
oldsmobile-digest     Saturday, November 22 1997     Volume 01 : Number 966



'69, '70 Junkyard Toros...
Re: 57 phantom
Advantages of valve size..(was: E heads Big vs Small  valves and WTB(455))
Re: Edelbrock Dips
Re: Phantom 57
Re: 73 turn signal prob
Re[2]: egr vs. air
Nice Olds
Re: 69 Olds Hood
air cushion parts for 74-76 olds
lexus bashing
Re: 73 turn signal prob
Re: FW: Off the frame restoration (Long reply)
Re: egr vs. air
Read final on Quad Vs V-8 arguments
Re: Advantages of valve size..(was: E heads Big vs Small  valves and WTB(455))
Re: 3-on-the-tree C/S Ragtop
Re: A/C dilemma
Re: 80's 442/Hust VIN decoding
Re: Edelbrock Dips
Re: Advantages of valve size..(was: E heads Big vs Small  valves and WTB(455))
Re: 80's 442/Hust VIN decoding
Oil Gauge Question
TH350 shifting wierd..
Re: Edelbrock Dips
Re: Lexus bashing 
Re: Oil Gauge Question
Re: 3-on-the-tree C/S Ragtop
Looking for OEM Wheels
Re: SS wheel questions 
Re: TH350 shifting wierd..
I'm ready to pull my hair out....
Vin decode please
intake_manifold
Re: 10.50 ET 70 Cutlass?
Re: TH350 shifting wierd..
picking a lock
Phantom 57
Re: TH350 shifting wierd..
Breather elements
Breather elements
Re: TH350 shifting wierd..
1970 Rallye 350
Re: 3-on-the-tree C/S Ragtop
Re: VIN decoding
Re: 3-on-the-tree C/S Ragtop
Re: Oil Gauge Question
Re: Breather elements
Re: fast coolant
Re: I'm ready to pull my hair out....
Re: Lexus bashing

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 11:44:08 -0700 (MST)
From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Subject: '69, '70 Junkyard Toros...

	Hey everybody!
I was out at one the local boneyards this last tuesday picking around when
I found some new arivals, mostly just a bunch of crap, but there was a '69
(at least I'm pretty sure it was a '69) Toro.  Body pretty bad, but there
looked like a lot of interior stuff left.  Under the hood there was a C
head (big valve?) 455, complete less carb.  There was also a second Toro,
that looked very similar, but newer than the '69, so I'm guessing a '70
(sorry I'm not more familiar with these years...)  But, I did'nt have time
to check that one out.  If there is anything specific you guys want from
these, let me know.  I might be out there again soon.  
	
				Scott
			1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 12:58:04 -0600
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: 57 phantom

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jack Karamanos <jalkara@whidbey.net>


>the 57 i refer to in the magazine picture is an altered wheelbase, radical
>custom 2 seat, no door, corvette style top 57, know anything about that
>one?
>
Don't really know anything about except it was at Lansing. Tealish green
looking? I got it on tape maybe Doug will put it on his centennial tape. It
looked like it had been narrowed to. At first I didn't really like it but
the more I looked at it I really started liking it. It didn't look like it
would be easy to get in and out of though.

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 13:59:16 -0500 (EST)
From: CRuper1@aol.com
Subject: Advantages of valve size..(was: E heads Big vs Small  valves and WTB(455))

In a message dated 97-11-20 15:11:27 EST, you write:

<< 
  No, there is nothing externally to identify the heads as BV or SV units.
You
  can tell, however, if you know what their original application was:
  
  BV=442, W-32 (SX), W-33 (Delta) and W-34 (Toronado GT) motors
  SV=all 2-bbl, all 98, L-31 (SX, Vista Cruiser and Delta 88-series),
Toronado
  non-GT >>
 What is the difference in actual valve size and is there any performance
 advantages that would warrent a change in heads?
 
  >>

This brings up a good point.  I realize that the bigger the valves, the more
airflow typically you can get in the cylinder (disregarding any MAJOR
differences, and looking at the basic type of intake tract).  But how much is
it really worth to have the larger valves?  Is it worth extra HP, or is it
not a valid need until higher RPM.  My contention would be this.  With a
normal street motor, running typically at 3000 RPM, and occasionally up to
say....  5500-6000 range, I'd bet there isn't much of a difference in the
basic overall view of things.  It may be down a bit on HP when buzzing the
redline a bit (with the big valves), but face it, how many people here spend
any considerable amount of time at that RPM?

In fact, I'd say that for people that really like the "grunt" of the bottom
end of these motors, you may be better off with the smaller valved heads
(yep, you heard right...).  Typically you will make better low end power with
the smaller valves than with the bigger ones (the same thing can be said for
carburetion also, in that a smaller size carb will give better low-end power,
and a bigger carb tends to lose bottom power, but gain top end).

Is it worth "ditching" your small valve heads for a pair with a bigger valve
(considering you're staying within the same year, and not comparing the smog
heads to non-smog).  I'd say no.  Keep the ones you've got, hell, spend the
money on getting them ported if you have money to blow.  There's better
things to spend the money on than this.  There are alot of other things in
your powertrain that will NEED to be worked on before you get into things
this far to make a big difference.

BTW, on a final note....  if you're looking for more compression, yes,
changing to non-smog heads will help.

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 13:18:05 -0600
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: Edelbrock Dips

Instead of guessing why Edelbrock excluded those engines why not just send
them a e-mail asking why they did. Who knows they might just tell you why.

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 14:34:40 -0500
From: david wyatt <Wyatt_David_L@LILLY.COM>
Subject: Re: Phantom 57

FWIW, This photo was the first Olds with this mod I have seen.  I have
seen the same mod on quite a few 55, 56, and 57 ch*vies over the years.
I have seen a couple hard tops, a few sedans, and a bunch of wagons
shortened like this.  It was popular in the late 60s.  The wagons looked
the best, IMHO, due to looking more balanced.  It used to be considered
a good way to make something unusual out of two wrecked cars.
	
Dave(showing my age)Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 14:56:50 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: 73 turn signal prob

DrkSole@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Hi, this is directed toward the 73 Cutlass owners on the list.  Have any of
> you had problems with the front turn signals?  I've had to replace the
> sockets 3 times on both sides due to the sockets rusting out, and now the
> system is blowing the fuse and is completely in operable.  The rusting is due
> to the sockets being positioned directly in front of the front wheels,
> probably why they were moved to above the bumper in 74.  Just wondering if my
> troubles were  unique..
> Thanks.
> 
> DrkSole
> 73 Cutlass Supreme
> 67 Delta 88 Custom

Yeah, I had this problem too. I had a mechanic drill tiny holes at the
bottom of the front signal lenses so the water could easily drain out.
It works. Also, another good idea is to put in a heavy-duty GM blinker
breaker; My signals were constantly going out, but after those mods, I
haven't had a problem.

- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 97 11:16:42 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re[2]: egr vs. air

If, in fact this "bump" has nothing to do with EGR, does that mean it 
could be on non EGR heads as well?  More specificly, would my 69 350 
with #5 heads have this bump? I don't have the A.I.R. system.
     
     Yes.  And Yes.  The bump is simply additional cast iron designed into 
     the head casting to provide enough material for the factory to machine 
     in the provisions for the A.I.R. tubes on applications which required 
     it.  Apparently Olds decided that it was easier to use the same 
     casting for A.I.R. and non-A.I.R. alike.
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442 (_with_ A.I.R.)
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 12:40:30 +0000
From: "Rick" <richardc@equitrac.com>
Subject: Nice Olds

I dont know if any of you guys are into Tattoo's or not but there are 
some Magazines for people who are and they have formed a club in one 
particular magazine called Tattoo..They are people who like Tats and 
Cars...Take a look at this Mag and look for the SWEET 59 and 57 Olds' 
that are in there. What 2 nice looking cars.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 10:45:31 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: 69 Olds Hood

- ---Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net> wrote:
    Well, I'm pretty screwed up here....I thought that what I have and
have advertised as a '70 hood (as I was told) may actually be a '69
hood.  It has a single raised area and stamped-out vents on left and
right sides parallel to the windshield. When I got the correct hood
for my '69 4-4-2, it placed and latched the same as this hood does
except that it has two raised panels that are left and right of the
center line and the vent areas again parallel to the windshield have
rectangular cutouts to except the chrome vent pieces and their trim. 
Somebody straighten me out here!!  What is this good looking black
hood that I have leaning against the wall of my garage that's
for sale (supposidly as a '70 Cutlass hood).


!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
      Here we go:
      There are 2 hoods for 69: a 'flat' hood with one raised area used
on 4 doors, wagons and Supremes, and a hood with 2 raised areas used
on Cutlass S and 442 models. ALL have the latch piece which hangs down.
      There are 3 hoods for 70: a 'flat' hood with one raised area used
on 4 doors, wagons and Supremes, a hood with 2 raised areas used
on Cutlass S and 442 models, and the fiberglass OAI hood. ALL have a
square hole on the underside to accept the latch.
      So what you have is a 69 Supreme/4 door hood !!!!!!!!!!!

John Pajak




__________________________________________________________________
Sent by Yahoo! Mail. Get your free e-mail at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 14:40:32 +0000
From: Bob Brandys <oehcs@flash.net>
Subject: air cushion parts for 74-76 olds

I am looking for air cushion/ air bag parts or donor car for 74-76 olds
88,98 and toronado

any help you could give me would be appreciated.

Bob Brandys

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 15:52:57 -0500 (EST)
From: Shaun Miller <smille02@astro.ocis.temple.edu>
Subject: lexus bashing

Why do we limit the bashing to the lexus?  I think the acura 3.5rl is a 
piece of garbage.  it costs 40 g's and gets you like 210 horses.  why not 
get an aurora or caddy northstar?  Infiniti already knows oldsmobiles 
wrath.  What happened at indy Infiniti (nissan).  does anyone know what 
type of car is in the movie wraith?  it looks similar to maybe an 
aerotech.  just wondering if it was an earlier development.  Judging by 
how fast it was it probably had an 1100 horsepower Quad 4, wouldnt 
suprise me.

"when youve had the rest, come drive the best: Quad 4"

shaun

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 14:52:30 -0600
From: "Green, Andrew" <acg@datalogics.com>
Subject: Re: 73 turn signal prob

>Hi, this is directed toward the 73 Cutlass owners on the list.
>Have any of you had problems with the front turn signals?
>I've had to replace the sockets 3 times on both sides due 
>to the sockets rusting out,

Maybe there's supposed to be a splash shield of some sort behind the
turn signal...? My '82 had its signals in the front bumper, and clipped
on to the wiring harness where it went into the back of each socket was
a big folded-over flexible shield (foam plastic or something like that)
that kept road splash off the wiring. Maybe yours is supposed to have
something similar. Heck, you could probably rig one up anyway, original
or not. (Another advantage of having such a shield is that in winter,
frozen road slush won't accumulate on the wires themselves, so that when
it eventually falls off the car, it can't rip out the wiring harness
when it goes.)

>and now the system is blowing the fuse and is completely 
>inoperable.

Um... are you sure you don't have a problem elsewhere? Rainwater usually
won't blow a fuse; it's only 12 volts circulating down there. And which
fuse is it? The one for all your exterior lighting (other than
headlamps)?

>The rusting is due to the sockets being positioned 
>directly in front of the front wheels, probably why 
>they were moved to above the bumper in 74.

Actually some models (I think the 4-doors) kept them in the bumper,
although I can't think of any since then that actually had them down in
the front roll pan _below_ the bumper, like yours. But the main reason
for moving them up in or above the bumper might have had more to do with
us bozos up north who kept crushing them into piles of ice and snow in
the winter.  :-)

>Just wondering if my troubles were unique.

Eh... not really...
- --
Andrew C. Green             (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.            email: acg@datalogics.com
101 N. Wacker, Ste. 1800    http://www.datalogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301     Fax: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 01:38:15 -0500
From: "Kerr, Brian (R)" <kerrb@basf-corp.com>
Subject: Re: FW: Off the frame restoration (Long reply)

Jim:
I would like to sell it sooner than that due to storage requirements, 
however if I dont sell it, and I am able to rent it out in the meantime that 
would be ok too. My problem is that I really dont have permanent inside 
storage space for 1000 lb of odd shaped steel, and I hate to see something 
I've put so much work into sit outside rusting in the elements. (if it 
doesnt get stolen)
By the way, where would you be wanting this once you get back from Korea? I 
would hope that you could pick it up as the shipping on this thing would be 
a killer. Ideally, I would hope that I could move it to someone close to me, 
so that in a couple of years when the resto bug attacks me with another car, 
I could borrow/rent it back again. If I cant sell it, and I cant rent it 
out, I'll try to trade it for something else I need, or cut it up again and 
build a car trailer out of it.
 ----------
From: DDA.TYPE=RFC-822; DDA.VALUE=oldsmobile-mml-owner(a)chebucto.ns.ca
To: DDA.TYPE=RFC-822; DDA.VALUE=oldsmobile(a)chebucto.ns.ca; kerr
Subject: Re: FW: Off the frame restoration (Long reply)
Date: Friday, November 21, 1997 10:28AM

DATE: Nov 21 14:47:25 1997 GMT
IPMessageID: 34758FDE.A720F88C(a)uriel.net

FROM: [DDA.TYPE=RFC-822; DDA.VALUE=oldsmobile-owner(a)ccn.cs.dal.ca]

AUTHORIZED: James Zito [DDA.TYPE=RFC-822; DDA.VALUE=jimzito(a)uriel.net]

TO: [DDA.TYPE=RFC-822; DDA.VALUE=oldsmobile(a)chebucto.ns.ca]

REFERENCES: 30F023F7.MAI
SUBJECT: Re: FW: Off the frame restoration (Long reply)
REPLY TO: [DDA.TYPE=RFC-822; DDA.VALUE=oldsmobile(a)chebucto.ns.ca]

IMPORTANCE: normal
PRIORITY:
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 --
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"




> Brian,

Based on your posting, I'd be interested in buyig your setup.  I'm gettin 
read
y
to do a frame off on my '69 442 conv.  The only problem is I'll be in Korea
until early '99, but if you don't mind keeping it until then and don't wnat 
bo
th
an arm and a leg for it I'll take the beasts off you hands.

Jim

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 16:10:07 -0600
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: egr vs. air

unless i understood it incorrectly, it's time to suggest some rewording
in the FAQ section on bryceman's olds page under "head porting" -  you
and several others claim that it IS an EGR hump.
- ----------
Point taken for the FAQ. It will be changed.

Just so everyone knows, the FAQ is not updated directly, in real time,
from the mail list posts. It is done manually, and it takes time to
produce updates, and not everyone on the list contributed to the Head
Porting section. I'm sure the original post from many months back
incorrectly referred to the bumps as EGR bumps.
- -- 
David Brown     Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.0 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
  http://nero.dyn.ml.org/~da_bomb/oldsfaq/oldsfaq4.htm

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds
  http://nero.dyn.ml.org/~da_bomb/oldsfaq/zip/oldsfaq4.zip

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 17:10:45 -0500 (EST)
From: Two72W30S@aol.com
Subject: Read final on Quad Vs V-8 arguments

Who really cares who is faster or not.   I have both.

I have a 90 Quad 442 that runs 14.95 in the 1/4 and
the 72 W-30 that runs 12.18's.  It really doesnt matter.
I enjoy both cars.  I love cruising both cars in the summer.
They are both attention getters.  The Quad 4 is quick for a 
4 banger thats normally aspirated.  Add a turbo and think
of the possibilities.  Now put the same turbo on my 72 W 
car and Hold on for you life.  I say just enjoy your Oldsmobiles
no matter what year or model.

Just my opinion.  Remember, I am not conceided but convinced!!!

MARK K PRINCE
TWO72W30S AND STILL W MACHINES

Two 72 442 W-30's
one 90 Quad 442
one 71 Cutlass Supreme
one 94 Cutlass Supreme 
and one 72 Cutlass S

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 17:31:08 -0500 (EST)
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: Re: Advantages of valve size..(was: E heads Big vs Small  valves and WTB(455))

In a message dated 97-11-21 14:19:01 EST, you write:

<< Is it worth "ditching" your small valve heads for a pair with a bigger
valve
 (considering you're staying within the same year, and not comparing the smog
 heads to non-smog).  I'd say no.  Keep the ones you've got, hell, spend the
 money on getting them ported if you have money to blow.  There's better
 things to spend the money on than this.  There are alot of other things in
 your powertrain that will NEED to be worked on before you get into things
 this far to make a big difference.
 
 BTW, on a final note....  if you're looking for more compression, yes,
 changing to non-smog heads will help.
 
 Chris Ruper >>
Chris, thanks for the info,im still curious how much bigger is the intake
valve.(under the assumption all BB exaust V's are the same). Im pulling
13.7's and 13.30's on NOS. so im wondering what kind of head will make me
faster and how fast. And no i cant afford $1000 f-heads nor $1800 aluminum
heads. Here is a run down of what my car is made of to date. 455
over.030,crane fireball 491in 518ex 291dur.,holly pro fuel injection,perfomer
intake,hei,msd,spercoil,35deg mech. advance,175 hp NOS kit,turbo
400,2500stall,355 gears,10'' slicks. Since i changed the carb from a 780
holly to the pro fuel and jetted the 125NOS up to 175 i havent been to the
track. Im sure its faster allready.But you know the saying I WANT MORE POWER.
I really thought the car would be in the 12's without NOS. Thanks again for
any suggestions Joe.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 17:32:39 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: 3-on-the-tree C/S Ragtop

>On Thu, 20 Nov 1997, Paul L. Fikaris wrote:
>> 1970 Olds Cutlass Supreme Conv, very rare, 3 speed on column, a/c, white
>> w/tan top, 350 Rocket, dark brown vinyl interior Ralley wheels, sport
>> steering wheel, VGC, $9500
>> 
>> I was curious just how rare do you think this one really is? I'd think a
>> 3-speed would be fairly rare on a Cutlass, but on the tree, on a Supreme
>> AND a droptop. Just wondered if anyones seen/heard of these before?
>
>Doesn't someone on this list (Everett H. maybe?) own one of these? I seem 
>to recollect someone talking about this...

Yup, Everett had (and still has, I believe) a '72 CS w/3-on-the-tree, which
is for sale, but it isn't a convertible though. Interesting setup to drive,
as the shifter lever looks like a regular automatic tranny lever (though it
isn't identical or interchangeable). This would be a great theft-deterrent,
as most people would simply try to put the car into "D" and go... :)

Just a note: the torque of the Olds 350 makes a 3-speed entirely practical
for everyday driving.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	     MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado		 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX	 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited	 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 17:28:47 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: A/C dilemma

>When I bought my 72 cutlass last month, the A/C blew ice cold.  The first day
>I drove it home, I was railing on it pretty hard (burnouts, etc.), and I saw 
>smoke pouring out of the hood.  I fried the clutch on the AC compressor 
>(literally)- here's the dilemma: should I replace the clutch ($90) or the
>whole compressor ($200 + $35 for a new drier + labor, since I can't do AC

Wow, $200? Rebuilt units w/lifetime warranty go for $90 w/o a core charge
around here. For that price, it's very hard to justify replacing the clutch
alone. Since a leaky front seal can result in a loss of $100 worth of
freon, it's probably a good idea to replace the whole unit; after all, that
will save the labor charge for installing the clutch itself (removing and
reinstalling the compressor itself is a snap, and shouldn't run you much in
labor).
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	     MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado		 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX	 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited	 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 15:35:51 -0700 (MST)
From: d houlton x0710 <tc75918@hpnfssvr.mdhc.mdc.com>
Subject: Re: 80's 442/Hust VIN decoding

Mike Rothe wrote:
> 
> >  I'm looking
> > for an 80's Hurst or 442 and want to be able to check the VIN when
> > I do find one.
> 
> Easy.  Of course, Take for instance, an 85 vehicle.  A 442.  The 83/83
> Hursts would be similar.  The EIGHTH digit in the VIN is important for


Hey, thanks Mike.  A lot more than I was looking for, but thanks for 
all the clues to look for.  I'm going to look at an '84 Hurst tomorrow.

It's an Arizona car and been sitting since 1991.  The engine's out, but
been rebuilt.  The carb and tranny are in need of re-build.  And <ack!>
it's been re-painted white.  It does have t-tops and the spoilers, scoop,
and lightning rods though.  I just wanted the VIN decoding to make sure. 

If I do get it, I'll re-build the tranny to the max per info on this
list and the TR homepage and stick the same motor back in while I
work on a 350 replacement.  I've been playing with the EFI332 stuff.
Hope to someday have an EFI 350 to put in it.

thanks
- --Dan

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 17:56:31 -0500
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Edelbrock Dips

>      Actually, now that I think about it, there was one Olds engine that
>      used flat-top pistons instead of the normal dished units.  I'll have
>      to check the service manuals when I get home, but I seem to recall
>      that it _was_ the 68-9 W-30s.

The flat top piston was used in the 350 Ram-Rod, aka W-31.  

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 14:58:32 -0800
From: Erik Nowacki <enowacki@titan.com>
Subject: Re: Advantages of valve size..(was: E heads Big vs Small  valves and WTB(455))

>Chris, thanks for the info,im still curious how much bigger is the intake
>valve.(under the assumption all BB exaust V's are the same). Im pulling
>13.7's and 13.30's on NOS. so im wondering what kind of head will make me
>faster and how fast. And no i cant afford $1000 f-heads nor $1800 aluminum
>heads. Here is a run down of what my car is made of to date. 455
>over.030,crane fireball 491in 518ex 291dur.,holly pro fuel injection,perfomer
>intake,hei,msd,spercoil,35deg mech. advance,175 hp NOS kit,turbo
>400,2500stall,355 gears,10'' slicks. Since i changed the carb from a 780
>holly to the pro fuel and jetted the 125NOS up to 175 i havent been to the
>track. Im sure its faster allready.But you know the saying I WANT MORE POWER.
>I really thought the car would be in the 12's without NOS. Thanks again for
>any suggestions Joe.
>

One easy way to do this is to run your motor through a Desktop Dyno.  Even
if the numbers aren't necessarily exact to the tenth of a horsepower, I
think it will give you a fairly good idea of what the differences between
the large and small valves.

Erik Nowacki
San Diego
72 Vista Cruiser

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 18:12:55 -0500
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 80's 442/Hust VIN decoding

> >This information is coming off the top of my head, so I hope I didn't
> >leave anything out.
> 
> Man!  You did all THAT off the top of your head?  Good job!  I think the
> only correction I could possibly make would be SSIII wheels instead of the
> SSII, but everything else was right on the money.  (At least I THINK mine
> has SSIII's.)  You really do know your Olds G bodies.

You know, I seemed to get a lot of flack for leaving out that extra "I"
on the wheels.  As you could see by other spelling errors, I just wrote
and sent.  I also forgot to mention that the "9" engines had a
three-point adjustment procedure where the "Y" engines only has a
two-point adjustment procedure. (I'll let you guys figure that one out).

But also, I didn't make myself clear on the idle load compensator
(ILC).  The ILC sorta "controls" the throttle position, determining what
idle speed the engine has.  The electric solenoid, which is different,
and my 85 442 also has, is the kickup solenoid for the A/C only.  I knew
what I wanted to say, but what I wrote was about the solenoid.  The ILC
is vacuum controlled and adjusts idle speed based on the load at idle. 
Sorta the same, but it doesn't matter if the A/C is on or not.

I haven't been under the hood of the 85 for months now, so I apologize
for any errors I put out.  At least I put that "disclaimer" in that it
was coming off the top of my head, which at times, is somewhat clouded.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 16:08:04 -0800
From: Erik Badzinski <erikreb@netbridge.net>
Subject: Oil Gauge Question

Hello,

I have a 1972 Cutlass S.  I would like to know where I put the Oil
Pressure Gauge.  The engine is a 350 Small block, and it has a
Elderbrock Performer 350 Olds Intake Manifold.  Also, where would I put
the Water Temp gauge?

Thanks,

Erik B.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 19:50:28 EST
From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Subject: TH350 shifting wierd..

Hi Folks,

I'm having a problem with the tranny in my '69 Olds.  It's a TH350 out of
a '77 or '78 Cutlass (can't remember which..), and has been in the car
for about 6 years.  It's had fluid and filter changes every 10,000 -
12,000 miles, and I've had no problems with it...'til now.  

It works fine right after the first start up in the morning, but when it
gets good and warmed up after 5 or 10 minutes of driving, it kind of
slips out of third back down into second.  If I stop at a light or stop
sign, then resume travel, it will shift normally, but after a few seconds
in drive it will do the downshift into second thing.  It's a wierd
downshift, too.  Not at all normal; very, very smooth, and I can only
tell it does it by the increase in engine rpm's.  If I put the trans in
neutral while travelling, rev the engine, then put it back in "D", it
will shift back into third, and often stay there for minutes at a time
(WOW!).  But it always downshifts.  

I've had a couple people already give me their ideas, but I need some
more advice.  One friend says the governor is bad.  How do you replace
that, and how can I be sure if it's bad?  Another says the pump is going.
 I don't even want to mess with that.  I like the transmission right
where it is, mounted to the engine, and I dread the thought of taking it
out; it's such a pain! 

I did find some small pieces of aluminum in the pan last time I changed
the fluid/filter; that was about 2,000 miles ago.  There were four
irregularly shaped pieces, between 1/16" and 1/8" in size.  A bit
discouraging, to say the least.

If anybody knows what's going on with my tranny, please reply!


Dave Paulison                    1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida                1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 19:52:39 -0500
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Edelbrock Dips

Daren & Laurie Hendley wrote:
> 
> Instead of guessing why Edelbrock excluded those engines why not just send
> them a e-mail asking why they did. Who knows they might just tell you why.
> 
> Daren

Maybe because it's more fun.
- -- 
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 97 15:19:34 PST8
From: hpnaepflin@CCGATE.HAC.COM
Subject: Re: Lexus bashing 

>That's the problem with today's cars, NO STYLE!!!! All the car 
>manufacturers are always trying to mimic the others, .....
              ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Nothing new here!  Actually, the new Cutlass/Malibu resemble each other about as
much as my 70 Cutlass resembles a (GASP!!!) 70 Malibu!

Don't get me wrong, I love the old cars but lets face it all cars of a given
generation have tended to look generically alike.

My wife has a '90 Accord (she got it befor we met).  It has 115000 miles.  It
has never been to the dealer.  The ONLY thing that went wrong was the
speedometer sensor broke.  I replaced it in 15 minutes.  The part cost $100. 
Its gets 30 MPG at 80 mph with AC on on long trips.  It's backseat has more room
than my '70 Cutlass.  Brakes last 60k miles.  The interior shows no wear except
some dirt in the carpet.  No cracked dash, no droopy headliner, no loose
turnsignal stalk.  The red metallic paint is like new.  Absolutely ZERO style,
but a great car.

The reason GM and the big three have been moving toward copying the styling of
the imports is that they are trying to shed their reputation of inferior quality 
and latch onto the imports image of better quality.  Bland generic midsized
sedans are a status symbol now because all the German and especially Japanese
midsized sedans of the 80's which generally could be driven 200,000 miles or
more with no major work. 

In my experience, an american transmission built in the 80's has virtually no
chance of making it past 150000 miles without an overhaul.  The old V8 engines
can make it into the 150-200k range, but you can forget it for the 4s and 6s.

Likewise, it seems that you can pretty much figure that the paint on a 10 year
old american car is going to be shot, Chryslers and Fords are definitley worse
than GMs in this regard.

Pretty much by 150k you've got a car that's pretty much a beater and is gonna
take continuous work to keep it going  unless its been really pampered with
garaged parking and taking it back to the dealer to take care of a string of
TSBs.

GM makes the Z28 and Firebird which, for about the price of an Accord, will beat
the crap out of any stock W30 ever made in any measure of acceleration or
handling performance you choose but hardly anybody buys them.  Why?  because the
chances of the AC, power windows, and cruise all still working at 100k without
major work is pretty much nil.

Hey, I'm always going to drive an old Oldsmobile but I enjoy tinkering with it
on weekends.  It's cheap, and as long as keep on top of the problems, reliable
and looks and sounds cool.  

For 20 grand and up, the new car buyer isn't willing to put up with the crap the
big three expect you to put up with.  And remember, its the new car buyer, not
the old car fanatic that the big three has to please!

When are they going to get the clue that it's not the bland styling that people
like but the solid, trouble free ownership experience.

Hey Greg! Am I gonna get kicked off the digest for this??? ;)

Hans

......INCOMING!!!!!!.............

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 20:10:29 -0500
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Oil Gauge Question

> I have a 1972 Cutlass S.  I would like to know where I put the Oil
> Pressure Gauge.  The engine is a 350 Small block, and it has a
> Elderbrock Performer 350 Olds Intake Manifold.  Also, where would I put
> the Water Temp gauge?

On the front of the engine, between the water pump and the intake
manifold, there is a space.  On the driver's side, a 1/8" pipe threaded
hole is there for the oil pressure guage/idiot light connection.  On the
front of the intake, directly on either side of the water neck, you will
find threaded holes (probably plugged) for the temp guage/light.  You
can use either one, but if you are using the factory wiring, then go
with the driver's side connection.

Hope this helps.
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 20:27:57 -0500 (EST)
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: Re: 3-on-the-tree C/S Ragtop

 yes heard of 3 on tree before  buy the car very rare...
   olds guy ga.....

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 19:39:37 -0500
From: "W-MACHINES" <W-MACHINES@prodigy.net>
Subject: Looking for OEM Wheels

I am looking for a decent set of 14 x 6 "R" code steel wheels for my '66
F-85 Deluxe.  Also a set of hubcaps. 

Kurt    W-MACHINES@prodigy.net
'65 Jetstar 1 4-speed                   '70 Toronado GT W-34 4-sale
'66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed       '92 Achieva SCX W-41
'66 442 F-85 Deluxe factory L-69  '90 Trofeo

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 19:35:38 -0500
From: "W-MACHINES" <W-MACHINES@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: SS wheel questions 

early SS1's are stamped 795  JK ( JK is a heavy duty designation found even
on some steel wheels).  In '66 the whole wheel was shiny chrome causing
problems with the black paint sticking (note shiny spokes).  Late in '66
they started blasting the center sections resulting in better paint
adhesion (note "satin" like finish to spokes).  For disc brake models,
SS1's are stamped 810 JK.  They have a visible additional "groove" in the
rim.   

Kurt    W-MACHINES@prodigy.net
'65 Jetstar 1 4-speed                   '70 Toronado GT W-34 4-sale
'66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed       '92 Achieva SCX W-41
'66 442 F-85 Deluxe factory L-69  '90 Trofeo

- ----------
> From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: SS wheel questions / gasket question
> Date: Thursday, November 20, 1997 9:54 PM
> 
> At 01:59 AM 11/20/97 -0600, you wrote:
> >At 04:37 PM 11/19/97 -0700, you wrote:
> >>
> >>I have a 72 cutlass supreme with disc brakes, and I was wondering...
> >>
> >>1. SS1 wheels won't fit because of the disc brakes, right?
> 
> 
>      I've read about SSI's not fitting on disc brake cars a few times
here
> and I have SSI's on my '69 4-4-2 (w/discs).  To make them fit all I had
to
> do was to grind off a bit of the outer corner edges of the back plate of
the
> pads (outboard ones).  Haven't had a problem.  BTW they're 15x7's.
> 
> 
>      Glenn 
>      '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 20:41:59 -0500
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: TH350 shifting wierd..

Dave,

It could be the thing is just wearing out.  The clutches go bad, the
pump, pump reilief valve, internal seals, valve body, or pressure
accumulator give up the ghost, then it can cause what you describe. 
But, so could a vacuum leak to the modulator.  A leak could "fake out"
the modulator into thinking that the throttle has been mashed, and down
shift.  Check all vacuum lines for evidence of leaks. This is free, and
not that much trouble.  Ensure the fluid is at the correct level, and
SMELL it and look at the color.  If it is brown, or smells burnt,
well.....it's toast. End of story.

A few things lead me to believe it is something with the tranny.  While
it is cold, it shifts fine.  The fluid gets less viscous (easier to
flow) as it heats up, so the pressure gets lower.  It happens to all of
them.  If the pressure gets too low, the transmission will not respond
correctly.  Pressure is the key.  Like any hydraulic system, parts can
and do eventually wear out.  When you rev it, you may just be increasing
the pump speed, which in turn will raise pressure, maybe enough to
complete the shift, then fall back again.  It also increases vacuum, so
this alone is possibly a valid reason to check the vacuum line.  You
mention aluminum pieces.  Big ones.  A few "shaving particles" is
normal, and expected (less than a teaspoon).  A glop of them, or big
chunks, as you describe, are not good.  Where do you think the aluminum
comes from?  Two places.  The case (most likely) or the clutch pistons
(not very likely).  Aluminum chunkies are not good.  If it is magnetic,
then you have some hard parts dying, and you better not drive it. 

Probably the best way to find out what the tranny is doing is to go to a
reputable (not Junky Joe's Transmissions, et al.) trans shop and ask
them to do a pressure check. A guage is fitted to a threaded hole on the
line side of the hydraulics (pressure plug is removed on side of trans)
and a series of load tests are performed.  This can tell you a LOT about
the hydraulic system.

Warning.  If the guy says, "Oh, I can tell without the guage,"  beware. 
He couldn't tell you what pressure you are running without the guage. 
He might just be trying to rebuild your tranny even if it may not need
it.

Good Luck.
My opinion.
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 21:08:04 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: I'm ready to pull my hair out....

About three hours after the head gasket dilemna was solved, another
crisis took place...some b*tch ran into me!

My parents drove the Delta for eighteen years, and the worst that ever
happened was a nasty door ding....but since I've had it, it's been hit
TWICE in ONE (f**kin') WEEK!

I picked the car up from the shop this afternoon around 3:30, came home,
changed, and headed to work.  At about 6:45, a co-worker was outside on
a smoke break, and he came in, and told me that my car had been hit.  By
the time I got outside, the stunned b*tch had left!  She backed into the
right-front corner of the car, breaking the turn signal lens (and
socket), plastic trim, and put a nasty scratch on the paint.  Of course,
I wasn't impressed...but it made me laugh to see pieces of a Toyota
Supra tail light lens scattered on the ground...

So, once again, it looks like I'll be making a trip to El Junque Yarde
tomorrow for the assorted parts...but GET THIS...as long as I've had the
car, the speedo bulbs have never worked...until now!  Why tear apart
your dash?  Save yourself a headache and have some ditzy blonde run into
it!

I've just about had enough of fixing this car...if it costs me another
dime before March, it'll carry on life as a boat anchor.

I just may have to go out for a beer tonight...the only thing better
than a bad mood is spreading it around to people you don't like!

S. Dave Ward

'78 Delta 88 (350 4bbl.) =>...(don't get me started)
'85 Delta 88 (307 4bbl.) =>...still works great
'91 GMC 4x4 (305 TBI)   =>..used as a backup when both Delta's won't go!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 21:17:25 -0500
From: "deirdre. reilly" <102724.635@compuserve.com>
Subject: Vin decode please

Hey everyone,

I happened to get to a salvage yard today and there was a 1975 Delta 88
there.  I was checking out the engine but due to alot of grease buildup I
couldn't see any identifying numbers.  I was able to jot down the vin #. 
So I was hoping someone could tell me what engine is supposed to be in this
car.  I don't think it's a 455 but I'm hoping it is.

Here's the Vin 3N39KF140718.

Thanks for the input.

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme
'83 Cutlass Ciera

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 18:32:33 pst
From: "Dal Allan" <Dal_Allan@mcimail.com>
Subject: intake_manifold

It looks like the intake manifold gasket on our wagon with a 1988 307 cid is 
shot around the front seal because although no fluid seeping out, there is 
the sound of air escaping under pressure. 

The intake manifold is aluminum but as I recall, the earlier years had a 
cast iron manifold, so it would not be hard to get one over the weekend (a 
quick trip to the PiknPull will do the trick). I doubt that any of the 
aluminum intakes at the junkyard are likely to be much better than mine. If 
the gasket failed to keep the materials apart enough to prevent electrolytic 
action on our car, it is unlikely those at PiknPull would be much better. 

Questions: 

 - Does anyone know the reason for GM changing to an aluminum intake? 

 - Is there any disadvantage to using an older series cast iron intake? I'm 
   thinking here of holes drilled for emissions controls. 

 - How long should this job take? I assume a bunch of time will be required 
   to remove/replace all the emissions bits n pieces on top of the manifold. 

 - Are there any 'might-as-wells' while doing this job? 

Dal

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 21:35:41 -0500 (EST)
From: Boaz32@aol.com
Subject: Re: 10.50 ET 70 Cutlass?

I sure wished I was running a sea-level!  Here in Albuquerque we are at
5000'.  That hurts times...however, we have a guy here running 11.22 @117
with an Olds 468 + 100hp shot of Nitros...pretty good for desert rats a mile
high!

Mark

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 21:34:11 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: TH350 shifting wierd..

Mike Rothe wrote:
  
>>>You mention aluminum pieces.  Big ones.  A few "shaving particles" is
>>>normal, and expected (less than a teaspoon).  A glop of them, or big
>>>chunks, as you describe, are not good.  Where do you think the aluminum
>>>comes from?  Two places.  The case (most likely) or the clutch pistons
>>>(not very likely).  Aluminum chunkies are not good.  If it is magnetic,
>>>then you have some hard parts dying, and you better not drive it.

Thanks, guys...now you're starting to make *me* questionable about *my*
transmission.  When I changed the filter and fluid in September, there
were some very fine metal filings in the bottom of the pan.  Of course,
I knew the tranny was certainly starting to wear...this was it's first
tranny service, with 20 years and 183,000km behind it.  These filings
were extremely fine...almost like a gray silt or powder.  Could this be
from the bands slipping during a shift?

From now on I'll be servicing the tranny every 25,000 or so...I also
added a bottle of "Trans-Medic" (what I call "Transmission In A Can). 
The TH-350 still shifts very smooth, and has never caused any serious
problems.  The only problem it had was a simple one...I forgot to attach
the vacuum line off the carb.  I guess this had a similar effect to
putting your foot to the firewall...it shifted into 2nd at 90km/h, and
into 3rd at 125....

S. Dave Ward

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 21:36:53 -0500
From: "deirdre. reilly" <102724.635@compuserve.com>
Subject: picking a lock

Well I have a bunch of questions tonight, so much for my social life on the
weekends.

My brother needed a "new" glove compartment "box" and lock cylinder for his
'86 Cutlass Supreme becuase the previous owner broke them.  So while I was
at the salvage yard today I grabbed one for him.  I just pulled the whole
door assembly off because I figured it would be easier to mess around with
later than there in the yard.  Problem one is that the door is not the
correct color, problem two is there was no key anywhere in the car.  To
remove the lock cylinder from the incorrect colored door, one needs to turn
the lock to the locked position to line up the tumblers with a hole at the
top.  Then one sticks a piece of thin wire in the hole to push down the
tumblers and pull out the lock.  
(I hope all this is making sense)  

So, can anyone suggest someway that I can put the mechanism in the locked
position without a key.  Anyone that knows how to pick a lock want to tell
me how to do this?  Or should I just go to a locksmith?

Thanks in advance.

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme
'83 Cutlass Ciera

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 21:46:59 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Phantom 57

There is a picture on Drew Senko's site of the car I think everyone
has been talking about.
http://members.aol.com/drewinva/olds/lansing/57.jpg

Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass S convertible
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 21:45:58 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: TH350 shifting wierd..

Dave Paulison wrote:
> 
> Hi Folks,
> 
> I'm having a problem with the tranny in my '69 Olds.  It's a TH350 out of
> a '77 or '78 Cutlass (can't remember which..), and has been in the car
> for about 6 years.  It's had fluid and filter changes every 10,000 -
> 12,000 miles, and I've had no problems with it...'til now.
> 
> It works fine right after the first start up in the morning, but when it
> gets good and warmed up after 5 or 10 minutes of driving, it kind of
> slips out of third back down into second.  If I stop at a light or stop
> sign, then resume travel, it will shift normally, but after a few seconds
> in drive it will do the downshift into second thing.  It's a wierd
> downshift, too.  Not at all normal; very, very smooth, and I can only
> tell it does it by the increase in engine rpm's.  If I put the trans in
> neutral while travelling, rev the engine, then put it back in "D", it
> will shift back into third, and often stay there for minutes at a time
> (WOW!).  But it always downshifts.

I'm no transmissional genius, but I've got two ideas of what's causing
this.  Number one, the modulator valve (or kickdown) isn't operating
very well, and won't let it stay in top gear.  Check the vacuum line to
it too...

My second guess...er..*idea* is this;  you've got a pressure leak inside
the tranny, which could be caused by a blown internal seal or a sluggish
valve.  When the oil is cold, it's thicker, and boosts up the pressure,
which might be enough to overcome this pressure loss.  But once the oil
warms up, and is less viscous (thinner), it's easier to pump, which
drops the pressure...and it's likely enough to cause this downshifting.
The only way to fix this is to pull out the tranny, which isn't my idea
of fun on Friday night, and I'm sure you can agree.  What I suggest is
this...try a bottle of Trans-Medic (which I call "Transmission In A
Can").  It eliminates slippage, gear whine, down-shifting, and helps
keep the seals moist.  If you're looking for a quick, inexpensive fix,
use it...of course, it's only temporary (you have to add it every
25,000km).  But, you get what you pay for...nothing will cure this
better than a rebuilt tranny.

> I did find some small pieces of aluminum in the pan last time I changed
> the fluid/filter; that was about 2,000 miles ago.  There were four
> irregularly shaped pieces, between 1/16" and 1/8" in size.  A bit
> discouraging, to say the least.

Discouraging?  It's a regular kick in the *ss...

S. Dave Ward

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 21:47:25 -0500
From: "deirdre. reilly" <102724.635@compuserve.com>
Subject: Breather elements

One last question for the night,

I have a problem with the breather element on my Ciera.  This is the small
filter that sticks out of my valve cover and into my air filter housing. 
BTW it's a 4 cyl Pontiac engine, but I assume this little filter serves the
same purpose on all engines.  It seems that it is not filering or keeping
the engine oil in the valve cover area.  Oil blows right through the filter
and gets sucked into the main air filter.  I have to "mop" up a puddle of
oil every week from the inside of my air cleaner housing.  I'm pretty sure
it's not a good idea to have motor oil going through the intake like this.

So my question would be, is it not a good idea to plug this vent/filter
hole in the valve cover?  Should I try a different brand of filter? (It's a
Hastings)  What could happen if I did plug this vent up?

Once again, I thank you for any assistance on this matter.

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme
'83 Cutlass Ciera

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 21:47:25 -0500
From: "deirdre. reilly" <102724.635@compuserve.com>
Subject: Breather elements

One last question for the night,

I have a problem with the breather element on my Ciera.  This is the small
filter that sticks out of my valve cover and into my air filter housing. 
BTW it's a 4 cyl Pontiac engine, but I assume this little filter serves the
same purpose on all engines.  It seems that it is not filering or keeping
the engine oil in the valve cover area.  Oil blows right through the filter
and gets sucked into the main air filter.  I have to "mop" up a puddle of
oil every week from the inside of my air cleaner housing.  I'm pretty sure
it's not a good idea to have motor oil going through the intake like this.

So my question would be, is it not a good idea to plug this vent/filter
hole in the valve cover?  Should I try a different brand of filter? (It's a
Hastings)  What could happen if I did plug this vent up?

Once again, I thank you for any assistance on this matter.

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme
'83 Cutlass Ciera

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 21:36:11 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: TH350 shifting wierd..

Dave, from what you describe, I would think is about time for a 
different trainy....Definatly check the vacume line though, I had 
similar problems in my 77 Cutlass and thats all it was. my 2 cents


> Date sent:      Fri, 21 Nov 1997 21:45:58 -0500
> From:           Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
> To:             oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:        Re: TH350 shifting wierd..
> Send reply to:  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

> Dave Paulison wrote:
> > 
> > Hi Folks,
> > 
> > I'm having a problem with the tranny in my '69 Olds.  It's a TH350 out of
> > a '77 or '78 Cutlass (can't remember which..), and has been in the car
> > for about 6 years.  It's had fluid and filter changes every 10,000 -
> > 12,000 miles, and I've had no problems with it...'til now.
> > 
> > It works fine right after the first start up in the morning, but when it
> > gets good and warmed up after 5 or 10 minutes of driving, it kind of
> > slips out of third back down into second.  If I stop at a light or stop
> > sign, then resume travel, it will shift normally, but after a few seconds
> > in drive it will do the downshift into second thing.  It's a wierd
> > downshift, too.  Not at all normal; very, very smooth, and I can only
> > tell it does it by the increase in engine rpm's.  If I put the trans in
> > neutral while travelling, rev the engine, then put it back in "D", it
> > will shift back into third, and often stay there for minutes at a time
> > (WOW!).  But it always downshifts.
> 
> I'm no transmissional genius, but I've got two ideas of what's causing
> this.  Number one, the modulator valve (or kickdown) isn't operating
> very well, and won't let it stay in top gear.  Check the vacuum line to
> it too...
> 
> My second guess...er..*idea* is this;  you've got a pressure leak inside
> the tranny, which could be caused by a blown internal seal or a sluggish
> valve.  When the oil is cold, it's thicker, and boosts up the pressure,
> which might be enough to overcome this pressure loss.  But once the oil
> warms up, and is less viscous (thinner), it's easier to pump, which
> drops the pressure...and it's likely enough to cause this downshifting.
> The only way to fix this is to pull out the tranny, which isn't my idea
> of fun on Friday night, and I'm sure you can agree.  What I suggest is
> this...try a bottle of Trans-Medic (which I call "Transmission In A
> Can").  It eliminates slippage, gear whine, down-shifting, and helps
> keep the seals moist.  If you're looking for a quick, inexpensive fix,
> use it...of course, it's only temporary (you have to add it every
> 25,000km).  But, you get what you pay for...nothing will cure this
> better than a rebuilt tranny.
> 
> > I did find some small pieces of aluminum in the pan last time I changed
> > the fluid/filter; that was about 2,000 miles ago.  There were four
> > irregularly shaped pieces, between 1/16" and 1/8" in size.  A bit
> > discouraging, to say the least.
> 
> Discouraging?  It's a regular kick in the *ss...
> 
> S. Dave Ward
> 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Fax (815) 235-6130
Home Page http://www.highland.cc.il.us
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few, or the one."

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 21:39:32 -0600 (CST)
From: David Watkins <dwatkins@tulsa.oklahoma.net>
Subject: 1970 Rallye 350

Have a 70 rallye that I need a grill. Anyone have suggestions?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 23:13:54 -0500 (EST)
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: Re: 3-on-the-tree C/S Ragtop

  E&G auto motive  everett, has a 3 on the tree.. cutlass..
 olds guy ga....

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 23:15:38 -0500 (EST)
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: Re: VIN decoding

 tucker ga is where olds guy is also from...  need any 70-2 cutlass parts
call him
  jeff....

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 15:45:49 -0500 (EST)
From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: 3-on-the-tree C/S Ragtop

 I'm sure this is a rare car, usually F-85 inline 6 cyl but Sup Conv  Rare
Rare Rare

I have a 72 Supreme Coupe 350  4v , A/C,  AM/FM, Bucket seats 3-on-the-tree
and thats rare.

Everett OCA# 1961    1961 Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 22:46:00 -0700
From: "Clarence R. Isaacks II" <ike.isaacks-denver@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Oil Gauge Question

Erik Badzinski wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I have a 1972 Cutlass S.  I would like to know where I put the Oil
> Pressure Gauge.  The engine is a 350 Small block, and it has a
> Elderbrock Performer 350 Olds Intake Manifold.  Also, where would I put
> the Water Temp gauge?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Erik B.

I mounted the same gauges on the left windshield pillar.  Summit and
others sells a one or two gauge pod setup that fit a ch*vy truck, but
with a good heat gun you can mold the unit to fit the Olds.  This
location is best because you don't have to take your eyes off the road
for too long.  The only other place is hanging under the dash.  Tacky.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 01:04:59 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: Breather elements

deirdre. reilly wrote:
> So my question would be, is it not a good idea to plug this vent/filter
> hole in the valve cover?  Should I try a different brand of filter? (It's a
> Hastings)  What could happen if I did plug this vent up?

I am not the world's greatest mechanic, nor do I claim to be...  (Had to
get it out of the way)

My 77 Mustang used to do the same thing, and I couldn't ever figure out
why, so I changed every filter I could find in the car...  From the
water pump on back to the tail pipe....  One at a time though...  My
problem cleared up when I changed the PCV valve...  Luck or science??  I
dunno, my it's just lucky science...  <G>
 
> Once again, I thank you for any assistance on this matter.

Good Luck...
- -- 
             		    Jerry Christopher
     ___        HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
 ___/.o \__, 	     1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
_=O------O=__________It ain't my father's Oldsmobile_______

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 01:07:27 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: fast coolant

dana@asicstiger.com wrote:

> I'm sorry, I must dispute that claim of 1.2 million hp.  everyone knows the
>       toro cam doesn't have enough duration for more than 1.187 million
>       horsepower.

Huh?  My manual says it can handle 1.1895 HP....  Oh well....
- -- 
             		    Jerry Christopher
     ___        HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
 ___/.o \__, 	     1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
_=O------O=__________It ain't my father's Oldsmobile_______

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 01:11:46 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: I'm ready to pull my hair out....

Dave Ward wrote:

> So, once again, it looks like I'll be making a trip to El Junque Yarde
> tomorrow for the assorted parts...but GET THIS...as long as I've had the
> car, the speedo bulbs have never worked...until now!  Why tear apart
> your dash?  Save yourself a headache and have some ditzy blonde run into
> it!


Hahah, I am laughing with you...  <G> I had that too...  Except it was
me that backed into my own front quarter (When I worked driving a 78
Chevy Delivery Truck) and drove a 78 LeSabre...  Sure looked ugly, but,
the car never ran better...
 
> I've just about had enough of fixing this car...if it costs me another
> dime before March, it'll carry on life as a boat anchor.

That's how I got my Olds...  All those minutes I COULDA racked up, but
NO some stupid piece of junk 77 Mustang II had better ideas....
- -- 
             		    Jerry Christopher
     ___        HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
 ___/.o \__, 	     1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
_=O------O=__________It ain't my father's Oldsmobile_______

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Nov 1997 01:21:47 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: Lexus bashing

hpnaepflin@CCGATE.HAC.COM wrote:

> The reason GM and the big three have been moving toward copying the styling of
> the imports is that they are trying to shed their reputation of inferior quality
> and latch onto the imports image of better quality.  Bland generic midsized
> sedans are a status symbol now because all the German and especially Japanese
> midsized sedans of the 80's which generally could be driven 200,000 miles or
> more with no major work.

I think they should aim towards actual mechanics of the car, not the car
as a whole.  But then again, i'll run my 87 til the motor quits, and
then get another motor...  132K and it still purrs like a kitten....
 
> In my experience, an american transmission built in the 80's has virtually no
> chance of making it past 150000 miles without an overhaul.  The old V8 engines
> can make it into the 150-200k range, but you can forget it for the 4s and 6s.

Been thru 2 GM Trannies...  A TH350, and a TH400 (Both in the 78
LeSabre) and they didn't handle the beating that an 18 year old punk
with a fresh liscense could dish...  Man it feels good to be a little
older, and a little wiser.

> Likewise, it seems that you can pretty much figure that the paint on a 10 year
> old american car is going to be shot, Chryslers and Fords are definitley worse
> than GMs in this regard.

Mid 80's paint from the domestic market sucked...  My girlfriend's 87
Honda is about the same color as my 87...  Unfortunately, 10 years of
garage keeping make my Olds look a heck of a lot better, and it holds a
good coat of wax REAL good.

> Pretty much by 150k you've got a car that's pretty much a beater and is gonna
> take continuous work to keep it going  unless its been really pampered with
> garaged parking and taking it back to the dealer to take care of a string of
> TSBs.

True, unless it was pampered it's whole life.

> Hey, I'm always going to drive an old Oldsmobile but I enjoy tinkering with it
> on weekends.  It's cheap, and as long as keep on top of the problems, reliable
> and looks and sounds cool.

Hahahah...  No joke.
 
> For 20 grand and up, the new car buyer isn't willing to put up with the crap the
> big three expect you to put up with.  And remember, its the new car buyer, not
> the old car fanatic that the big three has to please!

True...  And yeah, a lot of the new breed of cars is cool to the younger
consumer...  But hey, let's see some good 2Dr returns!!  <G>
 
- -- 
             		    Jerry Christopher
     ___        HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
 ___/.o \__, 	     1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
_=O------O=__________It ain't my father's Oldsmobile_______

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #966
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