
oldsmobile-digest      Friday, September 12 1997      Volume 01 : Number 845



questions
Re: Do you own a W-455 intake? help!
Re: Convertible that got away
Re: U-joint Strap for '70 SX
Re: 70 Rallye Info Needed!!! (Resend)
RE: 70 Rallye Info Needed!!!
Re: questions
Re: MUFFLERS
Re: Window Regulators (was: Questions)
RE: questions
Re: Parts wanted
Saturday 9/13, Olds Cruise Nite (Maryland) Last Plug
Re: Window Regulators (was: Questions)
Re: Kick down switch
Fwd: '64 Dynamic 88 convertible transplant
Re: Vista Cruiser Scripts
Hello
Re: 455 Rebuild Parts
production figures
Olds Alum.Heads
Olds Engineers
Re: Rough Idle Question
unsubscribe oldsmobile-digest
[none]
Re: wanted: ram air
Re: 403 Carb on 455
Re: Kick down switch
Re: Bogging?
Re: Duals on Delta 88....
Re: 455 Rebuild Parts
Re: Kick down switch
Re: Bogging?
UNBOUNCE: production figures
Re: wanted: ram air
Re: wanted: ram air
Re: '67 Cutlass Supreme Convertible for sale/ good price
Re: Olds Engineers
Re: 455 Rebuild Parts
Dr. Olds posters
PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale 
72 98 bought cheap, have a look and give advice
Re: wanted: ram air
Re: 455 Rebuild Parts
advice on 86 Olds Frienza
Wanted
Slow night with some car humor- Non Olds 
O.C.A.  why join?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 02:45:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: questions

how about some info on reverse lockout linkage   i have a1970 cutlass that
needs one. i picked one up at a swap meet and am now trying to install it
   .also  i want my back up lights to work assumming the lights are in order
is there a backup light switch and where would it be  DOES THE CLUTCH SAFETY
SWITCH NEED TO BE CONNECTED TO MAKE THE BACK UP LIGHTS WORK/ ALSO THERE ARE 2
WIRES THAT GO TO THE CLUTCH SWITCH A PINK AND A YELLOW WIRE CAN ANY ONE TELL
ME WHAT WIRE GOES WHERE OR DOESNT IT MAKE ANY DIFFERENCE?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 04:22:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Do you own a W-455 intake? help!

In a message dated 97-09-11 04:07:21 EDT, you write:

<< mike,
 
 thanks for the info!
 
 <I cant believe yours doesn't have it in it already?...I have never seen one

 not drilled before.>
 
 The hole is there, but it has a plug in it marked "1/2".
 
 Thanks again
 
 RC
  >>

Im not sure about this but was this manifold sold over the counter
for racing applications that called for the plug to be retained??

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 03:23:36 -0700
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Convertible that got away

Hi all,

Boy am I bummed-out.  I was driving home on the freeway when a truck
carrying 2 442s and a Cuda was making it way in the opposite direction.
One was a 442 convertible (black on black) and the other was a hard
top probably 1972 (had the ram air hood).  Both 442s were in mint
condition.  Called the moving company and through several calls was 
told that these 442s were headed for Japan.  The person who bought them
got the convertible, the car I was interested in, from a school teacher
somewhere in Orange county (for those who don't know Orange county, it
is the county right next door to LA county).  Boy was I sick, one for
not being able to get any of the cars and two for the cars leaving the
country.  Don't get me wrong since people from other countrys should
have access to these wonderful cars.  What gets me is that the Japan
seemed obsessed with owning Americana.  I know this since I have an
Antiques and Collectibles business as well and the Japanese tend to
buy up Americana to resell in Japan.  Sad day for me.  Since Japan has
strick smog laws, these cars will probably become shrines.  Oh well....

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 04:53:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: U-joint Strap for '70 SX

- -----Original Message-----
> From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Sunday, September 07, 1997 11:36 PM
> Subject: Q: U-joint Strap for '70 SX
> 
The (one) original u-bolt that holds the u-joint to the rear pinion is
too
corroded to use, but I can't seem to find the proper replacements. I
got a pair yesterday, but the nuts aren't engaging fully on the bolt.
Does anyone have a manufacturer and part # for one of these U-bolts,
or good luck replacing them with a U-bolt designed for something else?
 _______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

*******************************************
You are right! I bought  Borg Warner replacement U-bolts and they are
TOO SHORT. But, you DO get barely enough thread engagement if you omit
the lockwashers. Original GM versions may still be available.....check
the dealer. BTW, I have a set of the too-short U-bolts on my 72 W30
which is currently equipped with a 70 3.42 12 Bolt "O"
rear..............so far so good, even after dozens of low 13 second
passes! I would recommend blue Loctite on the nuts though! I have a
few sets of NOS GM U-bolts but I can't remember exactly where they
are......if I find them I'll post the P/N. 

72 W30 (with too-short U-bolts)
+others
===
John Pajak                       Information Spectrum Inc.
Network Installation Team
Naval Air Station, Patuxent River, Maryland

HTTP://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

JSPajak@rocketmail.com


 

_____________________________________________________________________
Sent by RocketMail. Get your free e-mail at http://www.rocketmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 03:25:16 -0700
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: 70 Rallye Info Needed!!! (Resend)

Etzel, Bobby wrote:

The whole issue of gear ratios comparison with respect to top speed,
1/4 mile times, and 0-60 mph makes me raise the following question: 

Given the following ratios for any representative automobile can any
one come up with [TS,1/4,0-60] or even percentage of improvement or
non-improvement?

> 2.56:1 (G96)
> 2.78:1 (std)
> 3.08:1 (G90)
> 3.23:1 (G91)
> 3.42:1 (G92)
> 3.91:1 (G88)

I know I may seem to asking a vague question, however, I am trying
to ascertain the benefits of going to a higher or lower rear end
ratio as it affects [TS,1/4,0-60].

Is anyone willing to tackle this question?

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 08:08:09 -0400
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: RE: 70 Rallye Info Needed!!!

	The car was a four speed and had the >Anti-Spin  >3.42:1 that is
standard for this transmission. 

	Bobby 
	70 442 Escape Back to the... Past

	-----Original Message-----
	From:	bhorn@tnc.com [SMTP:bhorn@tnc.com]
	Sent:	Thursday, September 11, 1997 9:42 PM
	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	Subject:	RE: 70 Rallye Info Needed!!!

	Was that car that they tested in the 1/4 mile a 4 speed or an
automatic?,
	And what was the rear-end in the car they tested?

	Shayne Horn
	70 Rallye350





	>I have a report on the Rallye 350 for Car Life Road Test from
May 1970.
	>It reported a ¼ time of 15.27 at 94.33 MPH.  The 0-60 time was
7.0 sec.
	>The engine is a 350 ci 310 hp 390 torque at 3200 rpm. The base
price was
	>$3253 and the tested price was $3814. 
	>
	>Options were:
	>
	>Rear deck spoiler    $74
	>Heavy Duty radiator $21
	>Power Disk Brakes $64
	>Power Steering $105
	>Radio $70
	>Anti-Spin Axle $42 
	>(3.42:1) Standard with the 4 speed 
	>Four-Speed transmission  (M-21) $185
	>Tires were G70-14 fiberglass bias belted
	>
	>You could get the 3.91:1 (G88) with the 4-speed also.
	>
	>The 2.78:1 was standard for the automatic and could be ordered
with the
	>following:
	>
	>2.56:1 (G96)
	>2.78:1 (std)
	>3.08:1 (G90)
	>3.23:1 (G91)
	>3.42:1 (G92)
	>3.91:1 (G88)
	>
	>Now a story. I have a friend (Paul) who brought a 70 Rallye 350
in 1970.
	>I brought a 70 442 4-speed. He was always wanting to race the
442. I
	>don't know why we never did, we were young and crazy. Anyway, I
told him
	>I would take him for a ride in the 442 and if he still wanted
to race we
	>would go get his Rallye 350. We went to the on-ramp of I-20 and
let it
	>go. This car had no air, not many options and would run in the
low 14s
	>and high 13s around 102 to 104 MPH. It may not seem like a lot,
but Paul
	>never did want to race the 442.
	>
	>I like the Rally 350 and would like to have one also. Paul and
I are
	>still friends and I would love to drive over to his house and
let him
	>drive it. Maybe we could even have that race.
	>
	>
	>Bobby
	>
	>70 442 Escape Back to the....Past
	>
	>See my present 442 and the above 442 at:
	>
	>http://home1.gte.net/betzel/BE.html  
	>
	>
	>
	>
	>	-----Original Message-----
	>	From:	bhorn@tnc.com [SMTP:bhorn@tnc.com]
	>	Sent:	Thursday, September 11, 1997 1:18 AM
	>	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	>	Subject:	Re: 70 Rallye Info Needed!!!
	>
	>
	>	Were the Rallye's fast cars? How were they for
performance? Does
	>anyone have
	>	1/4 mile times or anything? I have a Rallye350 that I
just
	>bought. I t has a
	>	4 speed Hurst in it...I think that was stock. And I
would like
	>to know what
	>	kind of rear end was on it? Anyone know? 
	>
	>	Shayne Horn
	>	70 Rallye350
	>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 07:56:22 -0500
From: david wyatt <Wyatt_David_L@LILLY.COM>
Subject: Re: questions

>is there a backup light switch and where would it be  
Yes, it is on the steering column under the dash.  When you put the car
in reverse the lockout linkage not only moves the collar on the column
into the locking position, it also moves the backup light switch.  That
is why I used to see four speed cars running around with the backup
lights on all the time.  Guys would disconnect the linkage from the
tranny and just leave the collar in the lock position.  

>DOES THE CLUTCH SAFETY SWITCH NEED TO BE CONNECTED TO MAKE THE BACK UP LIGHTS WORK/ ALSO THERE ARE 2 WIRES THAT GO TO THE CLUTCH SWITCH A PINK AND A YELLOW WIRE CAN ANY ONE TELL ME WHAT WIRE GOES WHERE OR DOESNT IT MAKE ANY DIFFERENCE? 
The clutch safety switch should be seperate from the backup light
circut.  It should not matter which way you connect the wires to it.  It
is a switch in a circut not a switch going to ground.

Dave Wyatt 
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 09:03:01 -0400
From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: MUFFLERS

Yes, I'd agree. these H pipes seem to quiet things down noticeably.  I think
thats why my 2.5in system, headers, and Flowmasters are more quiet than you'd
expect.  I've also heard that the H pipe improves torque, particularly at lower
rpms.

> The H-pipe seems to have done the trick.  It really took the edge off the
>sound.  I am quite pleased with the resulting low rumble.  If my financial
>expert and neighbors start to complain, I will have to look at the Super
>Turbo mufflers, but for now I think I'll leave the Terminators in there.
>Thanks all for your assistance.

Todd Morris
71 442

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Sep 1997 20:04:55 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: Window Regulators (was: Questions)

 Chris,

My experience w/transferring power window mechanisms to crank cars is that
the regulators are indeed much different between the 2.  The rack/gear on
the regulator is often on opposite sides & built much diffewrently.  The
motors are common GM or whatever company you are using.  There are only 3 or
4 GM style motors over the years.  L & R hand motors are simply exchanges by
putting the correct gear housing on a motor.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

P.S. Joe, I want to retract that statement I made about you being correct.
I wasn't in my right mind at the time.

>
>>      I share Mike Rothe's curiosity about the ability to convert the
>>      manual regulators to power by removing the manual crank gear and
>>      adding the motor from the power units.  The illustration in the
parts
>>      book is nowhere near detailed enough to answer this question.  All I
>>      can suggest is to simply (?!) disassemble the driver's door on the
>>      sport coupe and compare the regulator to that on the holiday coupe.
>
>I am just guessing that since the motors would be the same, the
>regulators
>from either would have to attach to the motor accordingly.  I wouldn't
>assume that Olds would have made a regulator for power applications and
>one
>for crank.  I could be wrong.
>
>Chris Sparks
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 08:51:01 -0400
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: RE: questions

The back up light switch is connected to the lights from the fuse block
to the neutral start and back-up light switch to the lights. (green
wire). The switch is located in the console with AT cars or on the
steering column for cars that don't have a console. The manual
transmissions have a switch mounted on the clutch pedal bracket. The
neutral switch wire goes from the ign. starter switch to the neutral
switch to the starter solenoid. My diagram shows this as a purple wire.
The back up lights should work if the neutral switch is disconnected.
They are two separate circuits. 


Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the...Past  

	-----Original Message-----
	From:	DROLDS350@aol.com [SMTP:DROLDS350@aol.com]
	Sent:	Friday, September 12, 1997 2:45 AM
	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	Cc:	DROLDS350@aol.com
	Subject:	questions

	how about some info on reverse lockout linkage   i have a1970
cutlass that
	needs one. i picked one up at a swap meet and am now trying to
install it
	   .also  i want my back up lights to work assumming the lights
are in order
	is there a backup light switch and where would it be  DOES THE
CLUTCH SAFETY
	SWITCH NEED TO BE CONNECTED TO MAKE THE BACK UP LIGHTS WORK/
ALSO THERE ARE 2
	WIRES THAT GO TO THE CLUTCH SWITCH A PINK AND A YELLOW WIRE CAN
ANY ONE TELL
	ME WHAT WIRE GOES WHERE OR DOESNT IT MAKE ANY DIFFERENCE?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 09:36:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Parts wanted

23$ for bezel,  please reply ,   steven.  w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 97 10:05:24 -0500
From: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
Subject: Saturday 9/13, Olds Cruise Nite (Maryland) Last Plug

Saturday September 13, 1997
- ---------------------------
1st ANNUAL OLDSMOBILE CENTENNIAL CLUB CRUISE NITE. 

FREE !!

Hosted by the Oldsmobile Centennial Club, newest chapter of OCA. At The Big 
M Restaurant/Drive-In Theater, P.O. Box 111, Rt. 22, Churchville, MD 
(Between Bel Air & Aberdeen, MD. 5 miles west of I-95) All years and 
condition Oldsmobiles welcome, daily drivers to show trailer queens. Free 
goodie bag to first 70 Oldsmobile through the gate. Open to the public. 
Other vehicles welcome to cruise on in. Music, fun and games, 50/50 
drawing. Shaded picnic tables and good old fashion drive-in food available. 
Across the street is miniature golf course, batting cages, video games, 
driving range and a soft ice cream cone joint.  Definitely a family kind of 
place.
Double Feature of "Hercules" & "George of the Jungle" in the theater.


Anyone from the list coming up, down or sideways to this.  The weather is 
suppose to be great!

Info: 
Brad Nicholson @ (410) 256-0381   e-mail: brad442@erols.com Club Web Link 
at http://www.erols.com/brad442/occ
The Big M @ (410) 734-4370.   
- --------------------------------------------------------------------------
 ---  
| | | Brad Nicholson
| | | 1987 442 W-42
|/|\| 1994 Eighty Eight LSS
| | | Oldsmobile Club of America #18984
 ---  President - Oldsmobile Centennial Club (Chapter of OCA)
(W) brad.nicholson@ssa.gov   (H) brad442@erols.com 
OCC Web Page - http://www.erols/com/brad442/occ 
OFFICIAL OCA Web Page - http://www.erols/com/brad442/oca

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 07:31:16 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Window Regulators (was: Questions)

Bill,
> 
> My experience w/transferring power window mechanisms to crank cars is that
> the regulators are indeed much different between the 2.  The rack/gear on
> the regulator is often on opposite sides & built much diffewrently.  The

Maybe the Left side regulators should be swapped with the right side 
regulators. :-) I was thinking more in line with just using the power
regulator
from the HT in the SC.

> motors are common GM or whatever company you are using.  There are only 3 or
> 4 GM style motors over the years.  L & R hand motors are simply exchanges by
> putting the correct gear housing on a motor.
> 
> Bill Culp
> Decatur, Alabama
> 
> P.S. Joe, I want to retract that statement I made about you being correct.
> I wasn't in my right mind at the time.

Had me laughing! :-)

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 07:37:59 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Kick down switch

Hi all,

I have been forgetting to ask this question about my 1982 DRB:

Where is the kick down switch on this car?  At the carb? At the pedal?

I notice that when I drive this car in "D" and I am on the freeway
trying to accelerate around somebody the car really doesn't do anything
spectacular.  Sounds like it is trying to down shift and maybe it does
to some degree.  When I force a down shift to 3 from D I get more of
a response.  BTW when I run the car with the air cleaner pan lid
inverted, I can hear the engine revving.  In the first scenario I 
don't hear much of a sound, in the second scenario I hear more engine
oomph (sp?).

Let me know....

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 11:04:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: FSISSD05@aol.com
Subject: Fwd: '64 Dynamic 88 convertible transplant

- ---------------------
Forwarded message:
Subj:    '64 Dynamic 88 convertible transplant
Date:    97-09-04 12:51:09 EDT
From:    FSISSD05
To:      oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
CC:      eechaute@ssd.fsi.com

To fellow oldsmobile lovers,
     I have just recently purchased the above car (with only 60,000 miles)
and want to modernize it with the following powertrain; a '66 425 engine, an
700R4 trans, and possibly a Holley Pro-Injection system.
     My questions are;
How difficult is the swap from a 394 to a 425 engine?
Will I have to find special engine mounts?
Are there any exhaust headers that will work (with minor modifacations)?
Is it possible to use a later style power steering pump with the original
steering box?
Are there any easy swaps for front disc brakes and possibly rear disc?
And I am in need of a rear bumper for this car?
     For you purist out there don't worry.   The original powertrain will be
stored in case I later wish to go original for showing.  The car has the
original cruise control and power seats and both work (occasionally).   I
want the car to be a family summer cruiser for long trips on vacation and
visiting relatives so dependiblity and some gas ecomomy are my considerations
for the powertrain swap.
                                                        thanks for all
assistance,
                                                                 Dean
Eechaute

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 08:45:04 -0700
From: Erik Nowacki <enowacki@titan.com>
Subject: Re: Vista Cruiser Scripts

Jim,

	Are those part numbers complete?  They look a little short to me.  If you
have the complete part number, you can use www.partsvoice.com and see if a
GM dealer would happen to have some on a shelf somewhere.  Just a thought,
please disregard if you have already tried it.

Erik Nowacki
San Diego
72 Vista Cruiser


At 07:53 AM 9/12/97 +0100, you wrote:
>Bill,
>
>I waited a while for you to get settled again, but here I am again!
>It's frustrating to have been so close to these (1964?) Vista Cruiser
>scripts, seeing the picture you took...
>I have the GM part#'s for the cripts. Can you maybe call that vendor and
>check if the scripts are the correct one's?
>These are the #'s:
>          RH  "Vista"      384284
>          LH  "Vista"      384285
>          RH  "Cruiser"  384286
>          LH  "Cruiser"  384287
>Thanks in advance!
>
>BTW, I send this mail from my work and I'm only on the digest.
>Considering the timezone I'm in, by the time you read this I'll be home for
>the weekend. But you can reach me there also:
>          J.Hoekendijk@inter.nl.net
>
>Jim Hoekendijk, Apeldoorn, The Netherlands
>1964 F-85 Cutlass Vista Cruiser Custom
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 07:42:09
From: enjy@comp.com
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******************************************************************
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One thing that has to be said for E-mail over snail mail,  is that no trees 
had to be cut down to send E-mail.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 12:12:51 -0400 (EDT)
From: Markintime@aol.com
Subject: Re: 455 Rebuild Parts

Hey Coupe,
All of the parts you mention in your E-mail can be purchased through regular
parts houses.  While the stuff may not be on the shelf it can be ordered and 
normally arrives within a couple of days.
I bought alot of my stuff from Mondello, but I bought TRW forged pistons from
a local parts house and all of the bearings from another local parts house.
Mail order houses like Summit racing are also a good resource, I bought a 
Moroso deep sump pan for my 455 from them.  While their catalog is mostly
Chevy, they've got the Old's stuff, they just have to look it up.

Good Luck,
Mark Berube
Loganville, GA.
67' 442

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 18:50:56 +0200
From: Jim Hoekendijk <J.Hoekendijk@inter.NL.net>
Subject: production figures

Recently I bought the "Illustrated Oldsmobile Buyer's Guide", which has a
Vista Cruiser chapter in which production figures are given.
I own a '64 VC Custom, but only production figures for Standard versions are
given (1,305).
Does anybody know the production figures for the '64 VC Custom (8-passenger)?

Jim Hoekendijk, Apeldoorn, The Netherlands
J.Hoekendijk@inter.nl.net
1964 F-85 Cutlass Vista Cruiser Custom
Jim Hoekendijk
Badhuisweg 60
7314 EE  Apeldoorn
Tel. (055) 522 63 59
Kantoor (055) 580 14 96
Mobiel 0654 605 177
E-mail J.Hoekendijk@inter.NL.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Sep 1997 16:28:05 -0500
From: "Forrest Johnson" <johnson@edisongroup.com>
Subject: Olds Alum.Heads

Follows is the info I have gathered from the Edelbrock BBS (
http://www.edelbrock.com/ )
Regarding the Aluminum Heads. 
Posted on Edelbrock's  BBS

Fri Feb 21 10:27:20 PST 1997

T.Gabel, T., thanks for your nice comments. Here are the current
nomenclature per Edelbrock's #6052 Oldsmobile Aluminum Heads: similar to
factory 455 "C" castings; no heat crossover; 2.072 intakes and 1.680
exhaust valves (spread approximately .050); updated intakes and exhaust
ports; adequate material for race porting; 75cc combustion chamber;
relocate spark plug closer to exhaust valve; raise exhaust port floor to
remove "dead" area; maintain a minimum of 1.800 installed spring height
and possible change from shaft to stud rocker valve train. Oldsmobile
350's like 70 cc chambers, 455's like 80cc: 75cc splits the difference.
Thanks, Ralph.

Wed Jul 23 13:58:32 PDT 1997

Ken Snyder, Hi Ken. We are going to make a Performer RPM style
Oldsmobile head. We are in the developing stages, it probably won't
happen until the spring or summer of 1998 for production. Joe Mondello,
Mr. Oldsmobile, or Dr. Oldsmobile is communicating with us on this. The
heads will have the 455 large intake port, and yes, they will fit t he
350 block, but it's going to be a combustion chamber volume question and
etc. You can direct your inquiries directly to me. Thank you for your
inquiry. We're glad to be of help...Smitty.


A later mail describes the heads as 77cc.  I am still waiting for
updated specs and an approximate price.

Forrest  Johnson
Johnson@edisongroup.com
Fjohnson@intervoice.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 12:22:11 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: Olds Engineers

Has anyone ever tried to contact and of the Oldsmobile V8 Mechanical 
Engineers to learn even more about the Olds V8?  It would be 
interesting to learn more about the engines from the design stand 
point.

I'm sure lots of questions could be asked about head design, block and 
cranks, what sort of testing, etc.

If anyone knows I am just curious.

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme 350

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 07:06:02 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Rough Idle Question

>I have a rough idle in my '78 Delta 88 (350/TH350) and it hesitates
[snip]
>PS..Today while at Pick-your-part I found a late 60's-early 70's Cutlass
>(the front bumper had round amber lights) and it had G heads..  I
>undesratnd G heads indicate a 400 motor right?

No, that would be a 400 if there was a "G" on the block; the '71 455's had
the "G" heads, and the '72's had the "Ga" heads (round turn-signals were
also from the '71-'72's). I'd say that swapping that motor into your Delta
would solve your "driveability" problems... :)
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 10:47:40 -0700
From: "John E. Cameron" <cameronj@u.washington.edu>
Subject: unsubscribe oldsmobile-digest

 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 97 09:10:12 CST
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Subject: [none]

who oldsmobile

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 15:11:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: Re: wanted: ram air

thanks al, but that is a LITTLE to much $$$. they can keep it.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 15:19:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: 403 Carb on 455

why not go for an aftermarket carb?  many carbs, such as a carter or an
edelbrock, have an electric choke which means there is only one wire to hook
up.  it won't really matter if it's not a quadrajet, it's not like you have a
number matching car.  you changed the intake manifold now you can change the
carb.

mikey tvb@aol.com
73 cutlass w/403
70 442 w/455

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 14:21:44 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: Kick down switch

What size trainy you got? 200R4, 350? Kick down usally is going from 
the carb to the trainy, connecting just below the accelerator cable, 
well, this is from my experience anyway. Does it have overdrive? My 
dads 84 olds 88 Custom Cruiser station wagon had an overdrive, when 
it started to go, it had about the same symptoms...

> Hi all,
> 
> I have been forgetting to ask this question about my 1982 DRB:
> 
> Where is the kick down switch on this car?  At the carb? At the pedal?
> 
> I notice that when I drive this car in "D" and I am on the freeway
> trying to accelerate around somebody the car really doesn't do anything
> spectacular.  Sounds like it is trying to down shift and maybe it does
> to some degree.  When I force a down shift to 3 from D I get more of
> a response.  BTW when I run the car with the air cleaner pan lid
> inverted, I can hear the engine revving.  In the first scenario I 
> don't hear much of a sound, in the second scenario I hear more engine
> oomph (sp?).
> 
> Let me know....
> 
> Chris Sparks
> 
- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Consumer's Guide", Sears, Roebuck and Co. (1897)

If you don't find it in the Index, look very carefully through the entire catalogue. 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 15:21:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: Bogging?

> When I drive to work in the morning and my DRB is basically cold,
> when I accelerated in "D" the car sort of bogs down as if it has no
> power.  If I drive the car, like I normally do, like a stick and shift
> from 1 to 2 to 3 myself I don't get that bog.  Any clues?

this bogging may be due to lack of vaccum.  the modulator valve needs a good
vaccum suppily.  the modulator is what shifts the car from 3rd gear to first
when you stop.  what does everyone else think about this?
please respond with results!


mikey tvb@aol.com
high school student

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 20:28:12 GMT
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Duals on Delta 88....

>I'd like to add dual exhausts to my '78 Delta 88, which I know is
>possible...I just don't know how.  Would I have to install a new
>cross-member, or could I notch the existing one?  I took a close look at

You could do either. It's easier to install one from an older B/C body (make
& model is irrelevant); notching the existing one would be easy if you have
a welder, I suppose, but you'd have to be careful to not remove its
structural integrity; after all, it's basically a squashed tube, so you
can't just cut a chunk out and still have it hold up the transmission. For
the record, my crossmember came from some unknown application, but the width
was within an inch of the existing one. I only had to drill three new holes,
and everything bolted up. In fact, the later-style single-bolt TH400 rear
mount fit right into one of the existing slots for the earlier-style 2-bolt
tranny mount, so I didn't even have to drill a hole in the crossmember for
that. Very simple to do; just make sure to measure the position of the
transmission before you remove the old crossmember, and position the new
crossmember to get it back into that position, or as close as possible
(don't sweat it if the tranny is 1/4" up or down from original; you don't
want it 2" out of location, though!).

>the existing one, and the floorboards seem to be sculpted to accomodate
>the single pipe.  That pretty much rules out a dual-hump
>cross-member...(which rules out *true* duals)

It's easy enough to "resculpt" the floorboards with a 2lb sledge. If you're
really into neatness, you could just try jacking up the car by the
floorboard at the point you need clearance. You don't need a lot of space,
and you can't tell from the inside of the car at all. Once the crossmember
is installed, you can't tell anything has been "clearanced".

>Instead of running true duals, could I get the same type of deep-throat
>sound out of false duals, such as splitting the single pipe into dual
>behind the catalytic?  I want the car fairly loud...that's whats
>prompting me to do this little project.  If I were to split the pipe
>after the catalytic (or x-mem.) and run 2.5 or 3" duals back (with twin
>Flowmaster's) would I get a nice, low sound from the Rocket 350?

You can get loud from a single exhaust; I had a pretty loud exhaust from my
single for the last two years. Got annoying, especially on long drives. Now
I've got true duals, and I prefer the quiet of that (with a little rumble
from the cam) to the loud of the single. Dual 3" pipes would be tight over
the axle.

>What kind of cash would I be looking at to do this?  Yes, I know
>Flowmasters are pricey, but I want a good (and free-flowing) muffler. 
>Including the stainless steel pipe, what would it be worth?

Well, I paid about $300 for everything from the manifolds to the bumper, but
with regular steel and stock-style mufflers. I'd imagine that performance
mufflers might add $50-$100, and stainless would at least double that
figure, so look at maybe $700-$800.

>Any advice would be appreciated!  It doesn't seem right to have a 350
>Rocket breathing through a 2" single exhaust.

No, it isn't. And it's about time you did something about it! ;)
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 20:33:19 GMT
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: 455 Rebuild Parts

>PAW is probably the best and only supplier you should consider.I've had good
>luck with them & I've heard great things froms co-horts about them.
>
>Olds8873
>W L Taylor 
>1973 Olds Delta 88 Convt.
>
>- --PART.BOUNDARY.0.6458.emout06.mail.aol.com.874026078
>Content-ID: <0_6458_874026080@emout06.mail.aol.com.12563>
>Content-type: application/octet-stream;
>	name="73OLDS~9.TIF"
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64
>
>SUkqAAgAAAAOAP4ABAABAAAAAAAAAAABAwABAAAAVAEAAAEBAwABAAAA4gEAAAIBAwADAAAA
>ngIAAAMBAwABAAAAAQAAAAYBAwABAAAAAgAAABEBBAA9AAAAtgAAABUBAwABAAAAAwAAABYB
[ S N I P !!! AND I MEAN SNIP!!! ]

Wow, is AOL allowing you to put picutures in your .sig files? And here I
thought that the list was just *very* active today (i.e. two digests, each
with 13+ parts!).

OK, drop that 73OLDS~9.TIF file from any mail you send; it, uh, doesn't come
across too good...
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 13:43:33 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Kick down switch

Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician wrote:
> 
> What size trainy you got? 200R4, 350? Kick down usally is going from

Gosh I don't know.

> the carb to the trainy, connecting just below the accelerator cable,
> well, this is from my experience anyway. Does it have overdrive? My
> dads 84 olds 88 Custom Cruiser station wagon had an overdrive, when
> it started to go, it had about the same symptoms...

Is this the solenoid I keep reading about?

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 16:19:29 -0500
From: Shang <shoover@flash.net>
Subject: Re: Bogging?

Mikeytvb@aol.com wrote:
> 
> > When I drive to work in the morning and my DRB is basically cold,
> > when I accelerated in "D" the car sort of bogs down as if it has no
> > power.  If I drive the car, like I normally do, like a stick and shift
> > from 1 to 2 to 3 myself I don't get that bog.  Any clues?
> 
> this bogging may be due to lack of vaccum.  the modulator valve needs a good
> vaccum suppily.  the modulator is what shifts the car from 3rd gear to first
> when you stop.  what does everyone else think about this?
> please respond with results!
> 
> mikey tvb@aol.com
> high school student



I would tend to agree except that it is probably from too much vacuum.
The modulator needs to be adjusted out so that the transmission shifts
later. The bog you are getting is the result of the trans shifting to
quickly. If you modulator has a straight port (as opposed to a 90 degree
fitting) you can adjust it with a small flat head. Try turning it in
about 2 turns.


Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 18:44:33 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: production figures

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date:	Fri, 12 Sep 1997 18:50:56 +0200
From:	Jim Hoekendijk <J.Hoekendijk@inter.NL.net>
Subject: production figures

Recently I bought the "Illustrated Oldsmobile Buyer's Guide", which has a
Vista Cruiser chapter in which production figures are given.
I own a '64 VC Custom, but only production figures for Standard versions are
given (1,305).
Does anybody know the production figures for the '64 VC Custom (8-passenger)?

Jim Hoekendijk, Apeldoorn, The Netherlands
J.Hoekendijk@inter.nl.net
1964 F-85 Cutlass Vista Cruiser Custom
Jim Hoekendijk
Badhuisweg 60
7314 EE  Apeldoorn
Tel. (055) 522 63 59
Kantoor (055) 580 14 96
Mobiel 0654 605 177
E-mail J.Hoekendijk@inter.NL.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 17:39:23 -0400
From: Al Barlow <iamoz@ime.net>
Subject: Re: wanted: ram air

At 03:11 PM 9/12/97 -0400, you wrote:
>thanks al, but that is a LITTLE to much $$$. they can keep it.
>
>I agree. I just talked to a person in Nebraska who is trying to help me
find a reasonably priced ram air hood who found one that the person wanted
$2500 for. These people must be crazy. I'll keep your E-Mail address in
case I find more than one priced reasonably.

Al Barlow

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 97 15:42:29 PDT
From: "chris smetana" <chris@abcs.com>
Subject: Re: wanted: ram air

There's a guy in Westchester, IL (outside Chicago) by the name of Bob Cline who runs Desert Dog Auto Parts.  I bought my 69 W-31 from him along with parts for various cars, very satisfied with him.  He was at Lansing and had a 71/72 ram air hood for sale that was taken off a car early in its life if I remember correctly, had beautiful blue paint.  He was asking $1000.  His # is 708-409-1040 or email at ddogap@aol.com
Let him know I sent ya.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31
and others

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 17:46:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: BMAN6771@aol.com
Subject: Re: '67 Cutlass Supreme Convertible for sale/ good price

where is chris located?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 18:55:36 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Olds Engineers

On Fri, 12 Sep 1997, Thomas Martin wrote:
> Has anyone ever tried to contact and of the Oldsmobile V8 Mechanical 
> Engineers to learn even more about the Olds V8?  It would be 
> interesting to learn more about the engines from the design stand 
> point.

I've often wondered about this myself. I'm sure some of those folks must 
still be around, and I would bet a few of them are on the net. It sure 
would be fascinating to get their experiences on here. I seem to recall a 
while back Chris Witt mentioned he had encountered one of these fellows 
somewhere and that there was a possibility of something forthcoming from 
him, but nothing ever developed.

BTW, if anyone encounters Chris, tell him to empty his mailbox; I've been 
carrying his bounces for a while now...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 19:00:56 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: 455 Rebuild Parts

On Fri, 12 Sep 1997, Robert Barry wrote:
> Wow, is AOL allowing you to put picutures in your .sig files? And here I
> thought that the list was just *very* active today (i.e. two digests, each
> with 13+ parts!).
> 
> OK, drop that 73OLDS~9.TIF file from any mail you send; it, uh, doesn't come
> across too good...

Forget it, Dr. Bob... the person is no longer here. I removed him after 
those not-so-little nuggets filled my mailbox this morning...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 97 15:57:48 PDT
From: "chris smetana" <chris@abcs.com>
Subject: Dr. Olds posters

Hi All,
   Well, the other day I received my Dr Olds posters that I ordered while in Lansing from the RE Olds museum.  These are the black and white reprints of the four posters from '69.  2 W-31's (SCHWING), 4-4-2 W-30 and a 'family' portrait.  Look real nice, except the corners got a little crunched during shipping (man I hate that as it's happened to me before when I've ordered posters)  They measure about 15" x 22" each and cost approx $48 including shipping (they were out of the posters at the musuem at the time)  Highly recommended if you have a 4-4-2 W-30 or especially a W-31 from 1969, or if you just want W-machine memorabilia.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 18:18:25 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale 

                                        C&M Classic Parts

Hours:  Mon-Fri  6:00 pm - 10:00 pm, Sat 9:00 am - 6:00 pm
As of September 20, we are accepting all major Credit Cards. VISA, Master
Card, American Express, and Discover cards.
New Parts: ____________________________________________________________________ 
66 442 Side Mount Tach (maroon, works, nice)  $225.00
66 F-85 Post Coupe Doors (very good cond)  $200.00 pr
66 F-85/Cutlass grille  (nice)  $50.00
66 F-85 Trunk Lid  (nice)  $125.00
66 330 cu in 2 bbl engine (complete w/trans, 17,000 original miles)  $350.00  
66-67 Clutch Z-Bar  $50.00
66-67 Rear Side window lower U-seals (new, Metro Moulded)  $17.00 pr
67 Cutlass Fender Emblems (nice)  $10.00 ea
67 Plain Cutlass Fender Rockets (nice)  $5.00 ea
67 Rear Defrost setup (w/switch)  $50.00
68-72 Rear Defrost  (no switch)  $30.00
68-69 Rallye Pac. tach and gauges (with tach harness)  $325.00
69 Cruise Control Switch and Bezel  $25.00
69 Radiator Core Support 3 Row (mint, no rust holes)  $150.00
15x7 SSIII's (snap on caps no rings) 4  $125.00
70 Auto Console and shifter (mint, replated top plate & wood grain)  $275.00
70 OAI Hood (nice) 2 very tiny stress cracks at scoop  $950.00
70-75 Sport Wheel (black with blue center and collar)  $125.00
70-71 Halo Vinyl Top Molding sets no "L " moldings (mint) $55.00 set
70-72 455 Std. Iron intake manifold (auto cars)  $75.00
70-72 Std. Console Shift Lens  (repro)  $23.00 ea
70 Sport Mirrors (nice sets)  $155.00 set
70 Cutlass Supreme Hood (excellent)  $100.00
70 442/SX/Rally 350 Rear Cutout Bumper (CORE)  $110.00
70-72 RH Door (Coupe/Conv)  $125.00
69-72 Bucket Seats (need recovering)  $40.00 pr
69-72 Column Shift Steering Column (plain)  $45.00
64-72 Power Window Motors  (excellent cond) $50.00 ea
71 C/S Door Panels (white w/pwr windows)  $40.00 pr
71-72 W-455 Aluminum intake ((2) 1/8th in repaired cracks) $675.00
71 350 4 bbl Engine (complete, carb to pan, runs excellent) $250.00
68-72 Power Steering setup  (complete)  $50.00
71-72 8-Track Player (doesn't work)   $85.00
71 Cutlass/442 Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea
Bumper Bracket sets ALL years  $25.00 pr
70-72 455 Engine Mounts (NEW)  $40.00 pr
68-72 350 Engine Mounts (NEW)  $38.00 pr
TH350 Shift Cable Bracket  $15.00

New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts for 1964-1972 Cutlass/442
_______________________________________________     
66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) $34.50 ea                           
68-75 SSII/III Center Caps (N.O.S.) $34.50 ea                       
69 Cutlass RH Grilles (N.O.S.) $85.00 ea                             
70 Cutlass Supreme Grilles (N.O.S.)  $110.00 pr
70-72 LH Coupe/Conv Door Skin (N.O.S.)  $200.00
70-72 Cutlass/442 LH Fenders (N.O.S.) $450.00 ea               
71-72 Turn Signal Lens (N.O.S.)  $90.00 pr                          
71-72 Stone Shields (N.O.S.) $38.00 ea                              
71-72 Headlight Housings (plastic) (N.O.S.) $80.00 pr          
71-72 Cutlass Rear Bumpers (N.O.S.) $380.00 ea               
71-75  Cutlass Fender Emblems (N.O.S.)  $19.50 ea            
72 Cutlass Supreme & Hurst/Olds Grilles (N.O.S.)  $125.00 pr

Used Parts
_______________________________________________      
64 Cutlass/442                       
RH Headlight Bezel  $15.00                                                  
Front Bumper Core  $40.00                                                   
LH/RH Taillight Lens  $8.00 ea                                            
F-85 Fender Emblem (nice)  $5.00                                      
V-8 Emblem  $5.00                                                             

65 Cutlass/442
65 Cutlass/442 Wheelwell Moldings  $20.00 ea
65 Hood Molding (fair cond)  $10.00

66 Cutlass/442
66 Cutlass/442 Hood Molding  (good cond)  $30.00
66-67 AM Radios  (nice)  $25.00 ea
66-67 RH Hardtop Doors (very nice)  $130.00 ea
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
66 Cutlass/442 Full Turbine Hubcaps (very, very nice)  $230.00 set
Cutlass/442 Headlight Bezels  $40.00 pr

LH C/S Rear side molding  $10.00                                              
Exterior A-Pillar Chrome Moldings  $15.00 pr                        
F-85/Cutlass Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea                                  

67 Cutlass/442
66-67 AM Radios  (nice)  $25.00 ea
66-67 RH Hardtop Doors (very nice)  $130.00 ea
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
67 F-85 Rear Bumper (very good condition)  $75.00
67 442 Grille Bar  (nice)  $40.00
67 442 Hood (some rust)  $85.00
67 Front Bumper (straight, core)  $65.00
67 Cutlass Headlight Bezels (nice)  $55.00 pr
67 442 Trunk Lids (clean)  $130.00 ea
67 442 Pie Tin Decal  $5.00
67 442 Chrome Trunk Panel (excellent)  $125.00
67 442 Tail Light Bezels (some pitting)  $50.00 pr
67 RH Fender (small hole, straight)  $200.00

68 Cutlass/442
68 Hood Hinges  $50.00 pr 
68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
68-69 LH Quarter Panel  4 door (mint)  $225.00
68-69 RH Quarter Panel  4 door (mint)  $225.00
68/69 SSII 14x6 Wheels (4) mint  $160.00 set
68-69 Top Fender Moldings (near windshield, mint)  $40.00 pr
68-72 Cutlass S LH Rear Side Glass (clear)  $35.00              
Rear Window Molding Sets  $85.00 set                               
68 Cutlass/442 Std Horn Button (black, nice)  $7.00                     
68 Air Cleaner Stove Pipe (pipe only)  $10.00                              
68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $20.00 ea                                            
68-72 Cowl mouldings  $25.00 ea                                
68-72 B-Pillar Molding Set (black, mint) $25.00 pr 

69 Cutlass/442
69 Lower Dash (radio area)  (nice)  $45.00
69 C/S Side Moldings  $20.00 ea
68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
68-69 LH Quarter Panel 4 door (mint)  $225.00
68-69 RH Quarter Panel 4 door (mint)  $225.00
68/69 SSII 14x6 Wheels (4) mint  $160.00 set
68-69 Top Fender Moldings (near windshield, mint)  $40.00 pr
69 Cutlass/442 Doors (mint pair)  $300.00 pr / $160.00 ea
Hood Hinges  $50.00 pr                                                       
Hood Louver Chrome  $35.00 pr                                          
Hood Louver Moldiings  $35.00 pr                                        
Windshield Molding Sets  $65.00 set                                 
Rear Window Molding Sets  $85.00 set                                
69-72 Floor Shift Steering Column (very good)  $100.00
69 Cutlass/442 Front Bumper (good cond) $100.00
69 LH Top Fender Moldings (excellent) $35.00
69 LH Fender (tiny rust hole)  $250.00
69 RH Fender (small nickel sized hole)  $250.00
69 Rear Bumper (V05 rub strip) one small ding  $135.00
69 Front and Rear 4 Doors  (small dings, no rust) $75.00 ea
69 4 Door Panels (Gold, cloth, nice)  $40.00 ea

70 Cutlass/442
70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switch Bezels  $5.00 ea             
70 RH Sport Mirror Shell  $40.00
70 F-85 Horn Button (cheap style wheel, excellent)  $10.00
70 Oldsmobile Options Folder  $5.00                                    
69-70 C/S Front Hood Rocket (nice)  $12.00                                
"S" Hood Chrome Vents  $35.00 pr                                        
"S" Hood Vent Moldings  $35.00 pr                                        
"S" Pillared Coupe Door Panels (good cond)  $40.00 pr         
Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $90.00                                  
Black A/C Dash Pads  $100.00 ea                  
Blue Auto Shift Console  $125.00 (w/shifter)                  
70-71 Glove Box Doors  $15.00 ea
70-72 RH Fender (needs patch panel)   $145.00                               
70 Cutlass 'S' Tail Light Lens   $10.00 ea
70-72 Cutlass S Vinyl Top rear moldings (few pits)  $8.00 pr
70 Cutlass Supreme Flat Hood   $125.00

71 Cutlass/442
71 Cutlass Full Wheel Covers  $30.00 set
71-72 Sport Mirrors (excellent cond)  $100.00 pr 
71-72 Cutlass S/442 Hood Louvers (nice)  $35.00 pr                     
71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00
71 Front Rocket Emblem (nice)  $5.00
71 Full Wheel Covers  $30.00 set

72 Cutlass/442
71-72 10 Bolt 2.56:1 (open rear)  $75.00
71-72 Sport Mirrors (excellent cond)  $100.00 pr 
72 Cutlass/442 Owners Manual  $7.00                                  
72 Cutlass Supreme Side Moldings (excellent)  $110.00 set  
71-72 Cutlass S/442 Hood Louvers (nice)  $35.00 pr                     
71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00
            
We have a ' 71 Supreme Coupe to part out. Rough body. Good drive train. No
disc brakes. Has A/C, good dash pad, white rear seat (good), P/S, glass,
lots of small stuff.

Jim Chermack
OCA #24275
C&M Classic Parts
Virginia  Beach, VA
(757) 474-0869

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 16:55:43 -0600 (CST)
From: Eric Aksomitis <aksomi@cs.uregina.ca>
Subject: 72 98 bought cheap, have a look and give advice

Well, I got me a nice 72 98 4dr, $460 Canadian.  4 core rad, good shape 
all around, and finally a boat worth fixing.  One thing though, the 
steering column is super loose near the transmission shifter.  I know 
this is bad, but how bad?

The car is contained in my knew, more unique offering at:
http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/scenicsk.html

which is a scenic tour of saskatchewan.

One other question:  How's this car shape up to my '75 98,
what's the same/different,a nd what's different that still fits?


...............self-promo sig file Version 2.2...............
Eric Aksomitis:
Virtual Junkyard: Current count -> 5 vehicles
Oldsmobile Index: Current Count -> 8 vehicles
http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/       mailto:aksomi@cs.uregina.ca
Last update: 970504
..............................................................

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 17:58:21 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: wanted: ram air

$1600.00 seems a bit steep, have you looked at Car Craft or Hot Rod 
magazines? Tword the back, they have alot of adds for Hoods, Hood 
Scoops, ect, maybe this could be an alternative.


> Date sent:      Thu, 11 Sep 1997 20:21:35 -0400
> To:             oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> From:           Al Barlow <iamoz@ime.net>
> Subject:        Re: wanted: ram air
> Send reply to:  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

> At 11:05 PM 9/9/97 -0400, you wrote:
> > hi guys im looking for a 71-72 original ram air hood
> >
> Try this if you are really desparate. They want $1600 for the hood. I have
> been looking for an original 71/72 OAI hood for quite some time but am not
> willing to spend that kind of money. Their E-Mail is: IkanAuto@aol.com and
> their phone is: 253-475-2624. I think their located in Washington state.
> Good Luck.
> 
> Al Barlow
> 1971 Olds 442 Convertible
> 1972 Olds Cutlass Supreme Convertible (parts car)
> Thomaston, Maine
> 
> 
> 
- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Consumer's Guide", Sears, Roebuck and Co. (1897)

If you don't find it in the Index, look very carefully through the entire catalogue. 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 18:02:09 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: 455 Rebuild Parts

Kanter Automotive sells a H.P. Kit for olds/pont/buick 455 rebuilds, 
might want to check them out, there reasonably priced, and there on 
the Web, cant remember the URL off hand, but I imagine if you do a 
search on Kanter Automotive, it would pop up, there the ONLY people I 
could find who still had a 1970 Buick high volume oil pump, not even 
Summit or other 3rd party vendors had it.



> Date sent:      Thu, 11 Sep 1997 20:20:11 -0400 (EDT)
> From:           CarrDuff@aol.com
> To:             oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:        Re: 455 Rebuild Parts
> Send reply to:  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

> In a message dated 97-09-11 16:27:44 EDT, you write:
> 
> << Subj:     455 Rebuild Parts
>  
>  Am rebuilding a '70 455 to install into my '68 442.  Any recomendations as
> to
>  parts suppliers for the needed hard parts--pistons, bearings, gasket sets
>  etc.?  I realize that Brothers/YO/Fusick carry this stuff,  but at
> "boutique"
>  prices. Same Mondello.
>  
>  Any engine builders out there who can point me in the right direction?
>  
>  Coupe King
>  San Pedro, CA
>   >>
> 
> 
>   I have just rebuilt the 455 for my 71 442 W30 Conv..  I also checked out
> Mondello, whose prices were just out of my budget.  I ended up getting all my
> parts @ Performance Parts Warehouse (PAW) (818)998-6000. They are located in
> Chatsworth, California.
> 
>   They do sell engine Kits, but I ordered several performance parts, Crower
> cam, 70 spec. pistons, double roller timming chain parts and a HV oil pump.
>  My total bill was around $ 550.00.  This was probably the best price I got
> when shopping. All other parts I had already purchased locally.  If you order
> make sure they send you a catalog which is about 800 pages thick.
> 
> Good Luck,
> 
> Steve Dietrich
>   S/E PA
>      71 442 W30 Conv.
> 
> 
- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Consumer's Guide", Sears, Roebuck and Co. (1897)

If you don't find it in the Index, look very carefully through the entire catalogue. 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 19:38:04 -0400
From: uknowme@mail.botanybay.net (Tim Grantmyer)
Subject: advice on 86 Olds Frienza

Hello all
I'm looking at buying a second car an 86 Olds Frienza its a four banger
and 4 door i think its a 2.0 litre. The doors and driver (back is broke)
seat are rough but thats about it. anything i should be wary of the guy
only wants $450 it needs 4 tires too.
Thanks
Tim
81 Cutlass Supreme (where's those fords)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 20:47:33 -0400 (EDT)
From: HEMIOLDS@aol.com
Subject: Wanted

Mallory Rev-pol Distributor for 400, 425, or 455 Olds.
60's vintage M&H Racemaster Slicks.  7'' wide on 15'' rim.

Thank You,
Gene

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 20:48:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin Hoopingarner <khooping@bright.net>
Subject: Slow night with some car humor- Non Olds 

Though everyone might like a little humor. 

Enjoy!!


SUBJ: Comprehending Computer Scientists -- Take Two

Four men rode in a car: a mechanical engineer, an electrical
engineer, a chemical engineer, and a computer engineer.

The car stalled out.

The mechanical engineer said, "It must be the pistons; let's repair
them and be on our way."

The electrical engineer said, "It has to be the spark plugs; we'll
replace them and be ready to roll in no time at all."

The chemical engineer said. "No, it's got to be bad gas; we'll flush
the system and be on our way."

They turned to the computer engineer. "What do you think we should
do?" they asked.

The computer engineer shrugged and said, "Let's get out of the car,
close the doors, then get back in and try restarting it."



Kevin Hoopingarner
'70 Olds 442 W-30
Findlay OH.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 21:43:49 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: O.C.A.  why join?

I was just curious, why should one join the O.C.A.?  I been thinking 
about joining for some time and would like to know more.  When I bought 
my car, it came with some back issues of Journey With Olds.  Nice 
monthly "newsletter" plus, free ads. (I have a OCA brochure already)

I'm sure I'll be getting some answers on this one, since I've noticed 
many of you on the list are members.

Thanks for any feedback.

RC (God I love Oldsmobiles!) Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #845
********************************

