
oldsmobile-digest      Tuesday, November 4 1997      Volume 01 : Number 937



[none]
Re: (no subject)
Re: australian musle cars?
Re: Oldsmobiles in movies
Re: PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale 
RE: FOR SALE: 66 98 Luxury Sedan
Re: Muscle Car Calendar 1972 Hurst Olds
'66 88 engine hc or lc?
Re: Dash Lights and Clock
New Addition or Uh Oh what has Chris done now
350 forged crank?
wheel 70 98 = 68 Cs?
Re: Edelbrock heads--SEMA
[Fwd: dwehwetnbq]
Re: Oldsmobiles in movies
Re: Suspension Parts
Melbourne Cup.....
Re: Heater
Re: extrusion honing
Re: Hubcaps
need 442 trans swap help
10 bolt VS 12 bolt
Re: New Addition or Uh Oh what has Chris done now
Re: (no subject)
Re: Oldsmobiles in movies
Re: Suspension Parts
Re: Heater
Re: UNBOUNCE: Big Oldsmobiles
Re: PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale 
Re: UNBOUNCE: Trans Swap
Re: Center Link Replacement???
blue cutlass conv in movie
Re: (no subject)
Re: Holley Carb.
Re: Oldsmobiles in movies
Re: Hubcaps
RE: Sams PhotoFact ?
Re: 489 HP 307?
Re: '66 88 engine hc or lc?
Tires
Re: blue cutlass conv in movie
Oldses in Movies
Who wanted to buy my alum. Edelbrock intake?
Tire Size
Seen '66 Toro Limo F/S
Re: Weird block #'s
Re: oops
Re: Tire Size

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 22:21:17 -0500
From: gbro@juno.com (Glenn B Brobeck)
Subject: [none]

Unsubscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 21:48:40 -0500
From: "Eric T. Brubakken" <ebrubak@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: (no subject)

mlstater@mediaone.net wrote:
> 
> Subject:
>             '67 Olds Vista Cruiser
>        Date:
>             Mon, 03 Nov 1997 17:18:22 -0500
>        From:
>             Mark Stater <mlstater@mediaone.net>
> Organization:
>             SuperStock Inc.
>          To:
>             majordomo@ccn.cs.dal.ca
> 
> My grandfather was the original owner.  I've had the car since 1989, and
> have had many minor and several major repairs done to the car.  A new
> carb. was installed about a year ago, and during the past 6 months the
> car has been basically kept in the garage.  Now, it is not running well
> at all.  Starts fine and runs smooth, but after about 10 minutes of
> idling, the engine stalls, and it stalls while driving too.  I think the
> problem is simply with the new carb., and was wondering if there is any
> way I can get info. so I can tinker with it myself.  Can anyone help?
> 
> Thanks for your attention.
> 
> Mark Stater
> Jacksonville, Florida
> e-mail: mlstater@mediaone.net
> Fax: (904) 641-7184
Have you looked at or replaced the fuel filter.  It could be clogged and
have just enought gas to start and run for a few minutes.  Don't forget
about the filter ( sock ) on the pickup tube in the gas tank.  When that
clogs you won't get any fuel to the carb no mater how good your fuel
pump or gas filter are.

To replace the gas tank filter might require removing the gas tank to
gain access to the gas guage sending unit.  The sock is located on the
unit.  If it is clogged you can just remove the sock any everythng will
work.  My Dad removed the one in my 67 Cutlass back in 1969 and I have
not had any problems with fuel supply since.  And yes I sill own the 67
Cutlass, it has had a 455 for the last 20 some years and no fuel
problems.

Eric Brubakken
ebrubak@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 02:46:40 -0800
From: camenz@internet-australia.com (camenz)
Subject: Re: australian musle cars?

Timothy A. Churchill wrote:
> 
> And let us not forget that car that Mel Gibson drove in the
> post-apocalyptic classic "The Road Warriors".  I *think* is was
> a GM product -- is Vauxhall a popular marque Down Under, Glen? --
> and it had a supercharged V8.  Looked real mean.  In the movie,
> one of the characters compliments the car to Mad Max, saying something
> about how it was "the last of the..." something-or-others.  It
> may have been a make unique to Australia.  Hopefully not unique
> to the movie...
> 
> Tim Churchill
> -------------
> '67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
> '89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
> '91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

The car that featured in 'The Road Warriors' was a 1974 XB Ford Falcon
Coupe (unique to Australia) that was modified specifically for the
movie. The engine was a 5.8 litre 351 Clevo (which was standard issue in
these cars) except this particular engine was fully blown. Those famous
words that you couldn't remember are, "The last of the V8 Interceptors".
Although you don't see them much, there are a spinkling of 70's Aussie
Ford Coupes around Australia (even in New Zealand). They are steadily
climbing in value and some fetch up to $40,000. You don't have to look
far though as most go for $5,000 to $10,000. I'll let everyone on the
Olds mailing list know about other aussie muscle cars as soon as I get
all my stats together. 

Glen Camenzuli (1973 Buick Electra Limited 455)
	       (1958 Buick Roadmaster 364)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 22:52:39 -0500 (EST)
From: BMAN6771@aol.com
Subject: Re: Oldsmobiles in movies

car never got restored but woody got a million dollars to endorse condoms
cause he had a "rubber" hand. i thought the movie was very funny but then
again i love bolwing. by the way i belive in the beginning of the movie they
used a 70 convertible in the begining (the nice lookin one) the they switched
to a 72 (the ratty look one) not sure though.

brent
1967 cutlass convertible

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 22:54:09 -0500
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale 

Shayne

        Yes we have the buckets. They are in need of being recovered, but
are in very good shape $100.00 pr. The stick engine is a Rocket 350 and was
rated at 310 hp from the factory. Yes it's a 4 bbl.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts
(757)474-0869 

>>Jim,
>
>>Have any 1970 Black Vinyl buckets for a 1970 Cutlass, or Rallye 350?
>>I am interested in that 1970 350 stick engine. Is it a Rocket 350? How much
>horsepower does it have? Is it a 4bbl carb engine? 
>
>>Shayne Horn
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 22:54:13 -0500
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: RE: FOR SALE: 66 98 Luxury Sedan

At 10:29 AM 10/29/97 -0600, you wrote:
Dan

        The car is gone. Sorry.

Jim Chermack

>hi. do you still have this car? if so, where is it at?
>thanks
>Dan Dale
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 20:03:02 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Muscle Car Calendar 1972 Hurst Olds

Hmm, there is another good one I found at a book store - and there was a
442 or something like that, don't think it was a Hurst though...some really
nice Poncho's and other not normally covered cars.


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser (twin hauler)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 23:12:07 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: '66 88 engine hc or lc?

> From: Edward J. Hufnagel <ejhufnagel@juno.com>
> >   It is a 2 bbl. but how do you tell if it is Hi comp or Low

I've been off the list for a few days, are you asking about a 330 or a
425?  2 bbl usually means low compression, but not always.  Do you have
access to the engine number?
============

I believe the stamping on the front of the RH cylinder head would reveal the
inner nature of the motor. All is revealed... all is revealed... in the
illustrious... FAQ

- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 97 23:13:30 EST
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: Dash Lights and Clock

At 12:52 AM 11/3/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Glenn, I'm glad to hear you got the dash lights working. I tried to fix
>the clock in a '72 Cutlass a couple of years ago. Man, it's incredible how
>they used to do things before quartz! I wish you luck. I had to buy
>magnet wire and re-coil the electro-magnet about fifty-million times.
>Plastic pieces inside of the clock had melted, too, so I wasn't sure how
>it was supposed to work. I could get it to work in the house but something
>would always go wrong when it got into the car. I've never worked with
>anything so fragile! If you get it to work you have my congratulations. As
>far as my stereo, I'm not sure what kind of spark plugs are in the car. I
>just got it about a month ago and I just assumed it was a wiring problem.
>How do I check them to see if they are the right kind? I'm going to put in
>an 8 ohm Radio Shack 4x10 speaker in the front. It's cheap, but I'm sure
>it will sound better than the torn one that's in there now. Thanks for
>your help.


   Hi Pat,

     I was just curious as to the ohms of the speaker. That Radio Shack 4x10
will work great I'm sure.  Usually, a speaker with a low resistance is more
susceptible to line noise so the higher the resistance the better, (8 ohms
is good) although you need more power from the amplifier portion of the
radio to drive it.  
     Most if not all spark plugs sold today are a resistor type plugs. The
designation usually is an 'R' in the plug number such as 14-R.  A Champion
14 would work for such and such motor as would the Champion 14R.  The only
difference would be that the 'R' designation would describe it as being
noise resistant or a resistor plug.  One way to check to see if the ignition
is causing the noise is to set the radio to 1400 on the AM band with the
engine running (usually 1400 is an open band in many areas and will pick up
this type of electrical noise frequency).  If, when you rev the engine, you
are able to hear the pitch in sound change with the revving of the motor,
then ignition noise is definitely the culprit.  Other than using a resistor
type spark plug, plug wires in poor condition can also transmit the same thing. 
    Remember, your radio is a receiver and acts as a magnet to any
electrical frequency within it's cycle range and then takes and magnifies it
through an amplifier that produces electrical energy to the voice coil in
the speaker.
    Oh, BTW, if I had four hands I could fix this clock.  The return or
ground contact was completely broken off of what I would call the rewind
disk/wheel.  I talked to my friend that can pencil solder so I'll hold the
clock and the small piece in place and he will solder it.  The clock
mechanics seem fine.  I can physically rewind it and everything works fine.
Just have to put the electric circuit back together.  Sometimes these things
take more patience than mechanical ability.
    Let me know what you find.  Oh yeah, check your radio and speaker
grounds too.

   
    Glenn
    '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 97 21:54:14 PST
From: "chris smetana" <chris@abcs.com>
Subject: New Addition or Uh Oh what has Chris done now

Well, I did it.  Against my girlfriends wishes and (possibly) my better judgement.  I purchased a 69 442 rolling shell.  It is one of the shells Bob Cline had, so it's from Arizona.  Read little to no rust.  The car is pretty beat and definitely a parts car, even though it was running about a year or two ago.  It was originally white ext, now repainted dark blue with a red interior.  a/c, 4sp, std gauges, non ss wheels (no clips for lug wrench in trunk) p/s and I think it had power brakes.  The master wasn't on the firewall.  The dash is complete.  Most of the chrome is intact.  The trunk floor is MINT.  The rear quarters have a little bit of rust in the corners, nothing a small patch won't fix.  The rear wheel wells are mint.  The hinge panel for the trunk was sold.  The floor pans are rust free, but the pass. front has had a repair done to it at one time.  The firewall is perfect.  Front drums, rear sway bar, but the bar is gone, boxed control arms aren't though :-)  12 bolt rear, not sure of the ratio, but I'm fairly sure not a stock one anymore, I'll explain later.
Basically this car will be donating sheetmetal along with a few other extras to the W-31 and the rest will be up for sale.  I'm almost positive the car was dragraced at one time, as evidenced by the ladder bar mount WELDED to the frame and the torque strape on the front of the frame, which is why I assume the rear gear was probably changed.  Oh and the other weird, stupid thing is, it has a trailer hitch WELDED to the frame.  speaking of the frame, except for these two items, it is PERFECT, but what do you expect from Arizona.  I will be bringing it down from Chicago this weekend and cleaning it up and out.  It comes with a bunch of extra items and plenty of Arizona dirt.  master cyl, hood hinges, hood latch, rear seat, rear int panels, a sub woofer, washer pump, p/s setup many spark plugs laying of the floor, front section of carpet.
If anyone is in need of std guages, p/s setup from an a/c car, dash pad, kick panels let me know.  Or if you want the trailer hitch or ladder bar mount it can be yours too.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
chris@abcs.com

1969 Cutlass W-31
1969 442 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 23:16:20 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: 350 forged crank?

From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: 350 forged crank?

Was looking at a ~'68-9? vintage Olds 350 engine and noted that the back of
the crank had a 'check' like notch like the forged 400-455 engine cranks
have. Could this be a forged crank in a 350?
Other ID info: #5 heads, 4-bbl, dual exhausts, original gold color.

thanx
CoupeKing
=========

Nope, I got all excited the 1st time I saw that, bought the motor [needed its
heads anyhow...], only to find it was a Nodular Iron crank. That part of the
FAQ needs to be updated- who has time?

I would go ahead & say that the ONLY sb forged cranks are the 330 units, but
every time I think I know ALL about some aspect of the Olds motor, along comes
an anomaly like that. In the FAQ part I wrote, at the time I believed that the
only l-notch sb cranks were forged 330 units.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 23:19:00 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: wheel 70 98 = 68 Cs?

I was wondering if the wheel bolt pattern on a '70 98 is the same as on a '68
cu tlass? Thanks Dustin
=======

Doubt it, I believe the Big Car has the Big Bolt Pattern: 5 bolts on 5" circle,
whereas the Cutlass would have a 4.75" bolt circle. They might both have 14"
rims though.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 12:37:55 -0700
From: Dan Lacey <lacey@dsea.com>
Subject: Re: Edelbrock heads--SEMA

>Hey,
>
>Anyone headed to Vegas to the SEMA show?  As I recall, this was supposed to
>be the big intro of the BB Olds aluminum heads.....not sure if they're
>announcing availability, or if it's more of a "look, we've made a prototype,
>we might make more someday" kind of thing.
>
>Appreciate any info that anyone comes up with.
>
>
>
>Mike Evans
>Richland, MI
>evans1@net-link.net

And.... Does anybody know if these will fit ANY 425? I know that there is a
difference between the push-rod angles (Is that it?) between a 455 and the
425 (except the Toro 425 which is like the 455, right?).


*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 23:33:06 -0800
From: Larry Polesnak <bullets@sgi.net>
Subject: [Fwd: dwehwetnbq]

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I do not know anything about this car...it is a friend of a friend..If
you want a photo sent,send a message to  wolfie@sgi.net  and he will 
send you a photo....Larry Polesnak
            6    2    S    T    A    R    F    I    R   E

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Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 22:14:31 -0500
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible
59,000 Miles. 350 4V Rocket Engine.
Bucket Seats and Console.
New: Antique Cream Paint, Stainless Steel Brake Lines, 
Stainless Steel Fuel Lines, Brakes, Wheel Cylinders, 
Master Cylinder, Ball Joints, Controll Arm Bushings, 
Tie Rod Ends, Front Springs, Rear Springs, Front Shocks, 
Rear Shocks. Engine and Carburator Rebuilt. TH 400 Automatic
Transmission Rebuilt, Rear End Checked and all New Seals Installed.
$4,000 OBO Ed Jeke 1 (412) 223-9189 Washington, PA
- -- 
                  ___________________________________
                  International Order of Old Bastards
                Amateur Radio Station: N3UE    ex/N3WUE
           ARRL VE, BreezeShooter, 10X, SCI, SATERN, Skywarn
     BreezeShooters web site at  http://www.users.sgi.net/~wolfie/
   NA40+ web site at  http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/3851/

- --------------54FA33432F2A--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 13:42:34 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobiles in movies

DAVID BETZ wrote:
> 
> Its good to see Everett is keeping Oldsmobile history alive on screen.
> I
> was just watching "Kingpin"

I Know What You Did Last Summer...

Sweet 71(?) Cutlass ragtop pulling a float in a parade.  Bright red. 
Nice rumble of exhaust.  I was happy...

Charley Buehner

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 12:56:22 -0700
From: Dan Lacey <lacey@dsea.com>
Subject: Re: Suspension Parts

Well... I don't have all the answers, but I know TRW makes replacement
springs for these cars (they had them for my '65 98, which some shops said
didn't exist...).

MOOG has progressive style springs that maintain the original ride height,
but get progressively stiffer as they are compressed.

As a price point, the rear springs on my 98 cost about $115 from PepBoys. I
was just told the MOOG springs would cost $180!! This is GoodYear garage,
so, this price is HIGHLY inflated. I still have to research this at a parts
mega-store. Well....Let's just call PepBoys now. This should be
interesting...  Shoot! I should'a known, they have to call me back...

I am trying to get Energy Suspensions to put together a front-end bushing
kit in PolyGraphite for me. Anybody else interested in these for a C
body??? They already have kits for the 442 and Cutlusai. No demand so far
for the C bodies... BUT, if I generate demand...

This is the same company that makes the bushings for Performance Suspension
Technologies and others.

*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 03:28:33 -0800
From: camenz@internet-australia.com (camenz)
Subject: Melbourne Cup.....

G'day to all you Olds fans!!!

The Melbourne Cup has just run here down under......here are the results

First - Might and Power
Second - Doriemus
Third - Linesman

Good luck to all of you who had a punt!!

Glen Camenzuli (1973 Buick Electra Limited 455)
	       (1958 Buick Roadmaster 364)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 23:38:03 -0800
From: Larry Polesnak <bullets@sgi.net>
Subject: Re: Heater

Patrick Rose wrote:
> 
>         My heater isn't working right. I was driving the car for a long
 Hi Pat ,if the water is low in the radiator you will get cold air
instead of heat...Larry Polesnak
         6    2    S    T    A    R    F    I    R    E

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 00:55:34 -0800
From: Greg Pruett <grpruett@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: extrusion honing

Greg Pruett wrote:
> 
> Chris Brown Witt wrote:

> > Dang, $2000 for an engine! Assuming that's not PER HEAD co$t there...
> >
> > Gets me to wondering:
> > 2) I bet we can design a simple system to do the same thing: use low pressure,
> > rubber impeller centrifugal pump, abrasive slurry, take longer, but require no
> > babysitting anyhow. Let her run for a week or three. Angela came up with the
> > perfect analogy: like waves & sand polish rocks & glass shards at the beach.
> > Rubber pumps hold up quite well to abrasive slurries.
> 
> Hmmm.  Ever see a water pump from an old washing machine?  I've got one
> that looks like it has a rubber case, and it's looks to work just like
> the water pump off an engine.  Maybe the impeller is rubber or plastic
> too, I never checked.  Whaddya think?  This might be worth a shot.

Wait!  I have another idea!  How about a hydraulic cylinder made of
PVCpipe and some sort of piston running in it.  Instead of pumping a
stream of abrasive through, push it out the cylinder though the manifold
then suck it back though the manifold and back into the cylinder.  No
valves, bearings, or anything expensive like that to get chewed up by
the abrasive goop.  When the PVC pipe wears out just replace it for $5. 
The piston could be cut out of wood if absolutely neccesary, we're not
talking about anything that has to stand up to much pressure.  The seal
on the piston could be a cheap hardware store rubber O-ring or maybe
even silocone caulk.  At any rate, the parts could be sacrificial, and
cheap.  Even if it cost you $30 per manifold, you're still way ahead if
it works.  You could use an electric motor(maybe drill attatchment?)
with some type of crank arrangement to run it.  The same way a steam
engine's wheels are hooked to the pistons.  It couldn't spin very fast,
and you'd have to chain the contraption to the wall to keep it from
jitterbugging out the garage and down the street, it would vibrate like
hell without a counterbalance.  Then again, if you built two, you could
race them. :)  

Just some food for thought.  I have no idea how well it would work. But
you're right Chris, we oughta be able to build one of these thigamajigs
cheaper than it costs to have it done.  

 Greg Pruett
`72 Vista Cruiser
`67 Cutlass supreme
`80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 23:42:20 -0800
From: Larry Polesnak <bullets@sgi.net>
Subject: Re: Hubcaps

Paul Hartlieb wrote:
> 
> John Pajak wrote:
> 
> >      The current 215/75R14 tires are too short! I wish someone made a
> > TALL 14" radial! Please! Or I'll have to use the 15" wheels.
> 
> John,
> 
 Iwent to a 15" rim on my 1962 STARFIRE works great..Look at my web page
you'll see a photo   LARRY

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 23:53:17 -0500 (EST)
From: DDMRACER@aol.com
Subject: need 442 trans swap help

Hi all:
        am kinda new to oldsmobiles having been more of a camaro and
chevelle guy but i recently bought a '72 442. as close as i can tell, it
was a 350 4spd car. a previous owner changed it over to a th350 
auto. the only straight shift parts left on the car are the brake pedal,
crank bell pivot ball, clutch pedal linkage boot on the firewall and
the shifter hump. what i need is info on where to get the stuff to 
change it back. how much of this stuff will interchange with other
GM "A" bodies? does anyone on the list want to do some trading?
i will have a nice console and shifter (non dual gate) up for grabs.
Thanks

duane 
72 442
67 ss chevelle
67 ss camaro

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 22:54:08 -0600
From: "Richard Fuqua" <fuqua@swbell.net>
Subject: 10 bolt VS 12 bolt

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Hi all,

    Well I know the obivous but just for conversation sake.  I have a =
'69 442 with a '72 455 engine and turbo 400 trans the rear end has been =
difficult to identify..yes I know look for the letter stampings, I =
have...several times..and I'll look again, but for now the rear end is a =
10 bolt posi variety(I suspect the entire drive train came from a '72 =
olds).

    I have a newly rebuilt m-22 I'm getting ready to install (car was =
orginally standard).  15" wheels to run on.  My qustions follow all =
comments and suggestions welcome
a.. 10 bolt vs 12 bolt diff. is it worth the expense to change over?
    b.. what gear ratios would apply, and with what results?
    c.. any thoughts about differential I have now
    Thanks,
Richard Fuqua
fuqua@swbell.net=20
'69 442


- ------=_NextPart_000_0036_01BCE8AB.646F5200
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Hi all,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Well I know the =
obivous but=20
just for conversation sake.&nbsp; I have a '69 442 with a '72 455 engine =
and=20
turbo 400 trans the rear end has been difficult to identify..yes I know =
look for=20
the letter stampings, I have...several times..and I'll look again, but =
for now=20
the rear end is a 10 bolt posi variety(I suspect the entire drive train =
came=20
from a '72 olds).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I have a newly =
rebuilt m-22=20
I'm getting ready to install (car was orginally standard).&nbsp; =
15&quot; wheels=20
to run on.&nbsp; My qustions follow all comments and suggestions=20
welcome</FONT></DIV>
<UL>
    <LI><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>10 bolt vs 12 bolt diff. is it =
worth the=20
    expense to change over?</FONT></LI>
    <LI><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>what gear ratios would apply, and =
with what=20
    results?</FONT></LI>
    <LI><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>any =
thoughts about=20
    differential I have now</FONT></LI></UL>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Richard Fuqua</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:fuqua@swbell.net">fuqua@swbell.net</A> </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>'69 442</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0036_01BCE8AB.646F5200--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 20:49:56 -0800 (PST)
From: Chuck Martin <shortyg442@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: New Addition or Uh Oh what has Chris done now

- ---chris smetana <chris@abcs.com> wrote:
>
> Well, I did it.  Against my girlfriends wishes and
(possibly) my better judgement.  I purchased a 69 442
rolling shell.  It is one of the shells Bob Cline
had, so it's from Arizona.  Read little to no rust. 
The car is pretty beat and definitely a parts car,
even though it was running about a year or two ago. 
It was originally white ext, now repainted dark blue
with a red interior.  a/c, 4sp, std gauges, non ss
wheels (no clips for lug wrench in trunk) p/s and I
think it had power brakes.  The master wasn't on the
firewall.  The dash is complete.  Most of the chrome
is intact.  The trunk floor is MINT.  The rear
quarters have a little bit of rust in the corners,
nothing a small patch won't fix.  The rear wheel
wells are mint.  The hinge panel for the trunk was
sold.  The floor pans are rust free, but the pass.
front has had a repair done to it at one time.  The
firewall is perfect.  Front drums, rear sway bar, but
the bar is gone, boxed control arms aren't though :-)
 12 bolt rear, not sure of the ratio, but I'm fairly
sure not a stock one anymore, I'll explain later.
> Basically this car will be donating sheetmetal
along with a few other extras to the W-31 and the
rest will be up for sale.  I'm almost positive the
car was dragraced at one time, as evidenced by the
ladder bar mount WELDED to the frame and the torque
strape on the front of the frame, which is why I
assume the rear gear was probably changed.  Oh and
the other weird, stupid thing is, it has a trailer
hitch WELDED to the frame.  speaking of the frame,
except for these two items, it is PERFECT, but what
do you expect from Arizona.  I will be bringing it
down from Chicago this weekend and cleaning it up and
out.  It comes with a bunch of extra items and plenty
of Arizona dirt.  master cyl, hood hinges, hood
latch, rear seat, rear int panels, a sub woofer,
washer pump, p/s setup many spark plugs laying of the
floor, front section of carpet.
> If anyone is in need of std guages, p/s setup from
an a/c car, dash pad, kick panels let me know.  Or if
you want the trailer hitch or ladder bar mount it can
be yours too.
> 
> Chris Smetana
> Terre Haute, IN
> chris@abcs.com
> 
> 1969 Cutlass W-31
> 1969 442 parts car
> plus others
> 
> Hey chris i might be interested in that ladder bar
for my 442. I used to drag at orangeburg and Atlanta
speedway. Just recently dropped the axle and swapped
axles with this other 442 enthus. Had a Chevy 4.10
Swapped and went with a 2.56 limited slip I miss the
positive tracking but the other gear is good for top
end driving on the interstate. does a 100 easy and
still have more pedal to go. Used to run straight
nitrous so please slow drivers out there keep right.


chuck

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 21:06:43 -0800 (PST)
From: Chuck Martin <shortyg442@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: (no subject)

- ---"Eric T. Brubakken" <ebrubak@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>
> mlstater@mediaone.net wrote:
> > 
> > Subject:
> >             '67 Olds Vista Cruiser
> >        Date:
> >             Mon, 03 Nov 1997 17:18:22 -0500
> >        From:
> >             Mark Stater <mlstater@mediaone.net>
> > Organization:
> >             SuperStock Inc.
> >          To:
> >             majordomo@ccn.cs.dal.ca
> > 
> > My grandfather was the original owner.  I've had
the car since 1989, and
> > have had many minor and several major repairs
done to the car.  A new
> > carb. was installed about a year ago, and during
the past 6 months the
> > car has been basically kept in the garage.  Now,
it is not running well
> > at all.  Starts fine and runs smooth, but after
about 10 minutes of
> > idling, the engine stalls, and it stalls while
driving too.  I think the
> > problem is simply with the new carb., and was
wondering if there is any
> > way I can get info. so I can tinker with it
myself.  Can anyone help?
> > 
> > Thanks for your attention.
> > 
> > Mark Stater
> > Jacksonville, Florida
> > e-mail: mlstater@mediaone.net
> > Fax: (904) 641-7184
> Have you looked at or replaced the fuel filter.  It
could be clogged and
> have just enought gas to start and run for a few
minutes.  Don't forget
> about the filter ( sock ) on the pickup tube in the
gas tank.  When that
> clogs you won't get any fuel to the carb no mater
how good your fuel
> pump or gas filter are.
> 
> To replace the gas tank filter might require
removing the gas tank to
> gain access to the gas guage sending unit.  The
sock is located on the
> unit.  If it is clogged you can just remove the
sock any everythng will
> work.  My Dad removed the one in my 67 Cutlass back
in 1969 and I have
> not had any problems with fuel supply since.  And
yes I sill own the 67
> Cutlass, it has had a 455 for the last 20 some
years and no fuel
> problems.
> 
> Eric Brubakken
> ebrubak@ix.netcom.com
> 
> try the sock trick and if it still stalls you might
want to adjust you carb a little. maybe adjusting the
idle and the fuel mixture.inspect the fuel filter as
recommended by eric.
chuck 69olds cutlass
      70olds cutlass
      olds part carand many extras. willing to make a
swap.


> 

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 00:09:25 -0500 (EST)
From: Patrick Rose <prose@email.unc.edu>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobiles in movies

On Mon, 3 Nov 1997 BMAN6771@aol.com wrote:

> car never got restored but woody got a million dollars to endorse condoms
> cause he had a "rubber" hand. i thought the movie was very funny but then
> again i love bolwing. by the way i belive in the beginning of the movie they
> used a 70 convertible in the begining (the nice lookin one) the they switched
> to a 72 (the ratty look one) not sure though.
> 
> brent
> 1967 cutlass convertible
> 
Yeah, I noticed the difference between the two cars. I think the '70
Cutlass was a 442 and the '72 wasn't. Did you notice the '72 Vista Crusier
in Eraser? My friends and I couldn't stop laughing because they show
the car right after the guy says "burns about as much oil as it does gas."
I was having some problems with my '72 cutlass at the time. I saw a 442
Vista Crusier advertised in Dallas one time. If I had only had the cash to
buy that. I could fit...like...ten girls in there. ;)


Pat

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 21:34:32 -0700
From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Subject: Re: Suspension Parts

>I am trying to get Energy Suspensions to put together a front-end bushing
>kit in PolyGraphite for me. Anybody else interested in these for a C
>body??? They already have kits for the 442 and Cutlusai. No demand so far
>for the C bodies... BUT, if I generate demand...

Dan,
Count me in for a set of polygraphite so long as they don't squeak and are
not wildly pricey. Write to Bryce too. He has that 66 88 apprehender cop
car which would need the same front end bushings. He's got the performance
bug in a way. Lisa too with her 67 ought to be a candidate. Starfire owners
from 65-66 too, plus the Dynamic and Delta 88 owners from those years.
Mebbe even a P*ntiac Cat*lina or C*ddy or B*ick El*ctra. Should be a market
here. Poll Fusick and see if they'd retail 'em. Or Brothers.

One good question though: will these components put new and undue stress on
old metal parts like A-arms? If so, I may be a bit reticent, having broken
my lower
one on each side over the years (scary, yes, but both times at 25 mph!).
Also I'm curious if they have a solution for out of round (from wear)
bushing holes in the arms (front or rear) that go klunk in the night.

Long live the big cars!
cf

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 00:40:55 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Heater

Patrick Rose wrote:
>
> I do have A/C. Are the vaccum lines those little black hoses that connect
> into the back of the dashboard switch? Do I check those by making sure
> they're not blocked by something? I'm also not sure where the intake
> manifold is, sorry. Could you just be a little more specific? I haven't
> worked with this before.
> 
> Thanks,
> Pat

Hey, Pat.  I don't think I can help on the original post, but as for
identifying under-hood parts:

First of all, the vacuum lines are all the little black rubber hoses that
connect EVERYTHING!  I don't know the specific year of your particular
application, but if you have the air cleaner that will vent warm air to the
engine when cold, the Thermac air cleaner, then there are vacuum hoses to
the air cleaner.  The carburetor will have several vacuum hoses associated
with it.  If you have cruise control, etc...just be sure to check all the
little 1/4" rubber hoses under the hood.

The intake manifold sits in top of the engine; the carburetor mounts to
that.  If you took the carburetor off, the intake manifold, or intake for
short, would look lik an octopus, with the carburetor mount in the center
and eight "arms" coming off of the center, four to each head.  These are
the intake ports, which supply each cylinder with the air/fuel mixture
which is then ignited.  The intake basically feeds the engine with fuel and
air and many parts are mounted to it.  The best thing to do, at the least,
is get a Chilton's manual, or similar, that has a detailed diagram of the
engine and its related components, so you can identify all the parts
easily.

Good luck and hope this helps a little... 
_____________________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.erols.com/adcockjk

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 00:43:31 -0500
From: "DAVID  BETZ" <dbetz@netwalk.com>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Big Oldsmobiles

- ----------
> From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Big Oldsmobiles
> Date: Monday, November 03, 1997 1:08 AM
> 
> >the bigger the better (snip)
> 
> Typical guy!
> 
> Lisa Madsen
> Anaheim, CA
> 
In terms of Oldsmobiles (as well as women).

**note** Olds content included.

Dave Betz
1972 Delta 88 convt.
1978 98 2 door

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 23:10:26 -0700 (MST)
From: bhorn@tnc.com (Beverley Horn)
Subject: Re: PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale 

>Shayne
>
>        Yes we have the buckets. They are in need of being recovered, but
>are in very good shape $100.00 pr. The stick engine is a Rocket 350 and was
>rated at 310 hp from the factory. Yes it's a 4 bbl.
>
>Jim Chermack
>C&M Classic Parts
>(757)474-0869 
>
>>>Jim,

Where are u located? and how much would you estimate it would cost to ship
the engine to Canada? (Alberta to be exact)?

Shayne Horn
1970 Rallye 350
1985 442
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 01:39:31 EST
From: Cnvrtbl442 <Cnvrtbl442@aol.com>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Trans Swap

In a message dated 97-11-03 04:08:02 EST, you write:

<< On Sun, 2 Nov 1997 12:59:50 -0500 (EST) Cnvrtbl442@aol.com writes:
 >In a message dated 97-11-02 07:12:03 EST, you write:
 >
 ><< The transmission will be a 200-R4 and I think the OD ratio is .67.  
 >If
 > this is correct then if I install a 4.11 ring & pinion would the 
 >final
 > ratio be 2.51?
 >  >>
 >4..11 times .67 comes out to 2.76
 >
 
           If you ask me, I would say the final ratio would be 4.11.
 Changing the gears in the trani doesn't change the fact that the pinion
 gear has to turn 4.11 times to turn the ring gear once.
           I was always taught that the higher gears in the trani saved on
 the high rpm's on the engine thereby creating better mpg.
          Someone correct me if my way of thinking is wrong please.
  >>

The way I have always seen and understood this is the way I was 
taught.  Since the rear end is a "fixed" gear unit it will always turn at
a 4.11 to 1 ratio.  This means that the driveshaft will turn 4.11 times
for every one rotation of the wheels.  When a transmission is in a 
1 to 1 mode the motor willthen turn 4.11 times for every turn of the wheels.

If a car has a first gear that is 3.0 to 1 then you multiply this number by
the rear end ratio to get the "effective" drive ratio in that gear which
would be 3 times 4.11 our a total of 12.33 to 1 or 12.33 turns of the engine
for every rotation of the wheels and axles.

When you then put an overdrive into the scenario what happens is the
output shaft on the tranny no longer turns one to one with the driveshaft.
If the tranny turns .67 times for every turn of the drive shaft this means
that the motor also only turns .67 turns for every turn of the driveshaft.
So we now multiply this number into the equation.  Bottom line is a 4.11
is a 4.11 and its  physically fixed there.  However the relationship to 
engine RPM is changed.  Just remember that a rearend with  4.11 with
 an overdrive that comes out to 2.76 will be spinning faster than a 2.76.

Dont think anybody would want to try to go 200 mph with a 5.13 and 
a massive overdrive.  But if ya do ya might want a "tach" for the 
DRIVESHAFT!!!.......lol..........:-0      TIM

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 23:40:54 -0500
From: Lloyd Ferguson <cutlass69@usa.net>
Subject: Re: Center Link Replacement???

>In the spirit of the recent talk about 160 mph 307Ys, I figured, that for
>safety
>sake, I ought to replace the center link on my 350 powered '70 Cutlass
>before I
>make an attempt at the Land speed record.  I figured I ought to be able to
>do it
>at about 3 AM on a straight section of the 405 (San Diego Freeway).  I'll keep
>you guys posted.
>
>Anyway, I noticed that the knuckle which attaches the centerlink to my
>steering
>arm (pitman arm?) has a bit of play in it.  None of the other knuckles
>seeme to
>have much play,  so I head off down to the autoparts store to pick up a center
>link (TRW), $57 (US).  After removing the 4 cotter pins and nuts, I start
>whaling away at the joints with a hammer and pickle fork.  The two inner tie
>rods poped right out when I smacked the end of the bolt with the hammer
>directly.  The steering arm and idler arm joints have the bolts pointing up at
>the engine compartment so I jammed the pickle fork into the joint(s) and
>started
>whaling away.  It didn't happen.  after a half hour of banging away, the seals
>on the joits were trashed but the joint refused to budge.  I reassembled
>everything and called it quits.
>
>What am I doing wrong?
>
>The pickle fork doesn't seem to be taking a "bite" into the joint.
>
>The goal is to wedge the tapered bolt out by jamming the fork between the
>centerlink and the idler arm, causing the tapered bolt on the centerlink
>knuckle
>to pop out of the taperd hole in the idler arm, right?
>
>I'm using a regular hardware store hammer.  Do I need a bigger one?
>
>I went to two autoparts stores looking for another tool.  Both places said a
>pickle fork should do the job.  The ones they had seemed identical in size and
>shape to the one I have?
>
>Is all this banging away on my steering box arm going to damage my
>steering box?
>
>
>hans

I am far from being an expert on this but I took my Riviera in to get the
pitman and ider arms replaced a couple of months ago and ended up telling
the mechanic how to do it mainly because I had read the book before hand.

Basically, unless you are very careful and the boots are almost new, using
the pickle fork will tend to rip up the rubber pieces which is probably why
I have never seen one in any of the GM manuals. As you seem to be from
California, Trak Auto will lend you a Pitman Arm Puller which can usually
be used to pop the other suspension knuckles apart.  I have a little tool
that I bought when I lived in Canada that slips under the rubber boot and
uses lever action to break the joints free, works very well but I have not
seen one down here.

Something that took me a while to figure out on my pickle fork is that it
has one side that is flat and the other that is wedge shaped.  It works
best if you put the wedged side toward the piece that you are trying to
move.

BTW I think you can buy replacement boots from Energy Suspension, saves
replacing the whole joint.


Lloyd Ferguson
cutlass69@usa.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 23:17:45 -0800
From: Curtis Ratica <ratica@knowware.net>
Subject: blue cutlass conv in movie

If my memory serves me correctly,

There was a beautiful blue cutlass convert
in the movie "Brady Bunch, The movie"

Anybody see it?  I believe it was a '70
model.  not sure though... need to see
it again...

Curtis Ratica

'70 Cutlass conv. 350 (blue/white)
'90 Bronco EB 351

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 06:36:15 -0500
From: mlstater@mediaone.net
Subject: Re: (no subject)

Eric T. Brubakken wrote:
> 
> mlstater@mediaone.net wrote:
> >
> > Subject:
> >             '67 Olds Vista Cruiser
> >        Date:
> >             Mon, 03 Nov 1997 17:18:22 -0500
> >        From:
> >             Mark Stater <mlstater@mediaone.net>
> > Organization:
> >             SuperStock Inc.
> >          To:
> >             majordomo@ccn.cs.dal.ca
> >
> > My grandfather was the original owner.  I've had the car since 1989, and
> > have had many minor and several major repairs done to the car.  A new
> > carb. was installed about a year ago, and during the past 6 months the
> > car has been basically kept in the garage.  Now, it is not running well
> > at all.  Starts fine and runs smooth, but after about 10 minutes of
> > idling, the engine stalls, and it stalls while driving too.  I think the
> > problem is simply with the new carb., and was wondering if there is any
> > way I can get info. so I can tinker with it myself.  Can anyone help?
> >
> > Thanks for your attention.
> >
> > Mark Stater
> > Jacksonville, Florida
> > e-mail: mlstater@mediaone.net
> > Fax: (904) 641-7184
> Have you looked at or replaced the fuel filter.  It could be clogged and
> have just enought gas to start and run for a few minutes.  Don't forget
> about the filter ( sock ) on the pickup tube in the gas tank.  When that
> clogs you won't get any fuel to the carb no mater how good your fuel
> pump or gas filter are.
> 
> To replace the gas tank filter might require removing the gas tank to
> gain access to the gas guage sending unit.  The sock is located on the
> unit.  If it is clogged you can just remove the sock any everythng will
> work.  My Dad removed the one in my 67 Cutlass back in 1969 and I have
> not had any problems with fuel supply since.  And yes I sill own the 67
> Cutlass, it has had a 455 for the last 20 some years and no fuel
> problems.
> 
> Eric Brubakken
> ebrubak@ix.netcom.com


Hey Eric:

Thanks for the info.  It all sounds logical.  I'll look into the fuel
filter thing first.  FYI, Last year I had the gas tank removed and had
it "coated" (or something like that) on the inside.  Apparently the tank
had a lot of crud that would get sucked up into the carb and foul
everything up.  I was driving the car for a few years and never letting
it go below half a tank so as not to draw up any of the junk that was in
the gas tank. 

Does anyone know where I can get a good repair manual so I can begin to
work on this beast myself? 

MLS

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 06:59:15 -0500 (EST)
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: Holley Carb.

In a message dated 97-11-03 05:04:39 EST, you write:

> thats the only kind of 650 Holley makes


not true,  i have a 650 vacuum secondary.  it's a hell of a carb.  most guys
like 2 shooters, but i like only one.  it is more fuel efficient and with a
little spring work you'll never know the difference.
mikey tvb@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 07:15:28 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobiles in movies

DAVID BETZ wrote:
> 
> Its good to see Everett is keeping Oldsmobile history alive on screen.  I
> was just watching "Kingpin" with Woody Harrelson and Randy Quaid filmed in

There's a '69 Cutlass in the movie Dazed and Confused. I think one of
the cops has a 73 also. Can't ever get a good look.

- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 04:37:20 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: Hubcaps

- ---Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net> wrote:
 John,
Have you thought about the Cooper 225/14?  These cars really need a 235,
but I put the 225s on my Ninety Eight back in the Spring and they are a
big improvement over the 215s.  And their reasonably priced.

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I didn't know 225/14 were still available.......Thanks! I might give
them a try if all else fails. I could always use the 215s on one of
the Cutlasses.

===
John Pajak                            JSPajak@rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland  HTTP://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

65 Delta 88 2dr    70 Cutlass S 2dr       72 Cutlass conv   
66 Toronado deluxe 70 Cutlass S W31       72 Delta 88 conv
69 Cutlass S 2dr   70 442 W30 conv        72 442 W30 conv 
70 Cutlass S 2dr   71 Cutlass Supreme 2dr 86 Cutlass Supreme
 
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 07:45:27 -0500
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: RE: Sams PhotoFact ?

On Monday, November 03, 1997 9:32 PM, cm_hawk@juno.com
[SMTP:cm_hawk@juno.com] wrote:
> Bobby,
> What is the Sams PhotoFact set?  I have a old radio that has the
Wonder
> Bar
> (Seek and Scan).  I have been looking for Schematics or any repair
> manuals.
>

The PhotoFact set is the schematics, alignment procedures, and circuit
board layout that is used to repair the radio. I have the ones for the
1970 and 1971 radios. The sets are listed by model number and year. What
model number and year are you looking for?  I have a source that I can
check to see if they have them.


Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the.....Past

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 08:02:46 -0500 (EST)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: 489 HP 307?

In a message dated 97-11-03 16:48:03 EST, you write:

<< lso, I am no expert in aerodynamics, but I would be absolutely amazed if a
 little 307 was adequate to propel a G body to anywhere near 200MPH, let
 alone 300MPH.  If the engine is in a streamliner, it is quite possible, but
 in a regular car, I doubt it.
  >>
They did race these in NASCAR>>>>>>anyone have pics of any olds in
action......?? plz let me know
Bernie..rcktpwr@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 08:15:27 EST
From: ejhufnagel@juno.com (Edward J. Hufnagel)
Subject: Re: '66 88 engine hc or lc?

>I believe the stamping on the front of the RH cylinder head would 
>reveal the
>inner nature of the motor. All is revealed... all is revealed... in 
>the
>illustrious... FAQ
>
>Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca 
>[Lansing, MI]
>*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
>


      I have been to the FAQ and checked according to it, but, alas, the
pad at the front of the right head is as bare and smooth as a newborn
baby's a**. Apparently a head job (at minimum) was done at one time in
the life of this beast. Are the heads interchangable between left and
right sides? Maybe they were crossed when reasembled?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 05:17:50 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Tires

Larry, what size tires are on your 62 Starfire?

Thanks!

===
John Pajak                            JSPajak@rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland  HTTP://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

65 Delta 88 2dr    70 Cutlass S 2dr       72 Cutlass conv   
66 Toronado deluxe 70 Cutlass S W31       72 Delta 88 conv
69 Cutlass S 2dr   70 442 W30 conv        72 442 W30 conv 
70 Cutlass S 2dr   71 Cutlass Supreme 2dr 86 Cutlass Supreme




_____________________________________________________________________
Sent by RocketMail. Get your free e-mail at http://www.rocketmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 08:21:06 -0500 (EST)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: blue cutlass conv in movie

In a message dated 97-11-04 02:26:15 EST, you write:

<< 
 Anybody see it?  I believe it was a '70
 model.  not sure though... need to see
 it again...
  >>
dont forget the green 2-door cutlass in smokey and the bandit" when  justice
walks out of the dinner w/the toilet paper(chevy stationary) stuck to his
glasses.

Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 05:26:34 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Oldses in Movies

     I remember seeing a movie preview on Cinemax a while back showing
a 69 Cutlass (?) exploding. I didn't catch the name of the movie. 
     I also remember seeing (a long time ago) a movie in which a 69
442 gets beat up with sticks or bats.

Has anyone seen these 2 flicks? 

===
John Pajak                            JSPajak@rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland  HTTP://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

65 Delta 88 2dr    70 Cutlass S 2dr       72 Cutlass conv   
66 Toronado deluxe 70 Cutlass S W31       72 Delta 88 conv
69 Cutlass S 2dr   70 442 W30 conv        72 442 W30 conv 
70 Cutlass S 2dr   71 Cutlass Supreme 2dr 86 Cutlass Supreme



- ---RCKTPWR@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 97-11-04 02:26:15 EST, you write:
> 
> << 
>  Anybody see it?  I believe it was a '70
>  model.  not sure though... need to see
>  it again...
>   >>
> dont forget the green 2-door cutlass in smokey and the bandit" when 
justice
> walks out of the dinner w/the toilet paper(chevy stationary) stuck
to his
> glasses.
> 
> Bernie
> 

_____________________________________________________________________
Sent by RocketMail. Get your free e-mail at http://www.rocketmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 08:26:19 -0500
From: Ken <olds442@en.com>
Subject: Who wanted to buy my alum. Edelbrock intake?

With a small puff of smoke and a groan my computer said fairwell last
week.  Now that I've replaced it I'm looking for the guy who wanted to
buy the 04B intake I have for sale.  Send me some mail so we can get the
deal done.. 

Thanks,
olds442@en.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 07:49:54 -0600
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: Tire Size

I know this has probably been asked, but I never saw the reply.

I have a 1985 Cutlass Supreme, I wish to put larger tires on, but I am
not sure if I should keep the stock 14 in rims, or should I find the 15
in wheels from the B-Cars and go with those wire caps and larger tires.
Or the 70's 15in Rally wheels.  I just want better handling, and I don't
know if the 14's are really the best for that.  This is still a daily
driver, so I can't afford to go with NOS rims or something.  No
aftermarket.  Want to keep it looking stock.

Did the 80's 442's come with 15's?  I would suspect 215 65 R15's, as GM
was rather find of them those years (GN and Monte SS).  

I would like to put a 225 to 245's on just for the looks and improved
handling.  I still want to keep it as short as the factory tire, for the
speedo and the 2.14 gears sake.  (Don't need to make 2.14's WORSE!)
Stock size was 195 75 R14.  It has 205 75 R14 now, and it looks better
with them.

Thanks!
Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Nov 97 08:59:10 -0500
From: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
Subject: Seen '66 Toro Limo F/S

Dang, this ought to get the Toroheads spinning!
Just saw in the Oct 97 "Auto/Truck Round-Up Monthly" this ad:

'66 TORONADO DE'ELEGANCE Limo.  custom built, one-of-a-kind, George Barris 
custom, sunroof, TV, bar, divider window, tape deck, 40k $15,000  
517-349-1516 Okemos, MI

WHY WASN'T THIS CAR IN LANSING!!! (or was it there and I missed it)
The picture shows the car 3/4 front view IN A GARAGE! It is a light color, 
probably silver, w/ a dark vinyl top.

A piece of Olds history on the blocks!

 ---
| | | Brad Nicholson
| | | 1987 442 W-42
|/|\| 1994 Eighty Eight LSS
| | | Oldsmobile Club of America #18984
 ---  Oldsmobile Centennial Club - Newest Chapter of OCA
(W) brad.nicholson@ssa.gov   (H) brad442@erols.com
OCC Web Page - http://www.erols.com/brad442/occ
OCA Web Page - http://www.erols.com/brad442/oca

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Nov 97 09:51:19 -0500
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: Weird block #'s

Chris  B. Witt asked:

Anybody else stumble across such a numbering scheme? Maybe it was a boat motor 
or something?

     
     Chris,
     
     I suspect you are correct in assuming this is a marine motor.  I have 
     two 455 marine blocks in the basement, numbered as follows:
     
                        *L4E                       *L2E
                        05304C                     3135D
     
     As with the block you found, the * represents a drill spot.  The 
     stamped letters on these two blocks were about 50% larger than the 
     numbers, and the numbers/letters are not well aligned, as if they were 
     individually hand stamped.  This is unlike the factory ID numbers on 
     other blocks, which have the appearance of having been stamped all at 
     once.  Unlike yours, the numbers on my blocks are right side up.  
     There is no evidence of restamping in these blocks either.
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 08:41:27 -0600
From: "babbott@pdnt.com" <babbott@pdnt.com>
Subject: Re: oops

I'm in central IL, near Champaign.

- ----------
> From: W-MACHINES <W-MACHINES@prodigy.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: oops
> Date: Monday, November 03, 1997 8:14 PM
> 
> I think I may have one for you.  Where are you?
> 
> W-Machines@prodigy.net
> Northern Ohio
> 
> ----------
> > From: babbott@pdnt.com
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: oops
> > Date: Tuesday, October 28, 1997 5:56 PM
> > 
> > Hey fellers,
> > I need a good (no cracks) B head.  Some rotten bastard tried to port it
> and
> > ruined it....boy if I knew who did it I'd.........wait a minute... I
did
> it
> >   anyway I do need a head, so if you have one you can spare, give me a
> > shout.
> >                                         Thanks,
> >                                     Eric Phillips     
> > babbott@pdnt.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 11:04:16 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Tire Size

Thomas Martin wrote:
>
> Did the 80's 442's come with 15's?  I would suspect 215 65 R15's, as GM
> was rather find of them those years (GN and Monte SS).

Yes, I think they did.  I know the 83-84 H/O's came with 215's.
 
> I would like to put a 225 to 245's on just for the looks and improved
> handling.  I still want to keep it as short as the factory tire, for the
> speedo and the 2.14 gears sake.  (Don't need to make 2.14's WORSE!)
> Stock size was 195 75 R14.  It has 205 75 R14 now, and it looks better
> with them.

The stock size on my Cutlass was 205/70 R14, but I have 215/70 R14 on now. 
I can't tell a big differnence in performance because I also have a 2.29
gear (2.14 being stock).  I'd also like to get some good looking 15"
wheels, preferrably chrome SSIII's from an 80's H/O.  I know that they will
cost a lot, so I'm not looking for them seriously.  15" wheels would be
nice, though.
_____________________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.erols.com/adcockjk

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #937
********************************

