
oldsmobile-digest       Friday, August 22 1997       Volume 01 : Number 813



Re: LOST!!
Re: Guage question
A/G Body rear ends?
Re: LOST!!
Re: Gauge question
Tires
Re: starter porblems
I don't feel well
events at Lansing
RE: starter problems
Re: starter porblems
1969 delta 88
RE: Painting my car, need some help
RE: Rear end
Re: LOST!!
Re: Painting my car, need some help
Re: Rear end
'66 Cutlass Convertible Trim Needed.
RE: Rear end
Re: Tires
Bryceman Page 
Re: LOST!!
Re: Rear end
RE: Rear end
Re: Tires
HELP
Olds 4 sale
Advice needed - Oldsmobile shop
Happy Birthday to Olds! 
Re: Cam recommendation
Re: LOST!!
Re: Cam recommendation
Back from Lansing!
Re: Rear end
Re: LOST!!
Re: engines
Re: Back from Lansing!
Re: Thanks for tire info
Re: New Member - 67 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
Re: Cam recommendation
Re: Back from Lansing!
Re: A/G Body rear ends?
Re: Rear end
test
Repo OAI hoods
IT WORKS!!!!!
Re: Dual Snorkel Air Cleaner
Re: engines
Re: 70' Frames
Re: Advice needed - Oldsmobile shop
Re: 84 Hurst Olds
Re: A/G Body rear ends?
Re: 84 Hurst Olds
Re: LOST!!
Re: '66 Cutlass Convertible Trim Needed.
Re: Disappointed with Members
more tire info
Re: Advice needed - Oldsmobile shop
Re: Advice needed - Oldsmobile shop
oldsmobile-digest V1 #812
Re: engines
Re: Disappointed with Members, EXCEPT 4 ME
Re: LOST!!
Re: LOST!!

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 10:45:51 -0500 (CDT)
From: Paul Brillhart <u17058@uicvm.uic.edu>
Subject: Re: LOST!!

At 01:49 AM 8/21/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Today, even with no speedometer, I came to the stop light next to a
>m*nte c*rl* SS, he LEFT ME off the line like i was a rock... he
>immediately gained about 3 car lengths of lead... at what i think was
>about 45 or 50mph i started to gain on him big time!... i came within 3
>feet of his back bumper and by then i pressumed i was going 60-70mph so
>i said oh well, everyone knows GM used recycled oldmobile metal (and who
>knows what else) to make ch*vys so i drove home with a grin...
>


  I had an encounter with an '84 SS three lights in a row.  He lost big
every time. Except for tires, his car was stock. Mine was a '67 442 with a
Turbo 400, '66 425(4bbl.), and a posi with 3:55 gears.  No engine mods and
70's on the rear.  I never had to test my traction.  What can you Cutlass do
in stock form?  Some mods may be in order.  




  Paul Brillhart 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 10:54:39 -0500 (CDT)
From: acg@dlogics.com
Subject: Re: Guage question

> > Sounds like you're overheating, plus your oil is probably thinning
> > in the excess heat and your pressure is going down. I'd start with
> 
> I think I am running with 20W50?  Does that sound right?  I know it is
> not 10W30.

Why so high? (It's not unheard of but with a good oil pump I've
been through a lot of scorching hot days with 10W-30 and no warning
light.) Maybe the oil pressure warning switch is going bad. If it's
wet on the outside, it's probably bad; in any event, it might be a
good idea to swap in a mechanical pressure gauge for a little while
just to confirm that everything is still all right. If the pressure
is down, it's time for a new pump.

> Well the strange this is that when the lights come on the guages
> indicate
> < 200 degrees on the thermo and around 30 for the oil.  One way I have
> found
> to have the indicators turn off is to rev the engine.  Wierd isn't it?

Kind of, yes. But the gauge sending units (are these factory gauges,
btw?) are not in the same location on the engine as the warning light
switches, I don't think, so they could be measuring two different
amounts. When you rev the engine your oil pressure goes up and you
send a rush of coolant through the engine, which usually lowers the
temperature where it exits the block (slow flow = hot output).

So... (1) get another oil pressure opinion, from a mechanical gauge
(2) doublecheck your cooling system for pressure and leaks

Say, your oil is in good shape, right? Up to FULL mark; clean;
recently changed; that sort of thing?

- -- Andy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 11:02:36 -0500
From: Tom & Jodie Martin <tmartin@genevaonline.com>
Subject: A/G Body rear ends?

A friend of mine just old me that the 67 and older A-Body cars ("intermediate"
cars) rear end will bolt in my 85 Cutlass with minor love taps to the upper
trailing arms.  He said it is 1/2 inch wider on both sides, but other than
that it is the 8.2 inch 10 bolt.  Much stronger than the 7.5in.  And no matter
what rear end I find it will have better gears than my 2.14's!  

Can anyone confirm this and if anyone has a 67 and older A-Body, can someone
please measure the trailing arms distance apart, the overall width, the width
of the lower trailing arms and lower trailing arms to the backing plates?  I
am not worried about brakes, I may go to rear disc anyway.

Thanks!
Thomas Martin 
85 Cutlass Supreme 307

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 12:24:31 +0000
From: "Rick" <richardc@equitrac.com>
Subject: Re: LOST!!

I noticed that you said you have a 67 with Posie was that stock or 
did you install that...If so What kind did you use I am looking to 
put posie in my 64.

Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 09:52:55 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@nfs.aisf.com>
Subject: Re: Gauge question

acg@dlogics.com wrote:
> 
> Why so high? (It's not unheard of but with a good oil pump I've
> been through a lot of scorching hot days with 10W-30 and no warning

Mechanic chose this.

> light.) Maybe the oil pressure warning switch is going bad. If it's
> wet on the outside, it's probably bad; in any event, it might be a

I can check.

> good idea to swap in a mechanical pressure gauge for a little while
> just to confirm that everything is still all right. If the pressure
> is down, it's time for a new pump.

I don't know how to do this.  Remember I am a mechanic-wanna-be.  I can
have my mechanic check on this.

> Kind of, yes. But the gauge sending units (are these factory gauges,
> btw?) are not in the same location on the engine as the warning light
> switches, I don't think, so they could be measuring two different
> amounts. When you rev the engine your oil pressure goes up and you
> send a rush of coolant through the engine, which usually lowers the
> temperature where it exits the block (slow flow = hot output).

These are factory gauges (see I spelled it right! :-) )

> So... (1) get another oil pressure opinion, from a mechanical gauge
> (2) doublecheck your cooling system for pressure and leaks

Ok will do.

> Say, your oil is in good shape, right? Up to FULL mark; clean;
> recently changed; that sort of thing?

Yup. Yup. Yup. Soon to be Yup.  I am do for my 3000 mile.

TIA

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 13:04:17 -0400 (EDT)
From: phouse@thor.feith.com (Peter L. House)
Subject: Tires

Hi Folks,. I keep hearing all this talk about tires, sizes,
traction, people using the B F G Radial T/A's. What about the
215 65R 15 BFG Comp T/A`s isn't this the size that come factory
with the G -Body olds 442. with 15x7 rims.  These tires are cool.
I have had the best perfomance, traction & wear out of these tires
opposed to the BFG radial T/A`s. I sure what the 245 60R 15 will
look like or if it will rub, I don't think that size is available
with the BFG Comp T/A....




Peter L. House
'87 Salon
phouse@feith.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 10:29:46 -0800
From: Dan Lacey <lacey@dsea.com>
Subject: Re: starter porblems

>DDortch@aol.com wrote:
>>
>> When I had my '69 cutlass 350 had same problem with a new starter-- I
>>scuffed
>> the battery terminals&connection w/ a wire brush and it went away...it's a
>> mystery why but it worked-- probably had nothing to do w/why the problem
>> stopped.
>> jeff
>
>No, actually we have all readily assumed that heat was the real problem
>because it is very common, especially with headers.  But your suggestion
>above is actually the very first thing that should have been checked.
>Good contacts and healthy wires are essential to just about everything
>in the starting and charging circuit.  Ashamed I didn't think of it....
>
>Dave

I was having the same problem with my '65 98. I had a garage test the
battery and they said it was fine (of course I knew it wasn't holding a
charge).

Anyway, I bought jumbo battery cables (2 gauge) and an Optima battery. I
was going to do this anyway, but thought the real fix would involve a
remote solenoid and heat shield (even tho I do not have headers). I also
found some marginal wire splicing to the starter solenoid.

After just doing the above, my problems went away.

BTW - The Optima is expensive but can save you money in the long run,
especially if you leave a car for a long time in between starts (show car
or restoring).


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 13:24:24 -0400
From: lawrencr@kostabi.gdls.com (Robert Lawrence)
Subject: I don't feel well

... so I guess I'll take the rest of the day off
and drive up to Lansing.

- --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Robert Lawrence   | 1970 Oldsmobile 98 Convertible               .^.
lawrencr@gdls.com |  _________,~--,___________\____________     /9|8\
(810) 825-5129    |  |                |~    |        ___   |    \}|{/
Sterling Hts., MI |  =------(-o-)-------------------( o )--=      v

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 13:02:51 -0700
From: larry polesnak <bullets@sgi.net>
Subject: events at Lansing

Hi, does anyone have the events and times for everything that is going
on in Lansing.. I might have a chance to drive up from Pittsburgh,Pa...
                                           Thanks Larry Polesnak

        6    2    S    T    A    R    F    I   R   E
1962 Starfire
1986 Regency Brougham
1989 Plymouth Van

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 10:31:24 -0800
From: Dan Lacey <lacey@dsea.com>
Subject: RE: starter problems

>If you
>don't want to get stuck somewhere then your choices are 1. a new starter
>(although the same will happen to it eventually), 2. wrap the exhaust
>pipe + heat shield starter, 3. install a new solenoid (there cheap) if
>the starter is fine. 4. Live with the problem until the starter
>completely fails in which case goto number 1.
>
>Fernando Proietto
>Systems Analyst - Informatics
>

Or have the headers ceramic coated inside and outside... Expensive but
helps with the heat problem as well as making the headers last longer...


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 10:27:46 -0700
From: Jar Lyons <jarl@atrieva.com>
Subject: Re: starter porblems

I believe it's an inherent problem with the Olds engines that
have dual exhaust.  Mine acts just the same way.

I think I've heard reference to after market heat shields
that help, but I don't know much about them.


- -- 
Have you backed up your data today?
Atrieva Internet Backup Service http://www.atrieva.com

Jar Lyons
jarl@atrieva.com 
Atrieva Corporation  (www.atrieva.com)
600 University Street, Suite 911 
Seattle, WA  98101
Voice: (206) 749-2914,  
Fax:   (206) 382-6615
- ------------------------------------------------------------------
                1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass Convertible
                       455 Rocket Powered
                'How fast do you want to go today?'
- ------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 13:43:03 -0400
From: Darryl Wright <darryl@altair.com>
Subject: 1969 delta 88

Hello- I need to know how much a 1969 delta 88 Royal is worth.
It has a 2bbl 455 with a 400 trans. and A/C. It has a few dent that
need to be fixed but no rust. only 53,000 miles. Any help would be 
appreciated. thanks

Darryl Wright
70 olds

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 13:47:29 -0400
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: Painting my car, need some help

Someone was requesting an URL for painting info. While I found the URL
for Sikkens paint if your still interested:

http://www.akzonobel.com/coat_na.htm

Hope it helps.

Fernando Proietto
Systems Analyst - Informatics

Environment Canada
Ontario Region - Monitoring & Systems Branch
4905 Dufferin St. 
Downsview, Ontario
M3H 5T4

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 14:03:35 -0400
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: Rear end

Aaron,
	don't want to put a damper on your find but you must be carefull
of the equipment you want to use with your existing hardware. I'm not
100% positive but I know this is the case for my '72 442 rear end
carrier. In my diff. I have 2.73 gears which means that my housing can
hold a max gear size of about, I think 3.08, no larger. If I want to go
larger I have to change the carrier to a 3 series carrier.  Currently
you have a 2.14 gear set which would conclude that your diff. is a 2
series carrier. If that is the case you may not be able to use that 3.73
which is a quite high 3 series gear ring with your carrier as there is
not enough room to house it. You should find out if that's the case
before you go ahead with the swap. You might be surprised and in the end
be paying out much $$ you didn't intend on spending.

Fernando Proietto
Systems Analyst - Informatics

Environment Canada
Ontario Region - Monitoring & Systems Branch
4905 Dufferin St. 
Downsview, Ontario
M3H 5T4

> ----------
> From: 	Aaron S Janke[SMTP:asjanke@mtu.edu]
> Sent: 	Thursday, August 21, 1997 10:22 AM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Rear end
> 
> Hello all
> 
> Hoping to get a little information or at least be directed in the
> right
> direction to find some information on rear end swaps.  I just picked
> up a
> set of 3.73 guts out of a 85 s-10 blazer.  I plan on using them in my
> 84
> Cutlass Calais (I think I am currently running 2.53 or something like
> that)
> and am looking for any pointers on going through with this before I
> dive in
> and maybe really mess something up good.  I realize that it would
> probably
> be to my advantage to just go find another rear end but being that I
> am
> just a poor college student I really don't have the money to go out
> and
> spend a fortune on rear end parts.
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 13:11:48 -0500 (CDT)
From: Paul Brillhart <u17058@uicvm.uic.edu>
Subject: Re: LOST!!

At 12:24 PM 8/21/97 +0000, you wrote:
>I noticed that you said you have a 67 with Posie was that stock or
>did you install that...If so What kind did you use I am looking to
>put posie in my 64.
>
>Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>
>


  Rick,


  I stand corrected.  The 3:55 posi was out of a '66 f85.  It now resides in
my '65 442 and except for the brake line connections at the junction being
different sizes(female-male conversion fixed that) the swap was smooth as a
glove.  The gear was an option in the f85 as it was a 330 with a three on
the tree.  It's a nice general purpose gear.  If I were b@lls out going
heavy duty with a 455 and 292H ect.. I'd opt for a 3:90-4:11(not bad on the
highway, but certainly the upper end).  As it is, it goes well with the
mildly built 400 and Muncie wide ratio in there now.  Also, the '65 had flat
bottomed coil springs while the '67's were cone shaped.  Just unbolt them
and transfer coils.  One other thing, as I had both of these axles out
before, the swap was smooth.  If I had bushings with lots of miles, then the
control arm bolts would have been fused to the bushing collars.   Be sure
your wheel cylinder nuts will loosen up too.  I had to bleed one at the
line.  Later.





   Paul 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 11:14:23 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@nfs.aisf.com>
Subject: Re: Painting my car, need some help

Proietto, Fernando [Ontario] wrote:
> 
> Someone was requesting an URL for painting info. While I found the URL
> for Sikkens paint if your still interested:
> 
> http://www.akzonobel.com/coat_na.htm
> 
> Hope it helps.

It was I, Chris Sparks, who asked.  Thanks....

Chris

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 11:17:56 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@nfs.aisf.com>
Subject: Re: Rear end

Proietto, Fernando [Ontario] wrote:
> 
> carrier. In my diff. I have 2.73 gears which means that my housing can
> hold a max gear size of about, I think 3.08, no larger. If I want to go
> larger I have to change the carrier to a 3 series carrier.

Now you raised an interesting question in my mind.  If the carriers can
accomodate a range of gear ratios then I would be easy to determine
approximately
what range of gears is possible for the carrier that is currently on a
car just by measuring the carrier.  Right?  Since I can't find what gear
ratio
I have, measuring the carrier would be far easier than scraping away at
the axle.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 12:39:57 -0600
From: David Jenkins <David@vinca.com>
Subject: '66 Cutlass Convertible Trim Needed.

To all,

Thanks for your help on the blue convertible top for my '66.  I have one more
pressing question for the restoration of the car. - - Trim for the exterior
sides and wheel wells.  Again, this is not a 442 but rather a Cutlass
convertible.  Anyone know of good sources or possible sources?

Thanks again for your input.
Dave Jenkins
david@vinca.com
Orem, Utah
Veritable Car/Truck Menagery - My wife is patient
'59 Apache - Son #1 Truck
'66 Olds Cutlass Convert - My baby and in progress
'66 Barracuda - Daily driver
'67 Corvette Convert - In progress
'68 Cougar XR7 - Son #2 car not finished
'69 Camaro RS/SS - Finished
'69 Coronet 500 - Just needs paint and tune up
'73 Camaro RS/Z28 - Son #3 car completed
 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 14:59:09 -0400
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: Rear end

Actually by measuring the diff. you can only at best figure out the
range of gear sets. If you want to know your actual or close to gear
ratio, then just spin the axle and count the number of spins on the
tire. or vise-versa. Chris what car are you referring to?

Fernando Proietto
Systems Analyst - Informatics

Environment Canada
Ontario Region - Monitoring & Systems Branch
4905 Dufferin St. 
Downsview, Ontario
M3H 5T4

> ----------
> From: 	Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)[SMTP:sparks@nfs.aisf.com]
> Sent: 	Thursday, August 21, 1997 2:17 PM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Re: Rear end
> 
> Proietto, Fernando [Ontario] wrote:
> > 
> > carrier. In my diff. I have 2.73 gears which means that my housing
> can
> > hold a max gear size of about, I think 3.08, no larger. If I want to
> go
> > larger I have to change the carrier to a 3 series carrier.
> 
> Now you raised an interesting question in my mind.  If the carriers
> can
> accomodate a range of gear ratios then I would be easy to determine
> approximately
> what range of gears is possible for the carrier that is currently on a
> car just by measuring the carrier.  Right?  Since I can't find what
> gear
> ratio
> I have, measuring the carrier would be far easier than scraping away
> at
> the axle.
> 
> Chris Sparks
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 15:04:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Tires

In a message dated 97-08-21 13:08:17 EDT, you write:

<< Hi Folks,. I keep hearing all this talk about tires, sizes,
 traction, people using the B F G Radial T/A's. What about the
 215 65R 15 BFG Comp T/A`s isn't this the size that come factory
 with the G -Body olds 442. with 15x7 rims.  These tires are cool.
 I have had the best perfomance, traction & wear out of these tires
 opposed to the BFG radial T/A`s. I sure what the 245 60R 15 will
 look like or if it will rub, I don't think that size is available
 with the BFG Comp T/A....
 
 Peter L. House
 ' >>

I dont know if BFG has a 245-60R-15 available either, but I do know
that the 255-60R-15 is available ond fits well in my G Body, although
its a Bu*ck T, there shouldn't be a difference.....TIM

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 15:02:47 +0000
From: "Rick" <richardc@equitrac.com>
Subject: Bryceman Page 

Do you know if you just send Bryceman I picture and and email he will 
put it on the Owner Registry.I sent him a nice looking picture of my 
442 at the Olds Day Car Show at New England Drag Way and a little 
description of the car..So I was curious if that is all it took.Got 
some great pics from the car show and smokin em up..Created them into 
screen saver's

Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 15:02:48 +0000
From: "Rick" <richardc@equitrac.com>
Subject: Re: LOST!!

Thanks for the advice now I know what to look for.

Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 12:42:43 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@nfs.aisf.com>
Subject: Re: Rear end

Proietto, Fernando [Ontario] wrote:
> 
> Actually by measuring the diff. you can only at best figure out the
> range of gear sets. If you want to know your actual or close to gear
> ratio, then just spin the axle and count the number of spins on the
> tire. or vise-versa. Chris what car are you referring to?

My 68 4-4-2.

Chris

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 15:57:11 -0400
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: Rear end

If the rear is original you can find out possibly what gear it has just
through documentation. I don't have much on '69 codes but Greg B. does
and I'm sure others with '69's do also. The documentation should tell
you what you have if not at least it could be very close.

Fernando Proietto
Systems Analyst - Informatics

Environment Canada
Ontario Region - Monitoring & Systems Branch
4905 Dufferin St. 
Downsview, Ontario
M3H 5T4

> ----------
> From: 	Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)[SMTP:sparks@nfs.aisf.com]
> Sent: 	Thursday, August 21, 1997 3:42 PM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Re: Rear end
> 
> Proietto, Fernando [Ontario] wrote:
> > 
> > Actually by measuring the diff. you can only at best figure out the
> > range of gear sets. If you want to know your actual or close to gear
> > ratio, then just spin the axle and count the number of spins on the
> > tire. or vise-versa. Chris what car are you referring to?
> 
> My 68 4-4-2.
> 
> Chris
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 13:01:03 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: Tires

I have 235-60 R15's on my '84 H/O.  They fit and look just fine.  Same
height as the 215/65's so my speedo is still correct, but just a tad
wider.  No rubbing, although it's pretty close to the frame in back, and
very close in front when you turn hard.  I've heard you can fit bigger in
the back, like up to 275/50's, but I don't want to since I'd lose the
capability to rotate the tires (plus what would I do for a spare?).

Tom Lentz
tlentz@ior.com

Cnvrtbl442@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 97-08-21 13:08:17 EDT, you write:
>
> << Hi Folks,. I keep hearing all this talk about tires, sizes,
>  traction, people using the B F G Radial T/A's. What about the
>  215 65R 15 BFG Comp T/A`s isn't this the size that come factory
>  with the G -Body olds 442. with 15x7 rims.  These tires are cool.
>  I have had the best perfomance, traction & wear out of these tires
>  opposed to the BFG radial T/A`s. I sure what the 245 60R 15 will
>  look like or if it will rub, I don't think that size is available
>  with the BFG Comp T/A....
>
>  Peter L. House
>  ' >>
>
> I dont know if BFG has a 245-60R-15 available either, but I do know
> that the 255-60R-15 is available ond fits well in my G Body, although
> its a Bu*ck T, there shouldn't be a difference.....TIM

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 16:12:00 -0400
From: Ric Wiggins <"ric@cococo.net"@cococo.net>
Subject: HELP

LOOKING FOR 1956 OLDS TAIL LIGHTS

PRO=CLASSICS

RIC WIGGINS                   THANK YOU

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 16:21:42 -0400
From: taxlady@sbccom.com (Sieglinde Kuzava)
Subject: Olds 4 sale

Our local Bulletin Board has the following listed under "Antique cars &
trucks":  56 Olds Holiday, Rocket 88 motor, $1,500 obo.  As I am preggo and
likely to deliver any day now, here is the # to call that was in the ad as
well:  (304) 363-6064.

This is in Fairmont, WV which is about 2 hrs. north of Charleston, WV; 1 hr
30 min south of Pittsburgh, PA.

Sieglinde
Granville, WV

78 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 15:52:57 -0700
From: Darrin Johnson <xdarrinj@ti.com>
Subject: Advice needed - Oldsmobile shop

I have recently discovered a shop in my area that specializes in Oldsmobiles,
but unfortunately I can't recommend them.  I was driving through Lewisville,
Texas and happened to notice a shop with a large number of 1968 - 1972
Oldsmobiles (mostly convertibles).  I stopped in to look around and ask if he
sold parts.  I was looking for a core support, control arms, both fenders, and
some other small parts for my 72 Cutlass Convertible.  He said that he had all
the parts that I was looking for (but not at his shop) and we agreed on a
price.  Unfortunately, one of the fenders that I received is not usable (at
least by me) because of rust.  I contacted the shop the following day, and an
agreement (verbal agreement) was reached to replace the unusable fender.  This
was almost three months ago and I still don’t have a replacement fender.  I
haven’t given up yet, but I need some advice on how to get this shop to comply
with the agreement to replace the fender.

If I can’t get the replacement fender in the next few weeks, I guess that I
will have 2 fenders for sale.  (LH fender fairly straight but rusted through on
lower front - RH not as straight and rusted through on lower rear).

Darrin Johnson (djohnsn@ibm.net or xdarrinj@ti.com)
Wylie, TX

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 17:05:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: PMRjr@aol.com
Subject: Happy Birthday to Olds! 

For Everyone, I would like to say to all of Oldsmobile Owners:

Happy Birthday to Olds!  

proud owners of 1967 Olds Cutlass Supreme Sport Coupe and 1966 Toronado

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Aug 1997 16:29:33 -0700
From: David McDougall <dmcdou@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Cam recommendation

Ray Moriarty wrote:
> 
> At 05:14 PM 8/11/97 -0700, you wrote:
> >On Mr. Gasket's desktop dyno,
> >the 350 with pocket ported heads, 9:1 compression, small tube headers
> >(open, like the other companies run on their Dynos), you get 352 HP at
> >5500 RPM and almost 400 ft/lbs of torque from 2500 - 4500.
> 
> Alright, I give. What is pocket porting?
> 
> TIA
> Ray
> Alexandria, VA
It's a mild port job that helps the heads breath better without
sacrificing driveability.  Full porting and race porting are designed to
completely re-engineer your combustion characteristics and power band. 
Pocket porting is more or less an improvement over stock, although it
does alter the power band as much as 800 RPMs.  If you made power from
1000-4500 before, you might notice that your power range is 1500-5000
RPMs after a pocket port, but torque and horsepower are usually up
across the board.

Dave
Woodbridge, VA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 18:24:16 -0400
From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Subject: Re: LOST!!

Adam wrote:
> 
> Today, even with no speedometer, I came to the stop light next to a
> m*nte c*rl* SS, he LEFT ME off the line like i was a rock...

Thats because he has 3.73 gears from the factory. 

 he
> immediately gained about 3 car lengths of lead... at what i think was
> about 45 or 50mph i started to gain on him big time!... i came within 3
> feet of his back bumper and by then i pressumed i was going 60-70mph so
> i said oh well, everyone knows GM used recycled oldmobile metal (and who
> knows what else) to make ch*vys so i drove home with a grin...

He must have had a tired 305 or most likely he backed off. Stock for
stock the 305 H.O. will beat the 307 everytime, given competent drivers. 

- -- 

********
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio
Quality Engineer - TRW Automotive Group - Valve Division
1995 DCM Impala SS.......14.78@95.1 stock and weighs 4500lbs!
1980 Olds 4-4-2 W-30.....show car..one of 346 produced
1975 Hurst/Olds W-25.....restoration project 
1985 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4X4......work truck

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 17:26:49 -0500 (CDT)
From: Paul Brillhart <u17058@uicvm.uic.edu>
Subject: Re: Cam recommendation

At 04:29 PM 8/12/97 -0700, you wrote:
>Ray Moriarty wrote:
>>
>> At 05:14 PM 8/11/97 -0700, you wrote:
>> >On Mr. Gasket's desktop dyno,
>> >the 350 with pocket ported heads, 9:1 compression, small tube headers
>> >(open, like the other companies run on their Dynos), you get 352 HP at
>> >5500 RPM and almost 400 ft/lbs of torque from 2500 - 4500.
>>
>> Alright, I give. What is pocket porting?
>>
>> TIA
>> Ray
>> Alexandria, VA
>It's a mild port job that helps the heads breath better without
>sacrificing driveability.  Full porting and race porting are designed to
>completely re-engineer your combustion characteristics and power band.
>Pocket porting is more or less an improvement over stock, although it
>does alter the power band as much as 800 RPMs.  If you made power from
>1000-4500 before, you might notice that your power range is 1500-5000
>RPMs after a pocket port, but torque and horsepower are usually up
>across the board.
>
>Dave
>Woodbridge, VA
>


   I thought it was radiusing and blending in the "pockets" of the exhaust
and intake valves.  The portion of the runner just before the intake enters
as well as just after the exhaust exits the cylinder.  You know, directly
behind the valves.  



  Paul

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 18:29:20 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Back from Lansing!

Hey gang,

	All I can say is....WOW! Many cars, particularly 68-72, some 73-up.
Bought a cam from Chris Witt for $20!!! Helluva time trying to find our
way around. Big cities suck. E-mail me for more specifics.
- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoft© Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 18:29:02 -0400
From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Subject: Re: Rear end

Aaron S Janke wrote:
> 
> Hello all
> 
> Hoping to get a little information or at least be directed in the right
> direction to find some information on rear end swaps.  I just picked up a
> set of 3.73 guts out of a 85 s-10 blazer.  I plan on using them in my 84

Sure they aren't 4.11 gears?  My 85 Blazer 4x4 has option code H04 which
is a 4.11 limited slip rear. 
- -- 

********
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio
Quality Engineer - TRW Automotive Group - Valve Division
1995 DCM Impala SS.....my dream car come true
1980 Olds 4-4-2 W-30.....show car..one of 346 produced
1975 Hurst/Olds W-25.....restoration project 
1985 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4X4......work truck

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 18:33:40 -0400
From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Subject: Re: LOST!!

Tom Lentz wrote:

> 
> Also, the MC SS's are way too easy to find aftermarket parts for.  I mean,
> you can buy a performance rebuilt Ch*vy 350 for about $1000 to replace the
> 305.

Engines yes but certain body parts are as hard or harder to find than
the 442's. Try to find a rear window for an 86-87 Monte SS Aerocoupe.
They have to be custom ordered at over $1200. Tom have you ever taken
your H/O to the track? Curious as I have never seen what they run but I
assume as fast as the 442's. Take care. 

- -- 

********
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio
Quality Engineer - TRW Automotive Group - Valve Division
1995 DCM Impala SS.....14.78 @ 95.1 stock and weighs 4500 lbs!
1980 Olds 4-4-2 W-30.....show car..one of 346 produced
1975 Hurst/Olds W-25.....restoration project 
1985 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4X4......work truck

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 18:42:19 -0400
From: jeff antonucci <antonj@erols.com>
Subject: Re: engines

350 Oldsmobiles?

Jeff Antonucci

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 18:47:58 -0400
From: jeff antonucci <antonj@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Back from Lansing!

Matt,

I was planning on stopping by Lansing on Saturday, I want to see the 
cars (take Pictures) and go to the swap meet.  Amy advice / directions 
would help.
Thanks, jeff.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 19:09:04 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Thanks for tire info

Next, if you go with
> the P245/60R14 you WILL get tire rubbing in the front tires. Had a
> friend with those sizes and he kept complaining of how it rubbed while
> turning or over bumps while turning. Mind you I have never had this size
> before so I'm conveying only what I have heard while talking to others
> who have had them. 

I have P245/60R14s on my '71 and have NO wheel rubbing.  A friend of
mine had them on his '72 with no problem either. 
- -- 
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 19:18:13 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: New Member - 67 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

> > be seen in it!).  I'm back in action w/a '71 350 4door.  BTW, are all 4 doors
> > "sedans" and all  2 doors like my '69 called "coups"?  I'm not up to speed on
> 						      
> 2 doors, no center post => hardtop coupe	     HOLIDAY COUPE (or Toronado) 
> 2 doors, center post    => sports coupe	     CORRECT      
> 4 doors, no center post => hardtop sedan	     HOLIDAY SEDAN 
> 4 doors, center post    => ? I don't know here.    TOWN SEDAN    
> 						      
> Chris Sparks

- -- 
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Aug 1997 18:24:41 -0700
From: David McDougall <dmcdou@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Cam recommendation

Paul Brillhart wrote:
> 
> At 04:29 PM 8/12/97 -0700, you wrote:
> >Ray Moriarty wrote:
> >>
> >> At 05:14 PM 8/11/97 -0700, you wrote:
> >> >On Mr. Gasket's desktop dyno,
> >> >the 350 with pocket ported heads, 9:1 compression, small tube headers
> >> >(open, like the other companies run on their Dynos), you get 352 HP at
> >> >5500 RPM and almost 400 ft/lbs of torque from 2500 - 4500.
> >>
> >> Alright, I give. What is pocket porting?
> >>
> >> TIA
> >> Ray
> >> Alexandria, VA
> >It's a mild port job that helps the heads breath better without
> >sacrificing driveability.  Full porting and race porting are designed to
> >completely re-engineer your combustion characteristics and power band.
> >Pocket porting is more or less an improvement over stock, although it
> >does alter the power band as much as 800 RPMs.  If you made power from
> >1000-4500 before, you might notice that your power range is 1500-5000
> >RPMs after a pocket port, but torque and horsepower are usually up
> >across the board.
> >
> >Dave
> >Woodbridge, VA
> >
> 
>    I thought it was radiusing and blending in the "pockets" of the exhaust
> and intake valves.  The portion of the runner just before the intake enters
> as well as just after the exhaust exits the cylinder.  You know, directly
> behind the valves.
> 
>   Paul

Exactly, but limited to that area whereas a more complete porting would
include intake and exhaust runners and possibly some chamber work as
well.  The purpose and performance characteristics are as stated.

Thanx for that more complete explanation.... Dave

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 19:46:52 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Back from Lansing!

jeff antonucci wrote:
> 
> Matt,
> 
> I was planning on stopping by Lansing on Saturday, I want to see the
> cars (take Pictures) and go to the swap meet.  Amy advice / directions
> would help.
> Thanks, jeff.

Well, take the Shiawassee exit if you're coming from 127. We tried the
Michigan Ave exit but it was blocked off for the parade, and drove
around Lansing for at least 30 min. But, we finally ended up somewhere
near the swap meet. Lotsa good stuff there. Many bumpers, taillights,
wheels, triple-carb intakes, trim parts, interior parts. If you got a
map from Oldsmobile, it sucks. Many streets are marked wrong. Geez,
their own city and they don't know where the streets are!!!

- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoft© Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 17:50:51 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: A/G Body rear ends?

Tom & Jodie Martin wrote:
> 
> A friend of mine just old me that the 67 and older A-Body cars ("intermediate"
> cars) rear end will bolt in my 85 Cutlass with minor love taps to the upper
> trailing arms.  He said it is 1/2 inch wider on both sides, but other than
> that it is the 8.2 inch 10 bolt.  Much stronger than the 7.5in.  And no matter
> what rear end I find it will have better gears than my 2.14's!
> 
> Can anyone confirm this and if anyone has a 67 and older A-Body, can someone
> please measure the trailing arms distance apart, the overall width, the width
> of the lower trailing arms and lower trailing arms to the backing plates?  I
> am not worried about brakes, I may go to rear disc anyway.
> 
> Thanks!
> Thomas Martin
> 85 Cutlass Supreme 307

Don't know about the pre-68's, but the 68-72 will bolt up like that. 
Summit sells a control arm set that will ~properly~ adapt them.  Didn't
the pre-68's have a different setup though?

- -- 
    
             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
             Box 524               | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Sidney, Montana 59270 | http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
	     "TRBO LVR" (Maybe???:)| '83 Turbo Regal
               	     Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 17:55:20 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Rear end

Aaron S Janke wrote:
> 
> Hello all
> 
> Hoping to get a little information or at least be directed in the right
> direction to find some information on rear end swaps.  I just picked up a
> set of 3.73 guts out of a 85 s-10 blazer.  I plan on using them in my 84
> Cutlass Calais (I think I am currently running 2.53 or something like that)
> and am looking for any pointers on going through with this before I dive in
> and maybe really mess something up good.  I realize that it would probably
> be to my advantage to just go find another rear end but being that I am
> just a poor college student I really don't have the money to go out and
> spend a fortune on rear end parts.
> 
> Also these gears that I just got have some kind of a limited slip system
> but it is not like one I have ever seen before.  It didn't have a tag on
> the cover but the carrier is housing some interesting parts that consist of
> a dog type of system.  Would this be better than the cone type limited
> slips.  I am sorry I don't now the terminology for all of these parts.
> hopefully all that wasn't to confusing.
> 
> Any tips or tricks that would lead me away from disaster would be a great help
> 

Were the S10's coil spring rears?  I remember something about them
having similar frames to the A/G bodies.  I haven't looked under one for
years, but would a hub to hub swap work at all?  I just can't recall for
sure.  It'd be easier than swapping the non-compatible guts, anyway...
- -- 
    
             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
             Box 524               | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Sidney, Montana 59270 | http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
	     "TRBO LVR" (Maybe???:)| '83 Turbo Regal
               	     Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 20:11:32 -0400
From: jim helle <helle@theonramp.net>
Subject: test

test, do not respond

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 17:55:46 -0700
From: Brad Bowles <wolds@napanet.net>
Subject: Repo OAI hoods

I am looking for anyone who has, or has experience with, the repoduction
OAI hoods for a 70 442.
Please e-mail me at bodog@napanet.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 19:56:34 -0500
From: Adam <xadirc@megsinet.net>
Subject: IT WORKS!!!!!

The guages work!!!  Everything was perfect!!!!!!!!!!!
The tach is great, everything works except the temp guage because the
stupid lady at the parts store gave me a replacement switch even tho i
specified a sender.. Even the Vacum guage works perfect.  I am going to
compile details on how i did this... Its not nearly as hard as i made it
seem.  Thank you ALL, I couldnt have done this without you guys.

Adam Andersen

85 Cutlass Supreme Brogham 307   WITH A RALLYE GUAGE PACKAGE!!!
- -- 
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<<<END MESSAGE>>><<<DIGITAL ID FOLLOWS>>>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 22:21:51 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Dual Snorkel Air Cleaner

The Sugarmans wrote:
> 
> On Wed, 20 Aug 1997, Mike Rothe wrote:
> 
> >
> > What you have here, is possibly a semi-rare piece.  Although not as
> > desireable as the OAI, it most likely came off a one-year only, 71 442.
> 
> My son has one on his '69 442.  It is red - appears to be original color -
> and he bought a new sticker for it - I think from Yr1.
> 
> How $emi-rare i$ it?  ;-)
> 
If it came from a '71, it wasn't red from the factory.  All 71's were
black.  Semi-rare as in $$ value.  I dunno.  Maybe 100-150 depending on
the shape.  Can't be much more than that I would imagine, because you
can get OAI's for around 350-500.  The 71 air cleaners used the standard
lid that came with the "442" lid decal.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 22:44:21 -0400 (EDT)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: engines

In a message dated 97-08-21 18:50:07 EDT, you write:

<<    Just a note to all Oldsmobile lovers. GM is selling off remanufactured
 350s at a resonable price. They have two versions with A.I.R. and without
 A.I.R the price is the same. The price at the dealership I work at is
 $1619.90 plus TAX. the come with a 3 50,000 mile warranty. It wouldn't be a
 #s matching engine but it could keep the car on the rode will your
rebuilding
 the original. 
  >>
what configurations are available with these motors? Different Compression
Ratios? Cams? etc.  How complete are they. long blocks? intakes? etc..
any more info would be greatly appreciated....TIM

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 23:00:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: Re: 70' Frames

> Hello- I have a 1970 cutlass convertible. The front frame rails are 
> rusted out right at the swaybar attachment points. I was wondering if
> weilding on new peices far-fetched(It is not in a stuctural part of the
> frame well past the suspension points)? Full frame replacement could 

   Yes, it can be done.  As long as the patch metal you use is as thick or
thicker than the original frame you should be fine.  After I repaired my
'71 convertible frame (body mounts were resting on air), that seems
minor...

> Do convertibles have differant frames than hard tops? 

  Yes, but not in that spot.  The sections which run from under the
driver's foot to the start of the rear suspension are boxed closed, not
open like a hard top.

> This by the way is the only rust on the car.

  Somehow I find this hard to belive.  Once it's somewhere it's usually
everywhere - check UNDER the body mounts - mine looked fine until I lifted
the body.

> Darryl
> 70' olds
> 94' olds
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 22:03:02 -0500
From: "jones" <jones@morgan.net>
Subject: Re: Advice needed - Oldsmobile shop

- ----------
> From: Darrin Johnson <xdarrinj@ti.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Advice needed - Oldsmobile shop
> Date: Thursday, August 21, 1997 5:52 PM
> 
> I have recently discovered a shop in my area that specializes in
Oldsmobiles,
> but unfortunately I can't recommend them.  I was driving through
Lewisville,
> Texas and happened to notice a shop with a large number of 1968 - 1972
> Oldsmobiles (mostly convertibles).  I stopped in to look around and ask
if he
> sold parts.  I was looking for a core support, control arms, both
fenders, and
> some other small parts for my 72 Cutlass Convertible.  He said that he
had all
> the parts that I was looking for (but not at his shop) and we agreed on a
> price.  Unfortunately, one of the fenders that I received is not usable
(at
> least by me) because of rust.  I contacted the shop the following day,
and an
> agreement (verbal agreement) was reached to replace the unusable fender. 
This
> was almost three months ago and I still don’t have a replacement fender. 
I
> haven’t given up yet, but I need some advice on how to get this shop to
comply
> with the agreement to replace the fender.
> 
> If I can’t get the replacement fender in the next few weeks, I guess that
I
> will have 2 fenders for sale.  (LH fender fairly straight but rusted
through on
> lower front - RH not as straight and rusted through on lower rear).
> 
> Darrin Johnson (djohnsn@ibm.net or xdarrinj@ti.com)
> Wylie, TX
> 
I've heard several stories about that guy...... none of them good. Post his
name so everyone will be warned. 
Walter 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 22:58:10 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 84 Hurst Olds

Greg wrote:
> 
> Looking for the value of a 84 Hurst Olds, 2dr, coupe, t-tops.
> Silver/Black.
> 
Well, all 84 H/O's were 2 dr. coupes, unless modified by someone other
than the factory.  Guestimate range is between 3500 and 10K depending on
condition.  Average, I'd say around 6-7 K.  It really does depend on
condition, as these silver laquer cars faded really bad, and the spoiler
tips were always getting broken off.

Of course, it always depends on how bad the seller wants to sell it, and
the buyer wants to pay.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 23:12:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: A/G Body rear ends?

In a message dated 97-08-21 18:45:37 EDT, Tom writes:

<< 
 A friend of mine just old me that the 67 and older A-Body cars
("intermediate"
 cars) rear end will bolt in my 85 Cutlass with minor love taps to the upper
 trailing arms.  He said it is 1/2 inch wider on both sides, but other than
 that it is the 8.2 inch 10 bolt.  Much stronger than the 7.5in.  And no
matter
 what rear end I find it will have better gears than my 2.14's!  
  >>

Hey Tom, just incase.....There are some G Body cars that had 8.5" Posi
rears with 3.42 and 3.73 ratios....Buick T Types andGrand nationals(86-7)
 and some 85s had the 8.5 and some or all had aluminum drums. Also 
Ive been told that some 442's and Monte SS's from the 80's had the 8.5's
also.  The 3.42 is an excellent rear end for a middle 30 some hundred 
pound car.  I think all the Buicks were 3.42's stock and the Olds and Montes
had both available and maybe even other ratios.....They would all be a 
super easy drop in....TIM

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 23:21:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: 84 Hurst Olds

In a message dated 97-08-21 23:11:54 EDT, you write:

<< Greg wrote:
 > 
 > Looking for the value of a 84 Hurst Olds, 2dr, coupe, t-tops.
 > Silver/Black.
  >>
Who  is this?? Greg who....email me and Ill send you some info 
I found......TIM

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 23:47:54 -0400
From: "Steve B." <steveb@thecia.net>
Subject: Re: LOST!!

Tom Lentz wrote:
> 
> Adam wrote:
> 
> > Today, even with no speedometer, I came to the stop light next to a
> > m*nte c*rl* SS, he LEFT ME off the line like i was a rock... he
> 
> Probably due to the MC's SS's 3.73:1 rear gears.  Combined with the stock
> 2400rpm stall converter and the low first gear in the 200-4R, it makes for
> one heck of a launch off the line.  I know, I regularly blow away 5.slow's
> with my '84 H/O (just off the line, they eventually would catch up but by
> that time I'm doing at least the speed limit so I ease off).
>

Wow, now this has me intrigued, I have only raced a couple of MC SS and
a late model 442 at the dragway and the results were much different. My
5.slow ;-) runs mid to late 14's (best to date is a 14.6 @ 95.5 with
street tires) Neither of the Monte's got into the 15's and the 86 or 87
442(not sure which year it was) ran a 15.8!!! Tom you must be either a
REALLY good driver or the Hurst Olds was much quicker than it's
counterparts. Either way I would like to know what it runs in the
quarter, I don't recall ever seeing one at my local track. The only
Hurst Olds' I have seen are the older models mostly the mid 70's models
and a couple of 69's. 


> Tom Lentz
> tlentz@ior.com

Steve
71 Cutlass S 455
93 Mustang LX 5.0

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 22:42:28 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: '66 Cutlass Convertible Trim Needed.

 Consider Tamraz's & ask for Bob.  I receive 396% commission on all items
sold through my referrals.

Tamraz's has most of the items sold elsewhere & the prices & service have
been good for me.  You may ask them who makes the product that they are
using & then compare prices & quality.

    Tamraz's Parts Discount Warehouse
    100222 South Bode Road
    Plainfield, Illinois 60544
    1-800-442-4601

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama




>To all,
>
>Thanks for your help on the blue convertible top for my '66.  I have one
more
>pressing question for the restoration of the car. - - Trim for the exterior
>sides and wheel wells.  Again, this is not a 442 but rather a Cutlass
>convertible.  Anyone know of good sources or possible sources?
>
>Thanks again for your input.
>Dave Jenkins
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 23:57:09 -0400 (EDT)
From: Yorcoy@aol.com
Subject: Re: Disappointed with Members

Stripes, gotta love it!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Aug 1997 00:07:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: more tire info

my friend has a 71 cuda w/a set of 275/60 15 at the back,just 2 let ya
know..........

bernie.......cranford nj.........almost 4-got the above tires are BFG radial
t/a's

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 23:10:15 -0700
From: "Forrest Johnson" <johnson@edisongroup.com>
Subject: Re: Advice needed - Oldsmobile shop

Darrin Johnson wrote:
> 
> I have recently discovered a shop in my area that specializes in Oldsmobiles,
> but unfortunately I can't recommend them.  I was driving through Lewisville,
> Texas and happened to notice a shop with a large number of 1968 - 1972
> Oldsmobiles (mostly convertibles).  I stopped in to look around and ask if he
> sold parts.  I was looking for a core support, control arms, both fenders, and
> some other small parts for my 72 Cutlass Convertible.  He said that he had all
> the parts that I was looking for (but not at his shop) and we agreed on a
> price.  Unfortunately, one of the fenders that I received is not usable (at
> least by me) because of rust.  I contacted the shop the following day, and an
> agreement (verbal agreement) was reached to replace the unusable fender.  This
> was almost three months ago and I still dont have a replacement fender.  I
> havent given up yet, but I need some advice on how to get this shop to comply
> with the agreement to replace the fender.
> 
> If I cant get the replacement fender in the next few weeks, I guess that I
> will have 2 fenders for sale.  (LH fender fairly straight but rusted through on
> lower front - RH not as straight and rusted through on lower rear).
> 
> Darrin Johnson (djohnsn@ibm.net or xdarrinj@ti.com)
> Wylie, TX

Darrin,

I have also stopped by this shop and know of people who
have done business with him.  Be careful.  He isn't
always on the up and up.  He will take your money and you
can get OK work done, but on a long time schedule.  
If you want details, email me directly.


fjohnson@edisongroup.com
68 olds cutlasses

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 23:21:27 -0700
From: "Forrest Johnson" <johnson@edisongroup.com>
Subject: Re: Advice needed - Oldsmobile shop

jones wrote:
> 
> ----------
> > From: Darrin Johnson <xdarrinj@ti.com>
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: Advice needed - Oldsmobile shop
> > Date: Thursday, August 21, 1997 5:52 PM
> >
> > I have recently discovered a shop in my area that specializes in
> Oldsmobiles,
> > but unfortunately I can't recommend them.  I was driving through
> Lewisville,
> > Texas and happened to notice a shop with a large number of 1968 - 1972
> > Oldsmobiles (mostly convertibles).  I stopped in to look around and ask
> if he
> > sold parts.  I was looking for a core support, control arms, both
> fenders, and
> > some other small parts for my 72 Cutlass Convertible.  He said that he
> had all
> > the parts that I was looking for (but not at his shop) and we agreed on a
> > price.  Unfortunately, one of the fenders that I received is not usable
> (at
> > least by me) because of rust.  I contacted the shop the following day,
> and an
> > agreement (verbal agreement) was reached to replace the unusable fender.
> This
> > was almost three months ago and I still dont have a replacement fender.
> I
> > havent given up yet, but I need some advice on how to get this shop to
> comply
> > with the agreement to replace the fender.
> >
> > If I cant get the replacement fender in the next few weeks, I guess that
> I
> > will have 2 fenders for sale.  (LH fender fairly straight but rusted
> through on
> > lower front - RH not as straight and rusted through on lower rear).
> >
> > Darrin Johnson (djohnsn@ibm.net or xdarrinj@ti.com)
> > Wylie, TX
> >
> I've heard several stories about that guy...... none of them good. Post his
> name so everyone will be warned.
> Walter


North Texas Auto Center
590 E. HWY 121
Lewiville, TX  75057

Advertises
Paint & body, upholstery,
auto repair & restoration

68 - 72 Oldsmobiles.

Wish I had good things to say, But
you can buy 'New' parts for about his used.
I wouldn't leave my car there overnight,
much less unattended.

Forrest Johnson
Plano, TX
fjohnson@edisongroup.com

------------------------------

Date: 21 Aug 1997 20:34:18 PST
From: mjones@dragon.gleep.com
Subject: oldsmobile-digest V1 #812

OL>Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 22:08:48 -0400
OL>From: jim helle <helle@theonramp.net>
OL>Subject: starter porblems

OL>Got a 72 cutlass with a 350. After I drive it for 1/2 hour or so and
OL>shut it down and try to start up again it acts like a dead battery.
OL>Leave it sit for 3/4 of a hour and the motor spins great. The guy I
OL>bought the car from told me he had this same problem. He solve it by
OL>putting on a flex fan. (he had already put on a new starter). I didn't
OL>like the sound of the flex fan, so I put a new clutch on it a put the
OL>original fan back on. Is there a way of keeping the starter cool while
OL>the engine is running? I know someone has had the same problem, How did
OL>you solve it?

OL>Thanks
OL>Jim Helle

I had the same symptoms in my '78 Delta 88, it would barely crank when
it was hot, acting like a dead battery.  Well, my dad and I took it out
of the car and got it on the workbench, and the BUSHING (yes, bushing)
that the starter shaft rides on was literally worn to nothing.  I know
the car has had several starters (the one I took off was a
remanufactured unit) so I had to get a new starter.  BTW, we took the
starter apart and made a little shim for the shaft to ride on as a temp.
fix (I was 70 miles from where I lived) and got the starter within that
week.

Mike Jones
'78 Delta 88 2dr.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Aug 1997 00:38:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: AKOHLER@aol.com
Subject: Re: engines

Yes they do. I will look up the part #s tomarro and post them here. I also
forgot to give the part #s for the engines so here they are 350 with A.I.R
22536534 350 without A.I.R.22536536 . I also forgot to mention that there is
no core charge on these engines, so you get to keep the original #s matching
engine.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Aug 1997 00:42:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: Disappointed with Members, EXCEPT 4 ME

im glad somebody got it :-] !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 BERNIE
   67 f-85
  67 442 CONV
   69 MACH 1
 86 SALON

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 21:37:19 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: LOST!!

Steve B. wrote:

> Tom Lentz wrote:
> >
> > Adam wrote:
> >
> > > Today, even with no speedometer, I came to the stop light next to a
> > > m*nte c*rl* SS, he LEFT ME off the line like i was a rock... he
> >
> > Probably due to the MC's SS's 3.73:1 rear gears.  Combined with the stock
> > 2400rpm stall converter and the low first gear in the 200-4R, it makes for
> > one heck of a launch off the line.  I know, I regularly blow away 5.slow's
> > with my '84 H/O (just off the line, they eventually would catch up but by
>
> Wow, now this has me intrigued, I have only raced a couple of MC SS and
> a late model 442 at the dragway and the results were much different. My
> 5.slow ;-) runs mid to late 14's (best to date is a 14.6 @ 95.5 with

I haven't taken the H/O to the track, but I've seen magazine reviews that put it
at 15.6-15.8.  I might get 15.5 with the few simple mods that I've done (bench
racing is fun!).  I didn't mean it to sound like I leave the 5.slows as a tiny
dot in my rear view mirror (that would be a '69 H/O ;-)  ), but I do beat them
off the line, and for at least the first few car lengths.  By the time I've hit
30-40mph (which isn't long at all), they're caught up and fighting hard, but I
usually ease off and that point (and let them get the speeding ticket).  That
14.6 can't be stock, is it?  I've heard they get about 15.2's stock.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Aug 1997 01:06:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: LOST!!

In a message dated 97-08-21 23:51:56 EDT, you write:

<< > > Today, even with no speedometer, I came to the stop light next to a
 > > m*nte c*rl* SS, he LEFT ME off the line like i was a rock... he
 > 
 > Probably due to the MC's SS's 3.73:1 rear gears.  Combined with the stock
 > 2400rpm stall converter and the low first gear in the 200-4R, it makes for
 > one heck of a launch off the line.  I know, I regularly blow away 5.slow's
 > with my '84 H/O (just off the line, they eventually would catch up but by
 > that time I'm doing at least the speed limit so I ease off).
  >>

I could very easily be wrong here and if I am I am sure there are those
who will be quick to point it out...;-).. but I thought that most Monte SS's
had 3.42 rears and that the tranny was the 700R4 which does not have 
as low a first gear as the 200r4 does. And 2200 stall?.......TIM

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #813
********************************

