
oldsmobile-digest      Tuesday, October 21 1997      Volume 01 : Number 916



Re: 1973-75 Interchangeability
UNBOUNCE: '71 Cutlass S FS
RE: 83 Hurst - Wont Start
RE: Roller Rockers - Steel Tip Vs. Al 
Re: Is it just me...
Re: New looks for Olds
7.5" rear end question
Re: Front Springs for a 65 Cutlass
Re: Values
Re: 70 442 value ????
Re: Add-on Airco
Re: Roller Rockers - Steel Tip Vs. Al
Re: Is it just me...
RE: real '72 442
Re: turbo 400 parts needed
Re: Mail Order Parts (Wishkowski??)
Questions
Re: real '72 442
RE: Info on the recent spammers in this mailing list
performance carb?
Carb #'s available
brake gage
Re: Mail Order Parts (Wishkowski??)
Re: stock roller lifters for diesel
xman W31 decoding
RE: Roller Rockers - Steel Tip Vs. Al
roller cams
tstat trouble?
Re: Is it just me...
350 heads => 403
location in sig file
Re: advice on after market
MT => AT swap
Nat'l Parts Depo url
Buick SSI lookalikes
HEI Info in new FAQ 4.0
RE: Olds Toronado
Re: header conversion
Re: header conversion
Re: header conversion
Re: header conversion
Spindles Wanted (Again!)
Re: Buick SSI lookalikes
Re[2]: real '72 442
RE: Roller Rockers - Steel Tip Vs. Al
Diesel roller lifters
Re: Oil Plug size, 72 to 75 455 (9/16 to 7/8)
Quadrajet
Re: '78 Delta: Shot Myself in the Foot
Re: Diesel roller lifters
Re: Emissions...
Re: Olds Toronado
Re: turbo 400 parts needed
rear speaker question
Insuring lots of cars (Was: new Olds?)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 05:27:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: DrkSole@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1973-75 Interchangeability

In a message dated 97-10-20 20:37:11 EDT, you write:

<< windshield
 side windows
 dash
 trunklid
 wheel well trim >>

Well, the glass will interchange, I'm fairly certain, as will the wheel well
trim.. the dash will definetly interchange; it's the same through 77, though
the 76-77 had some differences from the 73-75 dash, mainly in wear the clock,
and cruise control controls are.  I think the trunklids are also
interchangeable.    
The 73-77 years are pretty much subdivided between the 73-75, and the 76-77.
 The 76 model year was a revision to the body style, with quad square
headlights, and smooth body sides vs the dual round headlight, sculpted
73-75.  the header panel, gill and front bumper was different for each year,
though the 76-77 shared the same bumpers.  almost any mechanical part will
interchange 73-77, though some of the wiring for the AC on the 76-77 is
different.. in 76 they also changed to location of the clock to over the
glove box vs under the wiper control for the 73-75.  
Hopefully this helps, I've done a bit of research into these years, though
they seem to be forgotten by the restoration aftermarket..  

DrkSole
73 Cutlass Supreme
67 Delta 88 Custom

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 07:20:18 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: '71 Cutlass S FS

Forwarding... reply directly to him.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	skonberg.g@mail.lchs.lake.k12.il.us

I have a partially restored 1971 Cutlass "S" and am regretfully looking to
sell it.

There has been a lot of work done:

new rear quarters - finished both
outer wheelhousing - both
trunk filler panels - both
full length floor pans - both
frame brushed and undercoated
engine is out and on a stand

I also have lots of parts:

3 hoods, 2 trunk lids, one extra dash pad (black), 2 interior front window
pillars and
other misc.

$3500 invested will part for $1800.

Anyone interested?

Greg Skonberg
Chicago, IL
gskonber@trustmarkins.com
(847) 615-1500 x.1169

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Oct 97 04:56:56 UT
From: "Thomas Conlon" <SysEng@classic.msn.com>
Subject: RE: 83 Hurst - Wont Start

After I have looked some more. Can Any of you people tell me what kind
of sympton I would get if I had lost my timing chain. It seems to be
blowing air out of the carb not sucking and I get practiclly no reading
when I have checked the compression on #1 & #3 cylinders. Should I pull
the valve cover (lost of fun with all the stuff I have to remove first)?

Having lost 2 timing chains, sounds about right, distributor rotation, gas 
flow, spark, no crank.  

- -Tom Conlon
syseng@msn.com

p.s. have heard that excessive cranking in this condition can damage valves, 
if the actual throwing of the chain didn't do anything.  Although I must say 
it seems suspicious in that throwing the timing chain usually occurs during 
operation.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 05:46:06 -0500
From: Flipper <phillil@redoak.heartland.net>
Subject: RE: Roller Rockers - Steel Tip Vs. Al 

 I've experienced that adjusting
>them while running is the best but how do you stop the oil from getting
>everywhere? I'm thinking of getting another pair of rocker covers and
>cutting a large slot on top. This way no oil gets out . Any comments...?
>
>Fernando Proietto
>Systems Analyst - Informatics


I have done this with a lot of GM vehicles in the past.  Cutting off the top
of the valve covers makes it much better and keeps most of the oil inside
the engine.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 06:51:01 -0700
From: Ingmar Ott <iao2@cdc.gov>
Subject: Re: Is it just me...

"chris smetana" wrote:
>How 'bout a Firehawk, or even the WS-6 Formula, a Saleen Mustang or the 
>a forementioned Viper.
>There's always a 'vette

Those aren't bad choices, but for me they are too unpractical.  I was
thinking of staying in the ballpark and a $50k+ Viper, while nice, is
not in my future.  Maybe I should have made another distinction here. 
To me, the Vette, Camaro, TransAm, Viper... those are Sports cars with
very little practical value when you have a wife and kids.  But just
because you have a wife and kids doesn't mean you don't want to play. 
With the original 442s, Chevelle SS, Nova SS, GTOs and so on you had all
the power to have fun, while still owning a practical vehicle.  This is
why I said, that in recent history, only the Impala SS would come close
to this mix of useful yet powerful combo.

Ingmar Ott		iao2@cdc.gov
'77 Cutlass 442
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 06:58:09 -0700
From: Ingmar Ott <iao2@cdc.gov>
Subject: Re: New looks for Olds

>Caught a (late) promotional infomercial for GM the other night - they
>introduced Olds with the comment "having just celebrated the 100th
>anniversary, Oldsmobile now looks to heading away from the past into the
>future" (sic), the impression was that Olds is playing catchup to the
>generic trendy import basic car appearances.  Yeah right.  Buick sounded
>more hip with their supercharging, etc.  It was a very anemic overview 
>of all of GM actually.

Couldn't agree more.  Sometimes I wonder what the designers at GM are
smoking..

Ingmar Ott		iao2@cdc.gov
'77 Cutlass 442
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Oct 1997 12:55:56 -0400
From: Andy Geeting <geetinag@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu>
Subject: 7.5" rear end question

Hey everyone, 

     Well it's me again. After the air cleaner incident I guess I'm
paranoid. I think there's a noise coming from my rear end. I just had it
rebuilt this summer, put in a 3.73 rear gear, Auburn sure-grip limited slip
and so on. Seems when I'm slowing down and making a right hand turn (has to
be somewhat of a tight turn) I hear a faint whirring noise. It doesn't last
long and is only when I make a right turn. Is this something serious? The
rear end only has but maybe 4,000 miles on it since the rebuild. Can
someone ease my mind? Thanks.

Andy Geeting

'87 Cutlass Supreme
'88 Cutlass Supreme Classic Brougham
'74 Delta 88 convertible
'78 Caprice wagon
'36 Plymouth coupe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Oct 1997 13:10:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: DEOVIVERE@aol.com
Subject: Re: Front Springs for a 65 Cutlass

In a message dated 97-10-17 01:11:14 EDT, you write:

<<  Tom I have the number of the original manufacturer who made them for
 Lansing in 1965.  They have all the iriginal specs.  The price was
 somwhere around $90.00. The only problem is that the number is at my
 office and i'll have to get it to you.  >>

Greetings BRO

Thanks for the response to my 65 Cutlass springs question.  You mentioned
knowing of a source for a variety of original/repro springs.  I'd appreciate
any additional info you can give me on this.  

Thanks

Tom Simmons
deovivere@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 03:33:05 -0700
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Values

Hi Lisa,

> outta curiosity here, what do they show as prices for the '66
> Toro?  And a '64 Cutlass?

Car                         6       5       4       3       2       1
64 Cutlass Spt Cpe        350     900    1500    3000    5250    7500
64 Cutlass 2d HT          350    1020    1700    3400    5950    8500
64 Cutlass Conv           550    1700    2800    5600    9800   14000
66 Toronado Spt HT        400    1300    2200    4400    7700   11000
66 Toronado Cus HT        450    1400    2300    4600    8100   11500
67 Delta 88 Custom 4d HT  350     840    1400    2800    4900    7000
67 Delta 88 Custon 2d HT  350     975    1600    3200    5600    8000
69 Toronado 2d HT **      450    1140    1900    3800    6650    9500
72 Vista Cruiser 2S       150     600     900    1800    3150    4500
72 Vista Cruiser 3S       150     600     950    1850    3200    4600

** Add 20% for W-34 option

I threw the others in for ya.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 03:41:42 -0700
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: 70 442 value ????

Boogah Wolfe wrote: 

> What is the criteria for "good" vs "very good" vs "fine" etc...

6 Parts Car:  May or may not be running, but is weathered, wrecked and/
              or stripped to the point of being useful primarily for
              parts.

5 Restorable: Needs COMPLETE restoration of body, chassis and interior.
              May or may not be running, but isn't weathered, wrecked or
              stripped to the point of being useful only for parts.

4 Good:       A driveable vehicle needing no or only minor work to be
              functional.  Also, a deteriroated restoration or a very
              poor amateur restoration.  All components may need
              restoration to be "excellent," but the car is mostly 
              useable "as is".

3 Very Good: Completely operable original or "older restoration" 
             showing wear.  Also a good amateur restoration, all
             presentable and serviceable inside and out.  Plus,
             combinations of well-done restoration and good operable
             components or a partialy restored car with all parts
             necessary to complete and/or valuable NOS parts.

2 Fine:      Well-restored, or a combination of superior restoration 
             and excellent original.  Also an EXTREMELY well-maintained
             original showing very minimal wear.

1 Excellent: Restored to current maximum professional standards of
             quality in every area, or perfect original with components
             operating and appearing as new.  A 96-plus point show car
             that is not driven.


This is what the book says.

Chris

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 07:18:47 -0500
From: "John C. Ramsey" <jramsey@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: Add-on Airco

I have personal experience with both of these companies (Vintage Air and
Airtique).  Here's basically what it boiled down to:

    I had a '66 Mustang with a 200 straight six.  The only option the
car had was an automatic tranny.  I added Airtique A/C a few summers
back.  I had chosen Airtique due to the price advantage ($800 for their
underdash A/C over Vintage Air's $1100 for an entire A/C heater
defroster setup.)  I was sorry for my choice within a week.  The
installation was a real bear.  It was basically a universal kit with a
bracket to hold the Sanden compressor in place.  By the time I finished
I had spent over $1000 on it, and it never was all that good!  Not to
mention my car overheated when I used it, but that's a lovely Ford
problem...

    I am currently team captain for the '37 Chevy "Dual Fuel" Street Rod
project of the University of Texas at Austin Society of Automotive
Engineers.  One of our sponsors is Vintage Air, who has sponsored the
project with all the parts for the A/C.  When they got here, I was
absolutely floored.  It's an entire R-134a A/C heat defrost setup with
all the controls, ducting, louvers, and underhood hardware we need.
It's basically just like a brand new production model A/C that you can
put in your rod.  In fact I think that Vintage Air does OEM A/C
production for some vehicle manufacturers.  The guys at VA are awesome,
and are trying to work up articles on our project in Rod 'n Custom and
Street Rodder.  I haven't put up a whole lot of info on Vintage Air, but
you can check out the Chevy's web site at :

    http://nesc.me.utexas.edu/~sae/chevy.html (my Cutlass is actually on
the "Team Members" page!)

Vintage Air has a web site at :

    http://www.vintageair.com

    Well there's my two-bits.  I think Vintage Air is the way to go.
High quality at a reasonable price.  Good Luck!

John Ramsey
'69 Cutlass 'S'

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 07:28:18 -0500
From: "John C. Ramsey" <jramsey@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: Roller Rockers - Steel Tip Vs. Al

I'd go with the steel roller tipped badboys.

    The reason for this is that Aluminum Roller Rockers utilize a
"needle bearing" setup at the fulcrum.  Yeah this is nice for reducing
friction, but after a little bit of use, the bearings begin to wallow
out their seat in the aluminum!  This causes the owner to have to adjust
them every month or two, and most of the time unable to figure out why
his dang rockers won't stay adjusted!  Aluminum rockers are generally
good for about 12 passes, and then their worthless (this is pretty good
if you're tearing down the engine constantly for races).

    The steel rockers don't have this problem.  They are a little
heavier, and don't have a roller-bearing fulcrum, but they do have
roller tips.  Mondello's set seem to be high quality and easy to deal
with.

    So if you're dealing with a daily driver, it would probably be wise
to use steel.

John Ramsey
'69 Cutlass 'S' 455

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 08:47:39 -0400
From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Subject: Re: Is it just me...

> Just to add a little more salt to the wound:
> Ford is working on re-releasing the 1956 Thunderbird as a new car in the
> year 2000.  It would not be 100% 1956, as it would have to be year 2000
> legal, but maybe OLDSMOBILE will hear rumor and start working on one of OUR
> classics for new release.

Hmmm... anyone remember that weird mini-series a couple of years ago,
_Wild Palms_?  It was set a few years from now (like in, oh say, 2001),
and yet everyone was driving cars like '56 T-Birds and 1st generation Vettes.
Maybe the producers were onto something....



Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 08:52:16 -0400
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: real '72 442

"Real", is not a good word. The fact that a 442 car is in front of you
makes it real, whether it's an "actual" 442 model is questionable.  You
must understand what constitutes a 442. In years previous to '72, i.e.
'71 and older, the 442 "model" could be distinguished by the VIN code,
which actually, made the 442 a model, just like the Cutlass or F-85. In
'72 the only 442 that could be distinguished is the W-30, because the
VIN code had an 'X' . The only thing I'm trying to say is that there
were actual 442 models in years '71 and prior, with the exception of the
'72 W-30. These models were distinguishable by the VIN code. In '72, a
442 was only available as options. So in retrospect, any ole '72 Cutlass
S with the 442 options added is a Cutlass S with the 442 option. But
because all the emblems have changed to 442 (except for the glove box),
people assume and actually say, it's a 442.  This is not correct, it's a
Cutlass with the 442 option, unless it's a W-30.

Fernando Proietto
Systems Analyst - Informatics

Environment Canada
Ontario Region - Monitoring & Systems Branch
4905 Dufferin St. 
Downsview, Ontario
M3H 5T4

> ----------
> From: 	DDMRACER@aol.com[SMTP:DDMRACER@aol.com]
> Sent: 	Monday, October 20, 1997 1:44 PM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Re: real '72 442
> 
> In a message dated 97-10-16 12:20:21 EDT, you write:
> 
> << I don't believe there are any fake 442's only Cutlasses
>  with the 442 options added to them. >>
> 
> from the above i take that you also believe that there are no
> "real" '72 442s. so if i take any ole 72 cutlass s  and add the 
> 442 options it will be as "real" as its going to get? are you 
> saying the only "real" 442s are the 71s and prior when it was
> a model by its self?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 09:03:34 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: turbo 400 parts needed

At 09:50 PM 10/20/97 -0500, you wrote:
Patrick

        We have all the parts you're looking for.I know we're not in the
Detroit area, but we do alot of shipping world wide. The flexplate is $50,
Shifter, with console and cable $175 (nice, black console) and driveshaft
$50. Plus shipping to your area. Should be around $30.00.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts
(757) 474-0869

>I need a flex plate, shifter  and driveshaft for my 69 442 conv. that I
>am switching to an automatic.  If anyone local(metro detroit) can hook
>me up  I would be grateful.  
>
>patrickd@wwnet.com
>69 442 conv
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 09:16:29 EDT
From: CRuper1 <CRuper1@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Mail Order Parts (Wishkowski??)

In a message dated 97-10-21 01:33:32 EDT, you write:

<< 
 Anybody know of a place called Wishkowski's in Chicago???
 
 I am not sure of the spelling, but was told by someone that they are a
 LARGE auto parts mail order house... (Or just another Urban Myth...)
 
  >>
Wouldn't that be Warshawski's, and I'm sure that means JC Whitney.

Nope, no urban myth, just the wrong name.  I'm sure you recognize JC Whitney,
right?..... :)

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 06:18:55 -0700
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Questions

Hi all,

Before I forget, here are some questions I would like to have answered.

1) Are hood latches the same between 68-72 Cutlasses/4-4-2s?
2) Which electric motors work on 68-72 Cutlasses/4-4-2s?  How about
   other models that would work.

Thanks in advance

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 09:32:29 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: real '72 442

><SNIP> '72 W-30. These models were distinguishable by the VIN code. In '72, a
> 442 was only available as options. So in retrospect, any ole '72 Cutlass
> S with the 442 options added is a Cutlass S with the 442 option. But
> because all the emblems have changed to 442 (except for the glove box),
> people assume and actually say, it's a 442.  This is not correct, it's a
> Cutlass with the 442 option, unless it's a W-30.

Hmmmm, I'm not disclaiming the viewpoint here, but any old 442 is an
option.  But the 68-71's were their own model line you say?  Well, true,
but if you look on the build sheets for 69 at least, the W-29 (442)
option was included as standard equipment.  The little * next to the
option code signified standard options.  Hmmmm.  Cutlass or no, if it
has 442 emblems (or decals) on it from the factory, it's a 442 in my
book.  Maybe an exception to this would be the 68-69 H/O.  They have 442
VINs, but no 442 emblems.

"Unless it's a W-30?"  Again. Hmmm.  I thought the W-30 was another
option which enhanced the '72 W-29 option.  Of the 72 W-30's I've seen,
they all had "Cutlass" on the glovebox.  I assume that you mean that is
the only way to TELL if it came with the 442 option without the build
sheet....

my view.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 09:25:46 -0400
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: RE: Info on the recent spammers in this mailing list

On Monday, October 20, 1997 12:30 PM, Andrew C. Green
[SMTP:acg@dlogics.com] wrote:
> Greg, I'm hoping someone at chebucto can figure out how this slime
> is still getting onto the list after we closed it.
> 
>
Andy, I have not seen any of the spam post on the list. I read/look at
all the post and have not seen any (not that I want to). Are you or Greg
stopping it or what?


Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the ....Past

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 10:35:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: performance carb?

> 3) What would be the cheapest but best hi-performance carb to put on the
> 403? Is the 403 a good engine to supe up?

Carter for decent perfomance and price, Holly for REAL performance,
but price is a bit higher. Holly makes a Replacement Quadrajet
Peformance Carb, that would be the most cost effective and easy to
put in, otherwise, If I remember correctly, Holly 4150 double pumpers
range $250-325 range.
====================
Holley for what? Puh-leeze. Do I need to reiterate the story of the
455-Torker-Holley 750 race car running 14.5's, swapped out for the 112,000 mile
old untouched unopened '66 Toro 425 motor with factory Qjet in place on factory
lo-rise intake, which then ran 13.5 in the same car same driver, same track,
etc. The Qjet, properly set up, kicks ass.
  If you're in the $300-400 range- look into the NOS 7029253 carbs I have
available. $400 delivered, less maybe if you twist my arm, for BRAND NEW
correct for Olds [69 442 MT exc. W30] carbs. $300 for rebuilt units. Many other
numbers available.
- --
Chris  B. Witt
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 10:37:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Carb #'s available

Below is a partial listing of the New or Rebuilt carbs available.

Some carbs are new, having no evidence of bolt markings, etc. even though
packaged in a box marked "rebuilt." Some carbs are factory service units, in an
AC-Delco box, apparently new. Most are rebuilt, many with correct coloring
still on the body section. When in doubt, assume unit is rebuilt, but of course
I can check for exact status if only NOS will do.

Many boxes say "Carb Rebuilders, Inc., Plainfield, NJ" or "Rebuilt for AC
Delco by an independent rebuilder".

N=New, R=Rebuilt, S=Factory Service carb, #=No. units on hand, or more.
N/R Number    Application, price, notes, etc.

R9+ ??      = "64-5 Pontiac TC Center carb". "PO-78A" Side inlet, puny bores

R   6132S   = ?? Looks like a'68-9 style choke, etc.
N   7016703 = ?? NOS only.
N   7026250 = 66 Olds NOS. $??
    7026254 = Basic '66 Olds 330 carb. NOS. $200, C's personal.
    7026255 = ??
        Tag missing, is written "6255" in place.

R   7027061 = 67 2V
    7027131 = 1967 ?? Toro??
    7027146 = ??
    7027149 = ??
    7027156 = 1967 ????
N,S 7027157 = 1967 ??

R   7028060 = ??
R   7028062 = ??
    7028210 = 68 Chevy? Corvette?
R   7028231 = 68 Cadillac ???
R   7028237 = 68 Cadillac ???
R   7028240 = 68 Buick
N   7028244 = ??
R   7028248 = ?
R   7028250 = 68 Olds basic 4V
    7028251 = 68 Olds BB 4V, including 442 [?]
R   7028252 = 68 Toro, remanufactured, Looks new.
R9+ 7028261 = 68 Pontiac ??,
R9+ 7028262 = 68 Pontaic ??,
N   7028266 = 68 Pontiac ?? Busted choke pulloff.
    7028267 = 68 Pontiac ??
N   7028269 = 68 Pontiac ??

R   7029060 = ??
N,S 7029156 = 69 Olds 350-2V NOS, P/N 7016956
R   7029200 = 69 Chevy?
R   7029201 = 69 Chevy?
R   7029202 = 69 Chevy ??
R   7029230 =
R   7029231 =
N   7029241 = 69 Buick Riviera w/ 430?
R   7029244 = 69 Buick ??
N,S9+   7029245 = ??
    7029250 = 69 Olds basic 4V, 350 ??
R9+ 7029251 = 69 Olds H/O, 442-AT exc. W30 or W32
        with later style choke, round black coil on the carb.
        "Delco Rebuilt" Delco box, stock # "14-291"
R5+ 7029252 = 69 Olds Toro??, MANY of these on hand.
N,S 7029253 = 69 Olds 442-MT & W32, exc. W30.
        Delco Box: 24-548, Gr. 3.725, PN 7016937
        Dates: -none-, 2568, 1909, 3099, 0323, 0444, 2744, 0935, 0935,
            0935, 0995, 3295, 3295, 2226, 0627, 1867
R   7029253 = 69 Olds 442-MT & W32, exc. W30.
        Dates: 0627, 2567, 0444,
S   7029254 = 69 Olds 442, w/W30. $800 or trade for 7028254.
        Date 2361 [1971?? dated Factory Service Carb?]
N   7029261 = 69 Pontiac?
R9+ 7029262 = 69 Pontiac?
R   7029268 = 69 Pontiac?

N9+ 7040244 = 70 Buick ??
R   7040247 = 70 Buick ??
    7040251 = 70 Olds BB 4V
N2  7040252 = 70 Olds Toronado 4V
    7040258 = 70 Olds 442 w/ W30 & ATrans. USED as is $500, Rebuilt $700.
        --SOLD xchange for aclnr pending--
R   7040262 = 70 Pontiac?
    7040263 = 70 Pontiac?
N   7040264 = 70 Pontiac?
N   7040563 = 70 Pontiac?

    7041250 = 71 Olds basic 4V- 350??
N   7041252 = 71 Toro?
R   7041261 = ??
R2  7041262 = ??
R5  7041264 = 71 Pontiac?
    7041309 = ?? Has '66 style damper across the top.
    7041312 = 71 Caddy?
R   7041540 = 71 ???

    7042237 = 72 Chevy ??
    7042238 = 72 Chevy ??
    7042244 = 72 Buick ??
N   7042245 = 72 Buick ??
N   7042252 = 72 Olds Toro ??
    7042262 = 72 Pontiac ??
R   7042264 = 72 Pontiac?
R2  7042274 = 72 Pontiac ??
R   7042278 = 72 Pontiac?

S9  7043245 = ??
    7043251 = 73 Olds
N,R 7043256 = 73 Olds 350 L35 w/ AT & AC
R   7043262 =
N   7043263 =
S   7043264 =
S   7043266 =
N   7043282 = 73 Olds Marine?

N   7044269 = 74 Pontiac ??
N3  7044276 = 74 Pontiac ??

N   7045554 = ?
    7047345 = Buick, "24-171" also.

    17040509 = ??
    17054901 = ?? 9XX= Special apps, usually, sometimes use for 442.
N   17054905 = ??
N   17054942 = 84?? Olds, model??
    17056262 = ??
    17080243 = ??
End of available carbs list.
More are there, these were easiest to spot numbers for.
- --
Chris  B. Witt
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu


- --
Chris  B. Witt
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 10:40:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: brake gage

This weekend I thought I'd give it one last try and got ahold of a drum brake
se tting gauge. It's basically an inside/outside caliper that transfer the
correct d rum to shoe clearance. After setting my brakes with the gauge, I have
less than 1 " pedal travel and the brakes stop the car great! No more driving
in fear of havi ng to react quickly and not making it.

About the only thing I want to do to the brakes now is add a power booster.
BTW, I have never seen a mechanic use one of these gauges at any repair shop
I've been to.
==================

Sounds like your adjusters were never set properly then. May not be working
either. If on the wrong side, they never will self-adjust properly. USUALLY,
left hand thread goes on RH side of car. I always check the action of the
adjusters by hand before placing drum on.
  Mechanics hardly ever use the gage because it's not necessary- leave em
loose, install the drum, crank out the adjuster until a slight drag is felt.
Center the brakes by applying, readjust, should be done.

- --
Chris  B. Witt
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 10:46:41 -0400
From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Subject: Re: Mail Order Parts (Wishkowski??)

At 09:20 PM 10/20/1997 -0700, you wrote:
>Dan Lacey wrote:
>> 
>> Anybody know of a place called Wishkowski's in Chicago???
>> 
>> I am not sure of the spelling, but was told by someone that they are a
>> LARGE auto parts mail order house... (Or just another Urban Myth...)
>*****
>

You can request a J.C. Whitney catalog online at the following URL:

http://www.edmunds.com/edweb/JCWhitney/JCWhitney.html




*********************************************
Dan Gulino
1975 Delta 88 Convertible
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/rides.html
*********************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 10:43:56 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: stock roller lifters for diesel

>I have a set of roller lifters and guides from an 81 350 diesel.
>These lifters fit in my 67 400 cu. block.  Is it posible to have the cam
>reground to gas engine specs?  Is this feasable?  Thanks for any help

It would be better to buy a performance cam designed to go with those
lifters (Mondello lists them). I can't imagine a regrind costing much less
than a new cam at $120.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	     MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado		 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX	 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited	 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 10:59:07 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: xman W31 decoding

I would like to decode my exhaust manifolds.
Left
1 at the top
38001LH D4 (139)

Right
398704YRHD5142

They are supposed to be off of a 1970 cutlass w-31. The car has headers on it
now. are they the correct ones for a w31 350?
=======================
 Standard #1 Left hand Xman- that's tw what the LH stands for. You probably
could figure that out. Similarl.y, the other one's RH is for Right Hand. Big
Yawn. Every car made since 1964 has one unless it has the dual exhaust. There
were subtle variations, but tthis is by far the most common xman to be
seen.

Rioght hand not so common, I cannot find that number in my database. maybe the
common "#5" [similar to the large #1] at the front? Closest number the database
has is "398708, which is a '68 vintage big  block RH xman, casting ID "T" at
the front or at the branch where the 2 exit ports spliut up.

I thopught W31's were to have dual xst, in which case no, these would not be
correct. You'd need a W-Z pair. You'd want them in any event, correct or not.

sorry for the lame typos, lots of lag today, no time to correct every one.



























- --
Chris  B. Witt
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 11:58:54 -0400
From: Andy Geeting <geetinag@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu>
Subject: RE: Roller Rockers - Steel Tip Vs. Al

At 02:32 PM 10/20/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I bought the Comp Cam High Energy adjustable rocker kit. Comes with the
>studs, guide plates, roller rockers and push rods. The system installs
>easily, but the instructions are not very accurate. Someone mentioned
>about the tightening the locker nuts. I took the instructions for true
>and noticed that they needed to be tightened a little more. The
>instructions mention 1/2 turn from finger tight but now that I read, I
>think 3/4 to 1 turn may be required. A little expensive but should have
>done this long ago. When you use a performance cam there's no way the
>stock pushrods are going to line up. This kit will help. 
>
>I have a question, how did you guys, the ones that installed these kits
>adjust the rockers for the first time. I've experienced that adjusting
>them while running is the best but how do you stop the oil from getting
>everywhere? I'm thinking of getting another pair of rocker covers and
>cutting a large slot on top. This way no oil gets out . Any comments...?
>     
>Fernando Proietto
>Systems Analyst - Informatics
>
>Environment Canada
>Ontario Region - Monitoring & Systems Branch
>4905 Dufferin St. 
>Downsview, Ontario
>M3H 5T4
>
>> ----------
>> From: 	AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com[SMTP:AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com]
>> Sent: 	Saturday, October 18, 1997 10:37 AM
>> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: 	Re: Roller Rockers - Steel Tip Vs. Al 
>> 
>> I went with the Crane set up it is a steel roller rocker, screw in
>> studs and
>> guide plates,also cam with push rods.I believe It was under $200 and
>> no
>> machining was necc.
>> 
>I think I've seen some where they make litle metal clips that attach to
the rocker arms (or some place) that help deflect oil away from you. Not
sure how well they would keep the oil in the engine. Seems to me the your
idea about the rocker covers would probably be the best.

Andy Geeting

'87 Cutlass Supreme
'88 Cutlass Supreme Classic Brougham
'74 Delta 88 convertible
'78 Caprice wagon
'36 Plymouthh coupe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 12:14:28 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: roller cams

Roller lifters in gas motors: anyone ever come up with more info on ~that~
possi bility?  Could be a future FAQ topic if someone finds out...
==========================

Welll.... I have the stuff, if somebody wants to bankroll it, I will do it. I
have the block, lifters, a 307 roller cam. It'd be a 425 with BV B or C heads.
I'd need a gasket set, about $100, and about $100 for dyno time. I'd buy the
machine work, rings, bearings, and do the assembly work. Then the world would
have a benchmamrk. One can presume that with a Smith or JM high-lift roller
cam, the power output would up accordingly, but at $300 for just the cam, the
idea was to see what could be done with just cheap available parts.

- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 12:16:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: tstat trouble?

Pull the thermostat and see if it's rusted.  It's generally pretty easy to do,
r ight where the top radiator hose goes in the engine block.  There is usually
an e nclosure with a couple bolts holding it in.
- - -tc
==============
My point of view is: if there's ANY doubt, just replace it. If you have it all
apart anyhow, replace it. Don't just inspect it. Spend the $5, I dare ya.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 11:19:17 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Is it just me...

Well, Olds has the "Baby Northstar", the 4.0 DOHC V8, and it is 
screaming to be dropped in something worthy.  Make a 98 Toro, Aurora 
powered, 4T80E, FE3, Black on black, black interior.  If Caddy keeps 
the Eldo, there is the Toro platform.  The engine is proven there, 
then add the Caddy experimental supercharger, and make a 350-400 hp 
front drive V8.  The 4.6L Cad Northstar is said to make 400 with the 
supercharger.  Sorry, no turbo's, emissions is canning them, catalytic 
converter doesn't light off fast enough for cold fast driveaway 
emissions.  Bummer, I like turbo's, but if we were dreaming, a twin 
turbo 4.0 DOHC V8 for a new REAR DRIVE 442.......

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 12:24:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: 350 heads => 403

403 w/ earlier 64cc heads:

Sorry I sent that twice, accidently bumped the send..  If you add 72 or earlier
350 cylinder heads, your  compression will be abound 9.5:1-10:1, it will
increase your HP considerably, though you'll probably want to add a cam that
can take adva ntage of that high compression.. if matched with an edelbrock
intake, I'm guessin g around 300 hp, though that's a really rought estimate and
depends on the parts that you use.

DrkSole
========================
Yeah, what he said.
My calculations say that unmachined 64 cc heads such as .68 to '72 350 heads
would boost the stock 403 to 9.50:1 compression. Mill the heads 0.030" and you
have just over 10:1 CRatio. This assumes 0.040" head gasket, a few other
assumptions.

This is my recommendation also. Get '72 350 heads [hard xst seats], install the
403's bigger 2.000 valves or even larger W30 2.072" valves, and limit your
expenses. That motor will kick ass w/ the appropriate cam, intake, exhaust. As
for those who doubt the ability of the 403 to handle power with its open main
webs, you micht call  a racer who uses one, such as:

Don Dagget 517-886-9295 ??
Mark or Dan Van Koevering 616-453-0497 or 956-3378 [extensive experience]
   Runs 403 to 7,000 rpm. No bottom end mods. Still OK. Better metallurgy.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 12:28:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: location in sig file

Location in sig file seems like a good idea to me, I finally got around to it.
After "does it exist" the next obvious Q's are "$?" and "where is it?"
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 09:30:08 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Subject: Re: advice on after market

Just as a cheap fyi, the besr 


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 12:32:35 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: MT => AT swap

From: GPMTRADER@aol.com
Subject: Trans replacement

Anyone know if a 4-speed can be replaced with a TH400 in a '69 442?  What has
to be changed, modified or substituted?  Who can do it...RIGHT?
gpmtrader@aol.com
======================
Yes, it can be done.
Rather a big job. You want to leave the MT pedals in place?  Just in case? I
did that on my car. You need console brackets onthe floor, a hole for the
shifter cable. Seal the firewall clutch rod hole. Lots of time consuming piddly
things.

*I* can do it... *correctly*.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 11:44:45 -0500 (CDT)
From: hitson@leadbelt.com
Subject: Nat'l Parts Depo url

 www.npdlink.com/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 11:48:17 -0500
From: Mike Schlottman <mschlott@mailhost.rsn.hp.com>
Subject: Buick SSI lookalikes

What is the difference in the Olds SSI wheels and the Buick wheels that
look just like them?  Can I use one of these wheels of a 69 Buick for a
spare and have it look correct?

Also, is the spare tire hold down for the SS wheels like a big wheel
stud and lug nut?

	mike

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 13:04:22 -0400
From: Jay Britt <jbritt@nas1.360.cdpd.net>
Subject: HEI Info in new FAQ 4.0

...just what the list needs, another #*&$% HEI question!. But here it
is.

I was reading the FAQ section on HEI installation, specifically about
finding a used unit from the junkyard. My question is, what years /
models make good donors for a used (complete) HEI?.

FYI: I will be putting it on a '67 330 4v.

Thanks,
Jay Britt
OCA#29460
'67 Cutlass Supreme

- -- 
__________________________________________________________
Jay Britt                        360° Communications  
Systems Engineer             Wireless PBX & Data Services   
(757) 687-3317              One Columbus Center, Suite 530
(757) 473-0063 Fax          Virginia Beach, Virginia 23462
mailto:jbritt@nas1.360.cdpd.net           USA
url: http://www.360.com
__________________________________________________________
This message was sent from a wireless data device using
360° Communications' CDPD Wireless Data Services.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 13:11:49 -0400
From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
Subject: RE: Olds Toronado

I ordered a 4x10 loudspeaker from them.  They said it was an exact repro of the
original.  It was not, and I had to retrofit it at some additional expense and
hassle.  Their price for the speaker was equal to that of Radio Shack's and
appeared to be the exact same unit.  So I wasn't too pleased with them.  On the
other hand their prices appeared to be reasonable and the product did come
promptly.  I wouldn't consider them real knowledgeable Olds people.

>I have found USA Parts Supply in Manassas, VA, on the net, they seem to have an
extensive collection of hard to find parts.  Has anyone had any experience
with them as a supplier?

Todd Morris
71 442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 13:04:46 EDT
From: CRuper1 <CRuper1@aol.com>
Subject: Re: header conversion

In a message dated 97-10-21 01:28:35 EDT, you write:

<< 
 I am currently in the process of putting a 69' 455 into a mid 80's
 cutlass. My question is does anyone know where I can buy a set of headers
 that will fit? 
 
 Ben Cook
 
  >>
Oh yeah, one thing I forgot to respond to.  There are headers made for this
applicatioin, but from what I hear, it decreases your turning radius (and
takes up alot of room).  Myself, I'm opting for stock exhaust manifold through
dual exhaust (2 1/2 in pipes).  That'll be an easy set-up to dea with, and not
cause problems like headers will.

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 13:02:30 EDT
From: CRuper1 <CRuper1@aol.com>
Subject: Re: header conversion

In a message dated 97-10-21 01:28:35 EDT, you write:

<< 
 I am currently in the process of putting a 69' 455 into a mid 80's
 cutlass. My question is does anyone know where I can buy a set of headers
 that will fit? 
 
 Ben Cook
 
  >>
There are several people on this list who have done this swap (I'm in the
process of doing it myself).  It is a pretty basic, straight forward swap
providing that old motor is like a 260, or 307 (it gets a little more
complicated if it has a Chevy moor in it), but there are some things to make
sure of, otherwise it's a bolt-in thing.  As far as pulleys, etc on the front
of the motor, make sure you use them from one, or the other (either use all
the stuff from the original motor, etc.).  Also, how's that tranny doing these
days?  Have any idea what trans is actually in the car?  Depending on what
trans you have, will determine what else you may have to do (either now, or in
the future...).

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 13:54:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: Benjamin Ray Cook <bc3273@cs.cs.appstate.edu>
Subject: Re: header conversion

I have already swapped a 455 into a 79 olds so I know what has to be done
to swap. I am looking at making a little over 700hp and adding a 300 hp
nitrous kit so I don't think manifolds would be the way to go with mine. I
fabricated some headers for the 78 but am looking for some that might look
a little better :) Thanks for your help.

Ben

On Tue, 21 Oct 1997, CRuper1 wrote:

> In a message dated 97-10-21 01:28:35 EDT, you write:
> 
> << 
>  I am currently in the process of putting a 69' 455 into a mid 80's
>  cutlass. My question is does anyone know where I can buy a set of headers
>  that will fit? 
>  
>  Ben Cook
>  
>   >>
> There are several people on this list who have done this swap (I'm in the
> process of doing it myself).  It is a pretty basic, straight forward swap
> providing that old motor is like a 260, or 307 (it gets a little more
> complicated if it has a Chevy moor in it), but there are some things to make
> sure of, otherwise it's a bolt-in thing.  As far as pulleys, etc on the front
> of the motor, make sure you use them from one, or the other (either use all
> the stuff from the original motor, etc.).  Also, how's that tranny doing these
> days?  Have any idea what trans is actually in the car?  Depending on what
> trans you have, will determine what else you may have to do (either now, or in
> the future...).
> 
> Chris Ruper
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 13:55:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: Benjamin Ray Cook <bc3273@cs.cs.appstate.edu>
Subject: Re: header conversion

Oh yeah the trans is a TCI turbo 350 with a manual valve body. I took it
out of the 78, which i had to make a crossmember to fit.

Ben 

On Tue, 21 Oct 1997, CRuper1 wrote:

> In a message dated 97-10-21 01:28:35 EDT, you write:
> 
> << 
>  I am currently in the process of putting a 69' 455 into a mid 80's
>  cutlass. My question is does anyone know where I can buy a set of headers
>  that will fit? 
>  
>  Ben Cook
>  
>   >>
> There are several people on this list who have done this swap (I'm in the
> process of doing it myself).  It is a pretty basic, straight forward swap
> providing that old motor is like a 260, or 307 (it gets a little more
> complicated if it has a Chevy moor in it), but there are some things to make
> sure of, otherwise it's a bolt-in thing.  As far as pulleys, etc on the front
> of the motor, make sure you use them from one, or the other (either use all
> the stuff from the original motor, etc.).  Also, how's that tranny doing these
> days?  Have any idea what trans is actually in the car?  Depending on what
> trans you have, will determine what else you may have to do (either now, or in
> the future...).
> 
> Chris Ruper
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 11:15:50 -0700
From: Dan Lacey <lacey@dsea.com>
Subject: Spindles Wanted (Again!)

To rehash an age-old thread...

I want a set of spindles from a 1970 Olds 98. This is for a disc conversion
for my 1965 98.

I have not found ANYBODY who make new parts (spindles that is. ALL the
other parts, rotors, calipers, etc. can be purchased from OEM's).

I do not know a reputable salvage yard in southern CA.

Most importantly, I do not know a reputable machine shop that could verify
that a set is within spec.

I am in Orange County.

Can anybody help me with some contacts?


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 97 13:37:38 -0500
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: Buick SSI lookalikes

What is the difference in the Olds SSI wheels and the Buick wheels that 
look just like them?  

     Well, if you put them side-by-side, you'll see that the Buick wheels 
     really don't look like SSIs.  The radial ribs are flat on the SSIs, 
     but are concave on the Buicks.  The SSIs are, in fact, identical to 
     the Chevy "Magnum 500"-style wheels (sorry, I know Magnum 500 is the 
     F*rd designation; don't know what the Chevy code is).  Note that 
     SSIs (and, I assume, their Chevy counterparts) come in several 
     varieties.  There are the 66-69 all-chrome SSIs, which will not 
     clear disc brakes, and the 70-71 painted SSIs which use the trim 
     ring.  These will clear discs.  I seem to recall an interim hybrid 
     version as well, which I am sure someone on the list will add.
     
     There are also aftermarket SSI clones available (for serious $$) 
     which are available painted or chrome and in sizes up to 15x10.  I 
     just saw these in the latest Coker catalog that came with the Oct 
     Hemmings.  Note that they were listed as Chevy wheels, but since you 
     have to buy the center caps separately anyway, they can also be 
     SSIs.

Can I use one of these wheels of a 69 Buick for a spare and have it look 
correct?

     Will it bolt up?  Yes
     Will it look correct?  No
     (I'm assuming here that this 69 Buick _has_ the original chrome 
     Buick wheels, and this isn't the case of someone has put Magnum 500s 
     on the car at some time in the past)
     
Also, is the spare tire hold down for the SS wheels like a big wheel 
stud and lug nut?
     
     Actually, it is more like a bent piece of steel rod which hooks into a 
     loop spotwelded to the trunk floor and which has the other end 
     threaded.  The retaining nut looks something like a lug nut, but the 
     internal tread is much smaller in diameter to mate with this rod.
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30
        mike
     

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 97 13:55:32 -0500
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re[2]: real '72 442

.."Unless it's a W-30?"  Again. Hmmm.  I thought the W-30 was another 
option which enhanced the '72 W-29 option.

     You are correct, Mike, but the original thread asked if there was 
     some way to tell if a 72 442 was "real" (presumably without the 
     benefit of the build sheet).  The original responder correctly 
     pointed out the "X" code in the VIN.  Unfortunately, I think the 
     multiple replies to this thread have gotten us sort of off track.

Of the 72 W-30's I've seen, they all had "Cutlass" on the glovebox.

     Yup, that's correct.  'Course, the first thing I did when I got my 
     72 years ago was to run down to the dealer and get a 70-71 "442" 
     glovebox emblem.  The holes line right up.

     Actually, while we're at this, let's not get too caught up in the "my 
     68-71 442 is 'real' and your earlier/later one is not".  Come on...all 
     GM did was mix and match parts in a given body shell (witness the 336- 
     body plates on the 68-69 4400 series).  Sure, documentation is 
     important if you are attempting to promote the car based on its 
     originality.  Just keep in mind that the factory did a lot of screwy 
     things over the years, which leaves us a lot to talk about (sort of 
     like stamp collectors putting a premium on the mistakes).
     
     Just my opinion and food for some list traffic...  ;-)
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30
     

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 14:28:37 -0400
From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
Subject: RE: Roller Rockers - Steel Tip Vs. Al

The kit that I got from Summit (Comp Cams) included detailed instructions
to make sure the lifter is at base circle on the cam.  Then you tighten the
nut, in Dick Miller's view, a full revolution for Olds engines.  I can get
the directions later at home if you need them and post.  If your intake
manifold is off you could just eyeball the lifter to see whether its on
base circle. The key is that the lifter be at or very close to base circle.
BTW, Mondello suggests tightening 1 and a half turns.  Judging by the
additional tension on the nut I thought that was excessive and have not had
problems with tightening them just one turn.  Tightening with the engine
running sounds like a big mess, plus I don't think you could get an accurate
starting point, which should be just as the pushrod gets some resistance to
being twisted.

Another suggestion, the studs should go in at 20 lbs, not 25, per the Comp
Cams helpline.  He said 25 is just too much for those little guys.  Lastly,
take the time to make sure the pushrods are not offcenter such that they
push the rocker arm sideways.  The rocker arm should line up straight and
even on the valve tip head.  You may need to adjust the guideplates to allow
the pushrod to do this.

>I have a question, how did you guys, the ones that installed these kits
>adjust the rockers for the first time. I've experienced that adjusting
>them while running is the best but how do you stop the oil from getting
>everywhere? I'm thinking of getting another pair of rocker covers and
>cutting a large slot on top. This way no oil gets out . Any comments...?

Todd Morris
71 442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 13:26:51 -0500
From: "babbott@pdnt.com" <babbott@pdnt.com>
Subject: Diesel roller lifters

Mondello says that the diesel roller lifters are too heavy for performance
use 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 14:10:17 -0500
From: "David Brown (the Olds FAQ compiler)" <dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: Oil Plug size, 72 to 75 455 (9/16 to 7/8)

No, I know of 2 74's and over 5 75's and 76's, 455's and 350's, all of
which take a 9/16 socket to drop the oil , and they are all OLDS
engines, this I am very sure of!  Maybe the oil plug doesn't take a
standard size (whatever they had at the plant in the closest pile,
maybe?)  Something to find out, though, I propose

David Brown (the Olds FAQ compiler) wrote:
> ----------
> My '77 takes a 7/8" socket. I think all Olds V-8 oil pans use a 7/8"
> socket. Maybe the '75 has an aftermarket plug? Some sort of magnetic
> plug? Could it be that the '75 has a Pontiac 400 in it (that was used > in 1975 88's and 98's, I beleive).

- -------------Self Promo V3.0--------------------------
Eric Aksomitis  http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi
mailto:big_olds@hotmail.com   See it all, click above
- ------------------------------------------------------
I learn something new everyday :) ! Yeah, maybe they just put in
anything they had laying around. Would that make some of those oil pans
rare? Umm, never mind!
- -- 
David Brown     Mailto:dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.0 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 14:04:44 -0500
From: steven@purplemonkey.com (Steven Saraceno)
Subject: Quadrajet

Can anyone tell me if I can purchase only the gasket for my '70 4bl
quadrajet.  The one in the front where the fuel filter goes.  It must be
about an inch in diameter.  I assume I can use any gasket that is for a
fuel line that is the approximate size.

Steven

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 14:20:43 -0500
From: "David Brown (the Olds FAQ compiler)" <dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: '78 Delta: Shot Myself in the Foot

To the rad shop later this week I fear; there goes the $20 
worth of antifreeze I just installed too. :(

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada
- ----------
I just fixed the side tank of a radiator, and I used a disposable fine
paint strainer/funnel (placed in a plastic funnel) to filter the
coolant. You could some other type of cloth as well. And for those pesky
little drops of trans oil in the drain bucket, dip a clean part of a
crumpled paper towel onto them. They get sucked up. Repeat til they are
gone. Fortunately, they float nicely.
- -- 
David Brown     Mailto:dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.0 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 13:05:13 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Diesel roller lifters

babbott@pdnt.com wrote:
> 
> Mondello says that the diesel roller lifters are too heavy for
> performance
> use

But you can use ~his~ version, virtually identical, except for a coat of
paint, for $48.75 a piece......  :)

I guess weight would be a valid concern...  Anyone know if they're the
same as the 307's yet???


             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
             Box 524               | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Sidney, Montana 59270 | http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             "TRBO LVR" (Maybe???:)| '83 Turbo Regal
               The Heartbeat of America...  In my mirror

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 14:27:35 -0500
From: "David Brown (the Olds FAQ compiler)" <dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: Emissions...

I live in Maryland too and have a 1972 Cutlass. The engine is a 2bbl 350
with 46,000 miles, and these were the numbers:

Hydrocarbons: 204 ppm, State standard 500 ppm
Carbon Monoxide: 0.00 pct, State standard 6.00 pct
Oxides of Nitrogen: n/a, n/a
Carbon Dioxide: 14.5 pct, State standard 6.0 pct

Charles Sullivan
- ----------
Those are pretty good numbers. The Hydrocarbons are a little high, but
reasonable. A tuneup, some idle adjustment (I'm assumming these numbers
are the slow idle test), and maybe HEI could bring the HC down even
more. But its fine as is.
- -- 
David Brown     Mailto:dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.0 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 15:17:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: DEOVIVERE@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds Toronado

In a message dated 97-10-21 04:54:18 EDT, you write:

<< have found USA Parts Supply in Manassas, VA, on the net, they seem to have
an 
 extensive collection of hard to find parts.  Has anyone had any experience 
 with them as a supplier? >>


They are reliable, if a tiny bit slow.  It is kind of a small joint.

Tom Simmons

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 15:17:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: GPMTRADER@aol.com
Subject: Re: turbo 400 parts needed

I can't help you with parts but am in the same situation of considering to
convert a '69 442 W-30 from 4-preed to automatic.

What parts are required, how involved and expensive is it, and are dodoing
the work yoursel?

For any tech or labor assistance, try Superscars Unlimited, 503-244-8249.
 They specialize in Olds and 442s.  

Anybody out there know of any other restoration / speed shops specializing in
442s?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 11:20:05 -0400
From: lawrencr@kostabi.gdls.com (Robert Lawrence)
Subject: rear speaker question

>Asking about a 64 dynamic, where there is a rear speaker grill between the
>upper part of the seats.  Curiosity, not wanting to pull out the seats to
>get to the speaker, but is there any other way to get to that speaker, and
>what size speaker is it?
>

I have a '70 98 convertible with the speaker there.  I have to pull
the seat.  It's only two bolts, so it's not a big deal.  The speaker
is a 6x9.  There isn't a lot of room.  I tried to put a aftermarket
speaker there, but there wasn't room for the magnet.

Your '64 may be different...

- --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Robert Lawrence   | 1970 Oldsmobile 98 Convertible               .^.
lawrencr@gdls.com |  _________,~--,___________\____________     /9|8\
(810) 825-5129    |  |                |~    |        ___   |    \}|{/
Sterling Hts., MI |  =------(-o-)-------------------( o )--=      v

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 08:23:19 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Insuring lots of cars (Was: new Olds?)

While paying bills last night, including my insurance premium, I was
thinking about exactly this.  Charley immediately came to mind, and I had
to wonder how he managed insurance for all of his cars.  Does Montana
require insurance?  Those of you in states that do, and who have many cars
(especially not show cars), how do you manage it?  Is there some type of
policy where you can insure yourself (the driver) for any car you may
drive?

I thought it was an outrage that they raised my insurance costs when adding
my '78 Cutlass beater.  Cheapest way to do it was as a "pleasure vehicle".
It doesn't have full coverage, I can only drive one car at a time, and when
I'm driving that I'm obviously _not_ driving my '84 H/O which is a more
expensive car with full coverage.  They should be thanking me and
_lowering_ my rates.  Unfortunately, I think I'd have better luck
explaining the theory of relativity to my cats than explaining this to the
insurance company.

Charley Buehner wrote:

> > ya but wouldn't you like to tool around in a brand new aurora?????
> > i know i would!!!!!!
>
> I'd love to run around in that new Intrigue, too.  Sweet cars!  But,
> even if I ~could~ shell out even the $15K for a strip-down new car, I'd
> have trouble justifying the insurance and tags on one.  Spendy!  It

- --
Tom Lentz, tlentz@ior.com                          '84 Hurst/Olds
http://www.ior.com/~tlentz                         '78 Cutlass Supreme
Network Admin, CPM Corp, Spokane, WA.              '78 Chev 1/2ton (Olds
350)

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #916
********************************

