To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #936


oldsmobile-digest       Monday, November 3 1997       Volume 01 : Number 936



Dash Lights and Clock
Re: Electrical queries
Re: Dash Lights and Clock
Re: Halloween Parade duty
Olds Numbers
Re: nonolds help
Re: 1966 Delta 88
Re: UNBOUNCE: Big Oldsmobiles
Re: Holley Carb.
Re: Vista vs. Custom Cruiser
Re: Electrical queries
Power_Windows
FAQ 4.0 up on my site... finally
Re: australian musle cars?
Re: 489 HP 307?
RE: Losing My Hearing, or, The Radio Is Getting Weak.
Re: 489 HP 307?
Re: bolt pattern
Re: Mobil One
winterize
Re: winterize
Re: winterize
Re: Edelbrock heads--SEMA
Re: bolt pattern
Thermostat Bypass Hose Tip
Center Link Replacement???
glass hoods
Re: '66 Toro parts
Re: 250 mph Omega
Hubcaps
Re: 489 HP 307?
Re: 489 HP 307?
Re: Center Link Replacement???
Re: Thermostat Bypass Hose Tip
I thought 307Y was under control! ;-)
(no subject)
Re: Edelbrock heads--SEMA
More Hubcaps
Re: 489 HP 307?
Muscle Car Calendar 1972 Hurst Olds
Re: More Hubcaps
Re: New Olds fan needs help
Re: 200-4R depression
Re: Which Tranny Swaps?
Heater
Re: Hubcaps
Re: More Hubcaps
Re: Heater
Re: 200-4R depression
Re: New Olds fan needs help
Re: Power Seat Question
Sams PhotoFact ?
Re: oops
Re: Heater
Dash Lights and Clock
Toro obtained
Re: Heater
Re: Heater
Weird block ª's
Re: extrusion honing
Re: 58 Roadmaster
Re: Thermostat Bypass Hose Tip

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 97 0:14:40 EST
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Dash Lights and Clock

   Many thanks to Andrew Green for his accurate explanations of the basic
electricals behind the dash gauges of my '69 4-4-2.  The left half of the
gauge lights didn't work from the middle of the speedometer (center gauge)
and all the lamps in the left gauge which ended up being one bad bulb and
two broken male pins on the mylar like printed circuit on the left most
gauge (fuel).  The main culprit was the male pins that the plug fits onto
are soldered to the very flexible mylar type printed circuit. It wouldn't
take much of a yank or pull on the wire harness to break the pins from the
circuit. Anyway it's now fixed....done.  Now that I'm in there I figure that
since this fat boy got himself snaked up under the dash that I might as well
try to fix the clock (far right gauge). Lights worked fine in it but it was
stuck at 2:15.
  Thanks here to Greg B. for his great overview on fixing the clock.
Unfortunately the WD40 wouldn't work here. I removed the clock from the dash
and dissasembled it to find out that the return or ground contact for the
relay had broken off from the brass rewind disk. You'd have to have been
there to know what I'm talking about here but I know that if I had four
hands I could fix it.  Got to get ahold of my buddy 'the welder god' and we
can fix 'er.  I should really send it out to get quartzed, but I'd rather
fix it the way it was originally.....just for the hell of it.

   Glenn
   '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 97 0:38:01 EST
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: Electrical queries

At 11:59 PM 11/2/97 -0500, you wrote:
>I was wondering if the person who was having trouble with their dash
>lights ever got them to work. I just replaced mine and they are working
>great. Also, would it be possible for someone to post the electrical
>diagram for a '68 cutlass on the web? I can't find a manual and my stereo
>must be wired completely wrong. It works when the key is in aux position,
>but whenever the engine is fired-up it makes a high-pitched squeal. Weird.
>I just got a new speaker for the front and it would be nice if I could get
>the stereo to work before I install it. Thanks.


  Pat,  Just replied back to the list pertaining to dash lights.  Are you
using resister type spark plugs.  If not, you can get a high pitched
whisle/squeal amplified through the speakers.  By the way, what ohm speaker
did you install?

  Glenn
  '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 00:52:17 -0500 (EST)
From: Patrick Rose <prose@email.unc.edu>
Subject: Re: Dash Lights and Clock

Glenn, I'm glad to hear you got the dash lights working. I tried to fix
the clock in a '72 Cutlass a couple of years ago. Man, it's incredible how
they used to do things before quartz! I wish you luck. I had to buy
magnet wire and re-coil the electro-magnet about fifty-million times.
Plastic pieces inside of the clock had melted, too, so I wasn't sure how
it was supposed to work. I could get it to work in the house but something
would always go wrong when it got into the car. I've never worked with
anything so fragile! If you get it to work you have my congratulations. As
far as my stereo, I'm not sure what kind of spark plugs are in the car. I
just got it about a month ago and I just assumed it was a wiring problem.
How do I check them to see if they are the right kind? I'm going to put in
an 8 ohm Radio Shack 4x10 speaker in the front. It's cheap, but I'm sure
it will sound better than the torn one that's in there now. Thanks for
your help.

Pat

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 01:11:06 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: Halloween Parade duty

>>>all of the 5.0s are blowing away 95% of the Olds built since '72

Don't you mean NINE-POINT-FIVE PERCENT?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 Nov 1997 22:04:51 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Olds Numbers

When I rejoined the local chapter after a 15 year sabatical, they
reinstated my original number I got in 1978 - ª128.  I tried to get Peggy
to do that but they'd reissued my orig. OCA number.  Drat.


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser (twin hauler)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 Nov 1997 22:00:52 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: nonolds help

 if anyone knows of a link to a page for this
>sort of search please share it with the group and me. Sorry for the
>non-Olds content but you guys are always there to help.

Look at the links page off of my page - there's a whole page of car club
listings.


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser (twin hauler)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 Nov 1997 21:51:23 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: 1966 Delta 88

Just looked this up for '67 - the low budget 425 w/ 2 bbl was rated at 310
HP & I'm sure ran at least 10:1 compression (guessing but by the HP rating
I'm sure thats close), while the 4 bbl option(s) came in at 365 & 375 HP -
all are to run on *premium* fuel so I'd say 10:1 or 10:25 compression is
present.


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser (twin hauler)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 Nov 1997 22:08:58 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Big Oldsmobiles

>the bigger the better (snip)

Typical guy!

Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser (twin hauler)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 00:35:06 -0700 (MST)
From: bhorn@tnc.com (Beverley Horn)
Subject: Re: Holley Carb.

>In a message dated 97-10-31 00:49:19 EST, you write:
>
><< (BTW: it's a 650 Double Pumper, not just a 650). >>
>
>thats the only kind of 650 Holley makes
>
Oh, well I guess I am a little stupid. Shows how much I know about Holley
Carbs. Question: About how much horsepower would it add to a 1970 Rocket 350?

Shayne Horn
1970 Rallye350
1985 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 08:06:24 -0800
From: camenz@internet-australia.com (camenz)
Subject: Re: Vista vs. Custom Cruiser

Greg Pruett wrote:
>
> camenz wrote:
> >
> > I was just after some info about '73 Olds Custom Cruisers so if you
> > anything about them, let me know. What's the difference between a Custom
> > Cruiser and a Vista Cruiser??
>
> The Vista Cruiser was based on the midsize cutlass, the Custom Cruser
> was based on one of the bigger cars.  (88 or 98, I'm not sure)  It's a
> cutlass station wagon with a large sunroof (It's about 4.5 feet by 12
> inches, and it doesn't open.) that is mounted over the *rear* seats.
> The rear windows are extra large and wrap into the roof of the car.
> It's named for the windows, Vista(as in view) Cruiser.  It's much
> smaller than a Custom Cruiser, it's only about 18.5 feet long and holds
> 8 passengers.  (I think the Custom Cruiser is about 21 feet and 9
> passengers.) It's amazing how a Vista Cruiser really looks like a tank
> untill you park it next to a Custom Cruiser, then it looks downright
> puny. :)    I think the first year for the Vista Cruiser was 1964, the
> last year for the sunroof and window treatment was 1972, and the last
> year for the model line was circa 1977.  The sunroof really set the
> wagon off and added a lot of character.  It just wasn't the same after
> 1972 when they had just the plain 'ol flat roof.  I'm not sure what
> motors could be had with them in the early years, but I think they were
> standard with a V-8 from 1966-1972, either 350 or 330 depending on the
> year, and sometime after `66 there was a 400 option and somewhere around
> 1970 there was a 455 option.
>
> They're beautiful cars, better looking than the Custom Cruiser IMHO.  In
> fact I'd go so far as to say you won't find a better looking station
> wagon from that era.  The only station wagons I can think of that look
> better are the old "woodys" from the prewar days.  They're also exellent
> road cars, as were most Oldmobiles of that era.  I can personally attest
> that a stock Vista Cruiser is capable of being comfortably driven at
> speeds well in exess of 100mph.   (Well, I was comfortable.  Someone
> with a higher IQ may not be. :)
>
> If you want to see a picture, Lisa Madsen has one of her Vista Cruiser
> posted at http://www.442.com/lisa.html
>
> If you'd like to see a side view of one let me know and I'll email you a
> snapshot of mine.  The picture is about a 30K attatchment.
>
> Greg Pruett
> 72 Vista Cruiser
> 67 Cutlass Supreme
> 80 Cutlass Calais

Thanks for the response mate! I was curious about the difference between
the two but you summed it up pretty well. 21 feet is pretty big!!!
Sounds like my type of wagon!!! I love American cars so much, they have
been my passion since I was 13. We pay huge amounts of cash for them out
here because they are very desirable and stunning vehicles. The fact
that there is so few around also pushes the prices up. Still, there are
examples out here from every American manufacturer so between them and
our own muscle cars, we have the best of both worlds!!

Thanks again Greg for you help. Hope I can return the favour some day.

Glen

1973 Buick Electra Limited 455
1958 Buick Roadmaster 364

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 04:47:24 -0500 (EST)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: Electrical queries

In a message dated 97-11-03 00:02:38 EST, you write:

<<  just got a new speaker for the front and it would be nice if I could get
 the stereo to work before I install it. Thanks.

 Pat
  >>
hey pat, do you have an amp?? even if u do or dont, check all yr grounds, you
might have one to many, or not a good one.
Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 02:16:00 pst
From: "Dal Allan" <Dal_Allan@mcimail.com>
Subject: Power_Windows

Our weekend weather has been unbelievable, brilliant sunshine and temps up
in the low 80's so it was ideal for travelling with the top down. Even so,
yesterday morning did not get off to a good start.

The right rear power window on my 72 A-body works fine from the passenger's
seat but has been intermittent on the driver's door. The trick has been to
push in hard on the button while pressing up or down as the case may be.
When I pushed in yesterday, there was a sizzle and smoke started to pour
from the switch.

Normally those switches are hard to get out, but not this time! I had it
outta the door panel in nothing flat.

The smoke stopped but the acrid smell lingered as I looked at the melted hot
line. Apparently the vibration over the years had worn away the insulation
and the time was right when I pushed for it to make 'permanent' contact -
the hot wire had welded itself to the door shell!

The PS/PT/PW (Power Seat, Power Top and Power Windows) were dead but
everything else worked, so took the car out anyway. Today I went to the
junkyard and liberated some switches and their connectors. I replaced the
power windows switch connector by using butt connectors to splice into the
door cables.

The hot wire under the dash was hanging free with a spade lug hanging out
the end of the connector. There has obviously been a problem with the hot
line some time in the past because the connector was a female disconnect,
not a GM connector. After running a continuity test to check that all was
well to the power window switch, I went hunting underneath for where the
line had been plugged in.

Mystery!

I could find no trace anywhere that the power line had been plugged into
anything. All the spades in the fuse block already had some other wire on
them so it had not been plugged in there.

It was time to drag out the Service Manual which said a number of things
which do not fit my situation.

Wiring Diagram:
     A 12V line from the ignition and and power from the circuit breaker
     goes up to a junction block and over to a relay. Power from the relay
     is distributed to the power accessories.
Body Service Manual:
    "A junction block located on the reinforcement at the left shroud is
     used to supply current to power equipment circuits. Current is supplied
     to the junction block from the circuit breaker, and the PW harness
     plugs into the junction block.
     The relay is located on the left side shroud panel."

Reality:  PS/PT/PW have always worked without the ignition.
          No sign of a relay on the left shroud side panel.
          No sign of a junction block (have not removed side panel yet).
          There is a 3-way splitter on the 12 AWG power line, with two lines
          running off, one is presumably to the PS/PT the other to the PW.

I have made everything operational temporarily by putting a splitter on the
ignition spade in the fuse block and installing a 30A fuse in the power line
to the PS/PT/PW. I'll feel a lot happier when the wiring is back to what it
should be.

Questions:

 1)  Does anybody have a clue on why the fuse and/or relay in the line did
     not blow when the line shorted out? It got hot enough to melt whatever
     was holding the spade that the disconnect was on.

 2)  Where is this relay located under the dash? I cannot see it despite
     what the service manual says.

 3) Is this junction block under the side panel cover?

 4) How do you test a circuit breaker to find out if it is still working?

Dal

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 05:34:01 -0800 (PST)
From: <the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com>
Subject: FAQ 4.0 up on my site... finally

Well, per normal, I am behind everyone else... but have finally gotten
the FAQ version 4.0 up on my site as I had said I would.  You can find
an html version of the FAQ at
http://nero.dyn.ml.org/~da_bomb/oldsfaq/oldsfaq4.htm
and a copy of the whole thing "zipped" at
http://nero.dyn.ml.org/~da_bomb/oldsfaq/zip/oldsfaq4.zip
I was getting very good connection times from this earlier, so
hopefully I won't have any more of the problems I was having (the guy
who runs this thing was having trouble out of _his_ service provider.

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU-Tn.Edu
the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com





_____________________________________________________________________
Sent by RocketMail. Get your free e-mail at http://www.rocketmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 09:19:59 -0500
From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Subject: Re: australian musle cars?

And let us not forget that car that Mel Gibson drove in the
post-apocalyptic classic "The Road Warriors".  I *think* is was
a GM product -- is Vauxhall a popular marque Down Under, Glen? --
and it had a supercharged V8.  Looked real mean.  In the movie,
one of the characters compliments the car to Mad Max, saying something
about how it was "the last of the..." something-or-others.  It
may have been a make unique to Australia.  Hopefully not unique
to the movie...



Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 08:38:43 -0600
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: 489 HP 307?

I made nearly 550 hp with my Rocket 350 when I installed the roller cam
and full floating pistons from my 307 into the 350.  The secret is in
the side clearance of the pistons.  There is virtually NO friction!
This motor cranks over SOOOO easy!!  I expect to run high 9's when I get
it out on the track!

One other mod that really helps get these G-Body's going, get a rear
axle from a 79-85 Toro/Eldo/Riviera.  They really help in the gas
mileage, I found I could get moving faster with the special gearing the
Toro's have.  I can't wait to try it out at Bonneville, the 2.14's and
the 307 "Y" got me 225mph in a stone stock engine, that was the 2 way
average.  So when I try the Toro axle I will know I will get to 300!!!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 10:19:07 -0500
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: RE: Losing My Hearing, or, The Radio Is Getting Weak.

On Friday, October 31, 1997 11:15 PM, padavano.joe
[SMTP:padavano.joe@Orbital.COM] wrote:
>      Radio Shack can provide you with a cross
>      reference part from the number on the original - of course,
they'll
>      also be out of it.
>
>
>

The output transistors for this radio are DS-501 MFGR Part ª. The
replacement numbers are GE-4, International Rectifier TR-01, Motorola
HEP233, RCA SK3012, Sylvania ECG 105.

I have found the DS-501, but they are expensive, $25 to $30 when you
find them. I have not had any luck finding the replacements. Radio Shack
was no help, not all of their stores even have the cross-reference book.
A good source is a repair shop that has been around a long time. They
may still have the DS-501 or one of the replacements. I brought a radio
at a flee-market just for the transistor's. It is important to use the
10 ohm speakers with these radios.

The radio and the stereo adapter are separate as was noted. The radio
has one amp and the adapter as the other amp. I dont think both amps
would go out at once, but they could. The tape player cuts off the radio
and uses its own amps and the same speakers as the radio  when you put a
tape in, so I think they are OK. It could be the volume control, or one
of the "IF" transistors but I am only guessing here. Dave, I have the
Sams PhotoFact set for this radio, if you need more information let me
know.


Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the..... Past

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 10:01:12 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: 489 HP 307?

 I don't know the truth to any of this high horsepower.  I do know that the
truth about the reputation of this list is that we are all ladies and
gentlemen.  Derision of others is uncalled for.

Bill Culp
Decatur, Alabama




>In a message dated 97-11-02 20:21:10 EST, you write:
>
><< Cnvrtbl442@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > Only if your drinking as much as Olds307 was when he wrote this......
>
> Is all this really necessary?  Nobody here knows this guy...who are we to
> tell him that he can't get 489 hp out of a natrually-aspirated 307?  Some
> mechanics <snip> magic <snip>.  Sure, <snip> a tall-tale; sure it is
pretty
> unbelievable <snip>fairy tale,<snip>
> If we knew that he was lying, fine,<snip>500 horse 307 V8.  I think that
we
>need to <snip> accept that it might just be possible that someone could eek
>out
> that kind of power.  Just my $0.02...
> _____________________________ >>
>
>GET REAL..............:-0.......ITS NOT ONLY NECESSARY, ITS OVERDUE
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 10:53:36 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: bolt pattern

>I was wondering if the wheel bolt pattern on a '70 98 is the same as on a
'68 cutlass?

No; the 98 used the 5 on 5" bolt pattern; the Cutlass used a smaller 5 on 4
3/4" bolt pattern.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 11:06:46 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Mobil One

>how bout mobil 1??, i have that now in my 94 nissan se-v6 king cab, i plan on
>using it in my 86 salon when i get it on the road...

Unless all the gaskets on that '86 are brand new, I'd be hesistant;
synthetic oil will cause any existing oil leaks to get worse, and reveal
new places that your engine could leak. I found this out myself, when I put
Mobil 1 in my freshly-rebuilt 403 after a year of driving it. It found new
leaks around the new valve-cover gaskets that were not tightened down
enough. I'm still undecided about it's value, though I'll give it the
winter to show me that it's easier to start the car in the cold, as it
reportedly is.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 Nov 1997 21:52:05 -0800
From: steven@purplemonkey.com (Steven Saraceno)
Subject: winterize

OK, its my first winter with my 70 442 convertible.  Anything special I
should do to store it?  I have heard to put it up on blocks, keep the
top up, keep the top down, start it once a month and let it run for a
half hour and don't worry about it, fill the engine with an extra two
quarts of oil, disconnect the battery.  ANy suggestions would be
appreciated.

Steven
70 442 convertible
93 SHO MTX (142 mph but only 220 hp - no nitrous)
94 SHO ATX

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 11:12:30 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: winterize

Are you in a colder climate? Like, below 0 temps? Double check
antifreeze temperature level, wouldn't hurt to put a can of heet in
the gas tank to prevent gas to turning into varnish, and if you
havn't started it in a while when its cold, might just want to invest
in a small heater and or inline engine heater to help the circulation
so wont have a hard start with no fluids.


> OK, its my first winter with my 70 442 convertible.  Anything special I
> should do to store it?  I have heard to put it up on blocks, keep the
> top up, keep the top down, start it once a month and let it run for a
> half hour and don't worry about it, fill the engine with an extra two
> quarts of oil, disconnect the battery.  ANy suggestions would be
> appreciated.
>
> Steven
> 70 442 convertible
> 93 SHO MTX (142 mph but only 220 hp - no nitrous)
> 94 SHO ATX
>

- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"The needs of the many outway the needs of the few, or the one."

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 11:13:35 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: winterize

P.S. I live in Illinois, not a stranger to cracked engine blocks with
cold weather fluid neglagence, better safe than sorry.


> OK, its my first winter with my 70 442 convertible.  Anything special I
> should do to store it?  I have heard to put it up on blocks, keep the
> top up, keep the top down, start it once a month and let it run for a
> half hour and don't worry about it, fill the engine with an extra two
> quarts of oil, disconnect the battery.  ANy suggestions would be
> appreciated.
>
> Steven
> 70 442 convertible
> 93 SHO MTX (142 mph but only 220 hp - no nitrous)
> 94 SHO ATX
>

- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"The needs of the many outway the needs of the few, or the one."

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 09:25:35 -0800
From: Erik Nowacki <enowacki@titan.com>
Subject: Re: Edelbrock heads--SEMA

At 12:01 AM 11/3/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Hey,
>
>Anyone headed to Vegas to the SEMA show?  As I recall, this was supposed to
>be the big intro of the BB Olds aluminum heads.....not sure if they're
>announcing availability, or if it's more of a "look, we've made a prototype,
>we might make more someday" kind of thing.
>
I leave at 5AM tomorrow (tuesday) for Vegas and SEMA.  The Edelbrock booth
is usually a busy place, but I'll look long and hard for those aluminum
heads and other olds related products.

I will be back in the office on Friday, hopefully I will have time to give
you all an update.

Erik Nowacki
San Diego
72 Vista Cruiser

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 11:21:31 -0700
From: Dustin Cross <livnrt@mssl.uswest.net>
Subject: Re: bolt pattern

shucks, knew it was too good to be true   almost had disc brakes for my
wagon

> >I was wondering if the wheel bolt pattern on a '70 98 is the same as on a
> '68 cutlass?
>
> No; the 98 used the 5 on 5" bolt pattern; the Cutlass used a smaller 5 on 4
> 3/4" bolt pattern.
> __________________________________________________________
> Bob Barry            MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
>
> 1969 Toronado            455/TH425
>      See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
> 1970 Cutlass Supreme SX  455/TH400
> 1978 Electra Limited     409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 14:31:15 -0500 (EST)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: Thermostat Bypass Hose Tip

If you are looking for a molded bypass hose use NAPA 7388,,it works with
a little massaging .. Napa's listing for an AMC-Javelin 40l c.i.

Al Varhus
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.infinet.com/~avar



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 97 10:40:15 PST8
From: hpnaepflin@CCGATE.HAC.COM
Subject: Center Link Replacement???

In the spirit of the recent talk about 160 mph 307Ys, I figured, that for 
safety
sake, I ought to replace the center link on my 350 powered '70 Cutlass before I
make an attempt at the Land speed record.  I figured I ought to be able to do 
it
at about 3 AM on a straight section of the 405 (San Diego Freeway).  I'll keep
you guys posted.

Anyway, I noticed that the knuckle which attaches the centerlink to my steering
arm (pitman arm?) has a bit of play in it.  None of the other knuckles seeme to
have much play,  so I head off down to the autoparts store to pick up a center
link (TRW), $57 (US).  After removing the 4 cotter pins and nuts, I start
whaling away at the joints with a hammer and pickle fork.  The two inner tie
rods poped right out when I smacked the end of the bolt with the hammer
directly.  The steering arm and idler arm joints have the bolts pointing up at
the engine compartment so I jammed the pickle fork into the joint(s) and 
started
whaling away.  It didn't happen.  after a half hour of banging away, the seals
on the joits were trashed but the joint refused to budge.  I reassembled
everything and called it quits.

What am I doing wrong?

The pickle fork doesn't seem to be taking a "bite" into the joint.

The goal is to wedge the tapered bolt out by jamming the fork between the
centerlink and the idler arm, causing the tapered bolt on the centerlink 
knuckle
to pop out of the taperd hole in the idler arm, right?

I'm using a regular hardware store hammer.  Do I need a bigger one?

I went to two autoparts stores looking for another tool.  Both places said a
pickle fork should do the job.  The ones they had seemed identical in size and
shape to the one I have?

Is all this banging away on my steering box arm going to damage my steering 
box?


hans

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 15:15:15 -0500
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: glass hoods

Olds Folks,
I just talked to ASC products in SE PA about their glass 70-72 hoods. I
was going to request a tour and inspection off their product. They said
they would
be glad to once they rebuild from a complete loss fire !!!!!!!! Anyone
looking
for hoods from them will have to wait until the spring.



The General

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 13:11:45 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: '66 Toro parts

> When you return from your deserted island (mental) vacation......

That could be a while... :)



> happen to have that elusive driver side standard mirror on your Toro
> you
> just got?
Yup, and it's still got your name on it, too ;)  I think it'll actually
work, but it is pretty sticky.  I wanted to pull a bunch of that stuff
off this weekend, but just didn't have the time there.  Clock too,
right?  Still needing the pass front wheel well moulding?  I just as
well let that go, it'll be rusted to nothing ~looooong~ before I get
around to needing it!

 Travis Adams said there is a
> junkyard up in your neck of the woods with a '66 Toro in it.  If you
> get up there - could you keep me in mind?
Definately.  Haven't checked out the local yard (even yet!) so I'm not
sure where it is, but if I see it, I'll definately take note of what's
there.

That way I won't have to build
> coconut
> satellites and laser your cars one by one till you remember I need the
> bloody mirror :-)

My newly formed lot will probably show up on satellite images.  (If any
actually bother scanning ~anything~ in Montana!) If I actually get a
chance to clean up their ~parking lot~ (snicker snicker!) I'll have to
repark them in the shape of a Rocket emblem so it shows up ~right~ to
the satellites!  (That way you'll know where to aim!)

How much is holding those mirrors on?  Are they time consuming to pull?
(without lasers!)

Charley Buehner

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 13:17:00 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: 250 mph Omega

Edward J. Hufnagel wrote:
>
> On Sun, 2 Nov 1997 17:03:54 -0700 (MST) Ray <rayc@U.Arizona.EDU>
> writes:
> >Yeah, my 84 Omega tops out at almost 250.  AND it has 780,000 miles

          I got all you guys beat. My Tecumseh 14 horse horizontal
> shaft
> lawn mower puts out 7000 h.p. and constantly beats F**raris and
> L*tuses
> and only uses 1/4 tank of gas. Amazing what a little shop work will
> do!!!

Bench Racers Unite!!!  Wow, kinda sounds like a f*rd forum!

Charley Buehner

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 13:20:49 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Hubcaps

     Can anyone confirm the existence of adapter rings which would
allow 14" hubcaps to be used on 15" wheels. I know that versions exist
for using 15" caps on 16" wheels.....I have them on my Suburban.
     I need the adapters so I can use 15" rims on my 65 Delta 88 but
still retain the neato 2 bar spinner wire wheel hubcaps :)
     The current 215/75R14 tires are too short! I wish someone made a
TALL 14" radial! Please! Or I'll have to use the 15" wheels.

TIA

===
John Pajak                            JSPajak@rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland  HTTP://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

65 Delta 88 2dr    70 Cutlass S 2dr       72 Cutlass conv
66 Toronado deluxe 70 Cutlass S W31       72 Delta 88 conv
69 Cutlass S 2dr   70 442 W30 conv        72 442 W30 conv
70 Cutlass S 2dr   71 Cutlass Supreme 2dr 86 Cutlass Supreme




_____________________________________________________________________
Sent by RocketMail. Get your free e-mail at http://www.rocketmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 13:24:19 -0800
From: Erik Nowacki <enowacki@titan.com>
Subject: Re: 489 HP 307?

>One other mod that really helps get these G-Body's going, get a rear
>axle from a 79-85 Toro/Eldo/Riviera.  They really help in the gas
>mileage, I found I could get moving faster with the special gearing the
>Toro's have.  I can't wait to try it out at Bonneville, the 2.14's and
>the 307 "Y" got me 225mph in a stone stock engine, that was the 2 way
>average.  So when I try the Toro axle I will know I will get to 300!!!
>
Please tell me how the rear end of a front wheel drive car will help you go
faster!  I am no expert on Toros, but I would tend to believe that the rear
end does not contain drive axles or even a differential.  Thus, a rear axle
in a front wheel drive car has no bearing whatsoever on the speed of the car.

Also, I am no expert in aerodynamics, but I would be absolutely amazed if a
little 307 was adequate to propel a G body to anywhere near 200MPH, let
alone 300MPH.  If the engine is in a streamliner, it is quite possible, but
in a regular car, I doubt it.

Please do explain how you intend to accomplish this.

Erik Nowacki
San Diego
72 Vista Cruiser

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 13:27:17 -0800
From: Erik Nowacki <enowacki@titan.com>
Subject: Re: 489 HP 307?

>One other mod that really helps get these G-Body's going, get a rear
>axle from a 79-85 Toro/Eldo/Riviera.  They really help in the gas
>mileage, I found I could get moving faster with the special gearing the
>Toro's have.  I can't wait to try it out at Bonneville, the 2.14's and
>the 307 "Y" got me 225mph in a stone stock engine, that was the 2 way
>average.  So when I try the Toro axle I will know I will get to 300!!!
>
OOOOPS!

Did I miss the sarcasm in this post.   Sorry guys (and ladies), I haven't
been paying attention to this thread and after reading some of it I won't
pay much attention to it in the future either.

Erik Nowacki
San Diego
72 Vista Cruiser

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 15:35:18 -0600
From: Shang <shoover@flash.net>
Subject: Re: Center Link Replacement???

hpnaepflin@CCGATE.HAC.COM wrote:

> What am I doing wrong?
>
> The pickle fork doesn't seem to be taking a "bite" into the joint.
>
> I'm using a regular hardware store hammer.  Do I need a bigger one?
<snip>

Probably not going to get it done with that hammer. You need to get a 3
pound hammer (mini-sledge) from the hardware store. The problem is that
you are not getting enough driving force to start the wedge.


>
> Is all this banging away on my steering box arm going to damage my steering
box? >

Your steering box will be fine, but check out the end of the pitman arm
(the one coming off the steering box with no joint) to make sure it
isn't chewed up beyond use (You will need a pitman arm puller to get it
off and the arms are not cheap.) The other arm you referred to is the
idler arm - these wear out like clock work on all GM vehicles of this
era. $12 at AutoZone.


Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 17:43:19 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Thermostat Bypass Hose Tip

On Mon, 3 Nov 1997, The Viking wrote:
> If you are looking for a molded bypass hose use NAPA 7388,,it works with
> a little massaging .. Napa's listing for an AMC-Javelin 40l c.i.

I assume you're referring to the curved hose? Aren't these readily
available anymore? I would think Fusicks would have them -- am I wrong?

I note that they changed the design at some point since the bypass outlet
on the Delta is a curved pipe and you just use regular heater hose to
connect it.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 17:07:06 -0500
From: evans1@serv01.net-link.net
Subject: I thought 307Y was under control! ;-)

>>One other mod that really helps get these G-Body's going, get a rear
>>axle from a 79-85 Toro/Eldo/Riviera.  They really help in the gas
>>mileage, I found I could get moving faster with the special gearing the
>>Toro's have.  I can't wait to try it out at Bonneville, the 2.14's and
>>the 307 "Y" got me 225mph in a stone stock engine, that was the 2 way
>>average.  So when I try the Toro axle I will know I will get to 300!!!
>>


Mike Evans
Richland, MI
evans1@net-link.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 17:19:48 -0500
From: mlstater@mediaone.net
Subject: (no subject)

Subject:
            '67 Olds Vista Cruiser
       Date:
            Mon, 03 Nov 1997 17:18:22 -0500
       From:
            Mark Stater <mlstater@mediaone.net>
Organization:
            SuperStock Inc.
         To:
            majordomo@ccn.cs.dal.ca


My grandfather was the original owner.  I've had the car since 1989, and
have had many minor and several major repairs done to the car.  A new
carb. was installed about a year ago, and during the past 6 months the
car has been basically kept in the garage.  Now, it is not running well
at all.  Starts fine and runs smooth, but after about 10 minutes of
idling, the engine stalls, and it stalls while driving too.  I think the
problem is simply with the new carb., and was wondering if there is any
way I can get info. so I can tinker with it myself.  Can anyone help?

Thanks for your attention.

Mark Stater
Jacksonville, Florida
e-mail: mlstater@mediaone.net
Fax: (904) 641-7184

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 18:52:53 -0500
From: evans1@serv01.net-link.net
Subject: Re: Edelbrock heads--SEMA

Hey, thanks, Erik!  Anyone know of any other hot items being introduced there?


>>Hey,
>>
>>Anyone headed to Vegas to the SEMA show?  As I recall, this was supposed to
>>be the big intro of the BB Olds aluminum heads.....not sure if they're
>>announcing availability, or if it's more of a "look, we've made a prototype,
>>we might make more someday" kind of thing.
>>
>I leave at 5AM tomorrow (tuesday) for Vegas and SEMA.  The Edelbrock booth
>is usually a busy place, but I'll look long and hard for those aluminum
>heads and other olds related products.
>
>I will be back in the office on Friday, hopefully I will have time to give
>you all an update.
>
>Erik Nowacki
>San Diego
>72 Vista Cruiser
>
>


Mike Evans
Richland, MI
evans1@net-link.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 18:54:05 -0500
From: "G. Douglas Burton" <postman@writeme.com>
Subject: More Hubcaps

While everyone is searching through their piles of hubcaps, I need 2 stock
wheel covers for my '84 Cutlass Supreme.  I only got 2 when I bought the
car and cannot locate any locally.  If you have a couple laying around
which you are not using, let me know and please give a price.  Thanks...

P.S. Did anyone ever figure out which wire to add the switch to for the
Lockup Torque Converter?  This thing is driving me nuts!

Just a message from Doug
http://www.seidata.com/~gdburton

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 17:02:42 -0700
From: Dustin Cross <livnrt@mssl.uswest.net>
Subject: Re: 489 HP 307?

> Did I miss the sarcasm in this post.   Sorry guys (and ladies), I haven't
> been paying attention to this thread and after reading some of it I won't
> pay much attention to it in the future either.

I'm hoping that it is finally dead.   it is amazing that that whole mess 
started
with someones simple question about spark plugs!!

DIE THREAD    DIE!!!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 19:40:42 -0800
From: Larry Polesnak <bullets@sgi.net>
Subject: Muscle Car Calendar 1972 Hurst Olds

Hello List,I was at a local drug store and walked pass the Greeting Card
racks..Saw a Muscle Car Calendar and one of the months is a 1972 Hurst
Olds the picture was about 15" by 12" really nice photo,calendar was in
bottom section..The price was $4.99..If you want one and can't find them
I could get them for you..This is a 1998 calendar..
                                               Larry Polesnak
    6    2    S    T    A    R    F    I    R    E

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 17:45:39 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: More Hubcaps

G. Douglas Burton wrote:
>
> While everyone is searching through their piles of hubcaps, I need 2
> stock
> wheel covers for my '84 Cutlass Supreme.  I only got 2 when I bought
> the
> car and cannot locate any locally.
What kind are they?  Spoke lockers?  They're fairly common, and I'll
probably wind up with a few extras here before too long.  Where are you
at?

Charley Buehner
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 12:31:45 -0800
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: New Olds fan needs help

Jason Adcock wrote:

> believe that, for the most part, it works well.  If I want to go fast, I'll
> get a fast car (442, Camaro, Trans-Am, etc.); I won't spend lots of money

No! Not a Chubby or Pontiatric!  I thought you were a level headed
young'un!
The shame! :-)

> Well, that's my English essay for this week...

You get a "C" for offensive material! :-)

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 09:24:01 -0800
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: 200-4R depression

Howie wrote:
>
> also consider having an internal lock-up for the converter

Is there a way to disable that darned lock-up to begin with?

Chris

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 09:44:29 -0800
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Which Tranny Swaps?

Terrill Yuhas wrote:

> UD/OD that gave your 3spd auto the equivalent of 6spd.  If anyone's
> interested, I'll look for the info I got from them.  It's about a year old
> but still neat reading.

Yes.  I am interested.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 20:45:25 -0500 (EST)
From: Patrick Rose <prose@email.unc.edu>
Subject: Heater

My heater isn't working right. I was driving the car for a long
time. I flipped the switch to Heat and tried all the fan speeds. All I got
seemed to be outside air. When I flipped the switch below the main one
from warm to cold and back it felt like it was opening or closing
something, but there was absolutely no effect. I know the engine was
pretty hot and I was wondering if anyone knew what I should check for
problems. Thanks.

Pat
'68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 20:52:14 -0500
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Hubcaps

John Pajak wrote:

>      The current 215/75R14 tires are too short! I wish someone made a
> TALL 14" radial! Please! Or I'll have to use the 15" wheels.

John,

Have you thought about the Cooper 225/14?  These cars really need a 235,
but I put the 225s on my Ninety Eight back in the Spring and they are a
big improvement over the 215s.  And their reasonably priced.

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

If it's tourist season, why can't we shoot them?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 21:58:23 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: More Hubcaps

I have a set of 14" wheel covers that I misidentified as 15" jobs. Bought
them for the Delta but of course they don't fit. :( I assume they are
from a Cutlass; maybe someone needs them. They have a flat center section
with an embossed Rocket logo; nearer the outside they dish inwards in a
ribbed pattern. Look a lot like the full-size hubcaps of '77-'79. Not
perfect but not bad, I paid $20 for them. Make me an offer, they're yours.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 22:02:35 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Heater

On Mon, 3 Nov 1997, Patrick Rose wrote:
> My heater isn't working right. I was driving the car for a long
> time. I flipped the switch to Heat and tried all the fan speeds. All I got
> seemed to be outside air. When I flipped the switch below the main one
> from warm to cold and back it felt like it was opening or closing
> something, but there was absolutely no effect. I know the engine was
> pretty hot and I was wondering if anyone knew what I should check for
> problems. Thanks.

Do you have A/C? If not, it sounds like maybe you have a plugged heater
core; if the heater doors are moving there's not much else to go wrong.
Make sure the cables are actually doing something down there.

If you have A/C it's more complicated; you might have a vacuum line gone
bad, or a heater cotrol valve (on the rear of the intake manifold) that
has failed.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 20:01:34 -0600
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: 200-4R depression

- -----Original Message-----
From: Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) <mrada@catalina-inter.net>


>Howie wrote:
>>
>> also consider having an internal lock-up for the converter
>
>Is there a way to disable that darned lock-up to begin with?
>
>Chris

Unplug it.

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 21:12:20 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: New Olds fan needs help

Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) wrote:
>
> > believe that, for the most part, it works well.  If I want to go fast, I'll
> > get a fast car (442, Camaro, Trans-Am, etc.); I won't spend lots of money
>
> No! Not a Chubby or Pontiatric!  I thought you were a level headed
> young'un!
> The shame! :-)
>
> > Well, that's my English essay for this week...
>
> You get a "C" for offensive material! :-)

Well, I tried... ;-)
_____________________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.erols.com/adcockjk

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 21:02:27 -0500
From: cm_hawk@juno.com (Clay V Merenuk)
Subject: Re: Power Seat Question

I have a 69 442 convertible with a dealer installed 6-way power seat( or
was it 4-way).
  Let me know what you guys need to know.

Clay
69 442 convertible

On Sun, 2 Nov 1997 23:21:57 -0500 (EST) COUPEKING@aol.com writes:
>Am interested in doing the same thing with my '68 442. If anybody has
>any
>ecperience with this addition, post your experiences.
>I have a power seat core seat already. Any tricks before I proceed?
>
>CoupeKing
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 21:32:16 -0500
From: cm_hawk@juno.com (Clay V Merenuk)
Subject: Sams PhotoFact ?

Bobby,
What is the Sams PhotoFact set?  I have a old radio that has the Wonder
Bar
(Seek and Scan).  I have been looking for Schematics or any repair
manuals.
Let me know if you cah help.

Clay Merenuk
CM_HAWK@JUNO.COM

The radio and the stereo adapter are separate as was noted. The radio
has one amp and the adapter as the other amp. I dont think both amps
would go out at once, but they could. The tape player cuts off the radio
and uses its own amps and the same speakers as the radio  when you put a
tape in, so I think they are OK. It could be the volume control, or one
of the "IF" transistors but I am only guessing here. Dave, I have the
Sams PhotoFact set for this radio, if you need more information let me
know.


Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the..... Past

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 21:14:47 -0500
From: "W-MACHINES" <W-MACHINES@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: oops

I think I may have one for you.  Where are you?

W-Machines@prodigy.net
Northern Ohio

- ----------
> From: babbott@pdnt.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: oops
> Date: Tuesday, October 28, 1997 5:56 PM
>
> Hey fellers,
> I need a good (no cracks) B head.  Some rotten bastard tried to port it
and
> ruined it....boy if I knew who did it I'd.........wait a minute... I did
it
>   anyway I do need a head, so if you have one you can spare, give me a
> shout.
>                                         Thanks,
>                                     Eric Phillips
> babbott@pdnt.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 97 21:42:22 EST
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: Heater

At 08:45 PM 11/3/97 -0500, you wrote:
>My heater isn't working right. I was driving the car for a long
>time. I flipped the switch to Heat and tried all the fan speeds. All I got
>seemed to be outside air. When I flipped the switch below the main one
>from warm to cold and back it felt like it was opening or closing
>something, but there was absolutely no effect. I know the engine was
>pretty hot and I was wondering if anyone knew what I should check for
>problems. Thanks.
>
>Pat
>'68 Cutlass Supreme
>
>

      If the coolant level in the radiator is low it can also cause this
condition.

   Glenn
   '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 97 21:44:47 EST
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Dash Lights and Clock

   Many thanks to Andrew Green for his accurate explanations of the basic
electricals behind the dash gauges of my '69 4-4-2.  The left half of the
gauge lights didn't work from the middle of the speedometer (center gauge)
and all the lamps in the left gauge which ended up being one bad bulb and
two broken male pins on the mylar like printed circuit on the left most
gauge (fuel).  The main culprit was the male pins that the plug fits onto
are soldered to the very flexible mylar type printed circuit. It wouldn't
take much of a yank or pull on the wire harness to break the pins from the
circuit. Anyway it's now fixed....done.  Now that I'm in there I figure that
since this fat boy got himself snaked up under the dash that I might as well
try to fix the clock (far right gauge). Lights worked fine in it but it was
stuck at 2:15.
  Thanks here to Greg B. for his great overview on fixing the clock.
Unfortunately the WD40 wouldn't work here. I removed the clock from the dash
and dissasembled it to find out that the return or ground contact for the
relay had broken off from the brass rewind disk. You'd have to have been
there to know what I'm talking about here but I know that if I had four
hands I could fix it.  Got to get ahold of my buddy 'the welder god' and we
can fix 'er.  I should really send it out to get quartzed, but I'd rather
fix it the way it was originally.....just for the hell of it.

   Glenn
   '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 21:47:39 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Toro obtained

Shagged the 77 Toro Sunday... learned a few things.

The 403 can make front tire smoke.

It helps to have wet tires, and be going uphill.

Toros get great traction in mud.

Especially if the tires are half flat.

They do GREAT donuts- in reverse.

The 6-yr-old has a riot steering while we do the above.

Half-flat tires tend to come off the rim.

That does not prevent a Toro from continuing, though it shakes a lot.

- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 21:50:04 -0500 (EST)
From: Patrick Rose <prose@email.unc.edu>
Subject: Re: Heater

> On Mon, 3 Nov 1997, Patrick Rose wrote:
> > My heater isn't working right. I was driving the car for a long
> > time. I flipped the switch to Heat and tried all the fan speeds. All I got
> > seemed to be outside air. When I flipped the switch below the main one
> > from warm to cold and back it felt like it was opening or closing
> > something, but there was absolutely no effect. I know the engine was
> > pretty hot and I was wondering if anyone knew what I should check for
> > problems. Thanks.
>
> Do you have A/C? If not, it sounds like maybe you have a plugged heater
> core; if the heater doors are moving there's not much else to go wrong.
> Make sure the cables are actually doing something down there.
>
> If you have A/C it's more complicated; you might have a vacuum line gone
> bad, or a heater cotrol valve (on the rear of the intake manifold) that
> has failed.
>
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>
I do have A/C. Are the vaccum lines those little black hoses that connect
into the back of the dashboard switch? Do I check those by making sure
they're not blocked by something? I'm also not sure where the intake
manifold is, sorry. Could you just be a little more specific? I haven't
worked with this before.

Thanks,
Pat

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 18:47:26 -0800 (PST)
From: Chuck Martin <shortyg442@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: Heater

- ---Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net> wrote:
>
> At 08:45 PM 11/3/97 -0500, you wrote:
> >My heater isn't working right. I was driving the
car for a long
> >time. I flipped the switch to Heat and tried all
the fan speeds. All I got
> >seemed to be outside air. When I flipped the
switch below the main one
> >from warm to cold and back it felt like it was
opening or closing
> >something, but there was absolutely no effect. I
know the engine was
> >pretty hot and I was wondering if anyone knew what
I should check for
> >problems. Thanks.
> >
> >Pat
> >'68 Cutlass Supreme
> >
> >
>
>       If the coolant level in the radiator is low
it can also cause this
> condition.
>
>    Glenn
>    '69 4-4-2
>
> Might want to check and see if you need a new
thermastat. its located under the goose neck on top
of the intake manifold. the thermastat gives your car
heat if its shot you want have heat also look and
inspect heater hoses.
chuck 442,69,cutlass.

_____________________________________________________________________
Sent by RocketMail. Get your free e-mail at http://www.rocketmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 21:53:21 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Weird block ª's

Found a 455 block at the scrap yard the other day. Nearby were some J heads and
a W intake w/egr. Investigating the block, I looked for the VIN stamp.
Strangely enough, what numbers were there were upside down. No evidence that
they were stamped over others. And, a drill spot. The numbers were in 2 lines:
   L705B
   3395 *

Such that, looking at the block upside right, the arrangement would be:

   *5933
   B507L

Except of course each digit would be upside down compared to the above. The *
represents the drill spot, about 1/8" dia. Casting date by dist. hole was

   4
  20

Casting ID was the typical ...021 F block. "F1" on rear face.

Anybody else stumble across such a numbering scheme? Maybe it was a boat motor
or something?
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 23:36:39 -0800
From: Greg Pruett <grpruett@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: extrusion honing

Chris Brown Witt wrote:
>
> >$500.00 for the exhaust manifolds
> >$365.00 for the intake manifold
> >$995.00 for the cast iron heads
>
> Dang, $2000 for an engine! Assuming that's not PER HEAD co$t there...
>
> Gets me to wondering:
> 1) What if a bunch of us contract to do Olds parts all at once, can we get a
> group discount?
>
> 2) I bet we can design a simple system to do the same thing: use low 
pressure,
> rubber impeller centrifugal pump, abrasive slurry, take longer, but require 
no
> babysitting anyhow. Let her run for a week or three. Angela came up with the
> perfect analogy: like waves & sand polish rocks & glass shards at the beach.
> Rubber pumps hold up quite well to abrasive slurries.

Hmmm.  Ever see a water pump from an old washing machine?  I've got one
that looks like it has a rubber case, and it's looks to work just like
the water pump off an engine.  Maybe the impeller is rubber or plastic
too, I never checked.  Whaddya think?  This might be worth a shot.

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista Cruiser
`67 Cutlass supreme
`80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 02:22:55 -0800
From: camenz@internet-australia.com (camenz)
Subject: Re: 58 Roadmaster

G'day Charley,

I don't have any pictures of my '58 or '73 on the net but I can tell you
that my '58 is much the same as your '57 - a big project!! My '58 is a 4
door pillarless hardtop. It's black in colour with a blue and white
interior. It also has all the bells and whistles - power steering, power
windows, electric seat, electric antenna, power brakes, etc. I bought
the car on May 3rd 1994 for AUS$4,000 (or $3,000 US). Since then I have
not touched it. It just sits in my garage under wraps. The bloke who
owned it before me was bloody wanker because he left it out in the
elements for 10 years and did not drive it once!! That really did
terrible damage to the car. The interior is totally ruined, the paint is
all faded and cracked, and there is rust in every panel especially the
floor. The car has not been registered since February 1985 and it's
going to need a full body off-the-frame resto.

It's history is interesting though. It was originally imported by a
famous Sydney jockey back in 1958 but he didn't pay his import duty so
the car was seized by customs and sold to the Australian Government.
They used it for many years to transport VIP's, the most notable being
our longest serving prime minister, Sir Robert Menzies. The aussie flag
mount is still attached to the hood!! The Buick is 95% complete with
only a few minor bits of trim missing.

I love the '57's too!! Was that the year when Buick split the rear
window into 3 separate pieces and ran that chrome trim between them?? We
do have a few 57's here but they are as rare as a virgin. Same goes for
58's. The official head count for aussie 58's is just 18. Only 2 of
those are Roadmasters, mine being one of them.

Buick used to sell cars in Australia up until 1948. The bodies were
produced by Holden (rather than Fisher) and although they were similar,
some were different to the standard American issue. When Holden started
producing their own cars, Buick production ended down under. Every Buick
in Australia that was made after 1948, is fully imported from the USA.
Mid to late fifties Buicks are extremely rare because there was a
recession happening at the time so nobody could afford to import any.
More and more are being imported all the time though and it's good to
see such beautiful cars being restored and driven.

Glen Camenzuli (1973 Buick Electra Limited 455)
       (1958 Buick Roadmaster 364)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 22:25:31 -0500
From: "Eric T. Brubakken" <ebrubak@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Thermostat Bypass Hose Tip

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>
> On Mon, 3 Nov 1997, The Viking wrote:
> > If you are looking for a molded bypass hose use NAPA 7388,,it works with
> > a little massaging .. Napa's listing for an AMC-Javelin 40l c.i.
>
> I assume you're referring to the curved hose? Aren't these readily
> available anymore? I would think Fusicks would have them -- am I wrong?
>
> I note that they changed the design at some point since the bypass outlet
> on the Delta is a curved pipe and you just use regular heater hose to
> connect it.
>
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
Olds went to the housing with a pipe early in the 70's.  It seemed that
the curved hose would not stand up to the heat and burst.  This housing
was sold as a replacement kit for many years.  It is no longer available
from GM, but PepBoys does stock a replacement for it.  It is not of the
same quality as the GM part, but what is anymore.

Most owners didn't noticed the hose on the bypass had bursted and would
keep driving, ignoring any lights or gagues.  Actually what would happen
is when all the water has been pumped out of the motor there wasn't any
water flowing around the temp sender, the sender would actually turn off
the hot light and the owner would think everything was back to normal.
If fact this got so bad on the early 70's Toros, that there were
actually 2 lights.  One for the temp and another one that would light up
a warning light 'STOP ENGINE'.  When this happend the engine had got hot
enought for major repair work.  This second sensor was actually located
on one of the head bolts on the right bank of the engine.  In fact once
this sensor worked it had to be replaced because the metal within the
unit actually melted to make contact for the switch.

Just my .02 worth

Eric Brubakken
ebrubake@ix.netcom.com

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª936
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