
oldsmobile-digest       Monday, December 8 1997       Volume 01 : Number 995



Re: Engine/Heads Paint
UNBOUNCE: Advice on Pricing
Re: Painting
Toro Oil Pan
Re: Propane Question
Re: Painting, Even the Best can fail.
Re: Painting
1966 Oldsmobile F-85 pricing
How good are them repop grilles? (head-on with a big bird)
Re: sounds
Updated web page.
Steering Column Refinishing
Re: proper responses to Q's
Re: Steering Column Refinishing
The beginning of my adventure.
door alignment
ADMIN-ALL (was:Apology) Member suggestions - non olds...
[A[Afliers
403's
Re: EGR is not A.I.R. (was: olds help, ?'s, info, goodies
Re: JWO
Re: new problems, need HELP!
Re:'67 Delta
PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale 
Non Olds Stuff
Re: 403's
RE: Parts For Sale
engine kill

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 97 13:14:01 EST
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: Engine/Heads Paint

At 10:04 PM 12/6/97 -0800, you wrote:
>Has anyone found a good paint that doesn't burn off of the heads next to
>the exhaust ports?
>
>Chris Miller
>'68 442
>cya442@mindspring.com
>
>

   I purchased a couple cans of spray enamel from Year One a while back.  I
think the part number was WSH3.  The label on the can reads 'Bill Hirsch
Hi-Temp Engine Enamel'
 E-8123 OLDS BRONZE.  I put it on my motor a few years ago (block and head
surfaces clean) and it looks just like the day that I put it on.

   
   Glenn
   '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 14:31:44 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Advice on Pricing

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	DASTEQ <DASTEQ@aol.com>
Subject: Advice on pricing

Need help... on pricing a 1966 Oldsmobile F-85.  Original owner, original
paint, no rust, original 170miles+/-  Car has been sitting for one year
...always garaged.  Everything works... Needs new door seals, trunk torsion
bar.  Would appreciate any comments, advice...need to sell car.  Please reply
DASTEQ@aol.com
Thank you

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 12:40:56 -0600
From: "Tracy H. Shires" <twodogs@ou.edu>
Subject: Re: Painting

At 10:21 AM 12/7/97 EST, you wrote:

>Chris,

>Could you tell me your story. I saw some of the paint jobs and they didn't

>look to bad. For 599.00 they paint and give you a 5 year warranty.


I'm going to have to give my 2 cents in about Maaco..


   About 4 years ago I got my Cutlass painted at Maaco. I spent two monthes doing the body work. I stripped off all the old paint and fixed two small dents. The car was all primered and ready to go. I took it down to them, picked out the color...and dropped it off.  It took about a week and half before they finished. The day it was done I had to work until midnight, so after work I went down to take a look at my baby. When I got there the paint looked a little strange. As I got up close I saw why. It was painted NEON ELECTRIC BLUE! The color I picked out was a dark blue mettalic - like the newer chevy p/u's. The door was unlocked so I sat down in my car to think about the situation - and there were my car keys sitting in the ignition! I took the keys and came back in the morning to give them a serius reaming. After about an hour of apologizing they recognized they they had messed up and promised to take all the old paint off and respray it correctly. About a week after that I got my car back - painted right. This second time around they painted over my right side marker, but I just wanted my car back so I decided I would just clean that up myself.


The paint job looked great! Then about two years later the problems started. A two sq in segement of my right fender peeled off - revealing MY primer. All the clear coat just vanished - still trying to figure out how that happened. I waxed my car every 6 monthes till this point.. After this I was forced to wax the car every three monthes becuase the paint was oxidizing like crazy.


6 monthes ago I stopped waxing her, I finished waxing a fender and loah and behold - neon electric blue paint. 


This company lied to me, my car could have be stolen out of their parking lot (with them not being responsible b/c of the waiver), and the paint did not last worth a ...


I've talked to some GOOD shops, and they are all puzzled how the paint could go bad so fast, but all said one thing - You get what you pay for.. Even at this point my paint job is under warranty, but they will be the last people to touch my car again.


My advice would be to save up the $2000 to have a RESPECTABLE shop paint your car.. I'm getting mine redone this coming summer..






T. H. Shires				81 C/S/B Rckt 350

mailto:TwoDogs@ou.edu


<bold>University of Oklahoma

</bold><italic><color><param>0000,0000,ffff</param>Aerospace 
Engineering

</color><color><param>ffff,0000,0000</param>Mechanical Engineering

</color></italic>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 10:49:54 -0800
From: Chris & Robin Miller <cya442@mindspring.com>
Subject: Toro Oil Pan

Looking for a Toro oil pan to put on my 455 in a '68 442.  Anyone know
where I can locate one and/or how much the going price is let me know.
Thanks!

Chris Miller
'68 442
cya442@mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 13:25:25 -0600
From: "John C. Ramsey" <jramsey@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: Propane Question

I am currently in the middle of creating a "Dual Fual" Street Rod.  I
have also paricipated in the "Propane Vehicle Challenge" over the course
of the last two years - in fact the University of Alberta also
participated in this competition.  In response to some of your questions
:  certainly don't park it in a dangerous place.  Garages with
electrical outlets (possible shorts) or places where people smoke are
definitely a bad idea.  Now you mentioned that your mechanic friend said
that it is possible to get propane to produce more power that its
gasoline counterpart.  By nature of its conventional delivery (gaseous
phase), typical systems cannot deliver the power of gasoline.  This is
due in part to the fact the fuel is pre-heated in the mixer to ensure
that you are recieving a consistant vapor charge.  Unfortunately, this
heated mixture creates a less dense charge, and also decreases the
change in enthalpy = less work.  It can be done, however.  There are
probably several ways to do this, though I really only know of two:

    1.  Propane has a MUCH higher octane rating than gasoline (I don't
remember the number right now, but it's over 100).  Therefore with
propane, you can increase your compression quite a bit without knock.
The real drawback to this kind of power increase it that you will see an
increase in NOx emissions due to the increased heat.

    2.  The Street Rod project (and the PVC minivan) that I have been
working on for the past couple of years are developing a new type of
propane fuel delivery.  In most applications the fuel is prevaporized
and sent to the intake in a carb-style fashion.  This most noticably
causes the power loss I mentioned before, but this system is also not
capable of the precise tuning necessary to take full advantage of
propane's low emissions capablility.  Gaseous injection technology has
come about that improves on the tunability issue, but does little to
improve power.

        There is another way to deliver propane.  Being in Canada, you
may actually have seen it.  Propane may be injected in the liquid
phase.  As you mentioned before, propane (or more specifically LPG
(Liquified Petroleum Gas) vaporizes at very low temps, therefore
measures must be taken to keep the fuel from vaporizing in the lines,
the pump, and the fuel rail.  Presurizing the line eliminates much of
this, though heat dissipation and line routing, as well as pump choice
are very important.  The street rod and minivan that I have worked on
both are developing liquid-phase propane injection systems.  This system
can increase the torque by as much as 10% (calculated).  The reason for
this is that as the liquid fuel leaved the injector, it immediately
expands and vaporizes (pressure is approximately 1 atm in the manifold
at WOT).  This expansion creates a cooling charge in the mixture
(greater density, higher change in enthalpy = more work). You can
actually think of it as a mild built-in supercharging effect.  At this
time the only companies that I know that sell such a system are Chrysler
of Canada (in a Dodge full-size van) and some company in Holland whose
name I can't recall right now.

    If you want any more information on what I know of Liquid Phase
Injection, contact me.  You can also view my "1937 Chevy 'Dual Fuel'
Street Rod" project web site at

            http://nesc.me.utexas.edu/~sae/chevy.html

    It's not quite completed, but it may have some interesting stuff for
you.

    As for cold start, that's gonna be a pain with vaporous LPG
systems.  The fuel has to get warm enough to be a consistant vapor in
order for the engine to run well.  Cold weather actually eases the
liquid phase burden.  The car can actually start as well if not better
than a gasoline car!

    Since you are in Canada, I expect that finding propane is not really
a problem.  It does get to be a pain in the US.  Basically, once you're
out of Texas, propane stations willing to fill your car are few and far
between.  You may wish to consider this before making a conversion.

Well I hope I've been informative and maybe helped a little...feel free
to contact me if you wish.

John Ramsey
'69 Cutlass 'S' (it actually is a 455 now!  and runs!)
jramsey@mail.utexas.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 11:33:07 -0800
From: "Richard E. Hart" <rehartsr@oregontrail.net>
Subject: Re: Painting, Even the Best can fail.

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0030_01BD0303.E3B02900
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Even the best paints can fail under the best conditions. =20

I had my then three year old chev PU completely repainted using Emron =
color following an accident.  We sanded it down, used the proper sealers =
as recommended by  the folks.  Invested about 2K ten years ago.  Should =
have been first rate.  Clear coated over the color using Emron.  Only =
the best. =20

Now a taste of reality.

The Emron has chipped severely.  The clear coat is coming off in sheets. =
 I am sick but what the H___.

I still recommend using only the best you can get and watch the =
application closely.

Rick
    -----Original Message-----
    From: Tracy H. Shires <twodogs@ou.edu>
    To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
    Date: Sunday, December 07, 1997 10:58 AM
    Subject: Re: Painting
   =20
   =20
    At 10:21 AM 12/7/97 EST, you wrote:
    >Chris,
    >Could you tell me your story. I saw some of the paint jobs and they =
didn't
    >look to bad. For 599.00 they paint and give you a 5 year warranty.
   =20
    I'm going to have to give my 2 cents in about Maaco..
   =20
    About 4 years ago I got my Cutlass painted at Maaco. I spent two =
monthes doing the body work. I stripped off all the old paint and fixed =
two small dents. The car was all primered and ready to go. I took it =
down to them, picked out the color...and dropped it off. It took about a =
week and half before they finished. The day it was done I had to work =
until midnight, so after work I went down to take a look at my baby. =
When I got there the paint looked a little strange. As I got up close I =
saw why. It was painted NEON ELECTRIC BLUE! The color I picked out was a =
dark blue mettalic - like the newer chevy p/u's. The door was unlocked =
so I sat down in my car to think about the situation - and there were my =
car keys sitting in the ignition! I took the keys and came back in the =
morning to give them a serius reaming. After about an hour of =
apologizing they recognized they they had messed up and promised to take =
all the old paint off and respray it correctly. About a week after that =
I got my car back - painted right. This second time around they painted =
over my right side marker, but I just wanted my car back so I decided I =
would just clean that up myself.
   =20
    The paint job looked great! Then about two years later the problems =
started. A two sq in segement of my right fender peeled off - revealing =
MY primer. All the clear coat just vanished - still trying to figure out =
how that happened. I waxed my car every 6 monthes till this point.. =
After this I was forced to wax the car every three monthes becuase the =
paint was oxidizing like crazy.
   =20
    6 monthes ago I stopped waxing her, I finished waxing a fender and =
loah and behold - neon electric blue paint.=20
   =20
    This company lied to me, my car could have be stolen out of their =
parking lot (with them not being responsible b/c of the waiver), and the =
paint did not last worth a ...
   =20
    I've talked to some GOOD shops, and they are all puzzled how the =
paint could go bad so fast, but all said one thing - You get what you =
pay for.. Even at this point my paint job is under warranty, but they =
will be the last people to touch my car again.
   =20
    My advice would be to save up the $2000 to have a RESPECTABLE shop =
paint your car.. I'm getting mine redone this coming summer..
   =20
   =20
   =20
   =20
   =20
    T. H. Shires 81 C/S/B Rckt 350
    mailto:TwoDogs@ou.edu
   =20
    University of Oklahoma
    Aerospace Engineering
    Mechanical Engineering
   =20

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2106.6"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Even the best paints can fail under =
the best=20
conditions.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I had my then three year old chev PU completely =
repainted=20
using Emron color following an accident.&nbsp; We sanded it down, used =
the=20
proper sealers as recommended by&nbsp; the folks.&nbsp; Invested about =
2K ten=20
years ago.&nbsp; Should have been first rate.&nbsp; Clear coated over =
the color=20
using Emron.&nbsp; Only the best.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><FONT color=3D#000000>Now </FONT>a taste of=20
reality.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The Emron has chipped severely.&nbsp; The clear coat =
is coming=20
off in sheets.&nbsp; I am sick but what the H___.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I still recommend using only the best you can get =
and watch=20
the application closely.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Rick</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
    </B>Tracy H. Shires &lt;<A=20
    href=3D"mailto:twodogs@ou.edu">twodogs@ou.edu</A>&gt;<BR><B>To: =
</B><A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A> =
&lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A>&g=
t;<BR><B>Date:=20
    </B>Sunday, December 07, 1997 10:58 AM<BR><B>Subject: </B>Re:=20
    Painting<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>At 10:21 AM 12/7/97 EST, you=20
    wrote:<BR>&gt;Chris,<BR>&gt;Could you tell me your story. I saw some =
of the=20
    paint jobs and they didn't<BR>&gt;look to bad. For 599.00 they paint =
and=20
    give you a 5 year warranty.<BR><BR>I'm going to have to give my 2 =
cents in=20
    about Maaco..<BR><BR>About 4 years ago I got my Cutlass painted at =
Maaco. I=20
    spent two monthes doing the body work. I stripped off all the old =
paint and=20
    fixed two small dents. The car was all primered and ready to go. I =
took it=20
    down to them, picked out the color...and dropped it off. It took =
about a=20
    week and half before they finished. The day it was done I had to =
work until=20
    midnight, so after work I went down to take a look at my baby. When =
I got=20
    there the paint looked a little strange. As I got up close I saw =
why. It was=20
    painted NEON ELECTRIC BLUE! The color I picked out was a dark blue =
mettalic=20
    - like the newer chevy p/u's. The door was unlocked so I sat down in =
my car=20
    to think about the situation - and there were my car keys sitting in =
the=20
    ignition! I took the keys and came back in the morning to give them =
a serius=20
    reaming. After about an hour of apologizing they recognized they =
they had=20
    messed up and promised to take all the old paint off and respray it=20
    correctly. About a week after that I got my car back - painted =
right. This=20
    second time around they painted over my right side marker, but I =
just wanted=20
    my car back so I decided I would just clean that up =
myself.<BR><BR>The paint=20
    job looked great! Then about two years later the problems started. A =
two sq=20
    in segement of my right fender peeled off - revealing MY primer. All =
the=20
    clear coat just vanished - still trying to figure out how that =
happened. I=20
    waxed my car every 6 monthes till this point.. After this I was =
forced to=20
    wax the car every three monthes becuase the paint was oxidizing like =

    crazy.<BR><BR>6 monthes ago I stopped waxing her, I finished waxing =
a fender=20
    and loah and behold - neon electric blue paint. <BR><BR>This company =
lied to=20
    me, my car could have be stolen out of their parking lot (with them =
not=20
    being responsible b/c of the waiver), and the paint did not last =
worth a=20
    ...<BR><BR>I've talked to some GOOD shops, and they are all puzzled =
how the=20
    paint could go bad so fast, but all said one thing - You get what =
you pay=20
    for.. Even at this point my paint job is under warranty, but they =
will be=20
    the last people to touch my car again.<BR><BR>My advice would be to =
save up=20
    the $2000 to have a RESPECTABLE shop paint your car.. I'm getting =
mine=20
    redone this coming summer..<BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR>T. H. Shires 81 =
C/S/B=20
    Rckt 350<BR>mailto:TwoDogs@ou.edu<BR><BR><B>University of=20
Oklahoma<BR></B><I><?color><?param 0000,0000,ffff>Aerospace =
Engineering<BR><?/color><?color><?param ffff,0000,0000>Mechanical=20
    Engineering<BR><?/color></I></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 14:29:34 -0500
From: "Jason K. Adcock" <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Painting

Tracy H. Shires wrote:
> 
> At 10:21 AM 12/7/97 EST, you wrote:
> >Chris,
> >Could you tell me your story. I saw some of the paint jobs and they didn't
> >look to bad. For 599.00 they paint and give you a 5 year warranty.
> 
> I'm going to have to give my 2 cents in about Maaco..

[ugly story snipped]

Although I don't have a MAACO story, I do have one about "you pay for what
you get".  I had my car repainted the summer I got it (June 95).  I went to
a few places and settled on one that a neighbor recommended.  The place
looked kinda sleezy, but the work seemed to be quality work.  They had a
LOT of wrecked cars out front, so they had a lot of business.  The guy
there kept telling me how beautiful my car already was (trying to get me to
feel all warm and fuzzy about their shop).  So, I left it there during the
time my family went on vacation (at least 6 business days).  We got back
and I was excited about getting the car back.  Alas, it was in the parking
lot, looking nice...wait a minute...that rust bubble is still in the rear
fender...THEY HAVEN'T TOUCHED IT YET!  My dad left a nice patch of matching
rubber in the parking lot, speaking for the both of us, and drive away; I'm
not going to lie, I LOVED that 5.0 Mustang!  Anyway, after some more
hassle, I got the car back and the paint looked good, but the prep work
wasn't there.  There was overspray under the hood and a little in the
trunk.  There is some paint marks on some various pieces of rubber seals
(around windows, for instance).  The job cost me around $1750, which
included a rusty door fix, which they didn't really fix...see my gripe
about it posted the Monday after Thanksgiving.  I guess the moral is $1750
isn't even enough money for a good job.  This shop was a stand-alone place
from what I can tell...no chain store here.  Because of this, I thought the
job would be done better, but no.  What I really need to do now is not get
it repainted, but clean up all the "extra" paint left various places.  Just
my 2 cents...
_____________________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.erols.com/adcockjk

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 14:45:02 EST
From: DASTEQ <DASTEQ@aol.com>
Subject: 1966 Oldsmobile F-85 pricing

Need help...  Need information for pricing a 66 F-85 4 door.  Original owner,
original paint, no rust, original miles 170,000 +/-.  Everythings works.
Needs new door rubber & torsion bar for the trunk.  Always garaged...has been
sitting for a little over a year.
Thank you

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 17:54:04 -0800
From: Greg Pruett <grpruett@vt.edu>
Subject: How good are them repop grilles? (head-on with a big bird)

Something posessed one of the local feathered friends to try and take
out the Vista Cruiser, kamakazi style.(usually I just get strafed :) 
Flew straight into the nose at appriximately mach 2.  Managed to hit the
center "T" section of the grille, just below and to the left of the
rocket badge.  (fusick calls this piece the front bumper plastic shield)
Blew it completely in half and punched out a big chunk of it....Musta
impacted beak first.  Dunno what kind of bird it was, guess I was tuning
the radio or something when he hit.  I just walked out and saw the
damage this afternoon. Figured it was a bird when I saw the white
feathers lodged in the cracks in the fiberglass and the radiator fins. 
I guess I lucked out, he could have hit one of the $110/pr. grille
sections.

To get to the point, has anyone tried the repro grill pieces from
Fusick? I know a junk yard that has the part but it's probably not in
great shape either.  For thirty bucks the new piece may be worthwhile if
it's the same quality as the original.

Thanks in advance for any info.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 17:16:09 -0500
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: sounds

> >> You wonder what the song would be like if they had waited a couple
> more
> >> years to record it.......
> >>
> >> "Well, I saved my pennies and my dollars too,
> >> Before I knew that my dream would come true,
> >> When I would buy a brand new 442......"
> >>
> >> "My 4-barrel, 4-speed, dual exhaust, 442......"
> >>
> >> Just a thought...
> >
Here's some more of the song, as ~I~ remember it should have been:

"Rev-it-up, Rev-it-up, Rev-it-up 442, 
Rev-it-up 442, Rev-it-up 442, Rev-it-up 44-
Nothing outclassed her, nothing will pass my 442, 442...."

Geez, I used to sing the song that way 20 years ago.  Still do today
when I hear "409."  I won't give "Weird Al" Yankovic a run for his
money, but I guess I had a classic that should have been, but was never
recorded....
- -- 
Mike Rothe
69 H/O
71 442 HT
85 442 T-top
76 GMC 1/2 ton, 502 c.i.

http://pages.prodigy.net/mrothe/rocket.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 17:19:51 -0500
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Updated web page.

Hello all,
For anyone interested, I've updated my web page with new photos and
updates.  Some inclusions are an old pic I found of my 71 442 I had in
high school, and pics of the OW-43 engine, promo 442 models, and "Apollo
442" dream/concept car.  Click on link below.
- -- 
Mike Rothe
69 H/O
71 442 HT
85 442 T-top
76 GMC 1/2 ton, 502 c.i.

http://pages.prodigy.net/mrothe/rocket.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 16:08:10 -0500
From: Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@1stnetusa.com>
Subject: Steering Column Refinishing

I have found a tilt steering column that will fit in my car.  It has some
fairly deep scratches (down to the metal) in the paint near the ignition
where keys have been rubbing it over the years.  I want to paint it before
installation and wondered if anyone has suggestions on how to fix the
scratches (would spot glaze work), preparation and what kind of paint to
use (it is black).

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 19:59:45 EST
From: RCKTPWR <RCKTPWR@aol.com>
Subject: Re: proper responses to Q's

In a message dated 97-12-07 11:26:39 EST, you write:

<< 
 Sounds as if you've been listening to "Detroit 442" (or should I say
 "Detroit Faw Faw Too"?) by Blondie...
 -- 
 Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
 71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
  >>
I must have missed that one...good tune???
Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 19:30:43 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: Steering Column Refinishing

Lloyd,

Spot glaze will work just fine, but do use wet/dry paper (600) to get it
nice as possible.  I would prime it nicely, sand it again, & use Krylon or
something like it to give it a nice finish.  A few light coats will do just
fine.

Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
Decatur, Alabama
'62 Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 convertible



>I have found a tilt steering column that will fit in my car.  It has some
>fairly deep scratches (down to the metal) in the paint near the ignition
>where keys have been rubbing it over the years.  I want to paint it before
>installation and wondered if anyone has suggestions on how to fix the
>scratches (would spot glaze work), preparation and what kind of paint to
>use (it is black).
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 21:18:51 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: The beginning of my adventure.

Saturday:

Arrive at Paul's Glass City Chassis at around noon after renting a
garden trailer from U-haul. Already had most stuff on the engine
disconnected. The transmission and flywheel bolts were very stubborn,
meaning we had to pull the tranny with the engine. Had to push the
Cutlass into the shop. Ugh. Had to go buy 2 1/2" bolts to put in the
heads so we (Dad and I) could use a chain for the engine puller. After
that was all taken care of, the "fun" starts. He starts to hoist the
engine while I push the car backwards. Ugh. The driveshaft comes loose
and, what have we here? Tranny fluid all over the floor!! Goody! One
mess to clean up! yay... Okay, the drivetrain came out. Using the most
brute-ish impact wrench Paul had, we managed to get all the tranny bolts
out of the trans and all but one out of the flywheel. Guess what? It's
stripped. Wow! So here comes Paul and his bolt cutter.
Zzzzzzzzeeeeerrrntt! gone. out. Tranny is now disconnected. Guess what?
Its 3:00. The body craves food, but the determination tells it to shut
the hell up! Okay, so now the car has to be moved back out so we can
bring in the trailor. woo-hoo. when does the fun stop? more pushing! The
trailer is in and the engine has been hoisted onto it and secured. Now,
out of Paul's (poor man wants to go home!), and down to a quarter
U-Do-It wash to blast some of the grease off. Stuff really wasn't too
keen on coming off, but oh well. We finally made it to George Bauchman's
Midwest Motors after taking a wrong turn or two. Assembled our engine
stand and hoisted the brute onto it after spilling some more oil and
antifreeze. Yet, another mess. Kinda makes you think "Next time, maybe
we'll DRAIN THE FLUIDS before we pull an engine!" Whew! What a day. I
slept like the dead last night!

Sunday:

 Dad and I made the half hour trip back down to George's today and
arrived about 1. Managed to disconnect all the vacuum lines and threw
them in a box. Got the Quadra-Junk off, and the Intake manifold and the
#8 heads and almost the oil pan. George's son had a basketball game.
Otherwise we might still be there! MAN! You wouldn't believe all the
CARBON CRAP deposits and ashes under the EGR. It only has 46,700 on it!
Boy, glad we'll be doing away with all that, or "de-federalizing" it as
George said. The block is in excellent shape. No boring or sleeveing
needed. George inspected the #6's I had, managed to get all the valves
loose, told us where to take that and the Nodular crank I have to have
them re-conditioned so they can be put to use. Took him the GK 288° cam
I bought from Chris Witt. Says one of the lobes is a little bad, but
nothing we can't fix. It was about 3:00 so we left. Ended up going back
to get the chain that Paul let us use. And, now here I am.

What an experience! After getting the engine OUT, it's not all that
hard. Guess what, tomorrow at 6pm, I'll be heading back down to finish
disassembeling it. You'll be sure to hear from me.
- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 21:19:19 -0800
From: "Jim L. Saylor" <jsaylor@sprintmail.com>
Subject: door alignment

i am trying to line up a new fender for my cutlass, and i can't seem to
get the body line straight, and the door hits the fender.  I now think
that the fender is fine, but the door is sagging, as the striker plate
is low.  i am unsure of how, if possible, to adjust or align the door
hinge?

Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 19:21:17 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: ADMIN-ALL (was:Apology) Member suggestions - non olds...

This post brings to mind a practice that may help others out greatly...


> have the terrible trouble remembering to change the "To:" header line when
> replying to emails I received on the list.

Many have adopted *.sig files on their messages, listing names,
addresses, etc.  By adding a html "mailto" tag on the sig file this
problem can be easily solved.  ~Most~ browsers will interpret the tag,
and give a pointer when moused over it (try on mine below).  When
clicking on the mailto tag, a new mail window opens up with ~me~ as the
recipient, instead of the list.  Netscape isn't as polite about changing
the "to:" line, most of the time you have to type it all out, cut and
paste don't even work right.  Not sure about this newest beta, but the
rest of them have been that way for me...

Using this html tag is simple.  Just type the word "mailto" (no quotes)
followed by a colon, and your email address.  A modified example would
be    
ma**to:yourname@youraddress.com        (The **'s are there to prevent
the mail reader from alterring the format I typed.  Some will mask the
actual html codes, I believe...)

Hope this helps some, and makes things more convenient for many...


Charley Buehner (The Oldsmobile Magnet)
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 21:51:46 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: [A[Afliers

[A[A whatever, dern antique mail handler

Fliers, that's the reason fer this post. Just got a call from the Great White
North. Old guy whose 98 I left a flier on is ready to part w/ it. '70 98
2-door, blue out, black inside. Tilt/tele, AM/FM, PW, PSeat, 455-4v runs great,
may be posi. I'm gonna buy it. Still drivable.

I tell you, fliers left here & there are a great way to make contacts. Just the
basic "Hi, I'm an Olds fan" and contact info, leave a more personalized not in
pen, stick in door crack [NOT under wiper where they have to get back out to
retrieve it]. Has gotten me many goodies. NOS '69 OAI scoops for one.

- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 21:04:15 -0700 (MST)
From: Ray <rayc@U.Arizona.EDU>
Subject: 403's

Can someone tell me all the cars that came with 403's from the factory.  I
may need to hunt down another one soon.  Thankya'll.

Ray in the desert
87 409 Cutlass 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 23:08:26 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: EGR is not A.I.R. (was: olds help, ?'s, info, goodies

>To make my own rocket roadworthy agian, it needs all new tires, ball joints
>and new tie rod ends too. (The steering's real loose.) I really would like to
>get this fixed soon at the least cost to me.  I understand that the car has
>to be aligned as the final step to all this work, but can I do the other
>stuff myself?  What all is involved in replacing upper and lower ball joints
>and tie rod ends?  What special tools do I need?  I know a lot more than

The only real special tools are the ball-joint/tie-rod separators
("pickle-forks", usually available for very cheap from discount tool places)
and the lower ball-joint press (very expensive, though some places loan them
out if you buy the parts there, or charge you like $20-$30/day for using it).

>average for my age, but not as much as I would like to.  I was thinking about
>maybe doing the tie rod ends and ball joints then letting the shop do the
>tires and stuff.  Plus, the recent cold damp weather makes me think that I
>will not get the time to do the ball joints myself outside. (I have no
>garage.)  If I do them myself I am on a VERY limited budget.

You can certainly do it, but the question is if you *want* to do it. We've
had the same weather up here, and as much as I like to work on my cars, I
haven't gone out there to do anything! Consider that it will take you around
2-3 times as long as the shop-rate for this kind of job (especially on your
first time through), that you *will* bust open some knuckles on a job like
this, and that you'll probably catch a cold from working out there for so
long in weather like this: as long as you can afford it, I'd recommend
paying someone else to do it for you.

>Also I checked my carb and intake numbers, and they both appear to be from
>1975.  I know from the VIN that it came with a 2bbl, so I figure that whoever
>converted it to a 4bbl swapped in a 75 setup.  My question is- Does this
>affect the flow any?  Would converting it to a 4bbl put any more stress on
>the engine if it came stock with 2bbls?  Probably not.  I've also heard that
>there were two versions of the quadrajet in '75- 750 cfm and 795 cfm.  If
>this is true, then how do you tell them apart?

Your engine will flow more air (and hence fuel), but it's not the additional
flow that causes additional strain; it's operating the engine at higher rpms
than you could with the 2-bbl that might cause the higher strain. I wouldn't
worry about it, though; the only difference between your 2-bbl engine and
the 4-bbl version of that engine was, in fact, the intake and carb.

>My intake has an EGR on it, but I figure that since the '72 heads aren't set
>up for an EGR valve that it did not matter.  I disconnected and plugged the
>hose anyway.  

As long as you're not pinging, then you're all set. Just double-check your
plugs to make sure that you're not running too lean.

>I also noticed that underneath the grime, my intake and water
>neck are painted bright blue (kinda metallic bright blue).  I know that some
>of the BB Olds engines were painted blue, but BB intakes should be quite a
>bit wider than SB ones, so I am wondering what this intake came off of.

The later Olds small-blocks ('73 onward?) were painted blue from the factory.

>After my car warms up, some blue smoke eminates from the pipes (mostly the
>driver's side one).  I know that somehow it is burning oil, but it was never
>that bad before.  Now, when I got the car, the hose from the breather cap to
>the air cleaner was a piece of garden hose.  I tossed it, thinking that it
>was no better than nothing.  All the recent talk about draft tubes and PCV
>systems makes me wonder did the removal of this tube affect the blowby in

Yes, it does. Replace it with the proper-type hose (the garden hose may not
have been better than nothing; the problem is, nothing still isn't what you
want there!).

>this side of the engine.  Also, when I changed the plugs, the one from
>cylinder #5 had some burnt oil deposits.  Could my valve seals be gone,
>causing the burning of oil in cyl #5? If they are too complicated to replace,
>I will just keep putting new oil in until rebuild time.  I replaced that old
>garden hose and that did not help.  I also have replaced the PCV vlve and the
>breather element.

I added a quart every 250 miles or so, and changed the #5 plug every two
weeks, due to an identical fouling problem. The problem I had was rings, I
believe. You can just tough it out until rebuild time (I drove this way for
three years; just kept an 8-pack of pre-gapped spark plugs, a spark plug
socket wrench, and a case of oil in my trunk at all times, and was never out
of action for more than five minutes any time the plug would foul up).

>One last question, why would my car have a driveshaft from '70?  It looks to
>have come from a junkyard because it says "70 OLDS" in yellow paint.  

Because it's identical to the one for a '72, so when somebody needed to
replace it in the last 25 years, the junkyard gave them one out of a
different-year car that fit.

>Also, I
>cannot find the stamped letter code on my axle.

Nobody can; that "stamped-letter" code rumor is just an ugly hoax that the
veteran Olds-list members like to play on newcomers...

;)
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 23:08:23 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: JWO

>I have not recieved any direct comments about the 425 cid Super Rocket specs
>(and I am incredibly far behind in my digests [catch up this weekend?]) so I
>am assuming they were taken at face value. 

Read them, and look forward to seeing them in the FAQ.

>Mind you, Given those BV vs. SV "E"-block posts, I toyed with the notion that
>mayhaps the "A" block had big and small valves.
>
>Of course, common sense got the better of me. The first big valves were in the
>1966 "B" heads on the first Toronado cars. This may have been intentional, to
>compensate for the relatively poor flow of the lo-rise manifold.

Well, two 1965 engines that I had always assumed came with the 2.07" intake
valves were the 442's 400ci motor, and the Starfire/Jetstar I's
high-performance 425. Maybe these engines were later introductions, and thus
their specs don't show up in the shop manual?
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 23:08:30 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: new problems, need HELP!

>In terms of your alternator a simple trick I've learned of, correct me 
>if I'm wrong, but taking a screwdriver (or something metal and 
>touching it to the back of your alternator (with engine running)
>would give you some general notion as to its condition. An alternator 
>has magnetic fields and should show attraction to metal on its 
>backside.  Now I've never tried this, but I've heard of it done.

Well, this might verify whether the alternator was magnetic or not, but that
has very little to do with its operation. If it is indeed an
internally-regulated alternator (and since there was a voltage regulator on
the firewall, it wouldn't be too good if it was in fact an
internally-regulated alternator!), then grounding the tab in the hole in the
back of the case overrides the internal regulator, so you can test whether
the alternator or regulator is at fault.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 20:15:17 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re:'67 Delta

Bill - could you ask how much he wants for the rear bumper?  Paranoia - 


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser (twin hauler)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 23:28:35 -0500
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale 

                                        C&M Classic Parts
                                      1132 Chatmoss Drive
                                    Virginia Beach, VA 23464
                                         (757)474-0869 or
                                      <chermac@exis.net>
Hours:  Mon-Fri  6:00 pm - 10:00 pm, Sat 9:00 am - 6:00 pm, Sunday Closed
We accept all major Credit Cards. VISA, M/C, Amer. Express, and Discover.
New Parts:
Lots of new reproduction parts will be coming out in January.

66 W-30 Shrouds (stamped steel, chromed) $1795.00
67 W-30 Shrouds (stamped steel, chromed) $995.00
66 & 67 Track Pac kits (complete, just like the dealer option includes;
shroud, ducts, hoses, cam/lifters, battery accessories) Mar/Apr 98
____________________________________________________________________ 
68-69 442 400 cu in stick engine (bal, blueprinted, mild cam, rebuilt)  $1000.00
64-67 Power Steering Setup pump&steering box (very good)  $85.00
64-67 Power Steering Bracket  $15.00
64-67 Alternator Brackets (A/C car)  $20.00 set
69-72 4 Row Radiator Top Plate (nice)  $65.00 
69-72 Ignition Switch (w/o tilt)  *new*  $24.00
69-72 Ignition Switch (w/tilt) *new*  $22.00
71-72 M-22 Muncie "Rockcrusher"  (excellent cond)  $750.00
71 W-30 "TO" Code 10 bolt 3.73:1 anti-spin (date code '352 70') mint  $700.00
75 Hurst Olds (Hurst Hatches) no bags  $175.00 pr
69-72 LH "W" Manifold (pitted)  $85.00
70-72 Lower A/C Vents (for 8 Track car, mint, black)  $90.00 pr 
70-72 Dash Pad and Dash Plastic (radio area, green, mint)  $185.00
66-67 Toro Dual Snorkel Air cleaner  (mint) $50.00
67-68 Big Cars AM/FM Stereo (nice, works well)  $95.00
69-72  Bench Seat Headrests (black, mint)  $45.00 pr
68-72 Arm Rest Pad Bases (front, black)  $20.00 pr
68-72 Arm Rest Pad Bases (rear, post coupe, black)  $20.00 pr
68-72 Rear Defrost  (no switch)  $30.00
68-72 2 Door Chassis (coupe, solid)  $300.00 (you arrange shipping or pickup)
69-72 Column Shift Steering Column (plain)  $45.00
69-70 Console Shift Steering Column (non-tilt)  $95.00
64-72 Power Window Motors  (excellent cond) $50.00 ea
68-72 Power Steering setup  (complete)  $60.00
70 350 engine "7" heads (9000 miles, 10.0 comp, 328 stick cam)  $500.00
70-72 455 Engine Mount (NEW, made in USA)  $40.00 pr
68-72 350 Engine Mount (NEW, Made in USA)  $38.00 pr
64-72 Jetaway/TH350, 4 Spd Muncie Trans Mount (NEW, made in USA)  $14.00 
67-72 TH400 Trans Mounts (NEW, made in USA)  $17.00 ea
(6) Hurst Wheels 14x6 (5 on 4 3/4) nice  $2300.00 
70-75 Sport Steering Wheels (black, nice centers, complete)  $130.00 ea
70-71 Buick GS Ram Air cleaner (nice)  $155.00
72 Buick GS Ram Air cleaner (mint restored)  $200.00
Bumper Bracket sets ALL years  $25.00 pr

****Lots of  66-68 Toronado Parts too.****

New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts for 1964-1972 Cutlass/442
_______________________________________________     
65 Cutlass/442 PO2 Deluxe Wheelcovers (N.O.S.)  $350.00
66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea                           
68-75 SSII/III Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea                       
69 Cutlass RH Grilles (N.O.S.) $85.00 ea                             
70 Cutlass Supreme Grilles (N.O.S.)  $120.00 pr
70-72 LH Coupe/Conv Door Skin (N.O.S.)  $200.00
70-72 Cutlass/442 LH Fenders (N.O.S. (2) left) $550.00 ea               
71-72 Turn Signal Lens (N.O.S.)  $90.00 pr                          
71-72 Stone Shields (N.O.S.) $38.00 ea                              
71-72 Headlight Housings (plastic) (N.O.S.) $80.00 pr          
71-72 Cutlass Rear Bumpers (N.O.S. (1 left) $400.00 ea               
71-75  Cutlass Fender Emblems (N.O.S.)  $19.50 ea            
72 Cutlass Supreme & Hurst/Olds Grilles (N.O.S.)  $120.00 pr

Used Parts
_______________________________________________      
64 Cutlass/442                       
64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $100.00
RH Headlight Bezel  $15.00                                                  
Front Bumper Core  $50.00                                                   
F-85 Fender Emblem (nice)  $5.00                                      

65 Cutlass/442
64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $100.00
65 Cutlass/442 Wheelwell Moldings  LH/RH rear $15.00 ea
65 425 111089 Distributor  $20.00
65-(early) 66 Plain Full Wheel Covers (4, mint)  $30.00 

66 Cutlass/442
64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $100.00
66 Cutlass Trunk Molding (very good)  $85.00
66 F-85 Deluxe Wheel Well Moldings (3, mint, missing RF)  $90.00 (3)
66-68 Bucket Seat Backs (2) and Sides (4) (metal, nice, black)  $75.00 all
66 Cutlass Tail Light Bezels (very good)  $85.00 pr
65-(early) 66 Plain Full Wheel Covers (4, mint)  $30.00 
66 Turbine Full Wheel Covers (4) good  $80.00 set
66 Cutlass/442 Side Chrome moldings (almost complete set) Inquire
66 F-85 Post Coupe Doors (very good cond)  $90.00 ea, 170.00 pr
66 F-85/Cutlass grille (nice)   $55.00
66 F-85/Cutlass grille (good)  $35.00 
66 330 cu in 2 bbl engine (complete w/trans, 17,000 original miles)  $300.00  
66 Cutlass/442 Hood Molding  (fair cond, small crack)  $15.00
66-67 AM Radios (nice)  $30.00 ea
66-67 RH Hardtop Doors (very nice)  $90.00 ea
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
66 Cutlass/442 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
Post Coupe Exterior A-Pillar Chrome Moldings  $15.00 pr                        
F-85/Cutlass Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea                                  

67 Cutlass/442
67 4 spd Speedometer Adapter (3.42 gears & 4spd)  $45.00
67 Cutlass Plain Full Hubcaps (4, mint)  $30.00
67 Plain Cutlass Holiday Hardtop interior door panels and rear sides (very
nice, blue/green) $85.00 set of 4
67 Cutlass Jetaway Trans (low miles, w/switch pitch converter)  $125.00
67 Cutlass/F-85 Grille Bar (very nice, no cracks, good chrome)  $45.00
67-69 Power Antenna assm (nice, no switch)  $45.00
66-67 Rear Side window lower U-seals (new, Metro Moulded)  $18.00 pr
67 W-30 Core Support (Factory stamped, bent on drivers side)  $225.00
67 Cutlass Hood (mint)  $100.00
67 Cutlass Fender Emblems (nice)  $10.00 ea
67 Plain Cutlass Fender Rockets (nice)  $5.50 ea
67 Rear Defrost setup (w/switch)  $45.00
66-67 AM Radios  (nice)  $30.00 ea
66-67 RH Hardtop/Conv Doors (very nice)  $90.00 ea
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
67 F-85 Rear Bumper (very good condition)  $75.00
67 Front Bumper (straight, core)  $70.00
67 Cutlass Headlight Bezels (nice)  $50.00 pr
67 442 Trunk Lids (clean)  $90.00 ea
67 442 Pie Tin Decal  $3.00
67 RH Fender (small metal patch panel, straight)  $165.00

68 Cutlass/442
68-69 Cutlass/442 Post Coupe LH Door  $85.00
68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
68 Turn Signal Lens (mint)  $12.00 ea
68 Cutlass Rear Bumper (core)  $75.00
68-69 14x6 SSII Wheels (set of 5)  $200.00
68-69 Power Antenna Assm (no switch, has adapter, needs mast)  $25.00
68 AM Radio  $25.00
68  8-Track Unit (housing cracked, needs plastic one)  $65.00
68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
68-69 LH Quarter Panel  4 door (mint)  $135.00
68-69 RH Quarter Panel  4 door (mint)  $135.00
68-72 Cutlass S LH Rear Side Glass (clear)  $35.00              
Rear Window Molding Sets  $45.00 set                               
68 Cutlass/442 Std Horn Button (black, nice)  $7.00                     
68 Air Cleaner Stove Pipe (pipe only)  $10.00                              
68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $40.00 ea                                            
68-72 Cowl mouldings  $25.00 ea                                
68-72 B-Pillar Molding Set (black, mint) $27.50 pr 

69 Cutlass/442
68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
69 Rallye Pack (Gauge side only)  $75.00
69 Cutlass RH Grille (nice, used)  $40.00
69 442 RH Grille (nice) $50.00
69 Cruise Control Switch and Bezel  $25.00
69 Radiator Core Support 3 Row (mint, no rust holes)  $150.00
69 Tail Light Bezels (nice, pit free)  $135.00 pr
69 Trunk Lid (Conv, nice)  $175.00
69 Headlight Bezels  $60.00 pr
69 Lower Dash (radio area)  (nice)  $35.00
69 C/S Side Moldings (mint, no pits)  $15.00 ea
68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
68-69 LH Quarter Panel 4 door (mint)  $135.00
68-69 RH Quarter Panel 4 door (mint)  $135.00
69 Cutlass/442 Doors 2 dr Hardtop (mint pair)  $200.00 pr / $110.00 ea
69-72 Hood Hinges  $40.00 pr
69-70 "S" Hood Louver Chrome  $25.00 pr
69-70 "S" Hood Louver Moldiings  $25.00 pr
68-72 Windshield Molding Sets  $45.00 set                                 
68-72 Fastback Rear Window Molding Sets  $45.00 set
69-72 Floor Shift Steering Column (very good)  $95.00
69 LH Top Fender Moldings (excellent) $35.00
69 RH Fender (small nickel sized hole)  $200.00
69 Rear Bumper (V05 rub strip) one small ding  $135.00
69 Front and Rear 4 Doors  (small dings, no rust) $55.00 ea
69 4 Door Panels (Gold, cloth, nice)  $25.00 ea

70 Cutlass/442
70 LH/RH Hood "L" moldings (few small pits under side, nice chrome) $95.00 pr
70-72 Rallye Pack (Tach only, works needs needle end)  $125.00
70 Std Auto console neutral safety switch w/bracket  $65.00
70-72 LH Fender (dimpled, nice)  $185.00
70-72 Power Lock Solenoids (electric)  $35.00 ea
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
70-72 RH Door (Coupe/Conv)  $110.00
70-72 Wide Chrome window moldings (with sweepers)  $50.00 set
70 350 4 bbl Stick engine (complete, minus carb runs great)  $275.00
70 FLAT Fender RH (small metal patch panel installed nice)  $300.00 
70 Cutlass Supreme Door Panels (black mint) 4 for $100.00
70 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
70 Cutlass Supreme Hood (excellent)  $115.00
70 442/SX/Rally 350 Rear Cutout Bumper (CORE)  $110.00
70-71 Halo Vinyl Top Molding sets no "L " moldings (mint) $55.00 set
70-72 455 Std. Iron intake manifold (auto cars)  $55.00
70-72 Std. Auto Console Shift Lens  (repro)  $23.00 ea (backordered)
70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switch Bezels  $5.00 ea             
70 RH Sport Mirror Shell  $40.00
70 F-85 Horn Button (cheap style wheel, excellent)  $10.00
70 Oldsmobile Options Folder  $5.00                                    
69-70 C/S Front Hood Rocket (nice)  $12.00                                
69-70 "S" Hood Chrome Vents  $25.00 pr                                        
69-70 "S" Hood Vent Moldings  $25.00 pr                                        
70 "S" Pillared Coupe Door Panels (good cond)  $40.00 pr         
70 Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $90.00                                  
70-72 Black A/C Dash Pads  $100.00 ea                  
70-72 Glove Box Doors  $15.00 ea
70-72 RH Fender (has small patch panel)   $185.00                               
70 Cutlass 'S' Tail Light Lens   $17.00 ea
70 Cutlass Supreme Tail Light Lens  $23.00 ea

71 Cutlass/442
70-72 Rallye Pack (Tach only, works needs needle end)  $125.00
70-72 LH Fender (dimpled, nice)  $185.00
70-72 Power Lock Solenoids (electric)  $35.00 ea
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
70-72 RH Door (Coupe/Conv)  $110.00
71-72 Power Lock Switches  $12.00 ea
71-72 Power Window Switches (nice)  $25.00 (4) button,  $10.00 singles
71-72 Fender RH (small metal patch in bottom)  $185.00
71 350 4 bbl Engine (complete, carb to pan, runs excellent) $250.00
71 Cutlass Full Wheel Covers  $30.00 set
71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00
70-72 C/S LH/RH Side Glass  $25.00 ea 
71 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr

72 Cutlass/442
70-72 Rallye Pack (Tach only, works needs needle end)  $125.00
70-72 LH Fender (dimpled, nice)  $185.00
70-72 Power Lock Solenoids (electric)  $35.00 ea
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
70-72 RH Door (Coupe/Conv)  $115.00
71-72 Power Lock Switches  $12.00 ea
71-72 Power Window Switches (nice)  $25.00 (4) button,  $10.00 singles
71-72 10 Bolt 2.56:1 (open rear)  $75.00
72 Cutlass/442 Owners Manual  $7.00                                  
71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00
72 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr            


Jim Chermack
OCA #24275

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 23:27:13 -0800
From: Boogah Wolfe <boogah@en.com>
Subject: Non Olds Stuff

Excuse the non-olds question, but does anyone know if there is a list
server similar to this one dealing with Ponchos? Have a buddy who is big
into them and when I told him about this he asked me to check.

Thanks
Joe
72 Cutlass Supreme
62000 Miles

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 23:30:58 -0500
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: 403's

At 09:04 PM 12/7/97 -0700, you wrote:
Ray

        You should find them in:
77-79 Trans Ams
77-79 Ninety Eights
77-79 Eighty Eights
77-79 Toronados
77-79 Pontiac Bonnevilles
77-79 Buick Electras
77-79 Buick LeSabres

Jim Chermack


>Can someone tell me all the cars that came with 403's from the factory.  I
>may need to hunt down another one soon.  Thankya'll.
>
>Ray in the desert
>87 409 Cutlass 
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 23:38:16 -0500
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: RE: Parts For Sale

At 03:33 PM 12/6/97 -0600, you wrote:
Russell

        I have the power antenna but no switch. That was an older ad.

Jim Chermack


>69' Power antenna & switch 		$60.00
>
>Do you still have this?   If so I'd like to buy it if you have all
supporting hardware?
>
>rgbaker@wt.net
>" If it's worth doing.  Then do it right ! "
>Russell G. Baker
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From:	Robert Schinkel [SMTP:docbob@caninet.com]
>Sent:	Monday, December 01, 1997 3:53 PM
>To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject:	Parts For Sale
>
>Some parts have been just thrown into any year cause they are basically
>universal between 68 - 72 and don't need to be entered into each column...
>Such as sway bars 
>
>
>PLEASE   E - me direct and
>I'll get back to you A.S.A.P
>
>Robert Schinkel
>docbob@caninet.com
>
>1968
>
>Wheel well chrome			$20.00 each.
>Front side markers			$15.00 each
>Rear side markers			$15.00 each
>Black dash pad  Mint			$90.00
>Hood Hinges				$35.00
>400 engine  (out of 68 442  )		$350.00
>Th400 OG				$100.00
>442 Air cleaner				$75.00
>3 speed console (standard shift)		$275.00
>C casting heads	 (complete)		$175.00
>Cutlass Grill 				$95.00
>Cutlass Convertible Trunk lid Mint	$250.00
>Cutlass trunk lid ( southern)		$150.00
>Headlight Frames (plastic)		$250.00
>
>1969
>
>442 Grills exc.				$190.00
>SSI's   code JK 14x6 set of 4		$100.00
>Nos reverse light lens (in box)		$15.00
>Power antenna & switch 		$60.00
>Wiper switch 				$40.00
>Radio plate (uncut)			$20.00
>Power Top switch & wiring		$45.00
>Rear defroster Switch & wiring		$25.00
>Plastic headlight frames 			$75.00
>Cutlass Conv. Trunk lid (Southern)	$150.00
>Dash pad (gold)				$90.00
>
>1970
>
>Tail light lens (Cutlass)			$10.00 each
>Tail light lens (Supreme)			$12.00 each
>Nos fender script "Cutlass"		$30.00 each
>Nos Horn Contact (sport wheel)		$20.00 each
>Nos 442 emblem sets (full)		$225.00 
>F85 fender script 			$30.00 pr.
>Rear side marker lights			$15.00 each
>Front side marker lights			$20.00 each
>Conv. Pump, Cyl.,and lines		$150.00
>Nos Boxed lower Control Arms		$225.00
>Rear Spoiler (original)			$275.00
>Rear Sway Bar				$60.00
>1" 1/8 front sway bar (heavy duty)	$60.00 
>
>1971 & 1972
>
>Nos headlight frames(plastic)		$75.00 pr.
>Front bumper directional lens		$10.00 ea.
>Tail light lens				$10.00 ea.
>Power bench seat 			$100.00
>Trunk lid script "O-L-D-S-M-O-B-I-L-E"	$30.00
>Dash pad (olive)				$75.00
>Dash pad ( blue)				$75.00
>Dash pad (black)			$75.00
>442 Grills good condition (with emblems)	$200.00
>4 Speed console (VGC.includes key)	$200.00
>Auto Console (black)			$90.00
>Auto Console (Tan)			$90.00
>Auto Console (Brown)			$90.00
>Auto Console (Green)			$90.00
>
>Literature
>
>1961 F - 85 Service Manual		$40
>1970 Sales Booklet 			$20
>1973 Sales Booklet			$20
>1974 Sales Booklet			$20
>1974 Sales Booklet (Omega)		$20
>
>To my best of knowledge each of these parts are in Good condition and
>that's why I advertise them for sale.  Some have been repaired such as
>grills,  But I take much pride in my repair work and hope you will be
>satisfied with my efforts.
>
>If there is something you are searching for and it is not on the list
>please feel free to ask I am more then happy to hunt for parts.  
>
>Shipping is extra 
>
>Robert Schinkel
>docbob@caninet.com
>905-357-4454
>
>
>
>Attachment Converted: C:\EXIS32\download\RE Parts For Sale
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 23:40:23 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: engine kill

Would ya believe Chris that they tell you in driver's ed to shift into
neutral if the engine runs away.  At least they did back when I took it
in `93.  The logic being that you can more readily stop and steer the
car with the power going steering and brakes still operational.  I
argued the point with the instructor, pointed out that most power brake
boosters have enough vacuum reserve for one application with the engine
off. (surprise surprise, a smart ass 15 year old :)   He said something
to the effect that the book sez so, the test comes from the book, and
it's too early to argue.

I say they made thoes brake pedals 6 inches wide for a reason. :)  With
both feet on the brake I can lock 'em up real good even without power.
With just one foot I can stop well enough for most situations.
Greg Pruett
===================
I guess I might believe that. The world is after all run by boneheads.
Personally, I think that steering and brakes work ok even w/o "power" and would
really really rather not buy another motor. For the test I might answer as they
wish, but in real life, off goes the key.


- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #995
********************************

