To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #981


oldsmobile-digest       Monday, December 1 1997       Volume 01 : Number 981



Re: Mondello 350DX (diesel to gas) stroker motor parts for sale!
Re: 72 cutlass exhaust tips
Re: 1970 Olds 442 ( W-30 ?) For Sale
Re: EGR question
Re: Stroking an Olds?
Re: EGR fallacy to rest
Delta running again (was :Delta problems)
Re: [Fwd: Convertible Top Replacement]
Re: 1969 98 conv. for parts
Year One sale
alignment
Re: Compression
Re: [Fwd: Convertible Top Replacement]
Re: Compression
Re: alignment
86 salon =  442 susp ???'s
Re: 86 CS Steering Box
Re: 86 salon =  442 susp ???'s
Re: alignment
Re: alignment
Disc brake swap
Re: alignment
RE: diff lube
Mime-Version: 1.0
Re: Hydro-Boost, was(Diesel brake conversion)
Re: Disc brake swap
RE: Rear end oil capacity -  & TYPE
Hurst 442 trans swap parts info
Re: g-body carb question
Cutlass Only?
Re: '56 Olds breather tube question (H.D. VERSUS STANDARD)
Re: Wanted: OL4B experience
Re: Cutlass Only?
Re: Hurst 442 trans swap parts info
RE: Full Size Dual Exhaust
Re: Hurst 442 trans swap parts info
Window fuzzies
I'm gonna have to sell my Cutlass
dead battery in calais
OAI scoops, cheap and plentiful
RE: dead battery in calais
'64 Hood springs
Air cleaner woes
Re: Compression
67 Olds 98 Replacement Engine
Re: Oil Pan
Re: Mobil 1
Re: Olds 445 cams
Re: dead battery in calais
Re: Stroking an Olds?
Re: Air cleaner woes

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 20:46:29 -0700 (MST)
From: Ray <rayc@U.Arizona.EDU>
Subject: Re: Mondello 350DX (diesel to gas) stroker motor parts for sale!

Please pardon me for repeating some of the things that were said days ago.
I've been away from the computer for a few days and am a few days behind.

Ray in the desert
87 409 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 00:26:16 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: 72 cutlass exhaust tips

>Jim & Joanne Chermack wrote:
>>         Cutlass Supremes did not have the availabilty of any Exhaust tips.
>> The Hurst/Olds and the 442 had them only. The 72 Cutlass Supreme had plain
>> turned down pipe.
>>
>beg to differ Jim......ummmm...1 Cutlass Supreme came with tips....the
>SX...at least every 1 I have I seen has...and i have 1 in the garage for
>a reference....just a lil FYI....Hoagie

True, for '70 and '71. For '72, though, the SX was dead, though I like to
think of the H/O as the logical successor of the SX, and as Jim noted, IT
had the trumpets.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 00:26:18 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: 1970 Olds 442 ( W-30 ?) For Sale

>supposedly a 70 442 W-30, well here i go again running far off in hopes of
>finding a decent car to restore & show . Heres what i found.             70
>442 w/ red inner fenders,Muncie 4sd. , ( Power D Brakes ? ) That's odd i
>thought that manual trans. cars came with manual brakes. Ram Air Hood in
>need of work to the nose due to the owner driving in the rain on the way to
>work in a hurry. Ram Air Breather, NO ALUMINUM INTAKE , E  Heads. I didn't
>have time to or the light to see if the engine vinª matched the VINª on the
>car but i did get the cowl tag    ST70  34487LAN447555     TR937
>                48A  PNT    04E                  B85
>         The owner loves the car & hates to sell it but needs to for
>financial reasons.   The car needs a coplete resto.  asking $5,000.00

That's about a fair price for a fake W-30. Even if the car was originally a
W-30 (which I doubt, as the only W-30 pieces on there seem to be the red
liners), so many of the key pieces are missing that it would cost you a
fortune to make it right.

Oh, wait, I see you said it needs a complete restoration; mainly, how's the
body? Unless the body is solid, I'd deduct the cost of making the body solid
from that $5000 figure; even a ratty original W-30 wouldn't be worth that
much, especially with those pieces missing, though a well-documented but
ratty W-30 convertible might be.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 00:26:25 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: EGR question

>I've owned my 73 delta for a year now. Since i bought it the EGR has always
>been disconnected, as well as the TVS switch and the vacuum to the
>distributor. No cap is on.

Well, as for the TVS and distributor vacuum being disconnected, that's a
real hatchet job. The TVS and vacuum advance has no negative effect on
performance, so I'd hook those back up according to factory specs right
away; $3 of new vacuum line and a half-hour with a factory diagram will get
you right back where you should be.

>The engine has always been running fine though, except for a rough idle
>sometimes.
>Should I modify something on the engine: get rid of the EGR valve and put a
>plate instead? What about the TVS switch and the vacuum to the distributor?
>I hope it's not too late...

No, it's not too late. You don't have to remove the EGR valve; without
vacuum being fed to it, it's closed, and therefore it serves as a perfectly
functional, though rather bulky, block-off plate. If you're not getting any
part-throttle detonation, then there's no need to hook it back up.
Unfortunately, though, once you hook back up the vacuum advance, I suspect
you'll get part-throttle pinging with the EGR disconnected (that might be
why the advance was disconnected in the first place). Since vacuum advance
greatly improves part-throttle fuel economy, I'd recommend hooking
everything, including the EGR, back up to factory specs, and see how it runs.

Now, you may find that part-throttle driveability suffers with the factory
setup, due to the EGR system. You could improve its driveability by
eliminating the EGR from the system, but the proper way to do this is *not*
to simply disconnect the EGR valve and start driving. Without the EGR valve
in operation, you'll need to richen the fuel curve at part-throttle by using
pre-EGR primary and secondary metering rods in the carburetor. You could do
this by swapping the rods themselves, or by simply bolting on a complete
pre-EGR carb. Even then, you may have to modify the rods or jets, to
compensate for the different quality fuels available today.

What you'll be trying to do is convince your engine that it's really a
1971-72 engine, rather than a '73 engine, which is entirely possible, as the
combustion chamber doesn't know the difference.
- ---

On the same subject, but in regard to a different comment that has been
floating around:

>>Benjamin Ray Cook wrote:
>>
>>>>>Unless if you've richened the mixture you have created instant detonation
>>
>>In other words, you'd better pucker up to the air cleaner, and kiss your
>>engine goodbye....

Well, I said something similar above, but let me propose an exception to the
above. My '78 403 suffered incredibly from part-throttle driveability
problems. Since I do almost all my driving at part throttle, this got to be
annoying, so I've disconnected the vacuum to the EGR valve. When I did this
on my unrebuilt 403, I got massive part-throttle pinging, even with the
factory advance (16') backed way down. With my rebuilt 403, however, that
has higher compression (about 9.5:1), simply disconnecting the EGR valve has
surprisingly NOT resulted in any part-throttle detonation. I've been to busy
to properly tune the carb, so it's not running at its peak, but even now, it
doesn't seem to be running lean. I can't explain it, but there you have it,
my own testimony to prove my above advice wrong.

Actually, all this proves is that you need to test what works on your
engine, as there are too many variables to make blanket statements that hold
in every case. For example, I polished my combustion chambers, which might
reduce hot-spots from forming due to a leaner mixture, and thereby reduce
detonation.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 00:26:11 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Stroking an Olds?

>hey, i heard of a guy around here who is putting 455 cranks in 403 blocks!!!

Where is "there"? I have brought this possibility up before (well, actually,
I was considering a cut-down 425 crank in a solid-web 403 block), noting
that the huge bore on the 403 would make for instant big-cubes, but don't
have the parts to pursue it (I wouldn't waste the money machining an
open-web 403 block like the one I've got on hand).

> he is shaving down the mains on the crank so it will fit.  says its the
>equivilant of a 511, or something!!!

If he can do it, it would certainly be over 500ci (in a SMALL-BLOCK, mind
you!); depending on how he offset-grinds the rod journals, he could get up
to 534ci (I figured out the exact numbers and posted them awhile ago: I
guess those can be found in the archives).

I'd love to see the results of this experiment; how can I get in touch with
this guy?
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 00:26:13 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: EGR fallacy to rest

>Fallacy about EGR:
>
>exhaust gases, and these spent gases are used to dilute the fresh
>air/fuel mixture in the cylinders.  Hence this will reduce emissions,
>but it draws away from the max output of the engine.  With the EGR gone,
>the engine is always drawing in a fresh air/fuel mixture....and presto;
>more vroom-vroom.
>=================
>This is a common misperception. The EGR valve runs on vacuum. Typically, 
ported
>vacuum. At idle, none available because it's "ported." Thus, no EGR. At 
cruise,
>"some" EGR due to "some" vacuum available. At WOT, vacuum signal is near-zero.
>Not enough to open the EGR valve, thus NO EGR.
>
>Any performance changes due to EGR at WOT would be due to restrictions in the
>intake to make room for the EGR ports, etc.
>
>Hope this lays that to rest. All this is in the Olds Service Manaul and any
>other manual worth its salt. We engineers *do* sometimes :-) read them things.

On paper, EGR is an excellent idea; by diluting the intake charge with a
non-combustible mixture, it reduces the effective size of the engine (i.e.
if 50% of the intake charge of a 350ci motor is non-combustible, then the
engine is effectively a 175ci engine). Since it cuts out at full-throttle,
however, you still have the maximum power of a 350ci engine.

That's how it works on paper.

In reality, the part-throttle performance of the early EGR-equipped engines
was awful, since it was basically an on-off proposition, and at light
throttle, the unevenly distributed intake charge burnt unevenly, and
resulted in stumbling, hesitating, surging, etc. There were later bandaids
that tried to reduce the effects of this (check valves, delay valves,
thermal delay valves, etc.), but it wasn't until the computer-controlled,
fuel-injected engines that EGR was tamed, for then it could be introduced
progressively, and the designs of the ports and combustion chambers could be
optimized for these diluted intake charges.

You can see the way the factory fuel-curves for EGR engines differed from
the earlier engines from the primary and secondary rod profiles. While the
tip remains the same size (small, for rich operation), the Q-jets from
EGR-equipped cars had rods that became abruptly fatter (resulting in leaner
fuel mixtures), to match the diluted intake charge. In fact, the trend seems
to have been to move to a very large jet (ª73-ª76) with a very fat primary
rod (56V), in contrast to the earlier combinations (ª70 jet/39B rod).

Of course, disabling the EGR results in lean part-throttle conditions, which
could cause detonation.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: 30 Nov 1997 21:28:48 PST
From: mjones@gleep.com
Subject: Delta running again (was :Delta problems)

Well, my '78 Delta 88 is running once again tonight.  After successfully
testing the fuel pump for flow (it spat the fuel out pretty fierce) I
decided to put the car back together (rehook fuel line and ignition) and
start it up with help from some starting spray down the carb throat.

It started up pretty good (for a close-to-dead battery) and then I shut
it off.  It sounded like it was laying down on 1 or 2 cylinders still.
I let the battery charge up a little with my trickle charger and then I
re-started it.  same thing.  I chose to let it idle and warm up so i can
drive it around to charge the battery.  The car will bog when givel
light throttle from a stop, which could be from a low float level (carb
has never been torn apart) and I heard some added ticking noises, louder
than the exhaust leak I already have.  I also added a bottle of gas
treatment (perhaps the gas had water in it?).  I got it home and put my
timing light on it, as per the sticker.. 20-22 BTDC (from 800 to around
1200 rpm).  Manifold vacuum was 20in.  the needle WOULD fluctuate a TAD
when given light throttle.  I used a screwdriver as a stehescope and put
it on the valvecover so I could hear under the valve covers.

ª1 intake/exhaust sounded fine and so did ª3 intake.  ª3 exhaust sounded
funny, it was clicking and thwapping.  I belive this is what my problem
is.

Tommorrow is Auto shop (Yes!) so i can put my car on the gas analyzer
and also have a journeyman who is also in our class give me his opinion
on what is wrong.

I thank the people on the list who replied to my message and aided me in
repairing my olds.

Mike Jones
'78 Delta 88 2dr..

It's alive!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 20:19:37 -0800
From: Curtis Ratica <ratica@knowware.net>
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Convertible Top Replacement]

Robert J. Lavey wrote:
>
> Hi Curtis,
>
> Thanks for the reply.  Was the $600-$700 with you supplying the parts?
>

No, that was complete, labor and parts...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 20:35:39 -0800
From: Curtis Ratica <ratica@knowware.net>
Subject: Re: 1969 98 conv. for parts

JUNKYARD FIND...

For those in No. California, I was at the picknpull off of Mowry
in Fremont, CA. this weekend.  To my surprise there was a fairly nice
'69 88 Convertible.  Here is as much information as I can remember...

All body panels were in good shape, bumpers were straight, front end
complete and in very good shape (grille, bumper, etc...)

It had the Rocket 455 which was complete, from AC to air cleaner still
with decals... 2bbl.

I don't remember much about the interior, though the dash did
have the gauges missing, all switches were there.  The top frame
was complete, minus the front header and latches, (I took the
latch assemblies)  The top motor was missing, hydraulic pumps were
there...  lines cut.

Not sure why this was parted out...

FYI,

Curtis

'70 Cutlass Supreme Conv 350/4bbl
'90 Ford Bronco EB 351/EFI

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 23:02:39 -0700
From: Tim Rudolph <trudolph@frii.com>
Subject: Year One sale

I don't know if everyone knows about this or anything but I was just
checking up on Year One's web page and noticed they had a 10% off sale on
every item in their catalog from 11/20/97 to 12/31/97.  Thought you all may
be interested.  The URL with the info is http://www.yearone.com/holiday.htm.

Tim Rudolph
trudolph@frii.com
'69 442 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 02:11:49 -0400
From: dfsval@maracaibo.dowell.slb.com (Valiant's Mud Lab)
Subject: alignment

hi Olds Gurus,

I have a question on front wheels alignment:
I took the SERVICE MANUAL SPECIFICATIONS ( CASTER, CAMBER,...) to an
ALIGNMENT SHOP and ASKED them to use these figures to adjust my front end.
WAS I RIGHT OR, AS THEY TOLD ME, WRONG BECAUSE THE CAR IS 25 YEARS OLD????

Thank you.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 23:36:14 -0700
From: Thomas Lindsay <tomlind@micron.net>
Subject: Re: Compression

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Joe,  there are several ways that can be combined to increase
compression and/or performance.  You first need to decide how radical
you want to make your engine and what you want it to do (performance,
max. economy, etc.)

>My first guess would be a head swap along with pistons.  Would I be
correct thus far?

The first thing that I would consider would be replacing the stock cam.
If you are looking for increased response and power/low end there are
several cams on the market today that accomplish this nicely.  Erson's
RV15 and TQ10 provide a nice balance between economy and power for a two
barrel engine.  The TQ20 works VERY nicely on a 4 barrel.  We have
rebuilt several engines, Olds and F*rd, using these cams and have
noticed great improvements.  You can usually get another cam and bearing
for $125.00 to $175.00.

As far as replacing heads and pistons.... again, what do you want your
engine to do and how much are you willing to spend.  Best bet would be
to try talking to a local speed shop and see what they have available
first.  Replacing heads and pistons will increase combustion pressure,
it all depends on what you are trying to do with your engine/car.

Hope this helps.  Tom

(One of the Idaho Trio - see our cars at
http://netnow.micron.net/~tomlind/)

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<HTML>
Joe,&nbsp; there are several ways that can be combined to increase compression
and/or performance.&nbsp; You first need to decide how radical you want
to make your engine and what you want it to do (performance, max. economy,
etc.)

<P>><I>My first guess would be a head swap along with pistons.&nbsp; Would
I be correct thus far?</I>

<P>The first thing that I would consider would be replacing the stock 
cam.&nbsp;
If you are looking for increased response and power/low end there are several
cams on the market today that accomplish this nicely.&nbsp; Erson's RV15
and TQ10 provide a nice balance between economy and power for a two barrel
engine.&nbsp; The TQ20 works VERY nicely on a 4 barrel.&nbsp; We have rebuilt
several engines, Olds and F*rd, using these cams and have noticed great
improvements.&nbsp; You can usually get another cam and bearing for $125.00
to $175.00.

<P>As far as replacing heads and pistons.... again, what do you want your
engine to do and how much are you willing to spend.&nbsp; Best bet would
be to try talking to a local speed shop and see what they have available
first.&nbsp; Replacing heads and pistons will increase combustion pressure,
it all depends on what you are trying to do with your engine/car.

<P>Hope this helps.&nbsp; Tom

<P>(One of the Idaho Trio - see our cars at <A
HREF="http://netnow.micron.net/~tomlind/
">http://netnow.micron.net/~tomlind/</A>
)</HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 01:54:53 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Convertible Top Replacement]

Curtis Ratica wrote:
>
> Robert J. Lavey wrote:
> >
> > Hi Curtis,
> >
> > Thanks for the reply.  Was the $600-$700 with you supplying the parts?
> >
>
> No, that was complete, labor and parts...

For that kind of money I wouldn't even attempt to put it on myself.  I
would say the parts alone would be $300-400 alone.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 01:47:37 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Compression

>Is there a way to increase the compression ratio on a 72 Olds 350
>engine?
>My first guess would be a head swap along with pistons.  Would I be
>correct thus far?

1/2 correct: you've already got the small-chamber heads, so all you need now
are some high-compression pistons. The flat-tops from the W-31 engines were
rated at 10.5:1, and the shallow-dish pistons from the '68-'70 4-bbl motors
were rated at 10.25:1. Actual compression may (will) be a bit lower than that.

Actually, there are other Olds small-block heads that have smaller
combustion chambers, which would raise your engine's compression ratio, but
they don't necessarily flow as well as your ª7a heads, which came through
with the big-block sized exhaust valves (1.62", vs. 1.50" of other 350
heads, and hardened seats to boot!). With the higher compression and (I'm
assuming) hotter cam, you can also move up to the 2.00" intake valve at this
time.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 01:27:40 -0600
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: alignment

- -----Original Message-----
From: Valiant's Mud Lab <dfsval@maracaibo.dowell.slb.com>

>WAS I RIGHT OR, AS THEY TOLD ME, WRONG BECAUSE THE CAR IS 25 YEARS OLD????
>
Did they tell you why you are wrong?

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 05:45:48 -0500 (EST)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: 86 salon =  442 susp ???'s

In a message dated 97-12-01 05:25:10 EST, you write:

<<
 Did all Salons have the F41 suspension package?  It is my understanding
 that the F41 brought the regular Cutlass suspension stuff up to 442-level
 specs, except for the air shocks and wheels/tires of course.  Don't
 Cutlasses without F41 have regular bushings and softer springs and slower
 steering gears, etc.?  With the 1984 and previous at least, the top level
 Cutlass, the Calais, came with lots of options, but not the F41 unless it
 was ordered specifically.  Just making sure...
 _____________________________
  >>
Where on y car would I look for the f41 code??  on the 86 that is.........
thanks.
Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 07:30:59 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: 86 CS Steering Box

John Stolarski wrote:
>
> Well, the 350 installation now has yet another financial set back...I
> now need a new power steering box...so, whats the question you ask? Is
> there any difference between a 1986 Cutlass Supreme steering box and a
> 1986 442 steering box? Would I be better off putting in a 442's, would I
> get a little better steering response out of it?
> Thanks...

Well, the 442's had a quicker ratio box that was the same as the CS box if
you have the F41 suspension.  I have this package and the steering is very
quick.  The replacement of the idler arm made a big difference in the feel
and the PST bushings I had installed made a big difference in the
response.  I'd guess that the 442's quicker ratio box would feel much
better than the regular one.
_____________________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.erols.com/adcockjk

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 07:32:30 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: 86 salon =  442 susp ???'s

RCKTPWR@aol.com wrote:
>
> Where on y car would I look for the f41 code??  on the 86 that is.........

I believe on the sticker under the trunk lid.  I'm about a mile away from
my car now, so I can't verify, but I think every feature installed is on
that sticker: standard features, options, even paint codes.  Hope this
helps.
_____________________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.erols.com/adcockjk

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 07:34:50 -0500
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: alignment

Valiant's Mud Lab wrote:
>
> hi Olds Gurus,
>
> I have a question on front wheels alignment:
> I took the SERVICE MANUAL SPECIFICATIONS ( CASTER, CAMBER,...) to an
> ALIGNMENT SHOP and ASKED them to use these figures to adjust my front end.
> WAS I RIGHT OR, AS THEY TOLD ME, WRONG BECAUSE THE CAR IS 25 YEARS OLD????

YOU were right.  The problem is all the alignment specs are in the
computer, and they don't have anything in there over 25 years old (and
they have to enter the numbers you gave them manually).

About a year ago, after doing some front end work, I needed an alignment
~bad~.  It was a Sunday, so in my stupidity I went to Sears (only 3
miles).  I didn't even think to bring the shop manual.  Picked up the
car 2 hours later, and it pulled terribly.  Got home pullled out the
paperwork and the shop manual and saw the problem, they used the '73
specs which are quite different from '71.

I went right back, with specs in hand, and told them the problem.
"Sure, we'll fix it, but you'll have to wait 4 hours because there are
other people ahead of you." I was told.  I told them my car had already
been in here today, and I felt the job should be fixed ahead of others.
They disagreed, and I said just give me a refund and I'll go somewhere
where they care about the customer.  Are you ready for the response???
He said "OK".  Learned my lesson, Sears Auto is OUT!!!
- --
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 07:49:54 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: alignment

I would use the more modern specs.  The advances in suspension & tires have
shown that the old specs can be improved upon.  Tell the technician that you
want the best specs for your type of driving, tires, & suspension
improvements.  Note these settings & compare the difference to your old
settings.  Decide for yourself if you wish to continue the new specs.  I
believe that you will.

Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
Decatur, Alabama
'62 Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 convertible


>hi Olds Gurus,
>
>I have a question on front wheels alignment:
>I took the SERVICE MANUAL SPECIFICATIONS ( CASTER, CAMBER,...) to an
>ALIGNMENT SHOP and ASKED them to use these figures to adjust my front end.
>WAS I RIGHT OR, AS THEY TOLD ME, WRONG BECAUSE THE CAR IS 25 YEARS OLD????
>
>Thank you.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 22:28:55 -0500
From: "Kerr, Brian (R)" <kerrb@basf-corp.com>
Subject: Disc brake swap

I have heard some conflicting reports on the disc brake swap. I have a set
of discs from a '70 Monte Carlo including Upper and lower arms. I want to
put them on my 69 Cutlass. The upper and lower arms have less rust than the
 Monte Carlo arms, so I wanted to leave the upper and lower arms on the car,
and only switch the spindles. The guy I got them from claims that one of the
arms upper or lower is different. Is he correct, or can I use my original
upper and lower arms?

Brian Kerr
69 Cutlass S conv

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 10:14:39 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: alignment

I heard from a veteran mechanic a few years ago that the original
alignment specs on '60s and early '70s cars were designed for bias-ply
tires. I seem to recall him saying that the toe-in adjustment should
have been changed when you went to radials.

I know that if the alignment guy can dial in an extra degree or two of
caster, regardless of what the specs say, it seems to help these older
cars ability to track accurately in highway driving.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 09:11:47 -0500
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: diff lube

Chris,
being exact was not my point. I wanted to know how much fluid to
buy. Don't want to be caught short only to leave it and go buy more
fluid later.
Fernando Proietto
A. Manager
Systems Analyst - Informatics

Environment Canada
Ontario Region - Monitoring & Systems Branch
4905 Dufferin St.
Downsview, Ontario
M3H 5T4

> ----------
> From: Chris Brown Witt[SMTP:wittchri@pilot.msu.edu]
> Sent: Saturday, November 29, 1997 11:48 AM
> To: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu; oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: diff lube
>
> Does anyone know what capacity a 10 bolt with W-27 cover have? I just
> changed the diff and I'm going to install a W-27 cover. How much oil
> does the diff take? The '72 chassis man. says 2.5 pints. What does
> that
> relate to in metric figures please?  Fernando Proietto
> --followed by--
> From: Benjamin Ray Cook <bc3273@cs.cs.appstate.edu>
> Subject: Re: Read end oil capacity
>
> Fill it up until it runs out the hole or you can touch it through the
> hole.I think you should pay someone else to work on your car...
> ==============
>
> Jeez, that seems a little extreme. Oh, Mr. Congeniality! Of course.
> Trying to
> take over my position...
>
> What BRC says is correct, however. Just go buy 2 qts/ litres/ jugs/
> whatever,
> and fill it till the lube is at or near the fill hole level. More is
> OK, less
> is OK if not too much less. Never mind *exactly* how much it takes,
> it's not
> like you're adding it with a burette, anyhow, right?
> --
> Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca
> [Lansing, MI]
> *the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 08:29:30 -0600
From: Greg Skonberg <skonberg.g@lchs.lake.k12.il.us>
Subject: Mime-Version: 1.0

unsubscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 09:32:11 +0000
From: ejhufnagel@juno.com (Edward J. Hufnagel)
Subject: Re: Hydro-Boost, was(Diesel brake conversion)

On Sun, 30 Nov 1997 08:25:34 -0600 katana72@juno.com (Rob T) writes:
>I had a 79 Diesel car that was converted to gas. It had a power
>steering pump that had an extra outlet that fed the brake booster.(
>Wish I had kept that assembly) It seemed pretty straightforward to me.


         This is called a "Hydro-Boost" system.  I had one on a Ch*vy
truck at one time.  Damn are those pumps expensive when they go!!  I also
have the complete Hydro-boost set up from a 1980 Olds Toro I will be
willing to sell for $200.00 complete.  This includes Master Cylinder,
Hydro-Boost unit, all lines and the power steering pump.  Shipping
included

         E.J.
         New York

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 97 10:12:34 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: Disc brake swap


Brian Kerr asked:

..I have a set of discs from a '70 Monte Carlo including Upper and lower
arms. I want to put them on my 69 Cutlass...Is he correct, or can I use my
original upper and lower arms?

     Brian,

     This is a bolt-on.  The ball joints (both upper and lower) are the
     same for a 70 Monte and your 69, so the disc brake spindles will bolt
     on.  The only difference in A-arms that may exist are the lower
     control arm bushings, which can be either round or oval in cross
     section.  This will _not_ have any impact on your use of the discs.

     As has been noted here in the past, be sure to get the master
     cylinder, proportioning valve, and the infamous brake hose frame
     brackets from the donor car.  In addition, the flare nuts are unique
     (in order to prevent incorrect installation on the assembly line, GM
     used different thread sizes on the nuts) so you may want to score the
     master cylinder to proportioning valve to junction block hard lines
     from the donor car as well.

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 10:15:42 -0500
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: Rear end oil capacity -  & TYPE

Ultimately that is the way I will fill the diff, however my
initial concern was having bought enough oil. I don't want to start
filling only to find out that I don't have enough oil for the job. Hence
my concern. I have 3 Litres, that should be enough with some left over.


Since this is a limited-slip unit I also am going to use GM's friction
modifier. A little 4oz bottle  was given to me. Was told to pour entire
bottle into the diff and then add the regular oil. Anyone know
different?

Fernando Proietto
A. Manager
Systems Analyst - Informatics

Environment Canada
Ontario Region - Monitoring & Systems Branch
4905 Dufferin St.
Downsview, Ontario
M3H 5T4

> ----------
> From: Dave Ward[SMTP:ward@ptbo.igs.net]
> Sent: Sunday, November 30, 1997 5:51 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Read end oil capacity
>
> Proietto, Fernando [Ontario] wrote:
>
> >>>Actually I looked in the chassis manual again this morning and it's
> 4.25
> >>>pints for a 10 bolt cover and 5.5 for a 12 bolt cover diff. Dave
> you
> >>>understood my confusion right away. Does the chassis manual report
> >>>capacities in American standard for use the Imperial British
> standard?
>
> Hmm..to tough to call.  I've never actually flipped through a chassis
> manual before in my life, but I'd lay odds that it's listed in U.S.
> units.  (I've now learned that it's the U.S. gallon that's 3.78L).
>
> Which cover do you have?  A pint is equal to 475ml (approx.), so if
> you're using the 10 bolt, it should be around 2020mL, or 2.02 litres.
> If you're using the 12 bolt diff cover, it'll be about 2.61 litres.
>
> I've only changed a rear end oil once, and I was given these
> instructions:  just fill it through the inspection hole to capacity,
> then remove the funnel tip, and observe how much drains out.  If it's
> just a trickle (or none at all), keep filling, and then check it
> again.
> If it flows out at a decent rate, just put the plug back in and call
> it
> a day.
>
> I'm not sure if that's the G.M. mechanic's version, or the Shadetree
> mechanic version.  I serviced the open rear end in my '78 Delta this
> way, and it hasn't complained at all (knock on wood!).  I'm not 100%
> sure if it's different for a posi or lim-slip rear end.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 10:14:49 -0500 (EST)
From: DDMRACER@aol.com
Subject: Hurst 442 trans swap parts info

Hi all
          i've got a  72 442 that was a 350 4spd car someone
          changed over to auto. as close as i can tell, the only
          olds specific parts i need to change it back is the
          bellhousing and the flywheel. is this correct? the car
          still has the clutch pedal and the z-bar pivot ball is on
          the engine. the z-bar is in the trunk. i have both a m-21
          muncie and an old saginaw 4 spd trans laying around
          in the shop. which one would be correct? if anyone has
          a bellhousing and/or flywheel for sale or trade please
          let me know. i will have a strong th350, console and
          shifter up for grabs. thanks

ddmracer@aol.com
Duane Miller
Belton SC

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 10:17:34 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: g-body carb question

Rich Meyers wrote:
>
> several hundred rpm. I know that's normal. The problem is that it is reving
> very high at start up, @4000rpm, and even after I tap the gas it only goes
> down to @3000rpm. When I shift into gear it really jerks the car.

I had this problem during a very short time period last winter.  The car
would idle pretty fast.  I'd say around 1500 rpm; I have the stock
tachometer too, and they are very inaccurate.  Anyway, the motor was idling
at 1500 RPM I'd guess.  I couldn't figure out the problem.  After work,
someone went out and checked under the hood and heard a hissing sound.
Sure enough, one of the vacuum hoses was frayed and had come off the
nipple.

> I've checked the vacuum hoses and they all appear to be okay.

Hmm.  The one that came off my car was waaay in the back, behind and kinda
under the carb.  Make sure you don't hear a hissing sound under the hood
when the motor's at idle.  Hope this helps...
_____________________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.erols.com/adcockjk

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Nov 1997 22:24:28 -0600
From: Rob Leatherwood <robl@abcomputers.com>
Subject: Cutlass Only?

Is there a list that just for Cutlasses only, not that I have any against a ' 
01
curve dash its just that I don't own one? ============================ Rob
Leatherwood Applied Business Computers 9655 Richmond Ave.
 Houston, TX 77063-3731 Ph: 713.953.1556 Fax 713.430-0938 Email:
robl@abcomputers.com Web: http://www.abcomputers.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 10:51:42 -0500 (EST)
From: J2ROCKET@aol.com
Subject: Re: '56 Olds breather tube question (H.D. VERSUS STANDARD)

     Hello Roland, it sounds like the draft tube that you have now was the
optional heavy duty version with the removable (clamped on) lower mesh
 serviceable filter inside. The standard version was just a plain steel
tubing going down into the under car airstream and cut at a 45 degree angle
with the longer portion of the angle facing the FRONT of the car in order to
produce the necessary vacumn effect on the crankcase. You can just extend
your tube that you have now down and make the angle cut and join it with hose
and clamps or try to find the original heavy duty lower section and filter
assembly. There is no real need to have the heavy duty model. It was only
built for cars operated on dirt roads. Not as many dirt roads now as there
were in 1956.                               Good hearing from again
     J2ROCKET
     57 Olds Super 88
     55 Olds Super 88

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 07:50:14 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: Wanted: OL4B experience

- ---Chris Brown Witt <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu> wrote:
OK, so, I have these two old OL4B intakes<SNIP>And, does it fit w/ an
HEI?

!!!!!!!
Neither the OL4B or O4B(big block) manifolds will work with HEI. The
current Edelbrock Performer intakes are updates of these ~old~ but
still serviceable dual-plane designs. I have an O4B gathering
dust.....I intend to try it someday!

===
John Pajak                            JSPajak@rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland  HTTP://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

65 Delta 88 2dr    70 Cutlass S 2dr       72 Cutlass conv
66 Toronado deluxe 70 Cutlass S W31       72 Delta 88 conv
69 Cutlass S 2dr   70 442 W30 conv        72 442 W30 conv
70 Cutlass S 2dr   71 Cutlass Supreme 2dr 86 Cutlass Supreme



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 08:01:12 PST
From: "John Stolarski" <oldscs350@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Cutlass Only?

>Is there a list that just for Cutlasses only, not that I have any
against a ' 01 curve dash its just that I don't own one?
>============================
>Rob Leatherwood


Rob,
I know its seems like there are a ton of Cutlass ?'s on this server, but
the beauty of having all Olds on here is that you have access to the
knowledge of MANY Olds guru's....even if they don't have Cutlass' they
still know Olds' like they back of their hand! I'm willing to sort
through all the other messages for that...


John


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 97 11:05:43 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: Hurst 442 trans swap parts info

Duane Miller wrote:

..72 442 that was a 350 4spd car someone changed over to auto. as close as i
can tell, the only olds specific parts i need to change it back is the
bellhousing and the flywheel. is this correct?

     I'm assuming here that the 350 currently in the car is the original
     engine, so it will have a crank already drilled for a pilot bushing.  If
     the current 350 is not the original, there is a high probability that
     the crank will not be drilled.  Note that the fact that the pivot ball
     is still on the engine indicates that it _is_ the original unit.

..the car still has the clutch pedal and the z-bar pivot ball is on the
engine. the z-bar is in the trunk...

     I assume you have the clutch pedal-to-z-bar link and the z-bar-to-clutch
     fork links.  Since the car was originally a 4spd, the clutch safety
     switch is probably still in place, though probably bypassed.  You'll
     probably want to reconnect it.

i have both a m-21 muncie and an old saginaw 4 spd trans laying around in the
shop. which one would be correct?

     The Muncie is the correct trans.  Just be careful of the tailhousing - I
     seem to recall that Ch*vy units have the speedo cable coming out of the
     opposite side as the Olds units.

if anyone has a bellhousing and/or flywheel for sale or trade please let me
know. i will have a strong th350, console and shifter up for grabs. thanks

     A couple of other things to consider:

     Speedo cable.  The MT may need a different one (or was the original
     one simply hooked up to the AT?  I think the 4spd cables are longer)

     Backdrive linkage.  The backup lights are operated by a switch on the
     steering column (it is the same switch which also contains the neutral
     start switch for AT applications).  Since the Feds required the trans
     to be locked with the steering column, both AT and MT applications
     used a backdrive linkage which connected to an arm at the base of the
     steering column.  This linkage connected to the reverse arm of the
     4spd and required the car to be in reverse to lock the ignition and
     remove the key.  It also served to activate the switch on the steering
     column to operate the backup lights.  The first question is: was this
     linkage reinstalled with the AT?  The second question is:  do you
     care?  The backdrive linkage must be removed to install headers
     anyway.  I've done this on my 70 W-30 and just do without the
     interlock.  In order to operate the backup lights I simply rotate the
     collar on the steering column, which in turn puts the switch into
     contact.  You can also buy a backup light switch kit from Hurst.

     Driveshaft yolk.  The TH350 yolk should be the same as the one on your
     4spd, but check it to be sure.  Driveshaft length is obviously the
     same.

     Shifter.  Are you planning to retain the console to go with the MT?
     Olds used the same basic console for all applications (3spd, 4spd,
     auto, and dual gate).  In the MT applications, there is an adapter
     which goes on the top of the console to mate to the shifter boot.
     Good luck finding one if you don't already have one.

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30





------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 10:20:15 -0600
From: Daniel Dale <daleds@okra.millsaps.edu>
Subject: RE: Full Size Dual Exhaust

All this work might not be necessary.  On my 76 98 I had a local muffler shop
run dual 2.5" pipes under the crossmember on the pass. side since it was
a single hump design.  They both fit under it together with no problem.
The shop just bent the dr. side back over where it belongs after crossing
under.  I'm sure this hurts flow a little, but it was alot easier
than trying to find the right crossmember and swapping it out.

Dan Dale
btw-does ANYONE have a couple of right hand dual exhaust manifolds to
fit a 455???  both my 72 and my 76 98's need them.
thanks

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 10:22:51 -0600
From: "Paul L. Brillhart" <PBRILL1@uic.edu>
Subject: Re: Hurst 442 trans swap parts info

Padavano.Joe wrote:

>
>
>      A couple of other things to consider:
>
>      Driveshaft yolk.  The TH350 yolk should be the same as the one on
> your
>      4spd, but check it to be sure.  Driveshaft length is obviously
> the
>      same.

Are you sure?  I've gone from an auto to a four speed in a Ford before
and the lengths were different.

>
>
>      Shifter.  Are you planning to retain the console to go with the
> MT?
>      Olds used the same basic console for all applications (3spd,
> 4spd,
>      auto, and dual gate).  In the MT applications, there is an
> adapter
>      which goes on the top of the console to mate to the shifter boot.
>
>      Good luck finding one if you don't already have one.
>

Also, is the trans mount interchangeable from an automatic to a
manual?You may want to plug the trans coolant input/outputs to the
radiator.  If nothing else, it'll keep crap from getting in there and
rotting it from the inside out.

>      Joe Padavano
>      padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>      66 442
>      68 W-30
>      69 H/O
>      70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 08:30:38 -0800
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Window fuzzies

Hi,

Does anyone know who supplies all of the "correct" original style
window weatherstrips (8 pieces - 4 inner/4 outer)?  I don't want
to go through Year One, etal.  I want the guy's name who does all
of these.  A friend of mine who is into restorations wants to be able
to use these kind of weatherstrips.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 10:39:19 -0600
From: "babbott@pdnt.com" <babbott@pdnt.com>
Subject: I'm gonna have to sell my Cutlass

Im gonna sell my '70 Cutlass Supreme. 455 9.75 compression, N.O.S cheater,
3.90 12 bolt posi.,dark blue w/ dark blue vynil top, draglites, blue bench
seat with a 2" tear in the drivers seat. The quarters have a couple of
small bubbles and the panel behind the back window is ate-up but not
through yet. Otherwise the body is spotless. The car runs consistent 7.50s
on the spray and 8.30s without (eighth mile of course). I have no clue what
to ask for it as I have spent way more than it's worth. I am near
Champaign,IL. God, this makes me sick.......I need to win the lottery.
Eric Phillips   babbott@pdnt.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 11:40:10 -0500 (EST)
From: Shaun Miller <smille02@astro.ocis.temple.edu>
Subject: dead battery in calais

Hey all happy turkey day!!

     I usually dont have a question for you people, mainly because i
rarely see my car in New York.  My question is:  I have an 89 calais with
the q4 in it and an alarm and the battery constantly dies.  i have put 2
new batteries in it so far (not cheap ones either, the ones used in
cadillacs).  THe last one put in lasted for about a week and died.  I
know the alarm dosent suck that much juice.  has anyone else had a
similar problem.  Lets make this a simple solution, so cadillac roadside
assistance dosent experience anymore "missing" batteries.

thanks all
Heres one person that dosent own a cutlass for the person that asked

shaun
81 custom cruiser
89 calais gold edition

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 11:07:02 -0600
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: OAI scoops, cheap and plentiful

Disassembling a '76 Delta 88, I noticed the plastic air intake, when
turned horizontal, could be used as the intake for a home brewed OAI
setup. This intake is located on the driver's side, between the radiator
and the battery. Air cleaners also feature about a 4" diameter intake.
And they're off . . .
- --
David Brown     Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.0 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
  http://nero.dyn.ml.org/~da_bomb/oldsfaq/oldsfaq4.htm

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds
  http://nero.dyn.ml.org/~da_bomb/oldsfaq/zip/oldsfaq4.zip

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 12:20:14 -0500
From: "VanSant, David CWO" <DVanSant@lantd5.uscg.mil>
Subject: RE: dead battery in calais

Shaun,

It may be that you have a bad ground or a loose connection somewhere in
the alarm system.  I had the same problem with an Apache alarm system in
my truck and tracked it down to a bad connection grounding itself
against an inner door post.


Dave Van Sant
dvansant@lantd5.uscg.mil
'71 Topless Cutlass Supreme
'88 Plymouth Sundance
'89 Chevrolet Astro
>'96 Plymouth Neon DOHC

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 12:21:50 -0700
From: Gary Manton <sasgmm@unx.sas.com>
Subject: '64 Hood springs

I am looking to replace my hood springs for my 64 Dynamic 88, and have had
no luck.   I have called a slew of dealers, and to no avail, and have
checked with the kanter, fusick, usa parts, year one catalogs and no luck.
The only clue I have gotten so far, is that I can get the hood springs for
an F-85 from '64 but they have a different part number than that of the
Dynamic 88.  The Dynamics' have been discontinued.  I am trying to avoid the
yards, as I want new springs.

Two things, does anyone know of where to find new springs?  Are the springs
from an F-85 compatible?

Thanks again for all of your help.

G
          \\|//
          (o o)
~~~~~~oOOo~(_)~oOOo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Gary M. MantonSAS Institute
Business Solutions DivisionPhoenix, AZ  85012
(602) 265-1616 ext. 230 - voice        (602) 265-8585 - fax
(888) 982-4079 - Pager

"In business as in life, your chances of being run over are doubled
if you stay in the middle of the road"
~~~~~~oooo~~~~~oooo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 09:44:49 PST
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Air cleaner woes

I had to put a timing chain in my 350 recently, so when I tore the
engine down I decided it was a good opportunity to add the 4bbl setup I
had as well as clean up the 350's appearance (never seen a daily driver
with an engine this rusty before).
To make a long story short (not one of my strong points), I finished the
repairs and cleaned and painted the engine and brackets. Yesterday I
finally got around to painting the air cleaner and adding the decals.
Here's the problem:
I trashed the silver 'rocket 350' decal.
There are two reasons for this-

1) The f'n thing started to wrinkle the minute I started to pull the
backing off. Does anyone have any hints on how to get one of these on an
air cleaner intact?!

2) The decal was too big. Not a lot, but enough. Did Oldsmobile make a
4bbl air cleaner that would have been slightly (read 3/8") smaller in
the area that the deal goes?

The engine is a 1970. The intake is a 1971. The air cleaner fits OK and
even lines up with the steel pre-heat tube.
Is this the wrong air cleaner or is Fusick's decal to big??

Thanks everyone,

Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 13:01:58 -0500
From: IRONMAN <jev114@email.psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Compression

At 01:47 AM 12/1/97 -0500, you wrote:

>>Is there a way to increase the compression ratio on a 72 Olds 350

>>engine?

get your heads shaved at the machine shop, .030 to .060 off the surface of the
head will easily raised your compression to 10.5 or more. and it's lots cheaper
than changing pistons, and lots less work. also consider a thinner head gasket.
i have found very thin solid copper head gaskets don't blow that easy, and are
reusable.




<center><paraindent><param>out,out</param>Jeff Verkleeren

<bold><color><param>ffff,0000,0000</param>Scholar -- Gentleman  --  Judge
of Beautiful Women and Fine Whiskey

</color></bold></paraindent>Mechanical Engineering

Penn State University

</center>mailto:jev114@psu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 13:03:10 -0500
From: <Francis_Niestemski@ucamp.com>
Subject: 67 Olds 98 Replacement Engine

Does anyone have any experience or info on swapping out the original 425
engine with a  brand new GM motor.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 12:43:13 -0600
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: Oil Pan

Wait a second, you're asking whether you can pull the pan off a Toronado
engine (still installed in a Toronado) without jacking up the engine?

Well, I've got good news and bad news for you:

The good news is that you don't have to worry about jacking up the
engine.

The bad news is that you have to *pull* the engine entirely to get the
pan
off of it. The transmission housing completely blocks the oil-pan bolts
on
the driver's side; you can't even touch them with your fingers, never
mind
with a wrench or socket.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
- --
Yeah, oh, dang!!! Well, maybe I'll get one. Heck, I'll be an expert by
then! :) Maybe I'll get one. Thanks for the info!
- ----------
David Brown     Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.0 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
  http://nero.dyn.ml.org/~da_bomb/oldsfaq/oldsfaq4.htm

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds
  http://nero.dyn.ml.org/~da_bomb/oldsfaq/zip/oldsfaq4.zip

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 12:50:58 -0600
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: Mobil 1

(the oil was only a couple days old, and it looked like it
has five thousand miles on it...black as coal.)
- --
Synthetic is much more detergent than regular oil, thus it will loosen
up much more "gunk" than conventional oil. With this in mind, it might
be good to do a couple of 500 mile oil changes first. Heck skip the
synthetic if over 40,000 miles, and if the vehicle has seen less than
regular oil changes. Today's regular oil should take just about any
engine to 150,000 miles.
- ----------
David Brown     Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.0 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
  http://nero.dyn.ml.org/~da_bomb/oldsfaq/oldsfaq4.htm

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds
  http://nero.dyn.ml.org/~da_bomb/oldsfaq/zip/oldsfaq4.zip

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 10:39:08 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: Olds 445 cams

- ---Rich Inacker <rinacker@voicenet.com> wrote:
Now a question: has anyone out there had any experience with JM's larger
cams ? <SNIP>Anyone used the JM-22/25 or 25/28 ? Impressions ?

!!!!!
     My 72 W30 convertible has a 22-25 in its 455 motor. It has Ga
heads, '70 10.25:1 pistons, headers, stock (little!) exhaust and stock
intake/Qjet. It has power disc brakes and they do work: idle vacuum is
about 10-12". It does idle a bit rough but goes anywhere without
overheating (12 MPG). The drivetrain is a TH400 with 11" converter and
 3.42s. With L60-15s on the back it went a best of 13.31 @100 (4050
lbs). Sometimes I wish I'd gotten the 20-22 instead. No big deal. The
car is nearing restoration and will soon receive a ~correct~ motor :)


John Pajak                            JSPajak@rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland  HTTP://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

65 Delta 88 2dr    70 Cutlass S 2dr       72 Cutlass conv
66 Toronado deluxe 70 Cutlass S W31       72 Delta 88 conv
69 Cutlass S 2dr   70 442 W30 conv        72 442 W30 conv
70 Cutlass S 2dr   71 Cutlass Supreme 2dr 86 Cutlass Supreme

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 13:57:43 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: dead battery in calais

Shaun Miller wrote:
>
>      I usually dont have a question for you people, mainly because i
> rarely see my car in New York.  My question is:  I have an 89 calais with
> the q4 in it and an alarm and the battery constantly dies.  i have put 2
> new batteries in it so far (not cheap ones either, the ones used in
> cadillacs).  THe last one put in lasted for about a week and died.  I

Could it just be a bad alternator, or an alternator that is "going away"
and provides charge intermittently?  Nobody's mentioned that yet, so I
thought I'd throw it out.
_____________________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.erols.com/adcockjk

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 14:08:42 -0500 (EST)
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stroking an Olds?

well, i wish i could tell you how to get in touch with him, but my dad hasent
talked to him in years and i think he has since moved.  doh!!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 13:11:09 -0500
From: Ray Moriarty <rmoriarty@blairinc.com>
Subject: Re: Air cleaner woes

At 09:44 AM 12/1/97 PST, you wrote:
>...Yesterday I
>finally got around to painting the air cleaner and adding the decals.
>Here's the problem:
>I trashed the silver 'rocket 350' decal.
>There are two reasons for this-
>
>1) The f'n thing started to wrinkle the minute I started to pull the
>backing off. Does anyone have any hints on how to get one of these on an
>air cleaner intact?! ...

Try a *wet* application.
Any decal: Just before you apply the decal, spray the mounting surface and
the back of the decal with a soapy water mixture. This does two things.
First, it reduces the tack of the decal's adhesive, allowing easy
repositioning. Second, it reduces the static electricity on the decal,
making the decal easier to handle. When working with vinyl or mylar decals,
I prefer a diluted Windex solution (3:1 water to Windex). Do not use Windex
with paper decals. The blue dye can stain the paper. In general, any liquid
soap will work, but keep the mixture light on the soap. Once you have the
decal positioned where you want it, gently *squeegee* the mixture out,
starting from the middle and working out to the edge. Dry the surrounding
area. The decal will be dry and permanent in about 24 hours.

Stinkin' curvy air cleaner decals (if they are not paper): Create a clean,
flat, clean, stable, clean workspace. Lay the decal face down on the
workspace. Peel back one corner of the decal and spray the exposed adhesive
with the solution. Hold the wet adhesive and peel the backing back slowly
(you did clean your hands before you started, didn't you?). Stop at regular
intervals to spray the exposed adhesive. When the backing is completely
removed douse the decal. Make sure no dirt has found its way through your
clean workspace onto your clean decal. Now douse the air cleaner lid. When
you are thinking "Wouldn't this be easier to do under water" you are using
enough solution. :) Pick up the decal and lay it on the lid, but before you
let go, get the decal as close as you can to its final position. Because,
as you push it around, the pressure from your fingers can cause the decal
to stick. However, if you used enough solution, you should be able to
remove the decal without damage. If you do remove the decal remember to
douse the lid again before your second attempt. Once you have the decal in
place gently *squeegee* it down. Remove the excess solution from the lid by
either following the same pattern as the squeegeing or by blotting. Do not
rub anything in from the edge of the decal until it is dry.

Hope it helps
Ray
Alexandria, VA
'70 Cutlass Conv.
'70 442 Conv.

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª981
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