
oldsmobile-digest       Monday, October 27 1997       Volume 01 : Number 924



Hello?
unsubscribe
Re: Halls Salvage
a dealer for oldsmobiles
belt power
oldsmobile blue-prints
Water Pumps
Re Cold Heater
H/O lightning rod shifters 
Re: Title Search; okla. list member, w30442cs@aol.com
Re: Title Search; reply
Re: whats the HP of a '70 350 cid
Re: Rare Toro?
Re: Water Pumps
Dash lights repair
1969 convertable schmatics
Re: Water Pumps
Re: belt power
Flywheel H*LP!!!!
Re: New Carpet for D-88...
Re: Dash lights repair
Re: 7a vs 7A heads
Code meanings????
Gage Pack find...
Re: New Carpet for D-88...
Re: Flywheel H*LP!!!!
Cars for Sale
Re: Code meanings????
RE:W41 spotted
Olds Ralley Pack
Re: Olds Ralley Pack
Where's the FAQ?
radio brackets
Re: 7a vs 7A heads
PAW 403
PARTS: C&M 
Re: 200-4R HELP!
Re: 7a vs 7A heads
Sad Story...
Re: PAW 403
Re: H/O lightning rod shifters 
Re: TH200 trans cores for WHAT?
Re: 7a vs 7A heads
Re: Water Pumps
A/C Question
Re: A/C Question
SS1's for sale
subscribe
Re: A/C Question
Re: Flywheel H*LP!!!!
Racing parts
'62 Cutlass and '62 Jetfire

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 01:48:36 -0500
From: JR <joertexas@earthlink.net>
Subject: Hello?

I've either been dropped off of this list or it's been reeeeal quiet...

JR

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 08:39:53 +0100
From: "archy van wely" <usicon@pi.net>
Subject: unsubscribe

I'll be back.
Changing provider.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 00:25:42 -0400
From: "Kerr, Brian (R)" <kerrb@basf-corp.com>
Subject: Re: Halls Salvage

 ----------
Everett:
When you get a list compiled, can you send me one also?

Brian Kerr
69 Cutlass conv

kerrb@basf-corp.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 08:31:34 -0800
From: "David, Terri and Rob" <hoagie@emeraldis.com>
Subject: a dealer for oldsmobiles

hey guys,
	here's a source for clean southern oldsmobiles he has several 
tornado's and 50's oldsmobiles....he has a web site its lynncooper.com 
his dealership is in Clinton, South Carolina and all his vehicles were 
local cars sold out of his dealership that he bought back from the 
original owners....go take a look...Hoagie

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 09:13:35 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: belt power

Subject: Re: Remove a/c belt for HP

regardless of what is being turned, a belt sucks up 4 or 5 horsepower
==================
I'd have to disagree with that. It just does not make any sense. Power is
determined by how much torque is being delivered, and at what speed. Sure, a
belt free-wheeling over a pulley will draw SOME power, and the added inertial
loads will slow accelerations somewhat, but... turning on the A/C has GOT to
add a lot more drag on the motor than just spinning its pulley.

So, if the item can be disabled [turn off AC, unplug alt., etc.] that'll be a
big gain typically. Big in this arena, that is, not big compared to launching
3800# of car down the 1/4 mile.  Taking the belt right off would be a very
small addtional gain, and taking the whole system off will be another small
weight saving gain. Guess that's why racers tend to use electric water pumps &
even magneto ignition systems.

- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 09:10:18 -0600
From: "Gregory A. Heims" <heims.gregory@mcleodusa.net>
Subject: oldsmobile blue-prints

I'm looking for actual blue-prints (not just motor specs) of the 455ci
olds motor.                
                             Thanks,
                                   Greg

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 10:19:00 -0500 (EST)
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: Water Pumps

Perusing my latest JEGS catalog I found not one listing for a
'performance'/HD water pump for an Olds. Since I do need one for the 455 I'm
building ( .060 over, forged 10:1 pistons, HD oil pump, balanced, full
Edelbrock Performer cam/intake/carb )  I called them. And indeed, they do not
have one supplier that makes a water pump for my 455.
I'm a bit leery of just going to my local Trak Auto and using one of their
off the shelf units. Any recommendations out there /experiences/ sources?
CoupeKing

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 10:22:31 -0500 (EST)
From: BigEJ@aol.com
Subject: Re Cold Heater

You write:
>They didn't delete the "off" position, they simply moved it over to the
slide
>control.  The fan switch could be left on "high" and when the slide was
moved
>to "off" the fan was "off".  If the temp slide bar is on "warm" and there is
>cold
>air coming in then I believe there is something in error....TIM

If you have a non-A/C full sized 1978 Olds look at the panel, there will be
no "off" either on the fan control or on the slide.  If the car has either
A/C system there will be an off position on the slide.  This has caused lots
of mis understandings both now and when these cars were new.

The 1978 owners manual describes the operation like this: "To Turn System
Off-Move the top lever to OFF.  The blower will continue to operate at low
speed whenever the ignition is in RUN bringing outside air through the heater
outlet."  (page 33).

There are numerous references in the manual to this "safety" feature, and
believe me, it caused lots of complaints when these cars were new.

This system first started with the 71 full sized Olds.  The early 71's even
had a grill on the top of the trunk to bring fresh air into the back of the
car.  A few months of Michigan, New England, etc weather conviced the fallicy
of bringing fresh (COLD!!) air into the back seat floor area of the car.  So
the late 71's had no grill!

I don't know if GM is still using this system on any of its new cars, outside
of work trucks I haven't had any new GM cars since 1988 and I don't work with
them any more.  GM was still powering the blower when the ignition was on in
the eightys, at least on some cars.

Hope this helps explain this very strange operation.

Elephant Engine Ernie

67 442
50  88

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 10:34:21 -0500 (EST)
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: H/O lightning rod shifters 

Has any one tried to put these in a 72 cutlass? Are they made for an
overdrive tranny? I have a 700R4 in my 72 cutlass and im wondering if they
might fit, with some modifications to the console.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 10:45:16 -0500 (EST)
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Title Search; okla. list member, w30442cs@aol.com

yep, thats me!,  im an okie!  i have filed for several lost , or rebuild
(salvage) titles.  the last one i did was on a 71 442 i found in a salvage
back in 95.  they keep changing the rules you go by for getting replacement
titles so you might want to call and double ckeck  as to what is needed.
  you need to contact the OKLAHOMA TAX COMMISSION







                                                                         2501
lincoln blvd.


































                                                                     oklahoma
city, oklahoma zip-73194         ph #  1-(405)-521-3344  ask for leins
department i think they can help you, but if it`s no longer their department
they can transfer you to the right department.
                             hope this helps, steven. w30442cs@aol.com
        

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 11:11:13 -0500 (EST)
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Title Search; reply

okla. tax commission , 2501 lincoln blvd. oklahoma city, oklahoma  zip-73194,
            ph # 1-(405)-521-3344 , ask for liens department.       just in
case first email didn`t take!     steven. w30442cs@aol.com   

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 11:03:11 +0000
From: Kim Tucker <ktucker1@flash.net>
Subject: Re: whats the HP of a '70 350 cid

HELP ME!  SINCE SINGING ON WITH YOUR OLDSMOBILE SITE I'VE BEEN DELUGED
WITH EMAIL...I CAN'T HANDLE IT.

PLEASE REMOVE MY ADDRESS FROM YOUR FILES ASAP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


KIM TUCKER
KTUCKER1@FLASH.NET

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 11:24:34 -0800
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: Rare Toro?

Yeah, I thought that too, but I just types 'em as they appear in the paper.
Thank God it's not one of those rear wheel drive small block toros, you can
find those on any street corner :-)

Chris Brown Witt wrote:

> '67 Olds Toronado, project car.  FWD Big block, runs & drives.  Good for
> parts or restoration.  $475 OBO.  509-326-5623, Jim.
> ========================
>
> imagine that, a front wheel drive Toronado! Hey, with a BIG block motor?!
> Whew, talk about rare!
>
> Wait, maybe that's FOUR wheel drive Toro?!
>
> Heh. Kinda redundantly repetitive, is it not?
> --
> Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
> *the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 11:27:12 -0800
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: Water Pumps

GM Performance Parts lists an Aluminum HD water pump for an Olds.  I have no
experience with this part and I'm sure it's not cheap.

Otherwise, NAPA offers both new and rebuilt units.  On something that takes as
much labor to change as a water pump, I opted to spend the extra $20 for the new
unit.

COUPEKING@aol.com wrote:

> Perusing my latest JEGS catalog I found not one listing for a
> 'performance'/HD water pump for an Olds. Since I do need one for the 455 I'm
> building ( .060 over, forged 10:1 pistons, HD oil pump, balanced, full
> Edelbrock Performer cam/intake/carb )  I called them. And indeed, they do not
> have one supplier that makes a water pump for my 455.
> I'm a bit leery of just going to my local Trak Auto and using one of their
> off the shelf units. Any recommendations out there /experiences/ sources?
> CoupeKing

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 97 14:41:20 EST
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Dash lights repair

 I need some suggestions on getting the dash lights to work on my '69 4-4-2.
At this time only about half of them light.  I've replaced the headlight
switch as well as the mini bulbs in the dash to no avail.  I'm not sure
where to go from here.  I've checked the FAQ but don't see anything in there
relating to this problem.  Anybody have any ideas?


  Glenn
  '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 13:50:07 -0600
From: John Foster <jdfoster@n-link.com>
Subject: 1969 convertable schmatics

Hi, 
	I have been looking for the electrical schematic for convertable tops. 
I have looked in the chasis service manual and the body manual.	
Does anyone know where to look?

					thanks 

		`				John

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 14:47:31 -0500
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Water Pumps

> GM Performance Parts lists an Aluminum HD water pump for an Olds.  I have no
> experience with this part and I'm sure it's not cheap.
> 
Be careful, this may be a pump for the hybrid Olds big-block race
motor.  It would tend to look like a ch*vy pump.

Also, it would be wise to ensure you got the one correct for your car. 
Air or no-air makes a difference, as well as application (Toro, Cutlass,
etc.)  I say this because they come in different lengths, and also, keep
in mind on an unrelated note, the water neck bypass hole size could make
a difference in bypass flow.  A/C cars usually had a smaller hole.

I thought Joe Mondello had some of these if you'd give him your
first-born.  And maybe Dick Miller may have something too.  Heck, GM
would be the place I'd go first.  Sure, the pumps are a little pricey,
but they'd be new GM ones.

2 cents,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 15:34:21 -0500 (EST)
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: belt power

In a message dated 97-10-26 09:20:42 EST, you write:

<< So, if the item can be disabled [turn off AC, unplug alt., etc.] that'll
be a
 big gain typically. Big in this arena, that is, not big compared to
launching
 3800# of car down the 1/4 mile.  Taking the belt right off would be a very
 small addtional gain, and taking the whole system off will be another small
 weight saving gain. Guess that's why racers tend to use electric water pumps
&
 even magneto ignition systems. >>
As a quarter miler racer myself, A/C belts draws 10 to 15 hp.  This was
experiment
on my engine when I was doing dyno testing.  The friction of the belt on the
pullys
and the turning of the freewheeling pully (When A/C is tuned off) robbed that
much 
power.  One says, hey no big deal,  add another factor, 200 pounds of A/C
componets.  In racing, a 100 pounds can equal a tenth in the quarter.  So you
add
all the small factors, weight of A/c componets, a/c insulation and belt and
pullys
if taken off can be a beneficial horsepower factor

W MACHINES
72 442 W-30
12.183@109.986 in the quarter

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 17:32:44 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Flywheel H*LP!!!!

Man, what a damper on my project.

We've almost got the motor out, all we need to do is un-bolt the 
flywheel and transmission. Problem is, we can't losen one of the bolts 
on the flywheel! Not even the impact wrench can get it off!!! What do 
we do??? Air chisel?
	We must've had that engine jacked up about 1/2 foot trying to get 
that stupid thing undone.

so far:
all hoses separated from attachments
distributor cap off
coil off
AC and Alternator off
radiator out
fan and pulleys off
headers unbolted (can't get them out either!!!) Oh, get this! The numb 
nuts who put my headers on had to bend the pipe to make them fit, 
seems I have a hole in one of the tubes and a bunch of solder hanging 
off it. Guess they won't be getting my car again!


Sorry, just trying to vent!
- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 17:52:13 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: New Carpet for D-88...

Dave, I haven't seen it, but the ol' reliable JC Whitney catalog offers 
at least 2 choices for carpet. One appears to be a "custom cut and sewn" 
type which is a little cheaper, while the other is a heat-molded kind 
that contours to the floor. I think this one is made by ACC and should be 
a good carpet. I'm less sure about the sewn kind. The prices are not too 
far apart. I think the sewn kind was about $109 US, the molded kind $129 
(I don't have the catalog handy). They have umpteen colors so bright red 
shouldn't be a problem. They also offer "firethorn", which I think is an 
orangey-red.

Did you get your miss on cylinders 3 and 5 fixed up?

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 18:07:56 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Dash lights repair

If memory serves the dash lights for the speedo use twist-in #194 sockets
that the wedgy bases of the bulbs press into. Those sockets contact the
printed circuit on the back of the speedo case. Are the little metal tangs
on the base of the socket making good contact with the printed circuit? 
That would be the first thing I'd check.

You say that only about half the lights come on -- is it hit or miss in 
all 3 instrument "cans", or is it all out in one and all working in 
others? That might indicate a bad ground to the can itself. I am a little 
suspicious of those type of sockets after the problems I've had in the 
Delta. They seem very susceptible to poor contact.

I know the clock in my Cutlass uses a different kind of light, with
different bulbs. This kind has little metal "teeth" around the outside of
the socket which ground to the case and also hold the socket in the hole. 
The bulb twists into the socket. Rally Pacs might use the same kind from
what I recall. They seem pretty easy to diagnose. I had problems with the
clock lights last year working intermittently, and new bulbs solved that
problem. It seemed almost like the tip of the bulb base had worn away and
was missing contact. 

The other day I replaced a bad dash light on the Delta again and this time
had to disassemble the instrument cluster to get at the bulb. No way could
I access the socket itself. The thing is still making intermittent contact
it seems; on Friday night after replacing it the thing quit again, and a
sharp rap on the dash brought it back (so far at least). However, I also
discovered that one of the bulbs was also the wrong kind, a #161 instead
of a #168, and replacing it has given me much more illumination in there
at night. I also found the rare #756 bulb for the cruise switch floodlight
and that is much softer and looks better than the brighter light that was
in there. The dash looked really nice last night! 

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 17:06:13 -0500
From: "Adcock, Jason K." <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: 7a vs 7A heads

Chris Brown Witt wrote:

> I'd like to see the lower case "a" used only for the earlier heads like the '72
> 7a & Ga heads, to signify the tiny [though in real life, upper case] "A" that
> they used. That way, we can easily differentiate in this text medium between
> the later heads, where the "A" is as large as the 7 and immediately adjacent to
> it, and the earlier heads.
> 
> Just a suggestion.

Agreed.  I looked at my heads yesterday and they said "5A" so the newer
ones are capital and the older ones aren't.  Good point, well taken.
_______________________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
OCA #028044

http://www.erols.com/adcockjk
1984 Cutlass Supreme Calais
1992 Ford Crown Victoria LX
1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 22:23:55 +0000
From: clarence wirtz <cw63nova@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Code meanings????

I spent a little time messing around with the Cutlass today and finaly
decided I would like to know what all the codes meant on the diffrent tags
(Cowl tag and A Service Parts Tag in side trunk lid).  If any one can decode
them for me. I am lost here.

The cowl tag:

O6C           Z08  0439
3GRG9 LAQUE  353964
25U  27B 



SERVICE PARTS TAG: (IS THIS LIKE THE BUILD SHEET?)

2G3GRG9Y4G2353964                                            208-0439

AM6 AO1 A31 A42 BS1 B84 B93 C49 C60 D35 D7T E5Z E7Z GM8 G89
JM5 KM9 K34 K64 LV2 MW9 MX0 NA5 N33 N67 O69 QMX STE UA1 UM7
VQ1 V64 V73 VK3 VQ2 VQ7 VX5 VY2 V2E V2G V73 YT9 Y76 25U 27B
27I 279 31Q 6NN 7NR 85T 95T
SOL. LACQUER                  WA-L8574 U8574


I dont have any idea what any of these mean.  If any one can help thanks.

I also seen a couple 442's today will one the way to the store.  A local car
lot has a white 67 442 it says 400 cu in auto on the window.  It has baby
moon wheels.  I dont know any thing else about it.  Also a 68 442 setting in
tall grass beside a small tranny shop. Faded grey with red stripe. I dont
know any thig else about this car either.  I just thought it was strange to
see two setting.  I dont see many at all here. Its mainly F*rd and Ch*vy.

I went to the drag strip today to watch A Factory shot out.  GM VS Ford/Merc
VS Mopar.  And not a single Olds made a showing. It was all Ch*vyexcept for
2 firebirds and on Bui*k.  I dont know were all the Olds are.  I hope some
show up in the local area soon.   I go to the parts house and ask questions
about Olds and they always saw that there are not enough performance parts
to make it worth messing with. Then tell me to put a small block Ch*vy in
it.  I always tell them no thanks.  I like the old rockets the way there
made Olds all the way.  Then I leave.

I guess I should find a 2 dr body to build to take to the track and make a
showing, then maybe more will start showing up.  I guess we can hope.

Also one other question.  I have noticed the last few times that I have
gotten on the Cutlass hard that when the tires break loss it has been
kicking to the right while it is spinning.  Before it always spun in a
straight line and only one tire .  Though it did shift for left one time to
right the next time.
Could there be something wearing out it the rear end or what?  It is just
not normal for my car.  It does get attention when it does it. Why would it
start this all the sudden?


Thanks ahead for any help.

Clarence
86 Cutlass  4dr 307 o/d
San Antonio    

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 97 18:07:49 -0500
From: Mike Hall <oldsmike@flash.net>
Subject: Gage Pack find...

For those with l980's vintage 88's/98's, I found a gage pack for those 
vehicles. If anyone wants it, let me know...


Michael R. Hall: OCA #17903                    Ortonville, Michigan
Home E-Mail: oldsmike@flash.net
The Ever-Growing Oldsmobile Stable:
1971 Oldsmobile 442    
1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
1987 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Custom Cruiser
1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 18:35:14 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: New Carpet for D-88...

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
 
> Did you get your miss on cylinders 3 and 5 fixed up?

No, I didn't!  It seems to have gotten worse, and now it has a
hesitation when you press really lightly on the pedal.  Just as I was
leaving work last night, she coughed out during a quick left-hand turn
(at a major intersection), and I almost cranked the island....that
woulda done *wonders* for the front-end!

Now that the Ontario teachers are on strike, I'll finally have a minute
to take that friggin' radio to the post office!  (If the strike goes for
very long,I might have enough time to *drive* it down (sarcasm)....but
it'd be expensive at 11MPG!)
> 
> Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 19:38:05 -0500 (EST)
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: Flywheel H*LP!!!!

which bolt?  the one's holding the engine to the tranny?  or the ones holding
the flywheel to the converter?  if it's one holding the converter to the
flywheel i would cut it, because you can always buy another converter.  that
would be the best excuse to buy a stall converter.  is this your 73 cutlass?
 on my 73 cutlass the passenger side header is very difficult to get out.
 you might try jacking up the engine from the ballancer.  this is what i had
to do to get my headers in.  also you have to take off the oil filter holder.
 if it's the driver side header you have to take off the starter to get the
headers off.  well have fun rebuilding your engine.  hope you get the bolt
out.

mikey tvb@aol.com
73 cutlass w/403

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 20:04:38 -0500
From: Joe Artwell <tjf26@gte.net>
Subject: Cars for Sale

Both cars are in Ohio and I have no other info. Call the listed
telephone numbers if interested.

70 Delta 88, 455 rocket, good condition. $650.00 216-749-6796

65 Cutlass Convertable, buckets, factory tach, solid, ready to restore,
$1400.00 440-572-8217

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 21:48:28 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Code meanings????

clarence wirtz wrote:
> 
> If any one can decode
> them for me. I am lost here.
> 
> The cowl tag:
> 
> O6C

third week (C) of June (06) build date

> Z08  0439

Don't know

> 3GRG9

Oldsmobile (3) Cutlass Supreme (GR) Sedan (69)

> LAQUE  353964

Fisher body plant and build sequence number

> 25U

Lt Teal Blue Metallic paint

> 27B

Interior, vinyl top or paint stripe code
 
> SERVICE PARTS TAG: (IS THIS LIKE THE BUILD SHEET?)
> 
> 2G3GRG9Y4G2353964                                            208-0439
> 
> AM6 55/45 Divided Bench Seat
> AO1 Soft-Ray Tinted Windows
> A31 Power Side Front and Rear Door Vent Windows
> A42 6-Way Power Bench Seat Adjuster
> BS1 ?
> B84 Bodyside Moldings
> B93 Door Edge Guard Moldings
> C49 Electric Rear Window Defogger
> C60 Four-Season Air Conditioner
> D35 Color Coordinated Outside - Driver's Remote, Passenger's Manual Mirrors
> D7T ?
> E5Z ?
> E7Z ?
> GM8 2.56 Axle Ratio
> G89 ?
> JM5 ?
> KM9 ?
> K34 Cruise Control
> K64 ?
> LV2 5.0 Liter, 4bbl carb, V8
> MW9 ?
> MX0 Automatic with Overdrive Transmission
> NA5 Federal Emissions System
> N33 Tilt-Away Steering Wheel
> N67 Color Coordinated Super Stock Wheels with Stainless Trim Rings
> O69 ?
> QMX P195/75R14 Steel Belted Radial White White Stripe All Season Tires
> STE ?
> UA1 High-Capacity Battery System
> UM7 Am/Fm Stereo Radio
> VQ1 Fleet Program?
> V64 ?
> V73 ?
> VK3 Front License Plate Bracket
> VQ2 Fleet Program
> VQ7 Fleet Program
> VX5 ?
> VY2 ?
> V2E ?
> V2G ?
> V73 ?
> YT9 ?
> Y76 ?
> 25U Lt Teal Blue Metallic upper paint
> 27B ?
> 27I ?
> 279 ?
> 31Q ?
> 6NN ?
> 7NR ?
> 85T ?
> 95T ?
> SOL. LACQUER                  WA-L8574 U8574 Paint manufacturer codes

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

When a cow laughs does milk come up its nose?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 21:15:59 -0500 (EST)
From: NotDads442@aol.com
Subject: RE:W41 spotted

Chris wrote:

<<Today I saw a nice looking "Quad 442" for sale on a used car lot.

I think I might have to stop & inquire...

Where was that "###" printed again, on the truck sticker?>>

Chris the W41 should appear in several places.  There should be silver W41
emblems on the front fenders, along with silver stripes around the entire
car.  If the stripes are gold it's still a W40 car.  W41 should appear on the
trunk sticker and on the tag on the front radiator support.  Also the
engine/ignition cover should have W41 on it, be painted red and have the
words Made exclusively for Oldsmobile by GM.  The order of production will
appear on the window sticker.  Near the bottom of the sticker you should see
Order No W41XXX.

Cecil
1991 W4
OCA #29604

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 21:30:14 -0500 (EST)
From: SRDIET@aol.com
Subject: Olds Ralley Pack

Would anyone know the proper procedure for bench testing a 71 Olds 442 Ralley
Pack Tach.  ???

I know the clock does not work and I am going to relpace that but I want to
see if the Tach. part works or not before I reassemble it.

Any help would be appreciated.

Steve Dietrich
  S/E PA
    71 442 W30 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 21:42:44 -0500
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Olds Ralley Pack

> Would anyone know the proper procedure for bench testing a 71 Olds 442 Ralley
> Pack Tach.  ???
> 
Hook it up to the neg side of the coil in the car, ground the casing,
and fire the engine.  If it responds, it will probably be ok.  If
not....different story.  This is cheap, no tools needed, just a couple
of wires.  That's all the 71 service manual says about it, on page 15-38
step 5.  

Now if you are talking about synchroscopes, votmeters, and various other
techno-gadgets to "bench-test", then I'm not going to be much help.  The
71 service manual has no bench-test procedure, per se.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 18:59:02 -0700
From: "Anthony Marstall" <anthony.marstall@mailcity.com>
Subject: Where's the FAQ?

Where's the beef?



Get your free and private web-based e-mail from our new partner at http://www.mailexcite.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 22:21:31 -0500 (EST)
From: "Douglas J Harkema" <harkema2@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: radio brackets

I'm looking for original radio brackets for mounting my radio in an 1970
cutlass convert.  I know -  look in the yards!  I wish I had the time plus
living in Lansing you have  to drive a ways to find anything.  Any one got um?
let me know.

Thanks

Doug
1970 CS convertible
"Lansing" MI

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 22:29:11 -0500 (EST)
From: Olds307Y@aol.com
Subject: Re: 7a vs 7A heads

I have looked at your Cutlass many of times at 442,com it is really nice do
you have any sugestions to make my 83 cutlass supreme with F41 ride and 307y
engine i already have saved heads and have the plugs gapped at 60 insted of
80

------------------------------

Date: 26 Oct 1997 19:55:08 PST
From: mjones@gleep.com
Subject: PAW 403

            Has anybody had experience with PAW's engine block kits?  I
have looked at the prices of these kits and what they include and they
sound like a good bargain for how much work the PAW machine shop puts
into them.  A short block 403 with forged pistions costs $1360 from PAW.
 I would get the short block, then find a set of 5, 6, or 7 heads, drill
them for AIR injection, and use this as a street motor in my '78 Delta
88.  I was leaning towards a 455 for a while but the Bureau of
Automotive Repair told me it was illegal to replace my 350 with a 455
becuase the last year of the 455 was '76 and the engine would be older
than my car.  Plus, I would have to spend more money to upgrade my
driveline for the power of a 455 than I would for the 403.

Mike Jones
'78 Delta 88 2dr

PS: If my mom's '90 307 in her custom cruiser craps out, the 350 would probably
replace           it.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 22:54:10 -0500
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: PARTS: C&M 

Hi All.

        Just wanted to put out to everyone that we will be closed from now
until Monday 4 November. Email if you have an inquiry, please do not call
until Monday.

Thanks,

Jim Chermack 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 20:56:52 -0700 (MST)
From: Ray <rayc@U.Arizona.EDU>
Subject: Re: 200-4R HELP!

On Thu, 23 Oct 1997 Mr57olds@aol.com wrote:

They are in Tucson, AZ.  I don't have the number with me, but I'll get it
and send it to you.

> i am interested   to be used with 400 small block in 64 cutlass coupe where
> are they located???
> mr 57olds
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 23:22:16 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: 7a vs 7A heads

Olds307Y@aol.com wrote:
> 
> I have looked at your Cutlass many of times at 442,com it is really nice do
> you have any sugestions to make my 83 cutlass supreme with F41 ride and 307y
> engine i already have saved heads and have the plugs gapped at 60 insted of
> 80

I assume this question is towards me?  The F41 suspension package is truly
a deal, I think.  For something like 35 bucks, you got a 1.25" front sway
bar and a 1" rear one.  I assume the bushings/springs/shocks are
differennt, too, but I don't know this.  Do you know exactly what was
included with the F41 package, or does anybody else, for that matter.  Did
the G-Body H/O come with the F41 package?  Anyway, the sway bars are fine
as is, but the bushings really needed to be changed on mine.  I ordered a
front-end suspension rebuilt kit from PST, for only $199!  What a
difference!  That is the best thing I have done to the car so far.  What I
have found for the motor is just keep it in tune!  I haven't changed
ANYTHING on it, except for the K&N air filter, which doesn't do much,
anyway.  All my sensors are brand new and filters have all been changed,
with the exception of the canister filter, which I'll change this winter. 
The motor runs so good in this cool weather and still gives decent
mileage.  I'm really impressed with the little 307 and wouldn't pay any
significant amount of money to put a larger one in; the 307 just works so
good in the car!  If there's anything else, just email me privately...
_______________________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
OCA #028044

http://www.erols.com/adcockjk
1984 Cutlass Supreme Calais
1992 Ford Crown Victoria LX
1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 23:21:41 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Sad Story...

Well, the '78 Delta no longer has cooling problems....but it needs a new
hood ornament!  Right now Southern Ontario is being dumped with four
inches of snow (!), and I just returned from a friend's place.  But on
the way home, the Delta's nose decided to pucker up with a mailbox!

I almost had the car stopped (2mph), when her nose slid *under* a
mailbox!  It didn't touch the paint (because the box was so high), but
it clipped off the hood ornament!  Can you believe it?!?  I guess I'll
be heading out to the local junque yarde tomorrow for a hood ornament,
and maybe a starter (it grinds after the engine catches).

Just wanted to share that with you!!  I think I'll pick up a pair of el
cheapo snow tires too....those new all-seasons just don't cut it!

S. Dave Ward

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 23:22:39 -0500
From: Peter Teubel <pteubel@tiac.net>
Subject: Re: PAW 403

At 07:55 PM 10/26/97 PST, you wrote:
{SNIPPED for bevity)
>I was leaning towards a 455 for a while but the Bureau of
>Automotive Repair told me it was illegal to replace my 350 with a 455
>becuase the last year of the 455 was '76 and the engine would be older
>than my car.  Plus, I would have to spend more money to upgrade my
>driveline for the power of a 455 than I would for the 403.

WHAT?!  Who says you can't have an engine older than your car?  Sounds like
BS to me.  As long as it meets emission requirements of the *CAR* year, who
cares what engine is in there.  My '82 98 had a diesel (ugh...) but it was
swapped with a 403 (before I got it).  I'm lucky with the emission
requirements 'cause in MA, any car OVER 15yrs old is *EXEMPT* from emission
requirements/testing.

I find this REALLY hard to believe.  What state is claiming THIS rule?

- - Uncle Pete
'51 98 (303)
'82 98 (403)
'84 Chebby C10 (w/403 next spring)
'86 Ciera (Wifey's car)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 21:24:59 -0700 (MST)
From: Ray <rayc@U.Arizona.EDU>
Subject: Re: H/O lightning rod shifters 

On Sat, 25 Oct 1997, Chris Brown Witt wrote:

Where?  JWO?  Please send an address or phone number, that's agreat price!
Thanks a lot!


> Lightning rod shifters in JWO for cheap
> ======================
> $150 I think.
> 
> --
> Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
> *the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 21:26:03 -0700 (MST)
From: Ray <rayc@U.Arizona.EDU>
Subject: Re: TH200 trans cores for WHAT?

On Sat, 25 Oct 1997, Chris Brown Witt wrote:

> --TH200 tranny cores:
> 
> i am interested   to be used with 400 small block in 64 cutlass coupe where
> are they located???
> mr 57olds
> =========================
> 
> Please, tell us this is a mere typo. Surely you are not putting a blow-tie
> motor into a '64 Cutlass. Escpecially when the BIGGEST small block made is the
> correct-for-Olds *403*... The only "400 small block" I have heard of is the
> Blowtie version. Heck, why not have a 409 small block... Olds?
> --
> Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
> *the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
> 
YEAH!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 23:34:41 -0500 (EST)
From: Olds307Y@aol.com
Subject: Re: 7a vs 7A heads

THe supension kit included larger sway bars front and put one in the back
because with out the option there was none back there springs where a little
heavier but the bushings were also harder the ride is the same as the H/Os'
except for the Hurst the Hurst had air shocks in the back or so i hear. But
about tuning it suggestion try gapping you plugs at .060 instead of .080 it
seemd the HEI likes that gap better it gives a slightly noticable increase in
pick up when punch the engine jsut revs a little quicker and also flipping
the air cleaner does give some power acompanied by that cool racing sound.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 23:49:38 -0500 (EST)
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: Re: Water Pumps

I tried to buy one of those aluminum pumps from summit. After i bolted it on
i found it was to short, the pullies didnt line up They said they didnt have
one for my engine 1970 455. And i believe i called jegs as well. Good Luck

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 20:44:19 -0800
From: Erik Badzinski <erikreb@netbridge.net>
Subject: A/C Question

Hi,

I have a question, and I hope it makes sense, because I'm kinda learning
about this stuff as I go along. 

I have a '72 Cutlass 'S' that has had its A/C removed.  I'm pretty sure
there was a hose that went from the radiator to the A/C, but since the
A/C is gone, its just an open hole.

Should I plug it up to stop coolant from leaking out of the radiator?
And without the A/C, how does that affect the heater?

Thanks to anyone who answers it.

Erik B.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Oct 1997 00:20:26 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: A/C Question

Erik Badzinski wrote:

>>>I have a '72 Cutlass 'S' that has had its A/C removed.
Same here...the compressor on my '78 Delta seized while doing 180km/h
down the highway with the A/C on max...
>>>I'm pretty sure there was a hose that went from the radiator to the A/C, but since the
>>>A/C is gone, its just an open hole. Should I plug it up to stop coolant from leaking out of >>>the radiator?
Actually, this hose shouldn't go to the radiator...it should go to a
small "mini-rad" in front of the actual radiator.  This "mini-rad" is
part of the A/C system (evaporator? receiver-dryer?  I've forgotten what
it's called!)  Anyway, there shouldn't be *any* coolant in there...it
was meant for good old R12, (a.k.a. freon).  Since the system has been
discharged and removed, there won't be any refridgerant left, so there's
no reason to plug the hole.
>>>And without the A/C, how does that affect the heater?
It shouldn't...the warm-air production system and the cold-air
production system are two separate things, even though they both travel
through the same ducting.  My Delta 88's system has been removed, none
of the holes plugged, and so far works great...sure, the fan selector
switch is worn out, but that's the result of twenty cold winters and
twenty hot summers...nothing to do with the removal of the system.


S. Dave Ward

'78 Delta 88 (350 4bbl.)
'85 Delta 88 (307 4bbl.)
'91 GMC 4x4  (305 TBI)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 21:46:22 PST
From: "Brent Ardo" <cutlass67@hotmail.com>
Subject: SS1's for sale

set of 5 ss 1 for sale. decent, tires aren't very good though. 
$250. 

this is my new e-mail account so i i dont reply to your letter within 
2-days e-mail me at bman6771@aol.com

brent
1967 cutlass convertible

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 21:49:23 PST
From: "Brent Ardo" <cutlass67@hotmail.com>
Subject: subscribe

subscribe

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Oct 1997 02:23:00 -0800
From: Greg Pruett <grpruett@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: A/C Question

Erik Badzinski wrote:

> I have a '72 Cutlass 'S' that has had its A/C removed.  I'm pretty sure
> there was a hose that went from the radiator to the A/C, but since the
> A/C is gone, its just an open hole.
> 
> Should I plug it up to stop coolant from leaking out of the radiator?

The radiator is not connected  to the AC system.  You might be thinking
of the AC condenser if it's still on the car.  The condenser sits just
in front of the radiator and is much thinner than the radiator, with no
tanks on the sides.  There's really nothing left to leak out of the
condenser if the AC system has allready been pulled apart, so you don't
have to worry about it.  You might want to plug it anyway though, in
case you want to re-install air condtioning someday.  That way you'll
keep foreign debris (i.e. mud daubers :) from getting into it.

If you actually have a hole in the radiator, by all means plug it.  The
cooling system is designed to work most efficiently under pressure.  It
can't hold pressure with a hole in it.  Do you have coolant leaking out
of it?  

> And without the A/C, how does that affect the heater?

As long as all of the ducting is still in place and there's no holes
anywhere, it won't affect the heater at all.  The defroster won't work
quite as well, because the AC kicks on with the defroster to de-humidify
the air and help keep condensation off the windshield.  It comes on with
the defroster no matter where you put the temerature lever.  It's nice
in the summer, because it keeps the windshield clear without turning on
the hot air, but you can live without it.  It make little difference in
winter though.

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista Cruiser
`67 Cutlass Supreme
`80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Oct 1997 00:07:02 -0800
From: steven@purplemonkey.com (Steven Saraceno)
Subject: Re: Flywheel H*LP!!!!

Some advice I got years ago from an old mechanic.  He said to heat the
bolt with a torch or just try to tighten it an 1/8 of a turn.  Sometimes
a bolt will break loose easier if it is tightened first.  Of course you
have to be carefull that you don't over do it in either case.

Steven
70 442 conv

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Oct 1997 00:23:54 -0800
From: steven@purplemonkey.com (Steven Saraceno)
Subject: Racing parts

Sorry if this has been out but I have not seen it posted and this is the
fourth time I'm sending it.

Does anyone remember a place called Kenne/Bell Olds/Buick they made
aftermarket parts for the 455s

Steven
70 442 conv

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 23:58:37 -0700
From: chaim@webtv.net (bruce murdock)
Subject: '62 Cutlass and '62 Jetfire

Anyone know where I can find good used or NOS parts for a '62 Cutlass
and/or a '62 Jetfire?  I have one of each.  Any info would be
appreciated.  

Bruce

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #924
********************************

