB Edelbrock Heads?

smardale@airmail.net wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Before I blow a BIG wad of cash on a set of Batten Heads, I was wondering
> what anyone's heard anything else recently about Edelbrock's plans for
> making aluminum heads for our beasts of choice?  On a related note, does
> anyone know what the largest valves Batten (or Edelbrock for that matter)
> will let you use? These iddy-bitty (for all intents and purposes,
> small-block caliber) valves we're forced to use on our (even modified) BB
> heads are beginning to really get me steamed.
> 
> TIA!
> 
> Scott Martindale
> smardale@airmail.net
> 1965 442 Hoilday Coupe
> 1965 442 Convertible


I talked with a rep about many Olds items that they could produce
and if they had any plans to build any.  He told me there wasn't a large
enough market to produce these items !!!!!  I was leaning on the 
alum. head market, but he didn't want to talk Olds, only Ch*vy, F*rd
and a M*par or two.  SO, unless things have changed since last October,
Batten is still the only aftermarket solution.  

Forrest
68 Cutlass (3)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 00:02:03 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Suspension Question

At 05:37 PM 9/9/97 -0700, you wrote:
>
>My interchange manual doesn't tell me whether A body and B or C body
>rear suspension members (trailing arms) interchange. Anybody know?
>
>I think they don't, but thought I'd check. I just keep looking at
>all those repro suspension pieces and thinking I'd love to replace my
>multi-hundred thousand mile pieces with something new. 
>
>Thanks in advance
>cf
>

Chris

        Nope. Completely different animal. Even all the A-bodies and
G-bodies are different.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 00:11:08 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Plastic Chrome

At 05:06 AM 9/9/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Thanks for this info Jim!  Hopefully they can do door panels?!?
>
>RC Hellebuyck
>1971 4-4-2 covt.
>

        If your talking about the small chrome strips on the door panel
forget it. They can do the armrest back plates.

Jim

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 00:48:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine tuning

i had another thought check to see after running the car and turning it off
if the carburator leeks gas into the manifold . you may be dumping all the
fuel in the bowl into the engine. this will make it real hard to start and
maybe you have to pump the gas so many times because there is no gas left in
the carb. good luck.

      joe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 00:46:56 -0400
From: "Eric T. Brubakken" <ebrubak@ix14.ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: BB Edelbrock Heads?

Forrest Johnson wrote:
> 
> smardale@airmail.net wrote:
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > Before I blow a BIG wad of cash on a set of Batten Heads, I was wondering
> > what anyone's heard anything else recently about Edelbrock's plans for
> > making aluminum heads for our beasts of choice?  On a related note, does
> > anyone know what the largest valves Batten (or Edelbrock for that matter)
> > will let you use? These iddy-bitty (for all intents and purposes,
> > small-block caliber) valves we're forced to use on our (even modified) BB
> > heads are beginning to really get me steamed.
> >
> > TIA!
> >
> > Scott Martindale
> > smardale@airmail.net
> > 1965 442 Hoilday Coupe
> > 1965 442 Convertible
> 
> I talked with a rep about many Olds items that they could produce
> and if they had any plans to build any.  He told me there wasn't a large
> enough market to produce these items !!!!!  I was leaning on the
> alum. head market, but he didn't want to talk Olds, only Ch*vy, F*rd
> and a M*par or two.  SO, unless things have changed since last October,
> Batten is still the only aftermarket solution.
> 
> Forrest
> 68 Cutlass (3)
Could someone get me the address and phone number to Batten?

Thanks

Eric
ebrubak@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 00:16:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Subject: Re: Bogging?

Hi Chris,

> When I drive to work in the morning and my DRB is basically cold,
> when I accelerated in "D" the car sort of bogs down as if it has no
> power.  If I drive the car, like I normally do, like a stick and shift
> from 1 to 2 to 3 myself I don't get that bog.  Any clues?

My guess is that your carburetor runs a bit lean just above idle, and by
manually changing gears, the engine stays at a high enough RPM to avoid
this problem.  In its completely original state (i.e. carburetor with the
idle plugs still present), my '83 Delta 88 also exhibited this tendency
when cold.  Increasing throttle until the power system came into play
restored acceleration.  The bog was not present at normal operating
temperatures.  One solution might have been to richen the idle mixture
above the ridiculously lean factory settings, since the idle ports also
contribute to the mixture at low throttle openings.  In essence,
this would be filling the void in the 1000-1500 rpm range.

Instead, I decided to make a small adjustment to the main metering screw:
part throttle operation when cold, aside from the bog, was still a little
anemic, so I guessed that the economy setting of the power system was a
touch too economical; I had previously fabricated a tool from some
sheetmetal to adjust the metering screw without removing the air horn;
from disassembled Q-jets, I knew exactly where the hidden plug in the air
horn was situated (front middle, slightly obstructed by the air cleaner
gasket); I was comfortable with the "drill a hole and extract with a self
tapping screw" routine.  Also, it was far easier than removing the
carburetor and chiseling out the brass plugs <g>.  One turn
counter-clockwise eliminated the cold bog, and light throttle warm
operation became more responsive.  Fuel economy has not changed.

This assumes you have a non-computer controlled carburetor.  A C-3 system
lacks a vacuum operated power piston, and runs with a fixed M/C dwell when
cold.  Adjustments to the M/C solenoid may be the key in this case.

Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 04:46:21 -0400 (EDT)
From: CarrDuff@aol.com
Subject: Re: Do you own a W-455 intake? help!

In a message dated 97-09-09 16:52:16 EDT, you write:

<< ubj:	 Do you own a W-455 intake? help!
 Date:	97-09-09 16:52:16 EDT
 From:	mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
 Sender:	oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
 Reply-to:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
 To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
 
 If any of you out there have a W-455 aluminum intake, please help.  If 
 your vacuum lines are run correctly, the PCV valve/hose should run from 
 the base of the carb, to a hose nipple on the front of the intake.  
 (This "nipple" is just behind and to the left of the thermostat 
 housing.)
 
 MY QUESTION(S):
 
 Does this "hose nipple" looked tapped in or threaded in?
 
 How far does it stick out of the intake?
 
 I'm trying to keep everything *stock*.  Man!  Is this frustrating!  :(
 As mentioned in my previous post, I desperately need to find this 
 part!!!
 
 Thanks in advance.
 
 RC Hellebuyck
 1971 4-4-2 covt.
  >>

  I have mine packed away in the basement.  I'll go down in a little shile
and look @ all the connections and sent a note back shortly.

Steve Dietrich
  S/E PA
   71 442 W30 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 06:36:01 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Re: BB Edelbrock Heads?

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date:	Wed, 10 Sep 1997 00:46:56 -0400
From:	"Eric T. Brubakken" <ebrubak@ix14.ix.netcom.com>

Could someone get me the address and phone number to Batten?

Thanks

Eric
ebrubak@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 06:47:54 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: ADMIN: Netcom Advice Needed

Since the list went closed a couple of weeks ago we've had surprisingly 
few problems with non-member posts. However, one member with a Netcom 
address keeps getting messages bounced because majordomo thinks he isn't 
a member. The reason is that his address seems to change daily. Other 
Netcom accounts on here are in the form "user@ix.netcom.com" but this 
user's address has a domain that looks like "@ix##.ix.netcom.com" where 
the "ix##" changes regularly. Since the ## is never the same as the one 
on file with majordomo it bounces his posts. Netcom seems to assign a 
different "ix##" address every time he's logged on.

Anyone have any idea how to avoid this and have his address treated like 
all the other Netcom addresses?

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 05:33:31 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Overhauling 455...  Am I crazy?  NO WAY!!!

>>Well, it might be *slightly* more reasonable with fuel; driving style will
>>make all the difference. Expect 14-16 mpg highway, if you feather-foot it.
>>8-10 mpg if you have fun with it (which is going to be hard to resist... :)

You can do better with the mileage.  If your engine is built to match
the drivetrain, expect better.  A stock 1976 Delta 88 and 98 was factory
rated at 12 city and 18 highway for the 455 and 13 city and 17 highway
for the 350.  I had a 350 and that is a right on for city driving (I
drove it for Domino's and only got 12 no matter how I drove!  <g>) and I
bested 23 on the highway, but that was rare.  Mainly 19 highway for the
350.  GM tried to match the cams to the best of emissions (that is easy)
and economy (that is hard to do while meeting emissions).  That is why
so many are dog cams.  Not to mention designed 20+ years ago.

My 1980 Turbo Trans AM, with a Pontiac 455 got me 11 city no matter how
nice or hard I was on it, and 16 highway.  That is with ported heads,
.480 lift cam and 228 degrees @ .050 (Adv 4 degrees), Performer intake,
Performer 750 AFB, all accessories hooked up.  My car weighs in at 4030
lbs without driver.  I have 3.08 gears, and 28 inch tall tires.  Never
made a 1/4mi pass, but 0-60 was less than 6 seconds if I kept it in 2nd
gear right off start and never hit the 4bbls til I was over 35 mph.  If
I just tried to hammer it I was just up in smoke.  Not a slouch motor.
Many R#stangs have fallen, 0-60 they do ok, but 60-120, they see
taillights from a distance!!  DO NOT settle for a 455 getting below 10
city unless is is radical, else something is wrong.  Build the engine to
run how you drive 90% of the time, not just hot rodding it.  It is an
Olds, not a Ch#vy, you don't need some radical cam that lumps all the
time and you have to pray when you hit the brakes hard.  Build for low
RPM power, forget high RPM stuff, it is a waste on the street.  Match
the cam, the distributor advance, the carb and all, make it tuned, and
with OD I would EXPECT closer to 20 highway, if not better.  I am hoping
to make a 455 project that gets good mileage with a THM 200 4R.  I think
the 455 can see in the 20's easy.  If a PFI slo-block can get near 30
and run 13's in the 1/4, why not?  Technology has come a long way since
1968!!!  

With a 77-up 98 you can also use the Impala/9C1 parts and make a car
that handles great too, get the station wagon front discs too, the 12 in
ones.  A 98 that can compete in the Slalom?  Ok, I'm game!  I would love
to see the Ch#vy magazines chew on a 98 that beats the vette in the 1/4
and the slalom....

If you have 3.08's, run a mild cam, nothing radical, it is a 98.  Makes
a heck of a sleeper!  A friend of mine had a 70 Toro 455 in a 79 Diesel
98.  Man that was fun!!!!!   Pulled out of a gas station and left 100
foot of pure rubber!!  And we had a beefed up THM 350 and the diesel
converter.  The 66 Tri-Power was slated for the engine, but never made
it, the car got totaled by the stepson.  Shame too, nice shape, black,
power... Well, it IS a 98!   I wonder if he has the Tri-Power still,
hmm.  

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme 350

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 07:44:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: The Sugarmans <sugarman@berkshire.net>
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Netcom Advice Needed

On Wed, 10 Sep 1997, Greg Beaulieu wrote:

<SNIP>
> user's address has a domain that looks like "@ix##.ix.netcom.com" where 
> the "ix##" changes regularly. Since the ## is never the same as the one 
> on file with majordomo it bounces his posts. Netcom seems to assign a 
> different "ix##" address every time he's logged on.
> 
> Anyone have any idea how to avoid this and have his address treated like 
> all the other Netcom addresses?
> 

Some mailers allow you to setup your return domain or full address.  If
the mailer is not setup, the default - i.e., the server handling that
particular session - is listed as the return.

If he is using Pine, for example, he will have to go to the
Menu/Setup/Configuration/user-domain variable and set it to ix.netcom.com

Good luck.

don

sugarman@berkshire.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 03:14:08 -0700
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Bogging?

Kevin Wong wrote:
> 
> This assumes you have a non-computer controlled carburetor.  A C-3 system
> lacks a vacuum operated power piston, and runs with a fixed M/C dwell when
> cold.  Adjustments to the M/C solenoid may be the key in this case.

Gosh I don't know if I have a computer controlled setup.  I do know I
have
a socket under my dash, below the steering wheel, for computer
interfacing.
Is this what this is?

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 08:15:55 -0400
From: "Terry & Tammy" <dawgs@conninc.com>
Subject: Re: Testing Heater Cores?

I don't know of a good way to test a heater core. If you put too much
pressure in it it will bust the seam tha separates the two nipples in
the core.ie the water will not go through the core just make a short
loop. You could try to blow out the water with it in the car and cap one
nipple and then put air in the other one with some thing that would keep
the air in, maybe a rubber cap with a tire valve put in it. remember
that you should not put more than the radiator cap pressue in it
tthoough. also you might place a gauge on the other end to look for
pressure drop.

Terry Teague
68 Delta Custom

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 97 08:35:27 -0500
From: "Christine Rooney" <christine.rooney@bender.com>
Subject: Unsubscribe

     I know this is not the address I am suppose to send a notice to 
     unsubscribe from the list, but I cannot find the correct one?
     
     I am receiving these digests at work and have been asked to stop them 
     by the person who manages our mail system.  I would also like 
     instructions on how to resubscribe once I get my modem at home working 
     again so I can receive on my home account.
     
     Thank you
     
     Christine

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 08:37:35 -0400
From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
Subject: hydraulic lifters

I'm shopping for some new lifters.  A few questions:

1.  Are anti pump up lifters necessary for a street car, ie. for a car that
rarely sees 5500rpm?  (cam is a .496 lift)

2.  Any significant quality difference between the Lunati and Speedpro lifters
that Mondello/Dick Miller sell?

3.  Mondello claims the intake valley pan gasket improves "efficiency".  I
would assume all the valley pan gaskets are the same.  Are they worth it?

Todd Morris
71 442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 21:04:36 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: Do you own a W-455 intake? help!

>  I have mine packed away in the basement.  I'll go down in a little shile
>and look @ all the connections and sent a note back shortly.
>
>Steve Dietrich
>  S/E PA
>   71 442 W30 Conv.
==========================================================================
Thanks Steve!  I'd appreciate that.

RC Hellebuyck
> 1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 08:54:52 -0400
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: RE: Testing Heater Cores?

Ok, this is not a tested method and I just was thinking of how I would
try to do this. So here goes.

Cut a bicycle tube in half. Take the piece with the valve and attach it
to the heater core with clamps. One end to the inlet and one to the
outlet. Pump  it up with air, say 20 lb, and then put the core in a tub
of water and see if there are any bubble's. This is the way we tested
tires for leaks.

Like I said it is only a ideal, I have never tried it, but it might
work. Let me know what happens.

Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the.... Pas  

	-----Original Message-----
	From:	Terry & Tammy [SMTP:dawgs@conninc.com]
	Sent:	Wednesday, September 10, 1997 8:16 AM
	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	Subject:	Re: Testing Heater Cores?

	I don't know of a good way to test a heater core. If you put too
much
	pressure in it it will bust the seam tha separates the two
nipples in
	the core.ie the water will not go through the core just make a
short
	loop. You could try to blow out the water with it in the car and
cap one
	nipple and then put air in the other one with some thing that
would keep
	the air in, maybe a rubber cap with a tire valve put in it.
remember
	that you should not put more than the radiator cap pressue in it
	tthoough. also you might place a gauge on the other end to look
for
	pressure drop.

	Terry Teague
	68 Delta Custom

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 08:57:35 -0400
From: mike.blankenship@medaphis.com
Subject: Re: Do you own a W-455 intake? help!

RC,

I checked all my intakes, the nipple sticks up about 7/8.  All 3 were within
a 16 of that measurement.  The nipple itself is exactly 1 1/4 inches long.
They are pressed in for sure.  I have know idea were you will find one.

Mike
66 442
70 442
70 442 W30
71 42 Convt

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 09:03:51  -0400
From: scott or sharon <jerdan@erols.com>
Subject: Cars & Parts

I found this in the classified section of the Baltimore Sun this Sunday.

69 Olds 442s (2) 100% original, one AT, one 4 spd 3500 each & other 68-72
parts available (410) 760-2793 (He is located in Glen Burnie,MD just outside
of Baltimore)

I called the guy and it sounded like he has a lot of cars and parts and
generates cash for more cars and parts by selling stuff he doesn't need or
want.  I might look at some of the stuff this weekend.

Scott Jerdan
70 W-30 442

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 10:18:45 -0700
From: Bill Gochenour <3sticks@stjohns.edu>
Subject: Beverly Hills Motoring ?

Has anyone heard of Beverly Hills Motoring, they sold car accessories,
are they still in business or maybe they moved? They were the best
source for car covers I've found so far.

- -- 
                                                     
Bill !                                         

                                               _           _       ___
1986 442 "The Perfect 10"                    /  |        /  |    /  _  \ 
1983 Hurst/Olds 15th Anniversary Edition   /    |      /    |   |_|   |
|
     Oldsmobile 100th Centennial # 2218  /  / | |_   /  / | |_      /  / 
                                        |_____   _| |_____   _|   /  /__ 
1993 Chevrolet Lumina Z-34                    |_|         |_|  
|_______|
1997 Chevrolet Monte Carlo Z-34
                                              


        http://area51.stjohns.edu/~toychest     (updated 9/1/97)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 08:17:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Car Covers

     I just got some new car covers. They are made of Dupont TYVEK,
the same stuff house wrap and untearable envelopes are made of. They
are sold by Budge. I got mine at Kmart. A size 4 fits my 69-72
Cutlasses and the 66 Toro. They come in lined (about $70) and unlined
(as cheap as $40 on sale) 
     This material is supposed to breathe but also be waterproof. I've
got about 6 of them on cars right now! One car has a leaky windshield
and back window but stays dry as a bone with the TYVEK cover!  
     I have also tried an Evolution 4 cover but was not impressed with
the relatively short life (2 yrs)
     Another trick for preserving a parts car or restoration candidate
is to use a 10 x 12 plastic tarp which is big enough to cover the roof
and extend completely over all the windows. Tie down the front corners
with bungee cords to the holes in SS wheels or the slots in the
wheelcovers. Tie the back down with a rope passing under the gas tank.
The grommets will rust and stain the paint but it is a good $10
preservation method. The heavy silver tarps from Harbor Freight have
lasted the longest. 

===
John Pajak                       Information Spectrum Inc.
Network Installation Team
Naval Air Station, Patuxent River, Maryland

Read about our cars:
HTTP://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

JSPajak@rocketmail.com



_____________________________________________________________________
Sent by RocketMail. Get your free e-mail at http://www.rocketmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 10:57:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Subject: Re: Bogging?

> Gosh I don't know if I have a computer controlled setup.  I do know I
> have
> a socket under my dash, below the steering wheel, for computer
> interfacing.
> Is this what this is?

The presence of the ALDL connector under the dash is not a sure way of
identifying a C-3 (Computer Command Control) setup.  Interestingly, my '83
Delta 88 has this connector despite not having computer controls.  Check
to see if your carburetor has any wires attached to it: 3 for the TPS, and
2 for the M/C solenoid.  A C-3 car should not have a distributor
vacuum advance.  The vehicle emissions sticker on the radiator support
should also be an indicator. 

Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 12:17:18 +0000
From: "Rick" <richardc@equitrac.com>
Subject: NONOLDS BOSTON Area People 

THIS IS NOT A SPAM....
4 Tickets to tonights Red Sox game against the Yankee's. Grand Stand 
Seats right behind the First base line. 100 dollars for all. If any 
is interested please send replies to kenw@equitrac.com and he will 
get in touch with me with the details.

Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 09:22:16 -0700
From: Erik Nowacki <enowacki@titan.com>
Subject: Re: Beverly Hills Motoring ?

At 10:18 AM 9/10/97 -0700, you wrote:
>Has anyone heard of Beverly Hills Motoring, they sold car accessories,
>are they still in business or maybe they moved? They were the best
>source for car covers I've found so far.
>
>-- 
As far as I know they are still in business.  They had a booth at the LA
Auto Show in January and at the LA Roadsters Show in June.  I get their
catalog once or twice a year, but I don't have one at hand.  Try searching
for their number at www.switchboard.com.

They seem to have good stuff at high prices.  You get what you pay
for.......hopefully.

Erik Nowacki
San Diego
72 Vista Cruiser

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 10:46:34 -0600 (MDT)
From: Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Subject: RE: Testing Heater Cores?

wouldnt it be easier just to hook the questionable core up to the heater
hoses, set it on the inner fender and let the car idle until it is up to
temp?

On Wed, 10 Sep 1997, Etzel, Bobby wrote:

> Ok, this is not a tested method and I just was thinking of how I would
> try to do this. So here goes.
> 
> Cut a bicycle tube in half. Take the piece with the valve and attach it
> to the heater core with clamps. One end to the inlet and one to the
> outlet. Pump  it up with air, say 20 lb, and then put the core in a tub
> of water and see if there are any bubble's. This is the way we tested
> tires for leaks.
> 
> Like I said it is only a ideal, I have never tried it, but it might
> work. Let me know what happens.
> 
> Bobby
> 
> 70 442 Escape Back to the.... Pas  
> 
> 	-----Original Message-----
> 	From:	Terry & Tammy [SMTP:dawgs@conninc.com]
> 	Sent:	Wednesday, September 10, 1997 8:16 AM
> 	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> 	Subject:	Re: Testing Heater Cores?
> 
> 	I don't know of a good way to test a heater core. If you put too
> much
> 	pressure in it it will bust the seam tha separates the two
> nipples in
> 	the core.ie the water will not go through the core just make a
> short
> 	loop. You could try to blow out the water with it in the car and
> cap one
> 	nipple and then put air in the other one with some thing that
> would keep
> 	the air in, maybe a rubber cap with a tire valve put in it.
> remember
> 	that you should not put more than the radiator cap pressue in it
> 	tthoough. also you might place a gauge on the other end to look
> for
> 	pressure drop.
> 
> 	Terry Teague
> 	68 Delta Custom
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 97 13:27:25 -0500
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re[2]: Do you own a W-455 intake? help!

RC,
     
     In looking at my W-455 intake, I concur with the others that this 
     nipple is definitely pressed in.  This makes sense, as this connection 
     has almost no pressure behind it and thus a pressed fitting would work 
     just fine.  I assume this means that you could simply remove your 
     manifold from the engine (I'd recommend this over doing it on the 
     engine) and knock out the plug from the backside.
     
     As for a replacement nipple, as others have suggested, I'll place your 
     chances of finding a factory part (at least, one without an $800 
     manifold hanging off of it) as somewhere between slim and none.  While 
     I appreciate your desire to keep the installation all factory, 
     practicality probably dictates another course.  In reality, this 
     nipple is not visible when the rubber PCV elbow is in place.  It would 
     seem to me that all you really need is the correct length of steel 
     tubing with an outside diameter which allows for a light press into 
     the manifold.  The only drawback I can see to this is that this tubing 
     would not have the "barb" in the end to help retain the elbow.  An 
     alternative may be to find a similarly-sized pipe fitting (with 
     "barb") which could be machined down to correctly fit into the hole on 
     the manifold.  I'll bet most newer cars in wrecking yards have 
     something close under the hood which could be adapted with a little 
     machine work.  A local machine shop could probably even fabricate the 
     appropriate nipple to sketches for a very nominal fee.
     
     Hope this helps
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 11:21:07 -0700
From: Erik Nowacki <enowacki@titan.com>
Subject: Re: MUFFLERS

Thanks for all of your advice.  Since cost is an object I decided to first
try to have an H pipe (or balance tube) installed on my car.  It will set
me back $20.  If that doesn't solve the problem, I will buy the Dynamax
Super Turbos.  The cost of two mufflers and installation is around $100, so
I thought I would try the H pipe first.

Special thanks to Eric Brubakken for giving me the idea that the H pipe
might have something to do with the noise level.  I'll let you all know how
much of a difference it makes.

Erik Nowacki
San Diego
72 Vista Cruiser


>I am running the 3 chamber FlowMasters on my 67 Cutlass with a 455,
>hooker headers, mild cam, etc.  I was concerned about noise when I had
>the mufflers installed.  The muffler shop install 2.5 pipes from the
>collectors to the rear bumper, including a balance tube just after the
>transmission.  My fear of excessive noise was unfounded.  The Cutlass
>just has a nice deep sound to it at idle and crusing.  I have the same 3
>chamber setup on a 1970 GMC truck (350) and it IS loud.  I had to put
>resonator tips on the truck to get the noise level back down.  I can't
>explain why the Cutlass is quieter than the GMC ( maybe the balance tube
>has something to do with it?)
>
>Anyway, just for you info
>
>Eric Brubakken
>
>ebrubak@ix.netcom.com
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 13:53:02 -0500
From: david wyatt <Wyatt_David_L@LILLY.COM>
Subject: Re: I need a nipple

I will soon be adapting a cast iron manifold to the same PCV
configuration to make my 4 speed car correct.  While in Lansing I spoke
with a Doug Badgley (ph # 517-337-0444) who has done a few of these. 
For a nipple he used a VW valve guide.  He drilled the hole and pressed
one in.  After that he cut off the excess that was sticking through on
the bottom side.  According to Doug, once the rubber elbow (available
from Fusick) was in place it looks as good as new.  I was sent to talk
with him by the OCA member on the H/O golf cart (Reeve??) who had this
work done for his 4-4-2.

Dave(terrible remembering names)Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 14:56:10 -0400
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: rear ends

Well I checked out the site and the FAQ is under construction. Although
the site does have some interesting points under the myths with diff's.
I will e-mail him and find out. Stay tuned.

Fernando Proietto
Systems Analyst - Informatics

Environment Canada
Ontario Region - Monitoring & Systems Branch
4905 Dufferin St. 
Downsview, Ontario
M3H 5T4

> ----------
> From: 	Mike Rothe[SMTP:MROTHE@prodigy.net]
> Sent: 	Tuesday, September 09, 1997 4:14 PM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Re: rear ends
> 
> Chris Fair wrote:
> > 
> > Fernando, 3 cheers for a great question. I have the same one.
> > 
> > One item which may help. Apparently rear end gears take on a "set"
> when they
> > are run with one another. My understanding is that a particular ring
> gear
> > will sort of, uh, mate so to speak with a pinion gear. If true,
> using a new
> > pinion might upset this balance, using a different, used one seems
> like it
> > really would.
> > 
> > I hope there are others on the list with a clearer understanding
> than me of
> > these things.
> > 
> > I'll be tuned in to those brighter minds...
> > cf
> 
> 
> E-mail Randy's ring and pinion service at mail@ring-pinion.com
> 
> web URL    http://www.ring-pinion.com
> 
> This guy has a faq and everything at his rear end web page. (NO! Not
> HIS
> rear end!)
> 
> Just a thought.
> 
> Mike Rothe
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 13:47:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Parts wanted

have headlight bezels for 71.    steven. w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 12:46:23 -0500
From: Paul Brillhart <u17058@uicvm.uic.edu>
Subject: Re: hydraulic lifters

Todd Morris wrote:

> I'm shopping for some new lifters.  A few questions:
>
> 1.  Are anti pump up lifters necessary for a street car, ie. for a car
> that
> rarely sees 5500rpm?  (cam is a .496 lift)
>
> 2.  Any significant quality difference between the Lunati and Speedpro
> lifters
> that Mondello/Dick Miller sell?
>
> 3.  Mondello claims the intake valley pan gasket improves
> "efficiency".  I
> would assume all the valley pan gaskets are the same.  Are they worth
> it?
>
> Todd Morris
> 71 442

   Todd,


  If you're not going over 5000-5500, a high performance lifter is not
needed assuming mild lift and duration cam characteristics.  However, be
real, who doesn't hit 5000+ afew times a week in a performance/daily
driver?  Don't get Woverine Blue Racers, I returned a set as most of the
faces had deep scratches in them.  I bought a set of Crane lifters.  For
the money, Jegs has Lunati lifters cheap.  If you want to go generic,
PAW sells SSI lifters at budget price.  I'd pay the extra $10-20 for a
good set of quality name lifters though.  That's assuming the cam is
nice and new and you're not planning on doing a major rebuild in the
near future.  I've never seen the valley pan, but if using it means you
don't have to install one of those damn "turkey tray" intake gaskets and
can use regular intake gaskets, I'd get it.  In his catalog, Mondello
claims the valley pan allows your intake to run "100% cooler than
stock", whatever athat means.  I'd be interested in hearing from anyone
who has bought one.  Later.




  Paul Brillhart
  '65  442 Sport Coupe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 10:58:20 -0800
From: Dan Lacey <lacey@dsea.com>
Subject: Re: Suspension Question

>At 05:37 PM 9/9/97 -0700, you wrote:
>>
>>My interchange manual doesn't tell me whether A body and B or C body
>>rear suspension members (trailing arms) interchange. Anybody know?
>>
>>I think they don't, but thought I'd check. I just keep looking at
>>all those repro suspension pieces and thinking I'd love to replace my
>>multi-hundred thousand mile pieces with something new.
>>
>>Thanks in advance
>>cf
>>
>
>Chris
>
>        Nope. Completely different animal. Even all the A-bodies and
>G-bodies are different.
>
>Jim Chermack
>C&M Classic Parts

What is the difference???

I have been running a set of rear lower control arms (boxed before
installation) from a 64 M*libu for about 9 months. You have to retap the
arm to accept the emergency brake cable holders...

I have a 65 Olds 98.

I also used Energy Suspension PolyGraphite bushings on the lowers. I have
not had time to install these bushings in the upper rear control arms.

Next up: Front End rebuild... Stay tuned...

Chris,

Did you ever try the Raybestos OEM disc rotors??? Still can't get my hands
on a set of '70 front spindles...(Except used mail order)


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 15:24:52 -0400 (EDT)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: RE: Illinois Bone Yards

Anyone know of any bone yards in the Champaign/Urbana area worth a look.. 
I have a few free days in that area in which to look around.. Thanks

Al Varhus
Columbus, Ohio 
http://www.infinet.com/~avar
 
  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 15:47:01 -0400
From: Ed Burger <eburger@sagelink.com>
Subject: lotsa rim questions

Hello list!
    I am considering replacing the 14 x 7 SSII rims on my '70 442.  What
size rims would fit into the wheel well?  I have a set of 15 x 7 (or are
they 15 x 8?) SSII rims.  Would they fit?  It looks like it would be
close.
    If I do put the bigger rims on the car, what spedo gear would I need
(the car has a 3.23 rear)?  How would I replace it?  Where could I get a
new spedo gear?

    Does anyone have aftermarket rims on thier 442's (or Cutlasses)?
Which ones look good?  Anyone have an pic's of Old's with aftermarket
rims?

    What is the difference between SSII's and SSIII's?  What colors
would be correct?

Thanks for you replies,
Ed

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 13:00:51 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: '85+ 442 wheels

Some time ago (over a year I'm sure) one of the list members here did me
a favor and in return I agreed to keep my eye out for some 15x7" chrome
w/ gold 442 wheels for a late '80s 442.  The problem is that I lost all
my old mail when I was laid off my last job, so I don't know who it was.

Anyhow, I found a set of 4 in great shape.  They came on a '71 Cutlass
that I guy I met bought from Arizona, and he doesn't want them.  These
aren't '71 wheels, these are definitely the '85-up chrome/gold 442
wheels.

So, if you're the one I'm looking for (or if you want the wheels and I
can't find my man), please drop me an e-mail and I'll put you in touch
with the seller.

Tom Lentz
tlentz@ior.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 97 16:36:00 -0500
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@orbital.com>
Subject: Re[2]: hydraulic lifters

Paul Brillhart noted:

..In his catalog, Mondello claims the valley pan allows your intake to run 
"100% cooler than stock", whatever athat means....

     Uh, to this engineer, that means absolute zero.  Pretty dense intake 
     charge, I'd say ;-)
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30
  
  
     
     

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 16:19:53 -0500
From: david wyatt <Wyatt_David_L@LILLY.COM>
Subject: Re: hydraulic lifters

I have one of Mondello's valley pans in my 4-4-2.  I was having a vapor
lock problem with my Holley carb and was grabbing at straws trying to
cool things down.  I even blocked the heat riser passages at the same
time.  Did the temps drop under hood?  If it helped I could not tell it.
That big chrome fuel line that is commonly used on dual inlet Holleys
acted as a heat sink and still gave me fits after the above mods.  I
cured the problem with a Quadrajet.  I don't believe you can see a
significant difference in temp with the valley pan on a street engine. 
IMHO it would take some dyno time to tell.  I will be replacing the 455
currently in my car with a fresher more modern (no W-30 cam) 455 in the
future.  I may install the pan and separate gaskets in place of the
turkey tray just because it is easier and seals better.  I would not
advise anyone to pull their intake and install a pan unless they had the
top end apart for something else already.  Not really worth the trouble.

Dave Wyatt
70 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 17:45:19 -0400
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: Valley Tray

Rocket heads,
	When I purchased my valley tray from Mondello I questioned his "100 %"
cooler figure. What is implied here is that the factory "spider corset"
gasket keeps
oil from the bottom of the intake as well as providing intake runner seals.
If
the factory gasket lowers the intake temps by 15 degrees (just a number I
am 
tossing about) then his custom fit stainless valley tray will lower temps
by 30 degrees.
To me, this does sound feasible. That oil splashing around sure is hot.
Also, if
you use any performance gasket with an aluminum manifold you loose the
tray.

	This is what Joe told me he meant (as I remember it)


			The General

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 18:04:04 -0400
From: tgstoner@umich.edu
Subject: Olds Digest CD-ROM

On Thu, 4 Sep 1997 Bob Handren <BobH592058@aol.com> wrote:
> I was one of the lucky 10 awarded one of Jeff Easton's CD-ROMs containing
 all
> the old digests, the current FAQ and other great stuff.
>
> I haven't been saving all the digests, just cut and pasteing items of
> interest at the time I read them.  Naturally, the current items of
interest
> change over time.  Having all the digests and messages solves the problem
 of
> having to ask for the information again or seek out other (less reliable)
> sources.
>
> There are many folks who frequent this list that have enormous
> knowledge/experience.  I recommend the CD very highly.  Use "search" in
your
> word processor/wordpad and find just what you're looking for easily.
>
> Thanks Jeff, good work.

******************************
Well, I'm back to work after the Centennial Celebration and some vacation
time afterword to play with my newly purchased Boston Whaler jetboat.  Many
thanks to the University for giving me five weeks of vacation each year, to
try and forget about all the duties which pay the bills.

I'm finally getting some time and attempting to get caught up on about
three weeks worth of Oldsmobile and Toronado digests and alot of other
E-Mail messages.  I too was one of the lucky 10 in Lansing who came away
with an early copy of this CD-ROM (serial number 11, if I'm reading the
label correctly).  It is a great resource and I agree completely with
everything which Bob has said in the message repeated above.  I'll add my
public thanks to Jeff here too, for making this available to us all and for
providing the copy which I was luckly enough to have received.

Tom Stoner
Oldsmobile Club of America #3943
Ann Arbor, MI
tgstoner@umich.edu

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 18:21:16 -0400 (EDT)
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: Re: 8 Track player question

Thanks a lot but I don't need the diagram! Thanksyou!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 18:54:16 -0400 (EDT)
From: ClancyErbs@aol.com
Subject: Re: new to list

Hello everyone!  Wanted to take a moment and say hello.  My husband Mike and
I are new to this list and he is the Oldsmobile enthusiast and I tolerate it
:)
He is an autobodyman and painter so we have lots of Oldsmobiles sitting in
our yard!  My last threat to him was that before he can buy anymore "fixer
uppers" that he has to get rid of something so what does he do?!  He buys me
my first Oldsmobile, a beautiful 1969 cutlass convertable with only 70,000
original miles.  Its gorgeous and he did not have to get rid of anything! I
tend to be much more tolerant now.  Anyways, MY car is a cherry and I plan on
keeping it original (like Mike would give me a choice) but I would like to
get a radio with FM (mine is only AM).  Let me know if there is one available
out there!  Oh by the way, Mikes cars consist of a 1970 442, 1972 Cutlass,
1972 Vista Cruiser, and 1971 Cutlass.  AND lots of miscellaneous parts
throughout my basement and his garage!  We enjoy reading through these
letters and now if I could just teach Mike to type he'd be able to join you
all!

Judy

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #841
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