To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #835


oldsmobile-digest      Friday, September 5 1997      Volume 01 : Number 835



Re: '64 VIN decode
Re: Carburetor number
Re: Offy Valve Covers (was re: '55 Close to Ready)
Re: Offy Valve Covers (was re: '55 Close to Ready)
Plastic Chrome
Re: Plastic Chrome
Re: Carburetor number
Re: advice on purchasing '70 442
paints in '70
Re: Brake Problems
RE: RE:Drum brake problem
Re: paints in '70
Re: advice on purchasing '70 442
Re: paints in '70
RE: paints in '70
Re: Carburetor number
Re: Mike's 88's Oil Pressure
Re: advice on purchasing '70 442
Re: Heat Leaks
Re: Quadra Qs, and 2.5 Problems...
Re: Olds delta 88 royale town sedan 1976 (help)
70 Rallye Info Needed!!!
Re: Olds delta 88 royale town sedan 1976 (help)
Re: Tail-Light Reflector for '55 Olds.
1964 Dynamic 88
8 Track player question
Re: Pertronix vs HEI
Re: CD-ROM with Olds List Digest, Etc.
68 Cutlass Parts
2.5 Problems...
Re: 8 Track player question
SB 42 update
SB 42 update
Re: SB 42 update
Re: Lansing Pics updated
Repro OAI hoods
Re: Cars-n-Parts salvage yards?
Re: Motion Olds - MCR
Junk Yard listings
55 Olds and electronic ignition options
Re: Carb Shop HEI conversion
Re: CD-ROM with Olds List Digest, Etc.
70 SX Heat Leaks
Re: Heat Leaks
69 H/O Fire Frost paint-coming soon to a paint store near you!
Re: Carb Shop HEI conversion

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 09:37:55 -0400
From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Subject: Re: '64 VIN decode

At 08:54 PM 9/4/97 -0700, you wrote:
>The newest addition's VIN is as follows - seems kind of short (its off the
>title).  The title also states is a CPE237 (gee, is the 237 supposed to be
>the beginning of the VIN?)
>
>Anyway, its as follows:
>
>824F004599

Lisa,

This VIN decodes as follows (and you're right, they were pretty skimpy in
the information provided)

8 = engine (V8)
2 = series (2 = F-85 Cutlass)
4 = model year (1964)
F = assembly plant (F = Fremont, California)
004599 = assembly sequence number at the Fremont plant beginning with
001005.  Thus, your car appears to be a very early '64, having been only
the 3,594th Olds built at Fremont for the '64 model year.


Dan


*********************************************
Dan Gulino
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/rides.html
*********************************************
see my "scrapbook" of photos from the recent Oldsmobile
Centennial held in Lansing, Michigan at
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/lansing/lansing.html
*********************************************

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 09:37:53 -0700
From: "J. Michael Wolfe" <boogah@en.com>
Subject: Re: Carburetor number

Daniel A. Gulino wrote:
>
> At 08:05 PM 9/4/97 -0700, you wrote:
> >Two questions:
> >
> >I need clarification on the difference between the "Net Horsepower"
> >rating used beginning for the 72 model year and the previous method
> >("Gross Method??) that was used prior to 72. Is there a big difference
> >in the performance of the 350 olds engine from 71 to 72?  For example,
> >the HP rating for the 71 350 2V  single exhaust is 240 , and the same
> >configuration for the 72 is 175 .  Are the engines basically the same
> >with the only difference being the different rating methods, or are
> >there other considerations also.
>
> Joe,
>
> I believe the difference between the pre-1972 HP ratings and the ones for
> 1972 and later is that, in 1972, the manufacturers began having to report
> the _net_ horsepower available to actually move the car after subtracting
> out all of the power losses to the engine due to added accessories and so
> forth.  The net rating is a more accurate measure of the power actually
> available to propel the car.
>
> Somebody please correct me if I don't have this right.
>
> Dan
>
> *********************************************************
> Dan Gulino
> gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
> http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/rides.html
> 1975 Delta 88 Convertible
> *********************************************************
> see photos of the Oldsmobile Centennial at
> http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/lansing/lansing.html
> *********************************************************
Dan:

You are hitting the nail on the head.  I guess what I was asking was
"Are the 2 engines identical except for the 2 different ways that the HP
is measured.
Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 06:45:45 -0700
From: Gary Andresen <gandresen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Offy Valve Covers (was re: '55 Close to Ready)

Yes they are ribbed and very nice looking.  Was just looking for the
receipt for price and part number, but can't find it right now. (That's
what I get for cleaning of my workbench.)

As I recall, they were around $185, including sales tax.  I go to as
many shows as I can, and have only seen them once.

Gary Andresen
'55 "88" 2-door HT (Running 455 Olds)

william goodnight wrote:
>
> >>The Offenhauser valve covers are polished cast aluminum.  They look
> >>pretty close
> >>in height to the originals, so don't know if they have enough learance
> >>for roller
> >>rockers. Won't put them on the car until I get it back from the
> >>body/paint guy.  The
> >>car that I saw with these on it was a'67 4-4-2 running a 400 with air,
> >>so don't think
> >>there should be a problem with the the stock A/C and alternator
> >>brackets?
> >
> >That's great info; thanks for the lead. I'm always on the lookout for
> >possible valve-cover candidates for my cars, and while there's always the
> >old chrome covers, I'd be interested in something a bit more unusual (right
> >now I've got a pair of stock covers with "wrinkle-black" finish on them;
> >different, but still not that interesting). The GM performance catalog also
> >lists a set of cast covers, but I'm afraid to look at the price.
> >
> >I'd really like some cast covers that will fit under the stock accessory
> >brackets, or fabricate some better looking accessory brackets that will be
> >compatible with tall valve covers.
> >_______________________________________________________
> >Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> >Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
> >
> >
> >I missed your previous discussion re: Valve Covers.  Apparently you located
> a source for aluminum valve covers for a 455!?  Are these finned aluminum?
> What is the price?  I am also in the market.  Thanks!
>
> Bill Goodnight
> Goodnight & Associates, Inc.
> idaholc@primenet.com
> Boise, Idaho

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 06:47:26 -0700
From: Gary Andresen <gandresen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Offy Valve Covers (was re: '55 Close to Ready)

They are not a stocked part, but Offenhauser will cast them on an
individual order basis.  It took about three weeks to get them.

Gary Andresen
'55 "88" 2-door HT (Running 455 Olds)

Robert Barry wrote:
>
> >>>The Offenhauser valve covers are polished cast aluminum.  They look
> <snip>
> >>That's great info; thanks for the lead. I'm always on the lookout for
> >>possible valve-cover candidates for my cars, and while there's always the
> >>old chrome covers, I'd be interested in something a bit more unusual (right
> >>now I've got a pair of stock covers with "wrinkle-black" finish on them;
> >>different, but still not that interesting). The GM performance catalog also
> >>lists a set of cast covers, but I'm afraid to look at the price.
> >
> >>I missed your previous discussion re: Valve Covers.  Apparently you located
> >a source for aluminum valve covers for a 455!?  Are these finned aluminum?
> >What is the price?  I am also in the market.  Thanks!
>
> I don't know the answer to any of your questions; the new list member just
> mentioned them. I've seen the Mickey Thompson covers, but don't like their
> "square" look. The GM Performance catalog lists a pair, but no price, just a
> part ª. And now these Offy covers: I imagine the only way to find out is to
> contact Offenhauser directly. Apparently, they're not heavily advertised, so
> availability may be limited.
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 09:52:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: CarrDuff@aol.com
Subject: Plastic Chrome

Does anyone here have a source for getting plastic pieces chromed ?
I need to get my Console Plate and my Instrument Bezell re-chromed.
Any info would be appreiciated

Steve Dietrich
  S/E PA
    71 442 W30Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 07:05:47 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@nfs.aisf.com>
Subject: Re: Plastic Chrome

CarrDuff@aol.com wrote:
>
> Does anyone here have a source for getting plastic pieces chromed ?
> I need to get my Console Plate and my Instrument Bezell re-chromed.
> Any info would be appreiciated
>
> Steve Dietrich
>   S/E PA
>     71 442 W30Conv.

Wasn't there some talk a while back about a milar tape that could be
used to rechrome plastic?

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 10:22:00 -0400
From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Subject: Re: Carburetor number

At 09:37 AM 9/5/97 -0700, you wrote:

>You are hitting the nail on the head.  I guess what I was asking was
>"Are the 2 engines identical except for the 2 different ways that the HP
>is measured.
>Thanks

I would think that they are, except for perhaps any model year-to-model
year changes.



Dan


*********************************************
Dan Gulino
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/rides.html
*********************************************
see my "scrapbook" of photos from the recent Oldsmobile
Centennial held in Lansing, Michigan at
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/lansing/lansing.html
*********************************************

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Sep 1997 10:59:42 -0400
From: Ed Burger <eburger@sagelink.com>
Subject: Re: advice on purchasing '70 442

Are there any 442 catalogs online that I could start hunting parts down
in?  I intend to restore it, but I'm fine with cruising in it with stuff
that only works for a few years 'til I an hunt down all the right parts
(at the right price!).

Are there any good 442 sites online?  The only site I really found was
www.442.com.  There weren't many links from there tho.

Buy it!  If the body is real solid, you can't go wrong for 2200.  Figure

out why you want it first. Is it for restoration?  Are you just wanting
a cool street rod?  If you want to restore it, think about all that cash

you'll lay down for getting the "right" parts, then double it.
(restoration factor)

If not, then it should be a real nice cruiser.  Maybe you can trade the
71/72 bumper for the 70 style, and you'd be on the right path.

Anyway, 2200 is not a bad price.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Sep 1997 11:01:16 -0400
From: Ed Burger <eburger@sagelink.com>
Subject: paints in '70

What paints were available in '70 for a 442?

Thanks,
Ed

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 08:23:19 -0700
From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Subject: Re: Brake Problems

When my 66 98 had the 4 wheel drum setup and single master you have, they
were touchy too. Should be touchier when cold, mine loosened up when warmed
up. I always liked the lack of pedal travel. I got much more travel when I
swapped over to dual master and front discs, which is an option for you, if
you're into it, from a $ and originality perspective.

At the very least from a safety perspective, you should switch the master
to a dual circuit system, much safer. When you blow a hose you don't lose
_a_l_l_ your braking, only half. IMHO, anyway.

The way I did this was to swap in a 70 front disc setup. Swap everything
between the A-Arms plus the hydraulics. I can give you much more detail on
this if needed.

cf


>On my 65 Jetstar I the brakes (power w/4 drums) are really touchy.  I
>mean really really touchy.  I have locked all 4 up while stopping on
>occasion, especially if you need to stop fairly quickly.  This is
>especially annoying at low speed.  When I'm rolling along at idle it is
>hard to slow down without immediately stopping.  It feels as though
>there is too much power assist.  Is there any way to adjust the assist
>on power brakes?
>
>Thank You.
>Rick Anderson
>Clarkston,MI
>'65 Jetstar I

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 10:23:50 -0500
From: CHANNING HINKLE <channing.hinkle@adtran.com>
Subject: RE: RE:Drum brake problem

I have a 71 Cutlass with all drum brakes.  When the car is not running
the brake pedal seems normal enough, but when the car is running the
pedal almost goes to the floor before the drums catch & then they barely
catch.  The car set up for about 2 years & was fine until then.  I've
changed the master cylinder, checked all the brake cylinders & even
rebuilt the front ones (they were really bad).  Can't find any leaks.
Any ideas???


My drum brakes are indeed power brakes.  The master cylinder was bled.
It is a rebuilt one.  The old master cylinder had exactly the same
problems; no improvement with the new one.  The cylinders I rebuilt are
definitely not leaking.  I have looked at the rear ones while someone
presses the brakes, but did not see any signs of brake fluid leaking.
The system has been bled twice to be sure.  As far as the adjustment of
the shoes, can you tell me how to adjust them properly?  Don't seem to
be losing any fluid out of the reservoir.

Could this have anything to do with the "proportioning valve"?  How
about defective power booster?  I know the booster is at least working
partially due to the brake pedal is not hard.  When I pull the vacuum
off of it the pedal is rock hard.  Another guy mentioned the brake
hoses; that seems to be a possibility.

Thanks again.
This mailing list is really great.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 08:25:27 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@nfs.aisf.com>
Subject: Re: paints in '70

Ed Burger wrote:
>
> What paints were available in '70 for a 442?
>
> Thanks,
> Ed

We need to get these paint chip sheets onto a common web site.
I have 68 and 72, Andrew Senko I believe has 71.  Who has 69 and
70?

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 08:34:16 -0700
From: Brad Bowles <wolds@napanet.net>
Subject: Re: advice on purchasing '70 442

Ed Burger wrote:
>
> Hello list,
>     There is a '70 Olds 442 for sale locally that I am thinking of
> purchasing.  It is not a W-30 car.  It has a good running (original)
> 455, with an HEI.  The body is in primer right now, ready for paint (all
> the bumpers, etc are removed).  The interior is in very nice shape,
> except the front buckets are not original (they are from an 80's
> Camaro).  It has 14" Rally-II rims with tires, and he is throwing in a
> set of 15" Rally-II rims as well.  The front bumper is real nice.  The
> rear bumper is actually a '72 and could use a re-chroming.  All the
> electrics work.  The stereo is a non-stock am/fm/cassette.  It has an
> aftermarket rear de-fogger (the installation is very nice).  It does not
> have the rally gauges.  It has air, but its all disconnected.  The top
> end of the engine has recently been rebuilt.  It has an offy aluminum
> manifold and a Holley dual feed 850.  It has the orig. intake and carb
> too.
>
> Uhm ... I think thats everything.  The owners wants $2200, which seems
> an incredible deal.... am I right?
>
> Thanks for you replies,
> Ed


Sounds like a great deal!  Jump on it!  But make sure you can get
anything that he as removed, like the intake and carb.  Check up on that
bumper too, the originals with the exhaust cutouts are rare.
Brad
70 442

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 11:30:08 -0400 (EDT)
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: Re: paints in '70

Ed,
Your in luck! I j happened to pick up a paint chip brochure.
10 Porcelain White                      50 Bamboo
14 Platinum                                55 Galleon Gold
19 Ebony Black                          58 Burnished Gold
20 Azure Blue                            63 Copper
25 Astro Blue                             75 Matador Red
28 Twilight Blue                          78 Burgundy Mist
34 Reef Turqoise
45 Aspen Green                      Special Order Colors:
48 Sherwood Green                         38 Aegean Aqua
                                                      51 Sebring Yellow
                                                      53 Nugget Gold
                                                      73 Rally Red
I hope that this helps you out!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 08:21:52 -0700
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: RE: paints in '70

I have a table of paint codes on my web site at:

http://home1.gte.net/betzel/BE.html

It shows the GM code (yours was 58 Burnished Gold) and the other GM cars
that had the same paint, but was called a different color. For a 1970
Pont. 58 was called Granada Gold. You can go to a NAPA store that sells
paint and they should still have the paint chips for the color you
select.  That is were I got the information for the table. It is from
their Martin Senour Paint charts for 1970. Hope this helps and good luck
with your 442.


Bobby
70 442 Escape Back to the ....Past


-----Original Message-----
From:Ed Burger [SMTP:eburger@sagelink.com]
Sent:Thursday, September 04, 1997 11:01 AM
To:Olds Mailing List
Subject:paints in '70

What paints were available in '70 for a 442?

Thanks,
Ed

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 15:27:12 GMT
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Carburetor number

>I need clarification on the difference between the "Net Horsepower"
>rating used beginning for the 72 model year and the previous method
>("Gross Method??) that was used prior to 72. Is there a big difference
>in the performance of the 350 olds engine from 71 to 72?  For example,
>the HP rating for the 71 350 2V  single exhaust is 240 , and the same
>configuration for the 72 is 175 .  Are the engines basically the same
>with the only difference being the different rating methods, or are
>there other considerations also.

The engines are identical, except the '72 has hardened exhaust valve seats,
and bigger exhaust valves (well, I haven't checked the size of the valves on
the pair of'71 heads in my basement, so they might have the biggies as well,
but I don't think so). As far as performance is concerned, all the critical
elements (cam, carb jetting, compression, etc.) is virtually identical, so
they probably have identical hp.

In fact, didn't GM release both Gross and Net ratings for their '71 engines?
That would reveal the similarities and differences. The Net rating is the hp
from the engine running as it would installed in a car, with water pump,
accessories, full exhaust, etc, whereas the Gross rating may or may not have
involved such items, and was performed based on a more favorable atmospheric
standard (cooler air temp etc).


>Is the correct carburetor on a 72 350 2V 7042156?

I can check that tonight; that is a '72 Olds 2-bbl carb though. What's the
application What it's supposedly from?

Oh, and Al said:
>The book I have shows the correct carb number for the 72 -350 as 7042250.

Yes, for the 4-bbl, that's right.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 15:27:17 GMT
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Mike's 88's Oil Pressure

>If I can find a 425 I will
>rebuild that.  I understand about the .921 lifter/39 deg toro blocks and
>the .842 lifter/45 deg 88/98/wagon blocks, I'd like to find the Toro
>block if I can.
>
>Here is what I plan to do:     HV Oil Pump
>      (HP add-ons)             Crane 260 max. velocity cam
>                         (260/272 adv. dur, .456/.484 lift)
>                               Double roller timing set
>                               '78 350 wagon Q-jet
>                               (still being rebuilt)
>                               Oil cooler (w/Diesel oil filter mount)
>
>The rest will be a stock 425 rebuild.  All I need is torque

If you want torque, then stick with the 455; it would be easier to find, it
will make more torque than the 425 (though a 425 would make plenty of
torque; it's just that the 455 would make *more*), and the specs you give
wouldn't take full advantage of the 425's rev capacities. That cam would
make torque, though! Sounds like a good combination, and will make your 88
"noticeably peppier" :)

It's definitely a good idea to rebuild a big-block, if you've got a
small-block in need of replacement. I wasn't sure where I'd be living when I
started rebuilding, so emissions-legality was a big concern of mine. Now
that I live where there's no visual inspection, I would have built a 455
instead of my 403 (after all, 409 cubic inches isn't quite enough... :)

Now, what are you going to do about exhaust manifolds, and a crossmember for
a true dual exhaust?
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 15:27:01 GMT
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: advice on purchasing '70 442

>    There is a '70 Olds 442 for sale locally that I am thinking of
>purchasing.  It is not a W-30 car.  It has a good running (original)

Is it an automatic or a 4-speed?

>455, with an HEI.  The body is in primer right now, ready for paint (all
>the bumpers, etc are removed).  The interior is in very nice shape,
>except the front buckets are not original (they are from an 80's
>Camaro).  It has 14" Rally-II rims with tires, and he is throwing in a
>set of 15" Rally-II rims as well.  The front bumper is real nice.  The
>rear bumper is actually a '72 and could use a re-chroming.  All the

You can get a repro dual-cutout '70 bumper from lots of places (~$340, but
you'll also need the lenses, lights, etc; probably better to get a good
takeoff bumper with all those pieces), so that's not too bad a value. Is the
'72 a cutout bumper? After you get the '70 bumper on there, you can sell the
'72 as a core.

>electrics work.  The stereo is a non-stock am/fm/cassette.  It has an
>aftermarket rear de-fogger (the installation is very nice).  It does not
>have the rally gauges.  It has air, but its all disconnected.  The top

The fact that the original wiring is not butchered is a real plus; the air
can be reconnected with very little difficulty; you might have to have hoses
made up, but most of the other parts are easily (if not cheaply) available.

>end of the engine has recently been rebuilt.  It has an offy aluminum
>manifold and a Holley dual feed 850.  It has the orig. intake and carb
>too.

How many miles on it?

>Uhm ... I think thats everything.  The owners wants $2200, which seems
>an incredible deal.... am I right?

If I were looking for a '70 442, and it ran well, and I had $2200, I'd snap
it up ASAP.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 15:27:27 GMT
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Heat Leaks

>Reading Sparky's heat woes reminds me we have a problem with heat in the 70
>SX.
>
>The side of the metal dash to the left of the steering column, only the left,
>gets hotter than h--- after about 30 minutes of driving.  I've search all
>over the firewall and sealed anything that even looks like a leakage source
>to the interior.  No luck.

Hmmm, could it be caused by an electrical short, or a wire getting hot?
There are grommets to the firewall all over there, and the brake booster
support bracket on the passenger side of the firewall could be conducting
heat to the dash (there's a metal support bracket I believe that bolts to
the dash in that area). Hmmm, that's odd, though.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 15:27:28 GMT
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Quadra Qs, and 2.5 Problems...

>Yea, I have a feeling it's going to be either pulling the pan, or

Is the pan completely accessible from under the car with the engine
installed? That's one benefit of FWD; no crossmember to bother with when
pulling the pan, though sometimes the tranny case will interfere.

>and I can dig back into that 2.5 litre.  Oh, and the 350 got oil pressure
>after only a few cranks with the distributor disconnected :)  Now all I

Yeah, I forgot to mention that the Olds oil pump can apparently prime
itself. I did check this out before installing it, though! Sometimes I
actually learn from my mistakes...
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 15:27:29 GMT
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Olds delta 88 royale town sedan 1976 (help)

>Could anyone give me any information about a oldsmobile delta 88 royale
>town sedan from 1976. I cant find anything about it anywhere.

Well, what do you want to know? For one thing, it's big... ;)

Are you looking for production numbers? Mechanical information?
Specifications? Standard features, and options availability? Factory colors?

Are you looking to buy one, and want advice on what to look for? Or do you
already own one, and you're looking for information on restoring it? Or
modifying it?

There's a lot of people here who would know the answers to your questions,
but I've seen that the more specific your questions are, the better the
answers are that you get. I'll tell you the little that I know about that 
car...

That was the last year of the '71-'76 body style, before they downsized for
the '77 model year. They went to the more "modern" square headlights, which
is a distinguishing feature of the '76's. The Royale was the top-of-the-line
88, I believe, but still one step down from the 98. I thought town sedan
denoted a non-hardtop bodystyle (post between the front and rear side
windows), but you can tell that yourself.

Air bags were available as an option, as were 8-track and cassette players,
as well as a factory-installed CB (ah, a real period piece!). It also had
the factory 5mph bumpers, which, when properly modified, is the hot setup
for demolition-derby derby use (or parallel parking... ;). Yours probably
has full power everything, and A/C. It's unlikely that trim pieces will ever
be reproduced for your car, so if something's missing, get it from a
junkyard as fast as you can; you might even be lucky enough to find some NOS
pieces, but get them while you can, and don't dicker over the price.

The 455 was still available, but that was the last year for it. The car
would come equipped with both EGR and a catalytic converter, so it's
definitely considered a "smog-motor" car. I'm quite sure that the 350 would
be standard in just about any 88 model, though.

Others can fill you in on the details, especially on what made the "Royale"
special.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 11:36:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: 70 Rallye Info Needed!!!

Hello! I'm looking at a Rallye350 and I would like to get some good
information on it! I already have the standard equipment but would like to
know from somebody who owns one or has seen one how they liked it! How did it
ride? This one is an automatic on console. If I buy it I plan on driving it
more than the w31! My next question is about striping. How do I go about
striping? How much would they cost and who sells them? How about parts. If I
get it I would probably put in a dual gate! Has anyone ever done this before?
I've gotten some good information form a list buddy, but would like to hear
from other people! Please send me information on the Rallye! I plan on
picking up some brochures this sunday at a show! Thankyou!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 11:58:00 -0400
From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Subject: Re: Olds delta 88 royale town sedan 1976 (help)

At 03:27 PM 9/5/97 GMT, you wrote:
>Others can fill you in on the details, especially on what made the "Royale"
>special.

I think that Royale pretty much meant nothing more than a bit fancier trim,
a fancy "R" on the door panels, fancier wheel covers, and so forth.
Perhaps a bit more sound deadening material, too.


Dan


*********************************************
Dan Gulino
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/rides.html
*********************************************
see my "scrapbook" of photos from the recent Oldsmobile
Centennial held in Lansing, Michigan at
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/lansing/lansing.html
*********************************************

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 11:52:38 -0700
From: LARRY POLESNAK <ham@fan.net>
Subject: Re: Tail-Light Reflector for '55 Olds.

Gary Andresen wrote:
>
> The reflector plastic in one of the Tail-Light Assemblies was cracked
> during dis-assembly for chroming, so I need to track down one of those.
>
> Would appreciate a lead on one, or the material to shape one for use.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gary Andresen
> '55 "88" 2-door HT
Hi Gary, call this company they might be able to help you..Specialty
Olds
1-800-622-2024 there in Florida.. Larry Polesnak

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 09:11:38 -0700
From: Gary Manton <sasgmm@unx.sas.com>
Subject: 1964 Dynamic 88

I'm new to this listserve, just subscribed today, and am purchasing a 1964
Olds Dynamic 88 Convertible.  Is there anything special I should know about
this model or vehicle?  How can I find out how many are still on the road?
I believe that it has the original 394? with a new 4 barrel carb.  Any
suggestions on fuel or maintenance would be greatly appreciated.  Someone
recommended to get some octane booster for it, but I while wait and hear.

Thanks for your help.

Gary
          \\|//
          (o o)
~~~~~~oOOo~(_)~oOOo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Gary M. MantonSAS Institute
Business Solutions DivisionPhoenix, AZ  85012
(602) 265-1616 ext. 230 - voice        (602) 265-8585 - fax

"In business as in life, your chances of being run over are doubled
if you stay in the middle of the road"
~~~~~~oooo~~~~~oooo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 12:32:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: 8 Track player question

Hello. I went to Lansing and bought an 8 track player for a 1971 442 and I
was told it would fit a 1970 w31. I would like to know what wires go where
and how do I test it out. Thankyou!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 12:05:06 -0500
From: "Easton,Jeffrey" <Jeff.Easton@abbott.com>
Subject: Re: Pertronix vs HEI

From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>

>Been there, tried it, pulled it.
>The problem I had was the rotating assembly with the magnets ended up
>crashing into the Hall Effect sensor.  Year One took it back with no
>questions asked (great service).  I think the rotating ring is not well
>balanced thus causing wobble and eventual crash.  Luckily I kept the
>points and condensor in the glove compartment, so I was back on the road
>in 15 minutes.

Uh-oh.  On mine I noticed that the ring wasnt "true".  If rotated the
clearence
to the sensor varied.  I just assumed that if the total gap was under the
specified
amount in the docs it would be okay.  Didnt think about it flying apart at
speed.

Did yours actually self destruct?  Scuff marks on the sensor? Ring broken?

- -Jeff
jeff.easton@abbott.com
somewhere north of Chicago
1970 442  4-speed

see the archives at http://www.calcon.net/~easton

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 12:09:24 -0500
From: "Easton,Jeffrey" <Jeff.Easton@abbott.com>
Subject: Re: CD-ROM with Olds List Digest, Etc.

From: Robert A Sanders <rsanders@holly.colostate.edu>

>What is the OCA and what is the FAQ and Digest.  I'm new to this web site
and
>am
>desparately seeking info about my 55 Olds.  Thanks for your help.

OCA = Olds Club of America
Digest = Once a day (more or less) compliation of all the posts to this email
list.
FAQ = David Browns excellent Frequently Asked Questions document

Check my site www.calcon.net/~easton for all the previous Digests, and a
link to the official OCA web site.  Check Brycemans web site, www.442.com
for additional info and a link to the FAQ.

- -Jeff
jeff.easton@abbott.com
somewhere north of Chicago
1970 442  4-Speed

see the archives at http://www.calcon.net/~easton

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 13:36:33 -0400 (EDT)
From: ZimbyJr@aol.com
Subject: 68 Cutlass Parts

I have a 68 Cutlass conv. and need one part to complete interior.  Do you
have the litttle round retaining ring that screws onto the windshield wiper
control.  It turns screws into the dash and holds the wiper control to the
dash insert.  It kinda looks like a spray can lid with a nickel sized hole in
it.

Let me know.

Thanks Rob
'68 Cutlass Conv.
zimbyjr@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 12:05:32 -0600 (MDT)
From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Subject: 2.5 Problems...

> >Yea, I have a feeling it's going to be either pulling the pan, or
>
> Is the pan completely accessible from under the car with the engine
> installed? That's one benefit of FWD; no crossmember to bother with when
> pulling the pan, though sometimes the tranny case will interfere.

Well, it's *almost* accesable from under there.  The main
interference is from the trans case, and from the U shaped bracket that
supports the front of the block on the lower motor mount (the front of the
pan sits right under it, and there is virtually no room here to work.)
But, I'm hoping that I'll be able to get the thing down far enough to get
at the pump, even if I can't completly remove the pan.  I've got three
socket u-joints, and enough extentions to reach my neighbors cars, so
hopefully I can do this without the procedure recomended by the
manual--droping half the subframe for clearance.  I actually think pulling
the engine back out would be easier!


Scott
1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 12:41:07 -0600
From: Art Pforr <artp@iem.com>
Subject: Re: 8 Track player question

I can fax you a copy of the wiring diagram for 1968
At 12:32 PM 9/5/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Hello. I went to Lansing and bought an 8 track player for a 1971 442 and I
>was told it would fit a 1970 w31. I would like to know what wires go where
>and how do I test it out. Thankyou!
>
IEM, Inc.
Art Pforr
Customer Service
Hardware Technical Support
Phone 970-221-3005
Fax 970-221-3709
artp@iem.com
http://www.iem.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 11:48:43 -0700
From: Erik Nowacki <enowacki@titan.com>
Subject: SB 42 update

Hi All,

I just received this from Senator Kopp regardig the law that will exempt
certain cars from California's draconian smog requirements.  It sounds like
good news.  Lets keep calling those politicians.

BTW, I just got my VC back on track with a rebuilt engine.  It's a 455
from a '68 Delta.  I had the compression reduced to 9.5 (to be able to run
pump gas), a Mondello 20-22 cam, Edelbrock performer intake, stock Q-jet,
HEI and Rhoades lifters.

Does anyone have any breakin do's and dont's.  I am going to take it up to
the Julian show tomorrow.  Hope to see Lisa there.  Is anyone else going?


Erik Nowacki
San Diego
72 Vista Cruiser

>
>                                 MEMORANDUM
>
>        From:     Senator Quentin L. Kopp
>
>        To:       Supporters of SB 42
>
>        Subject:  Status of SB 42
>
>        I am pleased to report to the many supporters of SB 42
>        that the bill was approved by the Assembly Appropriations
>        Committee on September 4, 1997 on a 20-1 vote.  The bill now
>        proceeds to the Assembly Floor for a vote by the full Assembly;
>        this will occur as early as Monday, September 8, 1997.
>
>        The Assembly Appropriations Committee adopted amendments
>        to SB 42 which would freeze the 25 model year and older smog
>        check exemption for five years, at which time the exemption
>        would become a "rolling" 30-year exemption.  In other words, the
>        bill's provisions would move the current 1965 exemption year
>        cutoff forward to 1973 and maintain that exemption year until
>        2003.  The amendments were promulgated by the committee as
>        changes necessary to move the bill to the Assembly Floor.
>        Obviously, I prefer the previous version of the bill.
>        Notwithstanding the amendments, passage of the bill represents a
>        substantial victory for those backing the bill.
>
>        I urge you to continue to convey your support to your
>        respective representatives in the Assembly and inform Governor
>        Wilson of your views.  We are one step closer, and a large one
>        at that, to securing the relief embodied in SB 42.  Thank you
>        again for all you have done and are doing.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 11:48:43 -0700
From: Erik Nowacki <enowacki@titan.com>
Subject: SB 42 update

Hi All,

I just received this from Senator Kopp regardig the law that will exempt
certain cars from California's draconian smog requirements.  It sounds like
good news.  Lets keep calling those politicians.

BTW, I just got my VC back on track with a rebuilt engine.  It's a 455
from a '68 Delta.  I had the compression reduced to 9.5 (to be able to run
pump gas), a Mondello 20-22 cam, Edelbrock performer intake, stock Q-jet,
HEI and Rhoades lifters.

Does anyone have any breakin do's and dont's.  I am going to take it up to
the Julian show tomorrow.  Hope to see Lisa there.  Is anyone else going?


Erik Nowacki
San Diego
72 Vista Cruiser

>
>                                 MEMORANDUM
>
>        From:     Senator Quentin L. Kopp
>
>        To:       Supporters of SB 42
>
>        Subject:  Status of SB 42
>
>        I am pleased to report to the many supporters of SB 42
>        that the bill was approved by the Assembly Appropriations
>        Committee on September 4, 1997 on a 20-1 vote.  The bill now
>        proceeds to the Assembly Floor for a vote by the full Assembly;
>        this will occur as early as Monday, September 8, 1997.
>
>        The Assembly Appropriations Committee adopted amendments
>        to SB 42 which would freeze the 25 model year and older smog
>        check exemption for five years, at which time the exemption
>        would become a "rolling" 30-year exemption.  In other words, the
>        bill's provisions would move the current 1965 exemption year
>        cutoff forward to 1973 and maintain that exemption year until
>        2003.  The amendments were promulgated by the committee as
>        changes necessary to move the bill to the Assembly Floor.
>        Obviously, I prefer the previous version of the bill.
>        Notwithstanding the amendments, passage of the bill represents a
>        substantial victory for those backing the bill.
>
>        I urge you to continue to convey your support to your
>        respective representatives in the Assembly and inform Governor
>        Wilson of your views.  We are one step closer, and a large one
>        at that, to securing the relief embodied in SB 42.  Thank you
>        again for all you have done and are doing.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 12:07:22 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@nfs.aisf.com>
Subject: Re: SB 42 update

Erik Nowacki wrote:

>         Does anyone have any breakin do's and dont's.  I am going to take it
up to > the Julian show tomorrow.  Hope to see Lisa there.  Is anyone else
going?

I am not going.  Too far for me.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 12:24:57 -0700
From: Gary Andresen <gandresen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Lansing Pics updated

Beautiful job.

Andrew A. Senko wrote:
>
> I have updated my site that contains the pictures from Lansing.  It now has
> an HTML page with links and descriptions of the pictures.  I have added
> JPEG versions of the pictures which are the same size picture as the GIF's,
> but in smaller files for faster download.
>
> I have also added links to the other people's sites that contain Centennial
> coverage (pictures/stories).
>
> Again the URL is   http://members.aol.com/drewinva/olds/lansing
>
> Enjoy!
>  --                                                              _
>                                1971 Oldsmobile                   |\
> Drew Senko                     Cutlass Supreme    .__====-_._____|_\______
> senko@reston.ans.net             Convertible      [   ___  |-     |  ___  \
> http://members.aol.com/drewinva                   =\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)
> ______________________________________________________\_/____________\_/_____

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 14:38:15 -0500 (CDT)
From: Rick Kromeich <rickk@ecg.csg.mot.com>
Subject: Repro OAI hoods

As others are searching like myself, Jim Chermack recommended ASC&P out of
Penn. for a repro OAI  hood.  I just spoke with them, their product sounds
very good (haven't seen one), but they had a fire recently and are just
getting back into business.  They don't expect to have any hoods til
Feb. or March of next year. They are also not taking a waiting list.

Oh well, the search continues.

- -Rick
72 Cutlass Sumpreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Sep 1996 13:54:28 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Cars-n-Parts salvage yards?

Scott R Clark wrote:
>
>         The other day I was in the local Barns and Noble book store
> thumbing through some of their automotive section when I found a book
> published by Cars and Parts magazine about some of the salvage yards in
> the Western U.S.  I was surprised (in a really good way) to find a whole
> bunch of info on yards in Western Montana...some only a couple hours drive
> from where I live!  According to the book, the Flathead Valley (3 hours
> north of here) is just a goldmine of salvage yards for old cars of all
> makes.  One of the places they mention is called Wishers, up in Kalispell.
> I guess it's an absolutly huge yard up there just filled with good stuff.

Some members had heard rumors of the place, but no one had ever been
able to find it or even confirm its existance, if it's the same one I
remember hearing about, anyway.  Wait, maybe that one was in
Washington.  It's been a while, I just can't remember anymore.  Hmm...
If you make it there, good luck and happy hunting!  :)

             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
             Box 524               | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Sidney, Montana 59270 | http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "TRBO LVR" (Maybe???:)| '83 Turbo Regal
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Sep 1996 13:57:43 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Motion Olds - MCR

NotDads442@aol.com wrote:
>
> Charlie,  It was Popular Mechanics.  I just recently subscribed and saw a
> snippett about the car in a recent issue.  The car looks great and they are
> planning to auction it off sometime.  They made no mention of when though.
>  They are going to take bids by mail would be my guess.
>

Hmm....  I'll give 'em $200.  $400 if they get that bowtie out of
there!!!  :)  If they'd kept it Rocket powered they'd propbably want to
keep it.  Some will ~never~ learn...
> - --
>
>              Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
>              Box 524               | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
>              Sidney, Montana 59270 | http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
>              "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
>              "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
>              "TRBO LVR" (Maybe???:)| '83 Turbo Regal
>                      Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

- --

             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
             Box 524               | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Sidney, Montana 59270 | http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
     "TRBO LVR" (Maybe???:)| '83 Turbo Regal
                    Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 15:58:07 -0400 (EDT)
From: BobH592058@aol.com
Subject: Junk Yard listings

<<The other day I was in the local Barns and Noble book store
thumbing through some of their automotive section when I found a book
published by Cars and Parts magazine about some of the salvage yards in
the Western U.S.  >>

Do you know if there is a similar publication for other parts of the US???

Bob Handren (AKA MajorDOMA)
OCA/OCFª 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 16:13:43 -0400 (EDT)
From: BobH592058@aol.com
Subject: 55 Olds and electronic ignition options

Bob Sanders wrote:

<<Date: Thu, 04 Sep 1997 12:05:45 -0600
From: Robert A Sanders <rsanders@holly.colostate.edu>
Subject: Re: Pertronix vs HEI

I have a 55 Olds with a 324 cid engine.  Will any year HEI fit in the
motor?>>

Nope, completely diferent housing.

<< If
not, I guess then that the Pertronix is my only option to upgrade to
electronic
ignition.  Any helpful comments will be appreciate>>

Pertronix is one approach, also consider the MSD and similar Mallory systems.
 You can hide the control box, if you want.  Since the points are only used
to trigger the unit you've still solved a problem by cutiing the amperage
across the points to darn near zilch.  The current flow is what eventually
kills a points set.

Bob Handren (AKA MajorDOMA)
OCA/OCFª 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 16:15:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: BobH592058@aol.com
Subject: Re: Carb Shop HEI conversion

Todd Morris wrote:

<<combinations of weights, springs, quantity and rate of advance make this
fairly complex.  (snip)>>


Actually it shouldn't be that hard Todd. While a distributor machine makes it
a piece of cake, one of the timing lights that give you timing advance values
at each step works just as well.  After all, your engine can do anything the
distributor machine can.

You and Dr. Bob posted similar approaches and they will work but can, in my
epxerience, get pretty confusing. For instance, some of the advance curve
kits recommend removing or replacing the sleeve over the pin in the
mechanical advance mechanism.  This makes using the original initial timing
value a potential problem.  A slightly different approach has worked for me.

The first place I would suggest starting is with the specs Olds established
for your engine in the first place. They can be found in a Motor manual
covering the year of your car.  Interestingly, my GM service manuals (for my
cars anyway) don't give these values but Motor's does. Using a timing light
you can set up the distrubutor advance characterisitics to match those of the
original points distributor. But those values are the "compromise" settings
given mass production tolerances, etc.

The other way is to match your distributor to your engines requirements.  I
usually don't pay much attention to initial advance at the beginning of this
exercise because what you're looking for is actually the total advance,
initial + mechanical + vacuum.

In-the-ballpark numbers are about 35 degress total initial and mechanical
advance and limitation of vacuum advance to about 10-15 degrees. Most of the
HEI's I've played with have 20+ degrees of vacuum advance.  Too much.

Disconnect the vacuum from the advance pot.  Using a timing light with
advance measurement capability, check and set the total initial + mechanical
advance.  You'd like the mechanical advance to be fully in by ~1500 to ~2500
rpm and be about ~35 degrees total (without vacuum).  Set the distributor at
this total advance position.  Depending on auto vs. manual, compression
ratio, cam, etc. you may need a little less.  I've found that an Olds engine
usually doesn't like initial + mechanical (centrifugal) of more than 36
degrees.

Since this early advance (compared to stock) usually means lighter springs
than stock, the inital timing value is many times much different from
published "tune-up" values and therefore pretty much irrelevent.  My neighbor
with a 66 GTO went bonkers trying to make the two agree (initial and
mechanical) for a Mallory unit he was installing until I pointed this out.
Took about 5 minutes after that.

To check the vacuum advance,  use a vacuum pump attached to the can and the
same timing light. Adjust the vacuum max setting accordingly.

That's what I do and my .02 worth.

The fellow OCF member who just installed an HEI in his 65 Starfire did find
some air cleaner interference.  His first thought was to massage the housing
since he has more than one.  He came up with a more elegant solution, well
sort of, ;-).  He used a trimmed tomato juice can to space the air cleaner up
about a 1".  Spacers and adapters are frequently included in aftermarket
one-fits-all chrome aircleaner.  But the 65 425 doesn't use a Q-Jet. It uses
a Rochester 4V with a smaller ring diameter. I thought his solution was
pretty clever and the basic approach applies to all carbs/air cleaner
housings.

So which can size fits a 2V diameter?  :-)

The only disadvantage of the HEI IMO is the lack of a rev limiter.  Be
careful of the type of rev limiter used with an HEI and other electronic
ignitions since some styles can damage them.  If I want that capability, I'd
probably get an MSD 6A-L or equivalent. Right now I use an automatic
transmission and my brain to limit engine speeds.

The TH-400 is very reliable. The brain...................well......?

Bob Handren (AKA MajorDOMA)
OCA/OCFª 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 16:17:41 -0400 (EDT)
From: BobH592058@aol.com
Subject: Re: CD-ROM with Olds List Digest, Etc.

Bob Sanders wrote:

<<Robert A Sanders <rsanders@holly.colostate.edu>
Subject: Re: CD-ROM with Olds List Digest, Etc.

Bob,
What is the OCA and what is the FAQ and Digest.  I'm new to this web site and
am
desparately seeking info about my 55 Olds.  Thanks for your help.>>

Since I'm wading my way through the digest to get to this message, this may
have already been answered.

OCA = Olds Club of America, the largest Olds club in the US/Canada continent.
There is also a National Antique Olds Club (NAOC) which caters primarily to
pre 64 models. Some have jested that NAOC also stands for Not Another Olds
Cutlass since they prefer the bigger cars to those pesky, tiny, compact
upstarts. :-)  My personal impression is they also don't particularly like
modified Oldsmobiles, but they do have a modified class at their shows.
 Actually, in Atlanta, I wasn't sure they liked modifeds either but suspect
that was because of the tone of that particular show.

If you would like to contact either or both of the above clubs I believe the
information is easy to find at www.442.com.  Or ask me and I will dig it up.

FAQ = Frequently Asked Questions.  Dave Brown has been collecting the most
informative bits and pieces of the questions and answeres posted on the list.
The FAQ is the easiest place to find _loads_ of information.  Note that
members of the list are less likely to post another answer to a question
already beaten to death and in the FAQ, such as some of the more interseting
reasons cited why you should or should not run a thermostat.  The FAQ can
also be accessed at the Bryceman's page at www.442.com.

Digest = single files containing the numerous individual messages generated
daily on the Olds list.  Many people, including me, don't like to have our
mailboxes loaded with a zillion messages. So we subscribe to the digest which
usually generates only two files a day each one containing usually ~one half
of the messages for a 24 hour period. Instructions on how to subcribe and/or
change your current status are given in the message you received when you
signed on through Majordoma.

Hope this helps. Any more questions, fire away.

Bob Handren (AKA MajorDOMA)
OCA/OCFª 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 16:17:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: BobH592058@aol.com
Subject: 70 SX Heat Leaks

<<Date: Thu, 4 Sep 1997 22:49:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Heat Leaks

could this be electrical problem?, is wireing getting hot?, air running
across wires can be hot.  food for thought?, steven.  w30442cs@aol.com>>

Yeah, I tried to look at that too but there are no other indications it is
electrical.  I would expect something else to happen also, like a smell or
the battery doesn'g charge or ??  I mean this area gets very hot and just
turning the A/C on cools it off immediately. Turn off the A/C and it returns
in a few minutes.

I can't absolutely eliminate electrical but I don't think that's it.

Bob Handren (AKA MajorDOMA)
OCA/OCFª 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 16:20:53 -0400 (EDT)
From: BobH592058@aol.com
Subject: Re: Heat Leaks

MROTHE wrote:

<<Shootin from the hip here Bob.  On the far outer section of the
firewall, outboard the master cylinder, there is a plug, or grommet in
there.  Kinda hard to see unless you get right on back there.  Maybe
covered up with wiring.  If you have the hood lock package, follow the
cable back, that's where it goes.  If it's  gone or hanging out, heat
could be travelling right on in.  >>

Awright Mike, that's exactly what I'm looking for!  I didn't look there, now
I will. I did the work on that car a few years and was in a real hurry to get
it driveable because of a job relocation. I could have easily missed it.

<<If you have power brakes, what about
the little seal in the firewall?  What about your steering column seal?
Sorry Bob, I'm just fishin here, trying to conjure up a guess.  Is it
over by the light switch?  Sometimes these heat up like a banshee too
sometimes.  Again, I'm just shootin from the hip.>>

Kinda looked there, brake seal and steering column seal look OK.  It's not
the headlight switch, it's the metal part of the dash and a lot of heat
coming from somewhere.  I can actually rev the engine and momentarily incease
the air through the firewall  - or wherever it is coming from.

I was hoping someone would point out exactly what you just have. I'll take a
look tonight.

Bob Handren (AKA MajorDOMA)
OCA/OCFª 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 16:25:08 -0400 (EDT)
From: BobH592058@aol.com
Subject: 69 H/O Fire Frost paint-coming soon to a paint store near you!

Mike:

I don't own an H/O but would love to.  Your story is just great.  Exterior
paints are much different from stuff like engine and chassis paints since
there was little control of shading for these paints.

Neat detective work.

Bob Handren (AKA MajorDOMA)
OCA/OCFª 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 16:35:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: BobH592058@aol.com
Subject: Re: Carb Shop HEI conversion

Todd Morris wrote:

<<combinations of weights, springs, quantity and rate of advance make this
fairly complex.  (snip)>>


Actually it shouldn't be that hard Todd. While a distributor machine makes it
a piece of cake, one of the timing lights that give you timing advance values
at each step works just as well.  After all, your engine can do anything the
distributor machine can.

You and Dr. Bob posted similar approaches and they will work but can, in my
epxerience, get pretty confusing. For instance, some of the advance curve
kits recommend removing or replacing the sleeve over the pin in the
mechanical advance mechanism.  This makes using the original initial timing
value a potential problem.  A slightly different approach has worked for me.

The first place I would suggest starting is with the specs Olds established
for your engine in the first place. They can be found in a Motor manual
covering the year of your car.  Interestingly, my GM service manuals (for my
cars anyway) don't give these values but Motor's does. Using a timing light
you can set up the distrubutor advance characterisitics to match those of the
original points distributor. But those values are the "compromise" settings
given mass production tolerances, etc.

The other way is to match your distributor to your engines requirements.  I
usually don't pay much attention to initial advance at the beginning of this
exercise because what you're looking for is actually the total advance,
initial + mechanical + vacuum.

In-the-ballpark numbers are about 35 degress total initial and mechanical
advance and limitation of vacuum advance to about 10-15 degrees. Most of the
HEI's I've played with have 20+ degrees of vacuum advance.  Too much.

Disconnect the vacuum from the advance pot.  Using a timing light with
advance measurement capability, check and set the total initial + mechanical
advance.  You'd like the mechanical advance to be fully in by ~1500 to ~2500
rpm and be about ~35 degrees total (without vacuum).  Set the distributor at
this total advance position.  Depending on auto vs. manual, compression
ratio, cam, etc. you may need a little less.  I've found that an Olds engine
usually doesn't like initial + mechanical (centrifugal) of more than 36
degrees.

Since this early advance (compared to stock) usually means lighter springs
than stock, the inital timing value is many times much different from
published "tune-up" values and therefore pretty much irrelevent.  My neighbor
with a 66 GTO went bonkers trying to make the two agree (initial and
mechanical) for a Mallory unit he was installing until I pointed this out.
Took about 5 minutes after that.

To check the vacuum advance,  use a vacuum pump attached to the can and the
same timing light. Adjust the vacuum max setting accordingly.

That's what I do and my .02 worth.

The fellow OCF member who just installed an HEI in his 65 Starfire did find
some air cleaner interference.  His first thought was to massage the housing
since he has more than one.  He came up with a more elegant solution, well
sort of, ;-).  He used a trimmed tomato juice can to space the air cleaner up
about a 1".  Spacers and adapters are frequently included in aftermarket
one-fits-all chrome aircleaner.  But the 65 425 doesn't use a Q-Jet. It uses
a Rochester 4V with a smaller ring diameter. I thought his solution was
pretty clever and the basic approach applies to all carbs/air cleaner
housings.

So which can size fits a 2V diameter?  :-)

The only disadvantage of the HEI IMO is the lack of a rev limiter.  Be
careful of the type of rev limiter used with an HEI and other electronic
ignitions since some styles can damage them.  If I want that capability, I'd
probably get an MSD 6A-L or equivalent. Right now I use an automatic
transmission and my brain to limit engine speeds.

The TH-400 is very reliable. The brain...................well......?

Bob Handren (AKA MajorDOMA)
OCA/OCFª 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª835
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