To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #929


oldsmobile-digest      Thursday, October 30 1997      Volume 01 : Number 929



Re: HEI Swaps?(403-455 interchange)
Re[2]: What to do?
Split Fire
RE: Quad 4 Trannies
Re: Re[2]: What to do?
RE: Split Fire
Re: Re[2]: What to do?
Re: Re[2]: What to do?
Re: 455 crank
1973 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser Station Wagons
in a movie
Re: Stinky Upholstery--yuk
Re: 1973 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser Station Wagons
Halloween Parade duty
Re: Firewall Insulation
'66 Toro standard or deluxe?
Re: Which Tranny Swaps?
Re: PAW 403
Re: Stinky Upholstery--yuk
Numbers Matching?
Re: Firewall Insulation
Re[3]: What to do?
Re: No Comment on cool brake tricks?
Re: 200-4R depression
Re: D88 Water Leaks
Re: 200-4R depression
[none]
Re: Re[2]: What to do?
Re: What to do?
Re: Re[2]: What to do?
Re: 200-4R depression
Re: 200-4R depression
Rattle in rear end of 84 Olds Cutlass Supreme
Synthetic oils, etc...  (was: Pistons and Lubricants)
Re: What to do?
Re: What to do?
New Olds fan needs help
Re: Cutlass Seats
Re: Cutlass Seats
Re: New Olds fan needs help
Re: Rattle in rear end of 84 Olds Cutlass Supreme
Re: Cutlass Seats
F/S in local paper
Re: '66 Toro standard or deluxe?
Re: Rattle in rear end of 84 Olds Cutlass Supreme
Re: 200-4R depression
Re: Cutlass Seats
Re: Rattle in rear end of 84 Olds Cutlass Supreme
1970 Wiring Diagram
Re: When was your W-30 built ?
Re: Split Fire
Re: Holley Carb.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 07:01:33 -0500 (EST)
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: HEI Swaps?(403-455 interchange)

ok lets get this out in the open first.  the 403 is a small block and a 455
is a big block.  all accessory brackets interchange.  pulleys, distributers,
valve covers, oil pans, oil pumps, carberators, camshafts, timing chains,
front covers, and even water pumps will interchange.  that's all i can think
of off the top of my head.

mikey tvb@aol.com
73 cutlass w/403

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 06:25:53 -0600
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re[2]: What to do?

GM went to black for a minor heat reduction improvement.  Black color
radiates heat more effectively then lighter colors.  Look at any race
car engine, most are black.  Like your radiator is most likely black.
White REFLECTS heat,. Black absorbs it, but black also radiates it as
well.  If white was a better color, your wife's skillets would be white
instead of black.  Just the laws of nature!

From what I have read, in CA, you can make an engine swap as long as the
engine is the same FAMILY.  So, you can replace your 307 with a 260,
330, 350 or 403 without ANY trouble.  Or if it came with a Buick V6, you
must keep a Buick V6, so a 252 is about all you can pull off.  But the
catch is all emissions devices that were originally installed on the 307
(or original engine) must be installed and working.  No matter what year
of the engine.  Some people believe that is dependant on the engine
year.  Think about this, that would benefit US, so you can count on it
not being the case!!  You probably could slide a 455 in there, keep
everything looking stock, (SMOG pump and all) and I doubt anyone would
know any better, well, except the guy in the Ru$tang in between gas
stations!

So you can legally install a 350 or 403, (I would match factory color if
at all possible!) just install all the ECM and emissions devices.  My
experience with a 350 in place of my 307 in my 85 Cutlass is it is the
best swap possible.  The 350's extra torque and stronger vacuum make the
car a much better driving machine.  All you need is about 15% throttle
in high gear to accelerate from 40 to 70 easily and smartly with my
Bonneville 2.14 gears.  Sorry, the 307 never was that strong feeling.

Just my couple pennies worth!
Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 07:49:39 -0500
From: Joseph Gambaccini <jgambaccini@ci.richmond.va.us>
Subject: Split Fire

Have any of you all tried those "splitfire" spark plugs (or any other
brand that have the same claim) that supposedly increase horsepower???
'Not worth the extra money, right?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 07:35:12 -0600
From: Mike Taylor <MTaylor@msi-us.com>
Subject: RE: Quad 4 Trannies

Jeff,

The service manual for the '88 Grand Am lists the Getrag unit as well as
an Isuzu built 5 speed.  I'm not sure if the Isuzu unit was used with
the Quad 4 though....

Mike Taylor

>----------
>From: jeff antonucci[SMTP:antonj@erols.com]
>Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 1997 9:14 PM
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: Re: Quad 4 Trannies
>
>Jeff,
>
>I have read that there were two different 5spd trannies.  With the
>Muncie built Getrag design bieng the one to get.  Can anyone else
>confirm this?
>
>Jeff Antonucci '91 Quad 442 W-41
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 08:51:10 -0500 (EST)
From: Olds307Y@aol.com
Subject: Re: Re[2]: What to do?

yes they did gm started painting all there engines black which my problem is
that the guy who did my heads paintd them olds blue they look good but when i
pop the hood the stick out

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 08:53:31 -0500
From: "VanSant, David CWO" <DVanSant@lantd5.uscg.mil>
Subject: RE: Split Fire

While some people swear by them, I generally swear at them.  I have
worked on several engines that had pistons literally destroyed by
"Split-Fire" spark plugs.  I.E., Holes in the dome, chunks missing from
the edges of the slugs.

I run AC-Delco's in my Rocket 350 and Champion Racing plugs in my 455
race engine.

If you're looking for a little extra horsepower by changing plugs, try
tinkering with the various heat ranges on the stock plugs.


Dave Van Sant
dvansant@lantd5.uscg.mil
'71 Topless Cutlass Supreme
'88 Plymouth Sundance
'89 Chevrolet Astro
'96 Plymouth Neon DOHC

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 08:54:32 -0500 (EST)
From: Olds307Y@aol.com
Subject: Re: Re[2]: What to do?

yes they did gm started painting all there engines black which my problem is
that the guy who did my heads paintd them olds blue they look good but when i
pop the hood the stick out

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 08:59:27 -0500 (EST)
From: Olds307Y@aol.com
Subject: Re: Re[2]: What to do?

On the 307 swap to a different size engine is totaly up to you but with the
right wor your 307 could be just like my big bad 307 i could infortunatly say
runs with 350 gold motors and wins depending how fast i stand on the pedal.
So being in your situation like as i was a couple months ago i had my heads
done, i changed the carb, ,distrubutor , i gapped the plugs at .060 instead
.080 i feel a quicker response alos i put a accel super hei coil. And i do
not plan i on running NOS no olds motor needs it to beat a Rustang 5.slow Oh
alos i put roloer rocker on 1.2 : 1ratio

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 09:07:10 -0500 (EST)
From: Benjamin Ray Cook <bc3273@cs.cs.appstate.edu>
Subject: Re: 455 crank

Glenn all I can say is its gonna take alot of money and alot of my time
porting the heads and intake. I've tried several combinations on my
computer dyno and talked to some of the guys at the local machine shop and
have come up with what seems to be a good start. 800 hp is not impossible
but it's costly.

On Thu, 30 Oct 1997, Glenn Connors wrote:

> At 11:48 AM 10/29/97 -0500, you wrote:
> >No Glenn it wasn't a typo. Hate to do it but if it gives as much of a
> >performance gain as I have heard then I think I can live with having a few
> >Chevrolet parts here and there.
> >
> >
> >
> >> At 05:20 PM 10/27/97 -0500, you wrote:
> >> >Has anyone ever heard of grinding a 455 crank down and using big block
> >> >Chevrolet rods? From what I hear you can get a little over 500 cid from
> >> >doing this. Also does anyone know the limit on boring a 455? I think I
> >> >found a couple more ways to put me into 800hp naturally just wanting to
> >> >run them by you guys and get your input.
> >> >
> >
>
>    Ben, I was talking about the 800 HP. Geez, clue me in here.
>
>
>   Glenn
>   '69 4-4-2
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 13:29:08 -0800
From: camenz@internet-australia.com (camenz)
Subject: 1973 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser Station Wagons

G'day Olds fans!!!

My name is Glen and I am writing to you all the way from Sydney,
Australia. Oldsmobiles are very rare cars out here - in fact, there are
hardly any at all! The same goes for Buicks, Cadillacs, Chevrolets,
Pontiacs, etc. I actually own a Buick myself (1973 Buick Electra
Limited) and I am a member of the Buick Car Club of Australia, but I
have fallen in love with one particular Oldsmobile.....don't think I'm
weird or anything but the Olds that I would love to own is a 1973
Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser Station Wagon. Man, those wagons are totally
cool!!! I saw one in a magazine called 'Classic American' once and I
have wanted one ever since. Although I am not in a position to buy one
right now, (currently restoring my Buick) I would love to see some more
pictures and learn more about the specs on the '73 wagons. Can anyone
help me out??

The '73 Olds I saw in Classic American had been picked up by a guy named
Jim who runs a service station in Pleasanton, California. He picks up
dumped or abandoned cars from the nearby freeway and then charges the
owner a $75 recovery fee. If the owner doesn't cough up within 28 days,
the car becomes legally his. Well....Jim sold the Olds to an English
couple who were visiting America and wanted to use the Olds as a touring
car. It went for a whole $700 US dollars!!! They used it for six weeks
and drove 7,000 miles. It was eventually sold to a girl from Oregon for
$300!!!! She is one lucky bird!!! If I could buy a '73 Olds Custom
Cruiser for $300, I'd be cheerin'!!!! This particular Olds was green and
had those 'wooden' side panels. Under the bonnet (or hood as you guys
call it!!) was a 454ci V8 which had just been re-conditioned.

There are thousands of American car fans down under but not all of us
can afford to run them. Petrol is about 4 times more expensive here but
at least we still have leaded fuel. We also drive on 'the other side' of
the road so our cars are right-hand drive. Converting a car from left to
right hand drive costs about $7,000 to $10,000 out here, depending on
the car. Luckily my Buick had already been converted when I bought it so
somebody else suffered the expense!! There is no way I am going to ever
find a 1973 Olds Custom Cruiser in Australia so unless I get lucky, I'll
have to import one.

In the meantime, I need your help!! If anyone can lend a hand, I'd love
to know more about Oldsmobiles (particularly the '73's) and I want to
hear about your projects too!!! Drop me a line at:

camenz@internet-australia.com

Good on ya!!!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 09:49:49 -0500 (EST)
From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Subject: in a movie

  Got a call last night from the production manager for the movie "Outside
Providence" a movie being filmed here by Mike Corrente. They want my 71 Vista
Cruiser AKA "The Booger" for the movie. Great so now starting Saturday My
Vista Cruiser and my sons 71 Supreme Conv are going to used in a lot of
scenes for this movie which takes place in the late 60's and early 70's. We
get to drive them and see how the movie is made at the same time, great fun I
hope.

Everett  OCAª 1961   1961 Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 09:08:00 -0600
From: "babbott@pdnt.com" <babbott@pdnt.com>
Subject: Re: Stinky Upholstery--yuk

My wife runs a cleaning business and she uses a product called odo-ban,
comes in a gallon jug at sam's club. It works great and does not leave a
strong smell.

- ----------
> From: Peg O'Connor <peg@grove.ufl.edu>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Stinky Upholstery--yuk
> Date: Thursday, October 30, 1997 1:41 AM
>
>
> Hi guys --
>
> Well, I've gotten myself into a mess and am hoping someone can offer
> advice.  Last weekend I went to Osprey, Florida, for a show, and managed
> to park in a place infested with ants, who found their way into my car.
> I blasted the interior with bug spray, which took care of the ants, but
> now my poor car smells like Raid!  The humidity down here makes it even
> worse, and I'm making excuses to people to avoid having them ride in my
> car.  Baking soda and the usual airing-out aren't cutting it -- this is
> baaaaad.  Anyone have any tricks I can use?  TIA
>
> 8)
> peg (holding her nose in Florida)
> '78 Cutlass Calais
> '86 Cutlass Supreme
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 10:07:36 -0500
From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Subject: Re: 1973 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser Station Wagons

At 01:29 PM 10/30/1997 -0800, you wrote:

>don't think I'm
>weird or anything but the Olds that I would love to own is a 1973
>Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser Station Wagon. Man, those wagons are totally
>cool!!! I saw one in a magazine called 'Classic American' once and I
>have wanted one ever since. Although I am not in a position to buy one
>right now, (currently restoring my Buick) I would love to see some more
>pictures and learn more about the specs on the '73 wagons. Can anyone
>help me out??

I don't think you're weird!!!

I turned 16 in 1973, and a 1973 Custom Cruiser wagon was the car I learned
to drive on!  I have very fond memories of that beast, and I have an ad for
1973 Olds station wagons hanging on my office wall.  Ours was two-tone red
with a white top, had a luggage rack and a lot of other bells and whistles
(cruise control, AM/FM stereo, power windows and locks, electric retracting
tailgate, electric rear window defogger, which was still a fairly new thing
at the time, etc.).  My dad kept it for three years before trading it on an
even bigger beast, a '76 Cadillac Sedan de Ville with the 500 cube engine.

I don't have any info on specs, and the only strong memory I have of the
car was when I had it at college for about 6 weeks in 1975.  It chewed
gasoline SO rapidly that it was unbelievable.  The gas gauge would move
from "F" to "E" as rapidly as the speedometer would move from 0 to 60.  Ten
miles per gallon was considered good.

I'd jump on one, too, if I came across it now.  The problem is that station
wagons tended to get driven, not preserved, so the samples that remain tend
to look their age.  But I still see the occasional '71-'76 era Custom
Cruisers, with their clamshell tailgates, going down the highway.  They're
usually rusted to hell, have no hubcaps, sag severely on one side, and have
at least one bumper made out of wood, but they're still in service.


Good luck!


Dan


*********************************************
Dan Gulino
1975 Delta 88 Convertible
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/rides.html
*********************************************

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 10:13:25 -0500 (EST)
From: "Andrew A. Senko" <senko@reston.ans.net>
Subject: Halloween Parade duty

It's that time of year again.  I drove my 71 C/S convertible in the local
Halloween parade last night.  I volunteer every year, and let the parade
organizers choose a dignitary to put in the back of my car for the parade.

This year, the local Thunderbird club had also offered several cars for
parade duty.  It looked like they were all from 1956.  Anyway, the parade
organizers had last minute changes about who would ride in my car.  I got
to drive the "Optimist of the Year", Bonnie Brown.  Funny title, I thought,
until I found out that the Optimists are a group that does work with youth
organizations.

So I'm talking to Bonnie, who is admiring my car, and it's apparent that
she didn't know she would be riding in my car.  She thought she was going
to be in a T-bird.  I said "I guess they ran out of T-birds; but you'll be
in a more unique car for this parade -- the only Oldsmobile among all those
T-birds."

To which Bonnie replied "That's ok.  I'm originally from LANSING MICHIGAN."
What car do you think she preferred to ride in?  Yep!  The Olds!  I told
her that I was in Lansing this summer for the 100th anniversary.  Maybe
it's a coincidence, or maybe there's some cosmic phenomenon that caused her
to be placed in my car.  Hmmm....

A good parade was had by all.

- --                                                               _
Drew Senko                     1971 Oldsmobile                   |\
Vienna, VA, USA                Cutlass Supreme    .__====-_._____|_\______
senko@reston.ans.net             Convertible      [   ___  |-     |  ___  \
http://members.aol.com/drewinva                   =\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)
______________________________________________________\_/____________\_/_____

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 08:21:21 -0700
From: "Travis Adams" <cashmore@imt.net>
Subject: Re: Firewall Insulation

Check with any of the resto companies (Year One, Brothers, Fusick, Etc.).
They all have the correct insulation pad you are looking for.  Round about
figure will be $32.
Travis Adams
65 442 post

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 07:33:41 -0800 (PST)
From: Davy Borghys <toronado@rocketmail.com>
Subject: '66 Toro standard or deluxe?

Hi,

thanks all for the kind postings re the value of a
'66 Toro.

Would like to point out that my question did not have
anything to do with investment, but with paying a
correct price for buying a nice car (that I will
probably never sell) --- if I had to believe Mr
Langworth's words back from '87 I'd possibly be
telling the owner "Your asking price is 6K $, but
here's 8K, keep the change" thinking the car would be
worth 25K...

About the prices you mentioned: it's about 4K to ship
and import a car to Europe (especially taxes are very
high on import), so paying anything less than 6K for
a US car over here is more or less impossible
(although only 1 of the previous owners has to import
that car of course...).

With being eager to know prices, I forgot to ask a
second piece of information.
I am aware that there were two versions: the standard
version (about 6500 made I believe) and the '66 Toro
Deluxe (about 34000 made if I recall correctly).
Which one is the most favorable and how can they be
distinguished (options, trim, extra package, body tag
differences...)?

Thanks for your thoughts.

Davy, Belgium
_____________________________________________________________________
Sent by RocketMail. Get your free e-mail at http://www.rocketmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 08:37:37 -0700 (MST)
From: Terrill Yuhas <tyuhas@mail.arl.arizona.edu>
Subject: Re: Which Tranny Swaps?

> My tranny's just beginning to act up, so I'll need to make a decision at
> some point, just collecting info so I know what my choices are when the
> time comes.

There's a nice section in the FAQ on this.  You may want to take some time
and look through the tranny section.

If you're happy with the way your gearing is set up now, it may be easier
and cheaper to just get yours rebuilt.  Unless you're putting lower gears
in the rear-end, you may not be getting much of an advantage with an OD
tranny.  I haven't done this swap yet but some of the first-hand stories
I've heard make me believe it is a little more involved than just slapping
one tranny in for the other.

I guess it would also depend on if you were going to do any of the work
yourself.  Some of the price quotes on getting the pros to do the job
seemed rather steep (at least to me).  With these $2000 or so quotes, it
pushed the option into the same range as getting an add-on OD unit for
your TH350/TH400.  One particular unit I saw (Gear Vendors) was a combo
UD/OD that gave your 3spd auto the equivalent of 6spd.  If anyone's
interested, I'll look for the info I got from them.  It's about a year old
but still neat reading.

Terrill

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 08:35:22 -0700
From: "Travis Adams" <cashmore@imt.net>
Subject: Re: PAW 403

It has quite a selection.  I don't think that just because a company
doesn't list a part does not mean that they don't carry it.  A lot of times
all you have to do is ask.  Paw does list more than any other catalog I've
seen though it is 950 pages thick!
Travis Adams
65 442 post

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 10:44:20 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Stinky Upholstery--yuk

Peg O'Connor wrote:
>
> Hi guys --
>
> Well, I've gotten myself into a mess and am hoping someone can offer
> advice.  Last weekend I went to Osprey, Florida, for a show, and managed
> to park in a place infested with ants, who found their way into my car.
> I blasted the interior with bug spray, which took care of the ants, but
> now my poor car smells like Raid!  The humidity down here makes it even
> worse, and I'm making excuses to people to avoid having them ride in my
> car.  Baking soda and the usual airing-out aren't cutting it -- this is
> baaaaad.  Anyone have any tricks I can use?  TIA
>
> 8)
> peg (holding her nose in Florida)
> '78 Cutlass Calais
> '86 Cutlass Supreme

Peg, I don't know how good it is, but I've always heard that charcoal
extracts odors.  I'm sure someone on the list has had to address this
problem from time to time.  Good luck!!

Don Sowers

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 10:51:48 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Numbers Matching?

Hi everybody!  I was wondering if there are any serial numbers on the rear
axle of my car that I might have lost when I swapped axles.  I put in an
axle from a 1984 Grand Prix for its posi stuff.  So, can I still say that I
have a numbers-matching car?  The only mechanical thing that has been
changed is the rear axle.  Thanks and have a safe Halloween.
_______________________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
OCA ª028044

http://www.erols.com/adcockjk
1984 Cutlass Supreme Calais
1992 Ford Crown Victoria LX
1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 97 11:24:51 -0500
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: Firewall Insulation

Ya know that fibrous firewall insulation...
What, if anything, have you all replaced it with?

     The street rod crowd has been using an aluminized sound deadening
     material for some time.  It has good thermal insulation as well as
     sound reducing properties.  Pick up a copy of Street Rodder magazine
     and check the ads.

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 97 10:47:41 -0500
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re[3]: What to do?

I suggested:

..Just paint it GM corporate blue.  I'd go so far as

Doc (she's real fine, my 409) Bob noted:

Just a note: didn't GM go to a "corporate black" to further un-distinguish
their "corporate" motors?

     Yep.  Just showing my ignorance about any Olds built after 1972.
     (As a side note, I saw a 72 Supreme at the Templeton show with a decal
     in the back window proclaiming:

     "It's true Olds built cars after 1972, but who the h*ll cares?"

     Couldn't have said it better myself :-)

     Joe (self-proclaimed A-body snob) Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 10:52:55 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: No Comment on cool brake tricks?

>Hey!

zzzzz... hum, Oh, wait, us??? ;)

>Didn't anybody care that I mounted the see through reservoir from a Fiero
>on the 79 Toro master cylinder in my 98? Can't beat a modern brake system
>on a big old car.

I for one thought that was a neat trick, but I've never had to convert a
single-circuit to a dual-circuit system, so I just filed it away for future
reference.

>I thought this a cool fix that would work well for A,B and C bodies with
>vertical (as opposed to canted) firewalls. This would include, oh, 65-70
>big cars and the Cutlaii.

Actually, the booster mounts at an angle on my Cutlass, even though the
firewall is vertical. I don't know what kind of resevoir would be best for
that setup.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 10:57:47 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: 200-4R depression

>Damn it.  I had my father call a friend of his who owns a transmission
>shop to get an estimate on a TH350 to TH200-4R conversion in my 87
>Cutlass.  The estimate is $1500-2000!  Can this be accurate.

I suppose it depends upon his labor charge, and how built the TH200-4R is
(which it ought to be, if it's going behind a built 403).

>What jacks up the cost is:
>- ->I took the computer out of my car, so I would need a separate switch to
>  lock up the torque converter.
>- ->Extra brackerty would need to be fabricated for the carb.
>- ->Cut and balance driveshaft. <- Is this necessary for 350-2004R swap?!!

As others noted, there are factory pieces or original pieces that would
work for this.

>I would not want to have any trans. work done by anyone but him, but if I
>spend that much money, I won't even be able to afford a shifter for the
>transmission!

The stock shifter could do for now, if absolutely necessary. Or sell the
old TH350 for the price of a new shifter.

>My main question is, what can I do about not having the computer in my
>car.  (I won't replace, that's not an option)  What did they do prior to
>81 with AOD cars?  Was it a different trans.  If so, what?  Also, is it

I don't think there were any RWD AOD GM cars before computers.

>necessary to have a locking troque converter?  What are the
>advantages/disadvantages of having a non-lockup or a lockup?

Less slippage= better mileage, lower operating temperatures, greater
efficiency. They unlock whenever you need torque multiplication, so there's
no real drawback, as long as you can wire it up.

>Thankyou.  I won't kill myself yet.

OK, just let us know when it's time, so we can buy your car at the estate
sale... ;)
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 11:39:43 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Subject: Re: D88 Water Leaks

Hi Greg,

> Are you saying that I can get at this by just removing the air intake
> grill at the base of the windshield? That's what I tried last time and I
> don't recall seeing a seam that I didn't seal. Is it visible?

Assuming the non-A/C layout is similar, removing that grill is all that
should be necessary.  The first repair attempt involved re-sealing the
box/cowl interface, almost directly under the plastic grill, which didn't
work. Try shining a lamp into the cavity to inspect the "floor".  The seam
is too distant for use with a caulking gun.  The junction should be
several inches in front of the firewall.

Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 11:38:12 -0500
From: Howie <qcquad@cuny.campus.mci.net>
Subject: Re: 200-4R depression

also consider having an internal lock-up for the converter

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 11:46:29 -0500
From: tgstoner@umich.edu
Subject: [none]

On Wed, 29 Oct 1997 DROLDS350@aol.com wrote:

> Can somebody give me some information on a 1979 Hurst Olds? It's mint
> condition, dualgate, white with gold, says W-30 and has a 350. Can
somebody
> give me some information on a car like this? What type of rear end would
be
> in it? Are these cars valuable? Is it a rare car?
>
> Thanks,
> Jim

**************************
Jim,

There were 2,499 Hurst/Oldsmobiles built in 1979.  They were available in
either black or white, with gold.  All had the Olds 350 V-8 and THM 350
transmission which were standard in the Delta 88 that year.  These were the
only Cutlass-bodied cars built with the Olds 350 in 1979.

To order a '79 H/O, you had to start by ordering a Cutlass Calais.
Therefore all of the standard Calais features for that year, such as
reclining bucket seats and Rallye Pack instrumentation, were standard on
the H/O.  In addition to the 350/350 engine and transmission combination,
the Hurst/Olds package included aluminum wheels and the two-tone sport
paint which were Cutlass options.  Only on the Hurst/Olds however, were the
wheels painted gold and was the second paint color gold.  No other
Oldsmobile in 1979 used that gold paint, but I believe that it was
available on some Pontiacs.  Also, only on the H/O were the hood ornament
and rocket emblem on the header panel in black.  On a "normal" Calais,
these were both red.  Finally, the H/O package included the Dual Gate
shifter, which was installed in the standard Calais console.  I believe
that all of these cars had a 2.73 to 1 final drive ratio, regardless of if
the alxe was limited slip or not.  These were the only year of Hurst/Olds
production which were produced completely in an Oldsmobile plant and not
trimmed out in a Hurst or Cars and Concepts facility.  All were built in
Lansing.

My wife and I recently sold our black 1979 Hurst/Olds, which we had owned
since 1981.  It had just over 35,000 miles on it, when we sold it.  It had
very few options beyond the Hurst/Olds Performance Package, and therefore
did not have the power windows, door locks, seats, or antenna that are
found on many other '79s.  It also did not have either the T-Tops or
electric sun roof which were available.  It did have Cruise Control, Tilt
Steering Wheel, Air Conditioning, Tinted Windows, Clock, and an AM/FM
Stereo, all of which I believe were optional.  It did need some under hood
detailing attention and a new battery when we sold it, but otherwise was in
very good shape.  The selling price was $6,700.  I believe that of the
2,499 built, 1,300+ were black and 1,100+ were white, making the white one
you're asking about slightly rarer.  I hope you find this information
helpful.

Tom Stoner
Oldsmobile Club of America ª3943
Ann Arbor, MI
tgstoner@umich.edu

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 11:50:58 -0500 (EST)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Re[2]: What to do?

In a message dated 97-10-30 08:12:04 EST, you write:

<< >     That would be my choice.  In my experience with smog testing in
 >     California, the test facility workers don't check engine ID numbers
 >     unless you point out that it is an engine swap or unless the engine is

 >     obviously not original (455 in a VW, for example).

 In addition, the casting numbers could be removed as well, or at least
 covered with enough grease to make reading them impossible. >>

Dr Bob??  Grease??   Uuuugggghhhhhh!!!!!!!       ;-)...TIM

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 12:02:04 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: What to do?

padavano.joe wrote:

 Yep.  Just showing my ignorance about any Olds built after 1972.
(As a side note, I saw a 72 Supreme at the Templeton show with a decal
in the back window proclaiming:

"It's true Olds built cars after 1972, but who the h*ll cares?"

Couldn't have said it better myself :-)

Joe (self-proclaimed A-body snob) Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.co
66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

Joe,
I hope you realize wars have started over less inflamable statements
than that one.  I do agree the 64-72 cars are my favorites from almost
every manufacturer.  But, that is probably a function of my age (turned
16 in 1964) and the fact that new cars came out every year back then.
Today's kids don't realize how big a deal it used to be to catch the
first glimpse of the new models.  The only cars that looked basically
the same was VW.  Now the manufaturers stay with the same basic vehicles
for several years to spread retooling costs out.  (For example, the
Lincoln Mark VII had the same basic shape from 1984 to 1992.)  In the
sixties, any factory exec that tried that would have been on the
unemployment line in a hurry.  So, yes Joe, I like this era cars best
also.  But, I'm getting into my foxhole and pulling in the opening until
the shooting stops so stray bullets don't hit me, too.
Later......

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, Ky

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 12:01:08 -0500 (EST)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Re[2]: What to do?

In a message dated 97-10-30 08:12:04 EST, you write:

<< >     That would be my choice.  In my experience with smog testing in
 >     California, the test facility workers don't check engine ID numbers
 >     unless you point out that it is an engine swap or unless the engine is

 >     obviously not original (455 in a VW, for example).

 In addition, the casting numbers could be removed as well, or at least
 covered with enough grease to make reading them impossible. >>

Dr Bob??  Grease??   Uuuugggghhhhhh!!!!!!!       ;-)...TIM

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 13:24:16 -0800
From: Greg Pruett <grpruett@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: 200-4R depression

Ray wrote:
>
> Damn it.  I had my father call a friend of his who owns a transmission
> shop to get an estimate on a TH350 to TH200-4R conversion in my 87
> Cutlass.  The estimate is $1500-2000!  Can this be accurate.

Considering an `87 cutlass could originally be optioned with a 200-4R,
i'd say that price is a little high.  All the parts needed for the swap
can be found in a junkyard.
I hope the price includes rebuiding the transmission and beefing it up
while he's at it.

> What jacks up the cost is:
> ->I took the computer out of my car, so I would need a separate switch to
>   lock up the torque converter.

...So you just need a toggle switch on the dash that puts 12 volts to
the lockup torque converter.  You'll need to cut the plug that connects
to the transmission off of some car in the junkyard that had a 200-4R.
You turn on the lockup when you hit your desired cruise speed and turn
it off when you slow down to less than 35 mph.  Total cost in parts:
$15.

> ->Extra brackerty would need to be fabricated for the carb.

Once again since the 200-4R originally *came* in cars with Rocket V8s,
you should be able to find a correct throttle cable bracket that would
fit your 403.  A modified TH-350 kickdown cable brakcet might do the
trick too.

> ->Cut and balance driveshaft. <- Is this necessary for 350-2004R swap?!!

I'm not sure if that's neccesary.  The 200-4R is very close to the
legnth of a TH-350,(can't remember the exat legnths and I don't have the
info handy) so if you already have a TH-350 behind that 403, you
probably don't need any driveshaft modification.  Even if you did you
should be able to find the driveshaft out of a cutlass that originally
came with the 200-4R and use it. If for some reason you do have to
modify your driveshaft, it shouldn't cost much more than $150.


> I would not want to have any trans. work done by anyone but him, but if I
> spend that much money, I won't even be able to afford a shifter for the
> transmission!

As Dr. Bob said, your original shifter might work with a little
tinkering.

> My main question is, what can I do about not having the computer in my
> car.

Don't worry about it, you don't need the computer.  Lockup control is
the only tranny function handled by the computer.

>  What are the
> advantages/disadvantages of having a non-lockup or a lockup?

The lockup saves you some mileage by cutting down engine RPM by a few
hundered at cruise. It's supposed to be worth 1mpg or so.  It also helps
the tranny run a little cooler.

> Also, if anyone knows of someone who'll do the actual swap cheaper and is
> GOOD, please let me know.

You can do it yourself if you have some basic tools,a good jack, and an
extra weekend.  It would be an unbolt-rebolt procedure if you can swipe
all of the parts you need off of a junker.

Good luck.

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista Cruiser
`67 Cutlass Supreme
`80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 12:19:56 -0500
From: Andy Geeting <geetinag@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu>
Subject: Re: 200-4R depression

At 12:22 PM 10/29/97 -0700, you wrote:
>Damn it.  I had my father call a friend of his who owns a transmission
>shop to get an estimate on a TH350 to TH200-4R conversion in my 87
>Cutlass.  The estimate is $1500-2000!  Can this be accurate.
>
>What jacks up the cost is:
>->I took the computer out of my car, so I would need a separate switch to
>  lock up the torque converter.
>->Extra brackerty would need to be fabricated for the carb.
>->Cut and balance driveshaft. <- Is this necessary for 350-2004R swap?!!
>
>I would not want to have any trans. work done by anyone but him, but if I
>spend that much money, I won't even be able to afford a shifter for the
>transmission!
>
>My main question is, what can I do about not having the computer in my
>car.  (I won't replace, that's not an option)  What did they do prior to
>81 with AOD cars?  Was it a different trans.  If so, what?  Also, is it
>necessary to have a locking troque converter?  What are the
>advantages/disadvantages of having a non-lockup or a lockup?
>
>
>Also, if anyone knows of someone who'll do the actual swap cheaper and is
>GOOD, please let me know.  It can be in the Tucson, AZ area or
>Philadelphia area.
>Thankyou.  I won't kill myself yet.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Ray in the desert
>87 409 Cutlass
>
>
Ray, Have you seen those 4L80E (or maybe its a 4L60E can't remember of
hand) from Art Carr. Supposedly they're a Th400 with overdrive. Supposed to
be really strong and I think you probably could put one in your cutlass. I
know they put one in an '87 Grand National which originally had the
TH200-4R, They just had to pound on the trans tunnel a little bit. The
biggest drawback probably is the price, about $2500. Just thought I'd throw
that out to you.

Andy Geeting
'87 Cutlass Supreme
'88 Cutlass Supreme Classic Brougham
'74 Delta 88 convertible

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 12:42:50 -0500
From: "Ahrens, Paul" <pahrens@lucent.com>
Subject: Rattle in rear end of 84 Olds Cutlass Supreme

Would anyone have any ideas on what could be causing a loud ratlle and
squeak in the rear end when riding on a rough road in a 1984 Olds
Cutlass Supreme Brougham?  It is a V8, rear wheel drive car.  The
muffler has been checked.

Thanks for any ideas.


Paul R. Ahrens, Technical Manager
Lucent Technologies, MMIT
300 Baker Ave.
Concord, MA 01742
(508)287-2827  FAX: (508)287-2810
E-mail: pahrens@lucent.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 12:38:19 -0500 (EST)
From: CRuper1@aol.com
Subject: Synthetic oils, etc...  (was: Pistons and Lubricants)

To all:  I am involved in a motorcycle e-mail group for Kawasaki air cooled
motorcycles, and someone was discussing synthetic oils,pistons, etc.  This
article was posted, along with a response to it.  Notice, the article
references a question asked of Warren Johnson (Olds. fame)  I thought it
might be interesting for others (on this group) to see.  The message is about
motorcycles, but it applies to all engines.

In a message dated 97-10-29 01:46:28 EST, you write:

<<
 The latest (weekly) issue of  "National Dragster" (NHRA newspaper) has a
 question and answer  page that is hosted by Warren Johnson every month.
 Warren Johnson
 is the "Professor" of Pro Stock and as the ª1 Champion in this class several
 times and a schooled engineer, is the development ace in his class of
racing.
 His knowledge and experience is known "World Wide" in drag racing circles. I
 thought you might find this question and answer informative.


 Question to Warren Johnson.........

 Can the brand name "super lubricants" and oil additives that claim to reduce
 friction affect piston ring seal and cause a loss of cylinder pressure?

 Dave Watt
 Indianapolis, IN

 Warrens answer...........

 Most oil additives address two areas: They increase film strength to prevent
 metal to metal contact or they reduce friction. Neither of these
 characteristics should have an appreciable effect on ring seal in a racing
 engine.

 The quality of the cylinder seal is primarily determined by the ring's
 mechanical ability to conform to the irregularities of the cylinder wall. A
 cylinder bore in an engine does not stay perfectly round; it is subjected to
 thrust loads by the pistons skirts, inconsistent thermal expansion due to
 differences in the cross sectional thickness of the cylinder walls and
 coolant circulation, combustion heat, and mechanical stress. Compared to
 these factors, a lubricant's effect on ring seal is negligible.

 Synthetic lubricants typically have higher film strength and more
 loadcarrying capacity than petroleum based oil, which could possibly affect
 initial break in. However, advances in piston-ring manufacturing technology,
 such as improved lapping techniques and tighter tolerances on the rings'
 barrel shape and roundness, allow the rings to seal virtually the instant
the
 engine is fired for the first time. If you have any reservations about using
 synthetic oil in a new engine, just remember that the '97 Corvette is filled
 at the factory with a synthetic lubricant.

 The quality of blocks has also improved, allowing machinists to produce
 rounder, straighter cylinder walls. Consequently, the traditional "break in"
 period that was formerly required because of machining inaccuracies is no
 longer necessary.

 Warren
 >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>


 The point that Warren makes about the cylinder holes being "rounder and
 straighter" with todays new equipment sends a message to me that I've read
 about for years in other articles. The quality of this proceedure is
 "extremely" important when installing a bore kit, as the best bore and
honing
 comes from the "factory" that uses expensive boring macines, techniques and
 inspection methods to verify the quality. Finding aftermarket motorcycle
 machining shops "able" to duplicate this proceedure is very important.

 Todays tighter tollerances and smoother wall surfaces allow for a reduced
 break-in period.  My latest race motor that has 2 years of competition on it
 saw less than 100 miles in the street bike for break-in with 10w40
 non-synthetic (Mobil) in the crankcase.  Freshly filled with synthetic oil
it
 went into competition and has been tightly sealed for the past two seasons.
  I recommend that you break a new cycle motor in with non-synthetic oil for
 the first 500 miles for street use before switching to superior synthetic
 oils. It's cheaper cost and lubricity will aid in the sealing process and
 first oil change.

 Mark  >>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 09:38:45 PST
From: "John Stolarski" <oldscs350@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: What to do?

padavano.joe wrote:
>
> Yep.  Just showing my ignorance about any Olds built after 1972.
>(As a side note, I saw a 72 Supreme at the Templeton show with a decal
>in the back window proclaiming:
>
>"It's true Olds built cars after 1972, but who the h*ll cares?"
>
>Couldn't have said it better myself :-)
>
>Joe

Well...based upon the recent number of numerous inquires lately, I'd say
that there are a lot of people out there who care about late model
Olds...Now I'm not trying to start a war, just wanna make the point that
some of us do not have the resources to get a '70 W30, so we go for the
next best thing an 80's CS with a 350 or so in it....its not a classic,
but its keeping the tradition alive...I love the 60's-70's era muscle
car as much as the next guy, but ain't go the moola man...
Can't we all just...get along...

John
'86 Cutlass Supreme

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 09:44:33 PST
From: "John Stolarski" <oldscs350@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: What to do?

>> If I do put a Chevy engine into it what would I have to
>> change?  New motor mounts, transmission bell-housing or what?
>
>To say the least.  You'd probably need to also change all electricals
>(computer, etc.) to work with the Chevy motor.  Possibly exhaust system
>back to the cat, too, I dunno about this.


To put in a Ch*vy, you'll need to get a computer system from a Monte
Carlo, Redo the motor mounts, put on a completely new exhaust system and
find a nice 350 (LT-1) package....you can get a brand new one from GM w/
around 300-350 hp, its a complete long block...everything but tranny and
carb. for around $2000 or so...GM doesn't do new Olds performance
engines...I checked, it would make life soooo much easier...The swap is
doable, and its easier to find aftermarket parts but parts of the fun of
an Olds is the challenge of keeping it Olds...its a pain, but the torque
from an Olds is worth it...

John
'86 Cutlass Supreme

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 11:49:14 -0600 (CST)
From: Thomas G Allen <mutga1@uxa.ecn.bgu.edu>
Subject: New Olds fan needs help

I just bought a 1985 Cutlass Supreme dirt cheap, and I need help deciding
what to do with it.  Although I've always admired Oldsmobiles, this is the
first one I've bought with the idea of actually fixing up, so I don't know
too much about the technical aspects of these cars.

Although the car is in good shape, it needs a few odds and ends (trim,
emblems, etc.).  Most of this stuff I can find in the junkyard in good
shape, but some things, like weatherstripping, I'd prefer to buy new.
Does anyone know of a supplier that deals specifically in aftermarket
parts for this style of car?

The car currently has the original 3.8 A engine under the hood.  If this
engine lasts until I finish college in the spring of 1999, I'd like to
replace it with a V8.  In my area, we don't have any emissions
testing, so I would like to make the conversion to a non-emission
engine.Someone told me that I can use the accessories from
any '77 to '81 V8-powered Cutlass to do this.  A friend recently told me I
could have anything I wanted from his '78 for free.  I don't really want
the engine (a 260), but would the accessories work on a 350 or a 403?

I also have some questions regarding the 403 engine.  What cars are they
common in?  Is there any year/model of this engine that is better than
another?  Finally, are there any drawbacks to rebuilding and hopping up
this engine?

Sorry for being so long winded, but I really am a novice when it comes to
Oldsmobiles.  Any information at all would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Tom

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 09:53:48 -0800
From: Erik Nowacki <enowacki@titan.com>
Subject: Re: Cutlass Seats

>In my '72 Cutlass, for my front seat I have the long, one piece bench
>seat.

I had the same setup in my previous VC.  The bench is handy if you want to
carry 3 people up front, but it is quite uncomfortable for longer trips and
it doesn't offer any lateral support for those tight corners.......
>
>What I would like to know is if their is any way I could take that out
>and in place put two bucket seats in?  And what else would I have to
>change to put those in?  Would I have to put in a console or anything
>like that? And do they make kits which help you swamp in different kinds
>of seats?

I swaped the bench for Mercedes buckets and was really happy with it.  I
got the seats from my local boneyard for $30 a piece and they were perfect.
 It required some gentle massageing  of the driveshaft hump with a
sledgehammer and some new holes drilled, it took me a couple of hours to
complete.

I was so happy with the swap that I bought another set of Mercedes buckets
for my current VC.  I'll probably install them sometime next month.

If you're going to install Olds buckets, you may have to weld or otherwise
install brackets on the driveshaft hump side of the seats.

>Erik B.

Hey, you spell your name the right way and you own an Olds, you're all
right in my book.


Erik Nowacki
San Diego
72 Vista Cruiser

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 12:14:03 -0600
From: JR <joertexas@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Cutlass Seats

Erik Badzinski wrote:
>
> Hello again,
>
> In my '72 Cutlass, for my front seat I have the long, one piece bench
> seat.
>
> What I would like to know is if their is any way I could take that out
> and in place put two bucket seats in?  And what else would I have to
> change to put those in?  Would I have to put in a console or anything
> like that? And do they make kits which help you swamp in different kinds
> of seats?

Year One has a kit consisting of two mounting rails for the inner sides
of the bucket seats. You have to either bolt or weld them to the floor.
They worked just fine for me...

JR
72 Cutlass S

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 13:29:04 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: New Olds fan needs help

Thomas G Allen wrote:
>
> could have anything I wanted from his '78 for free.  I don't really want
> the engine (a 260), but would the accessories work on a 350 or a 403?

Yes, I just read a post on the list about an hour ago that stated that all
accessory brackets work on ALL Oldsmobile V8's.  So, for sure, any bracket
you find on a small block V8 (260, 307, 350, 403) will work on another
small block...and supposedly a big block (400, 425, 455, et al).  I was
thinking of hopping up my Cutlass after school, too (graduation date:
Spring 2000...yep, I'm a young'un).  However, I've decided to keep it
stock, for a number of reasons.  A) It runs beautifully!  I wouldn't swap a
350 in if I needed to pay any real amount of money.  I think the 307 is
perfectly matched to the car (although I don't know how they got away with
putting 231's in :-) and the transmission (200) even works perfectly.  B) A
numbers-matching car will hold its value better (although I never intend to
sell mine; hmm...) and will score better in a car show.  C) There is too
much room for error.  An auto manufacturer (namely, Oldsmobile) has
resources (money) that individuals just don't have.  They can afford to
spend months testing various combinations of engines, transmissions, etc.
True, they must hold a compromise between performance and cost, but I
believe that, for the most part, it works well.  If I want to go fast, I'll
get a fast car (442, Camaro, Trans-Am, etc.); I won't spend lots of money
ripping out all the components that came on the car and that still work
fine.  In my opinion, if you do that, you might as well part-out the car.

Well, that's my English essay for this week...
_______________________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
OCA ª028044

http://www.erols.com/adcockjk
1984 Cutlass Supreme Calais
1992 Ford Crown Victoria LX
1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 13:31:36 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Rattle in rear end of 84 Olds Cutlass Supreme

Ahrens, Paul wrote:
>
> Would anyone have any ideas on what could be causing a loud ratlle and
> squeak in the rear end when riding on a rough road in a 1984 Olds
> Cutlass Supreme Brougham?  It is a V8, rear wheel drive car.  The
> muffler has been checked.

I'd first check all the suspension pieces.  Maybe one of the bushings is
gone and you have metal-to-metal contact.  Also, maybe your gas tank is
loose and is banging around??  Hope this helps...
_______________________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
OCA ª028044

http://www.erols.com/adcockjk
1984 Cutlass Supreme Calais
1992 Ford Crown Victoria LX
1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 14:29:30 -0500 (EST)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Cutlass Seats

In a message dated 97-10-30 13:49:42 EST, you write:

<< > What I would like to know is if their is any way I could take that out
 > and in place put two bucket seats in?  And what else would I have to
 > change to put those in?  Would I have to put in a console or anything
 > like that? And do they make kits which help you swamp in different kinds
 > of seats?

 Year One has a kit consisting of two mounting rails for the inner sides
 of the bucket seats. You have to either bolt or weld them to the floor.
 They worked just fine for me...

 JR
 72 Cutlass S >>

I recall putting buckets in a Cutlass one time and the carpet had to be
changed
because there was a difference between the bucket seat/ bench seat carpet.
the bench seat carpet didnt look right over the hump...TIM

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 14:35:51 -0500 (EST)
From: Gary Harrod <gharrod@alpha.wcoil.com>
Subject: F/S in local paper

I seen this in a local flyer that comes around every week. I know nothing
about the car or the people selling it so if anyone is interested call
them. 1956 Oldsmobile- runs good, in good shape. Very restorable, 4 dr, 88
$1,100. call 937-465-4278. Thats how it was writen in the paper. Its a
central Ohio phone number

Gary Harrod
gharrod@alpha.wcoil.com
N.W.Ohio, in the U.S.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 11:11:39 -0700
From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Subject: Re: '66 Toro standard or deluxe?

Minor correction on the shipping prices to Europe. I sent my Dad's car
there from San Francisco for about $1,400, insurance included.

The downside was when my uncle got the car and drove it into Norway the
import taxes were roughly four times the US value of the car. This was an
english ford with a 12 cylinder motor (XJS) so it was worth it to him, but
the message is that their government doesn't want people to drive cars that
nice and will tax the heck out of those who import them.

Anyway it's not too expensive to ship a car that far, I thought. But boy
those taxes sure surprised me. Pow, glad I live in 'merica.

cf

>About the prices you mentioned: it's about 4K to ship
>and import a car to Europe (especially taxes are very
>high on import), so paying anything less than 6K for
>a US car over here is more or less impossible
>(although only 1 of the previous owners has to import
>that car of course...).

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 14:46:05 -0500 (EST)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rattle in rear end of 84 Olds Cutlass Supreme

In a message dated 97-10-30 14:16:38 EST, you write:

<< >
 > Would anyone have any ideas on what could be causing a loud ratlle and
 > squeak in the rear end when riding on a rough road in a 1984 Olds
 > Cutlass Supreme Brougham?  It is a V8, rear wheel drive car.  The
 > muffler has been checked.

 I'd first check all the suspension pieces.  Maybe one of the bushings is
 gone and you have metal-to-metal contact.  Also, maybe your gas tank is
 loose and is banging around??  Hope this helps... >>


Is there anything loose and jumping around in the trunk, more specifically
in the spare tire well?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 13:48:22 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Subject: Re: 200-4R depression

> >My main question is, what can I do about not having the computer in my
> >car.  (I won't replace, that's not an option)  What did they do prior to
> >81 with AOD cars?  Was it a different trans.  If so, what?  Also, is it
>
> I don't think there were any RWD AOD GM cars before computers.

Recall that in those days, Canada was a bit backwards emissions-wise.  C-3
didn't arrive here until 1986, and OD cars had a non-computerized way of
controlling the TCC.  The lock-up feature on my '83 Delta 88 isn't
functioning; I have checked the brake pedal switch on Steve Ochs'
recommendation, and the vacuum switch at the rear of the intake manifold,
but both appear to be fine.  I don't have a service manual for this car,
so don't know where to proceed.  This particular 200-4R has a single wire
connection.  BTW, I think '81 was the first year 4 speed automatic
overdrive transmissions were offered.

Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 16:31:27 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Cutlass Seats

On Thu, 30 Oct 1997 Cnvrtbl442@aol.com wrote:
> I recall putting buckets in a Cutlass one time and the carpet had to be
> changed
> because there was a difference between the bucket seat/ bench seat carpet.
> the bench seat carpet didnt look right over the hump...TIM

Yes, I believe this is true. While aftermarket carpet kits are
indifferent to the bucket vs. bench setup, it seems that the factory
used different carpet sets depending on the seat style ordered. My
bench-seat Cutlass has no carpet whatsoever under the seat itself.
Saved them about 8"x 72" of carpeting, and I'm sure some bright
accountant type calculated that on a few million cars they would save
some $$$ by doing this!

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 13:46:05 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Rattle in rear end of 84 Olds Cutlass Supreme

Ahrens, Paul wrote:
>
> Would anyone have any ideas on what could be causing a loud ratlle and
> squeak in the rear end when riding on a rough road in a 1984 Olds
> Cutlass Supreme Brougham?  It is a V8, rear wheel drive car.  The
> muffler has been checked.
>

Look around the rear wheel well openings inside the trunk; where they
meet the raised part of the floor (below the rear deck).  Look for any
cracks/corrosion in those seams.  I've seen this cause a nasty squeak,
and I've seen it on several cars, too...

Hope that helps a bit...

Charley Buehner

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 15:39:29 -0500
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: 1970 Wiring Diagram

I have a wiring diagram (in color) for the 1970 A body on my WEB site.
This may help someone fix those electric problems that we all seem to
have ever now and then.


http://home1.gte.net/betzel/Wireing2.jpg


Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the....Past

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 17:03:37 -0500
From: "Brian Lorway" <blorway@rust.net>
Subject: Re: When was your W-30 built ?

February, fourth week, 1970 (02D)

Regards,
Brian

1970 4-4-2 W-30, 4-Speed
1971 4-4-2 W-30, Convertible
OCA ª 028157

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 15:42:37 -0700
From: "Anthony Marstall" <anthony.marstall@mailcity.com>
Subject: Re: Split Fire

>>Have any of you all tried those "splitfire" spark plugs (or any other
>>brand that have the same claim) that supposedly increase horsepower???
>>'Not worth the extra money, right?
>
I tried them in an '83 Cutlass Supreme and they did exactly what they claimed 
to

do--increase horsepower, but not enough to notice.




Get your free and private web-based e-mail from our new partner at
http://www.mailexcite.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 18:48:20 -0800
From: "David, Terri and Rob" <hoagie@emeraldis.com>
Subject: Re: Holley Carb.

Beverley Horn wrote:
>
> I have the chance of purchasing a 25yr.old Holley 650 Double Pumper Carb.
> (4bbl). The guy wants $30 for it but it needs a Carb rebulid kit. Should I
> buy it and do the rebulid? Would it give me good performance on a Rocket
> 350? Is this Carb worth buying? Would it fit the Rocket 350?
>
> Thanks,
> Shayne Horn
>  1970 Rallye 350 (restoring)
> 1985 442


shayne you need to check with a local parts supplier that has some
experience with holley's and see if thay still sell parts for this
carb.....at the car lot...we had a 1967 factory carb off a ford product
and the parts for this carb are unobtainable.......so you might want to
wtach out for this problem...but holley's on oldsmobiles are GREAT..the
greatly enhance the performance of the secondary kick down reation
time...Hoagie

"drop the top...and rattle the pipes!!!"

1970 cutlass SX convertible
1971 442 W-30 convertible
1971 442 holiday coupe

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª929
********************************
