
oldsmobile-digest      Monday, November 17 1997      Volume 01 : Number 958



Back from the E-grave...
Cool Olds 4Sale
1000000+ Hits on my Olds page!!!!
Re: Used Cars
Re: Greetings
cars f/s mid MI area
Re: 55' Packin' 455
45 v. 39' cam
f'glass body parts
msd ign
hi temp @65
68 442 motor
car security/ chases
heads D3
removing T'stat
Re: Book or service manual?
307 TBI
Re:detriot locker style rear carriers
55 Parts car
Wounded Delta
Re: Washer Bottle
UNBOUNCE: Wounded Delta
Re: timing problems
Re: Used Cars
Re: UNBOUNCE: Wounded Delta
Re: Retro fitting OEM A/C
NON Olds Info needed...
Xmas Gifts Wanted (fwd)
Car Craft Top Ten Oldses.
Racking my brain
Air Cleaner options
1957 OLDS
driveshaft drops
early/late flexplates
Re: the Quad 442
Edelbrock head problem
70cutlass thermostat?
Re: Cooling topics
Re: Carb question
UNBOUNCE: 1957 Olds Custom FS
fan clutch
rear diff/diff
59 Olds
q4psu
Re: Retro fitting OEM A/C
Re: Cooling topics
PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale 

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 03:33:30 +0000
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Back from the E-grave...

Well all, it's been a busy week, to say the best.  Bits and bytes of
news to report, some Olds, some non.  I'd posted last week that my
buddy's van got stolen from our store here.  They found it Thursday in
Clear Lake, Iowa!  Thieves started out in Bismark ND, and came west a
couple hundred miles, stole Jeremy's van (along the way, I'm sure they
had other plans...:), were sighted near Billings MT (another 200 miles
or so west) where another vehicle was reported stolen (no known
connection, but worth mention), and then double back east 1000 miles or
so!  Anyway, they left yesterday AM to go get it.  Gonna be a helluva
drive, especially with the storms going on over there.  Anyone in the
area, out of curiosity?  Congrats to the others who found their vehicles
close to home.  

My computer crashed ~hard~ over the week.  (That's why you haven't seen
much of me lately)  Bad virus, as far as I can tell.  Just got it
resurrected tonight.  Still got bugs, but the system I've built is at
least without virus.  I reformated a second hard drive and left mine
alone, spent the last, err, say about eight hours making windows 95 work
on it!  Argh...  Finally got that one going.  Logged on with 3.11
earlier today.  Had to use the modem from my computer, cuz that one's
got zapped by lightning over the summer.  Spent nearly an hour
downloading the 371 messages that built up (musta been a slow week...
fortunately!)  Gave up on 3.11 making my modem work, so I formated the
hard drive and stuck it in my pc.  Screw it, just 130 meg, anyway. 
After this, I'll download the latest antivirus I can find, and stick in
on the server here.  Then I'll scan the LAN, and ~then~ hook my hard
drive up, and (hopefully!) scan it, and ***hopefully*** save it.  Lots
of uncorrupted info, but lots of new garbage, too.  Filenames changed
from alphanumerics to dos graphics (honest!) similar to the written name
of the "artist formerly known as Prince...", along with file sizes
ranging between 10 and 50 ~thousand~ meg!!!  I think it's a virus.  Just
a hunch.  My fingers are still crossed, but at least I'm typing at ~my~
keyboard, on ~my~ monitor, with Win 95 again.  Was beginning to miss
that!

On to the Olds content.  I did the nasty.  I cleaned my '83, finished
hooking up all my signal processors in the trunk (don't worry, Dustin,
this one has a different ending, it still runs and drives like
before...) ~and~ filled up the tank.  (let me warn ya, that's not a good
idea.  Murphey's law, let me tell you!)  So I'm leaving the bank after
depositing the witness fee I'd finally gotten from a trial that ~didn't~
happen three months earlier (from the drunk that rear-ended the ~real~
rocket) A Highway Patrol pulls out behind me.  Don't think much of it,
until he starts following me.  (Side note, some people on the list know
the story that's about to unfold already, but others don't, so I'll keep
the details high...)  I'm worried that he's back there, 'cuz I already
know what he's about to find out when he runs the plates that he's
looking at.  (Which of course was later confirmed by local
"scanner-listeners."  Apparantly the conversation went like this
"...those plates come back to a 1981 Olds Cutlass, green and turquois in
color..."
"Hmmm, ~I~ don't see any green on that car, do ~you~???"
"Nope, I don't see any either.  Sure doesn't look like it's been
painted..."  
So they pull me over, and after obviously not buying into the "been
painted" story I explain that I haven't been able to clear a title for
the car, so I swapped plates cuz it's the best thing I had to drive
(which, for those who don't know, is kinda illegal.  Oops.  I knew... 
Beats ~not~ driving it, though.  All four tires hold air!)  He asks me
what's gonna happen if he runs the VIN # and it turns up stolen.  I
kinda slipped. "It didn't last time..."  He gave me a funny look on
~that~ one!  "You've had it run before?"  "Yeah, we ran 'em in Havre, to
find out more about the previous owner."  (Quick thinking on ~my~ part,
even though the ~last~ time I got pulled over for that, the car had a
different VIN #.  Don't ask...)  Meanwhile, the ~other~ HP is wanderring
around the car, looking in door jambs, etc to verify original paint, and
try to verify the VIN info.  Whips out his leatherman and pulls the
plates off it.  About then (being my lunch hour) most of the town
happens to drive by (why's Chuck driving without plates?  No wonder he's
getting busted!)  Then proceeds to measure the tint.  The registration
shows a tint waiver, but, alas, it's for a different car.  Hmph.  He
asks me about insurance, if I have any for ~that~ car (he'd seen me flip
through like six or eight insurance cards while looking for the right
one)  I hesitated a bit.  Told him "technically?  No.  BUT,
~technically~, YES."  This threw him way off.  Told me to explain ~that~
one, and to be honest about it (Why do they bother saying that?:)  So I
told him the car that it's ~trying~ to be is legally protected, but
since the VIN's wrong, it's technically not coverred by that policy.  He
readily agreed.  BUT, I continued, my coverage includes an "unowned
vehicle" clause, coverring me in any vehicle that I do not own, (which
is true, but it can't be a family member's or roommate's vehicle) 
"Technically, ~legally~ I do not own this vehicle, since the title was
never signed."  I cannot go into my insurance office and put a policy on
the car I do not own.  I can't license it, and I can't insure it. 
Because it's an unowned vehicle.  Sounds good to me...  Didn't to him. 
He said that's BS even with State Farm, and (quoting again) "that only
works when your driving, uh like ~my~ car"  (I ~soooo~ badly wanted to
ask if I could borrow his car, then!  Didn't figure it'd be a good
idea.)  Anyway, he wrote me up with displaying plates issued to another
vehicle (seen that one before, $45 fine.  Nothing too crippling) but the
no insurance he wrote me up on will hurt, if I can't get out of that
one.  About this time the other HP gets back with his window tint
results.  14% on front and 7% in back (I was impressed...)  He gave me a
fix-it ticket for those.  Said I was going to have to pull it off, it
was too dark to be legal.  I asked him why, since I couldn't drive the
damn thing anyway!  He agreed that was a good point, but gave me the
warning anyway.  He let me drive the car back to the store, but strongly
recommended getting a trailer to get it back home (he really was good
about it, I've actually heard many good things about the guy.  Fixed his
radio today, but couldn't bribe him out of any tickets...)  My trailer's
120 miles away, so the car's sitting behind me in the shop here.  It's
safe in here, anyway...  Toro's still all legal, 'cept for one flat
tire...  Need to get a ride home one night, so I don't end up leaving
the service van ~there~.  Not too excited yet about that.  

Dustin : Those jokes were great.  The frog was awesome!  Congrats on
Shilo's Cutlass, have you tried it again with her old computer back in
there?  I thought you'd seen the high beam indicator in my Delta.  Told
you it was cool!!!  I think that dash panel is out on the hill still, by
the rest of the stash if ya need a spare?  Did that car used to run
around Havre?  It sounds frighteningly familiar, but I can't think of
the kid's name.  Smoked Jeff Healy last (???) year, so Powell had to
show him what a station wagon could do.  Hurt him bad.  I ran somebody
out there with the Rockit that day, too.  Can't remember how many runs
we did (we know who finished first, though...)  Does that have the
"rim-blow horn system?"  How bout that tricked out push button ashtray
that Chris got so excited over?

Better go find a cure for my computer's new found disease...  Musta
picked something up from all those smut sights our salesmen went hunting
through... ;)  Poor PC's spent more time on the net then we do at work! 
Aw well, gotta get the $$$ worth from the ISP, right?

Charley Buehner (aka THE Oldsmobile Magnet -- I ~LOVE~ that!!!  THANKS
Karl!  :)
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 08:39:30 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Cool Olds 4Sale

Usual disclaimer:

Olds '51 Ninety-Eight 4dr. 67K miles, $3500 (419) 626-0254

In Toledo, OH area.

- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 08:46:04 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: 1000000+ Hits on my Olds page!!!!

This can't be right. Friday, I had just broke 1000, now 1000000??!! Go
check it out for yourself! It's either an error, somebody hit the reload
way too many times, or somebody really likes my car!!!!
- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 09:08:49 -0500 (EST)
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: Re: Used Cars

  hay TL is the movie used cars on video i love movue with old cars..
  have you seen tin men  lots of old 50's 60's cads  great movie..

   thanks olds guy atl,ga.....

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 09:55:38 -0500 (EST)
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Greetings

no, im selling not buying,  thanks anyway.  steven.   w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 10:14:42 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: cars f/s mid MI area

from the paper today, in case y'all have $ and need that perfect xmas gift:

69 Cutlass S, Rocket 350, new interior, looks good,  drives good. Appraised
$4500, sell $$3995. 517-351-7964

Olds convertible 1972, new top, body exc., runs great, 350-4V, $7500.
ph. 784-2544

Oldsmobile 1954 Rocket 88, V8 AT, $5899. Capitol Cadillac [a dealer], 393-5600

Olds Toronado, '73 from AZ, no rust ever, all original, 76K mi., $4250.
Ph. 784-2544

- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 07:25:19 -0800
From: Gary Andresen <gandresen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: 55' Packin' 455

Being a 4-door, you could really make a "sleeper" out of your '55.

Quick history - When I was a sophmore in college (1964) bought a white
and black
55 Super 88 2-door Holiday (Hardtop) from a classmate. It was packin' a
'58- J-2
with a B&M hydro and was extremely fast.  Always regretted selling it.

Three years ago - I came upon an oxidized white '55 88 2-door hardtop
with a basketball
size dent in the right-rear quarter panel.  Bought if for $1,000 and it
had all parts on it.
Was going to do a plain restoration on it, but my brother-in-law came
upon a newly
built engine/trans combination I just couldn't refuse.  For $1,600 I
obtained a
69 455 out of a Tornoado that had been balanced and blueprinted.  It has
a mild cam
along with an Offenhauser intake sporting dual Carter AFB "Quads" and
MSD ignition.
A freshly redone TH400 was also included.  This combo had been installed
in a '41 Chevy
that was do be a street rod.  The guy got into trouble with the law and
ended up in jail,
so his attorney took the car as partial payment of his legal fees.  The
brakes hadn't been
done yet, so the engine was never really on the street.  The guy who
bought the car wanted
to put a small-block Chevy in it, so I bought it from him. 

The 455 engine and transmission will be several hundred pound lighter
than that of
the '55, so expect the front end tu rise 2-3 inches.  The two main
problems you have
to face are the motor mounts and the steering box clearance.

The 455 was normally installed with mounts on both sides of the engine
and a single
mount off the transmission.  On the Toro, however, they used a weired
mount on the
front which is quite massive and makes the one from the '55 look real
puny.  I came
across a guy who put a 455 in a '56 using side mounts and it looked very
difficult.
He owns a body shop, so had all needed to accomplish it, but looked too
hard for me.
His shop foreman tried talking me into doing a front clip, but didn't
want to spend
that kind of money and then have to deal with getting all the sheet
metal back on it.
I probably have some spare pictures around here of the front mount plate
.  It is
very big, needed for the torque, and used rubber grommets from a Volvo
mount.

No matter what you do, the clearance between the exhaust manifold and
steering box
will be an issue. (Unless you do the front clip)  I decided to replace
the power
steering with a manual box.  Steers fine.  Will be even better when I
get the radial
tires on it.  I discovered later that more recent GM power steering
boxes will swap
straight across and are almost identical in size to the manual one I am
using.  (May
do that some day, but right now it is a low priority.)

Those are really the main things you will have to deal with.  I had a
local guy
fabricate the front plate, but don't know if he would still have the
template or not.
Can check if you like.

The car is now white and turquoise, with all chrome and stainless
redone.  New
three-tone grey interior, etc.  I have driven it around town some, but
still have
to put a few things back on it before it is complete. It really goes and
sounds great
with it's dual Flowmasters.  Have a feeling the rear-end may not be
strong enough for
it, but since I am not going to drag it should be allright.

I will send pictures to Bryceman in a few weeks.

Hope this helps.

I will be out of town next week, so if you have any more questions,
won't be able to
respond until next weekend.

Good luck with the project.

Gary Andresen
=========================================================================
Boaz32@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Please, Please tell me about you car and motor combo!  I just purchased a
> 1955 Olds 4dr and a 1970 455 that I intend on putting in the 55'.  Can you
> give me advise...actually I am a Chapalin for the University of New Mexico
> Hospital and am doing this as a project with kids at risk of gangs and suck.
>  They/we will build this to make it a Street/Strip (mainly street) car.
> 
> Any info you can provide would be of great help.
> 
> Rev. Mark Duffey

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 10:43:19 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: 45 v. 39' cam

Our various conversations about a cam designed for 39 degree cam-bank-angle in
an engine with a 45-degree cam-bank-angle would result in valves opening 3
degrees early or three degrees late, the early valves in one cylinder head and
the late ones in the other. [ At least I stated this much without anyone
offering any sort of objection.
====================

I'd have to say the diff would be 6 degrees, not three. 45-39=6, eh? That's
presumably 45 or 39 degrees each bank, from either the vetical cylinder bank
disector or the horizontal, I forget which right now. Anyhow, it'd be per bank
because the cylinder banks are 90' apart, and the lifters are parallel give or
take a little. So, you need 45 [or 39] on each side.

- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 10:45:26 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: f'glass body parts

Well, my son did it again and I am back in the body repair business..I
should really stop him from driving "my" toy.. he is a good kid but a bit
accident prone.. ie 4 front ends... Anyway, does anyone have any
experience with Dick Miller Racing fiberglass body panels?  His catalog
list both "heavy duty" and Light weight" fiberglass parts priced in the
$400 - $300 range for my application... Is this a good price?  Thanks
for your help   Al Varhus
===================

I would suggest you contact his supplier directly- Body Parts USA I think... if
not on the www.442.com site or in the FAQ, I have a catalog from them here
somewhere. Or do a switchboard search.

A while back I listed their phone #, etc. and a partial listing of Olds stuff.

- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 10:48:41 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: msd ign

I have the MSD6AL in my 442.  Read the last page of the instructions, I
think I remember this in the trouble shooting section.  My instructions
are back at home.  I had to replace the magnetic pickup thing on the
distributer - pain since you have to take the dist out then completely
apart.  I ended up buying the adjustable timing computer and Blaster
coil also.  This setup really requires a Comp 9000 dist or one of MSD's
dist.
=========================
I used the MSD 6AL in that race car, used the HEI dist'r w/ its stock coil.
used just the coil sensor in the dist'r to trigger the MSD. Easy as can be to
hook up. Worked great, that rev limiter saved more than one motor already. I do
not think that a $300 distributor is at all necessary unless your income
depends on winning each race. For us masses, regular cheap HEI's will do just
fine. Spend your $ wisely... go faster for same $.

- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 11:16:31 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: hi temp @65

I have never experienced an overheat
problem while constantly moving on the interstate...
====================
While fixing cars last summer, we had 2-3 cases where the car would overheat
ONLY when cruising 65-70. Fine at idle. Both cases the cure was as simple as
cleaning the radiator off- accumulated bugs & dirt were impeding airflow & heat
transfer. A LOT of crud came off them radiators, too! Chemical, soak, blast
thru from rear and front, more chemical, more rinsing until no more gunk comes
off.

- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 11:19:34 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: 68 442 motor

1968 442 Engine - Big valve C heads
                 - 398662 Intake
                 - 7028251 Carb
                 - G block with F2 stamping
  $375.00       Robert Schinkel
================

Cool, not a bad price. Good start for a 400 'correct' motor.

If it were me, I would not refer to the "F2" thing as a "stamping" however...
that item is CAST in, a raised part integral to the block. In the interest of
accuracy in reporting, I would call "stampings" only that sort of thing such as
the VIN ID where a stamp is used to hammer an indentation into the metal. But
that's just me.

- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 11:30:21 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: car security/ chases

Anybody see the most recent episode of World's Scariest Police Chases on
...
over curbs and took a couple of minor jumps.  It had to have had a V8 in it
because this guy was moving pretty good.  When he eventually lost control
and got caught, the narrator told us that this is what can happen when a
young kid gets behind the wheel of a fast car.  Heh, heh, heh.  Anyway,
=====================
Geez, imagine if such a jerk got hold of a REAL fast car.

Which brings me to today's interesting idea for car security &c.

If one has an MSD ign system, with the rev limiter, one could easily use the
rev limiting feature to advantage. Here's one idea: set the rev limit to 2000
or 3000 rpm, unless the secret enable switch is set for more reasonable use.
Great for letting the kids drive the car, too. So, the thieves might GET the
car, but can't outrun anybody, can eventually get her up to hwy speed, but very
slowly. I suggest a magnetic switch like the house alarm systems use, mounted
such that if you place your magnet near it [other side of a plastic panel,
say...] then the higher limit is enabled, if no magnet there, absurdly low
limit is in force.

Imagine the thieves getting BUSTED because the can't  go very fast, and the b/u
lites are on, and the lic. plate frame is flashing "this car is stolen!" Heh.
All very easy to do.


- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 11:31:27 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: heads D3

From: ejhufnagel@juno.com (Edward J. Hufnagel)
Subject: Head I.D.

      Does anyone know what D3A heads are?

- ------------------------------
Die&sell heads. GREAT for compression ;-)

Small valves. Heavy. Not much use except for a Diesel engine.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 11:35:29 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: removing T'stat

 >- Removing the thermostat *will* make your car run cooler. >>

Does everyone agree with all of this? I just wanted to know if
anyone found any discrepencies with any of this......TIM
- ------------------------------

Removing the T'stat will not necessarily cure an overheating problem. In a
normally functioning system, all the coolant passes thru the hole that the
t'stat has after it's open- much smaller than the hole there w/ NO t'stat. If
the car's overheating, find the problem & fix it correctly. Start be inserting
a new thermostat, or better yet, one known to be good. Check it in a pan of
boiling water... that will either fix it or rule out the thermostat, allowing
you to go on & find the real problem.

As others have noted, running w/o t'stat will cause inordinately long warmup
times, and that will cause lots of extra wear, esp. on the cylinder walls, and
a loss of efficiency as well.

Do it right.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 11:54:35 -0500
From: "RC Hellebuyck" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Book or service manual?

 I was wondering if anyone had any literature
>they would recommend that wouldn't be to confusing to a non-expert like
>me.


An "Assembly Manual" is a reference god-send!  Most parts suppliers, such as
year one etc.,  carry them ($18 - $35).

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 12:30:02 -0600
From: Ryan Hehn <ryanh@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: 307 TBI

I've recently rejoined the list and seemed to have caught the tail end
of a TBI thread, so forgive me if I'm covering old ground.

My brother has an '81 Delta 88 with a 307 4-bbl (non-computer).  He's
been offered an after market TBI unit that was put on an '81 Corvette
that also has a quadrajet (350 sbc).  

Since both of these engines use the same carb, are we safe to assume
that a TBI unit that works on the Corvette will work on the Delta?

Thanks in advance,

Ryan Hehn

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 10:58:55 -0800 (PST)
From: Jack Karamanos <jalkara@whidbey.net>
Subject: Re:detriot locker style rear carriers

locker type carriers are a positive drive system to both tires at all
times except turns ie both are biting always sun rain snow ice or any
combo of. in 3 years of daily driver use the only time i had a problem was
at crater lake near the summit in a june white out.  had to stop on a
uphill grade with a side slope to the direction of travel to clear the
windshield as the vacuums could not keep up, and the get moving syndrome
was a feat, as the rear was sliding down slope as both rear tires were
positively being driven and i wanted to go up the road, not over the
cliff to the right.  just feather the throttle and then let off and it
would kinda straighten out and do it over again and eventually it is going
straight up the road.  on wet pavement just be judicial in the use of the
loud pedal and no problem.  or find a large parking lot with no dividers
and try some turning full throttle starts and you will learn how it reacts
and then be able to impress your friends with the wild tire burning antics
you and the car can do.  but lockers were made for severe duty use and
large horse power applications with no maintinance or breakage problems.
also put a line lock on to realize the benefits of the locker

    47rocket98

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 11:25:49 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: 55 Parts car

Got this request off my web page.  Not a list member - reply privately:

f you have or know of a '55 Olds parts car, please contact me 
at gandresen@altigen.com (work) 
or gandresen@ibm.net (home) 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 11:23:37 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Wounded Delta

Due to a drunken or *stupid* driver from a neighbor's party (although no
one is copping to it - yet) someone backed into the front of my Delta 88
last night.  Damage includes hood (unsalvageable buckling), front bumper
and possibly the rock shield behind the bumper.  I will tackle the
insurance company Monday but want to go out and find GOOD straight parts
myself before I even get into settling the cost of repairing my baby.  My
only consolation is the nose showed signs of repair once before - someone
had run it into something earlier in its life.  I might possibly need front
bumper supports unless I can swap on the ones I have here from another big
car.

Any and all help will be appreciated - although no one can help with how
pi*sed off I am!


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser (twin hauler)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 14:29:26 -0600
From: JR <joertexas@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Washer Bottle

Mike Rothe wrote:
> 
> JR wrote:
> >
> > How does the washer bottle mount on a 72 Cutlass?
> 
> JR, unfortunately I don't have any reference material unpacked yet to
> tell you the exact size of the screw, but those three holes that line up
> are for coarse thread sheet metal screws that mount from the tire side
> of the fenderwell.  They have a 3/8" bolt head on them, and they are
> about 1" long.  They screw right into the tab holes on the washer
> bottle.  I don't know the correct size # off hand though.
> 
> Hope this helps somewhat.
> Mike Rothe

Now that I think of it, I might have some screws like that lying around
somewhere. Thanks.

JR

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 17:08:49 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Wounded Delta

I discovered the the letters "u" and "n" are all it takes to bounce a 
post... sorry to hear about the incident, Lisa.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date:	Sun, 16 Nov 1997 11:23:37 -0800
To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
From:	James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Wounded Delta

Due to a drunken or *stupid* driver from a neighbor's party (although no
one is copping to it - yet) someone backed into the front of my Delta 88
last night.  Damage includes hood (u*nsalvageable buckling), front bumper
and possibly the rock shield behind the bumper.  I will tackle the
insurance company Monday but want to go out and find GOOD straight parts
myself before I even get into settling the cost of repairing my baby.  My
only consolation is the nose showed signs of repair once before - someone
had run it into something earlier in its life.  I might possibly need front
bumper supports unless I can swap on the ones I have here from another big
car.

Any and all help will be appreciated - although no one can help with how
pi*sed off I am!


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser (twin hauler)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 21:16:47 +0000
From: ADRIAN CARROLL <adrian.carroll@virgin.net>
Subject: Re: timing problems

I have an olds 350 with a comp cams 270 degree cam. The problem i have
is that i can not get the timing light to register at tdc or on the
pointer marks.if i adjust the timing light it reads 64 degrees and then
corresponds with the timing marks on the engine. If i connect the timing
light on no 5 plug lead it appears to correspond with the timing marks.
I have tried both hei and mallory points distributor and the timing has
not come on to the timing marks.the engine runs ok , but i cannot get it
on the marks, could the cam be this far advanced and still run. If so
how can this be so, and how much performance could be lost.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 14:17:21 -0700
From: Dustin Cross <livnrt@mssl.uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Used Cars

OldsGuyGA@aol.com wrote:
> 
>   hay TL is the movie used cars on video i love movue with old cars..
>   have you seen tin men  lots of old 50's 60's cads  great movie..

Used Cars is available, I think I got mine at a Target (not sure when)  has Kurt Russell 
and Jack Warden   it was made by columbia pictures   hope that helps

Dustin

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 21:49:34 +0000
From: clarence wirtz <cw63nova@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Wounded Delta

Sorry to hear the bad news.  I hope that some one will take the blame like
they should for doing it.  


Clarence
86 Cutlass 4DR 307 O/D
>
Clarence
86 Cutlass 4DR 307 O/D 2.56's
San Antonio

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 19:35:34 -0500
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Retro fitting OEM A/C

Don Sowers wrote:
 
> Which issue are you looking for?  I don't have many, but we may get
> lucky.
> 
> Don

I'm pretty sure that I'm looking for the May '96 issue.

Paul

- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

Why do they sterilize the needles for lethal injections?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 16:54:48 -0800
From: Brad Bowles <wolds@napanet.net>
Subject: NON Olds Info needed...

For you old hot rodders on the west coast...
I'm looking for any info that you may have on a specific car.  I
recently bought an old '57 Chevy with lots of race history in the late
60's.  Many ex-racers remember it, most saw it at the track, some said
they saw it as a feature article in a magazine.
	The '57 Chevy is the 150 model, it's Hugger orange, with a hand-painted
character of a mean looking rabbit behind each front wheel on the
fender.  Above the rabbit is written "Thumper".  The car has provisions
for a drag chute, and wheelie bar.
	I do know that it was raced at Half Moon Bay Dragstrip in CA, and Lions
Drag Strip in Wilmington CA.  The driver on the car (whom I don't know
the name of) was killed racing another car of his in the late '60's. 
This "thumper" sat in his wife's garage until '88, when the person I got
it from bought it.
Any info would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks
Brad
70 442
57 Chevy 150

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 21:08:18 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Xmas Gifts Wanted (fwd)

Doug Kitchener asked me to post this for him... if anyone can help out, 
let him know directly since he's not on the list.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Douglas Kitchener <dk0009@epfl2.epflbalto.org>
Subject: Xmas Gifts Wanted
                                    *****

Howdy, Olds Listers!  This "guest post" comes to you thru the courtesy of Greg 
Beaulieu.  I'm looking for a couple of things for a friend for Christmas 
(actually, also her birthday which is December 7.)  She has a white '71 Cutlass 
S Hardtop Coupe, and I'd like to give her a clock for it, and an original 
magazine ad.  I'm kinda destituted right now, so can only go $15 on a clock, 
including shipping (I'm in the Washington DC area), but it doesn't have to work.  
Would prefer a Borg over a General Time.  Have placed want ads for these items 
on Bryceman's page, but thought I'd post to the list also!  TIA for any help!

Best regards,

Doug Kitchener
dk0009@mail.pratt.lib.md.us

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 20:16:10 -0500 (EST)
From: DrkSole@aol.com
Subject: Car Craft Top Ten Oldses.

Anyone read the December issue of Car Craft?  They list the 66 Toro as one of
the 10 ten olds muscle cars.  Now this isn't too bad, but according to them
it came with dual quads.. oh well..

DrkSole
73 Cutlass Supreme
67 Delta 88 Custom 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 20:26:20 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Racking my brain

True "Ford" words...  hehehe...  Anyway...  

I have been looking and looking and looking, and I can't seem to find
what I am looking for:

I am looking for CHROME motor pieces for an 87 307 in a Cutlass Supreme,
I am wondering if maybe Small Block (gasp) Chevy Chrome parts will
work.....  HELP!!!  The car looks too good to leave in "Stock" form.
- -- 
             		    Jerry Christopher
     ___        HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
 ___/.o \__, 	     1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
_=O------O=__________It ain't my father's Oldsmobile_______

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 18:24:50 -0700
From: Tim Rudolph <trudolph@frii.com>
Subject: Air Cleaner options

  I was wondering if there's such a combo for my '69 442 in a 14" round
aircleaner (preferably chrome) that would clear both HEI and allow for an
electronic choke.  I'm getting a new carb with an electric choke and am
gonna follow with HEI soon after that.

Tim Rudolph
trudolph@frii.com
'69 442 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Nov 1997 05:35:52 -0800
From: "Debbie Cadam" <cadmcory@diac.com>
Subject: 1957 OLDS

	I am helping my father sell his 57 Olds.  It is a 2door Boyds rod custom.
It has the rebuilt origional moror and trans, custom paint, wheels, and
black tuck interior.  The car has been lowered a few inches with black and
BMW gold paint.  It looks really cool.  
He is asking $12,500. If you are interested and would like a more info,
please e-mail me 
at lcadam@unipac.com.  We have driven this car from Denver CO to Iowa and
back for the 4th street cruise, and it drives great and gets alot of looks.
Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 21:03:58 -0500
From: Chris Witt <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: driveshaft drops

No, not like Neutral Drops, the miracle trans cure...

I learned to LOVE the Drive shaft safety loop on my last car...  While
the rear end and tranny were dying, the drive shaft got SEVERLY worn
until one day, it said, "CYA" and dropped outta the tranny....  Thank
god for the safety loop...  I'da been looking at the ground upside
down...  <G>

The 78 Cutlass race car twisted the driveshaft in two the 2nd run with
the 112K mile old 425 Toro motor. [Thank MSD for the rev limiter!] No
safetly loop- was gonna get one soon. [like an alarm...] anyhow, the
shaft is not all that strong in compression after being beat up. It bent
in half, mangled up, and the rear half whipped around and punched a hole
thru the floor, but no serious pole-vaulting. It now has a ds safety
loop of course. I put in  a larger dia. shaft from a late '60's car w/o
any rubber isolation. 

- -cbwitt-

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 21:10:16 -0500
From: Chris Witt <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: early/late flexplates

Subject: Re: 455 Flexplate onto 400/425

DON'T waste your time, go find the correct flexplate. I tried this with
a
350 flexplate on a 330 motor. MAJOR balance problem !!! I found a
flexplate off of a 425 and used it with great success !!!

Katana72  
====================

It's not quite THAT easy, as the guy who I bought a 69 400 motor from
found out. He did one better than just stick the flexplate from the late
motor up to the 425 crank & put in the 4 holes that lined up... which
would have at least put the weight in about the right place. No, he
FLIPPED OVER the flexplate such that one of the offset holes then lined
up, making 5 out of 6 OK. Close enough, he figured... never mind that
the balance weight was not about 60 degrees out of position! Well, with
the crank in there being over 1/4" short on stroke, maybe he figured it
would offset the 5:1 compression he was making. 
.
Lesson: don't mix-n-match w/o consulting the experts or doing some
extensive investigation yourself.
.
I made universal flexplates which fit both early & late pattern cranks,
but it's not easy to do right, and it's a bit costly, only a good idea
if you CANNOT find the early flexplate you need. 
- -cbwitt

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 21:24:28 -0500
From: IRONMAN <jev114@email.psu.edu>
Subject: Re: the Quad 442

Hey the new Q442 maybe a little more respectable than some of the older ones, pocket rocket kick butt, and that's all there is to it! and yes it does have 442 labeled on the car, so accept it, they can clean up any car ford currently produces except limited production cobra how bout that


>> > Pocket rockets rule!  definitely a car worthy of the 442 logo!!

>> 

>> two very different cars from two very different eras.  one is the q4,

>> the other is the 442 - case closed.

>> 

>> jg '72 442/455

>> 

>Is there a 442 emblem on the side of the car or not?  Own one and youll 

>know.  nuff said!!

>

>

<center><paraindent><param>out,out</param>Jeff Verkleeren 

<bold><color><param>ffff,0000,0000</param>Scholar -- Gentleman  --  Judge
of Beautiful Women and Fine Whiskey

</color></bold></paraindent>Mechanical Engineering 

Penn State University

</center>mailto:jev114@psu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 21:40:03 -0500
From: Chris Witt <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Edelbrock head problem

"Designed for high-performance non-emission 1965-76 Oldsmobile 400, 425 
and 455 cubic inch engines (except 68-69 W-30) "
==================================
What kind of crap is that?

"except the 68-9 W30's" !?

Bullshit! [Pardon my French] What possible difference could there be in
the G-block W30 motors? The bores are puny, to be sure, but the same
heads that work on all other Olds big bloke [sic] engines work on the
68-9 W30 motor. 

I guess I'm just po'd because that's all I *have* is the 68-9 W30. 

That, and I'm not buying that there is some difference that precludes
their use on such a motor.

blah. Comments?
- -cbwitt-

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 21:30:33 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: 70cutlass thermostat?

>I have a 1970 Cutlass Convertible with a 1967 425 in it. (no a/c)
>My problem is that it takes well over 30 minutes for the heater 
>to start heating.
>I don't no if it has a 160,180,or 195 thermostat in it now.

It sounds like your thermostat is stuck open, which is going to cause your
engine to experience more wear than it should. I'd go with a 180'
thermostat, regardless of what's in there now.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 21:30:28 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Cooling topics

>>I think we came to agree that the faster the coolant moves through the
>>block, but the slower it moves through the radiator, and the faster the air
>                ^^^^^^  NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO
>>passes through the radiator, the cooler the engine will be.
 [snip]
>I'm a mechanical engineer (structural analysis) and work with a group of
>mechanical engineers who are specialists in thermal analysis.  These guys(and
>gals) even wrote some under hood thermal system analysis software for GM a
>couple of years ago.  (Hughes Aircraft is a subsidiary of GM)  When I ran some
>of the "slow down the flow theories" by them they got a good chuckle.  

Now this is why I'm glad this list is here; to get some real knowledge
flowing, rather than just simply pooling our ignorance. 

>In a nutshell, slowing down either the flow of water (in the block OR radiator)
>or the flow of air (thru the radiator) will NOT improve heat transfer.
I'll try
                                             ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
OK, but the rate at which heat transfers is not the issue; water temperature
at the radiator uotlet is.

>and explain why.
>
>The key concept is that the heat transfer across an interface is
proportional to 
>the DIFFERNCE IN TEMPERATURE between the two mediums (media?), not the
velocity. 
>Heat always flows from hot to cold.   

With ya so far! (I'm always afraid of these things being revised since I
took Physics in college!)

>If the radiator airflow slows or stops, the air around the fins will heat up
>until it approaches the temperature of the fins and heat transfer will slow
>(bad).

Got ya there; water wouldn't cool off at all.

>If the radiator waterflow slows, the water will cool until it approaches the
                                      ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Yup, that's what you want to happen, so that there is a greater temperature
differential between the surfaces of the coolant passages in the block and
the coolant itself: the more the water cools in the radiator, the better it
will cool the engine itself. I think this would be an instance where
common-sense agrees with theory.

>temperature of the tubes and heat transfer will slow(bad). 

At which point, we don't care any more; the rate of heat transfer and its
relative efficiency are irrelevant. In fact, it would be _ideal_ if the
coolant stayed in the radiator until the rate of heat transfer reached zero;
then, you would be pumping water back into the engine as cool as it possibly
could be!

>If the  block water flow slows, the water will rise in temperature until it
>approaches the temperature of the block and heat transfer will slow(bad).  

Right: Cool Air fast through the radiator, cool water fast through the block!

>You want the radiator water at the highest possible temperature (in order to
>maximize heat rejection to the air)  and the engine block water to be as
cool as
>possible to maximize heat rejection from the block into the water.   

With you so far on this point...

>The way to
>achieve this is to pump hot block water into the radiator as fast as
possible.  

OK, but you want to pump it through as slowly as possible for maximum
cooling (again, forget about relative efficiency), since time is a factor
for heat transfer (correct me if I'm mistaken on that point), and slower
velocity increases the time the coolant has to, well, cool off in the radiator.

>The best you could do would be to have the block and radiator water
temperatures
>to be at the same temperature 

OK, you lost me there: the best would be for the block to be at its optimum
operating temperature, which usually equates with about a 170'-190' block
coolant temperature. ANY radiator coolant temperature, flow rate, heat
transfer rate, etc, that allows the block to remain at that temperature is
best. Too cool, or too hot, and engine performance declines, regardless of
whether some transfer rate or coolant flow rate is at a maximum or a minimum.

As for most of our overheating problems, it's simply the fact that there is
too little heat transferred between the radiator fins and the air flowing
past it, usually because the air itself is closer to the coolant temperature
(usually anything over 90' will cause a rise in temperature in my Olds
engines). Since the rate of heat transfer is a problem, increasing the
amount of time for the coolant to cool in the radiator, whether by
increasing the radiator surface area as in a 4-core radiator (increases time
and mass transferring a finite amount of energy, hence resulting in a cooler
radiator output), or reducing the rate of flow through the radiator (thereby
increasing time, but with diminishing returns). Of course, reducing the rate
of flow also reduces the rate of flow through the block, so the water is
being heated to a higher temperature, so that's not always a good option.

>but to do so you would have to pump the water
>through infinitely fast.  Now there are diminishing returns from pumping faster
>and this is considered in the sizing of the radiator and water pump by the
>designers, but in no case will increasing the flow rate thru the radiator cause
>reduced cooling capability.

What would happen to the time component in terms of actual quantity of heat
transferred, if the time of the coolant in the radiator could be reduced to
zero (which an infinitely fast flow would do)? Show me an actual formula for
heat energy transfer where time is not included in calculating the *amount*
of heat transferred (again, you might have a phenomenal rate of heat
transfer, but that's not the point), and I'll grant you every point you
make, including making that water flow fast through the radiator.

As for my cooling interests, I'll just say that I start to noticeably lose
power above 205' coolant temperature, and the engines feel strongest at
about 170'-180', though the factory apparently thought it was perfectly safe
to operate the engine at temperatures up to 254' (when the "HOT" light comes
on).
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 21:30:35 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Carb question

>Thank you for the info...I let you know if I ever find out what A.I.R. really
>is

I thought somebody already posted this, but it stands for Air Injection
Reactor, which was a common emissions-reduction item on GM cars, though only
very early and very late on Oldsmobiles. A small air pump would pump
("inject") fresh air into the exhaust ports, causing unburned fuel to burn
after leaving the cylinder.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 22:44:28 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: 1957 Olds Custom FS

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Debbie Cadam" <cadmcory@diac.com>
Subject: 1957 OLDS
Date:	Sat, 15 Nov 1997 05:35:52 -0800

	I am helping my father sell his 57 Olds.  It is a 2door Boyds rod custom.
It has the rebuilt origional moror and trans, custom paint, wheels, and
black tuck interior.  The car has been lowered a few inches with black and
BMW gold paint.  It looks really cool.  
He is asking $12,500. If you are interested and would like a more info,
please e-mail me 
at lcadam@unipac.com.  We have driven this car from Denver CO to Iowa and
back for the 4th street cruise, and it drives great and gets alot of looks.
Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 20:14:29 -0700
From: "Clarence R. Isaacks II" <ike.isaacks-denver@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: fan clutch

I just lost my fan clutch in my Vista Cruiser.  Seems the seal let go as
there appears to be a film of oil (silicone I think) all over the
engine.  Since I will have to replace the clutch, has anyone got any
ideas about the fan.  Would it be better to go with the lighter big
blade fan from Flex or keep the orginal?

I use the wagon for towing and general long vacation trips.  Just
rebuilt the 350 and am in process of building a 200-4R to replace the
400.  I have replaced the ring & pinion to 4:11 also but have caculated
that with .67 O.D. the engine will still turn about 2300-2400 at 70 mph.
I really like the way it jumps off the line now but turinig close to
4000 at 70 really eats the gas up.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 20:17:29 -0700
From: "Clarence R. Isaacks II" <ike.isaacks-denver@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: rear diff/diff

As I said before I just rebuilt my rear diff and changed to 4:11 gears. 
The diff is not posi.  Is it possible to utilize my existing housing and
change the inards to posi parts?  If so what would be a good donor
vehicle?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 21:29:54 -0600
From: "L. D. Lyons" <ll62539@navix.net>
Subject: 59 Olds

I am new to this list and I live in Hastings NE.
I have a 59 Olds Dynamic 88 2dr HDTP. I have no Idea about availability of
parts for this car.
I also would like to know what size of motor it has in it.
Please help
Butch Lyons
ll62539@navix.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 22:35:22 -0500 (EST)
From: Shaun Miller <smille02@astro.ocis.temple.edu>
Subject: q4psu

Does anyone out there on the list have a q4 (442 or w41).  i hear little 
talk of these cars.  (maybe they just cant keep up)  Does any one own an 
scx?  Of the cars ive taken on very few have won.  Im not talking rice 
burners either!  I raced this one guy with his 307 all decked out 
thinking hes bad dual exhaust fake gold hurst emblems, as soon as i 
downshifted he was gone.  Why do all these punks waste my gas, its 
expensive in NY.  Lets see some more q4 commentary, and pocket rocket 
guys lets make these guys wish they sold their "performance cars".  This 
q4 definitely aint your fathers oldsmobile, (19 years of working on 
oldsmobiles and racing does actually make it my pops' olds).  Despite how 
chill this car is if anyone is looking for a cherry 89 calais gold 
edition (200 made) email me back(minus performance parts).  Lets rock q4 
guys!!  This ones for you jeff, good luck with the new 442 motor!!!


shaun
89 calais
81 custom cruiser
q4 till the day i die!!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 22:37:46 -0800
From: Larry <dilligaf@tl.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Retro fitting OEM A/C

Don Sowers wrote:
 
> Which issue are you looking for?  I don't have many, but we may get
> lucky.
> 
> Don

I'm pretty sure that I'm looking for the May '96 issue.


I have a copy of the May '96 issue.  What exactly is it that you are
looking for?

						Larry

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 22:51:23 -0500
From: "G. Douglas Burton" <postman@writeme.com>
Subject: Re: Cooling topics

I have been checking out this topic for awhile.  A lot of good opinions for
sure.  Along these same lines, I had a hole in my radiator and recently
replaced it.  The old radiator was of course the original for my '84
Cutlass V6.  I replaced it with one from the same model, but it had a V8
engine.  Naturally it is bigger and I had to move the rubber mountings on
the bottom.  My question is, will this radiator allow my car to operate at
the proper temperture, or will it now run too cool?  I drive this car on a
rural mail route and it always ran pretty hot while on the route.  I just
installed it today and have only driven it about 1 hour since I put it in.
It seemed to provide plenty of heat, but I had to set the temp control
higher than I usually do for what seemed the same temperture level in the
car.  Any opinions and comments welcome...

Just a message from Doug
http://www.seidata.com/~gdburton

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 22:56:45 -0500
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale 

                                        C&M Classic Parts
                                      1132 Chatmoss Drive
                                    Virginia Beach, VA 23464
                                         (757)474-0869 or
                                      <chermac@exis.net>
Hours:  Mon-Fri  6:00 pm - 10:00 pm, Sat 9:00 am - 6:00 pm, Sunday Closed
We accept all major Credit Cards. VISA, M/C, Amer. Express, and Discover.
New Parts: ____________________________________________________________________ 
(6) Hurst Wheels 14x6 (5 on 4 3/4) nice  $2300.00 
65 Cutlass/442 PO2 Deluxe Wheelcovers (N.O.S. in the box)  $350.00
65 442 Air Cleaner (top only, mint)  $175.00
66-67 SSI 14x6 Wheels (5)  $200.00
66-67 Toro Dual Snorkel Air cleaner  (mint) $50.00
66-67 400 4 bbl 4spd Air Cleaner unit (correct, top needs chrome) $45.00
67 442 Chrome Air cleaner (late version with no snorkel, nice)  $100.00
67 Cutlass Jetaway Trans (low miles, w/switch pitch converter)  $125.00
67 Cutlass/F-85 Grille Bar (very nice, no cracks, good chrome)  $45.00
67-69 Power Antenna assm (nice, no switch)  $45.00
67-68 Big Cars AM/FM Stereo (nice, works well)  $95.00
70 350 engine "7" heads (9000 miles, 10.0 comp, 328 stick cam)  $500.00
70 LH/RH Hood "L" moldings (few small pits under side, nice chrome) $85.00 pr
69 Rallye Pack (Gauge side only)  $75.00
70-72 Rallye Pack (Tach only, works needs needle end)  $125.00
69 442 RH Grille (nice) $50.00
75-8? Starfire Sport Steering Wheel (Tan)  $35.00
64-72 330/350 Exhaust Manifolds (nice sets)  $40.00 set
69-72  Bench Seat Headrests (black, mint)  $45.00 pr
68-72 Arm Rest Pad Bases (front, black)  $20.00 pr
68-72 Arm Rest Pad Bases (rear, post coupe, black)  $20.00 pr
68-72 Rear Defrost  (no switch)  $30.00
68-72 2 Door Chassis (coupe, solid)  $300.00 (you arrange shipping or pickup)
69-72 Column Shift Steering Column (plain)  $45.00
69-70 Console Shift Steering Column (non-tilt)  $100.00
64-72 Power Window Motors  (excellent cond) $50.00 ea
68-72 LH Convertible Pillar Post Molding (interior side, nice, black)  $35.00 
68-72 Power Steering setup  (complete)  $60.00
70-72 455 Engine Mount (NEW, made in USA)  $40.00 pr
68-72 350 Engine Mount (NEW, Made in USA)  $38.00 pr
64-72 Jetaway/TH350, 4 Spd Muncie Trans Mount (NEW, made in USA)  $14.00 
67-72 TH400 Trans Mounts (NEW, made in USA)  $17.00 ea
70-75 Sport Steering Wheels (black, nice centers, complete)  $150.00 ea
70-71 Buick GS Ram Air cleaner (nice)  $155.00
72 Buick GS Ram Air cleaner (mint restored)  $200.00
Bumper Bracket sets ALL years  $25.00 pr

****Lots of  66-68 Toronado Parts too.****

New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts for 1964-1972 Cutlass/442
_______________________________________________     
66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea                           
68-75 SSII/III Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea                       
69 Cutlass RH Grilles (N.O.S.) $85.00 ea                             
70 Cutlass Supreme Grilles (N.O.S.)  $120.00 pr
70-72 LH Coupe/Conv Door Skin (N.O.S.)  $200.00
70-72 Cutlass/442 LH Fenders (N.O.S. (2) left) $495.00 ea               
71-72 Turn Signal Lens (N.O.S.)  $90.00 pr                          
71-72 Stone Shields (N.O.S.) $38.00 ea                              
71-72 Headlight Housings (plastic) (N.O.S.) $80.00 pr          
71-72 Cutlass Rear Bumpers (N.O.S. (2) left) $400.00 ea               
71-75  Cutlass Fender Emblems (N.O.S.)  $19.50 ea            
72 Cutlass Supreme & Hurst/Olds Grilles (N.O.S.)  $120.00 pr

Used Parts
_______________________________________________      
64 Cutlass/442                       
RH Headlight Bezel  $15.00                                                  
Front Bumper Core  $50.00                                                   
F-85 Fender Emblem (nice)  $5.00                                      

65 Cutlass/442
65 Cutlass/442 Wheelwell Moldings  LH/RH rear $15.00 ea
65 425 111089 Distributor  $20.00

66 Cutlass/442
66-67 Hood Hinges (nice sets)  $40.00 pr
66 Cutlass/442 Side Chrome moldings (almost complete set) Inquire
66 F-85 Post Coupe Doors (very good cond)  $100.00 ea, 190.00 pr
66 F-85/Cutlass grille (nice)   $55.00
66 F-85/Cutlass grille (good)  $35.00 
66 330 cu in 2 bbl engine (complete w/trans, 17,000 original miles)  $300.00  
66 Cutlass/442 Hood Molding  (fair cond, small crack)  $15.00
66-67 AM Radios (nice)  $30.00 ea
66-67 RH Hardtop Doors (very nice)  $100.00 ea
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
66 Cutlass/442 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
Post Coupe Exterior A-Pillar Chrome Moldings  $15.00 pr                        
F-85/Cutlass Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea                                  

67 Cutlass/442
66-67 Hood Hinges (nice sets)  $40.00 pr
67 400 442 #1111042 Distributor  $35.00
66-67 Rear Side window lower U-seals (new, Metro Moulded)  $18.00 pr
67 W-30 Core Support (Factory stamped, bent on drivers side)  $225.00
67 Cutlass Hood (mint)  $100.00
67 Cutlass Fender Emblems (nice)  $10.00 ea
67 Plain Cutlass Fender Rockets (nice)  $5.50 ea
67 Rear Defrost setup (w/switch)  $45.00
66-67 AM Radios  (nice)  $30.00 ea
66-67 RH Hardtop/Conv Doors (very nice)  $100.00 ea
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
67 F-85 Rear Bumper (very good condition)  $75.00
67 442 Hood (some rust)  $85.00
67 Front Bumper (straight, core)  $70.00
67 Cutlass Headlight Bezels (nice)  $50.00 pr
67 442 Trunk Lids (clean)  $100.00 ea
67 442 Pie Tin Decal  $3.00
67 RH Fender (small metal patch panel, straight)  $175.00

68 Cutlass/442
68 Turn Signal Lens (mint)  $12.00 ea
68 Cutlass Rear Bumper (core)  $75.00
68-69 14x6 SSII Wheels (set of 5)  $200.00
68-69 Power Antenna Assm (no switch, has adapter, needs mast)  $25.00
68 AM Radio  $25.00
68  8-Track Unit (housing cracked, needs plastic one)  $65.00
68 Hood Hinges  $55.00 pr 
68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
68-69 LH Quarter Panel  4 door (mint)  $135.00
68-69 RH Quarter Panel  4 door (mint)  $135.00
68-72 Cutlass S LH Rear Side Glass (clear)  $35.00              
Rear Window Molding Sets  $45.00 set                               
68 Cutlass/442 Std Horn Button (black, nice)  $7.00                     
68 Air Cleaner Stove Pipe (pipe only)  $10.00                              
68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $40.00 ea                                            
68-72 Cowl mouldings  $25.00 ea                                
68-72 B-Pillar Molding Set (black, mint) $27.50 pr 

69 Cutlass/442
69 Cruise Control Switch and Bezel  $25.00
69 Radiator Core Support 3 Row (mint, no rust holes)  $150.00
69 Tail Light Bezels (nice, pit free)  $135.00 pr
69 Trunk Lid (Conv, nice)  $175.00
69 Headlight Bezels  $60.00 pr
69 Lower Dash (radio area)  (nice)  $35.00
69 C/S Side Moldings (mint, no pits)  $15.00 ea
68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
68-69 LH Quarter Panel 4 door (mint)  $135.00
68-69 RH Quarter Panel 4 door (mint)  $135.00
69 Cutlass/442 Doors 2 dr Hardtop (mint pair)  $250.00 pr / $130.00 ea
69-72 Hood Hinges  $40.00 pr
69-70 "S" Hood Louver Chrome  $25.00 pr
69-70 "S" Hood Louver Moldiings  $25.00 pr
68-72 Windshield Molding Sets  $45.00 set                                 
68-72 Fastback Rear Window Molding Sets  $45.00 set
69-72 Floor Shift Steering Column (very good)  $95.00
69 LH Top Fender Moldings (excellent) $35.00
69 RH Fender (small nickel sized hole)  $225.00
69 Rear Bumper (V05 rub strip) one small ding  $135.00
69 Front and Rear 4 Doors  (small dings, no rust) $55.00 ea
69 4 Door Panels (Gold, cloth, nice)  $25.00 ea

70 Cutlass/442
70-72 LH Fender (dimpled, nice)  $185.00
70-72 Power Lock Solenoids (electric)  $35.00 ea
70-72 14x7 SSII Wheels (set of 5)  $200.00
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
70-72 RH Door (Coupe/Conv)  $115.00
70-72 Wide Chrome window moldings (with sweepers)  $80.00 set
70 350 4 bbl Stick engine (complete, minus carb runs great)  $275.00
70 FLAT Fender RH (small metal patch panel installed nice)  $300.00 
70 Cutlass Supreme Door Panels (black mint) 4 for $100.00
70 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
70 Cutlass Supreme Hood (excellent)  $115.00
70 442/SX/Rally 350 Rear Cutout Bumper (CORE)  $110.00
70-71 Halo Vinyl Top Molding sets no "L " moldings (mint) $55.00 set
70-72 455 Std. Iron intake manifold (auto cars)  $55.00
70-72 Std. Auto Console Shift Lens  (repro)  $23.00 ea (backordered)
70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switch Bezels  $5.00 ea             
70 RH Sport Mirror Shell  $40.00
70 F-85 Horn Button (cheap style wheel, excellent)  $10.00
70 Oldsmobile Options Folder  $5.00                                    
69-70 C/S Front Hood Rocket (nice)  $12.00                                
69-70 "S" Hood Chrome Vents  $25.00 pr                                        
69-70 "S" Hood Vent Moldings  $25.00 pr                                        
70 "S" Pillared Coupe Door Panels (good cond)  $40.00 pr         
70 Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $90.00                                  
70-72 Black A/C Dash Pads  $120.00 ea                  
70-72 Glove Box Doors  $15.00 ea
70-72 RH Fender (has small patch panel)   $185.00                               
70 Cutlass 'S' Tail Light Lens   $17.00 ea
70 Cutlass Supreme Tail Light Lens  $23.00 ea

71 Cutlass/442
70-72 LH Fender (dimpled, nice)  $185.00
70-72 Power Lock Solenoids (electric)  $35.00 ea
70-72 14x7 SSII Wheels (set of 5)  $200.00
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
70-72 RH Door (Coupe/Conv)  $115.00
71-72 Power Lock Switches  $12.00 ea
71-72 Power Window Switches (nice)  $25.00 (4) button,  $10.00 singles
71-72 Fender RH (small metal patch in bottom)  $185.00
71 Bucket Seats (need recovering, white, plastic rough)  $35.00 pr
71 C/S Door Panels (white w/pwr windows)  $40.00 pr
71-72 W-455 Aluminum intake ((2) 1/8th in repaired cracks) $675.00
71 350 4 bbl Engine (complete, carb to pan, runs excellent) $250.00
71 Cutlass Full Wheel Covers  $30.00 set
71-72 Sport Mirrors (excellent cond)  $100.00 pr 
71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00
71 Front Rocket Emblem (nice)  $5.00
70-72 C/S LH/RH Side Glass  $25.00 ea 
71 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr

72 Cutlass/442
70-72 LH Fender (dimpled, nice)  $185.00
70-72 Power Lock Solenoids (electric)  $35.00 ea
70-72 14x7 SSII Wheels (set of 5)  $200.00
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
70-72 RH Door (Coupe/Conv)  $115.00
71-72 Power Lock Switches  $12.00 ea
71-72 Power Window Switches (nice)  $25.00 (4) button,  $10.00 singles
71-72 10 Bolt 2.56:1 (open rear)  $75.00
71-72 Sport Mirrors (excellent cond)  $100.00 pr 
72 Cutlass/442 Owners Manual  $7.00                                  
71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00
72 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr            


Jim Chermack
OCA #24275

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #958
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