To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #949


oldsmobile-digest     Wednesday, November 12 1997     Volume 01 : Number 949



Re: Rear Defrost
Re: winterize (long!)
Re: Stolen Car
Re: winterize (long!)
Re: '84 Cruise Control
Re: Greetings
Re: Greetings
200-4R shift points
Cruise control brake switch
Re: winterize (long!)
Re: Greetings
Re: the Quad 442
Re: winterize (long!)
Re: More 70 442 parts needed
Re: 70 W-30 incorrect ª's
Re: the Quad 442
Re: Conv. frame
q4
transmission problem
Re: transmission problem
Re: transmission problem
Re: Greetings
Re: the Quad 442
Re: transmission problem
Re: starfire side trim panes
'69 HO 1/18th diecast
Re: the Quad 442
Re: Junk yard Find
Re: the Quad 442
72 cutlass exhaust tips
Re: 425 engines
Brakes :(
Re: 66 carb ª
Re: transmission problem
Re: 72 cutlass exhaust tips
Re: Brakes :(
RE: Conv. frame
RE: 72 cutlass exhaust tips
[none]
Re: '69 HO 1/18th diecast
Re: 57 OLDS J/2
63 starfire
Identifying engine blocks
Re: Brakes :(
Re: A Night At The Races
Hey all...
Re: Junk yard Find
Threats to Safety (long)
12" Disc Brakes
Good & Bad Lessons
Re: transmission problem
Ugh...
Re:
Re: Hey all...
Re: Good & Bad Lessons
Reverse lights are unemployed
answer to mirrors.
Re: Hey all...
500+ ?!?!?!?
Re: Ugh...

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 11:23:09 -0600
From: "Green, Andrew" <acg@datalogics.com>
Subject: Re: Rear Defrost

>Green, Andrew wrote:
>> I don't think there was any connection between the A/C and rear-defog
>> options; they have nothing particular in common
>
> That's not a correct statement.  From '70 to '72 the rear defogger
> switch was an integral part of the HVAC controls.

*gack*  I stand corrected. I should have thought of that, too, since the
kits I've got stuck in the basement all come with the correct appliques
for whatever dashboard they'll be installed in. One of them comes with a
replacement Power Antenna applique as well, since it shares the same
panel...

- --
Andrew C. Green             (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.            email: acg@datalogics.com
101 N. Wacker, Ste. 1800    http://www.datalogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301     Fax: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 12:35:50 -0500 (EST)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: winterize (long!)

In a message dated 97-11-09 08:35:50 EST, you write:

<< After fogging the engine, remove the sparkplugs, and pour an ounce of
 fresh oil into each cylinder, then crank the engine (w/ no plugs) for
 five seconds, and then replace the plugs. >>


WARNING!!!! DONOT DO THIS IF YOU VALUE YOUR WALLS, CLOTHES
FENDERWELLS, AND ANYTHING ELSE IN THE PATH OF THAT PLUGHOLE!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 11:39:37 -0600
From: "Green, Andrew" <acg@datalogics.com>
Subject: Re: Stolen Car

> Then called my insurance agent and he asked which car, the Olds
> or my wife's 97 Taurus, I told him the Cutlass and he said,
> "Why would anyone want to steal that car?" What an **sh*l*e.

Clueless, too. What does he think ranks in the Top 10 of most stolen
cars? (Here in Chicago I think differing years of Cutlass held multiple
positions, in fact...)
- --
Andrew C. Green             (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.            email: acg@datalogics.com
101 N. Wacker, Ste. 1800    http://www.datalogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301     Fax: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 12:45:32 -0500 (EST)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: winterize (long!)

In a message dated 97-11-09 08:35:50 EST, you write:

<< Remove battery, and preferrably store inside...but if the wife won't let
 you keep a 650 CCA Exide inside, set it on a block of wood, and store it
 in the garage.  Never set a battery on the ground...it'll drain it over
 the course of the winter (so I'm told).  When spring arrives, trickle
 charge the battery (2 amp) to 100%, and then re-install. >>


A couple things I have learned about batteries that I might add to this...

Its a wives tale that setting a battery on concrete or dirt or anything else
will drain the battery. The battery case is well insulated and if anything
were going to drain it, it would be the metal base its sets on in the car..

Also the average battery will naturally discharge when left alone at a
rate of between .5 to 1+% per day.  This can mean a discharge of over
30% a month on a good battery.  I would recommend a battery tender
that will electronically monitor and charge the battery over the entire
period it is connected. They can also be used to monitor several batteries
at once I have been told.  If not a tender I would recharge the battery on
a monthly basis.....TIM

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 13:01:03 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Subject: Re: '84 Cruise Control

Hi Andrew,

> >> Vacuum for the cruise goes through the firewall to the brake switch
> >> to disengage the cruise when you brake.
>
> Um, usually not vacuum; it's an electrical connection through the brake
> switch. When you step on the brake, it makes the connection for the

Actually, the electrical connection is the primary method of disengaging
the cruise.  The vacuum switch is there as a back-up, to bleed vacuum from
the servo, hopefully returning the throttle to rest.

Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 11:00:13 -0700
From: "Clarence R. Isaacks II" <ike.isaacks-denver@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Greetings

W30442CS@aol.com wrote:
>
> what mirrors do you need?    please reply steven.   w30442cs@aol.com
I'm looking for the sport mirrors found on the 442 either 70,71 or 72.
Painted or not would perfer remote units but if not that's ok.  Also the
tilt steering from a colum shift model 72, again color dark brown if
possible if not whatever

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 13:15:15 -0500
From: Joseph Gambaccini <jgambaccini@ci.richmond.va.us>
Subject: Re: Greetings

you are aware that the '70 442 sport mirrors are more of a rounder
"bullet" style - different than the '71 & '72 and only the LH mirror is
remote...

Clarence R. Isaacks II wrote:
>
> W30442CS@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > what mirrors do you need?    please reply steven.   w30442cs@aol.com
> I'm looking for the sport mirrors found on the 442 either 70,71 or 72.
> Painted or not would perfer remote units but if not that's ok.  Also the
> tilt steering from a colum shift model 72, again color dark brown if
> possible if not whatever

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 14:05:43 -0500
From: Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
Subject: 200-4R shift points

Yes, replace the governor if only shifting at 3600 RPM.  Get one for a
Monte Carlo SS or 442 which will shift the highest of any 200-4R governor
(5000 RPM).  I didn't realize you were watching your tach, just going by
speed.

Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma Plant
Transmission Division (4T60/65-E) - Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com
The statements and opinions expressed here are NOT an official
statement of General Motors or the GM Powertrain Division

'97 Chevy Blazer LT 4x4 4.3L V6    '96 DCM Impala SS 5.7L V8
'87 Olds Cutlass 442 307 V8        '61 GMC 1500 Fleetside 305 V6

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 14:06:04 -0500
From: Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
Subject: Cruise control brake switch

On GM cruise controls with vacuum servo, there is a big vacuum line and a
small line at the servo.  The small line is the vacuum supply, the big line
goes to the brake switch at the brake pedal.  This allows for a very rapid
release of cruise control even if purge solenoid sticks and cannot
electrically release.

Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma Plant
Transmission Division (4T60/65-E) - Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com
The statements and opinions expressed here are NOT an official
statement of General Motors or the GM Powertrain Division

'97 Chevy Blazer LT 4x4 4.3L V6    '96 DCM Impala SS 5.7L V8
'87 Olds Cutlass 442 307 V8        '61 GMC 1500 Fleetside 305 V6

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 13:52:05 -0600 (CST)
From: Thomas G Allen <mutga1@uxa.ecn.bgu.edu>
Subject: Re: winterize (long!)

On Sat, 8 Nov 1997, Dave Ward wrote:

> First thing, run the car down to a few gallons of gas, and add specified
> amount of fuel stabilizer (this keeps it from turing to varnish in your
> tank, lines, and carb).  Drive the car for a few miles to circulate it.

I usually like to fill the tank when I store a car.  This prevents any
rust from forming in the tank in humid areas like the midwest.  Just make
sure you add enough stabilizer to the tank.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 14:10:23 -0700
From: "Clarence R. Isaacks II" <ike.isaacks-denver@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Greetings

Clarence R. Isaacks II wrote:
>
> W30442CS@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > what mirrors do you need?    please reply steven.   w30442cs@aol.com
> I'm looking for the sport mirrors found on the 442 either 70,71 or 72.
> Painted or not would perfer remote units but if not that's ok.  Also the
> tilt steering from a colum shift model 72, again color dark brown if
> possible if not whatever

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 16:09:57 -0500 (EST)
From: Cnvrtbl442@aol.com
Subject: Re: the Quad 442

In a message dated 97-11-09 13:13:34 EST, you write:

<< Well unless your cars are something special, they would bow to my quad 4
any day of the week and there is nothing special about it, i have 1 friend
with a 93 SHO 5 sp, he bows to the al mighty Q4, another with an 89 even much
lighter SHO 5sp , he also bows to the Q4. among others on the street.
numerous friends with stock 5.0 's that read my taillights. another buddy
with an 89 formula 350 lots of mods, still can't hang. the biggest
misconception about quad 4's is that people ride in them and they don't seem
fast, i agree but put your torque monster next to it and see what happens.
gladly awaiting any reasonable challengers. >>

Would you care to share your experiences with any Grand Nationals and  Buick
Turbo T Types that you have run across, specifically the 86-87 variety...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 16:15:36 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: winterize (long!)

Cnvrtbl442@aol.com wrote:
>
> << After fogging the engine, remove the sparkplugs, and pour an ounce of
>  fresh oil into each cylinder, then crank the engine (w/ no plugs) for
>  five seconds, and then replace the plugs. >>
>
> WARNING!!!! DONOT DO THIS IF YOU VALUE YOUR WALLS, CLOTHES
> FENDERWELLS, AND ANYTHING ELSE IN THE PATH OF THAT PLUGHOLE!!

I forgot to mention that...first of all, don't use a *lot* of
oil...maybe half an ounce would do it.  Then cover the fenderwells with
a old beach towel (double it up), *then* crank the engine.  I wouldn't
worry about your garage walls...as long as the car isn't six inches from
the wall, there's nothing to worry about.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 16:41:49 -0500 (EST)
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: Re: More 70 442 parts needed

still awaiting reply have seat belts and heat pipe for (350) i think olds guy
ga

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 16:34:48 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: 70 W-30 incorrect ª's

>From: Djbrand407@aol.com
>Subject: >
>    I'm looking at a W-30 to buy and all the ª's check out other than the
>transmission and differential.

Hmmm, is there any other documentation other than the fact that the stamped
number on the engine block matches the VIN ª? Do you have a build-sheet for
the car? And does the "F" head have the casting number (not just letter)
appropriate for an "F" head?
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 17:02:19 -0500
From: IRONMAN <jev114@email.psu.edu>
Subject: Re: the Quad 442

At 04:09 PM 11/11/97 -0500, you wrote:

>In a message dated 97-11-09 13:13:34 EST, you write:

>

><<<< Well unless your cars are something special, they would bow to my quad 4

>any day of the week and there is nothing special about it, i have 1 friend

>with a 93 SHO 5 sp, he bows to the al mighty Q4, another with an 89 even much

>lighter SHO 5sp , he also bows to the Q4. among others on the street.

>numerous friends with stock 5.0 's that read my taillights. another buddy

>with an 89 formula 350 lots of mods, still can't hang. the biggest

>misconception about quad 4's is that people ride in them and they don't seem

>fast, i agree but put your torque monster next to it and see what happens.

>gladly awaiting any reasonable challengers. >>

>

>Would you care to share your experiences with any Grand Nationals and  Buick

>Turbo T Types that you have run across, specifically the 86-87 variety...

>

actually if you are so interested i can show you a picture of me beating an 87
grand national at the 60 or 80 foot mark. let me know i'll scan it for ya this
weekend and email it to ya.


thanks



<center><paraindent><param>out,out</param>Jeff Verkleeren

<bold><color><param>ffff,0000,0000</param>Scholar -- Gentleman  --  Judge
of Beautiful Women and Fine Whiskey

</color></bold></paraindent>Mechanical Engineering

Penn State University

</center>mailto:jev114@psu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 17:35:46 -0800
From: JFOWLER@capecod.net
Subject: Re: Conv. frame

W30442CS@aol.com wrote:
>
> my car does not have bolts where you described, there rivets.  ???  steven.
> w30442cs@aol.com
I should have said rivets.  Are they available, or can they be
installed?  I'd hate to have to replace the entire frame.  Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 17:40:42 -0500 (EST)
From: Shaun Miller <smille02@astro.ocis.temple.edu>
Subject: q4

i have an 89 calais with the quad 4 engine.  (limited edition only 200
made in black).  I can attest to the quad 4's speed.  it doesent fly
until you rev it up to about 4-4500 rpms.  I have beaten mustangs and
love the look on their face when they get beat by a four cylinder.  It is
not stock though.  It has cams and sprockets found in the rocketparts
catalog.  You cannot get the sense of these cars until you own one.  Any
one have experiences with the w41 achievas?  Lets rock pony cars!!  with
about 7000 rpm lets see who wins!?!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 17:10:22 -0600 (CST)
From: Rich Meyers <richbmeyers@CCTR.UMKC.EDU>
Subject: transmission problem

I recently bought my '84 Cutlass.  The transmission has acted funny ever
since I bought it but since I got a good deal I don't really care.  My goal
now is to figure out what's wrong.  First off the car has 159,000 miles and
a 307.  Here's what it does.  It shifts once at 15mph, then again at 25mph
and at 35mph it shifts for the final time.  During this final shift the
rpm's drop around 1000rpm's, according to my somewhat accurate stock rpm
gauge, and the car bogs and pings leading me to believe that it has skipped
a gear.  The only time when it seems to try to shift okay is first thing in
the morning.  Even then it shifts at 15,25,30 and 35mph and it only does it
once.  I checked the fluid and it seems to be slightly overfilled, but I
don't know if that would cause this problem.  As of this point the car is
stock and odds are this transmission is factory installed.  Is there
anything I can fix or should I just replace the transmission.  I don't know
what types of transmissions were offered when my car was built, but the
indicator has 1,2 and Drive.
One other thing is that this car has amazing power for how many miles it
has.  I can readily spin that right rear even with 150 pounds of sand in the
trunk and on dry pavement.  Also, the Super Shops in town said they could
get headers for my car for around $85 and they said they were made by
Flowtech.  Has anyone used these headers?
Thanks for your help.  Oldsmobile Forever!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 16:38:15 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: transmission problem

It shifts once at 15mph, then again at
> 25mph
> and at 35mph it shifts for the final time.  During this final shift
> the
> rpm's drop around 1000rpm's, according to my somewhat accurate stock
> rpm
> gauge, and the car bogs and pings leading me to believe that it has
> skipped
> a gear.  The only time when it seems to try to shift okay is first
> thing in
> the morning.  Even then it shifts at 15,25,30 and 35mph and it only
> does it
> once.
Sounds like it's engaging 3rd gear and the torque convertor clutch at
the same time?  Any thoughts?

The pinging and bogging might be related to an engine problem, instead.
Hard to say.  I'll let the thread go a bit longer and see what happens,
and keep it in the back of my mind till then.



- --
Charley Buehner         Sidney  Montana
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
81 Cutlass 425     Rockit 1
70 Buick GS455   BT UR 4D
               ... The Heartbeat of America???  It's in my mirror.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 18:53:12 -0500
From: "G. Douglas Burton" <postman@writeme.com>
Subject: Re: transmission problem

Well Rich, welcome to the world of the LTC (Lockup Torque Converter)!  I've
owned several '84's and this is fairly normal considering the number of
miles it has on it.  You probably have a THM-250, which is a light duty 3
speed  tranny.  The V8 models I've owned and driven of this vintage do lock
the torque converter a little early for my liking.  (The V6 models lock at
40 MPH.)  The easiest fix is to disable the LTC, which involves either
installing a switch into the LTC circuit, or totally disconnecting it
altogether.  The first choice will give you the option of switching in the
LTC for highway driving if you want to.  Another thing which happens to
this model with high miles is that the plastic end of the speedo cable
twists off, leaving you with no speedometer reading.  When that happens,
and it will, you will see that the LTC no longer locks up at all.  Reason
for that is the speed sensor on the speedo no longer works and so the
computer will no longer send the signal to lock up the torque converter.
My Cutlass is currently in that condition, and I was having problems with
the LTC locking up prematurely, so now it doesn't lock up at all, which is
fine with me!  Hope this helps...

Just a message from Doug
http://www.seidata.com/~gdburton


At 05:10 PM 11/11/97 -0600, Rich Meyers wrote:
>I recently bought my '84 Cutlass.  The transmission has acted funny ever
>since I bought it but since I got a good deal I don't really care.  My goal
>now is to figure out what's wrong.  First off the car has 159,000 miles and
>a 307.  Here's what it does.  It shifts once at 15mph, then again at 25mph
>and at 35mph it shifts for the final time.  During this final shift the
>rpm's drop around 1000rpm's, according to my somewhat accurate stock rpm
>gauge, and the car bogs and pings leading me to believe that it has skipped
>a gear.  The only time when it seems to try to shift okay is first thing in
>the morning.  Even then it shifts at 15,25,30 and 35mph and it only does it
>once.  I checked the fluid and it seems to be slightly overfilled, but I
>don't know if that would cause this problem.  As of this point the car is
>stock and odds are this transmission is factory installed.  Is there
>anything I can fix or should I just replace the transmission.  I don't know
>what types of transmissions were offered when my car was built, but the
>indicator has 1,2 and Drive.
>One other thing is that this car has amazing power for how many miles it
>has.  I can readily spin that right rear even with 150 pounds of sand in the
>trunk and on dry pavement.  Also, the Super Shops in town said they could
>get headers for my car for around $85 and they said they were made by
>Flowtech.  Has anyone used these headers?
>Thanks for your help.  Oldsmobile Forever!
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 18:56:02 -0500 (EST)
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Greetings

i have them,  colum also,   and colum is brown.   was this for a vista?,  i
have two of them  here for parts if interested.       steven.
     w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 19:21:56 -0500
From: Olds Mobile <dmtaylor@tiac.net>
Subject: Re: the Quad 442

r buddy
> with an 89 formula 350 lots of mods, still can't hang. the biggest
> misconception about quad 4's is that people ride in them and they don't seem
> fast, i agree but put your torque monster next to it and see what happens.
> gladly awaiting any reasonable challengers. >>
>
Well, I won't waste my time comming to you but if you are ever in New
Hampshire look me up. I have a very unspecial 83 T_top cutlass with a un
modified 403 auto and I blew the doors off a 89 olds quad 4  standard
more than once. The first time i wasn't even activly looking for a
race.  He takes me off the line but after watching him jump up and down
shifting through the gears i just pass him in second.
p.s  it was an international edition. with all the fancy flags etc.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 19:25:04 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: transmission problem

G. Douglas Burton wrote:
>
> Doug complaining about his three speed...
>
> At 05:10 PM 11/11/97 -0600, Rich Meyers wrote:
> >
> >Rich complaining about his three speed...

Jason complaining about his three speed:

Well, the story is long, but I'll make it short.  Your car has the
THM-200-C (the pan under the car says "METRIC", right?).  This tranny is
notoriously weak.  I have one and works great.  It, too, has the TCC
(Torque Converter Clutch, a fancy name for the LTC).  And...it has the same
symptoms yours does.  You can disconnect the TCC or put in a switch.  I'm
still researching how to put in a switch, that's what I'd like to do,
actually, but I don't know about all the little technicalities, like what
happens if I'm in first gear going like 5 mph.  If I flip the switch, the
TCC won't engage, right?  The transmission will still work like normal, if
I leave the switch flipped, right?

Regarding your bit about the 307.  Yes, it is a very powerful motor for
what it's rated.  No one realizes that it feels very frisky.  It'll even
take a 5.0, in stock form.  Yeah, maybe if the 5.0 is on the back of a
tow-truck...where a lot of them are...sorry Mustang guys!  :-)  I have the
posi rear, so they won't spin off the line, but I have to watch out in the
wet weather!  If I'm the only person in the car, the rear-end will shoot
right out from under me (it's the power of the 307, not my foot, honest)!
:-0

Anyway, I'll see about this switch and report if I ever get it to work.

Does our Andy Green know anything about _transmission_electronics_ ?  ;-)
_____________________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.erols.com/adcockjk

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 19:45:49 -0500 (EST)
From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: starfire side trim panes

In a message dated 97-11-11 12:51:02 EST, you write:

>
>  I have heard that someone is reproing the aluminum side trim panels for
>  a 1962 Starfire.  Anyone got a number or address?
>
   Fusick Automotive is doing these, just talked with them today and the
first sample is being sent to them now.  1-860-623-1589

Everett
OCAª1961   1961 Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 97 19:45:51 EST
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: '69 HO 1/18th diecast

     Thought I'd pass this on.  In the JC Penny Christmas catalog on pg. 652
there is the 1/18 diecast 1969 Hurst Olds for 19.99.   Realizing that not
everyone gets their catalog,  Here is the tel.ª and part ª ...er, I mean
catalog ª to order it.

       1-800-222-6161      ª XU 655-6393 A


     Glenn
     '69 4-4-2


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 20:00:10 -0500
From: evans1@serv01.net-link.net
Subject: Re: the Quad 442

Hi,

For what it's worth, the Q4 guy that posted this is no longer on the list......





>r buddy
>> with an 89 formula 350 lots of mods, still can't hang. the biggest
>> misconception about quad 4's is that people ride in them and they don't seem
>> fast, i agree but put your torque monster next to it and see what happens.
>> gladly awaiting any reasonable challengers. >>
>>
>Well, I won't waste my time comming to you but if you are ever in New
>Hampshire look me up. I have a very unspecial 83 T_top cutlass with a un
>modified 403 auto and I blew the doors off a 89 olds quad 4  standard
>more than once. The first time i wasn't even activly looking for a
>race.  He takes me off the line but after watching him jump up and down
>shifting through the gears i just pass him in second.
>p.s  it was an international edition. with all the fancy flags etc.
>
>


Mike Evans
Richland, MI
evans1@net-link.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 02:17:17 -0500
From: Sylvan Williams <lsylvanw@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Junk yard Find

Robert Schinkel wrote:

> Today in I went yard hunting for Olds parts and came across a yard just
> filled with OLD OLD car many of them oldsmobile from as early as the
> twenties.
>
> What I did find was a few Detla's from 67-71 and even some Dynamic 88's and
> starfires
> I don't know much about the old cars or the big cars but if there is
> something some one is in need of please let me know.
>
> I'll be there quite a bit in the next few weeks ...... I'm buying all the
> 425's and 455 from the Delta
>
> The yard was full of old Coupes and wood wheel cars of all makes and models
>
> Anyways E me direct if you want me to look for something. I 'm more then
> happy to help.
>
> Robert Schinkel
> docbob@caninet.com
>
> Oh and there was only one 71 Cutlass and one 68 Cutlass if anyone want me
> to look for any of those pieces let me know
>
> Bob

I'm looking for a rear bumper for a '68 Cutlass in good shape with no dents.
Replies from anyone are appreciated

- --
L. Sylvan Williams
Bradley College of Electrical Engineering
105 Huntington La.
Blacksburg, Va  24060
(540)-961-6181
'68 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 20:32:19 -0500
From: IRONMAN <jev114@email.psu.edu>
Subject: Re: the Quad 442

>

>For what it's worth, the Q4 guy that posted this is no longer on the 
list......


wrong again buddy i'm right here! I love quad 4's just like you.


>

>

>

>

>

>>r buddy

>>> with an 89 formula 350 lots of mods, still can't hang. the biggest

>>> misconception about quad 4's is that people ride in them and they don't 
seem

>>> fast, i agree but put your torque monster next to it and see what happens.

>>> gladly awaiting any reasonable challengers. >>

>>>

>>Well, I won't waste my time comming to you but if you are ever in New

>>Hampshire look me up. I have a very unspecial 83 T_top cutlass with a un

>>modified 403 auto and I blew the doors off a 89 olds quad 4  standard

>>more than once. The first time i wasn't even activly looking for a

>>race.  He takes me off the line but after watching him jump up and down

>>shifting through the gears i just pass him in second.

>>p.s  it was an international edition. with all the fancy flags etc.

>>

>>

>

>

>Mike Evans

>Richland, MI

>evans1@net-link.net

>

>

>

<center><paraindent><param>out,out</param>Jeff Verkleeren

<bold><color><param>ffff,0000,0000</param>Scholar -- Gentleman  --  Judge
of Beautiful Women and Fine Whiskey

</color></bold></paraindent>Mechanical Engineering

Penn State University

</center>mailto:jev114@psu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 17:36:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: PSHENG@scuacc.scu.edu
Subject: 72 cutlass exhaust tips

what are the correct exhaust tips for a '72 cutlass supreme and where can
I get them?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 19:55:44 -0500
From: "W-MACHINES" <W-MACHINES@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 425 engines

I have a '67 hi compression 425 (disassembled) for sale if anyone's
interested.....

Kurt     W-MACHINES@prodigy.net
'65 JetStar 1 4-speed                  '70 Toronado GT W-34 4-sale
'66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed       '92 Achieva SCX W-41
'66 442 F-85 Deluxe factory L-69  '90 Trofeo

- ----------
> From: Edward J. Hufnagel <ejhufnagel@juno.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Ratty Cutlass
> Date: Monday, November 10, 1997 7:34 AM
>
>
>
> >Yeah, GM did LOTS of stupid shtuff over the years. they put 260's in,
> >too, does
> >that mean we should imitate them? Of course not!
> >
> >If you want to show 455-boy the finer points of Olds Power, I suggest
> >you
> >direct your attentions to a nice 425 mill. That would be the OLDS 425
> >engine,
> >of '65-67 vintage. Anyone else have one around there? Thought not.
> >--
>
>      I have one.  Mine is in my Delta, circa 1966. And now I have an
> owners manual that identifies it as a Hi Perf 2 bbl.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 21:01:03 -0500 (EST)
From: Patrick Rose <prose@email.unc.edu>
Subject: Brakes :(

I took my car to Mineke today. They said that the brakes hadn't
been serviced in a while and it would cost $750 (after a $50 discount).
The car needs new everything, it seems. I guess that's what I get for only
paying $600 for it, but I love the car and I was planning to restore it.
Is there any way I could lower the price? I don't have that kind of money.
I really have enjoyed being on the list and chatting with you guys, but it
looks like my restoration is going to come to a halt pretty fast. I'm
trying to find friends in the business to help lower the price but it
looks like the Cutlass is going to be parked for a while. If anyone knows
anyone near the Chapel Hill/Durham area they would recommend, let me know.
Thanks for all your advice and wonderful help. I'm going to put the new
stereo speaker in anyway, though. Heck, that's important, too.


Pat
Chapel Hill, NC
prose@email.unc.edu
'68 Cutlass S (sick)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 19:41:42 -0500
From: "W-MACHINES" <W-MACHINES@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 66 carb ª

First note that thru '65 nearly all Rochester carbs had ids on tags, and
'66-up were stamped on the side of the carb.  Probably the most noteable
Olds exception to this is the numbers on tags on the '66 Tri-Carbs.
I agree something must be mixed up. Of course *anything's* possible!
Generally there are exceptions, but the following applies:
The next to the last digit must be a 5 to be an Olds carb.  1 is Ch**vy
The last digit odd is manual, even is auto
Third digit is year, 2 is '64-'69
Fourth digit is last digit of model year.
Fifth digit is carb type

Kurt     W-MACHINES@prodigy.net
'65 JetStar 1 4-speed                  '70 Toronado GT W-34 4-sale
'66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed       '92 Achieva SCX W-41
'66 442 F-85 Deluxe factory L-69  '90 Trofeo

- ----------
> From: Chris Brown Witt <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
> To: me from myself <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>; oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 66 carb ª
> Date: Saturday, November 08, 1997 10:26 PM
>
> Subject: Need Help identifying my Carb 1966 Delta88
>
>         Looking at my carb I found a circle stamped in the metal with the
> number 7020715. I don't know if this is the famous "tag" and also I can't
> identify the carb from the ones listed in the chassis service manual 1966
or
> the list Chris Witt sent to us of available carbs. Please any help is
> appreciated. Keep in mind my car is an Export version (low compression).
> =====================
> That round tag near the front would be where the '66 and some '67's bear
the ID
> ª. Has Dylsexia transposed a couple ª's? I'm used to 7026xxx for 1966 and
> 7027xxx for 1967 carbs, like yours might be 7027015 ? That sounds like a
'66 or
> '67 number.
> --
> Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing,
MI]
> *the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 20:49:13 -0600 (CST)
From: Rich Meyers <richbmeyers@CCTR.UMKC.EDU>
Subject: Re: transmission problem

At 07:25 PM 11/11/97 -0500, you wrote:
>G. Douglas Burton wrote:
>>
>> Doug complaining about his three speed...
>>
>> At 05:10 PM 11/11/97 -0600, Rich Meyers wrote:
>> >
>> >Rich complaining about his three speed...
>
>Jason complaining about his three speed:
>
>  You can disconnect the TCC or put in a switch.
>_____________________________
>
>Jason K. Adcock
>mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
>http://www.erols.com/adcockjk
>
How do I go about disconnecting this until I can fix it right?
What would I have to do to get it good as new? New Transmission?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 21:51:35 -0500
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: 72 cutlass exhaust tips

At 05:36 PM 11/11/97 -0700, you wrote:
        Cutlass Supremes did not have the availabilty of any Exhaust tips.
The Hurst/Olds and the 442 had them only. The 72 Cutlass Supreme had plain
turned down pipe.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts


>what are the correct exhaust tips for a '72 cutlass supreme and where can
>I get them?
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 21:55:22 -0500
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Brakes :(

At 09:01 PM 11/11/97 -0500, you wrote:
Pat

        Find a Autozone and purchase the parts yourself and save $600. The
whole works should cost you no more than $150 for the parts. Their master
cylinders are under $30 and the wheel cylinders are $20-24 ea. and the brake
shoes are like $12.99. So it might be just slightly more than $150. It's an
easy job to redo the brake system.

Jim Chermack

>I took my car to Mineke today. They said that the brakes hadn't
>been serviced in a while and it would cost $750 (after a $50 discount).
>The car needs new everything, it seems. I guess that's what I get for only
>paying $600 for it, but I love the car and I was planning to restore it.
>Is there any way I could lower the price? I don't have that kind of money.
>I really have enjoyed being on the list and chatting with you guys, but it
>looks like my restoration is going to come to a halt pretty fast. I'm
>trying to find friends in the business to help lower the price but it
>looks like the Cutlass is going to be parked for a while. If anyone knows
>anyone near the Chapel Hill/Durham area they would recommend, let me know.
>Thanks for all your advice and wonderful help. I'm going to put the new
>stereo speaker in anyway, though. Heck, that's important, too.
>
>
>Pat
>Chapel Hill, NC
>prose@email.unc.edu
>'68 Cutlass S (sick)
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 22:08:45 -0500
From: Dan Miller <dsm137@gti.net>
Subject: RE: Conv. frame

Try your nearest Auto Top repair place...they "should" help you out with the
rivets.

Dan.

- ----------
From: JFOWLER@capecod.net[SMTP:JFOWLER@capecod.net]
Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 1997 8:35 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Conv. frame

W30442CS@aol.com wrote:
>
> my car does not have bolts where you described, there rivets.  ???  steven.
> w30442cs@aol.com
I should have said rivets.  Are they available, or can they be
installed?  I'd hate to have to replace the entire frame.  Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 22:06:05 -0500
From: Dan Miller <dsm137@gti.net>
Subject: RE: 72 cutlass exhaust tips

just a tail pipe..that's it!!

Dan.

- ----------
From: PSHENG@scuacc.scu.edu[SMTP:PSHENG@scuacc.scu.edu]
Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 1997 12:36 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 72 cutlass exhaust tips

what are the correct exhaust tips for a '72 cutlass supreme and where can
I get them?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 22:10:27 -0500 (EST)
From: Shaun Miller <smille02@astro.ocis.temple.edu>
Subject: [none]

for the guy who thinks his cutlass can beat this q4 i wait for the
chance.  I confess though its not even near stock.  rocketparts catalog
was raided.  It all depends on whats done to your car.  dont downplay the
power of this car or youll get smoked.  I know mustang headlights all to
well.  Either way an olds wins, thats all that matters!!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 21:22:48 -0600
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: '69 HO 1/18th diecast

- -----Original Message-----
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>

>     Thought I'd pass this on.  In the JC Penny Christmas catalog on pg.
652
>there is the 1/18 diecast 1969 Hurst Olds for 19.99.   Realizing that not
>everyone gets their catalog,  Here is the tel.ª and part ª ...er, I mean
>catalog ª to order it.
>
>       1-800-222-6161      ª XU 655-6393 A
>
You can also order it on line at:
http://www.jcpenney.com/jshopping/jcpenney/collections/toys/index.htm

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 22:38:27 -0500 (EST)
From: Mr57olds@aol.com
Subject: Re: 57 OLDS J/2

docbob,  I am interested in the J-2 intake and carb.  where are you located,
 what condition,  and how much?????
'54 olds 88
'57 olds super 88
'64 cutlass coupe
'64 442 convertable

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 19:30:34 -0000
From: "ROBERT J STEINMANN" <centuryair@prodigy.net>
Subject: 63 starfire

I have a 63 Starfire conv. If anyone else out there has one lets talk .
I have been lookinng for deluxe wheelcovers. I wannt to buy yhem from a
private party Who knows the ones I am talking about. I also have a 63 parts
car. I may be willing to trade parts for the hubcaps

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 22:45:47 -0500 (EST)
From: Sking4me@aol.com
Subject: Identifying engine blocks

I am searching in my local salvage yards for a 1968-69, 455 out of a
Toronado.  I am wondering what block casting numbers to look for to help me
identify that it is really from a 1968-69 455.  Any help would be
appreciated.

Please e-mail me at Sking4me@aol.com or phone at 920-766-6486.

Thank you

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 22:48:36 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: Brakes :(

Patrick Rose wrote:

> I took my car to Mineke today. They said that the brakes hadn't
> been serviced in a while and it would cost $750 (after a $50 discount).
> The car needs new everything, it seems. I guess that's what I get for only
> paying $600 for it, but I love the car and I was planning to restore it.
> Is there any way I could lower the price? I don't have that kind of money.
> I really have enjoyed being on the list and chatting with you guys, but it
> looks like my restoration is going to come to a halt pretty fast.

Can't make the scene 'cause you don't got the green...(been there, done
that, got the brochure!)

Don't take this the wrong way, but I think Mineke is taking you through
the cleaners!  By that I mean that they are going to extremes to make
you part with your wallet's insulation!

A brake job is not a terribly hard thing, even though bending steel
lines can test one's patience.  As Mr. Chermack said, try a place like
Autozone...they could cut you a deal on parts, and if have the basic
hand tools, I suggest doing the work yourself.  About two months ago, I
had to completely replace the entire brake system on my '78 Delta 88 (it
needed everything aside from master cyl.).  I'm no Class A mechanic, but
I am mechanically inclined, and I found it fairly easy...the toughest
part was trying to bend the steel lines without kinking them (thank God
they're cheap!).

If Autozone can't give you a more reasonable number, try the local
wrecker...(or El Junque Yarde as some call it).  Most GM cars from the
late '70s through mid '80s had generic parts on them...in most cases the
rotors, drums, pads, shoes, calipers, wheel cyl.'s (you get the point)
are a dime a dozen, and shouldn't be that expensive.  I suggest visiting
the local El Junque Yarde for the master cylinder, proportioning valve,
rotors and drums...they won't be new and shiny, but at least they'll
work, and will save you a decent chunk of change.  I'd be careful about
buying calipers or wheel cyl.'s from a 'Yarde', but if you do, ask them
to open the bleeder screws *first*.

If you were to only buy the pads, shoes, calipers, whl. cyl.'s, and
lines from Autozone, and the rest from a junk yard, you could likely
build yourself a brake system for under $100.00, if not less.  It's not
the parts that are expensive...it's the labour that kills!

S. Dave Ward

'78 Delta 88 (350 4bbl.)
'85 Delta 88 (307 4bbl.)
'91 GMC 4x4  (305 TBI)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 20:19:11 -0500
From: jeff antonucci <antonj@erols.com>
Subject: Re: A Night At The Races

Great story!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 23:00:26 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Hey all...

Well, it's bound to happen, so here it is:

Hey...  I'm Jerry, I own an 87 Cutlass Supreme with the V8, I used to
drive a Ford (sigh) 77 Mustang II.....

So how big is this list??  (Hoping I'm not alone here)
- --
             Jerry Christopher
    ___       HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
___/.o \__, Lost Pony  Round-Up
=O------0=   HTTP://WWW.GeoCities.Com/MotorCity/Downs/2169

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 18:03:28 -0700
From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Subject: Re: Junk yard Find

Uh, Robert,

Care to tell us where this treasure trove is?
Jest curious...
cf

>Robert Schinkel wrote:
>
>> Today in I went yard hunting for Olds parts and came across a yard just
>> filled with OLD OLD car many of them oldsmobile from as early as the
>> twenties.
>>
>> What I did find was a few Detla's from 67-71 and even some Dynamic 88's and
>> starfires
>> I don't know much about the old cars or the big cars but if there is
>> something some one is in need of please let me know.
>>
>> I'll be there quite a bit in the next few weeks ...... I'm buying all the
>> 425's and 455 from the Delta
>>
>> The yard was full of old Coupes and wood wheel cars of all makes and models
>>
>> Anyways E me direct if you want me to look for something. I 'm more then
>> happy to help.
>>
>> Robert Schinkel
>> docbob@caninet.com
>>
>> Oh and there was only one 71 Cutlass and one 68 Cutlass if anyone want me
>> to look for any of those pieces let me know

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 19:17:05 -0700
From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Subject: Threats to Safety (long)

I'm sitting a little bored in a hotel restaurant and thought that some of
you might benefit from some hard won experiences, I've picked up with my
old car through the years.

There's pretty consistent talk of speed on the list and I like it as much
as the next guy, but I thought the odd note of caution might save some of
you from nerve wracking troubles I've run into over the years. Hope this
doesn't strike you as borrowing trouble, but here goes:

1) After about 200,000 miles, I broke my left lower front A Arm. It was $$
to fix. The break happened on a twisty country road up by Big Bear in the
mountains semi-near L.A.. Lucky for me it broke on an inward turn, not
outward, or I might have gone hurtling down the original Randy Mantooth
cliff. If this part breaks, the car basically loses a wheel support and
skids to a halt on three wheels and the frame for a skid pad. Not fun.
Think about this the next time you're doing 90 mph and extolling the
virtues of the American V8. The motors are great, just be sure your
suspension is up to the stresses and strains of that kind of duty.

2) At about 250,000 mile, I broke the right front lower A Arm. Little body
damage, fixable. But this time I had a kind of warning. What I want you to
know:

The key symptom: very "soft" or strange feeling steering when I knew the
fluid was topped up and the rest of the system was solid. If you feel this,
slow down, slowly _in a straight line_ and come to a stop.

What was happening at 50mph, was the ball joint housing in the A Arm was in
process of breaking. It didn't completely break until I was off the freeway
and on a 25mph road, I guess God likes Oldsmobiles. Again the car slid to a
halt on three legs and an impromptu frame skid.

3) One Christmas morning maybe about 275,000 miles or so, my retrofitted
sway bar had tweaked the outer rear suspension arms enough to make one
break and let the rear axle loose. Turns out the shop that put it in should
have used some spacers between the bar and the suspension arm it was bolted
to so as to avoid new stresses on old suspension pieces. I didn't sue, but
sure was mad. The axle broke loose and the car slumped down on the
remaining members. I was in the junkyard within two days. So now I'm
looking for boxed rear control arms and new pieces if I can find 'em.

Key symptom: No warning at all, but I should have noticed that the sway bar
was extra tight against the arm and bending it. Dumb on my part.

Message here is simple: Many of our cars are old.  While new, or if low
mileage, I guess you could still drive 'em at 120+mph. If you have high
mileage, like mine, or if your car's been driven hard -- think twice about
heading for the salt flats. The car may leave you stranded or worse.

Hope this isn't too much of a downer, just trying to save some of you from
troubles I've had. Just the same, I ain't selling my old Olds.

Sure would love some tubular A arms and new control arms though.

all the best
cf

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 18:19:36 -0700
From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Subject: 12" Disc Brakes

Further to this thread, do any of you have any thoughts on what would be
necessary to fit big, big brakes to the mid-60's B & C bodies? Any chance
this stuff could be retrofitted?  My 98 weighs about 4500 pounds and stopping
short is always a good thing.

Re the piece about the late 70's R*viera and C*ddy rear ends with disc brake
setups, what would be necessary to retrofit these to fit my 98? Would my
old 455 just beat the heck out of the diff? Or would they serve well? I'm
thinking that the discs would be great, but I'd probably have to reweld the
suspension arm fittings (hard to get just right, I'd guess).

Re other solutions to the rear disc opportunity, does anyone know if there
is a kit out there (not made, of course, but adaptable) to fit the big
cars? I've
seen some kits, but they always refer to A bodies, no one seems to care about
stopping the landyachts... Well I do.

What ideas, or swap thoughts do you have?
thanks
cf

Don, you noted here that the 12" rotors would bolt directly onto the 73-77
A-body cars originally equipped with the 11" ones.  Is that using the
original 11" 73-77 A-body spindles?  Or are these spindles different as
well?  I just got a bit confused there because you said at the top of this
section I've got pasted that the spindle was different but down at the
bottom you said that the 12" rotor would bolt onto the '76-up B-bodies.  If
I wanted to put 12" rotors on my '76 Cutlass, would I need to chance the
spindles?--
>Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
>Rat-Powered '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
>http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
>mailto:lee@mergetel.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 18:52:58 -0700
From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Subject: Good & Bad Lessons

So awhile back I needed to replace the heater core in the 98 and wound up
disassembling everything in front of the firewall just to repaint and properly
tighten everything. After many weeks of driving the car (cool), I've come
to the conclusion that despite the 3 week downtime in late summer,
disassembly was a good idea.

Here's why:
1) After painting some of the moldings had been badly reattached with
improper, ill-fitting clips which made many of them rattle on bumps. When
repainting remove and replace these items yourself. Or the bodyshop will
charge you or just mask 'em off (cheapo). Once I had the fenders off, I
replaced the moldings with the proper or really good universal (silent so
far) hardware and they're as they should be -- decorative and quiet.

2) Disassembly was a terrifico learning process for me. Never had my car
broken down this far before. I learned all about fender adjustment, hood
adjustment and so forth. I came away with a much better appreciation for
the art of bodywork. When they concentrate, these guys are artists. On this
topic, do any of you have fender gap tips? Some of my panels arent' quite
perfect and I couldn't figure out how to get consistent 1/8" and 3/16" gaps
as the factory manual requires. Do you maybe use some consistently thin
wood or correct thickness washers as spacers?

3) Turns out a big noise source is the "stone shield" located just
underneath my aluminum grille. As you drive along, parts of it touch and
make noise bumping against what it's connected to. Any thoughts on what I
could shim this with? Would need to be weatherproof -- well, o.k.
California rainproof --
and thin. Perhaps a well hidden 1/16" strip of correctly cut rubber? No jokes,
please, it's a family list.

4) Repainting the firewall with inner/outer fenders taken off makes it
really look clean. Even if you leave (!) the engine in. Perfect? No. But
Shiny Black, consistent looking and inexpensivo. Also did some of the
throttle parts -- nice. Motor brackets next!

5) Quietness Maintenance Dept: My front sway bar bushings squeak like h*ll.
I have now learned to grease the middle two bushings every three months or
so. (yup, urethane bushings... ). Makes the car go from squeaky relic to
smooth and powerful.

6) For those of you who don't know, grease your drive shaft U-joints, front
and rear, at least once a year. When dry they'll wear out-of-round and
eventually make a rumbling sound before they fail. The sound won't vary
with engine speed which will help you isolate the problem to rear end,
tranny, or drive shaft. Failure is (whee!) a pole-vaulting Oldsmobile. Pray
you don't vault 19 feet high and beat the olympic record while driving.
Consider a drive shaft safety loop.

7) Still concerned about my moving suspension parts. I've had them taken
off, magnafluxed and checked for cracks (200,000+ miles -- 75,000 miles
ago). They passed, but still the front bushing holes clunk a bit and shift
around enough to make me a bit nervous to really see what the 455 will do.
Thoughts? Seems the rear suspension arms also don't really like the added
stress, when _un_boxed, of a rear sway bar. The additional stress caused
mine to crack, happily discovered and rewelded by my local suspension shop
before breakage.

Sorry to go on so long, hope this helps some of you,
cf

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 23:05:19 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: transmission problem

Rich Meyers wrote:
>
> How do I go about disconnecting this until I can fix it right?
> What would I have to do to get it good as new? New Transmission?

I don't even know where to disconnect the wire.  Supposedly, it's the only
wire to the transmission?  Or are there two wires.  Shows how much more
research I need before I get it down.  Maybe someone else can enlighten
us.  Sorry...
_____________________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.erols.com/adcockjk

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 23:08:50 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Ugh...

What will I need to type to get the mail list to not bounce mail back to
me when I write it??  I don' care if it goes out or not, I'll know...

Thanx in advance... Please, E-Me personally, cause I'm sure you've all
been thru this before.
- --
             Jerry Christopher
    ___       HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
___/.o \__, Lost Pony  Round-Up
=O------0=   HTTP://WWW.GeoCities.Com/MotorCity/Downs/2169

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 23:15:35 -0500
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re:

At 10:10 PM 11/11/97 -0500, you wrote:
Shawn

        That's great that you got all the good parts on your car. I'm not
saying that the Quad 4 is a bad engine. I don't think you can come close to
the 12.98 ET of my 67 442 can run (yes it's a factory W-30). Car in it's
prime in B/Stock ran a best of 12.10 @117 MPH. That class doesn't give much
room for any modifications. Let me know when your Q4 runs a 12 second
quarter mile. Please don't get me wrong. I do know how quick those little
pocket Rockets can be. I used to own one.

Jim Chermack

>for the guy who thinks his cutlass can beat this q4 i wait for the
>chance.  I confess though its not even near stock.  rocketparts catalog
>was raided.  It all depends on whats done to your car.  dont downplay the
>power of this car or youll get smoked.  I know mustang headlights all to
>well.  Either way an olds wins, thats all that matters!!!
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 23:17:54 -0500
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Hey all...

At 11:00 PM 11/11/97 -0500, you wrote:
Jerry

        Good we converted another one. There's about 500 give or take on
this list. You may not see some of them all the time but there's alot of
folks who check in every now and then. Glad to have you with us.

Jim Chermack

>Well, it's bound to happen, so here it is:
>
>Hey...  I'm Jerry, I own an 87 Cutlass Supreme with the V8, I used to
>drive a Ford (sigh) 77 Mustang II.....
>
>So how big is this list??  (Hoping I'm not alone here)
>--
>             Jerry Christopher
>    ___       HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
>___/.o \__, Lost Pony  Round-Up
>=O------0=   HTTP://WWW.GeoCities.Com/MotorCity/Downs/2169
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 23:18:31 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: Good & Bad Lessons

Christian Fair wrote:

> 6) For those of you who don't know, grease your drive shaft U-joints, front
> and rear, at least once a year. When dry they'll wear out-of-round and
> eventually make a rumbling sound before they fail. The sound won't vary
> with engine speed which will help you isolate the problem to rear end,
> tranny, or drive shaft. Failure is (whee!) a pole-vaulting Oldsmobile. Pray
> you don't vault 19 feet high and beat the olympic record while driving.
> Consider a drive shaft safety loop.

I learned to LOVE the Drive shaft safety loop on my last car...  While
the rear end and tranny were dying, the drive shaft got SEVERLY worn
until one day, it said, "CYA" and dropped outta the tranny....  Thank
god for the safety loop...  I'da been looking at the ground upside
down...  <G>
- --
             Jerry Christopher
    ___       HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
___/.o \__, Lost Pony  Round-Up
=O------0=   HTTP://WWW.GeoCities.Com/MotorCity/Downs/2169

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 23:20:53 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Reverse lights are unemployed

I am assuming that the Reverse light problem I am about to explain is a
common G-Body Column Shift problem, due to the fact that I have seen
Regals, and Monte Carlos do the same thing:

Where/what do I adjust to get the reverse ligths to work while the car
is fully engadged in reverse???
- --
             Jerry Christopher
    ___       HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
___/.o \__, Lost Pony  Round-Up
=O------0=   HTTP://WWW.GeoCities.Com/MotorCity/Downs/2169

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 16:39:26 -0500 (EST)
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: answer to mirrors.

  clarence yes i know the 70 is different looking for the guts to the rh
mirror and housing   also rh 71-2 glass or guts for rh can you help?
i have a tilt but it's a floor shift model.. do have a buick col tilt
same as olds you would have to change the tilt lever and gear lever...
  thanks look foward to your reply olds guy ga.....

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 23:28:25 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: Hey all...

Jim & Joanne Chermack wrote:

>         Good we converted another one. There's about 500 give or take on
> this list. You may not see some of them all the time but there's alot of
> folks who check in every now and then. Glad to have you with us.

Ahhhh, sorta...  I am starting my drag car shortly, and I must admit, it
ain't GM...  Still have "Ford Owner's Syndrome" kinda like Down
syndrome, but no physical deformaties ...  It's a 1976 Pinto
Runabout...  It'll have a 2.3L Turbo in it...  BUT, since I beat the
crap outta the LAST car I ran down the strip, I kinda need to trailer
this one! <G> That's where the Supreme comes into play!!!  Beat the crap
outta the Ford, put it on the Trailer, and drive the rest of the time in
my Olds....  It gets chicks better than a Pinto!  hahahahaha....
- --
             Jerry Christopher
    ___       HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
___/.o \__, Lost Pony  Round-Up
=O------0=   HTTP://WWW.GeoCities.Com/MotorCity/Downs/2169

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 23:49:59 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: 500+ ?!?!?!?

500+ Subscribers???  OK, I AM in the right place!!!  My old group, the
Mustang II Mail List thought it was big, but it is SMALL compared to you
all...  We are 65 members, and slowly growing....   <G>
- --
             Jerry Christopher
    ___       HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
___/.o \__, Lost Pony  Round-Up
=O------0=   HTTP://WWW.GeoCities.Com/MotorCity/Downs/2169

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 23:53:47 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: Ugh...

Jerry Christopher wrote:
>
> What will I need to type to get the mail list to not bounce mail back to
> me when I write it??  I don' care if it goes out or not, I'll know...

After already weighing my options, and hearing there is no
"solution"...  I think I figured it out!!!  FILTER it directly into the
TRASH CAN...  <G>  Ahhhhh, much better.
- --
             Jerry Christopher
    ___       HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
___/.o \__, Lost Pony  Round-Up
=O------0=   HTTP://WWW.GeoCities.Com/MotorCity/Downs/2169

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª949
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