
oldsmobile-digest      Monday, September 29 1997      Volume 01 : Number 876



Re: Thanks about info on slick 50 & duralube
olds delta 88 door sealers
65 Vista-Cruiser
RE: Really Dumb Wiper Question
Re: There's my car!
Re: TPI fro Olds?
RE: '70 CS headlight wiring; where's it routed?
Re: BODY: Haynes Service Manual for 74-?? Cutlass
Re: Source for Caliper hose bolts?
Re: Really Dumb Wiper Question
Re: Finally some good news
Compression test
Re: There's my car!
Re: Oil Pan Help
Re: There's my car!
Person Search
my apologies to the list and a request
60 Olds in Az
Re: TPI fro Olds?
Re: Suspension Q's
Re: TPI fro Olds?
"B" Olds Head Question
'71 Cutlass Steering Wheel (fwd)
1981 Cutlass Supreme parts
Re: Really Dumb Wiper Question
Re: Hurst Olds
RE: Suspension Q's
Re: Suspension Q's
Re: Compression test
Re: Really Dumb Wiper Question
Re: Source for Caliper hose bolts?
Re:  70 w-30
69 Cutlass with f-body disc brakes
Re: "B" Olds Head Question
Carburator Question
Re: `70 442 vs W-30
Re: Build Sheet Help
69 Factory Assembly Manual
Re: Build Sheet Help
Re: 69 Factory Assembly Manual
Re: 69 Factory Assembly Manual
Re: Really Dumb Wiper Question
Re: "B" Olds Head Question
68 Cutlass S Convertible for sale
subscribe oldsmobile
Re: Carburator Question
jason adcock
Re: Olds Music
87 44 info- thanks
Re: `70 442 vs W-30
Rear axle seal
RE: jason adcock

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 10:06:33 -0500
From: "David Brown (the Olds FAQ compiler)" <dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: Thanks about info on slick 50 & duralube

On a side note before I put Syntec in Laurie's car she used Valvoline
after
21,000 miles it was getting a brownish-gold looking inside the filler
cap
on the valve cover. Since using Castrol the inside of the valve cover
looks
a lot cleaner. I read somewhere that Valvoline uses a lot of paraffin
(wax)
in their oil. I would assume that brownish-gold residue was a build up
of
paraffin. Definitely not something I want floating around in my engine.

Daren 
- ----------
I experienced the same "cleaning" of the heads on my '88 Cutlass. At
around 45,000 I switched to Amsoil 10w-30. The oil fill is in the rocker
cover, and I've noticed that the aluminum head material is shiny again,
rather than brown. Had been getting a steady diet of Pennzoil. Pennz
wasn't the problem as all non-synthetic oils contain about the same
amount of paraffin and ash. Check the oil FAQ.
- -- 
David Brown     Mailto:dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 16:59:32 +0200
From: "archy van wely" <usicon@pi.net>
Subject: olds delta 88 door sealers

Hi all,
My brother is next month in san fransisco for an exercise with brittain sas
and US navy seals and I want to let him bring back rubber door sealers for
me.Because I cannot order them by oldsmobile europe.
But I havent got a idea what I should give him along to say to the dealer.
Has anybody an idea how to order door sealers with a dealer without having
the dealer search the universe for it.
I guess he has little time so it would be perfect to order it ahead or
something like that.
Can anyone please advice me?
Greetings from archy
Holland
olds delta 88 royale town sedan 1976

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 10:16:28 -0500
From: Dave Burba <BURBA@docker.com>
Subject: 65 Vista-Cruiser

Just came across a 65 Vista-Cruiser. The owner says he brought it from Toronto
but it originally came from Texas. I am told it is only one of two in
Canada. He also says that the local chapter of the OCA in Toronto says it is
very rare. The appraised value was $12,000.00 and he is asking $6,500.00.
Some details are, blue in color with some rust in the rear quarters,
original motor changed to a 350 and has SSII wheels on it. Original parts
not there. It has the third seat. Front seat is ripped. Overall it looks
good but I didn't have a lot of time to look it over. Maybe a 6.5-7 out of 10.
I know very little about the Vista-Cruiser or their value. I have always
liked the look of a Vista-Cruiser (from pictures only :-(). Can someone let
me know what they think. This is too expensive for me but if anyone else is
interested let me know and I will take a better look.

I am on the digested format so it might take a little while to respond.

PS
Thanks to all who responded to "new on the list with questions" I
appreciated your comments.
Dave Burba    E-mail  burba@docker.com
Brandon, Manitba Canada
68 Cutlass S

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 10:43:23 -0500
From: "David Brown (the Olds FAQ compiler)" <dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: RE: Really Dumb Wiper Question

Uhhh... what little tab? Trust me, if I saw a tab (or anything, for that 
matter) that looked like it would release them, I would have attacked
it...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada
- ----------
Oh, you've got those Canadian wipers . . . Sorry, couldn't resist that
one!!

- -- 
David Brown     Mailto:dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 10:06:06 -0600 (MDT)
From: Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Subject: Re: There's my car!

On Fri, 26 Sep 1997, Patton wrote:

> >	Did anyone notice the 67' Cutlass drop top that Woody Harrelson
> drove in "White men can't jump" or the 70 442 in "Demolition Man".

noticed Eddie Murphy driving a red '68 convertable in Beverly Hills Cop II
at the begining of the show he was in a Ferrari  then he upgraded!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 16:23:52 GMT
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: TPI fro Olds?

>Can someone tell me why there are no TPI systems available for a 350
>Rocket, or any Olds engine (early) for that matter?  Can get them for
>any Chevy or Ford, but no Olds.  I can get a custom system for $4500,
>but for that, I can get a whole new engine.

The problem here is the manifold; the factory never produced one for an Olds
motor, so either one has to be adapted (from a 4-bbl or tunnel-ram casting),
or somebody has to do the engineering and invest in the tooling to produce a
casting, and I guess that nobody has considered this economically feasible.
Once there was an intake casting, however, it would be simple enough to
utilize the injection setup from another engine, including the throttle,
injectors, computer, etc...
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 16:23:48 GMT
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: RE: '70 CS headlight wiring; where's it routed?

>It runs along the top, above the condensor, in a loom held by strap hangars 
>that pop into the cross member.

Thanks (also to Mike R., who looked it up in his '71 shop manual); I had to
replace the radiator, and found holes along the top of the support for the
little strap hangers, two of which were still on the wires.

BTW, thought I had found a good deal on a new Modine radiator from a nearby
"Auto Palace" (discount chain around here); $215 for lifetime warranty, I'd
just need to go in and put a deposit for it since it's not in stock, but
they could have it today. Just for the heck of it, I brought the old one
down to an *ancient* radiator place just down the street from me, to see
what they would charge to recore it. He quoted me a price of $45 to seal it
up, if it could be fixed, which he doubted (as did I; large portions of the
fins are green... :p ), but looks up something in his book and says he can
give me a brand-new Modine unit with lifetime warranty for $132, and yes,
it's in stock.

Just goes to show you that you never know where you'll get the best discount.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 16:23:50 GMT
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: BODY: Haynes Service Manual for 74-?? Cutlass

>A while back I was in Canadian Tire, glancing at a Hayns body manual for 
>a 74 to 80something cutlass, and on the back was a picture of what they 
>called a Cutlass.  It had square headlights, with no 'hangover' 90 degree 
>bend, and was only shown up to the windshield, with the portion of the 
>car that I believe would say 'Delta 88' covered.  In short, I believe 
>this to be an 88 or 98 of 80-85 vintage.  Being a '75 olds man with one 
>72, though I DON'T KNOW!  I don't like the idea of people having that 
>little respect for Old's to group them all into one lump and sell a 
>manual to the public with as 88 claiming to be a cutlass.  They are both 
>different, beautiful cars, and Haynes should not mess around with MY 
>brand!  If anyone could browse and find this manual for me (I believe 
>it's spelled Haynes, or maybe Hais, they're at Candian Tire)
>
>If this is not a cutlass, this book will be OUT of print if I can get my 
>way.  No stupid CorpOrate Bu**S***T is gonna just pump out an 88 claiming 
>to be a cutlass with the 'Who cares, they're all just Oldsmobiles, 
>anyways' Attitude!
>
>If this is indeed an olds, I promise to feel STUPID

OK, I think you can call off the witch-hunt; it sounds like they have the
picture of the front-end of an '81-> Cutlass _4-door_, which had a
completely different front-end than the Supreme 2-door, and shared a strong
family resemblance to the 88 of the same vintage. I think I've seen this
particular manual as well, and I'm quite sure it's a Cutlass sedan.

Boy, though, all the anger over a little picture! As for the years covered
by the manual, who knows why. I've got a Chilton's that covers from '70-'82
Cutlass; of course, I bought that in '83, so it was up to date then, but
I've seen the same manual on the shelves in a more recent edition that
covers up to '87 or '88. Maybe Haynes had a practice of only covering the
last ten years or so of a model, and the edition you see is an older one
that wasn't updated.

If you're dissatisfied, though, it's always best to get the shop manual for
your car. You'll never go back to Chilton/Haynes again. Actually, that's a
lie; I've since found the Chilton's handy for providing procedures for tests
or repairs that don't require the use of tools such as "BT-201" or
"J-10342", but rather an ammeter and a hammer. One other thing that you may
not find in the shop manual but that is readily available from the Chilton's
are things like capacities and specifications (for example, there is no
listing of the hp ratings for the various 1970 engines in my '70 shop
manual, or if there is, it's *very* hidden).
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 16:23:51 GMT
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Source for Caliper hose bolts?

>        The reason why you think they have a built in washer from the
>factory is due to them being on the car so long. They are separate washers
>that just get so crushed with time that they usually stay on the caliper or
>hose when removed. So what you need is to go to the parts store and get the
>copper washers to go under the bolt heads.

No, the type of bolt I'm thinking of has a definite built-in shoulder, or a
broad tapered circular head with a hex-shaped socket (to receive an
allen-wrench type bit, like the caliper hold-down pins). I don't think the
hex-head is compressing the copper washer uniformly, causing these leaks.
I've already tightened them down a bit more, which slowed the leak, but
didn't stop it. I thought of usinga a heavy steel washer under the head of
the bolt, but then again, the head of the bolt itself is supposed to be a
sealing surface, so that wouldn't work. I guess it's junkyard time...
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 16:23:49 GMT
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Really Dumb Wiper Question

>I bought a pair of wiper blades for the Delta the other day. While doing 
>a variety of stuff to it today I decided to put them on. But I was 
>foiled, because I couldn't get the old blades off the wiper arms.
>
>How the !@#$%$#@! are those things released from the arms? All I could 
>see were the ends of some springs sticking up from either side of the 
>attaching pin, but fiddling with them made no difference. Someone please 
>give me a lesson on this...
>
>OK, everyone, go ahead and make me look foolish now! :)

No, you won't look foolish, since the answer isn't obvious. While some arms
have a little spring you push down on to release the blade assembly from the
pin, some arms simply use a small spring that rests just slightly off-center
from the hole for the pin. When you push on the wiper assembly, the taper on
the end of the pin enables the pin to go through both the hole in the
assembly and the spring inside there. There is a little notch on that pin,
however, so that once the assembly is pushed on far enough, the little
spring, uh, springs into it's natural resting position, and grabs onto that
notch, holding the blade on the arm. Here's a little diagram of the pin:

- ------_____------
                  \
                    \
                    /
______-----______ /

      ^^^^^
      |||||

The little spring inside the arm will grab right here on that pin. To
release it, take a small screwdriver and press down on that coil spring to
release it from the pin, and slide the arm off. You could just use brute
force, but that might contribute to the wear on the shoulder of that little
notch, and since that shoulder is the only thing keeping your blades
attached, you don't want that to be damaged or rounded in any way. Just
think; if you can pop it off by forcing it, wouldn't a bunch of slushy
buildup be able to pop it off just as well, sending your wiper arm flying
over the roof of your car as you're driving down the highway on a cold,
rainy/snowy/slushy evening? (the answer is yes, as I've found out the hard way)

The answer to the second part of the question would be that you swap the
wiper from the passenger side over to the driver's side, so you can at least
see something, and you wrap the end of the other wiper arm in a sock
[preferrably one you're not wearing, but if you have no other options, you
make do...], cover that with a plastic bag you find on the side of the road
[sometimes litter helps], and tie it on tight with a shoelace, so you don't
gouge a nice arc in the front glass. Retie the shoelace every five miles or
so, so you don't repeat the performance with the bag and sock, or at least
find another bag, since you should have at least one more sock to redo the job.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 10:42:09 -0600 (MDT)
From: Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Subject: Re: Finally some good news

Which place was that?   it sounds typical of a Havre body shop.   'course
I never seem to have any luck getting work done right the first time at a
shop    hope my luck is better with the new tranny and the new paint that
my '89 is supposed to be gaining sometime this year...   I doubt they even
pulled it into the shop 'course it is only week 3

Dustin


On Sun, 28 Sep 1997, Charley Buehner wrote:
> 
> Good to know that's gonna recover OK.  One of the chumps that did an
> estimate on mine lost a lot of respect from the start.  Looked out the
> window and asked what year monte carlo that was!  P**sed me off from the
> start!  Then proceeded to tell me that he couldn't get an accurate
> estimate because his book only went back to '82.  ~INSISTED~ that an 82
> taillight would ~not~ fit on my car!  I quoted him every part # he
> needed to use, and after some arguing, he finally wrote it down.  Then
> he looked under the car, and said the body damage must have been old
> damage because the shocks hadn't been compressed, because there were no
> scratches on the shocks there.  That ~really~ p**sed me off, because two
> days earlier, the entire bumper was up against the shock stops!  A quick
> peek to the top of the shocks in there showed strong scratches
> throughout the entire upper surface of them.  He had the lowest estimate
> of all of them, but I wouldn't trust that nut to even open my hood!  So,
> I left and never considerred going back there...
> 
>     
>              Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
>              Box 524               | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
>              Sidney, Montana 59270 | http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
>              "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
>              "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
> 	     "TRBO LVR" (Maybe???:)| '83 Turbo Regal
>                	     Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 09:36:04 -0700
From: Gary Manton <sasgmm@unx.sas.com>
Subject: Compression test

I have a '64 Dynamic 88 394 engine with a 4 barrel carb, and ran a
compression test.  Each one responded somewhere between 110 and 130, and I
am trying to determine if this is the norm.  Any help would be greatly
appreciated.  I am trying to avoid a rebuild on this very "popular" engine.

G
          \\|//
          (o o)                     
~~~~~~oOOo~(_)~oOOo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Gary M. Manton					SAS Institute
Business Solutions Division			Phoenix, AZ  85012
(602) 265-1616 ext. 230 - voice		        (602) 265-8585 - fax

"In business as in life, your chances of being run over are doubled
if you stay in the middle of the road"
~~~~~~oooo~~~~~oooo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 12:32:14 -0500
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Subject: Re: There's my car!

>>> I will have to check out the National Lampoon Vacation movies with Chevy
>>> Chase and see what year Custom Cruiser the Griswold's were driving;-)
>>
>>Sorry, that would be a Ford Country Squire instead.
>
>I tried to figure out what kind of car Mr. Chase is driving in this movie,
>and I think that, while it does look like a Ford or Mercury wagon, I got
>the impression that it was deliberately disguised to not look like any
>brand of car in particular.

Yup, it was the "Family Truckster", which started out life as a Ford
Country Squire, (or whatever they were calling their battleship back
around 1982). They stuck on some wildly overdone fake wood on the
side, stuck phony C (D?) pillars on to produce opera windows, added
an extra right-side taillight inboard of the left taillight, and an
extra left taillight inboard of the right one. Up front, they put an
extra headlamp/parking/turn-signal assembly on both corners, inverted
under the existing ones.

>Olds related; didn't he trade in an Olds wagon for that "family 
>truckster", and demand it back when the new car wasn't to his 
>satisfaction? Of course, when he went to go start the Olds, it 
>was now 6" tall...

A '72 Vista Cruiser, I think, and if you can stand to watch _that_
scene more than once, you're a stronger man than I am...


Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 13:53:44 -0400
From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Pan Help

No, you don't have to remove the engine to replace this gasket.  When I
replaced the oil pump on my 70 Cutlass a while ago I of course did the pan
gasket at the same time.  You DO, however, have to raise the engine high enough
to remove the oil pan.  This means you have to disconnect the tranny and
exhaust system in order to get the engine high enough.  It was alot of work but
I had no choice since I have no garage and no engine hoist.  By the way, if you
suspect you have a rear main leak, now would be the time to replace that rope
seal back there too.



>I own a 1971 Olds 442 convertible with a 455 automatic and have oil leaking
>around the gasket attaching the oil pan to the engine. My question is this,
>can I change this gasket without removing the engine? Any help would be
>appreciated.

Todd Morris
71 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 12:00:26 -0600 (MDT)
From: Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Subject: Re: There's my car!

a freind of my grandmothers has a early '70s country squire, from the side
it loooks alot like the "family truckster"  it has the woodgrain wallpaper
all over it surrounded by real wood trim   YUCK, YUCK, YUCK!!   

my poor '68 olds wagon had to sit beside this ugly beast for a while in my
'yard  thankfully he came and hauled it off   I was afraid whatever
disease it had might be contagious

Dustin

On Mon, 29 Sep 1997, Andrew C. Green wrote:

> >>> I will have to check out the National Lampoon Vacation movies with Chevy
> >>> Chase and see what year Custom Cruiser the Griswold's were driving;-)

> Yup, it was the "Family Truckster", which started out life as a Ford
> Country Squire, (or whatever they were calling their battleship back
> around 1982). They stuck on some wildly overdone fake wood on the
> side, stuck phony C (D?) pillars on to produce opera windows, added
> an extra right-side taillight inboard of the left taillight, and an
> extra left taillight inboard of the right one. Up front, they put an
> extra headlamp/parking/turn-signal assembly on both corners, inverted
> under the existing ones.
> 
> >Olds related; didn't he trade in an Olds wagon for that "family 
> >truckster", and demand it back when the new car wasn't to his 
> >satisfaction? Of course, when he went to go start the Olds, it 
> >was now 6" tall...
> 
> A '72 Vista Cruiser, I think, and if you can stand to watch _that_
> scene more than once, you're a stronger man than I am...
> 
> 
> Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
> Datalogics, Inc.
> 101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
> Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 14:36:46 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Person Search

Sorry for the post, but I was looking for a Gilbert Russell.  He's listed in Bryceman's page with an '84 H/O and I thought I saw him once on the list.  Please email me privately.  Thanks.

 Jason Adcock
 jadcock@vt.edu
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 13:56:55 -0500
From: gilly24-7@juno.com (Gabe G Gilsrud)
Subject: my apologies to the list and a request

my deepest apologies to all members of the list.
I have just recieved some complaints about foul messages bieng sent to
the list and have pounded my brother for his foolishness...
I have changed my password and ensure you this will NEVER happen again...

Any parts for an '82 supreme out there???
Even if it's a junk car, I need decent bumper strips, a
headliner(D.Blue), and probably many other things.
Also I need a Vacuum diagram free, if there's one out on the net I'm in
need of the address...
Thanx...

- -Gabe G. Gilsrud
Gilly24-7@juno.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 14:51:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: DATIC@aol.com
Subject: 60 Olds in Az

Greetings,
     Somebody E-mailed me inquiring about a '60 Super 88 for sale in Phoenix.
It is located at "yank a part" 2104 W Broadway in Phoenix, close to 19th Ave.
Sorry, but I deleted the mail.

     Dave T. '66 Dynamic 88 droptop

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 15:55:55 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: TPI fro Olds?

Robert Barry wrote:
> 
> >Can someone tell me why there are no TPI systems available for a 350
> >Rocket, or any Olds engine (early) for that matter?  Can get them for
> >any Chevy or Ford, but no Olds.  I can get a custom system for $4500,
> >but for that, I can get a whole new engine.
> 
> The problem here is the manifold; the factory never produced one for an Olds
> motor, so either one has to be adapted (from a 4-bbl or tunnel-ram casting),
> or somebody has to do the engineering and invest in the tooling to produce a
> casting, and I guess that nobody has considered this economically feasible.
> Once there was an intake casting, however, it would be simple enough to
> utilize the injection setup from another engine, including the throttle,
> injectors, computer, etc...

I'm looking at Jeg's right now and they've got this new thing. It's
called VFI...Venturi Fuel Injection. It's shaped like a carb but works
like EFI or TPI, or whatever they call fuel injection. Only $2200! Well!
I could just buy that with one paycheck! ;-)

- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 13:27:28 -0700
From: Dan Lacey <lacey@dsea.com>
Subject: Re: Suspension Q's

>Hey, everybody.  I have a question (no kidding!) about the rear suspension
>on my 84 Cutlass.  I've heard that replacing the control arms with boxed
>ones makes a dramatic difference in the handling of the car.  I have
>replaced the front bushings with PST's kit and that made a real nice
>improvement.  I was wondering if replacing the rear control arms would
>make such an improvement.  There is my budget to consider, also.  Would
>replacing just the lower ones be a waste of money?  I figured those would
>be the ones to change if I was going to only change two, since the sway
>bar mounts to those and not the upper ones.  If anybody has any experience
>with boxed suspension arms please respond...I'm trying to get a Christmas
>list together and I'm looking at all these products and trying to figure
>out which ones are worth the money.  Thanks very much.
>
> Jason Adcock
> jadcock@vt.edu
> http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason

I would suggest boxing the lower control arms for strength and safety. I
doubt that you will notice the difference. The new bushings/springs/shocks
will make so much of a difference that boxing the arms will go unnoticed
(that is until you twist one!!!).

If you are going to do the PST thing (PolyGraphite?), then you are putting
alot of strain on the control arms. Better safe than sorry!!!

If you know a welder, you can have the lowers boxed cheap.

I am not familiar with your rear suspension setup. Is it the traditional
two long parallel lower arms to the axle/shock mount, with two non-parallel
upper arms on the differential housing? You probably shouldn't box the
uppers. You need some flex in the system (it was designed that way). If you
are going all out, just buy a boxed set of control arms.

P.S. Don't forget to check out a set off air bags for the rear springs!


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 15:37:42 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: TPI fro Olds?

I could sell a kidney....:) would an alternative be a supercharger, 
they run around the same and use alot less connectors and wiring and 
stuff, around realitivly same price for them, Wieland makes em, heard 
good things about em, 

> 
> I'm looking at Jeg's right now and they've got this new thing. It's
> called VFI...Venturi Fuel Injection. It's shaped like a carb but works
> like EFI or TPI, or whatever they call fuel injection. Only $2200! Well!
> I could just buy that with one paycheck! ;-)
> 
> -- 
> **********************************
> Matt Cremean
> +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
> CreamerSoftİ Software
> http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
> +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
> 1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
> http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
> **********************************
> 

- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 16:51:22 -0400
From: Ken <olds442@en.com>
Subject: "B" Olds Head Question

Found a set of "B" heads with 389395-1 on top and bottom of head. 
Doesnt the -1 denote something special like 442 heads?


Thanks,
olds442@en.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 18:13:59 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: '71 Cutlass Steering Wheel (fwd)

From Doug Kitchener...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 11:41:29 -0400
From: Douglas Kitchener <dk0009@epfl2.epflbalto.org>
Subject: '71 Cutlass Steering Wheel

Olds Listers-

H*lp!  Got a mystery for you... what style deluxe steering wheel did the '71 
Cutlass use... the same as used in '70, or the same as used in '72?  (Or both, 
which I somehow doubt....)  Have seen both, but the two '71 Cutlass S hardtop 
coupes that I've seen which have the '70-style wheel have sordid histories; 
while I did put an N-34 wheel in a '71 W30 for a guy, and that car was pretty 
much a virgin and documented... and that had the '72-style...

The 8/70 sales literature that I have for '71 shows the '70-style, but we all 
know that sales lit is not reliable... I don't have a '71 Chassis Manual, does 
that show anything?

Please reply directly to me, or cc me with your reply to the list, as I'm not on 
the list!

Thansk for any insight-

Regards,

Doug Kitchener
dk0009@mail.pratt.lib.md.us

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 17:10:24 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: 1981 Cutlass Supreme parts

A local salvage (recycling) yard here in Nicholasville, Ky has a 1981
(born 8/80) Cutlass Supreme(?) that had an interior fire.  No glass is
good nor is any of the interior.  However, the exterior appears to be
rust free and in good shape except for the front bumper which has a
bubble on it from the heat.  The driver's door got pretty hot also but
does not look twisted.  The car looks better under the hood than some
95-96 cars as it has only surface dirt on it.  I don't the mileage on
the car because the speedo/odometer was toasted.  The engine, I think
had a decal on it that said 4.3 which I think translates to a 260 cube
motor.  If anyone is interested, the phone number is 606 885-6081 and
ask for Jimmy Day. If you tell him I told you about it he probably won't
do much more than double the price. (Just kidding.)  Standard
disclaimers, just thought someone might be looking for something on one
of these models.  This car looks like someone loved it before the
bonfire.

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, Ky

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 16:12:26 -0500
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Subject: Re: Really Dumb Wiper Question

> How the !@#$%$#@! are those things released from the arms? All I could 
> see were the ends of some springs sticking up from either side of the 
> attaching pin, but fiddling with them made no difference. Someone please 
> give me a lesson on this...

First of all, you can make life a little easier on yourself by
taking the arms off the car; then you can get a better look at
the blade attaching points. Lift the arm away from the windshield
as far up as it will go, then pull out the little tab visible at
the base of the arm where it attaches to the shaft. A screwdriver
may help: stick the blade between the tab and the arm, and twist.
(It only releases with the arm held up, not resting on the glass.)
The tab should then prevent the arm from snapping back down on the
glass when you release it, and some wiggling back and forth should
get the arm off the shaft.

As for the blade release, I think you've got the design where the
coils of the spring are visible through the hinge of the blade...?
Use the tip of a small screwdriver to press down on the spring, so
it clears the recess in the mounting pin of the wiper arm, and 
wiggle the blade until it comes off the pin.

...and on a completely different subject...

> From: senko@reston.ans.net (Andrew A. Senko)
> Subject: Andy Green shatters world land speed record
>
>> From http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-srv/digest/sport2.htm
>
>	British fighter pilot Andy Green
>	shattered the world land speed record on Thursday with a
>	run nearly 74 mph faster than the one his boss set here
>	almost 14 years ago. 
>
> Andy,
>
> I thought you sold your Rocket in favor of a Pontiac?  Way to go!

Yeah, then I sold the Pontiac in favor of a rocket.  :-)

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 17:19:07 -0400 (EDT)
From: KR442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Hurst Olds

TRY SEARCH IN YAHOO OLDS PARTS SOURCE 6 PAGES OF COMPANYS 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 17:23:45 -0400
From: "Adcock, Jason K." <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: Suspension Q's

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BCCCFC.720E5CA0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Thanks for the advice, Dan.  I am not putting the PST treatment on the =
rears.  I've decided (I think) not to do the boxed control arms =
either--yes I do have the traditional setup with two lower "parallel" =
trailing arms and two upper "perpendicular" trailing arms.  Instead, I =
think I'm going to check out Edelbrock's new IAS shocks.  They are =
supposed to have a variable dampening valve that can respond to wheel =
and body inputs separately.  The result is a supple highway ride with =
little body roll in turns.  Sounds pretty good, but they are about $95 =
per pair.  They have them for G-body cars, as well as A-body cars, so if =
anybody else does have these shocks, please, do tell!  The only =
unfortunate thing is I have to wait until Christmas until I can get 'em. =
 College and spending money don't mix!  Thanks y'all (<-- a little =
southern talk thrown in for good measure!)

 Jason Adcock
 jadcock@vt.edu
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason

- -----Original Message-----
From:	Dan Lacey [SMTP:lacey@dsea.com]
Sent:	Monday, September 29, 1997 4:27 PM
To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:	Re: Suspension Q's

If you are going to do the PST thing (PolyGraphite?), then you are =
putting
alot of strain on the control arms. Better safe than sorry!!!


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 17:17:40 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Suspension Q's

> >Hey, everybody.  I have a question (no kidding!) about the rear suspension
> >on my 84 Cutlass.  I've heard that replacing the control arms with boxed
> >ones makes a dramatic difference in the handling of the car. 

I believe you have "semi-boxed" already if you have a sway bar.  In the
mid eighties, GM wimped on boxing them, and slid a "reinforcement" bar
in there, to bolt the sway bar to.  I suggest that if you are going all
out on your suspension, try an aftermarket bar set up such as Hotchkis,
or similar equipment.  If you just want an inexpensive improvement, and
you already have the sway bar, weld 1/4" steel plates to the bottom of
your existing arrangement, ensuring that the "insert" gets tacked in
place too, in case you ever undo the swaybar.  Every bit helps.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 17:32:16 -0400 (EDT)
From: KR442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Compression test

depending on milage you are in range and thats goo if your only 20 pounds
different if it runs good and doesnt smoke leave it alone   kr442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 18:40:42 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Really Dumb Wiper Question

Thanks to Jason, Charlie, Dr. Bob and Andy (I was really counting on 
him for this one! ;-) ). So it sounds like I press down on the side of 
the coil spring with a screwdriver to remove the things? I'll try it, as 
soon as it stops raining.

After all that, I realize now that I really don't like the ones I bought
anyway. Faced with a number of choices in the store (all of them black
unfortunately) I sprung for the "metal" blades. Better than cheapie plastic
ones I figured. Except, they come with a baggie of cheesy plastic adapters
to let them fit any car, none of which give me confidence. So if I figure
out how to get the original one off (one had been replaced previously with
a different black blade), I'm gonna get a matching aluminum one from the
junkyard and spring for refills (which I know how to remove BTW). ;-)

Funny that with Trico blades as original equipment, I don't ever see their
products in parts stores around here. "Tridon" seems to be the brand of
choice in these parts, at least by what I see in the stores.  That's what
I got, and I'm unimpressed. Why can't you buy anything other than black
blades anyway these days? 

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 17:40:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: MPHeiser@aol.com
Subject: Re: Source for Caliper hose bolts?

My mom works at a GM dealership in Illinois, where I get ALL my NOS parts...
 Anyway, I had some parts looked up for my 71 Sutlass, and the brake caliper
colt was one of them. They are still available, try part # 487293.  Although
that is for a 71, it should be the same.  Hope this helps.

Mark Heiser

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 17:45:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: TURBO38@aol.com
Subject: Re:  70 w-30

hey Doug the car will be out the body shop on thursday. the body is very
smooth. the car will be in primer. please let me know if you are interested
before i have it painted. 
thanks in advance.

will

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 16:23:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: John Kenneth Monnin <jkm0004@jove.acs.unt.edu>
Subject: 69 Cutlass with f-body disc brakes

Has anybody done a disc brake conversion to a 69 Cutlass using 
discbrakespindles and rotors from a second Generation F-Body?
I bought spindles and rotors off of a 77 Firebird because my 
friends(who have now claimed ignorance) claimed they would work great 
to lower the car.  When I called several suspension component companies 
they told me 3 different things. 
1) Might no be able to meet alignement specs.
2) Might have to modify lower control arm to accept F-body ball joints
3) Stock spindles and lowered springs will work better anyways...buy 
our kit.
Before I make a mistake by using these parts I would like to hear from 
anybody who has tried a similar swap or has front spindles for sale.

My new E-Mail address is johnmonnin1@juno.com.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 18:06:23 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: "B" Olds Head Question

At 04:51 PM 9/29/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Found a set of "B" heads with 389395-1 on top and bottom of head. 
>Doesnt the -1 denote something special like 442 heads?
>
>
>Thanks,
>olds442@en.com
>

To All

        The big valve "B" heads with the -1 casting number are somewhat
unique. As of 22 Apr 66 the head castings wore the -1 after the number.
Looking at the build time of the 66 W-30 cars being June of 66 the later
date codes on the heads would be correct for these cars. I gave a bit of bad
dope on them earlier. I was lead to believe that only the W-30 and L-69 cars
had -1 heads. Jim Stohlman gave me the correct skinny on these. The L-69
(Tri-carb) cars were available in late December 65. Therefore these cars
should have regular "B" heads. Not -1's. The W-30's will ALL have -1 heads
due to their late build date. ALL 66 W-30's were build on the Lansing line
in one production run. Build dates of these cars should be around 6180
(meaning 1966, 180th day) or so. Therefore, all of them will wear the -1
heads. So did all the other cars that year. The heads I've got are date
coded for the 137th and the 138th day of 1966. Meaning these were in the
window of the 90 days prior to all the 66 W-30's being nuilt. What I'm
getting at is that the later the date codes the better they are for the
W-30's. So far one of the latest date codes on a -1 "B" head is around 6150.
There could be later, but this is the latest we've noted. Remember that for
most restorations the acceptable dates for parts being installed on the car
is a MAX of 90 days prior to the build date of the car. Anything farther out
than that would require extensive documentation. Most judges for cars like
"Bloomington Gold", Platium Challenge and such will only allow the 90 days.
Hope this helps everyone identify these heads.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 18:14:01 -0400
From: Al Barlow <iamoz@ime.net>
Subject: Carburator Question

When I let my car set for a few days I have to pump the gas what seems like
forever before it starts. No problem when it sits for a few hours. Also,
when the car is cold it really bogs down, I really have to baby the gas or
it wants to die on me. Once it has warmed up it runs great. Any help would
be appreciated.

Al Barlow
1971 Olds 442 convertible
Thomaston, Maine

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 18:31:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: Klinsmann7@aol.com
Subject: Re: `70 442 vs W-30

could you easily put a w-30 engine into a standard 442?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 17:22:48 -0500
From: "MiLiT@Nt1" <militant1@geocities.com>
Subject: Re: Build Sheet Help

> > Can anyone tell me what any of this means?  It
> > is a '68 Delmont 88.
> > 364670
> I'm thinking this is either the body number of the last six of the vin.
> Check both these numbers and see if it matches one of them.

Maybe the body #... not any part of the VIN.

> > 5639-357
> Should this be 5439?  5439 is the model number for a Delmont 88 Holiday
> Sedan.  5400 is the series, 39 in the body style.  Olds didn't have a
> 5600 series (at least in '68).

Nope, it's definately a 6...

>  I'm thinking the 357 is the interior
> trim number.  7 is the code for white.  Do you have a white interior?

Sure do!

> >  A01 W39 Y71 A65
> A01 - Soft-Ray Tinted Windows

Yep

> W39 - Deluxe Front and Rear Lap and Front Shoulder Seat Belts

Yep

> Y71 - Custom Interior (most of the interior from the Delta 88)

Yep

> A65 - Custom Sport Front Bench Seat (part of Custom Interior)

Yep

> Do you have:
> bright door armrest backing plates?

Yes

> bright side and rear window interior moldings?

Yes

> rear door lamp switches?

Don't think so...  What or where are these?

> That would mean you have the Deluxe Interior Equipment as well.

Cool, thanks for the help!
- --
MiliT@Nt1 <militant1@geocities.com>   '68 Delmont 88 - 455
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 00:11:10 -0400
From: "Kerr, Brian (R)" <kerrb@basf-corp.com>
Subject: 69 Factory Assembly Manual

I had planned on going to Carlisle this week, and #1 on my list of things to 
buy was an assembly manual for a '69 Cutlass. My boss has shattered my plans 
for any days off due to our workload, so I will not be able to make the swap 
meet. Does anyone have one for sale, or suggest a vendor that sells them. 
Another option would be to ask/plead/beg for someone to pick up one for me 
at Carlisle. Any replies or assistance would be much appreciated.

Brian Kerr
Cambridge, Ontario Canada
69 Cutlass Conv ( in pieces, needs assembly manual)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 19:10:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: KR442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Build Sheet Help

WHAT IS WHAT MAYBEE I CAN HELP    KR442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 19:35:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: KR442@aol.com
Subject: Re: 69 Factory Assembly Manual

look in year one or kanter almost every olds parts order sells them around
29.00 I just ordered one from year one for my 65 CUTLASS 442 

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Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 19:39:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: KR442@aol.com
Subject: Re: 69 Factory Assembly Manual

HERE ARE SOME ADDRESS TO TRY 
1 YEAR ONE  1-800-950-9503  
2. KANTER AUTO  1-800-526-1096 
3.  BROTHERS AUTO 1-816-662-2060 
4. SPECIALTY OLDS  1-941-293-7966 
5. IM FINDING A LOT OF INFO IN YAHOO IN OLS RESTO. PARTS AND ACCES. 
                                           GOOD LUCK  KR442

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Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 19:41:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: KR442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Really Dumb Wiper Question

depending on style.
1 old blades have to be bent back to release clip or
2 if there is a little tab on top next to pin take a little screwdriver lift
up should release
3 or clip underneath if they are the slid ons 
4 if you bought refills take them back get whole thing pain in the --- to put
on        
                                not a DUMP QUESTION there should be dir. on
package if you cant figure it out  GOOD LUCK        KR442

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Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 19:29:19 -0400
From: Ken <olds442@en.com>
Subject: Re: "B" Olds Head Question

Jim & Joanne Chermack wrote:

> Hope this helps everyone identify these heads.
> 
> Jim Chermack

  Ok now that thats cleared up heres the deal I found, whadda ya think?


1970 455 block
1966 425 crank/rods
TRW L2214N 425 hi-compression forged pistons std. bore
"B" big valve heads w/ -1
Comp cams roller rockers
Comp cams springs
Comp cams .520 .520 292 292@.050
Comp cams lifters
Holley hi-volume fuel pump
Mellings hi-volume oil pump
Lakewood bellhousing
TH400 (code BT) reverse manual valve body
Edelbrock performer alum. intake (nice)
Edelbrock Torker alum. intake (nice)
Holley 750 DoublePumper
Holley 780 DoublePumper

All this is disassembled.  Engine had knock when cold which went away
once warm.  One or more cylenders prob wore out.. Combo supposed to have
around
10,000 miles on it.  All this... $500

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Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 19:45:07 -0400
From: Jay Britt <jbritt@nas1.360.cdpd.net>
Subject: 68 Cutlass S Convertible for sale

A coworker of mine is selling his 68 Cutlass S convertible. The body is
pretty rough, the top is torn but does work. The 350 2bl was rebuilt
about 12k ago, it has a Jetaway trans, open rear. The car runs well, but
needs a complete restoration. The car is located here in the Norfolk,VA
area.
He is not on the list, any replies can be sent directly to me at
jbritt@nas1.360.cdpd.net

Jay Britt
OCA#29460

- -- 
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Jay Britt                        360° Communications  
Systems Engineer             Wireless PBX & Data Services   
(757) 687-3317              One Columbus Center, Suite 530
(757) 473-0063 Fax          Virginia Beach, Virginia 23462
mailto:jbritt@nas1.360.cdpd.net           USA
url: http://www.360.com
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360° Communications' CDPD Wireless Data Services.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 19:46:27 -0400 (EDT)
From: C191145cal@aol.com
Subject: subscribe oldsmobile

Was out of town. Forgot to remove name from list.  Mail box full... sorry 

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Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 19:53:55 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Carburator Question

At 06:14 PM 9/29/97 -0400, you wrote:
Al

        The leakdown in the carb is usually caused by leaking well plugs
under the fuel bowl. This can be remedied by epoxying the tubes when it's
apart. It would also be a good time to throw a carb kit in it and rebuild
the entire thing. Make sure your needle and seat are in good condition too.
This can also cause some leakdown until the fuel pump can fill the carb back up.

Jim Chermack


>When I let my car set for a few days I have to pump the gas what seems like
>forever before it starts. No problem when it sits for a few hours. Also,
>when the car is cold it really bogs down, I really have to baby the gas or
>it wants to die on me. Once it has warmed up it runs great. Any help would
>be appreciated.
>
>Al Barlow
>1971 Olds 442 convertible
>Thomaston, Maine
>

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Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 17:11:01 -0700 (MST)
From: idaholc@primenet.com (william goodnight)
Subject: jason adcock

Whoever Jason  Adcock is, he is sure screwing up my downloading of e-mail.
Do Not! attach information, copy it instead to your message.  Eudora stops
on every attachment and waits for a command.  It would be so simple to copy
your messages to your e-mail.

 
Bill Goodnight
Goodnight & Associates, Inc.
idaholc@primenet.com
Boise, Idaho

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Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 20:08:31 -0700
From: "David, Terri and Rob" <hoagie@emeraldis.com>
Subject: Re: Olds Music

Robert Barry wrote:
> 
> >Every time I hear Sammy Hagar "I can't drive 55" on the radio, I
> >usually turn my radar detector up as loud as it can go to hopefully
> >hear it over the steroe,....and engine comming to life roar as I
> >watch my spedometer get higher and higher and higher.....:)
> >
> >> Everytime I hear the new Rolling Stones song's lyrics "Anybody seen my
> 
> Well, since we're reminiscing... I remember my "first time": it was in my
> '70 SX, and Van Halen's "Panama" came on the radio (then it was a new
> song...). I won't claim that song is a masterpiece, but at that time in that
> place, it was magic: foot on the throttle rounding a bend onto a long
> straightaway on the highway, speedo creeping up... 65, 70, <"panama"> 80...
> 85 <"Panama" boom boom...> 90... 95 <"PANAMA"!!!> _100_MPH!
> 
> There've been times since that I've gone much faster, and I'm sure there'll
> be times to come, but for a 16-year old on his way to school in his own car,
> that was a moment I'll never forget.
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918hey bob....you sound like you know your music...how about music 
videos???remember a lil ditty by the band Chicago...a song called.."Stay 
the Night"...the video featured a 1968 442 convertible driven by the 
most georgeous creature i have ever laid eyes on...if you ever saw it 
you would never forget it...the tires never stopped smoking for the 
whole video...lets see who knows this 1......hoagie

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Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 20:18:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: 87 44 info- thanks

[A[A
Thanks to all who replied with the 87 442 question & answers. Unfortunatley, I
depended on my brother to get to it quickly and he could not, I was tied up
Saturday, and another lucky buyer grabbed it up.

[A -- Chris  B. Witt
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

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Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 20:27:25 -0400 (EDT)
From: KR442@aol.com
Subject: Re: `70 442 vs W-30

YES !  most all olds engines 60s up can bolt up with no modifcations 260
threw 455 have same bolt patterns trans and motor mts . Olds is easy to
change mtrs depends if you want to stay orig.  If you are not showing it no
one can tell except for the numbers.and only you have to know .    good luck
!       kr442

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Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 19:43:54 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Rear axle seal

The seal on my right rear axle is leaking diff fluid and I need to replace
it. I have the new seal but would like to pull the axle without paying $40
to rent a slide hammer from the local parts store. It is the "O" type axle.
Does anyone have any tricks to getting the axle out without the special
tool? The same applies to the seal itself. Is it easy to get out without
using the special "puller"? What about replacing the seal? Is there any
special advice on the correct way to seat the new seal?  It seems there is a
special tool required for almost every task and they are expensive to rent
for only a few minutes use.
TIA

Mick Gillespie, Columbus, Indiana
69 Cutlass S convertible
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

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Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 20:53:19 -0400
From: "Adcock, Jason K." <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: jason adcock

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BCCD19.B80BF880
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Uhh, is anybody else getting attachments from me?  Cuz I'm sure as heck =
not attaching anything to my emails.  I use Outlook 97.  Maybe all the =
bugs aren't out just yet :)

 Jason Adcock
 jadcock@vt.edu
 http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/jason

- -----Original Message-----
From:	william goodnight [SMTP:idaholc@primenet.com]
Sent:	Monday, September 29, 1997 8:11 PM
To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:	jason adcock

Whoever Jason  Adcock is, he is sure screwing up my downloading of =
e-mail.
Do Not! attach information, copy it instead to your message.  Eudora =
stops
on every attachment and waits for a command.  It would be so simple to =
copy
your messages to your e-mail.

=20
Bill Goodnight
Goodnight & Associates, Inc.
idaholc@primenet.com
Boise, Idaho

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #876
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