
oldsmobile-digest       Monday, December 1 1997       Volume 01 : Number 982



Re: Compression
Re: [Fwd: Convertible Top Replacement]
Xmas
'67 Cutlass's for sale
answ er
Beware of Brother's
Re: UNBOUNCE:??
RE: list tone
Re: Xmas
Re: Supremes vs Salons
Re: Xmas
carpet
Manuals
Re: Xmas
Re: dead battery in calais
Re: Air cleaner woes
Re: UNBOUNCE:??
Re: carpet
Parts For Sale
Re: "GM BLOOD"
RE: dead battery in calais
Re: Air cleaner woes
Re: dead battery in calais
Re: Beware of Brother's
Re: ADMIN-Small suggestion-No flack please
re: compression
Help!!!  I can't keep up!
Fuel Gauge?
Re: "GM BLOOD"
Re: dead battery in calais
Re: dead battery in calais
cross-ref
Re: "GM BLOOD"
Questions...Rust, chrome and engines
Re: "GM BLOOD"
Re: carpet
Re: Fuel Gauge?
need xpert valve help
motors available
Re: Fuel Gauge?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 14:17:45 -0500 (EST)
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: Compression

In a message dated 97-12-01 02:00:33 EST, you write:

<< they don't necessarily flow as well as your #7a heads, which came through
 with the big-block sized exhaust valves (1.62", vs. 1.50" of other 350
 heads, and hardened seats to boot!). With the higher compression and (I'm
 assuming) hotter cam, you can also move up to the 2.00" intake valve at this
 time. >>
 
um, this is what i have in my '72 350.  the #7 heads with factory size
valves.  these heads really do seem to flow very well.  i shaved off the egr
bumps in all the exhaust ports, and evened up all the ports, and slightly
polished up the walls on the exhaust side.  they run great.  i also am
running 9.0:1 compression in this engine.  to get that amount of compression,
i bought pistons for a '69 (i think) 2bbl 350.  guess what?  that was this
engines factory ratio!  i would definately not run anything higher than 9:1
as it wants to detonate on anything other than amoco ultimate. just thought
id blab a little...  :-)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 12:36:14 -0700
From: Tim Rudolph <trudolph@frii.com>
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Convertible Top Replacement]

At 01:54 AM 12/1/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Curtis Ratica wrote:
>> 
>> Robert J. Lavey wrote:
>> >
>> > Hi Curtis,
>> >
>> > Thanks for the reply.  Was the $600-$700 with you supplying the parts?
>> >
>> 
>> No, that was complete, labor and parts...
>
>For that kind of money I wouldn't even attempt to put it on myself.  I
>would say the parts alone would be $300-400 alone.

Well, having just done an install myself I would have to say that my guess
as to why it costs $300-400 to install it would be the amount of time it
takes.  The parts for my install totalled $350.  Which included top,
cables, pads, tack strips.

Tim Rudolph
trudolph@frii.com
'69 442 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 11:54:04 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Xmas

     Dear Santa, all I want for Xmas is an Olds Email list without:
1) my xxxx is faster than your xxxx whining
2) personal attacks
3) personal business traffic (not counting 'for sale' lists)
4) foul language (even with * in the spelling)
5) days long debates on how to pronounce 4-4-2

     Let's use the list for what it was intended: information sharing
about Oldsmobiles! I've owned Oldsmobiles since '79 and I've been
hoping for years that all the ins and outs of "Rocket Science" would
get documented somehow.....what a great start in the FAQ! A few years
ago this was unthinkable. Let's keep the advice and troubleshooting
sessions going....I know I've benefitted already :) 

My .02

===
John Pajak                            JSPajak@rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland  HTTP://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

65 Delta 88 2dr    70 Cutlass S 2dr       72 Cutlass conv   
66 Toronado deluxe 70 Cutlass S W31       72 Delta 88 conv
69 Cutlass S 2dr   70 442 W30 conv        72 442 W30 conv 
70 Cutlass S 2dr   71 Cutlass Supreme 2dr 86 Cutlass Supreme
+ 4 parts cars, some F&rds and a Ch$vy



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 14:04:32 -0600 (CST)
From: Donald B Cart <dcart@micro.ti.com>
Subject: '67 Cutlass's for sale

 A friend has some cars for sale. He's not on the list, so
respond directly to him. He also has pics available if interested.

  1967 Cutlass Supreme Holiday Hardtop - 2dr, 330 High Comp. 4 bbl,
  Automatic with Buckets/Console.  55,000 original mis.  Maroon with black
  interior and black vinyl top.  PS & PB, SS1s.  New Everything!  Car needs
  minor detailing to make Show Winner!  $6,500 obo. Call days:
  973-305-5140, nights: 908-276-3274.  Pictures available. Email:
  guy_graziano@berlex.com  Thanks! - Guy (NJ)
  
  1967 Olds Cutlass Convertible - 330 2 bbl, Auto, PB & PS, White with Red
  Sport interior and Black Top.  New Boot.  SS1s,  Perfect Dash,  75,000
  original miles - car originally from Texas.  Show Quality!  $7,750 obo.
  Call days: 973-305-5140, nights: 908-276-3274.  Pictures available.
  Email: guy_graziano@berlex.com  Thanks! - Guy (NJ)
  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 15:06:15 -0500 (EST)
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: answ er

  you can use the cutlass a frames both upper and lower....+
   
  with the monte carlo spindles...  olds guy ga...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 13:08:43 -0700
From: Tim Rudolph <trudolph@frii.com>
Subject: Beware of Brother's

Hello everyone,
  I'd just like to take this time to warn everyone to steer clear of
Brother's for Olds parts.  I ordered some simple parts from them (heater
hose inlet, and thermostat housing) on October 19th.  The next day I
ordered my Convertible top from Year One.  I received the Year One stuff
within a week and a half and some of that stuff was on backorder.  A few
days later the backordered stuff arrived.  So I started to wonder about
Brother's since I had sent my order to them in a day earlier then the Year
One stuff.  I e-mailed them expressing my displeasure and explaining how I
had ordered parts from other suppliers and received them and I got "I guess
we'll send your refund right away" as a response.  I then waited a few days
and wrote them another e-mail asking for a status check on whether they
were sending the parts or the refund.  They responded rudely saying "Have
you ever heard the saying 'Prices and availability may change with the
customer's attitude'".  They obviously haven't heard the saying "The
customer is always right."  At any rate,  This was on November 14th that
they told me my refund was on it's way and here it is, December 1st, and
still absolutely nothing from them.  So as far as I'm considered they stole
my money.  Luckily I was smart enough to do a small order first to test
them out.  I should've listened to someone before on the list who
compalined about their service but I was stupid not to.  I reccommend that
people here steer clear of Brother's though.  I've had great experiences
with Year One, and USA Parts Supply as well as a couple of individuals (Jim
Chermack and Robert Schinkel) so I would suggest going one of those routes.
 Just wanted to let everyone know so that they wouldn't be ripped off in
the future.

Tim Rudolph
trudolph@frii.com
'69 442 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 12:21:49 -0700
From: "Anthony Marstall" <anthony.marstall@mailcity.com>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE:??

***Dumb Question Of The Day***



1. What does UNBOUNCE mean?



Anthony Marstall

'87 Trofeo





Get your free and private web-based e-mail from our new partner at http://www.mailexcite.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 08:45:04 -0700
From: Tom Starkey <tstarkey@bi.com>
Subject: RE: list tone

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- ----------
From: 	Chris Brown Witt[SMTP:wittchri@pilot.msu.edu]
Subject: 	list tone


faster it feels like you are going [the go-kart phenomenon], and loud is =
NOT
equal to fast.
  Oh, it would also be a good idea to post on a web page a copy of any =
actual
time slips obtained at the real track, just in case there's any doubt.

Oops! First thing I did was add headers! Promptly got stopped for =
speeding the next week.  Funny part of it is, as it is now, this car =
can't get out of it's own way! I think the cop may have been a OLDS fan =
also since he didn't give me a ticket. As for the lower equals faster =
feel, I'll drop a few pounds of air pressure in the tires and see if it =
helps.=20

Tom S.
'68 Cutlass Supreme - Loud and slow, but no smoke!
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 16:00:25 -0500
From: Olds mobile <dmtaylor@tiac.net>
Subject: Re: Xmas

John Pajak wrote:

>      Dear Santa, all I want for Xmas is an Olds Email list without:
> 1) my xxxx is faster than your xxxx whining
> 2) personal attacks
> 3) personal business traffic (not counting 'for sale' lists)
> 4) foul language (even with * in the spelling)
> 5) days long debates on how to pronounce 4-4-2
>
>   Maybe you should join the Barney List!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 14:57:10 -0600
From: "Green, Andrew" <acg@datalogics.com>
Subject: Re: Supremes vs Salons

> for example, was a complete ralley gauge package available 
> in the Supremes?

For 1976? Yes; I owned one. The left-hand pod held the speedometer
as usual; the right-hand one, instead of a huge fuel gauge, had three
smaller ones: Fuel, Temp and Oil Pressure. I took mine out one day
and painted the needles with fluorescent-orange enamel, a major
improvement over the old white-pointers-on-a-white-scale.

Unfortunately there was no tach there. I went to Radio Shack (or
maybe it was J.C. Whitney) and got a green digital panel-mount
tach/clock unit which installed perfectly in the front edge of
the console tray, where it curves up towards the roll-top storage
compartment. As a bonus, it even had a lights-on alarm.

The quickest way to tell at a glance from outside whether a Cutlass
from (I think) '73-'77 has the gauge package is to look for the
little Seat Belt reminder lamp housing installed on the _top_ of the
dashboard, front and center, plainly visible from outside. The big
basic fuel gauge had the Seat Belt lamp built in, but the full gauge
package did not, requiring this separate lamp to be stuck on top.
- --
Andrew C. Green             (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.            email: acg@datalogics.com
101 N. Wacker, Ste. 1800    http://www.datalogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301     Fax: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 15:02:25 -0600
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: Xmas

- -----Original Message-----
From: John Pajak <jspajak@rocketmail.com>

>     Dear Santa, all I want for Xmas is an Olds Email list without:
>1) my xxxx is faster than your xxxx whining
>2) personal attacks
>3) personal business traffic (not counting 'for sale' lists)
>4) foul language (even with * in the spelling)
>5) days long debates on how to pronounce 4-4-2
>
Me to.

Daren 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 14:00:35 -0700
From: Dustin Cross <livnrt@mssl.uswest.net>
Subject: carpet

where is the best place to get good carpet for the best price?

Dustin

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 13:00:49 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Manuals

- ---Anthony Marstall <anthony.marstall@mailcity.com> wrote:
I need a Body Manual for an '87 Trofeo, but GM's manual company
doesn't sell it. I know it exists because it's referred to in the
Service Manual. 

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 	2 sources I've had luck with recently for Service Manuals (and other
literature) are:

1) We Got Your Book    914-624-8650

2) Auto Literature Shoppe 1-800-526-7099 

Usual disclaimers apply...blah blah blah...yada yada yada

===
John Pajak                            JSPajak@rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland  HTTP://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

65 Delta 88 2dr    70 Cutlass S 2dr       72 Cutlass conv   
66 Toronado deluxe 70 Cutlass S W31       72 Delta 88 conv
69 Cutlass S 2dr   70 442 W30 conv        72 442 W30 conv 
70 Cutlass S 2dr   71 Cutlass Supreme 2dr 86 Cutlass Supreme




_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 13:11:32 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: Xmas

- ---Olds mobile <dmtaylor@tiac.net> wrote:
   Maybe you should join the Barney List!

See what I mean! No Olds content, personal attack, etc.
Olds content: I hope the poster's good taste in automobiles rubs off
on him :)

===
John Pajak                            JSPajak@rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland  HTTP://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

65 Delta 88 2dr    70 Cutlass S 2dr       72 Cutlass conv   
66 Toronado deluxe 70 Cutlass S W31       72 Delta 88 conv
69 Cutlass S 2dr   70 442 W30 conv        72 442 W30 conv 
70 Cutlass S 2dr   71 Cutlass Supreme 2dr 86 Cutlass Supreme
  

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 15:15:02 -0600
From: "Green, Andrew" <acg@datalogics.com>
Subject: Re: dead battery in calais

> I have an 89 calais with the q4 in it and an alarm and 
> the battery constantly dies.

Is the alarm significant here? i.e. If you leave the alarm off,
does the battery still go dead?

> The last [battery] put in lasted for about a week and died.

Jeez, that's one major drain. Do you have a cigar lighter stuck in,
maybe? Lights under the hood or trunk lid not turning off? Glove box 
light? You can suspect any circuit that's live with the car off, such as

clock, courtesy lights, radio memory, ECM, horn... Well, the ECM is
probably not the problem, but it might be interesting to pull the
courtesy light fuse for a while and see if the drain goes away.
If not, you'll have to resort to more selective testing, such as
checking each circuit for continuity to ground when all devices 
on it are supposed to be Off.

> Here's one person that doesn't own a Cutlass, for the person that
asked

Well, I  *cough*  don't have one at the moment either. After owning two
in succession, for over ten years, I figured it was... um... time to 
give someone else a chance.  :-)
- --
Andrew C. Green             (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.            email: acg@datalogics.com
101 N. Wacker, Ste. 1800    http://www.datalogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301     Fax: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 17:39:59 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Air cleaner woes

On Mon, 1 Dec 1997, Brent Pinkstaff wrote:
> 2) The decal was too big. Not a lot, but enough. Did Oldsmobile make a 
> 4bbl air cleaner that would have been slightly (read 3/8") smaller in 
> the area that the deal goes? 
> 
> The engine is a 1970. The intake is a 1971. The air cleaner fits OK and 
> even lines up with the steel pre-heat tube. 
> Is this the wrong air cleaner or is Fusick's decal to big?? 

I wonder if maybe you have an air cleaner lid from a 2-bbl motor, or from 
another model year? 

I know the decal I got from Fusick's for the '68 fit perfectly. But the 
4-bbl decal is bigger than the 2-bbl one in the area where the decal fits 
if memory serves. All of that is slightly irrelevant since the style of 
decal changed for '70, but I wonder if that might not be the problem. 

Mark Cornea is on the list so I'm sure he can offer some insight. I can't 
imagine the decal itself is the wrong size so my suspicions are with the 
lid. 

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 17:42:40 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE:??

On Mon, 1 Dec 1997, Anthony Marstall wrote:

> ***Dumb Question Of The Day***
> 
> 1. What does UNBOUNCE mean?

Not a dumb question. Since the list went closed (i.e. only members can 
make posts to the list) if someone from outside tries to send a message 
here, it comes to me with a "BOUNCE" header on it. Same if someone's 
email address changes from day to day and they try to post from a 
slightly different address than what they subscribed with. I forward 
those messages to the list with the "UNBOUNCE" tag.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 16:39:09 -0500
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: carpet

At 02:00 PM 12/1/97 -0700, you wrote:
Dustin

        Specialty Olds has been the best for us. It runs about $95.00 and is
the best I've found. I falls right in and the colors are correct.

Jim Chermack


>where is the best place to get good carpet for the best price?
>
>Dustin
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 16:52:30 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Parts For Sale

Some parts have been just thrown into any year cause they are basically
universal between 68 - 72 and don't need to be entered into each column…
Such as sway bars 


PLEASE   E - me direct and
I'll get back to you A.S.A.P

Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com

1968

Wheel well chrome			$20.00 each.
Front side markers			$15.00 each
Rear side markers			$15.00 each
Black dash pad  Mint			$90.00
Hood Hinges				$35.00
400 engine  (out of 68 442  )		$350.00
Th400 OG				$100.00
442 Air cleaner				$75.00
3 speed console (standard shift)		$275.00
C casting heads	 (complete)		$175.00
Cutlass Grill 				$95.00
Cutlass Convertible Trunk lid Mint	$250.00
Cutlass trunk lid ( southern)		$150.00
Headlight Frames (plastic)		$250.00

1969

442 Grills exc.				$190.00
SSI's   code JK 14x6 set of 4		$100.00
Nos reverse light lens (in box)		$15.00
Power antenna & switch 		$60.00
Wiper switch 				$40.00
Radio plate (uncut)			$20.00
Power Top switch & wiring		$45.00
Rear defroster Switch & wiring		$25.00
Plastic headlight frames 			$75.00
Cutlass Conv. Trunk lid (Southern)	$150.00
Dash pad (gold)				$90.00

1970

Tail light lens (Cutlass)			$10.00 each
Tail light lens (Supreme)			$12.00 each
Nos fender script "Cutlass"		$30.00 each
Nos Horn Contact (sport wheel)		$20.00 each
Nos 442 emblem sets (full)		$225.00 
F85 fender script 			$30.00 pr.
Rear side marker lights			$15.00 each
Front side marker lights			$20.00 each
Conv. Pump, Cyl.,and lines		$150.00
Nos Boxed lower Control Arms		$225.00
Rear Spoiler (original)			$275.00
Rear Sway Bar				$60.00
1" 1/8 front sway bar (heavy duty)	$60.00 

1971 & 1972

Nos headlight frames(plastic)		$75.00 pr.
Front bumper directional lens		$10.00 ea.
Tail light lens				$10.00 ea.
Power bench seat 			$100.00
Trunk lid script "O-L-D-S-M-O-B-I-L-E"	$30.00
Dash pad (olive)				$75.00
Dash pad ( blue)				$75.00
Dash pad (black)			$75.00
442 Grills good condition (with emblems)	$200.00
4 Speed console (VGC.includes key)	$200.00
Auto Console (black)			$90.00
Auto Console (Tan)			$90.00
Auto Console (Brown)			$90.00
Auto Console (Green)			$90.00

Literature

1961 F - 85 Service Manual		$40
1970 Sales Booklet 			$20
1973 Sales Booklet			$20
1974 Sales Booklet			$20
1974 Sales Booklet (Omega)		$20

To my best of knowledge each of these parts are in Good condition and
that's why I advertise them for sale.  Some have been repaired such as
grills,  But I take much pride in my repair work and hope you will be
satisfied with my efforts.

If there is something you are searching for and it is not on the list
please feel free to ask I am more then happy to hunt for parts.  

Shipping is extra 

Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com
905-357-4454

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 16:53:43 -0500
From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Subject: Re: "GM BLOOD"

Trevor Lee wrote:
> 
> > what's getting in the way.  Thanks for the tips, but the only thing I'd
> > take a BFH to is a Chevrolet.  Cheers.
> 
>         I find it very interesting that so many guys on the list, with such
> consistency, are into "bashing" Chevys (some more literally than others as this
> quote from Jason Adcock shows =B)  Especially considering that the cars which
> you guys are talking about are so closely related to 'em.  I could understand
> bashing Ford and Chrysler, who, IMHO both made many fine musclecars as well,
> several of which I would be proud to own, but to bash other GMs??  

Trevor you bring up an excellent point, one I have been wondering about
since I joined this list back in May of 1995. I too wonder why there is
so much Chevy bashing here as you are correct in that the divisions
share parts that are interchangable. I don't know about you but I get a
kick out of it myself. I am in the process of building an 80 Olds drag
car for next racing season and haven't started the motor yet. Was going
to go the 455 route, but a new crate LS1 is much more tempting and I
would love the look on the Olds elite faces when I pop the hood. In fact
I can't see why I shouldn't go with the LS1. It is all aluminum and
light compared to the iron 455. F-bodies are running low 13's in stock
form with this motor...in a lightened G-body whis would hit high 12's
with ease just bolting it in. LS1 also has 6 bolt main caps for extra
piece of mind :-) For the price of a "nice" 455 build up I can get a new
LS1. Oh well I haven't even got the suspension done yet, let alone
worrying about the motor.

Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com) Akron, OH
Quality Engineer - TRW Automotive Group, Inc.
95 Impala SS
80 Olds 442 W-30
75 Hurst/Olds W-25

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 14:56:27 -0700
From: Tom Starkey <tstarkey@bi.com>
Subject: RE: dead battery in calais

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BCFE69.50B52040
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable


Hi Shaun:

I've never tried this personally, but it may help.  A battery drain that =
quickly is drawing a considerable amount of current. If you  put an Amp =
meter between the positive battery post and the positive cable, it =
should show the amount of current being drawn.  Systematically =
disconnect suspected circuits, like your alarm. One way of disconnecting =
each circuit, one by one, may be to remove the fuse.  If the drain =
suddenly reduces, you've found your trouble circuit. Then, as others =
have suggested, look for a short to ground. Hope this helps.

Tom S.
'68 Cutlass Supreme
- ----------
From: 	Shaun Miller[SMTP:smille02@astro.ocis.temple.edu]
Subject: 	dead battery in calais

Hey all happy turkey day!!

    My question is:  I have an 89 calais with=20
the q4 in it and an alarm and the battery constantly dies.  i have put 2 =

new batteries in it so far (not cheap ones either, the ones used in=20
cadillacs).  THe last one put in lasted for about a week and died.  I=20
know the alarm dosent suck that much juice.  has anyone else had a=20
similar problem.  Lets make this a simple solution, so cadillac roadside =

assistance dosent experience anymore "missing" batteries.


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 17:02:15 -0500
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Air cleaner woes

At 05:39 PM 12/1/97 -0400, you wrote:
Greg

        It could have been too big if it's a Jim Osborn decal. I have not
had alot of luck with them. I know he has the right air cleaner assm. I sold
it to him. The lids are the same for 4 bbl cars from 68-7?.

Jim Chermack


>I wonder if maybe you have an air cleaner lid from a 2-bbl motor, or from 
>another model year? 
>
>I know the decal I got from Fusick's for the '68 fit perfectly. But the 
>4-bbl decal is bigger than the 2-bbl one in the area where the decal fits 
>if memory serves. All of that is slightly irrelevant since the style of 
>decal changed for '70, but I wonder if that might not be the problem. 
>
>Mark Cornea is on the list so I'm sure he can offer some insight. I can't 
>imagine the decal itself is the wrong size so my suspicions are with the 
>lid. 
>
>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 17:04:13 -0500
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: dead battery in calais

At 03:15 PM 12/1/97 -0600, you wrote:
        Check your alternator. It sounds like it's not working or the
internal regulator is bad and your running the car off the battery until it
dies. Trust me it can happen.

Jim Chermack



>> I have an 89 calais with the q4 in it and an alarm and 
>> the battery constantly dies.
>
>Is the alarm significant here? i.e. If you leave the alarm off,
>does the battery still go dead?
>
>> The last [battery] put in lasted for about a week and died.
>
>Jeez, that's one major drain. Do you have a cigar lighter stuck in,
>maybe? Lights under the hood or trunk lid not turning off? Glove box 
>light? You can suspect any circuit that's live with the car off, such as
>
>clock, courtesy lights, radio memory, ECM, horn... Well, the ECM is
>probably not the problem, but it might be interesting to pull the
>courtesy light fuse for a while and see if the drain goes away.
>If not, you'll have to resort to more selective testing, such as
>checking each circuit for continuity to ground when all devices 
>on it are supposed to be Off.
>
>> Here's one person that doesn't own a Cutlass, for the person that
>asked
>
>Well, I  *cough*  don't have one at the moment either. After owning two
>in succession, for over ten years, I figured it was... um... time to 
>give someone else a chance.  :-)
>--
>Andrew C. Green             (312) 853-8331
>Datalogics, Inc.            email: acg@datalogics.com
>101 N. Wacker, Ste. 1800    http://www.datalogics.com
>Chicago, IL  60606-7301     Fax: (312) 853-8282
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 17:04:53 -0500
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Beware of Brother's

> had ordered parts from other suppliers and received them and I got "I guess
> we'll send your refund right away" as a response.  I then waited a few days
> and wrote them another e-mail asking for a status check on whether they
> were sending the parts or the refund.  They responded rudely saying "Have
> you ever heard the saying 'Prices and availability may change with the
> customer's attitude'".  They obviously haven't heard the saying "The
> customer is always right." 

Yeah, they get the feeling that they are doing YOU a favor.  Way wrong. 
Keep waiting.  You'll probably die first.  Brother's OBVIOUSLY has more
business than they need, so I won't bother with them anymore because of
their "tactics", and evidently, they don't need my money, so I'll give
it to someone else.  It's also obvious that they need a few courses in
client satisfaction and customer service.  The fact that you bought say,
$30 worth of parts, or even $300, you should still get fair and
reasonable treatment.  The saying "the customer is always..." doesn't
actually fly too well in the '90s, sorry to say.  The customer is not
ALWAYS right.  It would be easy for me to turn away a customer if he
were acting like a chowder-head.  However, if you have given them
reasonable time to address your concerns, was business-like in your
requests,  and they continue to balk, then THEY ARE WRONG!  Personally,
I don't think THEY have the attitude to be in this sort of business.  If
it is too taxing to be concerned about the customer, soon they'll be
wondering why they don't have any business.  As you mentioned Jim
Chermack and Year One; they give you straight-line service, and are
pretty quick to deliver.  Sure you may pay a buck or two more, but it's
better to pay a couple of dollars more and be reasonably sure you'll
have the parts in a week or so, versus just sending money to some
address in Missouri, never to see it again.

Don't feel too bad about this.  Sometimes you gotta learn the hard way. 
Brother's has been known to do this before.  They tout they have the
best service, yadda, yadda,...etc., but I've yet to see it.  I say Put
up or shut up.  Prove it.  They're from Missouri, the show me state. 
SHOW ME THE PARTS!  If they can't send the parts right away, they should
be adult enough to give you an expected time of delivery upfront. 
Customer's seem to be an irritant to Brother's.

I've ordered some stuff from them a couple of times, the first time I
had to call them every other day to get them to send me my stuff.  The
next time I ordered, they knew who I was I guess, and the parts arrived
pretty quick.  Hit or miss, I suppose.  Whatever their problem seems to
be, it doesn't look like they are willing to try and fix it.  And
they've been known to peruse this list before, and have tried to address
some of the concerns.  All I read was a bunch of excuses, not promises. 
Customers want results, not excuses.

While it's not completely true that the customer is ALWAYS right, the
lack of customers will surely eventually solve all Brother's problems
without them having to exert much energy.  If you don't get your
refund/parts soon, then call a lawyer.  Or, have your lawyer call them. 
I believe that you have a legal business-right to receive services/goods
in a reasonable and fair amount of time.  I'll bet if your lawyer calls
them, you'll have your money back or parts delivered pronto.  I just
don't think anyone's ever taken them to task for this, otherwise they'd
probably be doing what they said they'd do.

Another soap box, sorry, but it ticks me when people are rude to other
people.
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 14:11:26 -0700
From: "Anthony Marstall" <anthony.marstall@mailcity.com>
Subject: Re: ADMIN-Small suggestion-No flack please

>Greg, 

>

>Got to wondering during all this hoopla over other makes being

>discussed, dissed, etc.  A lot of us, me included, have several

>different makes of vehicle we own, and in some cases, are trying to

>restore.  While I have 4 Oldsmobiles, I also have a 71 GS455 conv, an

>early RX7, and some 1979-81 Lincolns.  Would it be possible to setup a

>webring that shows the location of other makes?  I'm sure the knowledge

>already is available within the group, nobody wants to ask or say at the

>risk of getting flamed.  I don't have the computer expertise to do this,

>but I think it would be quite helpful to a lot of our "family".  I don't

>mean to change the venue of this group, but only to direct those of us

>with more than one interest in the appropriate direction.  (No folks, I

>don't want out of, or to quit learning about Oldsmobiles, just multiple

>interests.  Kinda of like enjoying brunetts as well as blondes.)  I have

>tried searching for other makes just to see what is out there.  But I

>either don't know how to narrow it down or something.  But, I got to

>thinking there must be other people on this list that would appreciate

>it also.  Just a suggestion folks.  Comments of a constructive nature

>can be emailed direct to me if desired.  Other comments I can do

>without.  Thank you for your time.

>

>Don Sowers

>

There is a great bulletin board for '84-'89 Nissan 300ZX owners at http://www.ripweb.com/zboard
.  It may take a while to load, but it's worth the wait.



Anthony Marstall

'87 Troféo

'84 Nissan 300ZX GLL Turbo



Get your free and private web-based e-mail from our new partner at http://www.mailexcite.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 15:21:30 -0700
From: "clindsay" <clindsay@micron.net>
Subject: re: compression

One of the best ways to increase performance [comp] is by installing the
best cam for the job you want to do.  If it is a 2bbl the comp ratio is 8.5
to 1 a 4 bbl is 9.5to 1. an Erson RV15 or TQ10 would be an outstanding cam
for a 2bbl.  However their TQ20 is  great for a 4bbl.  One of the neat
thing these cams do is to PACK the combustion chamber and increase the
volumetric efficiency  This is predicated on using it as a daily driver.
For serious racing they have much tougher grinds.  Try one, you'll like
it....Clive {the old man, and one of the Idaho trio}

see my car @ http://netnow.micron.net/~tomlind/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 14:22:22 -0700
From: "Anthony Marstall" <anthony.marstall@mailcity.com>
Subject: Help!!!  I can't keep up!

I've been sitting at this computer for three hours now and messages are coming from
the list faster than I can read them!  And I still have 150 left to read!





Get your free and private web-based e-mail from our new partner at http://www.mailexcite.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 15:24:36 -0700
From: Gary Manton <sasgmm@unx.sas.com>
Subject: Fuel Gauge?

Another question, sorry but my manuals don't explain about this phenomenon.

Whenever I put my turn signals on, the gas gauge needle bounces up and down
like a basketball.  When I put on my headlights, my gas gauge drops about
1/2 a tank.  I'm sure it's something electrical, but where do I start to look?

Thanks again, 

G
          \\|//
          (o o)                     
~~~~~~oOOo~(_)~oOOo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Gary M. Manton					SAS Institute
Business Solutions Division			Phoenix, AZ  85012
(602) 265-1616 ext. 230 - voice		        (602) 265-8585 - fax
						(888) 982-4079 - Pager

"In business as in life, your chances of being run over are doubled
if you stay in the middle of the road"
~~~~~~oooo~~~~~oooo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 17:28:26 -0500
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: "GM BLOOD"

> >         I find it very interesting that so many guys on the list, with such
> > consistency, are into "bashing" Chevys 
> 
> Trevor you bring up an excellent point

To each his own I guess.  The following are just my points of view, and
may not reflect other list-member's feelings.

I say go ahead with all your "half-breed" projects.  That would leave
more 455's for the rest of us.  Just kidding.  Most of us bash anything
non-Olds in good fun.  Oldsmobile's been the red-headed step child of GM
for a long time, so we're just giving something back.  :)  I don't think
that anyone would actually take a hammer to a classic Chevy, or anything
else, though.  As always, don't believe everything you read.  

I have a '76 GMC truck with the 502 Chevy BB.  It was a lot easier to
install than a 455.  But I do have a 71 OG Olds TH400 behind it.  I like
Chebbys, Fords and other makes, but I love Olds the best, and I'm proud
to say so.  So what if other makes are GMs?  I don't revere the Chevy
Metro.  It's GM.  Sorta.

I would imagine it has to do with a brand loyalty.  People who love cars
in all denominations are special, to be sure, but for us die-hard Olds
fans, well, we think of it as more of a cult-following.  Such devotion
to Oldses is almost a religion to us.  If you aren't devoted that much,
then you can't understand what I'm talking about.  Don't take things too
personal if it's not directed at anyone.  And you have to be careful on
what you "bash".  Look what happened to the guy who attacked Oldses
here.  He's now somewhere else, by his own accord.  But the list-members
got on his case big-time for that.  This list is primarily for Olds
information, but without some personality, this thing would read like
the FAQ.  We mean no disrespect to other makes, but this is the
sanctuary that we should be able to safely "bash" them, tongue-in-cheek,
of course.

2 cents.
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 14:57:53 -0700
From: "Anthony Marstall" <anthony.marstall@mailcity.com>
Subject: Re: dead battery in calais

>>> I have an 89 calais with the q4 in it and an alarm and 

>>> the battery constantly dies.

>>> The last [battery] put in lasted for about a week and died.

>>

>>Jeez, that's one major drain. Do you have a cigar lighter stuck in,

>>maybe? Lights under the hood or trunk lid not turning off? Glove box 

>>light? You can suspect any circuit that's live with the car off, such as

>>

>>clock, courtesy lights, radio memory, ECM, horn... 



To see if something is draining the battery, a test light can be used in series with
the battery and a disconnected battery cable.  If it lights up, something is draining
it.  

Also, a voltmeter can be hooked up to a battery that is in use on the car.  A fully
charged battery should read 12.6v with the engine off, and 13.5-15v with the engine
idling and the generator charging (yes, I did say generator--it's the SAE standard
term for all cars now since the middle 1980s).  In order for the battery to charge
correctly, the voltage reading with all accessories & A/C on must not be more than
0.5v less than the reading with nothing on except the engine.



Anthony Marstall

'87 Trofeo

'88 Trofeo

'83 CSBrougham 



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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 18:03:40 -0800
From: "David, Terri and Rob" <hoagie@emeraldis.com>
Subject: Re: dead battery in calais

Tom Starkey wrote:
> 
> Hi Shaun:
> 
> I've never tried this personally, but it may help.  A battery drain that quickly is drawing a considerable amount of current. If you  put an 
Amp meter between
> 
> Tom S.
> '68 Cutlass Supreme
> ----------
> From:   Shaun Miller[SMTP:smille02@astro.ocis.temple.edu]
> Subject:        dead battery in calais
> 
> Hey all happy turkey day!!
> 
>     My question is:  I have an 89 calais with
> the q4 in it and an alarm and the battery constantly dies.  i have put 2
> new batteries in it so far (not cheap ones either, the ones used in
> cadillacs).  THe last one put in lasted for about a week and died.  I
> know the alarm dosent suck that much juice.  has anyone else had a
> similar problem.  Lets make this a simple solution, so cadillac roadside
> assistance dosent experience anymore "missing" batteries.
> 
>     ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
>              Attachment 2      Type: application/ms-tnef
>                            Encoding: base64

I have done this test many timees at the car lot I work part time at...I 
have a simpson model 260 meter that I use for this....I can tell you 
that most dome lights will draw around 1 1/2 amps to 2 amps draw...when 
you open the door with the meter attached...on average you shouldn't 
have more than 100 mills draw with the doors closed and the 
ignition in the off position...if its more theres a drain on the 
system.......if its over that....start pulling fuse 1 at a time....while 
watching the meter...and when it drops you have found the circuit that 
is causing the draw...now comes the fun part.....process of 
elimination....this is where sherlock holmes comes in...thank gawd for 
electrical plugs...they help out here....Hoagie

1970 Cutlass SX convertible
1971 442 W-30 convertible
1971 442 "hardtop coupe"
1971 Monte Carlo
1969 Camaro RS
1997 Camaro Z-28

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 16:11:01 -0700
From: Gary Manton <sasgmm@unx.sas.com>
Subject: cross-ref

I am looking for a good parts cross-reference book.  As I am restoring and
rebuilding my 64 Dynamic 88, I would like to know what my other options are.
Does anyone have any suggestions?

G
          \\|//
          (o o)                     
~~~~~~oOOo~(_)~oOOo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Gary M. Manton					SAS Institute
Business Solutions Division			Phoenix, AZ  85012
(602) 265-1616 ext. 230 - voice		        (602) 265-8585 - fax
						(888) 982-4079 - Pager

"In business as in life, your chances of being run over are doubled
if you stay in the middle of the road"
~~~~~~oooo~~~~~oooo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 18:41:22 -0800
From: "David, Terri and Rob" <hoagie@emeraldis.com>
Subject: Re: "GM BLOOD"

Jason Labay wrote:
> 
> Trevor Lee wrote:
> >
> > > what's getting in the way.  Thanks for the tips, but the only thing I'd
> > > take a BFH to is a Chevrolet.  Cheers.
> >
> >         I find it very interesting that so many guys on the list, with such
> > consistency, are into "bashing" Chevys (some more literally than others as this
> > quote from Jason Adcock shows =B)  Especially considering that the cars which
> > you guys are talking about are so closely related to 'em.  I could understand
> > bashing Ford and Chrysler, who, IMHO both made many fine musclecars as well,
> > several of which I would be proud to own, but to bash other GMs??
> 
> Trevor you bring up an excellent point, one I have been wondering about
> since I joined this list back in May of 1995. I too wonder why there is
> so much Chevy bashing here as you are correct in that the divisions
> share parts that are interchangable. I don't know about you but I get a
> kick out of it myself. I am in the process of building an 80 Olds drag
> car for next racing season and haven't started the motor yet. Was going
> to go the 455 route, but a new crate LS1 is much more tempting and I
> would love the look on the Olds elite faces when I pop the hood. In fact
> I can't see why I shouldn't go with the LS1. It is all aluminum and
> light compared to the iron 455. F-bodies are running low 13's in stock
> form with this motor...in a lightened G-body whis would hit high 12's
> with ease just bolting it in. LS1 also has 6 bolt main caps for extra
> piece of mind :-) For the price of a "nice" 455 build up I can get a new
> LS1. Oh well I haven't even got the suspension done yet, let alone
> worrying about the motor.
> 
> Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com) Akron, OH
> Quality Engineer - TRW Automotive Group, Inc.
> 95 Impala SS
> 80 Olds 442 W-30
> 75 Hurst/Olds W-25


as an owner of a 6 speed '97 Camaro..believe me no one loves the new aluminum motor than me....this car flies 
and its only the LT-1...but I can assure you of 1 thing...when it comes time to re sleeve that aluminum motor 
you'll wished you had an iron block....and just remeber 1 thing...when you put a blower or hop up the 
induction on these motors...THEY BREAK!!!....they are not built to sustain 400HP and 500 ft lbs of 
torque.....they were never designed to do this....I just read a magazine about it the other day....Super Chevy 
Magazine...they stated the main reason for it was the piston and ring setup....but just remeber this when you 
start harping about the power to weight ratio....and lets not forget about the weak link....the body 
flex....but as far as mileage  from a 300+ HP motor and a very versatile transmission...runs 1800 rpm  at 80 
mph....an extremely streetable ride....but what I like about the olds big block is the abilty to cloud both 
tires through a stock 3.91 12 bolt posi...and never touch the massive secondaries awaiting your beck and 
call....such huge amounts of torque and horsepower just a touch away is incredible...I don't think for a a 
minute we will ever see this kinds of horsepower and torque in a vehicle for less than 60k...which is a lil 
too steep for my wallet....Hoagie                                                                             


1970 Cutlass SX convertible
1971 442 W-30 convertible
1971 442 "hardtop coupe"
1971 Monte Carlo
1969 Camaro RS
1997 Camaro Z-28

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 16:42:16 -0600
From: "LAURA D. STEINKE" <WPODOM1.HORT-FOREST.LSTEINKE@taexgw.tamu.edu>
Subject: Questions...Rust, chrome and engines

It's me again <grin>  Just mostly trying to give a little bit of an update on
my poor car while trying to catch up on digests.  

Well first of all those that may remember my 455 which got rebuilt about 6
5 months ago now.  Due to a little mechanical problems I had while taking
it on it's maiden long distance voyage...I got someone to look at Pook's
innards and come up with more than I wanted to hear.  Namely the rebuilt
wasn't done real well and I should get the lifters looked at while it was
still under warrenty.  Funny thing is it's been making the exact same noise
since I first got it but I just figgured that the Mechanics checked
everything first <sigh>  Remind me not to make that mistake again ;) 
Anyway the lifters arn't great.  As if that isn't good enough news, but I've
got some nasty exhaust leaks up there, and the brake fluid assembly (I
forgot the name for it already) is on it's last leg, and I need a new water
pump and a new carb & choke (since my carb is also on it's last leg and
the choke - well it's not only dead, but has been buried for a long time). 
The only good news in this, is that the engine and exhaust stuff is still
under warrenty and the rest of it is getting done by a knowledgable friend
for cost of parts...*and* I get to hover over his shoulder too <grin>

About the chrome...I'm not looking for replating the real chrome stuff, just
that plastic chrome-look painted stuff which is around the arm rests in the
door panel.  Anyway, I know the current solution is the silver paint pen,
but it gives a silver look instead of the shiney chrome look.  Question is - I
was browsing through the auto store this weekend and came across a
can of 'chrome' paint.  Which is *supposed* to have the end results of
shiney chrome.  Has anyone used this or something similar?  I didn't get a
chance to buy the can at the time so can't give any maker or brand name. 
I was just wondering if anyone has tested this with good results.  Either
way I will probaby get some to test on a few bits of plastic to see the end
result before getting it anywhere near the car.

About the rust, it's getting *terrible* in the trunk.  It's a wonder that the
whole thing hasn't fallen out yet...maybe it's the gas tank holding it up :\ 
Well I vaugly recall some rust converter that Eastwood sells...Corrosless I
think it was...At any rate has anyone used this and can you paint over it? 
I don't seem to recall if you were able to paint over it when finished and if
it's the same thing I'm thinking of, then I really don't want a red looking
trunk no matter *how* well it works...Okay, well maybe, but I'd really
rather not <chuckle>  Anyway, suggestions for this?  I need some sort of
converter cause the rust is *really* Really bad.

Thanks again
Laura

66 Delta 88 aka Pook
Texas

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 18:58:04 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: "GM BLOOD"

Mike Rothe wrote:

> for a long time, so we're just giving something back.  :)  I don't think
> that anyone would actually take a hammer to a classic Chevy, or anything
> else, though.  As always, don't believe everything you read.

Yeah, don't think I'd ACTUALLY bash a Chevy with a BFH, I was just making
some fun.  Seriously, what I don't like (and actually did before, but now
stopped) is the substitution of asterisks for certain letters (vowels, by
everyone elses use) in the words Chevrolet, Ford, etc.  I figure if that
"word" actually had enough to do with your post, you should at least give
it the respect and spell out the whole word.  ;-)  Just my opinion, though.

The reason I bash the Chevys is because they have the reputation of being
the "cheap" GM brand.  I have respect for them, though, as my friend's 87
Monte Carlo SS would whoop up on my Cutlass.  I have a Pontiac limited-slip
axle in my 84 CSC, but I'd still give a Pontiac person a hard time, just as
a Pontiac person would give me a hard time, even though he might have a
late-70's Trans Am with an Olds 403 in it.

Later folks...

_____________________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.erols.com/adcockjk

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 97 19:00:46 EST
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: carpet

At 02:00 PM 12/1/97 -0700, you wrote:
>where is the best place to get good carpet for the best price?
>
>Dustin


      I got mine from Year One and was real happy with the quality and ease
of installation.

   Glenn
   '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 19:37:17 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge?

> From: Gary Manton <sasgmm@unx.sas.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Fuel Gauge?
> Date: Monday, December 01, 1997 5:24 PM
> 
> Another question, sorry but my manuals don't explain about this
phenomenon.
> 
> Whenever I put my turn signals on, the gas gauge needle bounces up and
down
> like a basketball.  When I put on my headlights, my gas gauge drops about
> 1/2 a tank.  I'm sure it's something electrical, but where do I start to
look?
> 
> Thanks again, 

Gary 

I would first suggest checking ground, next perhaps the harness itself for
a possible melt down joining some wires together.
There isn't much to a gas tank electical that could go wrong

Bob

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 19:40:23 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: need xpert valve help

I was having some #5 heads fitted with larger intakes from a C head, and the
machine shop called and said the larger intakes were too short. According to
the manuals, the #5 heads' intakes are indeed about 0.050" longer than most
others, including the C heads' intakes.

Me, I feel that 0.050" is not much different... at 100# per 0.400" [spring
konstant], that's only about a 10# difference in seat pressure.

So, if the retainer to spring seat distance is just too small, the choices I
guess are 1) new longer valves. Big bux. 2) retainers that sit higher. Pretty
soon, the tip of the valve is buried though. 3) cut the spring seat deeper.

Any recommendations from the experts??

I already looked over all the valve lengths from '65 to '76, doesn't look like
any are quite as long as the #5 intakes. So, just getting some more used ones
from the stash does not look possible.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 19:50:30 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: motors available

I have some used motors available, thought that customizers might be able to
use them. They are seat track motors... not like the typical GM of the late
'60's, these are really stand-alone linear actuators.

They are about 11" pin to pin retracted, and travel about 2" in about 4
seconds. They draw about 3A typically, and up to 20A at stall. Can exert up to
about 1000 # force max. Would operate well at 100-300#. The extension is done
by an acme thread lead screw which is turned by a worm gear from the motor
which is mounted crosswise to the lead screw at the base. Base end has a 1/4"
pin hole thru a 13/16" wide boss; small end has a 5/16" pin hole thru a 13/16"
OD hollow tube, and there is a slot to accomodate a 1/8" or so thick tab in the
middle of the tube. Connectors are typically bare wires or recessed 1/4" tabs,
you'd have to fix that up. They run both directions by reversing polarity.
Accomodations need to be made to ensure that the lead screw does not come all
the way out, though some have captive lead screws.

I could envision them being used for remote control trunk lid mechanisms,
parking brake applier for anti-theft, pin extender for anti-theft [lock hood
shut, lock driveshaft from turning, etc.] Heck, you could even use them to
adjust a seat! :-)

Anyhow, there's a few of these that we were gonna throw out, after we tested
them a while. No guarantee of longevity. Easy to fix, though, and a lot of new
vehicles are using them.

I'll send 'em out for a reasonable shipping fee.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 19:59:31 -0800
From: "David, Terri and Rob" <hoagie@emeraldis.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge?

Gary Manton wrote:
> 
> Another question, sorry but my manuals don't explain about this phenomenon.
> 
> Whenever I put my turn signals on, the gas gauge needle bounces up and down
> like a basketball.  When I put on my headlights, my gas gauge drops about
> 1/2 a tank.  I'm sure it's something electrical, but where do I start to look?
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> G
>           \\|//
>           (o o)
> ~~~~~~oOOo~(_)~oOOo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> 
> Gary M. Manton                                  SAS Institute
> Business Solutions Division                     Phoenix, AZ  85012
> (602) 265-1616 ext. 230 - voice                 (602) 265-8585 - fax
>                                                 (888) 982-4079 - Pager
> 
> "In business as in life, your chances of being run over are doubled
> if you stay in the middle of the road"
> ~~~~~~oooo~~~~~oooo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
my 1st guess would be back feeding a ground somewhere....since the fuel 
guage works on ohms to ground principle.....the only other thing that 
comes to mind is a positive energy problem at the guage itself thats 
surged when you turn on the turn signals and headlights......but i would 
lean more towards the ground problem.....sounds alot like a problem my 
buddy had with his c**velle...it was the thin plastic wit copper 
conductors inlaid in it...1 ground was broken and he was having a lot of 
simular problems such as your descibing...backfed through the circuit 
and caused lots of troubles in more than 1 circuit....Hoagie


1970 Cutlass SX convertible
1971 442 W-30 convertible
1971 442 "hardtop coupe"
1971 Monte Carlo
1969 Camaro RS
1997 camaro Z-28

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #982
********************************

