To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #861


oldsmobile-digest      Monday, September 22 1997      Volume 01 : Number 861



Re: Delta Resto
Re: need advice...
Re: 12 sec rocket in RI
Free Over 100 Sex Channels!!!>>
Re: ADMIN: Bandwidth.....question
Re: Fall Carlise
Re: is this good $ for 73 H/O?
Re: Fast-ratio steering box
70 Cutlass S Grilles
`70 442
Re: Cleaning electrical connections
Re: Fall Carlise
Re: '70 Supreme Taillight lenses
Re: UNBOUNCE: Door hinge repair kits from year one
Re: '78 Delta - Parts Request
1987 Olds 442 Prom for Sale
Re: Mannix mobile
Re: UNBOUNCE: To strip or not to strip?
Fw: 1973 hurst olds for sale
Re: need advice...
Re: '78 Delta - Parts Request
Re: Fw: 1973 hurst olds for sale
Hello Again (Re-join)
78 Delta 88 for sale, and others
Re: is this good $ for 73 H/O?
Re: MECHANICAL: Ignition key runs door?
vacuum delta 88 '76
Re: In Search of a new gas tank
Re: '78 Delta - Parts Request
Re: `70 442
Re: MECHANICAL: Ignition key runs door?
'78 Delta 88 parts needed...
No replies to my stripping question
Re: 70 Cutlass S Grilles
thanks all for the 73 H/O feedback!
Re: thanks all for the 73 H/O feedback!
Re: Fuel Requirements
UNBOUNCE: No replies to my stripping question
UNBOUNCE: 1987 Olds Prom for Sale
Re: '78 Delta 88 parts needed...
Need a Mirror
Re: UNBOUNCE: 1987 Olds Prom for Sale
Re: UNBOUNCE: No replies to my stripping question
1968 442 W30 Buying advice requested
Re: thanks all for the 73 H/O feedback!
Re: UNBOUNCE: No replies to my stripping question
67' 442 model from Lindberg
67' AM/FM radio
Re: Happy days are here again
RE: UNBOUNCE: No replies to my stripping question
UNBOUNCE: Need a Mirror

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 16:19:03 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Delta Resto

Somehow I can just picture Greg sitting alone in the Delta in the dark with
all those *new* interior lights on = grinning like a fool :-)  It IS the
little things that keep us happy.  It's why we don't do all that
dysfunctional-talk radio crap, we're too busy chaning itsy bitsy bulbs and
getting excited about it!


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass (Ruby)
'66 Toronado (LA Woman)
'67 Delta 88 Custom  (Tizzy)
'69 Toronado (Toro II)
'72 Vista Cruiser (VC)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 19:34:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: need advice...

In a message dated 97-09-21 02:55:45 EDT, you write:

<< There's a guy selling his cutlass, it's an '85 cutlass (I think
 brougham or however u spell it). The body is in decent shape, interior as
 well. Has blown 6 cylinder and blown 3 spd auto. What I'm thinking of
 doing is to put a 350 rocket I have in it and mount a Turbo 350 to it.
 (also with some others mods, but these are the major conversions I want
 to do with it) Here's the question- before I buy it, can anyone tell me
 if it is possible to do this and how hard will it be. The thing is if the
 headache factor will be big, I'll ditch the whole idea. Opinions??

 Jim Rand
  >>
unless its for dirt $$, and the body is mint, there r to many v-8 cutlasses
out to bother with the changeover, my 2 cents......bernie

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 19:42:20 -0400
From: kevin hawkins <hawk455@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: 12 sec rocket in RI

Robert Schinkel wrote:
>
> What carb do you use?
> ----------
> >
> > > Shayne Horn
> > > 70 Rallye350
> > > 85 442
> > steel crank virgin,trwpiston 350 standard because 400 have snall pistons
> > boarded .058 over to fit 350  standarded piston 7 1/6 rod bolts lunati
> > cam,harland sharp roller rockers head ported and studed cloyes roller
> > timing chain hooker headers torker intake custom push rods msd
> > ingnition
>
> > kevin hawkins
> > 72 olds street car
> > et 12.52 106 mph
holley 850 worked

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 May 97 16:46:35 EST
From: 70371790@mailexcite.com
Subject: Free Over 100 Sex Channels!!!>>

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 20:08:24 -0400
From: "Steve B." <steveb@thecia.net>
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Bandwidth.....question

kevin hawkins wrote:

> what do u want to know building 455 now to go faster hope to be at
> english town on the 10/11  4 olds show and race did u ever hear
> ofwilliams olds stocker

Would this be "Cajun nightmare" the 71 442 (F/SA I believe) owned by
Johnny Williams of RI??????

Steve
71 Cutlass S 455
93 Mustang LX 5.0

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 20:25:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: CarrDuff@aol.com
Subject: Re: Fall Carlise

In a message dated 97-09-20 06:19:49 EDT, you write:

<< upper.  Wouldn't miss it.  Even my wife is excited about going (she
 called Carlisle today and made sure the guy that sells all the baskets
 etc. will be there).

 Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
 71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)  >>


  "Even my wife is excited about going"  WOW,  I took my wife and after about
2 hours she started complaining,  my feet hurt, I'm hot, I want to go back to
the hotel  Etc.............. I never covered the entire field.  Another Olds
buddy is going with me so I'm sure we'll cover some ground out there.

Have fun,

   Steve  Dietrich
     S/E PA
       71 442 W30 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 20:45:16 -0400 (EDT)
From: PaulP34167@aol.com
Subject: Re: is this good $ for 73 H/O?

Just for the record, The Hurst Heritage book states that there were 1,097
H/Os made in '73.  The non-A/C cars came w/ the L-77 455 and 3.23 gears.  The
A/C cars came w/ the L-75 455 and 3.08 gears.  The missing "Oldsmobile" hood
ornament was available up to '75, so it might not be too hard to find.  An
interesting note: these cars came from the factory w/ B. F. Goodrich Radial
T/As.  $4,000 seems like a resonable price.  Interesting car!

Paul Pate
Mechanical Design Engineer
70 Cutlass S (350-4V, TH-350, 12-bolt 3.08)
84 Camaro (LG4 305, TH-700, 10-bolt 3.08)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 20:49:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: CarrDuff@aol.com
Subject: Re: Fast-ratio steering box

In a message dated 97-09-20 23:59:31 EDT, you write:

<< Do any of you have experience with the faster boxes?  I have heard people
I
  respect give me both the thumbs up and the thumbs down on the conversion.
  What do you all say?

  Tom SImmons,

  I have just installed a rebuilt "faster" steering box in my 71 442 project.
 I have not tried it out yet but I can only assume that by reducing the
overall turns would make the car feel tighter in the steering and provide
quicker response.

  Don't assume that everyone here has driven a 60's or early 70's car.  The
newer cars don't handle the same and it's difficult describing the steering
slopp the older cars have.  I completed a frame off on a 70 C/S a few years
ago and someone asked me how it handled.  I said it handled like a car from
the early 70's,  lots of wheel play and lots of turns.

Steve Dietrich
  S/E PA
   71 442 W30 Conv.


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 20:50:51 -0400 (EDT)
From: PaulP34167@aol.com
Subject: 70 Cutlass S Grilles

I am in need of grilles for my '70 Cutlass S.  Are these being reproduced?  I
will accept used ones if they are in good shape.

Paul Pate
Mechanical Design Engineer
70 Cutlass S (350-4V, TH-350, 12-bolt 3.08)
84 Camaro (LG4 305, TH-700, 10-bolt 3.08)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 21:00:43 -0400 (EDT)
From: Klinsmann7@aol.com
Subject: `70 442

Whats the difference between a `70 442 455 engine and a W-30 optioned `70 442
455 engine?

Thanx, Jamie

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 21:03:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: CarrDuff@aol.com
Subject: Re: Cleaning electrical connections

In a message dated 97-09-21 00:18:30 EDT, you write:

<< Subj: Re: Cleaning electrical connections

  All electrical connectors come apart.  That is the plastic housings can be
removed if required.  I takes a small screw driver to press the tabs on the
copper terminals to release them and pull them out.  I have not found a
connector that did not come apart.  The only thing is to mark down what wires
went into what connection.

  This may however be considered extreme, or an obsession to clean every part
in order to have that "perfect" restoration............................

Steve Dietrich
  S/E PA
    71 442 W30 Conv. (My obsession for that "perfect" restoration)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 21:12:35 -0400 (EDT)
From: CarrDuff@aol.com
Subject: Re: Fall Carlise

In a message dated 97-09-21 10:33:04 EDT, you write:

<< Subj:Re: Fall Carlise
 Date:97-09-21 10:33:04 EDT
 From:IBDEA@aol.com
 Sender:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
 Reply-to:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
 To:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

 I've got a perfect wife too!! She spent yesterday afternoon at the junkyard
 with me pulling a set of B heads.Going back next week to pull the motor out
 of a 68 Toro with C heads.
   >>


  Double WOW !

Steve Dietrich
  S/E PA
    71 442 W30 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 21:13:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: CarrDuff@aol.com
Subject: Re: '70 Supreme Taillight lenses

In a message dated 97-09-19 22:43:10 EDT, you write:

<< Subj:'70 Supreme Taillight lenses

 I'd heard about the raised chrome ring on the lenses, and in
 fact my car has those. What I haven't heard anybody mention is the atrocious
 overspray on these pieces! The sides of the lenses have a lot of gray
 overspray, so much so that I'm still wondering whether it's some kind of
 overspray from the chroming process for that raised portion, or if in fact
 the factory meant for the sides to be gray and just did a poor job of it.

 Anyone have a clue as to what the proper detailing of that taillight should
 be like? Mine's an early-production car, if that makes any difference.>>


   On 1970 ( and 71 - 72 for that matter) the insides and outsides of the
sides, top and bottoms were painted silver.  The chrome inlays on the 1970
are stainless or alum. glued in place.

   I have detailed the 70 and 71 by masking off the lens, very teadous
process, and spraying them with silver paint.  The mask jobs I have done are
better than the factories, much less overspray if any.  They really look
good.


Steve Dietrich
  S/E PA
    71 442 W30 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 21:30:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: CarrDuff@aol.com
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Door hinge repair kits from year one

In a message dated 97-09-20 00:29:45 EDT, you write:

<< From:Mike Schlottman <mschlott@rsn.hp.com>
 Subject: Door hinge repair kits from year one

 I have bought a set of the door hinge repair kits from year one to fix a
 sagging passeger door.  I thought that I would have to remove the fender
 to get the hinges off.  After looking closely at the hinges it looks
 like I can simply remove the door and repair the hinge on the car.  Has
 anyone else ever done this?  Any tips or gotchas for this project?


  I notices several responses to this problem and I am going to add my 2
cents.
The other big problem, after you remove the doors and replace the bushings
and pins, is realigning the doors back to thier original position.  A big
pain in the !@ªss.
This will definetly drive you nuts.

  I have done this process several times and I have found that if the doors
have never been removed or adjusted is not to disturb the position of the
hinges and to replace the parts with the doors on.  This should take away the
need to redjust the doors.  It may take longer to replace the parts but it
may save you the pain in readjusting the doors.

  To accomlish this you will have cut the top pins in half with a hack saw
and drive them out in both directions.  You have to cut the pins in half
because they are to long to drive out from the bottom while the door is
installed.  After you drive them all out you can take the door(s) off and
install the new bushings.  Before you drive in the new hinge pins, drill a
small hole in the end for a cotter pin (2 top hinges only). Reinstall the
door(s) and drive the new pins in,  the bottom pin can be installed from the
top but the top pin must be installed from the bottom.  Install a cotter pin
in the top hinge so the hinge pin does not fall out over time.

  This should restore the doors to their original factory alignment.

  Note though that either way you do it you still have to remove the dedent
spring. Just be carefull and make sure it does not hit you in the face.

Steve Dietrich
  S/E PA
    71 442 W30 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 21:47:00 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: '78 Delta - Parts Request

Mike Hall wrote:

> - 85' Gage pack for Eighty Eight series cars, I find these to be fairly

Believe so.  I had this package on my '85 and liked it, even tho the oil
pressure was always pegged under acceleration.  I contributed that to a
bad sending unit, but never replaced it.

Thought about pulling all this our before I traded it, but didn't have
time.  Haven't seen too many others.

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 21:46:24 -0400
From: Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
Subject: 1987 Olds 442 Prom for Sale

Hypertech Thermo-Master PROM for 1987 Olds 442 for sale. Used once - with
original packaging.  Advances timing 6 degrees and increase fuel mixture at
WOT.
Quarter mile times improved 0.2 seconds over stock with stock thermostat.
 Purchaser will also recieve TWO CUSTOM PROMS with timing advanced over
full throttle range (2-8 degrees, 4-12 degrees) or timing curve of your
choosing.  Chips will come with timing maps and graphs..

$85 for everything

Steve
1987 Olds 442
1996 Impala SS

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 21:52:08 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Mannix mobile

Mike Rothe wrote:

> And something I wasn't even aware
> of, that the Beverly Hillbillies used a 1921 Olds touring car as a base
> for their truck.

I thought I read where this unit was expected to be in Lansing, namely
in the parade.  Did anyone see it?

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 21:54:43 -0400 (EDT)
From: CarrDuff@aol.com
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: To strip or not to strip?

In a message dated 97-09-20 00:31:02 EDT, you write:

<< From:"Kerr, Brian (R)" <kerrb@basf-corp.com>
 Subject:  To strip or not to strip?

 I know that his list is usually concerned with the details and the
 mechanicals of our beloved Oldmobiles but this is a bodywork/paint technical

 question.>>

 Brian,

  I am by no means an expert on this subjuct, but probably like most people
here I have done lots of body work on my projects.  I have always had good
luck (knock on wood) with the results of my body work.  This has included
stripping, welding, patching all the way up to the final paint.

  This has been my approach,

  Strip all the paint off.  Most of the factory primers I have run into are
pretty resiliant to chemical strippers and most of the advice I have been
given to try to leave the original primer intact.  This can not be
accomlished where patches are needed or where filling is required (most
plastic fillers must be applied to bare steel to adhere properly)

  Strip the paint and complete all the body work.  Stay away from heat.
 Unless you are experianced at the tendensies of metal to shrink and expand
with the use of heat stay away from it.  Also do not sand blast the sheet
metal.  This will also cause warping of the panels.  If you blast, and I just
had my car blasted, use plastic abrassive or walnut shells.  Use the hammer &
dolly to smooth the panels and close as possible to their original shape.
 Most people frown upon plastic fillers but their use today wide spread. I
don't think there are to many cars out there that don't have some form of
plastic filler on them.  Just don't overdue the filler. Keep filler to a
minimum thickness.  I restored a 70 C/S and used plastic filler that has
lasted for at least 10 years so far.

  After the body work is completed I use a etching primer, a few coats of
filler primer with a guide coat and block sand with wet 400-600 with a long
block and repeat the filler primer until there are no high or low spots.  I
haven't painted in about 4 years but I used to use a non-sanding primer
sealer applied the same day as I start to apply the finish coats, I think
this still applies.

Good luck,  I'm sure ther will be a lot of conversation on this topic over
the next few days.

Steve Dietrich
  S/E PA
    71 442 W30 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 21:47:05 -0400
From: "John Richmond" <richmond@tir.com>
Subject: Fw: 1973 hurst olds for sale

Is this car parked on 13 mile in the area Royal Oak?
If so I saw this car back in June. I think he was asking
$7000 for it back then. I thought the car was to rough
to be asking that much. I think $4000 is more like it.

John Richmond
richmond@tir.com
Warren, MI
72 442/455


- ----------
> From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 1973 hurst olds for sale
> Date: Friday, September 19, 1997 7:11 PM
>
> I was driving along in my "merry Oldsmobile", when low & behold I came
> upon a 1973 hurst olds for sale.  In my opinion it's a real nice and in
> ª3 condition.  Sign said:  "appraised at $4800. - $5200.,  Make offer"
>
> White w/black interior
> louvered hood
> buckets w/ auto console
>
> rear bumper needs re-chroming
> paint job so so
> SSII wheels (gold)
> couldn't see the vin because of 4 sale sign
>
> Interested?  e-mail at mrhell@sprynet.com and I'll get the phone ª
>
> I'm in MI by the way.
>
> RC Hellebuyck
> 1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 21:04:08 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: need advice...

> In a message dated 97-09-21 02:55:45 EDT, you write:
>
> <<  There's a guy selling his cutlass, it's an '85 cutlass (I think
>  brougham or however u spell it). The body is in decent shape, interior as
>  well. Has blown 6 cylinder and blown 3 spd auto. What I'm thinking of
>  doing is to put a 350 rocket I have in it and mount a Turbo 350 to it.
>  (also with some others mods, but these are the major conversions I want
>  to do with it) Here's the question- before I buy it, can anyone tell me
>  if it is possible to do this and how hard will it be. The thing is if the
>  headache factor will be big, I'll ditch the whole idea. Opinions??
>
>  Jim Rand
>   >>
Well, in our area, (northern Illinois, where rust breeds . :) V8
cutlasses are rare, I have done this very same changover with a 84
Calias, and depending upon the year of the 350, let me tell you the
computer sh*t can be a pain, but when it was all over, it was REALLY
a fun car. I bought it off a friend who blew the V6 for $400.00, put
a stock 78 350 in it, 350 trainy, most of the original V6 parts bolted
on, still got a damn check engine light that I was never able to
track down, but ran great, and sold the car for $3,500 this summer.
If anything else, if you keep it a while, the value will increase,
because the engines and musclecars will only fade in time...



- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 21:08:08 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: '78 Delta - Parts Request

> Interesting in that it is a
> > total stripper. NO options I could see... manual outside mirror (never saw
> > one of them before on these cars), no rear defog or cruise so it had no
> > opening in the dash for those switches, even a radio delete plate! I
> > thought that an AM radio was standard in these so it might have been
> > special ordered without one.
> >
> > Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada

Mine is the same way! :) Some old lady had it before me, must not
have been into modern technology when she bought it, does it happen
to be maroonish red kinda ?

78 Olds Delta 88
75 Olds 98 Regency
77 Olds Cutlass


- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 22:18:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: Fw: 1973 hurst olds for sale

In a message dated 97-09-21 22:02:37 EDT, you write:

<<  RC Hellebuyck
 > 1971 4-4-2 covt.  >>
hey RC, just my 2 cents,  what is this car worth done up, say ª2 cond?? Id
say it depends on what you want to do with it. drive, show only? remember.
all those little repairs will add up. speaking from exp.....bernie....ps, do
YOU really like this car??

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 22:16:33 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Hello Again (Re-join)

Hey, everybody.  If this gets through, that is if the list isn't closed yet, 
I'm
just letting everyone know that I'm back on the list.  After four weeks of
nothing, the heavy list traffic will be welcomed.  Life's good down here in
Blacksburg, VA (Virginia Tech).  I do have to park the Olds in a lot about 15
minutes from my dorm.  It is under a cover now, though, and will stay that way
when it's not driven.  Keeping the thing clean down here is a real chore.  I
have to take it to the car wash after each 4 hour trip down here because of all
the bugs on the front of the car.  There is a real nice wash down here that 
will
do the whole car and wheel brite for 7 bucks, so that's pretty cool.  I can
really tell the car likes the nice cruise to and fro between here and home.  
The
Cutlass really handles nice and has plenty of power in the mountains down here.
There's one mountain I can't get up with the air on because the temp rises so
much.  It is a REAL long hill and I'm sure that'! s to be expected.  Well, just
letting folks know who I am if they have joined recently and just letting
everybody else know that I'm back.  You can read about my one day in Lansing 
and
everything else about my car at
http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason/cutlass.html.  It is also viewable through
Bryceman's page.  I'm Jason Adcock with a 1984 Cutlass Calais.

 Jason Adcock
 jadcock@vt.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 21:22:55 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: 78 Delta 88 for sale, and others

Well, not really sure if I am going to get in trouble for advertising
or not on here, but here goes

I am a 21 year old Olds fanatic trying to get through school and
collect as many classic cars as possible, while still pay my
bills, what my goals are include fixing up my 77 Cutlass to a Custom
Road Beast as I like to call it, but I seem to have collected more
ars than the loans permit. Between me and my dad, we have a nice
assortment, and can give you complete history of cars per requests,
here they go.

78 Olds Delta 88 Royale, 2dr hrd top,no options, blown 350, TH-200
trainy,new exhaust, brakes, rear end seals, many other tid bits. Just
getting the car off loan, so could sell in near future, very little
surface rust along bottom fender, old lady care before, great for
resto/project, or if someone wants a parts car, it is about complete.
Can get pics, (I have a digital camera) if you want. $500 or best
offer


75 Olds 98 Regency 2dr hard top , white with blue interior, all
options, (my previos baby) this sucker is a beast, and in awsome
shape, this was my previos resto car before I got my Cutlass, 455 ci,
TH-400 trainy, Dual Exhaust, Glass packs, almost 0% rust, was stored
in winters, had small surface rust bubbles, sanded and primed
immediatly, got a guy trying to come up with the money, don't know
what he has planned for it, but would love to see an Olds enthusiast
scag it up, have pics if interested. $1,800 or best offer

1970 Dodge Charger, been stored 11 years, unfortunatly mice got to
the interior, engine locked up, body solid as a rock, have pics if
interested, great resto car. $2,500 obo. 318 V8, 727 trainy. have
pics if intersted

1974 Dodge Charger, body in not so great, but possible resto, better
parts car, good 318, 727 trainy, runs like a champ. $800 obo. Have
pics if interested.


- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 02:54:17 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: is this good $ for 73 H/O?

>There's a 1973 H/O for sale in my area.  Since I know nothing about the
[snip of nice-sounding car]
>shape.  Hood has the louvers in middle and a hole for the ornament, but
>no hood ornament.  Found a little bondo on drivers rear quarter, (in

As another noted, that hood ornament will be the "one thing" that will keep
you from having the car complete... Good luck!

>front of wheel).  Small rust hole, (about 10" in diameter), in

10" is _small_??? Wow, Michigan standards, I guess...

[snip]
>Front quarters has "Cutlass S" on both sides.  Interior is the best

Hmmm, would the H/O be based on the "S", or the CS? If not, are these
replacement fenders?

[snip]
>The guys asking $4,500. or best.  I know he'll take $4,000. (because of
>floor hole)  I'm thinking of offering him $3,000. and dealing from
>there.  Does this sound good or no?  Thanks for any feedback!

That sounds like a good basis for a restoration, or to use as a fun driver!
Buy it if you can afford it!
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 02:54:12 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: MECHANICAL: Ignition key runs door?

>Hmmm... I disagree.  The "square headed" key normally operates the
>ignition only, the "round headed" key operates the doors, trunk, and
>glove box/console locks.  Been this way since GM switched to sidebar
>locks with multiple keyways per car.  ex. "B" & "C" keyways are used on
>my 71 4-4-2.  My 72 cutlass "S" was set up the same way.  (Square key
>ignition only)  Today's cars are the same, only the ignition locks have
>changed slightly.

Hmmm, when did they switch over to separate door/ignition keys? It's
possible that your door or ignition cylinders have been changed.

Oh, one other question: are each of those types of keyways available with
either oval or square heads?
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 02:54:20 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: vacuum delta 88 '76

>I wonder if anyone can advice me on the miles of vacuum tube's on my delta
>88.
>I've had some information about the sensityvety of the system but I was
>wondering if it is possible to shortcut the system in any way.
>Offcourse without changing the carb.

You could simply run manifold vacuum to the transmission modulator and the
air cleaner, ported vacuum to the distributor, and plug everything else up.
On the other hand, it won't run any better with this setup; you'll ping
without the EGR hooked up, the charcoal canister doesn't affect performance,
and most of the switches to which the vacuum lines are connected don't
reduce performance. I'd recommend replacing all the vacuum and vapor/PCV
hoses, and making sure that they are routed according to the factory
specifications (if the tune-up sticker under the hood doesn't have a
diagram, someone here on the list should be able to fax you a copy).

>I have really trouble with a cold start. Sometimes I have to pump the gas
>about 20 times and still I have to start it 6 or 7 times.

First, try adjusting the choke to factory specifications. If that doesn't
solve the problem, the float bowl in the carburetor might be leaking from
what are called the "well-plugs". The procedure for re-sealing them involves
disassembling the carb and covering them with J-B Weld (a metal-like 2-part
epoxy product; other things will do the job as well, if you can't find some
J-B Weld at your local Pep Boys in Holland... ;)
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 02:54:14 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: In Search of a new gas tank

>While on the freeway today, my '68 Delmont was assaulted by a piece of
>retread off the truck in front of me, creating a large gash in the fuel
>tank.  Does anyone know a good source for a new tank?  The car has a
>rear (license plate) filler tube.

I don't know if it's the same pieces (though both would be B-bodies), but
I've got an NOS gas tank for a '68 Caprice. Maybe Bill Culp (Bill... Bill!
You still out there?) could check the interchange in his Hollanders for us.

Actually, I did install the tank (after gashing open the old one; it was
night, parking lot was dark, and the only thing that ruined a perfect
"Rockford" J-turn was a very low fire-hydrant insufficiently protected by a
thin steel pole. Since the parking lot was a slushy melting mess, the fire
department exhausted their supply of speedi-dri soaking up the 25 gallons I
had just put into the tank, which had spread throughout the parking lot. I
don't do J-turns much these days...), but the axle fell out the same day (I
guess the hydrant bent the housing, straining the C-clip to the point of no
return...) so it's virtually new.

It's in CT; where are you?
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 23:03:54 -0400
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: '78 Delta - Parts Request

Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician wrote:
>
> >
> Mine is the same way! :) Some old lady had it before me, must not
> have been into modern technology when she bought it, does it happen
> to be maroonish red kinda ?

Same here!  I've got a '78 Delta 88 with the same burgundy/crimson color
scheme!  Greg and I are in the same boat...we both have faded/cracked
armrests, and faded/cracked B-trim (between the doors).  Have you found
any of this stuff in your travels?

I'd like to replace the saggy headliner in the future, but it'll have to
wait.  One thing I DO need right now a pair of horns...the 'low' one
doesn't work, and the single 'high' one makes it sound like a Hyundai...

If you come across any of these things in your travels, please let me
know...

Thanks,

S. Dave Ward

'78 Delta 88 (350 4bbl.) --->  finally on the road, resto complete!
'85 Delta 88 (307 4bbl.) --->  daily driver, until now...
'91 GMC Sierra 4x4 (305 TBI) ---> back-up vehicle when the '85 won't go!
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 23:24:26 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: `70 442

> Whats the difference between a `70 442 455 engine and a W-30 optioned `70 442
> 455 engine?

Absolutely 0 cubic inches, and about 5 horsepower.....

Seriously, check the FAQ on bryceman's page www.442.com
This should be able to give you a clue on what's in it.
455 heads-"E", W-30 heads-"F"
455 intake-cast iron, W-30 intake-aluminum
W-30 ran a special calibrated carb and distributor, and the camshaft was
a lot longer in duration, and just slightly larger in lift.
Also, the W-30 came standard with the W-25 OAI package.
That quickly sums it up I think.
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 23:41:34 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: MECHANICAL: Ignition key runs door?

>Oh, one other question: are each of those types of keyways available with
>either oval or square heads?

Not to my knowledge.  example; a "C" keyway would be a square-headed key,
a "B" is a round headed key.

RC Hellebuyck

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 23:37:23 -0400
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: '78 Delta 88 parts needed...

Even thought the '78 Delta is finally road-ready, it needs a few minor
things before I'm completely happy with it.  Number one...it leaks water
like a sieve!  Even if the day is drizzly, I still find myself with a
wet *ss when I get in.  I guess Oldsmobiles are known to leak around the
windshields...I just put new glass up front (and a little rust work) in
my '85 because it had the same problem.

Number two...the headliner is saggy.  Is there a quick fix for this, or
should it be replaced?  There's a small slit (1.5") above the left-rear
seat, and I'm willing to live with it, but the sag must be dealt with.

Number three...would it be possible to find a complete set of *new*
original floormats?  The rear ones are still original, but they're
cracked and faded.  I like the look of them, and I'd like a complete set
for the front and the rear...the huge GM symbol looks nice.

Finally, number four...I think it's called the B-pillar door trim?  Is
that right, Greg?  Anyway, it's faded terribly, plus it's cracked in
both the driver and pass. sides from getting the seatbelts caught in the
doors.  I HATE it when people do that!

The lower half of the armrests have faded to a strange magenta, but it
can wait, unless a great deal jumps up and bites me.  The driver's
seatbelt needs replacing because it's frayed badly from twenty years of
adjusting the buckle.  I'm sure it's still safe, but it looks like hell.
This stuff will have to wait until I solve the problems with the leaky
windshield, the headliner, and the B-trim...

My Delta has the bright red interior (crimson, red, light burgundy,
carmine, cherry...take your pick), and it seems to be a popular
color...I've heard a lot about it on the list.  The seatbelts are black,
which shouldn't be too hard to find when I get around to doing the
seatbelt...

Any advice, tips, leads, or other useful info would be appreciated!  I'm
also trying to be cost-effective, too...otherwise I'd just walk into a
dealership and hand him my VISA card.

P.S.--I thought of a good acronym for OLDS the other day.  How's this:

Old
Lady's
Death
Sentence

That could be interpreted a number of different ways, so I'll leave it
up to you.

S. Dave Ward

'78 Delta 88 (350 4bbl.) --->resto done, but needs paint & dual exhst.
'85 Delta 88 (307 4bbl.) --->daily driver, but may retire until winter.
'91 GMC 4x4  (305 TBI)   --->back-up vehicle when the '85 won't go!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 14:48:00 -0400
From: "Kerr, Brian (R)" <kerrb@basf-corp.com>
Subject: No replies to my stripping question

I posted a question on Friday as to wether or not I should strip the
original finish on my Cutlass and start from bare metal or sand the original
finish and start from there. I can't believe on this list that no one has an
opinion that they would bother to share. Or is it that I'm the only nearly
broke guy trying to restore an Olds, and all the rest just pay someone else
to do the body work. (Lets see if that sharp stick will goad some one to
respond.)

Brian Kerr
69 Cutlass Conv

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 23:45:57 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 70 Cutlass S Grilles

> I am in need of grilles for my '70 Cutlass S.  Are these being reproduced?  I
will accept used ones if they are in good shape.

Well, unless someone has a set of NOS ones they wanted to sell you,
you'll have no choice but to get a used set. No one I know of is
reproducing these right now.  I used to have a set of NOS ones, but sold
them about 5 years ago. (Like you needed to hear that, huh?)  I think I
may know where I can get my hands on a real decent pair of either 70 442
or Cutlass grilles.  Can't remember which ones the guy has though.  I
WANT to say they are 442 grilles.  I'll check on that for you this week.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 00:06:58 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: thanks all for the 73 H/O feedback!

Thanks to everyone that responded to my 1973 H/O posting.  As always,
this list is a God-send when it comes to help!

One guy asked, "Do I really like the car", actually no, I think the
1973 model is uglier than sin!  But it seemed like a great price and
not a bad winter driver.  After all it is an Olds Cutlass!  I figured I
couldn't loose money on it since it's turning 25 next year.  But I
don't know.  You don't see alot of 73s for sale let alone a H/O.  Why
is this?  I figure either people don't want them, (no demand), or most
have rusted out.  Seems like all 73 cars had bad rust problems.

For the guy in warren MI, I think it's the same car you saw.  The owner
said he just moved from warren and needed to sell it.  After thinking
about it, I won't spend the $$$ to restore it.  Plus cars don't last
long being stored outside in MI, (damn if I going to keep my 71
outside!).  So as much as I feel I'll regret it, I'm probably going to
pass on this one.  :(   I'm really trying to talk the wife into a 83
hurst anyway!

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 00:47:41 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: thanks all for the 73 H/O feedback!

mrhell@m1.sprynet.com wrote:
>
> Thanks to everyone that responded to my 1973 H/O posting.  As always,
> this list is a God-send when it comes to help!
>
> One guy asked, "Do I really like the car", actually no, I think the
> 1973 model is uglier than sin!  But it seemed like a great price and
> not a bad winter driver.  After all it is an Olds Cutlass!  I figured I
> couldn't loose money on it since it's turning 25 next year.  But I
> don't know.  You don't see alot of 73s for sale let alone a H/O.  Why
> is this?  I figure either people don't want them, (no demand), or most
> have rusted out.  Seems like all 73 cars had bad rust problems.
>
> For the guy in warren MI, I think it's the same car you saw.  The owner
> said he just moved from warren and needed to sell it.  After thinking
> about it, I won't spend the $$$ to restore it.  Plus cars don't last
> long being stored outside in MI, (damn if I going to keep my 71
> outside!).  So as much as I feel I'll regret it, I'm probably going to
> pass on this one.  :(   I'm really trying to talk the wife into a 83
> hurst anyway!
>
> RC Hellebuyck
> 1971 4-4-2 covt.
RC,

Of all the Cutlass models made during the 73 to 79 period I would have
to agree 73-75 are not among the more beautiful models.  I did think
some of the 76 and 77 models looked good.  I had a 76 Cutlass Salon 2
door that was really nice and ran great too (350 4-bbl, a/t).  My true
love, though, has always been the 69 to 72 Cutlass/442 models.  Not to
rundown any other people cars, I just like them best.  They were/are a
nice combination of speed, handling (for the time), looks and just plain
fun.  What car are you looking for?

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, Ky

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 03:04:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: OLDZ69442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Fuel Requirements

Danny


   DITTO. and BRAVO.


Bob Iozia
69 442
57 Ch*vy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 06:59:34 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: No replies to my stripping question

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:"Kerr, Brian (R)" <kerrb@basf-corp.com>
Subject:  No replies to my stripping question


I posted a question on Friday as to wether or not I should strip the
original finish on my Cutlass and start from bare metal or sand the original
finish and start from there. I can't believe on this list that no one has an
opinion that they would bother to share. Or is it that I'm the only nearly
broke guy trying to restore an Olds, and all the rest just pay someone else
to do the body work. (Lets see if that sharp stick will goad some one to
respond.)

Brian Kerr
69 Cutlass Conv

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 07:01:03 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: 1987 Olds Prom for Sale

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date:Sun, 21 Sep 1997 21:46:24 -0400
From:Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
Subject: 1987 Olds 442 Prom for Sale

Hypertech Thermo-Master PROM for 1987 Olds 442 for sale. Used once - with
original packaging.  Advances timing 6 degrees and increase fuel mixture at
WOT.
Quarter mile times improved 0.2 seconds over stock with stock thermostat.
 Purchaser will also recieve TWO CUSTOM PROMS with timing advanced over
full throttle range (2-8 degrees, 4-12 degrees) or timing curve of your
choosing.  Chips will come with timing maps and graphs..

$85 for everything

Steve
1987 Olds 442
1996 Impala SS

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 07:19:55 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: '78 Delta 88 parts needed...

On Sun, 21 Sep 1997, Dave Ward wrote:
> Number two...the headliner is saggy.  Is there a quick fix for this, or
> should it be replaced?  There's a small slit (1.5") above the left-rear
> seat, and I'm willing to live with it, but the sag must be dealt with.

Your car has so many of the same problems it must have been built in the
same batch! Mine doesn't leak water around the windshield top, but I do
have a little drip onto the floormat under the dash after a heavy rain,
near the heater box. Gotta check that out soon.

I have a saggy headliner too and as far as I know there's no quick fix.
One of my neighbors here was looking at the car the other day and that was
the first thing he checked... he has an '81 Buick with the same problem.
Seems to be common with that design. I notice that JC Whitney offers a kit
for these cars but know nothing about it. Maybe you should buy it and be
our guinea pig! :)

> Finally, number four...I think it's called the B-pillar door trim?  Is
> that right, Greg?  Anyway, it's faded terribly, plus it's cracked in
> both the driver and pass. sides from getting the seatbelts caught in the
> doors.  I HATE it when people do that!

I have the same problem but only with the drivers side. I have a
replacement here actually, but haven't installed it because as near as I
can tell you need some kind of specialized Torx-head socket to unbolt the
seatbelt from the floor to put it in. I took a quick look around a couple
of tool sections on the weekend and saw nothing even close to this. I
might need to borrow one, but from where?

> The lower half of the armrests have faded to a strange magenta, but it
> can wait, unless a great deal jumps up and bites me.  The driver's
> seatbelt needs replacing because it's frayed badly from twenty years of
> adjusting the buckle.  I'm sure it's still safe, but it looks like hell.
> This stuff will have to wait until I solve the problems with the leaky
> windshield, the headliner, and the B-trim...

Also the same. My armrests are a nice pinkish purple now. :(  My driver's
seatbelt is also frayed, and I was thinking that for safety's sake I might
want to see if I can find a new assembly. Mine are red, not black though,
and I hate to think how much my friendly dealer might charge. I doubt if
I'll find replacement armrestss that are the right color, so I figure I'll
just get junkyard ones and spray them to match.

Oh, and to Mike K.: the stripper Delta I saw was light blue, not red like
Dave's and mine.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 06:44:56 -0400
From: gludlam@bcinet.net (Gregg)
Subject: Need a Mirror

Folks,

Poking my head in from over on the Toro list...does anyone have a RH sport
mirror (the passenger side, non-remote one) for a '71-'72 Gutlass they'd
like to sell?  I recently came upon a LH remote, so I need it's match.

Again, since I'm not here on the list, please e-mail me directly at
gludlam@bcinet.net.

Thanks!

Gregg Ludlam - '67 Toronado Deluxe, '72 Cutlass S
See me and the Toro at http://www.442.com/ludlam.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 12:05:58 +0000
From: clarence wirtz <cw63nova@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: 1987 Olds Prom for Sale

At 10:01 AM 9/22/97 +0000, you wrote:
>
>---------- Forwarded message ----------
>Date:Sun, 21 Sep 1997 21:46:24 -0400
>From:Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
>Subject: 1987 Olds 442 Prom for Sale
>
>Hypertech Thermo-Master PROM for 1987 Olds 442 for sale. Used once - with
>original packaging.  Advances timing 6 degrees and increase fuel mixture at
>WOT.
>Quarter mile times improved 0.2 seconds over stock with stock thermostat.
> Purchaser will also recieve TWO CUSTOM PROMS with timing advanced over
>full throttle range (2-8 degrees, 4-12 degrees) or timing curve of your
>choosing.  Chips will come with timing maps and graphs..
>
>$85 for everything
>
>Steve
>1987 Olds 442
>1996 Impala SS
>
>

Steve

What kind of increse if any do you feel on the street?  I have an 86 Cutlass
with the 307, I am thinking of the chips offered at the local parts house.
are there any drawbacks with using them?  I already have true dual exhaust
with turbo mufflers. Putting the duals on the car I noticed a big diffrence
in the way the car ran and the mpg.  I am still learning about the comp.
system and all the egr things.  Its a lot of book reading so far.  Iknow the
intake system is real restrictive on the 86 and up 307's.  I plan to look
for a set of heads and intake off of a (5A) earlier 307.


Clarence
86 Cutlass 4dr 307

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 12:17:21 +0000
From: clarence wirtz <cw63nova@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: No replies to my stripping question

At 09:59 AM 9/22/97 +0000, you wrote:
>
>---------- Forwarded message ----------
>From:"Kerr, Brian (R)" <kerrb@basf-corp.com>
>Subject:  No replies to my stripping question
>
>
>I posted a question on Friday as to wether or not I should strip the
>original finish on my Cutlass and start from bare metal or sand the original
>finish and start from there. I can't believe on this list that no one has an
>opinion that they would bother to share. Or is it that I'm the only nearly
>broke guy trying to restore an Olds, and all the rest just pay someone else
>to do the body work. (Lets see if that sharp stick will goad some one to
>respond.)
>
>Brian Kerr
>69 Cutlass Conv
>
>Brian,

It realy depends on if you plan on a complete restoration or not.  When I
painted my 86 Cutlass I did the body work and sanded the orginal finish then
sealed it, then repainted the car.  I get compliments on the car all the time.
People ask how long it has been painted and I tell them almost 4 yrs.  I
used a cheaper paint, but the only diffrence I have came across is that I
have to wax it more often than with the super hard morden paints.  But
remember that the most important thing in a paint job IS THE PREP AND BODY
WORK.  The better the prep is done the better the paint looks.  You can put
a perfect or near perfect paint job on a car with poor body work and prep,
and put a poor paint job on good body work and perp.  Then one with the good
prep job  will last longer and 9 out of 10 times look better(no waves, air
bubbles, run, ect.).   I painted mine Landrover Blue.

If I can give any pointers I will try.


Clarence
86 Cutlass 4dr 307

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 12:35:14 +0000
From: dev01!cberg@ncr02.attmail.com
Subject: 1968 442 W30 Buying advice requested

Greetings,

        I am considering purchasing a 1968 442 W30.  I am looking
for any tips/hints/insight anyone might have with respect to
authenticity and value.  I am suspicious because the car is supposed
to have power brakes and no posi rear rear end.  The VIN supposedly
starts with the magic 344 combination.  I have not seen the vehicle
yet to check fender wells or other other ids.  Any thoughts are
greatly appreciated.

Regards,
Chuck

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 20:53:43 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: thanks all for the 73 H/O feedback!

>RC,

>My true love, though, has always been the 69 to 72 Cutlass/442 models.
They were/are a nice combination of speed, handling (for the time), looks
and just plain fun.  What car are you looking for?>
>Don Sowers

>Nicholasville, Ky


I totally agree Don!  I even like the 68s.  Olds wasn't the only make that
lost their "eye appeal" & speed after 1972, as you know.

I'm not really looking to buy a car, but always searching for that "deal"
where perhaps this is money to be made.  Currently I'm the proud and lucky
owner of a 1971 4-4-2 covt.(no clone)  Real nice car with a wonderful
history to boot.  Very happy with it and plan to keep it forever, God
willing.

The "cheating side" of me is starting to consider getting a 83 H/O.  I
remember looking at one, back in 82-83 in an Olds showroom and thinking,
"wow what a car! but my God; $18,400. could come pretty close to buying a
cadilac". :)  I don't know what it is, but I love the 83 - 84 H/O!  It's
like Oldsmobile made those models just to show they could still make a
"muscle" car.  Still trying to talk the wife into getting one of these!
Maybe some day.  :)

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 09:09:07 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: No replies to my stripping question

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From:   "Kerr, Brian (R)" <kerrb@basf-corp.com>
> Subject:  No replies to my stripping question
>
> I posted a question on Friday as to wether or not I should strip the
> original finish on my Cutlass and start from bare metal or sand the original
> finish and start from there. I can't believe on this list that no one has an
> opinion that they would bother to share. Or is it that I'm the only nearly
> broke guy trying to restore an Olds, and all the rest just pay someone else
> to do the body work. (Lets see if that sharp stick will goad some one to
> respond.)
>
> Brian Kerr
> 69 Cutlass Conv
Brian,

I remember seeing a couple of replies to your post.  One in particular
recommended stripping the paint because they thought it would make the
new paint and patchings adhere better.  I have often wondered about the
normal stripping methods of sanding, priming, sanding, painting is
better of worse than dipping the whole car or not.  I have mixed
feelings on this as it would seem difficult to repaint all the little
nooks and crannies of the cowl/passenger compartment section to provide
coverage against rust in the future, not to mention all the seals,
insulators, etc you would have to replace in that situation.  Of course,
if you are doing a total body off anyway all this stuff gets replaced
anyway.

Anyway, I think it would probably be better to strip the body down to
metal to get uniform coverage and background for the other coatings.  I
know if you use sealer this should make little difference, but you would
at least know it should all look the same.  One other thought, if you
strip it you would learn a little more about the history/condition of
your car as any previous body work would be exposed.  Just my thoughts
although I am not a body repair or painter, I did use to help my father
rebuild cars when I was growing up.  That was both a blessing and a
curse as I can tell most repaints from 10 feet away.  Nothing is wrong
with repainting a car if it is done right.  My father would not let
anything get out of his shop if you tell it had been touched.
Unfortunately I have gotten into disagreements with several body men
over the years who thought it looked "good enough".  Doesn't seem to be
as much pride taken as there used to be.

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, Ky

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 10:04:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: Markintime@aol.com
Subject: 67' 442 model from Lindberg

Hi Again Everyone,
I recall a post recently from someone regarding a new model kit from Lindberg
of the 67' 442 W30.  Does this kit now exist or was it seen in a magazine or
catalog?  My local hobby shop doesn't have it and tells me the kit is not yet
available.  While we're on the subject of models; has anyone ever seen
candy tangerine spray paint for plastic models?

TIA
Mark Berube
Loganville, GA.
67' 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 10:10:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: Markintime@aol.com
Subject: 67' AM/FM radio

Hi Everyone,
Was AM/FM radio available in the 67 Cutlass/442?
I've seen ads for 67 AM radios but don't recall having seen AM/FM.
While we're on the subject, what about 8 tracks that year?

TIA
Mark Berube
Loganville,GA.
67' 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 07:12:16 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Happy days are here again

Hi all,

This Sunday as I was moving my cars around (required by the city I
live in but we won't go into that) I decided to try the switch on
the driver's side window of my extra 442.  I heard life!  Well
needless to say this brought me joy. (I know get a life.  I retort
"Oldsmobiles are my life") :)  Anyway I got a friend to help as I
thumped the motor and soon the window went up with a little help.
Now I don't have to use brick and wood to keep the darn window up.
I forgot who told me to thump the motor (Chris Witt?) but it worked.
Thanks, thanks, thanks....

Later....

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 10:10:25 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: UNBOUNCE: No replies to my stripping question

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I agree here!  When I had my 84 Cutlass painted two years ago, I don't =
think nearly enough time was spend prepping the car (even though they =
had the thing almost three weeks...).  I got a good paint job (original =
code white with a clearcoat finish), but there are two runs that I can =
find and there are some swirl marks on the roof and trunk.  These aren't =
all that bad, but there are paint marks on the rubber seals around the =
sail panel windows and overspray under the hood.  This stuff is just =
basic prep work that should have been taken care of, IMHO.

 Jason Adcock
 jadcock@vt.edu


- -----Original Message-----
From:clarence wirtz [SMTP:cw63nova@worldnet.att.net]
Sent:Monday, September 22, 1997 8:17 AM
To:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:Re: UNBOUNCE: No replies to my stripping question

The better the prep is done the better the paint looks.  You can put
a perfect or near perfect paint job on a car with poor body work and =
prep,
and put a poor paint job on good body work and perp.  Then one with the =
good
prep job  will last longer and 9 out of 10 times look better(no waves, =
air
bubbles, run, ect.).
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 11:26:39 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Need a Mirror

Date:Mon, 22 Sep 1997 06:44:56 -0400
To:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
From:gludlam@bcinet.net (Gregg)
Subject: Need a Mirror

Folks,

Poking my head in from over on the Toro list...does anyone have a RH sport
mirror (the passenger side, non-remote one) for a '71-'72 Gutlass they'd
like to sell?  I recently came upon a LH remote, so I need it's match.

Again, since I'm not here on the list, please e-mail me directly at
gludlam@bcinet.net.

Thanks!

Gregg Ludlam - '67 Toronado Deluxe, '72 Cutlass S
See me and the Toro at http://www.442.com/ludlam.html

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª861
********************************
