To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #852


oldsmobile-digest    Wednesday, September 17 1997    Volume 01 : Number 852



Re: torque converter for 1972 455
Re: OAI Hoods
Body bolt info
Re: charley Buehner
Re: Engine Swapout 70 350
Re: torque converter for 1972 455
Re: torque converter for 1972 455
repro OAI hoods
Re: 1902 curved dash info wanted
Re: 69 442 Convertible
Re: 80 Olds parking lights don't work....!@ª
Re: OAI Hoods
Re: 69 442 Convertible
Re: repro OAI hoods
Re: torque converter for 1972 455
RE:  WinD ChilL DoeS MatteR
Thermostats
Re: Ols in Europe
Fw: I don't know much yet...
RE: 72 Vista Cruiser, Re: 64 Vista-Cruiser
Re: Fw: I don't know much yet...
Leftovers, was Re: 72 Vista Cruiser, Re: 64 Vista-Cruiser
Re: Twin Batteries & Cold Weather Starting
[none]
Re: Engine Swapout 76-->70 350
Re: OAI Hoods
Oil pressure
Re: Body bolt info
Re:
Delta in Holland
Re: Engine Swapout 76-->70 350
All read! I don't know much yet...
Re: Tim's 4-4-2
Re: Tim's 4-4-2
Re: torque converter for 1972 455
Engine Parts

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 11:38:22 -0400
From: Joseph Gambaccini <jgambaccini@ci.richmond.va.us>
Subject: Re: torque converter for 1972 455

Mike Rothe wrote:

> If you are racing the car, then you would like to raise that stall
> speed
> to somewhere around 2800 or so.  During the race you really only need
> the stall from the starting line.  There are two types of stall you
> must
> be concerned with.  Flash stall is one of them.  But that's another
> ball
> game.
>
> I imagine you are wanting this to be a street cruiser, where, you
> won't
> be going from idle to 6000 rpm from the stop light.  High stall speeds
>
> on the street should not be used.  The higher the stall, the higher
> the
> trans fluid temps also, and waste some gas.  I recommend, since you
> have
> a "stock" cam, that you stick with the factory type stall speeds.  The
>
> stall speeds you listed from the manual are probably from the same
> type
> torque converter.  Advertised stall speeds are general.  Torque input
> has a lot to do with stall speed on the same converter.  More torque,
> more stall.  Simple as that.  You need to figure out what you want to
> do
> with the car, and buy/install parts accordingly.  A high stall
> converter
> alone won't make your car lightning quick.  You'll need gears,
> consider
> weight, engine mods, etc.  If still in doubt, call up one of the
> manufacturers of torque converters.  They can most likely help you
> determine which converter is best for your application.  If you tow a
> boat, for example, you may want to consider a low stall speed.  I run
> a
> 2200 TCI torque converter behind my "stock" 502 crate-motored 76 GMC
> truck.  It acts almost like a stock converter, because the truck is so
>
> darn heavy, but it also helps a little when I wind it up some..
>
> Just another idea......
>
> Mike Rothe:

hey mike, thanks!!!  it's an everyday car w/ the stock 258/272 adv. 433
lift (auto trans cam) and i'm not looking to take it to richmond motor
speedway and try it out in the 1/4.

gambo

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 11:44:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: WKBZZZZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: OAI Hoods

Mike Rothe

I am a network admin. for a engineering firm with plenty of access to
autocad.
I have never generated anything as complex as you descrided, but I would be
willing to give something a try if i had someone that could give me some hand
sketches to start with. I'm not an engineer but I do have some understanding
of what this would take and it would not be quick task. I don't even own a
OAI hood right now to start taking dimensions from. Just offering to help!


Keith Brumbley
71 442 conv.

P.S. Let do the 71-72 first (guess why, Ha Ha)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 11:34:41 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Body bolt info

Hello all,

Jon Wessel was the only reply I got for my question on body bolts.
Thanks Jon. I took his advice and talked to the dealership.
Painstaking.  While I probably could find used ones, I would rather go
new.  So I went another route.  I investigated.  Here's what I found:

For anyone interested in obtaining OEM type bolts, fasteners, clips,
etc., Auto Vehicle Parts Company in Covington, KY probably has all the
stuff you would need.  (Au-ve-co trade name, go ahead, look at some of
the original rubber bumpers and bolts, you'll probably see this name)

Their address is P.O. Box 17350, 7 Sperti Drive, Covington, KY 41017.

Phone is 800-354-9816, fax 606-331-5590

If you call, you want customer service and ask them for a catalog.  They
have just about everything in the fastener department.  I just placed a
catalog request, and they are sending it out today.

It's true you can also get the parts at body shops, etc., but I like to
reference my own parts, since I'm the one using them, and if you order
directly from the manufacturer, sometimes you can get better pricing,
and may not have to wait if your jobber is out of a particular item.

This is called "sharing knowledge".

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 10:46:06 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: charley Buehner

I don't know about the 76, but my 78 never had a problem other than
the water pump going out at 132,000, other than that, still going
strong.


> Well, it seems to me that you really know your stuff.
> That give's me the oppurtunity to ask you about my car overhere in the
> Netherlands.
> I am trying to restaurate an olds delta 88 royale town sedan from 1976.
> It has got a SMALL BLOCK 350.
> There has to be a little body work to be done and make it ready for the
> weather overhere. In the time that I am working on the car I have found a
> lot of information about it, but what I haven;t found out is how the car is
> technicaly.
> I mean did they have a lot of problems? Are there problems that are "just"
> happen with the delta 88 of that year. Is there something I have to give
> special atention. Is there something I really not should do. And stuff like
> that.
> I hope I did not ask you to much but I hope you can help me out a bit.
> Anyway greetings from Holland!
> Archy
>
- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 10:52:56 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: Engine Swapout 70 350

Thanks, yes, it does definatly help!

> and orange wires and a plug. This connects to the kick down switch for the
> TH400. You may have to change the gas pedal assm from the Buick also. The
> only other thing to remember is the transmission mount is different and so
> is the front yoke of the driveshaft. Hope this helps.
>
> Jim Chermack
>
>
- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 16:39:38 GMT
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: torque converter for 1972 455

>I have a 1972 442 w/ 455, Turbo 400, 3:23.  The trans in the car now is
[snip]
>I have a rebuilt trans with a torque converter but i'm not sure if the
>tq conv. would be best with this year car and engine.  I read in "turbo
>400 transmission" that most GM torque converters have a stall bt. 1250
>and 1900 rpm.
>
>I heard all kinds of answers about the torque converter:  no, there's no
>difference; there's a minor difference but you won't feel it, there's a
>major difference; try a 2000 stall; try a stall that has an rpm the same
>as your max torque rpm.....'heck, that would be 2800 rpm.  Wrong!  i
>have a stock cam in there...

You'll feel a major difference. I put a 2400 stall converter in my Electra
after I built the 403, and even with the 2.41 rear the off-the-line
acceleration improved, as the engine could get into its power band much more
quickly. Just add a tranny cooler to deal with the increased heat.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 09:47:13 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: torque converter for 1972 455

Joseph Gambaccini wrote:

> major difference; try a 2000 stall; try a stall that has an rpm the same
> as your max torque rpm.....'heck, that would be 2800 rpm.  Wrong!  i
> have a stock cam in there...

Ok I'll show my ignorance again. :-)  I don't understand 2000 rpm stall
means.  Is it the max rpm before an automatic will shift?  Please help
me understand.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 10:02:01 -0500 (CDT)
From: Rick Kromeich <rickk@ecg.csg.mot.com>
Subject: repro OAI hoods

Correct me if I am wrong, but I was under the impression that ASC&P in
Penn. had a fiberglass hood with the metal frame support.  This is the
company that I mentioned about a week ago that was retooling from a fire
and wasn't expecting to have them until March of next year. Jim Chermack
might be able to shed some more light on them, but when I called the co.,
I got the impression the hoods were going to be very nice and priced around
$500.00.  If that is correct, they should have a hot seller!

- -Rick
72 Cutlass Supreme Convert.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 12:58:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: senko@reston.ans.net (Andrew A. Senko)
Subject: Re: 1902 curved dash info wanted

>
> This past weekend my wife and I hosted a car show locally.  One of the
> entrants was a 1902 Curved Dash.  I had seen the car around and always
> thought it was one of the reproduction copies.  The owner claims it is
> genuine.  The car is running a Briggs and Stratton engine in place of
> the missing original.  It also has a 2 speed with reverse, transmission.
> The body sets on large leaf springs, one on each side.  They run front
> to rear with the axles mounting to them.  After looking the car over I
> feel it may be the real thing, but I did not look at any of the
> originals in Lansing close enough to be certain.  The owner did say that
> he had to get replacement wire spoke wheels custom made to the correct
> size.  He claims that 1902 was the only year to get the wire wheels.
> I am hoping someone can help with this mystery or at least point me in
> the right direction.
>
> Thanks,
> Dave Wyatt
> 70  4-4-2
>


Dave,

I can't answer any of your questions, but I have a few comments anyway.

I noticed the same "suspension" in Lansing that you did, the two leaf
springs holding the whole thing off the ground.  I also noticed that some
cars in Lansing had wooden wheels, and others had wire spokes.  At the
time, I theorized that the wire spokes were modern replacements for
expensive or hard to replace wooden wheels.  When I got home from Lansing,
I looked through "Setting The Pace" and noticed that several of the
original photos showed wire spoked wheels.  So much for my theory.

So maybe 1902 was the only year for wire spokes.  Who knows?  I guess the
people that restored these vehicles for car shows in the 1930's must have
spent a lot of time looking for factory original wire spoke wheels.

"Hey, I'm restoring a 1902 Olds, and I need those wire spokes.  Got any?  I
can't do a proper restoration without them.  I'd trade this 1901 horn for a
decent set of wheels.  How's it going to look decades from now when I go to
an OCA event with the wrong wheels?  Do you think I'll lose points?"  ;-)

By the way, all of the Curved Dash Runabouts were convertibles (or just
plain topless).  You should always respect the R.E. Olds design of driving
without a roof!
- --
                    _
                    |\            Convertibles
     .__====-_._____|_\______         Rule!                        Drew Senko
     [   ___  |-     |  ___  \                           senko@reston.ans.net
     =\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)               http://members.aol.com/drewinva
_________\_/____________\_/__________________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 16:53:51 GMT
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: 69 442 Convertible

>  I decided to purchase the car I had mentioned a week or two ago, and I
>picked it up today.  Despite its 'problems' it turned out to be exactly
>what I was looking for and exactly in my price range for the time being,
>and like I said.. couldn't have picked a car I wanted more.  I think I was
>misleading before when I was talking about parts being removed from the
>car..  They were removed but were still included in boxes that came with
>the car.  The guy was also nice enough to put some of the parts back in
>(heater core, fender wells) as well as setting me up with a matching set of
>SSII wheels and some matching tires.

With some nice rims and a new top, that car will turn heads as it sits
(well, as soon as you clean out that interior! :p ). If in fact all those
parts were gone for good, you'd have a real fun time trying to track them
down. For now, you've got yourself a 1:1 scale model car; just consider the
1969 Assembly Manual to be the instruction sheet.

>I'm proud of my purchase and I do
>know that it needs some work, and thats what I'm willing to do with it.

That's the fun part; you'll get to know your car inside-out, and know that
it's put together right.

>And also it's good to know that I saved it from being parted out to another
>guy who was looking at it.  Anyway.. just thought I'd update you guys..
>if you want to take a look at it you can check out
>http://www.frii.com/~trudolph/  There are some pictures of it in all its
>glory (hah, yeah right)..

Well, I for one am glad that you saved it from being parted out. The body
seems to be rather straight, and you can get that thing driveable with
little effort. I was under the impression that you'd have to have the car up
on blocks for five years before it hit pavement; not a good way to start a
project. I'll have to send Bryceman some pictures of my SX, so you'll know
how far things have to be gone before I'll consider something to be a "parts
car" (and no, the SX is not for parting, but for restoring, despite its
looks...).
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 12:01:01 -0500
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Subject: Re: 80 Olds parking lights don't work....!@ª

>> All of a sudden my parking lights have stopped working on my 80 442,
>> along with my dash lights. Both went out at the same time.

Since the dash backlighting runs via a takeoff from the parking light
circuit, and the parking lights/tailights are dead as well, the fault
is in the exterior lighting, not the dash.

>> I checked the obvious (fuses, bulbs) and put in
>> several fuses thinking they might be bad.

Well, I kind of think you've missed one, then. Check them systematically,
even if the fusebox label is illegible or looks irrelevant. (It's also
easy to misread which socket the label is referring to; been there, done
that.) And at the risk of suggesting something unlikely, any chance one
fuse was "borrowed" for some reason, and your problem is due to a
completely empty socket in the taillight circuit?

>> I am leaning towards a ground problem? If so where?

Nope. A ground problem usually results in current doubling back through
other circuits, most often taillamps lighting up the turn signals and
vice-versa, but in this case you're telling us the circuit is just plain
dead; i.e. there's no power getting in.

>> Any advice is greatly appreciated.

As Charley says, check your fuses again. But of course, you also need
to find the short. Charley has several good suggestions, and I'd add
one more that happened to me: The right rear marker light wire in the
trunk runs fairly close to the spare tire and jack. Mine got pinched
by the lug wrench one day and grounded, blowing the exterior lighting
circuit fuse and consequently killing the dash lighting as well. (I
kind of think GM designed this intentionally to give you a clue that
your exterior lighting is out. Now if they could only do something
about the clueless wonders driving around with dead brake lights...)

> I don't think any ~one~ ground would knock all those out,

Well, yeah, it's one fuse controlling front parking, side markers,
taillamps and rear license plate, plus feeding the dash backlighting
which has its own downstream fuse.

> since the dash runs one ground, the front park lights run another
> ground (often shared with the turning lamps) and the taillights
> share yet another ground.  If any one ground is removed, you'd
> likely experience some backfeeding problems, like a turn signal
> that doesn't work right, and stays lit dimly all the time, etc...

This is true as far as troubleshooting ground problems, but the
issue here is power feed, and all the above share the same one
(except the turn signals).

> Also, the dash lights are powered by a 5A fuse that's powered
> by the park light circuit.  (That fuse should be hiding on the
> upper left corner of the fuse block, labelled "INST".  I ~think~
> the fuse you should be looking for would be labelled "TAIL"

That sounds about right. The INST fuse will be fine; it's the TAIL
that's dead.

And don't forget, you still have to find the short that blew the
fuse in the first place. I'd start with the trunk, especially if
you have a bunch of stuff rolling around in it.

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 13:02:32 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: OAI Hoods

WKBZZZZ@aol.com wrote:
> I don't even own a
> OAI hood right now to start taking dimensions from. Just offering to help!
>
Actually, unless you don't have a hood at all, some of the dimensions
are right there "under the hood".  Starting with the 71/72 hood would be
more feasible, in my opinion, since the hood would fit many more cars
than the 70 hood.  Not saying that the 70 hood should take a back seat
by no means.  But there must be more 71/72s running around than there
are 70s, by means of sheer numbers originally produced.

The extreme front of the hood, where the grille openings are, and the
slope of the hood along the fender lines from front to back, and the
general width and length dimensions are all the same.  So some of the
dimensions are already there, even using a steel hood.  I have an
original fiber hood on mine that I can take dimensions on, but some of
the curves and things, well, admittedly I'm not a geometry expert.  But
before we start investing a grunch of time on this, there needs to be
some serious commitments made to see this thing through.  I'm not a
design expert, so I don't know if I'd be the right person to spearhead
this type of project.  But I'm willing to provide input where I can, so
I'm calling out for anyone interested in doing this project to come
together and figure this out as far as feasibility.  Anything is
possible, so it will end up an issue of cash flow.

Another idea, and I'm not sure if anyone would submit their hood, is to
contact a manufacturer willing to cradle-to-grave the project, get
estimates for the job, then if the price is right, get an original hood
delivered to the manufacturer, and let them go to work.

The fact being, is to establish a number, say, 150 hoods, and then
estimate from there.  Say, if it costs 100,000 to get 150 hoods made,
then you are looking at around 667 per hood, and say, 90 for shipping to
your door.  750 for a 'new' hood would be a good thing.  However, you
must have 150 obligated orders to do this.  That means paid in advance.
That also means when the project turns into a "GO", then the money
better be there to pay the manufacturer, so there's gotta be some trust
involved.  That's the tough part.

Say for instance, if it costs 100K, and someone is designated to collect
the cash (person who placed the order), the money better be there when
it's time to pay.  Otherwise, there will be a lot of pissed off people,
and the manufacturer will want their money anyway.  Records of who
ordered hoods must be kept, and receipt vouchers must be given to people
with the orders.  This way, someone can't say "I ordered a hood, where
is it?" when in fact they didn't even order one.  Cost overruns must
also be mailed to the people in advance, and invoice copies must be kept
so people won't think they're being ripped off.  Refunds would be given
only in the event the deal didn't go through.  Once production starts,
you will get a hood.  This doesn't even include shipping prices.  A lot
of things need to be considered here.

When doing projects of this magnitude, there cannot be any "I'll sit
back and wait until they're on the market" types.  You do that, and you
won't get a hood.  Manufacturers are like anyone else.  They will do it
for a price.  The more you order, the less per unit.  The objective is
to meet or beat the price on the market of original used hoods.
Otherwise we'll be peeing in the wind.  Of course, if there were 500
people interested, then 300 commit, (you always will have attrition of
the "me too's") then you could probably save even more.  The key is to
do it in large of numbers as possible.

The ideal candidate to spearhead this type of operation, would be to
have a person who is knowlegeable about the hoods, has a car that the
hood would go on, and lives nearby a fabrication shop that has the
capabilities and willing to take on this type of work. This accomplishes
a lot of things, like easier access to the facility, to monitor
progress, and to trial fit a prototype hood on their car to see if it
fits (end-user quality control).

IMHO, I think it would be easier to contact a good fab outfit that has
engineering support for design, and get a rough estimate for this type
of work.  This way, we'll all have a good idea how much this will cost
us.  Providing a sample would inherently be way easier for the
manufacturer also, and more-than-likely have a suitable product right
from the start.

Keep in mind, this will not be cheap.  Any way it goes, it will not be
cheap.  But if you really want a hood, and can't find one, then
sometimes you have to bite the bullet.

Again, Mike Blankenship, provide some feed back on your experience.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 13:15:31 -0400
From: Joseph Gambaccini <jgambaccini@ci.richmond.va.us>
Subject: Re: 69 442 Convertible

Robert Barry wrote:

> >  I decided to purchase the car I had mentioned a week or two ago,
> and I
> >picked it up today.  Despite its 'problems' it turned out to be
> exactly
> >what I was looking for and exactly in my price range for the time
> being,
> >and like I said.. couldn't have picked a car I wanted more.  I think
> I was
> >misleading before when I was talking about parts being removed from
> the
> >car..  They were removed but were still included in boxes that came
> with
> >the car.  The guy was also nice enough to put some of the parts back
> in
> >(heater core, fender wells) as well as setting me up with a matching
> set of
> >SSII wheels and some matching tires..
>
> With some nice rims and a new top, that car will turn heads as it sits
>
> (well, as soon as you clean out that interior! :p ). If in fact all
> those
> parts were gone for good, you'd have a real fun time trying to track
> them
> down. For now, you've got yourself a 1:1 scale model car; just
> consider the
> 1969 Assembly Manual to be the instruction sheet..
>
> >I'm proud of my purchase and I do
> >know that it needs some work, and thats what I'm willing to do with
> it..
>
> That's the fun part; you'll get to know your car inside-out, and know
> that
> it's put together right..
>
> >And also it's good to know that I saved it from being parted out to
> another
> >guy who was looking at it.  Anyway.. just thought I'd update you
> guys...
> >if you want to take a look at it you can check out
> >http://www.frii.com/~trudolph/  There are some pictures of it in all
> its
> >glory (hah, yeah right)...
>
> Well, I for one am glad that you saved it from being parted out. The
> body
> seems to be rather straight, and you can get that thing driveable with
>
> little effort. I was under the impression that you'd have to have the
> car up
> on blocks for five years before it hit pavement; not a good way to
> start a
> project. I'll have to send Bryceman some pictures of my SX, so you'll
> know
> how far things have to be gone before I'll consider something to be a
> "parts
> car" (and no, the SX is not for parting, but for restoring, despite
> its
> looks...)..
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

it kills me how people get a car like that and do all kinds of half-arse
crap to it - results shown in those pictures.  looks like some paint got
on the conv. top, too.  thank god you "rescued" it from any other
"monkiers".

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 13:07:35 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: repro OAI hoods

Rick Kromeich wrote:
>
> Correct me if I am wrong, but I was under the impression that ASC&P in
> Penn. had a fiberglass hood with the metal frame support.  This is the
> company that I mentioned about a week ago that was retooling from a fire
> and wasn't expecting to have them until March of next year. Jim Chermack
> might be able to shed some more light on them, but when I called the co.,
> I got the impression the hoods were going to be very nice and priced around
> $500.00.  If that is correct, they should have a hot seller!
>

Rick, if this is true, then you are correct in it being a hot seller.
All this bantering about getting hoods made may all be for naught if
this company has a quality steel-underframe hood for around $500.  Why
re-invent the wheel?  I propose that not to let this issue die, but
instead to put it on hold till we find out what this company has, or
will have available, and maybe "assist" them on improvements if the need
arises.  Now all we need is a volunteer to spearhead this company's
"hood watch", and keep us informed of updates.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 13:32:32 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: torque converter for 1972 455

Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) wrote:
>
> Ok I'll show my ignorance again. :-)  I don't understand 2000 rpm stall
> means.  Is it the max rpm before an automatic will shift?  Please help
> me understand.
>

Nope.  Very simply put, the stall speed is when the rotor and stator in
the torque converter come together as "one" to impart the full input
torque to the tranny.  The higher the stall, the more "slip" in the
converter.  The engine revs freer into its torque band before it imparts
full torque to the trans, and well, there's books on this subject, so
I'm not going to get into it here.  It is a fluid coupler, and some slip
is desirable and necessary.  Otherwise, you won't be able to idle in
gear.  Think about a manual trans for a moment.  If you don't push in
the clutch pedal when coming up to a stop sign, the engine dies.  You
uncouple the engine from the drive train.  You automatic has the "slip"
built in to allow the engine to stay in gear at the light.  Now at the
same stop sign, dump the clutch at 650 rpm.  Engine will probably die.
Now, dump the clutch at 3000 rpm.  Rubber on road. Harder launch, poorer
gas mileage.  Get the idea?  Now at 3000 rpm, if you feather out the
clutch, it won't leave as hard, because you are already imparting some
of that torque to the trans and wheels. Higher stall, a better full
throttle launch. I know this is a poor comparison, but if you don't have
an idea about how they work, this might help a little.

The torque converter has essentially no designed affect on the shift
point of the trans.  It is used as a fluid coupler only.  The shift
point control is done by pump pressure,the governor and modulator
settings, and the stiffness of the springs in the valve body.  In
effect, rpm, fluid pressure and vehicle speed.  I suppose if you got a
4000 rpm stall converter, it may have an effect on shift points due to
changing rpm/vacuum signals, etc., but if you stay within 2000-2200, it
shouldn't make any difference.  The governor is not affected at all by
the torque converter.  It is only affected by output shaft speed.  The
governor will need adjustments if you go from a 2.73 to a 5.14 rear gear
though.

Hope this clears some misconceptions.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 11:43:38 -0600 (CST)
From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Subject: RE:  WinD ChilL DoeS MatteR

On Tue, 16 Sep 1997, Chris Brown Witt wrote:
> Uh, let's see, the CA's in parallel, about 2x700 maybe?
OK, sure, I'll believe, that's why I asked...
> Voltage drop... in parallel... about the exact same as one battery?
Dont't think so, by rights each battery would give 1/2 the juice, thereby
not dropping as many volts??
>
> Seems like every year we get this "wind chill" thing again.
The constant pursuit to keep oldsmobiles starting and driving past other
makes of cars on cold mornings warrants as much discussion as is
required, until one day the ultimate oldsmobile two-battery setup has
been refined to perfection...  Plus, I'm not convinced the full effects,
good and bad of this system have been fully explored: A 900CA battery
costs way more than a 550 and last 1/4 as long, so if every oldsmobiler
could use two 550's and pay less, we'd be yet another step ahead of the
competition (like their is one!)
> Wind chill affects critters, not cars.
No, for everyday drivers, a wind blowing in through the grill will render
more cars parked on the street dead than a 40 below night with no wind.
Between heat carried away and blowing ice and snow into the engine bay,
wind has a lot of effect on frequently driven cars parked outside...

>
> Your car, sitting in -30 air with a windchill of -60, will be at... -30.
Unless > it's a living thing, wind chill does not matter. Only in the slightest
in that > of course heat will be carried away faster by a moving cold air mass
than a > stationary one, but the TEMPERATURE does not fall below that of the
air, moving > or not. Air temperature does not, but blocks and battery's hold
heat for a long time, as well as blown snow tends to make moving parts a lot
stiffer due to the fact that it packs in EVERYWHERE!  It is not unheard of in
saskatchewan to see a car basically almost siezed from blown snow if it is a
wimpy car...



New question, what happens with different CA batteries hooked together?????

...............self-promo sig file Version 2.2...............
Eric Aksomitis:
Virtual Junkyard: Current count -> 5 vehicles
Oldsmobile Index: Current Count -> 8 vehicles
http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/       mailto:aksomi@cs.uregina.ca
Last update: 970912
..............................................................

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 13:08:26 -0600
From: Matthew Mayer <mmayer@interaccess.com>
Subject: Thermostats

I know this has been answered before, but....  should a 195 degree
thermostat START to open at 195 or should it be Fully open at 195??

Thanks!
- --
- ---Matt
Chicago, IL

- --------------------------------------------------------
mailto:mmayer@interaccess.com    |  VM: 800-481-1323
- --------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 11:15:13 -0700
From: Erik Nowacki <enowacki@titan.com>
Subject: Re: Ols in Europe

Roland,

I also checked out your pictures.  I have one question though, is that 72
Vista Cruiser really HOT PINK, or was there a color problem with the
scanner.  Good to see that Oldsmobiles are appreciated all over the world.
Please keep us informed of future updates to your page.

Erik Nowacki
San Diego
72 Vista Cruiser



>Roland Klinger
>  Went to your sight today and saw all those Oldsmobiles in Europe. Was
>really glad to see that nice 61 Starfire as I own one myself.
>  Keep up the good work on those Rockets
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 13:13:18 -0500
From: "Adam Boeding" <boedinga@ccsi.com>
Subject: Fw: I don't know much yet...

- ----------
> >
> > To whomever,
> >
> > When I was 14, now 22.  I inherited a 71 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop from
my
> > great grandmother.  The car needed new paint and a little body work
since
> > she was damn near blind and dinged a couple of corners of the garage.
I
> > pulled a lot of corn tassles to afford a paint job for my car.  When I
> > brought it home it had about 47,000 miles on it and over the years I've
> > owned the car I've got it up to 53,000 miles.  This car is my baby but
I
> > must admit I am not as knowledgable as most of you.  I joined this list
> > serve to hopefully educate myself as I read the messages.
> >
> > I am an Oldsmobile enthusiast and would like to know more about my car
> such
> > as value, engine I have, HP, and anything else so I can feel like I
have
> > something to compare as I read everyone else's messages.  I apologize
for
> > my message not being as technically related as the others but remember
I
> am
> > just learning the ropes right now.  Thanks....
> >
> > BTW, my car is completely stock since it was an old ladies car...
> >
> > Trying to learn,
> >
> > Adam Boeding
> >
> >

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 11:33:12 -0700
From: Erik Nowacki <enowacki@titan.com>
Subject: RE: 72 Vista Cruiser, Re: 64 Vista-Cruiser

I have wondered about that myself.  I have owned 3 72 VCs.  Whenever I have
felt a need for a VC I have bought the first one available and they have
all happened to be 72s.  I have no explanation for why the 72s are
overrepresented, maybe they were just the most solid ones built and
therefore have lasted this long..........  (boy do I sense some oposition
comming my way)

Erik Nowacki
San Diego
72 Vista Cruiser



At 02:52 PM 9/17/97 UT, you wrote:
>I've wondered myself why there are so many 72 VCs represented.  The
production
>numbers for the VCs for many of the production years show about 20,000+ each
>year. It doesn't look like 1972 was extraordinary; so it probably is
>coincidence.
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 14:50:18 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Fw: I don't know much yet...

Adam Boeding wrote:
>
> > > When I was 14, now 22.  I inherited a 71 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop from
> my
> > > great grandmother.

> > > I am an Oldsmobile enthusiast and would like to know more about my car
> > such
> > > as value, engine I have, HP, and anything else so I can feel like I
> have
> > > something to compare as I read everyone else's messages.  I apologize
> for
> > > my message not being as technically related as the others but remember
> I
> > am
> > > just learning the ropes right now.  Thanks....
> > >
>

We all try to learn.  Congrats on such a great car!  53K is nothing for
a 26 year old car.  Value is not so much what you think it's worth, but
more what other people are willing to pay.  Another huge subject in
itself.  You must provide more information, such as what size engine, 2
or 4 barrel carb, single or dual exhaust, transmission type,  Vehicle
Identification Number off title or bottom driver's side of windshield
opening (VIN), body plate info(under the hood close to the VIN) and some
other items.  If it has a small block under the "Cutlass" on the front
fender that says "SX" then you are in for a TREAT!  A lot of things.
The members on this list can then "pick apart" your car and tell you
much more about it.  If you haven't tried yet, look for the build
sheet.  This is a piece of paper in the car when it was manufactured,
usually located under the seats in the springs, or just about anywhere
in the car.  If you can find this, it has a bunch of codes on it that
can help us decipher what your car had on it when it went out the door
at the plant.  You didn't even tell us what color it was!  We need more
info.

As far as what it's worth, are you going to sell it?  If not, don't
worry about it.  But is would be worth more than a comparable Ch*velle.

Keep learning.  Buy the chassis and assembly manuals.  Worth their
weight in gold.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 14:06:51 -0500
From: david wyatt <Wyatt_David_L@LILLY.COM>
Subject: Leftovers, was Re: 72 Vista Cruiser, Re: 64 Vista-Cruiser

Hey Eric,  The reason they all seem to be '72s are because everyone else
grabbed up all the better looking ones. (ducking behind screen to avoid
bullets)

Just kidding, I think they all look good.  It's late in the day and I
want to go home.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 14:04:39 -0700
From: Kevin O'Brien <obrienk@sunynassau.edu>
Subject: Re: Twin Batteries & Cold Weather Starting

Twin batteries are common in diesel set-ups.
My 78-98 stock set up is two batteries.
Nothing special-no switches-both batteries on line all the time.
The 78-98 has two separate ground cables-one from each battery connected
directly to the block-one on the passenger side and one on the driver's
side. The positive cable runs from the passenger side battery to the
driver's side battery positive terminal-a second cable continues on to
the starter. One bolt goes through both positive cables on the driver's
side battery positive terminal. The positive cable is routed from
battery to battery across the radiator shroud with plastic loom &
plastic loom clips.

If sombody had a side terminal set up, driver side starter, driver side
battery, empty passenger side compartment, similar to 78-98 and they
wanted to add the second battery, as far as cables go, you would need a
passenger side "battery to block cable"; "passenger battery to driver
battery positive cable"; driver's side "long terminal bolt" to pass
through two cables into positive terminal on driver battery; passenger
side battery clamp; plastic loom & clips to route cable from battery to
battery.

One of the kids has a 6.9L diesel pick up-twin batteries. Ford. Has top
type terminal cables-similar setup-heavier gauge wire-the positive cable
is one contiuous cable from the driver's side battery to the passenger
side battery and on to the starter which is on the passenger side. May
be useful info for somebody with top type terminals.

I run a 110 amp alternator but have run with an 80 amp, for extended
periods, while rebuilding the 110 amp unit. No noticeable problems.

98 has a/c, rear defog, power seat, locks & windows, glow plugs. Built
in regulator. Single belt pulley on alternator.

Diesel needs two batteries to first operate glow plugs and then spin
engine. Need to crank 150 rpm cold and 250 rpm when hot.

Have been using Sears die hards-no complaints.

When purchasing any battery for any car- I always measure the battery
compartment and get a battery that is the largest one that will fit in.
At Sears, the price is the same, and if you let them select the battery
from the book they will give you the timy OEM size. Get your money's
worth.

NY area gets down to 5 deg F once in a while, 10-20 deg F often, 20 deg
F plenty.
For cold weather starting-which can be a real problem with a diesel I
have resorted to the following for the diesel when my glow plugs were on
the fritz or for other cars with weak batteries:

Since a battery has about twice the cranking power at 80 deg F than it
does at 0 deg F warm up the battery.

If you have a running car, back it up to the car that won't start and
aim the exhaust pipe under the center of the engine compartment of the
dead car-15-20 minutes will usually warm up the oil pan, battery and
engine. If it's windy and really cold a drop cloth over the front of the
dead car will help hold the exhaust heat. 1/2 hour will actually warm up
the entire block.

If you don't have a running car put a hair dryer under the hood, turn it
on and have a cup of coffee, 15-20 minutes will warm up the compartment.
You can also just aim the dryer at the battery which will release more
cranking power. The hair dryer is also excellent for drying off ignition
wires and distributor cap when damp or wet. Be careful not to start a
fire if you leave the dryer under the hood while your'e inside sucking
down coffee or whatever, use prudence when positioning the hair dryer.
I'll heat up a damp distributor cap so hot that I can't touch it and
cook the spark plugs and wires really good too.

J C Whitney used to sell battery warmers-5 watt, 120 volt, peel and
stick warmer, stick on the side of the battery and plug in when needed.
Haven't seen them in a while. Paid about $6 to $10 once.

Another good item for cold weather is a block heater (OEM on the
diesel).

As a back up to the OEM block heater, I use a "Four Seasons" P/N 71301.
This is a nice unit, 600 watts, cast aluminum, 120V, cut into the lower
radiator hose-1-1/2" size. 20 minutes heats up the engine very well. The
diesel thinks its Spring time and starts right up. I use the heater all
the time since I think it saves a lot of wear on the engine in lieu of a
cold start up.

The 71301 is a P/N for a 1-1/2" hose: there are a variety of sizes in
this P/N family for other size heater hoses. (available for 1", 1-1/4".
1-3/4" & 2" also)

Kevin O'Brien
78-98 Regency Diesel

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 13:15:02 -0600 (MDT)
From: Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Subject: [none]

I think I found a deal on a 1970  98  green & green  if I pick it up I'll
be pulling the engine, trans  but I will part with the rest of the car
I think the only body damage is to the rear pass door  and it wasnt
serious

Dustin

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 15:27:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine Swapout 76-->70 350

mike rothe,
     in all the experiance i have had in building fast cars i have never
heard anyone say that the th-400 is a better tranny.  one of the cars i build
two years ago, a 78 chevy comero, had a big block chevy motor in it.  the
motor was rated at 700 hp.  the first night running it at the track it blew
up the rear end.  the tranny had no problems holding up with the tremendous
torque and horsepower.  it also had a 5000 stall converter in it(one fast
car).  i agree with you in the fact that you have a 2000 stall converter that
will fit both a th-350 and a th-400, but if you take a 2000 stall out of a
th-350 and put it in a th-400 you will loose about 500 rpm's.  as for the
crossmember the car shouldn't be equiped with the holes to move it back.
 there is two kinds of th-400 and two kinds of th-350, a long shaft and a
short shaft.  if the car is equipped with a short shaft it would be easier to
put a short shaft back into the car.  if you put a long shaft tranny in a
short shaft car, the floor pan will have to be modified for the crossmember.
 also you will have to invest in a custom driveshaft.  i think this is all
for now.

mikey tvb@aol.com
73 cutlass w/403 and th-350

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 15:28:58 -0400
From: mike.blankenship@medaphis.com
Subject: Re: OAI Hoods

My approach to the OAI hood reproduction was a little different.  Instead of
major money committment to tool up to make hundreds, I researched to produce
enough for my own lifetime consumption + sell x amount to offset my costs.

The repro hoods that the vendors sell today are all fiberglass.  Some say they
have steel reinforcement but this reinforcement is back at the hold hinge area
only.  The underneath side of the reproductions are made to simulate the metal
skin of the underside of an original hood.  With the metal off of an original
hood what your left with is a very crude looking fiberglass hood and ram air
"box".  I found a guy who had an old (maybe original, But I doubt it) mold
that produced this type of hood and box  with a medium amount
of labor.  The cost of reproducing the metal structure under the hood was a
major money outlay.  I dont have the exact numbers with me but I would have
had to make 1000 to make out.  The next cheapest thing was to remove the skin
from an original steel hood, cut 1/2 inch from each side and fine finish
the rest.  This is a very labor intensive, pain in the a&*.  With the cost of
making the fiberglass hood and box, pulling the structure out of an original
hood bonding and finishing the hood  the cheapest I could make a hood for was
about $1,100.  This was in 1990, and the most expensive original hood around
was going for about $800.  So, there was not a real market for them at the 
time.
Between 1990 and today I have bought, sold, traded for about 12 OAI hoods and
never have really spent more than $700 for a decent hood. If you network with
your local OCA chapter and hit the cruise nights, BOP shows you can turn them
up it just takes some diligent digging.

Mike
66 442
70 442
70 442 W30
71 442 convt
71 Cutlass S

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 12:49:00 -0700
From: Brad Bowles <wolds@napanet.net>
Subject: Oil pressure

This is a weird one...
My 70 442 doesn't have a constant oil pressure. ( I understand that at
different RPM= different pressure)  Lets just say that the car is
running at a constant RPM.  Initially, the pressure will be fine, and
the car warms up.  After the car has warmed up, the pressure slowly
begins to drop.  It gets to the point where the max pressure is the same
as the idle pressure when first started.
I think the oil is thinning out.  I run 10-W30.  The oil pump is new,
and so is the sending unit.  Should I change to 20-W40?  What should I
do?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 14:06:04 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Body bolt info

Mike Rothe wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> Jon Wessel was the only reply I got for my question on body bolts.
> Thanks Jon. I took his advice and talked to the dealership.
> Painstaking.  While I probably could find used ones, I would rather go
> new.  So I went another route.  I investigated.  Here's what I found:


    < < < S N I P > > >

Has anyone checked Summit?  I think some of their suspension companies
were carrying polyurethane body mount sets.  They'd treat you better
than most dealerships would, I'm sure...
- --

             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
             Box 524               | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Sidney, Montana 59270 | http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "TRBO LVR" (Maybe???:)| '83 Turbo Regal
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 14:24:54 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re:

Dustin Cross wrote:
>
> I think I found a deal on a 1970  98  green & green  if I pick it up I'll
> be pulling the engine, trans  but I will part with the rest of the car

Hmm.  Sounds ~awfully~ familiar...


> I think the only body damage is to the rear pass door  and it wasnt
> serious

Oh.  Never mind!  :)

> Dustin

- --

             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
             Box 524               | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Sidney, Montana 59270 | http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "TRBO LVR" (Maybe???:)| '83 Turbo Regal
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 14:23:19 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Delta in Holland

archy van wely wrote:
>
> Well, it seems to me that you really know your stuff.
> That give's me the oppurtunity to ask you about my car overhere in the
> Netherlands.
> I am trying to restaurate an olds delta 88 royale town sedan from 1976.
> It has got a SMALL BLOCK 350.
> There has to be a little body work to be done and make it ready for the
> weather overhere. In the time that I am working on the car I have found a
> lot of information about it, but what I haven;t found out is how the car is
> technicaly.
> I mean did they have a lot of problems? Are there problems that are "just"
> happen with the delta 88 of that year. Is there something I have to give
> special atention. Is there something I really not should do. And stuff like
> that.

I've heard of a few that had some puzzling electrical problems, but
never dealt with them personally.  I suspect the majority of the
problems lied in the technician's ability more than anything.  The
biggest thing I didn't like about the 70's (~especially~ the mid-70's)
was the performance.  Seemed like 76 was the climax for ~poor~formance.
Several conspiracy theories exist as to why that is :)  I don't know if
Holland was subject to the same criteria as we were back then, so your
car may be way different if it was bought new there.  Those year (for
~any~ car) involved tons and tons of emission equipment on the engine
(that's the thing you'll find if you remove seventy-five miles of
vacuuum lines from the aircleaner! ;)  The carb and distributor are
tuned to operate smoothly with all of that stuff intact.  Often, if you
remove any or all of the smog garbage, you'll end up with drivability
problems that can only be resolved by changing the carb and/or modifying
the spark advance curve.

Personally, I'd say you've got two options under the hood involving
performance.  If you want a nice clean, comfortable ride, and aren't
looking for a strong race winner, than you've probably already got the
perfect car.  Leave it alone.  If you want performance, you'll be
looking at gutting most of the emission equipment (if legal) and
changing carb, intake, distributor weights, exhaust, cam, heads, etc...
depending on how extreme you'd want to go.  In stock condition, you'll
have a good running motor, so it really depends on what you want out of
the car.  The biggest ~problem~ I can point you to with that car (and
others of the same vintage) involves the miles of vacuum lines under the
hood.  The lines and fittings, etc. have a tendancy to get brittle,
crack and break, causing vacuum leaks and swarms of drivability
problems.  The cure for this depends on your desires (as outlined above)

Hope that helps out somewhat.  I'm not overly familiar with those cars,
mine are mostly pre 71 and post 80 model years.  Good luck!



             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
             Box 524               | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Sidney, Montana 59270 | http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "TRBO LVR" (Maybe???:)| '83 Turbo Regal
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 16:27:01 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Swapout 76-->70 350

Mikeytvb@aol.com wrote:
>
> mike rothe,
>      in all the experiance i have had in building fast cars i have never
> heard anyone say that the th-400 is a better tranny.

You didn't hear me say that either.  How long have you been building
fast cars?  Don't forget I've had a lot of experience too.  Hey, I'm not
arguing about this.  They're all good trannys, all I'm saying is pound
for pound, a stock TH350 cannot take the torque input like a stock
TH400.  If you build it and modify it, sure, but not in its stock form.
Period.  Sounds to me as though you want to compare a "built" TH350 to a
stock TH400.  And if you're racing, then you aren't gonna leave anything
stock anyway.  So build your TH350's for the track, and I'll take my
stock TH400 on the street.  Longevity is what I'm looking for.  Have you
ever tore up a TH400?  I've had em wear out, but never broke one.  I
can't say that with a TH350.  If I wanted to race, I'd go with the even
lighter modified Jetaway.

 one of the cars i build
> two years ago, a 78 chevy comero, had a big block chevy motor in it.  the
> motor was rated at 700 hp.  the first night running it at the track it blew
> up the rear end.

Probably a Ch*vy rear end.....

  the tranny had no problems holding up with the tremendous
> torque and horsepower.  it also had a 5000 stall converter in it(one fast
> car).  i agree with you in the fact that you have a 2000 stall converter that
> will fit both a th-350 and a th-400, but if you take a 2000 stall out of a
> th-350 and put it in a th-400 you will loose about 500 rpm's.  as for the
> crossmember the car shouldn't be equiped with the holes to move it back.

Was the TH350 stock.  If it wasn't, then I don't want to hear about it.
With enough modifications, you can bullet-proof anything.  I'm sorry
that the factory disappointed you about the frame holes.  Maybe they
shouldn't have had the holes, but they're there if the car could have
had either type of trans.  As for the crossmember movement, why not?
Both my 69 H/O and 71 442 have different holes in the frame for exactly
this purpose.  Once I put a TH400 in a 72 Cutlass origianally equipped
with a TH350, and all I had to do is move the crossmember back and put
on a new trans mount.  Done.  The short/long shaft thing is only for the
tailpiece, not for the trans mount.  You can take a TH400 longshaft,
change the output shaft and tailpiece to a short one, and now you have
the same short shaft trans you wanted.  SAME MOUNT LOCATION ON ANY
TH400.  The only difference I've seen is whether they used metric
threads for the mount bolts to the casing or SAE.

>  there is two kinds of th-400 and two kinds of th-350, a long shaft and a
> short shaft.  if the car is equipped with a short shaft it would be easier to
> put a short shaft back into the car.  if you put a long shaft tranny in a
> short shaft car, the floor pan will have to be modified for the crossmember.
>  also you will have to invest in a custom driveshaft.  i think this is all
> for now.
>
If you are racing, what's a few body mods too?  Actually, there were 3
lengths of TH400 tail shafts.

You can customize the driveshaft like this: get your TH350 shaft cut,
then install a TH400 yoke assembly and balance it.  I did this for the
72 conversion I did.  Cost me about $55.  Customizing the shaft is
relatively cheap.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 14:32:28 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: All read! I don't know much yet...

I wanted to draw attention to this post, because, IMHO this is the
perfect example of what this list is here for.  I would venture to say
that most of our members (no matter ~how~ knowledgeable they may be
right now) could very easily have posted this exact same letter in the
past.  I know this was me eight years ago.  This list wasn't here then,
so I learned a bunch on my own and in school.  This list gave tons more
info to that empty space between my ears, and I feel that I've really
gained alot from being on here.  Adam (*and everyone else in the same
situation*)  Welcome aboard, and don't feel dumb about asking "stupid"
questions --  There's no such thing.  You came here to learn and have
fun; just like the rest of us.

P.S.  Sounds like you've got an excellent ride in the works!


> > > When I was 14, now 22.  I inherited a 71 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop from
> my
> > > great grandmother.  The car needed new paint and a little body work
> since
> > > she was damn near blind and dinged a couple of corners of the garage.
> I
> > > pulled a lot of corn tassles to afford a paint job for my car.  When I
> > > brought it home it had about 47,000 miles on it and over the years I've
> > > owned the car I've got it up to 53,000 miles.  This car is my baby but
> I
> > > must admit I am not as knowledgable as most of you.  I joined this list
> > > serve to hopefully educate myself as I read the messages.
> > >
> > > I am an Oldsmobile enthusiast and would like to know more about my car
> > such
> > > as value, engine I have, HP, and anything else so I can feel like I
> have
> > > something to compare as I read everyone else's messages.  I apologize
> for
> > > my message not being as technically related as the others but remember
> I
> > am
> > > just learning the ropes right now.  Thanks....
> > >
> > > BTW, my car is completely stock since it was an old ladies car...
> > >
> > > Trying to learn,
> > >
> > > Adam Boeding
> > >
> > >

- --

             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
             Box 524               | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Sidney, Montana 59270 | http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "TRBO LVR" (Maybe???:)| '83 Turbo Regal
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 16:50:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: Tim's 4-4-2

In a message dated 97-09-17 11:18:09 EDT, you write:

<< I had always felt my car was boarder line for restoration. >>
Easy now Dave, your car is completely restorable.  I saw it at the centennial
and your 70 Olds was in good shape.  Now, if you think it needs to go to the
bone yard, I
would gladly buy your toy from you.  :)   Got your attention now, just need
lots of time and $$$$$$   so good luck

W MACHINES
72 442 W-30 parked under the bridge

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 16:50:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: Tim's 4-4-2

In a message dated 97-09-17 11:18:09 EDT, you write:

<< I had always felt my car was boarder line for restoration. >>
Easy now Dave, your car is completely restorable.  I saw it at the centennial
and your 70 Olds was in good shape.  Now, if you think it needs to go to the
bone yard, I
would gladly buy your toy from you.  :)   Got your attention now, just need
lots of time and $$$$$$   so good luck

W MACHINES
72 442 W-30 parked under the bridge

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 16:55:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: torque converter for 1972 455

In a message dated 97-09-17 11:18:33 EDT, you write:

<< one more question.  i drive this
 car every day (12,000 mi/yr), usually on the highway.  how would this
 "hurst trophy" converter affect things like everyday driving, top-end,
 top-speed?

 again, thanks >>
It wont hurt milage too bad because it is a tight convertor.  As drivability
wise, no problem on that or on top speed.  Like I said, its only a few rpm's
higher than stock, so it will work fine.  One suggestion is that you do add a
transmission cooler.  As with all stall converts, the higher stall creates
more heat, so a trans cooler becomes necessary to prevent premature failure.
Back in the hey days, they should have put the coolers on the cars in the
first place.

W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
72 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 13:56:38 -0700
From: Gary Manton <sasgmm@unx.sas.com>
Subject: Engine Parts

My 1964 Dynamic 88 Convertible is looking forward to having it's engine
finally rebuilt, but I am having trouble locating kits for the rebuild.  It
is feeling like the lonely stepchild that nobody wants.  It is starting to
develop a complex because it is not as popular as the 442 or 330's.  Almost
the same feelings of being the last one chosen in gym class.  Can somebody
help me out, before I have to take her to the therapist.

Gary
          \\|//
          (o o)
~~~~~~oOOo~(_)~oOOo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Gary M. MantonSAS Institute
Business Solutions DivisionPhoenix, AZ  85012
(602) 265-1616 ext. 230 - voice        (602) 265-8585 - fax

"In business as in life, your chances of being run over are doubled
if you stay in the middle of the road"
~~~~~~oooo~~~~~oooo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª852
********************************
