
oldsmobile-digest       Monday, October 13 1997       Volume 01 : Number 903



Re: rear seal
Re: Rebuild Parts List
Re: Dual-Snorkel Air Cleaner
Headers?
Re: The list people and their cars
Re: ('77+ B/C/D waterleak)
71 442 convertible rear speaker help
CDL is here!!
RE: READ ME...questioning authority
Re: Dual-Snorkel Air Cleaner
RE: New gas tanks prep
Re: 71 442 convertible rear speaker help
Re: READ ME...questioning authority
Re: Old Car Magazines
Re: Concerning 350's and 455's
Re: Concerning 350's and 455's
350 Head Gaskets
Re: CCR All Olds Show
Re: FS:1980 Olds Cutlass Supreme (fwd)
Re: 350 Head Gaskets
RE: Automatic Trainy ID, FYI
RE: Next FAQ Release
Re: Electrical Help Please
Cool Brake Tricks
Re: Concerning 350's and 455's
Re: READ ME...questioning authority
Re: Experimental Engines (was: Old Car Magazines)
Re: Concerning 350's and 455's
Re: 65 442 performance
Junk Yard Stuff
Re: California events
Re: Concerning 350's and 455's
Re: Illinois Plate
Re: VIN Number
Re: Concerning 350's and 455's
Re: Max tire width
Increase Your Web Site Visibility
off this list
th350 front pump fs
Re: Junk Yard Stuff
RE: Max Tire Width
Re: Will 455 fit in 1977 98???
Re: Illinois Plate
Re: California events
Re: 350 Head Gaskets
Re: Will 455 fit in 1977 98???
Re: Concerning 350's and 455's
Re: Concerning 350's and 455's
Re: Concerning 350's and 455's
question about rear end gearing
Oil Plug size, 72 to 75 455 (9/16 to 7/8)
'72 bumperettes & RW Blower
Re: Concerning 350's and 455's
Re: question about rear end gearing
Re: Dual Snorkel air cleaners...

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 11:45:29 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: rear seal

>> Use the diesel rear seal or is it the 460 f**d, both are one piece. Anybody
>> out there can help out on this?
>
>Well the Ford 460 used both one piece and two piece rear main seals. The
>460 came out in '68 (I think??) and used a two piece seal up till the
>mid 80's then it went to the superior one piece rear seal. The seal that
>fits in the Olds big blocks is the two piece seal. When I rebuilt my 455
>I just went to the local parts store and got a Fel-Pro seal, cheaper and
>easier than getting one from Ford or Mondello...

Would a one-piece even fit around the flywheel flange on the Olds? I can't
imagine it being *that* pliable.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 12:31:06 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Rebuild Parts List

>The parts list for my rebuild is now on the web...
>
>Al Varhus
>Columbus, Ohio 
>http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html

Al,

I just have to comment that you have one neat and clean Cutlass! Sounds
like a well-worked out swap. So, how about some under-hood shots, and
perhaps some 1/4 mi. times?
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	     MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado		 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX	 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited	 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 12:31:30 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Dual-Snorkel Air Cleaner

>> Yes, the H/O's and 442's all have the dual snorkel cleaners.  I did a
search on
>> partsvoice and it says there aren't any left, using the '84 part number
(can't
>> imagine why it'd be different in other years).
>
>Rats.  I figured that they'd be pretty rare.

Well, it doesn't have to be from an Olds; any dual-snorkel air cleaner that
will fit the neck of the Q-jet will work, so start looking under the hoods
of '84-'87 Monte SS's, '83-'85 Z-28's, and even <gasp!> '83-'85 Mustang
GT's (hey, at least they're good for something... ;).

>> Those two holes in front do look good for piping in outside air, but to
me they
>> seem like they're responsible for ducting in a lot of air for the radiator.
>
>That's a good point.  I did go to the hardware store today and looked at
>their heating ducts, but they were all much too large.  I saw a stock 307
>air box at a junkyard; I'll go get it tomorrow.  I'll look more into this,

Pep Boys et al. sell universal-fit air intake tubes in many diameters that
can be adapted to your setup. Almost all the GM cars from '74 onward have
some sort of fresh-air induction setup, which usually has a kind of scoop
that passes over the radiator support to pick up the cooler air from in
front of the radiator. Though it doesn't have any ram-air effect, this
setup will work, will not restrict airflow to the radiator, and will look
factory. Just rummage around in a salvage yard, and see which scoops will
look and fit best.

>though.  It seems like a fun project, although everyday it seems like it's
>more and more unreasonable.

Not at all unreasonable; just requires a little mor digging on your part.
But that's half the fun, isn't it!
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 12:31:35 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Headers?

>What would be good Headers for the 403? ( it's in a van ) I've got
>plenty of room to work with, except by #2 exhaust port, where I only had
>a 2 inch clearance between the old manifold and the steering.

Well, there aren't that many options, and since there will be no pre-made
headers for your van, it's probably best to start with whatever you can get
your hands on. A good starting point might be the headers produced for an
application like the '77-'79 Pontiac Trans Am with the 403, as things were
rather tight in there. You may have to cut and relocate a pipe, but that
would be likely to happen with any set you used, especially since you'll
have the suspension setup for a RHD vehicle.

Oh, and anything with around a 1 3/4" primary tube will be fine.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 13:25:41 +0000
From: "Mike Coccagna" <mcoccagn@envirosense.com>
Subject: Re: The list people and their cars

Sorry that I'm a little late with my info, a little busy lately.....

Mike Coccagna 
Frederick, MD

1991 Quad442 W-40 - Bought it new in '91, H.O. Quad4 - 180HP
    stock, soon to be modified to about 210hp, 5 sp. w/highway gears
    (3.61 final gear ratio), Bright Red/ saddle interior.  "Koni
    Equipped".  Able to obtain an average 30+ mpg and destroy many
    5.slows.  Currently has 130,000 miles, and is undrivable due to
    Quad4 disease (Head gasket blown).  A 2,500 lb rocket that'll be
    back on the road in 3 or 4 weeks!

1993 Achieva SCX W-41 - recently aquired from an unknowing
    seller    :-)  W-41 Quad4, black/black.  3.91 final gear ratio
    5sp.,    Electronically adjustable suspension.  30,000 miles
    this AM.  A    little heavier than the Calias based Quad442, but
    a lot of fun    anyways.

1995 Nissan Altima (wife's car)
	- no details needed.

Mike
'91 W-40 Quad442
'93 W-41 Achieva SCX

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 12:35:42 -0500
From: "David Brown (the Olds FAQ compiler)" <dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: ('77+ B/C/D waterleak)

I recently repaired this exact problem on a friend's '77 Custom Cruiser.
Remove the 8 or so 1/4" hex bolts securing the air inlet grill.  While
looking down towards the air intake area for the blower fan, you should
observe a join in the plastic/fibreglass(?) case.  The original seal has
probably dried out; in this case, applying silicon sealer along the
junction stopped any further water penetration.

Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario,
Canada
- ----------
Excellent! Now I know what I'm getting into when I go after that little,
but really annoying leak! Thanks Kevin!

- -- 
David Brown     Mailto:dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 13:40:47 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: 71 442 convertible rear speaker help

>I have a 1971 Olds 442 convertible and when I was replacing my old carpet
>with new carpet, I noticed I had a rear speaker behind ny rear seat. It had
>(1) blue wire attached and this wire ran up to the front of the car under
>the dash. The radio I installed was out of a late 60's early 70's car, I
>think. There was (1) blue wire coming out of the back of the radio with the
>same type of connector attached to it as was attached to the (1) blue wire
>that was coming from the rear speaker. I connected these and nothing
>happened. The (2) wires running from the radio to the front speaker are
>solid blue and blue with a white stripe. I tried attaching the speaker wire
>to each of these and got nothing from the blue with a white stripe wire and
>just a little static from the solid blue wire. I thought speakers all
>needed (2) wires running to them to make them work? Also, I'm not sure if

Yes, but GM used the frame in place of one of those wires with the old
single-wire speakers, hence...

>this is anything but beside the rear speaker there was a ground wire
>attached to the same metal brace as the speaker but it was not connected to
>anything. (just a loose wire) Could this be anything? 

That loose wire is the second wire to that speaker, and needs to be bolted
to a ground in order for that speaker to work. I wouldn't get your hopes
up, though; many of the speakers that old have deteriorated and are blown.
Have you confirmed that the radio does in fact work?
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 13:10:28 -0400
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 13:09:03 -0500
From: "David Brown (the Olds FAQ compiler)" <dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: RE: READ ME...questioning authority

This list is designed to share information about the hobby of
collecting Oldsmobiles.  The information is based on experience and on
facts.  But when I get several different answers from the same question,
It makes me wonder who is correct.
 This first happenend when I asked if I could run 275/60r15 on a SSII
15X7" rim in the rear.  Many people said that the tire just wouldn't
fit, or that it would take up too much room.  Well I ordered the tires
on a hunch, and low-and-behold, they fit!  Amazing!  And not only do
they fit, but they fit all the way through the suspension travel!  Go
figure.
 Now I am looking for advice on my differential.  

 This leads me to believe that we need to things...
1.  Confidence in the advice that we are giving and are given
2.  A spec list on differentials and their compatability
 Thank you for those of you who have read this.
Brad
70 442
- ----------
Sorry for quoting most of the original message. I've found the
information on this list to be highly accurate. But yes, there is some
misinformation, not intentional, or sometimes details are left out. But
I've found that most times the information is corrected (even by the
original poster), details are provided, and alternative methods and such
are given. I know about the misinformation from follow up postings and
such - I'm no Olds know it all! :) I would try to verify the information
through another source, to have more confidence in the advice given.

I would say the area of whether the wheels will fit it sort of a grey
area. I'm glad the wheels will work. The same can be said about "which
diff do I have", and "will this other one work". For a while in the
70's, there was the Buick, Pontiac and Chevy diffs, and Olds, for a
while, I think. You should look for as many distinguishing
characteristics to see what you have. The axle code, this and that
shape, pan shape, differning casting boses, distance between top &
bottom bolt, axle length, distance between differing welded-on
suspension anchor points, etc. A lot of pain-in-the xxx stuff, but they
tend to all look the same (Dr. Bob can tell you!).

A chassis manual will show you the distinguishing characteristics, and
the all important axle codes. Even staring right at that, it's hard to
figure out what the external differences are. The codes were reused,
year to year. Sometimes the same code meant the same 2.93 axle,
sometimes it meant 2.73 the next year. The next FAQ has a bunch, but not
complete list of axle codes, gears and applications.

I'm glad you posted, asking about questioning authority. The list
members combined create a large knowledge base. From feedback, I know
this is the best on the Internet, but I know that we are also fallible.
I hope no one resists posting corrections or disagreements pertaining to
one of our hobbies. We're all learning! 
- -- 
David Brown     Mailto:dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 14:01:08 -0400
From: "Adcock, Jason K." <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Dual-Snorkel Air Cleaner

Robert Barry wrote:

> Not at all unreasonable; just requires a little mor digging on your part.
> But that's half the fun, isn't it!

Actually, and if you're talking about salvage yard digging, I love to
rummage through stuff!  I used to live up in northern VA, where the
junkyard guys would be like "yeah, we got that...wait here and I'll have
someone get it" or "nah, we don't got that part, NEXT!".  Down here in
southwest VA, Roanoke area, specifically, there are lots of yards where you
can go pickin all day.  I love huntin around and seeing what I can find. 
So, in my opinion, that's MORE than half the fun!  The part that's not fun
is actually whippin out the ole wallet and sayin "you know, I did find it
on the ground and it looks kinda beat up, you think you could take a couple
a dollars off the pr..."

- -- 
Jason K. Adcock
jadcock@vt.edu
OCA #028044

http://www.erols.com/adcockjk
1984 Cutlass Supreme Calais
1992 Ford Crown Victoria LX
1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 13:16:12 -0500
From: "David Brown (the Olds FAQ compiler)" <dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: RE: New gas tanks prep

Any reccomendations on a specicfic paint that I could use to paint a new
gas
tank?? Would like to protect it from any corrosion before its installed. 
- ----------
I put on three coats of Plasti-Coat ruddy brown primer, and then two
coats of undercoating on my '77 Delta's tank seven years ago. It's fine,
every spring I touch up any areas that have worn off from rock chips.

If I were to do it again, I would use two coats of POR-15 with two coats
of rubberized undercoating. The tank is a little oily from the factory,
so clean it with some paint thinner and then a once over with lacquer
thinner (be careful with that stuff!!). If you reuse the sender, try to
have the rust blasted off, and get a new rubber ring - around $2, I
think.
- -- 
David Brown     Mailto:dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 15:16:28 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: 71 442 convertible rear speaker help

Further to Dr. Bob's reply, GM didn't go to the 2-wire speaker until 
later in the '70s, so these old ones ground to the body via the speaker 
frame. So why doesn't it work? Maybe you don't have a fader switch on 
your radio. That's the thing controlled by the outside knob around the 
tuner knob. GM's old radios didn't have that installed unless you ordered 
a rear speaker, otherwise they had a little u-shaped wire shunt that 
plugged into 2 of the 3 holes the fader switch pins used. I think any 
older GM fader switch would work, but it needs to be from your radio 
model if you want the knob to match.

Pull off your tuner knob and the outer one on that side and see if it's a 
fader switch or just a dummy knob with the shunt wire.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 14:50:29 -0400
From: "Adcock, Jason K." <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: READ ME...questioning authority

David Brown (the Olds FAQ compiler) wrote:

> I'm glad you posted, asking about questioning authority. The list
> members combined create a large knowledge base. From feedback, I know
> this is the best on the Internet, but I know that we are also fallible.
> I hope no one resists posting corrections or disagreements pertaining to
> one of our hobbies. We're all learning!

This is very true, but even so, I don't like to give out wrong information,
even if I do have an excuse.  That is why I'm asking more than answering. 
I love to help folks out, but a lot of times (most of the time ;-), other
folks know much more than me on the subject and I just let them do their
thing.  I couldn't dream of knowing as much as some folks on here.  I'd
like to, which is why I do a lot of asking.  Soon (I hope), that
question/answer ration will swing, from maybe 75/25 to 50/50, then to
25/75.  But, David is right.  We are all falliable and we are all
learning.  That's what makes the list fun, right?

- -- 
Jason K. Adcock
jadcock@vt.edu
OCA #028044

http://www.erols.com/adcockjk
1984 Cutlass Supreme Calais
1992 Ford Crown Victoria LX
1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 15:03:43 -0400 (EDT)
From: Markintime@aol.com
Subject: Re: Old Car Magazines

Hey Tom,
I'm wondering if you've come across any performance articles on the 67' 442
in any of those old mags.  Please let me know.

TIA

Mark Berube
Loganville, GA.
67' 442 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 15:30:18 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Concerning 350's and 455's

Okay, first of all let me give you a thourough explanation of what is
going to take place.

My father once taught a young man in one of his classes, English. This
man came on to become a race engine builder. He is going to let me use
the facilities in his shop. He has a Dyno, a Flow Bench, and all the
other little specific tools you need. I must provide the engine stand.
We were planning on pulling the 350 out of my Cutlass, tearing it
completely apart and throwing some Hi-Po goodies in it while he stands
over my shoulder and tells me exactly what needs to be done.
	To put in (on) it, I have a GK cam 288° at 0, .470 lift, #6 heads, and
the rest of the heavy duty valvetrain from Comp Cams. In those heads,
I'm putting hardened valve seats, 2.07, 1.71 Milodon valves, porting
(polishing maybe). I'm also going to get an Edelbrock Performer RPM
manifold, rebuild my carb (better jetting...etc,). On it right now I
have the exhaust system as listed on my page. I'll also put a B&M
Transpak in the TH350 too.

I'm limited to a $2000 budget. What I'm asking is would I be wise to buy
a 455 and use the cam in that, port and polish it's heads, rebuild it's
carb, and put the headers on that or should I just stick with what I
have? I know there's no replacement for displacement, but you can really
build small blocks to wind if you want to. The 350 only has 46K+ miles
on it also. Besides, my motor's in good shape, where can I get a decent
455 for cheap that I know hasn't been beat to hell?

Please, consider all factors carefully,
- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 15:41:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Concerning 350's and 455's

Build the 350.

CoupeKing

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 15:52:59 -0400 (EDT)
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: 350 Head Gaskets

Quick question:

Anyone have a source for the original style thin copper head gaskets for a
350?  I can't seem to find anything but the standard issue Fel-Pro
composition type.

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    --> ravalent@liii.com  <--
        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 15:57:46 -0400
From: Ray Moriarty <rmoriarty@blairinc.com>
Subject: Re: CCR All Olds Show

>Met Joe Padavano, who thankfully brought his "Dirty W Thirty" so my car
didn't 
>look ~too~ bad.
>     
>     Glad to do my part :-)
>     
>     Joe Padavano
>     padavano.joe@orbital.com

Dirty W Thirty??? Was this the yellow W-30 parked third from RT7 on the
performance row? 

Ray

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 16:18:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: CRuper1@aol.com
Subject: Re: FS:1980 Olds Cutlass Supreme (fwd)

In a message dated 97-10-12 18:19:50 EDT, you write:

<< 
 Greg Beaulieu wrote:
 > 
 > Anyone see this? Thought it might be of interest to someone...
 > 
 
 >  As most of you know, the 80 and 81 Cutlass Diesel had an aluminum
 > hood,
 
 Is this true?  I'd never heard this before...
 -- 
     
              Charley Buehner >>

I've got an aluminum hood for my car (yet to install), and I've heard they
were the Calais models.  Man are these things light (feels like about 15 to
20 lbs. is all).  Yes, I did get the hood hinges that go with it.  It'll be a
nice replacement for mine since it's in excellent shape (no dings, etc.), and
since mine is rusted at the front portion of the hood (around the emblem,
etc.).

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 16:36:37 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: 350 Head Gaskets

At 03:52 PM 10/13/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Quick question:
>
>Anyone have a source for the original style thin copper head gaskets for a
>350?  I can't seem to find anything but the standard issue Fel-Pro
>composition type.
>
>                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
>                    --> ravalent@liii.com  <--
>        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"
>
>
>
Bob

        You can get them though your dealer or order them through Fel-Pro
and some of the aftermarket manufacturers.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 16:24:44 -0500
From: "David Brown (the Olds FAQ compiler)" <dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: RE: Automatic Trainy ID, FYI

I have a little to much time on my hands lately, so, thought I might 
help a few people out with some Ascii art and help people Identify 
what kind of trainy is in there car by looking at the trainy pan. 
Here goes...
- ----------
Thanks!
- -- 
David Brown     Mailto:dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 16:29:24 -0500
From: "David Brown (the Olds FAQ compiler)" <dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: RE: Next FAQ Release

Does anyone know when the next version of the Olds List FAQ is going to
be released?.

Jay Britt
- ----------
Maybe this week. But all the internal links might not be correct. I'll
have to make those corrections and distribute it again. Too much to do
outside, too little temps over 60 left.
- -- 
David Brown     Mailto:dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 16:34:03 -0500
From: "David Brown (the Olds FAQ compiler)" <dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: Electrical Help Please

How many wires did you find attached to the left (driver's) pillar?
I think you should expect to find two: interior lights and key-in
reminder buzzer. If you only found one, the other may be hung up in
the pillar somewhere and grounded.

Andrew C. Green                   (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.
101 N. Wacker Drive, Ste. 1800    Internet: acg@dlogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301           FAX: (312) 853-8282
- ----------
I think the possibility for this to happen is greater than expected. I
cleaned a corroded switch last night and when I threaded it out, I was
thinking about all the twisting and strain there would be on the wires
if I didn't twist it the CCW before reinstalling it. Those wires sure
are a pain to get off a donor car though.
- -- 
David Brown     Mailto:dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 14:28:32 -0700
From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Subject: Cool Brake Tricks

I've had a dual master cylinder on my 66 98 for a long time for safety and
to work with my disc brakes. About two years ago, I put on on of the modern
ones (79 and later?) with the semi-see through reservoir, thinking it would
be good to be able to see any drop in the fluid level.

I used the master cylinder from a 79 Toro, whose reservoir was
unfortunately  molded for a slanted firewall. My firewall is vertical, so I
could never fill the reservoir full, because it would spill over the front
when the rear was just getting full. Maybe you've seen these slanted
reservoirs on late model cars where the master cylinder is higher in the
front than the rear.

So there I am with a sort-of full reservoir that looks kind of funky for
years, like it obviously doesn't belong there. Which of course, it doesn't.

Saturday was in the boneyard with a enough time on my hands and tools
to break things. I went looking for flat reservoirs. Guess what? I found
one: The Ponti*c F*ero. They pop right off with a long socket extension or
big screwdriver. Messy, but effective. Suburbans have these flat ones too,
but I think they have a physically longer and and larger master cylinder.

I checked the swappability fit on a '82 custom cruiser master cylinder in
the yard. It worked like a charm. Put it on my car in less than half an
hour, no need to bleed the lines either. I beat my girlfriend's
time-on-car-project by half an hour (major victory...)

So now I have my late model see through reservoir and my 1966 firewall. And
for $5.00.

Cool.
cf


PS: Hope this was interesting and not too long.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 97 17:30:46 -0500
From: Mike Hall <oldsmike@flash.net>
Subject: Re: Concerning 350's and 455's

Joe Padavano writes:
>Keep in mind, however, 
>that I don't consider anything with less than 400 cubic inches to be a 
>real engine anyway :-)
    
Joe, Joe, Joe.....

What are we to do with you?

When I run 12's at the Mondello Nationals next year, what am I going to 
tell people? Oh, it's not that good, it's not a "REAL" engine... One of 
the Detroit Street Rockets, he has a 350 running 12.2's in his 72' 442, 
what is HE going to tell people? Tell me!

The shame, the shame.... for all of this time, I "thought" I had a "REAL" 
car with a "REAL" engine, this is such a dilemma! I guess I better build 
one of these spare 455's so I can redeem myself to the Oldsmobile Gods...

;-P
Mike



Michael R. Hall: OCA #17903                    Ortonville, Michigan
Home E-Mail: oldsmike@flash.net
The Ever-Growing Oldsmobile Stable:
1971 Oldsmobile 442    
1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
1987 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Custom Cruiser
1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 16:44:51 -0500
From: "David Brown (the Olds FAQ compiler)" <dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: READ ME...questioning authority

This is very true, but even so, I don't like to give out wrong
information,
even if I do have an excuse.  That is why I'm asking more than
answering. 
I love to help folks out, but a lot of times (most of the time ;-),
other
folks know much more than me on the subject and I just let them do their
thing.  I couldn't dream of knowing as much as some folks on here.  I'd
like to, which is why I do a lot of asking.  Soon (I hope), that
question/answer ration will swing, from maybe 75/25 to 50/50, then to
25/75.  But, David is right.  We are all falliable and we are all
learning.  That's what makes the list fun, right?

- -- 
Jason K. Adcock
- ----------
Yes. There is no reason or excuse to give out wrong/incorrect/bad
information. And if the information is of the "a friend heard this and
that" variety, that should be included as a disclaimer.

Use the information as a guide, find out what is wrong, how it can be
done better, new things to watch out for, update us, and we all learn.
Can anyone out there tell me how to repair a wiper motor? Well, maybe
that one has been beaten to death too many times . . . :)
- -- 
David Brown     Mailto:dbrown@mailhub.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 3.0 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 17:34:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: BMAN6771@aol.com
Subject: Re: Experimental Engines (was: Old Car Magazines)

speaking of olds and boats...i know of an olds boat motor that i belive has a
w-30 heads or something like that on it....neat!!

brent
1967 cutlass convertible (bimini blue) 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 18:05:32 -0400
From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Subject: Re: Concerning 350's and 455's

Joe what about engines with only 6 cylinders :-) Hard to say that the 86-87
Buick 3.8L Turbo isn't a real engine....well I guess you could seeing that
it needs a turbo and intercooler to make that power :-) Another one that I
know you like are those Mitsubishi Eclipses that are running high 10's on 4
cylinders, turbo and AWD :-P 

Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio
Quality Engineer - TRW, Inc. Automotive Group
95 Impala SS                    85 S-10 Blazer 4x4
80 Olds 442 W-30            75 Hurst/Olds W-25

>      Keep in mind, however, 
>      that I don't consider anything with less than 400 cubic inches to be
a 
>      real engine anyway :-)
>      
>      Joe Padavano

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 18:09:39 -0400
From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Subject: Re: 65 442 performance

Many of the people on the F-body mailing list have a G-tech and the
consensus is that they give optimistic times. Usually they show you as .3
to .5 and 3-5 mph faster than you really are. Overall they are a great tool
if you adjust the numbers accordingly.

Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio
Quality Engineer - TRW, Inc. Automotive Group
95 Impala SS                    85 S-10 Blazer 4x4
80 Olds 442 W-30            75 Hurst/Olds W-25


> 
> I've seen these but wondered how accurate they are. Have you ran your car
at
> the strip to verify G-tech times?
> 
> Daren
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 18:23:17 -0400
From: "Adcock, Jason K." <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Junk Yard Stuff

Please don't kill me about writing all this stuff about two trips to one
junk yard, its just that I'm excited to get back into it.  I picked up my
airbox today; the guy just let me have it.  I saw a perfect-looking air
scoop thing from a Jimmy that would work great for my "ram air" project. 
I'll look around some more, though.  I did see something kind of
interesting.  It was a 78-80 Cutlass with a Rallye gauge package.  The tach
had a big rocket symbol and no numbers, just tick marks.  The clock was in
the center of the dash, so I know it wasn't the clock (or shouldn't have
been).  I didn't even see a needle for the tach.  The tranny selector
indicator (P N N D 2 1) was in the same left-hand pane also.  What is this
and does anybody want me to grab it?
- -- 
Jason K. Adcock
jadcock@vt.edu
OCA #028044

http://www.erols.com/adcockjk
1984 Cutlass Supreme Calais
1992 Ford Crown Victoria LX
1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 15:36:43 -0700
From: Curtis Ratica <ratica@knowware.net>
Subject: Re: California events

william goodnight wrote:
> 
> I am considering a quick trip to see family in the Bay Area of California in
> the next few weeks.  Does anyone know of any OCA or Rod & Custom events near
> the end of Oct.?
> Bill Goodnight
> Goodnight & Associates, Inc.
> idaholc@primenet.com
> Boise, Idaho


I Live here in Fremont (Bay Area) California, and would love
to go to some car show that has some olds'.  If you here of
any please let me know, and likewise.

Curtis Ratica
'70 C/S Conv

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 15:56:59 -0700
From: Curtis Ratica <ratica@knowware.net>
Subject: Re: Concerning 350's and 455's

> 
>      What's it going into?  A 73 Cutlass?  These cars are large and heavy,
>      so the 455 is the only choice, in my opinion.  Keep in mind, however,
>      that I don't consider anything with less than 400 cubic inches to be a
>      real engine anyway :-)
> 



Gee Joe,

I think I'll forward your email to Dale Earnhardt, Terry Labonte
and all the other NASCAR folk who race, what??? 355's.  Maybe
Ken Schrader would have won yesterday if he'd just had a REAL
engine! 

The 350 in many ways, is a better choice than a 455.  The added
weight of the 455 makes it a non-choice for a good handling "
all-around" performance car.  If you are looking at going straight
and all-out power, and that low rumbling sound that you can only
get from a 455, then it is a good choice.  

If you want a good performing street car that handles well in the
turns, get's better gas mileage and is more efficient, then the
350 is a good choice.  

I spent a couple of years racing stock cars on a 1/2 mile paved 
oval here in California, and there was a few guys that tried
to run a "real" engine (read 440-460) and I have to tell you 
they never won a race.  (least not while I was there).  When my
buddies and I first started we wanted to build a 455 (our logic
was the bigger the engine, faster you go)  We quickly learned 
there was more to racing and engines than ci.  The two track
champions ran a 350 and a 383.  They said you just couldn't turn
a car with the added weight in the front of the car and the 
slight power increase didn't make much difference in the straight
aways.  See they built their engines with a lot of torque to pull
out of the turns and the 455's just couldn't hang!


Just some personal experience 

and I'm biased a bit since I am building my 350 up in my
'70 Cutlass Convertible!

Maybe we'll race someday!

Curtis

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 18:11:19 -0500
From: Brett Chaveriat <brett@mcs.com>
Subject: Re: Illinois Plate

Jay,
	I am very lucky, in that my father actually started keeping most
plates from his cars since the 50's and nailing them up in the garage.
When they moved, I took them all down and kept them.  Some are kinda 
beat up, but most are pretty good.  I have taken one of the sets of
1972 plates and mounted them on my Cutlass on the day of a show and
ride in with them installed.  I heard this idea from another show
goer.  They nor I have had any problem doing this.  Make sure you
have the actual plate handy to show to any officers of the law.  In
fact, you could put it in the rear window.  The worst they would
probably do is to chew you out and make you reattach the current 
plate.
	I would seriously doubt you could re-register them.  You might
be able to get vanity plates that match the numbers (big long shot). 
They
have no legal significance, so you should have no problem repainting 
them (except if you painted them to look like currently issued plates).  
	
>Does anyone know if its legal to repaint these for either show or to
>obtain a current registration from DMV?.
>
>Jay Britt
>OCA#29460
>'67 Cutlass Supreme


- -- 
Brett Chaveriat                                    Arlington Hts, IL 
mailto:brett@mcs.com

72 Cutlass Supreme Convt. (Radiant Green)
96 Impala SS (black)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 19:08:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: senko@reston.ans.net (Andrew A. Senko)
Subject: Re: VIN Number

The following is about decoding Olds VIN's.

> OK, time for dumb questions:
> 
> 1.)  Where do you find the above information?  
> 2.)  Is it available on the internet?
> 3.)  If it is available in book form, is it by year, by make, by model,???
> 4.)  Is there different books for different tags?  VIN vs. COWL
> 
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Please send private, as my dumb
> questions should not waste everyone's bandwidth.  TIA.


This is not a dumb question.  A lot of people on the list can decode VIN's
for you.  I have a web page that will help you accurately decode an
Oldsmobile VIN from 1963-1975.  It has info for a few other years, but the
other years are sketchy.

The URL is http://members.aol.com/drewinva/vin

As I write this, the server that has the webpage is not responding, so
if you can't get through the first time, try back later.

- -- 
Drew
                    _
                    |\            Convertibles                     
     .__====-_._____|_\______         Rule!                        Drew Senko
     [   ___  |-     |  ___  \                           senko@reston.ans.net
     =\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)               http://members.aol.com/drewinva
_________\_/____________\_/__________________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 19:05:25 -0700
From: "David, Terri and Rob" <hoagie@emeraldis.com>
Subject: Re: Concerning 350's and 455's

Curtis Ratica wrote:
> 
> >
> >      What's it going into?  A 73 Cutlass?  These cars are large and heavy,
> >      so the 455 is the only choice, in my opinion.  Keep in mind, however,
> >      that I don't consider anything with less than 400 cubic inches to be a
> >      real engine anyway :-)
> >
> 
> Gee Joe,
> 
> I think I'll forward your email to Dale Earnhardt, Terry Labonte
> and all the other NASCAR folk who race, what??? 355's.  Maybe
> Ken Schrader would have won yesterday if he'd just had a REAL
> engine!
> 
> The 350 in many ways, is a better choice than a 455.  The added
> weight of the 455 makes it a non-choice for a good handling "
> all-around" performance car.  If you are looking at going straight
> and all-out power, and that low rumbling sound that you can only
> get from a 455, then it is a good choice.
> 
> If you want a good performing street car that handles well in the
> turns, get's better gas mileage and is more efficient, then the
> 350 is a good choice.
> 
> I spent a couple of years racing stock cars on a 1/2 mile paved
> oval here in California, and there was a few guys that tried
> to run a "real" engine (read 440-460) and I have to tell you
> they never won a race.  (least not while I was there).  When my
> buddies and I first started we wanted to build a 455 (our logic
> was the bigger the engine, faster you go)  We quickly learned
> there was more to racing and engines than ci.  The two track
> champions ran a 350 and a 383.  They said you just couldn't turn
> a car with the added weight in the front of the car and the
> slight power increase didn't make much difference in the straight
> aways.  See they built their engines with a lot of torque to pull
> out of the turns and the 455's just couldn't hang!
> 
> Just some personal experience
> 
> and I'm biased a bit since I am building my 350 up in my
> '70 Cutlass Convertible!
> 
> Maybe we'll race someday!
> 
> Curtis



take it from someone who has 2 oldsmobile big block convertibles...if 
your going to fly...GO 1ST CLASS...you can overcome the weight of the 
big block with beefier sway bars and polyeurothane bushings....you just 
can't beat the awesome torque of a big block 455....I drove 1 of my 
buddies at age 17...ever since then I knew I had to have 1....now I have 
3 of them and its still not enough....if you ever drive 1 you'll never 
go back....but I always have to have the best....Hoagie


1970 Cutlass SX convertible
1971 442 W-30 convertible
1971 442 Sport Coupe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 23:44:52 +0000
From: clarence wirtz <cw63nova@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Max tire width

At 06:37 AM 10/13/97 +0000, you wrote:
>A question:
>I have an 87 Cutlass with 235 60R 15 size tires.  It seem to me that this
>is the max width for all G bodies, assuming you don't want your wheels to
>stick out obnoxiously.  But, I have seen Monte SS's with 255's.  Can
>someone tell me how this is possible without cutting into anything.  I get
>no traction at all now and it is kind of frustrating.  Thanks!
>
>Well, I dont know about the 255's,  But I do have 245 60 15's on the back
of my 86 Cutlass 4dr.  They do not rub any were in the suspension travel.  I
dont know about the front either, maybe some one else might know.  OH I am
useing the stock OLDs wheels of a mid 70s cutlass a friend had.  I dont
remeber the year.
I dont know if this was any help or not but I thought I would share it with you.

Clarence
86 Cutlass 4dr 307 o/d
San Antonio, TX 
 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 20:54:06 -0300
From: <joseph@marketcom.com>
Subject: Increase Your Web Site Visibility

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Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 18:48:21 +0100
Message-Id: <23482173203244@aaa.hia.net>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 19:55:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: Injedolds@aol.com
Subject: off this list

In a message dated 97-10-13 17:33:38 EDT, you write:

uninstall 
get me off this list

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 16:56:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: <the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com>
Subject: th350 front pump fs

I've got a high volume front pump for a Turbo-350.  It is a Dayco,
slightly used (less than 5k miles) was new unit, not remanufactured. 
I'm looking to sell it for whatever I can get, best offer (you pay
shipping) will get it.  (or trade for 350 rocket parts ;-)  or
anything peculiar, odd, or weird that is Olds oriented).

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu
the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com





_____________________________________________________________________
Sent by RocketMail. Get your free e-mail at http://www.rocketmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 17:52:19 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Junk Yard Stuff

Jason, that's just a tach block off plate, for those who wanted guages, and
couldn't afford a tach, I guess.  I've got one sitting in one of the junk
boxes, removed to make room for the real tach.  I've got pics of it
somewhere...
    
             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
             Box 524               | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Sidney, Montana 59270 | http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
	     "TRBO LVR" (Maybe???:)| '83 Turbo Regal
               	     Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 17:12:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: <the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com>
Subject: RE: Max Tire Width

The Monte Cr*pload SS's wheels have noticeably different back-spacing.
 The largest tires that I have seen on a Cutlass were 255-60-14's. 
I'd say that you could probably put bigger than 255's on the Monte. 
BTW, those 255-14's on that Cutlass were on chrome SSIII's.  They did
not scrub on all four corners.

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu
the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com




At 06:37 AM 10/13/97 +0000, you wrote:
>A question:
>I have an 87 Cutlass with 235 60R 15 size tires.  It seem to me that
this
>is the max width for all G bodies, assuming you don't want your
wheels to
>stick out obnoxiously.  But, I have seen Monte SS's with 255's.  Can
>someone tell me how this is possible without cutting into anything. 
I get
>no traction at all now and it is kind of frustrating.  Thanks!
>
>Well, I dont know about the 255's,  But I do have 245 60 15's on the
back
of my 86 Cutlass 4dr.  They do not rub any were in the suspension
travel.  I
dont know about the front either, maybe some one else might know.  OH
I am
useing the stock OLDs wheels of a mid 70s cutlass a friend had.  I dont
remeber the year.
I dont know if this was any help or not but I thought I would share it
with
you.
                                                 





_____________________________________________________________________
Sent by RocketMail. Get your free e-mail at http://www.rocketmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 19:16:22 -0500
From: Jeremy Enos <j-enos@students.uiuc.edu>
Subject: Re: Will 455 fit in 1977 98???

I would, but I don't think you'd want it.  It's eating 2qt's oil w/
every tank of fuel.

	Jeremy

At 11:16 PM 10/12/97 -0700, you wrote:
>On Wed, 8 Oct 1997, Jeremy Enos wrote:
>
>> I discovered that the 1977 98 Regency I bought has a 403 in it that
>> is an oil-aholic.  I just retired a 76 98 w/ a 455 in it due to body
>> deterioration, but the engine was working wonderfully even with the
>> 161,000 on it.  At a glance, it doesn't look like there is any way that
>> the 455 could fit in the the spot that the 403 is in, but according to
>> mechanics I've called- the books say it will fit w/ the proper mounting
>> brackets.  I wanted to ask somewhere where I could get an informed possibly
>> first-hand answer, so I'm posting here.  Please advise!
>> Thanks-
>> 
>> 	Jeremy
>> 
>> P.S. I won't have to switch engines if everyone on this list could send me
>> just one quart of oil...  j/k ;-)
>> 
>> 
>What are you going to do with the 403?  Want to sell it to me?
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 20:42:42 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Illinois Plate

Brett Chaveriat wrote:
> 
>         I would seriously doubt you could re-register them.  You might
> be able to get vanity plates that match the numbers (big long shot).
> They
> have no legal significance, so you should have no problem repainting
> them (except if you painted them to look like currently issued plates).
> 
> >Does anyone know if its legal to repaint these for either show or to
> >obtain a current registration from DMV?.

Depends where you live.  I know that in MD, if your car is registered as
historic, you can put plates on from the year of manufacture (for an
extra $17).  I believe it's OH that will even let you paint them to
match the car!  Check with your DMV.

- -- 
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 18:10:49 -0700
From: Brad Bowles <wolds@napanet.net>
Subject: Re: California events

Curtis Ratica wrote:
> 
> william goodnight wrote:
> >
> > I am considering a quick trip to see family in the Bay Area of California in
> > the next few weeks.  Does anyone know of any OCA or Rod & Custom events near
> > the end of Oct.?
> > Bill Goodnight
> > Goodnight & Associates, Inc.
> > idaholc@primenet.com
> > Boise, Idaho
> 
> I Live here in Fremont (Bay Area) California, and would love
> to go to some car show that has some olds'.  If you here of
> any please let me know, and likewise.
> 
> Curtis Ratica
> '70 C/S Conv

Me Too!!!
I live in Napa, just finish a complete restoration of my daily
driver/show/race car.  Would like to enter it.  Let us know please of
any upcoming events in bay area!
Thanks
Brad
70 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 20:20:29 -0500
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: 350 Head Gaskets

>>
>>Anyone have a source for the original style thin copper head gaskets for a
>>350?  I can't seem to find anything but the standard issue Fel-Pro
>>composition type.
>>
>>                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--
>>                    --> ravalent@liii.com  <--
>>        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"
>>
I've got a '94 PAW catalog it has Milodon .040 thick @$82.95 and SCE .042
@$54.95. I know it's an old catalog but they are out there. Try
http://www.jegs.com/ or http://www.summitracing.com/ I don't think they have
them listed in their catalog or web site but they probably carry them. Have
you tried local parts stores, speed shops and machine shops?

Daren

p.s. try http://www.tcsn.net/mondello/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 20:25:17 -0500
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: Will 455 fit in 1977 98???

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeremy Enos <j-enos@students.uiuc.edu>


>I would, but I don't think you'd want it.  It's eating 2qt's oil w/
>every tank of fuel.
>
> Jeremy

>>>
>>>
>>What are you going to do with the 403?  Want to sell it to me?
>>
>>
>
If the person that is asking for it above doesn't take it I might be
interested in it depending on were its at.

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 20:45:59 -0500
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: Concerning 350's and 455's

- -----Original Message-----
From: Curtis Ratica <ratica@knowware.net>
>
>I think I'll forward your email to Dale Earnhardt, Terry Labonte
>and all the other NASCAR folk who race, what??? 355's.  Maybe
>Ken Schrader would have won yesterday if he'd just had a REAL
>engine!
>
Considering that these guys drive 200-600 miles in circles and end where
they started I wouldn't surprised if they used 5hp Lawn mower engines ;)

>The 350 in many ways, is a better choice than a 455.  The added
>weight of the 455 makes it a non-choice for a good handling "
>all-around" performance car.  If you are looking at going straight
>and all-out power, and that low rumbling sound that you can only
>get from a 455, then it is a good choice.
>
I'm not saying your wrong but I had a '82 Cutlass that had bad understeer
(it went straight when I wanted it to turn) after I pulled the V6 and
dropped in a 455 it handled great a little tail happy but at least I could
control where I was going. And yes it still had the V6 springs dropped the
front about an inch.

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 18:48:20 -0700
From: Curtis Ratica <ratica@knowware.net>
Subject: Re: Concerning 350's and 455's

> 
> take it from someone who has 2 oldsmobile big block convertibles...if
> your going to fly...GO 1ST CLASS...you can overcome the weight of the
> big block with beefier sway bars and polyeurothane bushings....you just
> can't beat the awesome torque of a big block 455....I drove 1 of my
> buddies at age 17...ever since then I knew I had to have 1....now I have
> 3 of them and its still not enough....if you ever drive 1 you'll never
> go back....but I always have to have the best....Hoagie
> 
> 1970 Cutlass SX convertible
> 1971 442 W-30 convertible
> 1971 442 Sport Coupe


Again, if "1st class" in your opinion simply means more CI, then
"1st class" you'll get with a 455 over 350.  If however, you want
all around performance, then you probably aren't.  You can't possibly
"overcome" the added weight of a 455 no matter what you do when 
compared to an equally equipped (read: anti-sway bars, bushings, etc...)
small-block in terms of handling.  Weight and the distribution of it
are an extremely important factor in setting up a car for performance.
Several of the racers started out with big-blocks and ending up with 
small-blocks.  

Yes, I have driven them, I guess it's a matter or where your priorities
are.  Mine are with engine performance, as well as chassis performance.
I don't like driving in straight lines!!!!  I even prefer road courses
over ovals in racing...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 18:51:29 -0700
From: Curtis Ratica <ratica@knowware.net>
Subject: Re: Concerning 350's and 455's

Daren & Laurie Hendley wrote:
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Curtis Ratica <ratica@knowware.net>
> >
> >I think I'll forward your email to Dale Earnhardt, Terry Labonte
> >and all the other NASCAR folk who race, what??? 355's.  Maybe
> >Ken Schrader would have won yesterday if he'd just had a REAL
> >engine!
> >
> Considering that these guys drive 200-600 miles in circles and end where
> they started I wouldn't surprised if they used 5hp Lawn mower engines ;)
> 
> >The 350 in many ways, is a better choice than a 455.  The added
> >weight of the 455 makes it a non-choice for a good handling "
> >all-around" performance car.  If you are looking at going straight
> >and all-out power, and that low rumbling sound that you can only
> >get from a 455, then it is a good choice.
> >
> I'm not saying your wrong but I had a '82 Cutlass that had bad understeer
> (it went straight when I wanted it to turn) after I pulled the V6 and
> dropped in a 455 it handled great a little tail happy but at least I could
> control where I was going. And yes it still had the V6 springs dropped the
> front about an inch.
> 
> Daren


That's because your car obviously wasn't set up properly for the v6
and the added weight of the 455 corrected it.  If you had a professional
setup with the v6 and a professional setup with the 455,
your slalom times would be higher (better) with the v6.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 21:36:16 -0400
From: Ken <olds442@en.com>
Subject: question about rear end gearing

Am thinking about picking up a Chevy 12 bolt posi rear w/ 4.56 ratio.
Question is, how drastic will the change be from my current Olds 10 bolt
posi w/ ratio of 3.55.  

  Secondly,  I'm currently running a 14" tire that stands approx 26"
tall.  How much will moving to a 15" tire around 29" tall ofset the 3.55
to 4.56 difference?

 Thirdly if I do this the Olds rear will be up for sale :)

Thanks
Ken

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 19:56:44 -0700
From: Eric Aksomitis <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Oil Plug size, 72 to 75 455 (9/16 to 7/8)

Just curious, changing the oil on my 72 455, and the oil plug takes a
7/8 socket.  All my 75's take a 9/16 socket.  Is this a year difference,
or an oversized plug?  If it's stock, when did they change?

Just wantin to know!
- -- 
- -------------Self Promo V3.0--------------------------
Eric Aksomitis  http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi
mailto:big_olds@hotmail.com   See it all, click above
- ------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 21:53:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mancinj@aol.com
Subject: '72 bumperettes & RW Blower

Joel:

The rear window blower I have has all the plugs, wires, etc. for hooking up
to your non-blower Cutlass. I've added many factory electrical options
(cruise, 8-track, rear defogger, under hood light) to my '72 H/O over the
years and have never had to cut or splice anything. The empty sockets and
plugs have always been right where they were supposed to be. The blower
grille is black and the unit appears to be in good working order. However,
before we could do a swap, I would certainly hook 'er up and make sure for
you. I have a '72 chassis svc. manual and will copy the necessary pages, if
needed.

I was really hoping for bumperettes without dinged-up rubber noses, but
unless somebody comes up with something better, I could probably live with
those.

- -Jay

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 19:04:46 -0700
From: Curtis Ratica <ratica@knowware.net>
Subject: Re: Concerning 350's and 455's

Nice list of cars by the way!  I was just trying to address the
guy who said that anything less than a 400 is not a "real" engine.
Engines come in all shapes and sizes and most of them have their
advantages and disadvantages.  The 355ci engines that NASCAR WC uses
have over 750hp!  Drop that in my Cutlass and maybe then he'll say
I have a real engine!  :)


By the way, does anyone know what kind of cylinder compression 
readings I should be getting from my '70 350?

Thanks...


> 
> take it from someone who has 2 oldsmobile big block convertibles...if
> your going to fly...GO 1ST CLASS...you can overcome the weight of the
> big block with beefier sway bars and polyeurothane bushings....you just
> can't beat the awesome torque of a big block 455....I drove 1 of my
> buddies at age 17...ever since then I knew I had to have 1....now I have
> 3 of them and its still not enough....if you ever drive 1 you'll never
> go back....but I always have to have the best....Hoagie
> 
> 1970 Cutlass SX convertible
> 1971 442 W-30 convertible
> 1971 442 Sport Coupe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 21:27:38 -0500
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: question about rear end gearing

- -----Original Message-----
From: Ken <olds442@en.com>


>Am thinking about picking up a Chevy 12 bolt posi rear w/ 4.56 ratio.
>Question is, how drastic will the change be from my current Olds 10 bolt
>posi w/ ratio of 3.55.  


mph=tire radius/168*engine rpm/gear ratio

rpm=168*gear ratio*mph/tire radius

gear ratio=tire radius*rpm/168/mph

tire radius=168*mph*gear ratio/rpm

Here is a few formulas you can use to find your answers.

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 22:24:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: Crown14@aol.com
Subject: Re: Dual Snorkel air cleaners...

I have also been planning a possible setup very similar to the one you guys
have been writing about.  I wanted to get another air cleaner snorkel of the
same size and weld it on, then use some of those replacement hoses which are
sold at auto parts stores to feed air from some scoops.  The long and thin
holes in my '72 look perfect.  Of course, I would have to cut out the 4in
holes on the panel in back of the headlamps, and move the battery to the
trunk, and maybe relocate the charcoal cannister... but that does not seem
that hard to do if I am already making this setup basically from scratch.  I
have seen bumper scoops for sale in the Oldsmobile USA catalog for close to
$80, so that is out of the question.  Either I make my own somehow (or I rip
through junk trucks from the 40's) or find some other way or fitting the
hoses to an air source.  A friend suggested that I remove one head light from
either side or remove one of the front signal lamps and put the ducts there.
 NO WAY... I'm keeping it looking somewhat natural.

Joel
1972 Cutlass S 
350 4v

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #903
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