
oldsmobile-digest      Thursday, December 4 1997      Volume 01 : Number 988



Re: Trans mystery......solved......help??
toro oil p'up tube
Re: 85 442 Value
Re: off-idle stumble
Re: 85 442 Value
Re: 85 442
64 442 f/s
Intake Manifold gaskets
Rear end info
Re: Heater/AC control switch 
the only sb?
69 W30 conversion
PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale 
Re: carpet  (Attn: Scott)
FE2 or F41
Re: Axle VIN
Re: "GM BLOOD"
Re[2]: Heater/AC control switch 
Re: hi i have major brake problems withmy cultass 88 supreme
Re: Rebuild/Upgrade kits....
Re: Trans mystery......solved......help??
Re: More Brother's stuff
Re: Rebuild/Upgrade kits....
Re: Rebuild/Upgrade kits....
Re: Rebuild/Upgrade kits....
350 and a TH250, can I do it????????
Re: Transmission ID
Re: Trans mystery......solved......help??
Re: Rearenz
Re: Rebuild/Upgrade kits....
Re: 455 in a pickup
Re: ADMIN-Small suggestion-No flack please
Re: Toro oil pan
Woah!  My name changed!!!!
Re: Heater/AC control switch
Oldsmobile Clipart???
Chevy vs. BOP bolt patterns
Re: carpet
1970 442 W-30
Re: 85 442 Value
RE: Rebuild/Upgrade kits....
Re: POR 15
Re: Beware of Brother's 
Re[2]: Heater/AC control switch

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 21:52:02 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: Trans mystery......solved......help??

Mike Rothe wrote:

>>>Sorta.  You know those slight differences between
>>>the older model TH400's, the "regular" 442 OG, vs 
>>>the W-30 OW?  That's kinda what they did to the 
>>>"OZ" transmissions.  It basically had higher WOT 
>>>shift points, a specially calibrated valve body, 
>>>and high stall speed converter.  Higher internal 
>>>pressures, and a few other mods.  In 86 and up 
>>>442s, the power ratings changed and the 
>>>transmissions were calibrated differently.  I 
>>>had a new 87 once that just didn't shift like the
>>>85.  Noticably smoother.

How tough would it be for me to get ahold of a OZ tranny?  It's still a
2004r, right?  If it is, would it bolt in perfectly where the other
2004r sits right now?  I'd imagine that these trannies are durable, and
will take a suit & tie 350 with ease, but will it last?  The 2004r in
the '85 DRB right now has 179,000km on it, and a well-dressed 350 would
be able to puree' the innards without too much trouble...

- ------------------------------------------ 
S. Dave Ward   mailto:ward@ptbo.igs.net 

'78 Delta 88 (350 4bbl.)
'85 Delta 88 (307 4bbl.)
'91 GMC Sierra 4x4 (305 TBI)

(Ennismore, Ontario, CANADA)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 21:55:39 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: toro oil p'up tube

you just need a toro oil pickup tube and screen.  you can get one of these
from PAW or summit, i think, and most engine parts houses will have one.
 other than that, you should be good to go.
============
One thing I found most annoying about some of the aftermarket oil pump pickups
is the fact that they are bolt-on. Pretty useless unless you have the pump that
has provision to accept that sort of pickup. 'Course, not a one of the ads is
gonna tell you that little detail.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 21:05:07 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: 85 442 Value

Hello, I know a guy who has an 85 442 with a 455 in it, not to sure 
on the miles, but I know it runs good and body is in really good 
shape other than a little surface bubble here and there, it has a 
factory sunroof, TH-400, other goodies, the 455 isn't factory of 
couse, but, I was curious what the value on this car might be?

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Fax (815) 235-6130
Home Page http://www.highland.cc.il.us
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few, or the one."

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 22:09:37 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: off-idle stumble

J2ROCKET wrote:
> 
> Hello Greg, In answer to your question, where do you buy Mallory points? Yes
> at most speed shops. Here in Ca. I get them from a large speed shop chain
> store called Super Shops. I don't know if they are nationwide or not or in

STUPID SHOPS!!?? I HATE THAT PLACE!!! They never have anything you want!
It's always "yeah, we don't have it but we can order it." I went there
last night with a friend. He was trying to get some Monza Pacesetter
tips for his exhaust. They didn't have two of the same in one size!! How
dumb is that? Another one of my friends tried to buy some wheels from
them. They only had ONE and said they could have the other three in 6
MONTHS, not weeks, MONTHS.

Who knows, maybe California is different, but the Toledo store sucks!

- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 22:12:52 -0500
From: m-hanneman@onu.edu
Subject: Re: 85 442 Value

I'm not sure what the price of a 85 442 with the 455 would be.  I have an
85 442 myself, all origianl though.  It has t-tops and 142,000 miles on it
and a dealership offered me $5,000 for it.  I'm assuming one with a 455
would be worth a bit more, even if it isn't original.

Matt

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 22:18:35 -0500
From: m-hanneman@onu.edu
Subject: Re: 85 442

>I called Oldsmobile in July 1985.  This is what they said...they made
>the 442 in limited production runs, a few hundred at a time.  In other
>words, several short "batch" runs of the cars.  The line had to be
>altered a little to provide the parts bins for the cars, that's why they
>made them that way.  Total production figures for 442 of the 1985 year
>was 3,000 for the public, but they said there were probably a few more
>"PR" cars made and were running around the proving grounds.  Exact
>number of those were not disclosed.
>
>Mine was built Feb 5, 1985.  I ordered it the end of Sept. 84.  There
>were about 3,300 Olds dealerships at the time, so the 300 lowest selling
>dealerships were not slated to receive any.  The remaining dealerships
>were supposed to be allotted 1 each, however, some dealerships waived
>their allotment, and the bigger dealers snapped them up.  I believe
>James Oldsmobile in Charleston, SC, (not James anymore) got 2.  One bare
>bones job in Oct., and mine, which I ordered.  As far as talking with
>the Gen. Manager there, every 442 in 85 was sold just about as fast as
>they were received.  The first one I test drove was white with blue
>interior, no power anything or options.  Very rare color.  List base
>price?  Somewhere around 10K.  Mine tallied to around 16,200.  I got the
>t-tops, which were an OPTION, for those on the list that are confused
>about Salon t-tops.  The W-42 option was $1275, but required the 600+
>dollar air conditioning.  Later they packaged that together.  In Dec.
>84, they had a price increase across the board on all the cars.  Luckily
>I had my order sealed at the lower price.
>
>2 cents,
>Mike Rothe
>

My 85 442 has t-tops also.  It also has the AC.  The original buyer was
from NW Ohio.  I am hopeing to contact him to find out some more info on
the car, such as the dealership it was purchased from.  Maybe I can get
some help from them.

Thanks for your input,
Matt Hanneman

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 22:21:37 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: 64 442 f/s

1964 Olds 442 F-85
350 Rocket

[[There's that term again... but, what YEAR "Rocket"? They are NOT all alike]]

with Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake, Edelbrock Performer PLus Cam, Edlebrock 750
cfm Carb, Edelbrock Sure Seat Valve Springs Mondello Chrome Moly Adj. Push
Rods. TH350 Trans with B&M Holeshot 2400 Torque Converter and Shift Kit.
Dynomay Headers. New Holley Hi Flow Fuel Pump and Regulator.
New rebuild with about 5k miles. Crank Ground -10

[[Good, good so far...]]

Olds 403 (4a) Heads.

[[Uh-oh... Let's assume it has the usual 16cc or 24cc pistons... 0.040" head
gasket, giving the benefit of the doubt, maybe they used a *350* head gasket
and not a 403 gasket. To achieve the following CRatios, here's the head cut
needed...

  Head cut required for the given compression ratio

               Piston
CRatio      16cc    24cc
- ----------------------------------
8.0         .055    .095
8.5         .089    .129
9.0         .119    .159
9.5         .145    .185
10.0        .168    .208
10.5        .189    .229

None of these seem very likely... So, what is the CR this motor has if the
heads were not cut appreciably?

6.89:1 with the 24cc pistons...
7.31:1 with the "high compression" small-dish piston *snort* ]]

Chrome Valve Cover's,Air Filter, Alternator,
Car is purple with custom flame job.Needs some TLC.

[[no comment :-)  ]]

Thinking about selling looking for Best Offer.
Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>
=====================
[[Just goes to show you, one should be aware of the ramifications of changing
parts around, especially critical parts like the heads. Well, at least it has
big valves now! Can probably burn Kerosene effectively. Nooooooo problems with
detonation! ]]
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 22:26:05 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Intake Manifold gaskets

Right now I'm in the process of putting a Performer RPM manifold and
Edelbrock 750 cfm carb on my 69 350. It used to be a two barrel.
The problem I need help with is the intake manifold gasket. I want to
put the "Torque Plus" gaskets on. they have the little screens that
are supposed to "atomize" the fuel for cleaner burn. I also have the
'turkey tray" in my  car and I don't even have to buy a new one (what
$25?). In the pile of stuff I got when I bought the car, I found a
brand new one in the box, with end seals, gooseneck gasket and
sealant.
The Torque Plus instructions say I can use their gaskets and the
Valley pan together with no problem. They also say I can ditch the
Valley Pan with no problem. What do you all think? After all, Joe
Mondello says that using the Pan will reduce the heat 100%. :-). I
guess he took the "New Math.
I'm also doing the cam and valve train at the same time, but I'm not
into any kind of serious racing. Just want some power to play with.
Would appreciate any experiences and help.
TIA

Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass S convertible
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 19:30:21 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Rear end info

I believe Joe is right, although the last bearing I replaced was on the
'67.  I have a '70 manual Erick if you want any pages faxed to you (unless
you are taking it elsewhere to have done completely).  Let me know.


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser (twin hauler)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 22:31:25 -0500 (EST)
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: Re: Heater/AC control switch 

  vince i think i have a heater control sw.. olds guy...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 22:54:05 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: the only sb?

two hours later and nothing but BB or SB, (they don't even bother to lable it
ch*vy).
=================
Heh, how about asking for a gasket set for "the small block". Then when they
hand it over, exclaim, "Hey, this is not for small block engine, it's for a
CHEVY! Don't you have any stuff for REAL engines?!" and toss it back.

- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 22:58:37 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: 69 W30 conversion

Is there a difference between the 69 W-30 Radiator core support
and a 442 radiator core support?  Or is the cut out for the OAI
in the red inner fender wells?  What does the plastic scoops
under the front bumper attach to?  Does it show this in the Fisher
Body Manual?  Just thinking of making my convertible a W-30.

Thanks,
Clay
69 442 convertible
=================
Well, the cars w/ HD cooling had a thicker radiator. The cutout for OAI is
indeed in the red inner fender liner. The scoops attach via z-shaped straps to
bolts on the radiator support. Need the hoses and air cleaner. D heads to make
the conversion more presentable. Correct or better cam & springs would be nice.

 Oh, yeah, the lower fender braces in '69 used a rubber piece at the lower end,
which put the metal brace right where the scoop should go. Use '68 braces or
'69 W-car braces.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 23:09:33 -0500
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale 

                                        C&M Classic Parts
                                      1132 Chatmoss Drive
                                    Virginia Beach, VA 23464
                                         (757)474-0869 or
                                      <chermac@exis.net>
Hours:  Mon-Fri  6:00 pm - 10:00 pm, Sat 9:00 am - 6:00 pm, Sunday Closed
We accept all major Credit Cards. VISA, M/C, Amer. Express, and Discover.
New Parts:
Lots of new reproduction parts will be coming out in January.

66 W-30 Shrouds (stamped steel, chromed) $1795.00
67 W-30 Shrouds (stamped steel, chromed) $995.00
____________________________________________________________________ 
75 Hurst Olds (Hurst Hatches) no bags  $175.00 pr
64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $100.00
65-(early) 66 Plain Full Wheel Covers (4, mint)  $30.00 
66 Cutlass Trunk Molding (very good)  $85.00
66 F-85 Deluxe Wheel Well Moldings (3, mint, missing RF)  $90.00 (3)
66-68 Bucket Seat Backs (2) and Sides (4) (metal, nice, black)  $75.00 all
66 Cutlass Tail Light Bezels (very good)  $85.00 pr
67 4 spd Speedometer Adapter (3.42 gears & 4spd)  $45.00
67 Cutlass Plain Full Hubcaps (4, mint)  $30.00
67 Plain Cutlass Holiday Hardtop interior door panels and rear sides (very
nice, blue/green) $85.00 set of 4
68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
69 Cutlass RH Grille (nice, used)  $40.00
69-72 LH "W" Manifold (pitted)  $85.00
70-72 Lower A/C Vents (for 8 Track car, mint, black)  $90.00 pr 
70-72 Dash Pad and Dash Plastic (radio area, green, mint)  $185.00
66-67 Toro Dual Snorkel Air cleaner  (mint) $50.00
67-68 Big Cars AM/FM Stereo (nice, works well)  $95.00
64-72 330/350 Exhaust Manifolds (nice sets)  $40.00 set
69-72  Bench Seat Headrests (black, mint)  $45.00 pr
68-72 Arm Rest Pad Bases (front, black)  $20.00 pr
68-72 Arm Rest Pad Bases (rear, post coupe, black)  $20.00 pr
68-72 Rear Defrost  (no switch)  $30.00
68-72 2 Door Chassis (coupe, solid)  $300.00 (you arrange shipping or pickup)
69-72 Column Shift Steering Column (plain)  $45.00
69-70 Console Shift Steering Column (non-tilt)  $95.00
64-72 Power Window Motors  (excellent cond) $50.00 ea
68-72 LH Convertible Pillar Post Molding (interior side, nice, black)  $35.00 
68-72 Power Steering setup  (complete)  $60.00
70 350 engine "7" heads (9000 miles, 10.0 comp, 328 stick cam)  $500.00
70 LH/RH Hood "L" moldings (few small pits under side, nice chrome) $95.00 pr
70-72 455 Engine Mount (NEW, made in USA)  $40.00 pr
68-72 350 Engine Mount (NEW, Made in USA)  $38.00 pr
64-72 Jetaway/TH350, 4 Spd Muncie Trans Mount (NEW, made in USA)  $14.00 
67-72 TH400 Trans Mounts (NEW, made in USA)  $17.00 ea
(6) Hurst Wheels 14x6 (5 on 4 3/4) nice  $2300.00 
70-75 Sport Steering Wheels (black, nice centers, complete)  $130.00 ea
70-71 Buick GS Ram Air cleaner (nice)  $155.00
72 Buick GS Ram Air cleaner (mint restored)  $200.00
Bumper Bracket sets ALL years  $25.00 pr

****Lots of  66-68 Toronado Parts too.****

New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts for 1964-1972 Cutlass/442
_______________________________________________     
65 Cutlass/442 PO2 Deluxe Wheelcovers (N.O.S.)  $350.00
66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea                           
68-75 SSII/III Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea                       
69 Cutlass RH Grilles (N.O.S.) $85.00 ea                             
70 Cutlass Supreme Grilles (N.O.S.)  $120.00 pr
70-72 LH Coupe/Conv Door Skin (N.O.S.)  $200.00
70-72 Cutlass/442 LH Fenders (N.O.S. (1) left) $495.00 ea               
71-72 Turn Signal Lens (N.O.S.)  $90.00 pr                          
71-72 Stone Shields (N.O.S.) $38.00 ea                              
71-72 Headlight Housings (plastic) (N.O.S.) $80.00 pr          
71-72 Cutlass Rear Bumpers (N.O.S. (2) left) $400.00 ea               
71-75  Cutlass Fender Emblems (N.O.S.)  $19.50 ea            
72 Cutlass Supreme & Hurst/Olds Grilles (N.O.S.)  $120.00 pr

Used Parts
_______________________________________________      
64 Cutlass/442                       
RH Headlight Bezel  $15.00                                                  
Front Bumper Core  $50.00                                                   
F-85 Fender Emblem (nice)  $5.00                                      

65 Cutlass/442
65 Cutlass/442 Wheelwell Moldings  LH/RH rear $15.00 ea
65 425 111089 Distributor  $20.00

66 Cutlass/442
66 Turbine Full Wheel Covers (4) good  $80.00 set
66-67 Hood Hinges (nice sets)  $40.00 pr
66 Cutlass/442 Side Chrome moldings (almost complete set) Inquire
66 F-85 Post Coupe Doors (very good cond)  $90.00 ea, 170.00 pr
66 F-85/Cutlass grille (nice)   $55.00
66 F-85/Cutlass grille (good)  $35.00 
66 330 cu in 2 bbl engine (complete w/trans, 17,000 original miles)  $300.00  
66 Cutlass/442 Hood Molding  (fair cond, small crack)  $15.00
66-67 AM Radios (nice)  $30.00 ea
66-67 RH Hardtop Doors (very nice)  $90.00 ea
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
66 Cutlass/442 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
Post Coupe Exterior A-Pillar Chrome Moldings  $15.00 pr                        
F-85/Cutlass Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea                                  

67 Cutlass/442
66-67 Hood Hinges (nice sets)  $40.00 pr
67 Cutlass Jetaway Trans (low miles, w/switch pitch converter)  $125.00
67 Cutlass/F-85 Grille Bar (very nice, no cracks, good chrome)  $45.00
67-69 Power Antenna assm (nice, no switch)  $45.00
67 400 442 #1111042 Distributor  $35.00
66-67 Rear Side window lower U-seals (new, Metro Moulded)  $18.00 pr
67 W-30 Core Support (Factory stamped, bent on drivers side)  $225.00
67 Cutlass Hood (mint)  $100.00
67 Cutlass Fender Emblems (nice)  $10.00 ea
67 Plain Cutlass Fender Rockets (nice)  $5.50 ea
67 Rear Defrost setup (w/switch)  $45.00
66-67 AM Radios  (nice)  $30.00 ea
66-67 RH Hardtop/Conv Doors (very nice)  $90.00 ea
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
67 F-85 Rear Bumper (very good condition)  $75.00
67 Front Bumper (straight, core)  $70.00
67 Cutlass Headlight Bezels (nice)  $50.00 pr
67 442 Trunk Lids (clean)  $90.00 ea
67 442 Pie Tin Decal  $3.00
67 RH Fender (small metal patch panel, straight)  $165.00

68 Cutlass/442
68-69 Cutlass/442 Post Coupe LH Door  $85.00
68 Turn Signal Lens (mint)  $12.00 ea
68 Cutlass Rear Bumper (core)  $75.00
68-69 14x6 SSII Wheels (set of 5)  $200.00
68-69 Power Antenna Assm (no switch, has adapter, needs mast)  $25.00
68 AM Radio  $25.00
68  8-Track Unit (housing cracked, needs plastic one)  $65.00
68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
68-69 LH Quarter Panel  4 door (mint)  $135.00
68-69 RH Quarter Panel  4 door (mint)  $135.00
68-72 Cutlass S LH Rear Side Glass (clear)  $35.00              
Rear Window Molding Sets  $45.00 set                               
68 Cutlass/442 Std Horn Button (black, nice)  $7.00                     
68 Air Cleaner Stove Pipe (pipe only)  $10.00                              
68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $40.00 ea                                            
68-72 Cowl mouldings  $25.00 ea                                
68-72 B-Pillar Molding Set (black, mint) $27.50 pr 

69 Cutlass/442
69 Rallye Pack (Gauge side only)  $75.00
69 442 RH Grille (nice) $50.00
69 Cruise Control Switch and Bezel  $25.00
69 Radiator Core Support 3 Row (mint, no rust holes)  $150.00
69 Tail Light Bezels (nice, pit free)  $135.00 pr
69 Trunk Lid (Conv, nice)  $175.00
69 Headlight Bezels  $60.00 pr
69 Lower Dash (radio area)  (nice)  $35.00
69 C/S Side Moldings (mint, no pits)  $15.00 ea
68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
68-69 LH Quarter Panel 4 door (mint)  $135.00
68-69 RH Quarter Panel 4 door (mint)  $135.00
69 Cutlass/442 Doors 2 dr Hardtop (mint pair)  $200.00 pr / $110.00 ea
69-72 Hood Hinges  $40.00 pr
69-70 "S" Hood Louver Chrome  $25.00 pr
69-70 "S" Hood Louver Moldiings  $25.00 pr
68-72 Windshield Molding Sets  $45.00 set                                 
68-72 Fastback Rear Window Molding Sets  $45.00 set
69-72 Floor Shift Steering Column (very good)  $95.00
69 LH Top Fender Moldings (excellent) $35.00
69 RH Fender (small nickel sized hole)  $200.00
69 Rear Bumper (V05 rub strip) one small ding  $135.00
69 Front and Rear 4 Doors  (small dings, no rust) $55.00 ea
69 4 Door Panels (Gold, cloth, nice)  $25.00 ea

70 Cutlass/442
70-72 Rallye Pack (Tach only, works needs needle end)  $125.00
70 Std Auto console neutral safety switch w/bracket  $65.00
70-72 LH Fender (dimpled, nice)  $185.00
70-72 Power Lock Solenoids (electric)  $35.00 ea
70-72 14x7 SSII Wheels (set of 5)  $200.00
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
70-72 RH Door (Coupe/Conv)  $110.00
70-72 Wide Chrome window moldings (with sweepers)  $50.00 set
70 350 4 bbl Stick engine (complete, minus carb runs great)  $275.00
70 FLAT Fender RH (small metal patch panel installed nice)  $300.00 
70 Cutlass Supreme Door Panels (black mint) 4 for $100.00
70 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
70 Cutlass Supreme Hood (excellent)  $115.00
70 442/SX/Rally 350 Rear Cutout Bumper (CORE)  $110.00
70-71 Halo Vinyl Top Molding sets no "L " moldings (mint) $55.00 set
70-72 455 Std. Iron intake manifold (auto cars)  $55.00
70-72 Std. Auto Console Shift Lens  (repro)  $23.00 ea (backordered)
70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switch Bezels  $5.00 ea             
70 RH Sport Mirror Shell  $40.00
70 F-85 Horn Button (cheap style wheel, excellent)  $10.00
70 Oldsmobile Options Folder  $5.00                                    
69-70 C/S Front Hood Rocket (nice)  $12.00                                
69-70 "S" Hood Chrome Vents  $25.00 pr                                        
69-70 "S" Hood Vent Moldings  $25.00 pr                                        
70 "S" Pillared Coupe Door Panels (good cond)  $40.00 pr         
70 Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $90.00                                  
70-72 Black A/C Dash Pads  $100.00 ea                  
70-72 Glove Box Doors  $15.00 ea
70-72 RH Fender (has small patch panel)   $185.00                               
70 Cutlass 'S' Tail Light Lens   $17.00 ea
70 Cutlass Supreme Tail Light Lens  $23.00 ea

71 Cutlass/442
70-72 Rallye Pack (Tach only, works needs needle end)  $125.00
70-72 LH Fender (dimpled, nice)  $185.00
70-72 Power Lock Solenoids (electric)  $35.00 ea
70-72 14x7 SSII Wheels (set of 5)  $200.00
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
70-72 RH Door (Coupe/Conv)  $110.00
71-72 Power Lock Switches  $12.00 ea
71-72 Power Window Switches (nice)  $25.00 (4) button,  $10.00 singles
71-72 Fender RH (small metal patch in bottom)  $185.00
71 350 4 bbl Engine (complete, carb to pan, runs excellent) $250.00
71 Cutlass Full Wheel Covers  $30.00 set
71-72 Sport Mirrors (excellent cond)  $90.00 pr 
71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00
71 Front Rocket Emblem (nice)  $5.00
70-72 C/S LH/RH Side Glass  $25.00 ea 
71 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr

72 Cutlass/442
70-72 Rallye Pack (Tach only, works needs needle end)  $125.00
70-72 LH Fender (dimpled, nice)  $185.00
70-72 Power Lock Solenoids (electric)  $35.00 ea
70-72 14x7 SSII Wheels (set of 5)  $200.00
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
70-72 RH Door (Coupe/Conv)  $115.00
71-72 Power Lock Switches  $12.00 ea
71-72 Power Window Switches (nice)  $25.00 (4) button,  $10.00 singles
71-72 10 Bolt 2.56:1 (open rear)  $75.00
71-72 Sport Mirrors (excellent cond)  $90.00 pr 
72 Cutlass/442 Owners Manual  $7.00                                  
71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00
72 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr            


Jim Chermack
OCA #24275

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 23:17:02 -0500
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: carpet  (Attn: Scott)

At 07:04 PM 12/3/97 -0600, you wrote:
Scott

        Specialty Olds is in Winterhaven, FL. His number is 1-800-622-2024
or 1-941-293-7966. He hasn't been in Tampa for a year or two now. He only
carries items for 64-7? Cutlass/442. No big car stuff. If that's what your
looking for call Mike Fusick or Oldsmobile Parts USA.

Jim Chermack
 

>Scott wrote:
>
>>	How can I get ahold of these guys (one of the few places I've
>>never heard of).  Would they have a molded carpet set for something as far
>>back as my '60?  Thanks in advance...
>>	
>>				Scott
>>			1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98
>
>
>Specialty Olds
>1727 W. Cypress St.
>Tampa, FL   33606
>
>(941)  293-7966
>
>(Ask for Ken Reese - Good guy to deal with.) 
>
>Doug Newman
>Columbus, MS
>1987 442
>
>http://www.442.com/newman.html
>  
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 18:34:22 -0500
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: FE2 or F41

Oops.  I believe I made a mistake earlier.  The FE2 suspension was
standard on the Salons of the mid-80's, and the F41 was the optional
heavy duty suspension that was standard on 442.  I apologize for any
confusion this may have caused. Maybe that was why I remembered the part
numbers being different for suspension components.   My trunk sticker
lists the F41 service code.  And I didn't ORDER F41, so it must've been
standard on the 442.  Go figure.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 23:31:11 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: Axle VIN

Jason Adcock wrote:

> AK37 - 2 doors or 4 doors?  Were there any 4 door GPs?

If this axle came from a four door, could it have been a Parisienne? 
I've seen the auto wreckers screw up parts numbers more than once
before...

- ------------------------------------------- 
S. Dave Ward   mailto:ward@ptbo.igs.net 

'78 Delta 88 (350 4bbl.)
'85 Delta 88 (307 4bbl.)
'91 GMC Sierra 4x4 (305 TBI)

(Ennismore, Ontario, CANADA)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 23:40:54 -0500 (EST)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: "GM BLOOD"

In a message dated 97-12-03 21:16:17 EST, you write:

<< 
 Mark Chapman
  >>
Dear Mr Chapman,
 Since I own an 86 Salon, which was rocket powered from the factory, I dont
considered it even remotely related to a lowly c*evy. Its like a Merc cougar
owner saying he has a ford. When someone asks you what kind of car do own,
you dont say, why I own a "GM", no you say OLDSMOBILE !!!! Thats how I see
it.

BUT, I will say that if you have the aeroback SS, I will say you have a nice
car. I dont know why a simple rear window change makes a dif, but that
aeroback is sharp!! Also, I think a nice clean unmolested, say, 88 IROC would
turn my head from the c*evy camp.  
Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Dec 97 22:53:45 CDT
From: knightvd@norand.com
Subject: Re[2]: Heater/AC control switch 

     Thanks olds guy...how to I get in touch with you??
     
     Vince Knight - knightvd@norand.com
     
     71 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
     


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Heater/AC control switch 
Author:  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at smtpgate
Date:    12/3/97 9:41 PM


  vince i think i have a heater control sw.. olds guy...
     

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 23:51:17 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: hi i have major brake problems withmy cultass 88 supreme

>Hi my name is john hicks owner of a 1988 olds mobile and this car has bake
>brake trouble all the time, calibers lockup do to rust and stuff off the
>road. please help me extend the life of brakes thanks john hicks

If your current calipers are locked up, they either have to be replaced or
rebuilt; I'd go with a set from a major chain store that offers a
lifetime-warranty (just in case you're doing things like driving through
salt water or something...).

Now, I'm assuming that the piston is freezing in the bore; common problem
with age, but how often is this happening to you? You should be able to get
at least five years out of a set of calipers. One suggestion might be to
coat the visible portion of the piston seal with a thick layer of
water-resistant chassis grease before installing it; that way, any crud
would get caught by the grease rather than making its way into the cylinder
bore.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 23:51:20 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Rebuild/Upgrade kits....

> > they show 2 different 350 kits '68-76 and '77-80
> 
> What changed between '76 and '77 I wonder? 

The volume of the combustion chamber, and the advertised compression ratio:

'73-'76= #8  heads, 79cc chamber, 8.5:1 CR
'77-'80= #3A heads, 75cc chamber, 8.0:1 CR

Now, keeping in mind that these are all published ratings that might vary
from the actual specs, to attain a lower compression ratio with a smaller
combustion chamber requires a piston with a deeper dish, so I'm guessing
that the dish volume will be different.

Actually, that can't be right, since you've got small-chamber heads on the
'68-'72 engines. Maybe the difference is simply the prices that they can get
the pistons for the '77-'80 engines at, vs. all other Olds 350 pistons.
Hopefully, they would supply pistons with the proper size dish if you had an
earlier small-chamber, high-compression engine. I wonder if they would
supply flat-top W-31 pistons...
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 01:19:36 -0800
From: Greg Pruett <grpruett@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Trans mystery......solved......help??

Dave Ward wrote:
> 
> RCKTPWR@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > Uh-oh, I decoded my trans, its an 81!!!!!  anybody know of any problems w/the
> > 81 4spds???   Thanks to all who helped in decoding it.........
> 
> Is it a THM200-4r?  I've heard that it's a dog of a transmission....the
> extra set of planetaries (for the OD) are coated with a type of plastic
> material, which will reduce friction and noise when crusing at highway
> speeds.  Over time, these planetaries will wear more than the 3spd.
> trannies (THM-350 & 400), and will become problematic.
> 
> My '85 DRB has the 2004r in it, and since I found this out, I'm a little
> worried about putting a suit & tie 350 in it...it'll turn the innards of
> the tranny into baby food.

I wouldn't sweat that too much.  I've had a 200-4R in the Vista Cruiser
for over two years and thirty-odd thousand miles.  (knocking on wood)
It's still holding up quite nicely.  When I changed the fluid this
summer there was no exessive amount of metal filings in the pan, and it
is shifting like it always has.  (again, knocking on wood) I commute 350
miles a week to classes when school's in and I even drove it to Lansing
this august.  (18mpg through ohio with an intermittant spark plug miss)  

The tranny is completely stock as it came out of an `85 Custom Cruiser
with a 6cyl engine and just over 100,000 on the odometer.  I just bought
it for $175 and slapped it in with the help of my dad.  I'm sure the
tranny isn't any stronger than the one in your `85 with the 307.  The
`72 350 in the VC is only a 2bbl, but I doubt it makes much less power
than a `78 350 4bbl with all it's required smog equipment in tow.  I
keep my driving pretty tame to make the tranny last as long as possible,
no burnouts or towing.  I don't hesitate to punch it to the floor though
if I need to move out in a hurry.
  
>  If I were to pull the trans out, and have it
> rebuilt with stronger parts, it would be prime.  But, like most people,
> I'm not ready to shell out $2000+ for a strong tranny.  I'll just keep
> making weekly trips to the El Junque Yarde for used 2004r's....

If you ever decide to get one built there's a lot of tranny shops listed
at the turbo rebal website that handle 2004R rebuilds:  
http://ni.umd.edu/gnttype/www/

Good luck with your engnie swap.  The 200-4R can be tempermetal but it's
still a good transmission, IMHO.  Just don't do anything to it that is
generally conidered transmission abuse and it will last you quite awhile
if it's in decent shape to start with.  

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 00:09:22 -0500
From: RC Hellebuyck <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: More Brother's stuff

< I'm reluctant to bother sending these parts back so I guess
> I'm just out $35.>

Bullshit!  Call "brothers" and tell them you want a (UPS) "call tag"
sent for merchandise that was shipped too late.  Don't feel intimidated
by these guys!  
- - 
RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/driving.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Dec 1997 00:14:51 -0500 (EST)
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rebuild/Upgrade kits....

do yourself a favor and do not go over 9.0:1 compression!!!  trust me on this
one, i have 9.0:1 and it is absolutely on the virge of detonation all the
time, even on 93 octane amoco.  i mean, im still trying to stop this stuff
and it has almost 4000 miles on it!!  its not bad, but you can still notice a
little bit of pinging when you start off at hard throttle from a redlight or
comlete stop.  i put in a 'distributor out of a '78 cutlass with a 260v8.
 these distributors have a faster advance rate, and are supposed to be good
for racers.  but im thinking maybe its "too" quick for what i need.  im going
to be purchasing headers, and having 2.5" exahst run, 8.8" msd wires, accel
supercoil, and a ram air system (the air cleaner in the back of hot rod
magazine) soon.  who knows, maybe the pinging will stop with the installation
of this stuff!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 00:43:55 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: Rebuild/Upgrade kits....

BIGJERMES@aol.com wrote:
> 
> do yourself a favor and do not go over 9.0:1 compression!!!  trust me on this
> one, i have 9.0:1 and it is absolutely on the virge of detonation all the
> time, even on 93 octane amoco.  i mean, im still trying to stop this stuff
> and it has almost 4000 miles on it!!  its not bad, but you can still notice a
> little bit of pinging when you start off at hard throttle from a redlight or
> comlete stop.  i put in a 'distributor out of a '78 cutlass with a 260v8.
>  these distributors have a faster advance rate, and are supposed to be good
> for racers.

Hmm...I'm starting to think that the pinging is a result of the 260
distributor.  It's making the spark advance too quickly, and thus,
overadvanced timing.  In the high-comp 455's, you have to run high-test
fuel....I believe it was Dr. Bob that told me this;  it's possible to
get away with lower octane fuel by disconnecting the vacuum advance.  (I
*could* be wrong, though).  This will retard the timing enough so that
knocking and pinging won't occur on lower-test fuels.  If you want to
continue using this overadvanced timing, try adding a bottle of octance
boost the next time you fill up with high-test.  You said that "racers
use this distributor"...well, they also use 105 octane fuel.

I can't say I've ever had this problem, but I'd bet it's the distributor
that's causing this.

- -- 
S. Dave Ward   mailto:ward@ptbo.igs.net 

'78 Delta 88 (350 4bbl.)
'85 Delta 88 (307 4bbl.)
'91 GMC Sierra 4x4 (305 TBI)

(Ennismore, Ontario, CANADA)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 00:49:01 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: Rebuild/Upgrade kits....

Robert Barry wrote:
> 
> > > they show 2 different 350 kits '68-76 and '77-80
> >
> > What changed between '76 and '77 I wonder?
> 
> The volume of the combustion chamber, and the advertised compression ratio:
> 
> '73-'76= #8  heads, 79cc chamber, 8.5:1 CR
> '77-'80= #3A heads, 75cc chamber, 8.0:1 CR

Dr. Bob,

If I wanted to bump the compression up a little bit, would I be better
off to buy a different pair of heads, or just buy pistons with a
shallower dish?  (It's possible to get pistons halfway between stock and
full race, right?)

- ---------------------------------------- 
S. Dave Ward   mailto:ward@ptbo.igs.net 

'78 Delta 88 (350 4bbl.)
'85 Delta 88 (307 4bbl.)
'91 GMC Sierra 4x4 (305 TBI)

(Ennismore, Ontario, CANADA)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 22:56:01 -0700
From: "Igor" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Subject: 350 and a TH250, can I do it????????

	The stock tranny that I have in my 81 delta is a TH250.  The 307 in there
decided to depart from me yesterday.  I have a 455(needs work) and a
TH400(good shape) and also can get a 350 for a few bucks.  I am considering
droping the 350 in, but don't really want to swap the tranny. So, my
question is can I use the TH250 with the 350 engine, and if yes how can I
beef it up (ie.shift kit).  Also, If I have to use the TH400, then how do I
swap and will it fit.  If yes, what about the electronic downshift on the
TH400.  What do I do about that??? Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 307

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Dec 1997 00:57:41 EST
From: RCKTPWR <RCKTPWR@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Transmission ID

I found out that i have an 81 trans.........
thanks to all for the help........
Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 00:57:54 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: Trans mystery......solved......help??

Greg Pruett wrote:

> The tranny is completely stock as it came out of an `85 Custom Cruiser
> with a 6cyl engine and just over 100,000 on the odometer.  I just bought
> it for $175 and slapped it in with the help of my dad.  I'm sure the
> tranny isn't any stronger than the one in your `85 with the 307.  The
> `72 350 in the VC is only a 2bbl, but I doubt it makes much less power
> than a `78 350 4bbl with all it's required smog equipment in tow.

The smog equipment will be dead as disco by the time I'm finished with
it.  The EGR will be history, and same with the low-comp 3A heads.  I'd
like to get a slightly hotter cam to match the comp. ratio, and I'll
have the carb tweaked up by the local Quadra-surgeon.  I've been told
that it'll run about 170-175 stock, but once I make the above changes,
bore it .020+, and run it through dual flowmasters, I'd like to be
hitting about 210hp.

It'll be running about 40 more horsepower than your VC, which will be a
noticeable difference, but nothing too severe.  Yes, she'll have more
"H'ya" when I crack the whip, but it won't harsh enough to require a
weekly transmission swap (or so I hope!)
 
- ---------------------------------------- 
S. Dave Ward   mailto:ward@ptbo.igs.net 

'78 Delta 88 (350 4bbl.)
'85 Delta 88 (307 4bbl.)
'91 GMC Sierra 4x4 (305 TBI)

(Ennismore, Ontario, CANADA)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Dec 1997 01:01:53 -0500 (EST)
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rearenz

my dads '79 chevy blazer had a 12 bolt dana 60 or something in it, with a
lockup.  well, last year on his way home, he heard a loud bang from the back
of the truck.  said it sounded like a stick of dynamite went off.  what had
happened was a tooth had broken off the gear and came back through.  it ate
the gear!!  he drove it on home, (20 miles) and took it out.  he had it
rebuilt, and about 2 monthes later, it started making noise so he got a 10
bolt and popped it in there and its been fine ever since.  just blabbing a
little more...:-)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 01:05:10 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: Rebuild/Upgrade kits....

BIGJERMES@aol.com wrote:
>
> do yourself a favor and do not go over 9.0:1 compression!!!  trust me on this
> one, i have 9.0:1 and it is absolutely on the virge of detonation all the
> time, even on 93 octane amoco.

Something's definately not right...the Porsche 911 3.3L V6 (non-turbo)
is making 282bhp, and running at 11.3:1 compression. If a high-winding,
air-cooled engine run fine at over 11:1 with 93 octane, but you can't
with 9:1?  C'mon....that's ignition problems all the way.

Here's a question for the more mechanically inclined...how would dual
knock sensors (in the Porsche) operate better than just one?  Is it
because of the high compression?

- -- 
S. Dave Ward   mailto:ward@ptbo.igs.net 

'78 Delta 88 (350 4bbl.)
'85 Delta 88 (307 4bbl.)
'91 GMC Sierra 4x4 (305 TBI)

(Ennismore, Ontario, CANADA)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 03:37:23 -0700
From: Christy Hendricks <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: 455 in a pickup

>         Dustin, I am next to positive that you WILL have to do some mods to get the Oldsie
> mounting brackets to bolt to the Chevy frame....reason I say this is this:  I just did the
> exact opposite kind of swap that you wanna do - I put a Bigblock Chevy motor into my '76

			< < < S N I P > > >

One point here, the early 70's Olds had different motor mounts, which
were, I've been told, identical to the che*y mounts. (wouldn't know...
never bothered to put one of ~those~ in a car!!!) I know my Delta was
worlds different than the other Olds's I'd played with (and swapped
engines with.......)

Charley Buehner (~the~ Oldsmobile Magnet... Who really is still alive,
but without a computer, and currently struggling with some oddball
bas**rd keyboard on a store model....  Typo's from hell...  Damn
backspace key is just too small!!!)
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 03:47:36 -0700
From: Christy Hendricks <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: ADMIN-Small suggestion-No flack please

> Got to wondering during all this hoopla over other makes being
> discussed, dissed, etc.  A lot of us, me included, have several
> different makes of vehicle we own, and in some cases, are trying to
> restore.  While I have 4 Oldsmobiles, I also have a 71 GS455 conv,

Don't worry man, if anyone starts diss'in GS's, I'll be ready to jump in
and get old school on 'em, I'll put the smack down on their ayassss
beyat//  Oh, sorry, MTV was playing in the background.  Got a bit
carried away!  :)  I think it sounds like a great idea, and look
foreward to seeing what comes of it...

(actually, as dead as my PC has been, I might still be looking
~backwards~ for the replies....)

Charley Buehner (~The~ Oldsmobile Magnet)
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 04:21:22 -0700
From: Christy Hendricks <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Toro oil pan

Chris Miller wrote:
> 
> I am getting ready to do a small rebuild on my 455 and would like to put
> on a Toro oil pan, the extra quart is a welcome addition.  I am looking
> for any tips on this procedure, ie: misc. needed parts (beside the pan
> :) and where to pick-up these parts!  I am also looking for anyone with
> a extra pan.  Any and all help is again greatly appreciated.
> 

One thing I found on my swap (one of those last-minute/unwelcome
suprises) is that the original exhaust would no longer work, since the
pan is bigger, and the pipes had this major desire to hit it...

Had it reworked, and ~that~ was fine...

Charley Buehner (the Oldsmobile Magnet)
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 04:47:01 -0700
From: Christy Hendricks <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Woah!  My name changed!!!!

I'm using a loaner computer, and apparantly netscape doesn't care about
my ~login~ name.  So, for tonight, my name is christy, and my backspace
key is in the wrong spot!  Can't wait to get my PC back.  Hell, right
now, I'm more anxioux for that than my Olds!  (At least with the PC I
can hear about everyone else's success stories!)

Charley Buehner (the Oldsmobile magnet)
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 07:46:20 -0800
From: Ingmar Ott <iao2@cdc.gov>
Subject: Re: Heater/AC control switch

Vince and/or Eric,
neither one of you state if the heat comes on when you move the control
swich to the hot position.  So my first question would be, Is there
actually warm/hot air coming in?  And if so, where.  The fact that
something is hissing when you move the switch would indicate, that it's
still connected to the linkage, otherwise (if you were just moving a
lever with nothing attached) nothing would change.  I don't know about
the 70 Cutlass, but mine is vacuum controlled, as are the settings for
Heater, Defrost, ...  If the vacuum hoses under the hood are broken,
disconnected or dry rotted (leak vacuum) or, not enough vacuum is
generated, then the doors won't open (or only open slightly), which
might cause that hissing sound.  I would check the vacuum lines under
the dash and under the hood first, before I would dismantle the dash to
get to the actual control levers.

Ingmar Ott
iao2@cdc.gov

'77 Cutlass 442
- ---------------------------------------------------------


>Vince,
>I'm having the same problem with my 70 Cutlass. I don't know what to do
>either, but were in the same boat anyway.
>Eric Phillips,
>babbott@pdnt.com
>
> - ----------
>> From: knightvd@norand.com
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: Heater/AC control switch
>> Date: Wednesday, December 03, 1997 6:28 AM
>>
>>  Recently a vacuum leak has occurred in the heater/AC control switch
>>  in the dash in my 71 Cutlass.  The hissing starts when the temp control
>>  is moved from the cold position.  I checked for broken or disconnected
>>  hoses, but found nothing.  I've never had one of these out.  Any tips?
>>  Are they repairable?
>>
>>  If I need a replacement does anyone know of a source besides the junkyard?
>>  Thanks
>>  Vince Knight
>>
>>  71 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Dec 1997 07:53:04 -0500 (EST)
From: NotDads442@aol.com
Subject: Oldsmobile Clipart???

Does anybody about there have any Oldsmobile related clipart??

I bought this little business card making program and would like to put some
Olds stuff on them.

Thanks
Cecil
1991 W41
OCA #29604

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Dec 1997 07:55:47 -0500
From: Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
Subject: Chevy vs. BOP bolt patterns

Message text written by :
>Why did GM allow Chevy to have a special bellhousing that fits only 
Chevy blocks?  Sounds like that is not cost effective.<

Because early on Chevrolet was always large enough to have their own engine
and transmission programs so they did it their way and the rest of GM did
it the other way.  Remember that Chevrolet was formed as a separate car
company by Billy Durant and Louis Chevrolet and after it became successful,
Durant used its profits to take back GM from which he had earlier been
deposed.  Chevrolet through many years sold as many vehicles as the other
divisions combined and so it maintained some relative autonomy.  Also,
Chevrolet was the entry level division so it needed some different designs
(i.e. - less expensive) for its applications.

<They make new block castings, just start refitting them then, the dual 
bolt pattern tranny was nice, but should never have been needed.>

The dual bolt patterns showed up when GM started to consolidate it's
transmission operations and use "Chevy built" transmissions in BOP
applications and "Hydramatic Built" transmissions in Chevy applicationas. 
We built dual pattern THM-250C trannys at my plant but Chevy only THM-350C
trannys until the end.


<Just wondering!  My 80 Turbo T/A has a sweet THM350, with dual bolt 
pattern, not drilled.>

Probably built by Flint or Windsor plants as Toledo and Parma only built
Chevy bolt patterns.


Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma Plant
Transmission Division (4T60/65-E) - Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com
The statements and opinions expressed here are NOT an official
statement of General Motors or the GM Powertrain Division

'97 Chevy Blazer LT 4x4 4.3L V6    '96 DCM Impala SS 5.7L V8 
'87 Olds Cutlass 442 307 V8        '61 GMC 1500 Fleetside 305 V6  

------------------------------

Date: 4 Dec 1997 08:15:46 EDT
From: Wyatt@jobax.net
Subject: Re: carpet

OL>>
OL>>         Specialty Olds has been the best for us. It runs about $95.00 and
OL>> the best I've found. I falls right in and the colors are correct.


OL>         How can I get ahold of these guys (one of the few places I've
OL>never heard of).  Would they have a molded carpet set for something as far
OL>back as my '60?  Thanks in advance...
OL>
OL>                                             Scott
OL>                                 1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

If my memory is correct, the early 60s GM carpets were cut and sewn
types.  The molded stuff was used in the later part of the 60s to
present day.  Check with Auto Custom Carpet in Alabama.  They have
correct cut and sew for the early cars as well as molded for the newer
ones.  They can also tell you which one is correct for your car.  Their
carpets will fit every time, which is important.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Dec 1997 08:37:16 EST
From: Dan442Olds <Dan442Olds@aol.com>
Subject: 1970 442 W-30

Can anyone help me out with these questions?
1.  How good are the red fender wells and 70 grills that Year One sells.
Anyone know of some better?
2.  Does anyone sell the side marker lens (2 amber, 2 red)?
Thanks,

Dan442Olds

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Dec 1997 07:42:37 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: 85 442 Value

Thanks for the info, I know the miles are under 100,000 on a rebuilt 
455 with dual exhaust and some mild bolt ons, its out of Chicago, 
with just surface bubles starting on the paint job and he's asking 
$2,500.00 for it, so, I guess its worth it. :) 

> I'm not sure what the price of a 85 442 with the 455 would be.  I have an
> 85 442 myself, all origianl though.  It has t-tops and 142,000 miles on it
> and a dealership offered me $5,000 for it.  I'm assuming one with a 455
> would be worth a bit more, even if it isn't original.
> 
> Matt
> 
> 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Fax (815) 235-6130
Home Page http://www.highland.cc.il.us
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few, or the one."

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Dec 1997 08:50:34 -0500
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: Rebuild/Upgrade kits....

Did you recurve that distributor before you put it into your 350. The
260v8 will definitely have a more advanced and lighter spring setup. I
think that's why you are getting that pinging. Add an accel recurve kit
to that list of products and you will notice an improvement. I would
suggest that you do the spring setup first. 

Fernando Proietto
A. Manager
Systems Analyst - Informatics

Environment Canada
Ontario Region - Monitoring & Systems Branch
4905 Dufferin St. 
Downsview, Ontario
M3H 5T4

> ----------
> From: 	BIGJERMES@aol.com[SMTP:BIGJERMES@aol.com]
> Sent: 	Thursday, December 04, 1997 12:14 AM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Re: Rebuild/Upgrade kits....
> 
> do yourself a favor and do not go over 9.0:1 compression!!!  trust me
> on this
> one, i have 9.0:1 and it is absolutely on the virge of detonation all
> the
> time, even on 93 octane amoco.  i mean, im still trying to stop this
> stuff
> and it has almost 4000 miles on it!!  its not bad, but you can still
> notice a
> little bit of pinging when you start off at hard throttle from a
> redlight or
> comlete stop.  i put in a 'distributor out of a '78 cutlass with a
> 260v8.
>  these distributors have a faster advance rate, and are supposed to be
> good
> for racers.  but im thinking maybe its "too" quick for what i need.
> im going
> to be purchasing headers, and having 2.5" exahst run, 8.8" msd wires,
> accel
> supercoil, and a ram air system (the air cleaner in the back of hot
> rod
> magazine) soon.  who knows, maybe the pinging will stop with the
> installation
> of this stuff!
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Dec 1997 08:49:52 -0500 (EST)
From: DEOVIVERE@aol.com
Subject: Re: POR 15

In a message dated 97-12-03 20:48:39 EST, you write:

<< I tried POR 15 on exhaust manifolds. After 3 months it looks
 like it was just applied....
 
 					The General >>

General -

How did you use it?  What sort of prep process did you follow?

Tom Simmons
65 Cutlass-cum-442
70 SX W-32
72 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 20:57:09 -0500
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: Beware of Brother's 

On Tue, 02 Dec 1997, "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net> wrote:
>> Have seen a lot of bad press on Brothers over the last few months so I
>> thought I would share this.  >I think patience and asking the right 
questions from them would yield the best results.>
  

I may be taking your meaning wrong, but I don't think customers should feel 
they have to "walk on eggs" with any business or sales person.  After all, what 
"are" the "right questions"?  With my business, I encourage all my customers to 
ask any question(s) they might have.  That's part of the job. CUSTOMER SERVICE! 
 
Far too many so-called "businesses" these days aren't truly concerned about 
their customers.  Particularly when there's a problem.  I believe that the 
strong (present) economy has alot to do with this attitude.  Currently, people 
are spending and buying like never before, and in higher dollar amounts.  Where 
there's one dissatisfied customer, there's twenty more right in line who will 
spend their money without "problems".  Sales people know this, which creates 
that "I don't know - I don't care, just buy something and go away" attitude.  It 
now seems this treatment is the "norm of the nineties". :(   All you can really 
do, (besides getting angry), is take your business else where.  Personally, I 
won't "beg" anyone to take my money!  There's too many places that welcome my 
business.  


With the exception of a major setback, (such as a fire etc.), I don't believe 
there is any justification to treat a customer badly just because a company is 
behind on orders or unorganized!  That's an important part of running a 
business, organization.  Even the occasional idiot customer who is unreasonable 
can be handled with tactfully.

My two buying experiences with Brother's has been good, I've always bought from 
them at shows and received the items right there.  After reading some of the 
list members "horror stories", I think I'll keep it that way.  ;) 

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.        

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 97 09:08:04 CDT
From: knightvd@norand.com
Subject: Re[2]: Heater/AC control switch

     Thanks Ingmar,
     
     In my case the heat does work, and the air moves from the top vents to 
     the bottom heater vent without a problem.  I have checked for leaking 
     hoses but found nothing.  
     
     At this point it looks like I'm going to have to remove the control.
     
     Thanks,
     
     Vince Knight - knightvd@norand.com
     
     71 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
     
     
     


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Heater/AC control switch
Author:  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at smtpgate
Date:    12/4/97 6:51 AM


Vince and/or Eric,
neither one of you state if the heat comes on when you move the control 
swich to the hot position.  So my first question would be, Is there 
actually warm/hot air coming in?  And if so, where.  The fact that 
something is hissing when you move the switch would indicate, that it's 
still connected to the linkage, otherwise (if you were just moving a 
lever with nothing attached) nothing would change.  I don't know about 
the 70 Cutlass, but mine is vacuum controlled, as are the settings for 
Heater, Defrost, ...  If the vacuum hoses under the hood are broken, 
disconnected or dry rotted (leak vacuum) or, not enough vacuum is 
generated, then the doors won't open (or only open slightly), which 
might cause that hissing sound.  I would check the vacuum lines under 
the dash and under the hood first, before I would dismantle the dash to 
get to the actual control levers.
     
Ingmar Ott
iao2@cdc.gov
     
'77 Cutlass 442
- ---------------------------------------------------------
     
     
>Vince,
>I'm having the same problem with my 70 Cutlass. I don't know what to do 
>either, but were in the same boat anyway.
>Eric Phillips,
>babbott@pdnt.com
>
> - ----------
>> From: knightvd@norand.com
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: Heater/AC control switch
>> Date: Wednesday, December 03, 1997 6:28 AM 
>>
>>  Recently a vacuum leak has occurred in the heater/AC control switch
>>  in the dash in my 71 Cutlass.  The hissing starts when the temp control 
>>  is moved from the cold position.  I checked for broken or disconnected 
>>  hoses, but found nothing.  I've never had one of these out.  Any tips? 
>>  Are they repairable?
>>
>>  If I need a replacement does anyone know of a source besides the junkyard? 
>>  Thanks
>>  Vince Knight
>>
>>  71 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
     

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #988
********************************

