
oldsmobile-digest       Friday, October 17 1997       Volume 01 : Number 909



Re: Computer Command Control 350
Re: Repairing and Paiting Plastic Grilles
Re: rope main seals
Re: no light ????
Re: Computer Command Control 350
Re: Computer Command Control 350
Re: Sway Bars
Re: dessicant?
Hey Mr. Witt, where do you work? (was: Joe's x-ram intake)
Re: Trans Troubles (fwd)
Re: Roller Rockers - Steel Tip Vs. Al 
Re[2]: no light ????
RE: Computer Command Control 350
Re: My Car's on MCC need your Vote 
Transmission Trouble and Rear End
Re: Concerning 350's and 455's
Re: Blown head gaskets on N2O (was: Hey guys!!...)
Re: dessicant?
[none]
RE: Transmission Trouble and Rear End
RE: 70 Delta 88 in AZ
Way far advanced timing on '70 W-30
Junkyard Report
Re: Repairing and Paiting Plastic Grilles
Rocket350's
Emissions...
Re: Rocket350's
unsubscribe
Re: Rocket350's
Re: Repairing and Paiting Plastic Grilles
RE: Transmission Trouble and Rear End
Re: My Car's on MCC need your Vote
Upholstery
Re: Emissions...
Re: rope main seals
uPdAtEd WeB pAgE!!!!
Re: Rocket350's
Re: Junkyard Report
Re: Emissions...
Re: Blown head gaskets on N2O (was: Hey guys!!...)
Re: 70 Delta 88 in AZ
Re: My Car's on MCC need your Vote
Needs Help in England: Wants More Power
Interesing Info on W41s
Re: Rocket350's
trans lines broke
Re: Rocket350's
Re: trans lines broke
Re: motor for sale???????? Geo679
Front Springs for a 65 Cutlass
(no subject)
Re: Rocket350's
Here's what I did (was: trans lines broke)
69 W-30 for sale
new rarity rumor
nitrous
Re: 69 W-30 for sale
Re: Front Springs for a 65 Cutlass
Re: Here's what I did (was: trans lines broke)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 09:38:51 PDT
From: "John Stolarski" <oldscs350@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Computer Command Control 350

>
>I have an 85 Cutlass with a Rocket 350 (77 to be specific) with all the
>CCC from the 307.  It runs and starts fine, gets 18-19 mpg city/highway
>mileage, so no real problems, but when I am passing, the car really is
>not thrilled about revving up in 2nd gear much past 70 mph.  First is
>the same way, But it will see 55 mph in 1st, 70 in second (out of
>breath), allow it to shift and she takes off again.

I'm looking at making this modification, people I have talked to told me 
I should get a high performance chip for the computer so it can handle 
the engine better...I know hypertech makes one for a CS...
That might help some...
John

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 10:50:05 -0600
From: Tim Rudolph <trudolph@frii.com>
Subject: Re: Repairing and Paiting Plastic Grilles

At 10:46 AM 10/16/97 -0400, Robert Barry wrote:
>I know this topic came up before, but I don't recall the definitive answer.
>I've got a less-than-perfect pair of original grilles on my '70 SX, 
<snip>
>As far as painting them is concerned, Krylon Dull-Aluminum seems to be the
>recommended paint, right? Is there any special surface-preparation for
>them, besides making sure they're clean?
<snip>

I'm also interested in painting my grilles as well.  Mine are from a '69
442.  I believe they were originally black, correct?  I'd also be
interested in hearing about surface prep.  Also, what about painting the
headlight bezels, what color would these happen to be, anyone know?

Thanks much,

Tim Rudolph
trudolph@frii.com
'69 442 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 13:10:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: CRuper1@aol.com
Subject: Re: rope main seals

In a message dated 97-10-16 00:15:21 EDT, you write:

<< 
 Subject: rear seal
 
 I"m rebuilding a 69 400 olds the rear main seal i got in the gasket set is a
 rope type.    which i recd 4 pieces 2 of each size. What i took out of the
 engine seems to be a rubber type seal is this correct and how do i install
 these rope type seals
 ================
 The correct thing to do with that rope seal is to install it in the nearest
 circular file [rubbish can].
 
 Get the Ford 460 seal, $7 at the Ford dealer. Get 2 while yer at it. I
install
 the split a teeny bit, about 1/8" offset from the block-cap split. apply the
 thinnest layer of aviation permatex to the seal ends, and oil or grease on
the
 lip. Similar permatex on the #5 main cap at the split. Where it touches the
 block.
 
 --
 Chris  B. Witt >>

I know that everyone says to use the rear main seal from a Ford 460, but has
anyone tried to get one from Victor (the local NAPA store here sells them).
 They wre the only place I found around here which listed (and had) the
rubber type for the 350.  I'll be looking for one in the near future, and
I'll advise all if they have anything listed.

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 13:16:26 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: no light ????

>>I just acquired a second 67' era 4 speed console and I have a question.
>>Both consoles have a lens in the back of the unit but neither one had
>>any form of light assy. What's the story ?????
>
>        The light harnesses are missing. They are all suppose to have the
>light in the rear.

OK, this brings up something puzzling to me. I'm trying to get all the
lights in my SX working again, and when I was looking up the bulbs for the
interior lights, the bulbs for the console storage compartment and the rear
light by the passenger's feet said "automatic only". Might it be that Olds
didn't install these courtesy lights in the MT applications? Does anyone
here have lights on their 4-speed console?
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 13:25:59 -0400 (EDT)
From: CRuper1@aol.com
Subject: Re: Computer Command Control 350

In a message dated 97-10-16 08:39:51 EDT, you write:

<< 
 I have an 85 Cutlass with a Rocket 350 (77 to be specific) with all the
 CCC from the 307.  It runs and starts fine, gets 18-19 mpg city/highway
 mileage, so no real problems, but when I am passing, the car really is
 not thrilled about revving up in 2nd gear much past 70 mph.  First is
 the same way, But it will see 55 mph in 1st, 70 in second (out of
 breath), allow it to shift and she takes off again.  But power is at a
 low eng RPM.  I have a stock THM200C and the Bonneville Salt Flats 2.14
 gears with P205 75 14's.  What rpm should I be at in 2nd at 65-70 mph?
 Should I be running out of breath?  The carb is now a E4ME, as in
 Electric choke, the secondary lockout is defeated as well.  The SHOULD
 be opening.  It is open all the way.  The primary vacuum break is new,
 and a matching one to the electric choke, it opens quickly.  
 
  >>

Now Tom... You haven't been flogging that tranny since you put the motor in,
have you?......  I'd guess it has something to do with the computer control,
or carb set-up, but I have no idea what it may be.  It seemed to run well all
the way up for me (but of course, I had no computer on it, and had a regular
carb on it also.

Hmmm.... thinking about it.... I'd bet the secondaries aren't putting out
enough fuel (too small of a needle).  Think about this...   in first, there
isn't alot of load, so it'll rev nice and freely up to shift point at WOT.
 In second, you're up there quite a ways, it'll start taking more fuel to
push top end.  I'd bet your needles need to be changed to a larger size, to
let in more fuel (it's running lean on top end, and loses it's guts.....).
BTW, I could tell you what I was running for jets, and needles (primary jets
were 68's), but I'd have to check when I get home to see what the secondary
needles are.  I've also got a few needles around, and could let you try a
pair to see how it acts (as I remember right, they all use the same secondary
needles during this time frame).

Any other people care to take a guess at it?.....

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 12:38:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Subject: Re: Computer Command Control 350

Hi Thomas,

> Should I be running out of breath?  The carb is now a E4ME, as in
> Electric choke, the secondary lockout is defeated as well.  The SHOULD

Which secondary metering rods are you using, did you transfer them from
the original carburetor?  The stock 307 ones provide a relatively lean
WOT.  Also, is the air valve hanging due to a misalignment of the blades
or is it all just due to reduced spring tension?  It would be great to
capture some oxygen sensor readings at high RPM under load.

Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 97 13:25:52 EDT
From: Doug Ahern <doug@cobra.cosmic.uga.edu>
Subject: Re: Sway Bars

Dan Lacey <lacey@dsea.com> writes:
>Most places sell sway bars bigger for the front than the rear.
>
>A couple people posted that they used larger bars on the rear than the front.
>
>Any opinions on when to use which setup???

Larger rear sway bars generally result in oversteer, which results in
a very dangerous situation, especially on the street.  It requires
a good bit of driver correction... in extreme situations it requires
turning the wheels in the opposite direction of the turn  (picture
Sprint cars on a dirt oval).  Even in cases where the rear bar
is the same diameter as the front,  a poorly balanced car 
will most likely result.   This isn't fun to drive,  in normal cornering the
front wanders and can be loose feeling.      

I recommend calling Herb Adams if you are considering new sway bars.
He has done a lot of research with RWD GM's (almost exclusively).
Ask the tech support how to match what you have.

Generally, before you add a rear sway bar, you want to swap the
stock front bar for a slightly larger sway bar.

In any case, a larger rear bar doesn't result in better handling,
99% or the time it results in a poor handling car that might not show just
how poorly it handles until its too late.

an evenly balanced car (the goal) has zero understeer and zero oversteer.
Roll Couple Distribution (RCD) is a term used to describe the relationship
of the front's roll rate to the rear's roll rate.  roll rate for either
the front or the rear is the sum or the two spring rates and the sway
bar's rate.  To find the optimum RCD (which will probably be be somewhere
along 75%-85% ), you need to know the front weight bias, or the weight
on the front tires compared to the weight on the rear tires.  

Front Weight Bias       Optimal Roll Couple Dist.
60%                     67%
59                      69
58                      71
57                      73
56                      75
55                      77
54                      79

a higher roll couple results in understeer, a lower roll couple results
in oversteer.

sources:
"How to Make Your Car Handle", Fred Puhn, HP Books
"How to Build the Ultimate Super Street Mopar" Mike Martin, S/A Design
 * although this a mopar book its relevant, suspension theory transcends
   the manufacturer and brand loyalty.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 13:02:42 -0500
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
Subject: Re: dessicant?

> I have had some experiences with WD40 actually causing corrosion.

Really? I think some more specifics are needed here...

>In addition, the Navy won't let their mechanics use that stuff on their
>aircraft for the same reason.

Ditto, although this doesn't surprise me, since it can be pretty
slippery, a bit smelly, and tends to get into more places than you
want it to.

And if someone has a can of the stuff handy, perhaps they could
check the label for us: I don't think using it as an anti-corrosion
spray spray (at least temporarily, anyway) is described as a trick,
but as one intended application of it. It's stated specifically on
their Product Information web page at http://www.nr.net/wd-40/wd40.htm

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 14:04:27 -0400 (EDT)
From: CRuper1@aol.com
Subject: Hey Mr. Witt, where do you work? (was: Joe's x-ram intake)

In a message dated 97-10-16 13:44:08 EDT, you write:

<< To:	wittchri@pilot.msu.edu (me from myself), oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
 
 Joe, you have a cross-ram intake, and the only thing preventing its use is
 dist'r interference?
 
 Wow, I'd be at the mill  modifying a dist'r or fitting a crank-triggered
 system.
 
 Say, this place I work now, they have a large building not being used much
 right now, machine shop area is about 40 x 60 ft., has about 8-10 huge CNC
 mills sitting there idle. Each one holds 60 different tools. So... anybody
 wanna make some billet rocker arm covers? :-) Solid aluminum motor?
 
 --
 Chris  B. Witt >>

So, where do you work?  I work for a place that make "LARGE" milling machine,
and cutting tools for them (among other things).  I've told people that
around here, but things have sorta put a "crimp" on doing government (your
own) work.  It used to be that Sat. nights you could get just about anything
done around here (engine boring wa typical), but not so much anymore....

BTW, what's your definition of "huge".  Around here we make them to be
approx. 30 ft. tall, or so (that is, of course, when they're buried about 6
ft. in the ground), and we've made 'em as high as 60 ft.  So pretty big.

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 14:17:28 -0400 (EDT)
From: CRuper1@aol.com
Subject: Re: Trans Troubles (fwd)

In a message dated 97-10-16 00:37:58 EDT, you write:

<< 
 And as only *my* luck would have it - my '64 is pulling the SAME thing -
 won't shift out of 1st, again no matter how far its wound out (although I'm
 not winding them past - oh 3700 rpm or so) except its the  2 speed and
 looks to have been replaced sometime in the recent past.  Went through all
 the vacuum hookups today and none appeared faulty & out & out replaced the
 VC's.
 
 Any suggestions?!
 
 I'm runnin' out of cars to drive.   <------------
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 
 
 Lisa Madsen >>

That sound almost as bad as if Charley were to run out of cars to drive (I
don't think that's possible though...:-).

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 14:33:48 -0400 (EDT)
From: Oldsnut@aol.com
Subject: Re: Roller Rockers - Steel Tip Vs. Al 

Luke, in my opinion, I do not see the advantage of roller tipped rocker arms.
 The greatest friction would seem to occur in the ball area of the arm, not
in the tip.  The needle bearings in the roller arms wouId provide virtually a
friction free pivot point.  In this case, you get what you pay for.  I hope
this helps.

In a message dated 97-10-14 15:36:17 EDT, you write:

> I have made up my mind to go with some kind of Roller Rocker assembly.
>  The options are:
>  
>  1. Mondello 7200 full roller Al with no machining needed for studs.
>  Doesnt need guide plates and uses std pushrods $399
>  2. Crane Al full roller, includes guideplates and pushrods Jegs $360
>  3. Magnum steel roller tip. Includes guideplates and pushrods. Jegs $300

>  Any one out there know about these things.  Thanks
>  
>  Luke & 71 442

Paul Pate
Mechanical Design Engineer
Port Neches, Texas
70 Cutlass S (350-4V, TH-350, 12-bolt 3.08)
84 Camaro (305-4V, TH-700, 10-bolt 3.08)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 97 14:45:54 -0500
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re[2]: no light ????

OK, this brings up something puzzling to me. I'm trying to get all the 
lights in my SX working again, and when I was looking up the bulbs for the 
interior lights, the bulbs for the console storage compartment and the rear 
light by the passenger's feet said "automatic only". Might it be that Olds 
didn't install these courtesy lights in the MT applications? Does anyone 
here have lights on their 4-speed console? 
     
     Bob,
     
     You are correct.  The 70-72 consoles (which, unlike earlier years, 
     were identical for AT and MT applications) did not incorporate the 
     courtesy lights in the MT version.  The AT consoles used a harness 
     which incorporated the wiring for the shift indicator, the console 
     glovebox internal light, and the courtesy light at the back of the 
     console.  The MT cars (my 70 included) did not include this harness, 
     so naturally, no lights.  I can only guess that there was some concern 
     with the 4 spd shifter mechanism pinching the harness where it came 
     down the console.
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 11:50:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: <the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com>
Subject: RE: Computer Command Control 350

Hope this might help you out some.  What I've got... a 1984 Cutlass
Supreme w/ '74 350 4bbl. TH375 (built) 2.41:1 non posi rear and HEI
distributor and true dual exhaust (no cat).  Nothing on the car is
computer controlled... in fact when installing the motor I got to have
the fun of throwing the old computer box in the air and embedding a
shotgun slug in it ;-).  When I nail it, I can hit second at about 65,
and third at over 100, prob. abt. 100 - 120, without causing the motor
to rev. excessively high.

What mods have you made to your car, I should think that you should be
able to shift within at least 10 mph of what I'm shifting at.  Given
that your rear end is higher than mine (my God, I didn't know they
made a rear end that high... put an overdrive in that puppy  and I bet
you could hit 300... just kidding) you should probably actually be
able to shift at a higher speed than I.  My carb is a quadrajet off of
an early 70's 350 engined GMC pickup... perhaps that has something to
do with it.

Hope you figure out what's wrong.

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu
the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
_____________________________________________________________________
Sent by RocketMail. Get your free e-mail at http://www.rocketmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 11:54:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: <the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: My Car's on MCC need your Vote 

I voted for the '62 Starfire 5 times, and the '70 442 4 times... got
lotsa e-mail accounts ;-).

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu
the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
rknrokt@goplay.com
tool84me@hotmail.com
rovernut@yahoo.com
da__bomb@mailexcite.com
da_bomb@unforgettable.com
...and a couple that I'm not telling you.




_____________________________________________________________________
Sent by RocketMail. Get your free e-mail at http://www.rocketmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 12:11:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: <the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Transmission Trouble and Rear End

Well, you may have read about my earlier tranny troubles that I posted
to the list.  Have decided to wait on the 4-speed :-(.  But I have
decided to go ahead and build the cr*p out of my original TH375 (I'm
going for a full manual conversion this time... how do you like that,
an auto that won't shift for itself... I've been told a couple of
things that it could have been that killed the tranny, so this time,
I'm having a driveshaft professionally cut and balanced (last time, my
friend's papaw did it, and even though the balance was near perfect,
it ended up being about an inch or so too short).  I'm also going to
install a trans. cooler out of a full size Bronco.  Finally, and here
is the _BIG_ one, I ordered a 3.73:1 Richmond gear set yesterday for
her!  I do need some advice on one thing though.  I've got a stock
TH375 torque converter I can use, and I also have a high (abt.
3000rpm) stall torque converter for a TH350... which should I use? 
The 350's 'verter _does_ bolt up to a TH375, but are there any other
differences between the two 'verters that I should be aware of?  Can I
get some opinions from you?  I would like a high stall 'verter, but I
can't afford to buy one (what with the rear end and all).

Thanks,
Peace,Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu
the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
_____________________________________________________________________
Sent by RocketMail. Get your free e-mail at http://www.rocketmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 05:36:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: Concerning 350's and 455's

- --Cnvrtbl442@aol.com wrote:
I have both, a 350 and a 455, both warmed over and both in 68 Converts.

!!!!!!!!!!!!!
What cam are you using in the 350? My 70 'S' is slated to get the 4
speed and 3.08 anti-spin rear from one of my parts cars......still
trying to decide on a cam for the soon-to-be-rebuilt 350!

===
John Pajak                            JSPajak@rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland  HTTP://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

65 Delta 88 2dr    70 Cutlass S 2dr       72 Cutlass conv   
66 Toronado deluxe 70 Cutlass S W31       72 Delta 88 conv
69 Cutlass S 2dr   70 442 W30 conv        72 442 W30 conv 
70 Cutlass S 2dr   71 Cutlass Supreme 2dr 86 Cutlass Supreme


 

_____________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 15:24:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: CRuper1@aol.com
Subject: Re: Blown head gaskets on N2O (was: Hey guys!!...)

In a message dated 97-10-16 09:53:16 EDT, you write:

<< 
 Stock fuel system......I guess my question is answered
 My christmas list includes a fuel cell, a couple of pumps and a retard box
 ----------
 > > Hey fellers,
 > > I've got a 70 supreme with a 455,9.75 compression and 250hp nos system
 > > blows head gaskets all day long.......why??  Eric Phillips
 > 
 > I'd guess that you're getting detonation from leaning the engine out too
 > much with the N2O shot. What does your normal cranking compression read
 in
 > your cylinders ? What is your fuel delivery system to the nitrous
 system's
 > fuel solenoid ? If it has replaceable fuel jets (which I'd assume most
 > 250hp kits would) have you tried richening the mixture ? What octane fuel
 > are you running ? How much timing ? Are you running a retard box to pull
 > back timing when the N2O system activates ?
 > 
 > Rich >>

Isn't it one rule that when running a good sized nitrous package, that you
have a dual fuel system (one for the motor, one for richening when on the
nitrous system)?

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 16:16:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jon442@aol.com
Subject: Re: dessicant?

In a message dated 97-10-16 15:14:13 EDT, you write:

<< I've got about 800 lbs of desiccant laying around my lab.  If you're
 in the Chicago area I'd be more than happy to give you a gallon jug that
 will more than serve your needs.  If not, call the place you're having
 coat your parts and ask them what is acceptable.  If they'll take 'em
 with minor surface oxidation or with a light coat of oil or WD-40 just
 do that.  Anyway, the offer stands.  Later. >>

Rats... I was just in Chicago two weeks ago... LOL. Anyway, thanks for the
offer. I called the powder coater, and he said to just wipe them down with a
light coat of motor oil. He said absolutely NOT to use WD-40, since it messed
up his equipment.

Thanks,

Jon

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 20:50:55 GMT
From: Terry Ford <terry@trades.net>
Subject: [none]

unsubscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 16:57:34 -0400
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: Transmission Trouble and Rear End

> Clayton,
	please let us know how those new 3.73 gears work. What's the
gear size you have now? 

Fernando Proietto
Systems Analyst - Informatics

Environment Canada
Ontario Region - Monitoring & Systems Branch
4905 Dufferin St. 
Downsview, Ontario
M3H 5T4

> ----------
> From:
> the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com[SMTP:the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com]
> Sent: 	Thursday, October 16, 1997 3:11 PM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Transmission Trouble and Rear End
> 
> Well, you may have read about my earlier tranny troubles that I posted
> to the list.  Have decided to wait on the 4-speed :-(.  But I have
> decided to go ahead and build the cr*p out of my original TH375 (I'm
> going for a full manual conversion this time... how do you like that,
> an auto that won't shift for itself... I've been told a couple of
> things that it could have been that killed the tranny, so this time,
> I'm having a driveshaft professionally cut and balanced (last time, my
> friend's papaw did it, and even though the balance was near perfect,
> it ended up being about an inch or so too short).  I'm also going to
> install a trans. cooler out of a full size Bronco.  Finally, and here
> is the _BIG_ one, I ordered a 3.73:1 Richmond gear set yesterday for
> her!  I do need some advice on one thing though.  I've got a stock
> TH375 torque converter I can use, and I also have a high (abt.
> 3000rpm) stall torque converter for a TH350... which should I use? 
> The 350's 'verter _does_ bolt up to a TH375, but are there any other
> differences between the two 'verters that I should be aware of?  Can I
> get some opinions from you?  I would like a high stall 'verter, but I
> can't afford to buy one (what with the rear end and all).
> 
> Thanks,
> Peace,Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
> Clayton Pierce,
> zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu
> the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
> _____________________________________________________________________
> Sent by RocketMail. Get your free e-mail at http://www.rocketmail.com
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 16:48:22 -0500
From: "David Brown (the Olds FAQ compiler)" <dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: RE: 70 Delta 88 in AZ

I picked up the phone number from the list - thanks to the poster - 
and asked my sister in law to call on this car (it's a 2 door 70 D88) 
- - all I know so far is that the car is supposed to be in near perfect 
shape.  Sister in law will go drive the car tomorrow, and report 
back.  Asking price is $2500.  I'm assuming mileage on car is plus 
100K as AZ cars are typically driven many miles.  Any thoughts from 
the list on value?  I'm suggesting offering $1600 for a quick sale 
and see what happens.  I'd fly to Tucson and drive east this winter.

David Wilk
- ----------
Sounds nice. I think I know the answer already, but you are going to
keep this car out of the salt, right?
- -- 
David Brown     Mailto:dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 16:50:55 -0500
From: Mike Schlottman <mschlott@mailhost.rsn.hp.com>
Subject: Way far advanced timing on '70 W-30

I'll preface this story by identifying my car.  It is a '70
442/455/TH400/3.23.  The engine was built last year by a less than
reputable olds restoration shop.  The owner told me that the cam was the
correct cam for a 70 w-30.


This past weekend I changed the plugs in my '70 442.  BTW, thanks for
the tips about removing the number 8 plug from below.  That plug only
took about 5 minutes to replace.

Anyway while doing this I decided to check my timing.  Normaly I never
check my timing.  I set my idle then advance the distributer until the
engine starts to idle rough, then  I retard it untill it smoothes back
out.  Sometimes I'll connect a vacuum guage and use that to find the
peak point of vacuum.  Using this method my car has run fine.  No
detonation as long as I run 93 octane.

Well this time I borowed a timing light and found that my timing mark on
the balancer was on the passenger side of the water pump.  This looked
like my timing was about 30 degrees advanced at Idle with the vacuum
disconnected.  My first thought was that the balancer had come apart and
the timing mark had moved, so I pulled the number 1 plug, found top dead
center and the timing mark lined up with 0 degrees on the timng chain
cover.

This can't be right.  I've never seen a car that would run this far
advanced.  I tried setting the timing closer to 12 degrees BTDC but it
would not run without turning the slow idle screw all the way in.  

The engine has about 10 K miles on it and has alwase run fine other than
using oil.  It runs the kind of speeds a w-30 should allthough I have
never had it on the track.  

All this makes me belive that the cam was installed 1 tooth advanced. 
Can anyone back up this suspicion or have any other ideas?  If the cam
is the problem I'll ignore it for the next 50K miles or so.  Unless my
curiosity realy gets to me. :)

Any of you North Texas olds guys wana loan me an engine while I satisfy
my curiosity. :)

	Happy Oldsmobiling

	mike

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 16:56:53 -0500
From: Mike Schlottman <mschlott@mailhost.rsn.hp.com>
Subject: Junkyard Report

Anyone in the North Texas area interested in a mailing list to
communitcate Junkyard finds.  I like to spend time looking for parts in
my area.  I often find cars that other people might be interested in and
would love to hear from anyone looking for specific parts or letting me
know what they found.

I don't think it would be appropriate to mail local information like
this to everyone on the oldsmobile list.  If you are interested or have
any ideas to add, drop me a line at mschlott@olds442.rsn.hp.com.

	mike

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 18:26:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: DEOVIVERE@aol.com
Subject: Re: Repairing and Paiting Plastic Grilles

In a message dated 97-10-16 14:35:19 EDT, you write:

<< I'm also interested in painting my grilles as well.  Mine are from a '69
 442.  I believe they were originally black, correct?  I'd also be
 interested in hearing about surface prep.  Also, what about painting the
 headlight bezels, what color would these happen to be, anyone know?
  >>

For grilles, I like Krylon's Dull Aluminum and for bezels, I've found that
Eastwood's Reflective Aluminum paint simulates the aluminum look well, as do
most "chrome" paints.  

Tom Simmons
71 SX (for sale) and (soon) 70 SX W-32

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 15:26:57 PDT
From: "John Stolarski" <oldscs350@hotmail.com>
Subject: Rocket350's

Is there actually and engine put out that was called a Rocket350? I 
don't see anything about it in the FAQ's...if so, whats the specs on 
it...would it be the '69 350 with 325hp @ 10.25 compression?
Thanks for teachin me gang...
John

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 15:33:32 PDT
From: "John Stolarski" <oldscs350@hotmail.com>
Subject: Emissions...

Heres something I've been pondering...I know that everyone live in 
diffrent states, and some of you lucky bumbs don't have to worry about 
emissions...I wish I were you! I live in Maryland...heres the question, 
I heard that I could possibly get by emissions if I put in an older 
block, because I will be judged by the year of my engine, not my car...I 
SEVERELY doubt this to be true...it would be nice though...and comments?

John

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 19:46:13 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Rocket350's

I think most of this is in the FAQ, but all Olds V-8s (except, I guess, 
the 215-V8 from '61 to '63, which was based on a Buick motor) are known 
as "Rocket" V-8s. They were introduced in the 1949 model year. The first 
design evolved over the years from 1949 and was last used in the '64 
full-size cars. Over the years this was produced in 303, 324, 371 and 
394-inch displacements (am I leaving any out?). 

In '64 the next-generation Rocket small-block was introduced and came in
displacements of 330, 350, 403, 260, and 307 cubic inches over the years.
In '65 the Rocket big-block came out as a 425-incher, and was expanded to
455 inches for '68. This was in production until 1876. The last of the
small-blocks (a 307) was built in 1990. 

It gets confusing because in the late 60s and early 70s all GM car divisions 
except Cadillac produced a 350-inch V-8. All were different designs. So 
if it's an Olds 350, it's a Rocket 350. To confuse matters more, in '77 
Olds installed some Ch*vy 350s in cars because they ran out of production 
capacity for the Rocket, and that caused some problems when it became 
known. 

There is a section in the fact on how to identify Rocket V-8s so I won't 
repeat that here. Hope this helps.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 18:49:03 -0400
From: Joe Artwell <tjf26@gte.net>
Subject: unsubscribe



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 19:52:44 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Rocket350's

I know, I know... the 455 was in production until *1976*... :)

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 19:15:32 -0700
From: "David, Terri and Rob" <hoagie@emeraldis.com>
Subject: Re: Repairing and Paiting Plastic Grilles

Robert Barry wrote:
> 
> I know this topic came up before, but I don't recall the definitive answer.
> I've got a less-than-perfect pair of original grilles on my '70 SX, but I'd
> like to make them last until the restoration bug hits me and I find money
> for a pair of NOS ones.
> 
> As far as painting them is concerned, Krylon Dull-Aluminum seems to be the
> recommended paint, right? Is there any special surface-preparation for
> them, besides making sure they're clean?
> 
> Before I paint them, though, I'd like to repair a couple cracks. What kind
> of adhesive would be best for this kind of plastic? What kind of plastic is
> this, anyway?
> 
> Any and all suggestions welcome.
> __________________________________________________________
> Bob Barry            MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> 
> 1969 Toronado            455/TH425
>      See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
> 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX  455/TH400
> 1978 Electra Limited     409/TH400

I also have a Cutlass SX convertible....I ordered brand new grilles from 
Year One...didn't like the tone of the grey that they came with...I shot 
them with Rustoleum Bright Silver Paint...which is waht we use on all 
our signal equipment (I'm a signal manitainer for CSX Transportation 
Railroad) and it looks Fantastic I also did the headlight plastic around 
the headlights and it all matched perfectly....I also sandblasted the 
rear end completely and painted it with the same and added a 12 bolt 
W-27 rear cover from Year One...now I get compliments on the 
undercarriage all the time...and I like the way it looks when the light 
reflects all around the rear end area...Hoagie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 19:28:49 -0500 (EST)
From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Subject: RE: Transmission Trouble and Rear End

On Thu, 16 Oct 1997, Proietto, Fernando [Ontario] wrote:

> > Clayton,
> 	please let us know how those new 3.73 gears work. What's the
> gear size you have now? 

Airplane gears (aka 2.41:1).  I liked what that guy with the 85 called
them earlier, Bonneville gears ;-) and interestingly enough, my car _will_
do upwards of 150 (probably closer to 200) with them).  I think that it
will definitely be worth it though, as it is now, it's tough to even
power-brake my car with those 2.41:1's, even with the 350 4bb. under the
hood.  I'm guessing that if I dragged it now, I would find that I get poor
numbers, but high trap speeds... this should fix that!

The gears will just have to remain non-posi until I can find a really
cheap posi unit somewhere... as I'll already have the gears, finding one
should be that much easier.

Peace,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.edu
the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com

> 
> Fernando Proietto
> Systems Analyst - Informatics
> 
> Environment Canada
> Ontario Region - Monitoring & Systems Branch
> 4905 Dufferin St. 
> Downsview, Ontario
> M3H 5T4
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 18:54:51 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: My Car's on MCC need your Vote

Mick Gillespie, Columbus, Indiana
69 Cutlass S convertible
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm
- -----Original Message-----
From: Doug Newman <dnewman@wcbi.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, October 16, 1997 1:33 AM
Subject: Re: My Car's on MCC need your Vote


Count another for Larry. The split concept didn't work last week. Bob
Handren's 67 442 won and my 69 came in second. Thanks for all the
votes. MCC is going to wonder what hit them with all the Olds showing
up (and winning) :-).
>
>Yeah, I voted for Larry's '62, also.  I believe Greg B. was right:
they're
>placing two Olds on the page to split the vote.  (At least I THINK it
was
>Greg B. :-)
>
>Doug Newman
>Columbus, MS
>1987 442
>
>http://www.442.com/newman.html   (Updated by Bryceman 9/18/97)
>http://wcbi.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 20:09:27 -0400 (EDT)
From: Clbitz@aol.com
Subject: Upholstery

I'm in need of some upholstery information for my front seats.
I have a 1988 Olds Touring Sedan.
GM upholstery book show leathers on my bucket seats but not the inserts.
The inserts have a texture (pattern holes).
I have the 18 way power seats.
Thanks 
Roger Bitzer

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 20:15:38 -0400
From: Jason Labay <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Subject: Re: Emissions...

At 03:33 PM 10/16/97 PDT, you wrote:
>Heres something I've been pondering...I know that everyone live in 
>diffrent states, and some of you lucky bumbs don't have to worry about 
>emissions...I wish I were you! I live in Maryland...heres the question, 
>I heard that I could possibly get by emissions if I put in an older 
>block, because I will be judged by the year of my engine, not my car...I 
>SEVERELY doubt this to be true...it would be nice though...and comments?

In Ohio it goes by the year of the car, not the motor. I think that is the
general rule of thumb for most states. I ran an 82 motor in an 88 car and
passed emissions fine.

____________________________________________
Jason Labay - Quality Engineer - TRW Automotive Group
z28cfi@gwis.com  Akron, OH        
95 DCM Impala SS.....14.66 @ 95.5 ; 1.917 60 ft ; 4400lbs
80 Olds 442 W-30.......15.70 @ 88.7 ; 2.200 60 ft ; 3300lbs
75 Hurst/Olds W-25 - (2)..one parts car, one resto car
85 S-10 Blazer 4x4.......work truck, 1,625 watt sound system

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 20:22:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: Re: rope main seals

Just to clarify, the Mondello neoprene seal IS the F*RD part, number/logo and
all.
It's now ~$15 from JM and ~$12 at F*rd....

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 20:25:17 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: uPdAtEd WeB pAgE!!!!

Whoa! Caught your attention, huh!

I've made an update to my page. I have listed, as far as my current
knowledge goes, everything I'm doing to my car. Go check it out.

BTW- My Guestbook is lookin pretty SAD with only 7 entries, maybe YOU
could do something about it.....please?.....(hint, hint)
- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 20:27:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rocket350's

yes there is such thing as a rocket 350.  my 73 cutlass origionally came with
one.  there was a decal on the air cleaner lid that said "oldsmobile rocket
350"

mikey tvb@aol.com
73 cutlass w/403

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 20:28:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dan442Olds@aol.com
Subject: Re: Junkyard Report

I'm close to Lubbock.  Which part of North Texas are you?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 17:37:17 -0700
From: Erik Nowacki <enowacki@titan.com>
Subject: Re: Emissions...

At 03:33 PM 10/16/97 PDT, you wrote:
>Heres something I've been pondering...I know that everyone live in 
>diffrent states, and some of you lucky bumbs don't have to worry about 
>emissions...I wish I were you! I live in Maryland...heres the question, 
>I heard that I could possibly get by emissions if I put in an older 
>block, because I will be judged by the year of my engine, not my car...I 
>SEVERELY doubt this to be true...it would be nice though...and comments?
>
I don't know about Maryland, but here in California the rule is that if you
put in a new engine, it has to be the same year as the car or newer and you
have to satisfy the smog requirements for the year of the engine.  For
example, if I wanted to convert my VC to front wheel drive and install a
1990 Quad4, I would have to meet 1990 smog requirements.  I would not be
allowed to install a 1971 engine in my car since it is a 1972 model
(although I don't think anyone would notice).

That's the rule in California, it may or not be the same in Maryland.  I
was just liberated from the smog requirement, that is a great feeling.  

Erik Nowacki
San Diego
72 Vista Cruiser

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 20:58:38 -0400
From: Rich Inacker <rinacker@voicenet.com>
Subject: Re: Blown head gaskets on N2O (was: Hey guys!!...)

>Stock fuel system......I guess my question is answered

Yup. The volume from the stock mechanical pump just isn't enough. Actually,
you're probably lucky you detonated and only lost head gaskets. A melted
piston  would be a distinct possibility.

>My christmas list includes a fuel cell, a couple of pumps and a retard box

And some nice big fuel line to go with it. Geez, you're going to give Santa
a hernia. :-)

Rich

- -----
rinacker@voicenet.com (Rich Inacker)
http://www.voicenet.com/~rinacker

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 21:14:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: David1756@aol.com
Subject: Re: 70 Delta 88 in AZ

In a message dated 97-10-16 17:42:29 EDT, you write:

> Sounds nice. I think I know the answer already, but you are going to
>  keep this car out of the salt, right?
>  -- 
>  David Brown  

Yes, I mean no snow.

Further update on the 70 D88, it is a 2 door with 350.  Triple green.  Bob
Barry are you listening, same color scheme as the 69 Toro I sold you, same as
my last 442, I am doomed to buy green Oldsmobiles.  118,000 miles and all
mechanical work has been done within last 15K miles.  Pretty basic Olds.
 Sister in law who is not a car person is going to see it tomorrow, if I buy
it will be sight unseen.  I still think $1600 is a pretty good place to
start, but how high should we go?

It is 1786 miles and four easy or three long days driving Tucson to Chicago,
so this is a big commitment.  Any volunteers?

David Wilk
OCA 4517

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 97 21:27:08 -0500
From: Mike Hall <oldsmike@flash.net>
Subject: Re: My Car's on MCC need your Vote

Brent Pinkstaff wrote:
>>    Here is the address to vote.........
>>     " http://www.myclassiccar.com/gallery/gallery.shtml "
>>       6    2    S    T    A    R    F    I    R    E
>>
>Got my vote!

Got my vote, too!




Michael R. Hall: OCA #17903                    Ortonville, Michigan
Home E-Mail: oldsmike@flash.net
The Ever-Growing Oldsmobile Stable:
1971 Oldsmobile 442    
1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
1987 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Custom Cruiser
1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 21:31:51 -0400
From: "Bradford W. Nicholson" <brad442@erols.com>
Subject: Needs Help in England: Wants More Power

Got this through the OCA web site.  I told the gentleman to join the
digest, but reply to him directly at adrian.carroll@virgin.net
Thanks, you guys know more about the ways to get power out of these
engines than I do.  I also do not know what the engine is put in but he
has it connected to a T5 trans!!
==========================================
Subject: Re: help
Date:    Thu, 16 Oct 1997 20:26:42 +0100
From:    ADRIAN CARROLL <adrian.carroll@virgin.net>
To:      brad442@erols.com

ADRIAN CARROLL wrote:
i live in england and have a problem with a tuned 350 olds . could you
suggest any one that could be of assistace. many thanks adrian.

BRAD NICHOLSON WROTE:
Adrian,
Could you give me a few more specifics about the vehicle such as: Year,
Model, Engine Type, Displacement, Carburated or Fuel Injected,
Transmission, Mileage and a description of the problem.  I have never
heard of a "tuned" 350 olds, but then again I'm always learning.  If you
supply the needed info, I'll try to direct you to someone who may be
able to assist you.
 ---
| | | Brad Nicholson
| | | 1987 442 W-42
|/|\| 1994 Eight Eight LSS
| | | Oldsmobile Club of America #18984
 ---  Oldsmobile Centennial Club - MD
e-Mail: brad442@erols.com
Personal Web Site - http://www.erols.com/brad442
Official OCA Web Site - http://www.erols.com/brad442/ocaBradford W.
Nicholson wrote:

> ADRIAN CARROLL wrote back:

Oldsmobile   350 ci
bore  4.057 +30thou  4.087
stroke               3.385
deck height          0.005
head gasket          0.040
piston dish           10cc
head volume           70cc   machined
cylinders              8no

heads                  3A      small block
valves  inlet       1.875      45 degree
        exhaust             1.500      30  degree

exhaust   1 ¾    headers   4into 1     2 no 2 ½  exhausts  into   2no
hedman  turbo   mufflers
ignition recurved       HEI.  Distributor            timing   7 degree
800 revs

camshaft comp  cams            270 
lift    .501  inlet  exhaust
1;6   rocker ratio     adjustable   comp cams
timing  .006        int  29 btdc     61 abdc
                           exh 69 bbdc    21 atdc 
106  intake centre line
duration at .050          224  224 
lobe separation           110


matching springs   caps   shimmed to correct  installation  height
inlet  manifold  edlebrock   performer
carb  holly   600 vac sec
              63  main 
              71  sec
power valve   yellow sec spring.
Power off rolling road  which is only capable of 220 bhp
220 bhp at wheels  5000rpm.
176 bhp  at        3100rpm
I would expect  more  bhp  ? 
the gearbox   is a B W  T5 gear / back axle ratio 3.54 :1
36 mph /1000 rpm 5th
at the moment  0 -60   just under 6 sec
I was expecting  4 -5 secs
power on cam over 5000 rpm  very strong    and fast.                
I am looking to achieve 0 - 60   in about 4 .5 sec. 
Is the problem the  cam or the what is to be expected.  What suggestions
could you recommend.
 
If this is not possible  with this engine    would a 2v 351 c ford  
suitably equipped far better. 
Many thanks 
adrian carroll. <adrian.carroll@virgin.net>
==========================================
 ---
| | | Brad Nicholson
| | | 1987 442 W-42
|/|\| 1994 Eight Eight LSS
| | | Oldsmobile Club of America #18984
 ---  Oldsmobile Centennial Club - MD
e-Mail: brad442@erols.com
Official OCA Web Site - http://www.erols.com/brad442/oca

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 21:44:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: NotDads442@aol.com
Subject: Interesing Info on W41s

I finally got the info on how to figure out which number in the production
order our cars fall !!!!!!!!!  The catch is you have to have your window
sticker.  Now I'm lucking enough to have mine.  I think this method should
work for all W41 and W40 cars.  

Get your sticker and look at the very bottom, under the gas mileage box.
 Look at the bottom of the form under the Highway mileage numbers.  In very
small print you will find the words "ORDER NO" ,  to the right of that you
will see W41 followed by 3 or 4 numbers depending upon the year of your car.
 For example mine,is W41142.  Mine is the 142nd W41 car out of 204.  Now the
quest begins.....Who has the lowest number????

Let us all know!

I got this info from a guy in Wisconsin who is trying to sell his W41 Calais.
 It's Red/Grey with 5000 miles.  He asking $14000.  His is #105.  I asked and
he agreed to allow me to post his name and # to all of you.  Troy Provost
(715) 682-5747 and is located in Ashland Wisconsin.  The standard disclaimers
here.  Don't know the car etc.....  Do tell him where you found out about the
car, I found it on a web page while searching for W41 and Olds.  He doesn't
have a computer but seemed very  interested in the Olds list.  I told him
about the wealth of info that the members have and about the different web
pages with info about Olds info(442.com etc...).  

Troy also mentioned something about 200 1987 1/2 Calais GTs that were made
with the Quad4 before any other GM cars in 1988.  Anybody ever see or hear
about these????  Please let me know if you have.  I think I've seen one
before but I'm not sure.  Troy says they were all Black with gold stripes and
lettering.  Troy also told me that all of W41 Calais were Red.  I thought
some were black.  Anybody ever see any other color on a W41 Calais???  I've
seen red/white/blue on SCX Acheivas but nothing but Red on the W41 Calais.

Gotta Go
Cecil
1991 W41
OCA #29604

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 08:46:29 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: Rocket350's

>
>I think most of this is in the FAQ, but all Olds V-8s (except, I guess,
>the 215-V8 from '61 to '63, which was based on a Buick motor) are known
>as "Rocket" V-8s. They were introduced in the 1949 model year. The first
>design evolved over the years from 1949 and was last used in the '64
>full-size cars. Over the years this was produced in 303, 324, 371 and
>394-inch displacements (am I leaving any out?).

These aluminum V8's were called Rockette's.  That is close.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama
>
>In '64 the next-generation Rocket small-block was introduced and came in
>displacements of 330, 350, 403, 260, and 307 cubic inches over the years.
>In '65 the Rocket big-block came out as a 425-incher, and was expanded to
>455 inches for '68. This was in production until 1876.

Wasn't it a little later than that?

>
>Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia,
Canada
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 20:57:28 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: trans lines broke

I seem to have sprung a leak in my trainy lines when I was doing my 
engine swapout in my 77 cutlass, anyone know a quick fix for this or 
do I have to "persuede" them in and out of my engine.

- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 19:19:57 PDT
From: "John Stolarski" <oldscs350@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Rocket350's

OK, I just thought there might have been a special Olds 350 HO version 
called a Rocket, but they all are...because they're 
Olds...Cool...thanks...
John


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 22:21:24 -0400
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: Re: trans lines broke

> I seem to have sprung a leak in my trainy lines when I was doing my 
> engine swapout in my 77 cutlass, anyone know a quick fix for this or 
> do I have to "persuede" them in and out of my engine.
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
	To do it right, use a compression fitting if the leak is in a "flat" area.
Otherwise, use the "hunk of vacuum hose" method and keep your fingers
crossed


						The General

"I would rather have a loyal subordinate to a good one any day"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 22:31:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: AllNiteLng@aol.com
Subject: Re: motor for sale???????? Geo679

         Would you be interested in an '80 Diesel? 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 22:45:07 -0400 (EDT)
From: DEOVIVERE@aol.com
Subject: Front Springs for a 65 Cutlass

Hi All -

I am planning on putting a set of fresh springs into a 65 Cutlass to firm
things up a little.  I'd like to put some 442 springs in it, but am unsure
where to obtain them.  Year One offers their own, apparantly custom-made
springs, but the price seems high at $140.

Any suggestions?

Tom Simmons

   71 SX (for sale)
   70 SX W-32 (will take possession when I sell the 71)
   65 Cutlass Coupe (daily driver)

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Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 22:50:53 -0400
From: Geno <the_man@geocities.com>
Subject: (no subject)

subscribe oldsmobile-digest

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Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 22:59:20 -0400
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: Rocket350's

John Stolarski wrote:
> 
> Is there actually and engine put out that was called a Rocket350? I
> don't see anything about it in the FAQ's...if so, whats the specs on
> it...would it be the '69 350 with 325hp @ 10.25 compression?
> Thanks for teachin me gang...
> John

The term "Rocket" means that the engine was designed and built by
Oldsmobile, to make a long story a short one.  "Rocket" was nothing more
than a sales pitch, like the new Ch*v trucks are using "Vortec" engines,
and the new F*rds (junk!) are using "Triton" engines.

The '69 350 you mentioned is one of the Rockets, and it's the high
performance 350.  I've got a Rocket 350 in my '78 Delta 88, and it's in
the 175-185hp range...the compression is only 8.5 (I think), where as
the other one is 10.25.  I wonder where I could find one of these...

S. Dave Ward

'78 Delta 88 (350 4bbl.)
'85 Delta 88 (307 4bbl.)
'91 GMC 4x4  (305 TBI)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 23:08:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: CRuper1@aol.com
Subject: Here's what I did (was: trans lines broke)

In a message dated 97-10-16 22:18:31 EDT, you write:

<< 
 I seem to have sprung a leak in my trainy lines when I was doing my 
 engine swapout in my 77 cutlass, anyone know a quick fix for this or 
 do I have to "persuede" them in and out of my engine.
 
 - >>

Are you saying the line is actually leaking, or that the fitting is?  When I
did my engine swap, I replaced my metal trans lines with gas line hose (think
that's what it was...).  I've got a fitting with a short section of tubing
coming out of both fittings on the trans (they get me closer to the frame,
and go around the exhaust manifold/pipes in that area), then I have the two
rubber (or whatever) trans lines, then there's the same type of connection on
the radiator (short section of tubing, and the fitting at both connections).
 I've flared the sections of tubing ever so slightly, and filed them down (to
remove sharp edges), and then used hose clamps on them to hold to the tubing.
 Since the tube is flared, the connection won't come apart, and these are
much easier to "deal with/route/and make look nice" than the regular tubing.

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 97 15:14:04 GMT
From: Wolfhaven1@centuryinter.net
Subject: 69 W-30 for sale

Hi Guys:

I really hate to do this, but it has become necessary to part company with my 
baby. I've owned her for over 20 years, and for the lack of a better reason 
that I will admit to, I no longer have the time to finish her.

  Here's the stats:

     1969 4-4-2 W-30 Convertible. Approx. 34000 original miles. 400 cid 
ram-air/cold air. Body work done, new rear quarters & trunk. Paint, original 
color, blue with a double white stripe on the hood. Paint is ok, not 5 star, 
but it looks good. some driveway dings in it now, minor.  Engine is out, & on a 
stand, where it has been for about 8 years. Heads are off and done...stainless 
guides etc... in storage. Block needs some serious TLC. 3 pistons stuck in 
cylinders from rust. Other pistons out. Bottom end should be ok. I don't even 
remember why we tore it down. 69 Camaro 6 cyl. under the hood now, so it can be 
driven - just not at Mach 2. T-10 4 speed (shifter sez 4-4-2) White interior, 
not bad, no carpet (F***ing CAT died on the back seat during winter!) Some 
extra parts, all original parts in and around here in boxes. Copy of original 
window sticker, some original paperwork with original owners name etc.. Came 
from the factory with a 4:33 rear end - I changed it to a 3:42 so it would go 
FASTER! It worked... she really used to eat em' up! Cops couldn't even  catch 
us. SS I wheels (no trim ring - chrome wheel)

  In 1985 Automotive Information Clearing House certified it as an original 
FACTORY W-30, not a dealer add-on. They valued it back then (Completed) at 
$25000.00. It, at the time was one of 41 left in the country and one of 2 in 
Ohio, according to them. I have the paperwork.  She's a rare bird.
 
  I'd like to ask $8500.00 for it, but I will entertain offers. We have to move 
her quick, so if anyone is interested, private e-mail me at my home e-mail -  
Wolfhaven1@Centuryinter.net.
                      ******* NOTE ********
 I WILL NOT sell this car to some kid. Period. I don't want to hear about her 
jacked up with a 500 watt stereo in back. She should be restored and driven. 
Well, driven fast, but not with godzilla tires & purple paint. 

Thanks, Andy  

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 23:11:59 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: new rarity rumor

Speaking of rare parts, factory experimental stuff...

My brother says that a black dude he spoke with at the centennial claims that
they made about 100 *aluminum* tri-carb intakes.

Same casting, different material.

There's a prize to pine for. Ya just never know where ya gonna find something
like that.

- --
Chris  B. Witt
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 20:16:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jack Karamanos <jalkara@whidbey.net>
Subject: nitrous

read page 10 of mondello's tech book.  i don't know if you could copy out
of his book without permission.  it talks about nitrous.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 23:33:26 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: 69 W-30 for sale

Wolfhaven1@centuryinter.net wrote:
> 
> Hi Guys:
> 
> I really hate to do this, but it has become necessary to part company with my
> baby. I've owned her for over 20 years, and for the lack of a better reason
> that I will admit to, I no longer have the time to finish her.
Andy,

Sounds like a fun ride when completed.  I have a 69 S 4spd conv project
now.  They would look good side by side finished.  Had to buy a newer
daily driver for my youngest daughter last week, so no funds for fun
currently.  Sure hope someone on the list buys it though.  Agree with
you about the purple and the oversized boom box.  When these kids get
50+ years old the hearing aid people will get rich.  Good luck. 

Don Sowers

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 23:43:40 -0400
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: Re: Front Springs for a 65 Cutlass

> I am planning on putting a set of fresh springs into a 65 Cutlass to firm
> things up a little.  I'd like to put some 442 springs in it, but am
unsure
> where to obtain them.  Year One offers their own, apparantly custom-made
> springs, but the price seems high at $140.
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
	This may sound overly simple but does your local parts house have a
listing ???????

					The General

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 21:58:22 -0600
From: Terrance Rohner <tthiel@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Here's what I did (was: trans lines broke)

CRuper1@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 97-10-16 22:18:31 EDT, you write:
> 
> <<
>  I seem to have sprung a leak in my trainy lines when I was doing my
>  engine swapout in my 77 cutlass, anyone know a quick fix for this or
>  do I have to "persuede" them in and out of my engine.
> 
>  - >>

That's simple just solder them. real easy. just get one of those little
propane torches and some flux and solder and your all set.


                Terrance

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #909
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