To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #978


oldsmobile-digest     Saturday, November 29 1997     Volume 01 : Number 978



Re: Stroking an Olds?
'56 Olds breather tube question
Fw: Indy Pace Car or Not ?
UNBOUNCE: Indy Pace Car or Not ?
Re: 1971 Cutlass, Intro and asking for pictures
Re: It wants to follow me home
Re: ADMIN-Small suggestion-No flack please
Olds newsletter
Re: ADMIN-Small suggestion-No flack please
Parting 72 and 68 Deltas (fwd)
value
Re: UNBOUNCE: Conv. Top Switch
Re: Chrome Bumpers
Re: q4 and 64-72 442's
73 turn signal problem solved
Re: value
Mondello 350DX (diesel to gas) stroker motor parts for sale!
Re: UNBOUNCE: Conv. Top Switch
Re: Oldsmobiles Available-'69 Toro
Re: Speedometer Gear
Re: the great 442 controversy
Re: fastest Olds
Delta problems
Re: Olds 445 cams
Re: Delta problems
Re: Oldsmobiles Available-'69 Toro
1969 98 conv. for parts
G-Body Interior Questions
Rearend measurements and door weatherstripping
Re: Speedometer Gear
Re: ADMIN-Small suggestion-No flack please
Re: fastest Olds
Olds Rockets and Stangs..........
Re: Mobil 1
Re: Olds Rockets and Stangs..........
455 cid small block
$250 D88
68 Power front antenna
M-parts f/sale
ADMIN: Buying Parts via the List
list tone
dyno making?
Ch*vy comments
EGR fallacy to rest
Re: Gold - True color?
55, later trans
stroker?
Re: 72 cutlass exhaust tips
Re: Brakes :(

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Nov 1997 15:18:02 -0500 (EST)
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stroking an Olds?

hey, i heard of a guy around here who is putting 455 cranks in 403 blocks!!!
 he is shaving down the mains on the crank so it will fit.  says its the
equivilant of a 511, or something!!!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Nov 1997 22:08:31 +0100
From: Roland Klinger <Roland.Klinger@bonn.netsurf.de>
Subject: '56 Olds breather tube question

Hello all Olds crankcase pressure specialists!

Some weeks ago we discussed my "lacking breather tube" problem. One member
of the list was very friendly enough to get me a breather tube from a junk
yard near Atlanta and sent it to Germany.

Many thanks Eric!

Now there is lacking the metal cylinder (with a little more piece of a
tube) at the bottom of that tube. It was fixed at the tube with a kind of a
clamb with a srew.

My questions: will the system work without this cylinder (I suppose filled
with some sort of a metal wool)
or did this cylinder take care of correct pressure and therefore system
will NOT work corrctly without it?

Does this cylinder have special holes in it or would it be easy to build one.

Would other years (or even makes) cylinders fit too and does somebody
eventually have one in his surplus?

A lot of questions but I'm sure after the experiences from the last years
that I'll find a help here.

Thanks a lot, Roland Klinger, Niederkassel, Germany

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Nov 97 04:52:42 PST
From: "Luke Hogan" <hogan442@c-gate.net>
Subject: Fw: Indy Pace Car or Not ?

- ----------
> Date: Friday, November 28, 1997 02:38:47
> From: hogan442
> To: "Olds Mail" <Olds Mail>
> Subject: Indy Pace Car or Not ?
>
>       Hi, everybody
>             I got a tip about a 1972
> Hurst/Olds from a freind  about a month ago, so i get all worked-up as
> usual jump in the car & fly over there, to find a "72 Hurst w/elec.
sunroof
> setting out in the elements  rusting away" !! That alone made me wont to
> rescue it or kick the living daylights out of the owner.     Okay that's
> enough . My question is how can i tell if it is a official pace car? The
> owner said that he bought the car from a museum in Nashville, Tn. & that
it
> was a official pace car but the museum had painted it before putting it on
> display for 14yrs.  I wrote down the vin.ª 3J57U2M199433
> 1st. digit - Division, 3= Olds
>                       2nd. digit-
> Series, J= Cutlass Supreme
>      3rd. &4th. digti-Body
> Style,57= 2dr. hardtop coupe
> 5th.digit - Engine
> Code, U = 455 - 4bbl. V8 250 hp. ( Dual Exh.)
>
> 6th. digit - Model Year, 2 = 1972
>                7th. digit -
> Assy. Plant, M = Lansing, Mi.
>         Last 6 digits -
> Prod. ª Sequence 199433
>
>
>            Okay, I know Everybody knew this info. I also  wrote down the
> Cowl Tag ª                       ST72         34257LAN4194401 BDY
>
>    TR 970 -
>                       1111 PNT
>
>   03D   A51      W45

>                         Now this is where i need a little h*lp
>
> ST72= Standed 1972            3= Olds ?  42= ?
>  57= 2dr. hardtop
> coupe    LAN.= Lansing,Mi.  419401=?        TR 970 =TRIM (970?)    1111PNT
> = (1111?) Paint    03=March    D = The 4th week of the
> month A51=?
>       W45=?
>
>           The car is painted just like the regular 72 Hurst/Olds are,
> meaning it don't have the official pace car lettering & eagle on the
> outside, But it does have a opace car tag on the glovebox.

>          Thanks  in advance for the the h*lp identifing this car in need
of
> rescuing. Luke

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Nov 1997 19:15:45 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Indy Pace Car or Not ?

Not sure if Luke is on the list, so perhaps you should c.c. any response
to him directly...

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:"Luke Hogan" <hogan442@c-gate.net>
Subject: Fw: Indy Pace Car or Not ?

>
>       Hi, everybody
>             I got a tip about a 1972
> Hurst/Olds from a freind  about a month ago, so i get all worked-up as
> usual jump in the car & fly over there, to find a "72 Hurst w/elec.
sunroof
> setting out in the elements  rusting away" !! That alone made me wont to
> rescue it or kick the living daylights out of the owner.     Okay that's
> enough . My question is how can i tell if it is a official pace car? The
> owner said that he bought the car from a museum in Nashville, Tn. & that
it
> was a official pace car but the museum had painted it before putting it on
> display for 14yrs.  I wrote down the vin.ª 3J57U2M199433
> 1st. digit - Division, 3= Olds
>                       2nd. digit-
> Series, J= Cutlass Supreme
>      3rd. &4th. digti-Body
> Style,57= 2dr. hardtop coupe
> 5th.digit - Engine
> Code, U = 455 - 4bbl. V8 250 hp. ( Dual Exh.)
>
> 6th. digit - Model Year, 2 = 1972
>                7th. digit -
> Assy. Plant, M = Lansing, Mi.
>         Last 6 digits -
> Prod. ª Sequence 199433
>
>
>            Okay, I know Everybody knew this info. I also  wrote down the
> Cowl Tag ª                       ST72         34257LAN4194401 BDY
>
>    TR 970 -
>                       1111 PNT
>
>   03D   A51      W45

>                         Now this is where i need a little h*lp
>
> ST72= Standed 1972            3= Olds ?  42= ?
>  57= 2dr. hardtop
> coupe    LAN.= Lansing,Mi.  419401=?        TR 970 =TRIM (970?)    1111PNT
> = (1111?) Paint    03=March    D = The 4th week of the
> month A51=?
>       W45=?
>
>           The car is painted just like the regular 72 Hurst/Olds are,
> meaning it don't have the official pace car lettering & eagle on the
> outside, But it does have a opace car tag on the glovebox.

>          Thanks  in advance for the the h*lp identifing this car in need
of
> rescuing. Luke

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Nov 1997 18:12:17 -0800
From: Boogah Wolfe <boogah@en.com>
Subject: Re: 1971 Cutlass, Intro and asking for pictures

Eric.Aksomitis@swp.com wrote:
>
> Hello, again Oldsmobile List.  I have been here before (aksomi@cs.uregina.ca
> , big_olds@hotmail.com)  but have signed off for time constraints...
>
> Then, this week, I went and picked up my free 1971 Cutlass two door.
>
> The car is motorless, and needs brakes and a lot of minor work.  The
> autobody was started on it years ago and left, so it NEEDS paint.
>
> Although I'll have many questions to ask when I get it in the shop to work
> on it, first I want to decide on a colour for it.  It's got a light brown
>  -type colour interior, so Yellow would be my preference.  Since pseudo-wife
> likes the car, I want to get it painted an agreeable colour to us both!!
>
> What I want is pictures of (or URL's that point to them) any car in this
> body style with any colour combination, preferably yellow or yellow with a
> black stripe down the middle.
>
> If you have pictures at home, but not ones on-line, I would ask that you
> please get them scanned somewhere if you can.
>
> Thanx a million, and BTW, please reply with a CC to Eric.Aksomitis@swp.com
> as I am on digest and could miss your reply.
>
>  -----------
> Eric Aksomitis
> 1972 98
> 1975 Cutlass
> 1971 Cutlass in progress...
>
> http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/
>
>  -----------
Eric:

I had a 1971 Cutlass "S" 2 door about 10 years ago.  It was a beautiful
automobile.  I am in the progress of developing a web page dedicated to
1970-1972 Cutlass and Cutlass Supremes and am looking for my pictures of
that car.  Will let you know when I find them.  Good luck....

Joe
72 Cutlass Supreme
62111 miles

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Nov 1997 19:23:12 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: It wants to follow me home

A '41 sedan in that kind of condition and with that documentation sounds
like a fun project. But make sure it's mostly all there... kinda hard to
order up a catalog from Year One for one of them!

Last year a fellow here found a '47 Olds sedan in much the same
condition. The engine was stuck initially, but he was able to unstick it
with copious amounts of trans fluid in the cylinders and the thing
eventually ran quite well. Hope you're as lucky! Any indication of the
engine's condition? Prospects of a total rebuild might help convince the
seller to reduce the price tag a bit.

Having seen a bunch of '41s at Lansing I think it would be nice to keep
one of these around. Sure a lot better looking than the '42s that
followed IMHO. Not quite as cool as the '40 models with that neat art
deco "OLDS" badge on the grill, but a good-looking car all the same.

If you've got the time, money and facilities, and understand that
something like this is almost certainly a hobby car, not something you
could drive very often, then I'd say do it!

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Nov 1997 19:26:47 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: ADMIN-Small suggestion-No flack please

Not a bad suggestion, but I don't have the ability to do a webring
either. However, I recall a fellow named Richard Welty who maintained a
list of automotive mailing lists like this one and he has a web page as I
recall. He also used to post the list of lists to the rec.autos.*
newsgroups periodically. I know he did this because I registered this
list with him.

I think an AltaVista search on either "Richard Welty" or "automotive
mailing lists" would turn up a few hits.


Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Nov 1997 17:29:09 -0600
From: "babbott@pdnt.com" <babbott@pdnt.com>
Subject: Olds newsletter

Oldsmobile today, a newsletter that goes to Olds dealers all over the
world. Published Greg Beaulieu's e-mail letter to olds about the centennial
celebration. They also published one from Dave Wyatt and I'm sure other
list members who I did not recognize. If you were one of them, send me a
self addressed envelope and I'll send you the newsletter. Act fast I only
have three or four.
Eric Phillips
708 E. Wilson, Tuscola,IL 61953
babbott@pdnt.com

- ----------
> From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
> To: Oldsmobile <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: UNBOUNCE: Indy Pace Car or Not ?
> Date: Friday, November 28, 1997 5:15 PM
>
> Not sure if Luke is on the list, so perhaps you should c.c. any response
> to him directly...
>
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From:"Luke Hogan" <hogan442@c-gate.net>
> Subject: Fw: Indy Pace Car or Not ?
>
> >
> >       Hi, everybody
> >             I got a tip about a 1972
> > Hurst/Olds from a freind  about a month ago, so i get all worked-up as
> > usual jump in the car & fly over there, to find a "72 Hurst w/elec.
> sunroof
> > setting out in the elements  rusting away" !! That alone made me wont
to
> > rescue it or kick the living daylights out of the owner.     Okay
that's
> > enough . My question is how can i tell if it is a official pace car?
The
> > owner said that he bought the car from a museum in Nashville, Tn. &
that
> it
> > was a official pace car but the museum had painted it before putting it
on
> > display for 14yrs.  I wrote down the vin.ª 3J57U2M199433

> > 1st. digit - Division, 3= Olds
> >                       2nd. digit-
> > Series, J= Cutlass Supreme
> >      3rd. &4th. digti-Body
> > Style,57= 2dr. hardtop coupe
> > 5th.digit - Engine
> > Code, U = 455 - 4bbl. V8 250 hp. ( Dual Exh.)
> >
> > 6th. digit - Model Year, 2 = 1972
> >                7th. digit -
> > Assy. Plant, M = Lansing, Mi.
> >         Last 6 digits -
> > Prod. ª Sequence 199433
> >
> >
> >            Okay, I know Everybody knew this info. I also  wrote down
the
> > Cowl Tag ª                       ST72         34257LAN4194401 BDY
> >
> >    TR 970 -
> >                       1111 PNT
> >
> >   03D   A51      W45

>
> >                         Now this is where i need a little h*lp
> >
> > ST72= Standed 1972            3= Olds ?  42= ?
> >  57= 2dr. hardtop
> > coupe    LAN.= Lansing,Mi.  419401=?        TR 970 =TRIM (970?)
1111PNT
> > = (1111?) Paint    03=March    D = The 4th week of the
> > month A51=?
> >       W45=?
> >
> >           The car is painted just like the regular 72 Hurst/Olds are,
> > meaning it don't have the official pace car lettering & eagle on the
> > outside, But it does have a opace car tag on the glovebox.

>
> >          Thanks  in advance for the the h*lp identifing this car in
need
> of
> > rescuing. Luke
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Nov 1997 18:39:32 -0500
From: "MROTHE" <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: ADMIN-Small suggestion-No flack please

> Comments of a constructive nature
> can be emailed direct to me if desired.  Other comments I can do
> without.  Thank you for your time.

Firey words should be left burning on the tongue.  No flack?  geez Don!  I
thought the only reason that God made the other makes is so the scrap yards
could make a living! ;^)

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Nov 1997 19:48:00 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Parting 72 and 68 Deltas (fwd)

Found this on the newsgroups... contact Jake directly if you need anything.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: "Z. J. Jakop" <jjakop@nrcan.gc.ca>
Subject: 72 and 68 Deltas

I am parting out a 1972 and 1968 Delta 88,  these are both good parts cars.
 The 72 is less drive line and the 68 is incorrect.  But interior parts,
trim, lenses etc. are all too good to have these cars crushed.

Email Jake if interested at jjakop@nrcan.gc.ca

- --
Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Nov 1997 16:20:44 -0800
From: "Richard E. Hart" <rehartsr@oregontrail.net>
Subject: value

I have a 71 cutlass missing front fenders, and a 7s cutlass front end with
the louvered hood.  do you have a suggestion on what I should ask for it as
a parts car.  Has the typical rust spot on the front fenders.

Thanx, Rick

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Nov 1997 20:21:46 -0800
From: "David, Terri and Rob" <hoagie@emeraldis.com>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Conv. Top Switch

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>
> Not a list member, so reply directly to him...
>
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From:   PSROACH442 <PSROACH442@aol.com>
> Date:   Thu, 6 Nov 1997 20:03:45 EST
> To:     oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Power Top Switch ratings
>
> I have a 1969 4-4-2 with a bad convertible top switch. Does anyone know where
> I can get a replacement? I would also like to know the current draw for the
> top.
>                             Thanks,
>
>                                      psroach442@aol.com


these switches are a bear to find I can assure you of that...best thing
to do is take the switch outta the dash and take it apart and use fine
emery cloth and some contact cleaner and clean up the copper contacts
inside...I did just that to my 70 SX convertible......Hoagie


70 SX convertible
71 442 W-30 convertible
71 442 spors coupe
71 Monte Carlo
69 Camaro RS
97 Camaro Z28

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Nov 1997 20:23:04 -0500 (EST)
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Chrome Bumpers

'68 442 rear bumper $220+16 UPS

Peter

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Nov 1997 20:26:53 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Re: q4 and 64-72 442's

> Sure factory 4 cyl's can't produce those power numbers, but has anyone
> seen what a modified 2.2L 4cyl Mitsubishi can run in the 1/4? Try 10.98
> @ 128. My friend races his 91 Eagle Talon at a local track here and

        Ever seen what a modified GM V8 can pull an F-body to?  Try 7.4 seconds
at 190mph (Annette Summer's '68 Camero 648) and faster in some cases.  No 
matter
what you do to one you can always do to the other, the difference being that
with a V8 you have twice as much to work with...I will always stand by the old
adage "There's no replacement for displacement".  As for the street driven 
part,
I've been at the local drag strip when 2 Ford guys were up at bat - one with a
trailer queen, the other drove in - the guy that drove there took the win the
whole night - 9 something he ran.  And this drag strip ain't exact a trip 
around
the block for anybody (about a half hour from civilization in all directions).
And look at your Impala - you and I both know that if there WAS a 4-cyl that
could pull a car of that weight to those kinda times either you wouldn't be 
able
to afford to own it, or you wouldn't be able to keep it together for more than 
a
run or two.  I apologize if I sound agressive here - reading over what I've
wrote I suppose it isn't EXACTLY how I feel - I respect any sleeper, even the
little ones, but for serious performance I just could never see myself spending
a lot of time/money on a 4-cyl.

> Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com) Akron, OH
> 95 Impala SS...14.66 @ 95.5 and weighs 4400lbs



> 1987 Buick Grand National (Charley will approve I think). It is amazing
> the power those cars have...no wonder they rule the street/strip and
> were voted ª2 Muscle Car in the Chevy Craft top ª100. Boost is good!

        Speaking of turbos, has anybody ever seen or heard of a 455 on turbo or
even twin turbo to know what it'll do?  I've heard that some pretty amazing
figures are possible with boosted BigBlocks. - -- Trevor Lee (aka Screech),
Owner - TL Tech Rat-Powered '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/ mailto:lee@mergetel.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Nov 1997 20:51:46 -0500 (EST)
From: DrkSole@aol.com
Subject: 73 turn signal problem solved

Finally fixed the turn signals.. seems part of the contector to the
anit-dieseling soleidnoid was touching the alternator bracket, put some tape
on it, and haven't had any problems since..
Thanks for all the help.


DrkSole
73 Cutlass Supreme
67 Delta 88 Custom

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Nov 1997 18:05:44 -0800
From: "Richard E. Hart" <rehartsr@oregontrail.net>
Subject: Re: value

Man, you think I could at least get the number 70 correct!

(7s below should be 70)  Sorry!!

- ----------
> From: Richard E. Hart <rehartsr@oregontrail.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: value
> Date: Friday, November 28, 1997 4:20 PM
>
> I have a 71 cutlass missing front fenders, and a 7s cutlass front end
with
> the louvered hood.  do you have a suggestion on what I should ask for it
as
> a parts car.  Has the typical rust spot on the front fenders.
>
> Thanx, Rick

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Nov 1997 21:16:20 -0500
From: "DREW RACING" <drewracn@gte.net>
Subject: Mondello 350DX (diesel to gas) stroker motor parts for sale!

 Fellow Oldsmobile gearheads, I have quite a few new, never used Mondello
parts for sale.  These parts were purchased to convert an Oldsmobile Diesel
350 to Gas.  I intended to stroke the engine to 440 or 454 cubic inches,
but decided to go another route.  Time to deal!  Make an offer.  Here is
what I have:

Mondello ª8020 Fully-prepared, ground, polished, shot-peened, chromolly
bolts, resized, narrowed, pin fitted, bronze-bushed, forged-steel
connecting rods.  Set of 8 rods.  Nice stuff!

Mondello ªHS-375 Chromolly head stud kit for the 350 diesel block.
Includes studs, nuts and washers.  Set of 20.

Mondello ªST-940 Chromolly main cap support straps for ª's 2, 3 and 4 main
bearing caps.  Strengthens main caps and eliminates main cap walking,
resulting in longer main bearing life.  Fits 400, 425 and 455 engines
without machining.  On 260 through 403 engines, caps must be machined flat
to accept straps.  Kit includes straps, chromolly main studs, nuts and
washers.  When using No. CT-850 full-length windage tray, .500 must be
machined off top of ª's 2 and 4 main caps.

Mondello ªOP-800 8-quart, low-profile, large-capacity, street-strip,
performance oil pan.  Pan is 2" lower than stock pans and has good ground
clearance on most applications.  Fits all Oldsmobile V-8's according to
Mondello.

Mondello ªSP-785 High-performance oil pump with 3/4", welded, 2" drop
pickup tube for use with ªOP-800 street-strip oil pan.  Pump is blueprinted
and uses the special, dual bypass spring.

Mondello ªR-100 Oil gallery restrictor kit.  Reduces oil supply to top end
of the engine.  Set of 3.  These are recommended for use with the above oil
pan and pump.

Moroso ª38350 Oil pan stud kit.

Mondello ªVT-580 Aluminum, bolt-in valley tray for all styles of aluminum
or stock steel intake manifolds.  Fits all big block 400, 425, and 455 as
well as small block 350 engines.  Keeps intake manifold 100% cooler for
efficient performance.  Comes with mounting hardware.  Some 1972 and later
350-403 engines require mounting holes drilled and tapped.

Competition Cams ª422374 Oldsmobile camshaft.  305 degrees advertised
duration.  Single profile.  I know these are VERY vague numbers, but I
didn't have the cam card handy!  I will get the exact specs upon request.

Mondello ªHL-230 High-rev hydraulic valve lifters manufactured for Mondello
by Engle.  Set of 16.  .921 diameter to fit Diesel 350 block.

Mondello Neoprene rear main seal for 400, 425, 455 and 350 diesel
Oldsmobile engines.

Childs and Albert ªMO-4550-010 main bearings, ªRO-3500-010 rod bearings and
cam bearings.

One stock diesel crank that was magnafluxed and checked out fine.  It is
not turned and ready to have whatever machine work done to it.  This crank
will not work with the Mondello rods listed above.  Mondello sells special
425 Oldsmobile steel cranks that have been stroked.

One diesel 350 block.  It has been magnafluxed and passed.  This is the
heavier of the diesel 350 blocks.  The beauty, DX block.  The main caps
have been milled down for the main stud and strap kit above.  No other
machine work has been done and it has the stock bore.

Well fellow gearheads, there it is!  What do I want for all this?  I have
no idea!  Make me an offer and help me decide!  Feel free to e-mail me or
call at your convenience.  I apologize for the ad on this list, but I think
this stuff my be of interest to some members here.

Sincerely,

Drew Walz
DREW RACING
(219)534-9250
I

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Nov 1997 18:18:25 -0800
From: "Richard E. Hart" <rehartsr@oregontrail.net>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Conv. Top Switch

Hoagie has an excellent idea, but there is more to successfully repairing
that switch.

If such parts do not have a replacement then the repair is the only
alternative.

Even by using jewelers rouge to polish the points, they are never quite the
same as original.  Following the polishing of the contact points, one
should apply a film of silicone grease.  Never, NEVER, NEVER EVER, use a
petroleum based substitute for the silicone.  The Any hydrocarbon in the
switch will turn to carbon, increase resistance and heat resulting in
another failure.  The silicone grease is used to prevent environmental
conditions from causing corrosion and resistance (Heat) in the switch.  Use
a great deal of care and I think you will be satisfied.

Been there, best of luck, Rick

- ----------
> From: David, Terri and Rob <hoagie@emeraldis.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Conv. Top Switch
> Date: Friday, November 28, 1997 8:21 PM
>
> Greg Beaulieu wrote:
> >
> > Not a list member, so reply directly to him...
> >
> > Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
> >
> > ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> > From:   PSROACH442 <PSROACH442@aol.com>
> > Date:   Thu, 6 Nov 1997 20:03:45 EST
> > To:     oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: Power Top Switch ratings
> >
> > I have a 1969 4-4-2 with a bad convertible top switch. Does anyone know
where
> > I can get a replacement? I would also like to know the current draw for
the
> > top.
> >                             Thanks,
> >
> >                                      psroach442@aol.com
>
>
> these switches are a bear to find I can assure you of that...best thing
> to do is take the switch outta the dash and take it apart and use fine
> emery cloth and some contact cleaner and clean up the copper contacts
> inside...I did just that to my 70 SX convertible......Hoagie
>
>
> 70 SX convertible
> 71 442 W-30 convertible
> 71 442 spors coupe
> 71 Monte Carlo
> 69 Camaro RS
> 97 Camaro Z28

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Nov 1997 21:11:25 -0500
From: "W-MACHINES" <W-MACHINES@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobiles Available-'69 Toro

Also has a 442 dist. in '70.  Possibly in '69?

Kurt    W-MACHINES@prodigy.net
'65 Jetstar 1 4-speed                   '70 Toronado GT W-34 4-sale
'66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed       '92 Achieva SCX W-41
'66 442 F-85 Deluxe factory L-69  '90 Trofeo

- ----------
> From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Oldsmobiles Available-'69 Toro
> Date: Friday, November 28, 1997 2:16 PM
>
> Swapped in Eldorado trans.  Also dual exhaust isnt a definitive ID on
these
> cars either.  Only way left to check is checking the cam.
>
>
> Lisa Madsen
> Anaheim, CA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Nov 1997 22:34:03 -0500 (EST)
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: Speedometer Gear

hey, speaking of speedos, ever since i took mine up to an estimated 130 or so
miles per hour, it started making noises.  inside the dash, that is.  hmm....

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Nov 1997 23:00:18 -0500 (EST)
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: the great 442 controversy

In a message dated 97-11-28 13:35:30 EST, you write:

<< PSHENG@scuacc.scu.edu >>
<I'm no olds expert, but I was under the impression that the '70 442s were
<the fastest because that's the only year with a 10.25 to 1 compression 455.
<Are the 66 W-30's the ones with tri-power?  Is that enough to make a 400
<faster than a 455?

well, alot of olds engines had the 10.25:1 compression.  i know my 2 '67 442s
did.  course, they dont anymore, as i wanted to drive them.  i do still have
my original unmolested engine out of the blue 442.  it still has its goodies
in there.  sitting in the corner of the garage, though.  oh well....

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Nov 1997 23:03:23 -0500 (EST)
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: fastest Olds

In a message dated 97-11-28 10:02:29 EST, you write:

<< Well now!

 When we were speaking of the "Fastest" I assumed we were speaking of the
 classics of the show room type.  For example, many "youngsters" just cant
 appreciate sliding into the seat of a 67 442 and going for the ride of your
 life.  Someone can always beat the production machines with some engine and
 trany swapping, but the production machine is where it is.

 My vote is the 66 - 67 442's
  >>

i am right there with ya buddy!!!!
<~~2 '67 442s

------------------------------

Date: 28 Nov 1997 20:34:56 PST
From: mjones@gleep.com
Subject: Delta problems

Today I started my '78 Delta 88 (350R) up and it misfired on what seemed
half the cylinders.  I shut it off and restarted it.  sounded/felt like
it was only misfiring on one.  Let it warm up for a moment, then put it
into reverse to back up.  It died in the street, had a REALLY low idle.
Tried to re-start it several times until it kicked over.  Had to give it
gas to keep it alive.  Made it back into the driveway before it died
again.

This is what I know.

I am getting spark (pulled ª1 wire and grounded it with a screwdriver)
carbureator is getting fuel (looked down primaries and hit the linkage
Did a fuel pump check per the '78 manual:
       (manual states to put vacuum gauge on fuel pump inlet and
       crank/run motor.  12 in. and under is bad.  I had cranked the
       motor previously so the battery did not have a full charge on it
       when I did the test.  It varied from 5-10in.  I then put the
       vacuum gauge on the outlet didn't charger the battery up again
       got 1-2 PSI output)
I will check the fuel filter soon.
Since I am getting spark and the oil pressure gauge registers 20psi when
I crank it the timing chain is not broken, but could it have jumped?
car has 86700 orig. miles on it.  I was planning a timing component
change in the summer or when I hit 90k.

Mike Jones
'78 Delta 88
'90 Custom Cruiser (mom's car)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Nov 1997 23:29:33 -0500 (EST)
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds 445 cams

i have a question or two concerning the advanced cams.  would the car's idle
sound the same when its cam is advenced 2 degrees?  would it be be better to
get a bigger cam and advance it or a smaller cam and leave it "strait up"?  i
have a performer right now in my 455 and 350 and they are both strait up.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Nov 1997 20:35:07 -0800
From: "Richard E. Hart" <rehartsr@oregontrail.net>
Subject: Re: Delta problems

Man, a fuel pump from the neighborhood parts store is cheap compared to the
rest of the stuff.  It should not make any difference how fast your turning
the car over, if it is enough to cause it to make noise, you should have
gotten in excess of 12 in vacuum on the pump.  (you should get that almost
by hand pumping the pump).

This to will come to pass ... (It does get better).

- ----------
> From: mjones@gleep.com
> To: Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Delta problems
> Date: Friday, November 28, 1997 8:34 PM
>
> Today I started my '78 Delta 88 (350R) up and it misfired on what seemed
> half the cylinders.  I shut it off and restarted it.  sounded/felt like
> it was only misfiring on one.  Let it warm up for a moment, then put it
> into reverse to back up.  It died in the street, had a REALLY low idle.
> Tried to re-start it several times until it kicked over.  Had to give it
> gas to keep it alive.  Made it back into the driveway before it died
> again.
>
> This is what I know.
>
> I am getting spark (pulled ª1 wire and grounded it with a screwdriver)
> carbureator is getting fuel (looked down primaries and hit the linkage
> Did a fuel pump check per the '78 manual:
>        (manual states to put vacuum gauge on fuel pump inlet and
>        crank/run motor.  12 in. and under is bad.  I had cranked the
>        motor previously so the battery did not have a full charge on it
>        when I did the test.  It varied from 5-10in.  I then put the
>        vacuum gauge on the outlet didn't charger the battery up again
>        got 1-2 PSI output)
> I will check the fuel filter soon.
> Since I am getting spark and the oil pressure gauge registers 20psi when
> I crank it the timing chain is not broken, but could it have jumped?
> car has 86700 orig. miles on it.  I was planning a timing component
> change in the summer or when I hit 90k.
>
> Mike Jones
> '78 Delta 88
> '90 Custom Cruiser (mom's car)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Nov 1997 20:34:47 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobiles Available-'69 Toro

That one hasn't been mentioned - can you give me more insight?  Appreciate
anything that saves pulling the cam.


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser (twin hauler)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Nov 1997 23:31:29 -0500
From: "deirdre. reilly" <102724.635@compuserve.com>
Subject: 1969 98 conv. for parts

I received my copy of JWO today and called about one of the ads in the
Oldsified section (lead from Al Sandy), nothing panned out for me but I
said I'd help the guy by putting the word out about this car.

I was hoping to pick up a 455 from this car but he's keeping that and the
tranny.  He says everything else is for sale, body parts and interior.  As
the subject says it's a 1969 98 Convertible, red with white interior.  It's
been hit in the rear end so the bumper is no good, slight dent in trunk
lid, some rust in the rear quarters.  The rest seems to be in good shape,
straight and little to no rust.  He'd prefer to sell the whole thing in one
shot but is willing to separate.  Call Craig Schaff at (718)445-7618,
Located in Queens, New York.

I stand to gain nothing from this, just trying to be nice and help out
another Olds fan.

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme
'83 Cutlass Ciera

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Nov 1997 23:39:46 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: G-Body Interior Questions

Got things regarding the later G-Body Cutlass interior paneling:

1. When did Olds change to the lighter "Pecan" style wood grain
paneling?
  I went to a Junkyard today and scrounged a radio panel and the panel
that has the   digital clock paneling in it today, took it home, and put
it in, only to find out its   got a deeper "Walnut" type woodgrain
sticker on it...  I LOVE the deeper paneling, but   it doesn't seem to
look like Olds had a headlight panel that will work with the deeper
walnut type paneling on the 87 with the button type headlight
switch....

2. Is there a panel out there with the deeper, darker "Walnut" woodgrain
trim that will fit on the headlight switch?

3. How does the curved panel come off of the passenger side with the
tiny A/C vent working???
  I am going back this week to get both panels, and fitting the pass.
panel in, I am   thinking that I can strip the headlight sticker, and
cut it to fit the 87 with the   button style headlight housing, am I
right in the ways of the force??? <HG>

4. Is there a company out there, that makes a "sticker" that can but cut
to recover all the paneling with "Brushed Aluminum" similar to that seen
on earlier muscle cars, and late 70's Mustang II's, Firebirds, and
Camaros????
- --
                 Jerry Christopher
     ___        HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
 ___/.o \__,      1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
_=O------O=__________It ain't my father's Oldsmobile_______

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Nov 1997 23:45:02 -0500 (EST)
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Rearend measurements and door weatherstripping

ok, guys, i need to know if the rearend out of a '67 cutlass would be close
to the one which is currently in my '78 cutlass?  my '78's measurements are:
drum to drum: 53"
shock bolt to shock bolt: 48"
Inside-to-inside Lower Cont. arm mount: 41"
also, i need a new set of weatherstripping for my doors on that car.  where
can i find some???  oh, and concerning the double hum crossmember, i got one
out of a '76 cutlass.  it will one day be in my '78 with a 2004r tranny, if i
can get a decent rearend for it.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Nov 1997 23:48:00 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: Speedometer Gear

BIGJERMES@aol.com wrote:
>
> hey, speaking of speedos, ever since i took mine up to an estimated 130 or so
> miles per hour, it started making noises.  inside the dash, that is.  hmm....

After I took my 78 LeSabre up to an estimated 130-135, the speed cable
wrapped itself around the exhaust manifold, and the positive cable to
the battery from the started hooked in there too...  <G>  Not long after
the poor THM400 went out to lunch and didn't come back....  (Sigh)  Last
time I do that.
- --
                 Jerry Christopher
     ___        HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
 ___/.o \__,      1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
_=O------O=__________It ain't my father's Oldsmobile_______

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Nov 1997 00:37:15 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: ADMIN-Small suggestion-No flack please

MROTHE wrote:
>
> > Comments of a constructive nature
> > can be emailed direct to me if desired.  Other comments I can do
> > without.  Thank you for your time.
>
> Firey words should be left burning on the tongue.  No flack?  geez Don!  I
> thought the only reason that God made the other makes is so the scrap yards
> could make a living! ;^)
>
> Mike Rothe
Mike,

Too much Thanksgiving food on a old fat body has slowed my reflexes down
over the years.  Can't avoid the rotten vegetables like I used to.  :)
Therefore, I try to head off as much of the incoming airborne missiles
as possible before they get launched. :)  :)

FWIW, I'm trying my best to sell three of my Lincolns.  I need the
additional storage space.  Need to sell one of my Cutlass' also for the
same reason.  I'm starting to try to finish up something finally and
move forward.  Tired of looking at them, but would love to have a conv
ready for spring. (Lots of hopeful smiling with my wife laughing her
buns off over my shoulder.  Sure, that's what you've said for a long
time, she says.)  Speaking of conv weather, I would say you've had some
this week in Florida. (BOO HISS!!)

See ya later, Mike......

Don

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Nov 1997 01:19:15 -0500 (EST)
From: Claypol442@aol.com
Subject: Re: fastest Olds

I think the 68-70 were faster and nice but the 66 with 3 carbs. was very nice

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Nov 1997 07:49:38 -0500 (EST)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Olds Rockets and Stangs..........

In a message dated 97-11-28 08:37:50 EST, you write:

<< 1 77 Mustang II Ghia
 --  >>
hey Jerry,
King Cobra look-a-like????
 Olds and stangs......best of both worlds.......f-chevy
Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Nov 1997 07:53:23 -0500 (EST)
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: Mobil 1

In a message dated 97-11-28 11:40:38 EST, you write:

<<
 If you're going to try synthetic, flush your crankcase first...just to
 be on the safe side.
  >>
Ive got 44k trouble free miles on my 94 nissan se-v6 4x4. 1st 1k miles std
oil. Switched over to synthetic and dura-lube,  I use mobil 1.   No leaks
yet....

I plan on putting mobil 1 in my 71350/86 salon when its running....soon !!!!
Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Nov 1997 09:30:34 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: Olds Rockets and Stangs..........

RCKTPWR@aol.com wrote:

> << 1 77 Mustang II Ghia >>

> hey Jerry,
> King Cobra look-a-like????

I wish...  Ghia is like the "Salon" of Cutlasses in the Mustang II
parking lot...  It's just a regular old II....  :(
- --
                 Jerry Christopher
     ___        HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
 ___/.o \__,      1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
_=O------O=__________It ain't my father's Oldsmobile_______

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Nov 1997 09:54:14 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: 455 cid small block

Subject: Stroking an Olds?

Is this possible? I've just been doing some math and found out that if I
used an early 400 crank with 3.975 stroke that I could get 411 cid out
of my 350. And if I could use a 455 crank, I could get about 440 cid.
Would there be any point in doing this, other than I can't find an early
400 crank. Heck, I was lucky enough just to find a 1970 350 N.I. crank!

But, I'm sure all this is impossible due to some technicallity that is
beyond my knowledge. But, c'mon, sh*tvy can take a 350 and 400 and come
up with a 383.  Matt Cremean
**********************************

Matt, stick w/ the easy stuff for your first motor. Yes, it is *possible* to do
such voodoo. However, it takes a LOT of time [read: $] to do it right. First
off, the early 400 crank = 425 crank will only fit into the 350 *Diesel* small
block with them 3" mains... The larger late 400/ 455 crank might fit but with
even more mods... anyhow, the OD of the crank is too large, so the weights must
be cut down. This then requires "heavy metal" be added to the crank to balance
the ass'y. Most kinds of rods will then hit on the block, cam, etc. Mondello
says that Buick rods clear best... trouble is, they are narrower at the big
end, so the crank needs to be welded up & ground to the proper width... $$$.
OK, now you got the crank in and rods on her, the rods do not match any stock
piston, you need custom pistons... $$$$ again. I did a spreadsheet inquiry a
while back, wondering what-all could be done along those lines w/ minimal such
exotic work: the answer was "nothing exciting." 350 big block was about the
easiest- what a waste of time.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Nov 1997 09:55:54 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: $250 D88

Subject: '70 Olds 88

 Hey everybody! A guy at work has a '70 Olds 88 for sale. He's asking $250 and
- --snip--  Fred Kemp
- ------------------------------

everyone go modify your sig file right now to include a geographical clue, OK?

I'd jump on that car in a flash if nearby and the $ was handy.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Nov 1997 09:57:41 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: 68 Power front antenna

Why hasn't someone come up with a power antenna setup for 1968 442s
that originally had a manual mounted in the front passenger fender.
I dred the idea of putting a hole in the rear passenger quarter panel
in order to have a power antenna.  Chris Sparks
- ------------------------------

Have you considered adapting one from a 98 or such? If there's room in the
fender area, worst mod would be the bezel on top- making it fit the body- any
machinist could do that for dirt cheap.

- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Nov 1997 10:02:40 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: M-parts f/sale

\ul\b Mondello ªVT-580 \b0\ul0 Aluminum, bolt-in valley tray for all =
styles of aluminum or stock steel intake manifolds.  Fits all big block =
400, 425, and 455 as well as small block 350 engines.  Keeps intake =
manifold 100% cooler for efficient performance.
===============
1) man, I duno what kind of emailer you used, but I could really do w/o all
that formatting junk in the text. This antique [pine?] email handler I must use
makes a lot of gibberish out of it.

2) That must be SOME trick part to make the intake run "100% cooler"! Wow, so
the intake assumes the temperature 0 Kelvin, eh? All that time wasted by all
them scientists trying to achieve 0K, and mondello does it with a simple piece
of bent aluminum in an Olds motor!

3) if it fits big blocks and  small block 350's, why not big block 350's? :-)
If it fits 350's, it also fits other small blocks, such as the 330, though if
your SB has roller lifters I suspect the lifter plate keeper would interfere.

- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Nov 1997 11:15:03 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: ADMIN: Buying Parts via the List

I am asking one more time for the cooperation of members who are buying
parts via this list.

I think most of us don't mind some infrequent parts-for-sale listings to
be posted here. Most of us have something we need to buy or sell
occasionally. But PLEASE, folks, when you are responding to such a post,
or when you are offering to respond to someone's request for a part that
you have, send that by private email directly to the person involved and
not to all of us here on the list. We do not need to see it, nor do we
want to. Plus, it makes all of us have less unwanted email in our
in-boxes, and reduces the number of bounces I have to cope with as admin.

Most mailers allow you to either point-and-click on the person's address
or will provide a "use reply-to address?" option (which should be
answered "no" in such cases). I know some of us are new to all of this
stuff so if you need any help in doing this feel free to write me
directly at the address below.

Once again, please take as much of this sort of mail traffic to private
mail as possible. Thanks!

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Nov 1997 10:14:58 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: list tone

> The overall tone of the list (with some exceptions) seems to be " hey dummy,
> why'd you do that!" or "that's was stupid, my way is better".  I feel I'm way

dang, guess we need to be more cautious. Certainly no intent to rebuff the
info-seekers.

> under car educated to even post a question, I've been relying on the FAQ

wise man, great place to start!

> section, which is incredibly useful. If I can ever get my car to the point
> that I can brag about it, I'll join you all.

Good idea, which reminds me, now that the war has subsided, during which I
tried hard to bite my fingers...  what happened to the concept of *earning*
bragging rights? Annoying spouting is like "my car is faster than any [fill in
the slot here]" w/o any actual proof. Now, if you actually run a measured and
timed 1/4 mile, or REALLY race, in a controlled manner, a few cars that are
considered hard to beat, AND beat them... THEN fine, relate to us all the
details including what pieces helped accomplish this and how inexpensively you
did it. But claiming superiority over [fill in the blank] just because your car
"feels fast" to you is no way to win friends, earn respect, etc. [Whew, like
I'm an expert at THAT!]. Remember, the closer to the ground you ride, the
faster it feels like you are going [the go-kart phenomenon], and loud is NOT
equal to fast.
  Oh, it would also be a good idea to post on a web page a copy of any actual
time slips obtained at the real track, just in case there's any doubt.

> brag (exagerate)!! Anyway, I may still ask some questions, but I think I'll 
do
> it by private e-mails for now.   Tom Starkey

Nah, jump in, ask away, shrug off any perceptions of attitude.

>'68 Olds Cutlass Supreme (I even love saying it!)

No doubt!

- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Nov 1997 10:48:59 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: dyno making?

Check out  http://crash.ihug.co.nz/~geoff/dyno.htm   for dyno construction
=============
I'll have to do that... I found a 4000ª load cell at the scrap metal place a
while back, picked it up. It might even still work. Now, all I need is a large
power-absorber, a paddle in a water tank perhaps.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Nov 1997 11:05:10 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Ch*vy comments

=From: Benjamin Ray Cook <bc3273@cs.cs.appstate.edu>

Oh-so-cleverly opined:

=Subject: Re: Stroking an Olds?
=
=the best thing to do would be to take all that shit you are calling parts
=to a salvage yard. a 383 slowsmobile would weigh about 600lbs more than a
=383 chevy and produce around 99%less hp

...later followed by...
=Well for one thing I am tired of hearing everyone on here throw off on
=chevys. Ok maybe I was a little harsh but after all oldsmobile is a Gm
=product just as chevy.

...and...
=Hey evidently it doesn't take alot to be an ASE Master Tech./ Gm Master
=Tech. if you say I lost all my brain cells.I do own an olds, and also work
=at an olds dealer. My street driven olds runs 11.90's no bottle at Bristol
=International Dragway. Maybe that's too slow you might want to try my
=Chevy its quite a bit faster, or my Buick GN? Sorry we weren't talking
=about Buicks.

.... retorts included:
=I can't
=speak for others on this list, but that's why I joined it, because it was
=supposed to only be about OLDSES!!!   Ain't it cool?   Mike Rothe
==========================================
"all that shit you are calling parts to a salvage yard. a 383 slowsmobile"
indeed. Greg, excuse this joker from the list, please. He cannot seem to
understand the concept of trimming the included text in the replies either, and
this thread stands to get very big very fast unless you clamp down on it.

Geez, he'd fail even the Chris Witt Remedial Charm School. :-)

This list is for Olds promotion and info sharing and fallacy dispersion. Take
yer Ch*vy-loving Olds-bashing self right on down the road to the local list
devoted to that please.

One reason we Olds nuts so jealously guard the Olds-favorable territory here is
that EVERY other forum in the world [parts store, parts catalog, ANY magazine
except JWO et.al] is the same boring litany of Ch*vy crap. "Tips" like
replacing those weak rod bolts.... with ones that look exactly like the one
OLDS come with stock. Like getting 1.6 ratio rockers... which all Olds have,
stock! etc. etc. etc.
   Sorry, but Olds is NOT "just another GM product just like Ch*vy" A million
details like the two above make a marked difference. The Blowties have always
been the economy, miser, poor-man's GM, and corners were cut at every turn. Can
you say "press-in rocker studs?" Clever idea, eh? Ooops, they come right out!

So, at least you can provide us with copies of these 11.90 time slips, right?
Just so's there's no doubt. :-) 'cause, no one *else* has ever come on here &
lied up a tall tale of performance like a 400 HP 307...

At least you wised up & put an Olds mill in the Ch*vy! Must be, to be "quite a
bit faster than" your 11.90 Olds. *snort*

- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Nov 1997 11:09:27 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: EGR fallacy to rest

Fallacy about EGR:

exhaust gases, and these spent gases are used to dilute the fresh
air/fuel mixture in the cylinders.  Hence this will reduce emissions,
but it draws away from the max output of the engine.  With the EGR gone,
the engine is always drawing in a fresh air/fuel mixture....and presto;
more vroom-vroom.
=================
This is a common misperception. The EGR valve runs on vacuum. Typically, ported
vacuum. At idle, none available because it's "ported." Thus, no EGR. At cruise,
"some" EGR due to "some" vacuum available. At WOT, vacuum signal is near-zero.
Not enough to open the EGR valve, thus NO EGR.

Any performance changes due to EGR at WOT would be due to restrictions in the
intake to make room for the EGR ports, etc.

Hope this lays that to rest. All this is in the Olds Service Manaul and any
other manual worth its salt. We engineers *do* sometimes :-) read them things.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Nov 1997 11:14:42 -0500
From: "DAVID  BETZ" <dbetz@netwalk.com>
Subject: Re: Gold - True color?

In short, Steven Saraceno wrote:

> Well I have yet to find my build sheet, but poking around the car I have
> found spots of what I believe was the original color of my 70 Azure Blue
> 442 - Gold.

Does anyone out there own a gold car with White top and
> interior.  I've seen a 66 chevelle like that and it looked great.
>
>
> Steven Saraceno
> 70 442 conv

Steven,

I have a 1972 Delta 88 Royale Convertible with factory Sebring Gold
exterior, with a white interior and white top.  I think the gold and white
go very well together.

David Betz
dbetz@netwalk.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Nov 1997 11:13:30 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: 55, later trans

I really enjoy reading the commentary on the mail list, but now I have a
question about a trans transplant.  I have a '55 Olds Super 88 324 with
an auto trans.  Will any newer model auto trans bolt on or is there a
company that can make an adapter so that I can use a more modern auto
trans with this engine?  Also, I can't get the distributor out of the
engine.  To adjust the timing, I have to use both hands and a great
effort just to move it a tiny bit.  How do you extract the distributor
without damage (yes, I did remove the hold down bolt). Thanks for any
info.
=================
Yeesh, good luck. That engine series used a bellhouse integral to the motor
block. Anything CAN be done, but at what hassle, co$t?

Often, the oil pump drive rod becomes wedged in the bottom of the dist'r gear
on the Olds later motors. Assuming design is similar... I have had success in
prying the dist shaft upwards, lightly, then delivering a sharp blow carefully
right in the center of the dist shaft and in line with it. Careful not to
damage the weights, etc. Another idea might be to tap the dist'r shaft such
that it tends to rotate opposite of the normal direction, that might jar loose
the rod.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Nov 1997 11:14:43 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: stroker?

dont know about the rest of ya, but, i go out to the garage at least once a
week and stroke my olds's.  Chris Matthes
====================

That's too funny!
A whole new meaning to "polishing one's Rocket!"

- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Nov 1997 11:34:33 -0800
From: "David, Terri and Rob" <hoagie@emeraldis.com>
Subject: Re: 72 cutlass exhaust tips

Jim & Joanne Chermack wrote:
>
> At 05:36 PM 11/11/97 -0700, you wrote:
>         Cutlass Supremes did not have the availabilty of any Exhaust tips.
> The Hurst/Olds and the 442 had them only. The 72 Cutlass Supreme had plain
> turned down pipe.
>
> Jim Chermack
> C&M Classic Parts
>
> >what are the correct exhaust tips for a '72 cutlass supreme and where can
> >I get them?
> >beg to differ Jim......ummmm...1 Cutlass Supreme came with tips....the
SX...at least every 1 I have I seen has...and i have 1 in the garage for
a reference....just a lil FYI....Hoagie

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Nov 1997 11:42:05 -0800
From: "David, Terri and Rob" <hoagie@emeraldis.com>
Subject: Re: Brakes :(

Jim & Joanne Chermack wrote:
>
> At 09:01 PM 11/11/97 -0500, you wrote:
> Pat
>
>         Find a Autozone and purchase the parts yourself and save $600. The
> whole works should cost you no more than $150 for the parts. Their master
> cylinders are under $30 and the wheel cylinders are $20-24 ea. and the brake
> shoes are like $12.99. So it might be just slightly more than $150. It's an
> easy job to redo the brake system.
>
> Jim Chermack
>
> >       I took my car to Mineke today. They said that the brakes hadn't
> >been serviced in a while and it would cost $750 (after a $50 discount).
> >The car needs new everything, it seems. I guess that's what I get for only
> >paying $600 for it, but I love the car and I was planning to restore it.
> >Is there any way I could lower the price? I don't have that kind of money.
> >I really have enjoyed being on the list and chatting with you guys, but it
> >looks like my restoration is going to come to a halt pretty fast. I'm
> >trying to find friends in the business to help lower the price but it
> >looks like the Cutlass is going to be parked for a while. If anyone knows
> >anyone near the Chapel Hill/Durham area they would recommend, let me know.
> >Thanks for all your advice and wonderful help. I'm going to put the new
> >stereo speaker in anyway, though. Heck, that's important, too.
> >
> >
> >Pat
> >Chapel Hill, NC
> >prose@email.unc.edu
> >'68 Cutlass S (sick)
> >

good advice Jim...600 is a lil steep for this job considering the total
cost of parts....1 piece of advice take both drums off whether it be
front or rear and leave 1 side assembled for a reference as to how the
springs and various adjusters are to be assembled back....and when you
adjust up the shoes just let tem drag slightly....too much tension on
the shoes will cause them to overheat and glaze......Hoagie


1970 Cutlass SX convertible
1971 442 W-30 convertible
1971 442 Sports Coupe
1971 Monte Carlo
1969 Camaro RS
1997 Camaro Z-28

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª978
********************************
