To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #839


oldsmobile-digest      Tuesday, September 9 1997      Volume 01 : Number 839



70 steering wheel
Re: 70 steering wheel
Re: 442's at Lansing on the Bridge & hot starts
SX update, the beauty of a parts-car, and Q's about wiring harness tape
Q: U-joint Strap for '70 SX
Re: Q: U-joint Strap for '70 SX
Re: pre 71 455 cores
Re[2]: '70 Olds 442
Rear End ID and swap, need fast help
Re: Questions
Re: Window questions
Re: Q's about wiring  harness tape
Re: Window questions
Re: 70 Rallye Info Needed!!!
Re: Plastic Chrome
Re: 70 Rallye Info Needed!!!
Hi I'm back!
Re: 70 Rallye Info Needed!!!
Re: 70 Rallye Info Needed!!!
Re: 70 Rallye Info Needed!!!
Re[2]: Questions
RE: 70 Rallye Info Needed!!!
Re: Console colors
Re: Parting out 1968 Cutlass Convertible
Engine Shipping Costs (Was: Re: Console colors)
More on console colors
MUFFLERS
[none]
Re: MUFFLERS
Re: No Subject
Re: Bogging?
Re: 70 Rallye Info Needed!!!
Re: '70 Olds 442
Re: '70 Olds 442
Oldsmobile Cruise Nite THIS SATURDAY
Re: Parts?
Olds Centennial Club Mtg 9/9 - MD
Re: MUFFLERS
Re: Engine Shipping Costs
RE: Rare 88s and 98s
Brothers question
dualgate question
Re: '70 Olds 442
Brothers question
UNBOUNCE: Rare 88s and 98s
Re: pre 71 455 cores
UNBOUNCE: Re: Bogging?
Re: dualgate question
Re: Unusual Heads
Re: MUFFLERS
Re: advice on purchasing '70 442
Re: advice on purchasing '70 442
UNBOUNCE: Re: Mufflers
Performance information????
Re: Engine tuning
Re: Carburetor number
Re: Carburetor number
Re: UNBOUNCE: Rare 88s and 98s
Parts wanted
Re: SSI
Overhauling 455...  Am I crazy?
Re: pre 71 455 cores

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Sep 1997 23:02:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Douglas J Harkema" <harkema2@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: 70 steering wheel

Hi
    I have a 70 cutlass supreme convertible.  The standard steering wheel is
cracked and not looking very good.  The color of the wheel and interior is
brown.  My question is Is it possible to find the correct wheel in good
condition or will I have to replace it with a ralley wheel?  If anyone has
either wheel I would appreciate hearing from you.

Also would the ralley whell have been an option on this car?  In 70 I believe
that the horn button on the ralley wheel would be black.  They didn't start
color cooridinating the horn and wheel support until 71.  Is this right?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Doug Harkema
70 CS conv't

harkema2@piolt.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Sep 1997 23:11:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Douglas J Harkema" <harkema2@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Re: 70 steering wheel

harkema2@pilot.msu.edu
>
> Doug Harkema
> 70 CS conv't
>
> harkema2@piolt.msu.edu
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Sep 1997 15:37:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: Re: 442's at Lansing on the Bridge & hot starts

That would be great! Thanks so much! Happy Oldsmobiling!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 04:26:47 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: SX update, the beauty of a parts-car, and Q's about wiring harness 
tape

*Finally* got a chance to do some work on the SX yesterday; only a few
hours, but I haven't been able to do *anything* to it since you heard the
saga of my getting it home about a month ago (the memory of it is nearly
gone; see, the therapy seems to be working! ;)

I got the blower motor, exhaust manifolds, and starter on, and replaced
parts of the wiring harness that had come into contact with the exhaust
pipes. I've never been a big auto electric guy, but replacing these wires
was a snap. I cut off all the old wrap, unbolted and unplugged the harness
connector at the firewall, used some needlenose pliers to compress the
little locking "tab" on the wire terminal at that harness connector, pushed
it out, and reversed the procedure to install the replacement wire. It
sounds much harder than it is, though I'm sure it would be a real b*tch
doing this with the wheelwells on the car (they're out behind my garage
right now, making it much easier to work up front on the SX).

Question: What should I use to wrap or cover the wiring harness in the
engine compartment? Is there a semi-cloth tape, like what came from the
factory originally, available to wrap the wires, or should I use that slit
plastic tubing as found on newer cars? Originality is not a real concern of
mine; I just want it to look good and protect the wires a bit from the
underhood heat.

I had planned on patching the factory wire with some splices and such, when
I remembered that the harness from the Vista Cruiser I parted would probably
have the same wire. This is the kind of thing that a parts car *really*
comes in handy. Here's a short list of things I've used from the parts car,
that would have cost a fortune (relatively speaking) and taken forever to
get individually:

* Control arms and steering linkage
* Starter and resistor ignition wire in the wiring harness
* A/C blower relay and connectors (old ones kind of melted)
* Tube for positive battery cable to pass through
* Front suspension control arms
* Steering linkage
* A pile of body bolts and trim screws

It's nice to be able to grab something from the VC's parts boxes when I find
it missing on the SX. I highly recommend a parts car right along side you if
you're doing a major renovation on a car. The VC went off to the crusher
long ago, but I'm so glad that I pulled everything that I did, even if it
didn't seem worth the effort at the time.

Whoever made the comment about project cars being looked at as model cars in
a 1:1 scale (Bob H., was that you who said that?), is absolutely on the
mark. I've got all the parts lined up, I'm just waiting for the time to get
them all on there in the right sequence.

Next up is dropping the gas tank, and pop-riveting a temporary trunk floor
in place until I can get a real piece welded in.

Question: Does anyone have a source for the gas tank strap bolts?
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 04:28:08 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Q: U-joint Strap for '70 SX

The (one) original u-bolt that holds the u-joint to the rear pinion is too
corroded to use, but I can't seem to find the proper replacements. I got a
pair yesterday, but the nuts aren't engaging fully on the bolt. Does anyone
have a manufacturer and part ª for one of these U-bolts, or good luck
replacing them with a U-bolt designed for something else?
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 00:50:31 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Q: U-joint Strap for '70 SX

At 04:28 AM 9/8/97 GMT, you wrote:
>The (one) original u-bolt that holds the u-joint to the rear pinion is too
>corroded to use, but I can't seem to find the proper replacements. I got a
>pair yesterday, but the nuts aren't engaging fully on the bolt. Does anyone
>have a manufacturer and part ª for one of these U-bolts, or good luck
>replacing them with a U-bolt designed for something else?
>_______________________________________________________
>Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
>Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
>


Dr. Bob

        Have you tried the help section in your local parts store? I've seen
two or three different U-joint straps there.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 04:50:36 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: pre 71 455 cores

>According to everything I've read, 455 cores are "cheap and plentiful".
>This doesn't seem to be the case.  Even Mondello says that the heads (A,
>B, and C) are difficult to find.  But even after having broadened  to
>pre-'74 blocks (nickel content was still at a very good level), the only
>engine I have been able to locate anywhere locally was already bored
>60-over and had no heads.  I would really prefer an engine that had not
>had the heck bored out of it and I was really hoping to come up with a
>long block.
>
>    Does anyone have any help or advice they can offer?  I am REALLY
>itching to get my Cutlass back on the road :)

I think your best bet might be to buy a whole '68-'74 Delta 88, 98 or
ideally a Toronado and just pull the motor out of that; you can probably
pick up a car for not that much more than an engine alone (got my '68 Toro
donor for $300, and sold it w/o engine for $150), and you might actually be
able to sell parts from the shell before having it towed off to the crusher.

This assumes, of course, that you have the space, time and equipment to pull
a motor, and a place to keep the shell when all this is going on.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Sep 1997 02:05:25 -0400
From: Ed Burger <eburger@sagelink.com>
Subject: Re[2]: '70 Olds 442

>     Get a breathable cloth (not nylon) car cover.  Spend the money and
get
>     a good one.  Wash the car before parking it and put the cover on
it.
>     Yes, the car will get wet, but it will also dry as rapidly as
>     possible.

I don't have the money to spend one a good cover even if I wanted to!

>     Put a tray of mothballs inside the car to absorb moisture.

Done that!

Would this work:  Placing 2x4's on the roof, hood and trunk, and placing
the tarp across them (but leaving it loose)?  I've heard this idea from
some other people.  Fortunately, all of the chrome is off of the car, so
that wont be a worry.

Ed
Thanks everyone for thier replies.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 00:43:36 -0600
From: "Igor" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Subject: Rear End ID and swap, need fast help

I am looking to pick-up a different rear-end for my '81 Delta 88.  It has
a origional rear-end, what I think is a 2.73.  I would like to change the
whole thing and put in a 3.43 or a 3.73.  Which cars had these rear ends.
I heard that a Custom Cruiser or a Caprice wagon will have higher rear-ends
with some optional towing packages.  Will these rear ends fit, or should I
get them from other cars?   If so, which other cars?  What year range
should these cars be?  Also, how can I ID what axel ratio the car has.  I
would like to keep my stock rear-end in case something goes wrong with the
new one, or I just don't like it, so I want to just bolt in the new one I
get.  Will it bolt-up perfectly or will I have to do some adjustments?
What common problems should I watch for?  I am looking to do it within next
few days (or atleast acquire a new rear-end), so I desperatley need help.
I have acquired a 455 engine for this car (now equiped with a 307), but the
455 needs a full rebuild and won't be ready for a while.  I also got a
newly rebuilt TH-400.  I am looking to get a shift kit, but wonder if I
could put the TH-400 trans in place of current TH-250 behind the 307.  I
can't wait to put the 455 in, but still want to see what the 307 will do
with new rear end and shift kit.  Thanks for any help.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 307
1995 Intrepid 3.3
1976 Delta 88 455

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Sep 1997 16:42:29 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: Questions

 I believe that you can transfer the power windows though.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama




>Joe,
>
>>   Are the doors different between 1968 442 HT and SC?
>>
>>      Yep, 'fraid so.  Nice try, but those power window doors won't go on
>>      your sport coupe.
>
>It is eerie that you know me so well Joe. :-)
>
>Chris
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 03:20:23 -0700
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Window questions

Bill,

>  I believe that you can transfer the power windows though.

Now I am really confused.  Joe Padavano says that it won't work and
you say they will.  Has anyone attempted to swap from crank windows
to power windows between SC and HTs (I know this is a long shot)?

Please let me know.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 08:54:28 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Q's about wiring  harness tape

> Question: What should I use to wrap or cover the wiring harness in the
> engine compartment? Is there a semi-cloth tape, like what came from the
> factory originally, available to wrap the wires, or should I use that slit
> plastic tubing as found on newer cars?


Eastwood has some of the stretch wrap that is not sticky-backed that you
tie off at the ends just for this purpose.  I don't recall if they have
the cloth stuff though.  You may try M&H Wiring Fabricators service to
see about the cloth type. You can call them at 1-310-926-3552.  They
have completely new harness assemblies too if you need them.  The ribbed
tube stuff may work, however it could get bulky in there.  You would
still have to route the tube and tape it, clamp it, clip it, whatever to
route it.  You would reduce the space in some routes too, which could
put the tube in contact with hot items.


> Question: Does anyone have a source for the gas tank strap bolts?

I've seen Year one has a complete front bolt kit for around 25 bucks (I
not sure on the price)

Hope this helps.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 09:00:18 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Window questions

> Joe Padavano says that it won't work and
> you say they will.  Has anyone attempted to swap from crank windows
> to power windows between SC and HTs (I know this is a long shot)?
>
Fisher body manual says they are different window arms, etc.  The
REGULATORS though may interchange.  Try measuring the four bolt hole
distances to see if they used the same regulator.  If you can figure out
how to get the sector gear off (they are different) then you may be able
to do this.  Another idea, is if you can figure out how to get the
window handle pivot out, and the power window motor/actuator in its
place, you just may have something there.  Sorry, I've never done this,
but it's worth a shot.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 10:01:14 -0400
From: mike.blankenship@medaphis.com
Subject: Re: 70 Rallye Info Needed!!!

I have owned 3 Rallye 350's over the years, here are a few comments.

All Ralley's had the obvious OAI and rear deck spoilers. All were painted
Sebring Yellow.  All the cars I owned had the "--" for paint code on the trim
tag. "--" is for the 4 special order paints.  All had the FE2 handling package,
The have a nice balanced ride. The biggest short comings to me were a lack of
power.  They will come alive however with a better bumpstick, something like a
w31 variety. The coated bumpers were sometimes swapped by dealers with
chrome ones when the cars didnt sell.  You either love the yellow bumpers or
hate them.  I have also heard of vinyl tops being added by dealers to attract
buyers.  The reproduction stripe kits are about $600 these days.

If interested I know of a 66,000 mile car, 90% original paint and stripes,
original motor and trans. auto, console, a/c, ps, pb for sale for $6500.

Mike
66 442
70 442
70 442 W30
71 442 Convt
72 442 Convt

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 10:05:52 -0400
From: mike.blankenship@medaphis.com
Subject: Re: Plastic Chrome

- ----- Begin Included Message -----

From oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca Fri Sep  5 22:49 EDT 1997
X-Sender: chermac@mailhub.exis.net

Where is Mr. G's, I have heard of them? Phone number?

Mike
_______________________________________________________________________________
Steve

        The best place I've found is Mr G's plastic chrome plating. The
gauge bezel is $48.50 detailed. That means the black paint is on it. They
recommend this because the plating is so thin that you could take it off
with masking tape to paint it. The console plate is about the same price.
Total my bill was $120.00 with shipping. The results are impressive. If your
not worried about getting your original parts back they will exchange them
for ones already done for a faster turn around. Mine took about 5 days.

Jim Chermack



- -

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 10:42:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: Re: 70 Rallye Info Needed!!!

In a message dated 97-09-08 10:07:48 EDT, you write:

<<
 >>
Thanks for that information! I already have found a rallye and I'm probably
going to buy it! I have heard such great things from all of you out there!
Thanks! What is the name of the place that sells the stripes? The car I'm
looking at doesn't have the stripes.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 11:27:23 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Hi I'm back!

Hello all!

our vacation to Vegas and Arizona went without a hitch.  good to be
back home and on the list again.

While in Arizona, I visited about 15 or so junkyards.  Thirteen of
these were in the Tucson area.  Between the 13 yards I found only about
eight or nine cars! (1969-1972)

All, and I mean ALL were totally destroyed on the inside!  Many body
parts were either damaged or "picked over" already.  Any interior parts
such as door panels, dash, seats, etc. that was left, was eaten by the
hi temperature and sun.  Most had the gauges intact, but no rally
packs. :(  I did find one clock though.

About 50 miles north of Tucson, I found two other yards.  Between these
two I found about six cars (1969-1970).  Same story on these, only most
had no engine or trans in them.  Pitiful site.

For anyone headed to the Tucson area... don't waste your time looking
for trim or interior parts.  Not alot to choose from.

You would be better off trying to find a driveable "parts car".

That's my story after visiting the beautiful and HOT Arizona.

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 10:52:41 -0400
From: mike.blankenship@medaphis.com
Subject: Re: 70 Rallye Info Needed!!!

I know Brothers has them, probably most vendors carry them.  If Im not
mistaken all of them are made from the same manufacturer.

Mike

 >>
Thanks for that information! I already have found a rallye and I'm probably
going to buy it! I have heard such great things from all of you out there!
Thanks! What is the name of the place that sells the stripes? The car I'm
looking at doesn't have the stripes.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 12:01:21 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: 70 Rallye Info Needed!!!

With all of this Rallye 350 talk, I still have some serious confusion
in my mind about exactly what these were. I know what they look like,
but it's confusing as to what they had for a powertrain and chassis. I
know not all W-31s were Rallye 350's, but were any (or all) Rallye 350's
W-31s? Or did they just have the regular 350/4-bbl with the mild cam
that you could order in any Olds? Did they all have FE2 suspension or
was it an option?

I guess what I'm really asking is: was the Rallye 350 just basically
cosmetics or did it have any performance parts too? My confusion stems
from a dim memory of reading a road test of one at the time they were
new that left the distinct impression it was a bit of a rowdy car to
drive, but later on it seemed that they were paint-and-stripe
packages only. Confused as always,

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 11:13:25 -0400 (EDT)
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: Re: 70 Rallye Info Needed!!!

A rallye 350 was not a w31. A w31 had 350,325 horse where as the rallye had a
350,310 horse. Yes, the rallye had dual exhausts and it had a milder cam. All
the rallye was was an insurance beater. It was designed to look like a racey,
sporty kind of car, and to keep up with the roadr*nner, or better known as
roadkill! Pretty much all it was was stripes, bright yellow paint and a olds
rocket v8. I have a w31 right now and I am looking at a rallye. They are
pretty nice and rare, sporty looking cars! I hope that this had answered your
questions!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 97 11:11:48 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re[2]: Questions

 I believe that you can transfer the power windows though.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

     Pretty sure you can't, Bill.  I checked in the parts book a while back
     when Chris first asked, and while the hardtop and convertible window
     regulators are the same, the sport coupe uses different parts.  A
     further check of the illustrations (and granted, these are somewhat
     generic) shows a very different setup between the sport coupe's framed
     windows and the hardtop/convert frameless units.  Apparently, the
     frameless design requires significantly more "stuff" down inside the
     door/quarter to guide the glass and keep it aligned.  I'd always
     wondered why the sport coupes were lighter (and cheaper) than the
     hardtops; apparently this added complexity in the window regulator is
     at least part of the reason.

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 11:14:31 -0400
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: RE: 70 Rallye Info Needed!!!

Brothers set cost $575 set (R350). Their number is:
1-800-442-7278.

Bobby
70 442 Escape Back to the...Past

-----Original Message-----
From:mike.blankenship@medaphis.com
[SMTP:mike.blankenship@medaphis.com]
Sent:Monday, September 08, 1997 10:53 AM
To:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:Re: 70 Rallye Info Needed!!!


I know Brothers has them, probably most vendors carry them.  If
Im not
mistaken all of them are made from the same manufacturer.

Mike

 >>
Thanks for that information! I already have found a rallye and
I'm probably
going to buy it! I have heard such great things from all of you
out there!
Thanks! What is the name of the place that sells the stripes?
The car I'm
looking at doesn't have the stripes.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 08:26:01 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: Console colors

I'm not sure where CoupeKing is at, but you should come up to the Northwest.  I
was at the Pull-n-Save yard here in Spokane, WA last Friday grabbing a few
screws, bolts, and trim items for my '84 (at least a dozen G-body Cutlass's in
there).  Saw two 455's w/ C heads, a '71 Cutlass (interior gutted, rear end
gone, but sheet metal all there except hood) w/ ª7 head 350, a '64 (?) Delta 88
in superb shape (wonder why it's even in there), and a '65ish 98 both with
A-head big blocks.  They don't use salt on the roads here, so things aren't
nearly as rusty as you'd expect.

If anyone is ever in the area, drop me a line and I'll be happy to go junkyard
cruising with ya.  I know of another junkyard in N. Idaho (off Hwy 95, just
North of Hayden) that's fairly large and seems to specialize in older cars.
I've never been in, but what I can see from the road confirms it--lots of 
chrome
and big curvy 40-50's style fenders.  It's fairly well hidden with a big fence
and I never even knew it was there until a short time ago.  This may be the 
yard
that there were rumors about on this list a year or more ago if any of the 
older
members remember that discussion.

Tom Lentz
tlentz@ior.com

Kurt Heinrich wrote:

> Where are located that you're finding these cars in junkyards with
> consoles intact!?!?!?!
> I'm lucky when find an old Olds in a junkyard, and even luckier when I
> find ~anything~ left on it!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 10:46:53 -0600
From: Art Pforr <artp@iem.com>
Subject: Re: Parting out 1968 Cutlass Convertible

I had emailed earlier about a grille, I am looking for a grille for a 68
Cutlass S, the point of my grille is broken out. Also need a right tail
light lens for 68 442.
At 07:56 PM 8/24/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Well, with work proceeding on my 1970 Cutlass, time to part out the ramblin'
>wreck 1968 Cutlass.  The body is shot, so I'm going to dismantle and keep and
>sell what I can.  Better to give it to a collector than send it to a
>junkyard.  Anyone interested please contact me at glasshotei@aol.com, as I
>only get the digest and I might miss your letter.  Here is what is still good
>and salvagable on the car:
>
>3    P01 14" hubcaps
>1    14x6 SS II wheel (needs to be repainted, it's kinda grungy)
>complete set of exterior trim, in pretty good condition
>rear bumper is in good condition, front is so so
>grill has a couple of cracks, but useable
>black dashpad w/AC, NO splits in the vinyl
>glovebox door
>rear seat back, black original vinyl, a few splits and rips
>good set of rear quarter interior trim, in original vinyl
>all top components work, but motor could use a rebuild.
>3 year old carpeting
>rubber trunk mat in good condition
>350 engine with a 1970 442 intake and 4bbl carb
>
>There are some other useable parts as well.  If anyone needs anything let me
>know.  A bonus if you are near Chicago, and I don't have to ship this stuff.
>
IEM, Inc.
Art Pforr
Customer Service
Hardware Technical Support
Phone 970-221-3005
Fax 970-221-3709
artp@iem.com
http://www.iem.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 11:46:05 -0500
From: JR <joertexas@earthlink.net>
Subject: Engine Shipping Costs (Was: Re: Console colors)

Tom Lentz wrote:
>
> I'm not sure where CoupeKing is at, but you should come up to the Northwest.
I was > at the Pull-n-Save yard here in Spokane, WA last Friday grabbing a few
screws, > bolts, and trim items for my '84 (at least a dozen G-body Cutlass's i
n
there).  Saw > two 455's w/ C heads, a '71 Cutlass (interior gutted, rear end
gone, but sheet > metal all there except hood) w/ ª7 head 350, a '64 (?) Delta
88 in superb shape > (wonder why it's even in there), and a '65ish 98 both with
A-head big blocks.  They > don't use salt on the roads here, so things aren't
nearly as rusty as you'd expect.

I live near Brownsville, Texas and I'm having a tough time finding any
pre-1980 Oldsmobiles at all. I'm interested in a 455 with C heads that I
can rebuild, but I'm not sure what the shipping costs would be. Does
anyone know how much a complete engine would weigh and/or has anyone
shipped an engine lately?

JR
72 Cutlass S

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 97 12:55:22 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: More on console colors

     Well, I figured I'd get to the bottom of this console color thing.
     Look, I sez to myself, you've got a parts book.  Just look up what
     colors were listed.  How hard can it be, I sez.

     Flip to the console parts illustration.  "Body, Console", Group 10.240.
     Thumb through the actual parts catalog.  Lessee..."Panel,
     Instrument"...hmmm...colors listed - black, teal, green, blue....this
     is a good sign.   Group 10...10.2...10.240...ah, here it is:

     ...Body, Console (paint to match)...

     AAAAAARRRRGGHH!!!!


     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 10:11:23 -0700
From: Erik Nowacki <enowacki@titan.com>
Subject: MUFFLERS

Hi All,

I need some advice on mufflers.  A couple of months ago I put a couple of
Flowtech Terminators on my VC and it sounded OK.  I recently replaced the
tired old stock 455 with a rebuilt one and the car is now LOUD.  The
current engine is a 455 with 9.5 compression, a Mondello 20-22 cam and an
Edelbrock Performer intake.  The cam and/or compression increase really
bumped the decibels at the other end.  Now the neighbors are up in arms
when I warm it up at 7 am to go to work and, more importantly, my financial
expert is not happy with the loudness.

Solution:  Get new, quieter, mufflers.

Advice needed:  Has anyone had any experience with the 3 chamber
Flowmasters, Borlas or other type/brand when hooked up behind a similarly
modified 455?

BTW, i am using the stock dual exhaust manifolds, W and Z.


Thanks in advance for any input.

Erik Nowacki
San Diego
72 Vista Cruiser (LOUD)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 11:18:49 -0600 (MDT)
From: Dustin Cross <dcross@selway.umt.edu>
Subject: [none]

I'm back  :)

with a problem :(

the transmission in my '89 cutlass supreme started acting up this summer
it is the automatic  with overdrive
at first it would act like it wouldnt shift into 1st   it would start out
sluggish but once it got up to about 35mph it was fine   then after
sitting for a couple weeks it only had low gear!    I'm hoping for a
simple solution since getting this one rebuilt is between $800 and $1200

any ideas?   anyone?

Dustin

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 97 13:49:28 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: MUFFLERS

Erik "Decibel" Nowacki wrote:

I need some advice on mufflers...

       Advice?  From this group?  You expect someone here to have an
       opinion? :-)

Advice needed:  Has anyone had any experience with the 3 chamber
Flowmasters, Borlas or other type/brand when hooked up behind a similarly
modified 455?

        I still stand by the Walker Dynomax Turbos.  Sound great, price is
        reasonable, and they consistently place high in flow tests in the
        auto mags.

        Joe Padavano
        padavano.joe@orbital.com

        66 442
        68 W-30
        69 H/O
        70 W-30




------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 13:51:07 -0400 (EDT)
From: ZPoet22@aol.com
Subject: Re: No Subject

Hello Dustin, Have you checked to see if it was the solenoid for the lock up
converter?  I have a cutlass supreme also and has done something similar to
what you explain in your situation.  I found my problem was the solenoid
was'nt disengaging itself quick enough.. Worn out, so I went and bought a new
one , now no problems.. If I were you I'd take the car out and test it again.
 Get up to speed, go to your next stop sign, take off as soon as ya stop. If
it feels like the car is'nt in gear and it suddenly kicks in. It will more
than likely be your lock up soleniod for the torque converter.. If that
does'nt work, ask some of the other people from the olds mailing list..

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 11:14:33 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@nfs.aisf.com>
Subject: Re: Bogging?

Hi all,

When I drive to work in the morning and my DRB is basically cold,
when I accelerated in "D" the car sort of bogs down as if it has no
power.  If I drive the car, like I normally do, like a stick and shift
from 1 to 2 to 3 myself I don't get that bog.  Any clues?

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 14:25:49 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 70 Rallye Info Needed!!!

DROLDS350@aol.com wrote:
>
> A rallye 350 was not a w31.

I thought I remember reading this somewhere that a FEW Rallye 350s were
built with the W-31 engine.

Maybe I'm wrong.  The Rallye 350 was the "W-45" package for 1970.  Just
two years earlier the W-45 was the non-air H/O.  The Rallye 350 I
believe was originally to be the 1970 H/O, but obviously something went
awry between Hurst and Oldsmobile. (keys: Wing, wild graphics) Maybe
because Hurst couldn't crank 'em out fast enough for Oldsmobile's
liking, so they wanted a semi-mass produced car for 70.  And they wanted
them to sell, so they went with an insurance-friendly car.  Thinking
about it, it makes some sense.  I mean, come on, when you already have
the fine W-31 and W-30, why would anyone think Olds would build anything
else as long as the W-30/31s were selling?

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 13:28:01 -0500
From: John Schumacher <jd.schumacher@baylordallas.edu>
Subject: Re: '70 Olds 442

Here's my idea!  With paper towels, wipe the complete car down with
transmission fluid.  About once/month wash the car and repeat the
procedure.  Of course paint prep will take longer, but a little more
soap is better than rust.

Just my 0.02....

- --
John "Shoe-Man" Schumacher
North Texas Olds Club ª25464 Dynamic 88
Dallas, Texas69 442
OCA ª02115174 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 13:47:02 -0500
From: John Schumacher <jd.schumacher@baylordallas.edu>
Subject: Re: '70 Olds 442

I forgot! Find your grease gun or get some $1.15 wheel bearing grease.
Put a bead where the stainless meets the windshield and on the back
window also.  This will keep the elements out.  Wheel bearing grease
will also keep your hands warm if you can't find good gloves.  (don't
try the monkey-bars though)

Now I'm up to 0.04...

- --
John "Shoe-Man" Schumacher
North Texas Olds Club ª25464 Dynamic 88
Dallas, Texas69 442
OCA ª02115174 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 97 15:25:57 -0500
From: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
Subject: Oldsmobile Cruise Nite THIS SATURDAY

Just one more shameless plug

Saturday September 13, 1997
===========================================================================
1st ANNUAL OLDSMOBILE CENTENNIAL CLUB CRUISE NITE.
Hosted by the Oldsmobile Centennial Club, newest chapter of OCA. At The Big
M Restaurant/Drive-In Theater, P.O. Box 111, Rt. 22, Churchville, MD.
(Between Bel Air & Aberdeen, MD. 5 miles west of I-95) All years and
condition Oldsmobiles welcome, daily drivers to show trailer queens. Free
goodie bag to first 50 Oldsmobile through the gate. Open to the public.
Other vehicles welcome to cruise on in. Music, fun and games, 50/50
drawing. Shaded picnic tables and good old fashion drive-in food available.
Across the street is miniature golf course, batting cages, video games,
driving range and a soft ice cream cone joint.  Definitely a family kind of
place.


Info:
Brad Nicholson @ (410) 256-0381   e-mail: brad442@erols.com
Club Web Link at http://www.erols.com/brad442/occ
The Big M @ (410) 734-4370.

- --------------------------------------------------------------------------
 ---
| | | Brad Nicholson
| | | 1987 442 W-42
|/|\| 1994 Eighty Eight LSS
| | | Oldsmobile Club of America ª18984
 ---  Oldsmobile Centennial Club, Newest Chapter of OCA
(W) brad.nicholson@ssa.gov   (H) brad442@erols.com
OCC Web Page - http://www.erols/com/brad442/occ
OCA Web Page - http://www.erols/com/brad442/oca

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 12:29:32 -0700
From: Erik Nowacki <enowacki@titan.com>
Subject: Re: Parts?

At 06:03 PM 9/6/97 +0200, you wrote:
>Hello everyone, I wonder, cause in Holland I can't get them anymore, if I
>can order parts online.
>I am looking for doorsealers and a rear bumper for a olds delta 88 royale
>town sedan from 1976.
>I hope anyone can help me!
>Greetings from archy from the Netherlands.
>
Archy,

If you have the part numbers, you can try www.partsvoice.com.  You will
find a listing of GM dealers who have that part in stock and hopefully the
dealers will be able to ship to the Netherlands.

Erik Nowacki
San Diego
72 Vista Cruiser

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 97 15:29:41 -0500
From: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
Subject: Olds Centennial Club Mtg 9/9 - MD

Another shameless plug:

Second Tuesday of Each Month - TOMORROW !!!
OCC Monthly Meeting
Location: ERNIE SWANSON OLDSMOBILE 410 N. CRAIN HIGHWAY, GLEN BURNIE, MD
Phone: (410) 768-8800 Fax: (410) 768-1948

All we ask is that you NOT park in front of the dealership as they will be
open. Please park to the right of the showroom, down in front of the
service bays, there is plenty of room.  We have a meeting room in the back
and to the left in the showroom building.  Someone will be in the showroom
to show you where the meeting is. We shouldn't run past 8:30PM. If you know
of anyone else who might be interested, and not on the newsgroup, please
pass the word along and or bring them with ya.  There are 35 current
members in the club.  There is a wide variety of Oldsmobiles represented,
add yours to the list.  We will be finalizing items for the upcoming show,
stuffing goodie bags, discuss other local events, Sept. Cruise Nite events
planning and whatever else comes up.  Anyone who joins this year will be
considered a Charter Member.  Anyone interested in joining, or know of
someone who might be interested, drop me some e-mail.  I have directions to
the meeting.  If you plan on coming, please e-mail me so we have a head
count for refreshments.  There will be a deli tray for anyone who misses
dinner at their house.
==========================================================
 ---
| | | Brad Nicholson
| | | 1987 442 W-42
|/|\| 1994 Eighty Eight LSS
| | | Oldsmobile Club of America ª18984
 ---  Oldsmobile Centennial Club, Newest Chapter of OCA
(W) brad.nicholson@ssa.gov   (H) brad442@erols.com
OCC Web Page - http://www.erols/com/brad442/occ
OCA Web Page - http://www.erols/com/brad442/oca

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 16:12:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: DATIC@aol.com
Subject: Re: MUFFLERS

     I have to agree with Mr. P. about the Walker Dynomax Super turbo
muffler.
One is on the Dynamic and it has a nice subtle rumble at idle; just enough to
give the car an"attitude". I like cars with a little attitude. However there
are different sizes
and inlet/outlet configurations, so they won't all sound exactly the same.

     Dave T. (yay about SB-42!)
     1966 Dynamic 88 conv. (cannot stop grinning like an idiot while driving
it!)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 16:37:09 -0400 (EDT)
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine Shipping Costs

Amtrak is the best way to ship an engine.  I'm in San Pedro (LA harbor) and
have shipped and had shipped to me via this route with great pricing. A few
provisos!
The motor must be clean and dry or boxed so they can't tell it's a used
engine---they won't let you ship it if it might leak.  The  box or pallet
must be delivered to the terminal, and will need to be picked up at the
terminal of delivery-it won't come to your door.
Cost is per weight, and a 455 (600ª ?) will cost more than the BMW/MB engines
I've shipped in the past, but Ive always found this way to be the cheapest.
Example;
BMW 4-cyl from Denver $125,  MB 6cyl from Portland to LA $145.  Call a
trucking line--when you're sitting down!--and see what they want for similar.
 Avg. quote$500

FYI
Coupe King

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 15:48:19 -0500
From: Cheryl Sarafin <csarafin@eagle1.net>
Subject: RE: Rare 88s and 98s

Paul,

How about production ª's on an 1983 Regency coupe?  I can't seem to find out
much of anything about this specific model.

Thanks

Jason Beres
jberes@datamine.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 16:51:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: Brothers question

Hello! I was wondering if anyone has ever ordered stripes from Brothers for a
rallye350? To BROTHERS: How much does it cost for the stripes? What does it
include? I already have the two that say RALLYE350 in the back. What I need
are the ones for the hood and the sides. What kind of stripes are they? If I
buy the car I will come right to you guys for the stripes! My last question
is for anyone. Do 442 parts fit a rallye350? Thanks!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 17:39:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: dualgate question

I'm looking at a rallye350 with an automatic trans on the floor. It has a
console. My question is would I be able to put in a dual gate? Does anyone
out there know where I can find a good dualgate? Has anyone ever done this
before? Thanks!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 17:21:42 -0500
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: '70 Olds 442

> Its right now in a rusting primer
> gray.  If I want to get rid of the rust quick
> Thank for your replies,
> Ed
> '65 Triumph Spitfire (For Sale!)  <== Buy it and the 442 get a garage
> space!
> '70 Olds 442
> '83 Buick Rivera

Extend works very good it comes in a spray can at about $4 a can you'd need
at least a dozen cans. A more cost effective product is Rust-Mort by Sem
products. When I bought some about 5 years ago from a automotive paint
store it was a little under $10 for a quart and around $15-20 for a gallon.
You can spray or brush it on. Both will turn the rust black when they have
done their jobs.

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 18:37:41 -0400 (EDT)
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: Brothers question

Hello! I was wondering if anyone has ever ordered stripes from Brothers for a
rallye350? To BROTHERS: How much does it cost for the stripes? What does it
include? I already have the two that say RALLYE350 in the back. What I need
are the ones for the hood and the sides. What kind of stripes are they? If I
buy the car I will come right to you guys for the stripes! My last question
is for anyone. Do 442 parts fit a rallye350? Thanks!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 19:48:17 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Rare 88s and 98s

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:Cheryl Sarafin <csarafin@eagle1.net>
Subject: RE: Rare 88s and 98s
Date:Mon, 8 Sep 1997 15:48:19 -0500

Paul,

How about production ª's on an 1983 Regency coupe?  I can't seem to find out
much of anything about this specific model.

Thanks

Jason Beres
jberes@datamine.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 17:49:34 -0500
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: pre 71 455 cores

>     The only problem I've had now is locating a good starting place.
> According to everything I've read, 455 cores are "cheap and plentiful".
> This doesn't seem to be the case.  Even Mondello says that the heads (A,
> B, and C) are difficult to find.
>     Does anyone have any help or advice they can offer?  I am REALLY
> itching to get my Cutlass back on the road :)
>
>     Thanks again, for everything,
>
> John Ramsey
> jramsey@mail.utexas.edu (UT Austin)
> '69 Cutlass S (almost a 455...)

Try going to out of the way junk yards the ones that are out in the middle
of no where. The local yards that are around town usually have nothing that
old but if I drive 45 minutes I can get to two yards that have about 10
'65-'70 425 and 455 engines and about 5 or 6 330 and 350 engines. I have
yet to find a 400 though.

 Get a phone book for a area that doesn't have any good size cities and
look in it for a junk yard. Even if it means driving to nowhere to look at
a phone book. They are out there you just got to do some looking.

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 19:49:26 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Re: Bogging?

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date:Mon, 08 Sep 1997 11:14:33 -0700
From:"Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <sparks@nfs.aisf.com>
Subject: Re: Bogging?

Hi all,

When I drive to work in the morning and my DRB is basically cold,
when I accelerated in "D" the car sort of bogs down as if it has no
power.  If I drive the car, like I normally do, like a stick and shift
from 1 to 2 to 3 myself I don't get that bog.  Any clues?

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 18:46:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: CarrDuff@aol.com
Subject: Re: dualgate question

In a message dated 97-09-08 18:08:54 EDT, you write:

<< Subj:dualgate question
 Date:97-09-08 18:08:54 EDT
 From:DROLDS350@aol.com

 I'm looking at a rallye350 with an automatic trans on the floor. It has a
 console. My question is would I be able to put in a dual gate? Does anyone
 out there know where I can find a good dualgate? Has anyone ever done this
 before? Thanks!
  >>


  I'm suprised the ralley 350 doesn't come with a dual gate.  All 70-72
consoles can be used for any application, standard auto shifter, dual gate
auto shifter and even a manual stick.  If you flip the console upside down
you will notice score lines that can be broken off to accomadate any shifter.
 Just follow the lines and sand any rough edges that remain.  I have already
done this to allow the use of a dual gate shifter.

  Check out hemmings for a dual gate shifter.  I see Brothers Auto has them
in thier book, or perhaps someone on this list may have one to sell.  Just
make sure it comes with all the mounting brackets.

Steve Dietrich
  S/E PA
    71 442 W30 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 18:35:24 -0500
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: Unusual Heads

>      Well, I just changed the valve covers on the 1966-vintage 400
>      imagine my surprize when I discovered that my motor has the
three-part
>      rocker arm pivots!
>
>      As careful readers will recall, only the 1965 "A" heads are thought
to
>      use the three-part pivots.
>
>      I haven't determined yet if the
>      rocker studs are the 3/8" size of the "A" heads or the later 5/16".
In
>      any case, if this were a factory arrangement it throws a little
curve
>      into the data in the FAQ.
>
>      Joe Padavano
>      padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>      66 442
>      68 W-30
>      69 H/O
>      70 W-30
>

I have 4 pairs of A heads and 1 pair of B heads

Two pairs of A heads have 3/8 studs with 3 piece fulcrums
One pair of A head has is on a complete engine and I don't feel like
pulling the valve covers because it will more than likely be the same as
the first two heads.
Last pair A heads have Harland Sharp aluminum roller rockers (very rare
option :) )

The B heads have 5/16 stud with 1 piece fulcrum.

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 20:37:09 -0400
From: "Eric T. Brubakken" <ebrubak@ix13.ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: MUFFLERS

Erik Nowacki wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
>         I need some advice on mufflers.  A couple of months ago I put a 
couple
of > Flowtech Terminators on my VC and it sounded OK.  I recently replaced the 
>
tired old stock 455 with a rebuilt one and the car is now LOUD.  The > current
engine is a 455 with 9.5 compression, a Mondello 20-22 cam and an > Edelbrock
Performer intake.  The cam and/or compression increase really > bumped the
decibels at the other end.  Now the neighbors are up in arms > when I warm it 
up
at 7 am to go to work and, more importantly, my financial > expert is not happy
with the loudness. > >         Solution:  Get new, quieter, mufflers. > >
Advice needed:  Has anyone had any experience with the 3 chamber > Flowmasters,
Borlas or other type/brand when hooked up behind a similarly > modified 455? > 
>
BTW, i am using the stock dual exhaust manifolds, W and Z. > > Thanks in
advance for any input. > > Erik Nowacki > San Diego > 72 Vista Cruiser (LOUD)

I am running the 3 chamber FlowMasters on my 67 Cutlass with a 455,
hooker headers, mild cam, etc.  I was concerned about noise when I had
the mufflers installed.  The muffler shop install 2.5 pipes from the
collectors to the rear bumper, including a balance tube just after the
transmission.  My fear of excessive noise was unfounded.  The Cutlass
just has a nice deep sound to it at idle and crusing.  I have the same 3
chamber setup on a 1970 GMC truck (350) and it IS loud.  I had to put
resonator tips on the truck to get the noise level back down.  I can't
explain why the Cutlass is quieter than the GMC ( maybe the balance tube
has something to do with it?)

Anyway, just for you info

Eric Brubakken

ebrubak@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 21:09:45 -0700
From: "J. Michael Wolfe" <boogah@en.com>
Subject: Re: advice on purchasing '70 442

W30442CS@aol.com wrote:
>
> ed, i deal in 68-72 442,olds,cutlass,ect.  i have good 70 442 rear bumper
> (core), need a 71-72 442 rear bumper,  if you get the car how about a trade?,
>  steven.  w30442cs@aol.com
I am planning on restoring the vehicle and am keeping it original.
Thanks though, I will keep my eyes open.
Joe Boogah@en.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 21:11:41 -0700
From: "J. Michael Wolfe" <boogah@en.com>
Subject: Re: advice on purchasing '70 442

W30442CS@aol.com wrote:
>
> ps,  thats not a bad price for the car, if you don`t keep it, even the parts
> on it should be worth the purchase price.    steven. w30442cs@aol.com
I thought it was a good deal.  A new paint job and it would look like
new.  I wish it had the 4V carb though. You wouln not have a 4V
aircleaner assy for a 72 would you? Carb, manifold??
Joe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 22:20:39 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Re: Mufflers

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:"Eric T. Brubakken" <ebrubak@ix13.ix.netcom.com>

I am running the 3 chamber FlowMasters on my 67 Cutlass with a 455,
hooker headers, mild cam, etc.  I was concerned about noise when I had
the mufflers installed.  The muffler shop install 2.5 pipes from the
collectors to the rear bumper, including a balance tube just after the
transmission.  My fear of excessive noise was unfounded.  The Cutlass
just has a nice deep sound to it at idle and crusing.  I have the same 3
chamber setup on a 1970 GMC truck (350) and it IS loud.  I had to put
resonator tips on the truck to get the noise level back down.  I can't
explain why the Cutlass is quieter than the GMC ( maybe the balance tube
has something to do with it?)

Anyway, just for you info

Eric Brubakken

ebrubak@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 20:27:12 -0500
From: David Jennings <djenn@flash.net>
Subject: Performance information????

Is there a magazine about performance Oldsmobiles? I've seen Chevy, Ford,
Mopar and Pontiac magazines, but none for Olds. Any information appreciated.
Trying to decide what late '60's/early 70's model to purchase. Took my wife
of 18 years on our first date in a 70 Supreme. Nostalgia reigns.
djenn@flash.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 21:36:06 -0400
From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
Subject: Re: Engine tuning

Wayne Schwartz wrote:
>
> A friend of mine recently bought a 70 442 and is in the process of
> restoring it.  The 455 engine has a radical cam, specs unknown....but
> its pretty lumpy.  The manifold vaccum is quite low.  The power brakes
> have "no power".  Its got the original carb which appears to have been
> rebuilt.  The previous owner claimed he changed jets (he has since
> moved, no other info available).  He (mechanic) had recently rebuilt the
> engine to drag.  The 442 bogs down on hard acceleration from a standing
> start and then recovers. Its also really hard to start and starts only
> after pumping the gas pedal 20-30 times.  It appears that raw gas is
> exhausted from the tail pipe on initial start up and it runs really
> rough before smoothing out. Since neither of us are skilled mechanics,
> the car has visited a number of area garages in an attempt to solve the
> carburation problem.  No success but lots of frustration and $$$$ spent.
> Any advice as to where to go from here or what the problem is likely to
> be. We want to maintain the original carb.  We are considering sending
> the carb for a rebuild and return to original specs.  Looking forward to
> hearing from from all the talent out there.

Hey guys, I got very little response on the weekend concerning the
problem my Olds buddy is having.  Anyone want to point him in the right
direction.  I think he's about to fire a few shots at it with his
shotgun.....we wounldn't want to ruin a perfectly good 442 would we.
Wayne

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 21:26:47 -0700
From: "J. Michael Wolfe" <boogah@en.com>
Subject: Re: Carburetor number

Robert Barry wrote:
>
> >Re: Carburetor number
> >>From the '71 chassis service manual:
> >
> >               350
> >               2 Bbl
> >               V-8
> >
> >Net SAE HP     160@
> >               4000
>
> >Interesting that you stated above the '72 350-2V was rated at 175hp
> >which is 15hp more than the '71!  Who says the factory didn't play with
> >the numbers???
>
> Hmmm, maybe the bigger exhaust valves on the '72's did boost power after
> all! The '71 definitely had the smaller exhaust valves, but the same-sized
> intake valves.
>
> Oh, and I checked the carb ª for the '72 350 2-bbl: it is indeed 7042156.
> The only difference from the '71 version would be the leaner main jet, a
> "51" rather than a "54", which was used in the 2-bbl carb for manual
> transmission applications in both years (carb ªs 7041155 and 7042155). I'm
> sure this is really more than you wanted to know...  ;)
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
That is exactly what I wanted to know. I greatly appreciate your help.
The carb number was the last piece that I could not confirm on the
vehicle. Thanks Much.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 21:40:08 -0700
From: "J. Michael Wolfe" <boogah@en.com>
Subject: Re: Carburetor number

Kurt Heinrich wrote:
>
> Robert Barry wrote:
> >
> > >I need clarification on the difference between the "Net Horsepower"
> > >rating used beginning for the 72 model year and the previous method
> > >("Gross Method??) that was used prior to 72. Is there a big difference
> > >in the performance of the 350 olds engine from 71 to 72?  For example,
> > >the HP rating for the 71 350 2V  single exhaust is 240 , and the same
> > >configuration for the 72 is 175 .  Are the engines basically the same
> > >with the only difference being the different rating methods, or are
> > >there other considerations also.
>
> <snip>
>
> > In fact, didn't GM release both Gross and Net ratings for their '71 
engines?
> > That would reveal the similarities and differences. The Net rating is the 
hp
> > from the engine running as it would installed in a car, with water pump,
> > accessories, full exhaust, etc, whereas the Gross rating may or may not 
have
> > involved such items, and was performed based on a more favorable 
atmospheric
> > standard (cooler air temp etc).
>
> >From the '71 chassis service manual:
>
>                 250     350     350     455     455     455     455
>                 1 Bbl   2 Bbl   4 Bbl   2 Bbl   4 Bbl   4 Bbl   4 Bbl
>                 L-6     V-8     V-8     V-8     V-8     V-8     V-8
>                                                         442     Toronado
>
> Comp Ratio      8.0:1   8.5:1   8.5:1   8.5:1   8.5:1   8.5:1   8.5:1
>
> Net SAE HP      110@    160@    180@    185@    225@    270@    275@
>                 3800    4000    4000    3600    3600    4400    4200
>
> Gross BHP       145@    240@    260@    280@    320@    340@    350@
>                 4200    4200    4600    4000    4400    4600    4400
>
> Bore            3.87    4.0574  4.057   4.125   4.125   4.125   4.125
> Stroke          3.53    3.385   3.385   4.25    4.25    4.25    4.25
>
> Interesting that you stated above the '72 350-2V was rated at 175hp
> which is 15hp more than the '71!  Who says the factory didn't play with
> the numbers???
> --
> Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
> 71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
My goof, the 72 HP rating for 2V 350 is indeed 160 Net. Thanks for info

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 22:02:48 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Rare 88s and 98s

Greg Beaulieu wrote:

> How about production ª's on an 1983 Regency coupe?  I can't seem to find out
much of anything about this specific model.

> Jason Beres

Jason,

I used to have one of these.  It was actually a winter beater so I could
keep my convertible in the garage.  If I were smart I'd have stored the
98 for the winter and driven the convertible instead.  My was white,
with a white landau roof and an oxblood leather interior.  It had
matching maroon stripes and bodyside moldings and had the obligatory
coach lamps and wire wheel covers.  Its one of the best looking cars
I've owned.  Its too bad that it wasn't better equipped.  My '85 Royale
had a lot more toys.  Last time I checked the 98 was registered in
Detroit.

Production was 13,816.

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 22:13:17 -0400
From: Nick <naugens@exis.net>
Subject: Parts wanted

Am looking for right headlight bezel for 71 442.  Also need green plastic
steering wheel with standard padded center for same.  Anyone know of their
availability in the Norfolk, Va. area?

Nick

71 442
71 442-W30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 22:39:52 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: SSI

Sorry for a late response I had a swamp meet

I'ld like $250.00 Canadian

Bob

- ----------
> From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: SSI
> Date: Wednesday, September 03, 1997 11:51 PM
>
> How much are you asking for these?  I've got a set of 5 SSII wheels but
I'd
> prefer the SSI.
>
>
> Lisa Madsen
> Anaheim, CA
>
> My cars & their alias'
> '66 Toronado (LA Woman)
> '67 Delta 88 Custom  (Tizzy)
> '69 Toronado (Toro II)
> '72 Vista Cruiser (VC)
>
> Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com
>
> My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/
>
> Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
> Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 21:44:55 -0500
From: Jeremy Enos <j-enos@students.uiuc.edu>
Subject: Overhauling 455...  Am I crazy?

Hi-
I'm a newbie, and I need help.  I've been driving a 1976 '98 for several
years now, and it's just been the best car I could dream of having.  The
time has come where the body is falling to pieces, but mechanically, it's
never had a problem.  I'm especially attached to it's 455.  So attached,
that I want to continue it's life in a 1977 '98 that happens to have a good
body.
I've already found out that the engine mounts are different, but a conversion
is available.  The motor has about 160,000 on it, so I figure this would also
be a good opportunity to overhaul it.  Someone told me that it could cost
around $1800 to do that.  But, it gets worse.  Having the power obsession
that I do, I want to check into the feasibility of adding a turbo at the
same time.  That would be more $$$ of course, but I have no idea how much.
That's where I was hoping to get an answer here.

Also, does anyone know what year the first (automatic) overdrive transmission
as used in an Olds?  Can it be transferred to a 1977 '98?  This would be my
dream vehicle, because I think it would be much more reasonable with fuel.
Most mechanics just refuse, most friends just laugh.  Am I crazy?  So I'm in
love-  How much can it cost me?  Thanks for your help!

Jeremy

Here it is... not much to look at for some, but I love this car!
http://www.students.uiuc.edu/%7Ej-enos/olds.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 17:52:33 -0500
From: theogns <theogns@avana.net>
Subject: Re: pre 71 455 cores

> >    Does anyone have any help or advice they can offer?  I am REALLY
> >itching to get my Cutlass back on the road :)
>
> I think your best bet might be to buy a whole '68-'74 Delta 88, 98 or
> ideally a Toronado and just pull the motor out of that; you can probably
> pick up a car for not that much more than an engine alone (got my '68 Toro
> donor for $300, and sold it w/o engine for $150), and you might actually be
> able to sell parts from the shell before having it towed off to the crusher.

The only problem is getting the correct valve covers. That is if you are
going for correctness.

Danny

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª839
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