
oldsmobile-digest     Thursday, November 20 1997     Volume 01 : Number 963



Classic Olds in Print This Month
Re: Speedo Question
Last Word
Re: EGR is not A.I.R. (was: olds help, ?'s, info, goodies
Re: Info for my 403 olds 
Re: Cooling topics
Re: ??? about #6's
Re[2]: Speedo Question
Re: Where to Put the Toll Money (Was Re: transmission problem)
Technology improvements (Re: My car can beat yours!?&%*)
Re: 455 in a pickup
Re: '65 400 Engine
Re: Oh, C'mon....
Re: Last Word
Re: E heads Big vs Small  valves and WTB(455)
Re: Where to Put the Toll Money
Re: EGR is not A.I.R. (was: olds help, ?'s, info, goodies
[none]
Re: Oh, C'mon....
[Non-Olds] but VERY disturbing!
RE: 
Info and parts for 74-76 air bags car
Re: part infermation
Re: Last Word
VIN HELP
Re: Last Word
Re: Info - '78 Olds Cutlass Supreme Brougham w/T-tops
SS wheel questions / gasket question
Re: Where to Put the Toll Money
Rear Suspension Noise and other things
Re: UNBOUNCE: 403 Carb H*lp
SUBSCRIBE
Re: SS wheel questions / gasket question
Literature
Head Gasket/Valve Problems....
Re: 10.50 ET 70 Cutlass?
Re: Retro fitting OEM A/C
Re: 10.50 ET 70 Cutlass?
Re: Literature
455 in IH truck
missing person 69 Conv
UNBOUNCE: '74 Toro Airbags
That putt..putt.. feeling??
Re: That putt..putt.. feeling??
Re: [Non-Olds] but VERY disturbing!
Re: That putt..putt.. feeling??
part infermation
Re: Lexus bashing 
G-body wheels
installing a calais instrument in a supreme (instruction for an idiot please)
Re: Head Gasket/Valve Problems....
Re: phantom 57

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 14:46:04 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Classic Olds in Print This Month

Stopped in at the newstand at lunchtime today and saw 2 magazines that 
featured Olds stuff... had to buy them, of course:

1. "Collectible Automobile" has a good-looking article on the "Legacy 
of Ransom E. Olds" (haven't read it yet) that features profiles of the 
'03 Curved Dash, the '10 Limited, the '40 (Hydra-Matic). the '49 
(Rocket V-8), '53 Fiesta, '66 Toro, '78 Cutlass Supreme, '90 Trofeo, 
'95 Aurora, and '98 Intrigue. Hope it reads as good as it looks!

2. "Cars and Parts" is featuring part 2 of the article it started last 
month on the Olds Centennial. Some nice shots of cars that were in the 
show.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 13:18:14 -0600
From: "Green, Andrew" <acg@datalogics.com>
Subject: Re: Speedo Question

> A rattle that has been in the driver's side dash of the
> '78 Delta ever since I got it sounds to me like it's in 
> the speedometer. I have a few questions:

Speedometers don't usually rattle; they squeak. (Well, _I_ think there's
a difference. :-) If you're not getting a rhythmic chirp-chirp-chirp
from the speedo cable, maybe you just have something cracked loose in
the vicinity. The light-blue plastic housing in particular gets really
brittle over the years, and I remember opening up the dash on one '78
Ninety Eight and finding half the mounting tabs cracked off where the
housing screws into the frame of the dash.

> the service manual says you can detach the speedo cable 
> but doesn't say how. How?

Behind the speedo, work your finger up to the point where the cable
enters the back of the speedo and you should feel a springy collar/clip
around the flange of the cable. Press the clip up (i.e. towards you)
until it clears the edge of the flange, and you can then pull the cable
out. Reassembly is the reverse of above; push it in until it clicks. You
may have to twist it slightly one way or the other until the square
drive core seats in the socket.

You can make it easier on yourself by disconnecting the cable under the
hood (especially easy if you have cruise control). Once you have
released all the speedo mounting screws, push on the cable from under
the hood and it'll shove the speedo assembly outwards a couple of inches
(a few centimeters, on Canadian models only) so you can get behind it
much easier (e.g. to disconnect the speedo cable, wiring harnesses,
etc.)

> assuming I get it out, anyone ever try to repair one
> of these things?

Never had a bad one. I think you'll find the rattle once you get into
the dash and I kind of doubt it's going to be _in_ the speedo. If it is
a broken speedo, just swap in a junkyard unit. The gearing is done at
the transmission end so you shouldn't need to worry about getting a
wrong ratio. The odometer assembly can be swapped over from one speedo
to another; it's not hard to do if you're good with small parts.

> an alternative is one I found in a junkyard the other 
> week; I wouldn't mind swapping it in regardless because
> it has a trip odometer.

Sure. You need the faceplates too, don't you? Or does the reset
knob come out down below the dial? I don't remember. I'm pretty
sure the light mask is different, since the trip odometer is
visible through a separate hole.

> But does anyone know how easy/hard it is to reset the 
> speedo's main (what do you call the non-trip odometer 
> anyway) odometer so that it is approximately the same
> as what mine currently shows?

See above. You might have to weasel out a couple of spring
steel retainer clips or fiddly screws to release the odometer,
but it's not too hard to do.
- --
Andrew C. Green             (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.            email: acg@datalogics.com
101 N. Wacker, Ste. 1800    http://www.datalogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301     Fax: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 14:47:46 -0500
From: "Paul L. Fikaris" <fikaris@en.com>
Subject: Last Word

Superman can beat up Spiderman ;-)

Paul L. Fikaris
'69 Delta 88 Conv 455
162.345 sec@14.091 MPH
Slo-Ry-Dur
fikaris@en.com
Imagine a world with no hypothetical situations

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 15:04:11 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: EGR is not A.I.R. (was: olds help, ?'s, info, goodies

>>      Good point, however I must think that this is strictly an unintended
>>      function in the "it's not a bug, it's a feature" vein, as the bump
>>      existed as early as 1966, long before EGR was even conceived.  Clearly
>>      the actual intent of the bump is to provide a location into which the
>>      attach feature for the A.I.R. tubes could be machined.  Since it was
>>      easier to maintain one casting design instead of two, the bump was
>>      used on all heads, whether or not A.I.R. was used.
>
>Why don't you contact the man who really knows>>> Mondello

Who knows _what_? Sounds like Joe P. covered all the bases there. Mondello
wasn't part of the original Olds engineering team that designed the heads,
so I doubt that he'd have much more to offer (I'm sure he'd willingly offer
more, but I'm not sure it'd be much more helpful).

Just as an aside, I respect Mondello and his work with Oldsmobiles, but he
is something short of absolutely omniscient (or should that be
"olds-niscient"? :)
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	     MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado		 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX	 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited	 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 15:09:58 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Info for my 403 olds 

>  Dear Olds know it all's .
>Hi I am writing this E mail cuz i have no idea about what i can do to the 403

What do you want to know? Look in the FAQ, and then tell us what questions
you've got.

>The 403 Olds is not in a Oldsmobile car of any kind , back in 1977-1979
>Pontiac 
>had the 403 as a option for the Trans Am , formally known as the K code motor

As it was for all full-size '77-'79 B-O-P cars, and the '77 Cutlass. My '78
Electra came with one, and the rebuilt one I put in there came from a '77
T/A. Good motor, and lots can be done with it, depending on what you want.

>  I was told the other day to check out some parts that go by the name or
>code 
>W-30, or i may have gottin it wrong, but I am sure u know what i am talking

The W-30 was (for most years) the ultimate performance option on the Olds
442 big-block. The parts that would optimize your 403 would not come from
any year W-30. Again, see the FAQ for information on improving the 403 (as
well as for the motor's limitations). Heads and cam come first to mind as
the things to change.

>My car is not running so good the motor keeps bogging on me and i dont know
>why.
>I had the Carb rebuildt 3 times , up untill i screwed up the fuel bowl
>chamber in the body of the carb by stripping the thred . I know that I now
>need a carb , but that wont stop it from bogging , can u send me Info on the

Sounds like your secondary air valve spring wrap is too loose or even
broken. Simple adjustment; see the Toro FAQ page for a nice tuning guide
for the Q-jet. ( http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/qualqj.htm )
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	     MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado		 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX	 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited	 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 15:20:44 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Cooling topics

>> The trouble is when it doesn't stabilize, but keeps climbing past 240'
and 250'.
>
>Yeah, you'd be pretty much FUBAR then... 
>
>How hot does in have to get before it triggers the idiot light?  When my
>20 year-old 195 T'stat (in the '78 Delta) stuck closed, the idiot light
>came on (of course), and I'm just curious how hot it actually was...

The idiot light usually comes on at 254'. Since that light is a command to
shut off the engine, and the factory would want you to shut off the engine
before you did any damage, *and* they're the ones footing the bill if you
run your engine too hot under warranty, then I'd have to imagine that they
determined it safe (not optimal, but safe) to run the engine at anything
below 254' coolant temperature.

So, even if the engine climbed past 240', though it's not desireable, it's
not necessarily dangerous.

Of course, the big problem here is that 254' relates to the *coolant*
temperature; the temperature of various engine parts is, of course, much
hotter, so it's possible for some parts to be damaged, even if the coolant
temp is not hot enough to trigger the hot light.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	     MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado		 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX	 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited	 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 15:16:44 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: ??? about #6's

>Should I stick with the stock valve size of the #6 heads when I put them
>on my '73 or should I go slightly bigger or MUCH bigger?

You've got a bigger cam in there, right? Since the stock units were, what,
1.74"/1.5" valves, I'd say up yourself to at least the 2.00"/1.62" setup.

>Also, about those hardened seats, are they just for the exhaust valves
>or are there also some for the intake valves? In Mondello's catalog,
>they only list exhaust seats.

Just exhaust; the intake seat is much cooler, since it doesn't have the hot
exhaust gasses flowing over it.

>The '73's had smaller dished pistons than the '70's right? This will
>yeild me more compression?

Yes; see the chart in the FAQ for more information.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	     MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado		 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX	 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited	 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 97 14:59:32 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re[2]: Speedo Question

<...snip excellent discussion of spedo and cable R&R...>
     
See above. You might have to weasel out a couple of spring 
steel retainer clips or fiddly screws to release the odometer, 
but it's not too hard to do.

     That's very true.  I've read a lot about the safeguards put in place 
     to prevent odometer tampering, but once the spedo is out, I've had no 
     problem setting the odometer to whatever I wanted to.  The only thing 
     to be careful of is that there are several very thin plastic tabs 
     sticking out of the odo barrel which lock the individual number wheels 
     into position on the housing.  These are very easy to break off if 
     mishandled.
     
     And in case you're wondering, I usually set the odo to 00000 when I 
     completely rebuild a car - a car that I intend to keep, not one I 
     would plan to sell.
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 11:45:02 -0500 (EST)
From: "Peg O'Connor" <peg@grove.ufl.edu>
Subject: Re: Where to Put the Toll Money (Was Re: transmission problem)

> Been there, done that. Finally I got a few plastic 35mm film canisters,
> filled each with 40 cents (good opportunity to get rid of a ton of
> pennies; each canister can hold just that much) and tossed them in the
> center console. So when I'm approaching the tollbooth and busy trying to
> evade the morons that cut across six lanes as soon as they realize they
> don't have exact change, it's trivial to reach in, grab a canister, flip
> the lid off with a thumb, stick it out the window and dump the whole
> thing in the basket at once. Piece o' cake.

And a normal-sized prescription pill bottle holds $10 worth of quarters,
which is great for long trips, especially for those of us who get stuck
with $2.00 tolls on the Florida Turnpike.

8)
peg
1978 Cutlass Calais
1986 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 12:43:58 -0500 (EST)
From: CRuper1@aol.com
Subject: Technology improvements (Re: My car can beat yours!?&%*)

In a message dated 97-11-19 05:03:43 EST, you write:

<< 
 But as long as everyone is putting in their 2 cents worth I may as well
 give mine.  Today's technology is fantastic.  Take the 300 horse Seville.
 That is a family car that gets good milage, does an honest 150 MPH and
 passes emissions all on a measly 279 cubic inch V-8. The same holds true
 for a C5 Corvette. I have driven one and it is AWSOME!!
 
 I still love the plant-you-in-the seat feeling of those old big block V-8's
 of the 60's and 70's. If only we put the fuel-injection technology and head
 breathability into those old motors, just think of the power potential you
 would have with those big cubes!  I know it can be done with aftermarket
 parts, but the factory stuff is nice.
 
  >>

A recent Hot Rod issue done an article on a bolt-on head for the smallblock
Chevy motors.  It was a four valve arrangement, using the standard
cam/pushrod arrangement with some provisions made to the block for pushrod
clearance.  This modification would be an interesting one to see applied to
an Olds motor to see how it would work out.  They claimed that the way things
were arranged, there was no loss of low/middle power to speak of, and of
course, a gain on top.  One thing that works out good is that significant
flow numbers could be reached with their head, and a mild camshaft, allowing
a better valvetrain arrangement (lower lift, allows for less problems/higher
rpm's).

As far as the issue of fuel injection, this would also probably help out too.
 Alot of the gains from F.I. seem to be in the idle/torque/drivability areas,
but with a good arrangement, overall flow could be increased too (I'm
figuring).  It's a matter of spending the money on a good unit/system.
 Geez.... milk some EXTRA torque out of an Olds motor, hhmmm....  that would
be nice to have.... :)

Soo...., anybody up for making some four valve heads, and purchasing an F.I.
system to see how it works....

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 12:44:11 -0500 (EST)
From: CRuper1@aol.com
Subject: Re: 455 in a pickup

In a message dated 97-11-17 09:04:14 EST, you write:

<< 
 I'm toying with the idea of puttin a 455 into my '80 ch*v (ducking in
anticipation of 
 flames!)   I was wondering if anyone had done a similar project?   I'm
mostly wondering 
 about the motor mounts, if the Olds ones will just bolt up or if I'll have
to do some 
 "moderfercations"    I think I have a t400 from a deisel lined up if I do
the swap
 
  >>

Sooooo, looking to increase the value of the truck by adding some Olds parts
to it?..... :-)

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 15:40:17 -0500 (EST)
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: Re: '65 400 Engine

Yes, I still have the '65 400 engine. The engine is all rebuilt with new
pistons, cam, lifters, rebuilt heads, water pump, etc.. It is sitting on an
engine stand with zero miles on the rebuild. It will need a new gasket set as
I partially disassembled the motor to evaluate things when I bought it.

Asking $1500.

Peter 310.519.7554
CoupeKing@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 16:06:42 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: Oh, C'mon....

Mike Hall wrote:

>>>My 77 Mustang II with a 2.3 carbed 4Cyl run a consistant
>>>13.345-13.365, most being in the 13.35 category...

>>>BTW: The 77 2.3 is rated at 92HP, brand new...  Mine was 20 years old.

I'm trying real hard to bite my tongue....

S.D.W.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 16:12:22 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: Last Word

Paul L. Fikaris wrote:
 
> Superman can beat up Spiderman ;-)

Yeah, but Mighty Mouse has got 'em all beat....

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 16:10:40 -0500 (EST)
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: Re: E heads Big vs Small  valves and WTB(455)

In a message dated 97-11-19 13:40:16 EST, you write:

<< 
  >>
i thought E heads were made only in 70!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 16:36:47 -0800
From: Bill Gochenour <3STICKS@stjohns.edu>
Subject: Re: Where to Put the Toll Money

Peg O'Connor wrote:
> 
> > Been there, done that. Finally I got a few plastic 35mm film canisters,
> > filled each with 40 cents (good opportunity to get rid of a ton of
> > pennies; each canister can hold just that much) and tossed them in the
> > center console. So when I'm approaching the tollbooth and busy trying to
> > evade the morons that cut across six lanes as soon as they realize they
> > don't have exact change, it's trivial to reach in, grab a canister, flip
> > the lid off with a thumb, stick it out the window and dump the whole
> > thing in the basket at once. Piece o' cake.
> 
> And a normal-sized prescription pill bottle holds $10 worth of quarters,
> which is great for long trips, especially for those of us who get stuck
> with $2.00 tolls on the Florida Turnpike.
> 
> 8)
> peg
> 1978 Cutlass Calais
> 1986 Cutlass Supreme


Save yourself alot of time and trouble.....If the "EASY-PASS" system is
available, open an account, they'll give you tags for up to three cars,
they work great here in NY/NJ/PA. Plus you get a discount on the price
of the toll! If it's not available where you are inquire about it.
Nothing is better than passing 100+ cars waiting at the toll plaza. At
worst, you'll maybe have 5 cars in an "EASY PASS" lane at time. I used
mine every weekend all summer long going to the Pocono's. Best of all
you don't have to open your window in the bad weather anymore !!

Check it out !

- --
                                                     
Bill !                                         

                                              _           _       ___
1986 442 "The Perfect 10"                   /  |        /  |    /  _  \
1983 Hurst/Olds 15th Anniversary Edition  /    |      /    |   |_|   | |
     Oldsmobile 100th Centennial # 2218 /    | |_   /  / | |_      /  /
1993 Chevrolet Lumina Z-34             |_____   _| |_____   _|   /  /__
1997 Chevrolet Monte Carlo Z-34              |_|         |_|   |_______|

* * * * * * * * *
* COMMING  SOON *---------> www.3STICKS.com
* * * * * * * * *

	http://area51.stjohns.edu/~toychest     (updated 11/10/97)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 14:05:59 -0800
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: EGR is not A.I.R. (was: olds help, ?'s, info, goodies

Robert Barry wrote:

> is something short of absolutely omniscient (or should that be
> "olds-niscient"? :)

Good word and pun! :-)

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 17:08:38 -0500 (EST)
From: Shaun Miller <smille02@astro.ocis.temple.edu>
Subject: [none]

I think pink panther is better than superman or mighty mouse.  


"Quad 4, food for when you get hungry for speed"
"buy one and youll know"
"What was that blur, just a Q4"


shaun

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 17:10:12 -0500 (EST)
From: Shaun Miller <smille02@astro.ocis.temple.edu>
Subject: Re: Oh, C'mon....

On Wed, 19 Nov 1997, Dave Ward wrote:

> Mike Hall wrote:
> 
> >>>My 77 Mustang II with a 2.3 carbed 4Cyl run a consistant
> >>>13.345-13.365, most being in the 13.35 category...
> 
> >>>BTW: The 77 2.3 is rated at 92HP, brand new...  Mine was 20 years old.
> 
> I'm trying real hard to bite my tongue....
> 
> S.D.W.
> 
Im trying not to laugh out loud because im in a library!! good joke!

sm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 17:22:29 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: [Non-Olds] but VERY disturbing!

It was just on our local news. A headless and handless body was found
today in Blissfield. The site is about 1 mile away from our house out
here in the country in a field. Scary! I think it's time my family
locked the doors!

Sorry about being non-Olds,
- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 16:54:40 -0600
From: Lucas Frick <lfrick@fibersystems.com>
Subject: RE: 

> "Quad 4, food for when you get hungry for speed"
> 
	I eat quad 4s for breakfast!
	Luke 71 442  HA couldnt resist

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 16:38:14 +0000
From: Bob Brandys <oehcs@flash.net>
Subject: Info and parts for 74-76 air bags car

Torandos came with air cushions or air bags in74-76.  I am looking for
parts and info on these and other oldsmobiles with these air bags.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 16:54:58 -0600
From: Daniel Starnes <starnesd@ilcc.cc.ia.us>
Subject: Re: part infermation

Daniel Starnes wrote:
> 
> TO WHOM IT MAY COCERN I HAVE A 1980 OLDS CUTLASS. I PRUCHASCED
>     THIS VECH. TO RESTORE IT . IN THE PROCESSE SOMEONE STOLL MY T-TOPS.
>     IF ANY ONE HAS INFO. ON WHO TO CONTAC FOR NEW ONES PLEASE E-MAIL
>     ME ALSO LOOKING FOR A GOOD FRONT CLIP.
> 
>                                         THANK YOU
>                                         STARNESD@ILCC.CC.IA.US

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 14:59:41 -0800
From: Erik Badzinski <erikreb@netbridge.net>
Subject: Re: Last Word

Dave Ward wrote:
> 
> Paul L. Fikaris wrote:
> 
> > Superman can beat up Spiderman ;-)
> 
> Yeah, but Mighty Mouse has got 'em all beat....

Personally,

Captain America is the champ.  No doubt about it.

Erik Badzinski,
'72 Cutlass S

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 15:03:47 -0800
From: Erik Badzinski <erikreb@netbridge.net>
Subject: VIN HELP

Hi,

Hi, I am having trouble deciphering my car.  Maybe someone can help me.
I have a '72 Cutlass S, and I looked up the Serial number on the drivers
side dashboard no problem.  But on my engine though, there is a number
on the front of my engine, right below the thermostat and Intake
Manifold.  And right to the right of the number is this shiny, gold
colored bolt.  The number is: 145747.  Thanks for everyones help in
advance.

Erik Badzinski,
'72 Cutlass S

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 16:27:15 -0700
From: Dustin Cross <livnrt@mssl.uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Last Word

Dave Ward wrote:
> 
> Paul L. Fikaris wrote:
> 
> > Superman can beat up Spiderman ;-)
> 
> Yeah, but Mighty Mouse has got 'em all beat....

only if you figure weight/power ratio on them!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 18:34:25 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: Info - '78 Olds Cutlass Supreme Brougham w/T-tops

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01BCF450.9885D540
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Wayne,

I am 55 & think of a collector car as pre 1975.  The end of the muscle =
car era has effectively ended major interest for me.  When I got into =
this hobby about 1972 with my 1969 AMX, 1970 GS, & 1962 Jetfire, I was =
told by many in the clubs that these cars were much too new & would =
never have any value.  I thought about this advice but I loved the cars =
so much that I continued to collect the poor worthless things for the =
next quarter century. Eventually I became part of the mainstream of the =
hobby instead of playing on the fringes.

People like you are much like me 25 years ago.  Few see any value in the =
1978 anything.  I am not excited about these cars any more than my old =
friends were about mine in 1973.  I persisted in my enjoyment of those =
cars that interested me & I aften chuckle about the comments made so =
long ago about my new cars w/so much plastic & up-to-date conveniences.  =
I now know that I was right all along.  I'm betting you will be found =
right too.  Follow your own instincts & enjoy it.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama

P.S.  I'll bet that you know that these cars are worth very little on =
the market.  Collect them while you can.

   =20
   =20
    Hi all,
    =20
    I have a 1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass Brougham, V8 (350), loaded =
w/T-tops.  I have gotten conflicting stories from several people on =
whether or not the car is worth collecting.  Some say that it has a lot =
of value because there weren't that many made with the T-tops and others =
say that the only thing that really makes it a collector car is its age. =
 So I pose these questions:
    =20
   =20
    =20
    The main thing is the collector part, but any info would be =
appreciated.  Thanks in advance.
    =20
    Wayne
         Email        - wldake@execpc.com
         Homepage - www.execpc.com/~wldake
    **********
    A fanatic is one who can't change his mind and won't change the =
subject.
         -Winston Churchill
         =20

- ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01BCF450.9885D540
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 =
HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#c0c0c0>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Lucida Calligraphy" =
size=3D2>Wayne,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Lucida Calligraphy" =
size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Lucida Calligraphy" size=3D2>I am 55 &amp; think of a =
collector=20
car as pre 1975.&nbsp; The end of the muscle car era has effectively =
ended major=20
interest for me.&nbsp; When I got into this hobby about 1972 with my =
1969 AMX,=20
1970 GS, &amp; 1962 Jetfire, I was told by many in the clubs that these =
cars=20
were much too new &amp; would never have any value.&nbsp; I thought =
about this=20
advice but I loved the cars so much that I continued to collect the poor =

worthless things for the next quarter century. Eventually I became part =
of the=20
mainstream of the hobby instead of playing on the fringes.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Lucida Calligraphy" size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Lucida Calligraphy" size=3D2>People like you are much =
like me 25=20
years ago.&nbsp; Few see any value in the 1978 anything.&nbsp; I am not =
excited=20
about these cars any more than my old friends were about mine in =
1973.&nbsp; I=20
persisted in my enjoyment of those cars that interested me &amp; I aften =
chuckle=20
about the comments made so long ago about my new cars w/so much plastic =
&amp;=20
up-to-date conveniences.&nbsp; I now know that I was right all =
along.&nbsp; I'm=20
betting you will be found right too.&nbsp; Follow your own instincts =
&amp; enjoy=20
it.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Lucida Calligraphy" size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Lucida Calligraphy" size=3D2>Bill =
Culp<BR>Decatur,=20
Alabama</FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Lucida Calligraphy" =
size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Lucida Calligraphy" size=3D2>P.S.&nbsp; I'll bet that =
you know=20
that these cars are worth very little on the market.&nbsp; Collect them =
while=20
you can.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><BR><BR>&nbsp;</DIV></FONT>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D2>Hi =
all,</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Comic Sans MS" =
size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D2>I have a 1978 Oldsmobile =
Cutlass=20
    Brougham, V8 (350), loaded w/T-tops.&nbsp; I have gotten conflicting =
stories=20
    from several people on whether or not the car is worth =
collecting.&nbsp;=20
    Some say that it has a lot of value because there weren't that many =
made=20
    with the T-tops and others say that the only thing that really makes =
it a=20
    collector car is its age.&nbsp; So I pose these =
questions:</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D2>The main thing is the =
collector part,=20
    but any info would be appreciated.&nbsp; Thanks in =
advance.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Comic Sans MS"=20
    size=3D2>Wayne<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
    Email&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; - <A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:wldake@execpc.com">wldake@execpc.com</A><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;=20
    Homepage - <A=20
    =
href=3D"http://www.execpc.com/~wldake">www.execpc.com/~wldake</A><BR>****=
******<BR>A=20
    fanatic is one who can't change his mind and won't change the=20
    subject.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; -Winston=20
    Churchill<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
</FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01BCF450.9885D540--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 16:37:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: PSHENG@scuacc.scu.edu
Subject: SS wheel questions / gasket question

I have a 72 cutlass supreme with disc brakes, and I was wondering...

1. SS1 wheels won't fit because of the disc brakes, right?
2. do SS3 wheels from the later body styles (73 and up) fit the earlier
   models? Is the backspacing the same?
3. what is the correct shade of silver for SSII's? my olds facts & figures
   manual says it's "cast grey"- is that light silver like aluminum or 
   darker grey like cast iron?

and now the gasket question: I read here that you should put exhaust manifold
gaskets on with the metal side facing the manifold.  Why is that?  I just 
installed exh. manifold gaskets on my engine (some idiot previously applied
orange silicone to the mating surfaces) and the directions that came with the
fel-pro gaskets said to put the metal side facing the HEAD, not the manifold.
I heard someone before say that the metal side goes towards the manifold, but 
I followed the directions & put them on metal side facing the head.

Also... if anybody has a set of 4 SSII or SSIII rims in good condition w/
caps and trim rings for sale at a reasonable price, please contact me at
psheng@scuacc.scu.edu  I live in Palo Alto, CA and want to buy them from
someone in the local area (I don't know what shipping would run on those,
but I know I couldn't afford it!)

Paul Sheng
72 cutlass supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 20:00:34 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Where to Put the Toll Money

Bill Gochenour wrote:
> 
> Save yourself alot of time and trouble.....If the "EASY-PASS" system is
> available, open an account, they'll give you tags for up to three cars,
> they work great here in NY/NJ/PA. Plus you get a discount on the price
> of the toll! If it's not available where you are inquire about it.
> Nothing is better than passing 100+ cars waiting at the toll plaza. At
> worst, you'll maybe have 5 cars in an "EASY PASS" lane at time. I used
> mine every weekend all summer long going to the Pocono's. Best of all
> you don't have to open your window in the bad weather anymore !!

Yeah, we have Fast-Toll here in the D.C. area.  I haven't bothered because
I only use the toll-road occasionally and only for a couple of months at a
time.  Thanks for the tip, though.
_____________________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.erols.com/adcockjk

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 20:05:24 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Rear Suspension Noise and other things

Howdy folks.  My car (84 CSC) has developed a sorta high-pitched clunk in
the rear end that occurs when there is light to moderate side-to-side
force.  It actually sounds a WHOLE lot like gasoline sloshing around in a
baffle-less gas tank, but the noise has only recently developed.  Baffles
don't break off, do they?  I'm guessing that is is a crack in a suspension
arm back there that is flexing and making that soft popping noise.  Is this
a possibility?  The car only has 81k miles on it.

I'm u*subscribing from the real-time list towards the end of the week, but
I will be on the digest version, so please don't let that keep you from
replying.  Thanks a bunch and happy "future" turkey day.
_____________________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.erols.com/adcockjk

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 18:59:04 -0700 (MST)
From: Ray <rayc@U.Arizona.EDU>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: 403 Carb H*lp

Greg,
In my 87 Cutlass, I have a 79 403.  It easily propels my car down the
track in about 13.5 seconds with a TH350 and 3.08 gears.  If you would
like to know exactly what's in the motor (under a Carter AFB 750, by the
way), e-mail and I'll give you a good setup for it.  The car is absolutely
still very streetable, it's nothing riciculous.  You're right in liking
the 403; I love mine.  

Ray in the desert
87 409 Cutlass

On Wed, 19 Nov 1997, Greg Beaulieu wrote:

> Not a list member, reply to him directly...
> 
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
> 
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From:	BAD403TA@aol.com
> Subject: Info for my 403 olds 
> 
>   Dear Olds know it all's .
> Hi I am writing this E mail cuz i have no idea about what i can do to the 403
> .
> The 403 Olds is not in a Oldsmobile car of any kind , back in 1977-1979
> Pontiac 
> had the 403 as a option for the Trans Am , formally known as the K code motor
> . 
>   I was told the other day to check out some parts that go by the name or
> code 
> W-30, or i may have gottin it wrong, but I am sure u know what i am talking
> about .
> My car is not running so good the motor keeps bogging on me and i dont know
> why.
> I had the Carb rebuildt 3 times , up untill i screwed up the fuel bowl
> chamber in the body of the carb by stripping the thred . I know that I now
> need a carb , but that wont stop it from bogging , can u send me Info on the
> W-30 parts , and what to look out for the olds , the motor is a good motor ,
> and its not time for a rebuild or replacement motor .
>   All n all I just dont know to much about the motor . Please send me some
> info on the 6.6L 403 OLDS . 
>  Thank u very much , I better go now , bye 
> 
> Thanks again 
> BAD403TA
> R.Hastings 
> 
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 18:16:45 -0800 (PST)
From: ray costanzo <raycosta@rocketmail.com>
Subject: SUBSCRIBE

SUBSCRIBE

Ray Costanzo
Tucson, AZ





__________________________________________________________________
Sent by Yahoo! Mail. Get your free e-mail at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 21:18:37 -0800
From: Boogah Wolfe <boogah@en.com>
Subject: Re: SS wheel questions / gasket question

PSHENG@scuacc.scu.edu wrote:
> 
> I have a 72 cutlass supreme with disc brakes, and I was wondering...
> 
> 1. SS1 wheels won't fit because of the disc brakes, right?
> 2. do SS3 wheels from the later body styles (73 and up) fit the earlier
>    models? Is the backspacing the same?
> 3. what is the correct shade of silver for SSII's? my olds facts & figures
>    manual says it's "cast grey"- is that light silver like aluminum or
>    darker grey like cast iron?
> 
> and now the gasket question: I read here that you should put exhaust manifold
> gaskets on with the metal side facing the manifold.  Why is that?  I just
> installed exh. manifold gaskets on my engine (some idiot previously applied
> orange silicone to the mating surfaces) and the directions that came with the
> fel-pro gaskets said to put the metal side facing the HEAD, not the manifold.
> I heard someone before say that the metal side goes towards the manifold, but
> I followed the directions & put them on metal side facing the head.
> 
> Also... if anybody has a set of 4 SSII or SSIII rims in good condition w/
> caps and trim rings for sale at a reasonable price, please contact me at
> psheng@scuacc.scu.edu  I live in Palo Alto, CA and want to buy them from
> someone in the local area (I don't know what shipping would run on those,
> but I know I couldn't afford it!)
> 
> Paul Sheng
> 72 cutlass supreme
Paul

I have a 72 Supreme with SSI wheels that are the originals, so they do
fit. I don't the details regarding different years however.  Hope that
helps

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 21:26:12 -0800
From: Boogah Wolfe <boogah@en.com>
Subject: Literature

I am looking for a book that lists all of the available options (correct
option codes) for 1972 Cutlass Supreme/ Cutlass/ 442.  Am looking to add
some 442 parts to my Cutlass Supreme (suspension, cooling,) and want to
make certain that I am obtaining (or at least trying to) the correct
parts. I am thinking that I am going to need some sort of sales
literature.  Also, I think it would be interesting information to have. 
I dont believe the Chassis Service manual has this info.  Any help
appreciated.  Any other book advice is appreciated also.

Thanks much

Joe 
1972 Cutlass Supreme
Boogah@en.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 21:28:55 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Head Gasket/Valve Problems....

Hello once again...

For the past two months, my Delta has been bothered by a steady miss in
cyl.'s 3 and 5, and one problem has now led to another.

I had the car in the auto shop today, and hooked it up to the engine
analyzer once again, and performed a battery of tests.  The analyzer has
a "power drop" test, which shuts off one cylinder at a time, and
measures the RPM after each.

The first test showed that cyl. #3 was problematic...it only dropped 5
rpm, and the textbook average was between -35 and -106.  All other
cylinders were fine.  I tested it a second time, this time cyl. #3 was
fine, and #5 was problematic...it only dropped 11 rpm.  When I tested it
a third time, cyl. #3 was fine, but cyl. #5 was terrible!  Instead of
the engine slowing down, it sped up 19 rpm!

At first I thought it was a head gasket, but a compression test came
back fine.  I pulled the plugs, which looked a *little* lean (barely),
so they were fine, and the wires tested out fine.

The firing KV test was fairly normal, with all cyl.'s ranging between
8.8-11.0 KV.  Cyl. #5 was the lowest, which was 8.8, and the textbook
minimum was 8.9

But when I was driving home three hours later, I noticed a bit of a
'chug' when I was backing up my driveway, so I popped the hood.  The
engine wasn't shaking terribly, but I could now hear the valves singing
"Ave Maria", but before they had always been silent.  What could be
causing this?  Could I be in for a valve job?  If it was the head gasket
causing the miss, could it have finally gone V.V.K.? 
(voom-voom-kaboom!)  Since the valves were loud on both sides, could I
have lost an oil pump?

I almost forgot to mention this...when it was hooked up to the analyzer,
the car was revving between idle and 2000rpm for well over forty
minutes, and coolant started bubbling out the rad cap...was this
considered 'overheating'?  The idiot light wasn't on...

The analyzer also had a probe that replaced the oil dipstick, which
measured the temp.  The textbook average was supposed to be between
80-105 Celcius, but it was reading about 112 when I first noticed the
coolant overflowing...(for some strange reason, my overflow isn't
sending/receiving coolant...it was three inches down in the core when I
topped it up last week, but the overflow was up to max.)

Help would be *greatly* appreciated!  

S. Dave Ward

'78 Delta 88 (350 4bbl.)  => soon to be a boat anchor...
'85 Delta 88 (307 4bbl.)  => still runs fine...
'91 GMC 4x4  (305 TBI)    => runs great...(better stay that way, too!)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 21:24:42 -0500
From: jeff antonucci <antonj@erols.com>
Subject: Re: 10.50 ET 70 Cutlass?

Joe,

Tell me about the one piece fiberglass front end.  Was it hinged?  Did
it look factory with all the accessories put back on?  Would it work for
a daily driver?

Jeff Antonucci

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 21:51:54 -0500
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Retro fitting OEM A/C

Larry wrote:
> 
> Paul,
> 
>         I looked through the May issue but could not find anything that
> mentions firewall conversion plates or packages.  I'll look through some
> of my other issues for the ad.(The May issue is the oldest that I
> have)   If I find anything I'll let you know.
> 
>                                                 Larry

Darn...  You know, I didn't believe that doctor when he told me I was
losing my mind.  Maybe he was right!  Let's see...  We went on our
Chapter trip May 4-5, 1996.  I was sure I read that ad while I was on
this trip and I thought the May issue had just arrived.  Maybe it was
April, which you don't have -- what help are you? :)

Thanks for trying anyway.  If you happen to run across it, please let us
know.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

Why do they sterilize the needles for lethal injections?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 22:38:43 -0500 (EST)
From: Oldsnut@aol.com
Subject: Re: 10.50 ET 70 Cutlass?

In a message dated 97-11-19 10:59:02 EST, you write:

<< My 455 dyno'd at 523 hp at 5350 RPM. my car weighs 3445lbs with me in it
 and 8 gals. of fuel.
 
 In order to get 10.5 second quarter mile passes takes a tremendous amount
 of power and not a lot of weight.  I know that my car will never gat into
 that range!  I will be very happy if I can get into high 11,s! >>

Are you running nitrous?  What gear ratio?  Cam?  Heads?  Induction?
 Exhaust?
My friend's 5.0 weighs 3400 too.  I'm figuring if a tiny 302 can do it, a
big-block Olds can.
At what altitude is your track.  I'm 1 hr away from Houston Raceway Park,
which is at sea level.

Paul Pate
Mechanical Design Engineer
Port Neches, Texas
70 Cutlass S (350-4V, TH-350, 12-bolt 3.08)
84 Camaro (305-4V, TH-700, 10-bolt 3.08)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 22:43:55 -0500
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Literature

Boogah Wolfe wrote:
> 
> I am looking for a book that lists all of the available options (correct
> option codes) for 1972 Cutlass Supreme/ Cutlass/ 442.  Am looking to add
> some 442 parts to my Cutlass Supreme (suspension, cooling,) and want to
> make certain that I am obtaining (or at least trying to) the correct
> parts.

From the '72 Product Selling Features Album:

Although the 4-4-2 models have been removed from the 1972 model lineup,
any Cutlass or Cutlass S Coupe, or Cutlass Supreme Convertible can look
or act a sporty and the 4-4-2 ever did.  And there are three distinctive
optional packages to do the job.

The first available package is the 4-4-2 Appearance and Handling Package
(W29).  This package is available with any engine, and comes equipped
with the Hursh Shifter, special hood, body-side and deck-lid striping,
4-4-2 radiator grilles, emblems and black hood louvers.  It also
includes heavy-duty Rallye Suspension Package (FE2), which gives it the
firm ride a buyer would expect of a car that looks like this.

Rallye Suspension Package (FE2)
- - Heavy-Duty Front and Rear Springs
- - Heavy-Duty Front and Rear Stabilizer Bars
- - Heavy-Duty Front and Rear Shock Absorbers
- - Heavy-Duty Rear-Suspension Control Arms
- - 14 x 7" Wheels

The Rallye Suspension Package is a duplicate of the former well-proven
4-4-2 suspension system.  It includes the same heavy-duty components,
which give these cars similar performance characteristics.

Availability: Available for Cutlass and Cutlass S Coupes and Cutlass
Supreme Convertible.  May be used with Super Stock Wheels (N66, N67, or
P05).  Not available with Firm-Ride Shock Absorbers (FG2), Superlift
Rear Shock Absorbers (G66), Heavy-Duty Suspension, (F41), or Heavy-Duty
Wheels (N99)

From the '72 "SPECS" book:

W29 4-4-2 Appearance and Handling Package.  Includes Body-side and
Deck-lid striping.  4-4-2 Radiator Grille, Black Hood Louvers and Grille
and Deck-lid numerals, plus options FE2 (Rallye Suspension Package), and
Y73 (Hood Paint Stripe Decal).  W39 (Hurst Shifter, 3-Speed Floor,
Performance) included with Standard Synchromesh Transmission.  Available
with any engine.  Required with W30 (Performance Package).  N.A. with
B84 (Protective Side Moldings with Black Vinyl Insert), or Y70
(Body-Side Paint Stripe), and J50 (Pedal-Ease Power Brakes) with L75
(Rocket 455 V-8 Engine with 4-bbl. carburetor).
With W39.........$70.00
Without W39......$29.00

Both of these pieces of literature offer a lot of information that won't
be found in the standard sales catalog, but they can both be expensive
to obtain.  '72 Dealer Albums can be hard to find, because Olds told
it's dealer to throw the pages away and re-use the binder for their '73
information.

> I am thinking that I am going to need some sort of sales
> literature.  Also, I think it would be interesting information to have.
> I dont believe the Chassis Service manual has this info.  Any help
> appreciated.  Any other book advice is appreciated also.

Al Sandy from New Jersey is the Oldsmobile literature Guru, but he can
be expensive.  John Wimble of Richmond, Va has the '72 Prestige sales
brochure (item #13506 on list #236) for $6 plus postage.  Contact him
at: 1407 Stoneycreek Drive, Richmond VA  23233-4621.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

Why do they sterilize the needles for lethal injections?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 22:43:53 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: 455 in IH truck

Hey, folks, this guy is assembling an older IH truck with 455 Olds power from a
'70 98 or 88. Don't think he's on the list. He's at the end of the assembly and
a bit nervous about the whole thing coming together. Any words of encouragement
you may offer, please send right to him at: ryebread@cvn.net

I have seen photos, looks real nice as a larger truck- dual rear wheels. He's
in MD or somewhere in the NE there.
- -RS-

Forwarded message:
> From ryebread@cvn.net Wed Nov 19 21:27:35 1997
> From: ryebread@cvn.net (ryebread)
> Subject: Re: Progress
> Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 21:30:33 -0500
>
> Dear Chris,
>
> Still working on the truck. After the last time I wrote, we have been
> taking care of details, and the devil's in the details. Lots of little
> things. Kerm wants to "do it right". I do too, but I don't have the money
> enough to spend like Kerm wants to do it, so I am compromising by trying to
> do as much as I can at times when I can.
>
> The wiring is complete, and the dash is all done with new gauges
> (Autometers). We tapped a new 3/8 line to the tank, with a return line, and
> put a spedo gear on the trans-- seems the 1970 Oldsmobiles had the speedo
> cable going to the wheel and the trans had no speedo gear on the shaft.
>
> We are finishing up the plumbing on the vacuum lines for the two speed and
> the power brakes. That, plus the fan shroud, and we should be putting it
> all back together. I decided to hold back on sending any pictures until it
> was done, which should be by Saturday.
>
> Is driving it steady for several hours a good way to break in the engine? I
> am thinking of driving it up to Massachusetts this Thanksgiving.
>
> I may be a little optimistic, as I haven't seen it move at all yet.
>
> Also, how long does it usually take for the lifters to quiet down-- I
> didn't have it going for very long when I fired it the first time-- only a
> minute or so-- but they were noisy the whole time.
> John

- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 22:46:32 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: missing person 69 Conv

It has happened again!

Guy called to inquire about the 69 Convertible parts car/ project cars I have.
Told him I'd discuss it with the brother, get back to him... LOST his name/
number note! I did not even attempt to commit it to memory. One day it was in
the kitchen, the next day it's gone.

Anyone on the list match that description? I dunno where else he would have
gotten the info that I have a pair of 69 conv's for sale.

I just HATE when this happens.

- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 00:04:37 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: '74 Toro Airbags

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Bob Brandys <oehcs@flash.net>
Reply-To: oehcs@flash.net
Subject: Info and parts for 74-76 air bags car

Torandos came with air cushions or air bags in74-76.  I am looking for
parts and info on these and other oldsmobiles with these air bags.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 23:05:19 -0500
From: Aaron D Eoff <sheep542@mindspring.com>
Subject: That putt..putt.. feeling??

Hellooo all,

I would like some help...
 My 77 Olds Cutlass is really feelin sluggish lately. It sort of feels like
something is holding the car back. During acceleration on highways it just
doesn't feel right. The engine is not straining itself or anything like
that. Just to see if i could isolate the problem at highway speed i come up
off the accelerator and carefully watch the speedo and listen to the car and
it seems its slowing down prematurely, not abruptly but enough to feel that
somethings wrong. Could this indicate a problem with the trans?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 23:10:33 -0500
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: That putt..putt.. feeling??

At 11:05 PM 11/19/97 -0500, you wrote:
        Sounds like the trans or a timing chain going bad.

Jim Chermack

>Hellooo all,
>
>I would like some help...
> My 77 Olds Cutlass is really feelin sluggish lately. It sort of feels like
>something is holding the car back. During acceleration on highways it just
>doesn't feel right. The engine is not straining itself or anything like
>that. Just to see if i could isolate the problem at highway speed i come up
>off the accelerator and carefully watch the speedo and listen to the car and
>it seems its slowing down prematurely, not abruptly but enough to feel that
>somethings wrong. Could this indicate a problem with the trans?
>
>Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 20:17:47 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: [Non-Olds] but VERY disturbing!

Sounds like they're just making *real* sure no one would identify the
person - but then they've got to do something with the head and hands (oh
yukkkkk - I guess they could stash it in an old Olds in a junkyard, then
after 2 weeks it'd surely be crushed )  Olds content.

Please be careful, we worry about the cars enough we hate to have to start
worrying about owners too (especially Olds ones).


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser (twin hauler)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 23:20:04 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: That putt..putt.. feeling??

Aaron D Eoff wrote:

>>>Just to see if i could isolate the problem at highway speed i come up
>>>off the accelerator and carefully watch the speedo and listen to the car and
>>>it seems its slowing down prematurely, not abruptly but enough to feel that
>>>somethings wrong. Could this indicate a problem with the trans?

I'm not trying to sound sarcastic, but are you sure that the tranny is
in high gear?  It's possible that high gear isn't engaging properly,
even though the selector is in "D".

Yes, it *could* be a tranny problem, but let's not think of the worst
case scenario right yet...

The first thing I'd do is check out your brakes (for excess drag),
especially your parking brake...it's common that they seize on after
years of inoperation.  If your brakes check out fine, try the
bearings...if they're noisy at all, replace them.  What pressure are
your tires at?  They harder they are, the less resistance there is...so
if you're running 20psi all the way around, it'll be a ball and chain on
rolling resistance.  Is your front-end in good alignment?

It could in fact be a tranny problem, but I'd check everything out
first.  I'm not the most experienced with transmissions, but it's
possible that something is beginning to seize up, or a bearing is past
it's best.  Is there a whine at all?  (Check your rear-end oil, too...)

S. Dave Ward

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 16:53:04 -0600
From: Daniel Starnes <starnesd@ilcc.cc.ia.us>
Subject: part infermation

TO WHOM IT MAY COCERN I HAVE A 1980 OLDS CUTLASS. I PRUCHASCED
    THIS VECH. TO RESTORE IT . IN THE PROCESSE SOMEONE STOLL MY T-TOPS.
    IF ANY ONE HAS INFO. ON WHO TO CONTAC FOR NEW ONES PLEASE E-MAIL
    ME ALSO LOOKING FOR A GOOD FRONT CLIP. 

					THANK YOU
					STARNESD@ILCC.CC.IA.US

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 23:45:12 -0500 (EST)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: Lexus bashing 

still has no style, id take a 2dr conv 56 olds super 88 any day, over ANY
lexus {deluxe toyota mercedes wannabe}    

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 22:48:34 -0600 (CST)
From: Rich Meyers <richbmeyers@cctr.umkc.edu>
Subject: G-body wheels

I used to have an '84 CS that had solid chrome five hole wheels, not the
ones with chrome trim rings. I was wondering if these wheels have a certain
designation and if they are still available.  I'm sure someone out there has
some sitting around. I was going to put new aluminum wheels on my new '84
but I think I'd rather put on Olds wheels. I currently have the funky wire
hubcaps. Thanks. Oldsmobile Forever!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 21:00:33 -0800 (PST)
From: blue moon <oldsmobile_service_department@yahoo.com>
Subject: installing a calais instrument in a supreme (instruction for an idiot please)

Hey Olds Freaks and Enthusiasts,

I've got a request... I've got an '83 Cutlass Supreme, and I've also
got a rallye guage cluster out of a Cutlass Calais, and would like to
install it in my car... I have just installed it and _NOTHING_ works. 
Wiring _MUST_ be different between the two.  I was hoping that if
anyone has done this before, or has instructions for doing this if
they would get back to be (by private e-mail would be great) with
help.  Please send the idiot's version... please :-)

Thanks Much,
"With a torch and a hammer, anthing's possible!"
Jason Belt,
moon_00_eyes@rocketmail.com
oldsmobile_service_department@yahoo.com
nod_a_rockin@yahoo.com
J2Rocket@hotmail.com





__________________________________________________________________
Sent by Yahoo! Mail. Get your free e-mail at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 21:03:48 -0800
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: Head Gasket/Valve Problems....

My guess would be valve problems.  Perhaps a lobe on the camshaft is just
about wiped on cyls 3 and/or 5, or maybe a bad lifter or two.  Maybe take
off the valve cover on that side and see if the rocker arms are moving much.

A longshot, but what about an EGR problem?  The EGR valve is right there
above cylinders 3 and 5.  Pulling the vacuum hose off the back of the EGR
valve temporarily might diagnose a problem, but the valve could still be
leaking even with the hose off.

Tom Lentz
tlentz@ior.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 22:27:29 -0800 (PST)
From: Jack Karamanos <jalkara@whidbey.net>
Subject: Re: phantom 57

in my just recieved january 98 pop. hot rod magazine, there is a car i
would be interested in knowing more about. on page 82 an article on
lansing starts.  on page 83 there is a picture of a modified 57.  did any
of you lansing goers see or remember where it is from, or owner or
anything?
thanks 
47rocket98

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #963
********************************

