
oldsmobile-digest     Thursday, September 18 1997     Volume 01 : Number 854



Re: 69 442 Convertible
Re: OAI Hoods
RE: 72 Vista Cruiser, Re: 64 Vista-Cruiser
Surging
Re: Ols in Europe
Re: Woo hooo!!!!  A wagon mag!
Re: Drving experience
MCC on-line voting(olds related)
"69 H/O mirror gaskets
Re: Engine Parts
Re: Reving the Olds 403.....2
Gears
Who is Summit (was: Body bolt info)
69 442 Convertible
Re: 200-4R Info...(LONG)..replying
Re: 200-4R Info...(LONG) replying again
Re: W-455 Intake Nipple  HERE'S THE PART #!!!!!!!
Re: Drving experience..the imp ss driver
Re: All read! I don't know much yet...
Re: Gears
Re: Oil pressure
Re: Who is Summit (was: Body bolt info)
Re: 72 442 - How do ya tell real or fake
Re: Who is Summit (was: Body bolt info)
Re: Gears
RE: Oldsmobile Humor
RE: net parts search
RE: net parts search
Re: Who is Summit (was: Body bolt info)
Re: Olds in Europe
Re: Car restoration
Re: Knocking sound that's intermittent
Re: Speed Racer
Door hinge repair kits from year one
fuses: fusebox vs. manual
Re: fuses: fusebox vs. manual
Re: Engine Swapout 76-->70 350
Test
Re: fuses: fusebox vs. manual
Re: Speed Racer
Re: Who is Summit (was: Body bolt info)
Re: Woo hooo!!!! A wagon mag!
Re: Reving the Olds 403.....2
mail?
Re: Speed Racer
SB42/ California Smog
Re: Speed Racer
Gas tank interchange: '70 and '71 Cutlass
Re: fuses: fusebox vs. manual
455 rocket

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 21:05:13 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: 69 442 Convertible

Perused the pics of your newfound love/dream/quest:

I have heard & found that the car you do everything to yourself with blood
(literally), sweat (tons) and tears (as in checkbook) end up meaning the
most to you. This doesn't look bad to start with - Good Luck!




Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass (Ruby)
'66 Toronado (LA Woman)
'67 Delta 88 Custom  (Tizzy)
'69 Toronado (Toro II)
'72 Vista Cruiser (VC)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 21:09:09 -0700
From: dkilindr@direct.ca
Subject: Re: OAI Hoods

I've been following this thread with interest,  here are my
experiences.  

I had the unfortunate need to put a repro OAI hood on my '70 W30.  This
hood was supplied by a company called Deez Ltd.  (they may not be around
today since I haven't seen any of their ads anywhere).  This is a two
piece hood.  They basically took molds of the top and bottom of an
original hood and bonded them together.  There is no "ram air box" to
channel the air to the air cleaner assembly.  The hood is basically all
hollow.  It does not have steel bracing other than two short pieces on
either side for the hinges to bolt on to.  The latching mechanism is
crude with no metal support and repeated opening and closing chews up
the fibreglass.  It does not line up with the fender lines,  it buldges
in the middle,  since it is not stiff enough and the hinge springs are
too heavy.  If I could have seen it before buying,  I probably would not
have bought it.    

I talked to ASC&P  last May.  They told me a fire destroyed their shop
along with the molds for the hoods they produced.  The way I understood
it,  they offer a two piece or a three piece hood.  The two piece hood
is the top hood skin with the scoops and the "ram air box" which is
bonded under the top piece.  The three piece hood has the top skin,  the
"ram air box", and a fibreglass copy of the metal frame.  All three
pieces are bonded together to form the complete hood. They said that
they have extra long metal bracing incorporated in the frame piece to
add more stiffness.  They also said that they use high temperature
resins so that the hood does not soften as it heats up from the engine
heat.  I am not a fibreglass expert but there is probably truth to this
since I notice my repro tends to buldge more as it gets nice and warm
after running for a while.  The two piece hood is sold if you want to
mount it on a metal frame from a regular Cutlass hood of the same year. 
They do not supply the regular hood but can give instructions on how to
cut it. As Mike Blankenship stated,  this can be a very tedious task if
you want a nice looking finished product.  Back in May I was told they
might be ready to take orders around September but it now looks like
March of next year.

It would be interesting to hear comments on the ASC&P hood from someone
who has one.  Maybe someone close to ASC&P can drop in next spring and
see one of these hoods first hand and let the list know their thoughts
on the quality.

Dino
'70 W30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 21:12:33 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: RE: 72 Vista Cruiser, Re: 64 Vista-Cruiser

  The production 
>numbers for the VCs for many of the production years show about 20,000+ each 
>year. It doesn't look like 1972 was extraordinary; so it probably is 
>coincidence.
Rather nice though considering they were the last year for the 'true' Vista
Cruiser option (I don't consider those new road hogs with those tiny little
windows as anything comparable).


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass (Ruby)
'66 Toronado (LA Woman)
'67 Delta 88 Custom  (Tizzy)
'69 Toronado (Toro II)
'72 Vista Cruiser (VC)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 21:30:46 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Surging

The newest addition has a very subtle 'surge' when driving.  Its basically
there all the time.  This is a 330-4bbl.  Would that possibly be carb or
fuel pump?  Its rythmic - starts and stops evenly.  Car has 180,000 & most
everything looks original (honest).

Any ideas?


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass (Ruby)
'66 Toronado (LA Woman)
'67 Delta 88 Custom  (Tizzy)
'69 Toronado (Toro II)
'72 Vista Cruiser (VC)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 21:15:38 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Ols in Europe

Hey Erik - there's an idea for your VC (hot pink) !!!!!  I talked to a guy
today with a cream colored VC with GREEN interior (factory) - who thought
up that combo?


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass (Ruby)
'66 Toronado (LA Woman)
'67 Delta 88 Custom  (Tizzy)
'69 Toronado (Toro II)
'72 Vista Cruiser (VC)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 21:19:34 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Woo hooo!!!!  A wagon mag!

The guy who took photos of my car told me about this club.  I didn't know
they had a magazine too.  His comment was "they certainly aren't purists!"
Have to check this out.


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass (Ruby)
'66 Toronado (LA Woman)
'67 Delta 88 Custom  (Tizzy)
'69 Toronado (Toro II)
'72 Vista Cruiser (VC)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 21:23:44 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Drving experience

Oooohhh, this brings up my before referenced *love* of Mopars.  They've got
raw power, yes, but the handling isn't for sh*t.  My AMX could put you back
in the seat very nicely, but the handling still left alot to be desired and
the car just didn't feel tight or solid like my Olds.  Even the legendary
Ch*velle we had was the same - it just lacked that solid feeling (although
it ran high 10's - no beating that in any Olds I've had - yet).  A friend
of mine put it this way once about his '70 W-30, he could go 110, and set
his coffee on the dash without worrying it'd slop over.  


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass (Ruby)
'66 Toronado (LA Woman)
'67 Delta 88 Custom  (Tizzy)
'69 Toronado (Toro II)
'72 Vista Cruiser (VC)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 00:44:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: MCC on-line voting(olds related)

Howdy you all, MCC or know as My classiccar is having a contest on who has
the
best looking car around.  There are Oldsmobiles to vote on.  It changes every
week
on Wednesdays. Unfortunately, not 1 olds has won yet, so i am telling all to
go to

www.myclassiccar.com and then go to Photo Gallery to vote on your favorite
car, 
of course it being an OLDS.  The Olds competing this week is a 1972 Vista
Cruiser owned by a fella by the name of Fred Orcutt.  So please vote, no
purchase required and also you can leave email for the man in charge, after
all in Feb, MCC will air the 
100th Centennial of Olds

W MACHINES(Mark Prince)
72 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 01:06:50 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: "69 H/O mirror gaskets

To all 69 H/O owners on the list,

The OAI hood thread today got me thinking.  For those with '69 H/Os,
mirror gasket replacement is a nightmare.  I too, unfortunately have
some deteriorating mirror gaskets. I called a place that makes these
type of gaskets, and this process can be done....for a price.  I'm
asking anyone on this list that has a need for new mirror gaskets (or
know of someone who may need them) to e-mail me directly.  They will be
injection molded just as the factory did them.  I am willing to submit
my really good original for the prototype.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 23:49:45 -0600 (MDT)
From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Subject: Re: Engine Parts

> My 1964 Dynamic 88 Convertible is looking forward to having it's engine
> finally rebuilt, but I am having trouble locating kits for the rebuild.  It
> is feeling like the lonely stepchild that nobody wants.  It is starting to
> develop a complex because it is not as popular as the 442 or 330's.  Almost
> the same feelings of being the last one chosen in gym class.  Can somebody
> help me out, before I have to take her to the therapist.

	I feel your pain (literaly!)  I went through the same headache
when I built the 394 for my '60 98.  Like everybody else has suggested,
try Kanter, etc.  Of thoes sources, Kanter seemed to have the best prices,
and thats where I ended up buying my main bearings, rings, gasket set,
etc.  New pistons were simply out of my budget, and my old ones were in
good shape so the holes just got a cleanup hone and my old pistons got new
rings.  The only things I was able to find locally were rod bearings, and
a new timing chain (both Federal Mogul), and they were considerably
cheaper than any of the mail order places.  I thought it was kind of weird
that thoes were the only things they could get, but the guy at the counter
thought they must also fit some more common engine (I know there was at
least one GMC truck engine that shared some common parts with the 394 Olds
family).  If you get despirate for rod bearings and a timing chain, let me
know and I'll get them here.  :)  As for a therapist, I'm sure I'll have
one to recomend if I can't find the chrome trim and interior parts I need
for my '60!  (Talk about hard to find...two door hardtop side mouldings!)
Anyway, if you need any tips or anything on your engine, I might be able
to help, since I've been there and done that (did'nt have enough money
left over for the T-Shirt).  Anyway, good luck!

				Scott
			1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98  

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 01:52:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: Reving the Olds 403.....2

you wanted to see the fire, you should have seen the fire in my monitor 3
weks ago,
malaysias finest!!!!
What engine did the "8" heads come on anyway. Never seen that b-4, but i saw
it on a 73 98 for sale--2-door, with a 403 in it.....just curious

bernie.....cranford nj

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 01:56:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: OLDZ69442@aol.com
Subject: Gears

Hi All,
   My '69 442 has 3.23 gears, 4spd, A/C, and P24560R14 tires.  Off the line
it is disappointingly slow!  The 3.23 s have got to go.  
   What do you experienced Olds fans, reccomend?  I want to achieve good
crisp 
0---60 performance but I would like to be able to drive 60 on the occasional
hwy trip,     
without having the motor really screaming.
   Thanks for your help and suggestions.
   Bob Iozia
   Brick, NJ
   69 442
   57 Ch*vy (with a 350 and TH350 and 3.55 gears)  much faster than the 442
off the line.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 19:48:45 -0500
From: Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@themall.net>
Subject: Who is Summit (was: Body bolt info)

>Has anyone checked Summit?  I think some of their suspension companies
>were carrying polyurethane body mount sets.  They'd treat you better
>than most dealerships would, I'm sure...
>--
>
>             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
>             Box 524               | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
>             Sidney, Montana 59270 | http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
>             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
>             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
>	     "TRBO LVR" (Maybe???:)| '83 Turbo Regal
>               	     Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

I need most of the rubber suspension and mounting parts for my 69 Cutlass,
does anyone have a contact for "Summit"?



Lloyd Ferguson
ferguson@themall.net
(818) 241-9350

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 00:13:58 -0600
From: Tim Rudolph <trudolph@frii.com>
Subject: 69 442 Convertible

I appreciate all of your support on my project here.. I'm sure you'll be
hearing a lot more from me in the near future in the way of questions and
what not, probably too much from me :)  Right now she's busy getting a
little cleaning and a lotta basic tuneup/maintenence work..  She's running
strong as could be though, which is music to my ears.. :)

Tim Rudolph
trudolph@frii.com
'69 442 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 02:17:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: 200-4R Info...(LONG)..replying

thanks for the tranny info, i wanted to decode my tag to find out exactly
what year mine is.
 As long as my trans is out, any mods u sug?? What shift kit do u reccomend??
in case u forgot, my 4spd has a horiz. mounted yellow tag, with an "o" on the
left and a "g" on the right, and it will b behind a 71 modified olds 350, in
my 86 salon.

thanks in advance,  bernie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 02:22:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: 200-4R Info...(LONG) replying again

me again, ok, "og" code means 307 olds, how do i determine the year?? thanks

bernie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 02:34:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: AKOHLER@aol.com
Subject: Re: W-455 Intake Nipple  HERE'S THE PART #!!!!!!!

Could this manifold be off a marine engine or a water pumping engine. I know
for a fact that Olds built a lot of 455s for these applications. They also
used this to get the HOT parts out to the 1/4 milers (its listed in the parts
book so I can use it) just like the "for off road" or "heavy duty" that the
other guys used to claim. Any body with a jet boat that can check this out.

Just a thought
Alan Kohler

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 02:57:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: Drving experience..the imp ss driver

no offense but its still a chevy.....u dont root for gordon do you??? Whats
wrong with some nice engine noise????

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 10:50:16 +0200
From: "archy van wely" <usicon@pi.net>
Subject: Re: All read! I don't know much yet...

Thanks for the kind word.
Really appriciate it.
Archy

- ----------
> Van: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
> Aan: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Onderwerp: All read! I don't know much yet...
> Datum: woensdag 17 september 1997 22:32
> 
> I wanted to draw attention to this post, because, IMHO this is the
> perfect example of what this list is here for.  I would venture to say
> that most of our members (no matter ~how~ knowledgeable they may be
> right now) could very easily have posted this exact same letter in the
> past.  I know this was me eight years ago.  This list wasn't here then,
> so I learned a bunch on my own and in school.  This list gave tons more
> info to that empty space between my ears, and I feel that I've really
> gained alot from being on here.  Adam (*and everyone else in the same
> situation*)  Welcome aboard, and don't feel dumb about asking "stupid"
> questions --  There's no such thing.  You came here to learn and have
> fun; just like the rest of us.  
> 
> P.S.  Sounds like you've got an excellent ride in the works!
> 
> 
> > > > When I was 14, now 22.  I inherited a 71 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop
from
> > my
> > > > great grandmother.  The car needed new paint and a little body work
> > since
> > > > she was damn near blind and dinged a couple of corners of the
garage.
> > I
> > > > pulled a lot of corn tassles to afford a paint job for my car. 
When I
> > > > brought it home it had about 47,000 miles on it and over the years
I've
> > > > owned the car I've got it up to 53,000 miles.  This car is my baby
but
> > I
> > > > must admit I am not as knowledgable as most of you.  I joined this
list
> > > > serve to hopefully educate myself as I read the messages.
> > > >
> > > > I am an Oldsmobile enthusiast and would like to know more about my
car
> > > such
> > > > as value, engine I have, HP, and anything else so I can feel like I
> > have
> > > > something to compare as I read everyone else's messages.  I
apologize
> > for
> > > > my message not being as technically related as the others but
remember
> > I
> > > am
> > > > just learning the ropes right now.  Thanks....
> > > >
> > > > BTW, my car is completely stock since it was an old ladies car...
> > > >
> > > > Trying to learn,
> > > >
> > > > Adam Boeding
> > > >
> > > >
> 
> -- 
>     
>              Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
>              Box 524               | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
>              Sidney, Montana 59270 | http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
>              "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
>              "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
> 	     "TRBO LVR" (Maybe???:)| '83 Turbo Regal
>                	     Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 05:27:39 -0400
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: Re: Gears

Bob,
	I solved this problem with a DN(richmond gear) five speed trans.
First gear ration was about 3 to 1 giving me about a virtual 4.11 rear.

					The General

- --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 06:28:17 -0400 (EDT)
From: Markintime@aol.com
Subject: Re: Oil pressure

Hi Brad,
The condition you describe is not as weird as you might think.  Dropping oil
pressure as the engine warms up can be a sign of bearing wear.  As the oil
warms, it becomes thinner as you noted.  This thinner oil will run through
worn 
bearing clearances faster resulting in lower oil pressure.  The new pump is a
good idea, but if the bearing clearances are excessive it wont help that
much.
A heavier oil may also help, but be careful of running 20W50 if you are
running
a high volume pump.  One final thought, if the new pump is a high volume unit
and you are still running a stock oil pan, typically 4 qt. capacity, the pump
may
be draining the pan.  Also if some of the oil drain holes in the engine block
are
plugged, this would impead the return of oil to the pan and could create the
same
condition.  If the engine is high mileage, I'd look at bearings.

Good Luck
Mark Berube
Loganville, GA.
67' 442

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 07:10:08 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Who is Summit (was: Body bolt info)

Lloyd Ferguson wrote:
> 
> 
> I need most of the rubber suspension and mounting parts for my 69 Cutlass,
> does anyone have a contact for "Summit"?
> 
> Lloyd Ferguson
> ferguson@themall.net
> (818) 241-9350

http://www.summitracing.com

Get a free catalog. They rule!

- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftŠ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 07:36:13 -0400
From: Joseph Gambaccini <jgambaccini@ci.richmond.va.us>
Subject: Re: 72 442 - How do ya tell real or fake

mrhell@m1.sprynet.com wrote:

> Bob,
>
> Be sure to pickup a book that tells you all the code and vin#
> information
> about oldsmobile cars, if your looking to buy a car.  It's worth it!
>
> For a 1972 4-4-2, here some info for you..
>
> First, the Vin number:
>
> first digit.  "3" = division of GM (Oldsmobile)
>
> second digit identifies the series.
> F = F85 2 door coupe
> G = cutlass
> J = cutlass supreme (hurst/olds)
>
> third and fourth digits is the body type.
> 57 = 2 door hardtop coupe (hurst/olds)
> 67 = 2 door covt. (hurst/olds)
> 77 = 2 door club coupe
> 87 = 2 door hard top coupe
>
> fifth digit the engine..
> H = 350 2/bl  160 hp
> J = 350 2/bl dual exhaust  175 hp
> K = 350 4/bl  180 hp
> M = 350 4/bl dual exhaust  200 hp
> U = 455 4/bl   "     "     250 hp
> V =  "    "    "     "     270 hp
> X =   "   "  (W30)         300 hp
>
> sixth digit model year (2= 1972)
>
> seventh digit assembly plant
> G = Framingham, MA
> M = Good ol' Lansing, MI
> R = Arlington, TX
> Z = Fremont, CA
>
> Last six digits = production #. starting with 100001/up
>
> Now for the body plate... I'll just give you an example because I'm
> not
> going to type out all the info!!!
>
> ST     72-33687   LAN    123456     BODY
> TR     970     A51       11 - 11    PAINT
>
> 72= model year
> 3 = Oldsmobile
> 36 = series - with the cutlass supreme 4-4-2 the code is (4267) also
> covt
>               & W30
> 87 = 2 door hardtop coupe
> LAN = assembly plant (Lansing MI)
> 123456 = production #
> 970 = trim code
> A51 = seat type code
> 11 = lower body color
> 11 = upper body color
> 04C = build date (april, 3rd week)
>
> Hopes this helps you a little.  As I said be sure to get a book that
> tells you what the codes mean.  Most part suppliers carry one..
>
> One last thought... does the guy have any original paperwork?
>
> PS - If anyone disagrees with the above info, please complain to "Car
> &
> Parts Magazine". not me! (unless my finger slipped) :)
>
> RC Hellebuyck
> 1971 4-4-2 covt..
>
> =================
> =======================================================
> >I would appreciate your help. I'm thinking of buying a 72 442 conv.
> How
> >can I
> >be sure it's a real 442 & not a clone? Owner tells me #s match but
> there
> >is
> >no way to distinquish a 442 by VIN, Is there another way?
> >Thanks,
> >Bob from NJ

bob:

unfortunately, with a '72 442 the VIN, firewall tag, door tag and engine
numbers won't tell you anything about the 442 "option".   The VIN did,
though, from '68-'71.  i also have a '72 442 and i don't "really" know
if it's a 442 optioned cutlass or not.  i've only been able to track the
prior owners of mine back to the late '70's (therefore, it could be
"real").

mine was built in lansing.  is there a way to send all the "numbers" to
lansing for verification???

gambo

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 07:41:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: ea154@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Josh J. Haviland)
Subject: Re: Who is Summit (was: Body bolt info)

Reply to message from ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu of Thu, 18 Sep
>
>Lloyd Ferguson wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> I need most of the rubber suspension and mounting parts for my 69 Cutlass,
>> does anyone have a contact for "Summit"?
>> 
>> Lloyd Ferguson
>> ferguson@themall.net
>> (818) 241-9350
>
>http://www.summitracing.com
>
>Get a free catalog. They rule!
>
>-- 
>**********************************
>Matt Cremean
>+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
>CreamerSoftŠ Software
>http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
>+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
>1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
>http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
>**********************************
>
>
  But chances are (looking over new mgazine) you will have to call and ask
about olds parts, they carry them, just seem to only list c*evy and f*rd
stuff, prices are decent tho,

- --
__/////////\  Budgreen, ea154@cleveland.freenet.edu  /\\\\\\\\\__             
  \\\\\\\\\/      Josh......                         \/////////
=================================================================

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 07:45:25 -0400
From: Joseph Gambaccini <jgambaccini@ci.richmond.va.us>
Subject: Re: Gears

OLDZ69442@aol.com wrote:

> Hi All,
>    My '69 442 has 3.23 gears, 4spd, A/C, and P24560R14 tires.  Off the
> line
> it is disappointingly slow!  The 3.23 s have got to go.
>    What do you experienced Olds fans, reccomend?  I want to achieve
> good
> crisp
> 0---60 performance but I would like to be able to drive 60 on the
> occasional
> hwy trip,
> without having the motor really screaming..
>    Thanks for your help and suggestions..
>    Bob Iozia
>    Brick, NJ
>    69 442
>    57 Ch*vy (with a 350 and TH350 and 3.55 gears)  much faster than
> the 442
> off the line..

what is inside of the '69 442 motor?  and what's inside of that '57
chevy???there's was guy here in richmond a couple of years ago with a
'70 442, 4 speed, 3:42 rear, ' did some engine work (i wish i knew what
kind of engine work) and that car was "flying" in the high 11's and
drove it around town.  i wouldn't blame it all on the gears.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 08:00:13 -0400
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: RE: Oldsmobile Humor

Jeff would be proud of you. I don't do all of these, but enough of them
to be called a "fanatic", just ask my co-workers and wife.

Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the.....Past  

	-----Original Message-----
	From:	tgstoner@umich.edu [SMTP:tgstoner@umich.edu]
	Sent:	Wednesday, September 17, 1997 5:16 PM
	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	Subject:	Oldsmobile Humor


	Offered, with apologies to Jeff Foxworthy:

	You might be an Oldsmobile fanatic if . . .

	the pin number for your ATM card is 0442.

	the used car manager at the local Oldsmobile dealership calls
you to ask
	the value on a Hurst/Olds someone is thinking of trading.    And
you give
	him a lowball figure in the hope you can then get there quickly
enough to
	outbid them for the car.

	your living room furnishings can be described in just three
words - Strato
	Bucket Seats.

	you know what all the W-codes stand for, from 25 to 46.

	you think that popcorn is done perfectly in your microwave oven,
when
	heated for 4 minutes and 42 seconds.

	you can spot a fake Hurst/Olds, from across the parking lot.

	you can spot a fake Curved Dash Olds.

	all your E-Mail messages are sent with a priority value of 442,
on a scale
	from 1 to 999.

	your son is named Bravada.

	your lawn tractor has a pair of OAI scoops.    And a chrome
"trumpet"
	extension on the exhaust pipe.

	you can remember the VIN from your now long-gone first Cutlass,
but you
	have difficulty remembering your wedding anniversary.    Any of
them.

	you have a whole shelf in the garage devoted to Oldsmobile
hubcaps you've
	picked up off the street, all of which are at least slightly
damaged, none
	of which match, and which you're keeping for the day when you
pick up a car
	that needs them.

	at least 30% of the books in your library are Chassis Service
Manuals from
	Lansing.

	you've been on the showroom floor at the local Oldsmobile
dealership so
	often, that none of the sales people will talk to you anymore.

	you dress up like Dr. Oldsmobile or Elephant Engine Ernie, and
it isn't
	Halloween.

	you have a new drive shaft for a '57 Super 88 stored in your
garage, and
	you've never owned a car older than a 1968.

	you have a drawer full of "toy" Oldsmobiles which the kids don't
dare play
	with.

	you have a file cabinet full of JWO back issues.

	Now, I'll admit that I'm guilty of some of these things.
Alright, I'm
	guilty of alot of them, but 0442 isn't my PIN number.  Anymore.
How many
	are you guilty of?

	Tom Stoner
	Oldsmobile Club of America #3943  <---- That's not my PIN number
either.
	Ann Arbor, MI               Only because I just now thought of
it.
	tgstoner@umich.edu

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 08:16:32 -0400
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: RE: net parts search

On Wednesday, September 17, 1997 8:37 PM, Chris Brown Witt
[SMTP:wittchri@pilot.msu.edu] wrote:
> Would someone be so kind as to send me the web address of that place
to look up
> part #'s on the web?
> 
> I tried partsource, no help. Tried looking up "old car parts", nope,
that's not
> it. My bookmark is something like Parts Finder, refused to load after
10
> minutes even. Finally did come back to it, but it didn't seem to work
right.
> 
> Please send the info to my email account, not the list!
> 
> wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
> 
> 
> --
> Chris  B. Witt
> *the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

Here are a few URLs I have:

http://autopartsused.com/

http://www.worldparts.com/

http://www.partsvoice.com/


Bobby

70 442
Escape Back to the....Past

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 07:49:05 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: RE: net parts search

Try this one, they specialize in hard to find parts.

http://www.kanter.com/

> On Wednesday, September 17, 1997 8:37 PM, Chris Brown Witt
> [SMTP:wittchri@pilot.msu.edu] wrote:
> > Would someone be so kind as to send me the web address of that place
> to look up
> > part #'s on the web?
> > 
> > I tried partsource, no help. Tried looking up "old car parts", nope,
> that's not
> > it. My bookmark is something like Parts Finder, refused to load after
> 10
> > minutes even. Finally did come back to it, but it didn't seem to work
> right.
> > 
> > Please send the info to my email account, not the list!
> > 
> > wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
> > 
> > 
> > --
> > Chris  B. Witt
> > *the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
> 
> Here are a few URLs I have:
> 
> http://autopartsused.com/
> 
> http://www.worldparts.com/
> 
> http://www.partsvoice.com/
> 
> 
> Bobby
> 
> 70 442
> Escape Back to the....Past
> 

- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 07:51:23 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: Who is Summit (was: Body bolt info)

http://www.kanter.com/

They don't have alot for cutlass's, but do have alot of acessories 
and other goodies, (I know from experience) otherwise when you 
looking for hard to find parts, this is my best source so far is.....

http://www.kanter.com


> Lloyd Ferguson wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > I need most of the rubber suspension and mounting parts for my 69 Cutlass,
> > does anyone have a contact for "Summit"?
> > 
> > Lloyd Ferguson
> > ferguson@themall.net
> > (818) 241-9350
> 
> http://www.summitracing.com
> 
> Get a free catalog. They rule!
> 
> -- 
> **********************************
> Matt Cremean
> +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
> CreamerSoftŠ Software
> http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
> +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
> 1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
> http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
> **********************************
> 

- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 15:40:26 +0200
From: Roland Klinger <Roland.Klinger@bonn.netsurf.de>
Subject: Re: Olds in Europe

Hello Erik,

>I also checked out your pictures.  I have one question though, is that 72
>Vista Cruiser really HOT PINK, or was there a color problem with the
>scanner.  Good to see that Oldsmobiles are appreciated all over the world.
>Please keep us informed of future updates to your page.  

No, there was no problem with the scanner, it really was HOT PINK. Im more
in the conservative way of restoring: take modern paint but take the colors
the car had when it was build. I did that with my ´56 Olds. I took the pic
of the Vista Cruiser because it really looked funny. But let everybody do
want he wants with his car. The wheels didn´t look too original either.
Nevertheless, a nice car.

Roland
- -- ´56 Olds 88 Holiday Coupe --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 14:22:00 GMT
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Car restoration

>I'm looking for some guidance on what to do first to my 70 convert.

BRAKES!

>Logically I would guess that you want all the mechanicals the way you want them
>first.

You've got that right. First, make sure everything is up to factory specs:

1A) The brakes are undoubtedly in need of a complete overhaul, unless
they've been regularly maintained (unlikely), so unless they've already been
replaced, replace all the parts with seals (master cyl, wheel cyls,
calipers), the rubber hoses, shoes, pads and hardware, and replace any of
the hard line that may be suspect (it can rust through, with exciting, if
not disasterous results). In any restoration (or even with any used car), a
fundamental rule is to start with the brakes.

1B) The suspension and steering (ball joints, tie rods, drag link, idler
arm, bushings) needs to be in good shape before you get it on the road. In
addition, you ought to have a decent set of tires; not necessarily new, but
if they're used, make sure that the rubber is not dry-rotted or a belt has
not separated and slipped in the tire itself.

1C) Check the frame and body-mounts for damaging rust. Surface rust is fine,
but you don't want your frame flaking off in pieces, especially when your
convertible lacks the structural support from a closed body.

1D) Now that you can roll, turn and stop, you want to turn your attention to
what gets you moving. Make sure that the drivetrain is in good basic
condition before you modify anything. Change the fluids in the engine (oil
and coolant), transmission and rear axle housing, and give it a tuneup to
factory specs. Then determine whether it burns oil, has good compression,
knocks, pings, rattles, shudders, squeals, whines, etc... Get that fixed
before you go modifying anything, or incorporate those repairs into a
rebuild/modification (i.e. if you've got burnt valves, do a valve job when
you're replacing the cam).

Since you've got the 2-bbl motor, you'll have the low-compression pistons,
so you may want to consider using the high-compression pistons in a rebuild;
they would be a necessity if you went to a W-31 cam.

>Second: all body and paint

Actually, I'd recommend putting the top into good shape before doing the
body. A leaky roof can undo a lot of body work. Also, make sure the inner
body sheetmetal (trunk floors, passenger compartment floors, body mounts,
gas tank mount) is in good shape, before you concern yourself with the
visible sheetmetal. Also, replace all the weatherstripping when you're doing
the bodywork; it's likely lost its pliability by this point.

>Third: Interior

This can be the last thing you do, though at first you want to make sure
that all the accessories are working and are not hacked. A bad stereo
installation can burn up a whole car, so again, make sure everything is at
least as good as it should be when the car left the factory, before trying
to make it better. Upholstery, though it's the part of the car you see most,
can wait the longest.

>Last: top

See under body and paint.

>
>The car has 78,000 orig mi
>
>The motor runs great (it's an oldsof course) 350 2bbl
>I would eventually like to detail the engine compartment.  And put a hotter cam
>in  Maybe build it to w31 specs.  Car is very presentable as is.  Needs work on
>interior , Top , Paint to look really nice!
>
>I guess I'm going to do a body on resto.

Unless you're going to make it into a non-driven show-car, or it's really
far rusted underneath, a body-off probably isn't worth it. With 78,000
miles, it'll need some mechanicals, and the rubber parts will need
replacement, but other than that it sounds like a great starting point!
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 14:21:58 GMT
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Knocking sound that's intermittent

>After I do a fast acceleration I get a knocking sound then it
>goes away after a few miles. 
>
>Is this just lifters?  
>
>If so should I run something like Resoline through before
>I change the oil?  

It sounds like it might be lifters, since it wouldn't be going away if it
were your rod or main bearings. Some of that sludge-remover might do the
trick; just follow the directions. They also warn about cleaning out the oil
pan if there is heavy buildup (i.e. you've got 200,000 miles on a car that
has only seen "infrequent" oil changes), so take that into consideration.

You might try an oil change with a different-weight oil as a first step, though.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 08:06:33 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Speed Racer

Hi all,

I must be bored here at work.  I found the music for the theme song
for Speed Racer and keep playing it over and over again.  I guess I'd
rather be driving right now.  When listening to the tune (American
version, because there is a Japanese version) and when he revs his
engine, it sounds like a V8 (American) to me.  A fellow coworker 
thought that maybe it was a Japanese engine sound.  Am I the only
willing to admit that I wanted a car like Speed's (Mach 5).  I guess
that since I grew up as a child in the 60's I have a lot of associations
with these kinds of things.  Enough Rambler'ing (pun intended)

Question for the day:

Who remembers what all of the buttons were for on Speeds steering 
wheel.  I give one hint, the buttons ranged from A to G.

On your mark, get set, go....


Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 10:12:59 -0500
From: Mike Schlottman <mschlott@rsn.hp.com>
Subject: Door hinge repair kits from year one

I have bought a set of the door hinge repair kits from year one to fix a
sagging passeger door.  I thought that I would have to remove the fender
to get the hinges off.  After looking closely at the hinges it looks
like I can simply remove the door and repair the hinge on the car.  Has
anyone else ever done this?  Any tips or gotchas for this project?

BTW thanks to everyone who responded about my oil consumtion problem. 
It looks like the oil is going past the rings.

	mike

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 11:39:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: senko@reston.ans.net (Andrew A. Senko)
Subject: fuses: fusebox vs. manual

Hi all,

Last night I was replacing a fuse.  I think it was the one that handles the
interior lights / courtesy lights / etc.  Anyway, next to the socket where
the fuse goes is the designation "20A".  Ok, I can figure out what that
means.

Since I had my chassis manual handy, I decided to lookup the fuse specs.
According to the manual, this fuse should be an "AGC 25A".

So who do you trust?  The fuseblock says 20A and the manual says 25A.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 

Next, I tried to replace a dead lightbulb.  The light shines on the
convertible top switch (it would shine on the Cruise Control switch in
non-covertibles that were so equipped).  The bulb is located just below and
to the left of the speedometer.  Has anyone ever changed this one?  I
couldn't get the d*mn thing out.  I removed the gauge cluster.
Right behind (and I mean RIGHT BEHIND!) the socket is an immovable support
bar or bracket that prevents you from removing the bulb and socket.  After I
spent a lot of time getting the bulb to turn to the unlocked position, I
realized that it wasn't coming out without removing much more of the dash.
Well, not worth it for this little bulb.  Anyway, I'm just wondering if
anyone ever got one of these out.  Heaven knows it's a real hazard not
having your convertible top switch illuminated at night!  ;-)

- -- 
                    _
                    |\            Convertibles                     
     .__====-_._____|_\______         Rule!                        Drew Senko
     [   ___  |-     |  ___  \                           senko@reston.ans.net
     =\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)               http://members.aol.com/drewinva
_________\_/____________\_/__________________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 14:47:32 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <grpruett@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: fuses: fusebox vs. manual

Andrew A. Senko wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Last night I was replacing a fuse.  I think it was the one that handles the
> interior lights / courtesy lights / etc.  Anyway, next to the socket where
> the fuse goes is the designation "20A".  Ok, I can figure out what that
> means.
> 
> Since I had my chassis manual handy, I decided to lookup the fuse specs.
> According to the manual, this fuse should be an "AGC 25A".
> 
> So who do you trust?  The fuseblock says 20A and the manual says 25A.

You could try slapping in a 20A first.  Then turn on everything
associated with it.  If it works leave it.  If it blows replace it with
the 25A and try again.  If you go with a fuse with a lower amperage
rating than neccesary all you risk hurting is the fuse.  If you use a
higher rating you chance burning up a heckuva lot more if something goes
wrong.

Is it me or do these things just die of old age after 22 years or so?  I
remember for the first year after I ressurected the Vista Cruiser I
popped most of the fuses in the fuseblock, one at a time,  for now
apparent reason.  I replaced them as they died and they haven't blown
since.

Greg Pruett 
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 12:30:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine Swapout 76-->70 350

In a message dated 97-09-17 23:51:22 EDT, you write:

<< << torque and horsepower.  it also had a 5000 stall converter in it(one
fast
  car).
  
 <<<< i agree with you in the fact that you have a 2000 stall converter that
  will fit both a th-350 and a th-400, but if you take a 2000 stall out of a
  th-350 and put it in a th-400 you will loose about 500 rpm's. >>>>
 
 
 
  
  mikey tvb@aol.com
  73 cutlass w/403 and th-350
   >>
 Correct me if Im wrong, (and there are those who will) but the transmission
 thats connected to the torque converter has no bearing whatso ever on the 
 converters ability to stall. A different engine with different power will
affect
 the stall of the converter.  Your 5000 stall converter will perhaps stall at
5000
 with the 700 hp but will stall at a lesser rpm on a stock motor. The small
Vega
 converters do not stall at the same rpm on a stock Vega motor as they do
 on a built BBC. In theory the converter could be connected to a building and

 the only difference in stall would be the amount of power applied to it. So
then
 whether it be a PowerSlide or a TH350/400 or R4 when the car is locked
 from motion, powerbraked or what, the converter will not be affected by what

 tranny is on that side of the converter.  
 
 However, it does take a few more horsepower to turn the output shaft of a 
 TH400 in comparison to the TH350, so in order to move the vehicle the engine
 has to work "just a bit" harder. This should theoretically increase the
amount 
 of engine rpm in relation to the rpm of the drive shaft in the situation
with the
 TH400 using the same drive train elsewhere...engine, rear, etc, being the 
 motor has to apply a few more horsepower to obtain the same result. Again 
 we are talking about a minimal amount( i believe its less than 15hp?) and 
 dont think its going to show much of a difference......TIM
  >>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 11:55:06 -0700
From: "Mike Aldana" <maldana@digitalwave.net>
Subject: Test

maldana@digitalwave.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 15:04:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: fuses: fusebox vs. manual

i would try replacing the light bulb. and then try using a 20 amp fuse.  if
the fuse still blows, try a 25 amp fuse.  as for changing the bulb, ??????

mikey tvb@aol.com
73 cutlass w/403

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 15:05:35 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Speed Racer

Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) wrote:
> 
>
> Question for the day:
> 
> Who remembers what all of the buttons were for on Speeds steering
> wheel.  I give one hint, the buttons ranged from A to G.
> 
A-G, hmmmmmm..........that means Speed had his selection of big-block
Oldsmobile heads right at his finger tips?????

You know he'd have gone a lot faster if he had the Aurora engine....

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 10:32:58 -0800
From: Dan Lacey <lacey@dsea.com>
Subject: Re: Who is Summit (was: Body bolt info)

>>Has anyone checked Summit?  I think some of their suspension companies
>>were carrying polyurethane body mount sets.  They'd treat you better
>>than most dealerships would, I'm sure...
>
>I need most of the rubber suspension and mounting parts for my 69 Cutlass,
>does anyone have a contact for "Summit"?
>
>
>
>Lloyd Ferguson
>ferguson@themall.net
>(818) 241-9350

You can get OEM rubber at any parts store. MOOG and TRW make parts for your
car. They probably don't stock the parts, but should be able to get them in
a day or two.

Now if you want to use more high-perf. stuff... That's another story...


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 14:15:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Woo hooo!!!! A wagon mag!

Woo Hooo?....

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 14:06:07 -0400 (EDT)
From: CRuper1@aol.com
Subject: Re: Reving the Olds 403.....2

In a message dated 97-09-18 03:49:54 EDT, you write:

<< 
 you wanted to see the fire, you should have seen the fire in my monitor 3
 weks ago,
 malaysias finest!!!!
 What engine did the "8" heads come on anyway. Never seen that b-4, but i saw
 it on a 73 98 for sale--2-door, with a 403 in it.....just curious
 
 bernie.....cranford nj
 
  >>
#8 heads are for the 350, and are from the "smog" area (approx. 1974ish).
 Low compression, and all that good stuff.

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 08:51:00 -0500
From: jrjet@mtco.com (Dot & Tim McChesney)
Subject: mail?

Hello?  Anyone here?  Haven't got any mail from this list in about a
week.....  What's going on?  Let me know if I need to resub....

Tim

*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#
#  New links and recipes added Sept. 9th!      *
*  Recipe Section (Always In Progress!)!       #
#  http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/3053     *
*  email:  jrjet@mtco.com                      #
#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 15:56:30 -0400
From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Subject: Re: Speed Racer

> > Question for the day:
> > 
> > Who remembers what all of the buttons were for on Speeds steering
> > wheel.  I give one hint, the buttons ranged from A to G.
> > 
> A-G, hmmmmmm..........that means Speed had his selection of big-block
> Oldsmobile heads right at his finger tips?????
> 
> You know he'd have gone a lot faster if he had the Aurora engine....
> 
> Mike Rothe

Yeah, especially compared to that Golf III he drives in that VW commerical
these days...

And I bet Racer X had that experimental Hemi Olds, right?



Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 15:31:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: SB42/ California Smog

Any other Californians online know the latest with this bill?  I'd heard that
it was on the Gov's desk...?
Coupe King@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 12:57:28 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Speed Racer

Mike Rothe wrote:
> 
> A-G, hmmmmmm..........that means Speed had his selection of big-block
> Oldsmobile heads right at his finger tips?????

Hee. Hee.  Hee!  That was an ingenious answer.

> You know he'd have gone a lot faster if he had the Aurora engine....

Hmmmmmm..... :-)  Ah come on.  Doesn't anyone remember the show?

Chris


P.S.  You know what is even more strange about this series is that
      I always thought it was a cartoon about an american family.
      Come to find out they were really Japanese.  The M on the 
      hood stands for Mifune Motors and Speed's Japanese name is
      "Go".

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 19:53:09 GMT
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Gas tank interchange: '70 and '71 Cutlass

I'd like to replace the existing tank in my '70 (which has been sitting for
13 years, containing an unknown amount of sludge, varnish and sediment) with
one from a '71 that was used regularly and is now emptied out. The size and
shape is the same, but the '71 has two vent tubes on the front corners; is
this going to work on my '70? I recall reading something about a filter up
above the axle that some vent tubes went up to, and I recalled seeing
something up there when I was doing the brake lines, but didn't pay much
attention at the time.

I'll be dropping the tank as soon as I get the new mounting hardware, and
was wondering if anyone has done such a swap. In addition, should I transfer
the original sending unit to the newer tank, or use the sending unit already
in there? (assuming both test out to be good) Is there any difference?

TIA
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 04:18:07 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: fuses: fusebox vs. manual

<<Anyway, next to the socket where the fuse goes is the designation "20A".  
Since I had my chassis manual handy, I decided to lookup the fuse specs.
>According to the manual, this fuse should be an "AGC 25A".>>

Well for safety and the better well being of your wiring harness, use the 20A. 
 It should hold ok unless you use everything on that circuit at once and for a 
lengthy time.


>So who do you trust?  The fuseblock says 20A and the manual says 25A.>

This may be a long shot, but are you sure your looking at the same fuse block 
as your car?  example:  in my 71 manual they picture two or three different 
fuse blocks.  I almost "panicked" at first, until I realized it was for a 
different body.

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt,

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 16:10:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: 455 rocket

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download and listen to this.  i am trying to figure out how many people are
on this mailing list.  so, could everyone please respond and tell a little
about your car?  please respond to "455 rocket" only.

mikey tvb@aol.com
73 cutlass w/403

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	name="455.WAV"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64


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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #854
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