To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #874


oldsmobile-digest      Sunday, September 28 1997      Volume 01 : Number 874



Re: bummed about my leak
Re: bummed about my leak
Re: bummed about my leak
Re: There's my car!, no its here!!
Re: speedometer drive Gear
Re: (Bad) Luck of the Irish   (long)
cutlass fs found on AOL board
Re: no-oil engine runs
After 13 years... IT'S ALIVE!!! (and leaking like a poorly-trained puppy)
Re: There's my car!
Re: B/U lites required?
'70 CS headlight wiring; where's it routed?
Found Olds Cutlass body man
CC'ing cylinder heads
Re: rebuilding olds 403
Re: bummed about my leak
Re: Vote for Olds
Olds Movies
Re: After 13 years... IT'S ALIVE!!! (and leaking like a poorly-trained puppy)
Re: Knock Sensor
Re: There's my car!
Olds Music
Re: (Bad) Luck of the Irish   (long)
Re: Found Olds Cutlass body man
Re: bummed about my leak
Oil Pan Help
Rechroming Bumpers
help help help!
Re: There's my car!
Re: Rechroming Bumpers
Re: Oil Pan Help
Re: Oil Pan Help
Re: Knock Sensor
Re: Olds Music
Re: There's my car!
77-->70 engine swapout update
Re: Found Olds Cutlass body man
Chromeplating hobbyist pricing
Re: Oil Pan Help
Finally some good news
Re: Chromeplating hobbyist pricing
Re: 77-->70 engine swapout update
Re: Finally some good news
Hurst Olds
Carb numbers-what do I have
Re: Fan Clutches.
Re: Found Olds Cutlass body man
Re: rebuilding olds 403
Re: Finally some good news

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Sep 97 21:14:54 EDT
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: bummed about my leak

At 10:20 AM 9/27/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I've been systematically attacking a ticking sound in my valvetrain for the
>last several months.  First effort was repeated engine flushes, next was
>checking torque of the stock rockers, next was replacement with Comp Cams
roller
>tip rocker set, pushrods, guideplates, etc.  That didn't do it.
>
>My latest effort, just (almost) completed is the replacement of my hydraulic
>lifters.
>Blue Wolverine were in there, which I understand are not known for quality.
>Anyway,
>I called Mondello and ended up ordering a set of Engle lifters, anti pump up,
>high performance and he says, oil restricted.  That plus the Velpaloid intake
>gasket and his valley pan to keep hot oil off the intake.
>
>Installation went relatively well.  I was quite disappointed in the quality of
>the
>intake gasket, just a plain cork thing for the front and rear without the
>convenient tabs that stick into the block at each side.  His valley pan
>installs easily, right over the other "pan" that some of you have been
>discussing, that sits right down close to the lifters.  With the stock already
>there I don't see how *any* oil can make it up and past
> it to the bottom of the instake but whatever....
>
>Anyway, I finally get it all put together this afternoon, start it and sure
>enough, a
> very small leak, right behind the oil fill tube.  The leak is of coolant,
>though, not
> oil.  How can the coolant be leaking there, unless the manifold is cracked?
>It must be somehow flowing/oozing down from the port 2 inches to the side.  
I'm
>concerned, if the coolant is getting that far and making its way out, then I'd
>think there is a good
> chance its also leaking down inside the engine, into the valley pan area and
>therefore
> the crankcase.  I did use 1/8 in or so beads of RTV Ultra Blue to seal this
>thing.  Must not have been enough?  I started it about 2 hours after the
>installation, maybe the RTV didn't have enough time to set completely?
>
>I'll check it inthe morning.  If it still leaks, back at it again.
>

    Todd,  I'm curious to know if the ticking is resolved.  Apparently
haven't seen any preceding threads on this....which motor do you have?  I
guess that doesn't matter because the filler tube is behind the water pump
in the block. Unless there is a leak from the back plate of the pump??  That
still doesn't make any sense because if that was the case you'd be putting
coolant into the motor and the least point of resistance to a fluid leak
wouldn't show up where you describe. Your suspicion seems to be the only
likely suspect at this point but I hope this isn't the case.  If you
strongly suspect that the manifold is at fault and is probably the cause of
a coolant leak then at this point I would run the motor up to operating temp
and while still hot re-torque the intake manifold 5 lbs. over specification.
Then let it cool down overnight and recheck for the leak.  There is a good
chance that it will seal and once it does it usually won't reappear.


  Glenn
  '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Sep 1997 21:28:44 -0400
From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: bummed about my leak

Yes, indeed it is aluminum--a Performer Olds by Edelbrock 2151.  I ran it again
this
afternoon and no problems.

Also, I might be imagining things but it seems to have better throttle
response, revs
up quicker.  I wonder if its possible for high quality lifters to make that
kind of difference.....



>Was it an aluminum intake by chance? If thats the case, you have to
>retorque again after 10 min of engine running, (found this out in Car
>Craft magazine, the article about low cost bolt on hp)

Todd Morris
71 442

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Sep 1997 21:38:53 -0400
From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: bummed about my leak

No results yet on the ticking.  That occurs only after sustained cruising at
2700RPM+ and
under load.  I'll test that once I change the engine oil, again. By the way,
another thing I learned from this intake removal--contrary to what the shop
manual says,
I think it would be better to drain the block, rather than the radiator, of
coolant.
I did drain the radiator but of course when I removed the manifold all kinds of
coolant
went gushing into the heads and the valley pan, necessitating a double oil
change before
I'll run this thing with any seriousness.

>    Todd,  I'm curious to know if the ticking is resolved.  Apparently
>haven't seen any preceding threads on this....which motor do you have?  I
>guess that doesn't matter because the filler tube is behind the water pump
>in the block. Unless there is a leak from the back plate of the pump??  That
>still doesn't make any sense because if that was the case you'd be putting
>coolant into the motor and the least point of resistance to a fluid leak
>wouldn't show up where you describe. Your suspicion seems to be the only
>likely suspect at this point but I hope this isn't the case.  If you
>strongly suspect that the manifold is at fault and is probably the cause of
>a coolant leak then at this point I would run the motor up to operating temp
>and while still hot re-torque the intake manifold 5 lbs. over specification.
>Then let it cool down overnight and recheck for the leak.  There is a good
>chance that it will seal and once it does it usually won't reappear.


Todd Morris
71 442

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Sep 1997 19:45:58 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: There's my car!, no its here!!

RCKTPWR@aol.com wrote:
>
> Check the movie "Airheads", thats a 67 442 conv, in my color, that the chick
> is driving around in!!!

I started ranting and raving and pointing and shouting when I watched
that show.  "A 442!!!!!!"  And I don't even own one of ~those~ (yet!)
- --

             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
             Box 524               | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Sidney, Montana 59270 | http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "TRBO LVR" (Maybe???:)| '83 Turbo Regal
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Sep 1997 22:09:19 -0400
From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: speedometer drive Gear

Yes, this is absurdly high. I just bought the correct speedo gear for my 3.23
rear from
the dealer.  He had to order it but it cost all of 5$ or so.

>Has anyone heard of this company that sells speedometer drive gears?
>I left an add on Bryceman's page for a gear for a 3:23 rearend mating to a
>TH350.
>I got the following response:
>
>WE HAVE IT $50 PLUS S?H
>CALL 253 475 2624
>FlyParts@aol.com
>
>Am I right that $50 is a huge price for a speedo gear? Does anyone know if
>"FlyParts" is a legitimate company?
>

Todd Morris
71 442

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Sep 1997 20:12:40 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: (Bad) Luck of the Irish   (long)

Well, I've been driving my '85
> Cutlass Supreme because I haven't gotten around to looking a the Ciera yet.
>  So what happens to me now, you ask?  I get into an accident.  Only a
> little one, but an accident none the less.

Some people just ~really~ need to be taken out and shot, I swear.  Some
may remember in Feb, I'd gotten A-holed by some drunk lady w/o
insurance.  Between $2000 & $2500 to the Rockit.  She tried fighting the
DUI charge (never heard the outcome of the no ins, expired plates,
suspended license, or the one other charge that slips my mind right
now)  I was subpeona'd (sp) for the prosecution, and finally came to
trial in August (after two or three last minute extensions -- Being 300
miles away makes ~that~ a real inconvenience!)  So I finally get to the
courtroom.  The prosecuting atty ~never even shows up~!!!!  Turns out
she signed a plea bargain that morning!  I didn't even need to be
there!  (I wore a suit, her lawyer didn't...  He asked me if ~I~ was the
prosecuting attorney!!!)  Somewhere in the court proceedings, the
secretary had lost my damage estimates, so neither lawyer knew anything
about te loss.  That was ~supposed~ to be a restitution issue, but was
too late by the time I brought it to their attention.  I was kinda hot.
She plead guilty to DUI and Assault (No idea where ~that~ charge came
from) and basically got her wrist slapped.
So, I go across town to the ~other~ courthouse and file small claims
against her.  For the full $2500, plus all associated court costs, etc.
Told the secretary she could be served on the following Wed, since I had
it on ~good~ authority she'd be home (She'd been sentenced to 24 hours
house arrest, since she couldn't be thrown in jail due to her
~disability~ a bad back!  Musta fell down drunk once too often!)  She'd
told me about her "disability" the day after the accident, when I was
trying to squeeze some $$$$ out of her.  She "can't" work.
Now, I've finally gotten her answer to the complaint served against
her, claiming creditor protection through bankruptcy, and inability to
pay due to a "back injury from a head-on" that she alleges happened
~after~ my accident!  Not sure any details on that, so I'll keep my
personal speculations that way.  So, I'm at a standstill on that note.
She does some kind of day care operation for kids, I guess.  I learned
from a close friend recently (her sister is apparantly one of those
kids) that she is claiming this:  She sued ~me~ for $15000 from injuries
in my accident that I'd supposedly caused (I was stopped at a stop light
behind another stopped car when she slammed into me--  Her Fiero left no
skidmarks, I left four of them - four feet long.  The Rockit weighed
just under 4000 lbs empty, close to 4300 that night.  25 mph zone, etc.
You do the math ;)  From this "settlement" she's getting a new van out
of the deal.  Hmm.  Really not sure how she expects to pull ~that~ off,
or even what my next plan of attack should be, but it kinda put me in a
sour mood for a while, too.
So, the moral of the whole story?  As I said earlier, some people just
need to be taken out and shot!  :)  (not that I'm ~bitter~ or anything,
mind you...)
Bill, sounds like you've got a better chance of getting some repair $$$
out of this one, so I wish you the best of luck and a speedy recovery.
I finally got mine looking decent, (then lost the engine) but it still
needs alot of hidden straightenning.  Where do these people learn to
drive anyway?  Well, good luck to yours...

             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
             Box 524               | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Sidney, Montana 59270 | http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "TRBO LVR" (Maybe???:)| '83 Turbo Regal
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Sep 1997 22:50:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: David1756@aol.com
Subject: cutlass fs found on AOL board

JUst found this posted on AOL bulletin board.  Usual statements, I know
nothing about this car and have no interest in it other than thinking a list
member near Detroit might be interested in checking this out, it sounds OK.

Subj:  For Sale-1974 Olds Cutlass
Date:  97-09-23 16:42:00 EDT
From:  JFisher510

1974 Olds Cutlass Supreme 2 dr HT, speedometer 71,000 miles, one owner, very
elderly lady,
(honestly-she is my wife's mother) reasonably good condition-body not so
hot(needs work) engine
seems to be in good condition(she changed the oil every 3000 miles). Great
 for those who like to work on cars.  This will be an antique in the not too
distant future.  $1600.00.  Greater Detroit area( Waterford ).  E-mail
JFisher @ aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Sep 1997 23:57:24 -0400
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: no-oil engine runs

It was loud, too. I got tired of listening to it, and
> > > hit the valves with a hammer until it finally died. Heh.
> > > --
> >
> > Wow, Chris...have you been taking lessons from F*rd mechanics?
> >
> > S. D. Ward
> >
> I didn't think F*rd mechanics even needed a hammer....:)

Of course they do...they use BFH's (big (ahem) hammers) on everything!
But they use them different from other mechanics...the F*rd boys use
them to fix what the factory f**ked up!

S.D. Ward

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 03:53:19 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: After 13 years... IT'S ALIVE!!! (and leaking like a poorly-trained
puppy)

She runs! After a 13 year hibernation, my SX was living and breathing under
it's own power once again. I redid the fuel tank and rubber lines (the hard
line is corroded on the outside, so I'll have to keep an eye on it for gas
seeping out), and installed the exhaust last night (the repro setup
w/trumpets as sold by Fusick's, very complete, and the fit was virtually
*perfect*; highly recommended for $325. I even got the tailpipe hangers to
work with the trumpets in place). Today, I sorted out some misc. wiring, put
a couple fresh gallons in the tank, and fired her up.

The fact that the engine ran was not such a miracle, since it was running in
the Toro I pulled it out of two months ago, but still, it was a rush to turn
the key and actually have it do something! Of course, I've now discovered
that my radiator has MAJOR leaks, so needs to be recored or replaced, and
I've got an oil hemmorage at the oil filter mount, so off it comes tomorrow
for another gasket and some careful torquing (or maybe another adapter, if
this one is cracked or something). The absolute last thing to go on this car
will be the front fenderwells; fixing these leaks would be a nightmare if
they were in place. I'm still wondering if the car will move under its own
power, since the tranny has been sitting for 13 years as well. I guess
that's something I'll find out soon enough, though...

Also, while under there doing the gas tank and exhaust, I replaced the
too-short aftermarket U-joint U-bolts with some NOS ones that Everett Horton
had ($5/pair, real fair price); finally, ones that were long enough! A bit
of Loctite on there, and we're good to go.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 03:53:25 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: There's my car!

>>> I will have to check out the National Lampoon Vacation movies with Chevy
>>> Chase and see what year Custom Cruiser the Griswold's were driving;-)
>>
>>Sorry, that would be a Ford Country Squire instead.
>
>I tried to figure out what kind of car Mr. Chase is driving in this movie,
>and I think that, while it does look like a Ford or Mercury wagon, I got
>the impression that it was deliberately disguised to not look like any
>brand of car in particular.

Yeah, no cars came with quad headlights on EACH SIDE... Pretty clearly one
of those boxy LTD thingies, though, despite the heavy disguise...

Olds related; didn't he trade in an Olds wagon for that "family truckster",
and demand it back when the new car wasn't to his satisfaction? Of course,
when he went to go start the Olds, it was now 6" tall...
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 03:53:22 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: B/U lites required?

>>BTW, I'm still looking for a console-shifter mounted neutral-safety/backup
>>light switch for my non-dual-gate floor shifter for my early-production '70
>>SX. I need the switch and the rod that connects it to the shifter handle,
>>and maybe the mounting bracket. Mine self-destructed ages ago, and is
>>missing completely (I've soldered the starter wires together, but need the
>>backups to work for inspection).
>
>Doc, ck your MVCode if you have not already done so. I was reading MI's, and 
it
>seems that B/U lites are optional, NOT mandatory. Allowed but not required.

Yeah, I think they kind of make up the rules as they go along here in RI;
I'll check the list the Goodyear place gave me for my last inspection and
see if the B/U lights were checked. I would like everything to be
operational, considering everything else I've been doing to the car.
Luckily, Everett's got a backup light coming in for me from CA, so I hope to
be all set, as long as that rod is making the trip as well...
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 03:53:27 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: '70 CS headlight wiring; where's it routed?

The shop manual is no help on this one, so I'll ask someone here on the list
with a '70-'72 Cutlass: where on the radiator support is the front wiring
harness to the headlights and turn signals routed? I see a hole on the
support on the driver's side, right near the battery; does the wiring go
through there, and in front of the A/C condensor, attaching to the horns
along the way, or does it mount above the upper part of this front support,
just under the top radiator cover?
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 00:16:56 -0400
From: "John Richmond" <richmond@tir.com>
Subject: Found Olds Cutlass body man

Tonight I was out driving my 72 442 and I noticed a
beautiful 71 blue/white conv. parked in a parking lot.
So I turned around to check it out. While I was looking
it over the owner came out from the store, he was an
older retired man. He says he has owned over 30
Cutlass's and specializes in Cutlass body work.
He gave me his name and phone number and said to
call him when I wanted to get some body work done.
I told him he will be hearing from me sometime soon.

I couldn't believe I could find someone who specializes
it Cutlass body work close to home, this is great!!!

John Richmond
richmond@tir.com
Warren, MI
72 442/455

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Sep 97 22:15:23 PDT
From: "chris smetana" <chris@abcs.com>
Subject: CC'ing cylinder heads

I know we discussed this topic several months ago, but I don't remember the
outcome/conclusion other than checking your local chemistry store for a buret.
Well, I was looking thru my July Car Craft and in the back on page 113 there is
a company that sells head CC kits.  Their name is Powerhouse Products and they
have several kits.  Phone number is 1-800-872-7223.  Don't have any association
with this company or any insight, just wanted to pass along some possibly 
useful
information.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
chris@abcs.com

1969 Cutlass W-31
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 00:27:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: rebuilding olds 403

In a message dated 97-09-26 05:24:21 EDT, you write:

<< >  > 1/4 mile 9.88@134.6mph @9371rpm
 >  >
 >  > Gross hp 938
        ^^^^^^ flywheel
 >  > Net hp 694
        ^^^^ tires
 >
 > Sorry but I am very confused by the times. A Buick GN with a 4.1 V6
 > thats been modified to less than 800 hp, Level10 200R4, or TH400,
 > Art Carr 9" convertor (about 3-3.5K stall) 29" slicks w/3.73 rear, etc,
 > will run low nines all day at less than 7000 rpm. Actually I believe
 > that about 700 hp will bring it solidly into the nine at 3400 pounds.
 > Why does the 403 have to work so hard to do nines???TIM

 First don't GNs come with a 3.8 V6(I guess being modified explains the
 4.1). Two a GN with less than 800hp at the flywheel or the tires? Three I
 posted 3500 lbs. car and 200 lbs. driver for a total of 3700 lbs. which
 would probable slow the car down 2-3 tenths compared to 3400 lbs.. I've got
 a formula some where to figure required hp required for a certain e.t. but
 of course I can't find it, but the Edelbrock catalog does have a formula to
 find hp required for mph. I figure you need 709.69922 hp to run 135 mph in
 the 1/4 with a total weighed of 3700 lbs. according to the formula. >>

First a stock GN does have a 3.8 but alot of people are building 4.1.  Two
the 800hp is in reference and comparison to 938 at the flywheel, not the
rear wheels. Three refers to a 3400 pound car, not car and driver so that
would only be a hundred pound difference. In everything I wrote I only asked
one question... > Why does the 403 have to work so hard to do nines???TIM

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Sep 1997 23:31:57 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: bummed about my leak

Technically, I don't know, but logically I would imagine it would,
you got fresh new lifters in there its going to get better response
with the cam rolling around, so, therefore, I would imagine it would
increase the response on things.

>
> Yes, indeed it is aluminum--a Performer Olds by Edelbrock 2151.  I ran it
again > this > afternoon and no problems. > > Also, I might be imagining things
but it seems to have better throttle > response, revs > up quicker.  I wonder 
if
its possible for high quality lifters to make that > kind of difference..... > 
>
 > > >Was it an aluminum intake by chance? If thats the case, you have to >
>retorque again after 10 min of engine running, (found this out in Car > >Craft
magazine, the article about low cost bolt on hp) > > Todd Morris > 71 442 > -
------------------------------------------------------- Mike Krumwiede - MIS
Technician Highland Community College Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us -
------------------------------------------------------- "Every man dies...not
every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Sep 1997 21:21:03 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Vote for Olds

><< I just did....5 times!
> (I have a few different e-mail addresses)
I used all my friends addresses that I could remember (4 of them) today too
:-)


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Sep 1997 21:25:07 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Olds Movies

OK, OK, Beverly Hills Cop is on and he's driving that lovely red '68
convertible - I never saw white interior that WHITE.


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Sep 97 22:24:57 PDT
From: "chris smetana" <chris@abcs.com>
Subject: Re: After 13 years... IT'S ALIVE!!! (and leaking like a poorly-trained
puppy)

> She runs! After a 13 year hibernation, my SX was living and breathing under
> it's own power once again. I redid the fuel tank and rubber lines (the hard

Congrats Dr. Bob.  It's a good feeling isn't it!
I've been working on my GTO for 2 years and it's still in tons of pieces, but
someday I hope to have that special feeling when I turn the key for the first
time.  As for my W-31, well it runs but burns oil.  So when I rebuild the motor
I know that will be a great feeling when I start her up for the first time.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
chris@abcs.com

1969 Cutlass W-31 aka 'the new Bond car'
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 00:44:45 -0400
From: Rich Inacker <rinacker@voicenet.com>
Subject: Re: Knock Sensor

>My '86 442, 120,000 miles, doesn't burn oil( engine good shape, etc.)
>knocks in about the 1600-2000  rpm range.  This is most prevalent when hot,
>and the engine is under more load (A/C or a hill).

[snip]

>It has been suggested to me that the Knock Sensor (retards timing if
>knocking?) could be on the fritz.

The knock sensor is a piezoelectric element that essentially "listens" for
the frequency transients characteristic of engine detonation. If you are
experiencing audible knock, then the knock sensor/electronic spark control
module system is either not functioning properly or the degree of knock is
greater than the system can compensate for. Typically, the ECM can retard
timing as much as 20 degrees to eliminate knock.

Loss of knock sensor signal (broken wire) to the ESC or loss of ground at
the ESC module would cause the ECM to ignore knock. Loss of ESC signal to
the ECM, however, would cause the ECM to constantly pull back the timing
and should set a trouble code (43, I think). The actual knock sensor
elements themselves are pretty hardy.

I'd check the connection to the knock sensor and the grounding of the ESC
module. Also, might want to have a look at the vacuum lines to the exhaust
gas recirculation valve (EGR) and any associated wiring. Part throttle
knock is often caused by a stuck EGR valve. Yet another possibility is a
faulty coolant temperature sensor. If the sensor is off, the ECM will be
providing fuel/spark values for the wrong engine conditions.

Hope this helps...

Rich

- -----
rinacker@voicenet.com (Rich Inacker)
http://www.voicenet.com/~rinacker

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Sep 1997 21:33:27 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: There's my car!

Yes Yes - that was a Vista Cruiser (72 or so vintage) at the beginning of
the first Vacation movie, even my other half who's NOT car literate
recognized it (wow, must have had his glasses on for a change) and started
yelling at me to come look (it was gone by then of course but I caught it
the next time the movie came on).  That movie always reminds me of a former
employer, their name was Wyatt and we used to call it Wyatt World (not
Wally World) it was about as nuts a place to work.


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Sep 1997 21:24:00 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Olds Music

Everytime I hear the new Rolling Stones song's lyrics "Anybody seen my
baby, anybody seen my ride" I think of my cars......although that's not
what Mick is talking about (he probably phrased it that way cause he can't
recall the name of his most current one!!!)


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 00:19:41 -0500
From: dnewman@wcbi.com (Doug Newman)
Subject: Re: (Bad) Luck of the Irish   (long)

Bill, I hope everything goes ok with your '85.  And Charley, I can't believe
that idiot had the nerve to sue YOU when the accident report shows that she
was blitzed out of her mind.  (Man, I'm already paranoid about driving my
'87 in traffic.  Stories like this only make it worse.)  Guess I can back it
out and dust it every so often...

Doug Newman
Columbus, MS
1987 442

http://www.442.com/newman.html  (Updated by Bryceman 9/18/97)
http://wcbi.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 02:43:31 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: Found Olds Cutlass body man

<While I was looking it over the owner came out from the store, he was
an older retired man. He says he has owned over 30  Cutlass's and
specializes in Cutlass body work.  He gave me his name and phone number
and said to call him when I wanted to get some body work done.
>I told him he will be hearing from me sometime soon.  I couldn't
believe I could find someone who specializes it Cutlass body work close
to home, this is great!!!>



His name is Joe and he lives off of 16 mile road and moravian area
right?

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 97 3:00:29 EDT
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: bummed about my leak

At 09:38 PM 9/27/97 -0400, you wrote:
>No results yet on the ticking.  That occurs only after sustained cruising at
>2700RPM+ and
>under load.  I'll test that once I change the engine oil, again.

   Before changing that oil again if you haven't already, check that the
ticking isn't coming from the fuel pump.  It's not at all uncommon for a
fuel pump arm to have a slow deactuation to the point where the cam lobe
ends up running into the pump arm before it fully deactuates. The pump will
usually work fine in a case like this under normal street driving
conditions.  One way to pin point where that tick is coming from is to use
the 'old piece of a broom stick to the ear' method. By positioning this
crude but effective stethoscope at various points you can locate the
vacinity of the problem.  If your not accustomed to utilizing this type of
'high tech' devise, let me caution you to be aware of maintaining clearance
of this tool from any moving parts so as not to get BONKED in the head a
couple of times.

  Glenn
  '69 4-4-2 .... and runnin' tough

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 09:04:26 -0400
From: Al Barlow <iamoz@ime.net>
Subject: Oil Pan Help

I own a 1971 Olds 442 convertible with a 455 automatic and have oil leaking
around the gasket attaching the oil pan to the engine. My question is this,
can I change this gasket without removing the engine? Any help would be
appreciated.

Al Barlow
1971 Olds 442 convertible
Thomaston, Maine

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 09:23:32 -0400
From: Al Barlow <iamoz@ime.net>
Subject: Rechroming Bumpers

I know I have asked this question before, however my old e-mail was
accidently deleted so I need to ask again. Can anyone tell me the name and
e-mail address of the person on this list that rechromes bumpers. If I
remember correctly, it was a reasonable price with what others on the list
were saying was a very good job. Also, I would like to know how are the
bumpers packaged, shipped and approximate cost. I am looking to rechrome my
front and rear bumpers off my 1971 Olds 442 convertible. They are in good
shape now but I would like them to be as new. Thanks for your help.

Al Barlow
1971 Olds 442 convertible
Thomaston, Maine

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 16:20:52 +0200
From: "archy van wely" <usicon@pi.net>
Subject: help help help!

Hi all,
My brother is next month in san fransisco for an exercise with brittain sas
and US navy seals and I want to let him bring back rubber door sealers for
me.Because I cannot order them by oldsmobile europe.
But I havent got a idea what I should give him along to say to the dealer.
Has anybody an idea how to order door sealers with a dealer without having
the dealer search the universe for it.
I guess he has little time so it would be perfect to order it ahead or
something like that.
Can anyone please advice me?
Greetings from archy
Holland
olds delta 88 royale town sedan 1976

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 10:19:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: Re: There's my car!

I also saw the "demolitian man" car. It was pretty nice but it didn't have
red inner fender panels. I also noticed that it said it had a 400 in it. I
wonder if that car was really a w30???

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 09:22:00 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: Rechroming Bumpers

My Dad knows a place that will re-chrome, but to me, seems kinda
expensive, its $400.00 per bumper, maybe that is a good price, but,
my bumpers on my 77 seem fine, when I am rich and famous, I will get
em re-chromed, until then, guess I will keep a bee line handy to the
junkyard. :) if this seems a reasonable price, I can get more
detailed info for you.

> I know I have asked this question before, however my old e-mail was
> accidently deleted so I need to ask again. Can anyone tell me the name and
> e-mail address of the person on this list that rechromes bumpers. If I
> remember correctly, it was a reasonable price with what others on the list
> were saying was a very good job. Also, I would like to know how are the
> bumpers packaged, shipped and approximate cost. I am looking to rechrome my
> front and rear bumpers off my 1971 Olds 442 convertible. They are in good
> shape now but I would like them to be as new. Thanks for your help.
>
> Al Barlow
> 1971 Olds 442 convertible
> Thomaston, Maine
>
>
>
- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 09:26:17 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: Oil Pan Help

I never have tried on a 71 before, but on my 77 cutlass, the oil pan
is shallow for most of its lenght, and then goes deep by the Trainy,
I took the motor mount bolts out, and then just raised the engine
about 2 1/2 to 3 inches up, (without loosing the line up of the bolt
holes, any farther and I think I would have been jiggling the engine
for a while trying to line them up again) I was able to change it
from there, it was a tight fit, but able to do it, if you have a
gradual slope pan, I dont know if that will be that easy, hope this
helps.

> I own a 1971 Olds 442 convertible with a 455 automatic and have oil leaking
> around the gasket attaching the oil pan to the engine. My question is this,
> can I change this gasket without removing the engine? Any help would be
> appreciated.
>
> Al Barlow
> 1971 Olds 442 convertible
> Thomaston, Maine
>
>
- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 09:28:47 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: Oil Pan Help

Forgot this in the last message, have you re-torqued the bolts yet?
Sometime with age they just need to be re-torqued, that this happen
around my timeing chain cover, was able to just re-torque em and
havn't had any problems since. One mine, I used a long 1/2 open end
wrench.

> I own a 1971 Olds 442 convertible with a 455 automatic and have oil leaking
> around the gasket attaching the oil pan to the engine. My question is this,
> can I change this gasket without removing the engine? Any help would be
> appreciated.
>
> Al Barlow
> 1971 Olds 442 convertible
> Thomaston, Maine
>
>
- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 09:30:21 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: Knock Sensor

God, I'm glad I don't have all that electrical sh*t. Sorry, to me its
seems more work than its worth, but, I am sure they are alot more
efficient.


> >My '86 442, 120,000 miles, doesn't burn oil( engine good shape, etc.)
> >knocks in about the 1600-2000  rpm range.  This is most prevalent when hot,
> >and the engine is under more load (A/C or a hill).
>
> [snip]
>
> >It has been suggested to me that the Knock Sensor (retards timing if
> >knocking?) could be on the fritz.
>
> The knock sensor is a piezoelectric element that essentially "listens" for
> the frequency transients characteristic of engine detonation. If you are
> experiencing audible knock, then the knock sensor/electronic spark control
> module system is either not functioning properly or the degree of knock is
> greater than the system can compensate for. Typically, the ECM can retard
> timing as much as 20 degrees to eliminate knock.
>
> Loss of knock sensor signal (broken wire) to the ESC or loss of ground at
> the ESC module would cause the ECM to ignore knock. Loss of ESC signal to
> the ECM, however, would cause the ECM to constantly pull back the timing
> and should set a trouble code (43, I think). The actual knock sensor
> elements themselves are pretty hardy.
>
> I'd check the connection to the knock sensor and the grounding of the ESC
> module. Also, might want to have a look at the vacuum lines to the exhaust
> gas recirculation valve (EGR) and any associated wiring. Part throttle
> knock is often caused by a stuck EGR valve. Yet another possibility is a
> faulty coolant temperature sensor. If the sensor is off, the ECM will be
> providing fuel/spark values for the wrong engine conditions.
>
> Hope this helps...
>
> Rich
>
> -----
> rinacker@voicenet.com (Rich Inacker)
> http://www.voicenet.com/~rinacker
>
>
>
- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 09:33:18 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: Olds Music

Every time I hear Sammy Hagar "I can't drive 55" on the radio, I
usually turn my radar detector up as loud as it can go to hopefully
hear it over the steroe,....and engine comming to life roar as I
watch my spedometer get higher and higher and higher.....:)


> Everytime I hear the new Rolling Stones song's lyrics "Anybody seen my
> baby, anybody seen my ride" I think of my cars......although that's not
> what Mick is talking about (he probably phrased it that way cause he can't
> recall the name of his most current one!!!)
>
>
> Lisa Madsen
> Anaheim, CA
>
> '64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
> Cruiser
>
> Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com
>
> My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/
>
> Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
> Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/
>
> *** NEW ***
> Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
> http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/
>
- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 09:41:39 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: There's my car!

Yes, it sure seemed real to me, I guerentee they suped it up for the
movie a bit, always do, ever notice on the Dukes of Hazard how you
still heard tire squeeling noises...on gravel....:) (If I remember
correctly, they had over 1,000 different Chargers they went through
durring the shows durration, (Hot Rod magazine issue a few months ago
had an article on it, they found the original Charger first used in
the series all banged up to hell, they were restoring it) I almost
cried seing the bad guys shooting at the car, thats cruelty to
animals, (my dream car is to have a 70 w30 convertible, my 77 cutlass
supreme hrd top will have to do for now)

> I also saw the "demolitian man" car. It was pretty nice but it didn't have
> red inner fender panels. I also noticed that it said it had a 400 in it. I
> wonder if that car was really a w30???
>
- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 09:50:39 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: 77-->70 engine swapout update

OK, after 3 different motor mounts, and 5 days later, I finally got
the 70 buick 350 in my 77 cutlass, thanks for some of your tips,
unfortunatly, they yahoo who sold me the car made alot of suttle
changes I wasn't aware of,(i.e moved motor mounts when changed other
engine, forgot to put cross member bolts back in, so engine kept
leaning sideways, ect) (this is the same guy who used a 2x4 for
a rear spring, had the timing set all the way back to 0 when it was
supposed to be at 16, and had the carb all the way to rich, plugs
gapped at 25, when they are supposed to be at 60, and vacume lines
looping back in and out of each other aimlessly, and couldnt figure
out why it backfired alot....) So, now I need a larger Driveshaft
yoke for the TH-400 I put in it, (someone informed me already, thank
you for that tip, saved me some time, got a junkyard who has one now)
put all the external stuff like altanator, exhaust, and fuel lines,
ect back on, and hopefully have it running again by this evening,
anyone have any other suggestions or problems that I may run into? (
I know I will have to re-route fule line, fuel pump on other side
now, ect) any additional information would be appreciated, while my
Mom still lets me borrow her car to get parts. :) Thanks again to all
of you, it helped me alot.

- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 11:09:09 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Douglas J Harkema" <harkema2@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Re: Found Olds Cutlass body man

John
Can you give me his number and name?
I live in Lansing MI

Thaks
Doug H

70 CS Conv't

harkema2@pilot.msu.edu


>
> I couldn't believe I could find someone who specializes
> it Cutlass body work close to home, this is great!!!
>
> John Richmond
> richmond@tir.com
> Warren, MI
> 72 442/455
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 08:45:52 -0700
From: "Mike Aldana" <maldana@digitalwave.net>
Subject: Chromeplating hobbyist pricing

Now chroming and repairing pot metal with excellent results. Bumpers
typically cost from $180.00 to $220.00 your core. Price includes
straightening, stripping, and silver paint on the back of bumpers.
Turnaround time is now 2 weeks.
Satisfaction guaranteed always. References available cross country.
   For more info email to
maldana@digitalwave.net    sincerely   Mike Aldana

Mike Aldana
417 Encinas Ave.
Calexico Ca. 92231


760-357-0713    early morning best

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 11:48:41 -0400
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: Re: Oil Pan Help

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_01BCCC04.7794B0A0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
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Al,
Chilton manual ª5974 covers this in detail. It is pretty involved or
I would have sent it . No need to pull motor - just raise engine - drop pan
half way - remove oil pickup - then work pan down complete.

The General

> I own a 1971 Olds 442 convertible with a 455 automatic and have oil
leaking
> around the gasket attaching the oil pan to the engine. My question is
this,
> can I change this gasket without removing the engine? Any help would be
> appreciated.
>

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 12:14:31 -0400
From: "deirdre. reilly" <102724.635@compuserve.com>
Subject: Finally some good news

Good morning Oldsmophiles,

I just finished working on my dead Ciera and got that running again, thank
God it wasn't anything major.  I didn't even have to buy anything for it,
just fixed it with some wire I already had!  My father talked to our
mechanic to find out what those fusable links looked like and where they
are located.  Sure enough, one of those was fried.  I also found the wire
that shorted everything out, the thick purple wire leading to my starter
melted against the power steering lines. So I spliced in some new wire for
the fusable link and taped up the other wire.  Then used some zip ties to
hold the wires away from anything hot.  I wish everything would be this
easy sometimes!!

And on the other front, my Cutlass Supreme seems to have fixed itself,
somewhat like Steven King's "Christine". (SPOOKY)  Those 5mph bumper
pistons behind the bumper seemed to have really worked.  It repostioned
itself and looks almost like nothing had happened.  Nothing looks damaged
besides the plastic headlight housing. Looks like it cracked.  I'm still
gonna take it to a body shop just to be sure, besides I want to get some
money out of the jerk that hit me.

Thanks to anyone that might have replied to my question about the fusable
links in my Ciera, I might see them in the next digest.

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme
'83 Cutlass Ciera

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 12:33:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: CRuper1@aol.com
Subject: Re: Chromeplating hobbyist pricing

In a message dated 97-09-28 11:47:43 EDT, you write:

<<
 Now chroming and repairing pot metal with excellent results. Bumpers
 typically cost from $180.00 to $220.00 your core. Price includes
 straightening, stripping, and silver paint on the back of bumpers.
 Turnaround time is now 2 weeks.
 Satisfaction guaranteed always. References available cross country.
    For more info email to
 maldana@digitalwave.net    sincerely   Mike Aldana

 Mike Aldana
 417 Encinas Ave.
 Calexico Ca. 92231


 760-357-0713    early morning best

  >>
I'll be the next person to find out how good Mike is, I recommended a friend
give him a call.  She has a Volkswagon pick-up, and wanted the rear bumper
chromed (Mike, you probably remember these, they weighed like 10-15 lbs. a
piece, and there were two of them).  She sits next to me at work, and should
be getting them back in the next week, or so.  BTW, Mike's prices were
slightly better than anybody nearby (nearest place was Chicago), and she'd
have to ship it to anywhere they got sent, so that wasn't a factor.  Seems
there aren't many places that like to do chrome work these days...

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 11:44:44 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: 77-->70 engine swapout update

Bummer, overlooked one detail, the fuel pump for the 70 Buick engine
has 3 lines, a bypass line to go back to the Gas tank I would assume,
and my olds engine only had 2 lines, anyone know if I can just cap up
the bypass line on the Buick pump? or other quick fix? Or can I swap
the olds pump for the buick pump? they look about the same, but,
don't want to srew anything else up.

- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 15:36:20 -0400
From: "Terry & Tammy" <dawgs@conninc.com>
Subject: Re: Finally some good news

Bill just keep in mind that once the bumper shocks have been compressed
they will leak and never work again! A small bump will compress them
now. Just so you know.

Terry Teague
68 Delta Custom

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 15:46:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: Seano42369@aol.com
Subject: Hurst Olds

I just purchased an '84 Hurst Olds, and I would like to know where to look
for any
information ( NOS parts,test data, clubs, anything!). Any suggestions would
be
greatly appreciated.

Thank You
Seano42369@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 97 13:57:45 PDT
From: "chris smetana" <chris@abcs.com>
Subject: Carb numbers-what do I have

All right ladies and gentlemen, I have a question concerning the carb on my
W-31.  I while back I posted a message about a ~supposed~ correct number carb
for my 69 W-31 I had found from someone in Texas.  The q-jet that should be
original is 7029255.  The one the guy found was a q-jet with 29255.  Now while
this carb would probably work, Dr. Bob pointed out that if I'm looking for a
7029255 and I had bought this 29255 I would always know that it might not be
correct since I've always expected q-jets to start with a 70 or 170.  (Thanks
Dr. Bob you for your insight as I passed on the carb since I really do want a
7029255) Ok, so now I finally decide to get off my butt and double check which
carb I do have on the car currently.  Originally I thought I had a q-jet from a
mid 70's chevy.  Well, stupied me, I confused the W-31 and the 67 Pontiac 400
for my GTO. (Yeah I know what was I thinking)  The GTO motor actually has the
chevy q-jet and the W-31 has a q-jet numbered ...(drum roll please).... 29255.
Yes that same number again.  So I'm pondering what I should do.  The current
29255 carb on the car has a bad accel pump.  I also have an Edelbrock q-jet 
with
electric choke that's fine.  The car is obviously hard to start and the 29255
should be rebuilt, but I've never rebuilt a carb.  What are some of your 
peoples
suggestions?  Some of the things I've considered (both temporarily and
permanent) are 1. Rebuild the current 29255 carb (if it's considered ~original
equipment~) as I only want to rebuild 1 carb  2. Temporarily replace the 29255
with the e'brock q-jet until I find a correct carb.  If I ! do this I need to
figure out where to wire up the electric choke as splicing into any wiring is
out of the question.  Would I even need the choke wired up if I only want to
start the car every few weeks to circulate the fluids?  3.  Find another olds
q-jet to temporarily put on until I find a correct carb.  I've currently 
located
a 7041250 from a local speed shop, but it looks like it's been sitting for a
while as it's covered in grass and cobwebs, so it should probably be rebuilt 
but
like I said earlier I would really like to only rebuild 1 carb. To further
confuse me/you/us whatever, I have a 72 455 thats been rebuilt that will be
swaped into the car TEMPORARILY as the original motor needs a rebuild.  This
carb will also go on this 455 temporarily so I can drive the car more than the
approx 1 mile I've put on it since I bought it over a year ago.  So I guess it
boils down to do I have the correct carb, should I put on the e'brock q-jet and
look for a 7029255 or what???

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
chris@abcs.com

1969 Cutlass W-31 with the correct?/original? carb
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 16:17:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: DEOVIVERE@aol.com
Subject: Re: Fan Clutches.

In a message dated 97-09-27 20:20:14 EDT, you write:

<<  Is there any kind of break-in period for new fan clutches?? I installed
 > one about 2 months ago on my '86 442.  It was really noisy all the time,
 > I thought maybe it would quite down a little with use, but hasn't.  It
 > sound like I am ready for take off whenever I get the engine over 2500
 > RPM.  Thanks for any input...
 > --
 > ---Matt
 > Chicago, IL >>

Matt -

The faMy 71 Cutlass has

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 16:21:54 -0400
From: "John Richmond" <richmond@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Found Olds Cutlass body man

Yea, your right. You must know the guy.

John Richmond
richmond@tir.com
Warren, MI
72 442/455


- ----------
> From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Found Olds Cutlass body man
> Date: Sunday, September 28, 1997 2:43 AM
>
> <While I was looking it over the owner came out from the store, he was
> an older retired man. He says he has owned over 30  Cutlass's and
> specializes in Cutlass body work.  He gave me his name and phone number
> and said to call him when I wanted to get some body work done.
> >I told him he will be hearing from me sometime soon.  I couldn't
> believe I could find someone who specializes it Cutlass body work close
> to home, this is great!!!>
>
>
>
> His name is Joe and he lives off of 16 mile road and moravian area
> right?
>
> RC Hellebuyck
> 1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 14:44:46 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: rebuilding olds 403

> First a stock GN does have a 3.8 but alot of people are building 4.1.  Two
> the 800hp is in reference and comparison to 938 at the flywheel, not the
> rear wheels. Three refers to a 3400 pound car, not car and driver so that
> would only be a hundred pound difference. In everything I wrote I only asked
> one question... > Why does the 403 have to work so hard to do nines???TIM

Umm, doesn't ~everything~ have to work really hard to do nines???  Some
unmentioned differences here might be track conditions, altitude,
atmospheric conditions, driver habits, etc.  High 13's in Havre were low
15's in Lewistown.  Same cars, same drivers, etc.  Get different drivers
in there and the difference can be even more pronounced.  Any
consideration given to rear gearing?  7000 HP will still yield 15's if
geared poorly.  I imagine torque curves will add a more ~technical~
difference here, as well.  Internal reciprocating weights (often called
pistons and rods) are quite likely differences, as well.  I guess the
same question can be asked of the ~other~ manufacturers:  Why can a
stock 350 che*y run 15's when a stock 350 Rocket will turn 14's in a
similar car?  Why is it always cold and windy on your days off?  Why
does it really matter?  The same reason my 455 Buick Stage I would smoke
my 455 Rocket, but get eaten up by my 425 Super Rocket.  It happens --
Sh** happens.

If you're looking for a purely technical answer, I'd say the answer lies
in power curves.  If two different engines both produce 750 hp, in
identical cars, but one will be able to reach that peak hp quicker, that
one will get off the line better, and have a lower 60'.  And
consequently have a lower ET, providing both have the same gears, tires,
driver, etc.

As others have mentioned, that Turbo does an awful lot for the V6, too.
Makes it act like much more that a 4.1L.  What was the quote?  CID in
the high 400's?  Tell me that ain't working hard!  Of course a ~little~
403 is going to have to work a bit harder to keep up with that.

Regardless of the engine combintation, regardless of the et's,
regardless of the $$$$$$$$$ involved, ~anything~ turning even 600
horsepower is working really hard, so I'd leave it at that.
- --

             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
             Box 524               | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Sidney, Montana 59270 | http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "TRBO LVR" (Maybe???:)| '83 Turbo Regal
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 14:57:35 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Finally some good news

So I spliced in some new wire for
> the fusable link and taped up the other wire.

You'd be well advised to replace that chunk of wire with some form of
fuseing.  That's the only thing standing between a short circuit and a
vehicle fire.  It can happen ~too~ easily.  If you do keep running that
straight wire in there, keep a ~close~ eye on it and all of its
associated circuits.  Just be careful, at least.

> And on the other front, my Cutlass Supreme seems to have fixed itself,
> somewhat like Steven King's "Christine". (SPOOKY)  Those 5mph bumper
> pistons behind the bumper seemed to have really worked.  It repostioned
> itself and looks almost like nothing had happened.  Nothing looks damaged
> besides the plastic headlight housing. Looks like it cracked.  I'm still
> gonna take it to a body shop just to be sure, besides I want to get some
> money out of the jerk that hit me.
>

Good to know that's gonna recover OK.  One of the chumps that did an
estimate on mine lost a lot of respect from the start.  Looked out the
window and asked what year monte carlo that was!  P**sed me off from the
start!  Then proceeded to tell me that he couldn't get an accurate
estimate because his book only went back to '82.  ~INSISTED~ that an 82
taillight would ~not~ fit on my car!  I quoted him every part ª he
needed to use, and after some arguing, he finally wrote it down.  Then
he looked under the car, and said the body damage must have been old
damage because the shocks hadn't been compressed, because there were no
scratches on the shocks there.  That ~really~ p**sed me off, because two
days earlier, the entire bumper was up against the shock stops!  A quick
peek to the top of the shocks in there showed strong scratches
throughout the entire upper surface of them.  He had the lowest estimate
of all of them, but I wouldn't trust that nut to even open my hood!  So,
I left and never considerred going back there...


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
             Box 524               | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Sidney, Montana 59270 | http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "TRBO LVR" (Maybe???:)| '83 Turbo Regal
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª874
********************************
