
oldsmobile-digest       Monday, October 13 1997       Volume 01 : Number 901



Boonesboro car show
CCR All Olds Show
Re: speaker ohm question? - LONG!
Re: VIN Number
Re: Sway Bars
UNBOUNCE: '89 Cutlass
Valve Cover Breather
Re: Boonesboro car show
Re: Concerning 350's and 455's
'69 Posi Help
Re: Which year 350 is best?
Re: Valve Cover Breather
PARTS: Clean-out Sale
Metering valve seals
Re: Test - Can anyone else see this?
Re: Valve Cover Breather
Re: More build sheet info (Was: Build Sheet Help)
'61 Starfire Top Question
Englishtown Olds Show...
TH700-R4
Re: FS:1980 Olds Cutlass Supreme (fwd)
other lists?
Re: other lists?
Re: Dual-Snorkel Air Cleaner
New gas tanks prep
Re: Dual-Snorkel Air Cleaner
Re: Test - Can anyone else see this?
Re: rear seal
Re: FS:1980 Olds Cutlass Supreme (fwd)
Old Car Magazines
Headers?
Re: Dual-Snorkel Air Cleaner
value of a 455 block
Re: READ ME...questioning authority
Rebuild Parts List
'67 Cutlass suspension/performance mods
Olds Rallye 350 Meet (long)
Re: value of a 455 block
Re: Trans Troubles (fwd)
Re[2]: Sway Bars
Re[2]: ADVICE NEEDED!!!
Re: Concerning 350's and 455's
Re: Dual-Snorkel Air Cleaner (Ram Air)
Re[2]: rear seal
Re: PARTS: Clean-out Sale
Re[2]: Concerning 350's and 455's
Re: READ ME...questioning authority
Re: CCR All Olds Show
Re[2]: VIN Number
Numbers question?
Re: rear seal
Re: coolant overflow
Experimental Engines (was: Old Car Magazines)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 18:45:05 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Boonesboro car show

Took a little time out to go to a car show at a local state park
yesterday.  Got there early and left early as I was playing in a
softball tournament this weekend.  Really disappointed in the number (or
lack of) of Olds products there.  I was there early, but probably about
a 100-150 vehicles already present.  Only saw two Olds products, 1 a
nice white 68 S conv and the other an early 60's big Olds hdtp (sorry
folks, don't remember the exact model).  Chevys, Fords out the rear in
attendance, as well as a lot of 20s, 30s and 50s models.  One vehicle I
thought was impressive was a Kenworth tractor with a lot of chrome,
etc.  BIG old motor.  Probably a lot of money spent on it.  Really
disappointed in the local Oldsmobile lack of either vehicles or
participation.  If I ever get all my projects finished, the number will
increase by three anyway.  Are most of the car shows this lightly
attended by the Oldsmophites or only in this area?  Only cars I saw less
represented where a 1970 Charger RT and a 1970 GS conv. (one of each)
Oh well, maybe more showed up after I left.  I certainly hope so.

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, Ky

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 19:05:09 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: CCR All Olds Show

Got back from the show today, great weather!
I did not have the car judged (has a long way to go) but did win a few
t-shirts.
Also, I was able to put some faces to the names on the list:
Brad Nicholson & Drew Senko both got 1st place.
Met Joe Padavano, who thankfully brought his "Dirty W Thirty" so my car
didn't look ~too~ bad.
Also met a silent list member with a '73 H/O, Allen Monroe.
Never did catch up with John Pajak or Todd Morris though.
- -- 
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 16:53:55 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: speaker ohm question? - LONG!

> Ahh Hah, that's right!  I forgot and didn't even think of that.
> Running
> the speakers in series would bring 4 ohm speakers to 8.
> 
Just be careful here, since if you only start with the two speakers, you
~will~ have an 8 ohm load, but you'll only have one of 'em.  You won't
have any stereo (mono only) and you'd have to use only one channel of
the deck power (i.e. left only or right only.)  It's feasible to "mono"
the stereo out, bridging left and right channels together - some decks
will handle this, however, an 8 ohm mono load at the amplifier is
equivalent to a 4 ohm stereo load, so you're not gaining anything by
going that route.  By adding a second pair of 4 ohm speakers in sereis,
you'll create an 8 ohm stereo load, which is great.  However, you'll
want to try to get speakers with a similar frequency responsem so the
ohm loads at any given frequency are the same. 

Let me explain that a bit more, because this is where I often lose
people here.  Starting with the basics, We'll take an average 4 ohm 6X9
woofer.  It'll probably efficiently produce sound between 50 Hz and
(hypothetically) 2KHz.  This alone is poor sound quality so most come as
two or three way speakers.  For a three way, we'll add a midrange driver
and a tweeter.  The midrange will likely produce from 800Hz to 6KHz
(still purely hypothetical, but a common average none-the-less).  The
tweeter will come in at around 5KHz to 18KHz or so, depending on the
quality of drivers being used.  Let me recap here:
Woofer:  50 - 2000 Hz
Mid:    800 - 6000 Hz
Tweet: 5000 - 18000 Hz

Outside these ranges, the speaker will "roll off" meaning they will
produce sounds, but at a lower efficiency (volume level)  This means it
takes more power to get those frequencies out, which indicates a higher
resistance.  Speakers do not like trying to produce frequencies lower
than they are capable of producing (bass) so they will have a tendancy
to be damaged if something is not added to keep those lower frequencies
out.  Capacitors are used here (called crossovers) to keep unwanted
freq's out.  Since it doesn't hurt a driver to try producing sounds too
high for it, we typically just let them roll off on their own.  

So what's this all mean?  We'll get back to our 4 ohm woofer.  Within
its operating range (50 - 2K) the speaker is carrying a 4 ohm load. 
Outside of that range, the resistance is higher.  When we add them all
together, with the crossovers being used to even things out, we have a
woofer that will carry 4 ohms from 50 to 2K, at which the mid will kick
in, and carry 4 ohms throughout its range, up to 6K, then the tweet
comes in.  What we end up with is a multiple driver system with an
average of 4 ohms.  At the crossover points, when plotted on a graph,
you'll see dips in the resistance, where the mid and tweet are both
producing the same freq's.  At these points, the amp is seeing two
drivers in parallel, therefor a 2 ohm load.  The "width" of these points
are minimal, so it seldom causes any adverse affects.  It all averages
out fairly smooth.  Things change when we start adding stuff to this
speaker system however.  Let's say we decide to stick a second tweeter
in there.  We'll keep it easy and cross it over at 6000 Hz.  Now, your
amp is seeing 4 ohms from 50 Hz to 6Khz, and 2 Ohms from 6KHz and up. 
(*Crossovers in series change some things here, but I'll leave that out
for confusion reasons*)  We'll just assume a parallel system for now.  

GET TO THE MEAT, ALREADY!!!

So what is the importance of all this?  Getting back to the car in
question, with 6X9's in the rear deck (as I recall)...  The premise was
to add a second pair of speakers to achieve 8 ohms.  If the second pair
of speakers happens to be 4" drivers, or something small enough to fit
up front somewhere where they'd do any good, their frequency response
will be much different than the 6X9's.  You  might not see any lower
than 400 Hz on 'em.  Which would make 8 ohms from 400 Hz and up, but
you'd still be at 4 ohms from 50 to 400 Hz.  This may stress out that
amp a bit.  It's doubtful, but it's definately something to keep in
mind.  If you're strongly concerned about keeping your factory deck's
amp safe, you'll want the second speakers to have as wide of freq
response as possible.  

There are other options, of course, but I won't get into that.  The
digest members will probably shoot me as long as this is already!  :) 
Hopefully this clears up some issues about speaker resistance, although
it does get a bit techy.  I'll leave it at that, with a request that
anyone replying snip most of the extra stuff out. 
    
             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
             Box 524               | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Sidney, Montana 59270 | http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
	     "TRBO LVR" (Maybe???:)| '83 Turbo Regal
               	     Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 19:01:56 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: VIN Number

At 01:11 PM 10/11/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Could someone please translate my VIN number for me?  The number is 
>384676MI86448.  My car is a 1966 Ninety Eight Convertible; white with 
>red/marroon interior.  Also I was investigating my engine compartment today
and 
>found that I have B Heads.  Are these the original heads for my car?  My
car has
>had a lot of things done to it by a previous owner and I'm trying to figure
out 
>how original it is.  Thanks in advance!
>
>Jerod S.
>
>
Jerod

        Yes your engine should have came with the B heads. They are correct
for a 66 Big Block Olds 400 or 425.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 19:01:57 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Sway Bars

At 09:40 PM 10/11/97 -0300, you wrote:
Greg 

        DO IT! I have a friend that put that bar on his with a 1 inch rear
bar from a GTO and loves it. It really doesn't griv too hard of a ride
compared to heavy springs. Just make sure all the bushings are in very good
shape. Also, DON'T use these bars with reproduction biased plied tires. The
don't have the grip of a radial for handling and will be overcome quickly.

Jim Chermack


>
>Was junkyarding for a little while today, got a vent cable for the Delta 
>(it's original had a knob missing) and (ta-DAHHH!) a rear sway bar, off a 
>late-80s C*price. Will be putting it on as soon as the bolts and brackets 
>come in from the dealer (the yard torched them removing it). So I'll let 
>you all know how well it works when it goes on.
>
>Right next to the Ch*vy in the yard was an '80 Firebird Formula. Looked
>into the engine room and it's front bar was a beefy one, looked to be
>maybe 1 1/4 inches. I understand that this would fit my Cutlass. I was
>tempted to get it also but was worried a little that it might make the
>ride too harsh. The Cutlass is already a little choppy and harsh on
>certain surfaces, and I suspect the control arm bushings in front are
>pretty much worn out, which might contribute to that. But even if they
>were replaced, I'd be concerned that a big bar like that might make it too
>stiff. OTOH, when I added the rear bar a few years ago it made a big
>difference in the handling, and the thing is almost too twitchy right now,
>so the bigger front bar would likely help in that department. Any
>thoughts? 
>
>Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 20:10:12 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: '89 Cutlass

Not a list member, so reply directly... this one sounds interesting 
too... I'm assuming they are referring to a RWD Cutlass.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date:	Sun, 12 Oct 1997 18:29:48 -0400
From:	Kelly Leblanc <kaleblanc@snet.net>
Reply-To: kaleblanc@snet.net
Subject: Oldsmoble

I myself own a 1989 Cutlass "Phantom",1 of 200 put together in East
Hartford Conn.And I beleive sold only in Conn. and Mass.(I could be
wrong) Have only seen 2 others like it and almost jump on the guy
driving the first one thinking it was mine...oops!
But love the car and plan on keeping it for quite awhile.
Art Filek
Kaleblanc@snet.com

writing it from Windham Conn.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 19:07:17 -0400
From: "Adcock, Jason K." <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Valve Cover Breather

Hi guys and gals.  I assume there is a way to replace my PCV valve with a
cool lookin breather, right?  Matt C., have you done this?  I thought
someone here has mentioned doing it before, but I can't remember.  I don't
know what the effects are of doing this, like poor emissions, or something
like that.  Thanks for the help!
- -- 
Jason K. Adcock
jadcock@vt.edu

http://www.erols.com/adcockjk
1984 Cutlass Supreme Calais
1992 Ford Crown Victoria LX
1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 23:07:49 +0000
From: clarence wirtz <cw63nova@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Boonesboro car show

At 10:45 PM 10/12/97 +0000, you wrote:
>
>
>  Really disappointed in the number (or
>lack of) of Olds products there.  
>
>Dont feel bad Don, I go to the local drag strip and a few cars show in my
local area and encounter the same lack of rocket showings. Matter a fact the
last two times I went to the track not a single OLDS made a showing.

Well, 2 Weeks ago  the population of OLDS in KY was up by one. I drove from
San Antonio to  KY to help my daughter move shes in the Army) 
>
> 
>Clarence
86 Cutlass 4dr 307 o/d
>
>
>

>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 97 19:15:15 -0500
From: Mike Hall <oldsmike@flash.net>
Subject: Re: Concerning 350's and 455's

Matt Cremean writes:
>I may have said this a million times already, but I'm rebuilding my 350
>this winter. It is a 73 model. I'm putting in a milder cam and #6 heads
>and an Edelbrock Perf. RPM manifold, along with a new valvetrain.

>But, I was also considering finding a 455, and since we'll have to pull
>the engine out of the Cutlass anyhow, why not just get a junkyard engine
>that's already free of it's car and build that. I know I don't want
>anything from 73-up. I hear they suck unless you get different heads,
>but it might come to that.

>I need help, should I stick with the 350, only 46,000+ miles, or should
>I find a relatively good 455?

This requires a two part question to you...

1. How much $$$ do you have to spend? (See the FAQ for budgeting a 
rebuild)
2. How fast do you want to go?

If you are on a limited budget, the 350 should work just fine. If you can 
spare the cost for the 455, you get the bonus hosepower from the extra 
cubes. You also may have to spend some bucks on bracketry (if its not 
there) and/or suspension mods to fit the 455 (i.e. springs).
There is very little difference in dollars to rebuild between a 350 vs 
455, if you can spare the dollars go with the big block...



Michael R. Hall: OCA #17903                    Ortonville, Michigan
Home E-Mail: oldsmike@flash.net
The Ever-Growing Oldsmobile Stable:
1971 Oldsmobile 442    
1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
1987 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Custom Cruiser
1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 19:21:17 -0400
From: dgerow@student.stonehill.edu (Daniel R. Gerow)
Subject: '69 Posi Help

I have inquired about this before, without a dime to my name, but now I
am serious.  I have a '69 442 which needs a posi rear end.  Does anyone
have any insight as to where I can locate one?  The guy I was going to
get mine off of sold it to the highest bidder, even though I already
paid for it.
It has the standard 400 cid mill, with the TH400 auto tranny.  I am a
little miffed about the loss of the above and need some help.  Thanks in
advance to all!
- --
Daniel R. Gerow
WSHL-FM 91.3
General Manager
Stonehill College Radio
- -----------------------
http://www.stonehill.edu
http://www.stonehill.edu/wshl
http://www2.stonehill.edu/~dgerow
- ---------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 19:23:51 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Which year 350 is best?

John Stolarski wrote:
> 
> OK, as some of you know...I am saving to try and turn my '86 Cutlass
> into a Mustang killer...anyway, what year 350 is the best, I've heard
> many7 different things from Early 70's to I'd have to get a post '73 for
> emissions components to hook up. So...I ask you all the question...what
> year should I try to get so I can still drive legal, and have a good bit
> of horsepower out of it...while I', at it, are there heads that are
> better than 5A heads (stupid question I'm sure) for a s/b? Still
> learning...
> John

Go to the Olds FAQ at http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/oldsfaq3.htm and read
the whole section on heads. You'll learn SO much. I know I did. As far
as the best 350? I can't tell you. 73 is what I have and it has some
emissions stuff on it, but nothing major. Just EGR, and no catylitics
are required. I say go with a 73 and perform a head swap. Go to a
junkyard and see if you can find a 350 from 68-72 and get those heads. 
- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 19:32:29 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Valve Cover Breather

Adcock, Jason K. wrote:
> 
> Hi guys and gals.  I assume there is a way to replace my PCV valve with a
> cool lookin breather, right?  Matt C., have you done this?  I thought
> someone here has mentioned doing it before, but I can't remember.  I don't
> know what the effects are of doing this, like poor emissions, or something
> like that.  Thanks for the help!

Yep. I did it. It works fine, I guess. I didn't notice a difference. Of
course, I don't have to worry about emissions 'cause I'm a Michigander.
The PVC valve had nowhere to go anyhow because I replaced my air
cleaner, plus the fact that it was torn open didn't help either. I
didn't have to worry about it being taken of either because I just
replced my valve covers.

Hope this helps,
- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 19:37:55 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: PARTS: Clean-out Sale

                                                C&M Classic Parts
                                                   Clean-out Sale



64 Cutlass/442                       
RH Headlight Bezel  $7.00                                                  
Front Bumper Core  $30.00                                                   
LH/RH Taillight Lens  $5.00 ea                                            
F-85 Fender Emblem (nice)  $2.00                                      
V-8 Emblem  $2.00                                                             

65 Cutlass/442
65 Cutlass/442 Wheelwell Moldings  $10.00 ea
65 Hood Molding (fair cond)  $10.00
65 425 111089 Distributor  $15.00

66 Cutlass/442 Hood Molding  (fair cond) 
66-67 AM Radios (nice)  $20.00 ea
67 Cutlass Fender Emblems (nice)  $7.00 ea
67 Plain Cutlass Fender Rockets (nice)  $5.50 ea
67 442 Pie Tin Decal  $3.00

68-69 LH Quarter Panel  4 door (mint)  $135.00
68-69 RH Quarter Panel  4 door (mint)  $135.00
68 Cutlass/442 Std Horn Button (black, nice)  $5.00                     
68 Air Cleaner Stove Pipe (pipe only)  $5.00
69 C/S Side Moldings  $10.00 ea
69-70 Hood Louver Chrome  $20.00 pr                                          
69-70 Hood Louver Moldiings  $20.00 pr     
69 Front and Rear 4 Doors  (small dings, no rust) $45.00 ea
69 4 Door Panels (Gold, cloth, nice)  $20.00 ea

70-72 455 Std. Iron intake manifold (auto cars)  $55.00
70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switch Bezels  $3.00 ea
Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $50.00

71 Cutlass Full Wheel Covers  $25.00 set
71 Headlight Bezels  $30.00 pr
71-72 10 Bolt 2.56:1 (open rear)  $50.00

72 Headlight Bezels  $30.00 pr

We are clearing out lots of small stuff to make room for more coming in. 

Jim Chermack
C&M Calssic Parts
(757) 474-0869
OCA #24275 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 19:33:36 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Metering valve seals

I am having trouble finding metering valve seals for my 69 H/O.  Power
disc brakes.  This is the little bugger that is bolted to a bracket on
the power booster next to the master cylinder.  It can be disassembled. 
Mine is leaking around the rear seal.  I need to replace this seal.  It
is a Bendix seal # 2225844.  Anyone know where to get one?  Or two?  I
know Supercars Unlimited swaps you yours for theirs for 90 bucks, but I
can't see spending 90 dollars for a rubber seal.  There isn't hardly
anything in these valves anyway.  Simple.  I just can't find a seal for
it.  Or not yet anyway.

TIA,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 18:33:40 -0500
From: "sherrie young" <youngfam@flash.net>
Subject: Re: Test - Can anyone else see this?

we see you!!
bob in Houston---67 Toro deluxe

- ----------
> From: Shang <shoover@flash.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Test - Can anyone else see this?
> Date: Sunday, October 12, 1997 10:40 AM
> 
> Can anyone see this?
> 
> Stephen Hoover
> Dallas, Texas
> '70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 19:44:19 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Valve Cover Breather

> The PVC valve had nowhere to go anyhow because I replaced my air
> cleaner, plus the fact that it was torn open didn't help either. 

Hmmmmm.  Last time I checked, the breather vent went to the air cleaner,
and the PCV valve went to the carb base.  Running without some
ventilation system is bad news to your engine.  The breather allows
filtered air to enter the crankcase, whereas the PCV valve allowed the
engine to ingest the vapors from the crankcase.  Remember, the pistons
are moving air around in the crankcase too, and with blowby from the
combustion process by the rings, pressure is going to build up in this
area if not sufficiently vented.  Surefire way to find leaky seals, or
make them leak.  Even race cars use some sort of crankcase scavenging
system, usually to the headers. (Ever notice that weird looking tube on
the collectors on the all-out race cars?)  The exhaust "vacuums" out the
gases from the crankcase in this fashion.

The PCV valve should be routed to the base of the carb, and if you want
to run one of those cool looking breathers on the other side due to air
cleaner mods or whatever, it will work.  Even using two breathers is not
good enough, since pressure will eventually build up enough to soak the
breather elements and blow oil out on the engine.  If GM could get away
with NOT putting a part in, believe me, they'd have done it.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 19:51:50 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: More build sheet info (Was: Build Sheet Help)

Robert Barry wrote:

> 56=Delta-style body

Dr. Bob, where'd you get this information for '68?  I'm unable to find a
reference to the 5600 series for '68.  I have the main Delta series at
6400 and the Delta Custom series at 6600.

> R R*= Paint code; though these are theoretically numbers, sometimes they're
> letters instead. 

Letters were used from '59 thru '68.  '69 started using numbers again
even though the cars were still ordered using letter codes.  In '70 they
started using numbers again for ordering.  R R would be Scarlet (grandma
must have had a wild streak).  Is there really a * in there?  Maybe
that's just a speck of dirt?

- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

If you throw a cat out a car window, does it become kitty litter?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 20:05:43 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: '61 Starfire Top Question

Just returned from the big Fall Hershey Meet.  Sat with a friend of mine
that is trying to sell her '61 Starfire.  We had an amazing large number
of people who talked with great knowledge about a chrome/silver border
that ran along the sides of the convertible top, above the side windows
and down along the rear 1/4 window to the beltline.  I thought the first
few were nut cases, then a guy came along that was an Olds factory rep
in '61 and had one for a demo.  He said the same thing.  Then more
people said the same thing.  I thought I knew a lot about these cars,
but I've never known of this stripe that they're talking about. 
'Course, I don't think a picture exists of one of these cars with the
top up when they were new, everthing I have has the top down, and the
sales material I have makes no mention of this special stripe.  So does
anyone on this list remember seeing a car with a top like this?

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

If you throw a cat out a car window, does it become kitty litter?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 00:08:11 +0000
From: Tom Millard <oldspwr@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Englishtown Olds Show...

This past Saturday was the thirteeth annual Oldsmobile Performance weekend
sponsored by the Rallye 350 club and the New England OCA chapter.  The
turnout was decent and there was a lot of nice cars there.  If anybody is
thinking about going next year it is definetly a worthwil trip.

Some side notes:

Best of Show was won by a 87 442 with only 9000 miles on it.  It was
exceptionally clean and still had the Eagle GT's on it.  

Dick Miller was there with his race car as well as an assortment of his
products. I spoke with him for a short while and he is very personable.  He
brought along a new mini starter that could be installed and removed with
the headers on.  He also had a set of Batten's new aluminum under drive
pulley's.
Tom Millard OLDSPWR@worldnet.att.net
79 Cutlass - Street/Strip/Show
86 442 - Summer Driver
79 Cutlass - Winter Bomb

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 19:21:59 -0500
From: "John C. Ramsey" <jramsey@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: TH700-R4

Hey Folks,

    First of all - thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you!
Your help had been absolutely invaluable in the swap of my 350 2 barrel
to killer 455.  That will be done in a couple of weeks :)

    Second, I have come across an extremely good deal on a TH700-R4
tranny from an '85 'Vette.  What needs to be done to fit this badboy
behind that 455?

    Here's what I know - This has a different bell-housing than my 455.
I have located an adapter plate through PAW that is made for taking care
of just that, so no worries there.  I also know that the tail-section of
the Vette tranny is made differently than other 700-R4's, the different
being that this one was meant to bolt to a bracket that went from the
tranny to the top of the diff (the Vette IRS made this possible).  So
I'll probably have to purchase another one of these at the dealer.
Drive shaft will certainly have to be done, due to differing lengths of
tranny.  The shifter I currently have also will not work due to
incorrect number of detents and positions availabe (I have a center
console and the shift section is for the original 2-speed - I currently
have a TH-350).

    Here's what I don't know - Will there have to be any floor mods to
clear the new trans.  I doubt it, because the 700-R4 doesn't appear to
be THAT much larger.  Also, do I need to change cross members?  I'm
quite sure that I do, but does anyone make this x-member, or do I get to
exercise my machine work and welding talents to make one?  What about
the speedo gear?  Also, will the torque convert tranfer?  I don't
believe that will be a problem...

    Any help is GREATLY appreciated!  Again, thanks for everything!

John Ramsey
'69 Cutlass 'S' 455 (mmmmmm...torque beast...)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 97 18:43:17 PDT
From: "chris smetana" <chris@abcs.com>
Subject: Re: FS:1980 Olds Cutlass Supreme (fwd)

I've posted this car here a few months back.  I've talked with Jim Macino and a few times and sold him some GTO parts.  He told me the story of the car, but didn't say anything about the hood.  I may be able to give you some info about the car before you talk with Jim, just let me know.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
chris@abcs.com

1969 Cutlass W-31
plus others

>  As most of you know, the 80 and 81 Cutlass Diesel had an aluminum hood,
> and supposedly a little heavier zinc plating than the gasoline cars.
> (snip some details)
> that was built by Moore Transmissions in Fort Wayne. You probably also
> know that a THM400 was never available in an
> 80 Cutlass, so the firewall had to be kicked back about a half
> inch, and the driveshaft cut and balanced by Fort Wayne Clutch. The rear
> end is a 2.56 or whatever was stock with the diesel cars. 70 mph is

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 21:24:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Douglas J Harkema" <harkema2@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: other lists?

I just got off the phone w/ my brother in law.  Ans was telling him about this
list.  He has a 71 corv*tte conv't and wants to know if there is a list like
this for corv*ttes.  To make this olds related and to tell you he is not thta
bad a brother in law I sold him a 1988 cutlass calais international series
which he has painted and loves it.  Any h*lp would be appreciated.

Doug H
70 CS conv't

harkema2@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 21:41:40 -0400
From: "Adcock, Jason K." <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: other lists?

Douglas J Harkema wrote:
> list.  He has a 71 corv*tte conv't and wants to know if there is a list like
> this for corv*ttes.  To make this olds related and to tell you he is not thta

Douglas, try www.mailinglists.org and chose MajorCool.  You can search for
mailing lists there.

- -- 
Jason K. Adcock
jadcock@vt.edu

http://www.erols.com/adcockjk
1984 Cutlass Supreme Calais
1992 Ford Crown Victoria LX
1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 18:50:54 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: Dual-Snorkel Air Cleaner

Yes, the H/O's and 442's all have the dual snorkel cleaners.  I did a search on
partsvoice and it says there aren't any left, using the '84 part number (can't
imagine why it'd be different in other years).

The primary snorkel is the same size as any other g-body and has a duct running
up between the radiator and battery, driver's side.  The secondary snorkel,
pass. side just opens to the engine compartment.  It's about twice as big as
the primary though.

Both snorkels have thermacs on them, and the primary snorkel goes down to the
preheat tube.  The secondary's thermac connects to manifold vacuum so when
manifold vacuum drops under WOT, the secondary opens.  It opens slow though,
and there are benefits to be had by either disconnecting the thermac so the
secondary snorkel stays open, or (my preference) hook the secondary thermac up
to the same vacuum source as the primary snorkel so they both open when the
engine warms up, and then run a cold air duct from the secondary to outside
air.

Those two holes in front do look good for piping in outside air, but to me they
seem like they're responsible for ducting in a lot of air for the radiator.
Don't want to block that off.  Maybe you could hang the "scoops" down below, or
buy an airdam from somewhere like Lauren Engineering and cut holes in it for
the scoops.  To make the scoops, take a trip down to the local hardware store
and look in the heating section at all the different register vents.

Tom Lentz
tlentz@ior.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 22:12:38 -0400
From: Aaron D Eoff <sheep542@mindspring.com>
Subject: New gas tanks prep

Any reccomendations on a specicfic paint that I could use to paint a new gas
tank?? Would like to protect it from any corrosion before its installed. 

TIA

Aaron D Eoff
   ///////  ///////
       //       //
      //       //
     //       //
    //       //  'twas a goodyear

1977 Olds Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 22:11:11 -0400
From: "Adcock, Jason K." <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Dual-Snorkel Air Cleaner

Tom Lentz wrote:
> 
> Yes, the H/O's and 442's all have the dual snorkel cleaners.  I did a search on
> partsvoice and it says there aren't any left, using the '84 part number (can't
> imagine why it'd be different in other years).

Rats.  I figured that they'd be pretty rare.

> The primary snorkel is the same size as any other g-body and has a duct running
> up between the radiator and battery, driver's side.  The secondary snorkel,
> pass. side just opens to the engine compartment.  It's about twice as big as
> the primary though.

Yes, I saw one on an '83, but couldn't remember the specifics.

> Those two holes in front do look good for piping in outside air, but to me they
> seem like they're responsible for ducting in a lot of air for the radiator.

That's a good point.  I did go to the hardware store today and looked at
their heating ducts, but they were all much too large.  I saw a stock 307
air box at a junkyard; I'll go get it tomorrow.  I'll look more into this,
though.  It seems like a fun project, although everyday it seems like it's
more and more unreasonable.  I'll fill y'all in.  Thanks.

- -- 
Jason K. Adcock
jadcock@vt.edu

http://www.erols.com/adcockjk
1984 Cutlass Supreme Calais
1992 Ford Crown Victoria LX
1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 18:43:24 -0000
From: "Rod Beydler" <rodsmobile@mscomm.com>
Subject: Re: Test - Can anyone else see this?

yes

- ----------
> From: Shang <shoover@flash.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Test - Can anyone else see this?
> Date: Sunday, October 12, 1997 3:40 PM
> 
> Can anyone see this?
> 
> Stephen Hoover
> Dallas, Texas
> '70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 18:46:27 -0000
From: "Rod Beydler" <rodsmobile@mscomm.com>
Subject: Re: rear seal

Use the diesel rear seal or is it the 460 f**d, both are one piece. Anybody
out there can help out on this?

- ----------
> From: Lmcmcsc@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: rear seal
> Date: Sunday, October 12, 1997 8:17 PM
> 
> I"m rebuilding a 69 400 olds the rear main seal i got in the gasket set
is a
> rope type.    which i recd 4 pieces 2 of each size. What i took out of
the
> engine seems to be a rubber type seal is this correct and how do i
install
> these rope type seals 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 22:51:55 -0400
From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Subject: Re: FS:1980 Olds Cutlass Supreme (fwd)

My 80 442 has an aluminum hood and it is not a diesel :-) 


Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio
Quality Engineer - TRW, Inc. Automotive Group
95 Impala SS                    85 S-10 Blazer 4x4
80 Olds 442 W-30            75 Hurst/Olds W-25

- ----------
> From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: FS:1980 Olds Cutlass Supreme (fwd)
> Date: Sunday, October 12, 1997 6:11 PM
> 
>
> >  As most of you know, the 80 and 81 Cutlass Diesel had an aluminum
> > hood,
> 
> Is this true?  I'd never heard this before...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 21:58:34 -0500
From: Tom Williams <tjwilli@Megavision.com>
Subject: Old Car Magazines

Hi All,
   I am just typing this letter on about 75 old Car Craft, Hi
Performance Cars and Hot Rod Magazines with dates from 1963-1973 I
purcahsed at a farm auction today. I was wondering if anyone is familiar
with or has seen any of the experimental motors olds built but did not
use, in one issue dated July 1969 they have a two page color layout of 7
Oldsmobile engines that never hit the streets and a couple of these were
389 cubic inch motors with two 850cfm holley 4 barrels on them. All of
the 7 engines are very strange looking like the one with two fans and
two fan belts, or the one that is a 455 twin turbocharged fuel injection
motor. I also found in a hot Rod magazine dated July 1970 an article
where James Garner the Movie Actor drove a 1970 Olds W-31 in the 1000
mile race across the Mexican dessert and finished in 2nd place.  Also
there is a ton of full two page and full single page ads with Oldsmobile
cars in Color and black and white. Sorry about taking so long but have
found many more interesting articles in many of the magazines thought
some of you might find interesting.

Thanks,
Tom Williams
1970 W31

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 15:54:59 -0400
From: harry <Km-Nuku@xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Headers?

Hi all,

What would be good Headers for the 403? ( it's in a van ) I've got
plenty of room to work with, except by #2 exhaust port, where I only had
a 2 inch clearance between the old manifold and the steering.

Thanx

Dave

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 20:52:52 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Dual-Snorkel Air Cleaner

> > Those two holes in front do look good for piping in outside air, but
> to me they
> > seem like they're responsible for ducting in a lot of air for the
> radiator.

I'd found two defroster ducts out of a mid 40's pickup (we'd guessed)
lying on the ground at a junk yard.  Couldn't pinpoint an application,
but we'd estimated mid 40s, anyway.  They fit almost perfectly in the
bumper cutouts, and even have screens on em.  Plus, they had regular
sized ducts coming off of them, and fit perfectly around a large shop
vac hose.  Made for a perfect setup in the Rockit.  Finding the same
pieces might be a bit of a challenge, but it's possible...

    
             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
             Box 524               | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Sidney, Montana 59270 | http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
	     "TRBO LVR" (Maybe???:)| '83 Turbo Regal
               	     Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 23:06:23 -0400
From: "deirdre. reilly" <102724.635@compuserve.com>
Subject: value of a 455 block

Hey everyone,

I just back from the Rallye 350 Chapter meet this weekend, and had a blast.
 I'll write more about that in a different post.

While I was there someone was selling a 455 and I was hoping to get some
advice before I went and bought it.  He says it is a 1972 block.  I
couldn't read the numbers on the front of the block next to oil filler
because there was too much gunk on it.  I did see a large "F" on the block.
 I recall this as being a "good" casting, as well as the "G" casting on the
heads.  The guy said they are W-30 heads.  I'm not familiar with older cars
so I'm not sure about that.  Some numbers from the intake read 410 448 D2 B
(it is a four barrel intake).  That's about all I could find.  Also has no
exhaust manifolds, carb, acc. brackets and about 190K miles on it.  Bottom
end rebuilt once, heads or top end never touched.

He's asking $500 which includes delivery to my house.  Does this sound 
like a reasonable price?

Also would it be possible to use my carb and exhaoust manifolds from the
307 I have in My '85 Cutlass with this motor?  I do have a feeling that
using the 307 xst manifolds probably wouldn't be a good idea. Am I right on
that?

Thanks very much for any input on this subject.  I appreciate it.

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme
'83 Cutlass Ciera

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 16:10:05 -0400
From: harry <Km-Nuku@xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Re: READ ME...questioning authority

Brad Bowles wrote:
>  A spec list on differentials and their compatability
>         Thank you for those of you who have read this.
> Brad

Yes, I agree.  It would be a good idea for a spec list on diffs and
gears, as I too am having problems with my rear end :-)  and my gears
too ( that's what you get for sitting on cold concrete, while working on
the 403 ) ;-)

Dave

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 23:21:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: Rebuild Parts List

The parts list for my rebuild is now on the web...

Al Varhus
Columbus, Ohio 
http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
 
  

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 23:24:45 -0400 (EDT)
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: '67 Cutlass suspension/performance mods

As I'll be changing front end sheetmetal on my '67 CS 2dr/ 400ci/ auto this
week, I figure now is the time to get down to the front susp upgrades I've
been wanting to 
do.
I have a stock rebuilt steering box from my '69 442 (replaced with a
quick-ratio ) and recall a post here a bit ago that this box is quicker than
what's stock. Is this a good swap and worth the effort? 
Where can I find a bigger swaybar for the front? The stock unit is a beefy
~1" item, but all this talk of nearly 2" bars has me wondering...
The front drums are history--have a set of A body discs and spindles. This
looks to be a fairly straightforward job. Any caveats/tricks before I go
installing them?
Hooray for SB42! We californians can now dispose of those godawful smog pumps
and pipes! I LOOOOVE  a clean engine bay, and now I can have one.
And finally, have a beautiful set of American Racing Tork-thrusts 15"X7". How
big a tire can I go with this body? Those wheel wells have always looked
awfully empty
to me , and now's the time to fix that. Are 245-255/60's too big? Will they
clear the front fender lips? Or should I go a bit smaller up front? Any
recommendations or 
experiences appreciated.

Peter
CoupeKing

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 23:27:42 -0400
From: "deirdre. reilly" <102724.635@compuserve.com>
Subject: Olds Rallye 350 Meet (long)

I just came back from the Rallye 350 meet at the Englishtown Racetrack this
weekend. My younger brother and I had a great time there.  Saw some really
nice looking Oldsmobile, and some of them really moved too.  I got to race
my '85 Cutlass also.  That was pretty cool even though it took me over 18
seconds to go 1/4 mile.

I did the 1/4 twice and bested an 18.288 at a whopping 66.98mph.  I thought
my Cutlass would be a little quicker than that, but my tranny has been
acting pretty funny lately.  My brother did about 19 secs at @ 74mph in his
'86 Cutlass.  His carb is shot otherwise I think he would have gone faster
also.

Saw some other cars, that were intresting, race.  How about the '97
Shillouette minivan that was running 15s.  I don't know if it was modified
because he only raced and wasn't around for the show.  Then there was the
early 70's 4 door 98 that was also running 15s.  It would be way
embarrasing to loose to that car!!  There was a '64-67 Cutlass running
13-14s.  Some other very impressive cars. 

On the show field mostly Cutlasses, very few big cars.  Worthy of noting
was the green convert '53 Super 88, a nice '60 88.  A couple of Rallye
350's, a bunch of 68-72 442's/Cutlasses.  Several 83-84 H/O's and '85-87
442's.

It was people's choice voting so my brother and I didn't receive any
trophies as both our Cutlasses are not really show worthy, but we had an
awesome time nonetheless.  Also met up with Tom Millard from the list, I
think the only other person from the list that was there.  Talked with him
briefly, a real nice guy.  His '79 Cutlass took third in the modified class
as well.  So congratulations to Tom.

Sorry if I missed anyone else from the list.

All in all it was a good day.

Bill and Sean Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme
'86 Cutlass Supreme Brougham

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 23:33:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: Re: value of a 455 block

In SoCal $500 can buy a complete running 88 or 98 with a 455 in it that you
can test and hear run, all accessories, and a few knick-knacks of trim etc..
of interest to other Oldsmophiles. More like $200-300 I'd say.

Check Bryceman's FAQ at 442.com for info on specific F blocks and G heads.

CoupeKing

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 97 23:08:36 -0500
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: Trans Troubles (fwd)

1.  Using the column shift, leaving it in 1/low it will stay in low only.
     
     That's normal.
     
2.  Leaving it in drive, it will start out in low and at a certain RPM (do 
stock trannies have rev limiters of some type?) it goes into neutral and 
only comes out at a lower RPM.
     
     OK, please provide a little more info.  Do you mean it won't shift up 
     to second (thus the engine RPM just keeps building until you let off 
     the gas)?  Or does the trans actually start slipping at a certain RPM, 
     causing the engine to suddenly increase revs dramatically with no 
     increase in speed of the car?
     
     And, yes, the stock tranny does have a governor which limits RPM at 
     which the trans should upshift.  This is usually used to govern the 
     RPM at wide open throttle.
     
     Will the car finally upshift at a high speed?  If the vacuum modulator 
     is not working properly, the trans will think the engine is at WOT and 
     will upshift on governor command only.  This will be a pretty harsh 
     shift.
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30
     
     
     

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 97 22:22:41 -0500
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re[2]: Sway Bars

     
Greg Beaulieu asked:

1) What's WS-6 mean?

     That would be Pontiac's top-of-the-line suspension package for the 
     Firebird.  I don't know if this was Trans Am only, or if it was also 
     available in the Formulas.
     
2) Why would it be desireable?

     The WS-6 package included a quick-ratio, high effort power steering 
     box which will bolt into an A-body car.  Does wonders for steering 
     response.
     
3) How can I tell whether it is or isn't?

     Unfortunately, I don't have the answer for this one.  I'm sure someone 
     else can provide the info, though.
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 97 22:17:05 -0500
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re[2]: ADVICE NEEDED!!!

As long as Joe has started a rear axle thread...

     Well, _re_started, maybe.

Questions:
1. Is there an easy way to get the bearing off without  a press? What about 
the inner retainer?

     Yes.  Take the axle shaft to a machine shop that has a press.  Write a 
     check.   :-)
     
2. The outer retainer or clamp is not flat between the bolt holes on each of 
the four sides.      Is this normal?

     Not that I've ever seen.
     
3. If it's not normal, does anyone have a spare outer retainer/clamp for 
sale?

     Wish I could help.
     
4. There was RTV or some type of sealer between the retainer/clamp and the 
backing plate. Is it normal to use this stuff to seal the axle or is this 
maybe an attemp to try and compensate for the distorted retainer?

     RTV was not used by the factory in that time frame, so the axle has 
     definitely been apart at some time in the past.  Don't know what this 
     means, exactly...
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30
     
     

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 97 23:21:41 -0500
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: Concerning 350's and 455's

I need help, should I stick with the 350, only 46,000+ miles, or should 
I find a relatively good 455?
     
     Matt,
     
     What's it going into?  A 73 Cutlass?  These cars are large and heavy, 
     so the 455 is the only choice, in my opinion.  Keep in mind, however, 
     that I don't consider anything with less than 400 cubic inches to be a 
     real engine anyway :-)
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 20:56:05 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Dual-Snorkel Air Cleaner (Ram Air)

 
>It just hung out there, sucking air from the engine compartment.  It's
>only about 5-6" long, not much.
Wow, just like the **old** days?!  


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser (twin hauler)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 97 23:27:47 -0500
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re[2]: rear seal

..Of real interest is the fact that these rear main seals have a F*RD part 
number on them. I'm trying to track that number back now, as my 
motor guy feels that the rubber type is a better unit.  Ol' JM  charged 
me $15 for this little ol' F*RD part...
     
     It's the rear main seal from a F*rd 460, and you are correct, the 
     rubber unit is better than the old rope design.
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 21:00:37 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: PARTS: Clean-out Sale

I'll take the '64 taillight lenses (both) & the V8 emblem.

I'll send money - what about shipping, is it incld?  I've bought a couple
things from you before.




Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser (twin hauler)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 97 23:24:46 -0500
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re[2]: Concerning 350's and 455's

     
Of course, I'd also have to swap tranny's too right? I'd need a th400?
     
     That would be my first choice, as it's a bolt-in swap (well, actually, 
     a manual would be my first choice, but I assumed you wanted an 
     automatic).  The only other option would be a newer OD trans, but be 
     prepared to spend a lot of cash.
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 97 23:41:47 -0500
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: READ ME...questioning authority

     Brad,
     
     People who think they know it all really screw it up for those of us 
     who do...  :-)
     
     Seriously, you are absolutely correct to question authority.  I don't 
     think anyone here will ever claim to know everything about Oldsmobiles 
     (witness my recent faux pax on the routing of single-exhaust big block 
     pipes).  I've also found during my >20 years of messing with cars that 
     there are a lot of opinions out there (on everything, not just 
     Oldsmobiles).  I'll never forget, for example, the speed shop owner in 
     Boston who swore up and down that the aluminum 215 Buick I was 
     planning to rebuild and install in a Vega would never run right, 
     supporting this assertion with a list of bad things he had seen this 
     engine do.  Naturally, I built the engine anyway, and it was the 
     perfect powerplant for a Vega wagon.  The bottom line it that you 
     should be skeptical of any info you get, and if you get more than one 
     opinion, you should definitely check things out for yourself.  I've 
     found that many such opinions are based on a single bad experience, 
     and more often than not, this bad experience was caused by a mistake 
     on the part of the person with the opinion (ie, used the wrong part, 
     installed it incorrectly, etc.).  In the case of your tire example, 
     the variable in the equation is rim width and offset.  I have 
     personally run this size tire on 15X7 SSIIs with no problem, but 15X7 
     aftermarket rims (with a different offset) caused the tires to rub.  
     Get all the facts and make an informed decision.  Just remember, not 
     even the factory service manuals are 100% accurate!
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 97 23:44:11 -0500
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: CCR All Olds Show

Met Joe Padavano, who thankfully brought his "Dirty W Thirty" so my car didn't 
look ~too~ bad.
     
     Glad to do my part :-)
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 97 23:18:39 -0500
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re[2]: VIN Number

OK, time for dumb questions:

     There are no dumb questions.  Happy to share this info with all on the 
     list, as I think it is of general interest.
     
1.)  Where do you find the above information? 

     I get it from the factory service manual, which provides this data in 
     the very first section.

2.)  Is it available on the internet?

     That I don't know.  Is this in the Olds FAQ Dave?

3.)  If it is available in book form, is it by year, by make, by model,???

     Each service manual typically covers a single year, however there are 
     a number of third-party books on the market which have reprinted the 
     data for all years covered by the books.  Check the Classic Motobooks 
     catalog.

4.)  Is there different books for different tags?  VIN vs. COWL

     Both are usually covered in the same reference document.
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30
     
     
     

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 20:57:24 -0700
From: Gary Manton <sasgmm@unx.sas.com>
Subject: Numbers question?

Anyway, another issue, not as important as the last, just gaining
information.....  Just below the windshield, and under the hood was a plate
with the following information, I was wondering if anyone could help in
understanding all of it......

64    3467BODYLA  3833
TRIM 993  PAINT W

Thanks,

G
          \\|//
          (o o)                     
~~~~~~oOOo~(_)~oOOo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Gary M. Manton					SAS Institute
Business Solutions Division			Phoenix, AZ  85012
(602) 265-1616 ext. 230 - voice		        (602) 265-8585 - fax
						(888) 982-4079 - Pager

"In business as in life, your chances of being run over are doubled
if you stay in the middle of the road"
~~~~~~oooo~~~~~oooo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 00:06:05 -0400
From: "Steve B." <steveb@thecia.net>
Subject: Re: rear seal

Rod Beydler wrote:
> 
> Use the diesel rear seal or is it the 460 f**d, both are one piece. Anybody
> out there can help out on this?


Well the Ford 460 used both one piece and two piece rear main seals. The
460 came out in '68 (I think??) and used a two piece seal up till the
mid 80's then it went to the superior one piece rear seal. The seal that
fits in the Olds big blocks is the two piece seal. When I rebuilt my 455
I just went to the local parts store and got a Fel-Pro seal, cheaper and
easier than getting one from Ford or Mondello...

Steve
71 Cutlass S 455
93 Mustang LX 5.0
86 Mustang LX ( w/'88 T-Bird turbo 2.3)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 20:57:20 -0700
From: Gary Manton <sasgmm@unx.sas.com>
Subject: Re: coolant overflow

I'm back, it seems that my engine has called it quits, could not even turn
the belts by hand.  Turn the key, and not even a click.........

Anyway, now my dilemma, and I'm looking for all of your expert opinions.  I
need a new engine or to rebuild mine, or both, find a new engine (one to get
me through for a while) and then rebuild mine.  This '64 has the 394 4Bbl,
with a tranny that is PNDSLR.  So my question is this, besides the 394 what
other options do I have?  Will I have to replace the tranny as well?

I can't wait to get it up and running, so your help is greatly appreciated
as always.

G

ps...I'm a layman when it comes to this stuff, so as non-techie as you can
be would help.




At 01:50 PM 10/12/97 +0300, you wrote:
>Gary Manton wrote:
>
>> I added some coolant to my '64 Dynamic 88 with a 394, and there is no
>> overflow tank.
>No, there isn't, but there is a hose coming out of the radiator near the cap.
>When the cap lets steam out under over-pressure, this hose guides the vapor
>and fluid under the car.
>
>> It started smoking after a while, which I thought was just
>> the overflow hitting the engine.  It eventually started smoking a lot, and
>> then some rather annoying knocking.
>Smoke colour ?
>- blue				Oil burning in the cylider(s), nothing to do with
>					coolant.
>
>- white (steam)		Depends. If coming out of exhaust pipe, might be a broken
>					head gasket or other blown gasket allowing coolant
>					go into exhaust chamber.
>
>					Might also be oil dripping onto exhaust pipe. 
>
>> I pulled off the road, and as I got to
>> the top of the exit ramp, she decided to die.  It was there that any lights
>> decided to come on, gen and oil. The heat light never came on.
>Electrical problem as well. Just one of those days.... This (on  my opinion)
>has nothing in common with the coolant. Sometimes if there is a huge air
>pocket in engine coolant system, the hot-light may not light up.
>
>> I burnt
>> most of my oil and it was pretty much dry.  I am looking for advice on two
>> topics, first if anyone has experienced this, and what might be the issues
>> to look for as I start to dissect the car.  Second, I will be looking for an
>> overflow tank for the radiator, and wondering if anyone had any suggestions.
>There You see, 'twas the oil burning.
>
>Do You have the AC option ?
>
>Mine AC pump broke in a way that jammed the pump alltogether. Didn't notice
nothing
>until I saw the smoke coming under the hood. The belts had warmed the balancer
>and fried the rubber parts away. The result was a balancer with a loose
metal ring
>making awful noise. 
> 
>-- 
>x----------------------------------------------------x
>x Anneli & Esko Ilola     mailto:esko.ilola@tele.fi  x
>x                          phone:+358 2040 3439      x
>x Oldsmobile 98 -64 4DHT  Holiday sports sedan       x
>x "Where the action is...."                          x
>x----------------------------------------------------x
>
>
          \\|//
          (o o)                     
~~~~~~oOOo~(_)~oOOo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Gary M. Manton					SAS Institute
Business Solutions Division			Phoenix, AZ  85012
(602) 265-1616 ext. 230 - voice		        (602) 265-8585 - fax
						(888) 982-4079 - Pager

"In business as in life, your chances of being run over are doubled
if you stay in the middle of the road"
~~~~~~oooo~~~~~oooo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Oct 97 00:08:06 -0500
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Experimental Engines (was: Old Car Magazines)

..I was wondering if anyone is familiar with or has seen any of the 
experimental motors olds built but did not use, in one issue dated July 1969 
they have a two page color layout of 7 Oldsmobile engines that never hit the 
streets...
     
     Tom,
     
     I also have that issue.  If you will notice the green, single overhead 
     cam 455 in the back row, notice that it has two Q-jet carbs on a 
     cross-ram type of manifold.  I actually obtained one of these factory 
     cross rams at a swap meet years ago, and have it sitting in my 
     basement.  The manifold will physically fit on a regular 455, but the 
     manifold's size precludes the use of a regular distributor (neither a 
     points-type nor an HEI will fit), so I have not yet been able to run 
     the manifold on a car.  I assume I'll need to fabricate some sort of 
     crank-trigger ignition system, but since these really didn't exist in 
     1969, I'm wondering what the factory used on this application.  
     Perhaps some sort of offset drive distributor?  I've seen these used 
     on 6-71 supercharger installations.
     
     The two Q-jets, by the way, mount "back-to-back", with the primaries 
     facing the valve covers and with a special bellcrank linkage which 
     runs between the two.  Large threaded allen-head plugs in the 
     manifold's plenums provide access to the manifold-to-cylinder head 
     bolts.
     
     Anyone ever see this engine or intake before?  Any info on the 
     distributor configuration used would be appreciated.
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #901
********************************

