
oldsmobile-digest      Wednesday, October 1 1997      Volume 01 : Number 879



Re: last chance to Vote Olds
Re: 72 W-30 Q jet
Re: last chance to Vote Olds
Re: 69 Assembly Manual
Re: Color codes
Re: Export Engine Horsepower Ratings
Re: Color codes
Re: Color codes
Re: rebuilding olds 403
Floor Work
Re: TPI fro Olds?
Re: 70 w-30
Sport Wheel
Sport Wheel
Re: Floor Work
Re: Top Speed 
Re: rebuilding olds 403
PLEASE READ AND HELP MEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!
Re: Floor Work
Re: '68 Toro cam specs; who has a '68 shop manual?
Re: TPI fro Olds?
RE: Color codes
Re: my apologies to the list and a request
Re: Paint code/name
Re: All Toro heads _Not_ big-valve heads?
EVOC Car Show
PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale 
Parts availability and steering wheel removal.
Re: "Terrifying Toronado" in this month's Hot Rod-Memories
Blinker speed
Re: hurst olds found 
230,000 mi.
Re: 67 Delta
Re: Color codes
For Sale
Re: Floor Work
'72 Axle code
Re: Blinker speed
Re: last chance to Vote Olds
Re: '68 Toro cam specs; who has a '68 shop manual?
Re: Blinker speed
Re: '72 Axle code
Re: new modine radiator
Fwd: '67 442
Re: '72 Axle code
UNBOUNCE: '67 442
UNBOUNCE: Parts availability and steering wheel removal 
Re: '72 Axle code
69 Cutlass with f-body disc brakes <fwd>
Re: Top Speed
RE: Color codes
RE: Blinker speed
Re: Top Speed
HEI questions

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 19:38:43 -0500
From: Tom Williams <tjwilli@Megavision.com>
Subject: Re: last chance to Vote Olds

WMACHINES@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 97-09-30 08:52:07 EDT, you write:
> 
> << With all this advertising, I do hope you win. My 2 votes are in. Good
>  luck. If you win Mark, you owe all of us a ride! Me first... >>
> NO PROBLEM,take anyone that wants a ride here in the Detroit area
> 
> W MACHINES
Mark,
  I thought with being in the computer business I should go ahead and
enter everyones e-mail address for a vote for your W-30. Hope this helps 
you win.
P.S. I just voted 9 more times with seperate e-mails of course.
By the way I think everyone on the list is going to want to know where
you are throwing the party after you win. (ha)

Tom Williams
70W-31

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 20:39:17 -0400 (EDT)
From: CarrDuff@aol.com
Subject: Re: 72 W-30 Q jet

In a message dated 97-09-30 01:28:58 EDT, you write:


 From:	alsutton@sprint.ca (Al Sutton)
 
 
 Wondering if anyone has the correct #'s for 72 w-30 Q jet carburator for
 both the Auto and 4 speed cars?
 
 Al Sutton
 B.C.,Canada
 72 442 W-30 Convertible (auto)  >>


Al,

   My Restoration guide lists the following carb. #'s for 72

7042251 (W30 & 442) 455 Auto
7042953                    455 Standard


Steve Dietrich
  S/E PA
    71 442 W30 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 18:46:48 -0600 (MDT)
From: Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Subject: Re: last chance to Vote Olds

what is the address to vote?

On Tue, 30 Sep 1997, Tom Williams wrote:

> WMACHINES@aol.com wrote:
> > 
> > In a message dated 97-09-30 08:52:07 EDT, you write:
> > 
> > << With all this advertising, I do hope you win. My 2 votes are in. Good
> >  luck. If you win Mark, you owe all of us a ride! Me first... >>
> > NO PROBLEM,take anyone that wants a ride here in the Detroit area
> > 
> > W MACHINES
> Mark,
>   I thought with being in the computer business I should go ahead and
> enter everyones e-mail address for a vote for your W-30. Hope this helps 
> you win.
> P.S. I just voted 9 more times with seperate e-mails of course.
> By the way I think everyone on the list is going to want to know where
> you are throwing the party after you win. (ha)
> 
> Tom Williams
> 70W-31
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 20:53:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: CarrDuff@aol.com
Subject: Re: 69 Assembly Manual

In a message dated 97-09-30 15:40:18 EDT, you write:

 From:	kerrb@basf-corp.com (Kerr, Brian (R))
 
      Thanks to Steve, Paul. KR442 and others for your replies to my 
 question. I will get one from Yr 1 or Kanters or someone. On the other hand 
 If there is a deal on a sport steering wheel out there....please call me 
 Thursday or Friday at 1800 565 9586
 
 Brian Kerr
 69 Cutlass Conv. >>

  Brian,
     There will be lots of sport wheels out there.  Summer Carlise i must
have saw 15 -20.  Around 100-150.

Steve Dietrich
  S/E PA
    71 442 W30 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 21:05:11 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Color codes

Etzel, Bobby wrote:

> Sorry if I passed along bad info here, but the chart I have said 53/03
> for the 1969 Olds is Nugget Gold. Is 03 for 69 nugget gold. Maybe 53 is
> used by Ch*v or Pont., which is also listed. I know they changed the
> code each year for the colors.

The color book for '69 says the code for Nugget Gold is X.  The ID #
book says the code is 03.  Either way, it was a special order color only
available on Toronados for '69.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 21:13:39 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Export Engine Horsepower Ratings

Raul Martinez wrote:
> 
>         Anyway as a reference which will be the HP rating for a 425 2bbl domestic?
>         Thanks

The regular compression 2bbl 425 had a rating of 310hp.  The low
compression version had a rating of 300.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 21:29:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: CarrDuff@aol.com
Subject: Re: Color codes

In a message dated 97-09-30 08:37:46 EDT, you write:

 From:	mrada@catalina-inter.net (mrada)
  
 What does the color code "53" for a 1969 442 represent?
 
 Chris Sparks >>

Chris,
  I know you got quite a few responses from this but I'll add one anyway,

69 Code 53 is Nassau Blue
69 Code 03 is Nugget Gold (Special Order Toronado Color)  
          70 Code 53 is Nugget Gold (Special-Order Colors) Apperantly now
Avail. for the              










































                                                                      Cutlass
Line

None of the 70 codes noted as, 26 for Viking blue, 25 Astro blue, 20 Azure
blue, 28
> Twilight blue, or 34 Reef Turq., are the same for 69.

Steve Dietrich
  S/E PA
    71 442 W30 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 21:45:43 -0400 (EDT)
From: BMAN6771@aol.com
Subject: Re: Color codes

hey steve, what color is your car?????

just wonderin

brent
1967 ragtop (biminie blue)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 21:22:06 -0500
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: rebuilding olds 403

- ----------
> From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
a hundred pound difference. In everything I wrote I only asked
> one question... > Why does the 403 have to work so hard to do nines???TIM

Like Charley said any engine works hard to run 9s. I went to the Turbo
Buick web site (http://ni.umd.edu/gnttype/www/9secrec.html)to see what they
say to do to get a turbo 6 in the 9s. With out going into a long drawn out
post I will make one point that will show why the turbo 6 as an advantage
over a normally aspirated 403. Boost. The formula for a 9 second GN calls
for 28 lbs of boost. I cant remember the formula right now but I do
remember that every 14.7 lbs. of boost adds the engines displacement to
itself, so running 28 lbs. of boost almost triple the engines displacement,
a 231 would be about the same as a 693 naturally aspirated engine. Now ask
you self if you wanted to run 9s which would be easier a 403 or a 693?
Those V6s running 28 lbs. of boost are working very hard. Just imagine
running that much boost in a 403 (1209 c.i). 

Daren 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 21:27:26 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Schaack's" <shaqboyz@sbt.net>
Subject: Floor Work

Today I removed the very tattered carpet from my 66 Olds 98 Convert.  I found 
that the floor is in good shape with only minor surface rust that could be 
easily removed.  I would like to take off what rust there is and repaint it 
before I put carpet down.  What is the best way to go about doing this?  Just 
sanding, priming, and painting?  Or is there something else I should do also?  
Also, where is the best place to get molded carpet and the padding for 
underneath?  What type of padding/insulation should I use under the carpet?  One
last one!  I haven't been able to figure out what the actuall "name" of the 
colors of my interior are.  The seats/top of door panels are red and the 
carpet/dash is more of a dark burgundy, what's it's name?  Any and all help is 
much appreciated!

Jerod S.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 21:40:51 -0500
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: TPI fro Olds?

- ----------
> From: Ingmar Ott <iao2@cdc.gov>
> Can someone tell me why there are no TPI systems available for a 350
> Rocket, or any Olds engine (early) for that matter? 

Dick Miller was working on one. I think it was supposed to be done some
time this year. I don't have the address or phone # handy but can get it if
you want to get ahold of him. http://www.howell-efi.com/ has tbi kits that
use GM parts which has the advantage that if your on a trip some where and
something breaks you can go to a parts store or a GM dealer to get the
parts where as the after market kits you'll have to order them (you might
have to order the GM parts). Electromotive (?) has tbi kits too but I lost
their url.

Daren 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 22:36:04 -2800 (EDT)
From: "Douglas J Harkema" <harkema2@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Re: 70 w-30

Will,
What are you looking to get out of the car?
I'm interested

Thanks
Doug

>
> hey Doug the car will be out the body shop on thursday. the body is very
> smooth. the car will be in primer. please let me know if you are interested
> before i have it painted.
> thanks in advance.
>
> will
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 22:40:51 -0400 (EDT)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Sport Wheel

Perhaps someone out there that is good with the restoration processes
can h*lp me with a Sport Wheel that I have.  The wheel is bent slightly
at the bottom and is now out of round.  This occurred when the car it
was attached to stopped abruptly in a ditch but the driver didnt. His chest
did however decide to prevent the rest of his body from continuing forward
and used the steering wheel as an aid in this effort. I would like to get
the wheel straightened out and make it useful again. Course it does kinda
remind ya of the telescoping wheels of bigger Olds's...lol.....Well anyway,
TIA for any info from anyone.....TIM

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 22:45:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Sport Wheel

Perhaps someone out there that is good with the restoration processes
can h*lp me with a Sport Wheel that I have.  The wheel is bent slightly
at the bottom and is now out of round.  This occurred when the car it
was attached to stopped abruptly in a ditch but the driver didnt. His chest
did however decide to prevent the rest of his body from continuing forward
and used the steering wheel as an aid in this effort. I would like to get
the wheel straightened out and make it useful again. Course it does kinda
remind ya of the telescoping wheels of bigger Olds's...lol.....Well anyway,
TIA for any info from anyone.....TIM

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 22:05:56 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: Floor Work

Well, don't know if this is the best, but Summit Racing equipment 
sells aftermarket carpeting,carpet padding, both insulated, 
heat/weather resistant, and sound dampening, and all of the above in 
one. Summit can be found on the web at www.summitracing.com

Another place  would be JC Whitney, there a bit cheaper, but I think 
so is there quality, but then again, still better than factory. JC 
Whitney doesn't have a internet site that I am aware of, there based 
out of Chicago, but if you want, I can get you a phone # for a 
catalog.

> Also, where is the best place to get molded carpet and the padding for 
> underneath?  What type of padding/insulation should I use under the carpet?  One
> last one!  I haven't been able to figure out what the actuall "name" of the 
> colors of my interior are.  The seats/top of door panels are red and the 
> carpet/dash is more of a dark burgundy, what's it's name?  Any and all help is 
> much appreciated!
> 
> Jerod S.
> 
> 
> 
> 
- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 22:10:18 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: Top Speed 

> > I was wondering if someone could tell me how much limited will my top speed
> > be when I upgrade to a 3.73 rear from a 2.73 that is in my 307, 81 Delta 88
> > with the th250.  Also, if I got the overdrive, would it help much.
> > 
From my experience with the TH-250's, the  overdrive is only a fuel 
saving feature, not really a power feature. If you want alot better 
performance off the line, go to a 78 TH-350 trainy, they should be 
interchangeable without a hitch. And if you want a little more 
excitement, throw in a 2000 stall converter, but not sure how much 
more exciting it will get with a 307.

1977 Cutlass 350 4bbl
1975 Olds 98 Regency 455 4bbl
1978 Olds Delta 88 Royale 350 4bbl


- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 23:23:27 -0400 (EDT)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: rebuilding olds 403

In a message dated 97-09-30 22:28:51 EDT, you write:

<< ----------
 > From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
 a hundred pound difference. In everything I wrote I only asked
 > one question... > Why does the 403 have to work so hard to do nines???TIM
 
 Like Charley said any engine works hard to run 9s. I went to the Turbo
 Buick web site (http://ni.umd.edu/gnttype/www/9secrec.html)to see what they
 say to do to get a turbo 6 in the 9s. With out going into a long drawn out
 post I will make one point that will show why the turbo 6 as an advantage
 over a normally aspirated 403. Boost. The formula for a 9 second GN calls
 for 28 lbs of boost. I cant remember the formula right now but I do
 remember that every 14.7 lbs. of boost adds the engines displacement to
 itself, so running 28 lbs. of boost almost triple the engines displacement,
 a 231 would be about the same as a 693 naturally aspirated engine. Now ask
 you self if you wanted to run 9s which would be easier a 403 or a 693?
 Those V6s running 28 lbs. of boost are working very hard. Just imagine
 running that much boost in a 403 (1209 c.i). 
 
 Daren 
  >>
Daren, not to nitpick this issue because the real discussion should be 
about the Olds's, but that nine second recipe of lorek's is 5 years old.
There are many, many, more examples than the one below, it is just the
most recent to come across the mail (3 days old).  There are MANY GNs
that run nines and are street driven on a very regular basis.  this would not

be the case with a motor that redlines at over 9300 and has a 5K stall.
There are many big blocks that run nines without turning 7000 rpm and 
are very streetable.....TIM

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 20:32:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: HPV61000@aol.com
Subject: basic approach to 8's with off the shelf parts!

                           Well,some basic problems got worked out and
wednesday night
LVD,I went 8.90 at 151 with a poor 60 foot  1.32sec(.05 off normal) It was a
test night so the track was untreated and very slippery.Just a little info on
how it was done,First like most my car was a daily driver and made it's
proggresion in stages.Thus a lot of things on the car are street oriented
.I'm not saying my car is a all out street car just that alot of it was used
when it was. The motor is standard ,with the ordinary Machine work
 it has 181 full runs on it and a lot of testing in between.The camshaft is a
Erson roller that was in it when it was a 10.0 street car that had AC and
 was docile enough for my wife to drive to work when she wanted to.
 Going with more cam would have helped it but I had it so it got used! 
With a turbo motor max lift is not everything !
 The Intercooler is a Air to air From K.D. It is
nice but it is basicly
the same as Easterns front mount.A new one may help but the car has run 9.0
in
90 degree plus weather.Again it was left from street days but works
flawlessly.
 Big dollar units are flashy but basics are more consistant
                            The controll is a standard D.F.I. batch fire box
that I have used since 1991.The fuel pump is a Welden 110 gph but i only use
# 8 line because thats what has been on the car for 7 years.The Injecters are
only 83 lb and are probly close to the end .But on the 8.90 run retard
reached a max of  .75 of a degree so it
was almost non existent.
                              The Turbo is a 76mm little thumper from
Turbonetics nothing fancy just good airflow In my oppinion Turbonetics make
the best units bar none.
I do sell them but I have installed lots of others and there units are the
most reliable.
                               The Heads  I use ( 2 plugs per cyl) sound wild
but the airflow is just average for a set of well done stage 2's.The 2 plugs
allow me to have a complete
burn and are fired by stock coil packs .
                                The boost was 21 psi and after that run i
turned it up  to 23
the car picked up .06 in the 1/8 th to a 5.62 but started to shake the tires
severely and thru the alt belt I shut off and went 9.0 at 130  it was at 125
in the 1/8 th. The night was over it was to crowded to try again.The air was
1800 ft so hopefully at the
high tech shootout at e-town saturday it will pick upat sea level.
                                 And yes my car loves a pro tree it is very
quick in building booste so don't think it was put together to just go fast
it was built to race and have fun.Just make your combo work to it's max you
will be suprised how fast some of the things you have will take you.
                                ERIC
                         P.S. congrats Alan on the 8 sec run  ,Pete may have
also got there this weekend I will find out later.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 22:07:00 -0500
From: gilly24-7@juno.com (Gabe G Gilsrud)
Subject: PLEASE READ AND HELP MEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!

Hello to all...
Lately, I've been having problems with the lighting on my '82 cutlass
supreme...
The flasher does not work, even after replacing all bulbs and checking my
ground.
I haven't had a chance to replace the flasher itself, but the reason for
that is this:
When I hit the brake when the car is not running, the parking lights turn
on and my lights on alarm sounds.
If I release the brake, it stops.
Sound familiar to anyone???
I need to take my license test in the car in a week, so a reply in the
near future would be highly appreciated...
Thank you all, and thanx to the founders of this list,
See Ya...

Gabe G. Gilsrud
Gilly24-7@juno.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 23:37:27 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Floor Work

At 09:27 PM 9/30/97 -0500, you wrote:
        The best thing to coat the floor with prior to the carpet install is
POR-15. This product is worth every penny it costs as far as I'm concerned. 

My $.02

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts 



>Today I removed the very tattered carpet from my 66 Olds 98 Convert.  I found 
>that the floor is in good shape with only minor surface rust that could be 
>easily removed.  I would like to take off what rust there is and repaint it 
>before I put carpet down.  What is the best way to go about doing this?  Just 
>sanding, priming, and painting?  Or is there something else I should do also?  
>Also, where is the best place to get molded carpet and the padding for 
>underneath?  What type of padding/insulation should I use under the carpet?
One
>last one!  I haven't been able to figure out what the actuall "name" of the 
>colors of my interior are.  The seats/top of door panels are red and the 
>carpet/dash is more of a dark burgundy, what's it's name?  Any and all help is 
>much appreciated!
>
>Jerod S.
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 1997 03:42:23 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: '68 Toro cam specs; who has a '68 shop manual?

>455 CU. IN. ALL EXC. W-34  One green stripe or one green and one orange
>stripe
>
>455 CU. IN. in W-34 Two white stripes or two white and one orange stripe

Hmmm, ok, I guess my next question is whether the "one green stripe" cam is
in fact the same specs as the "one green and one orange stripe" cam. What
are the top two timing events for each of these cams? The later green-stripe
cams had figures of 20' and 24', while the two white-stripe cams had 24' and
33'.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 1997 03:42:19 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: TPI fro Olds?

>> >Can someone tell me why there are no TPI systems available for a 350
>> >Rocket, or any Olds engine (early) for that matter? 
>> 
>> The problem here is the manifold; the factory never produced one for an Olds
>> motor, 
>
>Actually...  In the late 70's, some Caddy's came with a port fuel
>injected 350 Olds.  Analog system, rumored to run like crap, but they
>~did~ make one, at least.  I'd suspect it could be adapted to modern
>technology, but I've never physically seen one of these motors (be nice
>to someday, though...)  Someone on the list had one for sale awhile
>back, but don't recall any details...  Big project, regardless.

I've seen this manifold, and while it would be a factory-engineered starting
point for a multiport fuel injection system, I don't know if it would be
better than a single-plane manifold that has had bosses welded onto it for
fuel-injectors. It's not a "tuned-port" unit, and doesn't seem to be
designed for high-speed operation. 

Bob Valentine displayed his "stash" of these manifolds, and pointed out the
flaw in the factory design: the design and placement of the intake charge
temperature sensor caused it to measure the temperature of the intake
manifold rather than the air the manifold was taking in; this in turn caused
the mixture the injectors supplied to be incorrect. There's no reason the
sensor couldn't be moved, but again, I don't know if the factory engineered
manifold, at least in this case, would be an advantage or a handicap over an
aftermarket intake modified for MPFI.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 1997 03:42:25 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: RE: Color codes

>> Chris, the #53 code is for Nassau Blue in 1969.  Most likely a 933
>> interior trim code, if bucket seats.  
> 
>Sorry if I passed along bad info here, but the chart I have said 53/03
>for the 1969 Olds is Nugget Gold. Is 03 for 69 nugget gold. Maybe 53 is
>used by Ch*v or Pont., which is also listed. I know they changed the
>code each year for the colors.

03 is indeed Nugget Gold, which in '69 is listed as a "Special Order
Toronado Color", and therefore wouldn't ordinarily be found on a 442 (though
anything can happen). 53 is Nassau Blue, as Mike noted.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 1997 03:42:27 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: my apologies to the list and a request

>Gabe G Gilsrud wrote:
>> 
>> my deepest apologies to all members of the list.
>> I have just recieved some complaints about foul messages bieng sent to
>> the list and have pounded my brother for his foolishness...

Gee, Gabe, I didn't notice anything unusually foul coming across the list
lately; can you send them again so I can be properly offended? ;)

(no, seriously, was there offensive material being sent? I honestly didn't
notice any. And no, there is no need to forward them to me...)
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 20:35:14 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Paint code/name

Can someone guesstimate this paint (colors) name?  I asked him to send me
the cowl tag info but maybe someone already knows it.

Reply to me @ lisa@hotglass.com

 currently own a 1981 Olds Cutlass Crusier s/w. I am looking for a

paint name(code) for my car. It is a factory color for sure, its a

green color with a tinge to gold. Perhaps you might know?

I am very pleased with the car to date its only got 140000km and 

is fully loaded and is running strong.  


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser 

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 20:48:11 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: All Toro heads _Not_ big-valve heads?

In my (probably never-ending) quest to try and identify if my '69 Toro is
indeed an elusive W-34, I'll be waiting to hear if the valves are indeed
different.  It's easier to pull the head and check then pull everything off
the front & check the cam (in my opinion).  Dr. Bob can you post me
privately if you find out conclusively so I don't miss it come across on
the list.  Oh, the car is going to the swap meet to be sold on Oct. 12 so
I'd like to know before that (not rushing or anything.....).

Thanks much -


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser 

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Oct 1997 00:00:13 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: EVOC Car Show

To All,

        The Eastern Virginia Oldsmobile Club will be holding it's 5th annual
Veteran's Day car show at Greenbrier Oldsmobile 1300 S. Military Hwy
Chesapeake, VA on Saturday November 8th (rain date the 9th). Registration is
from 9:30-11:00 AM. Judging at 11:30AM -1:00 PM. Pre-registration is $5.00
for show or swapmeet. Day of show is $15.00 for either. Two 50/50 raffles.
One gauranteed $100.00 pot. A portion of the proceeds to go to the
Sumaritian House. For registration or more info E-mail me or call me at
(757) 474-0869.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Oct 1997 00:00:10 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale 

                                        C&M Classic Parts
                                      1132 Chatmoss Drive
                                    Virginia Beach, VA 23464
                                         (757)474-0869 or
                                      <chermac@exis.net>
Hours:  Mon-Fri  6:00 pm - 10:00 pm, Sat 9:00 am - 6:00 pm, Sunday Closed
We accept all major Credit Cards. VISA, M/C, Amer. Express, and Discover.
New Parts: ____________________________________________________________________ 
63 Starfire Console (red, nice, no shifter, w/ Tach and nice shift lens) $375.00
66  Cutlass/442 Side Chrome moldings (almost complete set) Inquire
66  400/425 "B" dash 1 heads (66 Big Block) Big Valves (bare) $250.00
(4) 70-75 Sport Steering Wheels (black, nice centers, complete)  $150.00 ea
66-69  4 spd Console Top Plate w/glove box top (good to nice cond) $55.00
66-67 Glove Box Door (black, mint) $40.00
68  8-Track Unit (housing cracked, needs plastic one)  $65.00
69-72  Bench Seat Headrests (black, mint)  $45.00 pr
65 425 111089 Distributor  $20.00
67 442/Cutlass Hardtop Quarters (mint) $450.00 pr
67 W-30 Track Pac Core Support (nice, cutouts)  $300.00
67 W-30 Inner Ducts (originals, mint)  $300.00 pr
68-72 Rear Defrost  (no switch)  $30.00
69 Cruise Control Switch and Bezel  $25.00
69 Radiator Core Support 3 Row (mint, no rust holes)  $150.00
69 Tail Light Bezels (nice, pit free)  $165.00 pr
69 Trunk Lid (Conv, nice)  $250.00
69 Bucket Seats (black)  $50.00 pr
70-72 Wide Chrome window moldings (with sweepers)  $100.00 set
70 350 2 bbl engine (complete, 66,000 miles runs great)  $150.00
70 350 4 bbl Stick engine (complete, minus carb runs great)  $275.00
70 FLAT Fender RH (small metal patch panel installed nice)  $300.00 
70 Cutlass Supreme Door Panels (black mint) 4 for $100.00
70 OAI Hood (good cond, need minor repairs)  $675.00 
70 Sport Mirrors (1 set left)  $155.00 set
70-72 RH Door (Coupe/Conv)  $125.00
69-72 Column Shift Steering Column (plain)  $45.00
64-72 Power Window Motors  (excellent cond) $50.00 ea
71-72 Fender RH (small metal patch in bottom)  $250.00
71 Bucket Seats (need recovering, white, plastic rough)  $35.00 pr
71 C/S Door Panels (white w/pwr windows)  $40.00 pr
71-72 W-455 Aluminum intake ((2) 1/8th in repaired cracks) $675.00
71 350 4 bbl Engine (complete, carb to pan, runs excellent) $250.00
68-72 Power Steering setup  (complete)  $60.00
71 Cutlass/442 Taillight Lens  $17.00 ea
Bumper Bracket sets ALL years  $25.00 pr
70-72 455 Engine Mounts (NEW, made in USA)  $40.00 pr
68-72 350 Engine Mounts (NEW, Made in USA)  $38.00 pr
TH350 Shift Cable Bracket  $15.00

New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts for 1964-1972 Cutlass/442
_______________________________________________     
66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea                           
68-75 SSII/III Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea                       
69 Cutlass RH Grilles (N.O.S.) $85.00 ea                             
70 Cutlass Supreme Grilles (N.O.S.)  $120.00 pr
70-72 LH Coupe/Conv Door Skin (N.O.S.)  $200.00
70-72 Cutlass/442 LH Fenders (N.O.S.) $495.00 ea               
71-72 Turn Signal Lens (N.O.S.)  $90.00 pr                          
71-72 Stone Shields (N.O.S.) $38.00 ea                              
71-72 Headlight Housings (plastic) (N.O.S.) $80.00 pr          
71-72 Cutlass Rear Bumpers (N.O.S.) $400.00 ea               
71-75  Cutlass Fender Emblems (N.O.S.)  $19.50 ea            
72 Cutlass Supreme & Hurst/Olds Grilles (N.O.S.)  $125.00 pr

Used Parts
_______________________________________________      
64 Cutlass/442                       
RH Headlight Bezel  $15.00                                                  
Front Bumper Core  $50.00                                                   
LH/RH Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea                                            
F-85 Fender Emblem (nice)  $5.00                                      
V-8 Emblem  $5.00                                                             

65 Cutlass/442
65 Cutlass/442 Wheelwell Moldings  $20.00 ea
65 Hood Molding (fair cond)  $10.00

66 Cutlass/442
66 442 Side Mount Tach (maroon, works, nice)  $245.00
66 F-85 Post Coupe Doors (very good cond)  $220.00 pr
66 F-85/Cutlass grille  (nice)  $55.00
66 F-85 Trunk Lid  (nice)  $120.00
66 330 cu in 2 bbl engine (complete w/trans, 17,000 original miles)  $300.00  
66 Cutlass/442 Hood Molding  (good cond)  $30.00
66-67 AM Radios (nice)  $30.00 ea
66-67 RH Hardtop Doors (very nice)  $130.00 ea
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
66 Cutlass/442 Full Turbine Hubcaps (very, very nice)  $230.00 set
Cutlass/442 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
LH C/S Rear side molding  $10.00                                              
Post Coupe Exterior A-Pillar Chrome Moldings  $15.00 pr                        
F-85/Cutlass Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea                                  

67 Cutlass/442
66-67 Rear Side window lower U-seals (new, Metro Moulded)  $18.00 pr
67 400 442 intake manifolds #390390  $90.00 ea
67 Cutlass Fender Emblems (nice)  $10.00 ea
67 Plain Cutlass Fender Rockets (nice)  $5.50 ea
67 Rear Defrost setup (w/switch)  $55.00
66-67 AM Radios  (nice)  $30.00 ea
66-67 RH Hardtop/Conv Doors (very nice)  $130.00 ea
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
67 F-85 Rear Bumper (very good condition)  $75.00
67 442 Grille Bar  (nice)  $40.00
67 442 Hood (some rust)  $85.00
67 Front Bumper (straight, core)  $70.00
67 Cutlass Headlight Bezels (nice)  $65.00 pr
67 442 Trunk Lids (clean)  $130.00 ea
67 442 Pie Tin Decal  $5.00
67 442 Chrome Trunk Panel (excellent)  $135.00
67 442 Tail Light Bezels (some pitting)  $60.00 pr
67 RH Fender (small hole, straight)  $200.00

68 Cutlass/442
68 Hood Hinges  $55.00 pr 
68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
68-69 LH Quarter Panel  4 door (mint)  $225.00
68-69 RH Quarter Panel  4 door (mint)  $225.00
68-72 Cutlass S LH Rear Side Glass (clear)  $35.00              
Rear Window Molding Sets  $85.00 set                               
68 Cutlass/442 Std Horn Button (black, nice)  $7.00                     
68 Air Cleaner Stove Pipe (pipe only)  $10.00                              
68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $20.00 ea                                            
68-72 Cowl mouldings  $25.00 ea                                
68-72 B-Pillar Molding Set (black, mint) $27.50 pr 

69 Cutlass/442
69 Headlight Bezels  $60.00 pr
69 Lower Dash (radio area)  (nice)  $45.00
69 C/S Side Moldings  $20.00 ea
68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
68-69 LH Quarter Panel 4 door (mint)  $225.00
68-69 RH Quarter Panel 4 door (mint)  $225.00
69 Cutlass/442 Doors (mint pair)  $300.00 pr / $160.00 ea
Hood Hinges  $50.00 pr                                                       
Hood Louver Chrome  $35.00 pr                                          
Hood Louver Moldiings  $35.00 pr                                        
Windshield Molding Sets  $65.00 set                                 
Rear Window Molding Sets  $85.00 set                                
69-72 Floor Shift Steering Column (very good)  $100.00
69 Cutlass/442 Front Bumper (good cond) $100.00
69 LH Top Fender Moldings (excellent) $35.00
69 LH Fender (tiny rust hole)  $250.00
69 RH Fender (small nickel sized hole)  $250.00
69 Rear Bumper (V05 rub strip) one small ding  $135.00
69 Front and Rear 4 Doors  (small dings, no rust) $75.00 ea
69 4 Door Panels (Gold, cloth, nice)  $40.00 ea

70 Cutlass/442
70 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
70 Cutlass Supreme Hood (excellent)  $125.00
70 442/SX/Rally 350 Rear Cutout Bumper (CORE)  $110.00
70-71 Halo Vinyl Top Molding sets no "L " moldings (mint) $55.00 set
70-72 455 Std. Iron intake manifold (auto cars)  $75.00
70-72 Std. Console Shift Lens  (repro)  $23.00 ea
70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switch Bezels  $5.00 ea             
70 RH Sport Mirror Shell  $40.00
70 F-85 Horn Button (cheap style wheel, excellent)  $10.00
70 Oldsmobile Options Folder  $5.00                                    
69-70 C/S Front Hood Rocket (nice)  $12.00                                
"S" Hood Chrome Vents  $35.00 pr                                        
"S" Hood Vent Moldings  $35.00 pr                                        
"S" Pillared Coupe Door Panels (good cond)  $40.00 pr         
Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $100.00                                  
Black A/C Dash Pads  $120.00 ea                  
Gold Auto Shift Console  $90.00 (no shifter)                   
70-71 Glove Box Doors  $15.00 ea
70-72 RH Fender (has small patch panel)   $200.00                               
70 Cutlass 'S' Tail Light Lens   $10.00 ea
70 Cutlass Supreme Tail Light Lens  $15.00 ea
70 Cutlass Supreme Flat Hood   $125.00

71 Cutlass/442
71 Cutlass Full Wheel Covers  $30.00 set
71-72 Sport Mirrors (excellent cond)  $110.00 pr 
71-72 Cutlass S/442 Hood Louvers (nice)  $38.00 pr                     
71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00
71 Front Rocket Emblem (nice)  $5.00
C/S LH/RH Side Glass  $25.00 ea 
71 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr

72 Cutlass/442
71-72 10 Bolt 2.56:1 (open rear)  $75.00
71-72 Sport Mirrors (excellent cond)  $100.00 pr 
72 Cutlass/442 Owners Manual  $7.00                                  
71-72 Cutlass S/442 Hood Louvers (nice)  $35.00 pr                     
71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00
72 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr            

We will be at the Eastern Virginia Oldsmobile Clubs Veteran's Day show in
Chesapeake, VA on the 8th of November, and at the AACA swapmeet on the 15th
of November in Chesapeake VA.

* Due to the rarity of some parts, we reserve the right to make market
adjustments on prices without notice.

Jim Chermack
OCA #24275

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 23:13:25 EDT
From: johnmonnin1@juno.com (John K Monnin)
Subject: Parts availability and steering wheel removal.

I just got my year one catalog and I am a little disappointed.  It has a
lot of parts but 69 cutlass parts seem to be in short supply.  Is there a
better source for parts for my 69.  Such as grills , key sets that
include glove box door(my glove box lock spins in circles and is
permanently locked).

Also I have a 3 spoke sport wheel(brushed aluminum spokes with horn in
round center cap).  What size is that stupid nut anyways.  I have a good
socket set but sockets that fit through the hole in the horn switch are
too small and next size socket can't fit through switch.  I can't figure
out how to remove the horn switch without removing the wheel, Any
suggestions?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Oct 1997 00:07:39 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: "Terrifying Toronado" in this month's Hot Rod-Memories

Charley Buehner wrote:
> 
> Don Sowers wrote:
> >
> > Robert Barry wrote:
> > >
> > > Well, it's not a very big picture, but it is the only one I've seen. On p.
> > > 98 of the November Hot Rod, there's a picture by Petersen photographer Jim
> > > Kelly of John Smyser's "Terrifying Toronado"
> 
> I haven't seen the issue yet, but is this the same critter in question
> here???
> 
> http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/dragtoro.jpg
> 
>              Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
>              Box 524               | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
>              Sidney, Montana 59270 | http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
>              "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
>              "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
>              "TRBO LVR" (Maybe???:)| '83 Turbo Regal
>                      Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!
Charley, if it is they had two of them.  The one I saw was a Toro, no
doubt about it because I thought it was one of the coolest looking rides
made in 1966-67.  My best friend bought a 66 a few years later.  He said
it was a great drive-in car.  I wonder what he meant.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 22:11:50 -0600
From: Tim Rudolph <trudolph@frii.com>
Subject: Blinker speed

Just a quick question,
  My 69 442's turn signals blink pretty quickly..  How might I slow 'em
down to 'standard' speed?  Any ideas?  The hazards blink at the proper
speed, just not the turn signals.. Thanks.

Tim Rudolph
trudolph@frii.com
'69 442 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 21:01:49 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: hurst olds found 

How strange - I thought the black and gold '75's were the W-30's/BB and the
white and gold '75 (which I had) were the W-25/SB.  Hmm, never saw them any
different then that before - experts?  Your opinion here please.


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser 

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 21:05:47 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: 230,000 mi.

The Vista Cruiser (& I :-) ) recently passed 230,000.  When the old girl's
(the VC not mine) timing & carb are adjusted properly (hard to do as the
distributor is original and has a tendency to wander at will, advancing &
retarding the timing as it sees fit) we can still get up and get outta
(some) peoples way!!  Surprising in a car thats only rated at 180 HP & 4500
lbs. of sheet metal.

She gets her heart transplant in the spring (a '67 4-4-2 400 CID metal-mover).





Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser 

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 21:17:41 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: 67 Delta

Did you find anything out on the pieces I inquired about for the '67?


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser 

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 21:10:27 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Color codes

What was the name for that common gold found on Cutlasses?  A elderly
family-in-law relative had a '69 Cutlass in that color and I've always
liked it. Considering painting Ruby the '64 that color (except everyone
gives me that baleful stare at home since the other 2 Olds' are painted
cream & gold is close to cream in their eyes & their are sick of my similar
colored cars!!!!!!!!!).

Or what is the code for the flat navy blue color used in '67?


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser 

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 21:16:59 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: For Sale

Got this message off my bulletin board.  Reply privately to Pagination@usa.net

Subject: 65 Olds Jetstar 88 for sale

65 Olds Jetstar 88 Convertible, 330, 2-barrel GTO tripower center carb,
10.5 to 1 compression, 86000 miles, transmission overhauled, new brake
lines, major tuneup. New white top, all glass intact, beautiful dash, stock
wire wheel covers, dealer installed hang-on AC, dark blue body. Needs new
seat vinyl, radiator, fan. Recently hit in nose - not major, definitely
restorable, no frame damage. Always garaged. Make offer.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Oct 1997 00:23:42 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Floor Work

Jim & Joanne Chermack wrote:
> 
> At 09:27 PM 9/30/97 -0500, you wrote:
>         The best thing to coat the floor with prior to the carpet install is
> POR-15. This product is worth every penny it costs as far as I'm concerned.
> 
> My $.02
> 
> Jim Chermack
> C&M Classic Parts
> 
> >Today I removed the very tattered carpet from my 66 Olds 98 Convert.  I found
> >that the floor is in good shape with only minor surface rust that could be
> >easily removed.  I would like to take off what rust there is and repaint it
> >before I put carpet down.  What is the best way to go about doing this?  Just
> >sanding, priming, and painting?  Or is there something else I should do also?
> >Also, where is the best place to get molded carpet and the padding for
> >underneath?  What type of padding/insulation should I use under the carpet?
> One
> >last one!  I haven't been able to figure out what the actuall "name" of the
> >colors of my interior are.  The seats/top of door panels are red and the
> >carpet/dash is more of a dark burgundy, what's it's name?  Any and all help is
> >much appreciated!
> >
> >Jerod S.
> >
> >
> >
Jim,

What kind of product is POR-15?  It sounds a lot like my bank account
when I run out of money before I run out of month.  Does it replace
paint, primer etc. or is sprayed over them?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 21:29:20 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: '72 Axle code

What is the SA code for  a '72 rear end?


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser 

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Oct 1997 00:27:20 -0400
From: "Adcock, Jason K." <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Blinker speed

All right, don't laugh.  I have a dumb suggestion here.  Is your flasher a
"Heavy Duty" flasher?  I saw them at Wal-Mart and didn't buy it when I
replaced mine, but maybe if the system doesn't have much resistence...then
maybe the Heavy Duty flasher would put out too much power and would blink
at a faster rate than a less powerful flasher would have.

Can anybody with actual EE experience back me up here?  I hope this might
lead to something that will help...:-)

Tim Rudolph wrote:
> 
> Just a quick question,
>   My 69 442's turn signals blink pretty quickly..  How might I slow 'em
> down to 'standard' speed?  Any ideas?  The hazards blink at the proper
> speed, just not the turn signals.. Thanks.

- -- 
Jason K. Adcock
jadcock@vt.edu

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 1997 00:31:41 -0400 (EDT)
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: last chance to Vote Olds

In a message dated 97-09-30 20:58:52 EDT, you write:

<< what is the address to vote? >>
 <A HREF="http://www.myclassiccar.com/cover.html">My Classic Car Online!</A>
just click here and go to photo gallery

W MACHINES

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Oct 1997 00:29:25 -0700
From: Larry <dilligaf@tl.infi.net>
Subject: Re: '68 Toro cam specs; who has a '68 shop manual?

According to the manual the "one green stripe" and the "one green and
one orange stripe" are the same.  The top two timing events are 20 and
24 degrees.  The "two white" or "two white and one orange"  has a 24 and
33 degree reading.  Hope this helps.
							Larry

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Oct 1997 00:33:00 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Blinker speed

Tim Rudolph wrote:
> 
> Just a quick question,
>   My 69 442's turn signals blink pretty quickly..  How might I slow 'em
> down to 'standard' speed?  Any ideas?  The hazards blink at the proper
> speed, just not the turn signals.. Thanks.
> 
> Tim Rudolph
> trudolph@frii.com
> '69 442 Convertible

Tim, this probably has nothing to do with your problem, but I have
noticed the turn signals on several cars I've owned would blink much
faster in some cases (and in some cars they would go slower) if all the
lights on that side of the car were not working properly, i. e., bad
bulb, not making proper contact, etc.  I doubt this would be your
problem though.  I seem to remember you could change the flasher down in
the fuse box section and vary the speed also.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Oct 1997 00:36:41 -0700
From: Larry <dilligaf@tl.infi.net>
Subject: Re: '72 Axle code

SA is a 2.73 open rear.  SB was the anti-spin rear.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 22:49:42 -0700
From: Stan Drahos <sdrahos@gte.net>
Subject: Re: new modine radiator

AllNiteLng@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 97-09-29 12:40:44 EDT, you write:
> 
> << ins are green... :p ), but looks up something in his book and says he can
>  give me a brand-new Modine unit with lifetime warranty for $132, and yes,
>  it's in stock. >>
> 
>             Hey Doc,
>                           Could you have the guy look up a new rad for an '80
> OLDS TORONADO Diesel 350 with auto tranny and oil cooler lines? Mine is in
> need of repair but if its cheap enough it would pay for me to get a new one.
> 
>                    Thanks,
>                                Ed


   Maybe we should talk, I pulled the radiator from my '80 Toronado
Diesel a month ago.  It has the same cooler lines you mentioned. 
Blow-by got the best of it 5 years ago, I just sent it to the scrap
yard.  I had bought a gas 350 to put into it but in the mean time they
started checking emissions here.  I knew it wouldn't pass that so I gave
up.
  I pulled things like power antenna, power window motors and switches,
AM-FM radio, automatic load leveling air pump for the rear air shocks
and water pump. 
Please write if any of that sounds interesting.
Stan Drahos
sdrahos@gte.net
'67 442 Conv.
'67 442 Conv.
'68 442 Hrdtp.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 1997 02:39:51 -0400 (EDT)
From: Surmise@aol.com
Subject: Fwd: '67 442

- ---------------------
Forwarded message:
Subj:    '67 442
Date:    97-10-01 02:26:51 EDT
From:    Surmise
To:      bryce_smith@scilab.com

i am about to purchase a convertable '67 442 that i have been looking for a
long time, however, i am not sure this is a true 442.  it has an emblem but
the vin does not indicate that it is a 442.  can you give me any info on this
vin 3386 77 m 3790 92 ?  thank you, john

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Oct 1997 03:11:59 -0400
From: Howie <qcquad@cuny.campus.mci.net>
Subject: Re: '72 Axle code

I hope your not counting on the stamp as actually whats in the
differential. Mine said R2, but it didn't feel like a 2.56 (like the
code said). I opened her up and counted out 3.08.

Howie
71 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 1997 05:57:47 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: '67 442

Not on the list, so reply directly...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date:	Wed, 1 Oct 1997 02:39:51 -0400 (EDT)
From:	Surmise@aol.com
Subject: Fwd: '67 442

i am about to purchase a convertable '67 442 that i have been looking for a
long time, however, i am not sure this is a true 442.  it has an emblem but
the vin does not indicate that it is a 442.  can you give me any info on this
vin 3386 77 m 3790 92 ?  thank you, john

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 1997 06:00:32 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Parts availability and steering wheel removal 

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	johnmonnin1@juno.com (John K Monnin)
Date:	Tue, 30 Sep 1997 23:13:25 EDT

I just got my year one catalog and I am a little disappointed.  It has a
lot of parts but 69 cutlass parts seem to be in short supply.  Is there a
better source for parts for my 69.  Such as grills , key sets that
include glove box door(my glove box lock spins in circles and is
permanently locked).

Also I have a 3 spoke sport wheel(brushed aluminum spokes with horn in
round center cap).  What size is that stupid nut anyways.  I have a good
socket set but sockets that fit through the hole in the horn switch are
too small and next size socket can't fit through switch.  I can't figure
out how to remove the horn switch without removing the wheel, Any
suggestions?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Oct 1997 06:22:37 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: '72 Axle code

At 09:29 PM 9/30/97 -0700, you wrote:
Lisa

        `The SA code is a 2.73:1 open rear end code. SB is 2.73:1 anti-spin.

Jim Chermack



>What is the SA code for  a '72 rear end?
>
>
>Lisa Madsen
>Anaheim, CA
>
>'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
>Cruiser 
>
>Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com
>
>My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/
>
>Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
>Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/
>
>*** NEW ***
>Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
>http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 1997 04:51:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: John Kenneth Monnin <jkm0004@jove.acs.unt.edu>
Subject: 69 Cutlass with f-body disc brakes <fwd>

I would thank everyone who sent replies but I would
still like to hear from anybody who has done a disc 
brake conversion to a 69 Cutlass using disc brake 
spindles and rotors from a second Generation F-Body?


On Mon, 29 Sep 1997 16:23:13 -0400 (EDT) John Kenneth Monnin 
<jkm0004@jove.acs.unt.edu> wrote:

> Has anybody done a disc brake conversion to a 69 Cutlass using 
> discbrakespindles and rotors from a second Generation F-Body?
> I bought spindles and rotors off of a 77 Firebird because my 
> friends(who have now claimed ignorance) claimed they would work great 
> to lower the car.  When I called several suspension component companies 
> they told me 3 different things. 
> 1) Might no be able to meet alignement specs.
> 2) Might have to modify lower control arm to accept F-body ball joints
> 3) Stock spindles and lowered springs will work better anyways...buy 
> our kit.
> Before I make a mistake by using these parts I would like to hear from 
> anybody who has tried a similar swap or has front spindles for sale.
> 
> My new E-Mail address is johnmonnin1@juno.com.
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Oct 1997 03:07:12 -0700
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Top Speed

Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician wrote:
> 
> excitement, throw in a 2000 stall converter, but not sure how much
> more exciting it will get with a 307.

I don't think that is fair to the 307.  Even though it is not as
powerful as a 350/400/425/455 it still is a respectable motor.  It
is just that darned tranny that sucks.  I have an 82 DRB automatic
which I drive like a stick and I get a lot better response out of it.
If I had a more responsive tranny, I would assume a lot better respnose
there too.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Oct 1997 07:51:06 -0400
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: RE: Color codes

On Tuesday, September 30, 1997 5:05 PM, Paul Hartlieb [SMTP:plh@nbn.net]
wrote:
> Etzel, Bobby wrote:
> 
> > Sorry if I passed along bad info here, but the chart I have said
53/03
> > for the 1969 Olds is Nugget Gold. Is 03 for 69 nugget gold. Maybe 53
is
> > used by Ch*v or Pont., which is also listed. I know they changed the
> > code each year for the colors.
> 
> The color book for '69 says the code for Nugget Gold is X.  The ID #
> book says the code is 03.  Either way, it was a special order color
only
> available on Toronados for '69.
> 
> Paul
> -- 
> Paul Hartlieb
> plh@nbn.net
> '67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
> '72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

Thanks Paul, that clears that up. I will note it on my chart.


Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the.....Past

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Oct 1997 08:35:21 -0400
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: RE: Blinker speed

On Wednesday, October 01, 1997 12:33 AM, Don Sowers
[SMTP:dstaxpro@lex.infi.net] wrote:
>> 
> Tim, this probably has nothing to do with your problem, but I have
> noticed the turn signals on several cars I've owned would blink much
> faster in some cases (and in some cars they would go slower) if all
the
> lights on that side of the car were not working properly, i. e., bad
> bulb, not making proper contact, etc.  I doubt this would be your
> problem though.  I seem to remember you could change the flasher down
in
> the fuse box section and vary the speed also.

If the flasher was change to a old type heavy duty one, designed for
when you pull a trailer, that will cause this to happen.  I used to pull
a trailer and I would have to put in the heavy duty one with the trailer
hooked up, and change it out with the trailer unhooked. The newer types
dont seem to have this trouble. As Don said, make sure all the bulbs are
working and you have the correct flasher.

Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the ....Past

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 1997 07:43:19 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: Top Speed

> > excitement, throw in a 2000 stall converter, but not sure how much
> > more exciting it will get with a 307.
> 

My intensions were not to slam the 307, you can do alot with it, but 
my point was to express the HP Rating compared to 350, 400, ect...the 
2000 stall converter depending upon its manufacturer has best 
performance ratings between the 250-300 hp ratings, I don't know of 
to many 300 hp 307's, thats what I was trying to get at. Granted you 
can get aftermarket parts for the 307 to make it a screamer, no doubt 
about that, but the point was the hp rating, I apologize if I 
insulted any 307 owners.


> I don't think that is fair to the 307.  Even though it is not as
> powerful as a 350/400/425/455 it still is a respectable motor.  It
> is just that darned tranny that sucks.  I have an 82 DRB automatic
> which I drive like a stick and I get a lot better response out of it.
> If I had a more responsive tranny, I would assume a lot better respnose
> there too.
> 
> Chris Sparks
> 

- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Oct 1997 07:53:43 -0500
From: "Easton,Jeffrey" <Jeff.Easton@abbott.com>
Subject: HEI questions

After going a few rounds with Bob Handren a couple weeks
ago regarding Pertronix vs. HEI, I figured I should look into
the HEI alternative before I do something rash (like install
the Pertronix :-).  So last week I took a day off and went
junkyarding, and came home with the following HEI distributers.

1>  Pulled from a '76 Olds 98 w/ 455, dist. is stamped
    1112936 5E31.

    This dist. is good for core value only, as it was found
    missing the cap, rotor and module.  In the process of
    getting the module, the previous person bent up the plate
    the rotor screws to, and managed to damage the magnets also.

2>  Pulled from a '80 Olds Delta 88, presumably a 307, dist. is
    stamped 1103412 0A11.

    This dist. is interesting in that it has an extra lead
    that comes from the HEI module and is routed out of the
    dist. from its own grommet on the other side if the vac.
    advance canister.  Its a short pigtail ending in a in-line
    fuse.  The pigtail connects to the module on a new pin marked
    "R".  What is this lead for?

3>  Pulled from a '76 Olds 98 w/ 455, dist. is stamped
    1103212 6C13.

    Got this one from a different junkyard and it is complete.
    Has a typical four pin HEI module.

Here are the questions;

On dist. ¦2, whats the extra wire for?  I pulled this one
thinking that '80 was a non-computer controlled year.  It looks
like I could drop in the older style 4 pin HEI module and still
use this one.  Correct?

All three are pretty crudded up.  Is there such a thing as a HEI
rebuild kit?  I'm thinking of tearing one down, cleaning it up,
new rubber O-ring seal, new bushings for the counter weights, etc.
Is this possible?  What should I use to clean up the aluminum
housing, which looks pretty oxidized?  How much up-down play
should there be in the shaft?  All three move up and down alot.

- -Jeff
1970 442  4-Speed
somewhere north of Chicago

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #879
********************************

