
oldsmobile-digest       Sunday, December 7 1997       Volume 01 : Number 994



Re: 90 Calais knockin' bad
Re: Parts Question from New Member
Lokar Linkage
UNBOUNCE: E4MC Carb for 80's 307
UNBOUNCE: Looking for 76 98 4dr
stolen ideas
proper responses to Q's
69cc heads
runaway engine
Re: Glove box Owner's Manual
Re: TH200R-4 durability, shifting question and gear ratios.
Re: H-Pipe
Re: sounds
RE: POR 15
Re: new problems, need HELP!
TH200R-4 trans question again
Re: stolen ideas
Re: TH200R-4 trans question again
Re: Triple postings SORRY!
RE: EGR is not A.I.R. (was: olds help, ?'s, info, goodies
RE: new problems, need HELP!
Engine/Heads Paint
Re: EGR is not A.I.R. (was: olds help, ?'s, info, goodies
Re: Glove box Owner's Manual
RE: new problems, need HELP!
Re: H-Pipe
RE: EGR is not A.I.R. (was: olds help, ?'s, info, goodies
RE: Engine/Heads Paint
Re: Parts Question from New Member
Re: new problems, need HELP! (LONG)
Re: stolen ideas
Re: Parts Question from New Member
Not enuf tyme
Re: proper responses to Q's
Re: new problems, need HELP!
Re: new problems, need HELP!
425 4bbl and intake
Re: Painting
Re: 1970 Bucket Seats
Re: Painting
Restore 1965 Olds dynamic 88
Re: Painting
Re: Transmission Models/Ratios
Re: 425 4bbl and intake
Advice on pricing
Re: Parts Question from New Member
Re: proper responses to Q's
Re: PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale 
Apology
Re: Restore 1965 Olds dynamic 88
Re: runaway engine
Re: sounds
RE: 1977 oldsmobile omega 305 v8 2bbl
RE: Engine/Heads Paint
Re: 425 4bbl and intake

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 06 Dec 1997 23:01:39 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: 90 Calais knockin' bad

Crown14 wrote:
> 
> Here I am agian asking another question.  The 1990 Cutlass Calais has the
> Pontiac 4cyl engine and it knocks a lot of the time.  (Regularly up hills, but
> not all the time.  Sometimes it knocks no matter what you are doing.)  

I had problems with both my Mustang II with the 4Cyl, and my Cutlass
with the 307.  The Mustang used to knock, and ping REAL bad for a while,
anytime it had ANY type of power draw.  The Cutlass would only do it
when I tromped on the gas...

I cleared up BOTH real easy...  I jumped up a notch on the gas, and
where I got it...  I only run 93 outta Amaco, or Hess..  I've had no
problems to report...

Come to think of it, my dad's 88 Skyhawk with the 2.0 does the same
thing when you don't put BP 89 (Mid level) in it...  It doesn't like 93
and runs to prove it...  <G>  But the 87 makes it sound terrible, and it
will buck.

- -- 
             		    Jerry Christopher
     ___        HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
 ___/.o \__, 	     1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
_=O------O=__________It ain't my father's Oldsmobile_______

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 6 Dec 1997 23:17:01 EST
From: DR OLDS350 <DROLDS350@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Parts Question from New Member

Joseph-
The seat covers for a 72 are different then the 70. The 70 has the V shaped
pigskin inserts with 6 buttons, the 72 has wide horizontal pleats and buttons,
8 on the top. The console in a 72 is the same as a 70, and if you have to
paint it you can purchase paint from Trak Auto. The dash is the same except
for the woodgrain. You would want to go with the burlwood pattern. The
complete 70 woodgrain dash kit will run you 69.00 if you get it from YearOne.
The woodgrain for the console is around 17.00. The bucket seat foam is a
little different then the 72. The seat springs are the same. The door panels
are different. I hope that this helps!! I am doing a restoration on a 70
Rallye 350 and I just ripped all of the seats out today and took the covers
off of them. It was pretty easy to take the old seat covers off.

Jim / DROLDS350@aol.com
1970 Cutlass W31
1970 Rallye 350
Check out my web page at:
http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html
http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/w31pictures.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 6 Dec 1997 17:37:43 EST
From: CCRR12 <CCRR12@aol.com>
Subject: Lokar Linkage

57 J/2 Tri-Power

Question?

Has anyone updated their 50's era throttle or kick-down linkage using cable
systems (like Lokar) to replace the old rods and lever system. On this rebuild
I am planning to replace the original sytem for flexibility and accessability.
I 
would like to retain the original configuaration from the pedal to the upper
firewall bracket. Also I would like to replace the old kickdown linkage
completely,allowing for fine tuning the adjustment. I expect to have to modify
another application's bracket
for the transmission connection, possibly attaching a bracket using front left
drain
pan bolts. Any suggestions or horror stories?  I'm all ears.

By the way, for those out there who love to bash other cars, I plead guilty.
Twenty
years ago I had a bumper sticker custom made for my car and gave the rest away
to my friends and car show associates. It is kind of faded now but it still
reads:
" Your Daddy Bought Yours, I BUILT MINE"  That was my response to braggarts
driving new plastic cars with 'screaming chicken' decals on the hood.

Thanks in advance.

Randy in Okla
57 88 J/2
49 F-1

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 00:34:07 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: E4MC Carb for 80's 307

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Thomas & Jodie Martin <jmartin@NetwurX.net>
Subject: E4MC Carb for 80's 307

I found out today why I could not adjust my TPS easily.  The airhorn and
floatbowl are warped due to overtorquing of the carb to intake bolts.  I do
not know if I did or the previous owner, I don't think I did, but the previous
owner, my dad, did have an assembly problem where something got pinched.  Does
anyone have one that they would be willing to part with?  

I would prefer a 85, but probably any from 83-90 would be fine.  (I do not
know what the 81-82's were like)  If it from another CCC engine that is fine,
as long as it has the straight fuel inlet, not like the Ch#vy's.

If  anyone has any advice, please let me know.  I'm sure there are plenty of
people out there who have ditched the CCC.  I do not mind if it needs to be
rebuilt.   

Please email me privately so we don't take up too much bandwidth.  

Thanks!
Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 00:35:09 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Looking for 76 98 4dr

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Thomas & Jodie Martin <jmartin@NetwurX.net>
Subject: Looking for 76 98 4dr

I am starting to look around for a decent shape 76 98.  I want a nice car for
highway cruising on trips.  It is either a big land yacht or a minivan,
someone please help!!!  I have 2 kids now, and my wife wants 1 more.  I also
want a car that can tow easily if I want.  The rated towing capacity of a 76
Delta 88 and 98 is 7000 lbs with the towing package.  Works for me!

I had a 76 Delta 88 Royale, and miss it, and would like to find a nice 98 from
the 1976 year.  I am not concerned if the engine runs, but I do want the 455
there.  In 76 the EPA rated the 455 in the Delta 98 and Toro at 12 city and 18
highway.  That is not too bad in my book.  

If anyone has one that they would be willing to part with in the next year or
so, please let me know.

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 6 Dec 1997 23:37:19 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: stolen ideas

Sorry Chris, but I remember something like this offered for sale in
     those small ads in the back of Hot Rod in the 60s!  There really is
     nothing new under the sun...

     They also had the windshield washer reservoir that you could mount in
     the trunk and use to direct water at the back wheels to help with
     burnouts...

     Joe Padavano
===========
Dammit, another one of my brilliant schemes stolen out from under me, before I
thought of it even!

Do you add bleach to the water for smokier burnouts?
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 6 Dec 1997 23:34:49 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: proper responses to Q's

"You gotta four-fourty-two in that?" I was asked as
my 70 Cutlass S idled at a 7-11 one day.....
===============
OK, even in the light of this, I will maintain that there is no such thing as a
stupid question; it's an.... opportunity to enlighten, yeah, that's it!

So, what *is* the "proper" response to such a query, if, say, one hasn't all
day to extoll the virtues of the machine. One wants to leave the impression of
culture, right?

Maybe... [for some, the cid may have to be adjusted...]

"Oh, no, this one has only a 400."

"Nope, she's bored out to a 455 now!"

"Shoot, she's *all* four fourty two, thru-n-thru!"

"Naw, "just" a 330..."

"Aw, you KNOW it, man!"

"Is there any other kind [of engine]?"

"No, but it does have the W-[insert appropriate W-code(s)] option(s)."

"I dunno, I never looked. [, wanna see if you can keep up...?]"

"It *must* be, 'cause it's pretty powerful, man!"
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 6 Dec 1997 23:35:59 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: 69cc heads

well, im running a '72 350 with #7 heads.  (these are the heads with hardened
valve guides.)  um, seems like they are 69cc heads, but dont hold me to that.
============
Well, I think this is in regards to a  Q about *455* heads- getting them down
to 69cc is another matter.

btw, them's SEATS that's hardened, not guides.

- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 6 Dec 1997 23:39:35 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: runaway engine

At 5am there is not too
much going on in the parking lot, so I had room.  I was approaching
50mph and "flicking" the gas pedal didn't do anything. (I thought maybe
the linkage got stuck).  Running out of room, I ended up shifing into
Nutral and the car reved up to about 5500 rpms, then finally it just
went away and returned to normal idle.
==================
At the risk of offending someone by implying that they are... shall we say, not
thinking clearly at the time?

Might I suggest that turning the key OFF is the optimal way to control a
runaway motor. As you see, shifting to N only leaves you with NO control over
the motor at all. You know, the ignition switch, that thing you almost always
kill the motor with...

- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 06 Dec 1997 23:47:45 -0500
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Glove box Owner's Manual

Robert Schinkel wrote:

> 2. Is a pinkish color that looks like woodgrain has small boxes in lower
> center first one read "GM" second one reads "Important Operating Safety and
> Maintenance Instructions" and the third box read "1970 OLDSMOBILE" Below
> the boxes is written in small black letters"4-4-2 - CUTLASS SUPREME
> -CUTLASS - F-85 - STATION WAGONS"

Is there any indication inside this manual that it might be Canadian? 
The GM logo is what is making me think this.  GM doesn't have a bunch of
different divisions in Canada, they just have GM of Canada.  I'm willing
to be it's a Canadian manual.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

Is it true that cannibals don't eat clowns because they taste funny?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 06 Dec 1997 23:58:16 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Re: TH200R-4 durability, shifting question and gear ratios.

>         The third question is if anyone knows, what are the gear ratios of the
> TH200R4. Also, if you know, what are the ratios of TH250, 350, 400 trans (I
> And also, if you know, what are the gear ratios of the TH700R4, as I am

        Igor, you might wanna stop by my friend's page at this address:
                    http://www.iaw.on.ca/~aubertin/88mgt/misc/tranny.htm
        He's spend many sleepless nights working on this page and this particular
part has transmission gear ratios/torque ratings for any different transmissions.
I know it's got the 200R4 and the 350 and 400, I think it's got the 700 too, it's
been a bit since I"ve been there, I forget at the moment.  It should be able to
help ya out, though.
- --
Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
Rat-Powered '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
mailto:lee@mergetel.com
Welland, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 00:18:21 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Re: H-Pipe

> minute, the "louder" it seems, but the better it flows.  With the
> H-pipe, it will equalize these pulses, to some degree, and therefore
> quiet the whole system down, compared to the same exhaust without the
> H-pipe, yet not effecting flow, and hence with a better balanced
> exhaust, better low end torque output.  That's the theory anyway.
> X-type crossover systems work on this principle too, siamesing for a few
> inches under the car.

        Yea, Mike...I heard the X-pipes work even better, which the design would make
that conclusion obvious since it's not as hard for the gasses to go to either side,
but I don't wanna spend that much money right now on my exhaust (I'll go with the
3-chamber Flo-masters (forget the spelling) but they'll, believe it or not, be the
most expensive part to the exhaust system - headers ran me $160 Cdn funds, the
Flo-masters will be like $90/ea!  Not going with tails yet - maybe if I deem the
setup to be too loud to stand.  I ran turn-downs on the 403 for the past year without
trouble from the police, so I don't think it'll be too much of a problem - I hope.
- --
Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
Rat-Powered '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
mailto:lee@mergetel.com
Welland, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 00:19:44 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Re: sounds

> > > how bout 4 starters the 1st few lines of the Beach boys "409" I have the c/d
> You wonder what the song would be like if they had waited a couple more
> years to record it.......
>
> "Well, I saved my pennies and my dollars too,
> Before I knew that my dream would come true,
> When I would buy a brand new 442......"
>
> "My 4-barrel, 4-speed, dual exhaust, 442......"
>
> Just a thought...

        Hmm....ya know, I think we might have something here, folks!!  Mike, I'll
have my people call your people....we'll do lunch!  =B)
- --
Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
Rat-Powered '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
mailto:lee@mergetel.com
Welland, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 97 05:29:48 UT
From: "Peter Slisz" <PV7793@classic.msn.com>
Subject: RE: POR 15

Use nail polish remover to clean your fingers and fingernails.  Read this 
somewhere.

- ----------
From: 	oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca on behalf of Kerr, Brian (R)
Sent: 	Friday, December 05, 1997 10:54 PM
To: 	'Olds List'
Subject: 	Re: POR 15



My experience with POR 15:


2 weeks ago I applied POR 15 to the floor pan, front cowl area,  inside and 
outside firewall,inside of the dash, and the front edge of the dash where 
the windshield seals (windshield is out). Previously during the day, I had 
sandblasted from the seat back, floor pan, inside and outside of dash and 
firewall, front cowl area, and part way under the front of the floor pans. 
everytning that did not get POR 15, ws painted with BASF black epoxy primer. 
I sprayed the POR 15 unthinned at about 30 PSI. It came out very slow, and 
 looked like a pebbled finish, but 10 minutes later, it had flowed out to a 
very smooth, glossy finish. Because of the low pressure and thick paint, 
there was basically no misting of the paint. I finished spraying at about 
midnight Saturday, and when I came back at 5:30 am, the POR 15 had dried to 
a nearly rockhard finish. I had planned on appying the primer over top while 
it was still tacky, but 5 1/2 hours in an unheated shop and it was hard!, 
(it had been snowing most of the day Saturday, with about 35 F temps and 100 
% humidity) The base of the winshield and top of the cowl got scrubbed with 
a Scotch brite pad and reducer to etch it and everything else got the coat 
of epoxy primer (after I turned the heat up). On one section of the firewall 
where it was nice and glossy, I used a scotch brite pad to try and scuff the 
gloss off, and it was so hard that with full pressure on the pad under one 
finger, I could barely mark the finish. As I intend to put a semi gloss on 
the firewall, I will have to sand the entire fire wall with 600 grit before 
applying the top coat. I used 3/4 of a quart to cover this area with as 
heavy a coat as I could put on.

     What really impressed me was the flexibility of this material. In a 
paper coffee cup there was a thin coating on the sides and a layer on the 
bottom about 1/16" thick. I litterally had to grip it with a pair of pliers 
to  tear the layer on the bottom.

Some of it is still on my fingernails. I guess I'll have to let it grow out 
before I get rid of it. Scrubbing my hands 'down to the pink' finally got it 
off my skin, but it looked like a case of 'bionic dishpan hands' (and it 
hurt.. sniff sniff whine..)

My feeling on this stuff.... I'm impressed. I will be doing the frame and 
parts of the underside and rad cradle with the  1/4 quart of gloss and the 1 
quart of semi-gloss that I have left.

Brian Kerr
69 Cutlass Conv

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 6 Dec 1997 23:25:30 -0600 (CST)
From: Jeremy Lloyd Elder <jelder1@bigred.unl.edu>
Subject: Re: new problems, need HELP!

In terms of your alternator a simple trick I've learned of, correct me 
if I'm wrong, but taking a screwdriver (or something metal and 
touching it to the back of your alternator (with engine running)
would give you some general notion as to its condition. An alternator 
has magnetic fields and should show attraction to metal on its 
backside.  Now I've never tried this, but I've heard of it done.

Jeremy "Squawk 'Em Off" Elder
'82 Cutlass, 455
'86 Cougar, 302

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 6 Dec 1997 22:26:49 -0700
From: "Igor" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Subject: TH200R-4 trans question again

Some of you wrote as I can evidently see in my Regancy that the TH200R4
from a early 80s cars (like the family oriented regancy) will shift at
3000rpm.  I have been shifting my TH250 and have not tried yet with the
200R4 manyally at aprox 4000rpm, depending on how I was doing in the race. 
Will this blow the tranny or can manual shifting be used to override the
governor?  Thanks.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 307(now a project car, maybe 455)
1981 98 Regancy 307
1976 Delta 88 455
1995 Intrepid 3.3L (jap crap copy, but not quite as good) 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 00:32:48 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: stolen ideas

Chris Brown Witt wrote:

> Do you add bleach to the water for smokier burnouts?

Racers run through that before burning out, but it's done to help clean
the tires as opposed to creating smoke.  Whenever I put on a torque
show, I'll either pour down dish soap and spray with water, or, if I
don't care about the pavement, I'll pour down a quart of transmission
fluid (like in the school parking lot).  It's easier on the transmission
if the ground is slippery, too...

S. Dave Ward

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 00:38:55 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: TH200R-4 trans question again

Igor wrote:
 
> Some of you wrote as I can evidently see in my Regancy that the TH200R4
> from a early 80s cars (like the family oriented regancy) will shift at
> 3000rpm.

Wait a minute....let me get this straight....when you bury your foot in
the firewall, it's only shifting at 3000rpm?  Should it not be, say,
5000rpm?  When the '85 Delta is at WOT, it's absolutely *howling* before
it shifts gears.  And there's a very slim chance I have the "OZ"
tranny...(nice thought, though).

Are you sure that it's not a typo?  If this is what the tach is telling
you, either your tach is shot, or your modulator valve in the tranny has
taken the day off....

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 00:46:24 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Re: Triple postings SORRY!

> I sent multiple messages Before AND After the banner post and the
> lampost banner message didn't show.  So, I thought it didn't go through
> and re-sent it. :(
> OK, I'm not allowed to drive my car for a month.

        Effective at the start of spring   :)
- --
Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
Rat-Powered '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
mailto:lee@mergetel.com
Welland, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 97 05:50:50 UT
From: "Peter Slisz" <PV7793@classic.msn.com>
Subject: RE: EGR is not A.I.R. (was: olds help, ?'s, info, goodies

You need a set of pickle forks, a spring compressor, cold chisel, small 
mallet, electric drill, and some combo wrenches and socket set.  Before you 
remove the tie rods, measure them and reinstall the new ones as close to the 
measurement of the old ones.  If you are going to repair the front end, buy a 
complete kit, and don't piece meal.  If you buy a complete kit, the cost is 
less.  I don't know about you, but if it's raining or snowing, and I have to 
work on a car in it, I'ld rather have a hot buttered rum and sit by the fire.  
I did my work in a garage with extra lights., and a area to lay stuff on the 
floor and match up old parts with new parts.  Since the front end is torn 
apart, replace the springs and shocks.  After you get it all done, you will 
need a front end alignment, and if you replaced the springs, after 2-3 weeks, 
you will need to re-align the front end, as the springs will set.  You can get 
parts at Kanters,  or some of the major classic parts distributors.  None of 
the outfits will have the same price, so compare, compare, compare.  After you 
get it all done, you will get a warm feeling like peeing your pants, and only 
you will know what you have done.  All kidding aside, when you get it done, 
you'll be amazed at how easy it was.

- ----------
From: 	oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca on behalf of Crown14
Sent: 	Saturday, December 06, 1997 6:48 PM
To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 	Re: EGR is not A.I.R. (was: olds help, ?'s, info, goodies

I think I have ceated a monter!  I never intended this thread to do in this
direction.  In fact, just forget the whole EGR vs. AIR business, ok?  I posted
what I thought were several other more important topics and questions.  I
thank everyone for providing some type of input, but it is far from what I
expected.

==========
To make my own rocket roadworthy agian, it needs all new tires, ball joints
and new tie rod ends too. (The steering's real loose.) I really would like to
get this fixed soon at the least cost to me.  I understand that the car has
to be aligned as the final step to all this work, but can I do the other
stuff myself?  What all is involved in replacing upper and lower ball joints
and tie rod ends?  What special tools do I need?  I know a lot more than
average for my age, but not as much as I would like to.  I was thinking about
maybe doing the tie rod ends and ball joints then letting the shop do the
tires and stuff.  Plus, the recent cold damp weather makes me think that I
will not get the time to do the ball joints myself outside. (I have no
garage.)  If I do them myself I am on a VERY limited budget.

==========
I saw the part in the FAQ about how to ID your exhaust manifolds, and I
decided to check on mine.  The FAQ says they should be (driver's side) W
402295 but mine is Y 380001LH... does that mean I have the first ones cast
from some unknown year?  I know my car did come with single exhaust but it
has duals now.

Also I checked my carb and intake numbers, and they both appear to be from
1975.  I know from the VIN that it came with a 2bbl, so I figure that whoever
converted it to a 4bbl swapped in a 75 setup.  My question is- Does this
affect the flow any?  Would converting it to a 4bbl put any more stress on
the engine if it came stock with 2bbls?  Probably not.  I've also heard that
there were two versions of the quadrajet in '75- 750 cfm and 795 cfm.  If
this is true, then how do you tell them apart?

My intake has an EGR on it, but I figure that since the '72 heads aren't set
up for an EGR valve that it did not matter.  I disconnected and plugged the
hose anyway.  I also noticed that underneath the grime, my intake and water
neck are painted bright blue (kinda metallic bright blue).  I know that some
of the BB Olds engines were painted blue, but BB intakes should be quite a
bit wider than SB ones, so I am wondering what this intake came off of.


==========
After my car warms up, some blue smoke eminates from the pipes (mostly the
driver's side one).  I know that somehow it is burning oil, but it was never
that bad before.  Now, when I got the car, the hose from the breather cap to
the air cleaner was a piece of garden hose.  I tossed it, thinking that it
was no better than nothing.  All the recent talk about draft tubes and PCV
systems makes me wonder did the removal of this tube affect the blowby in
this side of the engine.  Also, when I changed the plugs, the one from
cylinder #5 had some burnt oil deposits.  Could my valve seals be gone,
causing the burning of oil in cyl #5? If they are too complicated to replace,
I will just keep putting new oil in until rebuild time.  I replaced that old
garden hose and that did not help.  I also have replaced the PCV vlve and the
breather element.

==========
One last question, why would my car have a driveshaft from '70?  It looks to
have come from a junkyard because it says "70 OLDS" in yellow paint.  Also, I
cannot find the stamped letter code on my axle.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 97 05:54:32 UT
From: "Peter Slisz" <PV7793@classic.msn.com>
Subject: RE: new problems, need HELP!

buy a cheap 12volt light tester, hold it on the red wire, and have someone rev 
the engine.  If the alt is working, you'll have to go buy a new bulb to put 
the tester back in working condition.

- ----------
From: 	oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca on behalf of Crown14
Sent: 	Saturday, December 06, 1997 6:48 PM
To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 	new problems, need HELP!

Help!  My power steering pump is leaking!  What are some common problems with
power steering pumps that may cause it to leak?

Also, I have to jump start my car to get it to run.  I think the alt is
probably bad, so how do I test it?  From what my literature says, it is the
integral regulator type, but that can't be right because it is a '72 Cutlass
and the integral reg type were not used on Cutlasses untill 73. (but it says
442's used them starting in '70) Anyway, I see a regulator on the firewall and
it looks brand new.  Also, the alt has 1 plug and one red wire out the back.

Thanks,

Joel
72 Cutlass S
350 4v  TH350

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 06 Dec 1997 22:04:13 -0800
From: Chris & Robin Miller <cya442@mindspring.com>
Subject: Engine/Heads Paint

Has anyone found a good paint that doesn't burn off of the heads next to
the exhaust ports?

Chris Miller
'68 442
cya442@mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 00:59:23 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: EGR is not A.I.R. (was: olds help, ?'s, info, goodies

Peter Slisz wrote:
> 
> You need a set of pickle forks, a spring compressor, cold chisel, small
> mallet, electric drill, and some combo wrenches, socket set...

With a Big Mac, large fries, and a dozen brown bottles of pop...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 01:08:16 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: Glove box Owner's Manual

- ----------
> From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Glove box Owner's Manual
> Date: Saturday, December 06, 1997 11:47 PM
> 
> Is there any indication inside this manual that it might be Canadian? 
> The GM logo is what is making me think this.  GM doesn't have a bunch of
> different divisions in Canada, they just have GM of Canada.  I'm willing
> to be it's a Canadian manual.
> 

You are right Paul.  It never occured to me to look in the cover of a
little booklet to see the copy right & address

Thanks 

Bob

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 97 06:35:42 UT
From: "Peter Slisz" <PV7793@classic.msn.com>
Subject: RE: new problems, need HELP!

If you ground out the hot lead on the alternator with the engine running, if 
the alternator wasn't bad before, it will be after you ground it out.

- ----------
From: 	oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca on behalf of Jeremy Lloyd Elder
Sent: 	Saturday, December 06, 1997 9:25 PM
To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 	Re: new problems, need HELP!

In terms of your alternator a simple trick I've learned of, correct me 
if I'm wrong, but taking a screwdriver (or something metal and 
touching it to the back of your alternator (with engine running)
would give you some general notion as to its condition. An alternator 
has magnetic fields and should show attraction to metal on its 
backside.  Now I've never tried this, but I've heard of it done.

Jeremy "Squawk 'Em Off" Elder
'82 Cutlass, 455
'86 Cougar, 302

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 01:34:50 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Re: H-Pipe

> The H-Pipe you mention is what is called an equilizer by muffler shops.
> Put one on my '67 C/S and it gave it enough back pressure through straight
> 2" dual's that it ran quicker in the quarter mile.

        Yea...I've heard it called an "equilizer" too.  I'm going to be going
with 2½" pipes, but I think the extra cubes will justify it.

> P.S.  Have found the guy who hit it too - 97% sure its him & I've got a way
> for the cops to get involved and......investigate him.  That ought to be
> interesting.  I'm happy today!

        That's always a good thing!
- --
Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
Rat-Powered '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
mailto:lee@mergetel.com
Welland, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 97 06:37:06 UT
From: "Peter Slisz" <PV7793@classic.msn.com>
Subject: RE: EGR is not A.I.R. (was: olds help, ?'s, info, goodies

and don't forget the napkin.

- ----------
From: 	oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca on behalf of Dave Ward
Sent: 	Saturday, December 06, 1997 9:59 PM
To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 	Re: EGR is not A.I.R. (was: olds help, ?'s, info, goodies

Peter Slisz wrote:
> 
> You need a set of pickle forks, a spring compressor, cold chisel, small
> mallet, electric drill, and some combo wrenches, socket set...

With a Big Mac, large fries, and a dozen brown bottles of pop...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 97 06:37:34 UT
From: "Peter Slisz" <PV7793@classic.msn.com>
Subject: RE: Engine/Heads Paint

POR 15

- ----------
From: 	oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca on behalf of Chris & Robin Miller
Sent: 	Saturday, December 06, 1997 10:04 PM
To: 	Olds E-mail
Subject: 	Engine/Heads Paint

Has anyone found a good paint that doesn't burn off of the heads next to
the exhaust ports?

Chris Miller
'68 442
cya442@mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 01:46:26 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Re: Parts Question from New Member

> 1970 W-31 4 gear
> 1970 Rallye 350
> 1970 442 Convertible
> 1970 Cutlass Conv. (13.4 et's)

    Bob,        Just wondering what the configuration on the 13.4e.t. Cutlass
is, and why don't we ever see it down at Tune Town??  =B)  Or at least I'VE
never seen it.
- --
Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
Rat-Powered '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
mailto:lee@mergetel.com
Welland, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 01:48:22 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: new problems, need HELP! (LONG)

Crown14 wrote:
> 
> Help!  My power steering pump is leaking!  What are some common problems with
> power steering pumps that may cause it to leak?

At National Car Rental we see three basic problems with the system... 
First, and seemingly most common is defective P/S Pump Unit, 2nd is
leaky rack, and last is loose hoses...

The Pump is the hardest to detect, and second hardest to replace, at
least looks like it on my 87 307.  The way to check the pump is to get a
good look at the pulley, and anything that might be under the pump... 
Since the pulley spins at high rates, there won't be any dripping off of
it, but at the same time, it won't be DRY if it's leaking. (Unless
something else is leaking in the engine compartment).  Feel the back of
the pulley, if it's dry, move on down the line...  Sometimes the seal on
the P/S pulley shaft goes bad, and it'll leak right there...  I am not a
fan of rebuilding pumps, and the like, so my bet is to buy a new one... 
Or go to a bone yard, and grab one.

The second is the hoses...  Look at them real good...  Look at the
fittings on the pump and the rack...  (obviously tighten if needed) They
should be dry, and relatively clean, if the hoses look shinny and wet by
the hose fitting, then my bet is the hoses... Replace both since you're
down there...

The last is the most painful.  The rack...  Check all the areas of the
rack, everything from the left side to the right...  If you REALLY feel
energized, I am sure you can do it, but I'd leave it alone, and keep
chuckin' P/S fluid in it...  Unless it leaks too bad.

That's it, that's the whole system...  I've yet to see a P/S Pump
Reservior leak, but then again, I don't play with them when they do
leak, just replace.  <G>

- -- 
             		    Jerry Christopher
     ___        HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
 ___/.o \__, 	     1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
_=O------O=__________It ain't my father's Oldsmobile_______

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 02:15:38 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: stolen ideas

Dave Ward wrote:
> 
> Chris Brown Witt wrote:
> 
> > Do you add bleach to the water for smokier burnouts?
> 
> Racers run through that before burning out, but it's done to help clean
> the tires as opposed to creating smoke.  Whenever I put on a torque
> show, I'll either pour down dish soap and spray with water, or, if I
> don't care about the pavement, I'll pour down a quart of transmission
> fluid (like in the school parking lot).  It's easier on the transmission
> if the ground is slippery, too...
> 
> S. Dave Ward

Back in the mid 60s a few of the gearheads at my high school would put a
little oil on their rear tires prior to impressing the masses with the
burnoutability of their cars. Kinda like circling the 60s' equivalent to
Shoney's or Frisch's restaurant with a plug wire pulled off to get the
small block wienermobile to sound like a big cam loping in a big block.
Of course I would never do that.  The first car I had that I got to pick
out was a 64 Chev sports coupe, white with bright blue interior, red
line wide oval tires on chrome reverse wheels, spring spacers for a
reverse California slant and a puny little 283 2bbl, 2 speed powerglide
trans.  Car looked like it was truly a BAD ride.  It ran good, but I was
in the kindergarden league as far as performance then.  But compared to
the 4 door, 2 tone 63 BelAir I traded in, it felt like a million
dollars.  It wasn't quite what I wanted, but my father was trying to
insure that I would live long enough to finish high school.  In
retrospect, as usual, he was smarter than I was.  It wouldn't keep up
with the Cutlasses, Chev IIs, GTOs, Mustangs, etc, but it sure looked
like it would.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 02:24:35 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Parts Question from New Member

Trevor Lee wrote:

>     Bob,        Just wondering what the configuration on the 13.4e.t. Cutlass
> is, and why don't we ever see it down at Tune Town??  =B)  Or at least I'VE
> never seen it.

Hey TL,

This came across at about 1:46 AM Sunday.  Don't know when you sent it,
but if that's close it is nice to know someone else is up this late  :)
Been a long day.  Trying to get caught up so I can get a week to work on
my cars  before tax season hits again.  I would really like to get a
block of about a week of time that I can dedicate to getting some of
this nonrolling stock to rolling again.  It would be nice to just get
out there and clean them up so I can get started on actually doing
something significant.  :)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 03:03:11 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Not enuf tyme

> my cars  before tax season hits again.  I would really like to get a
> block of about a week of time that I can dedicate to getting some of
> this nonrolling stock to rolling again.  It would be nice to just get
> out there and clean them up so I can get started on actually doing
> something significant.  :)

         I know the feeling, bud....I don't have my car here at home now...it's
being stored in the city where I used to live about 15 miles away.  Although I have
full access to it, it's a bit discouraging with the weather being what it is and
not having the car right out back in the garage to "ticker" with now and again.  I
have a scarey feeling I'll be "rushing" in the spring to get it done!!  I don't
wanna have to do that...I just wanna be able to open up the garage, push the thing
out into the driveway and turn the key.  (although now that I've said that it'll
probably blow up when I do this)  hehe.  Later.
- --
Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
Rat-Powered '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
mailto:lee@mergetel.com
Welland, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 05:01:22 EST
From: RCKTPWR <RCKTPWR@aol.com>
Subject: Re: proper responses to Q's

Look, any 1 knows its a faw faw too!!
Bernie...........LOL!!!!!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 06:02:28 -0500
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: new problems, need HELP!

> In terms of your alternator a simple trick I've learned of, correct me
> if I'm wrong, but taking a screwdriver (or something metal and
> touching it to the back of your alternator (with engine running)
> would give you some general notion as to its condition.

What you are referring to here is to bypass the regulating circuit to
check amp capacity.  A screwdriver in the small "D" shaped opening in
the back should do it.  Have an ammeter hooked up to the alternator lead
when you do this (but only momentarily, or you could damage it) and you
should see full rated output current.

2 cents,
- -- 
Mike Rothe
69 H/O
71 442 HT
85 442 T-top
76 GMC 1/2 ton, 502 c.i.

http://pages.prodigy.net/mrothe/rocket.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 06:27:29 -0500
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: new problems, need HELP!

> the back should do it.  Have an ammeter hooked up to the alternator lead
> when you do this (but only momentarily, or you could damage it) and you
> should see full rated output current.

Let me clarify this for I don't want to be taken out of context.  (Dang,
it's too early in the morning I guess)  Touching the screwdriver in the
slot and grounding it should only be done momentarily or you could
damage the alternator.  It doesn't matter how long you have the ammeter
hooked up.
- -- 
Mike Rothe
69 H/O
71 442 HT
85 442 T-top
76 GMC 1/2 ton, 502 c.i.

http://pages.prodigy.net/mrothe/rocket.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 08:07:12 +0000
From: ejhufnagel@juno.com (Edward J. Hufnagel)
Subject: 425 4bbl and intake

 Does anyone know where I can get an intake manifold and a 4 bbl Q-jet
for my '66 425?  Thanks for any and all help.
                  E.J.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 08:52:52 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: Painting

Jim,

My experience w/MAACO jobs is that they do very little to prepare the car
before painting it.  The job itself looks pretty fair in most cases, but it
doesn't last but a year or 2.

A quality job needs lots of experience & labor intensive preparation even on
a good car.  The life of the paint job depends upon this.  MAACO & many
other companies like this use cheap laabor & quick methods to give you a
reasonable product at a low price.It is very expensive to remove a poor
paint job.  Unless you are planning on selling the car soon, I would not use
these low cost companies.  The woes that you will suffer in a short time are
not worth it.

In North Alabama, it takes around $2000 to get a superior paint job on a
reasonably good car.  The cost can be higher, but I believe that the $3000 -
$4000 price you quoted would be excessive here.

I would visit the shops in question & notice:
1.  their professionalism (or lack of it).
2. They should be reasonably clean & organized.
3. The parts taken off the car should be reasily accessible to the body man
& stored properly.
4. Spare parts & tools shouldn't be laying all over someone's car.
5. There should be good storage for each project awaiting it's turn.
6. Tools should be well cared for.  If a professional doesn't care about his
expensive tools, what about your car.
7. You should be able to ask all the questions that you wish.  Expect the
body shop to ask many questions of you.  You both should care about what you
are going to get for your money.
8. Don't expect to get a frim price until both of you are satisfied as to
what is expected.
9. Do expect to get a contract in writing w/the details of both your & the
shop's requirements.  Expect a completion deadline, details on who supplies
parts & does what labor, payment provisions, & clauses involving unexpected
or extra work.
10.  Don't expect to pay up front.  That is a bad business practice that
usually involves you being stuck w/the project no matter what your
objections are.  The shop is protected by a mechanic's lean if you don't
pay.
11.  Get references & talk to customers who are around.
12.  Most paint jobs are guaranteed for several years.  This guarantee  is
only is good as the word of the shop.

Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
Decatur, Alabama
'62 Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 convertible


>Hi All,
>
>       I am looking for a place to have my car painted. I called up a few
>places and thier prices were around 3-4000 dollars. I was on my way to a
place
>to see if they would repair my hood and I noticed Macco. I went inside and
>asked a few questions. They said that they can blast the car and paint it
with
>a base coat clear coat for 599 dollars. Has anyone on the list had any
>expierence with Macco at all? If so, how did you like the job they did on
your
>car? How much does a good paint job run for a car that has no rust?
>
>
>Jim / DROLDS350@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 08:59:43 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: 1970 Bucket Seats

Jim,

The hog rings should be taken loose w/pliers & then discarded.  Consider
stainless hog rings so that rust doesn't stain your upholstery later in its
life.  I believe that this wire is then fed into a pocket in the new
upholstery & then reattached to the seat.

If you haven't obtained your upholstery as yet, I would advise that you do
so that you can compare everything to what you are removing.  Make plenty of
notes.

I have used Tamrazs for my 1970 Buick GS & am very ahppy w/them.  Their
prices are good & so is the service & the quality of parts.  I plan on
getting my interior for the 1968 442 convertible from them also.  A fellow
named Bob is my contact for ordering.

Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
Decatur, Alabama
'62 Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 convertible


>Olds List Members:
>For the first time I was taking off the 1970 seat covers on my passenger
>bucket and the back seat. When I was doing the front bucket I noticed that
>there was a wire or hook that was almost like a twisted rope that was
attached
>to the foam by the hog rings. Do I cut the hog ring or cut the blue fabric?
>Can any one offer me any tips on putting in upholstery. I plan on going to
>Tamaraz because they are in the neighorhood. Has anyone ever delt with
them?
>Please Help, I am a real beginner, but excited to learn.
>
>Jim / DROLDS350@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 07:03:13 -0800
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Painting

DR OLDS350 wrote:

Take it from me, be careful.  Each Maaco is individually owned and the
corporate
office will not take responsibility for its franchises.  I am speaking
from 
experience here.  I got screwed by their warranties.  When you spend
money to get
a paint, you would expect the job to last as long as their warranty. 
Wrong!

I made a big mistake going with Maaco.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 10:16:13 EST
From: JACKSPER <JACKSPER@aol.com>
Subject: Restore 1965 Olds dynamic 88

Need misc. interior parts for 65 dynamic 88.  is there anything out there?
I've never seen a 65 listed. Is this an oddball for restoring? I am a new
member
and really a novice in this restoration.  An unusual switch from a lifetime of
accounting.  Any help appreciated.  Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 10:21:28 EST
From: DR OLDS350 <DROLDS350@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Painting

Chris,
Could you tell me your story. I saw some of the paint jobs and they didn't
look to bad. For 599.00 they paint and give you a 5 year warranty.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 08:32:29 -0700
From: Gary Manton <sasgmm@unx.sas.com>
Subject: Re: Transmission Models/Ratios

Which transmission would be in my '64 dynamic 88?

thanks,

g



At 02:45 PM 12/6/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Message text written by INTERNET:Igor
>>The third question is if anyone knows, what are the gear ratios of the
>TH200R4. Also, if you know, what are the ratios of TH250, 350, 400 trans<
>
>I posted this information before and it is in the Olds Faq, here is an
>abbreviated version:
>
>
>     Here are some common tranmission gear ratios: 
>
>     Transmission
>        Model           First   Second   Third   Fourth   Reverse
>     Rear Wheel Drive:
>     TH-180C (3L30)     2.400   1.479    1.000     ---     2.000
>     TH-200-4R          2.741   1.568    1.000    0.674    2.067
>     TH-350             2.52    1.52     1.00      ---
>     TH-400 (3L80)      2.482   1.482    1.000     ---     2.077
>     TH-700-R4 (4L60)   3.059   1.625    1.000    0.696    2.294
>     4L30-E             2.400   1.479    1.000    0.723    2.000
>     4L30-E Optional    2.860   1.620    1.000    0.723    2.000
>     4L60-E             3.059   1.625    1.000    0.696    2.294
>     4L80-E             2.482   1.482    1.000    0.750    2.077
>
>     Front Wheel Drive:
>     TH-125C (3T40)     2.840   1.600    1.000     ---     2.067
>     TH-440-T4 (4T60)   2.921   1.568    1.000    0.705    2.385
>     4T60-E             2.921   1.568    1.000    0.705    2.385
>     4T65-E             2.921   1.568    1.000    0.705    2.385
>     4T80-E             2.960   1.626    1.000    0.681    2.130
>
>    Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma Plant
>Transmission Division (4T60/65-E) - Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com
>The statements and opinions expressed here are NOT an official
>statement of General Motors or the GM Powertrain Division
>
>'97 Chevy Blazer LT 4x4 4.3L V6    '96 DCM Impala SS 5.7L V8 
>'87 Olds Cutlass 442 307 V8        '61 GMC 1500 Fleetside 305 V6  
>
>
          \\|//
          (o o)                     
~~~~~~oOOo~(_)~oOOo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Gary M. Manton					SAS Institute
Business Solutions Division			Phoenix, AZ  85012
(602) 265-1616 ext. 230 - voice		        (602) 265-8585 - fax
						(888) 982-4079 - Pager

"In business as in life, your chances of being run over are doubled
if you stay in the middle of the road"
~~~~~~oooo~~~~~oooo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 09:38:57 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: 425 4bbl and intake

E.J.,

I am getting some parts for Lisa's 1967 Olds Delta 88.  I'm supposed to
return to get the parts on Wednesday.  There is a 425 engine in it, but the
carb is gone.  I might be able to get the manifold.

Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
Decatur, Alabama
'62 Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 convertible


> Does anyone know where I can get an intake manifold and a 4 bbl Q-jet
>for my '66 425?  Thanks for any and all help.
>                  E.J.
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 10:47:21 EST
From: DASTEQ <DASTEQ@aol.com>
Subject: Advice on pricing

Need help... on pricing a 1966 Oldsmobile F-85.  Original owner, original
paint, no rust, original 170miles+/-  Car has been sitting for one year
...always garaged.  Everything works... Needs new door seals, trunk torsion
bar.  Would appreciate any comments, advice...need to sell car.  Please reply
DASTEQ@aol.com
Thank you

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 11:09:40 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: Parts Question from New Member

- ----------
> From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Parts Question from New Member
> Date: Sunday, December 07, 1997 1:46 AM
> 
> > 1970 W-31 4 gear
> > 1970 Rallye 350
> > 1970 442 Convertible
> > 1970 Cutlass Conv. (13.4 et's)
> 
>     Bob,        Just wondering what the configuration on the 13.4e.t.
Cutlass
> is, and why don't we ever see it down at Tune Town??  =B)  Or at least
I'VE
> never seen it.
> --
> Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech

Sure you have, My gold Convertible cutlass.  I park on the enter side with
Firebird Frank and hid 69 bird
You should have beenwith me at Cayuga this summer you could have seen for
your self.
I do have video from last year but the runs last year were only 13.7 at
best.  Next year I hope to have the Rallye 350 ready for the Convertible's
drivetrain and the I hope to apply a little Nitrous -- I'm shooting for low
12's next summer See you on the Lane

Bob

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 11:24:18 -0500
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: proper responses to Q's

RCKTPWR wrote:
> 
> Look, any 1 knows its a faw faw too!!
> Bernie...........LOL!!!!!!!!!

Sounds as if you've been listening to "Detroit 442" (or should I say
"Detroit Faw Faw Too"?) by Blondie...
- -- 
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 12:32:25 -0400
From: "Robert J. Lavey" <rjlavey@rmci.net>
Subject: Re: PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale 

Hi Jim,

At 11:09 PM 12/3/97 -0500, you wrote:

>New Parts:
>66-68 Bucket Seat Backs (2) and Sides (4) (metal, nice, black)  $75.00 all

How are these different than the plastic ones that came on my '68?  Do they
use a chrome trim piece around the edge like the plastic ones?

Also, have you got a floor shift steering column for a '68 (tilt or not, it
doesn't matter)?

Thanks,
Bob
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Robert J. Lavey                         email: rjlavey@rmci.net
 13243 W. Dahlia Dr.                     Home:  (208) 939-5418
 Boise, ID  83713-1302                   Fax:   (208) 939-5452
- -----------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 12:38:15 -0400
From: "Robert J. Lavey" <rjlavey@rmci.net>
Subject: Apology

Hi Gang,

Sorry for posting the request for parts information to the whole group.  I
have the terrible trouble remembering to change the "To:" header line when
replying to emails I received on the list.

Bob
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Robert J. Lavey                         email: rjlavey@rmci.net
 13243 W. Dahlia Dr.                     Home:  (208) 939-5418
 Boise, ID  83713-1302                   Fax:   (208) 939-5452
- -----------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 12:08:32 EST
From: W30442CS <W30442CS@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Restore 1965 Olds dynamic 88

where are you located?   the state i mean?  saw parts car for sale
w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 13:57:02 -0800
From: Greg Pruett <grpruett@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: runaway engine

> At the risk of offending someone by implying that they are... shall we say, not
> thinking clearly at the time?
> 
> Might I suggest that turning the key OFF is the optimal way to control a
> runaway motor. As you see, shifting to N only leaves you with NO control over
> the motor at all. You know, the ignition switch, that thing you almost always
> kill the motor with...

Would ya believe Chris that they tell you in driver's ed to shift into
neutral if the engine runs away.  At least they did back when I took it
in `93.  The logic being that you can more readily stop and steer the
car with the power going steering and brakes still operational.  I
argued the point with the instructor, pointed out that most power brake
boosters have enough vacuum reserve for one application with the engine
off. (surprise surprise, a smart ass 15 year old :)   He said something
to the effect that the book sez so, the test comes from the book, and
it's too early to argue. 

I say they made thoes brake pedals 6 inches wide for a reason. :)  With
both feet on the brake I can lock 'em up real good even without power. 
With just one foot I can stop well enough for most situations.  

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cultass Calais

   
> 
> --
> Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
> *the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 12:47:59 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: sounds

- -----Original Message-----
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, December 07, 1997 12:21 AM
Subject: Re: sounds


>> > > how bout 4 starters the 1st few lines of the Beach boys "409" I
have the c/d
>> You wonder what the song would be like if they had waited a couple
more
>> years to record it.......
>>
>> "Well, I saved my pennies and my dollars too,
>> Before I knew that my dream would come true,
>> When I would buy a brand new 442......"
>>
>> "My 4-barrel, 4-speed, dual exhaust, 442......"
>>
>> Just a thought...
>
>        Hmm....ya know, I think we might have something here, folks!!
Mike, I'll
>have my people call your people....we'll do lunch!  =B)


Maybe we can get Drew Senko and his Band to record it. Do it in kinda
Punk style maybe.:-) Drew?????

Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass S convertible
OCA# 29770
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 11:54:56 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: RE: 1977 oldsmobile omega 305 v8 2bbl

> >          When i try to start car, it makes a screaching noise.Engine will
> not 
> >turn over.
> 
Ouch....sounds like the flywheel to me, is the screeching noise 
comming from the front or the back of the engine? if its comming from 
the front, I would check the Timing chain, if its from the back, 
would have to be flywheel, starter, or trans related, does it want to 
start at all? does the engine seem really loaded down if it cranks? 
if thats the case, look at the flywheel teeth.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Fax (815) 235-6130
Home Page http://www.highland.cc.il.us
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few, or the one."

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 11:59:48 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: RE: Engine/Heads Paint

I used "Hot Paint" from Farm and Fleet on my engine, withstands 1500 
degrees, so far so good, but, then again I have only had it in there 
since summer, so, don't know long term. 

> 
> Has anyone found a good paint that doesn't burn off of the heads next to
> the exhaust ports?
> 
> Chris Miller
> '68 442
> cya442@mindspring.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Fax (815) 235-6130
Home Page http://www.highland.cc.il.us
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few, or the one."

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 12:01:08 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: 425 4bbl and intake

Hmm, there is a 66 Olds 88 up at a local junkyard, but, don't know the 
engine size, next time I am up there, I will check it out for you.



>  Does anyone know where I can get an intake manifold and a 4 bbl Q-jet
> for my '66 425?  Thanks for any and all help.
>                   E.J.
> 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Fax (815) 235-6130
Home Page http://www.highland.cc.il.us
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few, or the one."

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #994
********************************

