
oldsmobile-digest       Monday, December 1 1997       Volume 01 : Number 980



Compression test (was breather elements)
Compression
Supremes vs Salons
Advice after engine removal?
Re: Compression test (was breather elements)
Re: Compression
Re: stroker?
69 H/O
private sales
81 Toronado Exhaust System
checking
Re: Compression test (was breather elements)
Re: 69' Deluxe Steering Wheel
Re: Compression test (was breather elements)
Re: Compression test (was breather elements)
Re: checking
Re: 69' Deluxe Steering Wheel
Re: EGR question
Re: Advice after engine removal?
Re: Read end oil capacity
Re: Advice after engine removal?
Re: Compression
Metric > Imperial (long)
Re: Compression test (was breather elements)
EGR Valve Changing
Re: Mobil 1
307/350 eng. swap
Re: stroker?
Re: EGR Valve Changing
Re: EGR Valve Changing
Re: EGR Valve Changing
Re: 69 H/O
Re: 81 Toronado Exhaust System
Re: stroker?
Re: Pictures of Mondello parts available...
Re: 81 Toronado Exhaust System
Re: Olds Rockets and Stangs.......and the 86 442???...
Re: all you "G" body fans
Re: Olds Rockets and Stangs.......and the 86 442???...
Re: 69' Deluxe Steering Wheel
Engine Swap
Re: 69' Deluxe Steering Wheel
found lansing...
[none]
Olds 403 Engine Swap
How do I get out of here?
Re: Engine Swap
Re: checking
"GM BLOOD"
Re: Mondello 350DX (diesel to gas) stroker motor parts for sale!
g-body carb question
86 CS Steering Box
The last thing I say about radiators (was Re: My Slant on Recent Subjects)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 12:00:26 -0500
From: "deirdre. reilly" <102724.635@compuserve.com>
Subject: Compression test (was breather elements)

Hey everyone,

First off I'd like to thank everyone for their suggestions so far,
espesially Tom Lentz.

So I Finally got to do some more research on the problems with my '83
Ciera.

Tom suggested checking the PCV valve again and the thermac flapper, both
those check out OK.  Next he suggested a compression test, so I went out
and purchased a compression tester.  Here's the results from that:

Cylinder 1: 150 psi
Cylinder 2: 160 psi
Cylinder 3: 150 psi
Cylinder 4: 155 psi

I know that the Compression Ratio for this engine is supposed to be 8.2:1
How does the psi figures match up with what the CR ratio is supposed to be?
I can't seem to find a conversion equation for these.  Also the CR is
supposed to be within 10% of each other,  all the values I got are really
close to each other, so that seems good, unless they are uniformly shot to
h*ll.

Also checked my spark plugs with the usefull color spark plug diagnosis
chart in my Haynes manual.  They seem to be mostly normal with some slight
resemblance to the too hot or carbon deposits pictures.  The carbon buildup
symptoms match what I been experiencing "Cuases...hard starting and
hesitation"

Any further help/suggestions will be greatly appreciated.  And where to
next if the compression test checks out OK?

Thanks again,

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme
'83 Cutlass Ciera

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 12:20:01 -0800
From: Boogah Wolfe <boogah@en.com>
Subject: Compression

Please excuse my lack of knowledge, but hey I'm here to learn to...

Is there a way to increase the compression ratio on a 72 Olds 350
engine? 
My first guess would be a head swap along with pistons.  Would I be
correct thus far?

The reason I sak is that I am going to be  rebuilding  my engine and
would like to improve its performance while I have it apart.  Any advice
or stories of experience with this sort of nonsense would be greatly
appreciated!!

Thanks

Joe
72 Cutlass Supreme
62112 miles
Parma OH

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 12:35:53 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Supremes vs Salons

> >         I was always under the impression that the Cutlass Salon was the
> > "sportier" model with the Supreme being the "classy" one.  Am I very
> You are right, it's all in perception...  I look at the Salon as being
> the "Classy" one, and the Supreme as the "Base" model.  Class being
> added by gauges, and buckets, and consoles, vs, Bench seats and Column
> Shifts.  <G>
> (except the rear windows and the Ghia emblem) much like the Salon, which
> to my knowledge, you couldn't get a "Salon" emblem on a "Supreme"...  Is
> there any other options not allowed, or sold on the Supreme?

        I'm not personally sure on this one...maybe someone who knew more
about the original options might....for example, was a complete ralley gauge
package available in the Supremes?  I've got the Brougham and it has the
big-ass fuel gauge with idiot lights (make that HAD, thanx to a nice set of
Eqqus gauges - and I'm thinking about implanting 5" AutoMeters into the dash,
having it look as neat/clean as possible - there's a REALLY cool set right
from GM, you can tell they're AutoMeters from the obvious styling, but they
have black backs with the white Olds logo on 'em!).  I actually haven't ever
seen a GM A-body of this vintage ('73-'77) having a gauge package from the
factory (I know they existed, but it just goes to show how rare they are).  I
wouldn't mind getting my hands on some sorta GM document showing what options
were available with each model.  That'd be cool.
- --
Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
Rat-Powered '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
mailto:lee@mergetel.com
Niagara Falls, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 12:36:00 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Advice after engine removal?

After we yank this 350 and TH350 out on Friday, is there any advice on
what to do after we've pulled it? It's going to be hauled to an engine
shop and put on a stand. The reason we have to take the transmission
with it is that the bolts are stuck on the flywheel and trans, (couldn't
even get 'em loose with an impact wrench!). Are there any precautions I
should take when hauling it, besides draining the fludids and making
sure it doesn't roll?
- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 12:45:07 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Re: Compression test (was breather elements)

> those check out OK.  Next he suggested a compression test, so I went out
> and purchased a compression tester.  Here's the results from that:
> Cylinder 1: 150 psi
> Cylinder 2: 160 psi
> Cylinder 3: 150 psi
> Cylinder 4: 155 psi
> I know that the Compression Ratio for this engine is supposed to be 8.2:1
> How does the psi figures match up with what the CR ratio is supposed to be?
> I can't seem to find a conversion equation for these.  Also the CR is
> supposed to be within 10% of each other,  all the values I got are really
> close to each other, so that seems good, unless they are uniformly shot to
> h*ll.

Bill,
        I did a compression test on my '76 305ci in my Monte Carlo the year
before last.  It's factory compression ratio was said to be 8.0:1.  The figures
I got were all between 135 and 150 psi.  I'd say your engine is showing good
signs of upholding it's compression.  And you know you're not having head
gasket problems because there aren't two cylinders beside one another showing
weak compression.  That would tell you that compression was leaking across the
head gasket surface between two cylinders.  I think it's safe to say that your
engine is performing as it should (provided other things such as your carb, etc
are tuned properly, of course).
        I too been unsuccessful in finding some sort of formula to convert psi
in a compression test to compression ratio.  That would be very handy, so if
anyone out there knows of such a formula, please pass it on!
- --
Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
Rat-Powered '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
mailto:lee@mergetel.com
Niagara Falls, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 12:54:27 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Re: Compression

> Is there a way to increase the compression ratio on a 72 Olds 350
> engine?
> My first guess would be a head swap along with pistons.  Would I be
>
> The reason I ask is that I am going to be  rebuilding  my engine and
> would like to improve its performance while I have it apart.  Any advice
> or stories of experience with this sort of nonsense would be greatly
> appreciated!!

        Yes, Joe, you are right about needing different pistons, and perhaps
different heads.  It all depends upon the compression ratio you want to end
up with.  If you go to your local speed shop you could ask the guy there to
see what kinda pistions are available for the Oldsie 350 and he can show you
what volume cylinder heads you'd need to get the desired comp. ratio.  Who
knows, maybe there might even be a set of pistions to get what you want with
the heads you've got - certainly would be the economic way to do it.  You
might have to go with dome pistions if you have large combustion chambered
heads, otherwise some flat-tops could get you up as high as 10.0:1 or
thereabouts.  But you definately have to know what the volume of your
cylinder heads are before you order your pistions.  I've got an article
about this with a procedure for determining the volume of cylinder heads on
my webpage:  http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/  Look under the tech
articles section.
        Hope this helps, Joe!
- --
Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
Rat-Powered '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
mailto:lee@mergetel.com
Niagara Falls, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 13:19:30 -0500 (EST)
From: ea154@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Josh J. Haviland)
Subject: Re: stroker?

Reply to message from wittchri@pilot.msu.edu of Sat, 29 Nov
>
>dont know about the rest of ya, but, i go out to the garage at least once a
>week and stroke my olds's.  Chris Matthes
>====================
>
>That's too funny!
>A whole new meaning to "polishing one's Rocket!"
>
>--
>Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
>*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
>
>
   Hi, I seem to remember a conversation on the list awhile back involving
this, like the possibilities of destroking a 455 into a 445 or so, i think
that  would make a nice motor for the street, if anyone has any ideas on
how to do that I would give it a go when the money is here for it :) (AKA:
after my 350 is done) but what about destroking a 350? maybe around 330 or
so ci? I would love to have a 330 but have seen none around anywhere since
oldses don't seem to get into junkyards around here by cleveland :) but
other than that, I stroke my olds daily also
- -josh
'70 delta 88
'72 4-4-2
'87 supreme

- --
__/////////\  Budgreen, ea154@cleveland.freenet.edu  /\\\\\\\\\__             
  \\\\\\\\\/      Josh......                         \/////////
=================================================================

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 13:38:59 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: 69 H/O

Date: Sat, 29 Nov 1997 15:29:34 -0800
From: "D. Woodley" <purchud@direct.ca>
Subject: 69 Hurst Oldsmobile Cutlus Supreme

 My friend Russ just acquired what is touted to be a 69 Hurst Olds.
I was wondering if your vast group would have the know how to decipher the VIN
#
 to confirm the vehicles true identity and valitity of options on the vehicle.
A
ny info on areas of concern; being rust on said model would be helpful. I will
g
ive you the vin it may be easier to decipher than to explain.
VIN#  3368791104079
- -----------------------------
the VIN indicates a Cutlass, not a 442. Series 3687... The 1 after the 9  says
built in Canada. I thought H/O's were based on 442's [series 44xx] and were all
                             built in Lansing [M where the 1 is there]

- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 13:45:58 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: private sales

Date: Sat, 29 Nov 1997 12:34:44 -0500 (EST)
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: trade or not to trade....

 tom, i am very interested in gage, and tach,  let's do something on the tape
 deck and some cash.. or on the ss 1 caps....
    olds guy....
- ------------------------------
Yeah, yeah, fine, take it outside, eh, gemtlemen?

This is like the 15th HINT in the last couple weeks. Rather than send your
private transactions to the whole list, take the time, learn how if you have
to, and send such to the person involved ONLY. OK?

Take this hint? This time for sure?

Don't go away mad or anything, just take your personal sales chat to private
channels.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 05:42:46 -0500
From: "Kerr, Brian (R)" <kerrb@basf-corp.com>
Subject: 81 Toronado Exhaust System

     I am considering the purchase of a 1981 Toronado as a daily driver (aka 
 - winter beater). It needs the exhaust system from the manifold to tailpipe. 
I checked with 'Canadian Tire' an automotive, hardware, housewares retailer, 
and they have indicated that the 'Y pipe' is not listed for this vehicle. Is 
there a 'Y pipe' on this model, or just a crossover pipe from manifold to 
manifold. If I have to get one fabricated, I would probably reconsider the 
purchase, as the rest of the parts for the system would run about $200 Can, 
not including the catalytic converter. Does the converter or any other 
exhaust part interchange with any other car that I may find at the junque 
yarde?

Havent seen the car yet, so this all may be a bit premature.

Brian Kerr
69 Cutlass Conv
Cambridge, Ontario

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 15:45:38 -0500 (EST)
From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Subject: checking

testing one two three

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 15:14:23 -0600
From: "Tracy H. Shires" <twodogs@ou.edu>
Subject: Re: Compression test (was breather elements)

>        I too been unsuccessful in finding some sort of formula to convert
psi
>in a compression test to compression ratio.  That would be very handy, so if
>anyone out there knows of such a formula, please pass it on!
>--
>Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
>Rat-Powered '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
>http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
>mailto:lee@mergetel.com
>Niagara Falls, Canada


I asked this question a while back, I can't remember the reasoning, but
they said that their isn't a formula b/c the two aren't related. Whoever I
talked to said there are too many other factors involved to make any kind
of accurate comparison between the two.. I genuinely wish their was a
formula though...



T. H. Shires			81 Rckt 350
Norman, Ok

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 15:57:22 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: 69' Deluxe Steering Wheel

Russell,

If by deluxe, you mean a sporty type wheel as opposed to one w/only a horn
button for decoration, then this not true.  The 4-spoke sporty one is a 1970
& up model.  The sporty one for 1969 is vinyl coated w/wood grain inserts in
the 3 spokes & a woodgrain center cap w/rocket emblem inside that.  The
woodgrain matches the woodgrain on the dash.  They came in various colors.

Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
Decatur, Alabama
'62 Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 convertible


>I am trying to find a deluxe steering wheel for my 69' 442.
>Frank in Florida says the deluxe steering wheel is the same from 69' - 72'
and
>They only came in black.  Is this true?
>
>rgbaker@wt.net
>" If it's worth doing.  Then do it right ! "
>Russ
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 17:04:50 -0500 (EST)
From: DocOlds723@aol.com
Subject: Re: Compression test (was breather elements)

> I too been unsuccessful in finding some sort of formula to convert psi
> in a compression test to compression ratio.  That would be very handy, so
if
> anyone out there knows of such a formula, please pass it on!

  There is no way to directly convert CR to cranking cylinder pressure. The
cranking cylinder pressure is heavily dependant on valve timing. For example,
my race motor is 14.6:1 CR and I can tune it anywhere from 150 psi to 210 psi
depending on how I want to run it merely by changing the timing of the
camshaft.

   Dave

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 97 17:15:31 EST
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: Compression test (was breather elements)

 so I went out
>and purchased a compression tester.  Here's the results from that:
>
>Cylinder 1: 150 psi
>Cylinder 2: 160 psi
>Cylinder 3: 150 psi
>Cylinder 4: 155 psi
>
>I know that the Compression Ratio for this engine is supposed to be 8.2:1
>How does the psi figures match up with what the CR ratio is supposed to be?
>I can't seem to find a conversion equation for these.  

   Your compression test looks fine.  Cylinder pressure and compression
ratio aren't too comparable...like apples and oranges.   Pressure is built
in the cylinders but isn't determined by the compression _ratio_.  Let me
know which heads are on your 350 and we can see how much you can up the
compression ratio by just shaving the heads without pulling the block apart
or replacing pistons etc.  Don't know how far you want to build or how much
you plan on spending on your motor....

  Glenn
  '69 4-4-2 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 17:21:09 -0500 (EST)
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: Re: checking

your test is going fine, everett...
 
    will ck the lansing web site.. thanks olds guy....

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 17:31:02 -0500 (EST)
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: Re: 69' Deluxe Steering Wheel

 that strg wheel came in a lot of colors,red,gn,blue,blk..

  i have one from a 72 in blk....

  olds guy.....

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 17:32:28 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: EGR question

Erik Badzinski wrote:

>>>Sorry, I am still learning, so why is running the engine lean not the
>>>best thing? 

When an engine is running at the ideal (stochiometric) mixture (14.7:1
by weight), this means that the engine is deriving as much power from
the fuel as possible without the engine running lean.  During normal
operation, the incoming fuel/air mixture is used to help cool the
combustion chamber.  When there's not enough fuel in the mixture, the
chamber won't be cooled enough, and it'll run hot.

Detonation is when the engine knocks or pings, to make a long story a
short one.  When a cylinder pings, it sounds like a marble is rattling
around inside the cylinder.  This noise is caused by two flame kernels
exploding against each other during ignition.  This creates extreme heat
as well, and can either melt a piston or blow a hole through the head.

If your plug tips are light grey or white, your engine is running lean,
and should be richened up.  If you leave running lean, it'll give you
decent power on minimal amounts of fuel, but you'll be calling around
for a used engine when the pistons and block are fused together.

- ---------------------------------------- 
S. Dave Ward   mailto:ward@ptbo.igs.net 

'78 Delta 88 (350 4bbl.)
'85 Delta 88 (307 4bbl.)
'91 GMC Sierra 4x4 (305 TBI)

(Ennismore, Ontario, CANADA)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 16:41:43 -0600
From: JR <joertexas@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Advice after engine removal?

Matt Cremean wrote:
> 
> After we yank this 350 and TH350 out on Friday, is there any advice on
> what to do after we've pulled it? It's going to be hauled to an engine
> shop and put on a stand. 

Be sure to replace every pump on the engine while you have it out. It
cost me about $100 in labor to learn this. The oil pump wasn't any good
on mine, even though it looked okay. When we ran the engine, it would
hold oil pressure. It's cheap insurance to replace the pumps.

JR

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 17:51:08 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: Read end oil capacity

Proietto, Fernando [Ontario] wrote:
 
>>>Actually I looked in the chassis manual again this morning and it's 4.25
>>>pints for a 10 bolt cover and 5.5 for a 12 bolt cover diff. Dave you
>>>understood my confusion right away. Does the chassis manual report
>>>capacities in American standard for use the Imperial British standard?

Hmm..to tough to call.  I've never actually flipped through a chassis
manual before in my life, but I'd lay odds that it's listed in U.S.
units.  (I've now learned that it's the U.S. gallon that's 3.78L).  

Which cover do you have?  A pint is equal to 475ml (approx.), so if
you're using the 10 bolt, it should be around 2020mL, or 2.02 litres. 
If you're using the 12 bolt diff cover, it'll be about 2.61 litres.  

I've only changed a rear end oil once, and I was given these
instructions:  just fill it through the inspection hole to capacity,
then remove the funnel tip, and observe how much drains out.  If it's
just a trickle (or none at all), keep filling, and then check it again. 
If it flows out at a decent rate, just put the plug back in and call it
a day.

I'm not sure if that's the G.M. mechanic's version, or the Shadetree
mechanic version.  I serviced the open rear end in my '78 Delta this
way, and it hasn't complained at all (knock on wood!).  I'm not 100%
sure if it's different for a posi or lim-slip rear end.

- ------------------------------------------ 
S. Dave Ward   mailto:ward@ptbo.igs.net 

'78 Delta 88 (350 4bbl.)
'85 Delta 88 (307 4bbl.)
'91 GMC Sierra 4x4 (305 TBI)

(Ennismore, Ontario, CANADA)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 97 18:06:26 EST
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: Advice after engine removal?

At 12:36 PM 11/30/97 -0500, you wrote:
>After we yank this 350 and TH350 out on Friday, is there any advice on
>what to do after we've pulled it? 


   This is the best time to degrease, clean, paint and detail the whole
engine compartment.  

    
    Glenn
    '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 97 18:07:07 EST
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: Compression

At 12:20 PM 11/30/97 -0800, you wrote:
>Please excuse my lack of knowledge, but hey I'm here to learn to...

  Don't apologize for _any_ lack of knowledge....not at all necessary here.
We all learn from one or the other. One of our major sources, other than
polling this list, is the FAQ that was put together by a number of real good
people on this list along with the many contributors here.
REMEMBER---everyone knows something about something that someone else hasn't
had the chance to learn yet.

>Is there a way to increase the compression ratio on a 72 Oldest 350
>engine? 
>My first guess would be a head swap along with pistons.  Would I be
>correct thus far? 
   
  You can do this without replacing your existing heads or pistons, but what
heads are on your motor and how much do you want to increase your CR by?


>The reason I ask is that I am going to be  rebuilding  my engine and
>would like to improve its performance while I have it apart.  

  To what degree do you want to improve performance?  Do you want to run it
at the drag strip?  Do you want it to be one of the fastest cars on the
street? Or do you want it to have just a real nice kick on the street?
These prerogatives are all in direct (almost) proportion to the amount of
dollars that you spend....and they can jump from category to category by
thousands.

   
    Glenn
    '69 4-4-2
 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 18:33:09 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Metric > Imperial (long)

> >        I too been unsuccessful in finding some sort of formula to convert
> psi
> >in a compression test to compression ratio.  That would be very handy, so if
> >anyone out there knows of such a formula, please pass it on!
> I asked this question a while back, I can't remember the reasoning, but
> they said that their isn't a formula b/c the two aren't related. Whoever I
> talked to said there are too many other factors involved to make any kind
> of accurate comparison between the two.. I genuinely wish their was a
> formula though...

        It certainly would be.  Since we're on the subject of formulas/converting
and all that jargon, I thought I'd just post a quick little thing on converting
from metric to imperial & vice versa in case anyone's interested.

L/100K (litres per 100KM) => mpg (miles per gallon) [fuel economy]
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1 L/100K = 282.5 mpg
2 L/100K = 141.25 mpg
10L/100K = 28.25 mpg
etc....
1 mpg = 282.5 L/100K
2 mpg = 141.2 L/100K
10 mpg = 28.2 L/100K
etc...

kPa (kilopascals) => PSI (pounds per sqr. inch) [pressure]
- ------------------------------------------------------------------
1 kPa = 0.145 PSI
2 kPa = 0.290 PSI
10 kPa = 1.450 PSI
etc...
1 PSI = 6.895 kPa
2 PSI = 13.79 kPa
10 PSI = 68.95 kPa
etc...

kW (kiloWatts) => HP (horsepower) [power]
- --------------------------------------------------------
1 kW = 1.34 HP
2 kW = 2.68 HP
10 kW = 13.40 HP
etc....
1 HP = 0.746 kW
2 HP = 1.492 kW
10HP = 7.46 kW

mm (millimetres) => thou (thousands of an inch) [clearance]
- ------------------------------------------------------------------
0.1 mm = 3.937 thou = 0.00394"
0.2 mm = 7.874 thou = 0.00787"
1.0 mm = 39.37 thou = 0.03937"
etc...
0.1 thou = 0.0001" = 0.00254 mm
0.2 thou = 0.0002" = 0.00508 mm
1.0 thou = 0.001" =  0.0254 mm

cm (centimetres) => inches [length]
- ------------------------------------------
1 cm = 0.3937"
2 cm = 0.7874"
10 cm = 3.937"
etc....
1" = 2.54 cm
2" = 5.08 cm
10" = 25.4 cm
etc...

m (metres) => ft (feet) [distance]
- ---------------------------------------
1 m = 3.281 ft
2 m = 6.562 ft
10 m = 32.81 ft
etc...
1 ft = 0.3048 m
2 ft = 0.6096 m
10 ft = 3.048 m
etc...

km (kilometres) => miles [distance] [speed*]
- ------------------------------------------
1 km = 0.6214 miles
2 km = 1.2428 miles
10 km = 6.214 miles
160 km = 99.424 miles
etc....
1 mile = 1.6093 km
2 miles = 3.2186 km
10 miles = 16.093 km
160 miles = 257.488 km
etc...
* you can simply substitue km/h (kilometres per hour) and mph (miles per hour)
for speed conversion

cc (cubic centimetres) => ci (cubic inches) [volume]
- --------------------------------------------------------------
1 cc = 0.06102 ci
2 cc = 0.122 ci
100 cc = 6.102 ci
etc....
1 ci = 16.387 cc
2 ci = 32.774 cc
10 ci = 163.87 cc
307 ci = 5030.809 cc
350 ci = 5735.45 cc
400 ci = 6554.8 cc
455 ci = 7456.085 cc
468 ci = 7669.116 cc  =B)
etc...

L (litres) => gal (gallons) [volume]
- ----------------------------------------
1 L = 0.21995 gal
2 L = 0.4399 gal
etc...
1 gal = 4.5461 L
2 gal = 9.09222 L
etc...

I hope SOMEONE is able to use at least SOMETHING outta here  =B)
- --
Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
Rat-Powered '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
mailto:lee@mergetel.com
Niagara Falls, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 18:34:05 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Re: Compression test (was breather elements)

>   There is no way to directly convert CR to cranking cylinder pressure. The
> cranking cylinder pressure is heavily dependant on valve timing. For example,
> my race motor is 14.6:1 CR and I can tune it anywhere from 150 psi to 210 psi
> depending on how I want to run it merely by changing the timing of the
> camshaft.

        Yea, now that you mention it, that does make sense, Dave.
- --
Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
Rat-Powered '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
mailto:lee@mergetel.com
Niagara Falls, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 18:52:37 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: EGR Valve Changing

First of all, it's good to be back!  I had a good Thanksgiving, I hope
everyone else did, too.  While on break, I actually did some body work!  I
had some rust on the bottom of the driver's door when I got the car and
when it was repainted, the rust was supposed to be fixed.  Well, it came
back pretty quick and I never did anything about it.  Last week, I decided
to tear into it and found out that the body shop apparently put some rubber
stuff over the rust and just repainted it.  Well, there was quite a bit of
surface rust under all that rubber, so I cleaned that all up with naval
jelly and repainted with white primer.  The door looks so much better now
and I can honestly say that I have a rust free car!

Anyway, on to the topic.  While on break, I also got to replacing stuff
under the hood like the PCV valve and the crankcase breather.  I was going
to change the EGR valve also.  First of all, do I need to?  I think so, my
plug tips are tan and light gray, the engine runs too warm in my opinion
and there is some spark knock at moderate throttle.  These symptoms all
indicate a lean condition, right?  So, I think it needs to be changed, but
HOW?!  I can't get a socket or a wrench under that mushroom thing on top of
the valve (vacuum chamber I assume?)!  By the way, this is on a 1984 CSC
307.  Is there a way to take the EGR valve apart as installed on the car? 
If that large vacuum chamber would somehow come off, it would be a lot
easier to take the thing off.  Come to think of it, I have to get an
assembled EGR valve BACK ON.  Hmm.  Any tips or has anyone done this before
on a 307?  Thanks much guys and gals.
_____________________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.erols.com/adcockjk

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 18:53:46 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: Mobil 1

RCKTPWR@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 97-11-28 11:40:38 EST, you write:
> 
> <<
>  If you're going to try synthetic, flush your crankcase first...just to
>  be on the safe side.
>   >>
> Ive got 44k trouble free miles on my 94 nissan se-v6 4x4. 1st 1k miles std
> oil. Switched over to synthetic and dura-lube,  I use mobil 1.   No leaks
> yet....

If an engine has had synthetic oil all it's life (or most), chances are
it won't for some time.  Synthetic oils have certain additves designed
to keep all oil-related gaskets soft and pliable, whereas most
conventionals do not.  So, if you suddenly switch from conventional to
synthetic, it's very commom to see an engine leak oil, even if it's
never leaked a drop before.

All the oil-related gaskets in my '78 are all original, and have had a
"sweat" around them for the past few years.  I recently switched to a
5w-30 semi-synthetic, and it hasn't worsned them at all.  I was told by
quite a few people (on & off list), that synthetics can make an oil leak
like a sieve...(or worse, just like the old Rx7's!)

But, the pros of synthetic oils outweigh the cons...

- ------------------------------------------------ 
S. Dave Ward   mailto:ward@ptbo.igs.net 

'78 Delta 88 (350 4bbl.)
'85 Delta 88 (307 4bbl.)
'91 GMC Sierra 4x4 (305 TBI)

(Ennismore, Ontario, CANADA)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 18:56:55 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: 307/350 eng. swap

Hi all,

I've made the decision to pull my '78 Delta off the road...it wasn't an
easy one, either.  It's a waste of money for me to have three vehicles
on the road, considering the fact that I can only drive one at a time. 
It was tough deciding between the '78 Delta 88 Royale and the '85 Delta
88 Royale Brougham, but I've figured out how to get the best of both
cars.  I like the fact that the '78 has *power*, but the body will need
a paint job within the next year.  The body on the '85 is spotless, and
the interior looks like new.  I'd like to swap engines because the 307
is a little gutless, and has to be held to the firewall to get any
decent power.  The 307 uses absolutely no oil, but I certainly miss
having passing power...

As early as June, I'd like to pull the engine and tranny (350/350) out
of the '78, and drop the engine in the '85.  It's got the 307 in it
right now, and I'm wondering if it would fit or not.  It's the same
frame, right?  If so, would the engine bolt right up?

The '85 has the TH200-4r (I think!) in it right now, and I'd like to
keep it that way.  I like the idea of having a tall overdrive for gas
mileage (whine), but the power of a 350 would be sweet.  (BTW, I'd be
rebuilding the 350 before installing it...smaller heads, mild cam,
+.020)  Would I have to change the bell housing at all?  Since I'm not
changing trannies, I eliminate the need for changing cross-members and
drive shafts...(which is one less headache).  Would the kick-downs be
the same?  Throttle cables?

This doesn't seem like a difficult thing to accomplish...could someone
let me know if there are any forseeable (is that a word?) difficulties? 
Sending the '78 to the boneyard will not be an easy thing to
do...(sniffle)...it's been on the road since Dec. 11th 1977, and her 20
year anniversary is coming up in a couple weeks...

- ----------------------------------------- 
S. Dave Ward   mailto:ward@ptbo.igs.net 

'78 Delta 88 (350 4bbl.)
'85 Delta 88 (307 4bbl.)
'91 GMC Sierra 4x4 (305 TBI)

(Ennismore, Ontario, CANADA)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 19:07:03 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: stroker?

Josh J. Haviland wrote:
> 
> Reply to message from wittchri@pilot.msu.edu of Sat, 29 Nov
> >
> >dont know about the rest of ya, but, i go out to the garage at least once a
> >week and stroke my olds's.  Chris Matthes
> >====================
> >
> >That's too funny!
> >A whole new meaning to "polishing one's Rocket!"
> >
> >--
> >Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
> >*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
> >
> >
>    Hi, I seem to remember a conversation on the list awhile back involving
> this, like the possibilities of destroking a 455 into a 445 or so, i think
> that  would make a nice motor for the street, if anyone has any ideas on
> how to do that I would give it a go when the money is here for it :) (AKA:
> after my 350 is done) but what about destroking a 350? maybe around 330 or
> so ci? I would love to have a 330 but have seen none around anywhere since
> oldses don't seem to get into junkyards around here by cleveland :) but
> other than that, I stroke my olds daily also

Either I've gone completely blind, or the Arabic numerals now have
different values...

Why would you want to *destroke* something?  Cubic inches are a *good*
thing!

- ---------------------------------------- 
S. Dave Ward   mailto:ward@ptbo.igs.net 

'78 Delta 88 (350 4bbl.)
'85 Delta 88 (307 4bbl.)
'91 GMC Sierra 4x4 (305 TBI)

(Ennismore, Ontario, CANADA)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 19:23:15 -0500
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: EGR Valve Changing

Come to think of it, I have to get an
> assembled EGR valve BACK ON.  Hmm.  Any tips or has anyone done this before
> on a 307?  Thanks much guys and gals.

Hmmm.  I've done that one before on mine.  I suspected a bad EGR valve
when it was nothing more than a vacuum leak!  Not hard though.  I think
it is either a 1/2" or 9/16" wrench, and a screwdriver to bend the
locking tabs away from the bolt head flats.  Then you just remove the
bolts.  Simple.  Remember to do this with the engine cold.  Other than
not burning yourself, the intake is aluminum.  Gotta be careful. 
Intallation is just as "easy".  You can get new lock tabs, gaskets, etc.
from your local GM dealer if yours needs replacing.  Usually, if you've
never had it off before, there are provisions for bending the locktab
more than once.  I dabbed a touch of anti-sieze on the bolts before
re-installing them.  Just in case I ever have to do it again.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 19:26:32 -0500
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: EGR Valve Changing

Oh yeah, Jason.  One more thing about the EGR valve.  Just about the
only way to get the vacuum pod off the EGR is with a BFH.  Very well
made little unit, but it comes assembled, and there is no way to remove
it without taking the vavle disc off, which means you have to remove it
from the engine.  Catch 22.  Be patient, it will come off.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 19:38:26 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: EGR Valve Changing

Mike Rothe wrote:
> 
> Oh yeah, Jason.  One more thing about the EGR valve.  Just about the
> only way to get the vacuum pod off the EGR is with a BFH.  Very well
> made little unit, but it comes assembled, and there is no way to remove
> it without taking the vavle disc off, which means you have to remove it
> from the engine.  Catch 22.  Be patient, it will come off.

Yeah, I guess I'll have to loosen the throttle linkage stuff because that's
what's getting in the way.  Thanks for the tips, but the only thing I'd
take a BFH to is a Chevrolet.  Cheers.
_____________________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.erols.com/adcockjk

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 19:42:56 -0500
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 69 H/O

> VIN#  3368791104079
> -----------------------------
> the VIN indicates a Cutlass, not a 442. Series 3687... The 1 after the 9  says
> built in Canada. I thought H/O's were based on 442's [series 44xx] and were all
>                              built in Lansing [M where the 1 is there]
> 
Correctamundo, Captain Chris.  It is a Cutlass hardtop, built in the
Great White North.  All 69 H/O's (except the converts.) came with
344879Mxxxxxx VINs, but had the Cutlass body tags with 50-50 paint codes
and 930 trim codes.  They were built in the White North (Lansing), but
not the GREAT White North.  And they all had SH, SJ or SL rear end codes
(H/O only).

My added 2 cents.
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 20:06:49 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Subject: Re: 81 Toronado Exhaust System

Hi Brian,

> Is there a 'Y pipe' on this model, or just a crossover pipe from

The exhaust system on the E-car runs down the middle, where a driveshaft
would "normally" reside. <g>  It should have a Y pipe (like my '80
Seville), and the catalytic converter is interchangeable with other large
GM cars of that period.

Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 20:08:12 -0500 (EST)
From: ea154@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Josh J. Haviland)
Subject: Re: stroker?

<*snipped comments about stroking oldses and polishing rockets*> 

>Either I've gone completely blind, or the Arabic numerals now have
>different values...
>
>Why would you want to *destroke* something?  Cubic inches are a *good*
>thing!
>
>-
  just for the heck of it?
actually to my understanding, more cubic inches the olds way = more torque
which *is* good, but if you slightly or massivly destroked something, you
have less rotational mass which = higher revs and more HP, but less torque,
i guess it all depends on the use of a motor, If i'm wrong here please
correct me, from some experience with different computer dyno programs
which i've found pretty accurate, i can pull more HP out of a 350 or a 330
than a 425 or a 455. it's not the size of the engine but how you use it ;)

- --
__/////////\  Budgreen, ea154@cleveland.freenet.edu  /\\\\\\\\\__             
  \\\\\\\\\/      Josh......                         \/////////
=================================================================

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 20:31:36 -0500
From: "DREW RACING" <drewracn@gte.net>
Subject: Re: Pictures of Mondello parts available...

Fellow Oldsmobile List Members,

Anyone that is interested in the Mondello parts that I posted for sale, I
have pictures that I can send via e-mail as of today!  Some or most of the
parts can be used for Oldsmobile engines other than the 350 DX diesel block
too.  The 350 DX is unbelievably stout as it had to hold up to crazy,
everyday compression as a diesel engine.  Correct me if I'm wrong, but I
think the compression was around 22:1?  

I have a total of $1338.50 (without shipping) invested in these parts.  The
oil pan and pump cost me $267.00, the rods were $540.00!  Steal these parts
now!  ;)

Thanks,
 
Drew Walz
DREW RACING
 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 21:15:45 -0500 (EST)
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: 81 Toronado Exhaust System

geez, i had a whole aluminized dual exhaust system, manifolds back for $190!!
 are you sure that job will be that much?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 21:13:26 -0500
From: "deirdre. reilly" <102724.635@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Olds Rockets and Stangs.......and the 86 442???...

Bernie wrote:

>OK OK  whats the dif between the 442 and the Salon susp??? Thank for the
>stang 2 info, allways interesting to learn more about them.


The difference between the 442 and Salon suspension was that teh 442 had
rear air shocks and bigger tires. P215/65r15 compared to P195/75r14

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme
'83 Cutlass Ciera

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 21:21:39 -0500
From: "deirdre. reilly" <102724.635@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: all you "G" body fans

It could be an '88 Cutlass Supreme Classic with the rare '88 Hurst Aero kit
on it.  That would technically make it a 20th anniversary Hurst Olds.
Sounds like a nice Olds, could be collectable if in really good shape and
well documented.

If it turns out to be an '83 15th Aniv. H/O I'd be interested.  Please
forward some more info on this car.

Thanks,

 Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme
'83 Cutlass Ciera

>hey guys,
> theres a guy locally here in south carolina that has a 30th
>anniversary Hurst Olds I beleive its a 87?...very nice
condtion...with
>t-tops...and original paint..lightning rod shifters...don't know the
>price but if anyones interested in it I'll take a closer look and see
>how negotiable the guy is on the price...probably will move some on
it
>since its been for sale for about 6 or 8 months now...let me know...

>Hmm.... The first Hurst Olds was the 68 model. In 1983, the 15th
>anniversary edition was produced. As far as I know, the 84 Hurst Olds
>was the last produced. Probably it's a 83 and 15th anniversary. Nice
>cars. I'd like to have one myself.

>Mick Gillespie

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 21:30:31 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Olds Rockets and Stangs.......and the 86 442???...

deirdre. reilly wrote:
>
> The difference between the 442 and Salon suspension was that teh 442 had
> rear air shocks and bigger tires. P215/65r15 compared to P195/75r14

Did all Salons have the F41 suspension package?  It is my understanding
that the F41 brought the regular Cutlass suspension stuff up to 442-level
specs, except for the air shocks and wheels/tires of course.  Don't
Cutlasses without F41 have regular bushings and softer springs and slower
steering gears, etc.?  With the 1984 and previous at least, the top level
Cutlass, the Calais, came with lots of options, but not the F41 unless it
was ordered specifically.  Just making sure...
_____________________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.erols.com/adcockjk

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 21:29:41 -0500
From: cm_hawk@juno.com (Clay V Merenuk)
Subject: Re: 69' Deluxe Steering Wheel

I have a 69 442 with the N34 Custom sport steering wheel.  Russell
has described it.  The color is red to match the interior.

Clay.

On Sun, 30 Nov 1997 15:57:22 -0000 "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
writes:
>Russell,
>
>If by deluxe, you mean a sporty type wheel as opposed to one w/only a 
>horn
>button for decoration, then this not true.  The 4-spoke sporty one is 
>a 1970
>& up model.  The sporty one for 1969 is vinyl coated w/wood grain 
>inserts in
>the 3 spokes & a woodgrain center cap w/rocket emblem inside that.  
>The
>woodgrain matches the woodgrain on the dash.  They came in various 
>colors.
>
>Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
>Decatur, Alabama
>'62 Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 convertible
>
>
>>I am trying to find a deluxe steering wheel for my 69' 442.
>>Frank in Florida says the deluxe steering wheel is the same from 69' 
>- 72'
>and
>>They only came in black.  Is this true?
>>
>>rgbaker@wt.net
>>" If it's worth doing.  Then do it right ! "
>>Russ
>>
>>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 22:14:31 +0000
From: "Joe Gerschutz" <gerschjt@flyernet.udayton.edu>
Subject: Engine Swap

I am looking into buying an 82 Calais.  I can get the car extremely 
cheap (or free)  and in relatively good condition, which is necessary 
due to my limited funds.  It has the Buick 231 (I think), which I 
heard is extremely doggish.  I also heard that Cutlass can hold up to 
a 403 or something like that.  A 350 or maybe a 307 would suit me 
fine but more power is better if possible.  What would be the best 
suited engine size and what kind of car would I find one in.  I will 
probably then need a new tranny, could I get this from the same car?  
Someone told me to watch out for carb linkages, wouldn't I just use 
the existing carb (granted there is one)?  Currently the car has 
straight pipe (the previous unknown owner took out the catalytic 
convertor) and also disconnected the pollution control belt.  I 
forgot to check but I'm almost sure the A/C is disconned too.  The 
heater is also disconned, does this mean the car probably has an 
overheating problem?  There are no keys for it so I won't find out 
how it runs until after I buy it.  Thanks.

Joe
gerschjt@flyernet.udayton.edu
82 Calais (maybe)
91 Cutlass Ciera
97 Aurora
79 MGB

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 22:22:11 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: 69' Deluxe Steering Wheel

- -----Original Message-----
From: Clay V Merenuk <cm_hawk@juno.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, November 30, 1997 9:37 PM
Subject: Re: 69' Deluxe Steering Wheel


>I have a 69 442 with the N34 Custom sport steering wheel.  Russell
>has described it.  The color is red to match the interior.
>
>Clay.
>
>On Sun, 30 Nov 1997 15:57:22 -0000 "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
>writes:
>>Russell,
>snip>
>> & a woodgrain center cap w/rocket emblem inside that.
>>The
>>woodgrain matches the woodgrain on the dash.
>>Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
>>Decatur, Alabama
>>'62 Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 convertible

Speaking of woodgrain that matches the dash, my sport wheel has a
clean bright color to the grain in the centre cap. The woodgrain on
the dash looks dull, dark and grungy. It is in good shape otherwise.
Does anyone know of a supplier for the 69 woodgrain panels? Even a way
to bring back the original color would be appreciated. I'm hesitant
about using any kind of cleaner for fear of making it worse. Thanks in
advance.

Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass S convertible
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 22:31:39 -0500 (EST)
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: found lansing...

 everett.. found your letter.. your car is very nice.. as are the other
pictures..

  sure do like the 71 bittersweet.. 4 spd...

   olds guy....

------------------------------

Date: 
From: 
Subject: [none]



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 00:20:00 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Olds 403 Engine Swap

> heard is extremely doggish.  I also heard that Cutlass can hold up to
> a 403 or something like that.  A 350 or maybe a 307 would suit me
> fine but more power is better if possible.  What would be the best
> suited engine size and what kind of car would I find one in.  I will
> probably then need a new tranny, could I get this from the same car?
> Someone told me to watch out for carb linkages, wouldn't I just use
> the existing carb (granted there is one)?  Currently the car has
> Joe
> gerschjt@flyernet.udayton.edu
> 82 Calais (maybe)
> 91 Cutlass Ciera
> 97 Aurora
> 79 MGB

Joe,
        Yes, the 403 does very nicely in Cutlasses.  I had one in my '76
Cutlass (a few hundred pounds heavier than the one you're thinking of
getting) and it pulled the beast to 16.2 in the quarter mile - completely
stock with 200K+ miles on it.  My engine was retrieved from a 1978
Oldsmobile 98 before it hit the scrap yard.  The transmission could be
taken from the same donor car, but your best bet would be to get at least
a TH350 Oldsmobile transmission from a scrap yard.  That way you know
it's working, and if it's not, you've got a warrenty.  The 403 engines
were offered in full-size Oldsmobiles (and according to Chiltons, whom I
don't completely trust, some Cutlasses, Omegas, and Starfires) starting
in '77 when it replaced the 455.  I believe it's reign went until '82 as
the largest Oldsmobile V8 from the factory in these cars.
        As for the carb linkages, I think he might have been referring to
the conversion from the Buick 231 to the Olds V8.  The distance from the
bracket the throttle cable hooks into to the actual arm where the cable
hooks on will most likely be different - it was for me when I switched my
305 Chev in my '76 Monte Carlo from a 2-bbl to a 4-bbl - a little adapter
had to be made to extend the throttle cable's reach.  I didn't bother to
check how easy it is to change the throttle cable, but that might be an
option too...you might wanna grab the actual throttle cable from the
donor car too, if you can.
- --
Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
Rat-Powered '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
mailto:lee@mergetel.com
Welland, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 23:17:31 -0600
From: Curt & Carrie Hogan <hogan@cjnetworks.com>
Subject: How do I get out of here?

Can someone please tell me how to unsubscribe from this group as I cannot
keep up with the email? I would also like to make a suggestion that this
site be run similar to another I subscribe to called i-atn. This sight has
several headings you may subscribe to and if a person posts in a heading
you do not subscribe to it simply is not sent to you. There are roughly 900
e-mail a day sent to this server through 7000 participants and I get about
60 (which is tolerable)because I am not subscribe to all headings. I really
don't want to unsubscribe from this group as there are a lot of
knowledgeable individuals here. Another hint, would be as the other list
does, would be to require answers be directed directly to the person who
requested it and if anyone wanted to know the responses, they would simply
respond to the inquirer and ask he/she forward replies. Sorry for rambling
but I hope my hints might help this be a better sight. But until then could
someone please let me know how to unsubscribe.
Thank you 
Curt Hogan  

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 23:39:38 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: Engine Swap

Joe Gerschutz wrote:

> forgot to check but I'm almost sure the A/C is disconned too.  The
> heater is also disconned, does this mean the car probably has an
> overheating problem?  There are no keys for it so I won't find out
> how it runs until after I buy it.  Thanks.

When you say heater is disconnected, do you mean the hoses, or the
blower motor...  Both are well, (only Ford experience here) not to
good... <G>

1. Heater Hoses...  Might indicate heater core leak...  I am not sure on
GM cars, but Fords are not easy replacements, and if you walk away
without a busted knuckle, you've done something wrong...  <G>  It
usually takes 3 or 4 knuckles with it...  The way to check is to turn
the blower on high, right around the Vent, or Defrost vents.  Smell for
anti-freeze, if it's got a scent, heater core time... Unless you have a
big jacket, a good window rag, and windows that work full tilt.

2. Blower Motors...  They aren't hard to replace, unless they aren't the
culpruit.  In which case, look at the fuse panel, and find the fuse for
blower motor... If it's blown, two options, find the wire that's
shorting out, or take it to someone...  I recommend taking it to
someone, my Dad's 88 Buick Skyhawk was a real booger, and after 2 weeks
of tranking wires, we saw no prob...  The repair shop found the wire in
1/2 a day.  If the fuse is good, you got other options, like the blower
control switch, or the air deflection switch (can't think of name) check
all those before assuming it's blower motor...  Done this twice on two
cars before I learned my lesson....  $30 in the beginning is cheaper
than forking $100 to avoid the $30, only to buy the $30 anyways! <G>

Good luck though...

- -- 
             		    Jerry Christopher
     ___        HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
 ___/.o \__, 	     1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
_=O------O=__________It ain't my father's Oldsmobile_______

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 00:21:19 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Re: checking

ANTIQOLDS@aol.com wrote:

> testing one two three

        Roger, I read ya, 10-4, out.  =B)
- --
Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
Rat-Powered '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
mailto:lee@mergetel.com
Welland, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 00:00:53 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: "GM BLOOD"

> what's getting in the way.  Thanks for the tips, but the only thing I'd
> take a BFH to is a Chevrolet.  Cheers.

        I find it very interesting that so many guys on the list, with such
consistency, are into "bashing" Chevys (some more literally than others as this
quote from Jason Adcock shows =B)  Especially considering that the cars which
you guys are talking about are so closely related to 'em.  I could understand
bashing Ford and Chrysler, who, IMHO both made many fine musclecars as well,
several of which I would be proud to own, but to bash other GMs??  Yes there
are differences, and yes you prefer the Oldsmobiles, but did you ever stop to
think that there just might be many parts in our cars that were mass produced
for several of the divisons in GM??  For all you know your car might have some
"Chevy blood" in it!!  But, again, in my view, all of our cars have genuine,
100% GM blood surging through their veins, and THAT'S what makes 'em so damn
good.
- --
Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
Rat-Powered '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
mailto:lee@mergetel.com
Welland, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 20:46:29 -0700 (MST)
From: Ray <rayc@U.Arizona.EDU>
Subject: Re: Mondello 350DX (diesel to gas) stroker motor parts for sale!

Please pardon me for repeating some of the things that were said days ago.
I've been away from the computer for a few days and am a few days behind.

Ray in the desert
87 409 Cutlass 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 21:58:10 -0600 (CST)
From: Rich Meyers <richbmeyers@cctr.umkc.edu>
Subject: g-body carb question

I've got an '84 CS with the 307 and a 4bbl carb. My problem is that the car
idles excessively high until it is thoroughly warmed up. During start up it
does the normal high idle to warm things up, then I hit the gas and it drops
several hundred rpm. I know that's normal. The problem is that it is reving
very high at start up, @4000rpm, and even after I tap the gas it only goes
down to @3000rpm. When I shift into gear it really jerks the car. After the
car warms up for a while, sometimes a long while, the idle goes down to
around 1500rpm. Keep in mind these figures are according to my stock tach. I
have adjusted the idle on the carb, but the lever that contacts the idle
stop screw doesn't hit it until the car is really warm. If I try to push the
lever back toward the screw it doesn't want to move. It feels like it might
be sticking or something is holding the throttle open slightly. I've checked
the vacuum hoses and they all appear to be okay. I don't think this carb has
ever been rebuilt and it has 160,000 miles on it, although the car runs very
well. This situation is very irritating and I would like to remedy it ASAP.
Thanks for any advice. Oldsmobile Forever!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 19:45:14 PST
From: "John Stolarski" <oldscs350@hotmail.com>
Subject: 86 CS Steering Box

Well, the 350 installation now has yet another financial set back...I 
now need a new power steering box...so, whats the question you ask? Is 
there any difference between a 1986 Cutlass Supreme steering box and a 
1986 442 steering box? Would I be better off putting in a 442's, would I 
get a little better steering response out of it?
Thanks...

John

'86 Cutlass Supreme
 The "Black Mariah"

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 00:26:07 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: The last thing I say about radiators (was Re: My Slant on Recent Subjects)

>I agree with the first expounder (the engineer). 
>
>The general rule is that more heat is transferred when the difference in
>temperature between heat sinks (engine and outside air) is greatest. 
>
>What this means is that for the same engine temp, you radiate more heat in
>the dead of winter than the height of summer. Anyone disagree? 

Ooooh, ooooh, Meee, meee! ;)

Same _amount_ of heat, dissipated quicker. See the following:

>The key here is the rate of heat transfer. 

Right, and when you multiply this by TIME, you have the AMOUNT of heat
transferred.

RATE x TIME = AMOUNT (this applies to anything, not just coolant)

The AMOUNT of heat is a constant generated by the engine, regardless of the
season. Therefore, how quickly it is dissipated will depend upon the outside
temperature.

>The rate of transfer is greatest
 [snip]
>The reason that it would be bad for the coolant to be slow moving can be best
>expalined by illustrating same.
>
>Say the coolant moves at.... well we'll just call it damn slow. The coolant
>in the water jackets comes close to being the same temp as the block
>(volcanic, in my case) and the coolant in the radiator gets close to the
>temperature of ambient air.

Since the now-cold water is entering the block, however, it has the maximum
temperature difference possible, and thus is cooling very well. And that
volcanic coolant is entering the radiator at that temperature, and thus is
radiating heat very well. The temperature of the coolant in the radiator or
block is not a constant, but varies from entry to exit, so to talk about the
difference between the temperature of the coolant in the radiator and in the
block is meaningless, since they are identical at two points: 1) the
radiator outlet/engine inlet and 2) the engine outlet/radiator inlet.

>Although it may not sound correct to some of you (Dr. Bob, say it ain't so!),
>the best scenario would truly be for the coolant to flow swiftly, in order
>for the bulk of the coolant to be at constant temperature. What we really
>want is for the coolant to be at as high a temperature as possible, thus
>maximizing the heat transferred from the radiator.

Unfortunately, according to what everybody has said, what you want are two
mutually opposed things:

1) Swift coolant movement through the block, resulting in high engine
outlet/radiator inlet temperatures, so that the temperature differential
between the hot coolant and the coolar air is at a maximum, and you have
maximum heat loss from the coolant.

2) Slow coolant movement through the radiator, resulting in low radiator
outlet/engine inlet temperatures, so that the temperature differential
between the cool coolant and the hot engine is at a maximum, and you have
maximum heat absorption by the coolant.

What you have to settle for in the real world, however, is a compromise
between the two, since the rate of flow through the system is going to be
the same. In reality, the only variable you can alter is the total volume of
coolant and the amount of time it spends in the radiator (by increasing the
size of the radiator), or the volume of air passing over the radiator (where
the goal is the same as #1 above).

So, here is a short list of foolish ideas that I will from now on in ignore:

* That engine cooling is optimized when the coolant spends as little time in
the radiator as possible (and all such ideas of increasing the rate of
coolant flow through the radiator, or any ideas about infinitely fast water
pumps).

* For that matter, any talk about optimizing the rate of heat transfer
without corresponding discussion about the TIME that will be involved, or
discussion about how efforts to maximize this RATE will affect the TIME
within which that heat tranfer can take place.

* That engine cooling is optimized when the coolant being sent back into the
engine is as hot as possible.

* Any ideas that posit a "constant temperature" as an ideal, which would
imply that the coolant inlet and coolant outlet temperatures are identical.
This would mean that something else entirely is doing the cooling, for no
heat would be added or subtracted from the coolant in such a system. A
cooling system depends upon the existence of differences between the
temperatures of the coolant at the inlet and the coolant at the outlet of
the engine.

What I'd really like to see is an explanation from an automotive engineer
about cooling design, who can apply this theory to our Oldsmobiles (Olds
content; didn't think I'd get it in there...). All I've got behind me is
basic college physics and some hot-running Oldsmobiles, and I can spot the
flaws in some of these "fast-coolant theories"; I'd like an expert to step
in here and settle this, and it sure isn't me.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #980
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