To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #946


oldsmobile-digest      Monday, November 10 1997      Volume 01 : Number 946



Re: defroster
Re: Need Ideas - Hood Repair
Re: Parting out '75 Cutlass 'S'
Re: Greetin's and Salutations
Re: Electrical Brake Indicator Light problems
Hey Stereo Buffs....
Re: misc. parts for sale; 68-72
Re: Hey Stereo Buffs....
Re: I NEED HELP
Re: Need Ideas - Hood Repair
Re: 1st gear ratio's
'84 Cruise Control
ratty 76 Cutlass
Fwd: [Fwd: Fw: virus alert]
Re: Toronado for sale
Extru-hone alternatives
TH400 f/s
Re: ratty 76 Cutlass
68 convert quarters & fenders
Re: 12" Disc brake donor cars for 67 a-body????
Re:12" Disc Brake doner car for 67 A- body
Big Blocks
conv top pcs
Oldsie vs Chevy motors
hood repair
Ratty Cutlass
260 vac routing
Post '72 12-bolt rear-end
brake lite on
Re: Hey Stereo Buffs....
Re: Ratty Cutlass

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Nov 1997 20:37:14 -0500
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: defroster

Clarence R. Isaacks II wrote:
>
> Did Olds put rear defrosters in the 70-72 Vista Cruisers?  If so does
> anyone have the parts.?  Rear glass, dash switch etc,etc

No, they weren't available.  It was an option on the Custom Cruiser,
though.  Parts don't interchange.

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

If it's tourist season, why can't we shoot them?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Nov 1997 21:55:43 -0800
From: Greg Pruett <grpruett@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Need Ideas - Hood Repair

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>
> A friend of mine called tonight with a sad story.
<snip>
> He decided the way to eliminate the rattle was to use some of that
> foam-in-a-can stuff. So he shot some of it into the inner bracing.
<snip>
> yet). Apparently the foam expanded as it cured and distorted the hood. It
<snip>
> If
> anyone has any ideas, let me know and I'll pass them on.

Probably oughta experiment with some foam sprayed into tin cans so he
doen't end up with a chemistry set worth of chemicals stuck in that
hood.

As far as I know that spray foam insulation stuff is polystyrene (check
and see what the label says), which is what styrofoam is made of.  So
I'd suggest petrolium products.  Gasoline will dissolve styrofoam,
problem is it turns into napalm(sp?)  Well, for all intents and purposes
it's napalm.  It sticks to everything and is very flammable.  But diesel
fuel, kerosine, heating oil, etc. might be worth a try.  Maybe even
WD-40?  How about just a coathanger and an airhose?

Better check the side of the can, it might have instructions for
cleaning off tools or overspray.

Hope I was of some help.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Nov 1997 20:42:42 -0500 (EST)
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: Re: Parting out '75 Cutlass 'S'

Im looking for the trim that goes around the opra windows on the outside.
They are the long triangle windows in the Quarters.Does the car have a vinal
top? Also how is the rubber imbetween the rear bumper where the gas lid is.
 Thanks joe.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Nov 1997 18:41:22 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Greetin's and Salutations

>
> > << 468 BigBlock Chevy motor.  I'v >>
> > chevy!!!!!! in an OLDS???????   sorry to many BB OLDS around to do
> that..

Those of the list are expecting me to jump in here, I'm sure ;)  I'll be
nice since 'yer new an' all ;)

bowties aside, looks like you got a great project going for you.  Those
were really neat cars.  Nothing can beat the BigBlock Olds for it,
though, 'cept maybe a Buick 455.  But a ch--  That's right, I said I'd
be nice.  :)

> away from Niagara Falls, CANADA) I'd happily drop a tricked out 455 in
> it's place.

Actually, I'd bet there are much more than you'd expect.  The 455 Olds
was a ~very~ popular engine, ~especially~ before '74.  Plus, most of
them came in ~large~ boats that don't get driven anymore, and if you're
really lucky, you might find someone to pay ~you~ to haul it off.  I've
got one down here that they've been begging me to come get.  Smogger
heads, but it's 455.  I've got the rest of the stuff to make a complete
runner out of the engine, I've just gotta get the time to do it.  (Most
of the stuff is less than a half hour from Canada, too, if that helps
brighten the spirits...

>  Until then I'm using what I've got and I very much anticipate the
> results.

Point taken.  Try this.  After you get it going, and start winning
races, offer to sell the motor to some of your victims.  (With a healthy
margin, of course...)  Nothing sells a motor like a good a**-whooping!
;) If you play the cards right, you should be able to get a good C-head
motor built for a closely similar price.  You won't be able to get your
Hyper-E's for the Olds, but I doubt that will be a big problem.  There's
still quite a selection available.  Get a more aggessive set of gears in
there, and you'll have a helluva ride.

One of my favorite race episodes involved a guy in Havre (my old
hometown, kindof...)  Built up a 72 chevelle.  Way up.  Crate big block
che*y, 490something.  Ya know the one, twelve thousand horsepower, beats
F-16's, etc etc.  The kind of guy that would never race anyone, cuz it
wasn't worth his time and gas, but if no one was around, the tires were
roasting...  And bragging it up as being the fastest car in the state,
etc, etc.  New suspension all around, ladder bars, nine inch, you name
it.  We hated him...  Every time he'd start bragging, we'd just say
"prove it."  He'd always reply "against ~that~?" and laugh and then
leave.  I finally got him at a light one night.  (bone stock 425 in a
car that weighed probably 800 pounds more than his...  Worn 3.23 posi,
weak suspension, 200K+ TH350, etc...  There were plenty of onlookers, so
he knew he had to go.  I kicked his a** so bad is wasn't even worth ~my~
gas to do it.  With ~plenty~ of witnesses.  All of whom were laughing
their a**es off.  He drove the car the next day only, and then never
again.  That was over a year ago.  He sold the big block, but a 200K+
350 in it, and gave the chevelle to his kid (who later wrecked it).  The
moral of the story, you don't need to spend thousands of dollars to win
races.  You just need to spend the money in the right places.  Since
you've already spent yours on a che*y, I won't give you ~too~ much crap
about it, but at least keep your eyes open for the Olds blocks.  There
are plenty out there, just waiting to win races.

Looking at your spec chart on your page (nice page, by the way) I see
tons of projected stuff, like the 9", roll control, etc.  Then I see the
projected 3.23's.  Those are probably borderline, I'd guess.  All the
stuff I see tells me that you want to win races.  Where you race will
dictate what stuff you'll need.  If you're going to get into dragrace
circuits, you'll want to go with the more professional stuff like that
(roll control, NO2, rev limiters, etc...)  If your going to go out on
the street, and have stoplight challenges like I just love to do, most
of that stuff won't be that big of a deal.  I don't know what your
competion's like there, but I'd assume it's not too serious.  Go with a
more aggressive gear in back (2:41?  What was Olds thinking!)  3.23's
are good, that's what I run, and it's borderline for highway runs.  I'd
like an overdrive, but that's neither here nor there.  I wouldn't want
to go any higher than that (numerically) cuz it's a really good gear.
Maybe a 3.42 would be a good choice too, you can still drive that.
Maybe go with the airbag spring assists on the back.  They work
awesome!  This will let you run real shocks in the back (helping out the
wheel hop, which you ~will~ have, I'd almost guarantee it.)  Go with
Energy Suspensions new bushings on the back control arm sets, they're
among the best.  If you still have problems after that, get the Lakewood
hop stop arms.  They run about $120 (I think) and work great, too.  They
made the night and day difference between me winning constantly, and me
getting my a** kicked ~bad!~  (Maybe I shouldn't have told him to buy
those!)  New body mount bushings might help things some, too.  (This is
getting into an esoteric area, but every little bit helps, right?  Plus,
with a tank that heavy, and that old, they're surely gonna need
replacing anyway.  All of mine do...  All of this (with the exception of
the airbags) look perfectly stock to your opponents, and they won't
likely see the bags, anyway.  Not much attracts attention like a nine
inch.  The Rockit looked bone stock top to bottom, so everybody always
shrugged when I challenged to a race.  They had no idea ~stock~ could be
that potent.  Plus it still had room to advance so much more.
Everything was worn out on it when I'd raced it, so I had to lose time
from that...  It usually only takes once, getting beaten by something
that looks bone stock, to wake someone up and say, what am I doing
wrong?  To them I usually answer "you're driving a che*y!"

Screech, don't get me wrong here, I like your car, and it looks like
you've got something really hot going for it.  I'd just really like to
see an oil fill tube sticking up from the water pump.  That's all...  It
feels good when people don't really know what hit 'em...  and you do.

>         BTW, don't forget that GM itself put Chevy motors into
> Oldsie/Buick/Pontiac cars starting around the mid-late 70s.
And early 80's...  But, ask ~everyone~ this:  When was the last time you
got beat by a 305 Cutlass?
How about a 403 TransAm?
I rest my case ;)


> aiming for a killer project car that nobody else has.

Umm, doesn't ever car in Car Craft ~and~ Hot Rod have a big block che*y
in it?

> We've already got a '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham (same colour as mine > even)
with a 455 in it around these parts.

Sweet!  Those are fairly uncommon cars to start with.  Having a matched
set is just too cool.  Suddenly gives more incentive to get a 455 in
yours.  Make it ~look~ stock, i.e. paint that alum intake Olds blue,
leave a good Q-jet on there (1970 modelyear?) get some pre 70 Toro "C"
heads, reworked with hardenned seats, and have a super potent twin to
that other guy.  Watch him closely.  Any cars he can't beat, find 'em
the next day, bet 'em $50 that you kick their a**.  They can even look
under the hood.

Those che*y guys think it takes wide valve covers to make horsepower,
and they see the Olds skinnies as being a small engine.  The 455 in the
Rocket ~looks~ smaller than the V6 that's in the '83.  Deception at it's
finest.

Whatever you decide (p-p-p-p-p-p-please get an Olds;), best of luck to
you and your car.  I look foreward to seeing the strip tests next
spring.  Welcome to the list, and try not to take any ~personal~ offense
when I start slamming ch*vys, cuz I do and will, and mean no personal
offense by it...

- --
Charley Buehner         Sidney  Montana
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
81 Cutlass 425     Rockit 1
70 Buick GS455   BT UR 4D
               ... The Heartbeat of America???  It's in my mirror.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Nov 1997 18:49:20 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Electrical Brake Indicator Light problems

> My brake indicator light on my 1986 Olds 88 comes on when making a
> sharp turn. clue as to what the problem is and how to fix it?

Check your parking brake swtich?  Is there anything under the steering
column that'll possibly bump into the E-brake assy?

- --
Charley Buehner         Sidney  Montana
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
81 Cutlass 425     Rockit 1
70 Buick GS455   BT UR 4D
               ... The Heartbeat of America???  It's in my mirror.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Nov 1997 20:54:34 -0500 (EST)
From: Patrick Rose <prose@email.unc.edu>
Subject: Hey Stereo Buffs....

I took out the stereo and bad front speaker in my '68 Cutlass 'S'
today. Man was that a pain. I have a few questions for the experts out
here. For the '68s, is there supposed to be a plastic brace that connects
to the back of the stereo that holds it in place? If so, mine was missing
because as soon as I took out the nuts in the dashboard it just fell out.
Also, can someone fill me in on what wire is what? I would like to add
rear speakers and I want it to seem factory, you know with one channel in
front and the other in back. Can I do that? That's the way it was in my
'72 when I had it. My stereo has three leads on one side that connect to
an adapter. Two of the wires go to the front speaker (blue and black), and
the other wire is yellow and I don't know what it is for. There is a blue
wire sticking out of the other side of the stereo that wasn't connected to
anything. Do I need that? Please let me know what these colors mean and
where the wires are supposed to go. My stereo has been acting funny anyway
and I would like to check the wiring since the entire dash is gutted
anyway. Thanks guys.


Pat

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Nov 97 08:04:36 PST
From: "Luke Hogan" <hogan442@c-gate.net>
Subject: Re: misc. parts for sale; 68-72

- ----------
>
> looking around the shop today i saw i had a few extra parts laying around
and
> could use some room.  (3) rad. core supports for 70 cutlass, (1) rear deck
> lid 71 cutlass coupe, (1) rear deck lid for 70 cutlass coupe, (1) rear
deck
> lid for 70 cs, (1) rear deck lid for 69 cutlass s, have frt. clip for 69
> cutlass s,   frt.bumper for 68 cutlass,   rear bumper for 69 cutlass,
lots
> of glass,all years,  dash boards and pads 68-72,  70 350 eng. x mann., 64
442
> bellhouseing and x mann., 70 sx chrome for vinyl top , and the 2" wide
strip
> on the side, 70-71-72 frt. bumpers, 71-72 rear bumpers, 70 chrome
headlight
> bezels, glove box doors 68-72 (more than i can count),  70-72 vista cruzer
> parts,  if interested email me                   w30442cs@aol.com
>               steven.



Steven:

I'm looking for a rear deck lid for a '70 4-4-2. I believe a Cutlass will
work that has no rust.
Mine looks pretty good except for some bubble rust around the bottom part
of the keylock.
Surface rust is find.  Mine is '87 Series fastback.
Curious as to what you want for your '70 Cutlass Coupe rear deck lid.  Do
you think that yours will work for me?
What kind of shape is yours in?


Thanks!

Luke

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Nov 1997 19:09:10 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Hey Stereo Buffs....

> Also, can someone fill me in on what wire is what? I would like to add
> rear speakers and I want it to seem factory, you know with one channel

Pat.  Older cars certainly add a challenge to the car audio aspect.
Being a stereo buff, I cringe at the idea of having left in front and
right in back...  The stereo imaging goes right out the door.  Just
doesn't sound right.  Not sure about the 68, but my 70 GS had spots for
2 6X9's in the rear deck.  You might go that route.  Probably the
easiest. (Or did 68 have it in the seat?)  If you want stock looks, the
you'll have to do what you'd menioned, and sacrifice sound quality.  Of
course, if it's in stereo, it's not the factory radio anymore, so stock
might not be a major concern.

As for the wires, you should have three total, in addition to your two
speaker leads.  The yellow is the ignition lead, 12V+ when key's on.
The black should be a ground.  And there should be a grey lead somewhere
for panel lights.  (comes on with the dash lights.)  Might come straight
off the top of the radio where the bulb is, and then follow down to the
rest of the harness.  ~should~ be, anyway...

Good luck.  Any more Q's, feel free.

- --
Charley Buehner         Sidney  Montana
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
81 Cutlass 425     Rockit 1
70 Buick GS455   BT UR 4D
               ... The Heartbeat of America???  It's in my mirror.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Nov 1997 18:30:44 -0700
From: Jono_Kohan@Sonymusic.Com
Subject: Re: I NEED HELP

Does anyone know where I can find 2 front headlight actuators for the
vacuum systen for my 66 Toro?  Please e-mail me with any info.  Your help
is greatly appreciated.


Regards,

Jono

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Nov 97 21:47:59 EST
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: Need Ideas - Hood Repair

At 05:21 PM 11/9/97 -0700, you wrote:
>Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>>
>> A friend of mine called tonight with a sad story. He has a '70 Cutlass
>> and the hood had a nasty rattle in it.
>> He decided the way to eliminate the rattle was to use some of that
>> foam-in-a-can stuff. So he shot some of it into the inner bracing.
>> Apparently the foam expanded as it cured and distorted the hood.
>> It must be mighty powerful stuff to move metal like that.
>
>Ouch.  I was afraid this story was about to end that way...  I've heard
>of that happening before.  (never on a hood, but I've heard horror
>stories, anyway).  These foam cans come in a variety of strengths, I
>guess, varying between minimum expansion and maximum expansion, I
>think.  Apparantly your friend found out his expands quite well :(  A
>good lesson to be learned by the rest of us who may be faced with
>similar situations.  Ouch...
>
>> Anyway, he feels sick now.
>
>Quite understandably so...
>>
>> He is desperate for ideas. He's going to experiment with what will
>> dissolve the cured foam -- thinners, acetone, stripper, god knows what
>
>Remember, the moon is made out of this very same material.  The
>government never released the exact details, but it's assumed that they
>were experimenting with a testing station on the old Skylab many years
>ago.  They wanted to see what this stuff does in space (how much will it
>~realy~ expand???) so they shot some into a crater on the moon.  The
>moon exploded, and this stuff took it's place.  (Some of you may have
>noticed it got bigger a few years back?)
>
>For disolving it, I don't remember any substance known to man that did
>the trick very well.  (It's been a while though, so any thoughts are
>welcome, I'm sure...)  I'm afraid it won't do much good to get the stuff
>out of there, I'd guess the metal will stay where it's at, unless some
>~serious~ metal work is done, which I'm assuming is something he isn't
>wanting to tackle.
>
>What kind of Olds is it, and what area(s) of the hood are damaged?
>Would some form of aftermarket cowl induction hood scoop cover it and
>look acceptable?  If not, I think he'd be better off to save the
>headscratching for a salvage lot search.  The situation doesn't look
>good...
>
>Future rattle cures?  Try some of that windshield urethane sealer.  You
>get it in a caulking tube at virtually any parts store, and it should
>cure similar rattles quickly, I'd assume...  I'm not sure what the
>factory used, but I think this stuff would substitute just fine.
>
>
>--
>Charley Buehner         Sidney  Montana
>mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
>http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
>81 Cutlass 425     Rockit 1
>70 Buick GS455   BT UR 4D
>               ... The Heartbeat of America???  It's in my mirror.
>

   There may be a resolution here without any permanent sheet metal damage.
First of all most of the foam needs to be solved.  I don't know it's make up
but there is a solvent for it.  You need to find this out.  Usually not
difficult, probably something like or similar to a lacquer thinner.  In a
cool temperature, (important) release the foam with the solvent from the
sheet metal in a cool environment such as outside (hopefully your in the
most northern third if the country).  The way you want to do this is to
remove the hood and lay it upside down (easiest way to work the solvent into
the foam) and allow the foam to be saturated with the solvent to break it
down. Once the foam insulation is broken down (mushy), (doesn't take more
than 1/2 hour) it will be a slimy mess at this point, take the hood inside
garage or enclosure and using heat lamps, set it upon horses or such
supports to be up as it would set on the car.  Let the hood sit like this
for at least 12 hours under heat lamps and the original shape of the sheet
metal will be restored.  Very important is that you heat the WHOLE hood.  If
you need to buy 6 200 watt lamps to cover the WHOLE hood, you are going to
have to do that to allow that hood to get back into shape from the tension
that it was put under.  This will unwarp what you have.....guarrenteed.

    If you have any questions on this procedure, give me a call before you
do it.
You can e-mail my at gpc442@buffnet for my phone or pager.


    Glenn
    '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Nov 1997 22:02:48 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Re: 1st gear ratio's

> > is the 200R4 -  - anybody out there know the specs on the 200R4?
> 2004R gear ratios:
> 1st  2.74
> 2nd  1.57
> 3rd  1.00
> 4th  0.67

        Thank you very much, Greg.  I'll pass the info onto my friend, I'm sure
he'll be more than grateful. - -- Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
Rat-Powered '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
mailto:lee@mergetel.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Nov 1997 19:08:07 -0800
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: '84 Cruise Control

The cruise control on my '84 H/O isn't working correctly.  It worked great 
until
last week.  The car surges when the cruise control is on, and the full
throttle/no throttle surging is so violent that it kicks the cruise off after a
few seconds and then everything is back to normal.

I was looking under the hood hoping to find something obvious, like a cracked
vacuum hose or loose connector.  Instead, I found that the larger hose from the
cruise control goes into some split wire-loom and then down through the 
firewall
below the power brake booster.  Can anyone explain to me what this hose is for?

Or should I just go ahead and replace the whole cruise brain and save myself
headaches?

Thanks!

Tom Lentz
tlentz@ior.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Nov 1997 22:35:04 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: ratty 76 Cutlass

...'76 Cutlass with a
468 BigBlock Chevy motor.  I've noticed that some
people are very sensative about mixing parts (especially engines) from
one division to another - I tend to see it all as GM so they're all
good, quality parts.  =B)
    With the new drivetrain I am hoping to
get FAAAR into the 13s if not sneak a bit into the 12s.  The engine is
expected to produce 400HP, so the formula to work out the estimated E.T.
taking the weight into consideration equates 12.87 seconds @ like 105mph
or so.  The rear end is a 10-bolt posi from a '77 4-4-2 that has 2.41
gears in it
================
Well, since you're new... welcome.

Chevy motor, huh? Harumph. Can't say as I *like* that, but I do see the
attraction, the cheap parts & all. It's just that Ch*vies are like a**holes...
EVERYBODY has one. Part of the point in having an Olds is to be different, to
see what can be done w/o chubby parts...
  We'll be glad to have you just the same, but discussion of the engine &
related problems will have to go elsewhere, as it is not Olds-related. Not even
since it's in an Olds. "All's GM" or not. IMNSHO.

Going into the low 13's... with 2.41's? OK, let us know how that goes. Maybe
after the gear change. I suspect you are correct in figuring about 400 HP out
of a well tuned motor of 460-odd CID. But, what's the TORQUE rating? You might
find a need for another rear end soon, too. ;-)
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Nov 1997 22:36:41 -0500 (EST)
From: DanBSmith1@aol.com
Subject: Fwd: [Fwd: Fw: virus alert]

In a message dated 97-11-08 13:13:29 EST, cityauto@hub.ofthe.net writes:

<< > >Just in case you didn't get this some other way.
 > >- TSgt Wheeler
 > >Subject: DANGEROUS VIRUS ALERT!!!!
 > >
 > >
 > > Be on the lookout for an E-Mails "Join the Crew" or "Penpal
 Greetings"-DO
 > >NOT open either.  For detailed information, read below.
 > > ----------
 > >WARNING!!! If you receive an e-mail titled "JOIN THE CREW" DO NOT open
 it!
 > >It will erase EVERYTHING on your hard drive!  Send this letter out to as
 > >many people you can....this is a new virus and not many people know
 about
 > >it!
 > >This information was received yesterday morning from IBM, please share
 it
 > >with anyone that might access the internet.
 > >Also, if anyone receives mail entitled; PENPAL GREETINGS! please delete
 it
 > >WITHOUT reading it!!  This is a warning for all internet users - there
 is a
 > >dangerous virus propagating across the internet through e-mail message
 > >entitled "PENPAL GREETINGS!".
 > >DO NOT DOWNLOAD ANY MESSAGE ENTITLED "PENPAL GREETINGS"!!  This message
 > >appears to be a friendly letter asking you if you are interested in a
 > >penpal, but by the time you read this letter, it is too late.  The
 trojan
 > >horse virus will  have already infected the boot sector of your hard
 drive,
 > >destroying all of the data present.  It is a self-replicating virus, and
 > >once the message is read, it will AUTOMATICALLY forward itself to anyone
 > >whose e-mail address is present in YOUR mailbox.  This virus will
 DESTROY
 > >your hard drive, and holds the potential to DESTROY the hard drive of
 > >anyone whose mail is in your in box, and whose mail is in their box and
 so
 > >on.  If this virus keeps getting passed, it has the potential to do a
 great
 > >deal of DAMAGE to computer networks worldwide!!  Please pass this along
 to
 > >everyone you know so this can be stopped.
 > >PASS THIS ON TO YOUR FRIENDS!!!  WARNING!!
 > >There is a new virus going around in the last couple of days!!  DO NOT
 open
 > >or even look at any mail that you get that says:  "Returned or Unable to
 > >Deliver".  This virus will attach itself to your computer components and
 > >render them useless.  Immediately delete any mail items that says this.
 > >AOL has said this is a very dangerous virus, and there is NO remedy for
 it
 > >at this time.  Please be Careful, and forward to all you on-line friends
 > >A.S.A.P.  Forward this A.S.A.P. to every single person you know!!!!!
 > >
 > >
 > >
 > >----------
 > >
 > >
 > >
 >


  >>

This sent to me by a friend.  I do not know if there is anything to it or
not, but might be something to look out for.
- ---------------------
Forwarded message:
From:cityauto@hub.ofthe.net (RICHARD H. BURNS)
Reply-to:cityauto@hub.ofthe.net
To:DanBSmith1@AOL.COM
Date: 97-11-08 13:13:29 EST

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Reply-To: <lonniem@wtrt.net>
From: "Lonnie McFarland" <lonniem@wtrt.net>
To: "Ricky Burns" <cityauto@hub.ofthe.net>
Subject: Fw: virus alert
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 09:29:27 -0600
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- ----------
> From: FARWELL GRAIN INSPECTION- Awyna Sanchez <fgis@3lefties.com>
> To: lonniem@wtrt.net
> Subject: virus alert
> Date: Wednesday, November 05, 1997 9:33 AM
>
> Forwarded message:
> From:Stephen.Armstrong@rheinmain.af.mil (Armstrong, Stephen N., A1C,
> Passenger Service Agent)
> To:flrchld67@aol.com ('flrchld67@aol.com')
> Date: 97-11-04 00:43:49 EST
>
>
>
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From:Barnes, Bridgette D., AB, AMC Controller
> >Sent:Monday, November 03, 1997 11:37 AM
> >To:Arellanez, Mary, LTC, Director, Medical Operations; Armstrong,
Stephen
> >N., A1C, Passenger Service Agent; Armstrong, Steven D., SrA, Passenger
> >Service Agent; Arrison, Joseph P., CSM, Bn CSM; Arthur, Wayne, SSgt,
NCOIC,
> >Laboratory Services; Assistant Manager, Lodging; Backes, Kelsey, A1C,
> >Passenger Service Agent
> >Subject:FW: DANGEROUS VIRUS ALERT!!!!
> >
> >
> >
> >----------
> >From: Wheeler, Talbot W., TSgt, Superintendent, 626 AMCC
> >Sent: Monday, November 03, 1997 7:52 AM
> >To: Allen Caughey; Bridgette Barnes; Charles Bryant; Charles Truitt;
Driek
> >Robinson; June Benzor; Robert Bush; Wendy Jendrick
> >Subject: FW: DANGEROUS VIRUS ALERT!!!!
> >
> >Just in case you didn't get this some other way.
> >- TSgt Wheeler
> >Subject: DANGEROUS VIRUS ALERT!!!!
> >
> >
> > Be on the lookout for an E-Mails "Join the Crew" or "Penpal
Greetings"-DO
> >NOT open either.  For detailed information, read below.
> > ----------
> >WARNING!!! If you receive an e-mail titled "JOIN THE CREW" DO NOT open
it!
> >It will erase EVERYTHING on your hard drive!  Send this letter out to as
> >many people you can....this is a new virus and not many people know
about
> >it!
> >This information was received yesterday morning from IBM, please share
it
> >with anyone that might access the internet.
> >Also, if anyone receives mail entitled; PENPAL GREETINGS! please delete
it
> >WITHOUT reading it!!  This is a warning for all internet users - there
is a
> >dangerous virus propagating across the internet through e-mail message
> >entitled "PENPAL GREETINGS!".
> >DO NOT DOWNLOAD ANY MESSAGE ENTITLED "PENPAL GREETINGS"!!  This message
> >appears to be a friendly letter asking you if you are interested in a
> >penpal, but by the time you read this letter, it is too late.  The
trojan
> >horse virus will  have already infected the boot sector of your hard
drive,
> >destroying all of the data present.  It is a self-replicating virus, and
> >once the message is read, it will AUTOMATICALLY forward itself to anyone
> >whose e-mail address is present in YOUR mailbox.  This virus will
DESTROY
> >your hard drive, and holds the potential to DESTROY the hard drive of
> >anyone whose mail is in your in box, and whose mail is in their box and
so
> >on.  If this virus keeps getting passed, it has the potential to do a
great
> >deal of DAMAGE to computer networks worldwide!!  Please pass this along
to
> >everyone you know so this can be stopped.
> >PASS THIS ON TO YOUR FRIENDS!!!  WARNING!!
> >There is a new virus going around in the last couple of days!!  DO NOT
open
> >or even look at any mail that you get that says:  "Returned or Unable to
> >Deliver".  This virus will attach itself to your computer components and
> >render them useless.  Immediately delete any mail items that says this.
> >AOL has said this is a very dangerous virus, and there is NO remedy for
it
> >at this time.  Please be Careful, and forward to all you on-line friends
> >A.S.A.P.  Forward this A.S.A.P. to every single person you know!!!!!
> >
> >
> >
> >----------
> >
> >
> >
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Nov 1997 22:29:54 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Toronado for sale

>On the way to work I spotted a late sixties Toronado. It was on the
>outbound lanes so I never bothered to stop. Today I had some extra time so
>I jumped off at the next exit, did a 180 and came back down.
>
>To me surprise, when I was turning around, someone removed the Toro and
>replaced it with a Riviera in the same color scheme with the same sign in
>the window!!!!!!

heh... :)

BTW, how much did they want for it? I'd love a '68-'69 Riv GS to go with my
'69 Toro! Don't be embarassed, though; they share the same basic body shell
and glass.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Nov 1997 22:37:30 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Extru-hone alternatives

Extrude-hone alternatives:

What about something that uses gravity and air pressure
 with no moving parts?    TIM
===============
Intriguing concept [note Olds content already...] TIM, care to expand on that
theory? How does one move a slurry of abrasive paste & water up, say, 10 feet,
using air, and no moving parts? That'd be GREAT.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Nov 1997 22:49:08 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: TH400 f/s

The folks selling off car parts hereabout- Olivet, MI area, have a rebuilt
TH400 long shaft trans available, if anyone needs one. Dunno price. All
disclaimers.  Call them if you need. I can provide ª againif necessary.


- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Nov 1997 22:53:36 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Re: ratty 76 Cutlass

> Chevy motor, huh? Harumph. Can't say as I *like* that, but I do see the
> attraction, the cheap parts & all. It's just that Ch*vies are like 
a**holes...
> EVERYBODY has one. Part of the point in having an Olds is to be different, to
> see what can be done w/o chubby parts...

        I do share the desire to be different...there's already a guy around my
area with a '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham, even the same colour as mine with a
455 in it.

>   We'll be glad to have you just the same, but discussion of the engine &
> related problems will have to go elsewhere, as it is not Olds-related. Not
even > since it's in an Olds. "All's GM" or not. IMNSHO.

        Sure, no prob.  I'll keep that in mind in my posts.  Next year or in 
'99
there's a huge chance I may be doing an Oldsie motor (maybe even a DRCE
engine!!) for it.  BTW, may I ask what IMNSHO stands for?

> Going into the low 13's... with 2.41's? OK, let us know how that goes. Maybe
> after the gear change. I suspect you are correct in figuring about 400 HP out
> of a well tuned motor of 460-odd CID. But, what's the TORQUE rating? You 
might
> find a need for another rear end soon, too. ;-)

        I'll probably be going to low-mid 3.xx's for gears - I built the engine
to operate basically from off-idle to around 5000rpm.  The Edelbrock intake I
got on there is stated as making power from 1500-5500 rpm.  The torque for that
manifold as tested by Edelbrock was near 500ft/lbs - and I've got almost the
exact same configuration in my engine as the Edelbrock one did - better in some
aspects.
        But enough talk of my Chevy engine, I promised I'd try not to speak of
it, but what I AM looking for is a 12-bolt Oldsie rear that'll bolt into the
'73-'77 A-body frame.  I found out that up til '72 the upper control arms were
about 3" closer together than in '73-'77 and then in '78 they went back to
exactly the same design as the pre-'73 rear ends!!  I believe Mr. Charley
Buehner could verify this - - if I recall correctly it was his page that I
dropped by and saw that he had a pre-'73 rear end in his '81 Cutlass with the
425 SuperRocket.   I don't know if Olds put out a 12-bolt in '73-'77 or not.
Anybody out there know yes or no on this one?  I haven't seen/heard of one 
yet. -
-- Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech Rat-Powered '76 Cutlass Supreme
Brougham http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/ mailto:lee@mergetel.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Nov 1997 22:07:12 -0600
From: Curt & Carrie Hogan <hogan@cjnetworks.com>
Subject: 68 convert quarters & fenders

Hey Kids,
 I need help, I have been a diehard chevrolet owner for many years. Now I
find myself the proud owner of a 68 cutlass convertible.I purchased this
car from the origional owner and it is preety much unmolested. It is a
little rusty and I would like to source new rear quarters and new or good
used front fenders. My normal parts contacts have not been much help(being
chevy people) so I was wondering if you might be able to help.
Thanx in advance.
Curt Hogan
Topeka Ks

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Nov 1997 23:01:30 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: 12" Disc brake donor cars for 67 a-body????

>     I have a 67 442 that I will be using the disc brake set up from a 73 "A"
>body. I have never done this before but a company in California, H-O Racing
>Specialties 4708 Marine Ave. Lawndale, CA 90260 (310) 973-7078 does this and
>had info on what parts from what cars to use. This info is a few years old so

Yeah, H-O went out of business. Others do this kind of swap, though,
including Global West.

>don't know if this ifo is corect address wise. I plan on using the
>proportioning valve from the 73. If I remember right this is a direct bolt on
>for the 67.  Hope this helps       Steve

I think you'll need hybrid ball-joints (taper on the spindles is reportedly
different), and either a *lot* of shims on the upper control arm, or a
custom tubular upper A-arm designed to work with this swap. As for the '73
A-body spindles, they're rumored to work as well as the F-body ones, as I
gather the spindle height is the same. I pulled the pair of knuckle whole
from the '76 Monte I parted, in anticipation of this working on my SX, but I
haven't received confirmation about this yet.

Either way, I think you'll need some non-standard pieces before you can bolt
anything on.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Nov 97 21:15:22 PST
From: Don R Brower <bhouse@seanet.com>
Subject: Re:12" Disc Brake doner car for 67 A- body

On Sat you wrote:What doner cars should I be looking for to put 12"disc brakes
on a 67--  A body???ect ect ect.   A few weeks ago I asked the same question 
all
I got was some parts     outfit trying to sell me some. I did some heavy 
digging
and found an      article  in a mag. put out by Hot Rod & Car craft called 200
Power &      Performance Tips  Anyway it reads somthing like this. Using parts
available from H-O Racing Specialties (Dept.CC, 4708 Marine Ave,Lawndale, Ca. ,
90260  310-973-7078) , Global West Suspention Components (dept. CC , 1423 E
Philadelphia Ontario Ca.     91761  909-923-6176) thay also mention Hotchkis
310-907-7757you can easily 5x4 3\4-inch wheel bolt pattern spindles, 11-inch
rotors   and calipers from a 76-up B (fullsize Passenger) , 70-81  Camaro-
Firebird, 73-77 A (Chevelle and clones ) (this should read Cutlass and
clones)and 75-79 X (Novas & clones) on to 64-72 A-cars Used parts are easy to
find, plus the late 70s- up parts are sti! ! ll available brand-new .   Some
76- later fullsizepassenger cars (typically police cars , station wagons or
heavy-duty towing packages) used 12" rotorswith a 5X5 inch wheel bolt pattern.
The caliper was the same, but the spindle was  different. For the ultimate in
braking, the larger rotor and spindle can be  used if desired with the above
convertion kits. They'll also bolt directly  onto those 70-81F-, 73-77A-, 
75-79X
or 76-up B-cars originally equipped with the "sister" 11-inch Components.
However, the big car 12-inch rotr\or must be redrilled to the 5X4 3/4 wheel 
bolt
pattern to work with your existing wheels. Alternatively, the 88-92 1le F-car
12-inch rotor (part ª 18016035) already has the correct 5X4 3/4 bolt
pattern and fits right on the 78 and later 12-inch B-car spindle .    hope this
makes sense???Don B.66 cutlass66 F-85

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Nov 1997 23:33:27 -0500
From: John Klepacz <Jklepacz@apollotrust.com>
Subject: Big Blocks

I was wondering what the most Cubic Inches anyone has safely gotten from a
Big Block.  Would it be possible to street a 550 CID?  Thanks,

- --
                                           _
                     / __                  _|_0
                    / / / /_/ /\/       :_/\ |_
                /__/ /_/ / / / /        :  /
                                          ""

\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
 \\ John Klepacz :-)                            \\  Leechburg  \\
  \\ Jklepacz@apollotrust.com                    \\             \\
   \\ http://www.apollotrust.com/~jklepacz/       \\ Pennsylvania\\
    \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
     \\ Does your homepage need work? Can't master HTML? Email me! \\
      \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Nov 1997 23:38:30 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: conv top pcs

ouch!!!!,   i have some conv. top bolts, not sure whitch one you need.  last
year i tried to buy an extra top frame for a 70 cutlass from a guy who deals
in parts. he told me a complete frame is going for 500$.  he still has it if
interested.    if you can let me know what strut was bent, and what bolt was
broke i will see if i have it.  i also deal in parts.        steven.
w30442cs@aol.com
================


so, he says a whole top is going for $500, but he still has it. I guess they're
not "going" very fast, then. Asking price != Selling price usually. I would
love 2 buyers to show up for my two top mechanisms at $500 each!


- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Nov 1997 23:50:29 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Oldsie vs Chevy motors

> ;) If you play the cards right, you should be able to get a good C-head
> motor built for a closely similar price.  You won't be able to get your
> Hyper-E's for the Olds, but I doubt that will be a big problem.  There's
> still quite a selection available.  Get a more aggessive set of gears in
> there, and you'll have a helluva ride.

        I've been meaning to ask this - what's the difference between the heads
of Buicks and Oldsies (are Pontiacs the same way?) with the B, C, etc
designations?  What different designations are there?

> weak suspension, 200K+ TH350, etc...  There were plenty of onlookers, so
> he knew he had to go.  I kicked his a** so bad is wasn't even worth ~my~
> gas to do it.  With ~plenty~ of witnesses.  All of whom were laughing
> their a**es off.  He drove the car the next day only, and then never
> again.  That was over a year ago.  He sold the big block, but a 200K+
> 350 in it, and gave the chevelle to his kid (who later wrecked it).  The
> moral of the story, you don't need to spend thousands of dollars to win
> races.  You just need to spend the money in the right places.  Since
> you've already spent yours on a che*y, I won't give you ~too~ much crap
> about it, but at least keep your eyes open for the Olds blocks.  There
> are plenty out there, just waiting to win races.

        Ha-ha-ha...I must admit I enjoyed that story.  I certainly know what 
you
mean about guys braggin it up until they actually get up to the line.  We got a
couple of real cards up this way that just plain never race - they've always 
got
an excuse.  I was very fortunate when I did my engine, however - I found out
that a guy I've known for a while actually OWNS a very well-respected hi-perf
machine shop (The Balancing Act, St. Catharines, Ontario, CANADA,
1(905)685-5182) and so he did my work super cheap - told me that the amount of
money I spent on the machining work and parts was about the same for most guys
to build a small-block.  =B)  Having contacts definately helps.  Both he and 
his
partner emphasized that it's not the amount of money spent, it's where it's
spent.  So I'm familiar with that theory.        I really am fondling the idea
of doing an Olds motor (I've been thinking about it for a while, actually) and
recently after thumbing through the '97 GM Performance Parts catalogue I was
thinking about the Olds DRCE (Drag Race Competition Engine).  It'll even take
the cheaper BB Chev internals like a nice LS-6 crank and nice long rods, etc.
GM's got both cast & aluminum blocks available.


> competion's like there, but I'd assume it's not too serious.  Go with a
> more aggressive gear in back (2:41?  What was Olds thinking!)  3.23's
> are good, that's what I run, and it's borderline for highway runs.  I'd
> like an overdrive, but that's neither here nor there.  I wouldn't want
> to go any higher than that (numerically) cuz it's a really good gear.
> Maybe a 3.42 would be a good choice too, you can still drive that.

        2.41, heck that's nothing - some of 'em came with 2.29s!!!!  ICKY!!!
But to tell you the truth, one thing that really attracted my attention to the
Chevy drivetrain was the 700R4 transmission.  I've been told that the 200R4
overdrive transmission wouldn't even DREAM about taking 500+lb/ft of torque 
even
with a performance rebuild kit.  IS there any way to get them to take serious
performance?  Or is there another overdrive transmission that would work good
for this application?  I'd love to run a steeper gear, but with the amount of
highway driving I anticipate doing with the car, I don't want to get much up
past the mid 3's without overdrive.  The engine will be out of it's operating
range when cruising then and wasting a ton of gas.  I'd like to keep it down
below 2500 when cruising slightly over 60mph.  My '76 Monte Carlo's got 3.08s 
in
it with a TH350 and it does around 2100-2200 at 60mph.

> among the best.  If you still have problems after that, get the Lakewood
> hop stop arms.  They run about $120 (I think) and work great, too.  They
> made the night and day difference between me winning constantly, and me
> getting my a** kicked ~bad!~  (Maybe I shouldn't have told him to buy
> those!)

        I saw a '70 Chevelle with arms on it this past summer - the first time 
I
saw a non-leaf car with 'em - that's what really grabbed my attention.  I 
always
wondered if them made 'em for the coil suspensions or not.  Well, that pretty
much answered it for me.

>  New body mount bushings might help things some, too.  (This is
> getting into an esoteric area, but every little bit helps, right?  Plus,
> with a tank that heavy, and that old, they're surely gonna need
> replacing anyway.  All of mine do...  All of this (with the exception of

        Another idea I was toying with was taking a road trip next year and
perhaps picking up another Cutlass around this year from somewhere in the
southern 'States that's got no rust (mine was a Canadian-winter driven car up
'til 2 years ago - YUCK!)  Then I could just swap the interior and what have 
you
from my current one into the rustless Cutlass.

> Screech, don't get me wrong here, I like your car, and it looks like
> you've got something really hot going for it.  I'd just really like to
> see an oil fill tube sticking up from the water pump.  That's all...  It
> feels good when people don't really know what hit 'em...  and you do.

        I kinda did like Oldsmobile's idea of having an actual oil filler tube 
-
really saves the look of your vavle covers in the long run, doesn't it?!  =B)  
I
wonder if there'd be a different way of hooking up a PCV valve instead of in 
the
vavle cover and run with smooth covers?  That'd be cool.

> >         BTW, don't forget that GM itself put Chevy motors into
> > Oldsie/Buick/Pontiac cars starting around the mid-late 70s.
> And early 80's...  But, ask ~everyone~ this:  When was the last time you
> got beat by a 305 Cutlass?
> How about a 403 TransAm?
> I rest my case ;)

        Actually, the last time I got beat by a 403 TransAm was the last time I
went out with my 305 Monte Carl-slow. =B)


> > aiming for a killer project car that nobody else has.
>
> Umm, doesn't ever car in Car Craft ~and~ Hot Rod have a big block che*y
> in it?

        Yea...but they're all Chevelle's and stuff...but I see your point - I
suppose the power plant is the important thing.  I do have one not TOO overly
common engine in my yard - a '69 Buick 430 from a Wildcat.  Although it was
among the most gutless of the 3-year run, being the last year and only having a
single 4 bbl, it apparently ain't a bad little engine - it's rated at like 
375HP
and 460ft/lbs of torque.  One thing that turned my bro and I off from building
that thing yet was the cost of headers alone - $700.  I would have thought that
the thing would have accepted headers from a 400/455, wouldn't it?

> Those che*y guys think it takes wide valve covers to make horsepower,
> and they see the Olds skinnies as being a small engine.  The 455 in the
> Rocket ~looks~ smaller than the V6 that's in the '83.  Deception at it's
> finest.

        Deceptive it can be - I could see how skinny the 403 covers were when
the 468 was sitting beside it - yet bone stock with 200K+ miles on 'er and 
she'd
still light 'em up nice with posi 2.41s.  Many people I knew were shocked outta
their socks that the thing almost pulled into the 15s.

> Whatever you decide (p-p-p-p-p-p-please get an Olds;), best of luck to
> you and your car.  I look foreward to seeing the strip tests next
> spring.  Welcome to the list, and try not to take any ~personal~ offense
> when I start slamming ch*vys, cuz I do and will, and mean no personal
> offense by it...

        No probs, Charley.  I really appreciate your honest yet friendly point
of view.  I don't think I'll have a problem with any "abuse" I may undergo.
Although I'm not too concerned about mixing GM parts, I can respect that some
people are.  After all, this is an OLDSMOBILE mailing list, so I guess I did
kinda walk into the lion's den parading around with a bowtie under my hood, eh?

TO ALL YOU OLDSMOBILE "FANATICS" (I only use that term for lack of a better 
one,
nothing derogatory meant):
        I seriously am considering transplanting an Oldsie motor into the
Cutlass, but I just gotta deal with what I got at the moment and save up a bit
of dough so the All-Oldsie project can come together faster than this one is
taking =B) Until then I just ask that you please bear with me and just smile 
and
look the other way regarding my Bowtie engine _for now_.  I very much look
forward to being an active part of this list and hope my temporary Bowtie
"handicap" won't prevent that.  Thank you, and goodnite.  =B) - -- Trevor Lee
(aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech Rat-Powered '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/ mailto:lee@mergetel.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Nov 1997 23:50:23 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: hood repair

Subject: Need Ideas - Hood Repair

hood had a nasty rattle in it; inner bracing and outer panel had separated.

He decided the way to eliminate the rattle was to use some of that
foam-in-a-can stuff.

Apparently the foam expanded as it cured and distorted the hood.

He is desperate for ideas. He's going to experiment with what will
dissolve the cured foam

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
=================
Wow, good luck. Sunlight deteriorates that stuff, I  think. Call the mfgr,
inquire within?

Lesson: CONSULT the experts on the Olds list BEFORE you fix it yourself. I knew
that that stuff expanded vigorously from experiences with doors [house], tubs,
windows, etc. A little goes a LONG way.

Frankly, I believe that his hood is ruined. The only way to fix it would be to
separate skin from brace, remove the foam, and start over. Even THAT
would leave the metal wavy, likely. Easier to find another hood. Shoulda just
glued it w/ silicone, urethane, etc.

My condolences.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Nov 1997 23:53:41 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Ratty Cutlass

        BTW, don't forget that GM itself put Chevy motors into
Oldsie/Buick/Pontiac cars starting around the mid-late 70s.  And besides, I'm
aiming for a killer project car that nobody else has.  We've already got a
'76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham (same colour as mine even) with a 455 in it
around these parts.
- - --
Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
===================
Yeah, GM did LOTS of stupid shtuff over the years. they put 260's in, too, does
that mean we should imitate them? Of course not!

If you want to show 455-boy the finer points of Olds Power, I suggest you
direct your attentions to a nice 425 mill. That would be the OLDS 425 engine,
of '65-67 vintage. Anyone else have one around there? Thought not.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Nov 1997 23:56:07 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: 260 vac routing

I just joint to club about less than 24hrs ago.
I have 1979 oldsmobile cutlass supreme. I need your helps, I took all
vacuum hoses off during replacing intake manifold, push rods and valve
cover. Now I do not know how to put it back.
    I am more than happy to pay if you could hand draw, pictures, fax, etc.

Here is my car info:
260CID (4.3L) Automatic Trans

My tel: 919-790-6797., fax: 919-790-7156
My address: 4406 Wake Forest rd., 250A
            Raleigh, NC. 27609
- ------------------------------
Welcome

Mistake, removing all them hoses w/o a diagram, eh?

You neglected to specify the car's year and body style, w/ or w/o AC, etc. CA
car, or 49-state?
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Nov 1997 23:59:21 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Post '72 12-bolt rear-end

> Well, by 75 they were only using the 8.5" corporate 10 bolt in the a-bodies..
> and most everything else.. I think only the trucks got 12-bolts after 72.

        Hmm...that's not good...that means that my quest to find a 12-bolt
'73-'77 axle will not come to a successful completion, will it?  Well, how
strong are the 10-bolt ones?  How strong can they be made?  I don't wanna have
to be yankin it every other week with 500+lb/ft going through it. - -- Trevor
Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech Rat-Powered '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/ mailto:lee@mergetel.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Nov 1997 23:59:25 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: brake lite on

My brake indicator light on my 1986 Olds 88 comes on when making a sharp
turn. The dealer tried twice and failed, it's not worth the money to
keep them trying.  They say it is not the brake master cylinder, brake
system or anything but an electrical problem. Can anyone give me a clue
as to what the problem is and how to fix it?
============================

What you got there, son, is a big electron stuck in the electical system. I bet
there's other electrical problems that come & go as well. You need to put in a
filter to trap the larger electrons. The 110V size just do not work well in a
12V system, sometimes they sneak in thru an unfiltered battery charger. ;-)

Or, it could be a loose wire- check near the park brake pedal mechanism.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Nov 1997 23:58:49 -0500 (EST)
From: Patrick Rose <prose@email.unc.edu>
Subject: Re: Hey Stereo Buffs....

> > Also, can someone fill me in on what wire is what? I would like to add
> > rear speakers and I want it to seem factory, you know with one channel
>
> If you want stock looks, the you'll have to do what you'd menioned, and
> sacrifice sound quality.  Of course, if it's in stereo, it's not the
> factory radio anymore, so stock might not be a major concern.
> --
> Charley Buehner         Sidney  Montana
> mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
> http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
> 81 Cutlass 425     Rockit 1
> 70 Buick GS455   BT UR 4D
>                ... The Heartbeat of America???  It's in my mirror.
>
Well, that's just the thing! I'm not sure if it's in stereo (this
is the stock radio that came with the car). On the dial it says "STEREO,"
but where would I connect the second channel? I have spots for two 6x9s in
the back like you said, so that's cool. Let's assume I have the speakers
in the back and I've wired them to the front. This is where I'm totally
lost. There is this blue wire on the side of the radio that wasn't
connected to anything, which I thought was weird. The black wire I thought
went to the antenna, is that the ground, too? So, we have 3 leads (one for
power and 2 for the front speaker), and the mysterious blue wire. I would
just assume by looking at the back that this is just a MONO radio but then
what would be the point of taking the trouble to have it say STEREO on the
face of the dial? I also agree with you that front and back stereo is kind
of goofy-sounding. But hey, why not be different? ;-) Thanks for your
help.



Pat

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 00:05:42 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Re: Ratty Cutlass

> If you want to show 455-boy the finer points of Olds Power, I suggest you
> direct your attentions to a nice 425 mill. That would be the OLDS 425 engine,
> of '65-67 vintage. Anyone else have one around there? Thought not.

        Very good idea, Chris. That would be sweet.  What kinda performance
specs are usually attainable from those engines?  However, how common are they?
I'd be worried about parts availability to tell you the truth.  I've never
really heard too much about the 425 except that I knew it was the 430's
predecessor in the Buick lineup until '66 and I saw Charley's '81 with the 425
SuperRocket - that's the first I read about the Olds 425. - -- Trevor Lee (aka
Screech), Owner - TL Tech Rat-Powered '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/ mailto:lee@mergetel.com

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª946
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