To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #832


oldsmobile-digest     Thursday, September 4 1997     Volume 01 : Number 832



Toro for sale
Re: GTO Rear End
SSI
RE: <none>
Auto console and shifter wanted...
Re: Auto console and shifter wanted...
Re: GTO Rear End
<none>
Re: WARNING  (was: H*lp! H*lp! H*lp!)
70 D88 in LA
Re: Say what (was 403)
Re: Things Olds would rather forget
Re: 73 Carb
Re: Introduction and questions (long)
Mike's 88's Oil Pressure
Re: COUPE KING/PETER SLISKOVICH
Cruiser
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 ª827
Re: H*lp! H*lp! H*lp!
Question
Shirt??
Re: My 455 Cutlass project.. (Was: drag engine buildup advice needed)
Re: Several Subjects/Cust. Service Problems and Solutions-Long
Re: DEAD Battery!
SSI's and 71 442 Hood for sale
Wheelcovers for sale
Re: Brothers auto
350 or 455?
Drum brake drag
DIff ID's
Brothers auto
Carb Shop HEI conversion
Baldwin/Motion Oldsmobiles
The Olde Starter Heate Stroke Problem
55 88 Project
Re: starter problem
Re[2]: H*lp! H*lp! H*lp!
Re: HEI conversion
email addresses and wed addresses (fwd)
UNBOUNCE: DEAD Battery!
Re: GTO rear end
Re: 73 Carb
Vista Cruiser parts
Re: My 455 Cutlass project.. (Was: drag engine buildup advice needed)
Re: Rarest 88 and 98?
Re: I'm Back, and a New Olds Seen in Dodge
Re: Baldwin/Motion Oldsmobiles
Price/ advice
Re: Hot Steering Column
[none]
Re: 350 or 455?
Re: Price/ advice
Re: email addresses and wed addresses (fwd)
Re: Price/ advice
Re: I'm Back, and a New Olds Seen in Dodge
Re: 70 D88 in LA

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 10:47:18 -0500
From: david wyatt <Wyatt_David_L@LILLY.COM>
Subject: Toro for sale

Yes I know this is not the Toro list, but I figured a few of you might
be interested anyway.  1974 Toronado for $1250.00.  I would buy it if I
had the cash laying around, but I don't, yet.  It has been repainted,
small amount of rust showing at the bottom of right front fender,
elderly owner who purchased it from elderly second owners estate, tons
of paper work with car, first owner appears to be a well to do Terre
Haute businees owner, 79,000 miles showing.  Starts and runs nice, vinyl
seats, carpet is stained, A/C fan will not run on high setting, exhaust
leak on right side do-nut at manifold.  I need to sell the wifes Neon to
buy this boat.  If it is still around at that time I will buy it, if
not, oh well.  If one of you would grab it up before then, that would be
fine.  If I had taken it to Lansing I could have easily sold it for
$2500 - $3000.  Call the owner @ 765-832-2123  The car is located 12
miles north of Terre Haute, Indiana in Clinton, Indiana.

Somebody buy it before I catch Toro-fever,
Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 12:41:17 -0400 (EDT)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: GTO Rear End

In a message dated 97-09-03 08:11:30 EDT, you write:

<< Yep.  I get 5% too.  Assuming your speedo was correct before the rearend
 change you will be going about 68 when the speedo indicates 65 and 79
 when it indicates 75.

 Greg Pruett
 `72 Vista Cruiser
 `67 Cutlass Supreme
  >>
Greg actually thats backwards.......TIM

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 12:46:06 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: SSI

I got a stomper here I think

This past weekend I was cleaning a set of SSI getting them ready for sale
On the rims near the valve holes and on the trim ring side were some
letters and numbers  LIKE these

M       1        29       LZ
O


Can anyone h*lp decipher this code

Thank

Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 09:47:53 PDT
From: "Blitzstein,Kim" <Kim_Blitzstein@co.xerox.com>
Subject: RE: <none>

remove
- ----------
From: oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Cc: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: <none>
Date: Wednesday, September 03, 1997 12:00AM

remove

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Sep 97 12:20:27 -0600
From: "Stephen C. Chuck" <scc@teamquest.com>
Subject: Auto console and shifter wanted...

I have a 68 cutlass convertible and am looking for a automatic console and
shifter.


scc@teamquest.com  (work)
schuck@fia.net     (home)

THANKS!!!

Steve

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 13:27:00 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Auto console and shifter wanted...

Stephen C. Chuck wrote:
>
> I have a 68 cutlass convertible and am looking for a automatic console and
> shifter.
>
Seen one in Hemming's for $175.00 complete.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 13:45:59 -0400
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: Re: GTO Rear End

> << Yep.  I get 5% too.  Assuming your speedo was correct before the
rearend
>  change you will be going about 68 when the speedo indicates 65 and 79
>  when it indicates 75.
>
My 67 came with a ratio adapter - between trans and the cable -
are these still available ??????? The one I have was made by
Stewart-Warner.

The General

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 14:53:27 -0300
From: "Blitzstein,Kim" <Kim_Blitzstein@co.xerox.com>
Subject: <none>

unsubscribe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 14:11:36 -0400
From: "Terry & Tammy" <dawgs@conninc.com>
Subject: Re: WARNING  (was: H*lp! H*lp! H*lp!)

Joe thanks for the info....I have had to do this in other cars but not
an Olds. didn't know about the spring.

Terry

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 14:12:41 -0500
From: "David Brown (the Olds FAQ compiler)" <dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: 70 D88 in LA

> Ran accross a quite complete 1970 Delta 88 455, 2 bbl, E heads, 2 door, FRONT
> DISKS, green on green, AC, Clock, AM radio.  Engine seemed less grimey than
> usual pick-a-part fare.  Like it might even run!  Creased on right front.  In
> the Pick-A-Part on North Blinn in Wilmington near Los Angeles.

Whoever made this post, could you contact me directly? Thanks.

- --
David Brown     Mailto:dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds
- ------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 14:16:26 -0500
From: "David Brown (the Olds FAQ compiler)" <dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: Say what (was 403)

> Really? So, that 88 I saw with the 403 which was running in the 13's could do
> better by dropping 53 CID? Hmmmmm......

There was a '78 or '79 D88 on display by the REO Trans Museum that was
running in the mid 10's with a .040 over 403. I've got some pics, need
to get them developed.
- --
David Brown     Mailto:dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds
- ------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 12:15:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: R4C442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Things Olds would rather forget

Hey Bob!
    Don't forget your new title is "MajorDoma" (Dead on Michigan Avenue)!
                                                     Ron Forsee
                                                      65 (Was that noise your
beast!?) 442

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 19:21:43 GMT
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: 73 Carb

>> I also picked one up with number
>> 17057257
>
>Is that 17057257 suppose to have the "1" in front of it?

Yes, Rochester revised its Q-jet design around '75, and the revised carbs
have a "170xxxxx" number, rather than a "70xxxxx" number. Apparently,
though, the "70xxxxx" style carbs continued in production until the late
70's, probably in truck and non-GM automotive and industrial applications.

The main difference is the redesign of the bowl, and the change in the
length of the primary metering rods, which aren't interchangeable between
the 170 and 70 series carbs. Jets and secondaries still interchange, though.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 19:22:06 GMT
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Introduction and questions (long)

>  I've decided to step out from my 'lurking' spot on this list and
>introduce myself.  I've been subscribed to the list over a month ago after
<snip>
>muscle.  I recently have come across someone who is selling a 1969 442
>Convertible, which is the car of my dreams.  If I had to pick a year, and
<snip>
>  I was told off the bat that the car would most likely need two rear
>quarter panels ... the top really needs to be replaced...
>  And last for the time being, the guy said the car
>was most likely raced sometime during its life because certain conveniences
>were removed.  He gave the heater core, windshield wipers, and inner fender
>walls as three examples of this.  Is it difficult to replace these kinds of
>things with the car together?  Is this something I could learn to do ?

So the car needs quarters, a top, and an unspecified number of miscellaneous
pieces? How is the drivetrain? While you *could* restore this particular
car, it doesn't seem like a good candidate. Doing the quarters right will
cost a fortune. You don't want to make replacing a convertible top your
first major job on a car, so have that done professionally. With all the
minor things this 442 will need, you're going to need a parts car to donate
them. Figure on at least an additional $3000-$5000 above the purchase price
to make this car solid and whole (not including a decent paint job), and
probably 6 months if you really get into this project full time.

If this is going to be your first project, and you don't have unlimited
funds and time, then I suggest you start with a *complete* car that you
could register and drive in its current condition, even if it is rough; that
way you can judge what needs replacing. If you're not familiar with the car,
you might have a hard time judging what needs to be replaced. Don't be lured
in by a low purchase price (with a good drivetrain, I can't imagine that 442
being worth more than $1000-$1500); the little thing (and big things like
quarters, top and paint) can really add up. Better to start with a complete
$5000 car that you could work on gradually; at least you could drive it
immediately, rather than spending the same amount on a car and having to
wait a year to drive it (never mind the time and effort to just get it on
the road; it's easy to lose enthusiasm over that length of time).
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 19:22:22 GMT
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Mike's 88's Oil Pressure

>OL>>>Also I have been noticing that sometimes my oil pressure gauge will
>OL>>>flutter when the engine is warmed up, is this something that I should
>OL>>>look into seriously?  The flutter is maybe +/- 1 PSI, and the lowest PSI
>OL>>>I've seen the pump put out (which was at idle) was 7 as per the service
>OL>>>manual.
>
>OL>How many miles on it? How does that hot idle PSI compare to the PSI when
>OL>cold? Your bearings may be OK for now, but they're not going to be getting
>OL>any better. Just let the oil pressure pump everything up before you rev the
>OL>motor above an idle; I killed a couple rod bearings on my old 403 by not
>OL>doing so.
>
>It really depends, the PSI for the idle fluctuates from around 7 psi up
>to 20 when hot, and when cold, I've seen it be near 50..  The engine has
>83k on it (350) and I've put 22k of that on in 2 years.  The flutter
>comes and goes.  The cold idle however, when I start it up is 40 PSI,
>sometimes I've seen it 45-50.  it'll be 50 PSI on the road until it
>warms up and then it'll hover around 37-45 PSI.

The bearing clearances normally open up a bit when the engine warms up; my
rebuilt 403 puts out ~55psi at high idle when dead cold (pressure at which
the relief valve kicks in, and thus the max pressure at any temp), but will
drop down to 35-45psi when warmed up. When it gets real hot, it might drop
to 25psi at a low idle.

Your engine's bearings are worn, and since a little more leaks from each
successive bearing, by the time it gets to the oil pressure sender, the
pressure has gotten really low. The front rod bearings are at the end of the
line, and are usually the first to be starved. Your rear bearings are
probably seeing the pressure that the oil pump is putting out when it's
cold, even when the engine heats up. If you've got 35-45psi going down the
when warm, though, you're all set; any fluctuation in the pressure might
simply be due to variations in the engine rpms (I see this too), or to a
sticky pressure relief valve letting the pressure build up a bit before it's
triggered, then releasing, then re-engaging, sticking, releasing, etc.

>Mike Jones
>'78 Delta 88 2dr.
>
>btw, on your dual exhaust, you use dual catalytic converters?

Ummmm....   there didn't happen to be one on my exhaust system before it
went into the shop, and the muffler guys didn't add one, and currently RI
doesn't have a visual inspection, or emissions testing (hey, there's less
people in this whole state than there are in Brooklyn!), and I didn't happen
to ask them to install a pair, nor would the EPA require them to replace a
missing one, and... [continue piling on rationalizations]
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 16:17:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: C191145cal@aol.com
Subject: Re: COUPE KING/PETER SLISKOVICH

Hey I saw you mentioned Memmer.  Who are they? What types of parts do they
sell?  Do you have an address or phone number handy?
Thanks Jim  NY

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 15:32:51 -0500 (CDT)
From: bryceman@442.com
Subject: Cruiser

I got the pictures of my new '65 Vista Cruiser posted today in the
Brycemobiles section. Check it out and let me know what you think.
BTW I have been working on all of the backlogged Owners Registry entries so
please bear with me. Hope to have some of them in by tomorrow. Thanks.

Life, Liberty and the Pursuit of Oldsmobiles!
'66 Dynamic 88 B07 Apprehender
'65 442 Post Coupe
'65 Vista Cruiser
'72 H/O Pace Car Replica
Email: bryceman@442.com  URL: www.442.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 16:33:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: BobH592058@aol.com
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 ª827

In a message dated 97-09-01 02:03:06 EDT, you write:

<< Yeah, but you still have to walk three miles to the nearest parts store
 and hope that they're open, and have a HEI module. :-)>>

You'll have to walk regardless of which system fails so that's irrelevant.
 If you can't find an HEI module in _any_ parts outlet, you're in the wrong
place.  With a gazillion installed HEI's they're missing a sales market of
some size - like most GM engines built for about 20 years!

 <<I've heard several stories of HEI modules quiting on people too.>>

But of course, anything can fail.  But I am yet to be convinced that an
aftermarket ignition conversion unit has anywhere near the development and
testing of a GM system that has been used for a couple of decades in millions
of cars.  Especially when the HEI is an improvement providing much better
spark characteristics, voltage, etc.  All the Pertonix unit seems to do is
replace your points.   Big deal.

So how much do you drive your car each year?  Before unleaded fuel, which
keeps plugs cleaner that leaded, the recommended tune up was every 10,000
miles. So one could argue the points must degrade further before anything
runs amuck.  Which means they should last somewhat longer.  Is simply
eliminating the points _really_ gaining anything? I'm talking about a real
gain in performance, fuel mileage?

<< Either way,  it wouldnt hurt to keep a spare Pertronix's module or an HEI
in the
 glovebox.>>

Absolutely, I carry a module, pickup coil and ignition coil with me.  But the
last time I checked an HEI module is ~$15.  And another Pertronix unit
costs.......? As I recall, at least a big fraction of a $100 bill (with or
without Ben Franklin's face centered on it.)

Bob Handren
OCA/OCFª 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 16:34:31 -0700
From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Subject: Re: H*lp! H*lp! H*lp!

Chris Sparks wrote:

> I have tried switching the wiring around, thinking I had a bad switch,
> to no avail.  I am panicing now since I have an open car that anyone
> can get in to.  We won't even mention rain!
>
> Is there anyone out there who can help me here.  I am desperate.

Other than checking the wiring and connection, as already suggested, the
other possible cause is a cruddy commutator in the motor.  That's the
little contact ring that the brushes ride on.  Typical symptom is random
"sticking".  Try bonking the motor with a hammer as you push the switch.
If the window goes up, that's your problem.  They can sometimes be
resurected by taking the motor apart and cleaning the commutator with
contact cleaner and carefully using a scribe to clean out the gaps
between it's segments.  You may also be able to reverse the brushes to
get a little more life out of them.  Make sure you seal the motor back
up to keep water out.

    66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike     http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/torolist.html


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 13:44:27 -0700
From: "Chris Hughes" <chughes3@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Question

What is the normal engine operating temperature for a 1968 Olds Cutlass S
Convertible.  The engine is a 350 w/o air conditioning.

Regards,
Chris

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 17:41:00 -0300
From: turley@symplex.com (Mike Turley)
Subject: Shirt??

Mark,

Hey, I meant to ask in Lansing -- Can I get a Street Rockets T-shirt?

I'm gonna take the 442 to a small show in Plymouth on Sunday and
would actually like to have one of the shirts by then.

It's not a big deal, but if this is possible let me know.
I'd have no problem swinging by to pay for one and pick it up.

Thanks Mark,
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 16:43:46 -0400
From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Subject: Re: My 455 Cutlass project.. (Was: drag engine buildup advice needed)

CRuper1@aol.com wrote:
>
> Cost should be minimal, $300 for good, clean running 455, plus parts and
> labor, all done by myself.  With a little bit of hunting, etc., I bet I can
> put the motor together for $1000, or so, using myself as the labor (I sure
> ain't payin' someone else to have fun building my motor!!!).

Should someone that has ~rarely~ ever messed with an engine internally
build their own engine? I ask this because I would like to attempt to
build my drag motor myself over the winter to help with costs. I can get
a '72 455 block for $0, the only costs I would have would be the actual
performance parts and machine work that I buy. Again I am looking for a
mid to low 12 sec motor.
 Any input from some racers
> that are on the list?  I know there are some guys on the list that like to
> hit the strip.


I race every weekend. First part of the year in the 93 Z/28...now in my
95 Impala SS. What I notice racing is that it does not really matter
what car, motor, year, etc, etc car you have..it is the driver skill and
intuition that wins most races. I get a kick out of occasionally beating
a 94+ Mustang GT, late 80's Iroc's...what helps me beat them is reaction
time and consistent launches with low 60ft's. Without it I lose every
time. I have even managed a few 1.9x 60fts with my 4200+ car. I have
seen many overkill cars runs terrible times as you have stated. The
fastest street car we have around here is a 95 Mitsubishi Eclipse...11.5
@ 118...with the "simple" things...bigger turbo, bigger intercooler,
reprogrammed ECM and 4.5" exhaust.  I see cars "built" to drag with
slicks, 4 link, roll cage, big block, and some overkill items run a few
tenths slower than the Eclipse.

- --

********
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio
Quality Engineer - TRW Automotive Group - Valve Division
1995 DCM Impala SS.....my dream car come true
1980 Olds 4-4-2 W-30.....show car..one of 346 produced
1975 Hurst/Olds W-25.....restoration project
1985 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4X4......work truck

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 17:07:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: Oldsparts@aol.com
Subject: Re: Several Subjects/Cust. Service Problems and Solutions-Long

WOW-What the heck is this?

>So what do you call it when you buy 455 frame mounts for $40.00 and sell
them

>for

>$275.00.  I know making a profit is priority, but thats totally insane
since

>one can use 350 frame mounts with 350 motor mounts on a 455 and achieve the

>same results.  I looked at your catalog, a personally, I rather deal with

>Mike Fusick or

>Ron Memmer.   Boy the great world of take your arm and left leg for a part

>thats still very easy to come by.



>My .02 cents worth,

>W MACHINES

>72 442 W-30

I NEVER REALIZED WHAT VILLAINS WE ARE!   In the first place, we have never
sold a set of 455 frame mounts for anywhere close to $275.  If you have a
receipt for this transaction, I'd love to see it.  You were standing right
next to me when I purchased a set of these for $40 in Lansing.  You
immediately looked at me and started running your mouth about Brothers
Automotive selling these for $275.  I suspect you were quoted 2 for $75!  You
obviously were mistaken.  I was just as stunned by this allegation and
embarrassed for you then as I am now.   Your willingness to  slam us struck
me as amusing-but not as amusing as a few minutes later when, at another
vendors space you saw me writing a check to another of my old friends and
realized I was Brothers Automotive!  Your uninvited commentary and subsequent
sheepish apology were accepted by me without comment.  I was half expecting
you to sit down to put your other foot in your mouth.....    No one here
'took' your left arm or your left leg for anything.

It's not quite true that "one can use 350 frame mounts with 350 motor mounts
on a 455 and achieve the same results."  How many cars have you restored?
 Think the Oldsmobile power train engineers would have made these special
parts if they were unnecessary?  The use of 350 frame pads and mounts results
in the engine sitting too low and clearance problems with the fan (among
other things) on AC applications.  Those of us who insist on doing things
right don't normally throw the factory engineering out the window in an
effort to get on the road.  How is  the engine in your  W-30 sitting?  Why
are you looking for these parts if you can use the 350 items?  Just curious.


I did purchase 3 sets of these in Lansing at prices ranging from $30-80 per
pair.  We want to reproduce these and needed them for samples.  We hope to
have them come spring for about $49 pair retail.

New Subject-Customer Service Problems And Solutions

M-Rothe wrote:
>OK, what's with all this vendor "bashing"?  Everyone has their opinion

>on service and sometimes even the best places get behind.  I think what

>the COUPE KING was experiencing rang harmonous to a lot of other

>experiences with Brother's Automotive. (Steve, if you're reading this,

>feel free to respond.  And try not to take it personally.)

It is true that this season has presented more than it's share of
 difficulties.  Each year we try to do more and do it better.  This season
was beyond our expectations as far as sales growth.  We also had some other
fairly significant challanges in dealing with the size and scope of the 100th
anniversary of Oldsmobile, and the UPS strike did little to simplify matters.

In 1984 we were one of the first in our industry to use a computer.  Our
first was a Mac 128K machine that we upgraded to a then  awesome 512K.  In
those days that was the next best thing to a Cray supercomputer.  These days
we are using much more powerful Macs but the software we are using is
basically the same as in 1984.  It was a very elegant solution then but is
totally inadequate today.   Years ago your could send a customer his parts a
week after he ordered.  He (or she) would receive them 2 weeks after he
ordered.  Then the customer would call you up and thank you for helping to
solve their problem.

Several months ago I ordered a computer at 11:05 PM on a SUNDAY NIGHT.  The
company we got it from maintains a warehouse at the same airport one of the
express delivery companies is based out of.   We received the machine the
NEXT morning-before 10:30 AM!  My point here is we live in a here and now
society.   When you pay your money, you have every right to expect to see the
show.  I am as bad as the next guy when I pay for a product and don't receive
it in a timely fashion.

We are about to begin a total re-programming of our computer systems to
enhance customer service and hopefully, customer satisfaction.  When we only
had 880 part numbers they were a lot easier to keep track of then it is now.
 We hope to have totally automated purchasing, inventory control, billing,
inventory history etc. when we are through.  This should help minimize the
bottle necks and back orders to a manageable level.

 We deal with hundreds of tiny, sometimes backyard, manufacturers.  Many of
these suppliers make only one item for us.  Take for example Karl Sarpolis.
 A very nice, pleasant and meticulous individual. He makes our exhaust
manifold heat shroud for the 69-72 dual exhaust cars.  Recently his dad
passed away.  Shortly thereafter his mom had a stroke.  His sister is an inval
id.  Karl's product is awsome-it's also handmade.  There is no way I'm going
to call Karl and lean on him about delivery times given his current
situation.  With literally hundreds of suppliers like Karl, these types of
situation are always going to come up-but we hope with the new software
solutions things will run smoother and customer service and order response
time will improve.

I have always hated those "Bitchin' Betty" phone systems.  On the rare
occasions when I do call on Year One I am always irritated by the
computerized phone system.  We want to provide a level of experienced
personalized service unequaled by the multi line guys.  We dont sell Ch**Y
parts,  (Thats a foreign car here), and we don't want to.   We do want to be
the best supplier of Cutlass/442 parts on the planet.  We want to reinvest
your Olds part dollars into making more Olds parts.  We also want you to be
able to speak with someone who has installed and used the items you are
purchasing-not someone who drive a "cuda" to work.

This year sales are at an all time high.  Customer satisfaction, in terms of
delivery times, is probably at an all time low.  The man we are working with
on this computer thing is one of the brightest minds in his business.  He has
been here and has seen our operation and how we operate.  He is somewhat
familiar with our industry in general and I believe he can help tremendously
 in these areas.

I am afraid that the increase in volume comes with an increase in overhead
and labor costs and accordingly prices will probably rise a little for  1998.
 I suspect that if delivery times improve and we continue to sell and ship
only the very best quality items available, the price increases should be of
little consequence to most.

Please feel free to call, write or e-mail us with your thoughts on these
subjects.  Your constructive criticism is welcome.  If, however,  your nose
is out of joint-please call me directly-and I'll pay for the call.

Sincerely For Oldsmobiles,
Steven Kenny

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 09:24:01 +0000
From: "Rick" <richardc@equitrac.com>
Subject: Re: DEAD Battery!

I had a simular problem and found out that it had something to do
with my heater blower.I have no  heat in the car but the blower is
hooked up. I also took the approach of buying the one wire alternator
from Jegs which has worked great for about 2 years now. One word of
caution. With the 1 wite alternator make sure you dont use it to
continuously charge the battery. The Regulators will shit the bed...I
also had my starter drain the battery before but that was on a F**D
so I just junked the car..Wy fix it.

Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 17:13:14 -0400
From: Al Barlow <iamoz@ime.net>
Subject: SSI's and 71 442 Hood for sale

I have a set of (5) SSI's with the center caps in very good condition that
I will sell for $200 or BO and an excellent 1971 442 hood with the louvers
in excellent shape at BO plus you pay the shipping on either.

Please E-Mail me directly on the above at: iamoz@ime.net

Al Barlow
1971 Olds 442 Convertible
1972 Olds Cutlass Supreme Convertible (parts car)
Thomaston, Maine

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 17:13:47 -0400
From: Al Barlow <iamoz@ime.net>
Subject: Wheelcovers for sale

There is a person here in Rockland, Maine that has thousands and thousands
of wheel covers from 1960 on. If anyone needs wheelcovers and they want to
save the toll call I will call and get the price and E-Mail you back. If
you want to call or write direct here is the address:
Scale House, Inc.
PO Box 425 - 781 Main Street
Rockland, Maine  04841
(207) 594-2062

Also, I have a set of (5) SSI's with the center caps in very good condition
that I will sell for $200 or BO and an excellent 1971 442 hood with the
louvers in excellent shape at BO plus you pay the shipping on either.

Please E-Mail me directly on the above at: iamoz@ime.net

Al Barlow
1971 Olds 442 Convertible
1972 Olds Cutlass Supreme Convertible (parts car)
Thomaston, Maine

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 18:22:53 -0400 (EDT)
From: DEOVIVERE@aol.com
Subject: Re: Brothers auto

Ditto on Brother's Automotive -

I've been waiting for a month now for an exhaust system that was promised
within 7-10 days.  Seeing your message on the List has confirmed a growing
suspicion that something screwy was going on.  I ALWAYS get prompt service
from Year One and Fusic.  I think I'm going to start calling Brothers.  This
kind of bad publicity on the List has got to hurt business for them.  Maybe
that will serve as motivation to better serve their customers.

Tom Simmons
71 SX

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 18:47:54 -0400
From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Subject: 350 or 455?

Ok, again thanks to all that have answered my questions on the drag engine
buildup..there is so much knowledge here! Now I have 3 decent engines to
pick from to use. 1972 Toro 455..this has J heads so it might be a
replacement motor...haven't ran the numbers. Next I have a '72 350 with 7a
heads. Other is a '69 350/2bbl with ª5 heads. So which is the stronger/
best engine to use as a starting point? I would like a 455, but if I can
get decent performance out of a 350 I wouldn't mind. So far everyone has
convinced me to stick with an Olds powered Olds...but the 502, or the ZZ4
chevy is tempting :-) Thanks!
____________________________________________
Jason Labay - Quality Engineer - TRW Automotive Group
z28cfi@gwis.com  Akron, OH
95 DCM Impala SS.....don't get much better than this
80 Olds 442 W-30.......show car
75 Hurst/Olds W-25...restoration project
85 S-10 Blazer 4x4.......work truck

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 20:06:26 -0400 (EDT)
From: BobH592058@aol.com
Subject: Drum brake drag

<<If you do wish to race seriously, then the drum brakes are the way
to go. You can adjust them real high - no drag on shoes - and pick up a few
tenths.>>

A few _tenths_!?  Boy, that must be some drag!  The slight drag from
_properly_ adjusted and round drum brakes (as in for street use) won't cost
tenths.  A warped disc brake rotor (real common in the early 80's GM
production) would cause a similar parasitic drag and drop in ET.  But not
tenths, probably more like hundreths.  If you are in NHRA stock class, it can
make a big difference.  If you are running brackets, as long as the car is
consistant it wouldn't usually matter - unless a few hundreths puts you out
if the big money ET bracket.

Bob Handren
OCA/OCFª 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 20:07:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: BobH592058@aol.com
Subject: DIff ID's

<<The Year One ?? catalog had a nifty drawing of the different GM diffs & how
to
ID them. Chevy has a gear-depression in the cover, and crinkles between each
pair of cover bolts. Easy outside ID. Can't find that info right now, but
feeble memory says that o-type [Olds] has parallel ribs, and P-type has a
single rib??>>

"P" has converging ribs (two), "B" has single rib.  Many "P" and "B" parts
interchange but the "P" is a bunch stronger.  I believe "B" gear sets have a
smaller pinion shaft spline size and count and thus are also weaker.

FWIW "P" rears were the ones used in both 66 and 67 W-30's, even _after_ the
"O" came out.  So somebody considered them stronger.

Bob Handren
OCA/OCFª 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 20:07:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: BobH592058@aol.com
Subject: Brothers auto

<<Brothers auto

CarrDuff@aol.com wrote:
>
>   Boy I hope their not on this list, I may never get my parts now !!!!!!!

Steve does read this list.  So the answer is yes.

Chris Sparks>>

I hoped the reaction would be to kick some butt and get customers' calls
returned with legitimate information on availability and time-to-delivery.
 Instead I interpreted the response posted here to say that since they work
hard but don't have enough people the customer should be willing to wait
another 3 months.

I run a small business too.  My customers are a lot more receptive to being
told of up front delays and the reasons than being ignored.

Mike Rothe's response hit the nail on the head!

<<The comment regarding  "we don't need the business" is actually a true
statment.  >>

Ya know, I hate to say it but, when Olds was ª3, I had the impression they
were saying the same thing.

Dangerous if you want to stay in business.

Just _my_ .02 worth.

Bob Handren
OCA/OCFª 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 20:07:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: BobH592058@aol.com
Subject: Carb Shop HEI conversion

<<The Crane adjustable vacuum advance kit includes a plate that limits the
amount of vacuum advance that the cannister can add. >>

IMHO, for the money they charged for that unit, it should have come with the
adjustable unit.  When I can buy a completely rebuilt HEI for ~$90 at the
local parts house, where is the value in the Carb Shop unit?  Sounds like
they left the "stock" can, which has way too much advance for a non-smog
controlled engine.

<<If the Carb Shop did not provide a limiter plate (and if they don't offer
to
send you one when you call to ask about the tuneability of their HEI
units...), and you don't want to spring the $22 for a whole Crane kit, you
can probably make one from a small sheet of heavy-guage steel, or even a
washer. Basically, it mounts under one of the screws holding down the vacuum
advance unit, and forms a kind of "stop" to limit the travel of the rod that
extends from the vacuum advance cannister.>>

Hey, much better than brazing the slot smaller, and a lot less work.  Much
better idea.  Ya learn something new every day on this list.

Thanks Dr. Bob!

Bob Handren
OCA/OCFª 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 20:08:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: BobH592058@aol.com
Subject: Baldwin/Motion Oldsmobiles

Bob Anderson, lives in Tampa (as previously posted) and is a member of the
Olds Club of Florida.  He brought his 69 H/O "Commotion" Olds to our show
last April.  It is exactly as he bought it many years ago, right down to the
now hard as rock slicks. A real historical item IMHO.

He told me he bought it because of it's history with Motion.  If you would
like to contact him let me know and I'll give you the info.

That's one of 'em anyway.

Bob Handren
OCA/OCFª 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 20:09:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: BobH592058@aol.com
Subject: The Olde Starter Heate Stroke Problem

<<I have no idea why a flex-fan would allow the current starter to turn the
car over when it's hot; perhaps it was just that much rotating mass that it
took to break the camel's back?>>

Although definitely noisier, I still prefer the flex fan over the viscous
controller.  My engines just seem run cooler more consistantly with 'em.

One of the reasons _may_ be that the flex fan, at non-racing speeds, is
always moving air across the radiator and engine.  Might have provided just
enough cooling to improve the situation.

I've never had a quality flex fan fail or sefl-destruct.  Off course, the day
the harmonic balancer blew in the lights, all that green fiberglass blowing
back under hood and out onto the windshield was sure a sight. :-0   That was
many moons ago and I haven't seen any fiberglas fans lately.

Also, can't say enough for a really big battery.  Lots of cranking amps.

Bob Handren
OCA/OCFª 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 20:10:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: BobH592058@aol.com
Subject: 55 88 Project

Gary Anderson wrote:


<<MY FIRST QUESTION - Do you think the rear-end can handle this engine??
This isn't intended to be a drag car, but you know damn well I will get on it
every
chance I get. >>


Gee Gary, we have a bunch of things in common.  My first car was a 56 88 with
three-on-the-tree.  When it departed me to be replaced by a 65 442 it had a
394 with J-2 carbs on an Offy manifold, Cadillac transmission (which didn't
break every 6 months) Traction Masters, Air Lifts, etc. I also spent a short
time at LLNL so know the Pleasanton area.  Are you a member of the NorCal
Chapter?

The 55 has, I presume, the same rear as the 56.  I broke axels like
clockwork, the Traction Masters helped but they still broke.  A big clue
might be that the 57-64 (I think) rears are still used.  One can still buy
gear sets for 'em.  That says to me they are a bunch stronger.  The 57 up
rears have been used in some pretty powerful and heavy drag cars way back
when.

Love the car you described!  Real memories.

Bob Handren
OCA/OCFª 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 20:18:09 -0400
From: "TIM AND DAWN SPEEGLE" <olds4u@valkyrie.net>
Subject: Re: starter problem

regarding your srarter problem, i had same thing on my 70 ,went to an parts
store and they sold me a heavy duty starter and problem gone, not the high
tourqe , they dont help , look into a heavy duty.   tim s

- ----------
> From: Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@themall.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: starter problem
> Date: Tuesday, September 02, 1997 9:57 PM
>
> >When I bought my 72 cutlass it had a flex fan on the motor. The previous
> >owner said he put it on because he had trouble starting the car after he
> >drove it for a while. It would start fine after being driven. I replaced
> >the flex fan with the original. Now I am having starting the car after
> >driving it for half hour or so. Let it cool for 30 to 45 mins it will
> >spin rite over. Previous owner said he put new starter on just before I
> >bought it. Anyone ever had the same problem? Anyone offer a solution?
> >
> >Thanks in advance
> >Jim Helle
>
> If you hadn't said that it had a new starter I would say to check the
rear
> bushing in the starter.  I have seen quite a few cars where it is scored
> and causes just the problem you described.  I once replaced a battery and
> cables at a service center's reccomendation when this was the real
problem.
>
>
>
> Lloyd Ferguson
> ferguson@themall.net
> (818) 241-9350
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Sep 97 20:14:48 -0500
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re[2]: H*lp! H*lp! H*lp!

66 Toro
The /\   /\ and Mike wrote:

..Try bonking the motor with a hammer as you push the switch...

     Yeah, but given Chris' apparent frantic state, you'd better
     specify _lightly_ bonking the motor...  ;-)

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 20:48:51 -0400 (EDT)
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: HEI conversion

In a message dated 97-09-03 02:11:38 EDT, you write:

<< Hi Todd,
 I too have installed electronic ignition and noticed a big improvement in
performance! I just wanted to remind you to also increase the sparkplug
electrode gap. When GM introduced electronic ignition the spark gap was
increased from .035" to .055"-.060". The larger gap means more voltage is
needed to jump this gap,producing a larger spark and improved combustion. I
noticed an immediate improvement in idle quality,throttle response and slight
gas milage increase.
 If you didn`t already know this, hope it helps.
 My $.02
 Don Smith
 OCAª 17788 >>
You need to change the spark plugs themselves. The stock application calls
for
R44's or  R45's. You need to change to R46SX's AC delcos or NGK 5670-6's/ The
gap on the R46SX's is .080 and .060 for performance and the NGKS are .040.
 Both plugs work well with HEI type ignitions including also the Uni-light
and MSD ignitions.

W MACHINES
72 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 21:51:11 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: email addresses and wed addresses (fwd)

Forwarding something sent to me in error...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 19:32:21 -0700
From: LARRY POLESNAK <ham@fan.net>
Subject: email addresses and wed addresses

Hi everyone ,thank you for taking the time to read this. I was looking
for the email addresses and web addresses for the following company's..
Which company would be the best to deal with ...
           Fusick's
           Brother's
           Menner's
                              Thanks Larry Polesnak
1962 Starfire
1983 Regency Coupe
1989 Plymouth Voyager

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 21:56:27 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: DEAD Battery!

Forwarding a bouncer...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:"Rick" <richardc@equitrac.com>
Date:Tue, 2 Sep 1997 09:24:01 +0000
Subject: Re: DEAD Battery!

I had a simular problem and found out that it had something to do
with my heater blower.I have no  heat in the car but the blower is
hooked up. I also took the approach of buying the one wire alternator
from Jegs which has worked great for about 2 years now. One word of
caution. With the 1 wite alternator make sure you dont use it to
continuously charge the battery. The Regulators will shit the bed...I
also had my starter drain the battery before but that was on a F**D
so I just junked the car..Wy fix it.

Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 20:07:09 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: GTO rear end

 Thanks to all for confirmation that the speedo will read higher (or lower,
if I go by Greg's resonse).
After going through the mental gyrations: drive shaft turns 3.23 times,
wheel turns once, therefore faster, speedo attached to tranny, so reads same
speed etc, etc, etc., I think I finally have it figured out. No math genius
here.
No, there was no GTO attached when I got the third member.

Mick Gillespie, Columbus, Indiana
69 Cutlass S convertible
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

- -----Original Message-----
From: Daniel Dale <daleds@okra.millsaps.edu>
To: mgillespie@sprynet.com <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Date: Wednesday, September 03, 1997 1:00 PM
Subject: GTO rear end



>was there a car attached to that rear end when you got it???
>thanks
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 21:40:38 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: 73 Carb

Thanks Bob and everyone else for your assistance

Robert Schinkel

- ----------
> From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 73 Carb
> Date: Wednesday, September 03, 1997 3:21 PM
>
> >> I also picked one up with number
> >> 17057257
> >
> >Is that 17057257 suppose to have the "1" in front of it?
>
> Yes, Rochester revised its Q-jet design around '75, and the revised carbs
> have a "170xxxxx" number, rather than a "70xxxxx" number. Apparently,
> though, the "70xxxxx" style carbs continued in production until the late
> 70's, probably in truck and non-GM automotive and industrial
applications.
>
> The main difference is the redesign of the bowl, and the change in the
> length of the primary metering rods, which aren't interchangeable between
> the 170 and 70 series carbs. Jets and secondaries still interchange,
though.
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 15:43:00 -1000 (HST)
From: Brendan Casey <casey@uhhepi.phys.hawaii.edu>
Subject: Vista Cruiser parts

I just got a 1965 Vista Cruiser.  It needs a new left front hub.  Do you
know where I can find one or what other cars have compatible parts?

Brendan Casey
Honolulu, HI

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 21:51:34 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: My 455 Cutlass project.. (Was: drag engine buildup advice needed)

- ----------
> From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: My 455 Cutlass project.. (Was: drag engine buildup advice
needed)
> Date: Wednesday, September 03, 1997 4:43 PM
>
> CRuper1@aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
>
> Should someone that has ~rarely~ ever messed with an engine internally
> build their own engine? I ask this because I would like to attempt to
> build my drag motor myself over the winter to help with costs. I can get
> a '72 455 block for $0, the only costs I would have would be the actual
> performance parts and machine work that I buy. Again I am looking for a
> mid to low 12 sec motor.
>

Jason

Ya I have to say build it yourself.  Remember your not actually building
the motor your just following recomendations of probably Joe Mondello and
assembling your motor.  If you own a torque wrench and know how it works
you can assemble a motor.

Just send the pieces that need machining to your local performance shop and
they will even put your pistons and crank assembly together.

You then take you parts and assemble your engine following the instuctions
perfectly.  Its that simple.

Don't be afraid to try it yourself.  Remember for anyone there is a first
time.  And if you do it and then race your car think how proud you will be
when you tell the other guy who BUILT your motor.

If you need any info this list is an excellent place to get help and you
always could call Joe himself he has always helped me with my problems

Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 09:00:48 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: Rarest 88 and 98?

 Thomas,

How about 8278 1957 98 Starfire convertibles & 7128 Super 88 convertibles.
There were only 4002 super 88 2-dr sedans, 5767 88 4-dr hdt station wagons,
5052 88 4-dr station wagons, 6423 88 convertibles, & 3830 88 4-dr Holiday
sdns.

1954 saw 6800 98 convertibles & 6452 Super 88 convertibles.

1953 had 7521 98 convertibles & 458 Fiesta convertibles.

1952 included 3544 98 convertibles, 5162 Super 88 convertibles, 2050 Super
88 club coupes, & 6402 88 2-dr sedans.

1951 claimed 4468 98 convertibles & 3844 super 88 convertibles & 7328 88
club coupes.

1950 presented 3925 98 convertibles, 8263 98 Holiday Coupes, 1778 98 4-dr
Town Sedans, 2382 88 convertibles, 368 76 station wagons, 973 76
convertibles, 538 76 Holiday Coupes, & 3364 2-dr club coupes.

1950 conjured up 3006 98 convertibles, 1355 88 station wagons, & 1545 76
station wagons.

All-in all, there are many Oldsmobiles w/lower production than the 1957 98
convertible.  A solid bodied, complete one sold near my house last year for
$6000.  It was non running, but included a nice running 98 4-door hardtop
w/working AC.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama






>I am curious, what is the rarest 88 and the rarest 98?
>
>I am familiar with a very few 76 88 Holiday coupes, some 77-79 (?) Pace
>Cars, but what is the rarest?
>
>What is the rarest 98?  I am starting to suspect the 1957 Starfire Coupe
>98 Convertible
>
>I can't seem to find one.  I did not get to go to Lansing, wish I could
>have, did anyone see one there?
>
>Just curious!
>
>I thought I read the production of the Starfire 98 in 1957 was 1200ish,
>and all had J-2 Rockets.
>
>Thomas Martin
>1985 Cutlass Supreme 350
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 09:04:10 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: I'm Back, and a New Olds Seen in Dodge

 Oh yah!  I almost forgot about old Tim.  It is almost nice to have you back
Mr. Churchill.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama




>
>Hi All, I'm back from two weeks on vacation.  The weather was nice on
>Cape Cod, except for the hurri-- I mean, "tropical depression", that
>blew in one day...  I hope everyone had fun at Lansing!
>
>
>
>
>Tim ('Bama Bill, Didja Miss Me?) Churchill

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 22:05:52 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: Baldwin/Motion Oldsmobiles

Hey Bob

Ask the other Bob if he still has my old Rallye 350
I'm just curious

Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com

- ----------
> From: BobH592058@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Baldwin/Motion Oldsmobiles
> Date: Wednesday, September 03, 1997 8:08 PM
>
> Bob Anderson, lives in Tampa (as previously posted) and is a member of
the
>
>
> Bob Handren
> OCA/OCFª 7728
> '67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
> Oviedo, FL
>
> Handren Associates, Inc.
> FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
> Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
> (407)365-6385
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 22:11:14 -0700
From: "J. Michael Wolfe" <boogah@en.com>
Subject: Price/ advice

I am looking at a 1972 Cutlass Supreme that is all original including
the paint.  It has 60,000 miles and has never seen winter.  It has the
350 2V engine, air conditioning (needs charged but the clutch engages)
bucket seats, interior is very good condition, engine compartment very
clean, well maintained with all receipts for work performed. Rides like
a charm. The owner is asking 5500 and I offered 4800.  Is 4800 a fair
price for the vehicle? Please advise.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 21:16:34 -0500
From: "SUSAN JONES" <POLLJONES@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Hot Steering Column

Greg,  while I was driving back to Milwaulee last Sunday with my '66 that I
decided I will start to restore, I too noticed that sensation of heat
coming from beneath the dash and a Hotter than H_ _ _  steering column.
I've never noticed this before, but after reading your message about this
problem I thought that this was quite a coincidence.  I popped the hood at
a rest area along I-94.  Low and behold I noticed that the rubber gromet
that fits around the speedometer cable was hanging loose away from the 1"
diameter hole in the firewall.  I poked it back in place snuggly with a
screw driver and took off again down the highway.  After I began driving
for some time I noticed that there was a considerable improvement in the
amount of heat that was coming into the interior of the car and the
sterring column was a lot cooler than before.  It made sense to me that
this was the major cause of my problem, if there was a gaping hole about
the size of a half dollar letting heat from that 425 in behind the dash.
You might want to check to see if this gromet is there and doing its job.
- ----------
> From: Greg Kalkhoff <gkalkhof@execpc.com>
> To: toro@armchair.mb.ca; oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Cc: dk0009@epfl2.epflbalto.org
> Subject: Hot Steering Column
> Date: Wednesday, August 27, 1997 11:15 AM
>
> All,
>
> The Sparkmobile (66 Toro) ran great on it's 800 mile journey last week.
However, there
> was one thing that concerned me.
>
> After driving for about 3 hours, I noticed that my legs and belly were
getting warm.
>
> I felt the steering column from the steering wheel to the dash and it was
hot! So, hot
> you could hardly touch it. I believe you could fry the perverbial egg on
it.
>
> Evidently, the new exhaust on the car is routed a bit closer to the
steering shaft. After
> a few hours of highway speeds, the steering shafts acts like a heat sink.
The heat gets
> transferred all the way to the steering wheel! Not to mention the other
way towards the
> steering box. Not good in my estimation.
>
> Whats the best fix for this? Would it be better to wrap the exhaust
manifold pipe with a
> type of asbestos heat tape or make some type of heat shroud/deflector
there?
>
> Needless to say, it was quite cool last week. I fear that if I run those
kind of
> distances next year when it's in the 90's, I may melt the wires in the
column.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sparky
>
> --
> Greg Kalkhoff                                        See the Sparkmobile
> Toronado FAQ Administrator
http://www.442.com/kalkhoff.html
> http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/torofaqs.htm
> AKA "Sparky"

------------------------------

Date:
From:
Subject: [none]



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Sep 1997 00:09:44 -0300
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 350 or 455?

> I would like a 455, but if I can
> get decent performance out of a 350 I wouldn't mind. So far everyone has
> convinced me to stick with an Olds powered Olds...but the 502, or the ZZ4
> chevy is tempting :-) Thanks!


Jason, I can tell you from experience, the 502 crate motor isn't all
what it's cracked up to be.  I had to replace the tired 454 in my 76 GMC
truck and I went to get a replacement engine, since I really didn't want
to rebuild that rat.  Ended up buying the 502 440 HP model.  Not
impressed.  Yeah, it will sling my truck from 0-1000 mph in 2.3 seconds,
it keeps pulling hard well past 95 mph, ....but always at a constant 11
mpg.  I've even surprised my share of 5.0 Rustangs.  I'm still not
impressed with the money I spent.  My 71 442 feels stronger.   I
should've built one of the 455's I had laying around and put $4000 into
that.  That would have been ultra cool.  One good thing though.  I built
an Olds TH400 and adapted it behind the 502.  Unless you are dead set on
the "Other Guy's" big blocks, then I don't recommend it.  But, it's your
car.

2 cents,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Sep 1997 00:32:53 -0300
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Price/ advice

At 10:11 PM 9/3/97 -0700, you wrote:
>I am looking at a 1972 Cutlass Supreme that is all original including
>the paint.  It has 60,000 miles and has never seen winter.  It has the
>350 2V engine, air conditioning (needs charged but the clutch engages)
>bucket seats, interior is very good condition, engine compartment very
>clean, well maintained with all receipts for work performed. Rides like
>a charm. The owner is asking 5500 and I offered 4800.  Is 4800 a fair
>price for the vehicle? Please advise.
>

Yes! For a car in the condition you specified, it should be worth a little
more than your $4800.00 offer.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Sep 1997 00:26:56 -0300
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: email addresses and wed addresses (fwd)

> Hi everyone ,thank you for taking the time to read this. I was looking
> for the email addresses and web addresses for the following company's..
> Which company would be the best to deal with ...
>            Fusick's
>            Brother's
>            Menner's


Where have you been?  This very thread was bandied about here lately.
Here's the recommendation I can give you, and you will probably hear
other versions of it.  Fusick's has fairly quick service, but you pay a
few dollars more.  Brother's has the best overall prices, but you may be
waiting a while for your parts. (fix that Steve!) and Menner's....I
would assume you mean Ron MeMMer.  If it is, forget him.  I cannot in
good faith recommend him to anybody.  He does another job for a living,
and does Oldsmobile wheeling and dealings on the side. (kinda sounds
like Jim Chermack?  Just kidding Jim.  You don't lie.)

As far as web sites, only Brother's has a web site. It's
www.thehost.com/brothers  Fusick's dropped because it didn't generate
much business.   Brother's phone number is 800-442-PART.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Sep 1997 00:31:56 -0300
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Price/ advice

J. Michael Wolfe wrote:
>
> I am looking at a 1972 Cutlass Supreme that is all original including
> the paint.  It has 60,000 miles and has never seen winter.
> The owner is asking 5500 and I offered 4800.  Is 4800 a fair
> price for the vehicle? Please advise.

More than fair.  If it is as good as shape as you say it is.  Just look
at all that work and $$ you are saving yourself by buying a relatively
"cherry" car!  Good Luck!

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Sep 1997 00:45:30 -0300
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: I'm Back, and a New Olds Seen in Dodge

Gosh Tim ,we did miss you.  Poor Bill had to pick on himself :-)


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

My cars & their alias'
'66 Toronado (LA Woman)
'67 Delta 88 Custom  (Tizzy)
'69 Toronado (Toro II)
'72 Vista Cruiser (VC)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Sep 1997 00:52:38 -0300
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: 70 D88 in LA

I think we should re christen David "Delta King" :-)


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

My cars & their alias'
'66 Toronado (LA Woman)
'67 Delta 88 Custom  (Tizzy)
'69 Toronado (Toro II)
'72 Vista Cruiser (VC)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª832
********************************
