
oldsmobile-digest       Sunday, October 12 1997       Volume 01 : Number 900



Re: Sway Bars
Re: Dual-Snorkel Air Cleaner
Re: Tranny Troubles
Re: 69 H/O engine
Re: Sway Bars
Re: Sway Bars
Parts/motors for sale
Re: More build sheet info (Was: Build Sheet Help)
Re: 69 H/O engine
Re: Sway Bars
Re: Sway Bars
Re: Saturday Stuff
Re: speaker ohm question?
Re: ADVICE NEEDED!!!
Re: 73 442
Re: Bumper parts
Re: Sway Bars
Names
Re: Handren's and Gillespie's Cars
Re: Bumper parts
Re: Sway Bars
Hubcaps
Trans Troubles (fwd)
Re: coolant overflow
FS:1980 Olds Cutlass Supreme (fwd)
Re: Re[2]: 455 rocket
Re: Sway Bars
Re: Parts/motors for sale
Don Sowers
Re: dist'r speed
drawings
Re: 
Re: hardtop convertible
Re: "Hardtop Convertibles"
Concerning 350's and 455's
Re: VIN Number
Build Sheet
Re: speaker ohm question?
Re: Sway Bars
Re: curving the distribitor?
Test - Can anyone else see this?
Re: Build Sheet
Re: Test - Can anyone else see this?
Re: Test - Can anyone else see this?
Re: VIN Number, how to find
Re: Test - Can anyone else see this?
Steering Column Fixed, FYI
Re: Concerning 350's and 455's
Re: 455 rocket
Re: Build Sheet
Re: Dual-Snorkel Air Cleaner
Automatic Trainy ID, FYI
Re: Sway Bars
Re: Sway Bars
Re: Dual-Snorkel Air Cleaner (Ram Air)
Which year 350 is best?
Re: Dual-Snorkel Air Cleaner (Ram Air)
rear seal
Re: Dual-Snorkel Air Cleaner (Ram Air)
Re: rear seal
Re: rear seal
Re: Dual-Snorkel Air Cleaner (Ram Air)
Re: FS:1980 Olds Cutlass Supreme (fwd)
Oldsmoble
READ ME...questioning authority
Re: New & Used pre 39  parts

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 00:24:54 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Sway Bars

On Sat, 11 Oct 1997, padavano.joe wrote:
>      
>      By the way, that Formula wouldn't happen to have a WS-6 steering box, 
>      would it?

OK, I'll bite...

1) What's WS-6 mean?

2) Why would it be desireable?

3) How can I tell whether it is or isn't?

I can hardly wait to hear about this one...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 23:27:31 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Dual-Snorkel Air Cleaner

Adcock, Jason K. wrote:
> 
> To owners of G-Body performance cars:
> 
> Do any of your cars have dual snorkel air cleaners? 

Yep.  Standard on 83/84 H/O and 85-87 442.  It is the same as the normal
"Y" code engine air cleaner, however it has a stubby snorkel 180 degrees
from the front one.  It does have its own therm-ac unit though.  And oh
yes, a chrome lid.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 23:33:37 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Tranny Troubles

> Please, respond to me with any advice, comments, or experiences that
> you have concerning this...


Since it did it with the 350 also, I suspect it could be a problem
somewhere with the rest of the car.  Since they are going to rebuild the
tranny anyway, check the rear planet assembly for extreme wearing and
check end play before you tear it all apart.  Sometimes, and I've seen
this, the driveshaft is not cut to the proper length, most of the time
it is too long.  If this is the case, you will have no room for the
driveshaft to slide back and forth as the rear suspension moves.  The
yoke then "bottoms" out on the tailshaft, trying to push the guts of the
trans right through the torque converter.  You know what happens next.

Just a whimsical opinion.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 23:22:37 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 69 H/O engine

DEOVIVERE@aol.com wrote:
> 
> A friend of mine who is a non-Olds guy has a dismantled but complete (no
> air-cleaner assembly) and apparently all original 69 H/O engine 

Talk to me.  What where, yadda yadda......e-mail me privately.   The
engine itself isn't much more than a 10.25 to 1 compression 455 mill
with slightly dished pistons. It comes with a nodular iron crank,
although reportedly there has been "some" unconfirmed steels.  The 4 bbl
carb was your run-of-the mill 7029251 carb, and it came with "D" heads,
and again, I keep hearing about "C" heads being used in A/C
applications, but I know a guy that has an original with A/C, and it has
"D's".  Go figure. 

Here's some more fun stuff.  The cast iron intake # is 405233, and has
the PCV tube sticking out of it in the front. Only used on 69 H/O.  The
valve covers are chromed stock units, with indentations for the
clearances, and it has either an 1111973 or 1111989 distributor #.  

If it can be safely rebuilt, without boring, then I would best
guesstimate somewhere around $1000 complete.  To replace the heads and
intake alone, it would cost you more than that, but again, everything is
worth more in parts.

Mike Rothe
1969 H/O

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 23:41:33 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Sway Bars

> OK, I'll bite...
> 
> 1) What's WS-6 mean?
> 
Greg, the WS-6 is another GM brand's way of stealing a "W" code from the
leader.  Joking aside, it is that brand's equivalent of the FE2
suspension upgrades.  It also included a bunch of other goodies that our
good friends at Oldsmobile didn't.  Namely, a steering box as tight as
you'll ever find.  Along with a fat sway bar.  They both just happen to
fit A-bodied Olds too.  I think Bob Handren has a box on his car, I
think.  At least he may have some input on it.  That's about all I know,
since I didn't/don't keep up with inferior brands option codes very
well.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 00:07:14 -0400
From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Subject: Re: Sway Bars

Greg, look for the late second generation F-body Trans Am's equipped with
the WS6 option. Usually rear disc brakes is a give away that it is a WS6,
but there are exceptions. I have an 80 Trans Am with the WS6 option in my
salvage yard. The front sway bar looks like a 1 3/4 or so...very big. 

Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio
Quality Engineer - TRW, Inc. Automotive Group
95 Impala SS                    85 S-10 Blazer 4x4
80 Olds 442 W-30             75 Hurst/Olds W-25

- ----------

> 
> Right next to the Ch*vy in the yard was an '80 Firebird Formula. Looked
> into the engine room and it's front bar was a beefy one, looked to be
> maybe 1 1/4 inches. I understand that this would fit my Cutlass. I was
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 00:16:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: Daily73@aol.com
Subject: Parts/motors for sale

Anyone needing more info about the 455 or the 72 cutlass parts I posted
earlier, please contact me at Daily73@aol.com as I will be off the members
list for awhile. Thanks.    P.S. I'm looking for a 71 rally pac setup and
misc. 71 442 odds and ends. How much? OR what do I have that you need?!?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 04:25:50 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: More build sheet info (Was: Build Sheet Help)

>Fisher Body Plate:
>            04E
>ST 68-35639        LAN364670  BODY
>TR 357                           R-R *   PAINT
>
>And the VIN: 354398M361534 <- NOTICE DIFFERENT BODY STYLE!

Olds did that back then; the body style reflected the actual makeup of the
body, even if the other options or equipment on the car would put the car in
another "series". Sorry, though, can't tell you much about the other
numbers, except that it's an entry-level 88 with a body styled and equipped
like the higher line body (you say it's a Delmont, but it's outfitted like a
Delta? That would make sense of these numbers). So, from the body plate

68=1968
3=Oldsmobile
56=Delta-style body
39=Holiday Sedan (hardtop 4-door)
LAN=built in Lansing, MI
364670=sequential body plant production number
357=interior trim (sorry, don't have the details on this)
R-R= Paint code; though these are theoretically numbers, sometimes they're
letters instead. Is it a red car?

The VIN breaks down similarly:
3=Oldsmobile
54=Delmont 88 series (?)
39=Holiday Sedan
M=Lansing, MI
361534=sequential plant production number

The identical codes on the build sheet mean the same thing. Things like the
A01 (tinted windows) are the options; again, sorry, but I don't have a list
of '68 88 options.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 04:25:53 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: 69 H/O engine

>> >A friend of mine who is a non-Olds guy has a dismantled but complete (no
>> >air-cleaner assembly) and apparently all original 69 H/O engine that he
wants
>> >to get rid of.  It needs a rebuild.  What do you all think it would be
worth?

Well, the "D" heads alone are in the $1000/pair bracket, but nothing else
about that motor is really more special than a 455 from a 98 of the same
year. If it's in need of a complete rebuild, perhaps $1200 for everything?
Or if you find the poor '69 H/O owner who's missing the original engine and
needs this particular one to make it numbers-matching, then you're in the
$2000-$3000 gouge-and-take-advantage zone. 

>> >Tom SImmons
>> >71 Cutlass Supreme SX and (soon) 70 SX W-32
>> >
>> ummmmmmmmmm...I think that the 71 cutlass sx would be a w-32 model also 
>being there weren't any L-33 made is SX's in 
>1971...anyone...anyone.....Hoagie

I don't have a '71 shop manual handy, but AFAIK, there was only one engine
available on the '71. Now, if it was in fact a 442-spec motor, it would in
effect be a "W-32" motor, even without the designation. But, since the W-32
was a kind of "extra-performance" option on a high-performance car (first
442, then SX), the standard '71 SX motor wouldn't be called a W-32.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 00:34:10 -0400
From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Subject: Re: Sway Bars

Greg,

The WS6 option consisted of Four wheel disc brakes with rear discs being
11.1", stiffer rear springs (25lb/in. higher deflection rating), stiffer
rear shackle bushings, lower control arm supports, .75" rear stabilizer
bar, polyurethane link bushings, tighter valved shocks, 14:1 constant ratio
steering box, and a 1.25 front sway bar (not the 1.75 I said before).

Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com)  Akron, Ohio
Quality Engineer - TRW, Inc. Automotive Group
95 Impala SS                    85 S-10 Blazer 4x4
80 Olds 442 W-30            75 Hurst/Olds W-25

- ----------
> From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
>
> 
> 1) What's WS-6 mean?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 00:34:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: Re: Sway Bars

Im running a 1.25 in front and 1.5 in the rear, with poly bushings i dont
think the ride is to harsh at all. If you dont match up the bars you may over
or under steer. The herb adams kit in summit comes with a 1.31 front and 1.5
rear. So i would assume that seems tobe a pretty good ballpark. Good Luck joe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 22:36:18 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Saturday Stuff

< < < Snipped stuff about pinging 84 307...  > > > 

Jason, I'd first double check your base timing (EST Unplugged, ALDL
Jumperred, etc. as per the emission sticker) and then I'd disconnect the
battery for about 30 seconds or more.  Sometimes these computers build
up a memory of running conditions and compensations, so a sudden change
can really affect this.  In your case the O2 sensor may have been
enough?  Perhaps before resetting the ECM (by disconnecting the battery)
you might check for any stored codes in there.  
As for the knock sensor, I'd assume there's one in there.  My 83's both
have one (V6's, though).  You might try sticking some octane boost to
see if that helps the pinging, too?  It might be just bad gas...  Either
way, resetting the ECM often helps those computer "hickups" if that's
what is happening...
- -- 
    
             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
             Box 524               | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Sidney, Montana 59270 | http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
	     "TRBO LVR" (Maybe???:)| '83 Turbo Regal
               	     Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 23:41:36 -0400
From: jeff antonucci <antonj@erols.com>
Subject: Re: speaker ohm question?

I bought an 8 ohm 6x9 from Radio Shack this summer for the rear of my
'70 442 convertible.  Works great with the top up.

Jeff Antonucci

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 23:51:15 -0700
From: "Forrest Johnson" <johnson@edisongroup.com>
Subject: Re: ADVICE NEEDED!!!

> 1. Is there an easy way to get the bearing off without  a press? What about
> the inner retainer?

Some shops cut the bearing and retainer with a torch.  If they are 
REAL good, thay can cut them off without getting the axel too hot
(turning it colors). 
> 
> 2. The outer retainer or clamp is not flat between the bolt holes on each of
> the four sides.      Is this normal? The manual shows straight flat edges
> between the holes. I think my original rear end had a flat retainer,
> otherwise it was identical.
>

Some of these have a vent crease on the inner side the retainer.
Other than that, it should be faily flat.
 
> 3. If it's not normal, does anyone have a spare outer retainer/clamp for
> sale?
> 
> 4. There was RTV or some type of sealer between the retainer/clamp and the
> backing plate. Is it normal to use this stuff to seal the axle or is this
> maybe an attemp to try and compensate for the distorted retainer?

A small dab of  this is ok. don't over do it.


I rebuilt my rear end in my 68 Cutlass a few months back and found
some interesting things going on.  The rear leaked only a small amout
of fluid from the axel seals and I figured I could live with that.
When I pulled the axels out, the bearing cam out in about 20 pieces.
This is where I saw a shop cut the bearing off with a tourch.  The other
side was the big problem.  The bearing was in tact, but was loose on the
axel.  I had to replace the axel since the bearing had cut a groove in
the axel.  Also, one of the donor axels looked as if it had come out of
the shaft at some point in its history.  It had a parts of the splines
missing and after pulling out, wouldn't go back in.  Only reason I saw
it was due to the cut it left on my hand when it slipped out of my
hand.  It was real oily and gunky and hard too see the bad stuff.

Forrest

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 00:49:48 -0400 (EDT)
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: Re: 73 442

It was the W-29 that gave you the 442 package. It came with stripes, emblems,
rallye suspension,hood louvers,grill,and 14x7 rims. I cant give you the name
of the book im looking at (first few pages missing) but it gives quite a few
details on the 73 442. joe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 23:54:33 -0700
From: "Forrest Johnson" <johnson@edisongroup.com>
Subject: Re: Bumper parts

> > I was wondering how many rubber bumper fillers were used in the front
> > and back bumpers say for a 68? 

As luck has it, it's been raining all day here in Dallas.  I also had
the pleasure of having 19 one years olds at the house for our twins
1st birthday.  I am still checking my sanity.

I will check the bumpers as soon as it stops raining and it's daylight
at the same time.

Forrest

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 22:44:40 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Sway Bars

> Looked
> into the engine room and it's front bar was a beefy one, looked to be
> maybe 1 1/4 inches. I understand that this would fit my Cutlass. I was
> tempted to get it also but was worried a little that it might make the
> ride too harsh. 

Greg, DO IT!  You won't regret it.  For the ride, you still have springs
and shocks.  When I put the tree trunk under the Rockit, it made a world
of difference.  It helped a lot.  My ride didn't seem to suffer at all,
that I noticed.  'Course, I was running small 60 series then, so that
took the blame for any harshness I had.  Even so, it's still a
comfortable ride.  As for the Polyurethane bushings mentioned, they'd
make a nice bonus.  If I were to spend $$$$ on bushings, however, they'd
be to fit the tree trunk, not the toothpick. :)  My front sway bar came
out of a 78 Buick wagon, which I found suprising.  V6 car, too.  Hmm. 
Big bar, though.  (Don't have specs to quote, but it's many times bigger
than the stock toothpick that was down there!)  

I'd recommend swapping the end links at the very least, though.  While
you have it apart, it's the best time to do it.  They aren't that much
$$$, and they have something of a habit of being worn out...

Good luck, and happy cornerring!!!!
 
    
             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
             Box 524               | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Sidney, Montana 59270 | http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
	     "TRBO LVR" (Maybe???:)| '83 Turbo Regal
               	     Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 21:47:56 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Names

Can't you create a signature and include your  city, state and cars?  

I know where you live & what cars you have, but the other guys may not.


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser 

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 21:50:36 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Handren's and Gillespie's Cars

>Well, I just voted 12 times....
I voted 6 times too.....but  I'm not tellin' for who.




Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser 

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 22:07:24 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Bumper parts

  I also had
>the pleasure of having 19 one years olds at the house for our twins
>1st birthday.  I am still checking my sanity.
Good heavans if you've still got it its a miracle!


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser (twin hauler)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 22:03:56 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Sway Bars

 The front sway bar looks like a 1 3/4 or so...very big. 
I have been hauling around the original sway bar off a (okay I apologize
for using the following terms on this list but oh well) '70 SS454 Chevelle.
 What size is this?  Its buried or I'd drag it out & measure.  Its
scheduled to go on the front of the VC when it gets the new motor.


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser (twin hauler)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 01:33:28 -0600
From: Robert Bennett <rbennett@Netway.ab.ca>
Subject: Hubcaps

Would apreciate a line on caps [ full wheel with spinners ] for '56
Super Holiday "98" Two were stolen in '56 , still have two
originals.These are the only parts missing from factory original car. No
kidding,at 12,826 miles even the tires are still factory issue. Been
stored since '57 in heated storage, Have factory Delco battery rebuilt
and dry charged.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 07:50:16 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Trans Troubles (fwd)

Lisa, you sent this to me by mistake... forwarding

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 21:33:40 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
To: oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Trans Troubles

The VC is exhibiting signs of transmission troubles.  The following
symptoms have arisen out of this scenario:

1.  TH400 trans rebuilt 1 1/2 yrs. ago by someone 'good' (past experiences
w/ his work).

2.  Converter 'looked good' at rebuild time and not changed.  This is a
230,000 mile original motor.

3.  Has been used in past year to do MAJOR tow projects.  Fluid = while
full = has changed to a light brown (just past a discolored pink) upon
checking today.

4.  Fluid does not smell bad nor has it been 'using' any.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~SYMPTOMS~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

1.  Using the column shift, leaving it in 1/low it will stay in low only.

2.  Leaving it in drive, it will start out in low and at a certain RPM (do
stock trannies have rev limiters of some type?) it goes into neutral and
only comes out at a lower RPM.

3.  Considered linkage problems, and after it exhibited first symptoms,
upon 'clicking up' through all gears it was OK until it was driven & warmed
up again wherein we reverted back to 1 & 2's symptoms.

Well?  Converter?  Valve body?  Linkage?  I've always had my trans wizard
to turn to but he's out of town (guy who rebuilt it) and I'm casting about
for insight here.

Need an idea what to start looking at tomorrow.

As always - thanks in advance :-)  Hey, I guess its a good thing I bought
that '64.........its the only thing thats a backup driver right now (funny
how that works).




Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser 

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 13:50:49 +0300
From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.fi>
Subject: Re: coolant overflow

Gary Manton wrote:

> I added some coolant to my '64 Dynamic 88 with a 394, and there is no
> overflow tank.
No, there isn't, but there is a hose coming out of the radiator near the cap.
When the cap lets steam out under over-pressure, this hose guides the vapor
and fluid under the car.

> It started smoking after a while, which I thought was just
> the overflow hitting the engine.  It eventually started smoking a lot, and
> then some rather annoying knocking.
Smoke colour ?
- - blue				Oil burning in the cylider(s), nothing to do with
					coolant.

- - white (steam)		Depends. If coming out of exhaust pipe, might be a broken
					head gasket or other blown gasket allowing coolant
					go into exhaust chamber.

					Might also be oil dripping onto exhaust pipe. 

> I pulled off the road, and as I got to
> the top of the exit ramp, she decided to die.  It was there that any lights
> decided to come on, gen and oil. The heat light never came on.
Electrical problem as well. Just one of those days.... This (on  my opinion)
has nothing in common with the coolant. Sometimes if there is a huge air
pocket in engine coolant system, the hot-light may not light up.

> I burnt
> most of my oil and it was pretty much dry.  I am looking for advice on two
> topics, first if anyone has experienced this, and what might be the issues
> to look for as I start to dissect the car.  Second, I will be looking for an
> overflow tank for the radiator, and wondering if anyone had any suggestions.
There You see, 'twas the oil burning.

Do You have the AC option ?

Mine AC pump broke in a way that jammed the pump alltogether. Didn't notice nothing
until I saw the smoke coming under the hood. The belts had warmed the balancer
and fried the rubber parts away. The result was a balancer with a loose metal ring
making awful noise. 
 
- -- 
x----------------------------------------------------x
x Anneli & Esko Ilola     mailto:esko.ilola@tele.fi  x
x                          phone:+358 2040 3439      x
x Oldsmobile 98 -64 4DHT  Holiday sports sedan       x
x "Where the action is...."                          x
x----------------------------------------------------x

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 08:24:45 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: FS:1980 Olds Cutlass Supreme (fwd)

Anyone see this? Thought it might be of interest to someone...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Newgroups: rec.autos.rod-n-custom
Subject: (fwd) FS:1980 Olds Cutlass Supreme
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 18:37:02 -0400
From: macino <macino@ibm.net>

Hi, and excuse me for putting a 'For Sale' smack dab in the
middle of the newsgroup. I've tried 3 times to post a 'Car for
Sale at www.442.com. I've been an internet geek for 10 years
and I can't figure that deal out.

 I've got a 1980 Olds Cutlass Supreme Diesel (well not exactly)
that I need to 'get out of here'. The power train was replaced around
1987. The car other than being started has sat since 1988. It is very
restorable. It is drivable, no major dents or
dings. There is a little rust. If I bought the car, I'd trailer
it home, change the transmission fluid, turn the drums and rotors, and
then drive it. 

 As most of you know, the 80 and 81 Cutlass Diesel had an aluminum hood,
and supposedly a little heavier zinc plating than the gasoline cars.
Olds thought that 'Diesel' was the wave
of the future. O.K. now about THIS car.

 Engine 350 cu in. .030 over 350 hp. It has a .440/.444 lift
cam and antipumpup lifters. The engine is a 350R fitted with
hardened valve seats. Pistons are a 'special design' that have
stainless steel impregnated cylinder tops. The engine probably
has 12-14,000 on it since the rebuild. Transmission is a THM400
that was built by Moore Transmissions in Fort Wayne. You probably also
know that a THM400 was never available in an
80 Cutlass, so the firewall had to be kicked back about a half
inch, and the driveshaft cut and balanced by Fort Wayne Clutch. The rear
end is a 2.56 or whatever was stock with the diesel cars. 70 mph is
about 1500 rpm. Top end??? I know it has eaten up a substantial number
of IROC's even with that weeny rear end. I started building this car in
stages, always keeping it streetable which is where it is right now. My
intent was to build a car that would come close to my old GTO. Well, I
ended up with a GTO and this car has been idle for a long time. Radio
has been pulled, good tires, Olds 'mags' The car is in Northern Indiana.
The first $750 takes it. It has got to go!

 I won't sell the car to 'a kid'. Sorry, but it is a little
too much car for a first time driver. 

 Serious inquiries only - email me macino@ibm.net

- --
Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 07:54:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: AllNiteLng@aol.com
Subject: Re: Re[2]: 455 rocket

       My '66 Delta 88 has the man. to man crossover pipe with single exhaust

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 08:39:22 -0700
From: "David, Terri and Rob" <hoagie@emeraldis.com>
Subject: Re: Sway Bars

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
> 
> On Sat, 11 Oct 1997, padavano.joe wrote:
> >
> >      By the way, that Formula wouldn't happen to have a WS-6 steering box,
> >      would it?
> 
> OK, I'll bite...
> 
> 1) What's WS-6 mean?
> 
> 2) Why would it be desireable?
> 
> 3) How can I tell whether it is or isn't?
> 
> I can hardly wait to hear about this one...
> 
> Greg Beaulieu        ab348@chebucto.ns.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

not a pontiac man...maybe quick ratio box...I know their suspensions 
setups are different than any other GM car...Radial Tuned 
Suspension....something John DeLorean came up with...like the ol 
Widetrack days..
Hoagie

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 08:47:24 -0700
From: "David, Terri and Rob" <hoagie@emeraldis.com>
Subject: Re: Parts/motors for sale

Daily73@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Anyone needing more info about the 455 or the 72 cutlass parts I posted
> earlier, please contact me at Daily73@aol.com as I will be off the members
> list for awhile. Thanks.    P.S. I'm looking for a 71 rally pac setup and
> misc. 71 442 odds and ends. How much? OR what do I have that you need?!?


good luck on that rally pac..my SX has 1...they don't grow on 
trees...and if you find the complete setup...it ain't cheap....but...a 
standard sun tach II fits nicely in the useless clock hole....and 
a set of triple sun guages under the dash isn't a death 
sentence...they are accurate if nothing else....Hoagie

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 09:07:37 -0700
From: "David, Terri and Rob" <hoagie@emeraldis.com>
Subject: Don Sowers

Yes Don,
	If you had 7K in paint sitting on a car in your garage....and 
its been there for over a year....and your getting anxious about doing 
something with it...hense the imperitiveness of the situation...the door 
panels condition....IS NOT IMPORTANT....all I need are the inner steel 
upper pieces to make a set of Year One door panels useable...so 
condition...color.....not important...just need to be for a convertible 
thats it...thanx Don......Hoagie

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Oct 97 23:11:22 -0500
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: dist'r speed

Secondly, if the engine is turning 1000 rpm at the crank what is the rpm 
of the distributor? I suppose this is not all that important but I am 
curious.
     

     The distributor is turning at camshaft speed, or half crank speed.
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 09:59:33 -0400 (EDT)
From: fred@sol1.lrsm.upenn.edu (Fred Hellmig)
Subject: drawings

Doug
Mailed you some drawings. I hope it helps.
Fred

- -- 
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Fred Hellmig (KA3NKK)
WORK:                           HOME:
University of Pennsylvania
Building Administrator                822 Anderson Ave.
L.R.S.M. Bld. Room 104                Drexel Hill Pa. 19026
3231 Walnut Street                    610 449-4080
Phila. Pa. 19104
215-898-7793     FAX # 215-898-8296
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 07:06:41 -0700
From: Gary Andresen <gandresen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: 

Robert,

When I was a kid, they called cars like the "Holiday" (without a
center-post
like with 2-door sedans) a "Hardtop Convertible" This is because the
roll-up
side windows were just like the ones on convertibles.  It was in essence
a
hardtop version of a convertible.

They also referred to cars that looked stock, but had "supped-up"
engines
in them as "sleepers" because they looked innocent as they played possum
until
some sucker was fool enough to race them.

I jokingly call my 1955 "88" series Holiday Coupe a 442-Sleeper because
it has
a newly rebuilt balanced and blueprinted 455 in it with MSD ignition,
modified
cam, two four-barrel's, etc. like you would normally be found in a "hot"
4-4-2
of the late '60's or early '70's.

This is definitely not "Your Fathers" Oldsmobile, as they said in the ad
campaign.
It may look like it, but when you are standing at the rear of the car at
idle, you
know that something menacing is under the hood.

Hope this helps.

Gary
====================================================================================
Robert Barry wrote:
> 
> >Subject: Re: The list people and their cars
> >
> >1995 Olds "88" 2-door hardtop convertible (442-Sleeper - 455 Olds engine
> >with TH400, Dual Carter AFB's, MSD, balance& blueprinted, etc.)
> >White & Turquoise
> >Complete restoration, but body not taken off frame
> 
> OK, I give up; what are you talking about?
> 
> A "hardtop convertible"?
> A RWD _1995_ Olds 88?
> A unibody car with a body and frame?
> 
> Or am I missing something here?
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 07:10:43 -0700
From: Gary Andresen <gandresen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: hardtop convertible

When I was a kid, they called cars like the "Holiday" (without a
center-post
like with 2-door sedans) a "Hardtop Convertible" This is because the
roll-up
side windows were just like the ones on convertibles.  It was in essence
a
hardtop version of a convertible.

They also referred to cars that looked stock, but had "supped-up"
engines
in them as "sleepers" because they looked innocent as they play possum
until
some sucker decided to race them.

I jokingly call my 1955 "88" series Holiday Coupe a 442-Sleeper because
it has
a newly rebuilt balanced and blueprinted 455 in it with MSD ignition,
modified
cam, two four-barrel's, etc. like you would normally be found in a "hot"
4-4-2
of the late '60's or early '70's.

This is definitely not "Your Fathers" Oldsmobile, as they said in the ad
campaign.
It may look like it, but when you are standing at the rear of the car at
idle, you
know that something menacing is under the hood.

Hope this helps.

Gary


Patton wrote:
> 
> Whaaaaat ????
> 
>         Just what is a hardtop convertible anyway ?????? And do unibody  cars
> have frames - and how did those dual quads fit in there - and still be a
> sleeper
> 
>                                 The General

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 07:16:57 -0700
From: Gary Andresen <gandresen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: "Hardtop Convertibles"

Wow, I actually got three thread going on my innocent post.

Here is the real "skinny" as they used to say..............

When I was a kid, they called cars like the "Holiday" (without a
center-post
like with 2-door sedans) a "Hardtop Convertible" This is because the
roll-up
side windows were just like the ones on convertibles.  It was in essence
a
hardtop version of a convertible.

They also referred to cars that looked stock, but had "supped-up"
engines
in them as "sleepers" because they looked innocent as they play possum
until
some sucker decided to race them.

I jokingly call my 1955 "88" series Holiday Coupe a 442-Sleeper because
it has
a newly rebuilt balanced and blueprinted 455 in it with MSD ignition,
modified
cam, two four-barrel's, etc. like would normally be found in a "hot"
4-4-2 of
the late '60's or early '70's.

This is definitely not "Your Fathers" Oldsmobile, as they said in the ad
campaign.
It may look like it, but when you are standing at the rear of the car at
idle, you
know that something menacing is under the hood.

Hope this helps.

Gary Andresen

padavano.joe wrote:
> 
> Someone originally wrote:
> 
> >1995 Olds "88" 2-door hardtop convertable (442-Sleeper...)
> 
> Dr. Bob of the multiple .sig files asked:
> 
> OK, I give up; what are you talking about?
> 
> A "hardtop convertible"?
> A RWD _1995_ Olds 88?
> A unibody car with a body and frame?
> 
> Or am I missing something here?
> 
>      To which I answered (after appropriately trimming):
> 
>      I haven't seen a reply from the original poster, but I'd be willing to
>      bet you're missing the typo which makes it a 1965 Olds 88...or perhaps
>      a dyslexic 1959 Olds 88...
> 
>      And in response to the following:
> 
> "Instead of being folder into the boot behind the rear seat, the hardtop
> was hidden in the "trunk: area.  These cars had no trunks when the roof was
> removed."
> 
>      Uh, no, not quite true.  The F*rd Retractable Hardtop actually had a
>      small bin (say, about 3'x 3'x 3') in the trunk into which you could
>      place articles before lowering the top.  The metal roof actually came
>      down around this bin, providing some (if limited) trunk space.
> 
>      Of course, Olds never built one of these, so the mystery remains...
> 
>      Joe Padavano
>      padavano.joe@orbital.com
> 
>      66 442
>      68 W-30
>      69 H/O
>      70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 10:23:47 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Concerning 350's and 455's

I may have said this a million times already, but I'm rebuilding my 350
this winter. It is a 73 model. I'm putting in a milder cam and #6 heads
and an Edelbrock Perf. RPM manifold, along with a new valvetrain.

But, I was also considering finding a 455, and since we'll have to pull
the engine out of the Cutlass anyhow, why not just get a junkyard engine
that's already free of it's car and build that. I know I don't want
anything from 73-up. I hear they suck unless you get different heads,
but it might come to that.

I need help, should I stick with the 350, only 46,000+ miles, or should
I find a relatively good 455?

ALL HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!!

Thanx!
- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 09:45:53 -0500
From: Flipper <phillil@redoak.heartland.net>
Subject: Re: VIN Number

>The number is 384676MI86448.  
>
>     3 = Oldsmobile Division
>     84 = Ninety Eight Series
>     67 = Convertible
>     6 = 1966
>     M = Built in Lansing
>     186448 = Sequential build number (note that's a "1", not an "I")


OK, time for dumb questions:

1.)  Where do you find the above information?  
2.)  Is it available on the internet?
3.)  If it is available in book form, is it by year, by make, by model,???
4.)  Is there different books for different tags?  VIN vs. COWL


Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Please send private, as my dumb
questions should not waste everyone's bandwidth.  TIA.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 09:51:27 -0500
From: Flipper <phillil@redoak.heartland.net>
Subject: Build Sheet

OK, I should have waited before I sent the other e-mail.

Where do you find the Build Sheet(s) everyone is talking about?
What information is given on the Build Sheet?
Is it only specific to that particular vehicle? (read below to see why I ask
why)

I have heard people, at car shows, talking about making twenty copies of
build sheets to give out when they sell their multiple collection, even
though it is the same build sheet.

Again, your help would be greatly appreciated.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 11:09:11 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: speaker ohm question?

Alternately, you could run 2-4 ohm speakers in series giving you an 8 ohm 
load.>


Ahh Hah, that's right!  I forgot and didn't even think of that.  Running 
the speakers in series would bring 4 ohm speakers to 8.

Thanks

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 11:13:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Sway Bars

jason, where is down here, what state are you talking about,   steven.
w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 11:45:03 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: curving the distribitor?

>I'd recommend something like the Crane kit; follow its instructions, and
>you'll likely be happier with how the engine runs afterwards.> 

Thanks Doc, I will.  Even if I have bad luck with the crane kit, it will be a 
learning experience anyway!  I didn't even know "curving a distributor" 
existed until my friend mentioned it this summer.

My car seems to lack little performance.  IT "knocks" when under a heavy 
load.  Such as when I'm doing 45 and floor it.  I know, I know, the timing.  
I played with the timing till the cows came home.  I'm convinced there's a 
distributor problem, (needs to be curved), or perhaps my vacuum advance is 
bad.  I moved that damn timing mark, triple checked the dwell more times than 
I would care to remember.

Just for good measure, I'm going to have the carb rebuilt this winter.  I 
can't seem to get "normal" reactions to my adjustments.  The guy I bought it 
from really didn't drive it enough.  So need it or not, the carb will be 
rebuilt.  I know this guy that's a carb guru, especially Q-jets.  For a $130. 
I'll at least have piece of mind about the carb.  I realize a do-it-yourself 
rebuilt kit is much cheaper, but carbs and I don't get along!  I'll pay the 
$130.  

The engine runs great other than that, really.  I previous owner put the 
following cam in :(

Gross valve lift  .490
Duration at .006 tappet lift 280
    "    at .050 230
lobe lift .3063
lobe separation 110

What do you think, yank this baby out when rebuilding time comes and put in a 
"stock" cam?  I don't know what I'm talking about, but I have a gut feeling 
part of my performance problem might be that "high school cam fever".  

You know, just put in a bigger cam and your car will be faster!?!  What do 
you think?

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 10:40:26 -0500
From: Shang <shoover@flash.net>
Subject: Test - Can anyone else see this?

Can anyone see this?

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 11:59:17 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: Build Sheet

>Where do you find the Build Sheet(s) everyone is talking about?>What 
information is given on the Build Sheet?
>Is it only specific to that particular vehicle?>


They can be anywhere a auto line worker might have stuck them.  Popular 
places are; above the gas tank, in door panels, under the back seat, under 
the front seats, under the seat backs, under the dash, under the console, 
under the carpet and so on and so on...

The build sheet, (approx. 8-1/2" x 5" in size), tells info about options an 
other interior related things.

Yes, each car has it's own build sheet.  A "birth certificate" if you will.  
(I stole that one from somebody on the list)  :)

The window sicker and build sheet are the only things missing for my car!  Of 
course build sheets are easier to find if you actually look for them!  Which 
I haven't done yet..., this winter for sure.  I even have a picture of my car 
new on the dealer lot parked right next to the showroom!  But no build sheet 
as of yet. <sniff> 

Hope this helps.

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 11:47:25 -0400 (EDT)
From: GPMTRADER@aol.com
Subject: Re: Test - Can anyone else see this?

I can see it...but what am I supposed to see?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 10:43:14 -0000
From: "kenbacon" <kenbacon@sheltonbbs.com>
Subject: Re: Test - Can anyone else see this?

I  can see it!

Ken Bacon
Dexter, MO
1991 Cutlass Calais International
1979 CJ5


- ----------
> From: Shang <shoover@flash.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Test - Can anyone else see this?
> Date: Sunday, October 12, 1997 3:40 PM
> 
> Can anyone see this?
> 
> Stephen Hoover
> Dallas, Texas
> '70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 12:18:29 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: VIN Number, how to find

>OK, time for dumb questions:
>
>1.)  Where do you find the above information?  
>2.)  Is it available on the internet?
>3.)  If it is available in book form, is it by year, by make, by model,???
>4.)  Is there different books for different tags?  VIN vs. COWL>


BOOKS!  There are many ID books that reference car numbers.  The one I have 
is;  "Catalog of Oldsmobile 4-4-2, W-Machines & Hurst/Olds ID Numbers 
1964-91".  From "Cars & Parts Magazine", ($10.00).  You should be able to 
find one of these books at one of the larger parts suppliers, (such as year 
one, brothers, etc.).  Or you always see them at swap meets.  Perhaps even 
a larger book store or restore shop might have them.

If you are into cars with "matching numbers" or just want to decipher the 
body and vin tags, get one of these books!  They make these books for most 
older cars, mopars, fords, trucks, etc...  Well worth the minor investment!




>Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Please send private, as my dumb
>questions should not waste everyone's bandwidth.>>

Hey, it's not a "dumb question"!  That's why this list exists!  And as for 
the bandwidth, the reason all of us keep "preaching" about saving it, is 
for questions such as yours.  I'm posting my response to the list in case 
someone else out there has your same question but might not feel 
comfortable asking it.

Hope this helps!

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.  
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 12:21:51 -0400
From: mrhell@m1.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: Test - Can anyone else see this?

Roger,...come in, come in...I read you over, <RC starts turning knobs 
and adjusting his "e-mail receiver">.  :)

Yes, your sent mail made it.

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 10:41:30 -0700
From: Eric Aksomitis <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Steering Column Fixed, FYI

I just got my steering column fixed, the lower U-joint was loose.  I
remember a while back their was some inquiries as to what this might
cost.  I had planned to do it myself, but I have no time and since I
drive the car, I'd have to do it consecutively, so I got it done here at
my home, Qu'Appelle.  At any rate, long story short, the cost was $43.78
Canadian, far cheaper than I was expecting.  I believe I got charged 1
1/2 hours labour, so It turned out to be economical.  Just for the
record, what something might that cost

BTW. the car is a 72 98
- -- 
- -------------Self Promo V3.0--------------------------
Eric Aksomitis  http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi
mailto:big_olds@hotmail.com   See it all, click above
- ------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 12:44:01 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Concerning 350's and 455's

I wrote:
> 
> 
> But, I was also considering finding a 455, and since we'll have to pull
> the engine out of the Cutlass anyhow, why not just get a junkyard engine

Of course, I'd also have to swap tranny's too right? I'd need a th400?

- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 12:51:21 -0400
From: "Adcock, Jason K." <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: 455 rocket

AllNiteLng@aol.com wrote:
>        My '66 Delta 88 has the man. to man crossover pipe with single exhaust

- --What?-- oh, yeah.  It's my turn.  One of my friends has a 66 Dynamic 88
with the 425 (that's a big block, right?) with single exhaust.

- -- 
Jason K. Adcock
jadcock@vt.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 12:54:23 -0400
From: "Adcock, Jason K." <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Build Sheet

mrhell@m1.sprynet.com wrote:

> They can be anywhere a auto line worker might have stuck them.  Popular
> places are; above the gas tank, in door panels, under the back seat, under
> the front seats, under the seat backs, under the dash, under the console,
> under the carpet and so on and so on...

I read (from this list, of course :-) that build sheets might not even be
on the car.  The line worker might have put them in his (or her :-) pocket
or thrown it away, etc.  I have the window sticker for mine, but no build
sheet.  They've also been found above the headliner.

- -- 
Jason K. Adcock
jadcock@vt.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 12:56:35 -0400
From: "Adcock, Jason K." <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Dual-Snorkel Air Cleaner

Mike Rothe wrote:
> Yep.  Standard on 83/84 H/O and 85-87 442.  It is the same as the normal
> "Y" code engine air cleaner, however it has a stubby snorkel 180 degrees
> from the front one.  It does have its own therm-ac unit though.  And oh
> yes, a chrome lid.

Did they also have pipe to an air box(es) in the front grill?  Also, what
is its own therm-ac unit?  Does that mean that both snorkels have a heat
stove connection?  Thanks.

- -- 
Jason K. Adcock
jadcock@vt.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 12:01:07 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Automatic Trainy ID, FYI

I have a little to much time on my hands lately, so, thought I might 
help a few people out with some Ascii art and help people Identify 
what kind of trainy is in there car by looking at the trainy pan. 
Here goes...

/-----------\
I            \
I              \
I             /
I            I
- --\         /
   --------
   TH-400

 -------
I      I
I      \
I       I
I       I
- ---------
Powerglide

- --\_____/--
I         I
I         I
I        /
- --------

 TH-200
 
 -------------
 I           I
 I           I
 I          /
 I        /
 --------

 TH-350
 
- -------------------------------------------------------
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
- -------------------------------------------------------
"Every man dies...not every man really gets a chance to live"

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 13:04:05 -0400
From: "Adcock, Jason K." <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Sway Bars

Charley Buehner wrote:

> I'd recommend swapping the end links at the very least, though.  While
> you have it apart, it's the best time to do it.  They aren't that much
> $$$, and they have something of a habit of being worn out...

My pass. side end link broke and I replaced it with factory GM parts.  I
couldn't believe the difference this part made!  The car felt like it was
glued to the pavement!  I then thought that I had to have that bushing
set.  And I've certainly got no regrets!

- -- 
Jason K. Adcock
jadcock@vt.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 13:06:18 -0400
From: "Adcock, Jason K." <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Sway Bars

I assume you're talking to me, since Jason L. has his location in his sig.
(Note to self: put your location in sig file...*click*).  I live in
Blacksburg, VA, about 15 miles from I-81, exit 118 (118 miles north of the
VA-TN border).

W30442CS@aol.com wrote:
> 
> jason, where is down here, what state are you talking about,   steven.
> w30442cs@aol.com

- -- 
Jason K. Adcock
jadcock@vt.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 13:09:17 PDT
From: "John Stolarski" <oldscs350@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Dual-Snorkel Air Cleaner (Ram Air)

Jason,
I've had the same idea as you for installing a homemade air induction 
system into the bumper of my G-body...But if you rally think about it, 
its more trouble than its worth. You'd have to go under th radiator 
because there is no other way to get a  set of hoses from the boxes to 
the cleaner. Another thing is, I have afriend who did something similar 
w/ a mustang, and he said because the inlets were so low, it picked up 
WAY to much water and dirt from the road...so what I would like to do 
later on is put in a Ch*velle type hood with Cowl Induction...just a 
thought...oh, and you are right, a dual snorkel has 2 heat stove units 
coming in to it...
$.02
John

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 13:14:31 PDT
From: "John Stolarski" <oldscs350@hotmail.com>
Subject: Which year 350 is best?

OK, as some of you know...I am saving to try and turn my '86 Cutlass 
into a Mustang killer...anyway, what year 350 is the best, I've heard 
many7 different things from Early 70's to I'd have to get a post '73 for 
emissions components to hook up. So...I ask you all the question...what 
year should I try to get so I can still drive legal, and have a good bit 
of horsepower out of it...while I', at it, are there heads that are 
better than 5A heads (stupid question I'm sure) for a s/b? Still 
learning...
John

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 13:17:32 PDT
From: "John Stolarski" <oldscs350@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Dual-Snorkel Air Cleaner (Ram Air)

Please excuse my spelling in my last message...Huk'd un Phonix Wurk'd 
fur me! 

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 16:17:48 -0400 (EDT)
From: Lmcmcsc@aol.com
Subject: rear seal

I"m rebuilding a 69 400 olds the rear main seal i got in the gasket set is a
rope type.    which i recd 4 pieces 2 of each size. What i took out of the
engine seems to be a rubber type seal is this correct and how do i install
these rope type seals 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 16:21:02 -0400
From: "Adcock, Jason K." <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Dual-Snorkel Air Cleaner (Ram Air)

John Stolarski wrote:
>
> Jason,
> I've had the same idea as you for installing a homemade air induction
> system into the bumper of my G-body...But if you rally think about it,
> its more trouble than its worth. You'd have to go under th radiator

Yep, I looked at the car today and saw just how cramped it is under there. 
They really crammed the 307 in there!  I think I'd be better off to get a
stock air box and a stock hose to connect it up.  I probably haven't told
anyone this, but the reason I was thinking of doing this is when I got the
car two years ago, the air box was sitting between the power steering box
and power steering pulley.  Actually, it was "into" the pulley.  Somehow,
the box fell into the belt and a "path" was vut into it by the belt and it
was sitting there when I got it.  The hose was pretty mangled, too, so I
just threw the whole assembly out.  When I was yarding this weekend, I saw
a box and hose on a wagon, I think, so I'll go back tomorrow and grab it. 
I'd still be interested in what Olds did with the second snorkel (the
passenger side).  Did they pipe an air hose somewhere, or just let the
snorkel grab air out of the engine compartment?  Thanks, y'all.

- -- 
Jason K. Adcock
jadcock@vt.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 16:30:48 -0400 (EDT)
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: Re: rear seal

Funny you should mention that, but am rebuilding a 455 now and 
have that the rubber seal that you speak of is what Mondello uses instead 
of the rope type.

Of real interest is the fact that these rear main seals have a F*RD part
number on them. I'm trying to track that number back now, as my 
motor guy feels that the rubber type is a better unit.  Ol' JM  charged 
me $15 for this little ol' F*RD part...

CoupeKing

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 17:03:35 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <grpruett@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: rear seal

COUPEKING@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Of real interest is the fact that these rear main seals have a F*RD part
> number on them. I'm trying to track that number back now, as my
> motor guy feels that the rubber type is a better unit.  Ol' JM  charged
> me $15 for this little ol' F*RD part...

Um, I think that's a 460(?) f*rd engine the seal is made for.  The FAQ
should have more info. 

Greg Pruett
`72 Vista Cruiser
`67 Cutlass Supreme
`80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 17:42:11 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Dual-Snorkel Air Cleaner (Ram Air)

> I'd still be interested in what Olds did with the second snorkel (the
> passenger side).  Did they pipe an air hose somewhere, or just let the
> snorkel grab air out of the engine compartment?  Thanks, y'all.
 
It just hung out there, sucking air from the engine compartment.  It's
only about 5-6" long, not much.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 16:11:05 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: FS:1980 Olds Cutlass Supreme (fwd)

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
> 
> Anyone see this? Thought it might be of interest to someone...
> 

>  As most of you know, the 80 and 81 Cutlass Diesel had an aluminum
> hood,

Is this true?  I'd never heard this before...
- -- 
    
             Charley Buehner       | mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
             Box 524               | mailto:charley@rocketship.com
             Sidney, Montana 59270 | http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
             "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 425
             "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
	     "TRBO LVR" (Maybe???:)| '83 Turbo Regal
               	     Real Cars ~Don't~ Wear Bowties!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 18:29:48 -0400
From: Kelly Leblanc <kaleblanc@snet.net>
Subject: Oldsmoble

I myself own a 1989 Cutlass "Phantom",1 of 200 put together in East
Hartford Conn.And I beleive sold only in Conn. and Mass.(I could be
wrong) Have only seen 2 others like it and almost jump on the guy
driving the first one thinking it was mine...oops!
But love the car and plan on keeping it for quite awhile.
Art Filek
Kaleblanc@snet.com

writing it from Windham Conn.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 15:34:58 -0700
From: Brad Bowles <wolds@napanet.net>
Subject: READ ME...questioning authority

This list is designed to share information about the hobby of
collecting Oldsmobiles.  The information is based on experience and on
facts.  But when I get several different answers from the same question,
It makes me wonder who is correct.
	This first happenend when I asked if I could run 275/60r15 on a SSII
15X7" rim in the rear.  Many people said that the tire just wouldn't
fit, or that it would take up too much room.  Well I ordered the tires
on a hunch, and low-and-behold, they fit!  Amazing!  And not only do
they fit, but they fit all the way through the suspension travel!  Go
figure.
	Now I am looking for advice on my differential.  Like everyone else,
I'd like to replace the open rear end with posi/limited slip.  According
to the list, my differential has 8.5" ring gear, 28 spline axles, and is
a 10 bolt.  But for some reason that I have yet to experience, a late
model GM 10 bolt won't bolt up.  I have been told that a LockRight
differential will fit.  I was also just told that my differential is now
8.2", therefore contradicting the previous information that I was
given.  
	This leads me to believe that we need to things...
1.  Confidence in the advice that we are giving and are given
2.  A spec list on differentials and their compatability
	Thank you for those of you who have read this.
Brad
70 442

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 18:40:12 -0500 (EST)
From: FERRERO@uno.cc.geneseo.edu
Subject: Re: New & Used pre 39  parts

hey david,   i am interested in parts.  I have a 47 and a 48 olds and 
many parts would interchange across the years.  if anyone has parts for 
these oldsmobiles e-mail me at

ferrero@uno.cc.geneseo.edu

thanks

- --joe

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #900
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