To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #989


oldsmobile-digest      Thursday, December 4 1997      Volume 01 : Number 989



Re: Beware of Brother's
Re: Heater/AC control switch
Re: wiper/cruise combination lever
Re[2]: Rebuild/Upgrade kits....
Knock sensors (was: Rebuild/Upgrade kits....)
Re[2]: Rebuild/Upgrade kits....
Repro Red Fenderwells
1970 442 W-30
Re: engine similarities Question
Re: engine similarities Question
Re: Rebuild/Upgrade kits....
Re: Rebuild/Upgrade kits....
Re: 455 in a pickup
Distributor options
Re: 64 442 f/s
floor mats
To anyone interested....
Re: Distributor options
Capped
Olds History Center Moving Next Year
Re: 64 442 f/s
Re: Capped
Re: Capped
Re: floor mats
W30 compression
Olds People are Great!
Re: carpet  (Attn: Scott)
Rearenz, Update
Re: Capped
Re: Rapidfire Plugs
Re: Olds People are Great!
Re: ADMIN-Small suggestion-No flack please
Re: Rearenz, Update
turbo 400 linkage
Re: turbo 400 linkage
Re: Rearenz, Update
Danbury Mint '55 Super 88 Conv
Re: ADMIN-Small suggestion-No flack please
Re: ADMIN-Small suggestion-No flack please
Re: Distributor options
Double posting
Re: Rearenz, Update

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 07:32:48 -0800
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Beware of Brother's

mrhell@m1.sprynet.com wrote:

> I may be taking your meaning wrong, but I don't think customers should feel
> they have to "walk on eggs" with any business or sales person.  After all,
what > "are" the "right questions"?  With my business, I encourage all my
customers to > ask any question(s) they might have.  That's part of the job.
CUSTOMER SERVICE!

I am not saying to "walk on eggs".  What I was to trying to convey is
that if you
want a high success rate getting stuff from Brothers in which they do
have a part
in-house and is not a special order, then the chances go up that you
will get that
item on a timely basis.  In my case I tried to order window
weatherstrips (original
type) for my 68 442 SC and let me tell you it was a nightmare.  You
would think at
some point they would have sold at least one set of these to another
Cutlass/442
owner.  Given the UPS strike (several sent package lost) and getting the
parts
wrong twice (first set seem to be for a HT and the second set was half
HT/half I
dunno).  They asked me to send my originals to them and they would have
some custom
made.  No way was I going to risk losing my originals.  Do you know how
hard it is
to come by window weatherstrips for a 68 442 SC?  I was willing to send
them to
their manufactorer, however, they declined giving me this information.
So
basically I am stuck with the originals.  Don't know if I'll ever get a
new set.
I even suggested getting plain strips and having the work done here in
California
(clipping and bending), no go on that one too.  What I think was truly
disappointing is that Mike from Brothers said that he lined up the
second pair of
weatherstrips to a 68 SC and they visually lined up.  I don't know how
that was
possible because it didn't work for me.  Maybe it was a 69 SC, I dunno.
I would
think that any SC from 68 - 72 would be the same.

> My two buying experiences with Brother's has been good, I've always bought
from > them at shows and received the items right there.  After reading some of
the > list members "horror stories", I think I'll keep it that way.  ;)

In this case you can see the item is in stock, ergo the high sucess
rate! :-)

Chris Sparks

P.S.  Don't get me wrong if anyone feels that I am against Brothers.  I,
frankly,
      like both Mike and Steve.  Very polite and yes a little
disorganized.  I can
      only hope that they get their computer software problems
resolved.  I
      believe that once this is done, they should be as efficient as
Year One.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Dec 1997 09:34:31 -0600
From: "Green, Andrew" <acg@datalogics.com>
Subject: Re: Heater/AC control switch

> I'm having the same problem with my 70 Cutlass. I don't
> know what to do either, but we're in the same boat anyway.

I know that on the full-size cars from '77 on, and the mid-size from
'78 on, the leak occurs in the rotary selector valve on the back of
the control panel; it's driven by the slide selector lever. It's a round
disk, a plastic/rubber sandwich with vacuum paths molded into the
rubber disk that match up with various ports on the back of the valve
as the disk turns. It's a cheap part; the last time I needed one a
couple
of years ago, for a '77 Caprice, I think the dealer charged me something

like nine bucks for a new one.

Whether this was used on control panels as old as 1970 I don't know,
although they do look pretty much the same from the front. That would
be the first thing I'd look for. (Disassembly of the dash to get at it
is
not much fun, though, not as easy as on the post-'77 cars.)
- --
Andrew C. Green             (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.            email: acg@datalogics.com
101 N. Wacker, Ste. 1800    http://www.datalogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301     Fax: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 07:48:11 -0700
From: "Anthony Marstall" <anthony.marstall@mailcity.com>
Subject: Re: wiper/cruise combination lever

>I have an 84 Cutlass Supreme.  My cruise control and windshield wiper
>broke and is hanging by wire which is left mounted to the steering wheel
>.  How can I replace this?  Do I have to get a complete steering wheel
>component?  Any help, if so e-mail direct.  I can't drive to long
>without windshield wipers.
>
>lchevere@hotmail.com
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
This is a very complicated job and requires a service manual if you haven't
replaced the lever before.  I replaced the one in an '83 Cutlass and it wasn't
too hard, but it takes patience and you have to pay close attention to the
assembly directions.
 You can buy one at an oldsmobile dealership (my personal recommendation) for a
little less than $100 or tear apart a steering column at the salvage yard.
Usually the used ones that you get off of other cars have the words worn off or
are just in bad shape from everyday use.  I would guess that it would be very
expensive to have someone else install one.

Anthony Marstall
'87 Trofeo
'88 Trofeo
'83 Cutlass Supreme Brougham



Free web-based e-mail, Forever, From anywhere!
http://www.mailcity.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 97 10:02:40 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re[2]: Rebuild/Upgrade kits....

Someone wrote:

.. yourself a favor and do not go over 9.0:1 compression!!!...

     While this is probably good advice with today's gasoline, just be
     careful about the effects of production tolerances on compression
     ratio.  Simply selecting a set of pistons labeled as 9.0:1 is not
     enough - you have to take into account the real combustion chamber
     volume, head gasket thickness, piston dish volume, and piston deck
     height.  In reality, these dimensions are usually on the large side,
     resulting in less than the advertised compression ratio.  While this
     is certainly safe from a detonation standpoint, it is not particularly
     healthy for performance.

     The bottom line is that during any quality engine rebuild, it pays to
     take the time to check all of the factory dimensions.  You may not
     decide that it's worth the time and expense of correcting
     discrepancies, however at least you'll make that decision consciously.

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 97 10:12:40 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Knock sensors (was: Rebuild/Upgrade kits....)

S. Dave Ward asked:

Here's a question for the more mechanically inclined...how would dual
knock sensors (in the Porsche) operate better than just one?  Is it
because of the high compression?

     At the risk of igniting a long-dormant thread, perhaps it's due to the
     _horizontally-opposed_ engine configuration.  I'm assuming the dual
     sensors are mounted one in each bank.  I'd guess that a monolithic
     cast iron (or even aluminum) block, like the ones used on our favorite
     V-8s, transmits acoustic waves from side to side much more reliably
     than the built-up configuration of the Porsche engine (they _do_ still
     use the separate cylinders attached to cast crankcase, don't they?).
     In the aerospace world, a bolted joint provides attenuation for
     acoustic and shock loads.

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 97 10:12:37 CDT
From: knightvd@norand.com
Subject: Re[2]: Rebuild/Upgrade kits....

     If you are using the stock cam, the stock springs and weights are
     probably the best.  If you are using a higher reving cam you will want
     to use a recurve kit to bring on the advance at a slower rate, while
     running more total advance.  Anyway, I think this is how it works.

     Vince Knight - knightvd@norand.com

     71 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

______________________________ Reply Separator 
_________________________________
Subject: RE: Rebuild/Upgrade kits....
Author:  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca at smtpgate
Date:    12/4/97 8:09 AM


Did you recurve that distributor before you put it into your 350. The
260v8 will definitely have a more advanced and lighter spring setup. I
think that's why you are getting that pinging. Add an accel recurve kit
to that list of products and you will notice an improvement. I would
suggest that you do the spring setup first.

Fernando Proietto
A. Manager
Systems Analyst - Informatics

Environment Canada
Ontario Region - Monitoring & Systems Branch
4905 Dufferin St.
Downsview, Ontario
M3H 5T4

> ----------
> From:  BIGJERMES@aol.com[SMTP:BIGJERMES@aol.com]
> Sent:  Thursday, December 04, 1997 12:14 AM
> To:  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:  Re: Rebuild/Upgrade kits....
>
> do yourself a favor and do not go over 9.0:1 compression!!!  trust me
> on this
> one, i have 9.0:1 and it is absolutely on the virge of detonation all
> the
> time, even on 93 octane amoco.  i mean, im still trying to stop this
> stuff
> and it has almost 4000 miles on it!!  its not bad, but you can still
> notice a
> little bit of pinging when you start off at hard throttle from a
> redlight or
> comlete stop.  i put in a 'distributor out of a '78 cutlass with a
> 260v8.
>  these distributors have a faster advance rate, and are supposed to be
> good
> for racers.  but im thinking maybe its "too" quick for what i need.
> im going
> to be purchasing headers, and having 2.5" exahst run, 8.8" msd wires,
> accel
> supercoil, and a ram air system (the air cleaner in the back of hot
> rod
> magazine) soon.  who knows, maybe the pinging will stop with the
> installation
> of this stuff!
>


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 97 11:10:37 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Repro Red Fenderwells

Dan442Olds asked:

Can anyone help me out with these questions?
1.  How good are the red fender wells and 70 grills that Year One sells.

     I don't know if the repros I've seen were from Year One or not, but
     I'd be willing to bet that all of the vendors get their repro
     fenderwells from the same manufacturer.  Anyway, the repros I have
     seen are _terrible_!  The biggest problem is the inaccurate molding of
     these plastic parts.  The factory fenderwells (red or black) are very
     crisply molded, with sharp edges on such features as the molded square
     bosses on the driver's side fenderwell (these are used to mount the
     cruise control unit on cars so equipped).  The factory fenderwells
     have bosses which are square with sharply-molded edges.  On all the
     repros I've seen (and I've seen several sets) these bosses are
     amorphous blobs with rounded edges - it almost looks like a factory
     set that had been heated up and started to melt!  The same goes for
     the molded wiring groove on either side - the repro parts have this
     feature much less sharply defined than on the factory parts.  A less
     severe problem is the color; the factory parts on my 70 appear to be
     darker and less orange than the repros (granted that the factory color
     may have changed due to age).  As I noted above, I cannot say that the
     parts I've seen came from Year One (I sincerely hope theirs are better
     quality), but the ones I have seen have been a big disappointment.

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: 4 Dec 1997 11:22:14 EDT
From: Wyatt@jobax.net
Subject: 1970 442 W-30

OL>Can anyone help me out with these questions?
OL>1.  How good are the red fender wells and 70 grills that Year One sells.
OL>Anyone know of some better?
OL>2.  Does anyone sell the side marker lens (2 amber, 2 red)?
OL>Thanks,

OL>Dan442Olds

I have a set of grilles from Fusick.  They were some of the first ones
reproduced.  I have been satisfied with them after all these years.  I
got them in '87 or '88, whenever they were first available.  The only
thing I did not like was the hole for the screw where both halves are
joined in the center.  The hole was too large to use the original screw.
 I ended up using a 1/4-20 bolt with a locking nut on the back.  That
let me secure the pieces without over tightening.  The grilles Year One
sells may very well be Fusick grilles.  I don't have any idea about the
other parts.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 11:40:03 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Re: engine similarities Question

> I didn't know that the firing order was the same for all GM's, and I've
> seen this distributor cap advertised, probably in Summit, that sends out
> your ignition wires in a more aesthetically pleasing fashion.  It says
> it's for Chevys, but would it work on an Olds too then?

        Ray, first off, I knew that all the GM V8s had that firing order
because I looked it up in my Chilton's manual just to be sure =B)  But my
best guess is that yes, that special cap woud in deed fit an Olds
distributor because if you look at Accel's performance cap & rotor set, it
fits all the different divisions.  The only thing I had trouble with on my
project was that I couldn't use the Olds distributor in my Chev BigBlock
because the Oldsmobile's is a bit shorter, so I grabbed a SmallBlock Chevy
distributor instead.  But I went out and bought the same new Accel cap I was
running on the Olds distributor and I screwed the same HEI Supercoil back on
top that I had on the Olds as well.
        Well, Ray, I just looked through my Summit book (well, the book I
"borrowed" from my friend =B)  The one and only cap that re-routed your
spark plug wires was the Moroso one for $55.95.  It doesn't actually change
your firing order, it just runs the terminals to where they'd need to be to
neaten things up.  Only problem with it is that it's not an HEI model.  I
can't recall seeing an HEI cap that reroutes the wires yet, and I have seen
a couple different models.  However, if HEI is not a concern for you, I'd go
ahead and give this a try.  Like I said, the Accel caps are interchangeable
between the Olds & Chev (& Buick for that matter!)
- --
Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
Rat-Powered '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
mailto:lee@mergetel.com
Welland, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Dec 1997 11:11:48 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: engine similarities Question

If anyone wants to get a summit catalog for free, you can go to there
web site and request them at www.summitracing.com

This may help find the right parts your looking for instead of having
to borrow catalogs. :)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Fax (815) 235-6130
Home Page http://www.highland.cc.il.us
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few, or the one."

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 12:31:42 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Rebuild/Upgrade kits....

>do yourself a favor and do not go over 9.0:1 compression!!!  trust me on this
>one, i have 9.0:1 and it is absolutely on the virge of detonation all the
>time, even on 93 octane amoco.  i mean, im still trying to stop this stuff
>and it has almost 4000 miles on it!!

OK, but how did you figure out that 9.0:1 ratio? Did you measure the
chambers and piston dish, and then calculate it? Or is that what the
pistons are rated at? What is the year of the engine, and what heads is it
using (these could have been swapped at some point).

>its not bad, but you can still notice a
>little bit of pinging when you start off at hard throttle from a redlight or
>comlete stop.  i put in a 'distributor out of a '78 cutlass with a 260v8.
> these distributors have a faster advance rate, and are supposed to be good
>for racers.  but im thinking maybe its "too" quick for what i need.  im going

Bingo. In addition, your vacuum advance curve is going to be much quicker.
You need to recurve your distributor; $30 of parts and about an hour of
your time.

I say this because I get no pinging whatsoever, even when lugging the
engine on a hot day, from my 10.25:1 455, or my 9.5:1 403, even though the
403 runs 16' initial advance. So it is possible to run a high-compression
Olds V-8 on the street, on pump gas (93 Sunoco), with no pinging.

>to be purchasing headers, and having 2.5" exahst run, 8.8" msd wires, accel
>supercoil, and a ram air system (the air cleaner in the back of hot rod
>magazine) soon.  who knows, maybe the pinging will stop with the installation
>of this stuff!

None of the items you mention will stop the pinging; in fact, the better
exhaust might cause the car to run leaner, and result in worse pinging.

You can certainly add those parts, but if you want to stop the pinging,
you'll have to recurve the distributor for street use in your engine
(ignore what the racers are doing, unless, of course, you're going racing).
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 12:37:38 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Rebuild/Upgrade kits....

>> > What changed between '76 and '77 I wonder?
>>
>> The volume of the combustion chamber, and the advertised compression ratio:
>>
>> '73-'76= ª8  heads, 79cc chamber, 8.5:1 CR
>> '77-'80= ª3A heads, 75cc chamber, 8.0:1 CR
>
>If I wanted to bump the compression up a little bit, would I be better
>off to buy a different pair of heads, or just buy pistons with a
>shallower dish?  (It's possible to get pistons halfway between stock and
>full race, right?)

Well, if you're rebuilding the engine anyway, it's easier to order
different pistons and use the heads you have. OTOH, if the engine is
already assembled, it would be easier to swap heads.

You have to figure what compression you would like, what size combustion
chambers you have now, and determine which piston dish will let you reach
that goal. I think that after you figure out all these measurements, you'll
find that even a flat-top W-31 type piston will only give you a
9.5:1-10.2:1 compression ratio, which can be run on the street. At the very
least, the early high-compression pistons would have the shallowest dish,
and would give you around a 9.0:1 ratio with the later heads.

And then:

>Something's definately not right...the Porsche 911 3.3L V6 (non-turbo)
>is making 282bhp, and running at 11.3:1 compression. If a high-winding,
>air-cooled engine run fine at over 11:1 with 93 octane, but you can't
>with 9:1?  C'mon....that's ignition problems all the way.
>
>Here's a question for the more mechanically inclined...how would dual
>knock sensors (in the Porsche) operate better than just one?  Is it
>because of the high compression?

Well, the knock sensor, plus the aluminum construction of the heads, is the
key here. Combustion chamber design is also a factor.

As for dual knock sensors, there's no location on a flat-6 motor that would
adequately detect the detonation from both banks, so they have to use two.
On a V-design motor, you can get away with a single sensor in the intake or
the valley between the banks, and it'll be close enough to sense detonation
in either.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 12:25:41 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: 455 in a pickup

>>         Dustin, I am next to positive that you WILL have to do some mods
to get the Oldsie
>> mounting brackets to bolt to the Chevy frame....reason I say this is
this:  I just did the
>> exact opposite kind of swap that you wanna do - I put a Bigblock Chevy
motor into my '76

The frame should already have the holes drilled for the Olds frame mount;
you just have to determine which set of holes are the right ones (shop
manual may be of some help here).

>One point here, the early 70's Olds had different motor mounts, which
>were, I've been told, identical to the che*y mounts. (wouldn't know...
>never bothered to put one of ~those~ in a car!!!) I know my Delta was
>worlds different than the other Olds's I'd played with (and swapped
>engines with.......)

The mounts for the different models are all very different; in addition,
there are three holes for motor mounts on the side of the block, meaning
that there are two possible locations for mounting the motor mount on the
block.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 10:49:36 -0700
From: Tim Rudolph <trudolph@frii.com>
Subject: Distributor options

Hello,
  I've been toying with the idea of getting rid of the points distributor
on my car and was wondering what the opinion of the list might be.  I have
an Offenhauser 360 manifold currently and from what I've read HEI won't
clear with it.  Can anyone reccommend perhaps some different electronic
distributor that'll do as good as an HEI would but would fit the space I
have?  Or would I just be better off getting a new manifold such as an
Edelbrock Performer (wish they made an RPM one for BBs) and going with an
HEI?  The reason I'm not sure about a Performer is the combination of 3.91
gears and a pretty lopey cam (don't have any specs but it idles pretty
rough) so I didn't want to "suffocate" it but I do want something with some
really good low-end torque as it is going the be a driver.  Any input or
help would be greatly appreciated.

Tim Rudolph
trudolph@frii.com
'69 442 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Dec 1997 12:53:08 +0000
From: "Rick Copithorne" <Richardc@equitrac.com>
Subject: Re: 64 442 f/s

Do you friggin knock everyone on the list. You make it sound like you
are the brain behind the Oldsmobile...Sorry all of us dont know
everything about everything like you. And for your information the
Heads were decked 20 thou and Fel Pro Ultra Seal Head Gaskets were
used, and compression is 10.25:1...Any problems with the numbers call
Mondello Smart Ass.
1964 Olds 442 F-85
Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Dec 1997 12:59:52 -0500 (EST)
From: Shaun Miller <smille02@astro.ocis.temple.edu>
Subject: floor mats

I was wondering where you could get a nice pair of floor mats for a 89
calais with the Quad 4 engine?  I have this terrible pair now for 20
dollars, but dont want to pay 75 at the dealer.  what can i do for real
nice oem style mats.  Ill do anything for my Quad 4, the power behind
this monster!  thanks all.  If anyone is interested in the new york/long
island olds club email me back for info.



shaun
Q4 bible student

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Dec 1997 12:05:16 -0600
From: "Wayne L. Dake" <wldake@execpc.com>
Subject: To anyone interested....

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_00B8_01BD00AC.E1F44960
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hey All!!=20

Just thought some of you may be interested in a laptop.  A friend I work =
with is selling his for a real decent price.  If interested or want more =
info or know somebody who may be, please email him direct at =
eric.zarling@midata.com .  Here is some info on it:

Dell Latitude XPi P100

Pentium 100 MHz processor

32 Meg of Ram

2 - Hard Drives 1- 2 Gig and 1- 840 Meg

10" Dual Scan SVGA Display

3.5" Floppy Drive

1 - Lithium Battery

1 - AC Adapter

2 - Type II and 1 - Type III PCMCIA Slots

1 - Dell 4x external CD-ROM drive w/SCSI PC Card

1 - Xircom 10 Mb Ethernet/33.6 Modem

1 - Olicom Token Ring Card

Asking $1,400



Eric M. Zarling

Network Programming

(414)357-9772

eric.zarling@midata.com





Wayne
     Email        - wldake@execpc.com
     Homepage - www.execpc.com/~wldake
**********
A fanatic is one who can't change his mind and won't change the subject.
     -Winston Churchill
    =20

- ------=_NextPart_000_00B8_01BD00AC.E1F44960
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

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http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3Dªc0c0c0>
<DIV><FONT color=3Dª000000 face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D2>Hey All!! =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3Dª000000 face=3D"Comic Sans MS" =
size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D2>Just thought some of you may =
be=20
interested in a laptop.&nbsp; A friend I work with is selling his for a =
real=20
decent price.&nbsp; If interested or want more info or know somebody who =
may be,=20
please email him direct at <A=20
href=3D"mailto:eric.zarling@midata.com">eric.zarling@midata.com</A> =
.&nbsp; Here=20
is some info on it:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>
<P><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS">Dell Latitude XPi P100</FONT></P>
<P><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS">Pentium 100 MHz =
processor</FONT>&nbsp;</P>
<P><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS">32 Meg of Ram</FONT></P>
<P><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS">2 - Hard Drives 1- 2 Gig and 1- 840 =
Meg</FONT></P>
<P><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS">10&quot; Dual Scan SVGA =
Display</FONT></P>
<P><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS">3.5&quot; Floppy Drive</FONT></P>
<P><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS">1 - Lithium Battery</FONT></P>
<P><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS">1 - AC Adapter</FONT></P>
<P><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS">2 - Type II and 1 - Type III PCMCIA=20
Slots</FONT></P>
<P><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS">1 - Dell 4x external CD-ROM drive w/SCSI =
PC=20
Card</FONT></P>
<P><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS">1 - Xircom 10 Mb Ethernet/33.6 =
Modem</FONT></P>
<P><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS">1 - Olicom Token Ring Card</FONT></P>
<P><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS">Asking $1,400</FONT></P>
<P>&nbsp;</P></FONT><FONT face=3DTahoma size=3D1>
<P>Eric M. Zarling</P>
<P>Network Programming</P>
<P>(414)357-9772</P>
<P><A =
href=3D"mailto:eric.zarling@midata.com">eric.zarling@midata.com</A></P>
<P>&nbsp;</P>
<P>&nbsp;</P></FONT><FONT size=3D2></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3Dª000000 face=3D"Comic Sans MS"=20
size=3D2>Wayne<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
Email&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; - <A=20
href=3D"mailto:wldake@execpc.com">wldake@execpc.com</A><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;=20
Homepage - <A=20
href=3D"http://www.execpc.com/~wldake">www.execpc.com/~wldake</A><BR>****=
******<BR>A=20
fanatic is one who can't change his mind and won't change the=20
subject.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; -Winston=20
Churchill<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_00B8_01BD00AC.E1F44960--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Dec 1997 13:24:54 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Distributor options

- -----Original Message-----
From: Tim Rudolph <trudolph@frii.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, December 04, 1997 12:54 PM
Subject: Distributor options


>Hello,
>  I've been toying with the idea of getting rid of the points
distributor
>on my car and was wondering what the opinion of the list might be.

I've heard pros & cons, but Pertronix makes an electronic module that
replaces the points in your current distributor. It's $79 in Both Year
One and Mondello catalog. seen adds other places too.
The beauty of this, is you can still use your "matching numbers'
original distributor, if that is important to you.
If it works, it's a lot less exterme than replacing your manifold
$100+, getting an internally regulated alternator, $75?, buying a
rebuilt HEI $160+ etc.
You can even get two and keep one in the glove box for a spare :-).
Now that I've convinced you, please let me know how it works. :-)

Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass S convertible
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Dec 1997 10:45:19 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Capped

- ---Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com> wrote:
Ray, first off, I knew that all the GM V8s had that firing order
because I looked it up in my Chilton's manual just to be sure =B)  But
my best guess is that yes, that special cap woud in deed fit an Olds
distributor because if you look at Accel's performance cap & rotor
set, it fits all the different divisions

!!!!
The cap will fit...BUT...that special (and expensive!) cap is designed
for a Chevy with clockwise distributor rotation. The Olds rotates
counterclockwise. The 'special' cap would only neaten thing up on a
Chevy.....if you were to try it on an Olds the rerouted terminals
would be all wrong......just use a regular GM cap :)

===
John Pajak                            JSPajak@rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland  HTTP://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

65 Delta 88 2dr    70 Cutlass S 2dr       72 Cutlass conv
66 Toronado deluxe 70 Cutlass S W31       72 Delta 88 conv
69 Cutlass S 2dr   70 442 W30 conv        72 442 W30 conv
70 Cutlass S 2dr   71 Cutlass Supreme 2dr 86 Cutlass Supreme





_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 97 07:37:33 -0500
From: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
Subject: Olds History Center Moving Next Year

All,
I spoke w/ Helen Early about a month ago asking her if she would allow me
to post the OHC's address at the OCA web site.  She told me that they were
going to be moving to another location there in Lansing in the next 6
months.  So if during the first half of 1998 responses from them seem slow,
it is because if this.  The new location had not yet been determined as of
the begining of Nov.  Just a heads up.

 ---
| | | Brad Nicholson
| | | 1987 442 W-42
|/|\| 1994 Eighty Eight LSS
| | | Oldsmobile Club of America ª18984
 ---  Oldsmobile Centennial Club - Newest Chapter of OCA
(W) brad.nicholson@ssa.gov   (H) brad442@erols.com
Personal Web Page - http://www.erols/com/brad442
OCC Web Page - http://www.erols.com/brad442/occ
OCA Web Page - http://www.erols.com/brad442/oca

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Nov 1997 13:10:59 -0400
From: hitson@leadbelt.com
Subject: Re: 64 442 f/s

>Do you friggin knock everyone on the list. <snipped> compression is
10.25:1...Any problems with the numbers call
>Mondello Smart Ass.
>1964 Olds 442 F-85
>Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>
>
I obviously missed something. What started this?

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 97 14:50:22 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: Capped

John Pajak wrote:

..that special (and expensive!) cap is designed for a Chevy with clockwise
distributor rotation. The Olds rotates counterclockwise. The 'special' cap 
would
only neaten thing up on a Chevy.....if you were to try it on an Olds the
rerouted terminals would be all wrong...

     You're right about the rotation, John, but you actually _can_ use this
     cap on an Olds.  The 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 rotation translates into
     L-R-R-L-R-L-L-R in terms of left and right bank.  As you can see, this
     is the same forwards and backwards, so at least the wires will still
     all come out of the correct side of the cap if you reverse the
     rotation.  The only potential problem is the numbering of the
     terminals on each side of the cap.  If you can put up with the fact
     that the wires will still cross once they leave the cap (though they
     _won't_ cross from one side of the distributor to the other), you can
     use the wiring scheme shown below (note that the asterisk indicates
     the cylinder assignment for the reverse rotation).  Additionally, you
     will need to re-clock the distributor shaft so that the old number 3
     cylinder position (under the Chevy rotation) is now the number 1
     position.


                               ___
                              |  _|
                        ______| |_____
             3*    1   |_            _|    2    6*
                       __/          \__
             1*    3  |_              _|   4    8*
                       _|            |_
             7*    5  |__            __|   6    2*
                        _\          /_
             5*    7   |______________|    8    4*


     Can you do all this and make it work?  Sure

     Is it worth all the trouble?  Not to me.  I agree with your statement,
     just get a stock GM cap.

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 15:03:28 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Re: Capped

> The cap will fit...BUT...that special (and expensive!) cap is designed
> for a Chevy with clockwise distributor rotation. The Olds rotates
> counterclockwise. The 'special' cap would only neaten thing up on a
> Chevy.....if you were to try it on an Olds the rerouted terminals
> would be all wrong......just use a regular GM cap :)

        I think he's got me there...I forgot to check that
(rotation)...you'll have to forgive me, please, I've only had a half hour
of sleep in the past 32 hours  =B)
- --
Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
Rat-Powered '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
mailto:lee@mergetel.com
Welland, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 15:30:27 -0500
From: IRONMAN <jev114@email.psu.edu>
Subject: Re: floor mats

Shaun


i think fueling engineering has some with AJ Foyt crossing the line at 278 mph
in that 1100 horspower Quad 4 Powered Aeorotech Car. i saw some advertisements 
a
while back in REAL POWER magazine for them, they were limited time only, and
selling fast so not sure if you can still get them. all teh q4 guys probably
bought them up.


Ironman



At 12:59 PM 12/4/97 -0500, you wrote:

>

>I was wondering where you could get a nice pair of floor mats for a 89

>calais with the Quad 4 engine?  I have this terrible pair now for 20

>dollars, but dont want to pay 75 at the dealer.  what can i do for real

>nice oem style mats.  Ill do anything for my Quad 4, the power behind

>this monster!  thanks all.  If anyone is interested in the new york/long

>island olds club email me back for info.

>

>

>

>shaun

>Q4 bible student

>

>

<center><paraindent><param>out,out</param>Jeff Verkleeren

<bold><color><param>ffff,0000,0000</param>Scholar -- Gentleman  --  Judge
of Beautiful Women and Fine Whiskey

</color></bold></paraindent>Mechanical Engineering

Penn State University

</center>mailto:jev114@psu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Dec 1997 15:37:16 -0500
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: W30 compression

Oldsmopeople,
I came across a 1972 Olds Performance Guide that states the ACTUAL
compression ratio  of a 1970 W30 455 was 9.64 to 1. It also shows a maximum
clean compression of 11.148 to 1. Head gasket volume is listed as 5.32305
cc
dish volume as 1.430 cc, cylinder head volume as 69.75 cc and 91.71971 as
the combustion chamber volume.

Does anyone else have this or similar data to share.


The General

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 12:49:13 PST
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Olds People are Great!

For my wedding this weekend I had wanted to find a vintage car to drive
my new bride and myself from the reception. I tried several options but
none of them turned out. As a last resort I was going to clean up my '89
Town Car (what a heap! -looks good though) and have my best man drive
it.

On Saturday I received two (yes 2) JWOs in the mail. One of them was
addressed to a Larry Shultz a few blocks from my house. I ran it over to
give to him and we chatted in the rain for a moment. Before I left he
lifted up the corner on the car cover to show me a piece of his '48
Series 68 Oldsmobile (33,000 miles!).

The next day I stopped by and asked his wife if I might be able to hire
him for the event. He contacted me, and on a few days notice he has
rearranged his work schedule (he works two jobs) to do the wedding.

Aren't Olds people great!?

Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 07:51:53 -0500
From: jim meeks <jimmeeks@postoffice.worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: carpet  (Attn: Scott)

Ken's shop is in Winter Haven, Florida not Tampa.  Been there many times
for parts both new and used.

JIM


At 01:04 AM 12/4/97 +0000, you wrote:
>Scott wrote:
>
>>How can I get ahold of these guys (one of the few places I've
>>never heard of).  Would they have a molded carpet set for something as far
>>back as my '60?  Thanks in advance...
>>
>>Scott
>>1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98
>
>
>Specialty Olds
>1727 W. Cypress St.
>Tampa, FL   33606
>
>(941)  293-7966
>
>(Ask for Ken Reese - Good guy to deal with.)
>
>Doug Newman
>Columbus, MS
>1987 442
>
>http://www.442.com/newman.html
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 13:17:50 -0800
From: Erik Nowacki <enowacki@titan.com>
Subject: Rearenz, Update

Thanks for the information guys.

Special thanks to Joe Padavano for an excellent explanation of how the
axles are retained.  Lisa:  I won't be needing the page from the shop
manual, thanks for offering though.

The full story is that I had the driver's side rear wheel bearing replaced
at a local service station two weeks ago.  While driving to work on
Wednesday, the wheel wandered out of the housing, approximately 2ft, it
didn't completely remove itself from the car.  I had the car towed back to
the service station and talked to a somewhat redfaced manager.  He said
that they would investigate what had happened.

I got a call today from said service manager who stated that the axle must
have been worn to the point where the bearing did not fit as tightly as it
should.

Question:  Can the axle really wear in the area that holds the bearing?  It
would seem to me that the inside of the bearing is seated on the axle and
does not move.  How can the axle wear if there is no movement or friction
in that particular area of the axle.  I could be wrong, offcourse, it is
just one of those things that doesn't make sense when I first hear it.  I
have had a fair amount of work done at this particular service station over
the past seven years and never had a problem with their work or ethics
before, therefore I am inclined to believe what the service manager is
telling me, but on the other hand, I can't envision how the axle could wear
to the point where the axle is sliding out.

Thanks for your input/opinions.

Erik Nowacki
San Diego
72 Vista Cruiser

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Dec 1997 13:16:41 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: Capped

- ---"Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM> wrote:
You're right about the rotation, John, but you actually _can_ use this
cap on an Olds.  The 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 rotation translates into
L-R-R-L-R-L-L-R in terms of left and right bank.  As you can see, this
is the same forwards and backwards, so at least the wires will still
all come out of the correct side of the cap if you reverse the
rotation.  The only potential problem is the numbering of the
terminals on each side of the cap. <SNIP>

!!!!!!!!
     I thought it might possibly work.....I had tried to work it out
on paper and just gave up!

     On another note: has anyone changed a TPS in an electronic Qjet?
How difficult is it?

===
John Pajak                            JSPajak@rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland  HTTP://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

65 Delta 88 2dr    70 Cutlass S 2dr       72 Cutlass conv
66 Toronado deluxe 70 Cutlass S W31       72 Delta 88 conv
69 Cutlass S 2dr   70 442 W30 conv        72 442 W30 conv
70 Cutlass S 2dr   71 Cutlass Supreme 2dr 86 Cutlass Supreme








_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 13:35:57 -0800
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: Rapidfire Plugs

No, I wanted to try a set but they don't make Rapidfire's for Olds engines
that I can find.  The plug their manual references has about 1/4-1/2" too
much thread and would extend way down into the combustion chamber.  No
thanks!

I'm now using some NGK's (a colder plug than stock) with my MSD unit.

Greg Beaulieu wrote:

> Anyone here have experience with these? I seem to recall someone tried a
> set in a 307 -- Tom Lentz perhaps? I'm thinking about picking up a set
> for the Delta's 350. Original AC-Delco plug is a R46SX; is there a
> Rapidfire equivalent?
>
> Thanks in advance...
>
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada



- --
Tom Lentz, tlentz@ior.com                          '84 Hurst/Olds
http://www.ior.com/~tlentz                         '78 Cutlass Supreme
Network Admin, CPM Corp, Spokane, WA.              '78 Chev 1/2ton (Olds
350)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Dec 1997 15:40:12 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: Olds People are Great!

Thats uncanny! I just got back from Texas this weekend, and my
brother rented/borrowed a 70 442 from a friend of his for his
Honnymoon!, of course, I was drooling over the car because its my
dream car, but, at least he has good taste.  Guess it runs in the
family. :)

1977 Olds Cutlass Supreme 350 4bbl
1978 Olds Delta 88 Royale 350 4bbl

> For my wedding this weekend I had wanted to find a vintage car to drive
> my new bride and myself from the reception. I tried several options but
> none of them turned out. As a last resort I was going to clean up my '89
> Town Car (what a heap! -looks good though) and have my best man drive
> it.
>
> On Saturday I received two (yes 2) JWOs in the mail. One of them was
> addressed to a Larry Shultz a few blocks from my house. I ran it over to
> give to him and we chatted in the rain for a moment. Before I left he
> lifted up the corner on the car cover to show me a piece of his '48
> Series 68 Oldsmobile (33,000 miles!).
>
> The next day I stopped by and asked his wife if I might be able to hire
> him for the event. He contacted me, and on a few days notice he has
> rearranged his work schedule (he works two jobs) to do the wedding.
>
> Aren't Olds people great!?
>
> Brent Pinkstaff
> '70 Cutlass S
>
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Fax (815) 235-6130
Home Page http://www.highland.cc.il.us
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few, or the one."

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 16:33:18 -0500
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: ADMIN-Small suggestion-No flack please

> Don't worry man, if anyone starts diss'in GS's, I'll be ready to jump in
> and get old school on 'em,

Well, there's one of the things I have noticed on the list.  Even the
ribbing we give to other makes, I don't recall anyone bashing our Buick
or Poncho relatives.  Probably out of mutual respect.  You gotta admit,
those early 70's GSs and Goats are some primo pieces.  But, I still have
Oldsmoblile tattooed on my butt.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 97 16:56:51 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: Rearenz, Update

Erik Nowacki asked:

Question:  Can the axle really wear in the area that holds the bearing?  It
would seem to me that the inside of the bearing is seated on the axle and
does not move...

     I tend to agree with you, Erik.  I can't see how there could be any
     wear to speak of.  The only things that come to mind are:

     1)  You had indicated that the bearing had been replaced previously.
     Is it possible that when the original bearing went bad, the inner race
     started to spin on the axle?  It occurs to me that this should have
     been pretty obvious to whoever replaced the bearing the first time.

     2)  The replacement part was incorrect or incorrectly machined.
     Again, the person who replaced the bearing should have noticed that is
     was excessively loose (well, maybe not if it was still a light press
     fit).

     3)  The axle shaft was damaged in the bearing removal or replacement
     process.

     Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 16:57:19 -0600
From: Patrick Derkacz <patrickd@wwnet.com>
Subject: turbo 400 linkage

I just put a turbo 400 in my 69 442 conv., I am missing the linkage part
that mounts on the transmission itself(on the bolt that rotates to shift
gears)  and connects to the shifter cable.

If anyone could help me with this I would be grateful

patrickd@wwnet.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Dec 1997 16:11:49 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: turbo 400 linkage

Yes, go to a junkyard, they will charge you maybe all of $10.00 for
the whole linkage, if they want more, let me know and I can guarentee
I can get it for that price for you and mail it to you or something.
(I have been in this situation before, and know how much it sucks to
get so close and yet so far...:)

> I just put a turbo 400 in my 69 442 conv., I am missing the linkage part
> that mounts on the transmission itself(on the bolt that rotates to shift
> gears)  and connects to the shifter cable.
>
> If anyone could help me with this I would be grateful
>
> patrickd@wwnet.com
>

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Fax (815) 235-6130
Home Page http://www.highland.cc.il.us
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few, or the one."

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Dec 1997 17:14:43 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Rearenz, Update

- -----Original Message-----
From: Erik Nowacki <enowacki@titan.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, December 04, 1997 4:29 PM
Subject: Rearenz, Update


>snip>
>but on the other hand, I can't envision how the axle could wear
>to the point where the axle is sliding out.

Just a couple of guesses:
- - If it's a Chevy style rearend (did we ever establish that?), the "C"
clip could have broken, or was not put back in when the bearing was
replaced.
- - if it's an Olds style rearend, the only thing I can think of is the
4 retainer nuts weren't tightned, or worse, left off when the axle was
re-installed.
Either way, I would be asking the dealer some very specific questions.

Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass S convertible
OCAª 29770
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Dec 1997 16:26:09 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Danbury Mint '55 Super 88 Conv

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0070_01BD00D1.5484DC00
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Everyone,

I don'[t know if you care, but the Danbury Mint is offering a 1:24 scale =
model of a magnicent red & white 1955 Super 88 convertible.  It is =
equipped w/a spotlight & the obligatory spinner wheelcovers.  The cost =
is $105.  This is plenty high, but in line w/the other company's =
offerings on these things.  Payment is done in 4 installments so as not =
to break one all at the same time.

I have a number of the Danbury Mint cars & they are usually very nice.  =
The Franklin Mint makes models too, but they are a little more expensive =
& are not always as accurate as the Danbury Mint ones. =20

Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
Decatur, Alabama
'62 Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 convertible

- ------=_NextPart_000_0070_01BD00D1.5484DC00
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3Dªffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3Dª000000 face=3D"Lucida Calligraphy" =
size=3D2>Everyone,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3Dª000000 face=3D"Lucida Calligraphy" =
size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3Dª000000 face=3D"Lucida Calligraphy" size=3D2>I don'[t =
know if you=20
care, but the </FONT><FONT color=3Dª000000 face=3D"Lucida Calligraphy"=20
size=3D2>Danbury Mint is offering a 1:24 scale model of a magnicent red =
&amp;=20
white 1955 Super 88 convertible.&nbsp; It is equipped w/a spotlight =
&amp; the=20
obligatory spinner wheelcovers.&nbsp; The cost is $105.&nbsp; This is =
plenty=20
high, but in line w/the other company's offerings on these things.&nbsp; =
Payment=20
is done in 4 installments so as not to break one all at the same=20
time.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3Dª000000 face=3D"Lucida Calligraphy" =
size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3Dª000000 face=3D"Lucida Calligraphy" size=3D2>I have a =
number of the=20
Danbury Mint cars &amp; they are usually very nice.&nbsp; The Franklin =
Mint=20
makes models too, but they are a little more expensive &amp; are not =
always as=20
accurate as the Danbury Mint ones.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3Dª000000 face=3D"Lucida Calligraphy" =
size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3Dª000000 face=3D"Lucida Calligraphy" size=3D2>Bill=20
Culp&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <A=20
href=3D"mailto:bculp@HiWAAY.net">bculp@HiWAAY.net</A><BR>Decatur, =
Alabama<BR>'62=20
Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 =
convertible</FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0070_01BD00D1.5484DC00--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 17:29:56 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: ADMIN-Small suggestion-No flack please

Mike Rothe wrote:
>
> > Don't worry man, if anyone starts diss'in GS's, I'll be ready to jump in
> > and get old school on 'em,
>
> Well, there's one of the things I have noticed on the list.  Even the
> ribbing we give to other makes, I don't recall anyone bashing our Buick
> or Poncho relatives.  Probably out of mutual respect.  You gotta admit,
> those early 70's GSs and Goats are some primo pieces.  But, I still have
> Oldsmoblile tattooed on my butt.
>
> Mike Rothe

Uh, Mike, that was a piece of info I didn't really want to know.  :)
But(t) now you mention it, is it Old Engish scripting or freehand?

Sorry.  I couldn't resist that.  I do like the late 60s early 70s Gto's
and GS Buicks.  Olds still tops my list though.  I just like good
looking, good running iron.  I never did understand why I didn't like
very many Chevs though until I got on this list.  There's just too many
of them out there just alike.  I LIKE being an individual more than I do
joining in with the herd.  I guess that is one reason I work for myself.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 17:45:45 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: ADMIN-Small suggestion-No flack please

Mike Rothe wrote:
>
> > Don't worry man, if anyone starts diss'in GS's, I'll be ready to jump in
> > and get old school on 'em,
>
> Well, there's one of the things I have noticed on the list.  Even the
> ribbing we give to other makes, I don't recall anyone bashing our Buick
> or Poncho relatives.  Probably out of mutual respect.  You gotta admit,
> those early 70's GSs and Goats are some primo pieces.  But, I still have
> Oldsmoblile tattooed on my butt.
>
> Mike Rothe

UH, Mike, that was probably more info than I really wanted to know. :)
Is it written in Old Engish script or done freehand?
Just kidding!
  I have always liked the late 60s early 70s GTOs and GS Buicks. Olds
Cutlass/442s are still my first love. though.  But I like about any car
that looks good and runs good.   I didn't understand why I cared very
little about most Chevs until I joined this list.  There are just too
many of them around.  Just being another piece of clover in the field
makes you blend in too much, but be a dandelion in the same field and
everybody notices you.  :)

I like being a little different from the masses.  Guess that explains
why I work for myself.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 14:47:42 -0800
From: Erik Nowacki <enowacki@titan.com>
Subject: Re: Distributor options

>I've heard pros & cons, but Pertronix makes an electronic module that
>replaces the points in your current distributor. It's $79 in Both Year
>One and Mondello catalog. seen adds other places too.
>The beauty of this, is you can still use your "matching numbers'
>original distributor, if that is important to you.
>If it works, it's a lot less exterme than replacing your manifold
>$100+, getting an internally regulated alternator, $75?, buying a
>rebuilt HEI $160+ etc.

I got one of these units from Northern Autoparts for under $60.  I
installed it in my Ford 351C powered Mercedes and it ran like crap, stalled
and was very difficult to drive.  Then I spent another $50 at Sears for a
timing light.  The timing was WAYYYYY off.  It could have been bad before I
installed it, and the Pertronix installation probably made it worse.
Anyhow, after I set the timing to the proper setting, it runs like a dream
(if one is allowed to say that about a Ford/Benz on this list!).

The installation took me all of 15 minutes and that's because I had to go
back an forth to the garage to get tools.  I hated messing with those
points, I am so glad to be rid of them.

The Pertronix kit said to keep the resistor wire in place though, which
means that you are not feeding it 12 volts.  I don't know if this impairs
the performance or not, just thought I should mention it.

Summary:  Get the Pertronix kit from Northern Autoparts and save $20 and do
take the time to set the timing after you have installed the kit.

Good Luck

Erik Nowacki
San Diego
72 Vista Cruiser

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 17:51:59 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Double posting

Sorry folks about the double reply to Mike Rothe.  The computer
malfunctioned when the first one was sent and I didn't know it was in
Cyberspace or the email dumper.  Couldn't tell from here.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 14:53:32 -0800
From: Erik Nowacki <enowacki@titan.com>
Subject: Re: Rearenz, Update

>Just a couple of guesses:
>- If it's a Chevy style rearend (did we ever establish that?), the "C"
>clip could have broken, or was not put back in when the bearing was
>replaced.
>- if it's an Olds style rearend, the only thing I can think of is the
>4 retainer nuts weren't tightned, or worse, left off when the axle was
>re-installed.
>Either way, I would be asking the dealer some very specific questions.
>
It is an Olds style rear end where (according to Joe Padavano) the retainer
"collar" pressed in place between the wheel bearing and the flange.  It
appears the wheel bearing was not pressed in as hard as it should have
been, or that the axle was so worn that the bearing could not hold the axle
tightly enough.

I'll keep you posted on the future chapters of this saga.

Erik Nowacki
San Diego
72 Vista Cruiser

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª989
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