
oldsmobile-digest      Thursday, August 21 1997      Volume 01 : Number 812



starter porblems
RE: build sheet
Re: starter porblems
Re: starter porblems
Re: Painting my car, need some help
W35 Rear Spoiler
Re: Repo OAI hoods...
Re: W35 Rear Spoiler
Re: Olds extravaganza - Media
Re: Dual Snorkel Air Cleaner
Re: starter porblems
Re: Deltas, old digests and questions-longish
Re: starter porblems
Re: starter porblems
Re: Left to bring up the rear.....
Re: Disappointed with Members
[none]
Re: Convertible Top for '66 Cutlass
Re: New Member - 67 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
Re: UNBOUNCE: VIN Info
Re: Olds extravaganza - Media
Re: New Member - 67 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
Re: starter porblems
Re: starter porblems
engines
Re: starter porblems
Re: engines
Re: Greetings from LANSING !
Lansing pictures
GUAGES
LOST!!
std 455 operating temp
Re: starter porblems
Re: Build Sheets
Re: Left to bring up the rear.....
Re: HEI
Re: Thanks for tire info
Re: 
Re: Convertible Top for '66 Cutlass
Re: New Member - 67 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
RE: Olds extravaganza - Media
RE: Painting Experiences
RE: starter problems
RE: Thanks for tire info
Re: Cam recommendation
Re: Dual Snorkel Air Cleaner
RE: Lansing pictures
Re: Lansing pictures
Re: Sikkens paint
Re: Guage question
Rear end
Re: std 455 operating temp
Re: LOST!!
Re: Guage question
Re: GUAGES
Re: Guage question
(Event): All-Oldsmobile Funshow

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 22:08:48 -0400
From: jim helle <helle@theonramp.net>
Subject: starter porblems

Got a 72 cutlass with a 350. After I drive it for 1/2 hour or so and
shut it down and try to start up again it acts like a dead battery.
Leave it sit for 3/4 of a hour and the motor spins great. The guy I
bought the car from told me he had this same problem. He solve it by
putting on a flex fan. (he had already put on a new starter). I didn't
like the sound of the flex fan, so I put a new clutch on it a put the
original fan back on. Is there a way of keeping the starter cool while
the engine is running? I know someone has had the same problem, How did
you solve it?

Thanks
Jim Helle

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 20:05:39 -0400
From: taxlady@sbccom.com (Sieglinde Kuzava)
Subject: RE: build sheet

TIA to everyone who's been posting about build sheets lately...sometime in
the next couple of months I will be replacing the interior in my 78 Cutlass
Supreme.  Since I now know where to look I hope to find mine.

Sieglinde
Granville, WV

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 21:13:56 -0500
From: Shang <shoover@flash.net>
Subject: Re: starter porblems

jim helle wrote:
> 
> Got a 72 cutlass with a 350. After I drive it for 1/2 hour or so and
> shut it down and try to start up again it acts like a dead battery.
> Leave it sit for 3/4 of a hour and the motor spins great. The guy I
> bought the car from told me he had this same problem. He solve it by
> putting on a flex fan. (he had already put on a new starter). I didn't
> like the sound of the flex fan, so I put a new clutch on it a put the
> original fan back on. Is there a way of keeping the starter cool while
> the engine is running? I know someone has had the same problem, How did
> you solve it?
> 
> Thanks
> Jim Helle



Hmmmmm sounds like a GM starter. Does the car have headers? If it does,
then you need to get a heat shield. If not you most likely need a new
solenoid, in which case you have to pull the starter so might as well
get another one, I think they are all of $15 at the local parts stores
in Dallas. Try this, after the car is hot, jack it up and have someone
start it, while they are cranking it, tap it firmly with a hammer and
see if it speeds up. If it does you need a starter, if it doesn't you
just need a solenoid.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 22:11:16 -0400
From: uknowme <uknowme@mail.botanybay.net>
Subject: Re: starter porblems

> Got a 72 cutlass with a 350. After I drive it for 1/2 hour or so and
> shut it down and try to start up again it acts like a dead battery.
> Leave it sit for 3/4 of a hour and the motor spins great. The guy I
> bought the car from told me he had this same problem. He solve it by
> putting on a flex fan. (he had already put on a new starter). I didn't
> like the sound of the flex fan, so I put a new clutch on it a put the
> original fan back on. Is there a way of keeping the starter cool while
> the engine is running? I know someone has had the same problem, How did
> you solve it?

Jim
 I had the exaxct same problem with my musHtang, the starter was fried
are you sure he replaced it?

Tim
81 Cutlass Supreme (1 week to Ford hunting)
80 MusHtang (winter Beater)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 22:24:27 -0400 (EDT)
From: PaulP34167@aol.com
Subject: Re: Painting my car, need some help

In a message dated 97-08-18 05:56:44 EDT, you write:

> 	I would like to paint my car within the next couple of weeks, but I have a
>  question first.  What is the difference in the procedure of painting a car
>  using metalic and non-metalic paints.

Metallics are a bit harder to get a consistant color when applied.

>  I would be doing the entire work
>  myself and would much rather choose a metalic color then non-metalic. I
>  intend to remove all trim and prime the entire car.  Would this help the
>  final finish look good?  I am not looking for miracels, but would like my
>  paint to look half-decent and shine.

Removing as much as you can will allow the appearance to come out much
better.

>  Should I use clearcoat at the end?

You can use a clear coat only if the color coat allows it.
 
>  What grade sandpaper should I be using throughout the entire job?

You should use 60-100 for sanding filler, 400-600 for primer, and 600-1000
for the paint.

>  The car
>  has a vinyI top in good shape.  Should I use a different paint  and/or
>  primer when working on it.

You should paint the area under the top before you put it on, use the same
paint as the rest of the car.

> I hope that there is guys out there that did
>  this themselfs and could help me out.  Thanks.

Your welcome.  Remember that your paint is only as good as the preparation
before you apply it.  Make sure the body is smooth before you start spraying
(always use a respirator).  Good luck!

>  
>  P.S. The car being painted is the 1981 Delta 88.
>  
>  Igor Todorovic	
>  1981 Delta 88 307	
>  1995 Intrepid 3.3
>  1976 Delta 88 455
>  

Paul Pate
70 Cutlass S (350-4V, 3.08 diff., TH350)
84 Camaro (305-4V, 3.08 diff., TH700R4, low options)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 22:24:43 -0400 (EDT)
From: CarrDuff@aol.com
Subject: W35 Rear Spoiler

Does anyone know if the W35 rear spoiler was availabe on 70-72 Convertibles ?
So far all the information I've seen is that it was for coupes only.  I have
seen the spoiler on other convertibles and it looks pretty good, but was it
available when a convertible was ordered.

M. Roth & L. Madsen,  I just checked out yur WEB sites.  I thought your names
looked familar.  I have seen these sites before but I am new on this list &
finally put the two together.  Pretty cool WEB sites. 

Thanks

Steve Dietrich
  71 442 W30 Conv.
    S/E PA.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 22:47:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: PaulP34167@aol.com
Subject: Re: Repo OAI hoods...

In a message dated 97-08-20 15:38:56 EDT, you write:

> Brad, from what I hear about those reproduction hoods, you don't want 
>  one!  (unless your car is just a every day driver & you need a hood) 
>  Everyone of those repro hoods i've seen doesn't fit well at all, plus 
>  there was no "center latch".  The hood is held down by the two "turn" 
>  hold downs.  I suggest you try & find another "original" hood.  If there 
>  is other options, I'm unaware of them.  
>  Hopefully someone else might have better advice or know another solution. 
>   
>  Good Luck!  : (let's hear that story sometime once the anger and 
>  frustration wear off a little)
>  
>  RC Hellebuyck
>  1971 4-4-2 covt.

I agree somewhat.  The only problem is that "original" hoods are rare.  The
only option is to buy the reproduction.  It may take some work but these
hoods can be made to look good.

Paul Pate
70 Cutlass S (350-4V, 3.08 diff., TH350)
84 Camaro (305-4V, 3.08 diff., TH700R4, low options)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 22:35:01 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: W35 Rear Spoiler

CarrDuff@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Does anyone know if the W35 rear spoiler was availabe on 70-72 Convertibles ?
> So far all the information I've seen is that it was for coupes only.  I have
> seen the spoiler on other convertibles and it looks pretty good, but was it
> available when a convertible was ordered.
> 
> M. Roth & L. Madsen,  I just checked out yur WEB sites.  I thought your names
> looked familar.  I have seen these sites before but I am new on this list &
> finally put the two together.  Pretty cool WEB sites.
> 
The W-35 was a coupe option only.  However the pedestals can be modified
to fit the 70-72 convert./Supreme body styles.  The wing originally was
sported on the 69 H/O, and although a couple of convertibles were built
with the wing, it wasn't the norm. 

Thanks for the compliment on the site.  And Lisa's is a real cool site
too.  Click on all our links for more Oldsmobile madness......

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 21:41:28 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: Olds extravaganza - Media

 Sherry,

Thanks for the update.  That is a nice story that your family will remember
forever.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama




>Hello out there in Olds land!
>
>My dear hubby Dave is on the way to Lansing -- they are due to pull in
>today.  He joined the San Francisco caravan in Caspar Wyoming after
>travelling with one other vehicle from the Vancouver B. C. area.
>
>The Convoy has a PR crew from Oldsmobile travelling with them who are
>filming as they go.  The film is the property of Oldsmobile, and at this
>point, no-one seems to know what will be done with it.  Hopefully, it and
>film of the whole celebration event will be made into a video amd made
>available at a nominal sum.
>
>Anyway, on the 16th, the 20th anniversary of Elvis' death, the PR crew came
>to Dave and said that they decided that his red/white '55 98 Holiday coupe
>was the one car of the 50 or so on the convoy at that point that Elvis
would
>most like to be seen in!  So...they got an Elvis look-alike (or dress-up)
to
>drive the car a short distance and filmed it!
>
>To boot, on the 18th in Cedar Rapids, Iowa, Dave's car was the first shot
on
>their evening news.  They did a short piece on the caravan and the Olds
>event.  So, Dave is feeling pretty happy about the car, and it really does
>look pretty spiffy and flashy in its new paint job.
>
>Dave says travelling in the convoy is quite an experience.  Yesterday was a
>slow day (not much over 30 mph he claims!) and they went through a lot of
>little towns.  Apparently, people were out on their lawn is droves,
>cheering, watching , waving flags, etc!  I sure am sorry that my health got
>in the way of being able to go with him on this epic journey, but am
looking
>forward to seeing their tapes and pix of it all.
>
>Sherry Soball
>Delta, B. C.
>B. C. Oldsmobile Club
>
>--
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 21:46:31 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: Dual Snorkel Air Cleaner

Jeff,

 Even though it is black, it may be a repainted Toronado one from '66-67.
These have rather long snorkels w/a flairing on the ends.  That would
preclude a forced air type.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

- -


>I picked up a dual Snorkel Air cleaner recently.   It is black and doesn't
>have a label on it.  I know it is off of an Oldsmobile, because it is
>identical to both of my other two '69 4bbl air cleaners with the exception
>of having an extra snorkel and being black.  The Snorkel on the left looks
>exactly like the one on my other two '69 4bbl air cleaners, and the one on
>the right is slightly shorter.  Can anyone tell me anything about it, like
>what it might have come off of?  I don't think it is intended for force air
>induction because the end of the snorkels look just like those off my
>regular air cleaners and don't appear like they're supposed to have hoses
>attached to them.
>
>Thanks a bunch,
>
>  .
>/ | \
>| | |
>|/|\|
>\ | /
> Jeff Zeilmann
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 21:48:05 -0700
From: David McDougall <dmcdou@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: starter porblems

uknowme wrote:
> 
> > Got a 72 cutlass with a 350. After I drive it for 1/2 hour or so and
> > shut it down and try to start up again it acts like a dead battery.
> > Leave it sit for 3/4 of a hour and the motor spins great. The guy I
> > bought the car from told me he had this same problem. He solve it by
> > putting on a flex fan. (he had already put on a new starter). I didn't
> > like the sound of the flex fan, so I put a new clutch on it a put the
> > original fan back on. Is there a way of keeping the starter cool while
> > the engine is running? I know someone has had the same problem, How did
> > you solve it?
> 
> Jim
>  I had the exaxct same problem with my musHtang, the starter was fried
> are you sure he replaced it?
> 
> Tim
> 81 Cutlass Supreme (1 week to Ford hunting)
> 80 MusHtang (winter Beater)

A lot of GM owners went to a F*rd style soelenoid to solve this problem.
Summit sells them and so does just about every local parts store.  By
remotely mounting the soelenoid away from heat and bypassing the GM
piggyback unit, (Summits kit also comes with wire and jumper), you can
end the problem.  The heat usually causes the soelenoid to go, but will
eventually fry the starter, so you need the heat shield too.

Dave

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 22:08:21 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: Deltas, old digests and questions-longish

Laura,

Congratulations on the Dallas move.  I'm sure that the person needing the
antenna will be thrilled at your offer.  We all thank you for your
contribution.

 If you want to learn a little about your car, why not register for some of
those night classes at your local high school or community college on body
work or auto mechanics/maintenance.  Most of these are a couple of nights a
week for 6-8 weeks.  The cost isn't bad either.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama




<creeps out from hiding>  Lookie I'm still here  :)

But anyway, I've been really quite mostly because I've been *trying* to
catch up reading all the digests that kept piling up behind me from my 3
day vacation :)

Okay I *do* remember that someone was looking for an antanna for a 68?
Delta...I've got one in my trunk, I think it's straight with no bends in it,
If
your not at lansing send me an email and I'll crawl back there and take a
look and see if it's what yer lookin for :)

    <snip>

Of course this brings me to another thing.  Does anyone still here know
where I can buy those repair books for my car?  Not Chilton, but the good
ones <grin>  All I can find here are for newer olds and 70's Cutless  :\
I'd
also like recommendations on *any* 'dummies' mechanic books for the car
and suggestions for body work manuals (since I can't seem to find a
class that teaches that sorta thing around here - where *does* someone
go to learn bodywork???).  The body repairs on the car are *mostly*
pretty simple and I figgured that, while I'd be deathly afraid of doing
something major like taking out the back window and essentially rebuilding
part of the opening (really bad rust right there), that I could do some of
the
simpler things like getting rid of the surface rust and priming over those
spots, maybe trying to pull the dents (though the thought of drilling a hole
in the car gives me the shivers cause I don't want to mess it up).

    <snip>

I'm sure there were a few other things I was going to catch up on, but
I've seem to forgotten <sigh>  Oh well, I guess it'll give me something to
talk about later <grin>

Laura
66 Delta 88...Pook the ghost car
Bryan, TX  (soon to be Dallas, TX <cheer>)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 23:35:42 -0400
From: "Steve B." <steveb@thecia.net>
Subject: Re: starter porblems

David McDougall wrote:

> 
> A lot of GM owners went to a F*rd style soelenoid to solve this problem.
> Summit sells them and so does just about every local parts store.  By
> remotely mounting the soelenoid away from heat and bypassing the GM
> piggyback unit, (Summits kit also comes with wire and jumper), you can
> end the problem.  The heat usually causes the soelenoid to go, but will
> eventually fry the starter, so you need the heat shield too.
> 
> Dave

I have the Ford solenoid on my car and would recommend it to anyone (as
long as you are not to concerned with originality) especially if you
have headers!! I have a couple of Chevy friends who had the "hot start"
problems and have had good luck with this setup so I decided to go for
it also....You don't need to buy the kit though, just go to the local
parts store and buy an pre computer solenoid, you will need a two post
model if you are running points. I have found that this setup also
helped me a lot in installing the starter in my car which has headers,
and it keeps the ignition and starter wire away from the heat leaving
only the battery cable to worry about..

Steve
71 Cutlass S 455
93 Mustang LX 5.0

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 23:39:28 -0400 (EDT)
From: CRuper1@aol.com
Subject: Re: starter porblems

In a message dated 97-08-20 22:23:48 EDT, you write:

<< 
 > Got a 72 cutlass with a 350. After I drive it for 1/2 hour or so and
 > shut it down and try to start up again it acts like a dead battery.
 > Leave it sit for 3/4 of a hour and the motor spins great. The guy I
 > bought the car from told me he had this same problem. He solve it by
 > putting on a flex fan. (he had already put on a new starter). I didn't
 > like the sound of the flex fan, so I put a new clutch on it a put the
 > original fan back on. Is there a way of keeping the starter cool while
 > the engine is running? I know someone has had the same problem, How did
 > you solve it?
 
 Jim
  I had the exaxct same problem with my musHtang, the starter was fried
 are you sure he replaced it?
 
 Tim
 81 Cutlass Supreme (1 week to Ford hunting)
 80 MusHtang (winter Beater)
 
  >>

First, make sure your timing isn't way out of whack... this'll do the same
thing, otherwise, just hit the parts store.  I replaced my starter, and
solenoid in my '81 Cutlass for $28, they came as a package (exchanged mine in
for a core).

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 23:44:08 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Left to bring up the rear.....

Matt Cremean wrote:
> 
> Mike Rothe wrote:
> >
> > Well, here we are, most of the others have packed up and gone to the
> > front and left us unfortunate ones here to fend for ourselves.  I do
> > believe, however, there is still enough talent left on the list while
> > others are gone to be able to handle most anything that comes up.  I
> > will, as always, try to help out when I can.  It's like when the boys go
> > off to war, some of us have to stay at the homefront to keep things in
> > order till they get back.  At least if we run into a real stumper, we
> > can always repost next week when the masses return.
> >
> > With that said, I hope that everyone going to Lansing has a safe trip,
> > has a great time, and brings back many stories and experiences to
> > share.  I know I'll be wincing though, hearing about the good time I,
> > and many others here, have missed.  For those living in or near Lansing,
> > you get the best of both worlds.(Hint: Keep us informed!)
> >
> > Here's to the homefront, and let's keep the list active, if possible.
> > We can still have a good time here!!
> >
> > Mike Rothe
> 
> Don't worry. I'm going tomorrow and taking LOTS OF FILM!!! I'll post
> them on my web page if you'd like. ANY REQUESTS as to what cars I should
> shoot?
> 
> --
> **********************************
> Matt Cremean
> +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
> CreamerSoftİ Software
> http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
> +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
> 1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
> http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
> **********************************
Yes, Matt. ALL OF THEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  Economically impossible but
definite good idea.  Enjoy while the rest of us continue paying taxes
and laboring to keep the economy moving.  While you are there, have a
Bud, Stroh's or (a better idea) a local brew for the rest of us.  Any
pictures taken will be appreciated by all I'm sure.

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, Ky

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 23:58:43 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Disappointed with Members

Steve Pohlmann wrote:
> 
> RCKTPWR@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > >>>a quote most suitable for this whole matter,  from 1 of the better movies
> > from the 80's.....LIGHTEN UP FRANCIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> >
> > BERNIE SEGEBADE
> > CRANFORD NJ               ROCKET POWER------ROCKET OLDS!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> WHY ARE WE STILL BEATING THIS DEAD HORSE ? ENOUGH SAID.

All right now.  Will someone please back up the crane and put the dead
horse on a pallet and load it on the glue factory truck.  A little
higher please.  Yes that's fine.  Back up the truck a little more.  Now
lower onto the lowboy and take it to the dog food factory.  ENOUGH
already.  Steve I agree with you totally.  The people on this list are
some of the nicest people I've met in a while, but they are not
perfect.  However, since everyone has kissed and made up, let's go for a
ride in one of these fine veHICLES.  Tonight would have been perfect for
a top down cruise in Ky, 70-75 degrees and low smog level.  Okay
everybody out to cruise the burger places with smiles. 

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, Ky

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 22:57:01 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: [none]

 Leaving for Lansing in the am. Wish me luck. This is the first long
distance shakedown for my Olds. can't afford; don't want to truck it. The
Holiday Inn tomorrow night may be the highlight of the event.
If anyone needs anything, this is the last chance to let me know.

Mick Gillespie, Columbus, Indiana
69 Cutlass S convertible
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 00:01:04 -0400
From: Howie <qcquad@cuny.campus.mci.net>
Subject: Re: Convertible Top for '66 Cutlass

contact a company called faxon

http://www.faxon.com

they have paint samples and other things for many cars

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 00:05:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: DDortch@aol.com
Subject: Re: New Member - 67 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

Welcome...I'm new too, used to have a '69 cutlass supreme I bought when I was
16 (1982)...but my new bride encouraged me to sell (1990) it 'cause it rarely
started and was rusting away and I had no garage (and she was embarassed to
be seen in it!).  I'm back in action w/a '71 350 4door.  BTW, are all 4 doors
"sedans" and all  2 doors like my '69 called "coups"?  I'm not up to speed on
my Oldsspeak.  It runs great for only $350 and every light works and it's not
too beat up.  Yes, my wife allowed me to drag her out in it for some ice
cream along with our 2 year old son, who's favorite phrase is now "ride the
cutlass car!"  
p.s. my wife is still embarrassed.
Jeff

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 00:05:11 -0400
From: Howie <qcquad@cuny.campus.mci.net>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: VIN Info

the vin 342671m184186 means:
c/s  convertable from michigan

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 00:11:49 -0400 (EDT)
From: BMAN6771@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds extravaganza - Media

i dont mean to boast but i leave for lansing today!!!!

sorry to all who cant be there!

brent

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 00:18:52 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: New Member - 67 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

DDortch@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Welcome...I'm new too, used to have a '69 cutlass supreme I bought when I was
> 16 (1982)...but my new bride encouraged me to sell (1990) it 'cause it rarely
> started and was rusting away and I had no garage (and she was embarassed to
> be seen in it!).  I'm back in action w/a '71 350 4door.  BTW, are all 4 doors
> "sedans" and all  2 doors like my '69 called "coups"?  I'm not up to speed on
> my Oldsspeak.  It runs great for only $350 and every light works and it's not
> too beat up.  Yes, my wife allowed me to drag her out in it for some ice
> cream along with our 2 year old son, who's favorite phrase is now "ride the
> cutlass car!"
> p.s. my wife is still embarrassed.
> Jeff

Jeff,

If I remember correctly, cars with center posts between the doors and
the front door and rear quarter (where else would they be) were
considered sedans.  Those without were coupes or hardtops depending on
the specific company's terminology.  Don't know if this is 100% correct
though. 

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, Ky

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 00:14:18 -0400
From: Howie <qcquad@cuny.campus.mci.net>
Subject: Re: starter porblems

buy a heat shield, it may be easier to install than the remote selonoid

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 00:19:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: DDortch@aol.com
Subject: Re: starter porblems

When I had my '69 cutlass 350 had same problem with a new starter-- I scuffed
the battery terminals&connection w/ a wire brush and it went away...it's a
mystery why but it worked-- probably had nothing to do w/why the problem
stopped.
jeff 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 00:44:59 -0400 (EDT)
From: AKOHLER@aol.com
Subject: engines

Hi,
    Just a note to all Oldsmobile lovers. GM is selling off remanufactured
350s at a resonable price. They have two versions with A.I.R. and without
A.I.R the price is the same. The price at the dealership I work at is
$1619.90 plus TAX. the come with a 3 50,000 mile warranty. It wouldn't be a
#s matching engine but it could keep the car on the rode will your rebuilding
the original. 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 23:38:01 -0700
From: David McDougall <dmcdou@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: starter porblems

DDortch@aol.com wrote:
> 
> When I had my '69 cutlass 350 had same problem with a new starter-- I scuffed
> the battery terminals&connection w/ a wire brush and it went away...it's a
> mystery why but it worked-- probably had nothing to do w/why the problem
> stopped.
> jeff

No, actually we have all readily assumed that heat was the real problem
because it is very common, especially with headers.  But your suggestion
above is actually the very first thing that should have been checked. 
Good contacts and healthy wires are essential to just about everything
in the starting and charging circuit.  Ashamed I didn't think of it....

Dave

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 00:49:45 -0400
From: Howie <qcquad@cuny.campus.mci.net>
Subject: Re: engines

does gm sell remanufactured or new trannys, specifically the 700R4

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 07:39:02 +0100
From: "J. Hoekendijk" <Hoekenj@apeldoorn.nl>
Subject: Re: Greetings from LANSING !

Bill,

Gues you're all having a good time! Very curious about how it all looks so
I'll keep checking your site for images, I've never been to a swap-meet
anyway!

To add a new subscriber to the list, sent an e-mail to:
     majordomo@chebucto.ns.ca
with the following command in the body:
     subscribe oldsmobile
or if you just want the digest:
     subscribe oldsmobile-digest
I hope this is what you ment by asking for the URL ('cause it isn't an
URL).

And yes, I still need some parts, the one's I'm still missing:
     "Vista" and "Cruiser" fender scripts, both LH and RH
     Outside mirror (F-85)
All for a 1964 Vista Cruiser.
And what I would like is a license-plate with something about a VC on it
(that will be hard I gues) or just something about Oldsmobile on it.
If there exists a 1964 VC model, I've got to have it!

Jim Hoekendijk, '64 Cutlass Vista Cruiser.
Apeldoorn, The Netherlands
Hoekenj@apeldoorn.nl

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 07:54:39 +0100
From: "J. Hoekendijk" <Hoekenj@apeldoorn.nl>
Subject: Lansing pictures

Good idea, Bill, to put some Lansing pictures on your site. So we who
can't visit, still can see a little bit of it! Spread the word, we want pictures!

No need to say I'm extra interested in '64 VC's.

For you all that don't have a site, I'd be delighted if you can send images
by e-mail to me directly.

Hope you're all having a good time!

Jim Hoekendijk, '64 Cutlass Vista Cruiser
Apeldoorn, The Netherlands
hoekenj@apeldoorn.nl

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 01:37:36 -0500
From: Adam <xadirc@megsinet.net>
Subject: GUAGES

MAN! I leave my pc alone for a day and i have 114 new messages....  I
have recieved so much help and replys on my guage insatllment that i can
nolonger respond to each one... I am almost done as of tonight and i
will post a "current status" so you guys can tell me what I am doing
wrong.


I moved the clip on the 6 side of the tach to the 8 side. I DID not go
buy a new one, its just connects to terminals together, its nothing
special... It is not a switch, it is the clip.

I pulled the seal around the speedometer cable and ran a wire and a
vacum tube along next to it. The wire I spliced into the pre-existing
wire going from the tach post on the distibutor to the computer... The
vacum hose I am using to hook up a vacum guage and I am putting it into
the area a analog clock goes (I hated to have to cut that nice emblem
out!)

I went to a parts store and a got a 45 elbow for 1/8" brass fitting, and
went to a hardware store and bought a nipple and was able to put it all
together and YES i used teflon tape.  I started the engine and ran for a
while to see if there were any leaks.. none 
P.S. The old oil switch is a BIT*H to get out, it has NO flat spots and
nothing can turn it.... I had to resort to taking out the crusie control
and clamping a massive VICE-GRIPS onto it.. only to hear CRUNCH... ITS
ALMOST ALL PLASTIC... i said oh, well and gave and turn and ALLIEGLUIEA,
it started turning and i safely removed it..



I drained 1/4" of the radiator and removed the temp switch, The sending
unit I got looks EXACTLY the same so i have my doubts... the only
differnece is a red dot indside the plug connecting area... i put it in
and filled the radiator back up...

So all the proper units are installed and any work on the engine is
done.. now all i have to do is re-set the wiring harnesses and plug it
all in...

Adam Andersen

- -- 
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
|                            Contact me!                            |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Internet Pagoo Pager  Dial 1-888-pagoo-44 (toll-free) ID 3576267  |
|    OR Visit           http://www.pagoo.com/cgi-bin/me.cgi?3576267 |
|                                                                   |
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|                                                                   |
| E-mail                mailto:x2badx@wwa.com                       |
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
<<<END MESSAGE>>><<<DIGITAL ID FOLLOWS>>>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 01:49:00 -0500
From: Adam <xadirc@megsinet.net>
Subject: LOST!!

Today, even with no speedometer, I came to the stop light next to a
m*nte c*rl* SS, he LEFT ME off the line like i was a rock... he
immediately gained about 3 car lengths of lead... at what i think was
about 45 or 50mph i started to gain on him big time!... i came within 3
feet of his back bumper and by then i pressumed i was going 60-70mph so
i said oh well, everyone knows GM used recycled oldmobile metal (and who
knows what else) to make ch*vys so i drove home with a grin...

Adam Andersen

85 Cutlass Supreme Brogham 307cu  <-- No dashboard


- -- 
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
|                            Contact me!                            |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Internet Pagoo Pager  Dial 1-888-pagoo-44 (toll-free) ID 3576267  |
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- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
<<<END MESSAGE>>><<<DIGITAL ID FOLLOWS>>>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 03:30:19 -0400
From: Brian Kennedy <kennedyb@primenet.com>
Subject: std 455 operating temp

What is the typical operating temp of a 455?  I have the 85 Cutlass with
a built 455....should it run around 210-230 degress?
Brian

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 05:54:21 -0500
From: katana72@juno.com (Rob T)
Subject: Re: starter porblems

It sounds like "heat soak" to me. A Heat guard plate should be over the
starter.
On Wed, 20 Aug 1997 23:39:28 -0400 (EDT) CRuper1@aol.com writes:
>In a message dated 97-08-20 22:23:48 EDT, you write:
>
><< 
> > Got a 72 cutlass with a 350. After I drive it for 1/2 hour or so 
>and
> > shut it down and try to start up again it acts like a dead battery.
> > Leave it sit for 3/4 of a hour and the motor spins great. The guy I
> > bought the car from told me he had this same problem. He solve it 
>by
> > putting on a flex fan. (he had already put on a new starter). I 
>didn't
> > like the sound of the flex fan, so I put a new clutch on it a put 
>the
> > original fan back on. Is there a way of keeping the starter cool 
>while
> > the engine is running? I know someone has had the same problem, How 
>did
> > you solve it?
> 
> Jim
>  I had the exaxct same problem with my musHtang, the starter was 
>fried
> are you sure he replaced it?
> 
> Tim
> 81 Cutlass Supreme (1 week to Ford hunting)
> 80 MusHtang (winter Beater)
> 
>  >>
>
>First, make sure your timing isn't way out of whack... this'll do the 
>same
>thing, otherwise, just hit the parts store.  I replaced my starter, 
>and
>solenoid in my '81 Cutlass for $28, they came as a package (exchanged 
>mine in
>for a core).
>
>Chris Ruper
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 07:52:26 -0400 (EDT)
From: Markintime@aol.com
Subject: Re: Build Sheets

Jamie,
A build sheet is a document used during the assembly of a vehicle to
determine
what options should be installed on the vehicle as a part of the build.
The build sheet is typically the most accurate way to verify what options
should
be on the car.  In the case of a 442 for example, the build sheet can be used
to
verify whether or not the car was a W-30.

Mark Berube
67' 442
Loganville, GA.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 03:24:06 -0700
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Left to bring up the rear.....

Matt Cremean wrote:

> Don't worry. I'm going tomorrow and taking LOTS OF FILM!!! I'll post
> them on my web page if you'd like. ANY REQUESTS as to what cars I should
> shoot?

You may have opened Pandora's box there! :-)  I would like to mainly see
convertibles and muscle cars from 1964 - 1972.

Thanks,

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 07:55:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: Markintime@aol.com
Subject: Re: HEI

Jamie,
High Energy Ignition

Mark Berube
67' 442
Loganville, GA.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 05:00:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: Thanks for tire info

 I seem to be about 1/10 of an inch short... In my calculations, I
mean...
 
 Any suggestions??? Could be that 0.039 should be 0.03937 (1/25.4).
 
******************
Yes it should be. But for me the.039 is easier to remember so tire
sizes are easy to calculate at a moments notice!


===
John Pajak                       Information Spectrum Inc.
Network Installation Team
Naval Air Station, Patuxent River, Maryland

JSPajak@rocketmail.com



 
_____________________________________________________________________
Sent by RocketMail. Get your free e-mail at http://www.rocketmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 03:42:56 -0700
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: 

M&D Gillespie wrote:
> 
>  Leaving for Lansing in the am. Wish me luck. This is the first long
> distance shakedown for my Olds. can't afford; don't want to truck it. The
> Holiday Inn tomorrow night may be the highlight of the event.
> If anyone needs anything, this is the last chance to let me know.

Have a safe trip!

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 03:48:23 -0700
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Convertible Top for '66 Cutlass

Howie wrote:
> 
> contact a company called faxon
> 
> http://www.faxon.com
> 
> they have paint samples and other things for many cars

I searched their web site and came up with nothing.  Let me know
what address to use.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 03:50:58 -0700
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: New Member - 67 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

DDortch@aol.com wrote:
 
> be seen in it!).  I'm back in action w/a '71 350 4door.  BTW, are all 4 doors
> "sedans" and all  2 doors like my '69 called "coups"?  I'm not up to speed on

2 doors, no center post => hardtop coupe
2 doors, center post    => sports coupe
4 doors, no center post => hardtop sedan
4 doors, center post    => ? I don't know here.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 08:23:30 -0400
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: RE: Olds extravaganza - Media

Sherry, I am enjoying your updates  on Dave's trip as I am sure others 
are also. Thank you for taking the time at least to inform us of the 
fun he is having. So far these are the only reports from the front,  I 
have seen on the list. Keep them coming.

Also I want to say hello to the boys in Kentucky. I live in GA now, 
but I call Brooksville  (Bracken Co.) home. I have a lot of relatives 
in that area. It is located about 50 miles from Lexington. I am trying 
to get back there for Labor day for a few days.

Also "Hi" to John Pajak, did you complete the garage for all those 
cars. He has a lot. Do you have any pictures of the 70 442? I would 
like to see it. You can see a picture of mine on the Web page below.

Well back to work.


Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the.....Past
Augusta, GA
http://home1.gte.net/betzel/be.html

- -----Original Message-----
From:	Sherry_Soball@Douglas.BC.CA [SMTP:Sherry_Soball@Douglas.BC.CA]
Sent:	Wednesday, August 20, 1997 6:20 PM
To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:	Re: Olds extravaganza - Media

Hello again...

Another phoned report from hubby Dave in Lansing!  All went well, and 
as
reported, Michigan roads are apparently VERY rough.  Opening 
ceremonies was
apparently very impressive with all caravan vehicles parading in front 
of
the ceremonials.  Traffic from Tinley Park to Lansing seemingly 
horrendous.

Now that the problem is resolved, another funny little episode on 
Dave's
journey east...Three days out of Vancouver, he discovers that on 
cleaning
out his wallet prior to departure, he misplaced his driver's license 
in the
wrong pile, and subsequently left in here at home!  Good, no driver's
license and in another country to boot!  Anyway, the next day I was 
able to
fax him a copy to his motel, and mail it out to him at his motel in 
Lansing.
He received it on arrival there.

In addition, his travelling mate left all his maps at home -- he who 
told
Dave not to get maps as he had them all!  And, on arrival in Lansing, 
his
room reservation at Motel 6 was screwed up and cancelled (Al's that 
is), but
he screamed loud enough they managed to come up with the room they 
had
cancelled on him yesterday!  Lucky, lucky.  Al, however, did also have 
a bit
of difficulty with a master cylinder in his '71 Toro in Sioux City, 
Iowa
which they were able to replace in Fort Dodge, fortunately.

On the whole, things not going too badly for the B. C. pair!  I wanna 
be
there!  |-(  Just like the rest of you stay-at-homes.

Sherry Soball
Delta, B. C.
B. C. Oldsmobile Club
email:  soballs@douglas.bc.ca
- --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 08:31:55 -0400
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: Painting Experiences

Thanks Kevin,
	I'm possibly one step closer to correcting an old problem. I
will call them and ask a few questions. 

Fernando Proietto
Systems Analyst - Informatics

Environment Canada
Ontario Region - Monitoring & Systems Branch
4905 Dufferin St. 
Downsview, Ontario
M3H 5T4

> ----------
> From: 	Kevin Wong[SMTP:brougham@geocities.com]
> Sent: 	Wednesday, August 20, 1997 3:48 PM
> To: 	'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
> Subject: 	RE: Painting Experiences
> 
> > Hey Kevin, you said you cars are Sikkens painted. Who did your cars?
> 
> M & D Autobody, 260 Midwest Rd. Unit #5, Scarborough,  759-5810.
> Also, a friend's '77 Custom Cruiser was painted there around 1992.
> Earlier this year, due to an accident, the driver's side rear door was
> replaced.  They did a great job blending in the light blue metallic
> base-clear paint.
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 08:46:15 -0400
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: starter problems

I had the same problem even before I installed my hedders. Usually the
problem is that the heat from the exhaust pipe causes the solenoid to
heat up and not work, hence after 3/4 hour it starts fine. You either
wrap the exhaust pipes and/or install a metal heat shield over the
starter. If your starter is older and weak the problem will occur more
frequently and cause the starters life to degrade very quickly. If you
don't want to get stuck somewhere then your choices are 1. a new starter
(although the same will happen to it eventually), 2. wrap the exhaust
pipe + heat shield starter, 3. install a new solenoid (there cheap) if
the starter is fine. 4. Live with the problem until the starter
completely fails in which case goto number 1.

Fernando Proietto
Systems Analyst - Informatics

Environment Canada
Ontario Region - Monitoring & Systems Branch
4905 Dufferin St. 
Downsview, Ontario
M3H 5T4

> ----------
> From: 	jim helle[SMTP:helle@theonramp.net]
> Sent: 	Wednesday, August 20, 1997 10:08 PM
> To: 	oldsmobile e-mail
> Subject: 	starter porblems
> 
> Got a 72 cutlass with a 350. After I drive it for 1/2 hour or so and
> shut it down and try to start up again it acts like a dead battery.
> Leave it sit for 3/4 of a hour and the motor spins great. The guy I
> bought the car from told me he had this same problem. He solve it by
> putting on a flex fan. (he had already put on a new starter). I didn't
> like the sound of the flex fan, so I put a new clutch on it a put the
> original fan back on. Is there a way of keeping the starter cool while
> the engine is running? I know someone has had the same problem, How
> did
> you solve it?
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 09:11:31 -0400
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: Thanks for tire info

RC Hellebuyck
	you should take into consideration a few things before deciding
which tire size you get. I will tell you why I chose the P235/60R14 for
my '72 442 . For one, the G70-14 is not widely used any more and finding
a tire with good rubber characteristics with this size is difficult.
Next, I couldn't find the 70 series tire in that size from BFG. I bought
the tires at a Price Club in Detroit. Off the rack that size just wasn't
there. Also, the 70 series tend to have more side wall and the car is
heavy enough, I don't want to feel the tires side wall flexing anymore
that I have to. P235 is a wide foot print and having a taller sidewall
will cause more pressure and flexing of the tire. Next, if you go with
the P245/60R14 you WILL get tire rubbing in the front tires. Had a
friend with those sizes and he kept complaining of how it rubbed while
turning or over bumps while turning. Mind you I have never had this size
before so I'm conveying only what I have heard while talking to others
who have had them. If you compare the sizes, using 	Dan Lacey's
figures, the difference between the P235 and P245 in 60 series is only
.47 inches, not a whole lot. You could do a combination of P245 rear and
P235 front. That will solve one problem and introduce a few more though.

	I can only tell you my experiences since I have a G70-14 set
when I bought the car, they were just installed. A lot of tire flexing
and not very stable. Put the P235's on and what a difference in
handling. I'll probably get the same handling feeling using the P245 hut
I would be a little concerned about the rubbing in front.


Fernando Proietto
Systems Analyst - Informatics

Environment Canada
Ontario Region - Monitoring & Systems Branch
4905 Dufferin St. 
Downsview, Ontario
M3H 5T4

> ----------
> From: 	John Pajak[SMTP:jspajak@rocketmail.com]
> Sent: 	Wednesday, August 20, 1997 4:31 PM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Re: Thanks for tire info
> 
>       NO! Don't put tires that short on a 71 A-body! If you have to
> have 60 series tires then get P24560R14s. Nobody makes a bigger 60
> series tire than the 245, which is still too short as compared to the
> original G70-14s. BFG still makes (although I heard they might be
> discontinued) a P23570R14 that looks right. 22570R14s are still
> available and although a little short they still look OK. Of course if
> you use 15" wheels and 24560R15s the height is there to fill the
> wheelwell.
>      Use this formula to figure tire section width (the widest part of
> the tire, not necessarily the tread width)  and overall height:
> ((section width in MM x .039) X (aspect ratio) X2) + rim diameter
> 
> examples P23570R14     9.165 wide  26.83 tall
>                 P23560R14     9.165 wide  24.99 tall
>                 P24560R14     9.555 wide  25.47 tall 
>                 P24560R15     9.555 wide  26.47 tall
> 
> ----------
> From: 	Dan Lacey[SMTP:lacey@dsea.com]
> Sent: 	Wednesday, August 20, 1997 6:57 PM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Re: Thanks for tire info
> 
> I get:
> 
> P235/70-R14     section height: 6.48 (164.5 MM), diameter: 26.95
> (684.6 MM)
> P235/60-R14     section height: 5.55 (141.0 MM), diameter: 25.10
> (637.6 MM)
> P245/60-R14     section height: 5.79 (147.0 MM), diameter: 25.57
> (649.6 MM)
> P245/60-R15     section height: 5.79 (147.0 MM), diameter: 26.57
> (675.0 MM)
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 09:15:08 -0400
From: Ray Moriarty <rmoriarty@blairinc.com>
Subject: Re: Cam recommendation

At 05:14 PM 8/11/97 -0700, you wrote:
>On Mr. Gasket's desktop dyno,
>the 350 with pocket ported heads, 9:1 compression, small tube headers
>(open, like the other companies run on their Dynos), you get 352 HP at
>5500 RPM and almost 400 ft/lbs of torque from 2500 - 4500.

Alright, I give. What is pocket porting?

TIA
Ray
Alexandria, VA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 09:32:52 -0400 (EDT)
From: The Sugarmans <sugarman@berkshire.net>
Subject: Re: Dual Snorkel Air Cleaner

On Wed, 20 Aug 1997, Mike Rothe wrote:

> 
> What you have here, is possibly a semi-rare piece.  Although not as
> desireable as the OAI, it most likely came off a one-year only, 71 442. 

My son has one on his '69 442.  It is red - appears to be original color -
and he bought a new sticker for it - I think from Yr1.

How $emi-rare i$ it?  ;-)

Don Sugarman
Pittsfield, MA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 09:37:48 -0400
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: RE: Lansing pictures

Great, Bill I can't wait to see them. I will offer space on my site if 
you need it. If you want to e-mail them to me at:

bobby.etzel@gsc.gte.com  I will post them.


BTW If you and any others could take pictures and get any information 
on cars for sale, for the list members that would be great also.

Hope you are having fun, I know you are, and thanks again.

Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the....Past
Augusta, GA
http://home1.gte.net/betzel/be.html

- -----Original Message-----
From:	J. Hoekendijk [SMTP:Hoekenj@apeldoorn.nl]
Sent:	Thursday, August 21, 1997 2:55 AM
To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:	Lansing pictures

Good idea, Bill, to put some Lansing pictures on your site. So we who
can't visit, still can see a little bit of it! Spread the word, we 
want pictures!

No need to say I'm extra interested in '64 VC's.

For you all that don't have a site, I'd be delighted if you can send 
images
by e-mail to me directly.

Hope you're all having a good time!

Jim Hoekendijk, '64 Cutlass Vista Cruiser
Apeldoorn, The Netherlands
hoekenj@apeldoorn.nl

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 06:46:10 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@nfs.aisf.com>
Subject: Re: Lansing pictures

Etzel, Bobby wrote:
> 
> Great, Bill I can't wait to see them. I will offer space on my site if
> you need it. If you want to e-mail them to me at:
> 
> bobby.etzel@gsc.gte.com  I will post them.
> 
> BTW If you and any others could take pictures and get any information
> on cars for sale, for the list members that would be great also.
> 
> Hope you are having fun, I know you are, and thanks again.

I will be happy to post any pictures on my web site.  I havent't used it
yet so I have up to 5 MB of free space.  Let me know.


Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 06:49:06 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@nfs.aisf.com>
Subject: Re: Sikkens paint

Hi all,

Yesterday someone posted information on Sikkens paint.  I went to the
web site and found a directory listing.  Can this same individual give
me different address.  I contact AOL and as usual they were useless.
Giving me a bunch of garbage regarding the release of account activity.
Heck!  All I wanted was an e-mail address!  Don't those morons know
that as soon as someone/some company use their account for web searching
and e-mailing that their address becomes public knowledge?  Doh!

Anyway, I would appreciate another address.

TIA

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 06:52:09 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@nfs.aisf.com>
Subject: Re: Guage question

Hi all,

No this is not an installation question! :-)  While driving my 1982
Delta Royale, I notice that my oil and temperature guage appears to
be within normal operation when all of a sudden the red indicators 
start glowing.  This occurs after I have been driving for 30 minutes
on the freeway (65+ mph) on a hot day.  They don't stay on for long.
I was wondering what give here?  I couldn't find anything in my owner's
manual.

TIA

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 10:22:20 -0400
From: Aaron S Janke <asjanke@mtu.edu>
Subject: Rear end

Hello all

Hoping to get a little information or at least be directed in the right
direction to find some information on rear end swaps.  I just picked up a
set of 3.73 guts out of a 85 s-10 blazer.  I plan on using them in my 84
Cutlass Calais (I think I am currently running 2.53 or something like that)
and am looking for any pointers on going through with this before I dive in
and maybe really mess something up good.  I realize that it would probably
be to my advantage to just go find another rear end but being that I am
just a poor college student I really don't have the money to go out and
spend a fortune on rear end parts.

Also these gears that I just got have some kind of a limited slip system
but it is not like one I have ever seen before.  It didn't have a tag on
the cover but the carrier is housing some interesting parts that consist of
a dog type of system.  Would this be better than the cone type limited
slips.  I am sorry I don't now the terminology for all of these parts.
hopefully all that wasn't to confusing.

Any tips or tricks that would lead me away from disaster would be a great help

thanks

Aaron Janke

84 Cutlass Calias
88 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 09:16:09 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: std 455 operating temp

Brian,

 The thermostat controls this to a large extent.  A 180 thermostat will run
at 180, while a 195 will run at 195.  Don't worry if your 195 seems to hit
200 as those gauges are usually not highly accurate.



>What is the typical operating temp of a 455?  I have the 85 Cutlass with
>a built 455....should it run around 210-230 degress?
>Brian
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 08:07:49 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: LOST!!

Adam wrote:

> Today, even with no speedometer, I came to the stop light next to a
> m*nte c*rl* SS, he LEFT ME off the line like i was a rock... he

Probably due to the MC's SS's 3.73:1 rear gears.  Combined with the stock
2400rpm stall converter and the low first gear in the 200-4R, it makes for
one heck of a launch off the line.  I know, I regularly blow away 5.slow's
with my '84 H/O (just off the line, they eventually would catch up but by
that time I'm doing at least the speed limit so I ease off).

Also, the MC SS's are way too easy to find aftermarket parts for.  I mean,
you can buy a performance rebuilt Ch*vy 350 for about $1000 to replace the
305.

Tom Lentz
tlentz@ior.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 10:12:32 -0500 (CDT)
From: acg@dlogics.com
Subject: Re: Guage question

> No this is not an installation question! :-)  While driving my 1982
> Delta Royale, I notice that my oil and temperature guage appears to
> be within normal operation when all of a sudden the red indicators 
> start glowing.  This occurs after I have been driving for 30 minutes
> on the freeway (65+ mph) on a hot day.  They don't stay on for long.

What, both your oil _and_ temp warning lights are lighting up?
Sounds like you're overheating, plus your oil is probably thinning
in the excess heat and your pressure is going down. I'd start with
the cooling system: flush it out well and get a 50/50 coolant/water
mix in there, pressure check the system and the radiator cap, maybe
blast the bugs out of the radiator. I found from experience that once
I had the cooling problems fixed, the oil light wouldn't come on at
stoplights when the car was breathing hard.

- -- Andy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 10:21:38 -0500 (CDT)
From: acg@dlogics.com
Subject: Re: GUAGES

> I am almost done as of tonight and i
> will post a "current status" so you guys can tell me what I am doing
> wrong.

This has been going on long enough that I can't stay silent any
more: It's _gauge_, not _guage_. Thanks, I feel better now.  :-)

> I pulled the seal around the speedometer cable and ran a wire and a
> vacum tube along next to it. The wire I spliced into the pre-existing
> wire going from the tach post on the distibutor to the computer... The
> vacum hose I am using to hook up a vacum guage and I am putting it into
> the area a analog clock goes (I hated to have to cut that nice emblem
> out!)

Maybe you don't have to. The analog clock option only occupies the
lower half of that panel, in a little rectangular opening, with the
logo above it. (In '81 or earlier they put a rear defog switch there,
but in later years it was relocated to the lower left dash and the
logo went there instead.) So you should be able to find a clock-type
faceplate in the junkyard if you can snuggle the vacuum gauge into
the opening.

> I drained 1/4" of the radiator and removed the temp switch, The sending
> unit I got looks EXACTLY the same so i have my doubts...

That's okay; they do look real similar. But if you do a resistance
check on them when they're cold, you should find infinite resistance
(i.e. no continuity) through the idiot light switch, but some amount
of measurable resistance/current flow through the sending unit.

> So all the proper units are installed and any work on the engine is
> done.. now all i have to do is re-set the wiring harnesses and plug it
> all in...

Okay, we'll wait right here, hiding under our desks.  :-)

- -- Andy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 08:22:43 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@nfs.aisf.com>
Subject: Re: Guage question

acg@dlogics.com wrote:

> What, both your oil _and_ temp warning lights are lighting up?

Sometimes they do.

> Sounds like you're overheating, plus your oil is probably thinning
> in the excess heat and your pressure is going down. I'd start with

I think I am running with 20W50?  Does that sound right?  I know it is
not 10W30.

> the cooling system: flush it out well and get a 50/50 coolant/water

I believe I got that.

> mix in there, pressure check the system and the radiator cap, maybe

There is an idea.

> blast the bugs out of the radiator. I found from experience that once

Don't have too many bug problems in So. Cal.

> I had the cooling problems fixed, the oil light wouldn't come on at
> stoplights when the car was breathing hard.

Well the strange this is that when the lights come on the guages
indicate
< 200 degrees on the thermo and around 30 for the oil.  One way I have
found
to have the indicators turn off is to rev the engine.  Wierd isn't it?


Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 11:43:00 EDT
From: jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
Subject: (Event): All-Oldsmobile Funshow

For anyone in the St. Louis or Mid-West area:

BRING YOUR OLDSMOBILE....

The next REAL big show that you don't want to miss is the 14th Annual 
All-Oldsmobile Funshow.  This year, of course, we are celebrating 
Oldsmobile's 100th anniversary.  My wife and I are organizing Archway 
Oldsmobile's Annual Funshow this year.  It is a car show/swap meet that is 
open to the public and will be held on Sept 7, 1997.   This is a successful 
and growing event, and we anticipate the largest one ever for this year.  It 
is held at "The Heart of St. Charles Banquet center" parking lot, which is 
right next to Highway 70 (30 feet from the highway) and fully visible to 
thousands of people driving by on HWY 70.  It is also conveniently located 
next to Historic downtown St. Charles Riverfront Landing, and right next 
door to the Station Casino-St. Charles (Also one of our proud sponsors).  We 
had a good showing last year of old to new Olds.  A total of well over 100 
cars were on display.  Some of the highlights were a 1968 H/O, two 1970 
W30s, 1983 H/O 15th Anniversary model, 1972 Indy Pace car (all original, and 
never restored), 1955 olds, 1949 Olds and a great assortment of 442s and 
Cutlasses.  Many trophies were awarded, the '68 H/O took one.

This year we anticipate the largest turnout ever.

We are trying to get as much representation from Oldsmobiles 100 years as 
possible, and expect to see representation from the 30's through the 90's. 
 I will be providing the Oldies music (I used to work for Jukebox 96 FM here 
in St. Louis doing an oldies show, and have been doing mobile DJing since 
1982).  You can expect to see a performance by "Jake and Elwood's Rock and 
Roll, Rhythm and Blues Review" some time around noon or 1:00pm.   Also, food 
and beverages will be available.

Here is the information: (you can see a similar ad in Cars & Parts magazine) 


Sept. 7, 1997, 8am-5pm - St. Charles MO - Archway Oldmobile Funshow.  Car 
Show/swap meet that is open to the public, and held by The Archway 
Oldsmobile Club of St. Louis from 8am to 5pm.  Have a unique or classic 
Olds?  Come show it!  It is held at "The Heart of St. Charles Banquet 
center" parking lot right at HWY 70 and 5th street.  Prizes, and trophies 
given away in 16 categories.  Oldies music, also featuring Blues Brothers 
performance, arriving in '74 Dodge Monaco Bluesmobile replica.  For more 
information call John Palmberger (314)-355-4864

We are welcoming any and all Oldsmobiles to participate.  Your car does not 
have to be show quality to show it.  By doing this, we should have a great 
representation of all of Oldsmobiles different models, makes and years.  You 
don't have to enter your Olds in the competition to show it.  but, if you 
wish to compete in one of the 16 categories, the entry fee is only $10.00.

Please let me know if you need more specific directions, and I will be glad 
to provide them.  If you would like information about lodgings, I will be 
more than happy to provide it.  It actually is being held in a huge parking 
lot that is shared by the St. Charles Inn, and across the street is a Ramada 
(the Ramada that has a huge Noahs Ark in front of it ).

ps.  I will have the '68 Cutlass Supreme there, and the '69 4-4-2.
  .
/ | \
| | |
|/|\|
\ | /
Jeff Zeilmann
1605 Elizabeth Ellen Ct.
St. Peters, MO 63376-6542

Home Phone #: (314) 939-4613
Daytime #: (314) 891-7915
SMTP:jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
'68 Cutlass Supreme, '69 Cutlass S Convertible (and the NEW '69 4-4-2)

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #812
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