To:	oldsmobile-digest @ chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #928


oldsmobile-digest      Thursday, October 30 1997      Volume 01 : Number 928



Hurst Olds Questions
Re: Tire rod disaster
Wanted: 68 cutlass tilt wheel shift collar...
Re: Scanners and Computer digital cameras
Olds in local salvage yard
Re: Dash lights repair
200-4R depression
cheap 200-4R's
trouble code scanner info
part needed
Re: Weekend sights, interesting F/S???
Re: My 66 Toro
Re[2]: What to do?
'66 Toro - what's it worth?
Re: Dr. Bob's signature
Re: part needed
Re: Tire rod disaster
Re: '66 Toro - what's it worth?
Re: What to do?
water pumps
Re: 200-4R depression
Re: Scanners and Computer digital cameras
Re: Re[2]: What to do?
Re: BUSY WEEKEND
Re: Quad 4 Time slips
Re: water pumps
FW: Ransom Eli Olds Tombstone ideas
Re: Re[2]: What to do?
Re: trouble code scanner info
Re: Hurst Olds Questions
Re: D88 Water Leaks
Re: Dash lights repair
HEI Swaps?
Hard Hot Start Tip
What induction?
No Comment on cool brake tricks?
Firewall Insulation
Re: HEI Swaps?
HEI Further Thoughts
Re: Quad 4 Trannies
Which Tranny Swaps?
403 tri-power?
Re: 403 tri-power?
RE: W-41/SCX Clutch Disk
The "OFFICIAL" 100th. Centennial Video
Votes
Holley Carb.
Re: Holley Carb.
Re: What induction?
Re: 455 crank
Cutlass Seats
Stinky Upholstery--yuk
Re: Stinky Upholstery--yuk

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 13:12:36 -0500 (EST)
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: Hurst Olds Questions

Can somebody give me some information on a 1979 Hurst Olds? It's mint
condition, dualgate, white with gold, says W-30 and has a 350. Can somebody
give me some information on a car like this? What type of rear end would be
in it? Are these cars valuable? Is it a rare car?

Thanks,
Jim

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 13:21:25 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Tire rod disaster

>My tire rod fell out when I was driving last weekend. Luckily I was able
>to park the car and call a towtruck easily. I was wondering what could
>have caused this to happen and what I should expect to pay to have it
>fixed. Thank you.

Well, I'm glad you were able to stop that car! That has the potential for
major disaster written all over it!

The Tie-rod is part of the steering linkage; in fact, there are two on each
side, connected to each other by an adjusting sleeve. There are a couple
ways these can "fail" (though it's often not the rod itself that is the
cause of the failure):

1) It can physically break in half, which is extremely unlikely
2) The ball-joint at the end can come apart, which is also unlikely
3) The castle-nut holding the tapered ball stud into the drag link or the
spindle arm can back off, causing this to come disconnected; this is really
not a tie-rod failure, but an assembly failure, as there should be a
cotter-pin holding that castle nut in place, and it's only when that's
missing that the nut can back off. This is one of those things, like brake
fluid level, that you *always* check and make sure is present before you
drive a used car on the street.
4) The adjuster sleeve can loosen up, and the tie rod can pull out of it.
This is also unlikely.

I'd guess that ª3 is the case for your car, in which case you might be able
to simply bolt that tie-rod's stud back in place. If not, tie-rods are
relatively cheap, and the labor should not take more than 1/2 hour, but
then you'll need an alignment. In addition, the presence and condition of
the cotter pins should be checked by whomever does an alignment on the car,
so if you've had an alignment done recently, I *wouldn't* take your car
back there if in fact a missing cotter pin was the cause of your troubles.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 97 12:27:52 -0600
From: scc@teamquest.com
Subject: Wanted: 68 cutlass tilt wheel shift collar...

I am converting my automatic shift from the column to a floor shift and
need the steering column collar that eliminates the column shift.  Note
this is for a 68 cutlass with tilt wheel.


I am also in need of the fill plug for the power convertible top motor.
Mine was missing when I bought the car, and it no longer has any fluid in
the motor.  Kinda messy don't you know!!!



Thanks!!!

Stephen 68-cutlass/442-convertible Chuck

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 13:56:16 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Scanners and Computer digital cameras

To Don, and anybody else looking for a scanner (maybe for Christmas? :-)...

Hewlett-Packard is one of the most popular manufacturer of computer
equipment, known mostly for their printers.  But, they do make good
scanners...it seems like most scanners I see are HP scanners.  I've had
very good luck with HP scanners; we use them at work.  Generally, the more
"bits" there are, the better quality image you'll get after the scan.
Also, check the speed rating, if there is one.  Can't give you any baseline
ratings, but as you can imaging, it can get real frustrating waiting for a
pre-scan or something like that.  Epson also makes good scanners.  Usually,
if you haven't heard of a company before, there is a good reason.  You
should try to stay with main stream corporations, for a few reasons.  The
popular ones will be compatible with most operating systems, including
Windows 95.  Also, the more popular scanners will be supported in the
service department at your local computer store.  I don't know where you
live, but there are many stores who sell scanners, and who can assist you
in purchasing one.  Best Buy is a good store with very reasonable prices.
They have a pretty good computer sales department that is extremely
helpful.  Also, check out CompUSA, if you have one nearby.  They will also
be helpful in assisting you in your purchase.

Sorry, but I can't help you much with digital cameras.  Epsons are real
good, we have some at work.  Don't really know much else; no digital camera
experience here...

Well, to Don and the rest, hope this helps.
_______________________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
OCA ª028044

http://www.erols.com/adcockjk
1984 Cutlass Supreme Calais
1992 Ford Crown Victoria LX
1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 20:23:09 -0600
From: "Travis Adams" <cashmore@imt.net>
Subject: Olds in local salvage yard

I came across the following cars at a local salvage yard.  What appears to
be a 66 Toro.  I am no expert on these cars but this one did have the
complete engine with B cast heads.  Thus according to the FAQ it is a 66.
There were also 2 1970 Olds 98's.  One with a big block E heads and an air
cleaner that said 455 rocket.  The other had no engine.  They both had
decent bodies and fair interior.  Definitely did not look like they should
have been in a salvage yard.  All located in MT for those interested.
Travis Adams
65 442 post

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 13:11:01 -0600
From: "Green, Andrew" <acg@datalogics.com>
Subject: Re: Dash lights repair

>>If memory serves the dash lights for the speedo use twist-in ª194
sockets
>>that the wedgy bases of the bulbs press into. Those sockets contact
the
>>printed circuit on the back of the speedo case. Are the little metal
tangs
>>on the base of the socket making good contact with the printed
circuit?
>>That would be the first thing I'd check.
>
>   I believe these are all push in bulbs.  Not srew in type.

Well, yes; the socket twists into place (about 1/8 turn), though the
wedge-base
bulbs press straight in.

> What is happening here is through the three guages
> the unlit portion is split in half between the middle guage.

I think the right-side pod, holding either a clock or tach, is
physically separate
from the left and center, which are two openings over one assembly. I'd
guess
you have one bulb out in the main (left/center) assembly, and no lights
at all
on the right-hand one. Also (going from memory of the '69 and '72
Pontiacs
I had), the right-side unit does not use wedge-base bulbs and sockets
but
a press-in type socket holding a bayonet-base bulb... um, 1896 or
something
like that, with a big round glass envelope. There was a total of two
sockets in
the right-side housing, whether a clock or tach in the Pontiac models,
which
were linked together with gray wire, not a printed circuit.

>   I think what I may need to do at this point is to remove the circuit
> board but I'm not sure how to disassemble the dash to do it.  Then
again I
> might be able to resolve this without taking it all apart.  How
difficult is
> it to remove the dash in a '69 4-4-2?

Um, I don't think it's much fun. Try reaching up from underneath to get
at
the lighting sockets that way and leave the dash assembly as a whole
alone.
You may have to remove the lower A/C duct assemblies to get room, but
they're pretty easy to R&R.
- --
Andrew C. Green             (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.            email: acg@datalogics.com
101 N. Wacker, Ste. 1800    http://www.datalogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301     Fax: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 12:22:51 -0700 (MST)
From: Ray <rayc@U.Arizona.EDU>
Subject: 200-4R depression

Damn it.  I had my father call a friend of his who owns a transmission
shop to get an estimate on a TH350 to TH200-4R conversion in my 87
Cutlass.  The estimate is $1500-2000!  Can this be accurate.

What jacks up the cost is:
- ->I took the computer out of my car, so I would need a separate switch to
  lock up the torque converter.
- ->Extra brackerty would need to be fabricated for the carb.
- ->Cut and balance driveshaft. <- Is this necessary for 350-2004R swap?!!

I would not want to have any trans. work done by anyone but him, but if I
spend that much money, I won't even be able to afford a shifter for the
transmission!

My main question is, what can I do about not having the computer in my
car.  (I won't replace, that's not an option)  What did they do prior to
81 with AOD cars?  Was it a different trans.  If so, what?  Also, is it
necessary to have a locking troque converter?  What are the
advantages/disadvantages of having a non-lockup or a lockup?


Also, if anyone knows of someone who'll do the actual swap cheaper and is
GOOD, please let me know.  It can be in the Tucson, AZ area or
Philadelphia area.
Thankyou.  I won't kill myself yet.






Ray in the desert
87 409 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 12:24:32 -0700 (MST)
From: Ray <rayc@U.Arizona.EDU>
Subject: cheap 200-4R's

Some people asked me for the phone number of this guy I came across who
has 7 200-4R's for sale, cheap.  I don't know if I responded to everyone.
If you want that number, I have now, so let me know.

Ray in the desert
87 409 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 13:26:43 -0600 (CST)
From: jkpkobin@discover-net.net (Jeff & Patti Kobinsky)
Subject: trouble code scanner info

I'm looking for information on scanner for GM trouble codes and was
wondering if you have any reccomendations for low cost unit?

What ever happened to a six pack and a screwdriver to trouble shoot GM?

I know you can "flash" the code on the check engine light - but I want
something a little better than that.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 14:29:12 -0500
From: Joseph Gambaccini <jgambaccini@ci.richmond.va.us>
Subject: part needed

i'm looking for the pipe that goes from the exhaust manifold shroud to
the air cleaner ('not sure what it's called).  it's for a '72 442 with a
455. i saw one at carlisle and was told it was for a 455 but wasn't sure
it was the right part.  this part is scarce in the 'yards around here.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 12:51:17 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Weekend sights, interesting F/S???

Paul Hartlieb wrote:
>
> Charley Buehner wrote:
>
> > This thing has a ~slant~ 4,
>
> Charley
>
> I doubted on this at first, but you're right.  Pontiac called it an
> "inclined 4".

I'm inclined to accept that term :)

> Man ª1: "Is that a Slant 6?"
> Man ª2: "Naw, its a straight 6 with a bad motor mount".
> When a cow laughs does milk come up its nose?

Cute.  I'd often wonderred that same thing...  :)

Charley Buehner
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 14:43:38 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: My 66 Toro

>I just purchase a 1966 Toronado Deluxe Burgandy Poly Mist with 97,000
>original miles on it.  I love it.  It drives great.  I would like to get
>info. and correspondence with other 66 Toro owner.

Well, my Toro is a '69, but there's also a discussion list dedicated to
Toronados. You can find this information at the Toro FAQ page, which is

http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/torofaqs.htm

and more specifically:

http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/tororule.html


__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 14:56:31 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re[2]: What to do?

>possible.  Did Olds make an engine bigger than the 307 during '84-present.
>
>..One idea that crossed my mind is putting an Olds 350 in it and just
>not telling anyone.  Everything is esentially the same between the two
>motors, but I don't know if the emissions testers could tell the
>difference.
>
>     That would be my choice.  In my experience with smog testing in
>     California, the test facility workers don't check engine ID numbers
>     unless you point out that it is an engine swap or unless the engine is
>     obviously not original (455 in a VW, for example).

In addition, the casting numbers could be removed as well, or at least
covered with enough grease to make reading them impossible.

>     You are correct that all small block Olds motors are externally
>     identical, so why stop at a 350 - go for a 403!  I've talked to others
>     who have done this swap and the stock carb and computer will work with
>     the larger engine.  Just paint it GM corporate blue.  I'd go so far as

Just a note: didn't GM go to a "corporate black" to further un-distinguish
their "corporate" motors?
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 14:53:34 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: '66 Toro - what's it worth?

>as a Caddy freak I'm new to this thing, but since I
>saw a '66 Toro for sale here in Belgium, I kinda fell
>in love with this black beast and would like to know
>more about its current value.
>
>Haven't had the opportunity to properly check it, but
>it seems a C or condition ª3 car, but anyway if
 [snip]
>In the "Oldsmobile Buyers Guide" by Richard M.
>Langworth I read that '66 Toronado's are a five-star
>investment and that originals for under 10 K are a
>steal (back in '87) and that it should be climbing up
>to 25K the next ten years (that should be about now).
>Browsing the ads, I find most cars of that models for
>between 4K and 8K $.
>Have these cars depreciated in value, have people
>lost interest or were those just bad examples?

Collector car prices in general took a major dive in the
late-80's/early-90's, so that information is a bit dated. There are a few
show-quality Toronados that may be found in the $10,000-$15,000 range, but
those are perfect, low-mile, high-option cars. Most are in the
$2,000-$6,000 range, in perfectly serviceable condition. The prices may go
up, but in general, a Toronado owner must be dedicated to paying a premium
price for the inevitable maintanence on their car, which involves parts
that are largely unique to that model, and in the case of
body/interior/trim, many pieces are one-year only items. Thus, a novice
looking to owning a classic car will usually choose something easier to
restore and preserve, even though it lacks the distinction of the Toronado.

Another thing, however: very few Toronados have escaped the usual problems
that afflict all these beauties: A-pillar rust, trunk rust due to rotted
drain tubes, rust around the windshield that causes leaks, worn front
suspension parts, rotted exhaust systems, rusted frame-rails and floors,
malfunctioning convenience items (Comfortron, power windows and seats,
radio, etc.), so the cars you see in the $4,000-$8,000 range will generally
need quite a bit of work to be perfect, and since this kind of repair work
involves unique parts or custom metalworking, you end up paying at least
$4,000-$6,000 making the car perfect.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 13:04:09 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Dr. Bob's signature

< < < S N I P > > >
(Someone has to do it!!!)

> Robert, maybe you could use 403+6 to avoid confusion.  But someone
> might
> think it is a 440 6-pack destroked, sleeved or whatever.

Yeah, and the rest of us would want to know where he found the tri-power
setup for the 403!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 15:26:57 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: part needed

Joseph Gambaccini wrote:
>
> i'm looking for the pipe that goes from the exhaust manifold shroud to
> the air cleaner ('not sure what it's called).  it's for a '72 442 with a
> 455. i saw one at carlisle and was told it was for a 455 but wasn't sure
> it was the right part.  this part is scarce in the 'yards around here.

Just measure the diameter (2 inch, for example) of the openings and goto
your local auto parts store and ask for a 2 inch heat stove pipe.  They
should know what you are talking about.  It'll probably cost 5 or 6 bucks,
$10 max.  Mine cost me something like $4.50.
_______________________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
OCA ª028044

http://www.erols.com/adcockjk
1984 Cutlass Supreme Calais
1992 Ford Crown Victoria LX
1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 12:56:57 -0500
From: Joseph Gambaccini <jgambaccini@ci.richmond.va.us>
Subject: Re: Tire rod disaster

i had one done for $80 a couple of years ago.  i've been told by a
couple of local mechanics to stay away from TRW suspension parts -
junk!  i once had to re-replace a ball joint (TRW) after 3 years (???).

Patrick Rose wrote:
>
> My tire rod fell out when I was driving last weekend. Luckily I was able
> to park the car and call a towtruck easily. I was wondering what could
> have caused this to happen and what I should expect to pay to have it
> fixed. Thank you.
>
> Patrick
> '68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 13:14:39 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: '66 Toro - what's it worth?

Todd Morris wrote:
>
> This shows the foolishness of 1) relying on "expert"
> views of what these cars might be worth in the future, and
> 2) buying these cars for investment reasons.
>
> In my view, anyone contemplating buying an old
> car should do so for the pleasure of driving and
> working on the car, not for any possible gain on
> their investment.  Historically, non-productive
> assets (gold, most artwork, cars, etc) have not been
> good investments over long periods of time,
> especially when compared to productive investments,
> such as equity or even debt.  Their short term returns
> are problematic too and even more speculative.
>

Stop it!  STOP STOP STOP!!!
We all ~know~ that, but some people are forced to use these arguments to
persuade "second-halfs" of the importance of buying that new toy, uh,
err, investment...

What they don't need to know is how much yearly and even daily
maintanance is required to ~keep~ these cars at an increasing value
(monetarily) and if the "second-halfs" were are of this, ~and~ of the
pleasure enjoyed by being in one of these cars, they'd never let their
"other-half" purchase it.  So, many rely on the arguement that it'll be
worth much more in the future...  Which translates to a bigger half when
the other half sues for half....  :)

Charley Buehner

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 13:52:25 -0800
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: What to do?

Rich Meyers wrote:

> Washington state I don't know if this will be possible.  Did Olds make an
> engine bigger than the 307 during '84-present.  I don't think I'll be

If you're in Eastern WA, give me a holler!  No, the 307 is the biggest
gasoline engine that Olds made during that time frame.

> able to put an older engine in my car due to emissions laws.  I want to

Emissions testing in WA state is every other year (even years for even year
cars, odd for odd), and it has to pass emissions before you can register it
in WA and before a title can be transferred.  Good news is that emissions
testing is closed hood.  They don't open the hood to look inside (they put
this microphone thing on the hood to tell the RPM's), and they don't check
underneath for the presence of a cat.  If you can meet the requirements, they
don't care how you did it, as it should be IMHO.

> have an Olds motor in my car but it seems like it might be easier to swap
> in a Chevy motor.  Or should I just rebuild my 307 and bore it out, put
> some good engine parts in and try to find the other stuff.  Heck, I can't
> even find headers that will fit.  I am proud of Olds but why can't

Building the 307 to H/O specs, and tricking it out some from there, you may
be able to eek out 250hp.  Not worth it really.  Heddman makes headers for
this car, they'll fit any olds Small block in a G-body.  I haven't used them
myself but I hear that the fit and quality of these headers leaves something
to be desired.

> One idea that crossed my mind is putting an Olds 350 in it and
> just not telling anyone.  Everything is esentially the same between the

You got it!  But don't stop there, find an Olds 403, it's also the same
block.  Don't get too radical with the camshaft when building it, and all the
computer components from the 307 should swap across and work just fine.--
Tom Lentz, tlentz@ior.com                          '84 Hurst/Olds
http://www.ior.com/~tlentz                         '78 Cutlass Supreme
Network Admin, CPM Corp, Spokane, WA.              '78 Chev 1/2ton (Olds 350)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 17:09:08 -0500
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: water pumps

Guys n' Dolls,

I was going through sum stuff in my cellar. Came across two water pumps.
One is for A/C(long snout on A-body cars), the other is for non A/C.
My question is the difference in impellers. One reminds me of a wind mill
or alternator fan, the other like half a brake rotor (flat plate with
fins). Any input will be
helpful. ........   which one draws more water....etc.


Tanks
The General

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 22:47:01 +0000
From: Tom Millard <oldspwr@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: 200-4R depression

Ray: Did you get the info I sent you on the 200-4R???

Here are some answers for you:

>->I took the computer out of my car, so I would need a separate switch to
>  lock up the torque converter.

If you keep the lock up converter, you can wire it up yourself.  It is very
simple.

>->Extra brackerty would need to be fabricated for the carb.

The only bracket that is different would be the were the throttle cable
connects as well as the TV cable.  All 307 Olds powered cars with Qjets had
this bracket.  I am sure you can find it at the junkyard for peanuts.

>->Cut and balance driveshaft. <- Is this necessary for 350-2004R swap?!!

No! No! No!  The 350 and 200-4R are the same length and use the came yoke.
All you have to do is relocated the crossmember further back.

>I would not want to have any trans. work done by anyone but him, but if I
>spend that much money, I won't even be able to afford a shifter for the

Ask him for a price on the rebuild itself.

Drop me a line if you need any more info...
Tom Millard OLDSPWR@worldnet.att.net
79 Cutlass - Street/Strip/Show
86 442 - Summer Driver
79 Cutlass - Winter Bomb

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 17:53:17 -0500
From: dgerow@student.stonehill.edu (Daniel R. Gerow)
Subject: Re: Scanners and Computer digital cameras

Scanners I can help you with.
The more bits the better.  24 or 30 bits are what you need.  Of course
the more bits, the more expensive the unit.  The new trend in scanners
is to have a "SCAN" button on the front with no software.  I prefer the
software  to the button driven machine.  I have a Relysis AVEC if has
and optical (actual) DPI of 2400 and a software interpolated DPI of
4800.  Again, the higher the DPI the better the resolution output.  Just
remember that there is a bit of a difference between optical and
interpolated.  However, for your purposes, it won't really be apparent.
Also, you want something that uses Cold-scan technology.  I am not sure
if there is a scanner out there that uses anything else now, but that is
the way to go.  Lastly, get a scanner that has a single pass, white
light.  There are triple and single pass scanners.  The triple pass use
3 different color lights and scans the image in three passes. The single
pass is much quicker w better results, no color separation and it is
less expensive to replace the bulb.  Hope this helps with the scanner
issue.  As for Digital Camera's I don't know....


Dan


- --
Daniel R. Gerow
WSHL-FM 91.3
General Manager
Stonehill College Radio
- -----------------------
http://www.stonehill.edu
http://www.stonehill.edu/wshl
http://www2.stonehill.edu/~dgerow
- ---------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 14:54:49 -0800 (PST)
From: "R. Coons" <rcoons@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Re[2]: What to do?

>      That would be my choice.  In my experience with smog testing in
>      California, the test facility workers don't check engine ID numbers
>      unless you point out that it is an engine swap or unless the engine is
>      obviously not original (455 in a VW, for example).

Apparently, checking out your engine is not part of a Washington
State emission inspection.  I've never had an inspector ask to look under
my hood, so you should be OK there.  There is a one time only inspection
when you first license your car in the state.  I don't remember whether
they looked under my hood or not, it has been quite a while.


Greg Coons
Federal Way, WA
72 Cutlass S
72 Cutlass Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 16:16:19 -0700
From: Dustin Cross <livnrt@mssl.uswest.net>
Subject: Re: BUSY WEEKEND

Lloyd W. Culp wrote:
>
> Dustin,
>
>  I'm happy to hear about you and the paint.  How's the upholstery?

Its still clean!!

> Bill Culp
> Decatur, Alabama
>
> I made sure I still had air in all 4 tires and
> >got back on my way quickly so I wouldnt follow the urge to chase down
> >the IDIOT         I'm just glad I didnt have to send the CS back in for
> >another paint job!!
> >
> >Dustin
> >

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 19:20:17 -0500
From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Subject: Re: Quad 4 Time slips

IRONMAN wrote:
>
> Has anyone raced their Quad 4 at teh track recently, my best time this
> year is a 15.23. A friend of mine has a 90 442, with 2.25 exhaust and
> flowmaster muffler, with a ram air kit made from a mailbox, using a
> K&N filter, ran a 14.88 ET. that was impressive i think. no other
> mods.

Not bad times. How much do these cars weigh, and most importantly what
are the trap speeds? I have had the opportunity to race a 91 442 several
times at the track and they are usually .3 to .5 off my times of 14.6x
in the Impala SS. I wonder if the Quad4's could be made as fast as the
modifed Diamond Stars (Eclipse, Laser, Talon). There are a few DSM's
running mid to low 11 sec et's with a 4 banger engine and around 23-30
lbs of boost depending on how the engine is built.

Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com) Akron, OH
Quality Engineer - TRW Automotive Group, Inc.
95 Impala SS80 Olds 442 W-30..for sale soon
85 S-10 Blazer 4x475 Hurst/Olds W-25..always for sale

>
> Curious
>                            Jeff Verkleeren
>   Scholar -- Gentleman -- Judge of Beautiful Women and Fine Whiskey
>                         Mechanical Engineering
>                         Penn State University
> mailto:jev114@psu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 17:46:38 -0500
From: Brian Richardson <brian.richardson@mci.com>
Subject: Re: water pumps

I believ the long snout A/C provides more water.

At 05:09 PM 10/29/97 -0500, Patton wrote:
>Guys n' Dolls,
>
>I was going through sum stuff in my cellar. Came across two water pumps.
>One is for A/C(long snout on A-body cars), the other is for non A/C.
>My question is the difference in impellers. One reminds me of a wind mill
>or alternator fan, the other like half a brake rotor (flat plate with
>fins). Any input will be
>helpful. ........   which one draws more water....etc.
>
>
>Tanks
>The General
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 19:22:00 EST
From: jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
Subject: FW: Ransom Eli Olds Tombstone ideas

Last call for any ideas for Ransom's Tombstone.....

I've gotten a few pretty good ones.

Jeff
 ----------
From: Zeilmann, Jeff
To: oldsmobile
Subject: Ransom Eli Olds Tombstone ideas
Date: Tuesday, October 28, 1997 1:55PM

Hey all,

I'm almost complete with my preparation for Halloween.  My brother and I
always set up my house (garage) to be a "haunted house" every year, and
we've almost completed the "cemetery" outside  It always turns out great.
 We have tombstones from every one you could think of.  From Dracula to
Elvis, we've got it covered (with top soil, of course, AR! AR!).   Of course
we have F*RD as one, with "Found On Road-side Dead" on it.  This year, I
have added R. E. Olds and am looking for ideas for an epitaph.  It looks
really cool with the old Oldsmobile symbol at the top (Olds Motor Works -
Lansing Mich.), his name, and his actual Born and Died dates.   Anyway, I am
looking for suggestions for it, either serious or humorous.  We try to add
new ones for all the celebrities that pass away each year, with some of the
comments on them being serious, and others with a hint of wit or humor.  You
can just imagine how much fun we have.  We basically have a Halloween party.
 We invite family, friends, and neighbors, and about half of the people
dress up as Ghouls and roam the yard...er...cemetery as something scary.  We
usually have a couple hundred kids come through.  It's a lot of work, but
the kids really love it, and so do the adults, so we keep doing it every
year.

Please send me your suggestions for Ransom Eli Olds' epitaph to me
personally, and I will post the final "winner" tomorrow along with the
runners up.

Happy Halloween,

Jeff "Boris"Zeilmann
  ^
/ | \
| | |
|/|\|
\ | /
  |
SMTP:jzeilman@stlouis.cp.lucent.com
'68 Cutlass Supreme
'69 Cutlass S Convertible
'69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 19:43:31 -0500 (EST)
From: Olds307Y@aol.com
Subject: Re: Re[2]: What to do?

Not really if your car is runnig up to spec it should pass emmision with no
problem as long as you keep the cat and air pump. Also the carb on 307s that
i have messed with is computer controled actualy  the  the mixture control
solinoid ( thats not spelled right it's been a rough day) is that's what
control how much fuel you get at any throthle postion even W.O.T. also the
distrutor is computer controled  the computer decides when to advance the
spark or retard it not vacum. So in other words it will still pass emeisons
for that year with the proper tune up before inspection and a high octane gas
and make sure you drive around to get it up to operating tmpature to pass
emissions. My car does and i have it modified as much as possible all done by
your truely the only thing i didn't do is the heads

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 00:53:54 +0000
From: clarence wirtz <cw63nova@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: trouble code scanner info

At 07:26 PM 10/29/97 +0000, you wrote:
>I'm looking for information on scanner for GM trouble codes and was
>wondering if you have any reccomendations for low cost unit?
>
>What ever happened to a six pack and a screwdriver to trouble shoot GM?
>
>I know you can "flash" the code on the check engine light - but I want
>something a little better than that.
>
>
All I use is the little code key I bought at the parts house and a code book.
I count the flashes and I have had good luck doing it this way.  It sure
makes a lot of difference with all the new gadgets on the car s now days it
gives you a place to start looking.  I am still learning this computer
controol stuff myself.  I am glad I bought the book and key.


Clarence
86 Cutlass 4dr 307 o/d

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 19:57:53 -0500
From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Subject: Re: Hurst Olds Questions

DROLDS350@aol.com wrote:
>
> Can somebody give me some information on a 1979 Hurst Olds? It's mint
> condition, dualgate, white with gold, says W-30 and has a 350. Can somebody
> give me some information on a car like this? What type of rear end would be
> in it? Are these cars valuable? Is it a rare car?

Well I have an 80 442 (http://www.442.com/labay.html) which is nearly
identical to the 79 H/O. The production was 2999 cars if memory serves
me right, compared to 886 of the 80 442. The car has 170 hp and I have
ran 15.7 sec 1/4 miles with it. Nice car to cruise in and always gets
the looks. The rear is a 2.73 and can be posi or not. Not sure about
prices. Double and Triple check the rear frame rails behind the wheels
for rust. That is a major problem area

Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com) Akron, OH
Quality Engineer - TRW Automotive Group, Inc.
95 Impala SS80 Olds 442 W-30...for sale soon
85 S-10 Blazer 4x475 Hurst/Olds W-25..always for sale

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 21:29:16 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: D88 Water Leaks

On Wed, 29 Oct 1997, Kevin Wong wrote:
> sealing is _not_ at the box-metal interface, but much farther down in the
> air intake, in front of where the recirculate door would be.  It is a
> plastic-plastic junction, at the bottom of the cavity leading to the
> blower squirrel cage, where windshield runoff would drain away.  Removing
> the HVAC box to replace the heater core would probably not disturb this
> section, but would facilitate access; this is not necessary if one applies
> the sealant by hand.

Are you saying that I can get at this by just removing the air intake
grill at the base of the windshield? That's what I tried last time and I
don't recall seeing a seam that I didn't seal. Is it visible?

Tonight I had more water. Since it was recent I was able to see a vertical
path under the dash on the heater box that led to a horizontal seam.
Interestingly, there was some visible sealer (or a gasket possibly) on the
seam to the right that was not near the leak, but the area of the seam
where the leak seems to be coming from has no sealer showing. Might I not
be able to seal this from inside the car? Access looked tight but it might
be do-able. I'd prefer to do it "right" from the other side but like I say
I don't recall seeing anything that looked like this seam. More insight
would be appreicated.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 22:24:08 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Dash lights repair

On Tue, 28 Oct 1997, Glenn Connors wrote:
>    Consistently the right side is lit and the left side is out. I'm becoming
> convinced that I either have a ground problem or possibly a power problem on
> that side of the printed circuit board. If this is true, it baffles me
> because a circuit board such as this type would be a single circuit instead
> of a split circuit on a single board.  But then again were not talking about
> '90's technology here. What is happening here is through the three guages
> the unlit portion is split in half between the middle guage.

Are you saying that in each of the 3 cans half is lit and half isn't? That
stumps me... so much for my theory of a printed circuit that got damaged.
As I recall each of these has it's own printed circuit on the back, so
it's almost impossible to think that all 3 got damamged the same way.

>    I think what I may need to do at this point is to remove the circuit
> board but I'm not sure how to disassemble the dash to do it.  Then again I
> might be able to resolve this without taking it all apart.  How difficult is
> it to remove the dash in a '69 4-4-2?

I think you can take each can out fairly easily. No need to dismantle the
dash, and it wouldn't do you much good anyway. Each can is held into place
with 2 screws which you can get at from under/behind the dash. The cans
then come out the front of the dash. At this point it's probably worth
trying. On a '68/'69 each of the 3 units is individual and relatively easy
to service.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 18:50:00 -0700
From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Subject: HEI Swaps?

Am running an HEI in my 98 and I make regular boneyard runs. A lot of the
75-86 cars are showing up just now and I was wondering if I can swap a 403
or 350 HEI unit in place of mine when/as/if it goes bad.

Can I swap a 403/350 HEI unit in place of 455 one?

If not what are the differences, is it just the height and cam gear? Was
thinking I could get the gear and the height would be mostly irrelevant,
provided it didn't contact the hood or other parts back there.

Anybody know the scoop? How much of the 403 stuff fits on the 455s? Do the
accessory brackets swap for example?

thanks in advance,
cf

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 18:57:48 -0700
From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Subject: Hard Hot Start Tip

Having read the fairly consistent hard hot start threads in the group over
the past year or so, I thought you all might benefit from my recent
experience.

My setup is a garden variety ported & polished 455 olds, HEI, duals and a
holley 3310 (750 cfm vacuum 2ndaries). It has had the dreaded "heat soak",
"hard hot start" for some years, I'm told due in part to the dual exhaust
radiating heat into the starter cable.

So I replace the 30 year old starter cable and wrapped it in extra heat
shielding. Not much difference, maybe a little.

Then I rechecked wiring diagram which calls for _ª2_ guage from the battery
to the horn relay/junction block. And ª2 from the junction block to the
starter motor. I had been running ª4 or ª6 guage from the battery. Now
replaced with extra-beefy ª2 cables on the + and - side of the battery, it
seems better.

Just a little free advice -- those ª6 are much more common in parts stores.
The person who had your car before you may have innocently replaced the
proper ª2 with ª4 or ª6 (ya know, all of them are pretty thick...), leaving
you stranded on hot summer days.

Compare your starter and battery cables to known ª2 and see if they measure up.

Hope this helps!
cf

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 19:06:46 -0700
From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Subject: What induction?

Ok, so now Ca., in its wisdom has decided I'm not evil and they've exempted
my 66 convertible from smog checks every two years. Cool.

I like my Holley because it's dialed in, gets crappy mileage, I understand
it and the power it yields. It's right now sitting on an adaptor to the
factory manifold which I'm pretty sure is costing in mileage, power, or
both. Not to mention the fact that it looks kind of goofy.

Which aftermarket aluminum manifolds would provide a good home for the
holley, clear the HEI and provide good power from idle to 5000 RPM?

This is a street car with an RV cam (should I change that too? heh, heh,
heh). It has 2.73 or so rear gears and a TH-400 with the old switch pitch
converter.
I wouldn't mind waking it up a bit, but I don't want it louder.

Also have any of you priced the Holley 900 cfm digital FI system? Looks
like it might be a good, if pricey solution. What experiences do any of
you/your friends report with this system?

Also I'm thinking the Holley electric hipressure fuel pump would probably
be kind of loud. Would it be possible to _safely_ fabricate a fuel pump for
the FI system they lives in the gas tank like the new cars and still have
the fuel guage work? I'm guessing it might be possible to retain the
sending unit and combine it with the  pump from a modern FI vehicle. Dumb?

Looking forward to your thoughts and experiences.
cf

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 19:15:41 -0700
From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Subject: No Comment on cool brake tricks?

Hey!

Didn't anybody care that I mounted the see through reservoir from a Fiero
on the 79 Toro master cylinder in my 98? Can't beat a modern brake system
on a big old car.

I thought this a cool fix that would work well for A,B and C bodies with
vertical (as opposed to canted) firewalls. This would include, oh, 65-70
big cars and the Cutlaii.

The problem in mounting those see through reservoirs on old cars is that
they're molded to have the master cylinder pointing upwards, not flat. The
years these were (and are) used all have firewalls which are slanted
backward (towards the driver) which causes the master to point slightly
upwards. So when you mount 'em on the older cars with vertical firewalls,
you can only fill 'em half full or they spill over the front.

Anyway a Fiero reservoir on a 79-82 Toro or Custom cruiser master cylinder
solves this.

I'd have thought you'd all want to know how to see how much brake fluid you
have in your reservoir. Or maybe it's just me being a car nerd.

If you want details, drop me a line.

cf

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 19:18:50 -0700
From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Subject: Firewall Insulation

Ya know that fibrous firewall insulation on the passenger side of the
firewall in the mid-60's Oldses? It's thick black cardboardy stuff on the
outside, insulation-turning-to-dust when pierced or broken.

What, if anything, have you all replaced it with?

Mine is forever crapping little bits of dust all over the carpet and I'd
love to just rip it out, if I could figure out what I should replace it
with.

Any thoughts and supplier phone numbers would be more than welcome

thanks
cf

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 23:37:57 -0800
From: Greg Pruett <grpruett@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: HEI Swaps?

Christian Fair wrote:
>
> Am running an HEI in my 98 and I make regular boneyard runs. A lot of the
> 75-86 cars are showing up just now and I was wondering if I can swap a 403
> or 350 HEI unit in place of mine when/as/if it goes bad.
>
> Can I swap a 403/350 HEI unit in place of 455 one?

Yup, the small block can interchange distributors with a big block, no
problem.  In fact, I once checked the number on my old points
distributor in my 350 (back before I had HEI) and it was originally for
a 455.  Evidently it had been replaced before.

> Anybody know the scoop? How much of the 403 stuff fits on the 455s? Do the
> accessory brackets swap for example.

Dunno.  Can't help ya there.


Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cultass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 19:22:01 -0700
From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Subject: HEI Further Thoughts

So o.k, if the 403 HEI fits a 455 and the 79 and later were computer
controlled to retard the timing on knock as observed by a piezo electric
microphone on the intake manifold (valley tray?), would it be possible to
retrofit on a 455?

Or is this just a dumb idea? I mean I really like advanced timing for
speed, but I hate the knock.

Or I could just turn back the timing, or replace the springs in the distrib.

thoughts?
cf

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 22:14:33 -0500
From: jeff antonucci <antonj@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Quad 4 Trannies

Jeff,

I have read that there were two different 5spd trannies.  With the
Muncie built Getrag design bieng the one to get.  Can anyone else
confirm this?

Jeff Antonucci '91 Quad 442 W-41

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 19:26:27 -0700
From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Subject: Which Tranny Swaps?

Saw lots of to-ing and fro-ing over the 200-R4 and the 700-R4. My
impression is that one or both could be retrofit in place of a TH-400, with
the advantage of lowering the final drive ratio through the 4th gear
(overdrive)

Which one of these is the direct swap. I seem to recall different internals
but a TH-400 housing for one or the other.

Understanding I might need to modify the drive shaft length somewhat to
make it work.

My tranny's just beginning to act up, so I'll need to make a decision at
some point, just collecting info so I know what my choices are when the
time comes.

I don't suppose the world needs a 4 speed 98....

TIA
cf

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 20:30:44 -0700 (MST)
From: Ray <rayc@U.Arizona.EDU>
Subject: 403 tri-power?

What?  Who?  How?  Tri-power 403?

Ray in the desert
87 409 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 23:04:38 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: 403 tri-power?

Ray wrote:
>
> What?  Who?  How?  Tri-power 403?
>
> Ray in the desert
> 87 409 Cutlass

Another vicious rumor going around that I probably started
accidentially.  Sorry.

Don Sowers

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 15:41:06 -0600
From: Mike Taylor <MTaylor@msi-us.com>
Subject: RE: W-41/SCX Clutch Disk

Jeff,

I look forward to the discussion on the W-41 and SCX cars.  I saw a nice
looking SCX cross the intersetion in front of me last week.  Don't see
to many of them though....  My springs and shocks are STIFF!!!!!!  Not a
fun ride on the road unless it is smooth as glass.

Saw  an electronic add last week listing a SCX for sale.

Mike Taylor

>----------
>From: jeff antonucci[SMTP:antonj@erols.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 1997 9:24 PM
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: Re: W-41/SCX Clutch Disk
>
>Mike,
>
>I don't have the part ª for the clutch, sorry.  The FWD discussions on
>the list aren't too often, but without the list I would never have found
>the 6 or so Quad 4 & W-41 owners out there.  I have been trying to get a
>hold of Mantapart this week without any luck too.
>
>I'm trying to find some descent shocks and struts, but I think the
>Koni's would be too stiff.
>
>Jeff.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 16:04:25 -0800
From: Bill Gochenour <3STICKS@stjohns.edu>
Subject: The "OFFICIAL" 100th. Centennial Video

OLDSMOBILE together with ALPHA-ONE will be offering The ONLY, "OFFICIAL"
100th Centennial Video available this December (great gift idea if my
girlfriend is listening......<hint-hint>). It will be offered as a two
(2) tape set, selling for $20.00. The first tape is titled "Nearly
Perfect History" and runs approx. 56 minuites, and the second is "The
100th Centenial Celebration" and runs approx. 60 minuites. They will
also be available seperate for $12.00 and $15.00 each. Shortly, they
will be mailing order forms to Centennial registraints, so respond
early. If you did not attend the 100th, contact ALPHA-ONE directly for
an order form at (800)338-2955 or write:
ALPHA-ONE
127 Industrial Avenue
Coldwater, MI. 49036

- --

Bill !

                                              _           _       ___
1986 442 "The Perfect 10"                   /  |        /  |    /  _  \
1983 Hurst/Olds 15th Anniversary Edition  /    |      /    |   |_|   | |
     Oldsmobile 100th Centennial ª 2218 /    | |_   /  / | |_      /  /
1993 Chevrolet Lumina Z-34             |_____   _| |_____   _|   /  /__
1997 Chevrolet Monte Carlo Z-34              |_|         |_|   |_______|

* * * * * * * * *
* COMMING  SOON *---------> www.3STICKS.com
* * * * * * * * *

http://area51.stjohns.edu/~toychest     (updated 10/10/97)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 16:53:20 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Votes

Yowee!,
I was away for a couple of days and found that I have blown right by
the "Rustang".
Thanks to all of you for the great support. Oldses have sure been
getting the exposure they deserve lately.

Mick Gillespie, Columbus, Indiana
69 Cutlass S convertible
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm
- -----Original Message-----
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, October 29, 1997 3:37 PM
Subject: Scanners and Computer digital cameras


>This is kinda Olds related in that I want to be able to put shots of
my
>cars in the computer.  I have no idea what to look for when shopping
for
>a scanner and/or camera.  Any suggestions/experiences/constructive
>comments would be appreciated.  I mainly want to scan pictures and
text
>for the net and for usage in my daughters' future college classes.
It
>would be nice if I could use it to scan documents related to my
>accounting practice also.  I don't know how relevant it is, but I am
>using an IBM 166mhz, 16M RAM, 28K modem utilizing Windows 95.  I've
been
>"window shopping" (no pun intended) scanners, but have no idea what
>brands/models are junk and which aren't.  Some had 24 bit, some 30
bit.
>I do think it would be a good idea to get a legal sized scanner as
>opposed to a letter sized one for flexiblity.  Thank you for any
>assistance.  If you prefer, you can email me privately.
>
>Don Sowers

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 22:42:20 -0700 (MST)
From: bhorn@tnc.com (Beverley Horn)
Subject: Holley Carb.

I have the chance of purchasing a 25yr.old Holley 650 Double Pumper Carb.
(4bbl). The guy wants $30 for it but it needs a Carb rebulid kit. Should I
buy it and do the rebulid? Would it give me good performance on a Rocket
350? Is this Carb worth buying? Would it fit the Rocket 350?

Thanks,
Shayne Horn
 1970 Rallye 350 (restoring)
1985 442

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 00:51:36 -0500 (EST)
From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu>
Subject: Re: Holley Carb.

Yeah, buy it, that's a good price, and Holley's an easy rebuild.  Works
great on a rocket motor, but you'll need to buy an adapter kit...
available nearly anywhere for like 15 bucks.

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu

On Wed, 29 Oct 1997, Beverley Horn wrote:

> I have the chance of purchasing a 25yr.old Holley 650 Double Pumper Carb.
> (4bbl). The guy wants $30 for it but it needs a Carb rebulid kit. Should I
> buy it and do the rebulid? Would it give me good performance on a Rocket
> 350? Is this Carb worth buying? Would it fit the Rocket 350?
>
> Thanks,
> Shayne Horn
>  1970 Rallye 350 (restoring)
> 1985 442
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 02:13:20 -0800
From: Greg Pruett <grpruett@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: What induction?

Christian Fair wrote:
>
> Ok, so now Ca., in its wisdom has decided I'm not evil and they've exempted
> my 66 convertible from smog checks every two years. Cool.
>
> Also have any of you priced the Holley 900 cfm digital FI system? Looks
> like it might be a good, if pricey solution. What experiences do any of
> you/your friends report with this system?

> Also I'm thinking the Holley electric hipressure fuel pump would probably
> be kind of loud. Would it be possible to _safely_ fabricate a fuel pump for
> the FI system they lives in the gas tank like the new cars and still have
> the fuel guage work? I'm guessing it might be possible to retain the
> sending unit and combine it with the  pump from a modern FI vehicle. Dumb?

It might be easier just to obtain or fabricate a tiny second tank, say a
gallon or two capacity, and mount your high pressure pump in it.  Run
the return line right back to the little tank.  Then you could have a
low pressure fuel pump or even the conventional fuel pump on the engine
pump gas from the regular gas tank to the little tank. That's what I
plan to do when I put fuel injection on the Vista Cruiser.  I'm just not
sure where to mount the tank yet.  Obviously it should go somewhere in
the back and toward the center of the car.  That way i won't have to try
and modify the stock gas tank any and it'll be easy to switch back to
stock configuration if I ever decided to go back.

The little auxilliary tank also solves another problem:  You neeed a
baffled fuel tank with fuel injection.  The problem is that when you hit
the brakes with anything less than say 1/4 tank of gas, the gas tends to
slosh back and forth.  Since the fuel pump for an EFI system is moving
so much gas so fast to keep the pressure high, it can start sucking air
as the gas sloshes away from the fuel pickup.  That will stall the
engine due to loss of pressure, and it will greatly shorten the life of
the fuel pump since they will burn up very quickly when run dry.  Cars
that come stock with EFI have baffles in the tank around the fuel pickup
to it from being starved of gas.  I doubt your 66 has any baffles in it
since a carb fuel system doesn't really need them.  If you use EFI, you
could just keep more than 1/4 tank of gas at all times, but that could
be a pain since your range on a tank of gas will be cut 25%.  Putting
baffles in your gas tank is likely out of the question since it would
probably require cutting and welding, and there aren't many people who
will weld a gas tank.  The auxilliary tank should take care of the
sloshing problem since it would stay full from being constantly topped
off with the low pressure fuel pump.

> So o.k, if the 403 HEI fits a 455 and the 79 and later were computer
> controlled to retard the timing on knock as observed by a piezo electric
> microphone on the intake manifold (valley tray?), would it be possible to
> retrofit on a 455?

I'm not sure.  I've heard before that the little microphones are "tuned"
(for lack of a better term) to a specific engine design since different
designs act different acoustically.  (For instance, what would sound
like detonation in an olds engine might just be normal lifter clatter in
a ch*vy. :)  I don't know if the differnece between the overall size and
displacement of the engines would make a difference in how they sound or
not. Theres' also the issue of hooking up the spark controller.  I think
it needs more input than just the knock sensor.  It probably takes into
account air temperature, coolant temperature, manifold vacuum, etc.  At
any rate you would need the ECM from a spark controlled car, the
neccesary sensors, and the spark controlled ignition module at the
least.

> Saw lots of to-ing and fro-ing over the 200-R4 and the 700-R4. My
> impression is that one or both could be retrofit in place of a TH-400, with
> the advantage of lowering the final drive ratio through the 4th gear
> (overdrive)

The 200-4R is probably the easiest swap, it will bolt up to a 455.  But
without serious beefing it'll get it's innards pureed by that 455 in no
time at all.  When built correctly, however, it is said to withstand up
to 600 lb of torque.  You will need a longer driveshaft for the 200-4R,
it's about the same legnth as a TH-350, and a few inches shorter than
your TH-400.  You might find what you need if you dig throug a pile of
them at a local yard.  When I put the 200-4R in the V-C I ended up using
a Ch*vyVan driveshaft and had it shortened.  The're good candidates for
such a swap because they're very long(lots to work with) and very
beefy.  I'd guess a truck driveshaft would work too.

The 700-4R will hold up about as well as a 200-4R when beefed up, and
it's no match for the 455 in stock form either.  It has a ch*vy only
boltpattern, so you'd need an adaptor plate.  The driveshaft may need
modifying.

> Which one of these is the direct swap. I seem to recall different internals
> but a TH-400 housing for one or the other.

You might be thinking of the 4L80E.  It's basically a Th-400 overdrive
that's computer controlled.  I've read in Hot Rod about people running
them in old cars by adapting the computer used with diesel engines.
Very pricey setup, but I think it can be ordered as a kit now from one
of thoes tranny dealer like Art Carr or B&M.

Sorry this message got kinda long.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 97 1:10:27 EST
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: 455 crank

At 11:48 AM 10/29/97 -0500, you wrote:
>No Glenn it wasn't a typo. Hate to do it but if it gives as much of a
>performance gain as I have heard then I think I can live with having a few
>Chevrolet parts here and there.
>
>
>
>> At 05:20 PM 10/27/97 -0500, you wrote:
>> >Has anyone ever heard of grinding a 455 crank down and using big block
>> >Chevrolet rods? From what I hear you can get a little over 500 cid from
>> >doing this. Also does anyone know the limit on boring a 455? I think I
>> >found a couple more ways to put me into 800hp naturally just wanting to
>> >run them by you guys and get your input.
>> >
>

   Ben, I was talking about the 800 HP. Geez, clue me in here.


  Glenn
  '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 23:34:17 -0800
From: Erik Badzinski <erikreb@netbridge.net>
Subject: Cutlass Seats

Hello again,

In my '72 Cutlass, for my front seat I have the long, one piece bench
seat.

What I would like to know is if their is any way I could take that out
and in place put two bucket seats in?  And what else would I have to
change to put those in?  Would I have to put in a console or anything
like that? And do they make kits which help you swamp in different kinds
of seats?

Thanks for letting me have my 30 secs of fame,

Erik B.
Oregon,
73 Cutlass 350

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 02:41:34 -0500 (EST)
From: "Peg O'Connor" <peg@grove.ufl.edu>
Subject: Stinky Upholstery--yuk

Hi guys --

Well, I've gotten myself into a mess and am hoping someone can offer
advice.  Last weekend I went to Osprey, Florida, for a show, and managed
to park in a place infested with ants, who found their way into my car.
I blasted the interior with bug spray, which took care of the ants, but
now my poor car smells like Raid!  The humidity down here makes it even
worse, and I'm making excuses to people to avoid having them ride in my
car.  Baking soda and the usual airing-out aren't cutting it -- this is
baaaaad.  Anyone have any tricks I can use?  TIA

8)
peg (holding her nose in Florida)
'78 Cutlass Calais
'86 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 02:53:32 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: Stinky Upholstery--yuk

Peg O'Connor wrote:
>
> Hi guys --
>
> Well, I've gotten myself into a mess and am hoping someone can offer
> advice.  Last weekend I went to Osprey, Florida, for a show, and managed
> to park in a place infested with ants, who found their way into my car.
> I blasted the interior with bug spray, which took care of the ants, but
> now my poor car smells like Raid!  The humidity down here makes it even
> worse, and I'm making excuses to people to avoid having them ride in my
> car.  Baking soda and the usual airing-out aren't cutting it -- this is
> baaaaad.  Anyone have any tricks I can use?  TIA

The best thing I could think of would be to have the interior
steam-cleaned (either professional or a rental will do), and then lace
the pump-spray air freshener to it.  If you've got excess amounts of
time/money, have the interior ScotchGuarded after the steam-clean, and
~then~ go wild with the pump spray.

I had to remove a coffee stain out of the front seat of my Delta 88, and
I used genuine GM Fabric/Upholstery Cleaner.  I followed the
instructions, and poured a capful of cleaner (approx. 1 tblsp.) and
srcubbed at it.  It took the ten year old stain out fairly well, but the
smell left over was awful...it stank for two weeks.  I later had the
interior steam-cleaned, laced with air fresherner, and it worked great!

BTW, the steam-cleaning was professional....I'd rather dip to the hip
than play Molly Maid!

S. Dave Ward

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª928
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