To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #855


oldsmobile-digest      Friday, September 19 1997      Volume 01 : Number 855



Re: Gears
Re: SB42/ California Smog
Re: Reving the Olds 403
Re: fuses: fusebox vs. manual
'66 Cutlass Convertible Trim Needed.
83 Hurst Cheap
Tech Question
Re: Speed Racer
PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale
Re: Speed Racer
Re: Slow night with some car humor- Non Olds
Re: Twin batteries
TicTocTac
HEI Conversion
Re: (`80 Cutlass) My latest set of wheels.
Re: HEI Conversion
Re: Drving experience..the imp ss driver
Re: SB42/ California Smog
Re: 400 vs. 425 vs. 455
Re: Tech Question
OAI hoods
Re: A better mechanical fuel pump
Sport Wheel
Re: Twin batteries
Re: HEI Conversion
Re: Speed Racer
Re: 4 spd/ turbo 400 swap help
The Whiners
body parts
Re: 400 vs. 425 vs. 455
Re: 4 spd/ turbo 400 swap help
Re: Gas tank interchange: '70 and '71 Cutlass
Re: TicTocTac
Re: HEI Conversion
Re: Sport Wheel
Re: Reving the Olds 403
Re: The Whiners
Re: 4 spd/ turbo 400 swap help
Re: 4 spd/ turbo 400 swap help
Re: Sport Wheel
Re: SB42/ California Smog
Unsubscribe please
Re: TicTocTac
RE: MCC on-line voting(olds related)
My 455 ª's (block ID's)
Re: 4 spd/ turbo 400 swap help
Ahem...  (Re: Engine Swapout 76-->70 350)
Re: Surging
Re: Speed Racer
how to bring back that gold shine
Gary's 64 Big Car
Re: Tech Question
AL intake on 307
Re: Sport Wheel

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 16:05:24 -0400
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: Gears

OLDZ69442@aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>    My '69 442 has 3.23 gears, 4spd, A/C, and P24560R14 tires.  Off the line
> it is disappointingly slow!  The 3.23 s have got to go.
>    What do you experienced Olds fans, reccomend?  I want to achieve good
> crisp
> 0---60 performance but I would like to be able to drive 60 on the occasional
> hwy trip,
> without having the motor really screaming.
>    Thanks for your help and suggestions.
>    Bob Iozia
>    Brick, NJ
>    69 442
>    57 Ch*vy (with a 350 and TH350 and 3.55 gears)  much faster than the 442
> off the line.

Try a set of 3.73 or 3.93; you should notice quite a difference,
especially with the latter.  But as you said, you'd still want decent
miles per gallons, and not gallons per mile :o)

3.93's were commonly used in the Corvette rear ends, and shouldn't be
*too* hard to find.  I doubt you'll find them without posi though, but
whether you want it or not is up to you...

S. Dave Ward

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 13:27:30 -0700
From: Erik Nowacki <enowacki@titan.com>
Subject: Re: SB42/ California Smog

At 03:31 PM 9/18/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Any other Californians online know the latest with this bill?  I'd heard that
>it was on the Gov's desk...?
>Coupe King@aol.com
>
You are correct!  It is on uncle Pete's desk for his signature.  The
Assembly amended the bill to exempt cars up to and including the 73 model
year from smog requirements.  In 2003 this will become a rolling 30 year
exemption.  So all of you who own 74's will have to wait until 2004 before
your cars become exempt, sorry.  If uncle Pete signs of on SB-42, it will
become effective 1/1/98.

Those of us who own 73 and prior are quite excited about this smog burden
being lifted.

I'll try to pass along any further info.


Erik Nowacki
San Diego
72 Vista Cruiser

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 12:50:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: CRuper1@aol.com
Subject: Re: Reving the Olds 403

In a message dated 97-09-17 03:40:11 EDT, you write:

<<
 .. If that is what your
 > looking for then a big block is really the way to go. Most out there
 > couldn't tell a 260/403 from a 400/455. You can make them believe about
 > anything.

 So true.  A local kid here (with '81 Cutlass Brougham) has a 350 (2
 block, 8 heads) and claimed that it had been rebuilt, and that it was a
 big block.  I told him he was full of ****.    .......
(story shortened....)
a puzzled look on his face.  I grabbed a tape measure out of my
 pocket (I'd been ~waiting~ for the day!) and stuck it between his valve
 covers and showed him.  "Thirteen.  ~REMEMBER~ that number!"  Still
 carrying his puzzled look, I drug him through the store, out the back
 door, and popped the hood on the Rockit (which just happened to be with
 me that day, and fully equipped with car trailer, to add to the image)
 I popped the hood and stuck the tape down there.  "Notice!  ~FIFTEEN~
 inches.  ~THIS~ is a big block.  YOURS ISN'T.  Get it?  Got it?  Good!"
 (I kinda went off on him, but he needed it, his back bumper's two feet
 off the ground and I ~know~ he doesn't have the torque to back up the
 stance :)  He finally came to the conclusion that I knew what I was
 talking about (Public relations, ya know.  You've ~got~ to earn their
 trust!!!  :)  >>

First, give the guy credit, it had an Olds motor in it at least...  You
really coulda had some fun and offered to "take him" with the Rockit, trailer
in tow and all... <grin>.  Woulda made his day.....

Chris Ruper
'81 Cutlass 455 - Ruper 2 (Rockit's long lost twin?...)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 17:10:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: senko@reston.ans.net (Andrew A. Senko)
Subject: Re: fuses: fusebox vs. manual

> <<Anyway, next to the socket where the fuse goes is the designation "20A".
> Since I had my chassis manual handy, I decided to lookup the fuse specs.
> >According to the manual, this fuse should be an "AGC 25A".>>
>
> Well for safety and the better well being of your wiring harness, use the 
20A.
 >  It should hold ok unless you use everything on that circuit at once and for
a > lengthy time. > > > >So who do you trust?  The fuseblock says 20A and the
manual says 25A.> > > This may be a long shot, but are you sure your looking at
the same fuse block > as your car?  example:  in my 71 manual they picture two
or three different > fuse blocks.  I almost "panicked" at first, until I
realized it was for a > different body. > > RC Hellebuyck > 1971 4-4-2 covt,


RC,

In my manual, I was looking at a table that lists the fuses and their values.
All the rest seem to agree between the fuse block and the manual.  If we're
looking at the same manual, I think it was section-page 12-82.

I'll stick with the 20A based on everyones advice.  Thanks all!
- --
Drew

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 15:41:02 -0600
From: David Jenkins <David@VINCA.COM>
Subject: '66 Cutlass Convertible Trim Needed.

To all,

Thanks for your help on the blue
convertible top for my '66.  I have one
more pressing question for the
restoration of the car. - - Trim for the
exterior sides and wheel wells.  Again,
this is not a 442 but rather a Cutlass
convertible.  Anyone know of good
sources or possible sources?

Thanks again for your input.
Dave Jenkins
david@vinca.com
Orem, Utah
Veritable Car/Truck Menagery - My wife
is patient
'59 Apache - Son ª1 Truck
'66 Olds Cutlass Convert - My baby and
in progress
'66 Barracuda - Daily driver
'67 Corvette Convert - In progress
'68 Cougar XR7 - Son ª2 car not finished
'69 Camaro RS/SS - Finished
'69 Coronet 500 - Just needs paint and
tune up
'73 Camaro RS/Z28 - Son ª3 car completed





























------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 18:03:37 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: 83 Hurst Cheap

I require assistance with the casting numbers of the 83 and 84 hurst olds
intakes
Can someone please H*LP

I don't want to purchase without knowing what the heck I'm buying

Rob Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 18:19:25 -0400
From: Al Barlow <iamoz@ime.net>
Subject: Tech Question

There is a person selling a 4-speed transmission and bellhousing out of a
1972 cutlass. I believe it is a 350 engine. I have a 1971 442 with a 455
and automatic transmission. My question is will this 4-speed mate up to the
455. If not, what is needed to convert this car to a 4-speed. Any help
would be appreciated.

Al Barlow

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 18:27:23 -0400
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: Re: Speed Racer

  Ah come on.  Doesn't anyone remember the show?
>
> Chris
>
>
> P.S.  You know what is even more strange about this series is that
>       I always thought it was a cartoon about an american family.
>       Come to find out they were really Japanese.  The M on the
>       hood stands for Mifune Motors and Speed's Japanese name is
>       "Go".

.....Is that why the song lyrics went "Go speed Racer"

From what I remember the car had automatic jacks - on-demand all traction
tires - underwater mode (snorkel and bubble canopy) - and never had to stop
for
gas

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 19:45:46 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale

                                        C&M Classic Parts
                                      1132 Chatmoss Drive
                                    Virginia Beach, VA 23464
                                         (757)474-0869 or
                                      <chermac@exis.net>
Hours:  Mon-Fri  6:00 pm - 10:00 pm, Sat 9:00 am - 6:00 pm
We NOW accept all major Credit Cards. VISA, Master Card, American Express,
and Discover cards.
New Parts: ____________________________________________________________________
66 442 Side Mount Tach (maroon, works, nice)  $245.00
66 F-85 Post Coupe Doors (very good cond)  $220.00 pr
66 F-85/Cutlass grille  (nice)  $55.00
66 F-85 Trunk Lid  (nice)  $130.00
66 330 cu in 2 bbl engine (complete w/trans, 17,000 original miles)  $350.00
66-67 Clutch Z-Bar  $55.00
66-67 Rear Side window lower U-seals (new, Metro Moulded)  $18.00 pr
66-67 Hardtop Quarters (mint) $450.00 pr
66-67 Coupe Chassis (nice)  $400.00
67 400 442 intake manifolds ª390390  $90.00 ea
67 Cutlass Fender Emblems (nice)  $10.00 ea
67 Plain Cutlass Fender Rockets (nice)  $5.50 ea
67 Rear Defrost setup (w/switch)  $55.00
68-72 Rear Defrost  (no switch)  $30.00
69 Cruise Control Switch and Bezel  $25.00
69 Radiator Core Support 3 Row (mint, no rust holes)  $150.00
15x7 SSIII's (snap on caps no rings) 4  $125.00
70 FLAT Fenders LH/RH (small patch panels installed nice)  $600.00 pr
70 Cutlass Supreme Door Panels (black mint) 4  $100.00
70 OAI Hood (nice) 2 very tiny stress cracks at scoop  $950.00
70-75 Sport Wheels (black with blue, black, center and collar)  $150.00
70-71 Halo Vinyl Top Molding sets no "L " moldings (mint) $55.00 set
70-72 455 Std. Iron intake manifold (auto cars)  $75.00
70-72 Std. Console Shift Lens  (repro)  $23.00 ea
70 Sport Mirrors (nice sets)  $155.00 set
70 Cutlass Supreme Hood (excellent)  $100.00
70 442/SX/Rally 350 Rear Cutout Bumper (CORE)  $110.00
70-72 RH Door (Coupe/Conv)  $125.00
69-72 Bucket Seats (need recovering)  $40.00 pr
69-72 Column Shift Steering Column (plain)  $45.00
64-72 Power Window Motors  (excellent cond) $50.00 ea
71 C/S Door Panels (white w/pwr windows)  $40.00 pr
71-72 W-455 Aluminum intake ((2) 1/8th in repaired cracks) $675.00
71 350 4 bbl Engine (complete, carb to pan, runs excellent) $250.00
68-72 Power Steering setup  (complete)  $60.00
71 Cutlass/442 Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea
Bumper Bracket sets ALL years  $25.00 pr
70-72 455 Engine Mounts (NEW)  $40.00 pr
68-72 350 Engine Mounts (NEW)  $38.00 pr
TH350 Shift Cable Bracket  $15.00

New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts for 1964-1972 Cutlass/442
_______________________________________________
66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea
68-75 SSII/III Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea
69 Cutlass RH Grilles (N.O.S.) $85.00 ea
70 Cutlass Supreme Grilles (N.O.S.)  $120.00 pr
70-72 LH Coupe/Conv Door Skin (N.O.S.)  $200.00
70-72 Cutlass/442 LH Fenders (N.O.S.) $475.00 ea
71-72 Turn Signal Lens (N.O.S.)  $90.00 pr
71-72 Stone Shields (N.O.S.) $38.00 ea
71-72 Headlight Housings (plastic) (N.O.S.) $80.00 pr
71-72 Cutlass Rear Bumpers (N.O.S.) $400.00 ea
71-75  Cutlass Fender Emblems (N.O.S.)  $19.50 ea
72 Cutlass Supreme & Hurst/Olds Grilles (N.O.S.)  $125.00 pr

Used Parts
_______________________________________________
64 Cutlass/442
RH Headlight Bezel  $15.00
Front Bumper Core  $50.00
LH/RH Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea
F-85 Fender Emblem (nice)  $5.00
V-8 Emblem  $5.00

65 Cutlass/442
65 Cutlass/442 Wheelwell Moldings  $20.00 ea
65 Hood Molding (fair cond)  $10.00

66 Cutlass/442
66 Cutlass/442 Hood Molding  (good cond)  $30.00
66-67 AM Radios  (nice)  $30.00 ea
66-67 RH Hardtop Doors (very nice)  $130.00 ea
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
66 Cutlass/442 Full Turbine Hubcaps (very, very nice)  $230.00 set
Cutlass/442 Headlight Bezels  $45.00 pr
LH C/S Rear side molding  $10.00
Post Coupe Exterior A-Pillar Chrome Moldings  $15.00 pr
F-85/Cutlass Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea

67 Cutlass/442
66-67 AM Radios  (nice)  $30.00 ea
66-67 RH Hardtop Doors (very nice)  $130.00 ea
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
67 F-85 Rear Bumper (very good condition)  $75.00
67 442 Grille Bar  (nice)  $40.00
67 442 Hood (some rust)  $85.00
67 Front Bumper (straight, core)  $70.00
67 Cutlass Headlight Bezels (nice)  $65.00 pr
67 442 Trunk Lids (clean)  $130.00 ea
67 442 Pie Tin Decal  $5.00
67 442 Chrome Trunk Panel (excellent)  $135.00
67 442 Tail Light Bezels (some pitting)  $60.00 pr
67 RH Fender (small hole, straight)  $200.00

68 Cutlass/442
68 Hood Hinges  $55.00 pr
68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
68-69 LH Quarter Panel  4 door (mint)  $225.00
68-69 RH Quarter Panel  4 door (mint)  $225.00
68-69 Top Fender Moldings (near windshield, mint)  $40.00 pr
68-72 Cutlass S LH Rear Side Glass (clear)  $35.00
Rear Window Molding Sets  $85.00 set
68 Cutlass/442 Std Horn Button (black, nice)  $7.00
68 Air Cleaner Stove Pipe (pipe only)  $10.00
68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $20.00 ea
68-72 Cowl mouldings  $25.00 ea
68-72 B-Pillar Molding Set (black, mint) $27.50 pr

69 Cutlass/442
69 Lower Dash (radio area)  (nice)  $45.00
69 C/S Side Moldings  $20.00 ea
68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
68-69 LH Quarter Panel 4 door (mint)  $225.00
68-69 RH Quarter Panel 4 door (mint)  $225.00
68-69 Top Fender Moldings (near windshield, mint)  $40.00 pr
69 Cutlass/442 Doors (mint pair)  $300.00 pr / $160.00 ea
Hood Hinges  $50.00 pr
Hood Louver Chrome  $35.00 pr
Hood Louver Moldiings  $35.00 pr
Windshield Molding Sets  $65.00 set
Rear Window Molding Sets  $85.00 set
69-72 Floor Shift Steering Column (very good)  $100.00
69 Cutlass/442 Front Bumper (good cond) $100.00
69 LH Top Fender Moldings (excellent) $35.00
69 LH Fender (tiny rust hole)  $250.00
69 RH Fender (small nickel sized hole)  $250.00
69 Rear Bumper (V05 rub strip) one small ding  $135.00
69 Front and Rear 4 Doors  (small dings, no rust) $75.00 ea
69 4 Door Panels (Gold, cloth, nice)  $40.00 ea

70 Cutlass/442
70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switch Bezels  $5.00 ea
70 RH Sport Mirror Shell  $40.00
70 F-85 Horn Button (cheap style wheel, excellent)  $10.00
70 Oldsmobile Options Folder  $5.00
69-70 C/S Front Hood Rocket (nice)  $12.00
"S" Hood Chrome Vents  $35.00 pr
"S" Hood Vent Moldings  $35.00 pr
"S" Pillared Coupe Door Panels (good cond)  $40.00 pr
Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $100.00
Black A/C Dash Pads  $120.00 ea
Gold Auto Shift Console  $90.00 (no shifter)
70-71 Glove Box Doors  $15.00 ea
70-72 RH Fender (has small patch panel)   $200.00
70 Cutlass 'S' Tail Light Lens   $10.00 ea
70 Cutlass Supreme Tail Light Lens  $15.00 ea
70 Cutlass Supreme Flat Hood   $125.00

71 Cutlass/442
71 Cutlass Full Wheel Covers  $30.00 set
71-72 Sport Mirrors (excellent cond)  $110.00 pr
71-72 Cutlass S/442 Hood Louvers (nice)  $38.00 pr
71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00
71 Front Rocket Emblem (nice)  $5.00

72 Cutlass/442
71-72 10 Bolt 2.56:1 (open rear)  $75.00
71-72 Sport Mirrors (excellent cond)  $100.00 pr
72 Cutlass/442 Owners Manual  $7.00
72 Cutlass Supreme Side Moldings (excellent)  $110.00 set
71-72 Cutlass S/442 Hood Louvers (nice)  $35.00 pr
71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00

We have a ' 71 Supreme Coupe to part out. Rough body. Good drive train. Has
A/C, good dash pad, white rear seat (good), P/S, glass, lots of small stuff.
* Due to the rarity of some parts, we reserve the right to make market
adjustments on prices without notice.

Jim Chermack
OCA ª24275

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 19:50:44 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Speed Racer

Hey Chris,
Check out http://playingmantis.com (the ones that make Johnny
Lightnin').  They are releasing a Speed Racer series...

- --
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 18:31:13 -0500
From: katana72@juno.com (Rob T)
Subject: Re: Slow night with some car humor- Non Olds

When all else fails shut it down and re-boot!!! I guess that would be the
point here>

Katana72          "It's NOT yourDaddy's Oldsmobile !!!!!    Hastings, MN

>> I don't get it !!!!!
>>
>>         The General
>
>Micro$oft reference, implying that when Windows crashes and quits
>running (which seems to be often) the best (or only) remedy is to shut
>it down and start it up again.
>
>I found it quite amusing (esp since I can identify with ~all~ aspects
>of
>the diagnosis!!!)
>             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
>             Box 524               | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
>             Sidney, Montana 59270 | http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
>             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
>             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
>     "TRBO LVR" (Maybe???:)| '83 Turbo Regal
>                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 18:45:09 -0500
From: katana72@juno.com (Rob T)
Subject: Re: Twin batteries

I live in MN and have had little or no problems starting my cutlass in
the winter time. I ONLY have a small 750 CCA battery in it. It worked
fine the last two winters!!! AND NO block heater, either

Katana72          "It's NOT yourDaddy's Oldsmobile !!!!!    Hastings, MN
On Mon, 15 Sep 1997 13:12:14 -0600 (CST) Eric Aksomitis
<aksomi@cs.uregina.ca> writes:
>I would like to know:
>I have two 700 CA batteries (I would like a new 900 CA, but I already
>have these).  One is a multi-post, so I decided to make my own
>two-battery car for winter.  The car is a 72 98, 455, so I could use
>all
>the Amps I can get at -42 Celcius + windchill!
>
>What would the CA's be with two 700's in parralel?  What about the
>voltage drop under load?
>
>Experiences, comments, and ideas are welcome (smaller bateries are so
>much cheaper if they could just turn my car over in the winter, I'd be
>
>laughing)!
>
>BTW, CA = Cranking Amp's
>
>Thanx...
>
>...............self-promo sig file Version 2.2...............
>Eric Aksomitis:
>Virtual Junkyard: Current count -> 5 vehicles
>Oldsmobile Index: Current Count -> 8 vehicles
>http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/       mailto:aksomi@cs.uregina.ca
>Last update: 970912
>..............................................................
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 19:57:07 -0400 (EDT)
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: TicTocTac

Hello, My 1970 has RallyPac Gauges and a tictoctac. The clock in it doesn't
work. My question is has anyone ever had theres made to quartz and is it hard
to do? I have heard that there are kits available. Can you also reccommend
anybody? any help on this topic would be greatly appreciated!
Jim
70 Cutlass W31

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 20:01:12 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: HEI Conversion

I've ~almost~ made the decision to convert to HEI, but have a few
questions:
1) I've heard conflicting stories on this list as to whether or not the
stock aircleaner will fit without denting it.
2) Would it be wiser to get a junkyard HEI or get a rebuilt unit.
Summit carries rebuilts ("remanufactured and blueprinted") for $150
which have a 46K volt coil (what did the HEIs come with)
- --
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 20:01:57 -0400
From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Subject: Re: (`80 Cutlass) My latest set of wheels.

James Thingwold wrote:
>
> Jason says his 'stable' would take up an entire digest - makes me feel 
better!
>
> I'll still gladly admit those Impala SS's make me drool.  Now if Olds put
> out a car like that - I'd probably find a way to buy one.
>

Yeah I have always wondered why they couldn't make an Olds 442 on the
B-body platform (Caprice, Impala, Roadmaster). Take the 4 door version,
put the LT1 in it with the rest of the performance goodies the Impala
gets and I would have bought that car in a minuite. Granted a 2 door
would have been better, but you take what you can get. Even better have
the Northstar engine in it, the Aurora engine would be pretty much a dog
trying to make a car this heavy perform.

********
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio
Quality Engineer - TRW Automotive Group - Valve Division
1995 DCM Impala SS.....my dream car come true
1980 Olds 4-4-2 W-30.....show car..one of 346 produced
1975 Hurst/Olds W-25.....restoration project
1985 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4X4......work truck

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 20:26:14 -0400
From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
Subject: Re: HEI Conversion

Kurt Heinrich wrote:
>
> I've ~almost~ made the decision to convert to HEI, but have a few
> questions:
> 1) I've heard conflicting stories on this list as to whether or not the
> stock aircleaner will fit without denting it.
> 2) Would it be wiser to get a junkyard HEI or get a rebuilt unit.
> Summit carries rebuilts ("remanufactured and blueprinted") for $150
> which have a 46K volt coil (what did the HEIs come with)
> --
> Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
> 71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

Kurt- I have HEI on my 69 442. I had to dent my cleaner. No big
deal...but I have a spare if I decide to convert back.  Wayne

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 20:19:08 -0400
From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Subject: Re: Drving experience..the imp ss driver

RCKTPWR@aol.com wrote:
>
> no offense but its still a chevy.....u dont root for gordon do you??? Whats
> wrong with some nice engine noise????

My Imp will run circles around my 80 442 all day, hell this car raced a
stock restored 69 H/O and only lost by .13 sec weighing more with less
cubes...damn Chevy. Geez here we go again, Can't we just all get along?
And yes I root for Gordon. What am I going to do with myself?

REAL Olds content..thanks to all who replied about my driving lights
going out. Turned out to be several bad fuses that looked perfect...but
didn't work. Pulled an old fuse out of a junker car , stuck the fuse in
then it worked :-)

- --

********
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio
Quality Engineer - TRW Automotive Group - Valve Division
1995 DCM Impala SS.....gets no respect :-)
1980 Olds 4-4-2 W-30.....show car..one of 346 produced
1975 Hurst/Olds W-25.....restoration project
1985 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4X4......work truck

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 20:55:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: DATIC@aol.com
Subject: Re: SB42/ California Smog

Coupe King@aol.com inquires...

<Any other Californians online know the latest with this bill?  I'd heard
that
it was on the Gov's desk...?>


Yo!

     I subs*rib* to the Ca. State Assembly e-mail update program and they
send me
notification whenever there is action on SB-42. The last update I received
was 9/17
saying the bill was "enrolled" on Sept 11, after passing the asm. on 9/09 and
the senate on 9/11. Maybe somebody who knows the workings of the state govt.
can enlighten us as to what "enrolled" means.

     Dave T.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 20:34:54 -0500
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: 400 vs. 425 vs. 455

>
> Which makes the best bracket motor? Any ideas out there?

Light car? Heavy car? Fast? Slow? How much money do you have to
spend?.................

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 21:20:05 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Tech Question

Al Barlow wrote:
> I have a 1971 442 with a 455
> and automatic transmission. My question is will this 4-speed mate up to the
> 455. If not, what is needed to convert this car to a 4-speed. Any help
> would be appreciated.
>
It does.  It will.  And then again, it won't.  Al, everything will
work.  EXCEPT the pilot bearing hole in the back of the 455 crank (if
original) isn't there.  For some darn reason, Olds didn't think it
prudent to drill the hole on all their cranks for the pilot bearing.
You also need to change the driveshaft length and yoke, get all the
hardware for the pedals, pivots and such, and cut a bloody hole in the
floor for your shifter.  Then you'll play hell finding the "floor shift
adapter" to go with your console if equipped.  You might be better off
getting a complete 4 speed console for it. (exactly the same as the auto
console, save for the top plate and has an extrusion sitting in a huge
cutout section of the console.)

It would be a HUGE undertaking, though not impossible.  You just have to
make DARN sure you have all the pieces before you start, and the MAIN
thing is to either get a 4 speed crank installed or take yours out and
get the pilot hole drilled (don't even think about leaving it in the car
to do that!  Probably can be done, but I wouldn't trust the accuracy.)

Or trade all that for an OW or OH (69 only, don't get the 68 OH) TH400
trans.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 20:33:52 -0500 (CDT)
From: Rick Kromeich <rickk@ecg.csg.mot.com>
Subject: OAI hoods

Sounds like ASC&P can do a metal reinforced repro OAI for under 1K.  I
would think that puts a big damper on the new company idea. I will call them
again soon and forward what I hear to the list.  I am still very interested
in finding a good OAI hood or a very nice repro, so if I don't find an
original sounds like this company is the best bet so far.  If anyone has
a line on a good 71-72 OAI anywhere, please let me know.

- -Rick
72 Cutlass Supreme Convert(less OAI)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 20:43:40 -0500
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: A better mechanical fuel pump

>
> I ran the holley chrome menchanical pump for about 6 months before the
casting
> broke off.
>
> cf
>

I had the same thing happen to my Holley pump (starting to sound pretty
common). To fix it I took a fuel pump off of a '65 425 which is of the same
basic design as a Holley (rebuildable). Removed the pump part off of the
Holley pump and put it on the 425s base. Of course you'll lose the chrome
base but some Mopar people I use to know had a saying "If it don't go
chrome it". I guess that explains why there is so much chrome for Chevy's
(just kidding Jason).

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 20:39:10 -0500 (CDT)
From: Rick Kromeich <rickk@ecg.csg.mot.com>
Subject: Sport Wheel

Just dug out my sport wheel that has been hanging in my shed for many a
Chicago seasons.  I was suprised to find that the entire rubber grip portion
was completely shiny and covered in an oilish, syrupy mixture.  It is truly
disgusting looking and has me worried.  Nothing has every spilled on it in
the shed, is it the rubber decomposing?  What could it be?  Any suggestions
on how to revive it?  I would really like to use it but fear I can ruin it
worse, if that's possible.  Anyone else ever heard of this or have suggestions.

- -Rick
72 Cutlass Supreme Convert(less OAI)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 20:50:08 -0500
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: Twin batteries

> I would like to know:
> I have two 700 CA batteries (I would like a new 900 CA, but I already
> have these).  One is a multi-post, so I decided to make my own
> two-battery car for winter.
>
> Experiences, comments, and ideas are welcome (smaller bateries are so
> much cheaper if they could just turn my car over in the winter, I'd be
> laughing)!
>
> Thanx...
>
> ...............self-promo sig file Version 2.2...............
> Eric Aksomitis:
>

I put dual batteries in my truck because I have an electric cooler in it. I
didn't use any isolator/switch type of device. They've been in there for a
little over a year with no problems.

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 21:29:42 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: HEI Conversion

Kurt Heinrich wrote:

> 1) I've heard conflicting stories on this list as to whether or not the
> stock aircleaner will fit without denting it.

Some say it will work on a big block, I think, since it's not stock
anymore anyway, go to a free breathing smaller custom air cleaner,  K&N
perhaps.  Don't dent anything you wish you hadn't later.

> 2) Would it be wiser to get a junkyard HEI or get a rebuilt unit.
> Summit carries rebuilts ("remanufactured and blueprinted") for $150
> which have a 46K volt coil (what did the HEIs come with)

I've seen junkyard units last a good long time.  Remember, the HEI
probably isn't what put that car in the junkyard to begin with.  Wiggle
the shaft back and forth.  If it feels snug, or with very very little
side to side movement, you should be OK.  Of course if it clunks, then
chuck it back in the pile.  For peace of mind, getting one from Summit
isn't so bad.  But I went and bought all the pieces separate from GM
(they don't sell complete new ones anymore) and came out of it for less
than 160 bucks.

Your call, good luck.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 21:34:08 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Speed Racer

Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) wrote:

>
> Hmmmmmm..... :-)  Ah come on.  Doesn't anyone remember the show?
>
Yes Chris, but I watched it as a kid.  I can't remember that far back.
And I don't watch the cartoons anymore.  If I'm up early on Saturday,
and I'm not at work, I'm wrenchin on my own "Mach 5".  That's the probem
with that wuss Speed.  He ran the dog crap out of that car, but never
wrenched on it.  I think Chimm Chim was his half-brother......

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 21:15:14 -0500
From: Patrick Derkacz <patrickd@wwnet.com>
Subject: Re: 4 spd/ turbo 400 swap help

I am thinking of swapping out my broken 4spd for a turbo 400 in my '69
442 conv.  Other than needing a flexplate and trans lines are there any
other problems? does anyone know if they use the same driveshaft? Any
help/advice/suggestions are appreciated

patrickd@wwnet.com
69 442 conv(w/ broken 4spd)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 21:46:44 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: The Whiners

Mike Rothe wrote:

> (With that quiet exhaust, I can hear that distinctive
> TH350 "whine" build up and shift into second now.....)

You mean they all do that?  I thought it was just mine...

Paul

- --
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 21:51:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: body parts

Dunno if this place is in THE web page, but it sure oughta be...

'69-70 W30 hood repro. Needs prof'l installation: scoop holes are not open,
heeds mods at tongue mount area, "airbox" whatever that is, comes separately.

But...
CHEAP at  $289 for the liteweight version.

A few other items:

heavy parts:
$  yr  what
389 66 stock hood
229 66-7 front fender
389 68 stock hood
389 69-70 W30 hood w/ airbox
389 71-2  W30 hood w/ airbox
799 71-2  W30 tilt front end
159 70-2  conv. decklid

lightweight parts:
249 66 stock hood
248 68 stock hood
249 69-70 stock hood
289 69-70 W30 hood
59  69-72 airbox
699 71-2 1-pc front, fits 70
149 70   Front bumper

Many others listed, zillions of items for the non-Olds, even truck cabs.

U.S. Body Source, 1-904-468-2203
Star Rte. 1
Box 800
Hampton, FL 32044-9720

Can't *recommend* them much, only bought the race car's hood from 'em, but it
was OK.

You be the judge.
 --
Chris  B. Witt
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 21:41:57 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 400 vs. 425 vs. 455

Daren & Laurie Hendley wrote:
>
> >
> > Which makes the best bracket motor? Any ideas out there?
>
The 455.  I say this ONLY because if you lunch one, they are easier to
find.  Leave those 400/425s to the guys who need them to restore.  Ok,
that may be a little prejudice, but the 400 early blocks were probably
the fastest revving son of a gun, so if you had a light car, you could
go in a hurry.  But it depends on what you will do with it.  There is no
replacement for displacement.  If you are running a heavy car, the 455
rod angles are best suited to twist a fat pig off the line, but if you
are light, you can afford to spin up faster.  Tough call.  455 parts are
"plentiful" compared to early 400/425 parts.  Stay away from that
long-stroke-455-wanna-be late 400 though.  Good engine for street, but
not so great at the drags, compared to the early 400.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 20:57:14 -0500
From: Shang <shoover@flash.net>
Subject: Re: 4 spd/ turbo 400 swap help

Patrick Derkacz wrote:
>
> I am thinking of swapping out my broken 4spd for a turbo 400 in my '69
> 442 conv.  Other than needing a flexplate and trans lines are there any
> other problems? does anyone know if they use the same driveshaft? Any
> help/advice/suggestions are appreciated
>
> patrickd@wwnet.com
> 69 442 conv(w/ broken 4spd)


You will need to have you driveshaft shortened and the TH-400 uses a
different yoke. Of course I am sure you are aware you need a torque
converter, a dipstick tube, a radiator with a transmission cooler or an
aftermarket cooler, and a shifter also.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texes

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 21:50:18 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Gas tank interchange: '70 and '71 Cutlass

Robert Barry wrote:
>
> I'd like to replace the existing tank in my '70 (which has been sitting for
> 13 years, containing an unknown amount of sludge, varnish and sediment) with
> one from a '71 that was used regularly and is now emptied out. The size and
> shape is the same, but the '71 has two vent tubes on the front corners; is
> this going to work on my '70?

Sure.  Bolts right up.  No problemo.  Just steal that vent tube
retainer/filter that goes up behind the back seat.... Actually, on the
70, don't you have one vent/filter tube in the passenger front corner of
it?  You can plug one of the tubes on the 71, and use the 70 vent tube
arrangement on it, I believe.  I can't find my 70 chassis manual right
now, or I would check it out.  I think all the 455 equipped fuel gage
senders are the same for 70 and 71.  I'd go ahead and replace that sock
too.

Good luck,

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 21:57:43 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: TicTocTac

DROLDS350@aol.com wrote:
>
> Hello, My 1970 has RallyPac Gauges and a tictoctac. The clock in it doesn't
> work. My question is has anyone ever had theres made to quartz and is it hard
> to do? I have heard that there are kits available. Can you also reccommend
> anybody? any help on this topic would be greatly appreciated!
> Jim
> 70 Cutlass W31

There is a guy in Illinois that will sell you a clock conversion kit for
quartz.  Sends a how to video too.  (The clock doc??) I don't remember
who.  It's in Hemming's under Services, but I don't have mine handy
right now.  Some cheapskate friend is borrowing it.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 23:10:03 -0300
From: "Robert J. Lavey" <rjlavey@rmci.net>
Subject: Re: HEI Conversion

Hi Kurt,

At 08:01 PM 9/18/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I've ~almost~ made the decision to convert to HEI, but have a few
>questions:
>1) I've heard conflicting stories on this list as to whether or not the
>stock aircleaner will fit without denting it.

I've put HEI on both my 1968 442s.  Both have the original air cleaner, and
I didn't have to dent either one.  I have a buddy with a 1970 W30 442 and he
said the HEI hit the firewall.


>2) Would it be wiser to get a junkyard HEI or get a rebuilt unit.
>Summit carries rebuilts ("remanufactured and blueprinted") for $150
>which have a 46K volt coil (what did the HEIs come with)

I've done all of mine by getting swap meet units and rebuilding them with
MSD coil, module, cap, rotor, and button.  I always put an adjustable vacuum
advance unit on there too (Crane was what I used last time).

I'm not sure about the specs on the MSD coils, but the HEI I put in my
hardtop '68 would start the car right up during Iowa winters.  No lack of
spark there :)


Bob
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Robert J. Lavey                         email: rjlavey@rmci.net
 13243 W. Dahlia Dr.                     Home:  (208) 939-5418
 Boise, ID  83713-1302                   Fax:   (208) 939-5452
- -----------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 21:55:32 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Sport Wheel

Rick Kromeich wrote:
>
> Just dug out my sport wheel that has been hanging in my shed for many a
> Chicago seasons.  I was suprised to find that the entire rubber grip portion
> was completely shiny and covered in an oilish, syrupy mixture.  It is truly
> disgusting looking and has me worried.  Nothing has every spilled on it in
> the shed, is it the rubber decomposing?  What could it be?  Any suggestions
> on how to revive it?  I would really like to use it but fear I can ruin it
> worse, if that's possible.  Anyone else ever heard of this or have
suggestions. > You've been slimed!  It happens on my 71 a lot if I don't drive
it for a long time.  (It's probably that way now, I haven't moved it in a
month!)  I'll get in it and YUCK!  I just take some Windex and a paper towel 
and
it comes right off.  Cleans the steering wheel too.   Have no idea what it is,
but it must be a common thing with the "smoothie" sport wheels.  Used to have a
grainy finish one, and it never did that.

Go ahead, clean it, it will be back.......

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 21:15:32 -0700
From: "Forrest Johnson" <johnson@edisongroup.com>
Subject: Re: Reving the Olds 403

CRuper1@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 97-09-17 03:40:11 EDT, you write:
>
> <<
>  .. If that is what your
>  > looking for then a big block is really the way to go. Most out there
>  > couldn't tell a 260/403 from a 400/455. You can make them believe about
>  > anything.
>
>  So true.  A local kid here (with '81 Cutlass Brougham) has a 350 (2
>  block, 8 heads) and claimed that it had been rebuilt, and that it was a
>  big block.  I told him he was full of ****.    .......


What happens is some of the inexperienced tend to get short block vrs.
long block and small block vrs. big block confused.  Think of the
options you have if you purchase a manufactured engine. short small,
long small, short big, long big and some other variations.  I see
this all the time, especially when the bragging starts. "Well I've
got a long small short big block that produces 1200 HP with
a 600 CFM carb, 4 barrell that is !!"  I always pull them to the side
(later) and try to show them their errors, but live and learn.  Some
get some eventially will.  I thinh I'll take my long big block to
the races.  For some reason, I have a starting problem in my short small
block.

Happy 'blocking'

Forrest

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 22:12:46 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: The Whiners

Paul Hartlieb wrote:

>
> > (With that quiet exhaust, I can hear that distinctive
> > TH350 "whine" build up and shift into second now.....)
>
> You mean they all do that?  I thought it was just mine...
>
You know what sound I'm talking about.  Normal, but distinctive.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 22:11:33 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 4 spd/ turbo 400 swap help

Patrick Derkacz wrote:
>
> I am thinking of swapping out my broken 4spd for a turbo 400 in my '69
> 442 conv.  Other than needing a flexplate and trans lines are there any
> other problems? does anyone know if they use the same driveshaft? Any
> help/advice/suggestions are appreciated
>
Get the flexplate and bolts then bolt up the trans.  Run your lines to
the rad (and cooler if you need to) and the front yoke must be changed
and I believe the driveshaft must be cut a little bit.  Use a new trans
mount, then hook up the shifter to it. You could probably get everything
you need from the junkyard.  VERY simple going this way.  It's the other
way that's a pain.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 22:16:53 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 4 spd/ turbo 400 swap help

Shang wrote:
>
> Patrick Derkacz wrote:
<BIG SNIP>
>a radiator with a transmission cooler or an
> aftermarket cooler, and a shifter also.
>
GM went easy on the radiators.  What's to putting a couple of plugs in
the radiator if you don't use the cooler?  If it is a factory radiator,
it should have came with plugs installed where the cooler lines would
enter the radiator.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 22:35:43 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Sport Wheel

Rick Kromeich wrote:
>
> Just dug out my sport wheel that has been hanging in my shed for many a
> Chicago seasons.  I was suprised to find that the entire rubber grip portion
> was completely shiny and covered in an oilish, syrupy mixture.  It is truly
> disgusting looking and has me worried.  Nothing has every spilled on it in
> the shed, is it the rubber decomposing?  What could it be?  Any suggestions
> on how to revive it?  I would really like to use it but fear I can ruin it
> worse, if that's possible.  Anyone else ever heard of this or have
suggestions. > > -Rick > 72 Cutlass Supreme Convert(less OAI)

My '72 does this as well.  Worse over the summer and more-so when it
sits out instead of in the garage.  If I drive it regularly this stuff
doesn't build up.  Haven't cleaned it for about a year, but I think I
just used glass cleaner.  Will be getting her out this weekend so I'm
looking forward to getting sticky hands 'til I can get her home and
cleaned up.

I call this "Chevy Wheel Syndrome".  Every old Chevy I've ever gotten in
has a sticky wheel like this.

Paul

- --
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 19:42:58 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: SB42/ California Smog

As screwy as governments can be, maybe enrolled means it has to start all
over.


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass (Ruby)
'66 Toronado (LA Woman)
'67 Delta 88 Custom  (Tizzy)
'69 Toronado (Toro II)
'72 Vista Cruiser (VC)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 22:49:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: Nascarnut5@aol.com
Subject: Unsubscribe please

Unsubscribe please

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 23:17:16 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: TicTocTac

>There is a guy in Illinois that will sell you a clock conversion kit for
>quartz.  Sends a how to video too.  (The clock doc??) I don't remember
>who.  It's in Hemming's under Services, but I don't have mine handy
>right now.  Some cheapskate friend is borrowing it.
>
>Mike Rothe


I guess I have the "time" to look it up for you.  Just happen to have my
Hemmings right here.....let's see......ah, here it is.

I think the guy Mike is talking about is:    Instrument Services, Inc.
                                             11765 Main Street
                                             Roscoe,  IL   61073
                                             800-558-2674

and then there's:    Clock Doc, Inc.
                     125 University Ave
                     Sewanee,  TN  37375
                     800-256-5362
                     e-mail:  www.thomasregister.com/clockdoc

Hope this helps!

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 97 03:18:18 UT
From: "Fred Orcutt" <F_M_O@classic.msn.com>
Subject: RE: MCC on-line voting(olds related)

Yikes! A Cobra, 2 '57 ch*vys, a beautiful '55 ch*vy, & a cherry '31
F*rd....even a '68 Rambler!!! We just gotta beat the Rambler at least.

- ----------
>From: oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca on behalf of WMACHINES@aol.com
>Sent: Wednesday, September 17, 1997 10:44 PM
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: MCC on-line voting(olds related)

Howdy you all, MCC or know as My classiccar is having a contest on who has
the
best looking car around.  There are Oldsmobiles to vote on.  It changes every
week
on Wednesdays. Unfortunately, not 1 olds has won yet, so i am telling all to
go to

www.myclassiccar.com and then go to Photo Gallery to vote on your favorite
car,
of course it being an OLDS.  The Olds competing this week is a 1972 Vista
Cruiser owned by a fella by the name of Fred Orcutt.  So please vote, no
purchase required and also you can leave email for the man in charge, after
all in Feb, MCC will air the
100th Centennial of Olds

W MACHINES(Mark Prince)
72 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 23:16:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: CRuper1@aol.com
Subject: My 455 ª's (block ID's)

OK, it has been documented that I have recently purchased a 1970 455 motor to
drop into my '81 Cutlass.  I've done some teardown work and wrote down some
numbers to pass along.  First off, it is supposed to be a motor out of a
station wagon, least that's what I've been told.  It was put into a 1970
Cutlass S which originally had a 350 in it.  The motor was a 2 bbl. version,
and when the swap was done, they used the 350's exhaust manifolds (converted
over to dual exhaust by capping the pass. side, etc.), and had a 4 bbl. put
on it (I'll have a number off the 4 bbl. to see if anybody can match up the
original application, etc).  That's as much as I know about the history, onto
the numbers....

Block: 396021 F
Side ª: 30M260751
oil filter tube ª: 0344086
backside of block: (cast in, raised) F1
pass. side of block: (cast in, raised, 'bout 1.25-1.5 in. high): F
Heads: E (including ª686 underneath), approx. 1.625 in., and 2.0 in. valves
Piston dish: approx. .250 in.
Intake: 410448  D2  B  Y  (Letter "U" up front)
Crank ª: 39736 (Letter "N" cast into first journal)

A few items that I was suprised to see:
1) In the lifter bore galley, there was a metal "tray" (for lack of a better
term) that bolted to the top of the block, in between the lifter bores, and
it covered the opening that exposes the camshaft.  This was just a suprise to
find.  Looks stock, is it just to keep crap off the cam, and give sufficient
oil drainback?

2)  The oil pan has a tray put into it, just a few inches above the bottom of
the pan.  The oil pump pick-up fits underneath it.  Would keep the oil from
all going flying to the back of the pan when the car "launches" off the line.
 It is stock, I take it.  Another "suprise" to find.  Guess they expected
these big motors to accelerate real hard <grin>.

I'm sure this thing isn't anything real special.  I did recall some talk
about the fact that a nodular crank made it into the "large" cars, even
though it wasn't a "performance" application.  I'm used to the small block,
and ones that are newer also (yeah, if you call '74-77 a whole lot newer).

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 23:27:31 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: 4 spd/ turbo 400 swap help

Patrick Derkacz wrote:
>
> I am thinking of swapping out my broken 4spd for a turbo 400 in my '69
> 442 conv.  Other than needing a flexplate and trans lines are there any
> other problems? does anyone know if they use the same driveshaft? Any
> help/advice/suggestions are appreciated
>
> patrickd@wwnet.com
> 69 442 conv(w/ broken 4spd)
Patrick,

What is broken on your 4 spd?  I have a 69 S 350 4-bbl 4-spd that fourth
gear syncro is out on and have been looking for the appropriate pieces
reasonably priced (is this really possible?).  If you junk out the
trans, would these parts be good?  Just curious about that and if the
trans is interchangeable with mine.  If you don't make the switch, sorry
to bother you.  Either way good luck with yours.

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, Ky

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 14:24:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: CRuper1@aol.com
Subject: Ahem...  (Re: Engine Swapout 76-->70 350)

In a message dated 97-09-17 15:46:54 EDT, you write:

<<
 mike rothe,
      in all the experiance i have had in building fast cars i have never
 heard anyone say that the th-400 is a better tranny.  one of the cars i
build
 two years ago, a 78 chevy comero, had a big block chevy motor in it.  the
 motor was rated at 700 hp.  the first night running it at the track it blew
 up the rear end.  the tranny had no problems holding up with the tremendous
 torque and horsepower.  >>

Uhhh... actually, I have a rebuild book (it's an HP (I think) series book,
and I can't remember the author), but it's mainly about the 250/350/375
series trannys.  In the performance section it does state (not in the exact
words, but close) that for all out performance the TH-400 will hold up better
than a TH-350.  A TH-350 will hold up well under performance conditions
(can't remember if they give ratings of what they say a TH-350 will take, but
I've heard 700-750 ft-lbs. of torque from the list at one time), if they are
rebuilt properly, and tolerances are held tight.  I can give you more info
(author, exact wording, etc.) if you'd like.  It is a rather comprehensive
book covering diagnosis, inspection, rebuild, and performance modifications
of these series of trannys.  It's coming in handy for me as we speak
(rebuilding a TH-350C for my Cutlass).

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 10:29:55 -0800
From: Dan Lacey <lacey@dsea.com>
Subject: Re: Surging

>The newest addition has a very subtle 'surge' when driving.  Its basically
>there all the time.  This is a 330-4bbl.  Would that possibly be carb or
>fuel pump?  Its rythmic - starts and stops evenly.  Car has 180,000 & most
>everything looks original (honest).
>
>Any ideas?
>
>
>Lisa Madsen
>Anaheim, CA
>


I'll guess that it is running lean...

When the 4bbl kick in, I bet it goes away...


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 16:52:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Douglas J Harkema" <harkema2@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Re: Speed Racer

Mike I love Speed racer and have many episodes on tape.  I'll do some
research.  You know Johnny Lightning has a diecast Mach 5!!!

Doug H
70 CS Conv't


> > Mike Rothe
wrote: > >
> > A-G, hmmmmmm..........that means Speed had his selection of big-block
> > Oldsmobile heads right at his finger tips?????
>
> Hee. Hee.  Hee!  That was an ingenious answer.
>
> > You know he'd have gone a lot faster if he had the Aurora engine....
>
> Hmmmmmm..... :-)  Ah come on.  Doesn't anyone remember the show?
>
> Chris
>
>
> P.S.  You know what is even more strange about this series is that
>       I always thought it was a cartoon about an american family.
>       Come to find out they were really Japanese.  The M on the
>       hood stands for Mifune Motors and Speed's Japanese name is
>       "Go".
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 23:48:28 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: how to bring back that gold shine

I finally found my cruise control servo.  Here's my question;

How do you bring back that "goldish" bare metal look some parts have?
Can you buff it out?  I saw a guy at the Olds Homecoming show & his
servo looked brand new!

If you don't understand what I'm talking about, sorry.  I tried to
explain.  It's like a gold version of the way the power brake boosters
look.

Any help appreciated!

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 23:39:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Gary's 64 Big Car

From: Gary Manton <sasgmm@unx.sas.com>
Subject: Engine Parts

My 1964 Dynamic 88 Convertible is looking forward to having it's engine
finally rebuilt, but I am having trouble locating kits for the rebuild.  It
is feeling like the lonely stepchild that nobody wants.  It is starting to
develop a complex because it is not as popular as the 442 or 330's.  Almost
the same feelings of being the last one chosen in gym class.  Can somebody
help me out, before I have to take her to the therapist.

Gary
======================

Gary, I believe Kanter carries full rebuid kits, or pieces for considerably
hihger price$.

You might call
 Dick Bybee
Mesa, AZ
602-984-4442 or 250-9677 pager

He has done some similar stuff recently, I've dealt with him, can recommend him
highly.
- --
Chris  B. Witt
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 23:51:08 -0400 (EDT)
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: Re: Tech Question

Hey al, same bell housing for big or small block. And your 72 cutlass should
have the frame drilled in several places so its easy to move the cross member
to the desired position. The other question is what kind of tranny do you
have. And what kind of 4spd are you getting . The yoke on your drive shaft
maybe different but easily changed. There are 2 different sizes one will fit
a tubo350(same as most 4spds) and the other a turbo 400. Also you need to
look into lengths of each tranny. May need a different driveshaft all
together. But thats easy to once you determine how much longer or shorter you
need just take the old one and a bone yard can give you one longer or
shorter, usually about $50. Dont have the shaft cut and rebalenced is to much
$. Off the top of my head i believe muncie M20,M21 are 350 yokes and a ST10
is 400 yoke. Good luck
joe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 23:52:26 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: AL intake on 307

> 1.  Can any one tell me why the Eldebrock intake for the 307 only fits up to
> 85, why will it not fit the 86 307?

Odds are good that it'll fit right on there, but their books just aren't
that far updated.  Can anyone verify this?????  Somewhere in there they
switched to the roller lifters, but I'm not sure ~when~ that happened,
or if additional intake clearance was necessary.  Anyone???
===============

The port size mismatch. earlier SB's used rectangular ports, about 1.25 x 2"
maybe- very rough figures from feeble memory. The 260 and later 307's starting
with the ª6A heads, have teeny tiny ports, same width, but height cut down to
about equal to width.

So, imagine the A/F coming down the intake, all happy in its 2" tall port, when
*wham* 1/3 of it has to STOP or cram into the rest of the space left by the
port here in the head.

- --
Chris  B. Witt
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 20:47:39 -0700
From: mefco@sprynet.com
Subject: Re: Sport Wheel

Rick,
You may be interested in knowing about the September, 1970, volume 20, number 
12
 Oldsmobile service guild product training manual, there is a short message
titled, Steering Wheel Rim "Sweat" condition. It reads as follows: When a 1970
Oldsmobile has been parked for a considerable period of time in the hot sun
with the windows rolled up, the in-car temperatures may become high enough to
cause the steering wheel to "sweat". This condition results in the steering
wheel having a slippery, oily feeling and is caused by beads of plasticizer
escaping from the plastic wheel. This action may be likened to the solvents
escaping from the finish of a newly painted car. The best remedy for this
condition is to wipe off the wheel with a clean dry cloth when the car's
interior is at a high temperature. It may take several wipings before the
steering wheel becomes seasoned. Do not replace the steering wheel for this
condition since the new wheel may exhibit the same condition. What this is
saying, is that this problem has been around since the wheels were first made,
and all that dry rag wiping has never caused the wheel to become seasoned.

Art Fuller
mefco@sprynet.com

P.S. I have found these wheels in wrecking yards appearing to have burned. They
were really crudded up from sitting in closed cars for long periods of time.
Only paid a dollar or two for them because they looked so bad. After bringing
them home and cleaning them, they look as good as before they sat so long.

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª855
********************************
