
oldsmobile-digest      Saturday, November 8 1997      Volume 01 : Number 943



Re: Final Note Quad 4
Re: H*lp with Crankshaft ID
Re: Sport Mirriors
Re: Lindberg W-30
Re: '67 Rallye-Pac installation
1st gear ratio's
Re: 1st gear ratio's
Re: Recovering Property (non Olds and long - was: Re: Stolen 84 H/O  -Long)
Re: Rear Defrost
Re: Stinky Upholstery--yuk
Re: Tires !
Re: Recovering Property (non Olds and long - was: Re: Stolen 84 H/O  -Long)
fastest 442?
iggernance
'34 Olds info
ship olds pcs to NZ
Quad 4 discussion
Quad 4 discussion
Final Note
unsubscribe olds
Re: Retro fitting OEM A/C
Re: Re[2]: 4bbl carbs on '78-87 Cutlass?
Re: 4bbl carbs on '78-87 Cutlass?
'83-'84 HO
Hood Ornament
Re: Lindberg W-30
Re: winterize (long!)
Re: Retro fitting OEM A/C
190 million hp....1/2s ET
Re: Tires !
Re: 190 million hp....1/2s ET
63 Starfire
Re: 190 million hp....1/2s ET
Re: 190 million hp....1/2s ET
I love Quad 4's
'55 Rocket 88 FS
Re: Final Note Quad 4
Re: '55 Rocket 88 FS
GEARS
Build Sheet codes
UNBOUNCE: '63 Starfire convert FS
Re: 4bbl carbs on '78-87 Cutlass?
Need Help identifying my Carb 1966 Delta88
Re: Tires !
Re: GEARS
Re: Dashboard
Conv. frame
ENGINE PAINT
radio problem
Re: GEARS
Re: Buzzed
Re: 4bbl carbs on '78-87 Cutlass?
12" Disc brake donor cars for 67 a-body????
Re: radio problem
Re: Conv. frame
Re: Buzzed - better late than never?
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #941
RE: ADMIN: How to Leave Us
Re: Buzzed - better late than never?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 18:48:11 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Final Note Quad 4

IRONMAN wrote:
> 
> I only have a few words to all you non-believers out their
> 
> IGNORANCE IS BLISS
>                            Jeff Verkleeren
>   Scholar -- Gentleman -- Judge of Beautiful Women and Fine Whiskey
>                         Mechanical Engineering
>                         Penn State University

I don't know about the rest of you, but the manly beating on the chest
theme is getting a little old to me.  As I remember, 1/4 mile speeds and
e.t.'s are the results of power to weight ratio, torque, traction (tire
size, pressure, stickiness of tire compound and track conditions),
driver's ability and rear end ratios.  A lot of other factors enter into
it also, i.e. humidity, track surface, etc, etc, etc.  The point is, a
lot of cars came from the factory (therefore pure bone stock) loaded for
bear.  Could it be improved by alterations?  Heck that is a dumb
question, isn't it?  I don't remember a section in the section defining
"being a man" requiring the ownership of the fastest car in XXX, State
or beating Rustangs, etc. If it did we would all be little boys. 
Besides when you start listing the fastest cars, do you go by 1/8 mile,
0-60, 1/4 mile, top end?  Beats me.  I do know (and so would most of
you) that when you start talking about 1/4 mile times, you have to
include a lot of vehicles we would rather not discuss, i.e., L-88
Camaros & Vettes, Hemi Cudas & Challengers, etc.  Guys, those were
factory stock also.  So less stop beating the chest and arguing over who
can beat a Rustang.  BIG DEAL!  All you need are the right criteria and
equipment.  As has been proven over the years, all you need is the price
of admission.

One other thing I know everyone is aware of.  When you are comparing
times/speeds from different tests, you lose the consistency of the same
conditions, drivers, etc.  Therefore, this would not be a valid
comparison to be used under scientific conditions.  

In conclusion, ignorance is not bliss.  It results in tire tracks over
your rear when you stick your head in the sand to avoid the truth.  Just
like in the old west, the designation of the fastest gun in town is a
temporary condition at best.  Let's get along and enjoy the friendly
banter, but please, no more sniping.  You all might miss and hit a woman
or a child.  Thank you for your time.

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, Ky

PS-Please, no flaming or egging of my computer, house, etc.  Everyone
has an opinion and I am expressing mine.  I mean no disrespect to
anyone, but this topic is getting a little tacky and overblown.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 20:18:58 -0500 (EST)
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: Re: H*lp with Crankshaft ID

I have a '68-9 ( I think ) 350, #5 heads, dual exhausts, 4bbl--and the crank
has the infamous 'notch' seen on forged cranks.

Is this possibly a forged crank in a 350? Was there such a thing?

CoupeKing

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 20:27:32 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: Sport Mirriors

I recently sold off a pair that where in very could shape 
they went for $125.00

I also have sold other sets for same

Robert Schinkel
1970 442 Conv.
1970 W-31
1970 Rallye 350
1970 Cutlass Conv.


>    I would also like to know what a pair of 1970
> sport mirriors are worth with new mirriors in them and overall very good
> condition.
> 
> Thanks,
> Tom Williams
> 70-W31

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 20:35:32 -0500
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Lindberg W-30

Chris Matthes wrote:
 
> what's wrong with the tail light lens???
One of the lower lenses is only half there.  The other half is either
broken off or wasn't molded properly

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

If it's tourist season, why can't we shoot them?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 20:35:07 -0500 (EST)
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: Re: '67 Rallye-Pac installation

I'm cut off under the dash, and don't know if I need a short harness--from
gauge to dash harness- or a complete dash harness.
My gauge has a rectangular plug with 6-8 wires coming out the back. These
wires have been cut ~6" long.

I really need a chassis svc manual!...

CoupeKing

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 01:43:11 +0000
From: clarence wirtz <cw63nova@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: 1st gear ratio's

Does any one know what the first gear ratio' were on the turo 350, 400, 200r4 
ect.?

Thanks,

Clarence
86 Cutlass 4dr 307 o/d  

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 19:50:40 -0600
From: Shang <shoover@flash.net>
Subject: Re: 1st gear ratio's

clarence wirtz wrote:
> 
> Does any one know what the first gear ratio' were on the turo 350, 400, 200r4
> ect.?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Clarence
> 86 Cutlass 4dr 307 o/d


2.52, 2.48 & 2.73 - respectively

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 20:52:37 -0500 (EST)
From: "Peg O'Connor" <peg@grove.ufl.edu>
Subject: Re: Recovering Property (non Olds and long - was: Re: Stolen 84 H/O  -Long)

Jeez, all this talk about never seeing your car again has me thinking.
I'm having a guy do a lot of engine work on Red Mine, and I haven't seen
it in a while.  I know I oughta go by there and check it out, but now I'm
a little nervous.  I knew he was slow as molasses when I took it to him,
but I was referred to him my my paint-and-body man, whom I trust
completely.  I haven't worried about getting it back for so long because I
don't have a garage, and all it would take is some drunk University of
Florida undergrad to hit it, key it, etc.  At least I knew it was safe in
a garage when I left it.  

Just thinking out loud . . . .

8)
peg
1978 Cutlass Calais
1986 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 20:54:22 -0500
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Rear Defrost

Green, Andrew wrote:
> I don't think there was any connection between the A/C and rear-defog
> options; they have nothing particular in common

That's not a correct statement.  From '70 to '72 the rear defogger
switch was an integral part of the HVAC controls.  He'll have to find a
standard heater control with a rear defogger switch in it, or, since
there's already a holw in the switch panel, he could get away with
changing the applique on the front.  They used different appliques for
heater, heater with rear defog, A/C, and A/C with defog.  I've seen a
few of the A/C/Defog ones, but can't say that I've ever seen a
heater/defog one, although I'm sure they exist.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

If it's tourist season, why can't we shoot them?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 20:59:09 -0500 (EST)
From: "Peg O'Connor" <peg@grove.ufl.edu>
Subject: Re: Stinky Upholstery--yuk

> Peg, try laying some sort of cotton (or other breathable) cloth over the top
> of the seat.  Perhaps an old beach towel, one layer of thickness only.
> Sprinkle the kitty litter on top, say 1/4" thick and leave for 5 or 6 days.
> Good Luck.

Thanks to all who suggested fixes for my recent Raid problem :)
I first tried some Damp Rid, which helped a lot, and will probably try the
other recommendations soon.  You guys are great!

8)
peg
1978 Cutlass Calais
1986 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 21:18:24 -0500
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Tires !

Gary Manton wrote:
> 
> Isn't it true that the size closest to 8.50-14 equal to a 235-14 and not a
> 225-14.  I know that this is what is on my car now, and the speedometer
> cable which runs throught the tire, reads fast, because the wheel is smaller
> than what it was originally calibrated for.  Do you know of 235-14's anywhere?

235/14s are not available anywhere as far as I know.  The largest tire I
was able to come up with is the Cooper Trendsetter 225/14.  They're a
big improvement over the 215/14s that I took off.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

If it's tourist season, why can't we shoot them?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 21:25:29 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Recovering Property (non Olds and long - was: Re: Stolen 84 H/O  -Long)

Peg O'Connor wrote:
> 
> Jeez, all this talk about never seeing your car again has me thinking.
> I'm having a guy do a lot of engine work on Red Mine, and I haven't seen
> it in a while.  I know I oughta go by there and check it out, but now I'm
> a little nervous.  I knew he was slow as molasses when I took it to him,
> but I was referred to him my my paint-and-body man, whom I trust
> completely.  I haven't worried about getting it back for so long because I
> don't have a garage, and all it would take is some drunk University of
> Florida undergrad to hit it, key it, etc.  At least I knew it was safe in
> a garage when I left it.
> 
> Just thinking out loud . . . .
> 
> 8)
> peg
> 1978 Cutlass Calais
> 1986 Cutlass Supreme

Peg, 

Not to alarm you, but that was how I got hooked up with Paul, the car
thief wannabe.  He was "friends" with my mechanic friend/client.  My
client said I could trust Paul.  Yeah, right!!!  Just a little friendly
advice, go by from time to time and check on your baby.  Believe me you
will feel MUCH better for doing so if it's not too far away.

Did you ever email me the additional info on the scanners?  If so I
didn't receive it.  Would appreciate any added info you might have. 
Email me directly if you don't mind.  Thank you.

Don Sowers

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 21:49:29 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: fastest 442?

Bernie...........1 of our 737-400's a/c # is 442, so I guess that work on the
fastest 442 on the list!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
=================
Ah, faster than a 489.473284 HP 307? Shyeah, right! Wake up & smell the rubber,
dude!

Tongue wedged firmly in cheek,
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 22:35:50 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: iggernance

>IGNORANCE IS BLISS
=================
That explains why I'm so giddy with happiness lately. heh.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 22:40:19 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: '34 Olds info

anyone out there with a scanner and pictures of original or modified
1934 Oldsmobiles.  He needs this info to finish the "project".
Please e-mail me if you can help.   Dave.T.Smith
===============
To me, this would seem an ideal use for the Olds History Center. As luck would
have it, I had to totally clear out my email, so I no longer have the info at a
keystroke. But, it's something like:

Olds History Center
mail stop 1040
920 Townsend
Lansing, MI 48910

Helen Early is the contact there.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 22:42:30 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: ship olds pcs to NZ

So, there was this guy in NZ who wanted to put 350 heads on his 403, he was
asking around on the list for 403 info... I looked into shipping a set of heads
there.

Get this.

About $800.

JUST for the SHIPPING. Add about $500 for the heads & machine work... and a
local Aussie rod starts to look real appealing. Maybe he can find 350 heads
there already.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 22:40:20 -0600
From: Mike Taylor <miket@interaccess.com>
Subject: Quad 4 discussion

Well, might as well inject my 2 cents worth...

I have an '88 Grand Am that used to have a 150HP Q4, 5 speed, etc.  I autocrossed it for a year, then bought a 
'96 Camaro SS with all the SS suspension & drivetrain options.  Guess what?  The Grand Am was not as quick 
through the autocross course - but real close. The Camaro would clean the Grand Am's clock in the 1/4 - but 
mine was a stock 150 HP Q4 with a cracked head.  It appears from the debate that a W-41 front driver will at 
least hang close to the older stock iron in the 1/4, but the older musclecars will get absolutely murdered 
when it comes to anything other than a 1/4 mile jaunt.  

My conclusion:  The Camaro is definatly quicker in the 1/4 mile (at 310 HP it should be), but the Grand Am may 
actually be more fun to drive at the limits, and not much slower for autocrossing. Plus 30 to 35 MPG, etc...  
I also had a '69 Dodge Charger R/T with a built 440.  Very quick, but scary to drive in traffic because  the 
brakes are not up to snuff compared to ANY modern car.. 

So, as big fan and lover of  60/70 rear wheel drive, big block musclecars I do have to admit that the newer, 
well engineered FWD cars (like the W-41/SCX cars)  are definately better ALL AROUND cars - and therefor in 
SOME ways more fun.  Is a W-41 faster in the 1/4 - maybe not.. Now, if the Grand Am had a W-41 drivetrain, 
including limited slip it may be almost as fast in the 1/4....

So.....  I decided to retire the Camaro to streat driving, and build the Grand Am for autocross. It now has a 
92 SCX drivetrain resting in it. Hopefully will have it on the road with the new drivetrain in a week or so.

Mike Taylor
miket@interaccess.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 22:40:13 -0600
From: Mike Taylor <miket@interaccess.com>
Subject: Quad 4 discussion

Well, might as well inject my 2 cents worth...

I have an '88 Grand Am that used to have a 150HP Q4, 5 speed, etc.  I autocrossed it for a year, then bought a 
'96 Camaro SS with all the SS suspension & drivetrain options.  Guess what?  The Grand Am was not as quick 
through the autocross course - but real close. The Camaro would clean the Grand Am's clock in the 1/4 - but 
mine was a stock 150 HP Q4 with a cracked head.  It appears from the debate that a W-41 front driver will at 
least hang close to the older stock iron in the 1/4, but the older musclecars will get absolutely murdered 
when it comes to anything other than a 1/4 mile jaunt.  

My conclusion:  The Camaro is definatly quicker in the 1/4 mile (at 310 HP it should be), but the Grand Am may 
actually be more fun to drive at the limits, and not much slower for autocrossing. Plus 30 to 35 MPG, etc...  
I also had a '69 Dodge Charger R/T with a built 440.  Very quick, but scary to drive in traffic because  the 
brakes are not up to snuff compared to ANY modern car.. 

So, as big fan and lover of  60/70 rear wheel drive, big block musclecars I do have to admit that the newer, 
well engineered FWD cars (like the W-41/SCX cars)  are definately better ALL AROUND cars - and therefor in 
SOME ways more fun.  Is a W-41 faster in the 1/4 - maybe not.. Now, if the Grand Am had a W-41 drivetrain, 
including limited slip it may be almost as fast in the 1/4....

So.....  I decided to retire the Camaro to streat driving, and build the Grand Am for autocross. It now has a 
92 SCX drivetrain resting in it. Hopefully will have it on the road with the new drivetrain in a week or so.

Mike Taylor
miket@interaccess.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 21:18:48 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Final Note

No ~ bliss would be if this was indeed the final word we'd hear on what's
become a rather *tiring* subject :-)


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser (twin hauler)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 00:32:50 -0500
From: Aaron D Eoff <sheep542@mindspring.com>
Subject: unsubscribe olds

unsubscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 00:27:49 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Retro fitting OEM A/C

>Can anyone give me information regarding retro fitting a '70 Cutlass with
>A/C?  The car never had A/C.  Can a factory unit be fitted without too much
>work? (relative to what...*I know*).  If so, any ideas on $$$ for system,
>and install?  And are there systems or kits for the new R134 refrigerant?
>Resources?

Well, the holes in the firewalls for the heater boxes are significantly
different, so you'd have to do some "cut and paste" with a torch in there to
make things fit. (I considered doing the opposite, and even got a non-A/C
heater box, but then noticed the firewall stampings are completely different).

Then you'd get to route the vacuum lines, change the heater control unit,
adapt the wiring harness, upgrade the cooling system, and *then* you could
install the actual A/C components themselves. It might be possible to do
this swap from an intact donor car, along with another intact A/C car for
reference, but working from just a box of parts would be very near impossible.

A better option might be to go with an aftermarket system like from Vintage
Air; they supposedly integrate well with the existing heating/vent system,
and are much cleaner and more compact. In the long-run, it would likely cost
less as well.

Whatever route you take, it's *not* just a weekend afternoon job! Good luck!
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 00:27:52 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Re[2]: 4bbl carbs on '78-87 Cutlass?

>>      No, they didn't.  The only G-body cars to come with the Turbo Buick 
>>      3.8 liter V-6 from the factory were the Regal T-Type, the GN, the GNX, 
>>      and the Monte Carlo.
>
>Actually thats an 89 Turbo Trans Am that had the 3.8, not the Monte Carlo.
>They tried a turbo on a small V8 in the Monte in the early 80's (81?) and
>it was a dog,,, leave it to CH*V.......TIM

I recall a Motor Trend road-test of the Turbo Monte (believe it was an '80,
before the went with the revised body style; also had those odd "chessboard"
aluminum wheels...), and I distinctly recall it being a 3.8L turbo V-6,
though I'm not sure if it was a 231ci Buick motor or a 229ci Chevy motor; I
recall the article being a bit vague on that point at that time (after all,
heck, it was _Motor_Trend_!). I don't think the Pontiac 301ci turbo V-8 made
it into any production cars besides the T/A, though there was talk at the
time about expanded applications.

Come to think of it, every GM division has at one time or another had a
Turbo motor of its own design exclusive to it, though Chevy itself never
produced a turbo V-8 (not counting the Callaway conversions as factory cars).

As for the 4-bbl Olds, the '79 H/O and the '80 442's would have had them on
their 350's, but '78 may indeed have been the only year that an Olds Cutlass
was not available with a 4-bbl V-8 motor.

As a small aside, even some Buick turbo V-6 motors were 2-bbl's back in the
early days.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 00:37:24 -0500 (EST)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: 4bbl carbs on '78-87 Cutlass?

In a message dated 97-11-07 16:54:43 EST, you write:

<< Oops, I guess what they say is true, assuming makes an *ss out of u and
 me...
  >>
Actually wouldn't ass/u/ming be making an *ss out of u and ming?   :-) TIM

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 21:38:52 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: '83-'84 HO

Got this inquiry off my web site.  Non-list member, reply directly to him @
SSG7195@aol.com

I need a shifter bezil for 83/84  H/O , must be in good condition!  If you
have ANY parts for  an 83/84 H/O in super shape e-mail me!


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser (twin hauler)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 21:40:32 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Hood Ornament

Has anyone found out if you can or cannot still get the following from a
dealer?  I got this inquiry off my web page.

Need a hood ornament for a 82-86 OLDS, " Calais Only" please.thanks, Curt.
   Plz Call: 850 678-2444.


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser (twin hauler)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 01:17:34 -0500 (EST)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Lindberg W-30

In a message dated 97-11-08 01:11:01 EST, you write:

<< If you call/write to lingberg they will send you the proper hood. They
 will also send the lens.
 
 Be on the lookout for the Testors 442. Excelent model. has real metal
 wheels!
  >>

Would you have a number for Lindberg? I don't want to open my box
but would like to have the right hood and lenses for if and /or when I do.
Thanks....TIM

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 01:45:55 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: winterize (long!)

Steven Saraceno wrote:
 
> OK, its my first winter with my 70 442 convertible. Anything specialI
> should do to store it?  I have heard to put it up on blocks, keep the
> top up, keep the top down, start it once a month and let it run for a
> half hour and don't worry about it, fill the engine with an extra two
> quarts of oil, disconnect the battery.  ANy suggestions would be
> appreciated.

Storing a car is not that different from storing a boat or a snowmobile.
First thing, run the car down to a few gallons of gas, and add specified
amount of fuel stabilizer (this keeps it from turing to varnish in your
tank, lines, and carb).  Drive the car for a few miles to circulate it.
Then do a lube oil filter, and fill it with an extra quart of oil.
(Don't run the engine for *too* long after this, because the crank and
rod caps will be immersed in oil, and will turn the oil to foam).  Then
fire up the engine with the air cleaner assembly removed, and fog the
engine.  This can be done with a number of different things.  You can
get a can of fogging spray from any hardware store, and spray it into
the carb w/ light throttle for 30 seconds, and then release throttle to
flood the engine.  You can use actual fogging spray, or you can do this
with normal 5w30, but it makes it a dog to start come spring time. 
After fogging the engine, remove the sparkplugs, and pour an ounce of
fresh oil into each cylinder, then crank the engine (w/ no plugs) for
five seconds, and then replace the plugs.  DO NOT start the engine until
it's ready for the road, because you'll burn out all of the fogging oil,
which is what protects it from corrosion, and keeps everything
lubricated.

Place the vehicle up on blocks, but not under the suspension arms...the
car has to hang freely.  Remove the tires, wipe sidewalls down with
protectant (Armor All) and take a cloth with VERY VERY LITTLE oil on it,
and quickly wipe off the running surfaces of the rotors and drums. (use
VERY VERY little oil...too much will soak into the pads, plus you'll be
in the rhubarb come spring time!)  Doing this will keep the drums and
rotors from rusting, which saves you from having them machined in the
spring.  Replace the tires, (be sure to torque them on), and set
pressures.  Check level of antifreeze, and check strength as well. 
Depending on how dirty the car is, wipe it down with a damp cloth, and
then wax all painted surfaces...this helps prevent any fading or surface
rusting.

Remove battery, and preferrably store inside...but if the wife won't let
you keep a 650 CCA Exide inside, set it on a block of wood, and store it
in the garage.  Never set a battery on the ground...it'll drain it over
the course of the winter (so I'm told).  When spring arrives, trickle
charge the battery (2 amp) to 100%, and then re-install.

As for the top?  Well, I must say that I haven't a clue...I imagine just
leave it up, clean it with a cloth (and a mild soap), and then spray it
down with a protectant to resist fading.

When spring rolls around, install the battery, pull out the plugs, and
crank the engine for ten or fifteen seconds to distribute the oil.  Then
install new plugs, pour a few gallons of fresh high-test in the tank,
and fire it up...(you may have to pour a little gas down the carb for it
to catch).  Once it starts, keep the engine at a fast idle for a good 5
minutes to burn out all of the fogging oil, then shut it off, and drain
out the oil.  You can reuse this oil, or you can pour in fresh stuff,
but only the specified amount...there's no need to change the filter,
either.  When first driving the car, do a few quick stops from low
speeds (20mph max), to clean off the brakes.  After that, fill 'er with
gas, and take it down a back road to blow out all of the carbon...

Hope this helps.

S. Dave Ward  (Ennismore, Ontario, CANADA)  Yes, it snows here too...

'78 Delta 88 (350 4bbl.)
'85 Delta 88 (307 4bbl.)
'91 GMC 4x4  (305 TBI)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 02:33:20 -0500 (EST)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: Retro fitting OEM A/C

they did that on the hot rod cable show to a 67 shevelle.it costs $995, but
you didnt have to hack up the dash, etc, it looked like qual stuff
On a 67 olds a-body, you have to get a evap setup, along w/dif dash
conrtrols, along w/ a/c comp pres, cond., rec-dryr, etc. The above is 134,
new stuff
Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 02:46:31 -0500
From: Sylvan Williams <lsylvanw@vt.edu>
Subject: 190 million hp....1/2s ET

	
Please, enough already about whose car is faster than whose...the traffic
is high enough on this list without hearing people who'll never run in to
each other talk about how much their car weighs and how fast it goes.  You
all sound like a bunch of Ch*vy fans.   Superchargers, flowmasters, gears,
Quad4, W-193, and whatnot.  Who cares?  This list is meant to unite Olds
owners all around, not sectionalize them.  Brotherhood is the only way
productivity and improvement will come to us.  If you are really intent on
settling this, take it to the strip-not the screen.  With all due respect.....
L. Sylvan Williams
Bradley College of Electrical Engineering
105 Huntington La.
Blacksburg, Va  24060
(540)-961-6181
'68 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 03:02:29 -0500
From: Sylvan Williams <lsylvanw@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Tires !

At 09:18 PM 11/7/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Gary Manton wrote:
>> 
>> Isn't it true that the size closest to 8.50-14 equal to a 235-14 and not a
>> 225-14.  I know that this is what is on my car now, and the speedometer
>> cable which runs throught the tire, reads fast, because the wheel is
smaller
>> than what it was originally calibrated for.  Do you know of 235-14's
anywhere?
>
>235/14s are not available anywhere as far as I know.  The largest tire I
>was able to come up with is the Cooper Trendsetter 225/14.  They're a
>big improvement over the 215/14s that I took off.
>
>Paul
>-- 
>Paul Hartlieb
>plh@nbn.net
>'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
>'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
>
>If it's tourist season, why can't we shoot them?
>

Kelly makes a 235-60-14 in their "Charger" line and BF-Goodrich makes a
240-60-14 in the Radial T/A's.  Happy tire shopping!
L. Sylvan Williams
Bradley College of Electrical Engineering
105 Huntington La.
Blacksburg, Va  24060
(540)-961-6181
'68 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 03:10:15 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: 190 million hp....1/2s ET

Sylvan Williams wrote:
> 
> 
> Please, enough already about whose car is faster than whose

(CUT, CUT, SNIP, SNIP)


Couldn't agree with you more!!


Don Sowers

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 06:09:44 +0000
From: Tom Kunkel <tk63032@navix.net>
Subject: 63 Starfire

I have a 1963 Oldsmobile Starfire Convertible. It is complete, 
servicable, running, with little rust. Ready for restoration. It is in 
south central Nebraska. I can transport.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 10:04:50 -0500
From: evans1@serv01.net-link.net
Subject: Re: 190 million hp....1/2s ET

LSW,

With all due respect, as this list is an Oldsmobile list, Oldsmobile 
performance is and should be considered an acceptable topic here.  I suspect 
there are many people interested in how a Q4 could be transformed into a 442 
competitor, and, yes, quarter-mile times are a historically universal method 
of determining quickness of an automobile, the many variables 
notwithstanding. This discussion was continued off-list, and I, at least, 
found it quite interesting and informative.

Just as there are many of us who are not particularly interested in 
discussions relating to searches for NOS wheel trim for their Vista Cruiser 
or other cosmetic/display issues, they of course are appropriate and 
tolerated without comment.

I find your comments somewhat ironic in that you seek to unite Oldsmobile 
owners by attempting to chase off those whose ideas you disagree with.

To summarize.....if you don't wanna read it, you don't have to read it.

	
>Please, enough already about whose car is faster than whose...the traffic
>is high enough on this list without hearing people who'll never run in to
>each other talk about how much their car weighs and how fast it goes.  You
>all sound like a bunch of Ch*vy fans.   Superchargers, flowmasters, gears,
>Quad4, W-193, and whatnot.  Who cares?  This list is meant to unite Olds
>owners all around, not sectionalize them.  Brotherhood is the only way
>productivity and improvement will come to us.  If you are really intent on
>settling this, take it to the strip-not the screen.  With all due respect.....
>L. Sylvan Williams
>Bradley College of Electrical Engineering
>105 Huntington La.
>Blacksburg, Va  24060
>(540)-961-6181
>'68 Cutlass "S"
>
>


Mike Evans
Richland, MI
evans1@net-link.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 10:25:08 -0500
From: "evans1@serv01.net-link.net" <jev114@psu.edu>
Subject: Re: 190 million hp....1/2s ET

At 10:04 AM 11/8/97 -0500, you wrote:
>LSW,
>
>With all due respect, as this list is an Oldsmobile list, Oldsmobile 
>performance is and should be considered an acceptable topic here.  I suspect 
>there are many people interested in how a Q4 could be transformed into a 442 
>competitor, 

or more precisely  how the 4-4-2 could be transformed into a Q442
competitor.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 10:33:16 -0500
From: "evans1@serv01.net-link.net" <jev114@psu.edu>
Subject: I love Quad 4's

To all Quad 4 guys

I just want to let you all know, i'm just kidding with you, i know they are
great cars.
I found out one day when i tried to race on at the redlight her in town
with my stang.
I was impressed and felt like trading the stang in for one and being
humilated in front 
of a few friends.

have a good day

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Nov 97 10:52:30 EST
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: '55 Rocket 88 FS

    Found this in the local paper.  Thought I'd pass it on.  Usual
disclaimers apply. 

             Oldsmobile 1955 4 dr. Rocket 88  
             rusty & restorable
             $750/offer    Dick,   716-823-7846


    Glenn
    '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 10:56:47 -0500
From: "W-MACHINES" <W-MACHINES@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Final Note Quad 4

I agree.  Let's get it together.  Enough of the petty chatter.  I think
most of us have more constuctive intentions.

Kurt     W-MACHINES@prodigy.net
'65 JetStar 1  4-speed                  '70 Toronado GT W-34 4-sale
'66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed        '92 Achieva SCX W-41
'66 442 F-85 Deluxe  factory L-69  '90 Trofeo

- ----------
> From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Final Note Quad 4
> Date: Friday, November 07, 1997 6:48 PM
> 
> IRONMAN wrote:
> > 
> > I only have a few words to all you non-believers out their
> > 
> > IGNORANCE IS BLISS
> >                            Jeff Verkleeren
> >   Scholar -- Gentleman -- Judge of Beautiful Women and Fine Whiskey
> >                         Mechanical Engineering
> >                         Penn State University
> 
> I don't know about the rest of you, but the manly beating on the chest
> theme is getting a little old to me.  As I remember, 1/4 mile speeds and
> e.t.'s are the results of power to weight ratio, torque, traction (tire
> size, pressure, stickiness of tire compound and track conditions),
> driver's ability and rear end ratios.  A lot of other factors enter into
> it also, i.e. humidity, track surface, etc, etc, etc.  The point is, a
> lot of cars came from the factory (therefore pure bone stock) loaded for
> bear.  Could it be improved by alterations?  Heck that is a dumb
> question, isn't it?  I don't remember a section in the section defining
> "being a man" requiring the ownership of the fastest car in XXX, State
> or beating Rustangs, etc. If it did we would all be little boys. 
> Besides when you start listing the fastest cars, do you go by 1/8 mile,
> 0-60, 1/4 mile, top end?  Beats me.  I do know (and so would most of
> you) that when you start talking about 1/4 mile times, you have to
> include a lot of vehicles we would rather not discuss, i.e., L-88
> Camaros & Vettes, Hemi Cudas & Challengers, etc.  Guys, those were
> factory stock also.  So less stop beating the chest and arguing over who
> can beat a Rustang.  BIG DEAL!  All you need are the right criteria and
> equipment.  As has been proven over the years, all you need is the price
> of admission.
> 
> One other thing I know everyone is aware of.  When you are comparing
> times/speeds from different tests, you lose the consistency of the same
> conditions, drivers, etc.  Therefore, this would not be a valid
> comparison to be used under scientific conditions.  
> 
> In conclusion, ignorance is not bliss.  It results in tire tracks over
> your rear when you stick your head in the sand to avoid the truth.  Just
> like in the old west, the designation of the fastest gun in town is a
> temporary condition at best.  Let's get along and enjoy the friendly
> banter, but please, no more sniping.  You all might miss and hit a woman
> or a child.  Thank you for your time.
> 
> Don Sowers
> Nicholasville, Ky
> 
> PS-Please, no flaming or egging of my computer, house, etc.  Everyone
> has an opinion and I am expressing mine.  I mean no disrespect to
> anyone, but this topic is getting a little tacky and overblown.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 16:28:16 +0000
From: clarence wirtz <cw63nova@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: '55 Rocket 88 FS

were is this located?

At 03:52 PM 11/8/97 +0000, you wrote:
>    Found this in the local paper.  Thought I'd pass it on.  Usual
>disclaimers apply. 
>
>             Oldsmobile 1955 4 dr. Rocket 88  
>             rusty & restorable
>             $750/offer    Dick,   716-823-7846
>
>
>    Glenn
>    '69 4-4-2
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 16:40:07 +0000
From: clarence wirtz <cw63nova@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: GEARS

Does any one know if there is a good donor that might have 3:23 or 3:42
gears that the whole rear end will fit in an 86 Cutlass.  I have been doing
a little math and I think one of these ratios would realy wake up the 307
and still be good on the highway with the over drive.  The local wrecking
yard has a sign up at the gate that says, rear ends hub to hub $85-$125. I
figure if I can find a donor that might have these ratios it might be worth
the effort.  I know they have ratio codes stamped on the housing on some.
What code would I want to look for and in what  body and year.  Mont* C*rlo
SS, GN, 442, and H/O's all had
3:73's if I under stand correct.  I dont think I want to go that low because
I will still be making a couple 2400 mile trips a year with the car. 

I plan to go back to the yard sunday if all goes right.

Thanks for any clues or ideas.


Clarence
86 Cutlass 4dr 307 o/d 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 11:44:29 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Build Sheet codes

On my Build Sheet, I have two numbers on it that I don't know.
Under the BROADCAST field, it has a field called SEQ. The number is 184.
After the EXTERIOR PAINT field, there is a field labeled PP and the
number is 2. What do these mean? 
- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 13:29:25 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: '63 Starfire convert FS

Not on the list... reply directly to tk63032@navix.net if interested.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date:	Sat, 08 Nov 1997 06:09:44 +0000
From:	Tom Kunkel <tk63032@navix.net>
Organization: Kunkel Bros. Custom Automotive

I have a 1963 Oldsmobile Starfire Convertible. It is complete, 
servicable, running, with little rust. Ready for restoration. It is in 
south central Nebraska. I can transport.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 12:04:38 -0600
From: Thomas & Jodie Martin <tmartin@genevaonline.com>
Subject: Re: 4bbl carbs on '78-87 Cutlass?

I have never seen a factory Chevy V8 Turbo, but I do know that the 301 Turbo
Pontiac V8 was installed into some Z28's.  Seems Chevy was rather embarrased
about the only Z28 not to have a Chevy engine, and hid that fact for many
years.  But it WAS faster that the Z28 with a 350.  For those who want to
look, it is engine code "T", the LU8 engine.  As a matter of fact, the 1980
and 81 Turbo Trans AM even beat the Vette that year down the 1/4mi!  Mine ran
a 14.21 @ 97.3 mph with only a catalytic missing, open aircleaner, 160 degree
thermostat and recurved ignition.  I loved running away from 5.slos!!  I later
melted a piston running a friend and his 428 HO 69 Custom "S", held him from
55 punch to 100 mph, then he smoked me.  I have a 70 400 now.  HO Racing did
make a Turbo kit for the 403 Trans AM, if anyone can find one I would love to
install it on my 350 in my Cutlass!!  

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 15:11:21 -0300
From: Raul Martinez <rmart@satlink.com>
Subject: Need Help identifying my Carb 1966 Delta88

	Looking at my carb I found a circle stamped in the metal with the number 7020715.

	I don't know if this is the famous "tag" and also I can't  identify the carb from the ones listed in the chassis service manual 1966 or the list Chris Witt sent to us of available carbs.

	Please any help is appreciated. Keep in mind my car is an Export version (low compression).

	Regards.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 12:36:41 -0600 (CST)
From: Jeremy Lloyd Elder <jelder1@bigred.unl.edu>
Subject: Re: Tires !

> 
> At 09:18 PM 11/7/97 -0500, you wrote:
> >Gary Manton wrote:
> >> 
> >> Isn't it true that the size closest to 8.50-14 equal to a 235-14 and not a
> >> 225-14.  I know that this is what is on my car now, and the speedometer
> >> cable which runs throught the tire, reads fast, because the wheel is
> smaller
> >> than what it was originally calibrated for.  Do you know of 235-14's
> anywhere?
> >
> >235/14s are not available anywhere as far as I know.  The largest tire I
> >was able to come up with is the Cooper Trendsetter 225/14.  They're a
> >big improvement over the 215/14s that I took off.
> >
> >Paul
> >-- 
> >Paul Hartlieb
> >plh@nbn.net
> >'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
> >'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
> >
> >If it's tourist season, why can't we shoot them?
> >
> 
> Kelly makes a 235-60-14 in their "Charger" line and BF-Goodrich makes a
> 240-60-14 in the Radial T/A's.  Happy tire shopping!
> L. Sylvan Williams
> Bradley College of Electrical Engineering
> 105 Huntington La.
> Blacksburg, Va  24060
> (540)-961-6181
> '68 Cutlass "S"
> 
I've got 245-60-14's on the back of my '86 Cougar.  The closest that 
would fit on the front were Pacemark 70's.  That's how I bought the 
car so they must be out there.

Jeremy Elder
82 Cutlass, 455
86 Cougar, 302

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 14:12:43 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: GEARS

clarence wirtz wrote:
>
> What code would I want to look for and in what  body and year.  Mont* C*rlo
> SS, GN, 442, and H/O's all had
> 3:73's if I under stand correct.  I dont think I want to go that low because
> I will still be making a couple 2400 mile trips a year with the car.

Clarence, be sure to check the ratios!  Some GN's and Monte's had 3.42
gears, right?  I don't knoiw if it makes a difference to you whether you
get a 3.42 or a 3.73 (I'd get the 3.73's!), just a technicality (sp?). 
Also, Monte's didn't have 8.5" rears did they?  They had something like 7
3/8 or 7 5/8 right?  Again, I'm not sure about these points, I'm just
pointing them out so someone else can validate (please)!  Thanks.
_____________________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.erols.com/adcockjk

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 14:12:42 -0500 (EST)
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Dashboard

well pat, the dash pad is gold,but you can dye them any color.   it is off of
a 69 but there the same for both 68-69,  the dash board itself is black and
in good cond. it is a 68 dash board and the ignition for them is in the dash
not the collum.  i didnt see the ing. switch, or the heater controls,  but
they may be there.  am asking 75$ for either one.                   oh!
almost forgot i also have several parts cars 68-72 in case you think of
anything else you need.        one of the 69`s has a nice (black) dashboard
in it.   please reply steven. w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 14:28:29 -0800
From: JFOWLER@capecod.net
Subject: Conv. frame

Is there any way of replacing one of the bolts in the conv. top frame. 
Somebody tried to break into it by ripping the top and trying to pull it
back.  They bent one of the supports and broke one of the bolts.  If
not, how much does a conv. frame go for?  Are there any out there?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 14:37:04 -0500 (EST)
From: JACKSPER@aol.com
Subject: ENGINE PAINT

  Need source to acquire original color engine paint for 1965 olds Dynamic 88

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 13:46:37 -0600 (CST)
From: Rich Meyers <richbmeyers@CCTR.UMKC.EDU>
Subject: radio problem

I recently installed a '95 Camaro radio in my '84 Cutlass and I am having a
problem.  The power supply that runs the memory and the clock seems to be
slowly discharging.  After about 5-10 seconds with the ignition shuts off
everything clears, leaving me to find stations manually ever time I get into
the car.  Everything is hooked up correctly because I bought an adapter from
a Delco dealer.  Everything plugged right in and I thought everything was
great until I shut the ignition off.  What I did was pulled the radio and
checked the power supply with the ignition off and it is slowly discharging.
With the ignition on it pulls 12+ volts but with it off it is very weak and
it slowly discharges enough to render the memory in my radio non-existent.
My battery is good.  Any ideas of what could be the problem?
Also I found a place called Super Shops near where I live that can get
headers for my car for about $85.  He said they were made by Flowtech and
fit my 307.   Oldsmobile Forever!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 12:57:19 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: GEARS

clarence wirtz wrote:
> 
> Does any one know if there is a good donor that might have 3:23 or
> 3:42
> gears that the whole rear end will fit in an 86 Cutlass.  I have been
> What code would I want to look for and in what  body and year.  Mont*
> C*rlo
> SS, GN, 442, and H/O's all had
> 3:73's if I under stand correct.  

My GN has 3.42's

> 86 Cutlass 4dr 307 o/d

- -- 
Charley Buehner         Sidney  Montana
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
81 Cutlass 425     Rockit 1
70 Buick GS455   BT UR 4D
               ... The Heartbeat of America???  It's in my mirror.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 13:04:10 -0700
From: Tim Rudolph <trudolph@frii.com>
Subject: Re: Buzzed

At 02:48 PM 11/7/97 -0800, you wrote:

<snip>

>It's actually going off every time the door is opened, with or without
>the keys in the ignition.  There were three wires that were disconected,
>and I took it for granted that they hooked up to the jamb switch.  I
>know which wire controls the buzzer, any chance this wire goes somewhere
>else?  The car came missing a few odds and ends. 

Well,  looking at the wiring diagram (get one of these, helps a lot), there
should be a black wire and two white wires going into the door jamb switch.
 The black wire goes to the ignition switch and the white wires go to
various lights.  Then at the ignition switch there's of course the black
wire, as well as a wire that is pink w/ double black stripes that goes to
the horn relay/ignition buzzer.  Might be worth a look to look there
somewhere if you can get at it, or check on the horn relay.  Hope that helps.

Tim Rudolph
trudolph@frii.com
'69 442 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 13:02:35 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: 4bbl carbs on '78-87 Cutlass?

Seems Chevy was rather embarrased

Well deserved, I'm sure ;)

  
> HO Racing did make a Turbo kit for the 403 Trans AM, if anyone can >find one I would love to install it on my 350 in my Cutlass!!

I'd always wanted to stumble across one of ~those~ just cuz.  Hmm, a
little more modifications, ya could have ~two~ Turbo 400's in the same
car!  Hmmmm...  ;)
- -- 
Charley Buehner         Sidney  Montana
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
81 Cutlass 425     Rockit 1
70 Buick GS455   BT UR 4D
               ... The Heartbeat of America???  It's in my mirror.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 15:11:31 -0500 (EST)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: 12" Disc brake donor cars for 67 a-body????

What were the donor cars that i would be looking for to put 12" disc brakes
on a 67 a-body??   Also on the donor cars, were 11" std and 12" an option???
just to make sure i find the car and end up w/the wrong stuff.   
 What would i need to get??
 spindles
 rotors
 calipers
 proportion valve
 master cyl
 power booster
Thanks for your help........
Bernie NJ
            

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 13:11:31 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: radio problem

Rich Meyers wrote:
> 
> I recently installed a '95 Camaro radio in my '84 Cutlass and I am
> having a
> problem.  The power supply that runs the memory and the clock seems to
> be
> slowly discharging.  After about 5-10 seconds with the ignition shuts

Must be a ch*vy problem!   ;)  (Kidding!!!)

> With the ignition on it pulls 12+ volts but with it off it is very
> weak and
> it slowly discharges enough to render the memory in my radio
> non-existent.

It sounds like the ~discharge~ is likely occurring from the radio, not
the car. Check the fuses first, look for clock or lighter fuses. Then
try this.  Pull the deck back out (unplug all four harnesses from the
car)  There should be a two conductor plug (depending on brand, will
likely have yellow and orange wires on the adaptor) and should have a
dark brown and an orange wire on the car side of the plug.  With
everything disconnected, check the orange wire on the car side.  That's
your memory lead.  It also feeds the factory clock (if you have one) and
the lighter, as I recall.  Check the lighter, too, to see if it has
power.  Odds are, it's either a fuse or that little two-lead plug is
disconnected.  BTW, that brown lead on the car side has nothing going to
it.  Any more questions, feel free.  Good luck!!!
- -- 
Charley Buehner         Sidney  Montana
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
81 Cutlass 425     Rockit 1
70 Buick GS455   BT UR 4D
               ... The Heartbeat of America???  It's in my mirror.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 13:21:11 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Conv. frame

> Somebody tried to break into it by ripping the top and trying to pull
> it back.  They bent one of the supports and broke one of the bolts.


Ouch!!!!!!!  When ~we~ were kids we at least knew how to use a slim
jim!  Not only are they inconsiderate, they're inexperienced, too. 
Perhaps we need more educational requirements in schools now.  A high
school theft course.  ~Teach~ the kids how to affectively enter a
vehicle without damaging it, then they can take what they need if they
desire.  I'd much rather lose the stereo instead of four windows, a door
frame, eight pieces of trim, a dash panel, ~and~ a stereo!!!  That way,
when they get caught, they can return the equipment or reasonable value,
and/or go to jail.  To this day, If I catch the kid(s) that destroyed my
'83 last year, they'll wind up in the hospital (if not the morgue...) 
Heck, it might even help keep kids in school, too!  

Sorry, venting again!  ;)  Since we're on the theft recovery topic
lately, I'll remention that my '83 is fully complete again, except for a
leaky back glass, and a ripped vinyl top.  My wallet even turned up
about a year later, too.  License and credit cards even still there. 
One ID, and one dollar bill were gone, though...  Hmm... 

Charley Buehner         Sidney  Montana
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
81 Cutlass 425     Rockit 1
70 Buick GS455   BT UR 4D
               ... The Heartbeat of America???  It's in my mirror.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 13:31:56 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Buzzed - better late than never?

Tim Rudolph wrote:
> 
> At 02:48 PM 11/7/97 -0800, you wrote:
> 
> <snip>
> 
> >It's actually going off every time the door is opened, with or
> >without the keys in the ignition.
> >and I took it for granted that they hooked up to the jamb switch.

I'd missed most of this thread, but I'll take a stab at it anyway.  If
the buzzer goes off when the door is open, and not when the door is
closed, then we can safely assume the buzzer ~is~ in fact hooked to the
door switch.  Since it's doing it with no keys, I'd first suspect the
key-in switch.  On most cars (what year are we looking at here?) this
switch links to the rest of the world through that big connector at the
base of the steering column (Got something like 15 wires or so in it?) 
Unplug that big guy (hafta unsnap it from those bracket things at the
bottom of the column first, usually) and ~then~ open the door.  If the
buzzer stopped, it's safe to assume that those contacts have been
damaged, and the switch is toast.  There's a chance it's in the column
wiring, but the switch is the likely culprit.  To change that you need
to pull the steering wheel and the lock plate.  I think you can leave
the turnsignal lever assy. in place, but can't recall for sure.  If
that's not a big deal, we can do some more research to figure which
wires to cut and shut it up...  Easily being the black wire at the
pinswitch (Driver's side's got two sides seperated by a plastic insert,
don't kill the ~white~ side, you'll be left in the dark.)

Try that, then we can go from there...


Charley Buehner         Sidney  Montana
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
81 Cutlass 425     Rockit 1
70 Buick GS455   BT UR 4D
               ... The Heartbeat of America???  It's in my mirror.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 16:00:57 -0500
From: WALKERJIM@webtv.net (Jim Walker)
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #941

- --WebTV-Mail-1448460129-2960
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT

I would sincerely appreciate the group's assistance in helping me locate
a Delta or 98 convertible w/ air conditioning in good running condition
(Old Cars' #3 or better) in the area of Orlando, Florida. My mom very
recently had hip surgery and will not be able to get in and out of my
H*nda CRX. If I have to spend money on a car for her to ride in, I'd at
least like to get something we'll both enjoy. Please reply directly to
me asap. Thanks very much!

- --WebTV-Mail-1448460129-2960
Content-Description: signature
Content-Type: TEXT/HTML; CHARSET=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT

<html> <p align=center>Visit my <a href="http://members.tripod.com/~walkerjim/index.html">homepage</a>! </html>
<html><bgsoundsec="http://members.tripod.com/~webtv18/birdland.mid"></html><html><center><imgsrc="http://members.tripod.com/~davejansen/lavalamp.gif"></center></html>












- --WebTV-Mail-1448460129-2960--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Nov 97 21:42:11 UT
From: "Art Mafale" <Maffuch@classic.msn.com>
Subject: RE: ADMIN: How to Leave Us

Greg,

Please remove my address from your mailing list.
Thank you.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 16:54:30 -0800
From: JFOWLER@capecod.net
Subject: Re: Buzzed - better late than never?

Charley Buehner wrote:
> 
> Tim Rudolph wrote:
> >
> > At 02:48 PM 11/7/97 -0800, you wrote:
> >
> > <snip>
> >
> > >It's actually going off every time the door is opened, with or
> > >without the keys in the ignition.
> > >and I took it for granted that they hooked up to the jamb switch.
> 
> I'd missed most of this thread, but I'll take a stab at it anyway.  If
> the buzzer goes off when the door is open, and not when the door is
> closed, then we can safely assume the buzzer ~is~ in fact hooked to the
> door switch.  Since it's doing it with no keys, I'd first suspect the
> key-in switch.  On most cars (what year are we looking at here?) this
> switch links to the rest of the world through that big connector at the
> base of the steering column (Got something like 15 wires or so in it?)
> Unplug that big guy (hafta unsnap it from those bracket things at the
> bottom of the column first, usually) and ~then~ open the door.  If the
> buzzer stopped, it's safe to assume that those contacts have been
> damaged, and the switch is toast.  There's a chance it's in the column
> wiring, but the switch is the likely culprit.  To change that you need
> to pull the steering wheel and the lock plate.  I think you can leave
> the turnsignal lever assy. in place, but can't recall for sure.  If
> that's not a big deal, we can do some more research to figure which
> wires to cut and shut it up...  Easily being the black wire at the
> pinswitch (Driver's side's got two sides seperated by a plastic insert,
> don't kill the ~white~ side, you'll be left in the dark.)
> 
> Try that, then we can go from there...
> 
> Charley Buehner         Sidney  Montana
> mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
> http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
> 81 Cutlass 425     Rockit 1
> 70 Buick GS455   BT UR 4D
>                ... The Heartbeat of America???  It's in my mirror.
I did unhook the harness at the column and the buzzer stopped.  Could
there be any other possibilites other than the ignition switch?  Also, I
turned on the interior lights and the buzzer went off.  The jamb switch
was out, as well as the keys.  Weird

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #943
********************************

